Associated RC10B3 Forum v1.0

[Killer87]

This is the only place where guys can talk as long as women can.

Let's talk B3!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[speedydave]

lol

[Killer87]

Helloooooooooooo is any body here? :confused:

[Elliott Hopkins]

I'm Listening!

I don't think Proline's latest body (the Deja-Vu 2) is any good! I prefered the car when it looked less sleek and featureless and more square. It also used to have side windows which were huge. The old body was cool!

I bought a B2.5 (a B2 with a couple of B3 bits) off of eBay a couple of weeks ago and it's brilliant! It took a bit of time to get used to the harsh (relative to a HPI RS4MT) steering. I'm quite pleased about my purchase.

I was curious to know about it's body though. The body I have is in the old B2 shape, it looks identical to the Mirage SS body (from Associated) except the the polycarbonate over the rear shock tower is flat and the air scoop on the right hand side from the front, is wide and flat like a sausage. I think its a Proline. I would like to buy the body again because it looks better than the Deja Vu 2. Does anyone know what it is?

Thanks.

At least we don't have the weird Phobos shell that the XXX has! It reminds me of an old Kyosho car (I've forgotten the name of it!).

I'll check in again on the 23rd because I'm on holiday!


RC10 OWNERS UNITE!!


Elliott.
England.

[B3 Boy]

i have a ft b3 but i am also looking for a new body for my origional rc10 doas anny boudy know of anny

[Dr.Bad]

Has anyone tried out the Reedy MVP Stock Motor in a B3? I've heard the P2K is faster on longer tracks, but I race on a tight, rough track with lots of jumps. Any input?

Its kinda funny, I won my first main using 1400SCR cells, and an ancient Trinity Midnight. Everyone else was running 3000's and P2K's.......it doesn't help that I was the ONLY Associated......we rule!!!!! :D

[Killer87]

Elliott

About the B2 body I have no idea. Seems like you got a good car to me. How much did you get it for?

About the MVP motor. No, I haven't tried it yet.

Thanks :)

[rcguy49]

the p2k will be a much better motor on a tighter track.and personaly i think it rocks because i placed 4th in the "a main" and it was my very first rc and my very first time out racing.i would definatly go with the p2k on a tight track because it has tons of torqe,and it has awesome acceleration.the mvp is more of an all around motor and will have a bit more top end but a bit less acceleration.

rcguy49 :D

[derekjr_1]

I agree that the p2k is good for a tight track. I run a p2k in my b3 and it runs really well and very fast on the straight. Just remember gearing! Lower for more accel and higher for top speed. I cant say nothing about the MVP yet for tight or fast tracks cause i dont have mine yet. I am going to pick one up soon and see which one I like more. Then I will comment about the MVP. Alot of locals here use the MVP in their trucks, but I havn't seen many in the buggies.

Anyone need help or have help to give about the B3 post it! Let's get this thread going. Ideas, comments, everything related POST IT!

-Derek "Krumbles"- :cool:

[Dr.Bad]

I'll give the P2K a shot on my track next time I race. Now here's another question for the guru's out there.

I race mostly stock class. I like stock, and will be sticking with it for a long time. I was thinking about upgrading from my 1700's. What would be better for stock racing with the B3, 2400's or 3000's? Also, has anyone tried the HPI 2-speed conversion for the B3?

One more thing, has anyone had any luck with the MIP LightDrives? I got them, and one of the outdrives broke on the second pack with a STOCK motor. The second one lasted a bit longer, but snapped while rebuilding the diff. Has anyone had the same luck with these? Maybe HG makes a stronger version?

Thanks guys, and keep spankin' those Losi's!!

[derekjr_1]

Dude for stock you dont need the runtime as much so I would defineteyl stick with the 2400's. If you do go 3000 get the smh ones (newest out).. Remeber there is different maintence to the 3000's then there is to the 2400's. I use 2400's and have no problem and I think that is what most racers use for STOCK class.

No clue about the MIP lightdrives. I dont use those..

[derekjr_1]

Dr. Bad > You got a link to that H.P.I 2 speed conversion thing you are talking about?

[Killer87]

I know about the HPI 2-speed but I don't have one and I don't know about a website for it.

[Elliott Hopkins]

Hello,

I'm back from my holiday. I have to say I'm really impressed with my new 'B2.5'. I bought it for £80 second hand. It's a blast, my RS4MT hasn't had a run in months! I'm going to try and race it before the summer ends.

And now for some juicy bits, I'm running an ancient 13x2 motor through an LRP IPC V6, powered by Team Orion 2000mAh cells and controlled by a Hi-Tec Gem/Shredder mini receiver and directed by a HT 605BB servo.

I get the feeling that Stock class is bigger in America than it is in the U.K..

I'm waffling, I had a bunch of questions which I was going to ask, but I have forgotten them.

Elliott.
Berkshire, England.

[Dr.Bad]

You don't know about the 2-speed tranny? Check this link out at TowerHobbies.com
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXN281&P=7

It says it will fit the B2, so I assume it will also fit the B3. This may be illegal to use at some tracks, but if you could use it, it would be perfect for stock class!!!

[derekjr_1]

Hmmm, Dont know what to think yet but it is interesting. I am going to look for some more info on this. Don't know how this would be good for OFF-ROAD. It says that is only for onroad???

[Dr.Bad]

I think they say its only for on-road because you must remove the slipper clutch to use the tranny. If there were only another way to dampen to shock of the drive train.....

If this could be modified to accept a slipper, stock class off-road racing would become rather interesting with these!!!

[atm92484]

Actually it says for on-road use only because if you get air with a 2-speed, more than likely it will shift into second even if you are only going at the speed of first gear. Then when you land it puts a tremendous shock on the tranny. Since there is no slipper the tranny absorbs it all and can be damaged.

[Killer87]

It would be cool to go off a jump with a 2-speed and a modified :eek: but I think atm92484 is right about destroying your tranny.

I would like to know if anyone has tried putting more than 6 or 7 cells in their B3 or B2.

Elliott, about the B2.5 did it come with electronics or anything because 80 puonds ($120) is a little steep for a used rolling chassis. :eek:

[derekjr_1]

Yeah I dont think the 2 speed would be very effeciant because it is to easy to break when going off a jump and landing. I guess if you wanted to just mess around on your street or something then it would rock with a mod motor.

If it could handle the slipper someway then it might work, but that would be a whole new product!

[Elliott Hopkins]

Killer 87,

Overpriced? O.K. I was supposed to get a box of wheels and tyres and assorted spares, but the guy screwed me out of them.

I think £80 is a reasonable price here in the U.K. unfortunately, because prices in general are so high, we a willing to pay the extra for a good 2nd hand car. My car was obviously raced pretty well, but it was in good running order.

Elliott.

[Killer87]

Through TowwerHobbies or another ditributor in US you can buy a new B3 for 80 pounds!!!

[derekjr_1]

What do you guys run for block carriers? Stock 30 degree, or optional 25 degree. It seems the pros (setup sheets say) use 25 degree more then the 30 degree stock ones. I just switched to 25 for more steering exiting the turn rather than more steering going into and seems to work better for my local track.

[SteveP]

^^^

[Obi112]

Steve,
I'd like to keep this thread. One of the others has more posts, but it's entitled "Factory Team B3" forum, so I don't want to discourage anyone with a regular B3.

[Obi112]

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

Amazed. Confused. Shocked. Those are the feelings that came to me after I noticed that one of the best selling kits of all time does not have it's own topic. Then Steve set me straight and showed me that there were 3 topics, but they all had feel to RCCA hell. It's time to bring it back.

I am truly amazed that this kit cannot sustain a thriving thread, when the GT (more popular, but not too much so), can practically crash the boards due to the number of posts. There are even some less popular kits that have a huge following. So let's get this topic flowing again:

Did anyone see the chrome wheels on some guys B3 in the latest RCCA magazine. I think it said they were RPM wheels, but I checked they're website and they don't have any for the B3.

Also, is anyone annoyed at the lack of hopups for the B3? I really don't need anything, but it's cool to have neat looking stuff. It seems the only companies manufacturing parts for the B3 (besides Associated) are Hammund Ghumann (sp?) and Racer's Edge.

[Elliott Hopkins]

RPM make a bunch of stuff. In fact one of my next purchases will be front and rear bumpers because of a few too many crashes.

A couple of weeks ago I managed to jump a skip with my B2.5. It's a bit knackered from the experience.

Does anyone have pictures of Proline's shells for the B2, I think they made the shell I was talking about previously.

I'd like to see a pic of the B3 with the chrome wheels.

If you put a Rally shell on a B3 you'd have a right little monster. I've been playing Gran Tourismo 2 a lot, racing my RS200 that would be an ideal body.

Some random thoughts there. I can't believe there are so few B2/3 racers.

Elliott.
England.

[ 09-18-2001: Message edited by: Elliott Hopkins ]

[Obi112]

FTGT: At least wait until the Worlds are over. If a B4 is in the works, it will probably be tested there. Otherwise, a B4 may still be a year away.

Elliot: I have a lot of RPM stuff on my B3. It works better and looks better, but I really wouldn't consider them hop-ups. As for the B2 body, the best place to look would be Associated website. I think I remember seeing older bodies being sold there.

If I get a chance, I'll try to scan the pic of the chrome weels. And how can you put a Rally body on a B3? The only way I can think of is buying the T3 body mounts, but then you'll practically have a truck, not a buggy.

[RichieRich]

About the 2-speed. I had one of those and it was pretty much a wasted purchase. I bought it for my old RC10 team car. You can't use it offroad, there's no gear cover to protect the gears, no slipper clutch and the shifting depends a lot on how much charge is left in your pack. Plus, the two rotating gears had tons of run-out (wobble). I sold it on ebay for $45.

