Traxxas T-Maxx Forum v3.0

[TeamMishap]

Haven't tried it on a big jump yet. I'll give it a shot soon and see what happens. Maybe it'll do a cool full forward flip and land wheels down.

[fuzzy2133]

if the truck still does a front flip off bigger jumps then you have to dampen the rear shocks more, change springs, or remove preload spacers to reduce the extra spring rate in the rear.

[Got Speed]

R/Cbum4life- Is it the needle or the carb body? Here is the body: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDGA0&P=7

[R/Cbum4life]

I did not realize you can purchase just the carb body(yes that is the problem)... I did not see the price on that? thanks for the advice looks like I don't need to buy a whole new assembled carb. THANK GOODNESS!! Moral of the story is DONT BUY A USED TRUCK!!!

[Got Speed]

I think it is $14.79 or something like that. It's alot better than buying a whole carb for $50. I've bought several used cars off here and ebay. I pretty much agree. Out of the 6 used cars I have bought 2 were in good condition and one was as described. So you have a 50/50 chance of getting something you don't want. I don't buy used cars any more unless it is from someone I know or I can inspect it myself before I buy it.

[R/Cbum4life]

yeah, the worst part is the fact that he said he would send me the parts, so i waited to leave feedback, and by the time i got the parts i missed leaving him some nasty messages by one stinkin' day!! ah im still angry! I've had this truck since middle of last winter and have run it once, and it didnt work good.

[Got Speed]

R/Cbum4life- That's pretty bad. Was this on ebay? Or on here?

[dmrcflyr2]

I have a 2.5 that I had shifting beautifully. I decided to remove the reverse so I purchased the forward only gear and shaft. I also disconnected the front drive shaft. Now I cannot find the shift point. I figured that it would change do to less mass in the transmission. Does anyone know what the stock setting on the adjustment screw is? I have tried the following: 1, 1.5, 1.75, 2, and 2.5 out from fully closed, spring compressed. At this point I cannot tell what it sounds like in second gear. Initially after the forward only installation I believe that I was in second gear immediately, therefore I closed the screw all the way to see how the truck reacted in only first gear. Then I began gradually opening the screw. Now I am so confused at the results that I am getting... To top it off, I beleive I have adjusted this screw so many times it may be adjusting itself while I am driving, further complicating the results. If I had the initial screw setting I could put a small amount of loctite on it for final tweaks. I have disassembled the transmission 4 times now. The spring does not look distorted or damaged.

Any ideas?

[R/Cbum4life]

cant help you, I had that problem and just kept playing with it and finally got it to work... Gotspeed- it was on ebay... alumaxx was his name, BEWARE OF THE DEVIL!! lol

[Juice]

Originally posted by dmrcflyr2
I have a 2.5 that I had shifting beautifully. I decided to remove the reverse so I purchased the forward only gear and shaft. I also disconnected the front drive shaft. Now I cannot find the shift point. I figured that it would change do to less mass in the transmission. Does anyone know what the stock setting on the adjustment screw is? I have tried the following: 1, 1.5, 1.75, 2, and 2.5 out from fully closed, spring compressed. At this point I cannot tell what it sounds like in second gear. Initially after the forward only installation I believe that I was in second gear immediately, therefore I closed the screw all the way to see how the truck reacted in only first gear. Then I began gradually opening the screw. Now I am so confused at the results that I am getting... To top it off, I beleive I have adjusted this screw so many times it may be adjusting itself while I am driving, further complicating the results. If I had the initial screw setting I could put a small amount of loctite on it for final tweaks. I have disassembled the transmission 4 times now. The spring does not look distorted or damaged.

Any ideas?



I want to say its 5 turns out from the bottom is a good starting point!!

[Got Speed]

R/Cbum4life- Did you file a report to ebay? If so, this might help. Several other people gave this to me. I never tried it but you might want to take a look if he dosn't fix it. http://www.usps.com/postalinspectors/fraud/MailFraudComplaint.htm

[fuzzy2133]

5-6.5 turs is in the ball park however until you are very close the truck will seem to stall when it trys to shift, if the shift point is too soon.

[rccarman5]

Tmaxx Twitching?!?!?
i just bought a new tmaxx 2.5 and i dont know if this is normal or what. i broke in my engine and as i'm accelerating very very slow, it twitches, like it's hitting a gear. is this normal? i know how to tune but couldnt' get to that today so i'll leave that for tommrow (fine tuning that is).

also, does the spur gear always rotate? i mean, i've tried to lower the idle and richen the low speed to makign it stop move like my other car but it wont stop, i dont know why the car has a clutch at the flywheel if there is a cluth in the tranny. whats up with that. two clutches? so i quess that twitching is normal? let me know. thakns guys.

oh and i would really apprieciate it if someone IMed me if that would be a better choice for u guys. anyway i'll wait for a reply.


aim - radiocontrolhead

[rccarman5]

oh and what is the stock engine tuning turns. how many for high speed and low speed. thanks.

[tmaxxfast]

how much power does the 2.5 engine have. What engine besides the 2.5 gets up to 50,000 rpm's?

[fuzzy2133]

Originally posted by rccarman5
Tmaxx Twitching?!?!?
i just bought a new tmaxx 2.5 and i dont know if this is normal or what. i broke in my engine and as i'm accelerating very very slow, it twitches, like it's hitting a gear. is this normal? i know how to tune but couldnt' get to that today so i'll leave that for tommrow (fine tuning that is).

also, does the spur gear always rotate? i mean, i've tried to lower the idle and richen the low speed to makign it stop move like my other car but it wont stop, i dont know why the car has a clutch at the flywheel if there is a cluth in the tranny. whats up with that. two clutches? so i quess that twitching is normal? let me know. thakns guys.

oh and i would really apprieciate it if someone IMed me if that would be a better choice for u guys. anyway i'll wait for a reply.


aim - radiocontrolhead

the twitching is the forward or reverse engaging and then letting go give it a little more power and it should lock in all the way. the spur will spin even with the engine clutch disengaged. you need the clutch in the tranny so you can change into reverse. if you don't use reverse often then get a forward only kit and that will leave only the clutch on the engine and the spur will only move when the tires do.

[rccarman5]

thats wat i thouhgt, because i'm used to forward only kits, i have a xxx-nt so this got me a lil worried thanks

[Got Speed]

rccarman5- As fuzzy2133 said the "twitching" is the clutch in the tranny engaging and dissengaging. The spur will usually spin when the engine runs unless your idle is as low as it will go(which isn't necessary).

tmaxxfast- No engine turns 50K rpms. According to RCN the 2.5 was dynoed at 1.33bhp. If you can swing the money I'd recomend a Sirio .18. I've seen them run and they are really nice. A bit more power than the 2.5 and a few more RPMs. It is much easier to tune the power out of the Sirio too. The 2.5 is a pain to tune but if you get one that works right and don't mind adjusting it every 5 minutes then it is a good engine.

[tmaxxfast]

I did some reasearch and the epic .18 has 2 hp and 40,000 rpm, the sirio has 1.9 hp and 39,000 rpm, and the sirio af .15 has 1.7 hp and 39,500 rpm. So it seems to me the epic would be better than the sirio because it has more hp and 1000 more rpms. What do you think.

[Got Speed]

tmaxxfast- Manufacturers hp and rpm numbers mean nothing. They are completely useless. They don't dyno their engines. They use a mathmatical formula to estimate the hp and rpm figures. The only thing you can go by to accuratly judge engines would be a common dyno. Such as RCN's dyno tests. All the engines they test are on the same dyno, same pipe, same fuel, etc. I can garauntee you that the Sirio .15 dosn't have 1.7 hp. RCN dynoed the new Sirio Turbo .15 at 1.57 so the normal .15 can't have 1.7.
I would still suggest the Sirio .18. It has more power than the .15 and that is what matters in off-road(especially monster trucks). The epic .18 hasn't been tested by RCN that I know of so you can't compare it. I havn't heard or seen hardly anything of it either. Out of those three I still suggest the Sirio .18.

[tmaxxfast]

Whats the web site name for rcn

[heatseeker]

Anyone here use Robinson Racing's ring and pinion gear for their 2.5 T-Maxx? If so, is it worth the extra cost?

[the rock]

gents:

Im new to this forrum. I need the experts opinions. What do you think of the T-MAXX from Hardcore Racing???

www.racinghardcore.com

I just purchased one. I got NO aluminum arms, aluminum diff cases ect. I want to keep the weight down and flexiblity up. Im putting a ROSSI BLACK MAGIC .21 motor in it.

COMMENTS PLEASE!!!!!

thx

[the rock]

i ended up going with the MUTANT T-MAXX

???

[the rock]

HEATSEEKER

I bought the Robinson diff gears for my MUTANT 3.5

it will make the diff bullet proof

[outfitter540]

let us know how that mutant turns out.

[the rock]

OUTFITTER

Sure will.... i am REALLY excited to get it. I just ordered the aluminum bulkheads for it. I should get it Tuesday....

Ill send some pics and comments. I have a local track so I want to see how it does against my mugen mbx-5.... should be interesting...

[fuzzy2133]

the rock

I too have built a mutant and am interested in what you think of your final version. what engine are you planing to use?

[the rock]

FUZZY

i already bought a ROSSI BLACK MAGIC .21

http://harcohobbies.com/nitro-rc-engines.aspx

what motor do you have?

how do you like your mutant???

[fuzzy2133]

nice engine pick. I really dislike you now. :cool:

I picked a orion .26 and it has plenty of power to pull a 13cb and a 49spur combo.

at high speeds on the street it is a little too responsive. I used 2.5 upper a-arms on the front so I can have some caster.

