Traxxas T-Maxx Forum v3.0

[EvaderBX]

I want to get a pullstart for my S-maxx but the only problem is i dont have a glo starter. And i dont have enough money to buy one. I have 25 bux and thats enough for the pull start. Not enough for the glo starter though. Any suggestions?

[RSBatCRH06]

bum some $$$ off some one you know or find some $$$ in your car...LOL...thats what i had to do 2 day ago.

[EvaderBX]

well turns out i have enough now. I found some old coins in my room that my dad gave me and on of em is worth 400 bux...lol a 1911 D wheat penny. I also have 1943 steal pennys for 40 bux for each. IM RICH! im gunna HECKA pimp out my smaxx.....SHOOT! lol im happy as a mo fo

[Tim'sLosi]

well turns out i have enough now. I found some old coins in my room that my dad gave me and on of em is worth 400 bux...lol a 1911 D wheat penny. I also have 1943 steal pennys for 40 bux for each. IM RICH! im gunna HECKA pimp out my smaxx.....SHOOT! lol im happy as a mo fo

Kinda sad to throw away an investment like those coins. As much as I am for pimpin', I wouldn't waste rare coins to do it. Save up your cash and keep the coins. My rare $.02. TT

[EvaderBX]

yeah i guess that makes sence. But i have over 5,000 in coins and takin 200 of it wont hurt..

[Kevin M]

hi, i have a t-maxx with a picco .21 max engine in it and i keep on breaking driveshafts. i had megatech center cvds and i broke them after the first tank of it being tuned good. then i bought rdlogics, and they lasted for 2 tanks. What is the best center driveshafts that i can get and will not break??? :confused:
http://www.******.net/media/Img_0857.jpg
http://www.******.net/media/Img_0858.jpg
http://www.******.net/media/Img_0861.jpg
all of these are the megatech center cvds

[GT Freak]

well, got fuel, and new batteries, but today its wants to rain..gggrrrrr :mad:

[daveo]

hi, i have a t-maxx with a picco .21 max engine in it and i keep on breaking driveshafts. i had megatech center cvds and i broke them after the first tank of it being tuned good. then i bought rdlogics, and they lasted for 2 tanks. What is the best center driveshafts that i can get and will not break??? :confused:


The best shafts are unlimited engineerings, The next best are MIP, but they will break eventually. Other than those two companys the rest are not going to hold up against a big block.

[GT Freak]

so, today it has been sunny and i went out to run, but it sounds like im stripping my pinion/spur. how do i set the mesh on the maxx :confused:

[T-maxx 4eva]

set it to were u think it is right and then run a piece of paper through it 2 check the mesh.

[Kevin M]

thanks for the help, i just bought those ue driveshafts off of stormer hobbies.
kevin

[Tim'sLosi]

so, today it has been sunny and i went out to run, but it sounds like im stripping my pinion/spur. how do i set the mesh on the maxx :confused:

Get it close and roll the spur gear around to find the high point (they all have one). Mark the high point and loosen the engine again. Tear a half inch wide by two inch long strip of notebook paper off and slip it between the gears while keeping the high mark at the clutch bell. Slide the engine over till the paper just meshes with the gears...don't over do it. snug down the bolts and check the mesh. The gears should roll nicely without getting tight or sloppy. You have set your gear mesh. Tighten down the engine bolts, make sure you used blue Locktite on them beforehand.

[GT Freak]

Ran for about 15min today before my plug died.....gggrrr
wonderin if these truck arent "tinker toys" rather then "go trucks" :(

[GT Freak]

Well, found another stock spur, figured where the prob was, fixed that. NOW lets se if i can run it for mor the a half tank before something ELSE goe wrong with it. :D

[Quinton]

My TMaxx was ole reliable once I got rid of the 2.5 and installed a Sirio.

I have my Sirio sitting here on my desk since I sold my Maxx.

[GT Freak]

well, today was AWSOME! got to run through 4 tanks of fuel before going to work. not sure what i done but whatever, it worked! :p :) :D

[GT Freak]

well, hearing a sound like gears r stripping, but the mesh is spot on....could it be the slipper :confused:

[rcman22]

here's my tmaxx
I have an os 18 tz tx with phantom factory pipe. revo tires & mags, integy shocks,
aluiminum skid plates, ladders, bulk heads, and pro line crowd pleaser body. and whellie bar, that I do need with the os 18 tz tx it stands up all the time.

[rcman22]

here is my tmaxx & my son's rc10gt

[rcman22]

tmaxx

[Kevin M]

i just put my ue driveshafts on my t-maxx but i noticed that the bone moves back and forth a lot. is that normal and if not how do u fix it? :confused:

[1215maxx]

This just happened today, my t-maxx was runing and then started to have big performance problems. I tinkered around with the high speed needle and still, it almost ran as if it was stuck in 2nd. But after checking the tunning I tried to run it with the return hose unplugged from the pipe and it ran great, plugged it back in and same problem, slow, chokeing out and no high rpms. Could there be a problem with the pipe ? its the factory one. I also noticed that not that much blue smoke when pluged in, but unpluged it smoked fine- :confused:
Thanks in advance

**EDIT** My coupler that conects the header to the pipe is missing one of the zip ties and I see a small bit of oil around the connection. This area of the pipe gets pretty dirty ( oily ) and now taking a closer look I notice the coupler is dirty too ( oily ). When I took off the pipe to clean it just slid right off, from what I said above could I be looseing pressure in my pipe , just enough to not force pressure in the gas tank ? I'm also thinking that it may be creating reverse back pressure being I unplugged it and the thing ran great until the tank lost what psi it had. I'm also thinking of getting a header/pipe with no connection, all one piece - I'm starting to realize getting gas to that carb is a big factor. Again Thanks !

[GT Freak]

will any of these mills work in a gen 1 maxx??

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZ30&P=0 :confused:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZ15&P=0 :confused:

wil i be able to "just drop it in,hook it up,and go" :confused:

[PCC]

will any of these mills work in a gen 1 maxx??

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZ30&P=0 :confused:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZ15&P=0 :confused:

wil i be able to "just drop it in,hook it up,and go" :confused:
Neither engine is a drop-in. They both require that you cut the threaded shaft down to fit.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP8&P=0 is a drop-in fit for your truck and costs the same. The power is considerably more than either of the engines you listed. The second engine you listed would be a bad choice for something as large as the T-Maxx.

[GT Freak]

Thank u very much! :cool: ill save that info

[GT Freak]

Well, talked to traxxas, they said the same thing, get a new chassis. Well, since i have a new one sitting here, im going to start the operation on the patient this week. :) so im wondering, what do i use the old chassis for then :confused:

[T-EVO RACER]

1. a trailer,
2. put a engine mount on and put on 2 blocks of wood and make it your motor tester
3. hit it with a hammer
4. burn it
5. tape a couple m80's to it and blow it up

I like the last 3.

[GT Freak]

hhhhmmmmm, now this is better then the ideas i got at the other forum...trailer.....hhmmm

[GT Freak]

OPERATION was a success!! Now its llooookkinnngg gooooddd!Got the METAL SPUR added to it this time. tis a temp solution, till i can get a stock spur on it. :) happy again

[RespirologyRC]

With my old chassis I chopped off all the areas that I felt had excessive weight and tried running her like that. I fitted it with the old T-maxx short arms and made the chassis sit as low as it could go without hindering performance. All I can say is that this was a waste of my time and my money. I kept eating clutch bells and plastic spur gears. I immediately tossed the chassis and bought a new one from ebay for 5.00

[GT Freak]

well, added the new chassis, but trashed a tranny gear, dang truck kept jerking into play. what can i do to stop this prob?? :confused:

[Chevy-SS]

Potential T-Maxx buyers read this:

Just stopped in to wish all you T-Maxx owners good luck. I have two T-Maxxes and they have been the worst money pits I've ever owned. I've got plenty of other monster trucks. Yeah, my other MT's need repairs here and there, but nothing like a T-Maxx.

Great thing about a T-Maxx is that plenty of manufacturers make aftermarket parts. The bad thing is, you'll end up having to buy a lot of those parts.

You wanna hard-bashing truck, get a Savage. You wanna do some racing, get a Monster GT or Losi LST.

[T-EVO RACER]

hey chevy, man you hate maxxs don't you?? my maxx runs like a champ, not alot of money to make like it is, I have no problem with breaking my truck, but I also don't crash into curbs and crap, I run on tracks, my maxx isn't no money pit, so potential and present maxx owners if you don't want your maxx to be a money pit, PM me and I'll hook you up with tips!!

[Chevy-SS]

Well, no real flaming meant in my statement, just simple fact. I think it's important for potential buyers to see various viewpoints. As I said, I speak from real experience, as I have two T-Maxxes, one of which is a $1,500+ full-out racer and the other is a speedy basher with P2 Picco, Integy shocks and much more.

So, it's not like I'm just trying to needlessly start flaming war. Some guys may have great luck with T-Maxxes, and that's good. I had bad luck with mine, even after lavishing heaps of money on them.

One good thing about T-Maxx is it seems to have inspired the whole monster truck craze, and that's fabulous! Kudos to Traxxas for that.

Also, Traxxas did a nice job on the Revo. That's a quick racer.

[XTCRacing]

[QUOTE=Chevy-SS] the other is a speedy basher with P2 Picco, Integy shocks and much more.

There's your problem....you use Integy products,and yes I'm bashing Integy...their products suck and there cusomer service is horrible.
I've owned several Maxxes and the one I currently have only has maybe a $100 worth of aftermarket parts at the most and is by far the best one yet...I've wasted my money on the aluminum products and stupid little piggyback shocks only to find out it makes the truck way heavier and burned up more clutches,then when you do crash it and those parts bend(which they will)it's a big pain in the ***** to get the bent parts off.Just my .02
If you want a good truck,buy a T-maxx and stay away from Integy!!!!

[T-EVO RACER]

no flame intened chevy,ok? and yeah integy aluminium sucks!! that might be the causes of your problems.

[Chevy-SS]

Yep, I agree Integy sucks, but those lousy shocks are about the only thing that hasn't broke.

[T-EVO RACER]

seriously!!!????

[Nitroshredder]

Greetings guys... I'm not new to R/C. I started about 5+ year ago with an HPI Nitro touring car.. and have gone off-
road since then... I currently have a TMaxx, Losi XXX-NT DE, Trinity Reflex, and a Mini-T and MicroRS4 for the house. Anyways, I have taken about 1 ½ years "off" from nitro to work on some other stuff.. and am having the fever again...and my TMaxx is getting the love now =) It's been a while for me since I was into the scene last.. and MUCH has changed.... so I have some questions if you all don't mind..... I have done searches on this stuff and turned out empty handed.... here goes =)

Here's my TMaxx (for background sakes): 1st gen TMaxx, Proline suspension kit (w/ Ti turnbuckles), Proline/MIP CVD's all around, Big Bore shocks, RRP spur/slipper (plastic), RRP disc brake, RRP FOC, Sirio TX-18 (8 port), Sirio pipe, Proline BowTies (M3 compound) on RPM Claws with wide offset, RPM skid plates and tranny skid (3 total), new Spektrum receiever and more that I'm forgetting... I have NOT done any aluminum to try to keep the truck light.... here's my questions =)

* I got my Proline suspension kit before Traxxas did the MAxx 2.5.. with the "wider" suspension... now which is the wider of the "available" arm kits? Is the stock 2.5 A-arms longer, or the Proline, or are the RPM A-Arms longer?