[FTGT Racer]

I have a B3 I love the little bugger, but it got hit by a car at a race a while back, someone with my frequincy turned on their radio and away it went. only thing that survived is the chassis, rear and front skids, and battery hold down. So I think i'll just get a new B3, or should I wait for a B4?? Ok i'm gonna run my GT now. Cya's

[Elliott Hopkins]

Back in the early 90's when I had my classic Tamiya Lunchbox. It was very popular to modify 2wd & 4wd buggies with saloon body mount kits that attached to the rear shock tower and front bumper, through some fiddling. It was possible to have the gearbox of a 2wd car to just touch the rear window of your saloon body of choice. But nowadays of course the chassis are widened 4wd touring cars.

When are the worlds? I can't wait for the B4. Like I may have said before I don't like the sleek Deja-vu bodyshells. I prefer the boxier type before the B3.

Elliott.

[ 09-19-2001: Message edited by: Elliott Hopkins ]

[Killer87]

Has anyone been to the Associated factory before???
I can't belive how small it is.
They get another company to make the parts and then they package them.
I would like to get those company's names. Talk about cheap parts!!!
:p

[Obi112]

Elliott: The Worlds are in October. But, since Associated pulled out of the Worlds due to the recent events, they obviously will not be showcasing a new car there. If other companies follow them, the IFMAR may be forced to postpone the event, giving us another chance to (possibly) see a B4.

Killer: I never knew Associated didn't make there own parts. Are you sure about this? They may own another factory that specifically makes parts and stuff. If what you say is true, it would be cool to find out the names of the companies. But they definitely have some type of contract with Associated that prevents them from selling the stuff to anyone else.

[Obi112]

^^^

[Obi112]

Where are all the B3 guys?

[Obi112]

ttt again...

[dynozone84]

hey guys if i buy a factory team B3 what spare parts should i have with me when i go to the track on race day?

[SparkyT3]

Hello guys! I need some B3 Info. I would like to run in the Buggy class at my local track and am wondering how the B3 fairs. It does not sound by this page like most of you race you B3's? some one I know is selling one but I do not know if I should get it or not. Talk me into it would you?

[brknwheel]

SparkyT3... I been racing the B3 for almost 3 years now. The car works for me. I have only broken once racing when I flipped upside down on the straight running mod, and another car hit me. Can't complain about that cause I was the bonehead driving. One thing I will not do is tell you the B3 is, or is not, better that XXX. The truth is, both cars work. They handle different, but the suspentions are adjustable, so you can make either car work on any track. Don't let anyone try and tell you the car makes the difference (between these two choises), it's the driver that makes the difference.

[Obi112]

dyno: If your track has a hobby shop on site (like mine does), you won't have to bring any spare parts, because they'll stock the commonly broken ones. If I had to give you a few suggestions, they would be:

1. A-arms: The front ones are commonly broken due to hitting pipes, nosediving into the ground, ramming other cars, etc. I haven't broken any of these (at the track, that is).
2. Nuts: Make sure you have spare wheel nuts because, if you get lazy and forget to tighten them in between heats, they will come off and, most likely, you'll never find them (not to mention that you'll be knocked out of the heat).
3. Servo gears: Make sure you have a spare gearset for your servo (or a spare servo). In off-road, it's common to strip servos with plastic gears, and can be a real pain.

Those are the two common sense ones that you should bring. As you might expect, pretty much every part can be broken, but no one can cover for every circumstance. So, as much as you'll hate it, there will be days when you'll break a part in the first heat and unable to get a replacement, therefore ending your day prematurely.

[Obi112]

SparkyT3: The B3 is an excellent, durable car for racing. Some people will tell you that the XXX is better, some will say the B3 is king, but, as brknwheel stated, both work. You said you know someone who is selling one. If it is a good deal, by all means, go for it. You won't regret it!

[Obi112]

ttt

I am close to giving up on this thread. So if any B3 guys are reading this, just post something. A question, an opinion, or anything else. Just let me know your out there and actually seeing that there is a B3 thread.

[SparkyT3]

So what is a some what abused B3 worth the chassie is intackted the streering linkage is gone the servo save is missing and the Tranny runs like a champ! It has wheels although it needs new rubber. So how much you guys tell me. Anybody want to sell one?

[brknwheel]

A B3 with steering parts missing isn't worth a whole lot. And it would depend if the diff needs rebuilding, the arms and other suspension parts or bearings have slop in them or not. What I'm trying to say is that if you have to buy a lot of new parts to replace stuff that's worn out, it won't be worth the money. Parts are expensive and you get all new parts with a new car. Don't worry so much about worn tires. I go through a bunch of them. But that's the thing with racing, you need good tires with the foam just so, or you don't do well.

[Obi112]

If the chassis is in fairly good condition, then a good price would probably be around $50-75. Since the tranny "runs like a champ," the car has been taking care of (or at least the owner is knowledgeable about cars). The whole steering linkage/servo saver setup shouldn't run you more than $25. So, if you can get it for $50, get it. Any more expensive, then you'll have to run through the list of parts needed and see if you can afford it.

[RichieRich]

Hey! I see the B3 thread. Don't close it! So, here's an observation: When I assembled my B3, I was a few foam ball cup thingies short. Here's another one: Do you like the Lunsford or the AE factory team titanium turnbuckle set?

[T3_Racer]

NoOoOoO!

Fear no more fellow B3'ers! I just noticced this thread and have come to save it (rite). Ok I have a question for Obi (he seems like the only one that regularly visits this thread). My question is as follows: How do I figure out when to change my camber, toe-in/out, caster, ect. (I pretty much need some tuning tips.) Alright Obi, you have seen my track so you are the most knowledgeble one here at this time. What do I need to do to my set-up, ive balenced my car the best I can and run a 1/4th oz weight in the front bulkhead, now I need to figure out when to play around with toe-in/out, ect. My problems are that I have a very bad traction and need more steering. Plz help me out, (on this limited info, i kno) it would be greatly appreciated.

[losi]

I am thinking about Factory Team RC10B3. I am also thinking of getting the kinwald. Can u guys tell me why the Factory Team RC10B3 would be better or is it better. Which ever one i get I would like to get a 12t modified motor so i need one that can handle those speeds. Thanx:confused:

[T3_Racer]

Yello,
It seems by your name that you're more accustomed to Losi vehicles, if youv'e ever driven Associated and Losi counterparts you would know which one you like better, they both have 2 very unique handling characteristics. If it was up to me I would say "Associated all the way!" but it's not so here's my suggestion: Drive both (with identical setups if possible) and see which you like better, dont let anyone tell you one is better b/c they are both of equal caliber. If you're a basher I say go for Associated, they are very durable. To answer your Team vs. Factory Team question I say get the factory team. Both configurations will easily handle any mod but the Factory team has all those cool looking blue parts and is (IMO) much more durable. You'll prolly want to upgrade to Fact. Team later if you get the team anyway.

Hope this Helps :D

[RC10 GuyAZ]

Hey guys! I was wondering what modified motor you would suggest for the b3? I run on the track at Scottsdale R/C Speedway, home of the cactus classic. I'm not sure if you've seen it but its in one of the RCCA's. I'm just wondering because i'm thinking about jumping into modified buggy in a few weeks. I was thinking that the new reedy TImods would be good, but someone told me that they were just for touring cars? BTW I run an MVP in my buggy and it works great. It has a tremendous amount of torque and RPM. It gets me over a huge tripple easily with a small take off straight! It doesn't have quite the rpm that my P2K does, but it works better on my track. Thanks guys!
Patrick:D

[T3_Racer]

Well, the Ti Element line are some very nice motors, I personally dont know too much about them but I have heard alot of praise about them. I beileive they come in 2 winds only, single and double right now (prolly more later on). I would think, judging by your track that the single would be more suited to you if you like the MVP on you're track, but that is always open for debate. Someone said awhile back that it is MUCH eisier to make torque into RPM and singles are generally more "torquey" than doubles. I would personally recommend the Fantom line of motors, they plain kick-a** (bonus-their based in Michigan!:D ). It is up to you tho, ask some more people for their opinion for, I am just a peice of dust in the whole scheme of things.:D

[Obi112]

Wow! This is more like it. Thanks for coming and posting. Just be sure to come back semi-regularly. It's pretty easy to forget about the ol' Vehicles forum.


RichieRich: Great observation! The same thing happened to me, actually. I thought that I had put a few "foamies" in the wrong spots, but I guess not since you had the same problem. I ended up having to pay $1 or so for a 24 (during another Tower order). As for the TI turnbuckles, I haven't upgraded yet (:eek: ). There are two reason, actually: 1. I'm cheap, and 2. I haven't had a need to yet (I usually only upgrade parts after they've broken). But, when I do buy a set, I'll be going for Lunsford.
Don't get me wrong, I'm all for Associated (in fact, there is a lot of blue on my car -- it isn't even FT), but I just love the look of the silver turnbuckles. Plus, that wrench they give you is pretty schweet :D

[Obi112]

T3: Well, to answer your first question, I'm going to hand it off to Associated. Flip to the back part of your manual. There's an entire section devoted to tuning! It'll tell you what more toe-in does, less camber, etc. Read that over, and you'll have a pretty good idea of what to do when your tinkering. As to when you should change it, I think you can answer that. Whenever you feel that your car can handle better than it actually is (sometimes, however, it can't handle any better -- but that's extremely rare :D ). And if your not sure if it can handle better, experiment! Remove a few degrees of toe-in and see what happens.