[the rock]

thats a nice motor as well. :cool:

did you have the regular t-maxx then convert to the mutant? or went straight to the mutant? if you converted im interested in knowing the performance difference?

pick one from this scale:

1. not worth the money
2. little but good overall differance
3. great improvement and MIGHT do it all over again if needed
4. :eek: incredible :eek: and worth every cent!!!

I went straight into the mutant and my first MT experience... I have nothing to compare it to.

:confused:

[fuzzy2133]

I started with a .15 T-Maxx (stock for 2 months) that I changed to a .21, and I built the Mutant from scratch.

3.9 - the mutant is a good 5X better in every way compared to the t-maxx(+4.0). still expensive to convert or build (-0.1).

I do not know if I would do it again.

there is a big difference with a low CG, and front/rear brake controll.

[the rock]

thats great to hear..

i guess we could leave out 3 and skip right to 4. a project like this is not cheap.

thx

:cool:

[DanDan]

Maxxtraxx is back

maxxtraxxusa.com

[Got Speed]

Thanks for the link.

[morfracerX]

is there any other types of cvd's that can be used on the 2.5 maxx set up besides the MIP and the proline ones? if not anyone know where i can get a full set for under $90?

[Got Speed]

morfracerX- I don't know if XTM sells them seperatly but I know their .21 conversion comes with F/R/C CVDs. The MIPs will be much better though because they are rebuildable whereas XTM's are not. The CVDs that come with PL's suspension set are MIP CVDs. Unlimited Engineering also makes titanium CVDs but you can't get them under $90.



Does anybody have opinions on the O.S. .15 CV-RX? I am getting a new engine for my maxx but can't spend more than $130. I'd like to get a Sirio .18 but since they are $200 that's out of the question. Thanks

[heatseeker]

Rock, thanks for the info. Did replace all the gears or just the ring and pinion gears?

[dmrcflyr2]

Got Speed

I have an OS CV-R 15 in a touring car and it is great. I have not been able to compare it to the 2.5. I debated putting the OS into my T-maxx but I decided not too. I bought myself an early birthday present (4 months!) and just ordered the new Fantom 18. It is supposed to bolt right into the T-maxx EZ-start and all.

I'll post my experience with the Fantom once it is installed. My 2.5 has less than a gallon through it so I may run it more before I swap it out. I am just not impressed with the gearing in the T-maxx. It seems that second gear could provide more top end speed than it does. I have also removed all reverse from the transmission and disconnected the front drive shaft. The jury is still out on the front drive shaft removal. I may put that back in.

[Got Speed]

I was going to find out how much a fantom was but when I heard it was made for the EZ start I didn't because I have my 2.5 and EZ start on ebay. When I lost my rear wheel drive the thing handled very poorly and the tires just spun. So really it accelerated and handled worse. I just found the epic .18 for $145 too. I may just wait and save.

[the rock]

HEAT SINKER

well I bought the truck already built. But I got the entire Robinson diff upgrade gears and the spur I beleive. I get the track today... YEEEEAAAAHHHH....

Ill find out exactly what they put and ill get back to you...

rock

[Got Speed]

I'm looking at the wasp .18 now. Does anybody have any comments or info about it?

Thanks

[dmrcflyr2]

Well I just installed my new XTM 18 into my T-maxx. Very simple installation if you purchase the conversion kit. It includes a header, pipe, coupler and the new throttle linkage for the rotary carb. The instructions cover both the original maxx and the 2.5 version. I ran one tank through it today and will continue with the break-in this week. I also had ordered the Fantom 18 for the T-maxx. I think I will return that motor now. I like the idea of losing the weight of the ez-start. My XTM 18 in my nitro excellerator has been one of the easiest starting pull starts I have owned. Hopefully that will be the case with this one as well.

Here is a picture of the new installation.

[rustlerman81]

I got a 2.5 tmaxx about a month ago now im dirven lt a lot. but it kept over heaten so i bought a hardcore mutant max cooling head and richened the fuel mixture. now it doesnt over heat that bad or as fast as before. but when i run it, it dies at half tank like all the time. i dont think its that hot. but the guy at the hobby shop says i messes up th carb. would that have anything to do with it? would a OS 10e carb be a good upgrade? and it also only pulls whellies the first 2-3 minutes. please help!!!!

[rustlerman81]

does any body have the new era rollbar with brace and would the body be able to go on with that on?

[rc man37689]

can someone please show me some really cool but not expensive rims and tires about the size of tmaxx wheels? it not for a tmaxx
so nothing bigger thanx
o and if they can match this body (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCRA3&P=0)
that would be cool but they dont have to

thanx!!!!!!!

[Got Speed]

dmrcflyr2- Tell me how you like the power compared to the 2.5. I just bought a wasp .18 but I can't run it till I get the .18 pipe. It really looks small though. Even the carb has only a .12 size opening. If the thing is better than my 2.5 I'll be happy though.

[dmrcflyr2]

got speed

I only have 1 tank through the engine so far. I have had to work late the last few days and with the switch to standard time.... I plan on finishing the break-in this weekend. I will post when I have some more news.

[Got Speed]

Where did you get it? I'm really looking for a place to get an .18 pipe now.

Thanks

[dmrcflyr2]

got speed

I got them both, the engine and the T-maxx conversion kit from Hobby People.

[Got Speed]

Thanks I was able to find it on there. The XTM pipe is a big bore pipe like the Sirio isn't it? They had it for $30 on there so I'm going to buy it if it will work just as well.

[Got Speed]

Also, can you adjust where the ball on the carb slide is at? I see the Epic .18 is very similar to the Wasp. How would I get it so the ball cup could pop on? Also is there a better header than the Traxxas blue header for the original maxx? Thanks

[dmrcflyr2]

got speed,

if you order the T-maxx conversion kit from Hobby People you get the header, pipe and linkages for a rotary carb installation. For $39 that is hard to beat. Check out this link XTM Conversion kit (http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/148021.asp)

[Got Speed]

dmrcflyr2- Yeah, I saw that. That's a great deal at only $40. But the problem is that the Wasp is side exhuast, slide carb instead of rear exhuast, rotarty carb. :( I don't know maybe I'm missing something here but I pulled the sleeve out today to check it for burs and all and I noticed it was awful small for an .18. I compared it to an old .15 sleeve I have. They are the same size. How can it be an .18 then? I must be missing something but that would make it a .15 wouldn't it? Anyway I emailed Orion today about it. I'm about to just send it back and get the XTM engine and kit.

[fuzzy2133]

a .18 is only 0.03 inches more you may not be able to see a difference.

[Got Speed]

I would think I would be able to notice some difference though. Because I've got an old .12 sleeve too and you can notice a difference between it and the .15. I also see that whereas the Sirio .18 says 3.0 the Wasp .18 says 2.96. I know that is only 100th of a cubic centimeter but why wouldn't they just make it a 3.0?

Anyway, sorry for all the questions. I'm going to see it Orion emails me today. If not, I'm going to go get a side exhuast header and try my AE pipe.

[dmrcflyr2]

Well I have a few more tanks thru the new engine. I guess some people just cannot be pleased...ME. Granted the engine is not FULLY broken in but I am not too impressed with the performance. Now I know why there are so many .21 conversion kits out there. It does not seem and faster or have better acceleration than the 2.5. I even installed an 18 tooth clutch bell to try to get better acceleration. I thought 2 teeth would make a noticeable difference.

I still think the stock gearing in the transmission could be better. There just does not seem to be enough difference between 1st and second. On my touring cars you can see a NOTICEABLE increase in speed once second gear hits, but not with my T-Maxx. Perhaps the Fantom .18 will do better. I could not help but post a picture of my sweet hearts.

[Got Speed]

I hope I have better luck with my Wasp. I put the first break in tank through it last night. I can definatly tell there is much more exhuast being forced through the pipe. Hopefully it won't cause any problems. Most people I talked to said it won't. At first it would just keep heating up untill I shut it off. At first I thought it was the pipe. Then I thought it might be just because it was sitting still and there wan't any breeze. So I brought a fan out and the temp dropped 70 degrees from where it was. I don't know how it will run today when I put it on the ground.

[Got Speed]

I hope I have better luck with my Wasp

I guess hope is the key word there. I went to go break it in after running 3 tanks at various RPM ranges on the stand. I had to use a fan to keep it cool. I assumed that was because it was just sitting still. I went to run my 4th tank on the ground and the thing after about 30 seconds hit 246. So I shut if off and richened it alot. After letting it cool I started it up again. After about 1 minute it hit 246 again. So I richened it 1/2 turn! It still ran hot. In the end I ended up only running half a tank and the thing was nearly 2 turns richer than stock. It would only go about 10mph and take forever to get up to it. Yet it was running 250 then. I don't know what gives. I have a feeling it is the pipe. I emailed Orion several days ago with no response. I'm going to call them tommorow and they are going to hear it. I got this engine mainly to have an engine more reliable than the 2.5 and more power would be nice too. After selling my 2.5(that was problems from day one) I got this and hoped it would actually work. :mad:

Sorry for the long post. I'm going to get all my money back if this dosn't get fixed completely and fast. :mad:

[dmrcflyr2]

Got Speed.

When you break-in an engine you need to run the truck around. Do not let it just sit still, this will quickly over heat the engine. 246 degrees is not an excessive heat for an engine. According to my Fantom instructions, they recommend getting the engine up to operating temperature quickly and run it at various throttle settings including WOT(wide open throttle). Vary the throttle settings 5-10 seconds at a time. Then after each tank let the engine cool completely, ensure that the piston is NOT at TDC(Top Dead Center). The Fantom instructions go on to say that for their motors break-in temperature can range between 260-360 degrees. I was breaking in my Fantom 18 today and ran 2 tanks through it. I never let the temp get higher than 256.

It does not sound like there is anything wrong with your engine just your break-in procedures.