* Are the Proline Powerstroke shocks WORTH the $$$ performance wise? How are the RPM 2stage shock pistons... sounds in theory like they BOTH do the same thing?? And for $7 versus $150? Anyone tried both? I just want to be able to keep from bottoming out on jumps.. yet handle the "little" stuff without tossing the maxx around with a hard ride.

* What is everyone using for shock springs? I just found a set of springs I bought for my maxx like 2 years ago (still in the package).... they are silver and HELL STIFF. I have seen reference to Losi truck springs... if Losi springs are good to use for the maxx, what are the stock TMaxx springs closest too in the "Losi" range?

* What the heck are these "Series" 40 tires by Proline... they look HUGE!!! Wouldn't that slow down the truck? What is the thinking/advantage there? How about Revo wheels/tires... would they be a good compromise b/w stock MAxx and 40 series hardware? Also, their new "hubs" are to improve durability... but only work with the 40 series wheels right?

* Diffs: should I worry about blowing diffs with the Sirio 18 in there? I have the RRP diff rebuild kits ready to go and will do the diffs soon.... but if I have a "tight" diff... with no play... should there be any fear of killing my diffs... I don't lock down my slipper... I let the slipper work like it's supposed too. =)

* What is a good tight chassis, more rigid than the stock chassis, yet lighter.... Integy has a "spider" chassis.. is that one decent? or should I get the Traxxas one.. or even a Hardcore Ti chassis? I am planning to move the tank (like in the Pit Pass article on traxxas.com) and rx pack (under chassis) to lighten the truck... will the alternatives allow for "drilling" (i.e. Ti chassis.. and spider chassis?) to do these mods?

Thanks in advance guys....

Pete

[Mild MAXX]

Greetings guys... I'm not new to R/C. I started about 5+ year ago with an HPI Nitro touring car.. and have gone off-
road since then... I currently have a TMaxx, Losi XXX-NT DE, Trinity Reflex, and a Mini-T and MicroRS4 for the house. Anyways, I have taken about 1 ½ years "off" from nitro to work on some other stuff.. and am having the fever again...and my TMaxx is getting the love now =) It's been a while for me since I was into the scene last.. and MUCH has changed.... so I have some questions if you all don't mind..... I have done searches on this stuff and turned out empty handed.... here goes =)

Here's my TMaxx (for background sakes): 1st gen TMaxx, Proline suspension kit (w/ Ti turnbuckles), Proline/MIP CVD's all around, Big Bore shocks, RRP spur/slipper (plastic), RRP disc brake, RRP FOC, Sirio TX-18 (8 port), Sirio pipe, Proline BowTies (M3 compound) on RPM Claws with wide offset, RPM skid plates and tranny skid (3 total), new Spektrum receiever and more that I'm forgetting... I have NOT done any aluminum to try to keep the truck light.... here's my questions =)

* I got my Proline suspension kit before Traxxas did the MAxx 2.5.. with the "wider" suspension... now which is the wider of the "available" arm kits? Is the stock 2.5 A-arms longer, or the Proline, or are the RPM A-Arms longer?

* Are the Proline Powerstroke shocks WORTH the $$$ performance wise? How are the RPM 2stage shock pistons... sounds in theory like they BOTH do the same thing?? And for $7 versus $150? Anyone tried both? I just want to be able to keep from bottoming out on jumps.. yet handle the "little" stuff without tossing the maxx around with a hard ride.

* What is everyone using for shock springs? I just found a set of springs I bought for my maxx like 2 years ago (still in the package).... they are silver and HELL STIFF. I have seen reference to Losi truck springs... if Losi springs are good to use for the maxx, what are the stock TMaxx springs closest too in the "Losi" range?

* What the heck are these "Series" 40 tires by Proline... they look HUGE!!! Wouldn't that slow down the truck? What is the thinking/advantage there? How about Revo wheels/tires... would they be a good compromise b/w stock MAxx and 40 series hardware? Also, their new "hubs" are to improve durability... but only work with the 40 series wheels right?

* Diffs: should I worry about blowing diffs with the Sirio 18 in there? I have the RRP diff rebuild kits ready to go and will do the diffs soon.... but if I have a "tight" diff... with no play... should there be any fear of killing my diffs... I don't lock down my slipper... I let the slipper work like it's supposed too. =)

* What is a good tight chassis, more rigid than the stock chassis, yet lighter.... Integy has a "spider" chassis.. is that one decent? or should I get the Traxxas one.. or even a Hardcore Ti chassis? I am planning to move the tank (like in the Pit Pass article on traxxas.com) and rx pack (under chassis) to lighten the truck... will the alternatives allow for "drilling" (i.e. Ti chassis.. and spider chassis?) to do these mods?

Thanks in advance guys....

Pete
First off I have owened T-maxxes sence they were introduced almost 10 years ago and I have tryied just about every after market part you can think of and I wont spend my money on Integy parts any more I used there chassis once it came bent right (wrong) out of the box. I have had great secuss with Hardcore's parts I have been running one of there .21 conversion kits through 3 .21 type engines (.21,.28,.30). It even lived as a shop demo for awhile and even a stunt truck for some local car shows so its been beat ON bad so I would recomand a Hardcore chassis and no manufactuer wants you to drill extera holes in there products ( but you can if your carefull about it)
Shocks I have had good luck with just stock bodies rpm 2 stage pistons ( play with your oil weight ) and stock red springs but trinity makes some that are stiff enough so all you need is one per corner. try the cheep stuff first
The proline 40's are just bigger rimed and alittle wider not any taller
Your .18 did I mentiton I currently run a.30 in one of mine well it has stock diff gears and plistac housings my other t-max has the O.S. cvr .18x with you guessed it stock diffs.
In short just be awere of what your getting try to spend as little as posible to get the end result your looking for you can have a great maxx with out spending alot of cash on it it may not be as flashy and all that but you wont be afread to run it and get it drity you wont see the table queens as we call them out on the track or in the backyard getting bashed around with there best in show ribbons flying.

[valleynitro]

For those who race, here is my setup. How is yours?

http://www.valleynitro.net/bash/DSC00082.jpg

http://www.valleynitro.net/bash/DSC00081.jpg

http://www.valleynitro.net/bash/DSC00080.jpg

http://www.valleynitro.net/bash/DSC00079.jpg

http://www.valleynitro.net/bash/DSC00078.jpg

http://www.valleynitro.net/bash/DSC00077.jpg

I dont use this setup to bash for the main reason that its too weak.

[Karadjas]

The T-Maxx is not even close to being 10 years old, I think it was launched in 2000 or 2001.

[stonesavage]

$14.95 each made by nova r/c they come in standard screw or 3 mm!! a must for 21 maxxes

[bradad]

Hi guys,

I thought I would just ask straight out.
I have a first generation T-Maxx and I was wondering what the differences are between mine and the new T-Maxx? I know the new ones have longer suspension arms, different engine, etc, but are the diffs and the rest of the drive train the same?? Any other major differences?? I was wanting to get an OS .18 cvrx(s) for my first gen maxx. Will the stock clutch shoe/bell setup work? What other parts will I need for it?

Thanks for any help,
Brad

[Mild MAXX]

Hi guys,

I thought I would just ask straight out.
I have a first generation T-Maxx and I was wondering what the differences are between mine and the new T-Maxx? I know the new ones have longer suspension arms, different engine, etc, but are the diffs and the rest of the drive train the same?? Any other major differences?? I was wanting to get an OS .18 cvrx(s) for my first gen maxx. Will the stock clutch shoe/bell setup work? What other parts will I need for it?

Thanks for any help,
Brad

Brad I run that engine in my truck a first gen t-maxx use the rotory card version all you have to do is cut the crank thread down to fit the clutch nut thats it every thing else is the same. the 2.5 maxx's just have longer arms & a redisinged engine it's even still a.15 they just call it the 2.5 for 2.5cc the displacement in metric itsted of inches.
When you put the os 18 use a steel spur the plastic ones are veary short lived it has a lot of low end & probley the longest power band I have seen in a nitro two cycle engine. Have funn.

[bradad]

Hi Mild MAXX,

Thanks for the response.
Do you know if the carb from the .18 cvrx(s) will fit the trx pro .15? My original engine is still good, but the carb is shot completely, and I mean destroyed! (don't ask..lol)

I guess my main concern is parts availability for my tmaxx, but if the first gen. is the same as the new version, then I won't have to worry about parts.

[perkdaddy08]

Oh, and one more thing, lol. Where is the cheapest place to buy a Maxx?


Go to this website and check it out www.southeastrc.com

[perkdaddy08]

Hi, I've had my AE RC10gt for about 2 years now, and I want to play with the big trucks now, so im thinking about getting me a T-maxx, the cheapest truck ive found so far was 389.99 at home town hobbies in Vancouver WA, do any of you know where i can find it cheaper and not have to drive a long way?

i found it online at southeastrc.com.u'll have to order it but it is cheaper i think it is like 369.99 or 359.99 i aint sure but check it out

[Mild MAXX]

Hi Mild MAXX,

Thanks for the response.
Do you know if the carb from the .18 cvrx(s) will fit the trx pro .15? My original engine is still good, but the carb is shot completely, and I mean destroyed! (don't ask..lol)

I guess my main concern is parts availability for my tmaxx, but if the first gen. is the same as the new version, then I won't have to worry about parts.

Hi bradad the short answer to your carb quston is NO. they are two totaly different engines the .18 is way bigger then the pro .15 not to mention different brands. If you still want to use the pro .15 just buy the carb they are about $40 brand new. If you put the o.s. 18 in you will never look at that stock engine agin. don't worry about parts Traxxas will be making parts for along time to come. :)

[Duster_360]

http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//l129.html

TMaxx at Ultimate Hobbies is $335 with free ground shipping. Its in the listing on the above page, about 15 down. Its in stock. I've bought several rcs from Ultimate - their prices are hard to beat and their service is 1st rate.

[2xmaxx]

hi, i need a little help with the brakes. i have the stock disc, but it dosn't stop like it use to. i have tried cleaning it with scotch bright but it didnt help. maybe the linkage is not right.or the brake set pin screws that hold the plate are out of adjustment. it seems to me that a stronger servo is needed, but it use to work great with that one, (and my batteries are charged up)any ideas?.


try a carbon fiber dics bond a extra set of pads together so they wont flex take a ball point pen spring and cut it into 3to4 coils and install them between the pad to help keep the pads from draging. I used my oringal steering servo for my throttal brake and put a stronger and steel gear on my steering it works great and other max is mostly stock but has robinson pads and disc it works well also no more flipping over when you stand on them

[wishmasstir]

if anyone has a spare set of cvd's for the old maxx let me know cause i NEED a set asap

[NitroTXT1]

just picked one up already has ugraded servo,rb turbo x15 pipe running trx 2.5 w/ enlarged cooling head,cvd's all around....but i was wondering did anyone still make a truggy conversion for this truck or does proline still produce it's bulks? cause i have an mp tranny + dom chassis and center dog bones lying around and was thinking of making into truggy and then making existing chassis a lightweight basher

[bradad]

Hi guys,

I am looking at upgrading my original T-Maxx to T-Maxx 2.5 status (wide suspension) and I will be dropping in a O.S. .18 CV-RX engine.

I would like to go with upgraded parts, like MIP CVD's, RPM A-Arms, etc, etc....and beef up the drivetrain where needed..

What all do I need to convert my original T-Maxx which is completely stock to the wide suspension setup??

Could someone help me out with some part numbers? I will most likely order the parts from Tower.

Thanks a million for any help you can give me.