As to your specific problem (need more traction and steering): Wow, you need both traction and steering! Usually, you'll have one, and have to sacrifice some of it to get the other. If your traction is as bad as you say it is, then it must be (partly) a tire problem. From the picture, it looks like the track is loose and loamy. In that case, you'll probably need to run Bow Ties or Step Pins, M2 compound (see what everyone else is running). After you switch to the best tire, then you can work on steering.

For steering, first make sure you are using the A-Team's standard setup. For your convenience, I will type it up (from the January 1999 issue of RCCA) in the next post. Also, in the post after that, I will reprint a sidebar (also from the Jan '99 issue) that deals with what to change for more steering or rear bite.


SteveP or another admin: I hope it's ok to post this material...

[Obi112]

Front End

Shocks
--mounting position
(upper/lower): outside/inside
--oil: 35WT
--springs: green
--pistons: no. 1
Weight Added : 1/4 oz (inside the front bulkhead)
Inside limiters: : 1 thin (0.30 in)
Kingpin position : middle (one spacer on top, one on bottom)
Caster : 25 degrees
Toe in/out : none
Camber : 1 1/2 degrees negative
Camber-link position : outer hole
Ride height : A-arms slightly above level


Rear End

Shocks
--mounting position
(upper/lower): middle/outer
--oil: 30WT
--springs: Silver
--pistons: no. 1
Inside limiters: : none
Arm mount : 3 degrees toe-in
Anti-squat : stock
Hub carrier position : forward (both spacers installed on the rear of the hub carrier)
Camber-link position (shock tower and hub carrier) : inside
Ride height : CVD's level


Battery position : middle

[Obi112]

Need More Steering?
1. Check the servo-saver spring; is it too loose?
2. Raise the rear ride height approximately 0.30 inches.
3. Shorten the rear camber links to increase rear camber.
4. Change the upper shock-mounting position to the middle hole.
5. Move the kingpin upward by installing washers beneath the pivot-ball end, one washer at a time.
6. Add a 0.30-inch inside limiter to the front shocks.
7. Move the battery forward.
8. Move the hub carrier backward, one spacer at a time.
9. Use stiffer rear tires (M2 compound instead of M3s).
10. Loosen the rear diff slightly (but not so much that it slips).

Need More Rear and Side Bite?
1. Lengthen the rear camber link to decrease camber.
2. Remove the weight (1/4 ounce) from the front bulkhead.
3. Increase the anti-squat by adding an aluminum washer to the front of the rear arm mounts.
4. Use a larger - 87 tooth - spur gear (a larger spur gear moves the motor toward the rear). Don't forget to change your pinion to compensate for the larger gear.
5. Move the battery toward the rear.
6. Use 1.32-inch rear shafts with two, 0.60-inch inside limiters.

[RichieRich]

Obi112: HA! I knew I wasn't crazy! I had to buy another set of foamies too. I bought the Lunsford turnbuckles because I like the glimmering stuff.

Funny story: (well, it's not really very funny :) ) Anyways, while I upgraded my B3 with the Lunsford turnbuckles, I decided to upgrade my old Team Car also. I had still had the stock turnbuckles and two were severely bent. So, as I replaced each turnbuckle, I found out that every single one was seriously tweeked. I've been running with bent turnbuckles for years! So, the moral of the story is: CHECK those turnbuckles! :D

[RC10 GuyAZ]

Hey guys! I think that associated is getting cheap on us!! I was missing a few foamies too! As for that traction problem, I could just be the tires. Look at what the fast guys run, then get some of them! Steering can be helped by running the battery in the middle, or adding a 1/4 ounce weight inside the front bulkhead. Good luck! :D :cool: :D

[Obi112]

Hmmm... Looks like there is some great Foamie conspiracy...

RichieRich: Did you get the Lunsford turnbuckle wrench with it? I know it comes with the turnbuckle/hingepin combo, but wasn't sure if it came with the turnbuckles only.

[Gutter Ball]

For traction, don't forget about your slipper clutch!!!! I was having crazy problems with another car(won't mention Losi) and I was going nuts!! I put lower weight oil, softer springs, new tires, and tried moving the battery back. Nothing worked! Then someone told me to loosen the slipper and well, that solved everything :)

[T3_Racer]

No, the turnbuckle only kit dosnt come with a wrench.:(

[RC10 GuyAZ]

I love my B3!!!! It helped my get first in stock buggy at Western Worlds in Arizona! A C2, MVP, and a KMR 2400 also helped me win it .KMR (http://www.kmrbatteries.com) I had soo much torque and acceleration with this battery, it was great! Got me over jumps that were right after turns. It was great.:D :D :D :D :D :D

[RichieRich]

Obi112 - No I didn't get the wrench with my set. I ordered from Tower. Although, I swear I saw as B3 set with a wrench at HobbyTown USA (It may have had the hinge pins too). They do sell the wrench separately so I picked one up. I think it was $3 or $4.

[Obi112]

Ok, cool. When I finally buy the Lunsford 'buckles, I'll probably buy the wrench along with them. I would buy the combo, but I don't see a need for titanium hinge pins...

[T3_Racer]

Yea really, who here has broken/bent a regualr steel hinge pin?

[RichieRich]

I've never bent/broken a regular steel hinge pin. I have bent hinge screws like the ones on the Nitro RS4. Yeah, I don't see a need for titanium hinge pins. Although, titanium hinge screws may be a better idea for cars that use them.

I have bent steel turnbuckles but I think everyone has done that. My brother completely sheared a B3 steel turnbuckle in half. Has anyone done that? It looked as if it snapped like a toothpick.

[Obi112]

Woah... in half?

I haven't broken one yet (that's why I haven't upgraded to titanium). It'll happen someday though, most likely during the A-main.

Though I may not wait until one breaks, because the center is already starting to rust (where the paint stripped off after I used pliers to adjust them) and I hate how I can bend them slightly by pushing down on them.

[brknwheel]

I've been racing associated cars since 1986. I have bent a few hinge pins over the years. They can bend when you hit something hard and break an arm off at the inner hinge pin. When the front part of the arm breaks away at the pin and the leverage of the arm bending back will sometimes bend the pin towards the rear of the car. It's been a long time since I've seen it happen, but I have. I always run titanium pins now. Less wieght in the suspension makes for a better handling car. I'd say it was at least ten years ago since I had a bent pin on a car.

[adam lancia]

does anyone know what the part number for the b3 front suspension brace is? also, what does it look like? i heard about guys using it on their xx4's, how does that work?

thanks,

adam
canada:D :) :cool:

[brknwheel]

I think you're talking about P/N 9120 which is a piece of aluminum with two holes in it that braces the front inner hinge pins.

[adam lancia]

hey brknwheel,

thanks for the info, i just wasn't clear on what everyone was talking about.

L8R,
adam

[Obi112]

ttt :(

[Obi112]

Hmmmm... what happened? This forum was doing awesome at the beginning of October, but it seems to have fallen apart. Is anyone even reading this? If you are, just post something. I don't want to keep bringing this back up if no one reads it (I know how easy it is to skip the Vehicles forum... I've done it plenty of times).

[chance]

Hi all, I have a few questions. I noticed that the cvd axle just barely stays engaged in the diff halves when the suspension is at full droop. With the stock steel diff parts it holds up ok, but how do the aluminum aftermarket ones hold up? And how long before they start to develop notches where the pins drive? But most importantly, can you really notice any difference in the car with the lighter stuff?
Oh yeah, add one more to the b3 forum. I raced a borrowed b3 team car a few times last season, guess I'll have to buy one this season.
Thanks

[Obi112]

Yep, the CVD is too short for my comfort. It's popped out a few times during racing (due to the arms being so low and the outdrives worn down). I have not tried the alumnium parts yet, but I would think they would wear more quickly. If you try them, perhaps making a little pin cushion to put between the outdrive and the pin would be a good idea.

Welcome to the forum. And yes, you should buy a B3. If you don't want one new, I know there are a few for sale in the Buy/Sell/Trade forum.

[RC10 GuyAZ]

I believe that BRP make pin cushions for the B3. Those will save you some $$!!!

Patrick :cool:

[chance]

I ordered a new FT B3 today, I only buy used if I can inspect the item first.
Do you know if the RRP aluminum outdrives are the same length as the stock AE items?
I guess I'll run a short internal spacer to help save the outdrives.

[Obi112]

BRP? Never heard of them. I bought pin cushions made by Irrgang, but you have to hammer out the pin at the end of the dogbone, then insert a new one that's a bit softer. I didn't bother to use them, because it wasn't what I was looking for. I wanted to have something that slipped over the dogbone to make a tight fit in the outdrive (I think the X-Ray T1 has something like that).

Chance, congratulations on your purchase. I'm not sure about the length, but I would guess they are the same length.

[tk20fan]

Just finished my new b3 today....after being out of the sport for a while I cant believe the changes. The car seems awsome and I cant wait to hit the track!!!

[Obi112]

Awesome! Be sure to keep us updated on what's going on. And if you have any questions, you know where to go : )

[Obi112]

boing

[chance]

I thought I would throw a set of RPM heavy duty ball cups on my B3 kit. I noticed that the front tie rod hits the camber rod ball cup at the shock tower.
Is there an easy way to save this with out going back to the stock AE part?
Thanks

[Obi112]

I haven't noticed that problem, but the only way I can think of to keep your setup is to file away material where the parts are hitting, so that there is enough clearance. Just don't take so much off that the part weakens.

[chance]

The 25 degree caster blocks are the problem, I changed back to the stock 30 degree carriers and it clears.
I would have had to cut too much off the ball cup for them to clear. Even with the stock AE cups, the tie rod binds with the 25 degree carriers.
I had wanted to use the "loose track setup" from the AE site but, I don't see how the 25 degree carriers can be used without binding.
I could dail out some steering throw with the end point adjust on my radio but, the track I run is a tight indoor track.