[Got Speed]

It was running fine sitting still. I had a fan on it so it still had airflow. I wasn't just letting it idle. I was varying the throttle up to half throttle. I started having problems when I put it down. I let the thing heat up to around 220 the first time and ran it like that for a while. Then I let it hit 230. Then I let it hit 240 and shut if off when it did. After that I let it hit 250 and shut if off when it did. In between each I let it cool to 140. Then on the 4th tank I put it down to start running it on the ground. This is when I couldn't run it cool. I shut it off at 246 because it just continued rising it wouldn't stop at a certain temperature. It was rising about 5 degrees for every 5 seconds I would be on the throttle. I did this same process with my mugen in my XXX-NT and it worked great. Has too much compression to turn over with your finger after a gallon and has tons of power. One of my friends from the track did the same to his truck and got nearly 8 gallons out of his this way. That is what leads me to believe it is the pipe. Also, becase Trinity/Sirio claims that the .18 big bore pipe is required for the Sirio .18. Some people have said it would cause overheating and power loss. I hope all it is, is the pipe. I just bought one off ebay so I will see how it works once I get it.

Thanks :)

[Maxispeed]

Hi everybody !

I have one question, I need the center driveshaft, I watch the dynamite center cv, but these work in the T-Maxx 2.5 or work in the old T-Maxx?

http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/Detail.aspx?ProductID=DYN7686

Thanks

[R/Cbum4life]

Got my maxx all back together and went to start it, and dang it all, it won't stay running. I messed with the needles and what not and no matter what I did I couldn't get it to run right. It starts up and stays running as long as I keep the ez start on... Im thinking it is the glowplug, although the ez start says it is still good. My question is, does that thing actually work accurately?? I hate the ez start so much, someday I'll get a pull start.

[fuzzy2133]

you should probably reset your needles to factory and go from there. one or both needles could be way too lean the idle could be too low start with the idle. if you have a extra glow plug give it a shot befor resetting the needles.

[the rock]

R/Cbum4life

This has happend to me... and factoy setting????????????

Its defenitly the best thing to do..... but .... the car kit or the motor documents most likely dont tell you what they are...

and your problem wont be fixed with a pull start.... if you had a pull start now your fingers would be bleeding and you would have thrown the car across the room... oh... and be sweating too...

I HAVE NO IDEA what the setting should be, I dont own this car or even have a motor thats similar....

FELLOW T-MAXX owners... What are your high speed and low speed settings? And whats your enviroment temp average???

or call: http://www.traxxas.com/support/trx_support.htm

....... if all else fails.... buy a new carb....

[the rock]

BUT .... try the glow plug first... and im sure i dont have to say this... but i will anyways... make sure your glow heater is healthy... and your carb is primed nicely and not flooded...

[jumpfreak]

Hi im new in the Forum. I have a O.S. CV-RX Converted T-Maxx, it speeds upp to 60km/h. Its about 38mph... Is it possible to get it faster than that? Wen i drive it on asphalt in topp spedd i kan see and feel the vibration and unstability in the steering. But on the grass its no problem. :D

[LazeR_88]

hello jumpfreak, welcome! hopefully my parts are here today!

[morfracerX]

need some help with maxx 2.5 parts
Ok i just got some parts in for my PL dom and came to find that i need more parts then i thought. It’s just small stuff but never the less i still need it.


Bare with me I never had a maxx so I don’t know the name of some (all) of this stuff

Some part that goes on the end of the cvd axle that mounts to the inside of the wheel to drive them, i think it would be something like the ones on the TC3 axles but i don’t know.

The inner bearing that goes on the inside of the knuckle

The hinge pin that goes on the outer side of the knuckle that goes threw the axle

The last part number i need is for the maxx wheel bolts

I need names and part a numbers if you guys have them

Thanks for the help guys!

[R/Cbum4life]

check out traxxas.com they have parts list including pictures, or else look at your manual! Hope this helps

[morfracerX]

i dont have a t-maxx so i have no manual, otherwise i would have looked there first and i went to traxxas's site before posting and couldnt find what i was looking for.

but i did get some help from an outside source but thanks anyway.

[Got Speed]

morfracerX- You can go to www.traxxas.com and get all the explolded views and parts lists.

Some part that goes on the end of the cvd axle that mounts to the inside of the wheel to drive them, i think it would be something like the ones on the TC3 axles but i don’t know.

If I am reading what you posted right you are talking about the pin that slids through the axel and the hex that fits over the pin and axel. Is this what you are talking about?

The inner bearing that goes on the inside of the knuckle

That would be a 6 x 12 bearing. Part num: 4614

The hinge pin that goes on the outer side of the knuckle that goes threw the axle

There are no hinge pins on the knuckles. Are you talking about the pivot balls or caps? The pivot balls are: 4933 and the caps are: 4934

The last part number i need is for the maxx wheel bolts

I would get the dubro nuts and put two on each wheels. Sorry I don't have any numbers for them. I don't have a Traxxas number but I am almost positive they are 4mm.

[Got Speed]

For Traxxas web site you have to go to the T-maxx section then there will be three buttons at the top. Click on the middle one. On the right hand side there are buttons for exploded views, parts list, etc.

[morfracerX]

Thanks for the post speed you are right on with your post. i found the stuff i needed and it all on the way.

[Got Speed]

No problem.

[Tim'sLosi]

Hi guys and gals! I need your help once again! I just bought a used S-Maxx and the carb is sticking. I would like to replace it with an OS carb but I need to know what number works well on the 2.5. I asked this when my friend had a similar problem and you guys had the answer. He got rid of his 2.5 in lieu of a 3.0 Sirio so I can't check his. I want a slide with the same or larger bore. Thanks!

[BlueBeast8-Port]

hello, well right now i have an e maxx. i am want to switch it so i have both an e and t maxx. I figure to just go buy the whole t maxx chassis, tranny, motor and junk. Therefore i will have an e and t maxx chassis and i can just change 8 bolts to whether i want electric or gas that day. When i do this i am curious what engine to get. I had a megatech m16 in my last t maxx and liked it. I am thinking on the lines of that for now. any suggestions? and will my e/t maxx plan work? I know i will also have to get t maxx center shafts cuz i use the cvds. thanks a lot

[Got Speed]

Tim'sLosi- Try taking the slide out by loosening the idle screw way up(be sure not to loose the spring on it). Take the whole slide out and spray it down with WD-40 or something like that. I'd wash the carb out with after run oil too.

BlueBeast8-Port- It sounds like it would work but you will have to take out more than 8 screws. You would have to take out the 8 bulkhead screws, the 8 tranny screws, the servo saver screw, the 2 servo saver post screws, when you want to switch to electric you would have to take the engine out to get to 2 of the rear bulkhead screws, and depending on whether you plan to use the same tranny or not you would have to disconect all the linkages. After buying all the things to be able to switch like that I think it wouldn't cost too much more to just buy a T-Maxx. I'm not sure but I think the center CVDs for the E-Maxx are the same for the T-Maxx. As for an engine it depends on how much money you have. I'm looking at getting a Sirio .18. There is a guy at my track who has one and it blows most everything else away(except the ported big block Novarossi, lol). But they are about $175. For a better less expensive engine I've heard good things about the .18 fantoms and .18 epics. I really don't like the 2.5 after having so many problems with it and seeing most everyone with a 2.5 have problems. A .15 CV-R will be less powerful but it is a reliable engine. I would suggest it over the M-16.

[R/Cbum4life]

bluebeast8- I have a very nice .15 for sale, you could throw a new engine in it too if you don't like the traxxas pro... Check it out and email me at sailinstud420@hotmail.com or I.M. me at sailinstud420. Here are some pics.... http://community.webshots.com/user/sailinstud420

I know this isn't a buy/sell/trade forum, im just tryin' to help a brotha out...

[PCC]

Originally posted by Got Speed
After buying all the things to be able to switch like that I think it wouldn't cost too much more to just buy a T-Maxx. I'm not sure but I think the center CVDs for the E-Maxx are the same for the T-Maxx. I agree that he is better off buying a T-Maxx instead of all the parts just for the center section.

The MIP center CVD's for the T and E Maxxes are different. The T-Maxx has a 5mm OD output shaft on the tranny and the E-Maxx's is 6mm. Also, I think the front CVD bone for the E-Maxx is longer than on the T due to the tranny being shorter overall on the E.

[Got Speed]

Yeah, I don't know what I was thining. I forgot that you had to get a whole tranny as well. I wouldn't go buy a T-Maxx if I were you. I would just build one from the ground up. I regret not doing that now.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello, well i still think i am going to do my plan, becuz i can get a full sportmaxx chassis with tanny, fuel tank, and all the other stuff for 60 and then i would jsut add my engine and go. Any suggestions on engines? Not too much power. need more than 35 mph at least but not too much. i want my tranny and diffs to hld up. thanks

[vtl1180ny]

Hey... I'm in the process of building an all aluminum T-Maxx and I'm wondering if anyone has used the Ofna wheels and tires... I want something a little bigger and wider than stock...

[jumpfreak]

Originally posted by JonA
Hello!

Have any you heard anything about how much power the 2,5 engine in the new Maxx delivers?

I can't get mine to do wheelies, but i have only been driving it on snow and dusty concrete floor so far. Not sure if it finds enough traction...

Jon A

Hi. I got a O.S. converted T-Maxx and sport traxx tiers. wen i drive it on asphalt or grass i weelies, and the o.s shoud be a little bit sleepy tha the new traxxas 2.5 Try with closing the low needle a bit.

[Got Speed]

BlueBeast8-Port- You could get something like an O.S. .15 CV-R.

vtl1180ny- I havn't seen a maxx with Ofna wheels/tires yet. Look at the Pro Line 40 series wheels/tires too.