Brad

[Mild MAXX]

Check with your lhs to see if they have Proline wide maxx kit with tie rods if they don't you can get all the part numbers youll need at www.traxxas.com click on T Maxx icon then parts exploded view 2.5 T maxx this will show you a parts list like in your manual. Have fun with your new .18 they are super fast!! I hope this helps you in your search.

[Duster_360]

Hi guys,

I am looking at upgrading my original T-Maxx to T-Maxx 2.5 status (wide suspension) and I will be dropping in a O.S. .18 CV-RX engine.

I would like to go with upgraded parts, like MIP CVD's, RPM A-Arms, etc, etc....and beef up the drivetrain where needed..

What all do I need to convert my original T-Maxx which is completely stock to the wide suspension setup??

Could someone help me out with some part numbers? I will most likely order the parts from Tower.

Thanks a million for any help you can give me.

Brad

Here's the conversion kit offered by traxxas, its everything needed to upgrade your orig Tmaxx to the widemaxx (2.5) suspension -

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAK6&P=7

Now just add the rpm arms for a 2.5 etc and you're there. RPM Arms in black -

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDNA8&P=ML

I would wait on the cvds - get it running and break it in, then as you break stuff, upgrade. I put a full set of RD Logics CVDs (wheels and centers) in mine for about $75 (Ebay) when I swapped to an FR18 engine. They have been fine, no probs. Here's a ref on the engine swap and if you'll look around on his site, read his comments on the various CVDs too -

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/motor-swap/tm-motor-swap.asp

[bradad]

Duster 360,

Thanks much.

Could I just order the .18 CV-RX(S) (short crankshaft version) http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP8&P=ML instead of cutting down the crank on the .18 CV-RX??? Do I need the clutch adapter?? Remember I have the original T-Maxx.

Will the original cvd's reach with the new long suspension setup? That's why I thought I would have to get new ones?

Thanks again,
Brad

[triumph2010]

hey, guys just finished breaking in my sportmaxx today. :D But noticed a few things that I'm concerned about. First, after a few tanks the truck started creeping forward at idle,I turned the idle speed screw cc and didn't notice a change in the sound. but, it did quit creeping forward is this normal. also, during cleaning up the oil :( I noticed the spur gear is warped/disformed, will this lead to premature failure. I have never seen this, looks like its loose.

[Duster_360]

Duster 360,

Thanks much.

Could I just order the .18 CV-RX(S) (short crankshaft version) http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP8&P=ML instead of cutting down the crank on the .18 CV-RX??? Do I need the clutch adapter?? Remember I have the original T-Maxx.

Will the original cvd's reach with the new long suspension setup? That's why I thought I would have to get new ones?

Thanks again,
Brad

Your orig cvds have enough extension (they telescope) to work with the new suspension - thats whay they're not in the TRX conversion kit, they're not needed. They might not last long with the 18 though, but should get you thru breakin and a little beyond.

On the q about CV-RX vs CV-RX(S) - what's important is getting the clutch spaced right. If the CV-R(S) is too short, you won't get the clutch to fit. That said, reading the ad on Tower for that engine, they advise -

"FEATURES: Larger displacement and more power in a .15 size crankcase
Short shaft crankshaft for use on T-Maxx and Associated vehicles"

Makes me think it will work as a replacement for your orig Maxx. No guarantees, though, but looks like its intended for your application. I guess you still use that clutch nut adapter? Seems as long as you get that to tighten on the flywheel, you're set.

hey, guys just finished breaking in my sportmaxx today. :D But noticed a few things that I'm concerned about. First, after a few tanks the truck started creeping forward at idle,I turned the idle speed screw cc and didn't notice a change in the sound. but, it did quit creeping forward is this normal. also, during cleaning up the oil :( I noticed the spur gear is warped/disformed, will this lead to premature failure. I have never seen this, looks like its loose.

Nope, spurs wobble like that and they're fine. Once it get under load, it straightens out, but its hard to see it cause its moving. Both mine wobble like yours. If the idle is high enough, it will engage the clutch and it'll will creep. Back the idle down until it sits still like you did, that's the right thing to do.

[triumph2010]

thanks, duster

[nathandvug]

I have an "old" t-maxx and I haven't used it in a couple years. I wanna get everything fixed that needs to be fixed and the main thing I want to do is upgrade the engine. I've found an OS MAX .18 engine that I'd like to use but would I be able to simply drop in the engine and go or would it require some type of conversion? I'd appreciate any help. Thanks in advance.

Edit: I know I want to upgrade the engine cause my old .15 is shot and plus, I want more power than that. Please provide me with your suggestions (I'll also need a new pipe obviously when I get an engine so provide suggestions for that too.) Keep in mind, I don't want to spend much and I want it to be a pretty simple operation. I'm not too good with modifying parts.

[Duster_360]

I don't know which OS18 you have, is it new? It would help knowing which model it is, but, since your orig engine was a side exhaust, you'll need a side exhaust 18. The CV-R series are side exhausts. They pretty much dropin (engine mounts are same), the big question is the clutch nut/crank length. This pdf shows the orig clutch nut - if your 18 engine has a longer crank, it will have to be cut. Once thats done, using the clutch nut from your old engine, you'll have the clutch spaced properly and it should work.

http://www.traxxas.com/products/nitro/tmaxx/blueprints/011201_tmaxx15_tranny.pdf

Here's a how to - shows how to tell if/how much you would need to cut off the crank and how to do it -

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/motor-swap/tm-motor-swap.asp

If you 18 is one of the CV-R series, you'll have plenty of power. The last link has a pipe to look at too. Here's a header and another pipe to consider -

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXN1&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP47&P=ML

[nathandvug]

My truck isn't the 2.5 model which to my knowledge is the newer T-Maxx models... My truck is already a side exhaust setup so I won't have to change anything there (and yes, I've seen that pipe before and that's what I would get)

As for the engine, which of the CV-R series is the best do you think? And how much more power would you say it has over the stock .15? I've heard of people doing wheelies... Would this engine be capable of doing that. Once again, thanks in advance.

[Duster_360]

I realize you have the old version, or original - what I wanted to do was to let you see what the deal was with the clutch and getting the flywheel bolted on correctly. If that clutch nut bottoms out on the crank before it tightens down on the flywheel, you'll have to cut the crank. Otherwise, it won't go together.

The CV-Rs all make the same power, there is no diff between them from a practical standpoint. If you have the short shaft model, all you' should have to do is swap parts. If not, you'll likely have to cut the crank .

It will pull wheelies with no prob once you get it broken in and tuned right. The OS18 CV-RX was the winner in RCCAs 12/04 18 motor shootout, beating the sirio and the fantom. My fantom18 powered Maxx wheelies too easily.

[nathandvug]

So there is a short shaft model... Are there any disadvantages between the short shaft and the regular model? Why would I cut it to make it shorter if I can just get the short shaft model? Thanks for all your help man.

[Duster_360]

No, they are the same except for some part differences like the cranks, or a pull start or no pull start. Your earlier note you said you already had an OS max 18 engine. I don't know which one you've got. If you want to buy another, definitely buy this short shaft model. This is the short shaft

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP8&P=ML and here's a quote from Tower tech on the engine -

"This is the O.S. Max .18CV-RX(S) Engine
with 11J rotary carburetor and pull starter.

Good for all ready-to-run 1/10 scale cars & trucks that require
a pull-start power plant. Especially good for off-road trucks. Differs
from OSMG2102 in crankshaft length and carb type.

Fits all Traxxas® vehicles w/side-exhaust engines and
All Associated RC10GT series.
Direct fit for the Pro 15 not the 2.5."

The old Tmax was called the Pro 15. If this is the engine you have its a direct drop in like it says. If this is not the one you've got, you'll have to cut the crank to make it work. There are no disavantages or disadvantage to short versus not short crank - they are the same engine just 2 diff cranks. The design of the clutch and the room in the front of the engine is what determines what crank you've got to have.

[nathandvug]

Thanks man... Mine is the Pro .15 (well it says Trx .15) so this is good cause I really didn't feel like cutting anything or doing too much work cause I'm not good at it.

Anyway, I'll use this info to upgrade my truck and I know where to post if I need any more information. Thanks again!

[Duster_360]

Thanks man... Mine is the Pro .15 (well it says Trx .15) so this is good cause I really didn't feel like cutting anything or doing too much work cause I'm not good at it.

Anyway, I'll use this info to upgrade my truck and I know where to post if I need any more information. Thanks again!

They are one and the same - there have only been 2 version of the Tmaxx - Pro15 anbd TRX 15 are the same thing. The short shaft is the one you need and it will not require anything beyond just removing the old engine, swapping the flywheel and clutch pieces over to the new engine. You should replace the clutch bell brgs and the clutch shoes as well while you are in there - then it will literally be like a new engine. Good luck

[nathandvug]

Is the link to the engine in the previous post the short shaft model? By looking at it, I would assume it is.

[Duster_360]

Is the link to the engine in the previous post the short shaft model? By looking at it, I would assume it is.


Yes, thats the short shaft engine - that's the "S" in the CV-RX(S).

[Petox20]

New T-Maxx TRX 2.5

Whats everyones thoughts on this new engine?

Any things i should watch out for?

I just got my T-Maxx, and I have had my Hobby Shop owner help me start it twice, but I have trouble starting it. It wasn't adjusted properly from the factory for break-in like they say it is. :mad:

[bradad]

Duster 360,

Thanks for the info.

Do you think I will need the clutch adapter to install the .18 CV-RX(S) in my original T-Maxx that had the PRo .15??

Thanks,
B

[Duster_360]

No, looking at the exploded drawing of that engine, your engine has it already, all you need do is swap parts. This is supposed to be a direct replacement of the Pro 15 engine.

[bradad]

TY.

Did you notice how Tower raised the price by $10.00 of the (S) version??
It was at $99.99 for the longest time....they most likely read the forums..

[Duster_360]

Still a bargain, prob one of the best engine purchases out there as far as what you get for the money. Makes almost as much power as the 18TM for $100 less. Guessing it was 1st of the year type price increase. Good luck, think you'll be pleased with that engine.

[triumph2010]

brake problem, I just recently upgraded my sportmaxx to a 4x4. I took it out & noticed it didn't have brakes. I found the problem but don't know how to fix it. The blue hex nut or collar under the brake disk is not locked to the driveshaft or transmission. what do I need to fix this. thanks

[Petox20]

Has anyone installed a supercharger on their truck? I am curious to know if they work well, if at all. I was thinking of getting one, but I'm not convinced that it would be worth the money. Any first-hand experiences would be very valuable because the only information I could find was writen by the company marketing it :rolleyes: . Thanks.

[Petox20]

Will a 5 cell flat reciever pack fit in the new T Maxx battery box?

Thanks!

Allen T

I have a hump pack. I naturalyy doesn't fit, because of the height. Anyway, it's width doesn't fit. I would assume that the width is the same as a flat pack, but I can't say for sure. If it did fit, though, you would have to at least cut the wire going to the stock AA holder and put in conectors like the standard small plug, or like a Deans Plug one. It is a bit of a pain to charge them, but I just bought 4 AA rechargable cells and put it into the stock AA holder (I allready had the AAs and an extra 4 AA holder w/connectors to charge.) If you don't have the tools or skills to re-wire, this method is easy (no modifications), and much cheaper than all those AAs to buy (even Costco's), and great for the beginer. Hope my rantings are helpfull.