[Obi112]

Hmmm... If you added the 25 degree blocks and didn't change much else, that has got to be a part problem (or a huge design problem that they somehow did not notice). I would definitely talk to Associated about that one.

[chance]

This buggy thread sure don't see much use. I don't surf many sites, anyone know a place that has a active buggy thread?

[Obi112]

I know...

We actually had it going good for a week or so, but I don't know what happened. I'm still going to try and keep this alive, though, because there are plenty of B3 owners out there.

[atm92484_3]

I'm considering getting a B3 to bash with this winter. Any thoughts on this?

[RC10 GuyAZ]

If your just looking to bash around, I'd suggest getting the T3 or mabie even an E-maxx. The B3 isn't really that great for screwing around since the suspension is shorter and the tires are smaller.

Chance: I would really suggest going with the stock setup before you make any changes. I did the same thing with my tc3 and I didn't know if what I had was a good setup, or a bad setup. Dont make the same mistake that I did.

Patrick :cool:

[Obi112]

I disagree with RC10. The B3 is a great car to bash with. However, you really need to consider what you will do in the future. If there is a track nearby, go and see what other people are running (even though you say you are going to bash, inevitably you'll want to race).

[atm92484_3]

Ya I wanna race but there are no tracks within 45 minutes of me. They run 1/10 gas trucks (so I'll probably race my GT next summer), but for now I just wanted something to play around with. I like AE's quality and all and I want something that falls between a car and a truck (electric), so a B3 seemed like the obvious choice.

[b32001]

Anyone else have pics of there buggy

[chance]

Thanks AZ Guy, I know the stock setup works great. The right tires are 90% of a "dialed" car. I just like to tinker.

[b32001]

I just wanted to see if anyone races there b3. at my local track, i have the only b3. everyone else has xxxlosi buggys. B3s kick ass and look better than xxx.

[brknwheel]

b32001, what type of track are you runnin on? I never saw anyone, till now, run blue springs on the rear, only silver and green. Losi cars are the most popular now. I run the B3, and right around 8 others where I race have a B3, but we are outnumbered badly.

[M 5]

Here is mine
http://www.geocities.com/jason_4tec/B301.JPG

Huge picture :eek:
sorry

[b32001]

Anyone have any questions about your B3. Let me know. also what type of motors are u guys running.

[Obi112]

Picture is not working...

As for the motor, I am running a Monsters of Touring 15 turn.
I'll be switching to a 15x4 Speed Gem once Jeep sends it to me for winning the contest.

[RC10 GuyAZ]

I'm running a Reedy MVP. In a few months i'm going to switch to modified buggy and i'm going to be running a Reedy 13turn tripple!!

Patrick :cool:

[TUCRACEMAN]

RC10 guy, where in AZ are you?

[Takedown]

Hello,

I'm currently bringing my original RC10 Team car out of retirement (originally a RC10 stock) and would like to hear about the new advances from associated in their latest kits. If I'm racing stock should I really need to invest in a new kit, has the technology of the associated buggy changed that much that I'll be at a serious disadvantage? Obviously I won't be winning national events with this dinosaur, but I'd like to be able to compete at the local level. Are there any upgrades you can recommend that I may need to bring the performance of my RC10 up to a RC10B3? I also own an RC10T, do these same recommendations hold true for the truck?

I went and checked out the track tonight and it appears that most everyone out there is running Lost XX and XXX buggies and trucks. Back in the day, Associated and Losi were neck and neck with most events being won by Associated. Now it's a different story, is there really that much different between the RC10B3 and LosiXXX?

Last but not least, what is everyone running for stock motors in their RC10's. It seems that there is a problem with my old pink can race motor and I'll need to purchase a new one soon.

Thanks for your help!!!
-Ron

[M 5]

Theres nothing lot to see yet.
I haven't painted the body, heres a link to my buggys and my truck

www.geocities.com/jason_4tec/trucks_01.JPG

[RC10 GuyAZ]

I live in Ahwatukee, near Phoenix. I-10 and ray road. Kinda far from Tuscon! Do you race at the Hobbytown there? I raced there on Western Worlds.

Patrick :cool:

[Obi112]

Just bringing this back to the top...


Takedown: I really can't answer your question (I never had the original RC10), but if you don't want to spend the money to buy a new car, just get out there and race with the car you have now. Then you'll be able to decide if a new car would be a worthy investment.

[Takedown]

Hi Obi,

Thanks for your response. I think I have come to the same conclusion! I spent some money on getting the neccesities (race batteries, new stock motor, motor spray, battery building supplies, new CVD's, etc) and really only the CVD's and Shock springs are specific to the RC10, so if I get another kit I won't have wasted much money but I can save a lot by not having to buy a new car :) I'm going to fix the RC10 up and take it out for a couple of practice days then try it out at the club race night. I'm sure it will do just fine!

I appreciate your response, thanks!
-Ron

[Obi112]

Cool! Definitely come back and tell us how you did. Even though you have an older car, feel free to ask any questions on this thread, and we will try our best to help you out.

Have fun at the race :D

[Takedown]

Will do Obi! I find myself looking here everynight for new information, what a great forum. Have you seen About.com? They have a lot of useful information as well.

Take it easy and I'll let you all know how I did in a few weeks!
-Ron

[RustlerBoy]

Do any of you run a T3 too? Is is helpful to have a B3 and T3? I have a T3, but i like the losi xxxt and losi xxx. Shuld i just get the B3 so i can have complete parts compatability?

[b32001]

I would get a B3. they are awsome buggys. Plus u have a T3 and if anything breaks,most of the parts are the same,so u could use your other parts.

[Takedown]

Rustler,

I have an RC10 Team Car and I inherited my Dad's RC10T Team Truck. It's made it pretty easy to only have to learn one type of shock, transmission, etc... However the cross compatibility for parts that are most likely to break probably isn't much. Things like A arms, shock towers, spur gears, etc... these would all be specific to the truck or buggy. You would be able to use the same parts in the transmission and shocks both those are less likely to break.

I've also hear that Associated kits drive differently then Losi kits so you may have some difficulty going back and forth between the two. I know when I drive my truck and buggy they turn and handle in the same manner, but you may not get that when going with a losi buggy.

I've been very tempted to see what losi is all about, since I have always raced associated... I think I'll stick with associated for awhile longer since they run so well :) Good luck with whichever you choose!

-Ron

[JET]

Hey Takedown! I am in the same boat. I have an originaly RC10 that was highly modified (mid engine, graphite chassis, MIP tranny, true universals, etc) and am just getting back into RC'ing after 8 years or so. I just got a Trinity P2K2 pro stock motor, as this is supposed to be the best out right now. I got some 2400's so I can still use my old peak chargers.

Anyone know when the B4 is supposed to be coming out? I think I will upgrade when it does, but it doesn't seem to make sense to spend the money now when a new kit is in the works.

[Takedown]

Hey Jet,

That's crazy! It was about 8 years ago that I got out of racing my RC10 and RC10T. And you know what I picked up: A P2K2 pro motor (read good things about the P2K), some matched 2400 cells (for the same reason you did), a set of MIP CVD's (the team CVD's were garbage back in the day, bent easily), and all the little things (oil, motor spray, new shock fluid, etc). I'm going to head out this morning to the track and see how it does. If it's running well I'm going to enter the stock class this afternoon :) Let me know how your's goes as well... I definitely think we can get these old cars rocking again!

-Ron

P.S. I think I'm going to wait as well for the B4 just to see what associated comes up with and how it compares to Losi's latest.

[RC10 GuyAZ]

Hey guys! I met this kid today and his dad owns a machining shop. He makes all these aluminum parts for his r/c's. He gave me a front bumper (made of 660 aircraft aluminum?) that is the rpm size for the T3 and B3. Its soo nice and pretty thick. It does add weight, but its in the front so most peeps add weight inside the bulkhead anyway. Well if you guys want one I can probably get one for you. Just shoot me an e-mail and i'll see what I can do for ya!

Patrick :cool:

[JET]

If your track uses ROAR rules, they are not legal. It must be shock absorbing. I am also a machinist and I wish we had some machines more suited to making car parts. The machines I run make mostly small medical parts. I do have access to lots of titanium though! Hmmm.....I have stock big enough to make titanium CVD's......There's a thought!

[bluesy]

Here's my B3. She was my second RC car and the first 'real' hobby level. It is a Factory Team edition with Lunsford turnbuckles, World's edition upgrade, P2K motor. I have only raced it a couple of times the rest is just bashing.

[RichieRich]

I haven't posted in this topic in a while. So, following bluesy, here's my B3.

http://www.mindspring.com/~christianeelin/rccars/rc10b3b.jpg

[RC10 GuyAZ]

Hey do you guys seem to have trouble keeping your rear wing on? It seems like the first time I roll over the wing is off the car and on the track. What do you suggest I do? I thought about glueing it in, but then i'd have to cut off the back of the body and replace the shock tower when i wanted to change wings. At the moment I have a small set screw that I drilled into the tower and hopefully that will hold that sucker in. You guys have similar problems? Also, with the RPM ballcups do you guys have trouble getting the links the stock size? It just looks really weird to me.....

Patrick :cool:

[Takedown]

RC10 Guy,

With my older RC10, I bent the wire at the tips that go into the posts so that they offer resistance against the inside of the posts. This keeps the wing in for me and should work on a newer buggy if the design is similiar.

[JET]

I did the same takedown. I don't even run a wing anymore. At 30 mph it doesn't do anything anyway.