[fuzzy2133]

vtl1180ny - if you are looking to run Ofna wheels you have to get a Ofna wheel adapter for the T-maxx. Ofna Part #81175 (http://www.ofna.com/tires-monster.html)

[Got Speed]

Tim'sLosi- I think it is the OS 10J carb that will fit.

vtl1180ny- I remember seeing some Ofna wheels/tires on a Maxx now. It was on one of those Trilordy movies. The truck constantly broke with those tires on it. If you plan to have alum. knuckles, arms, ti. pivot balls, ti turbuckles, ti hingpins, etc. it shouldn't be a problem.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello, How does the 2.5 perform with the sirio piston and sleeve upgrade? Will it perform jsut as a sirio 18. if the 2.5 is 40+MPH than what would i be with the sirio upgrade. thanks

[Tim'sLosi]

Thanks GS! I can't get the stock one to work even with cleaning and polishing it. I am going to send a new pro 15 in for trade on a 2.5 so I may just try the carb off the new motor. TT

[Got Speed]

BlueBeast8-Port- I don't have experience with it but I doubt it does alot of good. Probably a little but IMHO it isn't worth the difference in cost. I know it won't work as well as the Sirio .18 though.

Tim'sLosi- No problem. I had a problem with mine sometimes too. Even after I cleaned it at times. Usually I pulled the little rubber boot back and sprayed some WD-40 in there and worked the slide in and out a few times. Most of the time it worked but sometimes it would still stick a little.




I got my Sirio .18 today. I'm putting it in and plan to start breaking it in tommorow. For an engine designed for the Maxx I sure had to do alot of adjusting to get it in right. I had to flip the carb and have it at an angle, because I have the 2.5 linkage and it won't reach over the spur. I had to move the fuel inlet. I'm also going to have to take my rx box off or have to let the pipe hang out the side a little(which I really don't want to do). I have to mess with the linkages alot too. I might try the original maxx carb linkage. Hopefully that will help. Does anybody have ane comments, suggestions, etc? Thanks. I know a good Maxx driver at the track too with a Sirio .18. I'll see what he has to say as well.

[Got Speed]

Well. After asking around everyone seemed to say that there was no slide carb/pull start version. Only rotary/pull start and slide/EZ start. Well after I already started to break it in I found somebody who had a pull start/slide carb. Too late to send it back now though. It seems to be better than most rotary carbs I've had. Oh well, it's not like I got an inferior engine, lol.

It was a pain to get the thing installed in my maxx. I had to flip that carb over and now it is at a 40 degree angle to the block. I had to flip my throttle servo around and modify my brake linkage. I had to flip the fuel inlet around and I had to mess with the linkages an awful lot to make it work right. I finally got it set up so it worked perfectly. The only problem now is that the needles are a major pain to get to. The low speed is at an angle towards the pipe and pointing somewhat down so I have to reach the screwdriver down at an angle(I'm probably going to have a new hole in my window, lol). The high speed needle is only 3/4" from the spur gear so I have to go at an angle to avoid hitting the spur(not a big deal or really close but still kind of a pain). Other than the needles being at akward angles(since I got the rotary carb) everything works great. I started break-in which so far(5 tanks through it) has gone very smoothly. Even as smooth and cool as I am breaking it in at this thing rips. I can't wait to till I get 7 or 8 tanks through it and grab full throttle for a 2 or 3 seconds on the straightaway at my track.:D

[Got Speed]

Oh and one other thing. This engine must have a very strange power curve. As I slowly pull the throttle back(not changing how fast I pull it)it, obviously, accelerates, but about the time I reach half throttle it just all of the sudden accelerates much faster than what it was. lol I can see the rear just drop when it hits half throttle. It isn't shifting or anything it just all of the sudden sounds like it gained 10K RPM. lol

[r.c.dealer]

Get a throttle linkage from the old trx .15 maxx since your engine has a rotary carb, that should solve the problem of your carb being mounted at an awkward angle since the linkage is longer, it also clears the spur gear, and you'll be able to mount your servo back around.

[Got Speed]

Yeah I thought about that but I wasn't sure it would work so I didn't order one. I think I'll do it though next time I order something.

[Tim'sLosi]

Got my new 2.5 and a Blue alloy Traxxas engine mount for my S-Maxx! My LHS exchanged it for me!! Apparently he can turn the trade-in in for a new 2.5 and keep a little of the $105 for himself. Win-Win! I can't wait to fire this thing up and try it out for the 1st time! I am gonna keep the new engine in storage and just use the new carb on the original engine. That way I don't have to wait for break-in :-) . Next I will start to prep it for racing at the local flat track. TT

[Got Speed]

Tim'sLosi- Have fun with your new engine. What do you mean by local flat track? No jumps? :p

[Tim'sLosi]

Originally posted by Got Speed
Tim'sLosi- Have fun with your new engine. What do you mean by local flat track? No jumps? :p

Yep, Oval dirt track, no jumps. The regular off-road track at Pit Stop Hobbies in Mt Joy, PA is done for the year. I am just beginning to race so the oval is kinda nice. It gets me used to running next to(or in front of :) ) a bunch of guys.

[the rock]

heatseaker

I replaced all the internal parts to Robinson. Actually the LHS did not put them in... but I went ahead and did it anyways...

I got the mutant and its ready to rocknroll... im just waiting for the 12 tooth pinion... hoping to get it today.

I already drove it with a 14 tooth pinion... and all I could say is WOW. Could hit a little harder off the line, thats why I ordered the 12.. but mid and high speed right now are insane. It really is better than I thought. It handles like a dream.... HIGH speed turns I have to say it out handles my mbx-5. Once I get the 12 tooth im going straight to the track... then Ill get a real evaluation.

[Got Speed]

Tim'sLosi- Oh ok. LMK what kind of set-up you use. I'm curious as to what works well with a t-maxx on dirt oval. :)

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hey, i have the 2.5 engine with the sirio upgrade. How should i break it in? the dvd? thanks Also about what speeds should i expect from tis upgrade? thanks

[microrcdude]

I think you should. Maybe 3 or 4 miles an hour

[chrisAtmaxx]

yo wut are tha best tires 4 racin in loose dirt tht is sumtimes muddy. rite now im lookin at tha trinity paqmans b/c there cheap ($22 a pair pre mounted) and they look good 4 tht kind of dirt any suggestions welcome!







dont race wit me cuz is aint easy

[the rock]

race u for pinks cuz. ;)

[the rock]

.

[the rock]

.

[the rock]

.

[the rock]

..

[the rock]

have you driven a ford lately?

:cool:

[Tim'sLosi]

Originally posted by Got Speed
Tim'sLosi- Oh ok. LMK what kind of set-up you use. I'm curious as to what works well with a t-maxx on dirt oval. :)

For starters I am gonna try this (http://www.traxxas.com/support/pub/trx_pub_maxximum_sportmaxx.htm)

[fuzzy2133]

I only drive the F450 to and bigger fords.

the rock - I will race ya for fun and practice. how does your Mutant run?

[the rock]

fuzzy

im still waiting for my 12 tooth pinion... it has a 14 right now... it can hit much harder on the bottom... mid range and high its pretty insane.... it turns on a dime and brakes very very well. I can say this... I have a Mugen MBX5... and I can take harder and faster turns in this.... im talking about doing full speed, pitching it sideways at a 90 degree turn in the street...with loose dirt.

Im waiting for my pinion than I will take it to the track. But for the little ive driven it... I know its going to tear it up.

cant wait....

Ill let you know how it does on the track.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hey, is that a novarossi engine in your Maxx? That truck looks killer! I know a guy at my LHS that has a mutant maxx and that thing rips! I just give you props for making such a sweet truck. For my sirio upgraded 2.5 engine, should i break it in by DVD? Just making sure. Does anyone have a clue when proline's spinner kit comes out? I have 40 series bowties on 40 mambos and am looking forward to add some spinners and an escalade ext body for a dub look. I also have one more question about my engine. What fuel should i run. In my last t maxx i ran 20% top fuel through a m16. I am thinking about changing. I have a huge selection to choose from at the LHS. Top fuel, blue thunder (Only heard bad of), o'donnal, sidewinder, monster. Thanks a lot for all your help. Post some pics of your trucks guys!

[flsurf420]

Need help fast and bad. Email me at flsurf420@aol.com or here cuz i dont check here often. Well ok i had this problem months ago and that is why i stopped using my tmaxx. well today i just got it started again, but when the radio is on and i give it gas when it reaches full or ever half throttle it gets erractic and tries to take off. But it will stop when i hit the brakes but its like a little delayed. I checked one set of wires to the throttle and they were cut alittle when smushed between the cover and receiver. i cut them and soldered them together. but it still does it. the wires dont look like they are touching. is there anything else i should check before i make a morning run to the hobby shop. thanx

[Tim'sLosi]

Originally posted by flsurf420
Need help fast and bad. Email me at flsurf420@aol.com or here cuz i dont check here often. Well ok i had this problem months ago and that is why i stopped using my tmaxx. well today i just got it started again, but when the radio is on and i give it gas when it reaches full or ever half throttle it gets erractic and tries to take off. But it will stop when i hit the brakes but its like a little delayed. I checked one set of wires to the throttle and they were cut alittle when smushed between the cover and receiver. i cut them and soldered them together. but it still does it. the wires dont look like they are touching. is there anything else i should check before i make a morning run to the hobby shop. thanx

USUALLY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING:

Loose metal parts rubbing together or rattling
Bad receiver crystal(cracked inside)
Broken antenna wire
Rec or trans batteries low
Bad throttle servo

[Got Speed]

BlueBeast8-Port- The engine break in on the DVD is a good way to break engines in. I'd still break it in that way. Everybody has an opinion on fuel. Personally I really like Odonnell and Trinity Platinum both 20%. Trinity Platinum has a bit less oil than Odonnell but some people will argue that if the oil is even a little better quality it can easily make up for the percentage of oil. If I remember correctly Trinity has 8% and Odonnell has 12%.