[Duster_360]

brake problem, I just recently upgraded my sportmaxx to a 4x4. I took it out & noticed it didn't have brakes. I found the problem but don't know how to fix it. The blue hex nut or collar under the brake disk is not locked to the driveshaft or transmission. what do I need to fix this. thanks

There's a thru pin that locks the hex nut to the trans shaft. Looks like you get the yokes with the pins. Hopefully, yours just came loose and fell out. Degrease the new pin (alcohol or nitro cleaner) an the screw hole in the shaft and let dry. Use some blue or meduim loctite to reassemble.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=4927x&FVPROFIL=++

[Duster_360]

I have a hump pack. I naturalyy doesn't fit, because of the height. Anyway, it's width doesn't fit. I would assume that the width is the same as a flat pack, but I can't say for sure. If it did fit, though, you would have to at least cut the wire going to the stock AA holder and put in conectors like the standard small plug, or like a Deans Plug one. It is a bit of a pain to charge them, but I just bought 4 AA rechargable cells and put it into the stock AA holder (I allready had the AAs and an extra 4 AA holder w/connectors to charge.) If you don't have the tools or skills to re-wire, this method is easy (no modifications), and much cheaper than all those AAs to buy (even Costco's), and great for the beginer. Hope my rantings are helpfull.

If you use one of these, its tight in the stock batt box, but it fits fine and being tight keeps it from banging around. You're correct, a 5 cell flat pac will not fit. WHen you use one of those (I'm running one on my race Maxx), its zip tied to the underside of the chassis - protected and helps lower CG. Or you can also buy a replacement batt box that has a built-in rechargeable (with new switch with separate charge lead) from Ballistic batts.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=4927x&FVPROFIL=++

The batts right on teh front page (there's a bigger one available, look in products)

http://www.ballisticbatteries.com/

[Petox20]

I'd go with the savage because it's more durable and more stable than the maxx on the track. The motor can easly be upgrade to blow off a .15 motor. I have both and like them but the savage is one I like more. Oh yeah, do you need that black ring on the top of your 2.5 engine for anything other than the glow plug wire? Mine came off?:) :confused:

The plastic on top of the engine head isn't secured well at all. It's only functions are to hold the glow plug wire in place, and to protect the engine head in case of a roll-over (upside down run on pavement = one chewed up engine head.) It isn't important, only to keep your cooling head looking good.

[jc2stroke2]

got a quik ?? how do i lower the gear ratio in my maxx without changeing clutch bells or spurs is there tranny gaers or rear end gears im runiing a 36cc chainsaw engine and it is insane fast wanna slow it down but im goin dirct to the tranny

[jc2stroke2]

cant shrink my pic small enough to load,or id show ya maby some ne can host it fo me

[Duster_360]

I've never seen diff trans gears offered with diff gearing. Supposedly the gears in the 4.6MGT will fit (don't know that 1st hand though) and I'm not sure if they are the same ratios or not. As far as diffs go, the UE 6 or 8 spyder diffs are geared lower, but are expensive. They are 3.31 vs the 2.85 thats stock R&P ratio. They are way stronger too - stockers won't take much as you prob know.

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store/13540.html

[speedyg76]

Hey guys I just wanted to say hi and I just bought a T-maxx off ebay so I should be on here alot lol. This is my first nitro truck ever so I am sure that I will need help with this so I would like to thank you all in advance :D . Can anyone tell me where I can get an owners manuel for this truck?

[Duster_360]

You'll find everything you need listed here - manual, exploded views of the Tmaxx and engine, instructions for some of the mods Traxxas sells, both 2.5 and the older Pro15 versions - all in pdf format -

http://www.traxxas.com/products/nitro/tmaxx/trx_tmaxx_views.htm

[T-Maxx2.5]

I was wondering who has used these Associated Differential Balls (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LX2760&P=7) in place of slipper pegs and what were the pro's and con's if any. Thanks

[Duster_360]

I haven't but apparently Misbehavin' has some experience. Using all 12 pegs has been the ticket for mine, so far -

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/slipper-pegs/tm-slipper-pegs.asp

[T-Maxx2.5]

I know thats where i heard about it just wondering if anyone else has had good luck with that set up.

[speedyg76]

Hi guys I got my T-maxx yesterday. I went out today to start and run this beast, well I got problems and I hope that you all can help. I put new batteries in the controller and reciever and I can't get the truck to respond to anything. If I get the controller right up to the antenna then it kinda works, I can see the throttle moving when I pull the trigger and the steering will work as well. If I start the truck though it will not respond to anything and I have no idea why??? Any ideas as to what I can do to get this to work, or what may be wrong? Thanks for the help.

[speedyg76]

By the way I got it used and I have never had a non electric rc before so be gentle I am a noob lol.

[oc off road]

tmaxx 2.5 I used them. pros they don't wear out / cons easy to loose when changing spurs

[kcvpr]

hey guys iv got a tmaxx with big bores,rpm shock towers and a-arms,beadlocks, ofna fail safe, and ms filter, im just wundering if you guys can tell me somthin.

here goes im goin basher with a friend soon, hes got a revo wit a rb tm323, and i want to race him and stuff, so my question is what should i get for my maxx so i can keep up wit the revo

also should i get a new chassis or losi zombies? thanks

[smoky]

hey guys im looking to buy a tmaxx or savage ive heard the tmaxx is very brittle and breaks easily and ive heard the savage is very durable.could you guys give me some help. is the tmaxx really that easy to break or is it these people just dont know how to drive. plus what parts would you recommend to upgrade. i like both trucks but my main concern id durability sice it will be a strictly basher thanks alot for any help.

[Duster_360]

hey guys iv got a tmaxx with big bores,rpm shock towers and a-arms,beadlocks, ofna fail safe, and ms filter, im just wundering if you guys can tell me somthin.

here goes im goin basher with a friend soon, hes got a revo wit a rb tm323, and i want to race him and stuff, so my question is what should i get for my maxx so i can keep up wit the revo

also should i get a new chassis or losi zombies? thanks

Stock to stock, a Tmaxx can keep up with a Revo (RCCA test some time ago, there were just about even). Against a well tuned RB TM323, sorry, I don't think you've got a chance with the 2.5. New chassis isn't going to make a diff. Get yourself a OS18TZ and the lightest tires/wheels and a good exhaust, you might be able to make it close, better yet get the same motor as the Revo. Then the light tires (regular bow ties on velo dish wheels) will make a diff esp if you friend is running some heavy tires/wheels too.

There's no replacement for displacement as the saying goes.

[davetexas22]

I was just wondering and it probably has be asked before but how many of you race the TMAXX and if so, what are some good setups.

[BishopRyan]

hey guys im looking to buy a tmaxx or savage ive heard the tmaxx is very brittle and breaks easily and ive heard the savage is very durable.could you guys give me some help. is the tmaxx really that easy to break or is it these people just dont know how to drive. plus what parts would you recommend to upgrade. i like both trucks but my main concern id durability sice it will be a strictly basher thanks alot for any help.
Here ya go mine is for sale with tons of upgrades well over a $1000.00 invested. Bulletproof. You won't need to put a dime in this one.

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=213948

[HiTempguy]

Hey everybody, man, has it been a long time since I've been into the R/C scene. It's crazy of how much it's grown.

Anyways, enough with my little rambling :D After a 2 year break from my beloved R/C cars, it has come to my attention that R/C's are still alive and kicking quite well in my area, cumulating in the R/C Winternationals in Alberta. While I had sold my 1/8th scale GS Storm, my father kept his T-Maxx (non-running) for sentimental purposes. What I want to know is if the T-Maxx is still competitive in today's R/C world (ie, would it be a good candidate to revive and compete with for fun)? A list of things done to it:

T-Maxx 2.5 suspension w/ cv axles added
proline variable shock valves (not those fancy new ones, the old school ones that had multiple holes that opened and closed to give you varying amounts of damping)
unknow big block conversion kit (4mm thick titanium plate)
thunder tiger .21 (needs a rebuild, thinking of buying a new, more powerful motor)
traxxas aluminum *diff carrier plates, forget what they are called*
180oz/in hitec steering servo
ball bearing steering
sealed BOCA bearings all around
proline original bowtie rubber on traxxas sportmax rims

I am a very decent driver (or was, I've owned 6 t-maxx's and the GS Storm), and was as deep as you could get into these vehicles in my area. Any hints/tips would be appreciated, as I would love to get my t-maxx back on track. Thanks guys!

[BishopRyan]

I don't think a T-Maxx is a great racer but if your a good driver I'm sure you'll do well. If your a Traxxas fan a Revo would be a good racer.

[hungryhippo]

:confused:

Ok, it seems like i stripped my screws in my Hubs. so i can not switch out my tires. anyone have any tips to remove them. the standard 5/16 is almost tight enough.

any ideas. i dont want to dremel them off yet??

[SerpentKing101]

either find a pair of pliers and twist them off or get some loctite and a screwdriver and twist them off that way.

you'll regret using the dremel unless you have spare axles.

[Duster_360]

:confused:

Ok, it seems like i stripped my screws in my Hubs. so i can not switch out my tires. anyone have any tips to remove them. the standard 5/16 is almost tight enough.

any ideas. i dont want to dremel them off yet??

You mean you rounded off the nuts so you can't get a grip with a wrench? Use vise grips and set them for just a little past a pinch so you don't distort the nuts.

Or do you men you've tightened them too much stripping the thread in the wheel nuts? If thats what you've done, you can usually get under the nut with the tip of a screwdriver and pry them up as you try to unscrew them. Might take 3 hands, but it works for me - it slow too, but once you ge them started backing off, they will come on off. Unfortunately this usually kills the thread on axle shafts and those will need to be replaced.

[RCIntel]

I'm going to get a new engine for my t maxx but do not know what would be the best drop-in engine for the truck to give it lots of power or would it be worth it to go for a big block engine conversion to get some more power into my t maxx? :confused:

[Duster_360]

Tmaxx drive line will take 18 power for a while, then you'll need to upgrade diffs and eventually drive axles with CVDs, but they will last a while. Go big block and as soon as you get engine broken in, you'll strip diffs. Soon as you fix diffs, you'll twist drive axles in two. Soon as you get those fixed, you'll fry clutch, then the slipper and then the plastic gears in the trans. Get the idea? Tmaxx is not made to handle big block power.

I'm building one that styled off a Tmaxx - a UE SuperMaxx. It will run a TM728 modded engine and will have upgraded diffs, CVDs, and trans. I got $1600 invested so far and will order the motor, pipe and some other parts next week. I figure I'll have $2100-2100 in it when its finally running. Check out http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store to get an idea of what it takes to reliably run a big block in a Tmaxx.

An OS 18Tm will make the Maxx fly - spend $60 to strengthen both diffs and another $75 for a full set of CVDs and have a reliable, fast, fun truck. Put a Picco 21 or 26 in it and you turn a Tmaxx into a money pit.

I replaced my 1st 2.5 with a Fantom FR18, it was a kick. Its now running a OS18TM and its even faster.

[cody05]

Could i use Carb and choke Cleaner to clean my t maxx? will it hurt my electronics and electric stuff? i have to order through tower and the nitro clean is expensive with shipping and all that. what do u guys use besides nitro clean? thanks cody

[T-EVO RACER]

i gotta question, my homie just got a tmaxx, and i have a tmaxx and revo, do the revo diffs work in the tmaxx? cause i dont want to spend a whole mess of money just to run diff oil in the diffs for me and my homie's tmaxx's.