On another note, according to Associated they are not even working on a B4. I have my old RC10 ready to go offroading and am curious to see how it does against the B3's!! I am quite sure I am heavier and even the B3's don't clear the jumps at our track al the time in stock class. I am thinking that may be my biggest problem. B3's are going pretty cheap, so I may have to break down and get one if the old RC10 can't hack it!

[RustlerBoy]

Sweet buggies guys! Do you hink i should get a B3? I run a T3 in stock class at my local track.

[Obi112]

Cool, this forum is getting some activity!

RC10 GuyAZ: I haven't had any trouble keeping the wing on the car, but I have had trouble keeping the wing straight (with all of the rolling I so, it always twists from side to side). And I would definitely be interested in an aluminum bumper (or other parts) from the kid.

[RustlerBoy]

is teh B3 any good?

[JET]

Yeah, the B3 team edition rocks. The factory team is great too, but not much different from the team edition except for the blue bits and rear shock tower. I think those are the only real differences. The B3 and XXX seem to be equal at our track, just depends on the driver.

[RustlerBoy]

would yu recommend the FT editon or the Team updated???

[Obi112]

It depends. Performance wise, you won't see much difference between the FT and the Team. The main difference comes in durability and coolness. The FT is more durable (due to the titanium and graphite parts) and looks cooler (due to the blue parts). So, if you have the extra cash, the FT is worth it.

[Obi112]

Wow... this has been dead for a long time.

[2nd Gear]

I got a FTB3 tooo!I got mine a year ago.Havent had 1 piece break but a ball cup and thats cause the guy who happened to win the ROUND was doing donuts and Iwas flying up the sraight and slid sideways full brakes and smack!I have a couple of things on it.I have RPM rear arm mounts-Frnt/Rear bumpers gear cover;chucked the old alum. outdrives (what a waist)This was before the I knew about the plastic outdrive savers.I run a GM3 with 2400's 1 degree all around 30wt. in frnt. 35 in rear.I am going to change to 25 in frnt and 30 in the rear come next race day and see how I do with that set up I use the supplied springs.Theres a JR PROPO NES-4735 taking care of the steering and a ESC that I dont want to be laughed at about.LOL.I use a robinson 81S and robinson 24T aluminum pinion.This gets me to the A main but havent been able to get to finish in the lower half.Stinkin driver!!!!One things for sure Im 1 of the fastest down the straight.I think I need to go up 1 tooth on the pinion so thats another adjustment.It is a very fast track I run at.Oh I use the 25 degree steering blocks too.I dont haveno problem with the blocks no bind no nothin.I put them on and went.I dont know why some of yous are having problems with them I hope you can figure it out it makes a world of difference.(For my driving style??)

[2nd Gear]

ttt hey what happened to you guys?????????

[2nd Gear]

TTT??????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????Come in B3 owners come in!!!!!!Huston we have a problem!!!!!!!!Maybe you guys are out there spankin some Losi's!!!!!!!!!Yeah thats it.Over the river and thru the woods,Runin over a Losi I go!!

[2nd Gear]

Is that the most rediculosly longest post youve seen????^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[Obi112]

Dude, calm down. I don't visit here as much as I used to (and it seems the other guys don't, either). Glad to hear your doing well, and keep up the good work.

[2nd Gear]

Im just foolin around I noticed you guys dont come here often.I was in a good mood then.Cant wait til Saturday the 29th it is race day.

[adam lancia]

has anyone had a problem with the steering knuckles breaking a lot on their car? any suggestions for something to strengthen the area where the groove in the knuckle is?

thanks,

adam

[aeb3man_44]

no no problems here im really impressed with the toughness of the ft b3 i love it it is twice as good as my traxxas bandit
:p

[F1Junkie]

Hi There -

Happy to see a thread on my latest acquisition! I just traded my HPI Pro 3 for a FT B3 - I have been fixing it up and so far have only been able to run it in my basement.

I am a roadie and so I have plans on using it for bumpy parking lots - I wasn't fond of having a touring car clicking and bouncing all over the place, and picking debris out of the belts and replacing stripped spur gears...

I plan on getting the Cobra wheel adapters to fit pan car wheels for the carpet track in my town, once it reopens. Right now I have a set of Road rage tires, and I think they'll rock on pavement.

Anyone have pics of their lowered and foam-tire shod B3s? I love buggies now - kind of like off road F1s.... Something about open-wheeled rc cars...

I think the magazines are telling customers to buy the wrong things - off road cars are so much more versatile. Touring cars are great, but who really has access to a perfectly smooth surface? I'd rather just find a wide open parking lot and let 'er rip... Heck, I enjoy just running in front of my house...

cheers, hope this keeps up

dave


:D :D :D

[RichieRich]

I like the buggies too. They seem more versatile. I haven't had a problem with the steering knuckles on my B3.

[Obi112]

Yep, off-road is the best. But for some people, having a car with no ground clearance and no control is a little grass is the ultimate thrill :D

No problems with the steering knuckles...

[firebladerunner]

rpm makes replacement knuckles that very tough they also fit the t3

[2nd Gear]

Originally posted by adam lancia
has anyone had a problem with the steering knuckles breaking a lot on their car? any suggestions for something to strengthen the area where the groove in the knuckle is?

thanks,

adam

The B3 is fun to jump but my god not over the Empire State Building?????????

[speedydave]

I have never broken a steering knuckle in my T3 OR my B3. AE fixed the problem with them shortly after the problem was found.

[aeb3man_44]

Hey do you guys know who sells those suspension hight adjusters insted of the simple black adjusters that you have to put 2 on the front of each shock i mean they fly across the room if you try to take them off sometimes into me! If sold who would sell them?:confused: :confused:

[2nd Gear]

aeb3man HPI is the place to go.

[adam lancia]

thanks for the input guys. i'll give the rpm pieces a try and let you know how they work out,

adam

[F1Junkie]

Hey Folks - we need more pics of people's B3s, eh?

C'mon - those with digital cameras - use 'em!

dave

:cool: :) :p

[Obi112]

I'm not sure if I've posted any pictures on this thread, so here you go:

http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/4-Obi112/side_front.jpg

http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/4-Obi112/top_view.jpg

http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/4-Obi112/front_view.jpg

http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/4-Obi112/jump3.jpg

http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/4-Obi112/top_view_body.jpg

[adam lancia]

hey obi,

nice car man. i have a question though. did you intend on having that much toe in on your front wheels?? seems like a lot to me. i always prefered to have toe out because it quickens steering response a little,

adam

[RichieRich]

Yeah, we need more pictures. So far only bluesy, obi112 and myself have posted pics. C'mon guys!

[F1Junkie]

Hey Obi -

Is yours a B3 Team? Thanks again for posting the pics.

I have questions about older RC 10s. I may have the opportunity to get some used RC 10s in a trade. So I have a few questions -

Is the gold chassis RC 10 rare?

How many generations of RC 10s were there before the B2? I think the chassis was later coloured black right?

Anything else I should be looking for?

I am looking at getting these cars as display pieces, not actually running but run-able, if that is a word. I remember the gold RC 10 when I first got into it... Just trying to go down memory lane...

So any tips about collecting RC 10s would be appreciated.

But for now - I will run my FT B3 and still have a blast!

Regards

dave


P.S. Click on the box that e-mails you updates on this thread to keep current!

[Takedown]

Originally posted by F1Junkie

I have questions about older RC 10s. I may have the opportunity to get some used RC 10s in a trade. So I have a few questions -

Is the gold chassis RC 10 rare?


The gold chassis RC10 is not rare in the sense that they are difficult to find/purchase. When I searched ebay and here on these forums for old RC10's I had a harder time finding the Black Chassis "Team Car" Rc10.


How many generations of RC 10s were there before the B2? I think the chassis was later coloured black right?

Anything else I should be looking for?


As far as I can remember there have only been 3 "major" generations of RC10, starting with the original buggy, then the B2 and currently the B3. It is possible there were other associated buggies before the gold chassis RC10, but those would be before my time. When buying the older RC10's if you are looking for performance there are a few things to look out for. If the buggy has a black chassis it is most likely a team car and is complete with ball bearings, stealth transmission, and team hard coated shocks. The gold chassis RC10's came any many varieties, some with bearings others with bushings, some with stealth transmissions, others with the stock tranny and I think all of them came with the gold coated shocks, which wear after use.

I'd recommend looking for the old RC10 team cars, this way if you get the urge to race it, it will perform well. I picked up one here on these forums for $55 shipped which I have been using as a "parts" car when my RC10 team car breaks during practice and on race day. I wouldn't pay much more then $45-$60 for a rolling chassis since they are not valued very high these days.


I am looking at getting these cars as display pieces, not actually running but run-able, if that is a word. I remember the gold RC 10 when I first got into it... Just trying to go down memory lane...

So any tips about collecting RC 10s would be appreciated.


Don't limit yourself to just using them as display pieces. They are quite a bit of fun to race, if you tweak them just like any kit they should do well at the track. I recently put in a new stock motor, some tires, and 2400 batteries into my 8 year old RC10 and it kept up with the pack. The only "big" difference I noticed was the newer buggies are quite a bit lighter and handle better in the rough sections of the track.

Good luck and have fun! :)
-Ron

[F1Junkie]

Hi Ron -

Thanks so much for your advice and suggestions. I still think I will keep them as displays since I have a FT B3...

I will also keep the value of the RC 10s in mind when I negotiate...

I just like to tinker and so taking one apart will be a good experience...

dave


;)

[chance]

Guess what my wife got for Christmas...no, not a B3, a nice digital camera!

[chance]

I got the FT B3!