My Sirio .18 is awesome. It is insane. It is has like the power of a sport .21. I got it as high as 246 the other day(didn't really mean to) but it ran great for me around 230. It would still run well at 210 but it started to really put out some serious power at 230. As long as I had the traction I could nail the gas while moving and flip all the way over. It only took the it about 20ft. to shift to second gear(adjusted as it was for the 2.5). It wasn't shifting too soon either. Almost every time it shifted into second it would hit so hard it would lift the front wheels. A+ engine. I'm glad I got it.

[the rock]

blue,

thanks... and yes its a Rossi Black Magic .21, insane power... nearly 3hp!!!

it drives like a dream... the low center gravity really helps... wheelies are imposible, its just gone.

its basically a buggy on steroids. :eek:

[Got Speed]

chrisAtmaxx- I was thinking about running those same tires myself but a guy at the track said he used them they didn't last very long. The bowties will cost you more but IMHO they are a better choice. If it is muddy enough to be throwing mud roosts you might want to try the mulchers.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hey, i need to no if the steering kits on the t and e maxx r the same. COULD SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME? THANKS

[Tim'sLosi]

Originally posted by BlueBeast8-Port
Hey, i need to no if the steering kits on the t and e maxx r the same. COULD SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME? THANKS

Why don't you look at the parts listings on Traxxas.com. Compare the two.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello, well i am almost finished with my project but i have one problem again. sorry guys. the steering once again. Ok the blue poles that connect from the skid plate to the chassis. You no how at the skid plate they go through the black piece (bellcrank i wanna say?) The piece with the white brushing on top and bottom. Well the "bellcranks" aren't staying at the bottom to the skid plate. The brushings are coming out of them and the bellcrank is moving up the pole past the larger part of the bottom of the pole? What am i doing and how do i keep them in the right place. Could comeone please help me go over this? zgreatly appriciated. Thanks ahead.

[r.c.dealer]

Theres supposed to be a black plastic spacer on each steering post between the chassis and the bellcrank. It keeps the bellcrancks in place on the posts. The section of the steering post that has the larger diameter mounts to the skid plate not the chassis. It sounds as if you mounted them upside down, at least from what I could tranlate :p

The emaxx on the other hand has those black plastic spacers molded into the plastic chassis.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello, ok thats where i went wrong! I am converting my e maxxc to a t maxx so the spacers are left on the e-maxx. Thanks a lot. Ill have to go and pick up some spacers. Thanks again.

[Neomarine]

I need a lot of help on this.

Very soon i will be buying the xtm .21 conversion kit for my maxx and I am looking at engines now to complete it, so far i saw the o.s. rg-x and the xtm 24.7. I think it what it was called. I want a pullstart but what type of shaft should i get. I have no problem cutting a little off if that's needed. Other enigines are not out of the question but anything above $200 (U.S.) i would rather not get. Another thing besides glowplugs what else would i need to get the new engine going in the truck. It comes with a pipe and air cleaner but is there anything i am forgetting?

Thnx in advance

-neomarine

[rc10gtroller]

I have the sirio 18 also and have been haing some probs. with the idle. After driving it around and i put on the brakes and it slows down to an idle the idle raises real high then slows down to normal. It alwasy does that. I thoguht it was an air lak so i sealed up the carb and the backplate. I havent run it yet with it sealed but what else could be causing it to idle like that?

[Maxxcrazy]

Originally posted by Neomarine
I need a lot of help on this.

Very soon i will be buying the xtm .21 conversion kit for my maxx and I am looking at engines now to complete it, so far i saw the o.s. rg-x and the xtm 24.7. I think it what it was called. I want a pullstart but what type of shaft should i get. I have no problem cutting a little off if that's needed. Other enigines are not out of the question but anything above $200 (U.S.) i would rather not get. Another thing besides glowplugs what else would i need to get the new engine going in the truck. It comes with a pipe and air cleaner but is there anything i am forgetting?

Thnx in advance

-neomarine

Consider the Wasp .26. Pilot shaft is whats best.

[the rock]

rc10

could it be your servo acting up?

[the rock]

rc10

also make sure that when you let go of the gas... that the throttle arm returns the carb to idle position nicely and strong.... maybe it takes it some effort to return to idle and it stays reved for a few seconds

[badandy]

T-Maxx 2.5

How do you reach the low speed needle to be able to adjust it?

[Got Speed]

Neomarine- Is your drivetrain strong enough(like metal or UE nylong tranny, diffs, driveshafts). A sport .21 is hard on the drivetrain but a high power .21 can tear it apart. For a good strong engine that won't take you past $200 I'd suggest the Picco .26 maybe the Wasp .26(havn't heard anything about it yet really). If for some reason you want a .21 nothing bigger then I'd suggest the Hyper .21 8 port.

rc10gtroller- When you let go of the throttle after going WOT does the engine take several seconds to idle down? Sounding maybe a little higher pitched or almost "pingy". If so I'd say you should richen your low speed needle. If when you come to a stop your engines idle slowly lowers and lowers untill it stalls or dosn't get up and go when you hit the throttle? If so then your low speed is probably too rich. It could be something else but it sounds like a lean low end to me.

badandy- I assume you are talking about the 2.5 engine? If so, You just have to get a screwdriver at an angle around the fuel tank for the low speed.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Neomarine, hello i would suggest to beef up your tranny and diffs (rear especially) first before utting a big block in a t maxx. A t maxx is made for a small block engine so its gears dont hold up very well under big blocks. I had the xtm .21 conversion in my old t maxx w/ the hyper .21 8-port. First of all i had to modify it a ton to fit and then when i got it going my diffs would blow or tranny gears. To put a .21 big block power house in your t maxx be prepared to spend a lot of money beefing up such as $300 for diffs and about $200 for tranny. I will say that the stock gearing should hold up with a smaller .21 such as maybe the ofna 4-port but why bother with all the hassel in converting for such small power. Get the sirio .18, but if you have the extra $500 then go for it no doubt. I just had problems and wanted to help a brother out. I now have gone back to small block.

[flyfishingbear]

I gotta agree, when I went to a 247 it twisted the steel output shaft right off the tranny. I rebuilt it in a hardcore case, and bearings, used OTB gears, and then MIP cvds. On my mutant maxx I had to go to 1/8 scale stuff to handle the Ofna pico .26, diff in center and dual disk brakes, too much for a tranny to handle in 1/10 scale clutch or drivetrain.

[Got Speed]

Neomarine- You didn't say if you beefed up your drive train. But like everyone else has said it is necesary. At least get MIP center CVDs, stronger diffs(8th scale diffs are best but not nescesary), an a good tranny such as the UE nylon foc.

[1stPlace]

I ordered the Hardcore all Ti and Alum. T MAX with the .21 full chassis I have on OFNA hyper 21 around here somewhere I will use that. I response to the previous few posts, if I use Hardcores steel drive shaft, Robinsons Racing steel diff set and MIP everyone else will this setup be OK?

[the rock]

i have a mutant tmaxx... and im running Robinson gears on the entire trannys.... dont know if its overkill... but I have a Rossi Black Magic motor

[SixVi6-Camaro]

your running RRP gears in the tranny of an HCR mutant? What gearing are you runnin on it?

[the rock]

im running a 55 spur and a 12 bell gear

[R/Cbum4life]

stupid 2.5 traxxas engine, anyone else heard of the piston skirt blowing apart where the connecting rod would hit it if it could? This is the second time now that is has happened to me, the first time traxxas covered it under warranty, but now nearly a year later, I don't htink they are going to be so generous. I haven't run this truck at all since new becuase it blew up after break in the first time, i sent it in got it rebuilt, broke it in, let it sit all summer and when it came time to start playing again this happens again!!!! I am so angry.... Anyone else heard of this, I have heard lots of horror storys bout the first generation 2.5's?

[the rock]

r/cbum

maybe since your leaving the motor for so long it gums up inside... making the motor hard to turn and forcing parts therefore breaking.

clear the motor from all nitro when its put away... and add some afterrun oil in it...

[R/Cbum4life]

I put some after run oil in it for the summer... Even if I didn't the piston skirt shouldn't be breaking where it is, it seems as if the connecting rod is hitting it.

[the rock]

:confused:

[Tim'sLosi]

Post this on the Traxxas forum and get an answer from Traxxas guys. THey have great customer service. Tim

[Got Speed]

R/Cbum4life- Talk to Traxxas again like Tim'sLosi said. They do have great customer support. I had a lot of problems with my 2.5 too. I ended up selling it though because after sending it in to Traxxas it still didn't run right.

[R/Cbum4life]

Got Speed- what exactly happened to your engine? What did they do when you sent it in, just rebuild it?? I am going to try to demand a new engine, I told em don't send it back to me until they call me. If they just rebuild it again i am going to tell them to break it in and run it for a few tanks, SEE HOW THEY LIKE IT! I love traxxas stuff and I am really dissapointed with this whole ordeal. I am sure they will get it taken care of though the customer service is the stuff.