[cody05]

i gotta question, my homie just got a tmaxx, and i have a tmaxx and revo, do the revo diffs work in the tmaxx? cause i dont want to spend a whole mess of money just to run diff oil in the diffs for me and my homie's tmaxx's.
Just use grease thats what i did. i had grease laying around the house so i used that. (the gease would be the type that can be used on real equipment)

[cody05]

Could i use Carb and choke Cleaner to clean my t maxx? will it hurt my electronics and electric stuff? i have to order through tower and the nitro clean is expensive with shipping and all that. what do u guys use besides nitro clean? thanks cody

[Duster_360]

Could i use Carb and choke Cleaner to clean my t maxx? will it hurt my electronics and electric stuff? i have to order through tower and the nitro clean is expensive with shipping and all that. what do u guys use besides nitro clean? thanks cody

I've read that carb & choke cleaner will affect the plastic - make it sticky like its been partly melted or something like that. I use denatured alcohol mixed about 1/2 and 1/2 with water and I add about 10% simple green cleaner. I use a spray bottle and hose it down and avoid spraying it directly on the electronics. I use a toothbrush if the crud is caked on and the blow it off with air from my air compressor.

Save the nitro cleaner for degreasing stuff. Its too expensive to use as a cleaner.

i gotta question, my homie just got a tmaxx, and i have a tmaxx and revo, do the revo diffs work in the tmaxx? cause i dont want to spend a whole mess of money just to run diff oil in the diffs for me and my homie's tmaxx's.

I've never read anywhere that Revo diffs will fit a Tmaxx, so I would gues no, they don't. If they did, I'm sure it would be big news!!

[T-EVO RACER]

ya i already use grease, but i guess its not thick enough cause my diffs spins the wheels in opposite directions really easy! unlike my revo where it gives but not as much. wats the thickest type of grease you guys know of, cause i use black grease in my maxx diffs. right now.

[cody05]

get diff oil and try it a thick diff oil....like 120,000 weight

[T-EVO RACER]

ya, but wont it leak out cause the diffs. arent sealed

[Boostin_69]

3.3 MAXX AND REVO ON THE TRAXAS WEBITE www.traxxas.com

[cody05]

ya, but wont it leak out cause the diffs. arent sealed
no it shouldn't cause mine was really watery/oily before i repacted them and they never leaked

[T-EVO RACER]

ok koo, then next time i need to get into the diffs cause i blew them or something then i'll fill them withthick diff. oil

[Duster_360]

Even thick will leak out, just takes longer. Mine did. I went back to grease, 1:1 axle brg grease. Some use silly putty in theirs - almost locks it but does allow some diff action.

[T-EVO RACER]

i'm going to use axel grease instead of black grease

[Bangstick]

Hi guys,

1st post, fresh from tamiyaclub and needed a more specialised forum so here i am. My T-MAXX was running fine then it started cutting out and performing not as good as it did and now it seems to blow glowplug likes they're goin outta fashion about 1 plug per half a tankfull which is way too expensive :confused: anyone care to shed a little light on this annoying issue? cheers

[cody05]

Hi guys,

1st post, fresh from tamiyaclub and needed a more specialised forum so here i am. My T-MAXX was running fine then it started cutting out and performing not as good as it did and now it seems to blow glowplug likes they're goin outta fashion about 1 plug per half a tankfull which is way too expensive :confused: anyone care to shed a little light on this annoying issue? cheers

r u sure ur not running it way to rich?

[Duster_360]

Ok! I've finally gave in a decided to get a T-Maxx. Heres a list of things I think would need to race the truck and not worry too much about breaking, what do you think? Need anything else?

-Servo-air358 (Have) Move the stock steering to throtle

-Servo protecter (Have)

-Oneway(fwd only gear in tranny) (Have)

-steel spur gear (Have)

-Front ti skid plate (Have)

-5 cell receiver pack (Have)

-tires??? which ones

What about a rear skid plate and the center plates are they really needed? I think lighter is better! I don't want to race a tank. Are the stock shocks up to the punishment of racing? What type should I get when the need arises? Traxas big bores or some other type?

Proline strg kit with the saver built in - much more precise strg. I use a center skid cause it stiffens the chassis braces and that helps stiffen the chassis. Once you get that air358 installed- look carefully as you turn lock to lock - its powerful enough to flex the chassis. I installed a 645 and noticed a day or so later that when I turned the wheels I could see the engine head move - chassis was flexing. Hope you've got a radio with EPAs - that takes care of that prob.

For tires you want something as light as possible - wheels too. The SportMaxx wheels with the traxxas Sporttrax tires saves you about 50grams per wheel. Proline velocity dish wheels and bow ties will save even more weight and may be slightly cheaper. If you're going to run on the street - bow ties will wear too quick. Sporttraxx are better there, but prob best at the road rage by Proline. If you will use a few wraps of teflon tape on the top of the shcoks before you screw the caps on, the stock shocks will surprise you, teflon greatly reduces chances for blowing caps off - try 30wt and much stiffer springs, use the mounting holes to get arms level.

[cody05]

New T-Maxx TRX 2.5

Whats everyones thoughts on this new engine?

Any things i should watch out for?
thats an old engine the new engine is the 3.3

[tmaxx101]

Hey,

[tmaxx101]

Hey,
Does anyone know if an Os .30 Vg will fit in a T-MAXX or will i needa conversion for it?

Thanks

[cody05]

Hey,
Does anyone know if an Os .30 Vg will fit in a T-MAXX or will i needa conversion for it?

Thanks
i don't know if it will fit or not but it might counter weight one side and u might flipped it over too much (too much weight on one side) .30 is pretty good size for these

[tmaxx101]

Thanks,
I might just get a .21. Thanks for the advice

Chris

[tmaxx101]

Hey,
Does anyone know if there is a minimum outside running temp for running nitro trucks. Or will it have to be started in a garage or something? It has gotten below 40 s that too low to run my T-MAXX?

Chris

[Duster_360]

What I see listed for minimum temp is 50F. You can run it colder if you will put some tin foil on the cooling head to reduce cooling so you get engine temp 200-220F. The tin foil blocks the cooling air and lets the engine develope some heat. If you can't get temps up over 200, you're prob damaging your engine.

These engine have a tapered cylinder - that's why the piston seems to stick at the top - this is where its running into that taper, it's also called pinch. When the engine is hot, everything fits like it is supposed to cause the metal expands. If its too cold, the taper is still there and you'll wear out the pinch in the cylinder. Then when it gets warm, you'll find you have low or no compression. Plus if the pinch is real tight, slamming the piston into it repeatedly can break the conrod or cause lots of wear.

[cody05]

What I see listed for minimum temp is 50F. You can run it colder if you will put some tin foil on the cooling head to reduce cooling so you get engine temp 200-220F. The tin foil blocks the cooling air and lets the engine develope some heat. If you can't get temps up over 200, you're prob damaging your engine.

These engine have a tapered cylinder - that's why the piston seems to stick at the top - this is where its running into that taper, it's also called pinch. When the engine is hot, everything fits like it is supposed to cause the metal expands. If its too cold, the taper is still there and you'll wear out the pinch in the cylinder. Then when it gets warm, you'll find you have low or no compression. Plus if the pinch is real tight, slamming the piston into it repeatedly can break the conrod or cause lots of wear.
Well i have to disagree (not to fight or ne thing) but i have ran mine outside a lot below 50 and its been about 20-30 out and i have no problems with temp it stays in the 200 range and i have the windsheild cut out and the front below the grill ut out cause of last summer so its all depends and how u have it tuned i would say

[cody05]

not saying ur wrong either

[tmaxx101]

Thanks,
It is supposed to be 38 this week so i'll try it and see what happens. I will try the till foil.

Thanks,
Chris

[zdoc]

So i modified my tmaxx and put in an electric motor. It was very simple I will put pics up tomorow. My only problem is that the transmission doesnt engage until the motor reaches about 50% throttle therefore robbing me of speed and power that I want. Is there any way to make the transmission engage sooner or immediately. When a nitro engine idols it still spins the transmission but it doesnt engage until a certain rpm, does anyone no how to get rid of that.

[cody05]

So i modified my tmaxx and put in an electric motor. It was very simple I will put pics up tomorow. My only problem is that the transmission doesnt engage until the motor reaches about 50% throttle therefore robbing me of speed and power that I want. Is there any way to make the transmission engage sooner or immediately. When a nitro engine idols it still spins the transmission but it doesnt engage until a certain rpm, does anyone no how to get rid of that.
Its made for a nitro engine not to be electric so i don't think u could unless u adjust the shift points to shift sooner

[Chevy-SS]

You guys thinking about getting T-Maxxes.........

I would strongly recommend getting another truck. Traxxas does a fabulous marketing job, but the T-Maxx is out-dated and should be put out to pasture. It's difficult to upgrade the engine (need a "mid" size block), the bulkheads and many other driveline components are weak, it's somewhat difficult to service.

I'm not just coming in here to bash T-Maxxes. I have three of them. One is a full-on racer with every add-on you can think of, another has the Picco .21 in it, etc. I spent a ton of money on T-Maxxes. But now all my T-Maxxes sit on shelves collecting dust.

If you're considering a new Monster Truck, get something that kicks butt, without having to spend oodles of money on. How about a LST2? Great truck, lots of power, already comes with a fully syn radio. Or maybe a Monster GT, super solid truck, full aluminum chassis, .28 engine, very easy to work on and race......

I'm not trying to be a jerk here. I'm offering honest feedback is all. Spend your money wherever you like, but if you spend it on a T-Maxx, then you've spent badly, IMO.

-

[Duster_360]

not saying ur wrong either

The important thing is the temp - if you don't need the tin foil, great, but on really expensive engines (NRs, RBs etc) with large cooling heads, its hard to get the temp up. You will wear out an engine running it too cold - its as bad as running it too lean.

What you've also just told me is how lousy trx cooling head is, which I suspected all along. My prob is the other direction - mine runs too hot or too rich. No inbetween, until I changed to a bigger head. Now it runs really well and doesn't get too hot.

Every year when things get warmer, you can find threads asking for help cause the Tmaxx is now hard to start, or won't stay running and it has no compression, but was bought new, broke in by the book but at temps 25-50 degrees.

[tmaxx101]

Ya i tried the tim foil and found that i didn't need it and it ran fine at 220-230 once it was warmed up.

[tmaxx101]

Any suggestions for tires? I already have the stock T-MAXX ones and a set of bowties. im lookin ginto a set of Imex Jumbo claw. not the 8.5', just the jumbo's. Any other suggestions besides the Imex's?

Chris

[punkrockracer]

Anyone thinking about dropping the 3.3 in their Maxx?

[tmaxx101]

I am it's cheap and powerful. 60% more peak power than the 2.5! Dang. It's $152 at Towerhobbies. it's on my list

[punkrockracer]

What's a good clutch that will lock up a little higher in the powerband? Trying to get my wheelies back, and never liked the stock clutch anyways.

[tmaxx101]

Does anyone live in the Chapel Hill, NC area. If so do you know of any tracks or any good places to run my T-MAXX. I've only got a construction site thats about finished. I don't mind driving a bit to get to a place, like in Durham or Raleigh.

Thanks,
Chris

[Duster_360]

What's a good clutch that will lock up a little higher in the powerband? Trying to get my wheelies back, and never liked the stock clutch anyways.

Try the GA 3 shoe alum clutch. It's been sweet on the FR18 and now the OS18Tm thats running one of mine.

http://www.greatassemblyrc.com/3_Shoe_Clutch_Assembly.cfm

[hogghead]

So i modified my tmaxx and put in an electric motor. It was very simple I will put pics up tomorow. My only problem is that the transmission doesnt engage until the motor reaches about 50% throttle therefore robbing me of speed and power that I want. Is there any way to make the transmission engage sooner or immediately. When a nitro engine idols it still spins the transmission but it doesnt engage until a certain rpm, does anyone no how to get rid of that.


find an early s-maxx transmission. they only have 1 spd, no reverse, and
they engage immediately!

[sl9mk]

I am thinking of buying a T-Maxx. I was in the LHS the other day ad they said that the T-Maxx's steering is weak enough that if you are sitting on pavement the front wheels won't turn side to side. he said that the truck has to be moving to be able turn the front wheels on asphalt. Is this true? It doesn't sound right to me.

[tmaxx101]

I am thinking of buying a T-Maxx. I was in the LHS the other day ad they said that the T-Maxx's steering is weak enough that if you are sitting on pavement the front wheels won't turn side to side. he said that the truck has to be moving to be able turn the front wheels on asphalt. Is this true? It doesn't sound right to me.


I have the stock servo on my truck and i've never had that problem. :confused:

Chris

[Bangstick]

Any suggestions for tires? I already have the stock T-MAXX ones and a set of bowties. im lookin ginto a set of Imex Jumbo claw. not the 8.5', just the jumbo's. Any other suggestions besides the Imex's?

Chris

I bought a set of dirt bonz wheels and tyres and they work a treat. Nice compromise between grip and drift. I find the stock open centre tyres give too much grip on things like grass causing the truck to roll and flip too often. I only use my T-MAXX for bashing not racing so grip isnt important for me, if you race yours i expect you want as much grip as possible. Hope that helps

[lds12]

When a nitro engine idols it still spins the transmission but it doesnt engage until a certain rpm, does anyone no how to get rid of that.


Im confused by what you mean here. The nitro engine shouldnt be spinning the transmission as this would keep a constant load on it. The clutch on ur engine is what should be controlling engagement, Not the tranny. I dont have a tmaxx so im not positive, but it doesnt make sense that ur tranny doesnt engage immediately unless there is a clutch system in the tranny and not on the engine. is that the case with the maxx?

[FlyerCAN]

I am thinking of buying a T-Maxx. I was in the LHS the other day ad they said that the T-Maxx's steering is weak enough that if you are sitting on pavement the front wheels won't turn side to side. he said that the truck has to be moving to be able turn the front wheels on asphalt. Is this true? It doesn't sound right to me.


With mine its true the servo is not strong enough. It also states that in the manual somewhere that thats the way it is. I changed my servo a year later for a high torque one and used the steering original for the throttle. Lots better now.

Chris

[nitro_newbie]

i wanted to sell my smaxx and i was wondering how much i should start the asking price i got i for $330 a year ago(would 320 be good startfor the price?) and i have so far gotten the pull start and the motor has only 4 gallons on its fith one and it only hase a cracked front lower arm(at the hinge pin part but still can be run with current arm but will replace) and couple scratches on the skids custom motor mount and a new nissan titan body. could i also trade it for a emaxx cuz i really dont want to go buy fuel on the internet to expensive for metruck still gots lots of compression left and i used after run oil would thanx.but i dont know if that is a good reason to sell my truck.thanx again:)
nitro_newbie :cool:
edit:i might try to convert my smaxx to electric does the 2 speed have a clutch for first gear or is it to just get it to shift to second gear i also dont got reverse :)

[Firehawk100]

Hey,
I was wondering if anyone has used the a arms and shock towers that rpm makes for the t-maxx, are they worth it or should i just stick with the stock parts?
Thanks

[tmaxx101]

Hey,
what do you all think about the Picco .26 engine. I want to upgrade and it's this or the TRX 3.3 also, is it worth it to exchange my 2.5 for the 3.3.

thanks,
Chris

[Duster_360]

Hey,
I was wondering if anyone has used the a arms and shock towers that rpm makes for the t-maxx, are they worth it or should i just stick with the stock parts?
Thanks

I've got them on one of my Tmaxxes - arms and towers. Look great and haven't broken any more arms or towers. The RPM arms and towers are way stronger than the stock parts. I waited until I started breaking stuff and just replaced it with RPM as I broke stock stuff.


Hey,
what do you all think about the Picco .26 engine. I want to upgrade and it's this or the TRX 3.3 also, is it worth it to exchange my 2.5 for the 3.3.

thanks,
Chris


Picco 26 is a decent engine - thinks its worth the price. If you drive real nice, you may be okay for a while, but you'll have drive train probs sooner or later with a bigger, more powerful motor.

The 3.3 is still kind of an unknown quanity at this point, but the beauty of it is you have Traxxas backing it up. I'm looking at upgrading my stock 2.5 via the exchange prgm too. I want to see some feedback 1st on how the 2.5 drive train stands up to the 3.3. On my other Tmaxx when I changed to an FR18 engine, I had to redo both diffs with alum diff cups, modded ring gears for the bigger screws, and put them in alum cases with an alum diff collar. I also had to change to a full set of CVDs. Since then that truck runs an OS18TM and has had no trouble.

The 3.3 is supposed to have 60% more power than the 2.5 and that would give it a little more power than the OS 18TM. The newer Tmaxxes may be able to take it since they have apparently beefed upo the drive train some, but the older ones may have drive line problems like I did when I put in an 18. I want to know if 3.3 is going to shred my drive train before I get into it.

[Firehawk100]

Thanx for your input, i will probably go with them the next time i break (that happens rather often lol)

[SerpentKing101]

Maybe you guys can help me out, this seems to be a problem with multiple causes...

The engine (pro .15) gets really good rpm, but the tranny doesnt shift (used to). the engine takes a good while to get back down to idle (unless i hit the brakes hard). and at a standstill, the t-maxx would get up to about 10mph by itself.

im using top fuel 20% and a mc-59 plug if that matters.

[Karadjas]

If you haven't changed tuning, fuel, glow plug, air filter, pipe since running with no problems in the same weather and altitude, your creeping problem is either due to a leak causing a leaner mixture, wrong linkage setup not closing the carb or a worn clutch spring that lets the shoes engage too early.
For the slow deceleration... Remove the air filter and check the linkages. The carb needs to close all the way down to the idle position(probably 1-2mm open) when you let go of the throttle.
As far as shifting, if you mean 1st gear to 2nd, try adjusting the tranny through the rubber plug. If you mean fwd-rvs, then this is the same problem as the creeping one.

A pro .15, wow. I struggled hard to kill mine (to justify getting a .15 CV-X Hyper). I even let the carb loose a lot of times so that it would lean itself to death but it didn't. The carb would fall out and then the Pro would start at first pull as soon as I put it back. I had to go donutting in very fine gravel with no air filter a few times to finally make it. Nice little engine in retrospect.

I curious as to what my T-Maxx gen.1 is worth. It has:
Power:
Hot Bodies .21BB
Tsais Savage one-piece pipe
Motorsaver
Ofna MBX tank
Tornado Fuel Filter

Tranny:
MIP Clutch
Traxxas FOC
12 pegs on Kimbrough
MIP CVDs

Suspension:
Proline kit
Ofna Hyper 7 front shocks on front
Ofna Hyper 7 Pro front shocks on rear
RPM bulkhead braces
Parma wide hexes

Chassis:
Hyper 7 Pro engine mount
Tamiya TA03 Pro carbon radio plate
RPM center skid
2.5 chassis plate
Duratrax servo skid
Hyper 7 wing mount
Tri-level wing
Ball Bearing steering
Moved a lot of stuff around

Radio:
Bluebird BMS-621MG steering servo
Bluebird BMS 661MG+HS throttle
Kimbrough servo saver
Graupner XR2 SSM radio
GV failsafe
Venom 1200Mah pack

Also Hpi Q6 black wheels with Bowties and Proline GMC Sierra body.
It's all in perfect condition. I'm not interested in selling it, I'm just asking how much it's worth.

[SerpentKing101]

i put everything back to the factory break in settings except for the HSN (its 2 1/8 turn out) because it was having the slow drop to idle before. only now it revs higher and doesnt shift.

[Karadjas]

So it doesn't shift to 2nd? Is that what you're saying?

[SerpentKing101]

yeah, doesnt shift to 2nd. my t-maxx is forward only.
--
i loosened the idle screw and it doesnt move on its own as much. its rich, but thats the only way to keep it still

EDIT: earlier, i did notice the entire carb was loose. tightened it down, but no avail.

[Karadjas]

Try closing the idle gap while leaning to keep it running. It'll essentially be the same thing as now.

As far as shifting, try tuning the tranny. If that doesn't do it and the engine still gets to high revs, then the power is not going to the tranny. Make sure your clutch engages strongly (check for wear, clean and scuff the bell a bit) and that your slipper clutch doesn't slip excessively. That's all I can think of right now without looking at your Maxx. If that doesn't fix things, it may be time to open up your tranny and check for anything that doesn't look right.

[RCfroman]

I'm having a problem with my Maxx, when I give it full throttle, it revs up like it's going full speed, but it's only moving like 10 mph... Anyone know what's going on?

[tmaxx101]

Yeah,
I had that problem last week. There are a number of things that could be wrong.
1. Your slipper is too loose.
2. your needles are way to rich
3. your gears in your tranni are stripped
4. your spur and pinion gears are incorrectly set(try meshing them again)
5. your friction pegs are worn out

this is what Traxxas told me when i emailed them.

Hope this helps

Chris

[RCfroman]

friction pegs? I'm not sure what these are. Forgot all about the slipper... thanks for the help.

[Karadjas]

the pegs are the small red cylinders inside the spur gear. Essentially your slipper clutch.

[RCfroman]

Oh yeah... it's all coming back to me now!

[sportmaxx91]

Funny. My pegs wore down the other day. I am going to upgrade them with the associated diff balls.I think they r even cheap than the reg. pegs. I will L u all know how it turns out.

[Duster_360]

Stock setup runs only 6 pegs - soon as you can if you're sticking with stock, buy extra set and fill the empty holes. Running 12 will last longer and work better and its a real cheap mod.

[getsideways1]

hey guys, i have a maxx with the 2.5 and am having some problems. when the car is runnning, it will not get down to even half tank and the engine flames out and then i cant get it started for 30 minutes. the car is tuned nice, nice blue smoke all the time. it shifts normal and idles fine. the only thing i noticed the other day was that there was a alot of oil on the chassis below the pipe and around the carb. do you know what this means?
thx alot

[tmaxx101]

hey guys, i have a maxx with the 2.5 and am having some problems. when the car is runnning, it will not get down to even half tank and the engine flames out and then i cant get it started for 30 minutes. the car is tuned nice, nice blue smoke all the time. it shifts normal and idles fine. the only thing i noticed the other day was that there was a alot of oil on the chassis below the pipe and around the carb. do you know what this means?
thx alot

Hey,
Try checking to see if your header is tightened to your engine. Check to see if the o-ring is still there. If not they are only about $1.20 at Tower. also see if your carb is tight.

[T-Maxx2.5]

I'm wondering what steering servo you guys are useing over the stock one? Thanks in advance!!!!

[Karadjas]

I used to use a Hitec 645MG but I pulled that when I got my 2nd buggy and got a Bluebird 621MG some time later.100oz and .10 sec.

[T-Maxx2.5]

I used to use a Hitec 645MG but I pulled that when I got my 2nd buggy and got a Bluebird 621MG some time later.100oz and .10 sec.


wow that was quick anything you had to change for either of those or were they just plug and play??? Will the stock servo saver work on the Hitec servo?

[Duster_360]

No, the stock saver will not protect a servo with metal gears, and its spring is too weak anyway. Need a better on designed to work with mg servos, stronger spring, will make it steer more precisely. Kimbrough makes one that will work, but I don't remember model number. 129?

[Karadjas]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXS361&P=ML

It's 124 :)

[Duster_360]

I was close....lol.

This is even better if you don't mind the extra work - gets rid of servo mounted saver completely and uses a 1/8th style saver mounted on one of the bellcrank posts. Proline's strg performance kit.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ProLine-Maxx-Performance-Steering-kit_W0QQitemZ6050462745QQcategoryZ44028QQssPageNam eZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Only thing better is the UE gen IV servo saver setup.

[T-Maxx2.5]

thanks for the help guy :D

[T-Maxx2.5]

One other thing a have a question about. I have a 1100MaH hump pack in the Maxx, when i got it i charged it using a Prophet Plus II AC/DC Peak Charger (http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYN4054) I set it to 2 amp mode which the directions suggest for all batteries over 600MaH. I want to say it was charging for 30 minutes and the chager hadn't peaked it yet and the Battery was HOT!!! I unpluged the charger because i didn't really feel like haveing the battery explode!!! Am i just being a sissy about it or did i do the right thing by unpluging it? So I'm now discharging it so i can try to peak it again on the 1 amp setting. (charger has either 1,2, or 4 amp settings.) how long should i discharge the battery useing a stadard car light bulb? (turn signal bulb)

Thanks in advance!!!!!

[Duster_360]

Rx batts are diff because of their size - max charge rate recommended is 1.0amp and thats considered a fast charge. Slow charge is 0.5 amp. Def go with 1.0amp.

They do get warm to hot when charging, but if you can't hold one, its too hot. Sounds like you did the right thing in stopping the charge. Once a pac vents, its time to get a new one. I thinks its rare that one would explode.

Discharge just until the light dims.

[SerpentKing101]

Got my T-Maxx running pretty well, besides the wierd shifting prob (stuck in 2nd, easy fix)

But how would I go about fixing the toe-out? Its a little too much on all sides, but i want a little bit out front. camber is good on all corners.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v449/KeltosJonn/P1030817.jpg

[FlyerCAN]

The metal linkage holding the wheel to the frame has a place in the middle to put a wrench. Turning it in either direction makes the wheel go in or out. By the looks of yours you wont do any harm in trying it out. :D

turn radio and receiver on and center front wheels. Get a straight edge long enough to go from front to back along side the tires. This will give you a starting point in getting them perfectly straight. Then you can go from there to adjust the toe the way you want it.

Chris

[SerpentKing101]

the front wheels are centered, I think they bumped into my leg when I was taking pics. That would be some sort of horrible setup if if wasnt though. :D

[vic2367]

hi everyone newbie to the tmaxx here...just got a t maxx 3.3 ...followed all the directions to the t...all charged batterys, for the radio , and my spin starter,also for my reciever,,all is working well electroincly,,my problem is trying to start the truck...wont turn over , tried allllll day and nothing,,,am about to give up and sell the truck on a web auction,,,at times it feels like the truck will start but wont...any help ?

[FlyerCAN]

Wont turn over on its own I assume, but it will turn over with the starter?
Did you choke it while turning it over? Put you hand over air filter till you see the fuel flow through the line to the carb then remove hand from covering filter. If you did do that and now its flooded then remove glow plug from motor and let it dry a bit or a lot. Give us some more detail as to what you did try.

Chris

[tmaxx101]

hi everyone newbie to the tmaxx here...just got a t maxx 3.3 ...followed all the directions to the t...all charged batterys, for the radio , and my spin starter,also for my reciever,,all is working well electroincly,,my problem is trying to start the truck...wont turn over , tried allllll day and nothing,,,am about to give up and sell the truck on a web auction,,,at times it feels like the truck will start but wont...any help ?

Your engine may be flooded. take out the glow plug and spin the engine while holding the truck upside down and the gas will come out. replace the glow plug and lean the mixtures up a little.

[vic2367]

ok..everyone,,,finally got the tmaxx 3.3 started up...was a combo bad plug and flooded engine,,,went to the park 2day size of park is like 15 acres big ,,,all trees and grass,,,this this screams fast,,,,broke in the truck first ,,then let her loose ,,,wow,,,ended up breaking my front a arms both of them...hit a concrete wall about 3 ft high and 2 1/2 ft thick...running about 30mph at least,,head on...only thing broken,,,

[Duster_360]

Glad to hear you got it running - try some RPM arms instead of stock - they're some kind of nylon and are almost impossible to break. Come in colors too, matter of fact they are warranteed against breaking.

[RCfroman]

Yeah, RPM arms are a really good upgrade, especially since if they ever break, they'll replace them for free.

[vic2367]

yeah ive read that everywhere about those rpm arms ,,,just ordered some today,,,guess ill be waiting for awhile

[vic2367]

ive swapped my emaxx arms and put them on the t maxx everything fits great ,,just one problem now...anyone know the best way too connect the ballstuds back on the a arms ? been trying but wont fit ...

[SerpentKing101]

set-up question...

is there a way to cut down on on-throttle understeer? mine pushes pretty bad. also, it would snap oversteer off-throttle.

is it just a t-maxx thing, or can it be fixed?
--

Yay, had my first real crash yesterday. I ran WOT into this traffic island sorrunded by these wood posts. I broke a shock cap, snapped the two lower bumper mount screws, and lost an antenna cap.

[genericuserid]

I've owned nothing but t-maxx's since they came out. the pushing on throttle is normal. They have gotten a lot better since the introduction of the wider arms, it used to be that it would roll over if you let off the throttle and then turned. There are things you can do to give it more steering. I belive a little toe out in the front and making sure your steering throw is as good as it will get are a couple of things. The T-maxx was never really great at turning though. Oh... also I don't know how the lattest t-maxx comes set up but the factory servo saver is junk(little plastic thing with a spring on top of the servo?), I use an 1/8 scale style bellcrank with built in servo saver from pro-line. That helped with keeping the wheels going in the right direction during a turn. To sum it up the t-maxx doesn't really turn very well, but I can jump it over my suburban!!! (and then go back in the house and replace the bulkheads.) keep lots of bulkheads handy.....and suspension pins......and spur gears.......and motor mounts......hmmm bulkheads too.

[tmaxx101]

Hey,

[Delrevo]

Hi all,
New to the forum and wanted to show my first paint job and upgrade to my T-maxx 2.5. Upgraded to a 3.3, pieced together the transmission to the revo-like tranny, added RPM a-arms and integy shocks, and modifed battery case to hold a venom 5-cell and a charging mount so I can use the charger that comes with the Revo.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e316/DelRevo/RC%20Photos/T-MaxxRam/18.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e316/DelRevo/RC%20Photos/T-MaxxRam/maxxinternals3.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e316/DelRevo/RC%20Photos/T-MaxxRam/maxxinternals2.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e316/DelRevo/RC%20Photos/T-MaxxRam/maxxinternals1.jpg

[NitroCrackers]

check out what I just won... thus begins the infamous supermaxx build!?!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6063023551&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1

My wallet has just felt the begining... hahhaa

[dcshoelover]

Since the search tool works so great (NOT) and I don't have time to read through 38 pages, I'll just ask. Did anyone else have radio issues with the opti-drive thing in their 3.3? For some reason after I broke mine in, all of sudden my radio system would start disableing and the little red like would flicker on. I took it all apart several times to check for loose connections and batteriesbut found nothing. So I eventually took it out and it the problem is gone. Seems like a great little invention they came up with. Now I have room for a REAL failsafe. Also, are OS #8's long medium plugs? That's what's recommended, and that's what I have used for my .25 in my ofna gtp. I put one in for a tank and didn't seem to have any problems. Any suggestions????

[tmaxx101]

Hey,
Has anyone else had a problem with their antenna being ripped out of the reciever or just ripped in two. This has happened many times with me and i was wondering if sodering it back together is a safe fix. Are there any other ways to fix the ripped antenna besides buying a new reciever.

Chris

[tmaxx101]

Hi all,
New to the forum and wanted to show my first paint job and upgrade to my T-maxx 2.5. Upgraded to a 3.3, pieced together the transmission to the revo-like tranny, added RPM a-arms and integy shocks, and modifed battery case to hold a venom 5-cell and a charging mount so I can use the charger that comes with the Revo.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e316/DelRevo/RC%20Photos/T-MaxxRam/18.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e316/DelRevo/RC%20Photos/T-MaxxRam/maxxinternals3.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e316/DelRevo/RC%20Photos/T-MaxxRam/maxxinternals2.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e316/DelRevo/RC%20Photos/T-MaxxRam/maxxinternals1.jpg





Do you like the integy shocks on your T-MAXX. I was thinking of getting some. Do you bottom out with them.

Chris

[hogghead]

hey guys! does anyone know of a header that can be used on the o.s. 18 tm(on the t maxx) other than the stock one that came with the motor, and doesnt cost nearly 50.00 shipped?

[RCIntel]

Hey,
Has anyone else had a problem with their antenna being ripped out of the reciever or just ripped in two. This has happened many times with me and i was wondering if sodering it back together is a safe fix. Are there any other ways to fix the ripped antenna besides buying a new reciever.

Chris


Gererally sodering is the best way to fix the problem of a ripped antenna but to make sure that it dosen't happen again in the same area you should use heat shrink tubing to cover the repair you made. With this repair you "should" have no problems with your antenna's range as long as you make sure that you do a good job soldering.
Hope it helps..

Jeramy

[RCIntel]

Do you like the integy shocks on your T-MAXX. I was thinking of getting some. Do you bottom out with them.

Chris

I run integy shocks on all my trucks because of their great ajustability and their performance. I think they really look great too and with the right springs they will never bottom out. If you do get some i would reccomend the MSR5 which has a 3.5mm shaft and comes with a set of quality springs out of the box. My MSR5's won't bottom out off an 8ft jump but they can break and i had one break recently after landing too hard on it.

Jeramy

[RCIntel]

Are there any LI-POLY battery packs that will go into a t-maxx battery box and run all the electronics at 6v? i have been looking to upgrade my NI-MH pack and want more run time for each charge.

Jeramy

[Karadjas]

well, one LiPo cell is 3.7v which is too low and two are 7.4v which is too high...

[Delrevo]

My integy shocks are the MSR5's. You gotta run shock oil in the 95-150 wt range but they are fine. Like 'em alot. I have hit the big bike jumps with it and haven't broke one (yet :D )+1 to Karadjas on the li-po batts. I have a venom 1200mah 5 cell in my tmaxx. I use the traxxas charger that is with my revo. After full charge (about and hour) and running about 5 tanks of gas it usually takes 15-20 min to recharge and go again.

[RCIntel]

with the MSR5's i only use 45wt shock oil and tougher springs. whats the difference between the different weights of oil and how does it affect the recoil of the shock itself. Does heavier weighted oil make the shock and the truck tougher to navigate small bumps on a track?

[Delrevo]

The higher oil wts. is what Integy recommends. With the 80 wt. I'm running and stiff springs, it's still a little "bouncy". I just prefer that firm dampening.

[Dan The Mann]

Can i run an os 8 plug in my tmaxx? i just got a 2.5r motor and have no glowplugs left from the last one due to me trading my mlst for it with a hurting motor...

[cody05]

Does anyone have this type of exhaust system for the 2.5 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEMD9&P=Z i want to know how it mounts does it mount all the way at the rear end past the body mount? also is it better then the stock exhaust pipe and header?thanks cody

[RCfroman]

I've seen that pipe used before, and I'm pretty sure it mounts past the body mount. It's most likely better than the stock pipe. If you're looking for a rear exhaust pipe, you might want to consider this one. http://www.rdlogics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=61515

You can get it on ebay for a cheaper price though.