[chance]

Well, I guess I need to work on learning how to use this picture software.:(

[F1Junkie]

Hi - For those who doubt the validity of wings on rc cars, I was made a believer today... I was running my B3 FT with Road Rages today. At speed it has a bit of a push. So for a lark I decided to remove the wing to see what would happen. Very soon after it did something it hasn't done since I got it - it fishtailed at speed.

So now I will no longer consider wings from an aesthetic standpoint - I believe they work, and my informal research proved that.

My Cobra pan car wheel adapters are on order, can't wait to try them!

dave

[Obi112]

F1 Junkie: Yes, that is a B3 Team Edition (the older one, but I did buy the Worlds Update for it... plus it has a few graphite parts).

Adam: Your right, that is a ton of toe in (and a bit too much camber, also). It really was affecting my steering, until a guy down at the track pointed it out to me after he noticed the wheels twitching while marshalling. He them gave me his guages and recommended a setting for me.

Those pictures are probably a year old. I should take some new ones (whenever I get a chance to paint a better looking body).

[Obi112]

ttt

[RC10 GuyAZ]

Hey guys

Man, we're almost to 5 pages! I took my B3 to this guys house the other day. His entire backyard is like a huge skatepark bowl/halfpipe. It was soo fun. The B3 took sooooo much abuse and I didn't break a part! It really proved to me how durable these cars really are! I'll try and get some pics for you guys soon.

Patrick :cool:

[DLF]

Is it just me? I seem to go through more wings on the B3 than on any other car I've ever owned. I think it's because the thing is pinned on.

Dana F

[Obi112]

The wings take a lot of abuse during roll-overs and such. I haven't broken one, but I have bent them and twisted the bar.

[F1Junkie]

So does anyone have a good way to secure the wing a bit better?

I'm excited, my Cobra wheel adapters should be in soon, so I'll be hanging with the TCs soon - that's sick...

I'm an on road guy with an off-road lifestyle...

dave

[F1Junkie]

Hey again -

Does anyone know if the regular body for a B3 (6142) will fit on a FT B3 with the lower shock tower? Thanks a lot...

dave

[Obi112]

Yes it will, though you may need to do some additional trimming (if the body has already been cut for an older B3). If your buying new, then you will have no problems.

[F1Junkie]

Hey Obi

Good to see the B3 forum coming back to life...

So you don't see any problems? I figured the lower shock tower on the FT B3 would lower the body to much, since I have the regular B3 body. I haven't even taken out the body out of the bag - I got it in a trade. My thinking is that the body would just sit too low, 'cos if you look at the pics of the old and new shock tower together, the body mount is a lot lower on the new tower.

Anyone actually try to install a regular body on a FT B3?

thanks

dave

[LEMMEDRIVEIT!!]

Hey i have a B3- got it for CHriatmas- i am a beginner kinda, but i got my rusty(all hopped up now) in the spring. When i can i'll put in my car's pic- i paint thatm myself- the bodies are okay- also, i have a 16 turn speed gem, soon to get a 13 turn P-94- can you guys tell me some gearing for this motor? also the gearing for a P2K- i have a rusty and it has a 14 turn Speed gem, i really need to lower two teeth on the pinion,- i think it goes about 27 mph- i'm gonna race stock with my buggy, becasue i KNOW i woulnd't be able to keep up with the mod. class- i just like mod motors, for bashing, and speed jumps and stuff--- and does anybody race in the LI raceway and hobby in farmingdale NY??? it is the best indoor off-road track on the east coast- its awesome- so does anybody live near there or race there? i like to meet ya- i have the FT B3- see ya!!!

Hey this thread isn't faling apart-i'll be here and i'll talk to some of the guys at the track to see if they go here

[LEMMEDRIVEIT!!]

my b3 if blue with checkered orange and flames on the sides- say hi if ya see me!!!

[Dr.Bad]

Alright, I got a set of MIP Lightdrives for my B3, and one of them broke with a STOCK motor(old worn out Midnight in fact) on the first run. The other lasted a bit longer, but broke none the less. And I have my slipper set up correctly! Also, I have CVD's for the B3, and I have to limit my down-travel and lower shock position on the arm so I don't pop out the axles! Whats the deal??!! Anyone else a bit annoyed by this/have a solution? I got it temporarily fixed by using spaces/limiters etc, but it seems like I am taking away from handling by impeding my suspension out back. Any ideas?

[LEMMEDRIVEIT!!]

make sure that you ahve your arms and your hub carriers on the right sides, also, that you built the diff right, and you have the pins in in the right places- i had the same problem i think as your- if i'm thinking of yours

[RichieRich]

Double check your rear linkage and shock mounting points. Also, stay with steel regarding the CVDs. Aluminum is simply not strong enough and too soft for this type of application.

[adam lancia]

hey guys,

does anyone have a list of "necessary" upgrades for the B3?? i've got the team kit w/bearings, teflon shocks and the other team stuff as well as lunsford titanium all around. any ideas/suggestions?? any help you guys can provide would be great. thanks,

adam

[Dr.Bad]

I have steel CVD's, I have my shocks on the outside lower position, and if I move them to the inside for a bit mroe downtravel, then my axles pop out. I have my diff. assembled correctly, along with everything else. I just don't see the point of having two shock mounting positions on the rear arms if you can only use one!

I love my full graphite B3 and all, but this has been bothering me since it was a brand spanking new B2. I would like more rear suspension travel without the axles popping out every time I land a jump a bit squirrely. I have all the shims on the inside of the outdrives, and I do everything I can to get more length out of the CVD's. Could it be that the B2 CVD's are shorter than the B3's? If so, that could explain it, these are a carry over from my conversion.

[DrDiff]

OK please straighten me out. The only difference between the 9032 RC10B3 Team kit Updated and the 9043 RC10B3 Factory Team kit, is basically the graphite chassis parts and the blue stuff.

The blue stuff doesn't do anything for me. I would like to get back into off road. I would think that the performance between the team updated car and the factory team car would be minimal. Am I correct?

[firebladerunner]

dr. diff you are correct the performance difference is not great

dr. bad try using a heavier oil or no.2 piston for more pack. moving the shock to the inside hole would not make the car jump that much better it makes the rear end feel softer wich helps on slick tracks and yes you would have to use spacer inside the shock to get the right downtravel. my b3 has as much downtravel as most losi's I've seen I think there should be enough there if like you say everything is put together right (I still use the same cvd's from my b2 so I am pretty sure they are the same length)

adam there is not much out there to get better perfomance from the car maybe a TI top shaft, graphite components, most of the other stuff is just having the car setup right and practice practice practice

[speedydave]

In my opinion the FT kit is not really necessary with the T3 and B3. I know this is the B3 thread, but IMO the GT and TC3 FT kits have way too many hop ups to say they aren't worth it. Anyways, yes, the performance will be very hard to notice, so don't worry. The best two hop ups I have found for the cars would be titanium turnbuckles, and ball bearing steering. BB steering may not be necessary, but I don't like the idea of my car's ability to funtion properly relying on two little plastic bushings. Also, I don't have the money for super torque, super speed $100 servos(I only have one...in my primary race car..a T3), so that little bit might help with a lower speed/torque servo.

[Dr.Bad]

ok, I'll try those setups to fix the axle problem. Another question though:

Anyone else break an unusually high number of rear shock towers?

I have gone through 4 in the last year racing, and the new strengthened one didn't fair any better than the last. Perhaps I tool on my car a bit much, perhaps not. Anyone else have the same problem?

[RichieRich]

Dr. Bad - Are you sure something's not tweaked on your car? I've never heard of anyone breaking so many shock towers.

[Dr.Bad]

Could be, although it does handle sweetly. I guess its that when I run it on road and I traction roll, then is basically the only time the shock tower snaps. I have to imagine that would really take a hard hit!

[DrDiff]

What is the servo that Associated reccomends for the B3?

I use a HiTech 525bb in my 4wd sedan. It has 40 ounc/inches of tork and a 60 degree transit time of .16 seconds. They make a Metal Geared version. I wonder if that would be good for the B3

[adam lancia]

has anyone had any success with either the mvp or the p2k motors?? has one worked better than another?? any other suggestions of other stockers to use?? thanks guys,

adam

[onehawkeye]

I am new to R/C and going to build my first car, I have decided on the following combination, what does everyone think?

RC10B3 Team
P2k2 Pro motor
Futaba PEKA radio
Futaba mc230cr ESC
Trinity 2400 6 cell
Duratraxx intellipeak Deluxe charger

Any recomendation on these or other things would be great

Thanks

[LEMMEDRIVEIT!!]

first of all, unless you are gonna race, i would start out with a lower batt- unless it doesn't matter about price- second, i know i have a b3 and this is the b3 thread, but i don't know about a B3 as your first car, if i were you, i would get a car that is very durable, like a traxxas rustler- i have one, and you can upgrade it ALOT- i race it now- you should get one that is upgradeable- i don't think you shuold get a B3 because it IS a very good car, but not the greatest for learning how to build a kit- or you migth get the hang of it and be good at it- just my opinion- also- i have heard from many people- including my own cousin- that the duratrax chargers have been recalled- i think it was because they would start on fire after a while- go with a MRC superbrain 959- or a pit bull- also i have my favorite, and i'm sure that the futabab ESC is very good, but i would definantley go for an LRP or a NOVAK-

[aeb3man_44]

i have a mc330cr in my ftb3 whats the difference? i mean if you want to use a lower motor but mine locks reverse i mean those novaks and lrps are soo expensive whats the point? for that little thing $135?give me a break....