[Got Speed]

I sent it in and they said there was a problem with the sleeve. I told them it acted like an air leak and I sealed up the carb. They put a new piston, sleeve, and glow plug in so I thought maybe it wan't an air leak. I know someone else on these boards said he found a hairline crack in his sleeve. When I got it back from them it worked qutie a bit better(lol it would actually run). This time i bought a better cooling head for it too. Since it was overheating badly before. After break in I got it to work great twice but otherwise it wouldn't hardly run unless I got it to at least 250 even with the cooling head. It had all the symtoms of being too lean though. If I richened it even a little it would run very poorly. It wouldn't shift into second gear, no power, it would take it several seconds to even get up past 10mph. I had enough and didn't feel like going through Traxxas again even though they were great about helping me. So I sold the 2.5 and got a Wasp .18. I put 3 tanks through it and it was running pretty good but overheated way too much. I think I needed an .18 pipe for it instead of a .12-.15 pipe. I didn't want to mess around and see if it would work and I wish I would have gotten the Sirio .18 since this wasn't a proven engine. I didn't want to prove how good or bad it was so I just sold it and bought the Sirio .18. I ended up loosing about $40 through all that but it was worth it. I love my Sirio .18 now. It runs great. Very strong engine.

[R/Cbum4life]

how much were you able to sell the 2.5 for? What does a new siro .18 cost??

[Got Speed]

I was able to sell my 2.5 with the EZ start and all for $130. I bought a Sirio .18 for $175. :eek: Then I bought the big bore pipe for $30. Spendy but IMO worth it.

[wavejake]

Hey,

Is this part of the servo horn needed? If I cut it off will I ever need it?

Thanks.

[wavejake]

Hey,

Is this part of the servo horn needed? If I cut it off will I ever need it?

Thanks.

[Got Speed]

There is no reason to cut it off. I just left mine on. If you ever need it you have it. But if for some reason you still want to cut it off your right about what part of it you need.

[walfridsson]

Hi ppl , i just decided to buy me a t-maxx 2.5 or is theire any new version out?, this will be my first car EVER and im really new to this , i whant this car to be fast werry fast and good stuff on it , any idea on what to order if i shuld add any new parts to it? hope you understand , my english aint the best as you can se :)

[Got Speed]

I would suggest upgrading it when you break something or as you see needed. One thing you probably won't break will be center chassis braces but alum. ones make the chassis much stiffer. Look on e bay for great prices on stuff like that.

[walfridsson]

ok , thnx

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello all, merry christmas! Well i was wondering on which servo to get. I want one that will fit my category in the best price range or the best overall. For steering i have 40 series bowties to turn and i need it to be waterproof. Also for throttle i need waterproof and a built in fail safe there would be nice. Nothing too complicated. i know i will be spendin some dough here but i want to get the best servo for the money in there categories. Oh also i have the Jr xs3 system so any servo capable with that. thanks I also got the sirio big bore pipe for x-mas today and i ran it and man that thing is awesome. It sounds so awesome and does really perform!

[Got Speed]

BlueBeast8-Port- For steering I would suggest an Airtronics 94358. No servo comes waterproof. They are somewhat water resistant but if you plan to go in snow and stuff you should take the case apart and seal it with silicone and then put the servo in a balloon. For throttle I would still suggest a metal gear servo that is fairly fast and fairly strong. There are lots of servos that would make a good throttle/brake servo. In my gas truck I've got a hitec 625MG servo. Plenty of servo for throttle brake. Obviously speed is more important. You can get a fail safe for about $25.

[Quinton]

Hey all

I've got 2 Tmaxx's that I got used and for the most part I haven't had too many problems with them. One of them was my 1st nitro and then I got a TC3 (for something totally different) and then picked up another T. Quite a few ppl say the 2.5 has a lot of probs, but compared to my TC3 they are pretty easy to take care of once I learned how to tune a nitro.

What are your experiences?
Thanks

[Tim'sLosi]

Originally posted by Quinton
Hey all

I've got 2 Tmaxx's that I got used and for the most part I haven't had too many problems with them. One of them was my 1st nitro and then I got a TC3 (for something totally different) and then picked up another T. Quite a few ppl say the 2.5 has a lot of probs, but compared to my TC3 they are pretty easy to take care of once I learned how to tune a nitro.

What are your experiences?
Thanks

Seems to me to be a fluke...One guy will have a load of trouble and the next no probs. It isn't always skills either. I helped my neighbor with his during break-in and etc...always was a basket case. He had to send his engine in for a rebuild right after break-in under warranty, lost compression. He went through several carbs. He finally traded it for a 2.5 4-tec, no trouble now. I have a S-maxx with a new 2.5 that I have had no probs with. I think as fast as they are pumping these things out, there is bound to be a small % with defects...and those are the large % that go on forums and complain. If all satisfied 2.5 owners posted here it would look totally different. TT

[Got Speed]

I had one of the bad ones myself and had a lot of trouble with it for a long time. I eventually just sold it. But I know there are just as many people that are happy with their 2.5s and not. I think Traxxas was just having some quality control issues. They said they stopped making parts for a while to put all their efforts into making 2.5s. Traxxas claims to be making their carbs better quality than before so there should not be so many problems.

[bigvalveturbo]

i am looking to convert to a ofna .26 can any one tell give me a list of parts i will need or a place i can go to find that list?(if i am posting in the wrong forum please redirect me)

[the rock]

MAJOR MODIFICATIONS!!!

www.racinghardcore.com

I have a .21 conversion from Hardcore. Its absolutly insane. I almost have the same times with my mutant tmaxx as my mbx5 buggy around our track...

[walfridsson]

thats an engine i whanna have =) , FAST FAST FAST , i looooove speeed

[R/Cbum4life]

I've been away for a few weeks now and last time I posted I complained about all of my problems with my 2.5. For some odd reason I kept having the piston skirts deteriorate and spread little metal flakes all throughout my engine, what a mess that was. I sent it in and they rebuilt it with a new piston and sleeve, still leaving my bearings and engine block full of metal shavings! I was so angry. Anways I broke it in, got about 2 or 3 tanks through it, and the problem repeated itself!!! I sent my engine in again and just received a brand spankin' new 2.5! I got a pull start extra air filter, and got rid of my other carb that was all screwed up. I sure hope this next 2.5 isn't a lemon.... Anyone else out there with horror stories I'd appreciate you letting us know what went wrong. Don't just say my engine wouldn't run. I plan to make another call to traxxas and let them know my comments and concerns, your backup could help. I think they know of some problems but refuse to reveal them. From what I have gathered most of the problems were with the very first 2.5's, is this true?

[the rock]

why dont you just change out that crappy motor with something realiable and be done with all your headachs

[Got Speed]

R/Cbum4life- Good luck with the new engine. From what I've seen and heard the 2.5s that came out in the first 6 months or so were the ones riddled with problems. I havn't heard of many people with problems with their new 2.5s. I've seen several new guys get 2.5s recently and have had them run like a charm.

[R/Cbum4life]

Hey good news, I went to break in my 2.5 today (the snow cleared off the street finally!), got through three tanks, thought i was doing well and then all of a sudden it starts grindin' and making noise, turns out i stripped a gear inside of the gearbox somehow and now i can't get a new part for about a week, I am angry now! but at least the engine is running well!!!! Its been kinda dead round here, where is everyone going??

[Quinton]

We're in the nitro forum

[xxh0lywarsxx]

just got an xtm 24/7 converted tmaxx....what to get for it soo it can safely handle the power? what gearing should i use for good speed on offroad? also does anyone know any sites solely dedicated to the tmaxx?

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Maxxtraxxusa.com

[rcpilot_971]

I have a 2.5 T maxx I can't get it to run right start it up runs for a bout 2 or three min then quits I have adjusted the the low and the high speed needles dose the same thing runs about 265 - 285 f
I have been running airplane motors for 15 years so I know a little bit about motors I have richend it up to the point where it don't no have much power won't wheele and it still quits could it need a new pistion it has less then 1-1/2 gallons ran through it if it need a new pistion should I just put a different motor in it

Thanks Tim

[Quinton]

Sounds like you know what you are doing. I have 2 T's and both of them have had problems that track back to the carbs. I would look there for air/fuel leaks. Ask your question under Nitro forum or traxxas dot com and you should find your problem

[rcpilot_971]

Ok Thanks will do

[R/Cbum4life]

Is this one of the first 2.5 engines or did you just buy it recently. As many of you know I had many problems with mine and just got a new engine from traxxas after tons of headaches! I realize you may know more than I do about nitro's but try a couple of these things first. Does your dustboot on your carb have a hole in it? It could be very small but still be causing problems, like an airleak. Are your glowplugs getting extremely dirty and are you seeing alot of black in your engine? I had a piston skirt fall part twice on me with my 2.5. Are the carb seals all good? You have a leak around your cooling head, like a messed up shim? Take your engine apart and see if you can see any big problems with the internal parts. I don't know what else to reccomend but try checking that first. Traxxas will take care of you if you keep on 'em.

[rcpilot_971]

I do have on of the first ones I will check all this out Im the type of person that if I can't get something to work right after messing with it for a time I will just replace it with a new one Im looking at the sirio 18 right now

Thanks Tim

[Quinton]

One of the main problems with the earlier ones is the carb. The lower seal that sits in the engine gets cut when you tighten it down. It needs to be replaced everytime you pull the carb off.

But, if you are tired off messing with it I may buy it from you for the right price.

[Genesis_Guy]

does any body know the correct throttle trim for a T Maxx?!
just got it and its stalling on me like crazy!
Any suggestions?:confused: :confused: :rolleyes: :p

[Quinton]

there is no correct location. its all relative to other settings.

i would ask a more specific question on the Nitro Forum. probably get better replies.

[howielong]

Finally got my maxx running and to tell you people. i love it. My friend was out and when i shut it off to talk to him. the first words he said is my ears hurt. I love it. but any way. just saying that i got to run it before i got cold. so peace.

[Got Speed]

LOL I sold my T-Maxx again and got another 1/8th buggy. Hopefully I can stick with it this time. hehe :p

[dog8spam]

How are the wheels for the T Maxx attached to the axle how big are they?

[howielong]

What do you mean Dog8spam. From tip of my fingers to the end of my palm is how big the wheels and tires are.

[Got Speed]

dog8spam- The axels have a hole in them which a pin slides through that a hex slides on. The wheel mounts on the hex(with the matching hex in the wheel). Sorry I don't remember the size of the wheels.

[dog8spam]

How big are the hexs?

[Got Speed]

I don't know for sure, since I sold my T-Maxx now but they are smaller than 1/8th buggy hexes. Probably 3/4" or so.

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Maxx hexes are 14mm
most 1/8 buggy hexes are 17mm
most 1/10 trucks and TC's are 12mm

[chevy_94]

I am getting a t-maxx and what do you have to do like glue tires etc. and later after on i am putting a cnc'd frame and front and rear bumpers and front and rear a-arms and hubs and shock towers the whole nine yards.

[Got Speed]

Yes you have to glue the tires, cut out the air holes in the body, charge the ez start batterys, and you should lock tite the engine mount screws.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by rcpilot_971
I do have on of the first ones I will check all this out Im the type of person that if I can't get something to work right after messing with it for a time I will just replace it with a new one Im looking at the sirio 18 right now

Thanks Tim

im having the same problem as you with 2.5.i already replaced the piston/sleeve,still did the same thing.ive only had the truck 2 weeks.i replaced the 2.5 with the sirio .18 and still have the same problem except the sirio will stay running for a bit.i replaced the tank and lines,sealed everything including where the exhaust header meets the block with red hightemp silicone and it still does the same thing

[Got Speed]

Are you sure you have it tuned alright? Do you have a temp gun? What is the weather like? What kind of fuel are you running.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by Got Speed
Are you sure you have it tuned alright? Do you have a temp gun? What is the weather like? What kind of fuel are you running.

i dont have a temp gun.i have even ran it with the high speed needle at 5 turns out,itll run good for a minute then run like it should at 5 turns and then act like its running out of fuel.im running a brand new gallon of blue thunder 20% race formula.ive been in the hobby for 3 years and have 3 engines that run so good they are sick.i have a dominator that does wheelies even with a center dif.itll spin all 4 maxx mulchers for about 4 feet before taking off like a bat outta hell.a NTC3 that spins all 4 wheels on take off and is the fastest car at the track and an rc10gt that keeps up with 1/8 scale buggies.i know what im doing but these 2 engines are being a pain,or i got 2 lemons

[ritchies rc10gt]

think i found the problem,both engines suck alot of air threw the front bearing.i found this by turning the crank untill the intake port was closed,sucked on the carb and heard it sucking so i put some dish soap on the bearing and blew through the carb and it had alot of bubbles forming were the rubber seal meets the inner race of the bearing on both engines.i checked the other engines i have and non of them have this problem.does this sound like a problem?if i could get a couple people to check thier engine like this and see if the trouble engines do this and the good ones dont than we know what the problems are.any way to seal the front bearing without replacing it?

[Got Speed]

Have Traxxas and Trinity replace the bearings in them both. I don't think there is any way to seal them. I would call them up and have them send you new ones assuming you bought them new.

[rcdude2711]

How much torque does the stock steering servo on the 2.5 have?
Oh yeah also, all the chrome on the rear left wheel (the one directly behind the pipe) has stripped off almost completely exposing the bear plastic underneath. This isnt much of a problem with the stock wheels but i just ordered a set of RPM blue clawz which would look pretty weird if one wheel was white and the others blue and therefore was just wondering if a) anyone else has had this problem or if its just the fuel im using???? and b) if anyone knows a way to stop this from happening with my clawz, or if it even happens at all?????
Thanx:)

[R/Cbum4life]

I have never heard of this happening, but i was just thinking if you are real worried bout it maybe you could get some clearcoat to stick to the rims or something.... just a thought.

[Quizzy_Maxx]

i have a t-maxx and a nitro rustler from traxxas. the t-maxx is brand new, therefore haven't run it yet( am in ND. there is still snow :( ) however my rustler had the same problems with the wheels the you are talking about. did it happen when you were cleaning them? and if so did you use any type of cleaner?

[Quizzy_Maxx]

i just thought about something, i think it has something to do with the chemicals in the fuel. if i remember right, it was the rim closest to the exhaust on my rustler that did that when i cleaned it off and there was a little fuel residue on it.


that idea about a clear coat sounds good tho, maybe a clear spray enamel or something along those lines.

[R/Cbum4life]

just thinking, before you clear coat em, I'd try it on the back or something, its possible that might attack the chrome or maybe even the plastic, I do not want to be held responsible for that... Maybe rpm will warranty it, shoot em an email tell them you've hardly rumn em and the chrome is already falling off and that you are very dissapointed, its worth a try!!!

[rcdude2711]

Thanx guys, im pretty sure its the fuel im using cause living out here in England my LHS only stocks one brand of fuel which im pretty sure none of you guys have even heard of, Model Technics?, Nah didnt think so. Also when i originally bought my maxx in the US (prices over here are equal to if not higher than the dollar equivelent so if u pay $400 for something in the US over here it will be 400 quid ($750)) for the first 8 tanks i used Blue Thunder and had no such problem until i brought it to England. Anyway ill probably try experimenting with the clearcoat on the stockers and see what happens, or someone else suggested i get one of those exhaust diverter things to hopefully completely solve my problem.:D

[Quizzy_Maxx]

can't say i've ever heard of Model Technics fuel. but the blue thunder i have. myself i run Traxxas' Top Fuel and Trinity's Monster horsepower fuel, both 20%. both have seemed to work fine for me. had o'donnel before. ran ok, but since it was clear, had trouble seeing when it got to the carb. flooded it out a couple of times. anyways. lookin forward to the snow melting so i can get out and do some r/c-ing

[rcdude2711]

Dont have the same problem with snow out here in England, on av. we get about two days of snow a year. So i pretty much can drive year round, mind you it can get real cold out here, i think when i bought my Maxx over from the US the HSN was a full 2 turns to lean. It does rain a hell of alot also, that can cause some problems. Anyway thanx for all ur help, think i got the problem sorted now.:D

[Quizzy_Maxx]

Dont have the same problem with snow out here in England, on av. we get about two days of snow a year. So i pretty much can drive year round, mind you it can get real cold out here, i think when i bought my Maxx over from the US the HSN was a full 2 turns to lean. It does rain a hell of alot also, that can cause some problems. Anyway thanx for all ur help, think i got the problem sorted now.

Not a problem RCDUDE. Thanx for rubbing it in about the snow ha ha;) .

Question for anyone out there, looking for the compression specs on the TRX 2.5 from Traxxas. or the Velocity .15 from Duratrax. if anyone knows please let me know, thanx.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

hey guys,

my friend is having prob's with his t-maxxes 2 speed tranny, he says it isn't shifting at all, he has adjusted it every which way, and he has leaned out the engine as much as he can, and he says it still won't shift....anything else that might cause this kinda problem?

[Quizzy_Maxx]

HPI fan, has he checked the clutches at all? could be something in the slipper clutch. i guess i'd take the tranny apart and make sure each part is working, make sure both gear sets are meshing properly and that the clutch hasn't locked up somehow. i had a problem with my duratrax streetforce where every time i'd yank the pull start all four wheels would try to turn. also i couldn't push the car backwards. turns out my clutch shoes had melted and locked up the whole clutch. wasn't pretty. but some new clutch shoes fixed that prob. so my advise is check to be sure both gears are operating correctly.

[Got Speed]

Also make sure he didn't strip the adjusment screw for the 2 speed and then set it back to the stock settings.

[Quizzy_Maxx]

good call gotspeed. another thing, make sure hes adjusting the right screw. there are two screws on the clutch. one adjusts when it shifts, and the other is what holds the tranny on the shaft.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

he told me he has taken the 2spd unit apart numerous times, but i don't recall him telling me about the clutch, that is most likely the answer, something is wrong with the clutch...thanks for your help guys, and enjoy your tmaxxes :D

[dudenar]

:D :D :D

“Big Blue” has been a project of mine since I got my first Tmaxx 2.5 kit last year.
Most of the stock parts have been upgraded with hardened steal, aircraft grade
aluminum, and other exotics. Bullet proof and fast, this thing climbs up mountains
and jumps like a freak. Aftermarket parts are from but not limited to the following vendors…


Unlimited Engineering, HCR, Omega, Robinson Racing, RPM CVD’s, MIP, Lunsford, Pro-Line,
HiTec, Ofna, and the kitchen sink. I’m not the greatest mechanic so I’ve had to use many
suggestions, pictures and ideas from this forum, magazines, and my local hobby shops to
build this beast. Thank you to all the RC builders out there keeping the Tmaxx running
over the competition.

Kind regards,

Morgan
From Brooklyn

http://www.roseba.com/mbarrett/img/bronco_frontleft.JPG
http://www.roseba.com/mbarrett/img/bronco_rightside.JPG
http://www.roseba.com/mbarrett/img/bronco_frontleft.JPG
http://www.roseba.com/mbarrett/img/bronco_rear_open.JPG
http://www.roseba.com/mbarrett/img/bronco_open_right_side.JPG
http://www.roseba.com/mbarrett/img/bronco_trans_open.JPG
http://www.roseba.com/mbarrett/img/bronco_open_rear_side_low.JPG
http://www.roseba.com/mbarrett/img/bronco_open_front.JPG
:rolleyes:

[Quinton]

That's pretty cool, except the big hole on the driver side of the body. :(

[RSBatCRH06]

nice ride but why is the servo infront of the gas tank?

[Quizzy_Maxx]

Nice truck. looks like you put a lot of time into it (not to mention $$$$$, been there) myself, i'm not a big fan of blue, namely the plastic. Im in the process of doing my t maxx right now. so far i got the rear bulkhead, rear diff, front, rear, and center skid plates, and center braces in silver from hardcore racing. i got a duratrax silver steering servo gaurd, and a set of silver treaded shocks from hot bodies. last but not least, i cut my own chassis out of diamond tread aluminum. when i get a chance i will put some pics of it on.

[Got Speed]

If it's a .21 then some of the conversions come with the servo mounted in front of the fuel tank.

[punkrockracer]

are there any larger tanks that fit a stock 2.5 maxx with a pullstart? or would it not be a smart idea(higher temps due to longer rt?)

[2mcgrath]

anyone got any spare parts for a tmaxx they would sell im looking for 5 of the screws that hold the driveshafts to the diff's and tranny.. im also looking for two shoulder screws that hold the shocks to the towers.. and im also looking for the shock spring retainers tops and bottoms

[Got Speed]

punkrockracer- There are no direct replacement tanks I am aware of. You may be able to fit a fuel tank from another truck in there though. If youre engine is tuned right your temp shouldn't just keep climbing. If that were the case hour long A-Mains would be impossible because everybody's engine would flame out.

[nmt6789]

Hi, I bought this truck and I am trying to figure out what kind of Chassis is on it. Does anyone know what kind of chassis it is?? http://i23.ebayimg.com/01/i/01/7e/20/6b_1.JPG

[nitrothugg]

its called the spider chassis. you can find it here (http://2coolrc.com/chassis.html)

[nmt6789]

Does anyone have the Sirio 2.5 upgrade Kit??? I just got one the other day and I am waiting for my t-maxx to come. How hard is it to install the piston and sleeve??

[RSBatCRH06]

i need some help choosing some new mods for my t-maxx. im thinking of geting a tuned pipe from traxxas but is there any other kind of tuned pipe that i should get. im looking for an all around power pipe that will fit on the trx 2.5

[nmt6789]

THS pipes are pretty good for the 2.5 They make two diffrent types though. Make sure you specify the one for the 2.5 T-maxx.

[dcshoelover]

I'm installing an O.S. cv-rx .15 on my buddies t-maxx for him. And the clutch setups don't match. Now the reason he bought this engine is because it's a direct drop in bolt in motor. Now I'm being told that I have to cut the crankshaft to make it work? Is this true? False advertisment here? I need help????????????

[Nitro crazy 89]

Hi, I've had my AE RC10gt for about 2 years now, and I want to play with the big trucks now, so im thinking about getting me a T-maxx, the cheapest truck ive found so far was 389.99 at home town hobbies in Vancouver WA, do any of you know where i can find it cheaper and not have to drive a long way?

[Got Speed]

I saw it at Tower Hobbies for $369. If you go there and get $15 coupon then that's like $365 or so after shipping.

Or you could wait for the Revo but it will be more expensive.

[HEARTAGRAM666]

is the sportmaxx just the t-maxx but with 2-wheel drive?

[Got Speed]

The Sportmaxx is a single speed, rear wheel drive, forward only version of the T-Maxx. Right now Traxxas is including the 2 speed upgrade though.

[HEARTAGRAM666]

so it will acsept everything for the t-maxx

[Quinton]

Yep. They are the exact same except what he said above. It's made for ppl who don't have quite the funds to be able to get into the market and then upgrade later. Basicly like how a crack dealer gives you the first one for free. After that he knows you are a life long customer. LOL I am just kidding. Settle down people, there's nothing to see here. LOL It's also good to learn on since its single speed. If you're not use to nitro, THEY ARE FAST. Get one! I got both my Tmaxx's used for cheap.

[HEARTAGRAM666]

thankxx....im just getting into nitro

[HEARTAGRAM666]

i just wanna know if the savage shocks will fit on the t-maxx because my friend said that they would.

[Quinton]

It would have to be customized. They are too long for the Maxx. I wouldn't do it personally.

[hunter1]

Has anyone seen the AG or Copperhead P/S being sold at Tower
I like the idea but would like to learn more about it before buying
they said the 2.5 is going to be the next set released

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...1P?&C=GMZ&V=KHB

[riatvriderwd]

hey..i think im about to buy a tmaxx and i dont know really anything about it..so is there anything u guys could tell me to help me out..thanks

[onnetz]

I got mine a couple days ago and just got through the 5th break in tank today..
all I have to say about it so far is "WHAT A BLAST!!"
and you will need alot of room for that fifth tank..

[Quizzy_Maxx]

nitro rush---
as far as which is faster, i think they are both comparable. when it comes to handling the jumps, the tmaxx is awesome with jumps. as far as the savage, never driven one but judging by the shocks on the thing, looks like it can take a landing alright to me.

[Quizzy_Maxx]

hey..i think im about to buy a tmaxx and i dont know really anything about it..so is there anything u guys could tell me to help me out..thanks


the best advise i could give is follow the break in process that traxxas designed for the engine. also when it comes to tuning it always keep an eye on the temp. keep it below 270 F. Another thing i'd recomend is getting sealed bearings for the differentials. especially the rear. dirt gets kicked back from the tires and can mess up the diff bad if the bearing locks up. if the diffs get messed up, it puts too much strain on the engine. other than that just remember the most important part of it all........... Have a lot of fun.

[Strata33]

My buddy has a .15TRX, original T-Maxx and has had lots of problems with his pull start. The cord just after a few starts when new becomes very tough to pull and becomes jerky and won't retract fully. Any ideas on what causes this to happen to a pull start? He's had 3 pull starts and all seem to go like this within a few starts after being installed new. Is he doing something wrong somehow?

Which is better/more popular: pull start or ez start?

[RSBatCRH06]

it might be that the stuff in the manifold is stuck in there. all u need to do is to set it on its side and it will pour out. or it might be flooded. that what happens with me and my pull start for my trx 2.5

[RSBatCRH06]

forgot to add i like the pull start better that the ezstart. :cool:

[chevy_94]

has anyone ever heard of Integy? cause thats gonna be my project for my t-maxx to go with all integy stuff.

[speedydave]

Have any of you used the SuperMaxx/Ofna 9.5 shocks (4 of them) on your trucks without using SuperMaxx suspension? If so, which suspension are you using, and how are the shocks working for you (what do you think of them, were there any problems with installation, etc)? Thanks.

[christopher1519]

Hi I’m new to this hobby. I own a hpi nitro mt right now but someone is offering me a stock 1.5 T-Maxx for $150 minis the radio and receiver. He switched it to forward only and rebuilt the tranny and the engine is tuned in, so all I have to do is throw in a radio and receiver and I will be ready to go. He is also offering a new painted pro-line body for $25 more. Is this a good deal? I need to know by tomorrow
Thanks for the advice.

How easy is it to switch the 1.5 T-Maxx to a 2.5 or a 2.1?

[Quinton]

It's OK. I wouldn't call it too good though. Just MO

[jrjr]

Hi All.....
I just got a Maxx from a friend. Let me know what you think... I will still need a few things for it. Never been ran! I will probably be asking for some tips on the Maxx as its my first one.

www.jrjr.com/maxx/maxx.htm

[Quinton]

Looks real nice!

[jrjr]

Thank you! I think so too. What do you think on this.... the motor has a Monster Maxx head and a stinger pipe. When I decide to run it, should I break it in with this setup or return it to stock? I may not even run it this year, but the urge may get the best of me!! :)

[danieljk]

hey guys, I've had my .15 maxx for about a year now and I want to convert my trans to a 3 speed. yes a THREE speed. It is on 2coolrc. Is it a direct fit for a maxx or do you need to modify it???? thanks.

[Quinton]

They're a waste of money. They're basicly only for on-road and 1/8th tires. You should spend your money on converting your .15 to a big 24.7

Major Torque!!

[danieljk]

alright thanks. That was really just extra stuff though, what I really wanted was first supermaxx suspension($215), then a bulkless system($100), then a big block conversion($140), then work on the driveshaft($150) and hmmm, oh yea, an engine($160) that totals up to $600 w/o engine and $760 w/ engine :eek:

[Quinton]

I think for that much money I would leave the .15 Maxx alone and get the REVO.

[Scooby Doo]

Hey, I've been giving this a lot of thought and I have come to the conclusion that the money I earn during the summer (i.e. $600-$750) I am going to use on buying a Traxxas T-Maxx 2.5. I already have a Team Losi XXX-T RTR, but that is just not enough for the rough terrain that I have at my place. I just want to know that if I buy the T-Maxx, will I be 100 percent surprised, pleased, and content with what I buy? I need your opinions, not statistics, but your opinions, on how the truck is in your words. Plus, as for modifications, I'm pretty much set, but I don't plan to buy a big-block conversion kit, I want to keep the "heart" of the T-Maxx. Do you all think that the parts from Integy are any good in keeping up with what I break? The reasons I want a T-Maxx are: The potential for upgrading, and increasing performance, and overall durability. The quality of the truck, in terms of a first nitro truck that I will have owned. The speed, so I can crush my friend's Savage 25. That's pretty much the reason(s) I am going to get one, but it'll stay stock for quite a while. All I am asking from you guys is what you think of the T-Maxx, in your own words, and what kind of fuel to buy, like Trinity Monster Brew, or Duratrax Red Alert.
Later,
John
P.S. Daniel, you might want to rethink your spending, unless you have the cash, money, whatever. And if you are going to work so hard for the money, save some of it, so you'll have some for later. (parts to be replaced)

[Quinton]

Again... Scooby get the REVO. Totally new.

[Scooby Doo]

No thanks, $110 more than the T-Maxx, plus no aftermarket support at the time, thanks for the suggestion, but I'll just buy the T-Maxx.
Later,
John

[danieljk]

P.S. Daniel, you might want to rethink your spending, unless you have the cash, money, whatever. And if you are going to work so hard for the money, save some of it, so you'll have some for later. (parts to be replaced)[/QUOTE]