[cody05]

ok thanks

[cody05]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMUB9&P=7 would this be the same thing just a different design ? its tuned is the other one u gave me tuned?

[RC-DRIVER]

I don't know how true it is but, i heard that these pipes biuld up to much back pressure.

[cody05]

I've seen that pipe used before, and I'm pretty sure it mounts past the body mount. It's most likely better than the stock pipe. If you're looking for a rear exhaust pipe, you might want to consider this one. http://www.rdlogics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=61515

You can get it on ebay for a cheaper price though.
ok does it have a pretapped hole for the pressure hose?

[cody05]

i have a problem i got the exhaust pipe of ebay u suggested but there are no mounting instructions anyone know how to mount it?

[cody05]

I've seen that pipe used before, and I'm pretty sure it mounts past the body mount. It's most likely better than the stock pipe. If you're looking for a rear exhaust pipe, you might want to consider this one. http://www.rdlogics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=61515

You can get it on ebay for a cheaper price though.
i got one off ebay but there were no mounting instructions or carb settings can u or ne one here help me

[RCfroman]

Well, to set the carb, just do like you do when you tune your engine. Here's a pic of what to do to mount it on.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i40/puckstealer/th_61515Installation2.jpg (http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i40/puckstealer/61515Installation2.jpg)
it's bigger, just click on it.

[jsob]

Are the wide maxx suspension arms on the 2.5 the same as the suspension arms on the 3.3? Is the foward only conversion for the tmaxx the same whether you have the Pro15, 2.5 or 3.3? I am considering racing my Pro15 maxx and I would be replacing these parts and that is why I am asking.

[Quinton]

All you mentioned is the same, but I would think it would be hard to compete with all the new MT's.

[cody05]

Well, to set the carb, just do like you do when you tune your engine. Here's a pic of what to do to mount it on.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i40/puckstealer/th_61515Installation2.jpg (http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i40/puckstealer/61515Installation2.jpg)
it's bigger, just click on it.
lol thanks but i had it already lol anyway this pipe is the biggest piece of crap i bent everything alread and only did one wheely to high

[rc-trucks]

i would put a nice 3.3 in it then it would do it all day

[rc-trucks]

if you put a better servo in it that might help

[steveo280]

I am trying to decide wether I should get a tmaxx 3.3 or a savage X with the nitro star F4.1 engine. I would appricate some honest advice. thanks in advance.

[rc-trucks]

I am trying to decide wether I should get a tmaxx 3.3 or a savage X with the nitro star F4.1 engine. I would appricate some honest advice. thanks in advance.
i have both. the savage x is good fun it will take all you can give it and more but when it gos wrong it will it will cost you but very strong truck. the t-maxx is faster but not as loud as the savage x it will spend most of the time on the back wheels (if you give it to much) .
but they both love to jump and if you have the money buy both its hard to tell which one i like best but the t-maxx you get more the reverse gear is a must have . it comes with one on the t-maxx but you have to put one in on the savage x. hope this help you

[steveo280]

that helped alot buti have one more question if you dont mind...how would you rate the engine in the savage x? easy to tune? and whe you say the tmaxx is faster is that by alot i mean would i get my doors blown off by my friends tmaxx if i got a savage? ( i wish i could afford both )

[ChuckDeez]

that helped alot buti have one more question if you dont mind...how would you rate the engine in the savage x? easy to tune? and whe you say the tmaxx is faster is that by alot i mean would i get my doors blown off by my friends tmaxx if i got a savage? ( i wish i could afford both )


what tmaxx version does your friend have?

if he has 2.5 you'll blow his doors off. the 3.3 is very fast and it is improved alot. I had both the 2.5 and 3.3.

I want a 3.3 again, but for now, i'll stick with my emaxx.

[steveo280]

a couple friends have the 3.3, all i have rite now is an ofna mbx ultra comp which needless to say is really slow.

[ChuckDeez]

a couple friends have the 3.3, all i have rite now is an ofna mbx ultra comp which needless to say is really slow.


if you get a savage, you can probably hang with them. Or you can get the 3.3 and modify it.

[steveo280]

Well I went with the tmaxx 3.3 I will be breaking it in this week end thanks for all the help guys.

[steveo280]

in your opinion's what are the first hop ups I should do to my new tmaxx 3.3?

[dcshoelover]

Whatever breaks first!! I haven't broken anything yet except I stripped my spur gear the other day. Which brings up my question: going up or down in teeth increases bottem end torque/acceleration? I beleive the stock gear is 54t, so do I want to go mor or less teeth?

[Duster_360]

My first was a rechargeable hump pac so I could stop feeding it alkaline AAs. Next thing - screw kit to get rid of the philips headed wood screw things and convert to socket heads. Stay away fro teh stainless steel - get hardened alloy steel, much stronger and the heads don't strip as easy.

Get some skids - like the RPM ones - that ties the braces together and makes a noticeably stronger truck. Spur strips due to chassis flex or improper mesh. Skids will help with that.

To have more torque, lower top speed, go up on the spur, or down on the pinion. To have more top speed, less torque, go down on the spur or up on the pinion.

Spur - more teeth, more torque, lower top end. Less teeth - less torque more top speed.

[steveo280]

in ya'lls opinion what would be the best after market pipe to compliment the 3.3?

[dcshoelover]

Thanks duster. BTW, what hump pack did you put in there? What charger do you use? And does the hump pack fit inside the battery box?

[steveo280]

well i just broke in my 3.3 this weekend , i'm not sure why but at one point during breakin the temp got up to 302 degrees and its just not as fast as i thought it would be, but oh well its still fun.

[dcshoelover]

A 45 mph monster truck seems pretty fast to me!! Enough so that it can get you in trouble if you can't brake quick enough.

[steveo280]

any one have any suggestions on a pipe for the 3.3?

[steveo280]

ok here's a hard one...i just bought a JR SPORT st125mg hi torque servo for steering my tmaxx 3.3 it's 125oz/in metal geared, does any one know if this will just drop in or will i have to makeit fit?

[Duster_360]

Thanks duster. BTW, what hump pack did you put in there? What charger do you use? And does the hump pack fit inside the battery box?

A 3 on 2 type hump pac, I've been using the HPI ones, about $20. Yes they fit the stock box, its tight, but thats waht you want - keeps it from banging around inside. One other good idea - change the switch to one with a charge lead - no more taking the batt out to charge it, make sure switch is off, and just plug into the charger. I started with the digital Piranha charger.
Be sure not to pinch the wires putting it back together.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFJT1&P=ML
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXH462&P=ML
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=ML

[mattm11186]

hey everyone i was looking to buy a t-maxx 3.3 and i was wondering where i can get a good deal on one

[steveo280]

www.jphracing.com $439.00 best deal arround

[Duster_360]

Unless thats with free shipping, Ultimate hobbies has the best delivered price - $449.95 (free shipping). Shipping can run 20-40 bucks depending on how its shipped. 3rd one on the page -

http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//l129.html

[NitroCrackers]

anyone know if the stock 2.5 diffs can hold oil?

[Duster_360]

Not personally, but reading - they leak, thicker fluid takes longer to leak out than thinner. Leakage tolerable with 20k+ diff oils. That kind of limits your choices.

Were not designed to use diff oil.

[NitroCrackers]

so i guess that leaves me a limited rang of tuning unless I go for some 1/8th diffs? Ill wait and see how my truck handles before I go that route though

[nitro_newbie]

i was wondering if the 3.3 would be to much motor for my 2.5 maxx. i was using it yesterday and was i need more power. so what are the pros and cons of the 3.3 i heard that it uses some parts from the 2.5 like rods and crankcase. and if i wouild neeed to change anythings in my drivetrain. thanx
nitro~newbie:cool:

[Duster_360]

so i guess that leaves me a limited rang of tuning unless I go for some 1/8th diffs? Ill wait and see how my truck handles before I go that route though

Prob Best way to go - I used a real heavy 1:1 axle grease and have been satisfied with the diff action that gives. Added prob with 8th diffs - need to re-gear.


i was wondering if the 3.3 would be to much motor for my 2.5 maxx. i was using it yesterday and was i need more power. so what are the pros and cons of the 3.3 i heard that it uses some parts from the 2.5 like rods and crankcase. and if i wouild neeed to change anythings in my drivetrain. thanx
nitro~newbie:cool:

If 3.3 is really 60% more power, you'll need to upgrade diffs at least and maybe need a full set of cvds. I replacesd a 2.5 with a FR18 and it started stripping diffs on the 1st tank after breakin. Once the diffs were fixed, started twisting drive axles. Full set of steel RD Logics CVDs fixed that.

[nitro_newbie]

so i guess i should stay with a .18 like the O.S. .18cv-r i heard those make more power than stock but they wont trash your tranny. thanx duster_360

p.s and should my piston look like this with that some wat burned part by the skirt????also will polishing the crank and rod/ piston help with tuning or someting or is it just pointless??

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l214/nismor34_1/PhOtOs880.jpg

[mattm11186]

well i just broke in my 3.3 this weekend , i'm not sure why but at one point during breakin the temp got up to 302 degrees and its just not as fast as i thought it would be, but oh well its still fun.

man if you want a fast truck you sould of got the jato 3.3 it tops out at 65+

but it really not a first time user truck hard to keep it from rolling

[mattm11186]

man if you want a fast truck you sould of got the jato 3.3 it tops out at 65+

but it really not a first time user truck hard to keep it from rolling


hey man try puting k&n air filter in it will give you a lil more peak power
and you save money on filters

[Duster_360]

OS18 CV-R is a great engine. RCCA had an 18 engine shoot out - think it was Dec '04 and the CV-R was the winner, beating the Sirio and Fantom 18s. Nothing else was even close.

The discoloration is prob some additive in your fuel, pretty common to see, Blue thunder will turn everything blue (surprise). Polishing that stuff is basically pointless, any increase will be so small, you'll never notice it. You'll get more out of changing pipe and/or air filter than any polishing. Another good performance increase is to get a set of lighter tires and wheels - stockers are relatively heavy and slows accel.

Better filter to run is an RB type buggy filter. I would not run a K&N unless you only run on the street. In dusty conditions, that filter is not made to trap the abrasive dust and you'll shorten your PS life. I run a life-time K&N in my 1:1, but I don't use them in the dirt for my rcs.

[nitro_newbie]

yeah i use the blue thunder fuel and i was wating to seee it blue biut it is normal the only thin i polished was the crank and smooth the transder and made aof a little turbo to it it has better accel now and seems more snappy and i did polish the sleeve and puiston to a mirror finish to see if the stuff still sticks to it. yeah most likely i will get the cv-r when the 2.5 craps out. i do have better tires than stock i have the sportmaxx rims and tires the pin ones. so i do get some gnarly wheelies but i just had to dump money into my 1:1 car so i im short on money so i wont be porting or runnig my truck anytime soon :(

[steveo280]

i have a question about storage...if you know that you are gonna not run your truck for a couple months is there anything extra you should do besides the after run maintence? or how often should you put after run oil in the engine...once a month ...week...???? any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[Duster_360]

If you'er going to put it up for a while, use tblsp or better of ARO thru the carb and turn it over to get it well distributed to coat the insides of the engine. That should do until you get ready to get it back out and run it again. I would also put it up on something so the tires don't flat spot on you.

I've put one up for over a yr that way (wasn't the plan, just worked out that way) and did not have any real probs getting it back to running.