[firebladerunner]

as far stock motors go either the p2k or mvp is a fine choice my personal preference would be a mvp I wouls also suggest getting a motor from a smaller company like fantom axiom pro-match putnam and there are severel other. the reason I say this is that trinity and reedy do such large quantities of motors they can't always spend the time to tweak a motor just right and some of the smaller companies will take that extra time to be sure you get a quality motor.

onehawkeye
what do you intend to do are you going to race or play either way I would get a t3 not a b3 (easier to drive and more versitale to play with) stay away from the duratrax chargers get a novak or a pit bull anything but duratrax! plus it definitly worth the extra money for a better speed control if you are going to race I have severel speedos that at the end of five minutes with ten turn mods in a four wheel drive buggy ( one of the harshest test of equipment) that are barely warm to the touch. if you try that with a futaba it will blow up. plus with some of those advanced features you can really make a difference in how the car drives

[aeb3man_44]

it won't blow up because i use the right motors and also it gets down to 13 turns and also locks reverse if i wanna race but if you want to use a stock why would you spend all that doe?

[firebladerunner]

you runa thirteen turn motor in your b3 I will run a ten turn in my wheeler . run them all out for five minutes them put your finger on the speed control. I would wager that you could burn your finger on your futaba speed control where as my speed control might be warm to the touch it's all about efficiancy and adjustibilty do you have the option of how strong your brakes are? the option of how much punch you have? do you have the option of drag brakes or no drag brakes? how about a turbo start function for the first turn can you change the parameters of the speedo to suit stock over mod or mod over stock (different motors have different needs) oh and by the way that futaba speedo will eventually fail if you want to run 13 turn motors all the time they are not truly built to handle that kind of abuse I have seen it before.

if you run stock class and don't have ambtions of being a national level type driver then by all means save some money on the cheaper speed controls but don't think for a second that those more expensive speedo's are not worth the money

[onehawkeye]

This is going to be used as a stock race setup to start with and then probably modified later, just FYI

[aeb3man_44]

oh yeah well it can handle down to 13 turn just like it says everywere

[firebladerunner]

I have been racing rc cars now for going on 16 years I have seen just about everything there is to see. I have followed the technology end of this hobby with a microscope just about heck I even have almost every issue of car action stashed away. so please believe me when I speak I have a lot of experience. even if I can't spell. and by all means run a 13 turn motor until the speedo fries itself

[b32001]

I had a FTB3 with a Novak Atom esc and thats the only brand of esc i would buy or the LRP's. Thats because there top of the line. I ran a 10turn double in my buggy and it was fast as hell. My speed control didn't even get hot. If you were to run that motor with a cheaper esc then u will see a melted piece of junk. All im trying to say is if u have the money then get a good esc, and if u want to go faster get a better motor.

[DLF]

Ya know, there's a real easy way to find out if an ESC will handle a certain wind motor. Ask the company that makes it. Send them an email. Keep the response. If they say it will handle a 10 turn motor, great. Do it. If it fries, you've got an email to prove them wrong. I don't think the manufacturer is going to tell you it can handle when it won't. Just my 2 cents.

Dana F

[aeb3man_44]

well i actually put a hand wound 14 motor on it all the time it dosn't get hot at all

well guys i am thinking of upgrading sometime to a dually for it so its set

in wasn't trying to say anything mean to you guys i know those speed controles are very well made i hope you guys have the funist of times with them! lrp and novak are like ae and losi the best!

[AnimeKing]

I need some help/advice/opinion on my B3.

I just got it and put together bags A and B last night.

I don't have the manual w/ me (I'm at work) so I can't really name parts, and I don't know them off hand.

Anyway, when I was putting together the parts that the wheels go on and then hook to the A arms it was very difficult to get the shafts into the plastic. I had to kinda grind it out w/ a hobby knife.

Is this normal? I put together a T3 before w/ out this problem.

Also, the full assembly of bags A + B are kinda stiff and tight, will that be a problem?

Thanks.
AnimeKing

[LEMMEDRIVEIT!!]

Hey, yesterday i was runnning my FTB3 and i heard a noise- i drove the car to me to check if anything was wwrong- everthing seeemed find- so then i was driving it and then it stopped- looked it over, and i thought i had the slipper to loose- brought the car inside, and i have lost the screw that hold the spur gear to the slipper or whatever it does- Its the screw that goes through one of the holes in the spur- so now i have to buy some more--- also i have a hooped up rusty, and i broke an output yokes, so i replaced it but it broke while i was replacing it- i have the steel output yokes for it, but i can't get the grub screws in- sp now i have NO cars to run- I am sad- any ideas on how to prevent another screw from falling out on the spur and about the yokes? thanx

[2nd Gear]

Yes my friend it is called lock tite (blue)


This is something I thought was funny,I have had my FTB3 for a year and I just reread my directions while rebuilding my shocks.(no it isnt the first time i did it.)But I never knew that the rubber o rings went on the shock body I thought they went in the cap???That would explain why I always had air in them??

The other thing is my buggy always made this clicking noise and come to find out i put the washers on the cvd's wrong.I had the 3 on the inside and 1 on outside and it is supposed to be the opposite.:D

[StinkMan]

hey king. I just put a new b3 ft together a couple of weeks ago. I found that if i lube up the hinge pins that go into the plastic parts and ream the holes out by using a drill bit thats the same size as the hole (this gets rid of any burrs) everything goes togther easily and isnt stiff at all.

Hope this helps
Stinky

[Obi112]

Hey guys, haven't been to this thread in a while. It's good to see that we have some regular visitors that are keeping it going.

AnimeKing, yes, I recall an extremely tight fit also. You have two options. You can drill out the holes slightly (as per Stinkman's instructions), being very very very careful to not take off too much material (otherwise, the pins would have room to rock, which I don't think would be too good for handling). Your second option is to just put them in there, which is what I did. My parts were a tight fit, but I was still able to get them in there, using a hammer and punch. Just be careful though... if the fit is too tight, you may have some binding problems, which you would then need to take apart the assembly and refer to the first option.

[2nd Gear]

I want to find out what gear ratios you guys are runing.

I use a P2K2 pro 81 robinson spur and a 25 tooth robinson pinion.
This combo is insane.I use mainly matched 2000's but I also use 2 2400's.
I get guys asking me if I have a mod in my buggy all the time.


Also for those of you who happen to run on a very bumpy track (like me) what is your set up.Has anyone used the black springs on thier b3?

[aeb3man_44]

how much more powerful is the p2k2 then the p2k?

[jakejanjoe]

I havn't seen any good p2k2 motors yet. I compared the stats between the k's and the 2k's at my lhs and the k's were much better.

[2nd Gear]

I spoke to people about the tags that come on trinity motors and they are far from correct they do a quick dyno run and the brushes arent even seated when they do it so those numbers arent nothing to really go by.A p2k will have a higher out put due to the higher torque.P2k's are hardly used at my track.The dont keep up with the p2k2's.Now we are begining to use Big block stock motors and they have more torque then p2ks.They are a hand wound stocker believe it or not.A guy we race with builds them they are real nice Im using it now and giving the p2k2 a rest.You have to gear super tall compared to a p2k-p2k2 but they are fast.(due to the lack of rpm.)I like to call it the stump puller.:D

[Obi112]

I am using a 23 tooth pinion and the stock spur gear with a 15x2 motor right now (will be bolting in a 15x4 for the upcoming race season). I am using too high of a gear ratio, but it is necessary for me to keep up with the other mod guys using 10 and 11 turn motors (my ESC's limit is 15 turn).

[aeb3man_44]

i'm also using a reedy tri sonic 14x3 ohhhh it is so fast of a car with that in it i bet you obi i could woop you no effence haha

[Obi112]

You probably could, seeing how you not only have a hotter mod (14 turn vs. 15 for me), but you also have a much nicer motor design (Tri-Sonic for you, Monster of Touring for me).

[aeb3man_44]

yo obi you live in philly man yo i live in delaware county we are prob really close thats cool i live in the town Brookhaven,PA what part of philadelphia do yo live in? maybe we can meet eachother lol :) cool :cool:

[Obi112]

I live in Northeast Philly. Where do you race?

[aeb3man_44]

i live close to west philly i don't really race yet but i have 2 times at this little ht usa and theres a place called mushroom bowl which i havn't raced at yet im pretty new i started in june 2001 but what good race tracks are near you i could prob go to them sometime your not that close but not too far

[Obi112]

I was actually looking at the Mushroom Bowl when I was looking for places to race. I ended up deciding on DC Ultra Trax, which is near Warminster, PA (I think it's close than the Mushroom Bowl for me). It's an offroad only track, and usually they'll only have modified truck and buggy classes (around 10 cars in each class).

I only got up there about 3 times last season, but they were all enjoyable. The only complaints I had were that there was a lack of people (then again, the two times I went the weather wasn't that great) and the guys running it are fairly slow (racing is supposed to start around noon, but sometimes they wouldn't start until 1 or so... and racing wouldn't be over until close to 4 or 5).

Nevertheless, it is a really nice track, run by a great guy (sold me a pair of rear tires for $10!). I think you owe to yourself to check them out. The new season will probably start in the beginning of April, and I believe opening day is free (it was last season, and a lot of people showed up... racing was $14 the rest of the year, for 3 qualifiers and a main). There is a small hobby shop on site.

Here's the website: (though it isn't much good for info, besides directions and phone number to the store)
JC RC Hobbies (http://www.jcrchobbies.com/)

By the way, the track is not located at the store. It's less than a 10 minute drive from there (you can call them up and they'll fax a map to you).

[Obi112]

Here's a picture my dad took during my first race (opening day last season). The track layout will probably be different this year (I didn't go a second time until about a month later, and they had already changed it drastically). But this pic gives you a good idea of the track layout and the facilities (the track is actually located at a day camp... I'm not totally sure of the name, but I believe it was Briarwood Day Camp).

