Traxxas T-Maxx Forum v3.0

[steveo280]

kool thanks Duster

[RespirologyRC]

Anyone still race their t-maxx? I do and love it. If you need any info on setups please ask in this forum. I raced my maxx all last season and am doing one final race with it in 2 weeks.

I run a 4 shock setup and a .25 engine

[MaxxForever]

Heres the deal. T-maxx, 3.3 broke in nicely. I was running at the track and the worst luck came upon me. The truck flipped upside down and broke the battery pack wire while the throttle servo was wide open. As i ran across the track the engine ran wide open upside down for at least 5-10 secs. We are talking screaming. I pinched the hose and killed it. Now, the truck starts up great , has good response but when i get past 1/2 throttle and slam on it , the truck bog and acts as if its not getting any fuel. I've been told to retune. I ve retuned, and retuned, and retuned. She runs good most of the time and there will be them times when i mash on it and it bogs again again and again. IS THE ENGINE RUIND OR IS IT JUST VERY TEMPERMENTAL NOW. I dont know im so fed up with is that im fixin to buy another engine. Gives me headaches. Throw me some ideas. What, should i try and do a minor rebuild?

[Duster_360]

Welcome to the forums.

You could have ruined it, - the two things I'd be worried about would be stretched rod and scratched piston/sleeve. Only way to see is take it apart and look. I have not heard th the 3.3 is tempermental like the 2.5, but I have heard there are good ones and bad ones.

You could have an airleak, but only when the carb is pushed past 1/2open. These composite carbs can crack but not leak until there is some torque or stress on carb body that causes crack to get big enough to leak - lean bog. Look at carb with magnifying glass if you take engine apart to check condition.

Only other suggestion, try to get it to do it while supporting it - wheels off ground and check for air leack when it does it by spraying specific areas on engine with water or wd40 - listen for change in engine. Be sure to seal the engine if you take it apart to check it out. Good luck

[tmaxx101]

Hey i'm in the middle of hopping up my t-maxx 2.5. i just got a O.S. 18tm engine and i want a a new pipe but don't know which pipe to get for it. I would like a rear exhaust pipe but side pipe suggestions are good too. Anything suggestions would be great.



also is this a good combo for a rechargable receiver pack

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLDK2&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHFP3&P=7

and what charger do you recommend

would this work

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMHU8&P=7

and this

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL348&P=7

[Duster_360]

This is the one I've been using, a little bigger, will last a little longer -

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFJT1&P=ML

AMain Hobbies sells one of 5 IB1400 - but they show out of stock, otherwise I 'd recommend that one, lasts a lot longer, better qual cells too.

That charger will work, but its a timed charger and will not peak your batt like it should be to get the most in it and the most from it. This is what I started with -

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=ML

Costs more, but it will do more too. Mine charged everything rechargeable I had, AAs, 7.2v stick pacs, 6v rx pacs, and my 9.6v tx pcs. You can still use the adapter, but you'll learn to make yopur own after a little while.

[tmaxx101]

thanks,
and what about a pipe for my o.s. 18tm? i want a tuned pipe, perferably rear exhaust but side is fine. i have the stock pipe now.

[Duster_360]

When OS18TM 1st came out the hot pipe was Sirio Big Bore pipe orig made for Sirio 18. Thats the pipe I'm running and it rocks. I can't find one anywhere though. RZ Boyz was last place selling them that I was knew about.

Besides that one, I really haven't heard of another recommeded. Was like the stock pipe, only a little bigger.

[tmaxx101]

ok so i installed my new os 18tm engine got everything ready to break it in and it won't stay running. whats wrong??? :confused: i tried richening it some, messing with the idle some and it still won't run. i replaced the glow plug and recharged my ez sart. would the weather have an impact on it. it was 55-60 when i was breaking it in. HELP!

[Prinler4256]

Anyone Interested in trading a T-Maxx for my E-Maxx?
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=229812

[Duster_360]

Engine delivered from factory is set rich - very rich. If you've richened it, its prob way way rich now. I know its hard to watch details at time lik ethis, but exhaust is a lot of smoke, right? Its also prob exhausting some oil too.

You are right that cold temps (air is denser) you should richen, but these start really rich to begin with. I bet thats what you're running into - go back to factory and try it again. If won't stay running, do like manual advises, "close needle valve 30degrees and try again".

[Prinler4256]

wrong glow plug - one that is not holding a glow at that temp

fuel not getting to motor smoothly. Check for kinks and pinches.

Take it to the hobby shop :)

[Prinler4256]

Hey guys. I just picked up a 1.5 T-Maxx ... i have not kept up on the hop ups for maxx's. Whats the best way to make it wide? just buy the 2.5 a arms and drive line?

[Duster_360]

You have to change turnbuckles too - widemaxx uses longer turnbuckles. Here's everything -

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAK6&P=7

Could be a good time to buy set of rpm a-arms and use those, but this kit has everything you need.

[Prinler4256]

yeah not bad.... I was looking tho whats those axles i see with the blue boots?

[Prinler4256]

Ok so .... are my axles going to work? i mean its 2 inch longer o each arm....

[Duster_360]

No, actually the width increase going to widemaxx is not that big. You can run the pro 15 axles - they are sliders and they have the length to extend and accomodate the width increase. I can't find the specs on the Pro 15 track width, but measure yours - the WideMaxx suspension track width is 16.5". I think you gain either 1 or 1.5 inches total.

The axles with blue boots are revo axles - I think they can be modded to work, but you'd have to dig that out over on traxxas forums.

[tmaxx101]

anyone heard anything bout the new msr8 integy shocks??

[Prinler4256]

Do i need any mods to use big joe 40's on my maxx or savage?

[Duster_360]

They are heavier and taller than stockers. They will be slower to accel but may have a bit faster top end once you've got them rolling if you engine can pull the taller gearing. Try them and see.

If they make accel too slow, re-gear.

[Prinler4256]

thats it? not gonna tear up anything? make it harder to trn or anything?

[Duster_360]

Been out of town for a few - larger tires - if your strg servo can handle them - no prob, if you're running stock servo - response will be very slow. The tires may hit the frame or the shell, I don't know. If you have epa on your radio, that can be adjusted for, but will give you bigger urning radius. Stock radio - you'll learn to live with rubbing or to stay away from it and use bigger turns.

I've never run BigJoes - I use Sporttrax, reg bow ties and have tried the 40 series BTs - they didn't rub, but was on a TNX, not my Tmaxx.

[Prinler4256]

Question, I just got a used T-maxx version 1.5 in the mail. When i start it up and drive it around it has a delay. there is no low slow speed. its like there is a pause while is spins up.. then pop into gear. my savage doesnt do this... what gives? is it broken?

[nitro_newbie]

i have a question. how much could i get for tmaxx running gear ie tranny chassis tank and motor? tranny is really god and motor as only about 3 and a half gallons still has lots of compression gunna turn my maxx into an emaxx!! looking to get around 160. is that reasonable?? or should i sell the entire truck and just buy a new maxx? and is 160 good for a revo that needs a motor and radio?? thanx alot
nitro_newbie

[maxxmustang]

hav any of you guys had problems stripping engine mounts?

[tmaxx101]

thats it? not gonna tear up anything? make it harder to trn or anything?



i just got some big joe tires for my tmaxx. I love them. I've had them about 4 weeks and nothins gone wrong. The stock steering is a little slower but i fixed that with a high torque servo na now it's great.

[TVG4Life]

Anyone still race their t-maxx? I do and love it. If you need any info on setups please ask in this forum. I raced my maxx all last season and am doing one final race with it in 2 weeks.

I run a 4 shock setup and a .25 engine

I have a T-Maxx 2.5 with Integy Front/Rear Bulk Heads/Braces, Integy rear steering blocks, 50wt oil in stock shocks, motor saver air filter, fuel filter, slimline dual exhaust. Am looking for setups for racing in the MT class. Mostly my local track has Revo's and I think there is a MGT racing there. What all needs to be done to make this a capable race MT. The steering radius is horrible IMO and was thinking of selling it to get another MT or Truggy. But depending on what would be needed to make this T-Maxx a contender will determin that.

Thank you in advance...

[Petox20]

I'm writing this from my PDA because I am bored and away from home, so I hope this doesn't get messed up. I have a T-MAXX 2.5. It has several upgrades, but the main ones are: RPM A-arms, Integy blue MSR4 shocks with 50 wt. oil (1 hole piston), huge air filter, center and steering servo skid plates, titanium pivotballs, aluminum wheel hexes, custom aluminum bumpers w/custom lights, recargeable battery pack, on/off switch w/charging jack, and voltmeter. I also have a wingmount with Muggy wing, just for looks. It is pretty durable and competative. I try to keep it light, but I think I need to upgrade the engine to a 3.3. The good thing about it is that it's good on fuel. I think you should upgrade to the RPM A-arms, which are made of a super-durable plastic. My steering radius was also pretty bad too, but I replaced the bushings with bearings in the steering system and it improved it, but a new stronger servo is needed. If you are going to race your T-MAXX, you need to keep it light and make sure it won't break, but as long as your not a pro, and your track doesn't have any pros racing there, the truck should be fine if you can get around the track cleanly and repeatedly. Hope this helps, and good luck. :wave:

[lou diamonds]

i could use some help boyz. i have a few trucks( savage 4.6, xtm mammoth, losi lst)besides my maxx. i usually take it out beat beat the wheels off it but lately i what to race it. i picked up a k&n air filter, forward only trans, one peice tuned pipe, integy piggyback shocks and some standard crimefighters. my problem is i want to drop the trucks cg for racin. i have a light shock oil. the shocks are in the proper hole position. what next? ive been told everything from cutting out a coil or two from the springs to buying shorter shocks. help me out.

[Duster_360]

One of the usual things to help lower CG is to switch from a hump pac to a flat pac and zip tie it under chassis under the fuel tank. You can also switch to a rustler tank which is flatter and carries less fuel (75cc). These are things Steve Slayden did with his Tmaxx when he was still racing a Tmaxx. Can drop the switch and just connect by hand (charge the same way), drop the batt box altogether, drop the rx box - balloon the rx and zip tie it to back of front shock tower. Get an integy antenna mount for the antenna.

Not sure what you mean by shocks in proper hole position but bottom shock mount needs to be closest to wheel to lower stance and cg. Light oil will not help unless your track is smooth with no bumps - light oil will just let you bottom out. Shock oil weight controls dampening, get it too light and the springs will be all the supension you'll have - it'll be springy. I run 30 or 35 wt. You can put a 10-15mm piece of fuel tubing on shock shafts above the shock piston to adj ride height, but you have to take shocks apart. Not worth the trouble in my opinion.

Stock strg servo is too weak - need min of 160in oz. 645MG is a decent servo for the bucks. Remember to change to a stiffer servo saver when yiu change the servo. Put your stock strg servo on the brakes - its twice as strong as the throttle/ brake servo.

[lou diamonds]

all of those things should help so i guess ill be changin shock oil soon. thanks

[TVG4Life]

By Steve Slayden...

http://www.traxxas.com/support/index.php?action=artikel&cat=143&id=458

[RCfroman]

has anyone used a Phantom Works pipe on their maxx? Are they pretty good? I've been thinking about picking one up.

[maxxmustang]

has anyone used a Phantom Works pipe on their maxx? Are they pretty good? I've been thinking about picking one up.
is it a BB or stock 3.3?

[always_opencarb]

anyone know where the cheapest blue aluminum a-arms can be found? Thanks

BTW does anyone eles think the traxxas message boards a gay?

[Duster_360]

anyone know where the cheapest blue aluminum a-arms can be found? Thanks

BTW does anyone eles think the traxxas message boards a gay?

Cheapest I've seen are the ones by GPM. Not sure you can find them in the US, RCX in HK sells them and they are about 1/2 of what Integy or Nova RC charge for theirs. Will warn you - cheap alum suspension arms will bend easy and you prob won't be able to bend them back. Why not blue rpm?

Forums I belong too all have character. I don't care for TRX forums anymore, I stopped going over there a long time ago. Too childish, too much flaming going on.

[always_opencarb]

yeah everyone over there is like 13 and iam warned up to like 80 for gay crap. It just seems slow around here latly

[maxxmustang]

yeah everyone over there is like 13 and iam warned up to like 80 for gay crap. It just seems slow around here latly
seriously... :( :confused:

[RCfroman]

is it a BB or stock 3.3?
I've still got the old 2.5 in there, but I'll be getting the pipe if it's good after I get a 3.3 engine.

[maxxmustang]

hmm..dont think ive had 1...

[always_opencarb]

iam looking to get axial .28 engine, would what i need to run this? Thanks in advace

[Duster_360]

Going to need a BB adapter kit just to get the motor mounted. NEM sells a kit, hope you've upgraded everything else already. Diffs, clutch, slipper, centers and axles. Tmaxx wasn't designed for BB power.

[Petox20]

Cheapest I've seen are the ones by GPM. Not sure you can find them in the US, RCX in HK sells them and they are about 1/2 of what Integy or Nova RC charge for theirs. Will warn you - cheap alum suspension arms will bend easy and you prob won't be able to bend them back. Why not blue rpm?

Forums I belong too all have character. I don't care for TRX forums anymore, I stopped going over there a long time ago. Too childish, too much flaming going on.

The blue rpm arms are great. Cheaper, stronger, and more forgiving than aluminum. About the gay remarks, thats childish in itself. I'm not sure where you guys are located, but I live in New York City, and the only people that I hear making gay cracks are preteans. Not that I am gay, but I don't think it should be tolerated, personally. Besides, its posible there are gay r/c enthusiasts visiting these threads. Isn't it in the spirit of our hobby to at least tolerate all r/c enthusiasts? Just something to think about.

[Duster_360]

I have a set of the blue rpm arms on one of my Tmaxxes that I have beat and beat and beat. Never any probs with the rpm arms. They have taken a lot of abuse and just never break.

Until you get to something like UE Racer X suspension - all 7075 T6 alum with thick alum only where its really needed, alum arms will just disappoint. I've read stories of them being bent on the first time out.

[RCRacer225]

i have a question. i want to run a 4 shock set up and i want to use OFNA shocks but i dunno which shocks to choose?

[nitro_newbie]

were can i get a big block conversion that is just a chassis and extended braces with extended dog bone for cheap? or can i just get the transmission and diff output cups cuz i can fab my chassis myself. so any help would be cool.
thanx
nitro_newbie

[tmaxx101]

whats the best air filter to run with a tmaxx. I've heard the motorsaver is the best...is it?

[nitro_newbie]

i think i made a decison and im going to put a .18tm in my truck. what have you guys seen that breaks the most i plan to get cvds too. i have 3.3 drive train except the tranny and shafts. i would also like to know what people think on personal accounts about this motor. i heard it is a good motor i just dont like to throw around money as im not made of it. any other things i shuld upgrade in my truck. thanx
nitro_newbie

[tmaxx101]

i think i made a decison and im going to put a .18tm in my truck. what have you guys seen that breaks the most i plan to get cvds too. i have 3.3 drive train except the tranny and shafts. i would also like to know what people think on personal accounts about this motor. i heard it is a good motor i just dont like to throw around money as im not made of it. any other things i shuld upgrade in my truck. thanx
nitro_newbie

i have the os 18tm and i love it alot more power than stock. i suggest getting an aluminum fuel tank if you bash your truck. i hit a curb at around 25mph and shattered the stock one.

[nitro_newbie]

cool thanx was it very finicky with the needles and you think i could use the mcoy mc-59 plugs as i have a shoot load of them. and drivtrain is sstill holding up?

[tmaxx101]

it was easy to tune. i don't see why you couldn't use the mccoy plugs. i just thought of another must have upgrade which is rechargable reciever pack. i've run about 3/4 gallon thu it and the drivetrain seems fine. and i bash my trucks hard!!!

[nitro_newbie]

cool i think ill get that then thak you very much

[zueslilbuddy]

Ok, got my first t-maxx roller and have a question.
Its a wide maxx i know that.
The aluminum part of the chassis is blue, and seems very thick.

Questions:
1. How do i tell which version it is?

2. Does the transmission need to get to certin rpm's to enguage?

3. Is transmission supposed to be positrac?

[Petox20]

This may sound stupid, but does the T-MAXX have sealed diffs?

[maxxmustang]

^noway hose'

[RCfroman]

Ok, so I'm having a problem that I'm stumped on. My Maxx is having a problem where it's over-revving and when it's not, it's running at about half throttle. I'm thinking it's the clutch that needs to be replaced because of the high revving, but why would the clutch cause it to run at half throttle? I have a fail safe that makes it run at half throttle when the engine gets to 270+ degrees and when it starts running half throttle, i look at the temp and it says it's only in the 210-240F range. So does anyone know what could be the problem? Is there anything else that could cause it to run at half throttle?

-Fro

[dcshoelover]

First thing I would do is disable the failsafe to see if it's glitching or not.

[Petox20]

Take the failsafe off and run it, then see if it still has the problem. It could be something else with the radio gear. Also, what is different in the situations when the truck revs from when it runs at half throtl?

[RCfroman]

Take the failsafe off and run it, then see if it still has the problem. It could be something else with the radio gear. Also, what is different in the situations when the truck revs from when it runs at half throtl?
Nothing different really, I'm just running the truck around and all of a sudden it'll go at half throttle.


I just put in new clutch shoes and a new spring because the other ones were shot anyway, and I'll run it tomorrow with the failsafe disabled and see if it still happens.

[Petox20]

Good luck

[RCfroman]

wow, i forgot to post..

It still did it, and I asked the dude at the LHS that I usually talk to and hang around with and he told me it's probably my piston and sleeve...

I figure I'm just going to buy a 3.3 engine now.

[Duster_360]

Did he tell you to get the 3.3 diffs and shafts too? Once you get it broken in if its as powerful as TRX says it is, you'll kill your 2.5 diffs if they are still stock. Soon as you get that fixed, you'll twist up the stock shafts next. At least they are available cheap on ebay.

[RCfroman]

I've got CVD's already all around and I didn't think about stronger diffs. I'll have to look for some then.

[Duster_360]

At least upgrade to the 3.3 diffs - even traxxas recognized the 2.5 diffs wouldn't last. The 2.5 diff cases use only 2 screws at the fron of the case and under torque, they spread slightly letting pinion and ring gear unmesh. Do it a few times and you've got a bad spot on ring gear that will eventually fail or it just strips compeletely. 3.3 plastic cases at least have 4 screws and will stand a little more torque before they allow twisting and problems.

I didn't stop having probs until I replaced plastic cases with some cheapie alum ones and changed to alum diff cup with the larger screws.

[lordoftraxxas]

ok i just bought a dynamite pipe off ebay will it be better then stock on my maxx (will i notice any performance increase)

[RCfroman]

you should, since you got a tuned pipe (assuming it's the one made for the maxx)

[lordoftraxxas]

yeah it is it comes with the manifold too it was off of a show truck so it should be just fine

[RCfroman]

then yeah, you should notice a power increase

[dackerman]

@ lordoftraxxas

You may also notice a power decrease in either the high or low end. When I got my associated tuned pipe I noticed a HUGE increase in low end power, but I lost a little bit on the high end. I don't run the Traxxas engine (it's a .15 OS CV, I have the original Maxx) but your mileage will vary with pipe to pipe.

Either way it will be better than a stock pipe.

[Blazinwarrior78]

Hey all, I recently volunteered myself to work on a friends Tmaxx. His Ez start is not engaging and turning over the motor. Is failure of the one way bearing a cause of this condition? I seen a lot of one way bearings for sale on ebay and think that over time the bearing can fail. The starting motor spins freely when pressing the start button. I figure some of you have had this problem before, any help would be great.

[zueslilbuddy]

Yes it likely it is the oneway.
Before replacing it try taking it out cleaning it in alchol then spray it down with WD-40.
and clean up the shaft also.
This usually takes care of a slipping oneway.
This is a lot of the time caused by flooding the engine often.

[Blazinwarrior78]

Alright, I cleaned the one way with some bearing cleaner, and then relubed with my Tufoil Needle oiler. I cleaned up the area on the chassis cuz its a mess! That took care of the starting problem. So now I find the next problem. I primed the tank by blowing in the line that connects to the pipe, but it still wouldn't run. I added a bit of fuel thru the carb and it fired up and ran for about 2 seconds, then I relealized its 2am and my daughter is in bed, so I shut it down. The header connection to the pipe is missing its zip tie, would this cause it to not get fuel, I mean, its connected good cuz it took a second to get it disconnected by pulling it off when I removed the engine from the chassis? I am going to add a new ziptie tomorrow and eliminate that possability. Next question is, where do I set the carb, I double checked it when it wouldn't start, and the needle was about a 1/2 turn out from bottoming out. I turned it out 2.5 from bottom, added fuel thru the carb and it started? Thanks for the help guys, its always appreciated. :-)

[dackerman]

I've never primed an engine like that. What I usually do is put my finger over the exaust so it blocks it, and pull on the starter a couple of times. This SHOULD pull fuel into the carb. If this doesn't work you have an air leak somewhere.

The first step I would take would be to replace all of your fuel lines. There can be very tiny holes in the line that could cause air leaks. If that doesn't work you may have a leak in your motor somewhere. When I got back into the hobby this happened to me, so I had to tear apart the motor and reseal everything (the gaskets were shot). I went to Autozone and bought some Permatex gasket maker (http://www.caswellplating.com/permatex/permgasketmakers.html) and that fixed my problem. You could also have a leak in your fuel tank, but it's unlikely.

A zip tie around the header joint shouldn't fix your problem. If the engine starts when you pour fuel directly into the carb and then stalls, there is a leak somewhere in your fuel system. Does your motor have a LSN? The default setting for the HSN, at least on my motor, is 2 1/2 turns out from all the way in.

Hope this helps.

[Blazinwarrior78]

alright, I'll check the fuel lines and tank also. The only reason I checked the high speed needle is because it has the "thumb wheel" type thing on it and can be adjusted by hand, where the other settings need a small screw driver. Since this is my buddy's truck, I wanted to make sure at least the hsn was close to being set right, cuz he could of just started turning it because it wouldn't run- not knowing it was the oneway brg that was preventing it was starting. I'll get more into it today, when its not 2am, I'll get it figured out. Thanks for the help.

[Blazinwarrior78]

On traxxas webpage, the upgrade from the .15 to the 3.3 there is a kit, model #4900, I need to know what comes with it, to see if I ordered the right parts at my local hobby shop. My buddy got a 3.3 from the shop owner, and he ordered individual parts for the upgrade, I'm mostly worried about getting the throttle linkage right. anybody out there done a .15 to 3.3 upgrade?

[Duster_360]

That kit, #4900 is change .15 to 2.5.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAJ7&P=7

Everything in the kit is pictured and listed in the tech notes. I can't see any reason this wouldn't work with a 3.3.

[Blazinwarrior78]

Thanks for the link, I tried searching traxxas.com and nothing would come up by searching 4900, didn't think to search tower :cool:

[crazy4wdracer]

cool! thanks!!!

[cody05]

hey i got a question for you people i have a a t maxx 2.5 the slipper clutch is shot i am going to replace it but heres the question if i put a small gear on it will it go faster and a bigger gear slower? would i have to regear the whole truck then?

[Blazinwarrior78]

smaller spur is faster but off the line will be weaker, larger spur will be top speed slower, but will have better off the line. Larger clutch bell is faster, but slower accelleration, ect. ect.

[crazy4wdracer]

ok i just bought a dynamite pipe off ebay will it be better then stock on my maxx (will i notice any performance increase)


I have a dynamite pipe for my maxx too and it has much more low end power than the stock pipe, fuel mileage is a little better too.

[dscjester]

hey guys, got a guestion. I got a tmaxx w/ the trx 2.5. I wanted 2 swap out the motor, n I don't know which one would be the best 2 use. The truck is a basher but I love speed. So I have been thinking of the trx 3.3 or the os 18tm. Will the 2 speed tranny hold up? N what should I do with the diffs n shafts. thanks for ur help guys.

[Duster_360]

I swapped to a FR18 a couple of years ago and as soon as I got thru with breakin, it started shredding rear diffs - ring and pinions. After rebuilding the 3rd time, I realized I needed to do something else. The prob is the plastic diff case - 2.5s have only two screws at front and the diff collar at the back. Will twist under torque and that lets R&P pull apart and strip. 3.3 diff case has added the other 2 screws, but I'm still hearing about probs with those - its still a plastic case. If you just upgrade to any cheapie alum diff cases and collars, then you shear those tiny 2.5mm screws that hold the ring gear to diff cup.

My setup - cheap alum diff cases (I bought a set of gpm ones, they're soft, but they do the job), alum diff collar, alum diff cup and modded ring gear to use 3mm screws and proper shimming. Without shimming, diff won't last - there is too much slop. FLM diff cup comes with shims and modded ring gear plus a new pinion. As soon as I got the rear fixed, I started having same prob with front diff. Had to do the same thing.

OK, home free? No, now I was twisting drive shafts. I upgraded to a full set of steel cvds, but now there's a new option - go with the 3.3 axles and the new trx set of centers. To use the the 3.3 axles requires the 3.3 knuckles and TBs for them to fit, they're different. Ebay, ebay ebay, LOL!! It may be cheaper to go with steel cvds - I got a full RD Logics set on Ebay for $75 that included extra parts and they've held up fine so far.

I'm running an OS18TM now and it makes noticeably more power than the old Fantom18. The good news is the trans has been OK thru all this, I did drop reverse and go with a FOC. I've got another Tmaxx thats still stock and have bought a 3.3, but justy haven't gotten it swapped out yet so I can't compare the two. The price on TM has come down and as good as that one has been about tuning, starting and idling, its hard to beat.

[dscjester]

Thanx for ur help. I am new to nitro and i'm loving it when it runs. My 2.5 is being very difficult. It would start up and run then would crap out after 5 minutes or so, and wouldn't restart. Unless it sat overnight, then the same thing. So I finally broke down the motor and found the piston cracked. So I rebuilt it got her out n running but couldn't keep her running. I had to give it light throttle even with idle screw all the way in. Once I would let go, she no go. My new guestions r. Do u think the block is warpped or did I mess up? And how can I prevent this from happening again? And how does this happen? Thanx again fellow r/c guys.

[crazy4wdracer]

will these fit on my pro .15 tmaxx?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220133223154&ssPageName=MERC_VI_RCRX_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT&refitem=220132731017&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=active_view_item&usedrule1=CrossSell_LogicX&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget

[Duster_360]

Thanx for ur help. I am new to nitro and i'm loving it when it runs. My 2.5 is being very difficult. It would start up and run then would crap out after 5 minutes or so, and wouldn't restart. Unless it sat overnight, then the same thing. So I finally broke down the motor and found the piston cracked. So I rebuilt it got her out n running but couldn't keep her running. I had to give it light throttle even with idle screw all the way in. Once I would let go, she no go. My new guestions r. Do u think the block is warpped or did I mess up? And how can I prevent this from happening again? And how does this happen? Thanx again fellow r/c guys.


Not being able to control idle using the idle screw means you've got a tuning prob. I would set needles back to stock and re-tune.

http://www.traxxas.com/support/index.php?action=artikel&cat=88&id=450

If teh block was warped, I doubt it would be running. Did you seal it up when you put it back together? Any time I take one apart, I seal it up on re-assembly - backplate to crankcase, carb to crankcase, and carb screw (both sides). The cracked piston may just be bad luck or it may have been too lean, got hot and thats what resulted. Hard to tell with seeing it. Does it smoke when its running, is fuel dripping out the exhaust? 2.5's have a small sweet spot where they run best. It takes small changes and patience with tuning to get in that sweet spot. Outside of that, it runs, but poorly to not at all depending on how far off tuning is. If this is your 1st nitro, track down the trx dvd - it will help, well worth the time.

[Duster_360]

will these fit on my pro .15 tmaxx?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220133223154&ssPageName=MERC_VI_RCRX_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT&refitem=220132731017&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=active_view_item&usedrule1=CrossSell_LogicX&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget

Think so, see no reason for them not to. The differences between pro15 and teh 2.5 was length of suspension arms, TBs and driveshafts. That shouldn't affect soemthing that goes on the end of the axle. They both use 14mm hex on the wheels.

[dscjester]

thanx guys, I didn't seal it with any kind of silicone, but I did reseal w/ new o-rings. I'm pretty sure I ran it 2 lean. When it is running it does smoke n dripping fuel out of exhaust like it should. I do have the dvd from when I purchased it. I just got my new os18tm, starting over. I do have one question, when it was running and I hit my trigger foward(ie brake/reverse), when truck was running but not moving, it would stall. It seems like the servo is almost closing the carb further then when the servo is in neuteral. I'm trying 2 give u guys as much info as possible. thanx again.

[crazy4wdracer]

what do i need to do to convert my pro .15 t-maxx to slide carb and put this engine in? https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=PEK6060

[crazy4wdracer]

is this all that i would need to convert my truck to slide carb?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=230158046594&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=013

[Duster_360]

This is what TRX sells to do that. Compare them, but looks like yours is what you need. It has a lot of extra stuff you won't be needing.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAJ7&P=7

Is that engine a side or rear exhaust? If its a side ex, you're set. If its a rear exhaust, you'll need header and etc. I'd put bearings in the bellcrank and not those bushings while you're at it.

[crazy4wdracer]

it is side exhaust

[Duster_360]

Sounds like you're set to me as long as the old header pipe will work on the new engine.

If I remember correctly, you will have to drill 3 holes in your chassis to install throttle bellcrank post. There used to be a template on TRX site to properly locate the holes. The template they made makes it easy.

http://www.traxxas.com/support/howto/pdf/chassis-drill.pdf

[cody05]

I have a problem i bought a team integy spur gear for my 2.5 tmax the balls that came with the gear wont stay in the gear. what do i do? hre is what i got: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=+&FVSEARCH=T3697

[zueslilbuddy]

you'll have to stand your max on its nose put on the spur then set the balls in the holes and assemble while truck is on its nose.
This is one of the times having 3 hands would be handy :D

[Duster_360]

Either that or pull thetrans out and then you can turn it any way you need it to get the slipper together.

zueslilbuddy's way will take less time if you can find some help. Use some suture clamps to put the balls in the holes when its that time. Make sure to get he plates lined up, good luck.

[RC Newbcake]

Ok! I've finally gave in a decided to get a T-Maxx. Heres a list of things I think would need to race the truck and not worry too much about breaking, what do you think? Need anything else?

-Servo-air358 (Have) Move the stock steering to throtle

-Servo protecter (Have)

-Oneway(fwd only gear in tranny) (Have)

-steel spur gear (Have)

-Front ti skid plate (Have)

-5 cell receiver pack (Have)

-tires??? which ones

What about a rear skid plate and the center plates are they really needed? I think lighter is better! I don't want to race a tank. Are the stock shocks up to the punishment of racing? What type should I get when the need arises? Traxas big bores or some other type?
stock shocks will do the job . but i dont see why you are gona run a 2.5 you should run a rtr stock 3.3 like i got 1.5 months ago

[NitroCrackers]

wow, all my posts just dissappeared... ***?

[NitroCrackers]

She is almost done, just need a fuel tank and need to figure out how to link the brakes to the servo... anyone with predator experiece please help.

http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/2830/mytmaxx002ug3.jpg

http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/7343/mytmaxx003qy7.jpg

http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/8784/mytmaxx005af9.jpg

http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/6097/mytmaxx006fu4.jpg

http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/9513/mytmaxx007yn2.jpg

http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/3941/mytmaxx008ii9.jpg

http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/5629/mytmaxx009wt9.jpg

[RCfroman]

that's pretty sweet!

[Maxx-Damage]

but i dont see why you are gona run a 2.5 you should run a rtr stock 3.3 like i got 1.5 months ago
I dont see how that would help him, a experianced driver with a 2.5, can beat a newb with a 3.3.

Nitrocrackers-Nice rig, i like the predator chassis alot. If all else fails maybe check the traxxas forums. A few guys have em over there.

[Duster_360]

This were sent to me to help me with same ques about linkage (hope this works....) hope it helps, I have some more, so pm me if you need them.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Drpetro/Predator/Dace_1.jpg

As far as a tank goes, it was designed to run an ofna tank - thisis the one that came with my orig kit

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBM24&P=7

[helotaxi]

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Drpetro/Predator/Dace_1.jpg


I see two problems with that setup:

1) The brakes are relying on the brake linkage working in compression. The rod will bend, less than ideal.

2) Depending on the throw length on everything, full throttle could apply brake as well when the collar on the brake rod is pulled into the brake lever.

I'm about to rebuild the linkage setup on my Thunder chassis (same layout as the Pred) and I'll get pics up later today.

[Duster_360]

Helo has some good points, this would prob be easier to set up and resolves issues he raises -

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Drpetro/Predator/Vills_Pred_linkage.jpg

Knowing whose Pred the 1st pic came from, I know that setup worked and worked well. Preds are light and short wheelbased and you need something to soften the brake hit or something so you'll have some 'feel' to the brakes or you'll wind up spending a lot of time flipping it back over on its wheels.

[helotaxi]

Use a spring instead of fuel tubing on the brake linkage. Makes the brakes much more progressive.

[zueslilbuddy]

Helo has some good points, this would prob be easier to set up and resolves issues he raises -

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Drpetro/Predator/Vills_Pred_linkage.jpg

Knowing whose Pred the 1st pic came from, I know that setup worked and worked well. Preds are light and short wheelbased and you need something to soften the brake hit or something so you'll have some 'feel' to the brakes or you'll wind up spending a lot of time flipping it back over on its wheels.


I WANT YOUR TRANSMISSION AND I WANT IT NOW!!!!!!

Nice set up you got there WOW

[Petox20]

I see that some guys are using ball bearing balls instead of slipper pegs. I asked the guy at the hobby shop that I am friends with, and he said that it's not a good idea because it would be metal on metal when it should have the metal up against the slipper pegs. I am wondering if it actually works, and if so, what difference does it make? Thanks.

[Duster_360]

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/slipper-pegs/tm-slipper-pegs.asp

The steelballs wear the plates and not the balls (they're harder), stock setup the pegs wear out - minimum, run 12 pegs, its a cheap, effective mod. With teh balls you have to sand or replace the plates once they get grooved by the balls. Try the balls and see if you like it better. I didn't.

[RespirologyRC]

That Predator pic with the servo is a bad idea. One hit on the side and your servo is toast.

[RespirologyRC]

For the Predator here's a good setup

2.0 toe in rear
0 toe front,
white (UE) springs all around
40wt AE oil for colder days
50wt AE for hotter days
Let the truck sit with dog bones level or have chassis slightly below level
GET a WING it Makes a difference!!!!!!!!!
Front differ 7k oil, rear diff 1-3K oil

This should get you going pretty nicely!!!!!

Here's a pic of my thunder reving:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDp8ZEgDARg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8__yzoFEzCk

[Duster_360]

That Predator pic with the servo is a bad idea. One hit on the side and your servo is toast.


Only if you're going to get hit. Otherwise its fine. I have no need to race anything or anybody. Been there, done that, way past it.

[zueslilbuddy]

Well tearing down my maxx for winter got this far cleaned a little and snapped a few shots.
I know the painted plastic rear a-arms look like ka-ka
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/T-Maxx%20rebuild/IMG_1341.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/T-Maxx%20rebuild/IMG_1333.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/T-Maxx%20rebuild/IMG_1334.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/T-Maxx%20rebuild/IMG_1339.jpg
Need to find a set of old style New Era Blue uppers and lower Integy silver super duty lowers to match the front, aluminum shock mounts Full Force or ACNCM preferably and a front Integy Pinless Shock Mounts to match the rear.

[Petox20]

I received some awesome upgrades for Christmas. I already had a whole bunch, but I got some bead-locks and 40 series road rage tires for the street. I got OOC functional hood scoop and grill screen, to get fresh air for my engine to breath, and the re-released pro-line steering kit, but I haven't installed it yet. I got some GPM Racing sway-bars, but they don't fit the thicker RPM A-arms (even though they said that it would fit virtually all aftermarket arms, and RPM's are pretty damn close to the stock ones). Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[GT Freak]

Well, hello. first time poting on this thread. Just picked up my first t-maxx. It didnt come with: body,remote,starter,engine. I think its the version that came with the .15 in it. Lookswise, its been well used. Bought it 4 $75. Just wonder what it will cost to get it running again? here another pic: http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc97/Kruser_Kng/pic0053.jpg

[DADDIEMIKE]

I've started building a custom Maxx. It consists of extended chassis and aluminum a arms, metal gears in trans, and a Hotbodies 46 engine. This engine is huge compared to the stock engine. I have diven only once and on wet grass it snapped the cvd. I am upgrading to steel cvds This thing is a power house. The rated hp is around 5hp.
http://www.rcjunkyard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9716[IMG]

[Petox20]

If anyone has a Pro-Line steering kit for your MAXX, please tell me how tense you run the spring (measurements would be good). Thanks.

[GT Freak]

heres my pair of maxx's.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc97/Kruser_Kng/Pic007.jpg

T-maxx is the 1st gen version, working on it now. :D

[gotjeep]

Got some ue springs, DD wing mount, and some proline road rages. just did some testing on the new stuff, springs are aweosme, and the tires hook up almost too well! Truck runs great but need to mess with the gearing cuz im getting all acceleration but no top end speed...

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u50/jbrkick/IMG_0387.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u50/jbrkick/IMG_0382.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u50/jbrkick/IMG_0386.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u50/jbrkick/IMG_0376.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFEGs_mD1YQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SkvDrO9BWjk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8IPuQvub6A

[GT Freak]

as u can see, my WB is ALWAYS clean!!! hate a messy area!

[MA70_Ed]

hey all, just wondering if there's any difference between the 1st gen and 2.5 tmaxx transmissions.. gear ratios the same? i recently picked up a 2.5 maxx tranny for free but it wont shift into second, any tips on getting it right? seems like it's stuck in 1st.

[GT Freak]

wow,your lucky!!

[MA70_Ed]

well it wasnt really free cause i needed to get the $20 part to get the second gear to work... but still, $20 is cheaper than $150 for the whole tranny.

[GT Freak]

ya know it!! pic of broke rear bulks (3rd set) going aluminum.http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc97/Kruser_Kng/Pic019-1.jpg this was on my e-maxx.

[Duster_360]

There's an ebay seller that sells used Greater Assembly (GA) bulks at a very reasonable price. GA makes 2 kinds a set of 6061 and a set of 7075. The 6061 will take an incredible beating before breaking. I've never seen a set of 7075 GA bulks broken. There is a good reason these were sold by UE for the SM before vbs came out - they're strong! The 7075's have the GA logo stamped on side, the 6061's are plain.

They will polish up pretty much like new. I'l dealt with hime plenty and he's reliable. Search on supermaxx on ebay to find him.

[GT Freak]

well,
got the new pro 15 installed,friday
figured out the brakes sat
got it 2 start sun.

new prob: wont engage to go forward OR reverse. not sure what to do now. HELP please.

[Quinton]

if the servo is moving then you probably have a broken shifter peg.

[sparkymlg92]

can someone put up pictures on how the wheels should be aligned on a t-maxx 2.5 and not the ones from traxxas because those are just from the top and i want to know that the alignment make the car go straight.
PLEASE HELP BEEN TRYING TO GET MY WHEELS ALIGNED RIGHT FOR 3 DAYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[GT Freak]

Went bashing yesterday (1 tank only) heres the result:
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc97/Kruser_Kng/Pic011-2.jpg

[sparkymlg92]

there is a new t-maxx 3.3 but i dont see any difference other then the body

[buholoco]

Hey everyone!
I'm usually in the old HPI Nitro Rush forum, but my friend wanted to get into R/C and he chose as his first vehicle a T-Maxx. Yeah, I know. Anyway, I helped him select what I thought was a good deal on ebay and I have almost worked out all the kinks but we're having trouble with the engine tuning. I'm in El Paso, TX so it's about 4500 ft. above sea level. I had it tuned properly according to Traxxas instructions, and it was running nice last week but the settings ended up richer than "break in" settings. A couple days later we took it to the track and it ran like crap. It also eats glow plugs, I'm on the 3rd one and every time I try to tune it, its different! I've had a local shop check it out and they said it was ok, it just needed a tune. Is there a trick to the 3.3 as far as tuning goes? Is it real sensitive to weather? HEEEEELP!

[T-MAGRT]

Good Morning Every1,
This is my first time joining a forum. I have a 2007 3.3 t-maxx. After running it for a while the first thing to go was the reverse. It kept slipping. But I was a fool and ran it until it did worse. (Trying to make my 4 yo son happy) When I start it without the radio on, it will idol, but when I turn the radio on, it tries to take off.(holding truck off the ground) As soon as I put it down or try to start it on the ground it shuts off or will not start.

I have read the manual and set all back to factory settings, but it didn't help. Also saw a tooth missing on the larger gear. Any help or suggestions would be great. I'm ready to just go buy another one and use this as spare parts.

[Petox20]

As a rule, T-MAGRT, you should never start your truck without the transmitter and receiver on. Turn the transmitter on, then the receiver, and then start it up.
As for the truck idling and then accelerating when you turn the radio on, your throttle trim is off, or your throttle linkage is off. Try turning back the throttle trim and see if that works, and if you run out of trim (you can't turn the knob any more), you need to adjust the linkage.
Your spur gear probably lost teeth because your gear mesh is off. Setting gear mesh is not easy, and takes practice because there is almost no margin for error. If you can get to a hobby shop, get a new spur gear while you are there, install it there, and have them show you how to set the gear mesh. It is hard to try to explain it over the internet, but the method that seems to work best is to get one of those plastic bag things that parts like screws come in (the kind that have cardboard on the top, and is stapled closed). Get an edge piece, so you have a piece of double thickness. The double thickness of this material seems to be the perfect guage for this. Cut it to a manageable size (but keep the edge in tact). Loosen the engine mount screws, and feed the double thickness plastic through the spur and pinion gear where they mesh. Get it so that you can rotate the gears, and pull on the plastic and get the gears to turn without much resistance, yet not too loose. Then tighten the engine mount screws. Take the plastic out, it should have imprints from the gears' teeth. Rotate the gears, they should rotate rather freely, but not too loose. No gear is perfect, and each has a high point. Rotate the gears until you feel this high point, and make sure that the gears still rotate without much resistance at that point. If the mesh is good for the rest of the gear, but not for this high point, when the gears are rotating when the truck is running, you will have problems.
This is a rather lengthy and detailed post, but I hope it helps you. It is hard to explain setting gear mesh without showing you, and this is the best I can do.If you need any more help, just post your questions. You need a new spur gear, and I suggest you get it from your LHS and have them show you, you will be better equipped to set the mesh yourself next time. I hope this helps and that you work out all the bugs and get it running well! The T-MAXX is a great truck, even though many people will say otherwise. My truck has held up great over the years, has performed well, and has never let me down. I hope you enjoy your truck and that it is good to you, because some people find the engine hard to tune. My truck was hard to tune sometimes, but after I installed the second fuel tank on my MAXX, the engine is a breeze to tune and performs better than ever. That's a great mod. Anyway, good luck!