[aeb3man_44]

yeah i looked there before online but the Mushroom Bowl is really cool it has indoor oval track, outdoor trioval asphult track, and a dirt track, the stores prices are a rip off i just will go there to race it's $12.00 i believe the guy said the website is www.mushroombowl.com its prob way too far like you said but im just giving some info it's a nice place to go to.


the track your talking about is pretty far from me (maybe i'll go in the future) but the track looks nice

I also will be racing touring car class at a hobbytown Usa in West Chester it only cost $7.00 if you get first place which i got my FIRST 2 races ever you get half the money everyone puts in the pot

how old r u? im only 13 but im taller than most im 5 ft 11 inchs tall

[Obi112]

Ahhh! Extremely bad news! I just contacted the track owner about when opening day would be, and here is his response:

Dan I'm sorry but we closed down for good. We might run some parking lot racing. Keep in touch. Thanks Dave Cowan

Looks like I'll have to find a new place to race. Does that HobbyTown USA have offroad? I think the Mushroom Bowl is the next closest track.

And I am 16 years old, been racing for one year (had my B3 for two years, been into R/C for three years).

[aeb3man_44]

ok the Hobbytown usa starts in April 9,2002 it does not have offroad its out inthe parkinglot were they race only but you can race the b3 still

thats so weird about them closing thats too bad im sorry about that

the next best thing is the mushroom bowl which i would highly suggest to go to race

Hey we could meet up sometime at one of these places!

yo can you post pics of your b3 again? the previous ones didn't come up that you posted

[Obi112]

I'll check out those two places (though I don't think driving a B3 on an onroad course would be much fun). I e-mailed the track guy with some other questions, including other places to race. Unfortunately, this guy isn't much of a help and just said there is a track at Limerick. Have you ever heard of that one, aeb3man?

As for the pics, my picture server closed down (Clikshow), so all my links went bad. Here's one for now, I'll have to take some later (if I ever get back to racing and upgrade my car).

****
Hmmm, it's giving me some errors when I try to post it. Will try again later.

[aeb3man_44]

no sorry i havn't heard of the one in Limerick i've only really heard of these 2 ones because they are the closest to me

yeah your right even thogh i put on road tires on my ftb3 it's just too nice of a car to race on road those truck/buggy guys really arn't that good and they'll run strait into you but i'm willing to continue racing my bandit i beat 2 nitro trucks and one electric my 1st race! Those nitro trucks are sooo slow off the start and are really anoying to listen to

[Obi112]

Cool, so you actually race your B3 against touring cars and stuff?

I just did a little research on some tracks.

I think I found the one in Limerick, it's called Thunder Road Raceway. Unfortunately, Lycos maps says it's 55 minutes away, and usually their estimates are a little low.

The Mushroom Bowl looks pretty cool (though the track doesn't look as good as DC Ultra Trax). Unfortunately, Lycos says it is 1 hour, 10 minutes away.

And, is that HobbyTown USA on West Chester Pike. There is one listed on the RCCA track directory, so I assume that's the one you talked of. Lycos says it is 55 minutes away.


So, I am looking at a drive of at least 1 hour. I would be fine with that, but I'm not sure if my dad would be willing to drive up there on a regular basis (I don't have my license yet). I'll talk to him about it, though, and we'll see what happens.

[aeb3man_44]

nah i don't race my b3 there and i'm not really thinking of doing it either i recieved my b3 after the raced ended anyway i've only raced my traxxas bandit there and won my 1st races

but if you are thinking of going to one of these places some time they start dirt racing at mushroom bowl this sping i believe you could go to one and tell me when sometime and we can meet up

do you have aol im? if so whats your sn?

yes the htusa is on west chester pike

[Obi112]

Actually, I just signed up for AIM (I have AOL, but we're getting rid of it after this month). My screen name is Erunama, so drop me a line next time your on (I haven't really used it much yet... in fact, I haven't even told many people about the new name).

As for racing, the Mushroom Bowl is probably my main choice if I go to any of them.

[Obi112]

Ok, it won't let me post a pic of my B3, because I already posted it on another thread. Here's a link instead:
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=499274

[aeb3man_44]

yo go on aim now if u see this

ok whenever you go to the mushroom bowl if you do tell me and i will prob go and meet you there my sn is purevenom650 on aim

email me at purevenom_44@excite.com to tell me anything

i have a 15t motor(machine wound) in my b3 now just like you

[Obi112]

Hehe... I stopped cruising the boards around the time you posted that.

Which type of motor you got? I am using a Monsters of Touring, but I have a Speed Gems (I think it's a Jade... whatever 15x4 is) ready for whenever I get my car back out from its winter hiding place.

I actually started saving money a week ago to buy a new ESC and radio, but I'm not sure whether or not I need a new ESC now that I might not be able to race (I was looking at the Hitec HFX... it's only around $70 and can handle down to a 10 turn).

[aeb3man_44]

it's a 15 turn team orion rush

go on im more often i'm on this second i want to talk to you faster:D

im going to race nitro rs4s with my tc3 elec soon!I'm gonna woop em'

[Obi112]

This is my last post for today, I have a ton of homework to do. I have to read 20+ chapters in Huck Finn for a quiz tomorrow; I have about 20 math problems to finish; I have to write a 1-2 page journal assignment about Huck Finn; I have two exercises for German class; and I have to study for a World Religions quiz that is tomorrow.

Whew... oh, and I also have a guitar lesson tonight, which ties up about an hour of my time. And I am sitting here wasting time on this BB :(

You have a TC3? I was under the impression that you only had a B3 (and a Bandit). You have any other cars?

I have a B3 and a Tamiya TA03R (which I don't use anymore, because it has no radio gear... I needed its radio when I got the B3 :D ).

[aeb3man_44]

OK my 1st car is the bandit, 2nd being the b3,and lastly being the tc3

[2nd Gear]

hey obi112 do you happen to have any spare dog bones for the tao3????I just was tinking with mine and cant find a dog bone:mad: If you do email me my man maybe we can help each other.

[Obi112]

Heh... I'm busy "writing" my journal right now :D

As for the dogbones, sorry, no extra ones. The only ones I have are the 4 needed for the car. I can't give you one of them because I am actually trying to sell my TA03R right now, hoping to put the money towards better equipment.

[2nd Gear]

what are you selling it for?I might be interested.What does it have?I guess it is in the swqap and sell so ill go look but if itisnt andwhen you got time to respond email me with the full specs.

obi112 get back to your home work!!!!Your not gonna get it done looking at that pc!!(your mum yelling at ya lol):D

[mtn bkr]

Hey guys, I need your help on something. My brother owns a B3 that has some drive train issues. When you give the car some throttle, there's a sort of crackling sound coming from the right rear of it. If you take the right wheel off, it quiets down. Could there be a shot bearing somewhere on the right side? I'm going to tear into it before raceday (Sunday), but thought I'd post here as well to see if anyone else has experienced anything similar. I might pull the bearings from my T3 to see if that might be it.

[2nd Gear]

i have the same problem!I have traced it to the washers that space the wheel outward.The wheel is hitting the hub carrier.

[Obi112]

Since 2nd Gear has had that problem, check out his suggestion first. If that's not the problem, it sounds like a messed up bearing to me. Take the bearings out and check them putting them on something tapered (like a reamer) and spinning the outside. You should be able to feel and hear how smooth the bearing is.

Though I don't think a dirty bearing can lead to that loud of a noise (to be noticeable during acceleration).


As for my TA03R, it's not in the BST forum (I tried a few weeks ago but didn't get many responses). I have replied to Wanted ads, though. It is a rolling chassis, bone stock. Includes a painted, partly decaled body (Nissan R390 GT1). I still have the box and manual, and all of the extra parts and things that seem to be around from a Tamiya kit. I was looking to get around $80, but make an offer if that one is not fair to you.

[aeb3man_44]

yo are you going to go to any of those places obi? how did you do on your homework?finish it?

i will talk to you later im at my friends house

oh yeah go on your sn some time

[aeb3man_44]

this forum says that obi wrote last thats weird

[Obi112]

Yeah, that was weird. I was wondering why no one responded for two days. It's back on track now.

Yes, I finished the homework. The journal question was extremely confusing, and since I have only read about 10 chapters of Huck Finn (supposed to be up to 30), it was really hard to write. Hopefully I at least got a passing mark.

What places are you talking about? If it's the tracks, I won't try to go to one until April or so (when most of the race seasons start). And I think I found another track to go to. It is called Family Hobbies, and it's in Vineland, NJ.

Here's their website: http://68.45.177.67/ubb/fh/index.html

Take a look at it. Their track looks unbelievable! It is still 1+ hour away, but since it is about the same distance away as the Mushroom Bowl, I'd rather go here (it looks killer, and one guy told me it is run really well).

[aeb3man_44]

do you think we are both really close to it?

it looks nice but sisnce i have the m b i think i will stick to that

[Obi112]

According to Lycos, Family Hobbies is approximately 58 minutes from me (54.04 miles). It says that Brookhaven is approximately 51 minutes from you (41.12 miles).

So it is further than the MB for you, and about the same distance away from me. You should definitely try to get to the two big races they have, the "Memorial Day Clash" (May 24-26) and the "Trinity Eastern States Challenge" (August 30-September 1). I think they are pretty big races, with larger entry fees (but I think free handouts and stuff).

[Obi112]

ttt

[Obi112]

Hmmmm, why the slow down all of a sudden?

[2nd Gear]

My pack dumped:confused: :mad: :D

[aeb3man_44]

everythings fine with my b3 i don't know what to say lol:cool: