Xray T1 forum

[aspiringrcracer710]

I dont know if there is a forum for this but I figure I might as well start one

[aspiringrcracer710]

Calling all XRAY T1 owners. SHow em off here

[Alacrity]

Where did you guys manage to find the T1? The few places that know what it is *never* have it in stock. Ordering one takes several months. Are there any dealers that do mail-order and actually carry an inventory?

[krayzie]

I got mine from Brucknerhobbies. Stormer hobbies has them too..

krayzie http://www.plauder-smilies.de/tales/grim.gif

[Alacrity]

I just placed an order with Stormer Hobbies, they actually have them in stock (!!) as of this writing.

I was very happy to find the kit in stock after about 4 months of searching and repeated begging and pleading with my local Serpent dealers. Of course now I'll need to start scouring the earth for the parts and hop-ups. :)

[Usagi]

I am a Xray owner! Love the Car, Love the support, Love LOVE LOVE! I am so happy with this car, I going to sell many of my older cars and support the XRAY. I am a owner untill the end. :) :) :)

[ 08-21-2001: Message edited by: Usagi ]

[PCC]

I got my XRay running last night. I got the last one at our LHS with the tools. I installed a new Cyclone TC2, Trinity D4, Futaba coreless standard servo (forgot model #), and a RX that I had laying around. Wire-tied a stickpack to the chassis and drove it up and down my street. All I can say is WOW!!! :eek: This thing is fast! It was after dark so I only did a few passes but I'll get a chance to really drive it tonight after work.

Can't wait until the next race season starts to take this car out and see what I can do. It's nearly perfect out of the box!

[Mracer63]

I have a new XRay for sale...still in factory sealed packaging...for the person looking for them! only $290 w/new stratus body

send me an email if want one. Mracer63@aol.com;)

[ivannaxray]

i have been reading up on this car (mostly drooling on the pictures) but i was wondering if any of you had any race experience with your car and how was it. Second, i have no experience with on-road cars i do have an off-road Losi, but i was wondering if this would be a good car.

[Arnoud]

:D Sorry, it's not a good car.... it's the best. Drive it and love it is all I can say. It does look as good (and is finished as good) as it drives. Just read the RC Car Action November 2001 article and know what I mean!!

[ivannaxray]

that does it i'm convinced. now here comes the shameless begging of my girlfriend and parents. I will let you know how i do when i get it. I am trying to convince my roommate to get the Losi XXX-s so i can play with his too. (woohahahahaha) :D

oh one more thing can ya all post pics of your cars, that would definitely be sweet thanx

[Usagi]

I am losing interst in my xray. I just upset a little on the way they are dealing with some of the non usa buyers. I am in japan and I seeing a trend like other r/c coming getting fat after breaking into a market.:(

[diesel757]

I am seriously considering the X-ray T-1. Since the first time I had seen the T-1 in the magazines, I have wanted one. It looks very competitive. It looks well balanced, light and rigid. This will be my first touring car purchase. Since my LHS doesn't carry the T-1, I'm leaning toward the XXX-S. It will have much better support(parts,hop-ups,etc.)than the T-1. Has anyone had any problems getting replacement parts, not including online or mail order. Does anyone own a xxx-s, tc3, or pro3 that also drives a X-ray. How do any of these really compare to the T-1. What comes in the kit? Mracer is your kit still for sale?

[Arnoud]

:D I do have both..... The XRay is build very good and has the most butifull parts. I like the XXXS for its inovative ideas. If you, however, look at the idea behind the XRay this car really needs the support of as many drivers as possible. In addition Mario Hudy is a great guy who is willing to improve the car based on drivers experience.

If you have a Serpent dealer in the US you will be able to get the parts as well.

[Usagi]

The Xray is a hack of a car, I also own a 414 tamiya(Japan version) and a pr02 (I never give up this baby)
But the Xray is was pasted alot of other touring cars, I was also looing at the xxxs but what they are selling them here for i said forget it.

[ivannaxray]

Here in the US the XXX-s is a lot cheaper than the T1, the T1 comes with more aluminum goodies and it is a lot more tunable. I was talking to someone on-line and they said that the T1 isn't a good first tourer b/c of the tunability a better deal would be either a TC3 or a TA04-R:cool:

[Usagi]

One thing i love about the Xray is the ability to turn the car. Yes its hard but once you learn the skills, you can apply them to any other car. There are many great touring cars, expection of the pro3 ( Yuck) but the pro2 is far better then it latter brother.

[ivannaxray]

I was thinking that although tuning the car may be difficult the fact that it includes the tuning manual would make it easier than the cars that are less tunable and don't include the setup help. Plus the fatc you can win with your car on any trackis great. After all it doesn't matter whether you win or lose but losers don't get t-shirts (by the way i got that from a t-shirt in case you couldn't tell):p

[Usagi]

No T-shirts! :(

[JimmyMac]

I've been looking at the X-Ray also. Possibly a 2nd car to go with my Yokomo MR4TC Special (awesome car.) I was wondering on the one/way deal. I like the way the Special has the dual one/ways and I was wondering if that's possible with the X-Ray. Also, anyone know of when the new chassis will come out with the battery layout on one side? I think that would be the only way I'd get one (I'd hate to cut up my batteries again.) Hmmm what else... Belt life. Anyone have any problems with the belts lasting? I direct this question mainly to Mod racers out there. Hmm I think that's about all for now... I'm sure I'll think of some more later...

Mike :D

[Usagi]

anyone using or well be using the options xray is releasing? If you plan or will be please post them, I am wondering if they workingfor you. If so I might get them. Thank you:p

[ben3_16]

I like what you guys are sating about the car. I can't wait to get mine. I won the free one that XRAY is giving away. I have talked with the company a couple times and they are very nicee and professional. I can't wait to build the car and get some track time.

[Usagi]

Thsy mostly 98% are great, but you need to keep on their tails on issues.

[HauntedMyst]

I am sending a check for one of these tomorrow. I got one with all the set up stuff. I doubt I will race it, that is what my TC3 is for and I have to be honest, I doubt it is a best racer then the TC3, but sweet moses it sure is something to look at! If I do race it, does anyone have any set up advice for a short twisty track? If I run it, it will be for stock racing.

[xrayracer]

I have had the X-ray for 3 months and it has been and easy car to drive. Tuning is relatively easy and very little is needed. If you are a club racer this makes winning very simple. I am pleased to see others enjoying the simplicity and accuracy of the Xray design. Yes it is an amalgamation of many companys ideas rolled into one. but it takes the fit and finish by mario to make it come together with as little effort as possible. If some of the motor, battery and team drivers package were put together on a longer term basis, you would see this car as a world beater.

[Usagi]

HM, you buying one? good luck to you:) Its a work love:D

[HauntedMyst]

So no one has any set ups?

[Arnoud]

:D If you want to find set ups, go to

www.mytsn.com

There are already a lot at set ups, but as a XRay VIP member you'll even find more in the VIP room.

[HauntedMyst]

2 of the 3 Xrays I bought arrived today and they are very much "like new". This car really is beautifully made. The fit and finish is amazing. I was playing with the set up stuff and can see how they would make car set up a breeze (though I am not sure what the decal sheet is for other then straight line reference.

Man, the car is so stunning I'm having a difficult time imaging scratching the car actually racing it!

A few things surprized me about it though. I am surprized that Hudy/Xray/Serpent would be so cheap and not include a belt tensioner. I have yet to meet the dual belt that doesnt need one. I'm also surprised they call it a 'luxury' touring car yet they cheaped out and gave the car plastic shocks. Heck, FT T3 and even the Ofna OB4 come with threaded aluminum shocks and both are less expensive. Lastly, I wish it came with a back bumper like the TC3. I'm sure its durable but it would be nice to have that extra layer of protection.

[Usagi]

HM. its not that they are cheap, they car does not need one. Why in the world did you buy three xrays?

[Usagi]

Hm, I have been using those plastic shcoks are they work great. Alum ones ok, but like mario said they are not needed.
I ran a basic setup, with stock parts.

[ivannaxray]

Usagi what is raced at your track and what wins the majority of the time. I know my closest LHS poeple run TC3 and win but the other LHS that I prefer has the Losi stuff, and the X-ray but they don't have as many of the replcement parts.

[Usagi]

Many guys run tc3 and tamiya 414, EC4,kyosho, xxxs, T4 Ova and yokomos.
its depends on the day and the condition of the tracks.

[HauntedMyst]

As for it not needing the belt tensoner, I will have to wait and see. As far as the aluminum shock bodies go, to me releasing a "luxury" touring car with out aluminum shocks is the equivelent of Honda releasing the NSX with a 3 cylinder economy engine. They could do it, but would it meet your expectations?

[ivannaxray]

the NSX is produced by Acura just so you know. (acura is a subsidary of honda, but that would be like a plymouth viper) just thought I would inform you.

[Shawn_S]

Originally posted by ivannaxray
the NSX is produced by Acura just so you know. (acura is a subsidary of honda, but that would be like a plymouth viper) just thought I would inform you.

ivannaxray, a plymouth is a chysler. But a Chrysler a not a Plymouth.

It like a toad is a frog but a toad is not a frog. get it:)

[ivannaxray]

no

[HauntedMyst]

Actually, their DaimlerCryslers now, probably to be just Daimler soon enough since the Germans are making the decisions (thank god). And thank you for the information ivanna, I am aware of the Acura's structure. Ultimately, it's a Honda, just as the Lexus is ultimately a Toyota.

[Usagi]

Originally posted by HauntedMyst
As for it not needing the belt tensoner, I will have to wait and see. As far as the aluminum shock bodies go, to me releasing a "luxury" touring car with out aluminum shocks is the equivelent of Honda releasing the NSX with a 3 cylinder economy engine. They could do it, but would it meet your expectations?

HM, again I have been running these shocks since march. I had not problems with them. I don`t understand why you have the need for alum shock? These are not hpi or what ever companies shocks. These are the best you can use.:confused:

[HauntedMyst]

What don't you understand Usagi? You don't need a graphite bumper brace, yet it has one where a plastic one would be fine. You don't need aluminum bulkheads yet their there. You don't need ball bearing steering, yet it has those. You don't need spring steel CVD's yet it has those. You don't need those very nice graphite battery hold downs, you could tape the batteries in, yet the car has the graphite ones. You don't need aluminum servo mounts, yet the car has those. Most of what is on the car isn't "needed." Again, what don't you understand about my thinking that a very high end car should come with aluminum shock bodies?

[Usagi]

Originally posted by HauntedMyst
Actually, their DaimlerCryslers now, probably to be just Daimler soon enough since the Germans are making the decisions (thank god). And thank you for the information ivanna, I am aware of the Acura's structure. Ultimately, it's a Honda, just as the Lexus is ultimately a Toyota.

this is what I am refering to:mad:


Back to the "belt tensoner" issue You don`t really need this unit now. If or when the belt needed buy it then. Whats the problem with that!

Why would you buy this car knowing how costly it is if it did not come with alum shocks, belt tenster, etc????. Did you read about the car before you bought it?

HM I expect you to have better understand before buy rc stuff, I repect you thought on this board.
But the way your talking about the xrays seem to me that you never read anything about the car before you bought it!

I love the car! Its that simple

[HauntedMyst]

Usagi,

I was very familar with what the car did and did not come with before I bought it and read all 3 mag reviews on it. In fact, all 3 mags knocked the car for not including the belt tensioner as it is simply an expectation on a dual belt car. Have you run your car enough to loosen or wear the belt out? Just because a belt loosens doesn't mean it's lost it's useful life. A belt tensioner extends the life of the belt. Since the belt tensioner is $15, that means it probably costs $3.50 for Xray to include it in the box. For $3.50 they could have increased their customers satisfaction level.

As for why I would buy it, I bought it for the rest of the car which seems exceptional. My statements still hold even now after receiving the car. Apparently you have never purchased a car and in hind site found a component of the car lacking? You seem to be acting as though the car is perfect just as it is and needs nothing to be perfect. Perhaps your expectations are lower then mine as I have yet to find the perfect car.

You also seem to have a difficult time understanding whats "needed" and whats "expected". A TC3 Racer has what is "needed' for a sport level club car. Since the Xray is marketed as a high end "luxury" car, my "expectation" is that it would have aluminum shock regardless of the fact that I know their not included. Did Associate "need" to include the aluminum threaded shocks on their FT TC3? No, the others work just fine. My guess is that they consider the FT TC3 to be a high end car, they thought their customers would "expect" them, since they included them.

As for your loving the car, what does that have to do with my wanting it to come with alu shocks. I'm glad you enjoy it, and I am sure I will enjoy mine a lot but it has not bearing on the discussion and does not add weight to your arguement.

[ivannaxray]

I agree with HauntedMyst if you are going to have a top-of-the-line car then include top-of-the-line parts everywhere

[Usagi]

NEEDS HM? Don`t Understand? Well I did not go out and buy THREE Xray Cars.

Sorry Sir, I do know what is need to be race ready, Thats why I bought the xray way back in march.

If your not happy fine, but there are many of us that are running the car with good results. What you fail to understand many many of us are happy with the car.
If your not happy sell them and buy three TC3.
But don`t try to make me believe that your picky things about Belt tenstion and alum shocks...... please your better then that. Thats is all:rolleyes:
Do you pick fights with everyone to win a point?:confused:

[ivannaxray]

No Usagi what HM is saying is that the T1 doesn't need aluminum shocks to win but it would be nice if the car had them. I think the T1 will win without them and that is great, but having the aluminum shock bodies and a belt tensioner would be a nice addition for the T2

[HauntedMyst]

Usagi,

LOL dude, you crack me up! Yes I did buy 3 of them :) I'll probably sell one at a profit so it will mean I'll pay about $170 an Xray with tools. What did you pay? :D

Sweet merciful crap, what does it take for you to understand the simple concept of what I am saying? Ivannaxray picked up pretty quickly "what HM is saying is that the T1 doesn't need aluminum shocks to win but it would be nice if the car had them."

Only time will tell on the belt tensioner, but please quote where I say the T1 NEEDS aluminum shocks. You been so busy making nonsensical arguments you haven't actually bothered to read what I've said. Let me see if I can get this into your head so you can understand it without hemorrhaging .

Does the Xray NEED Aluminum shocks? NO.

Do I think as a "luxury" touring car that is SHOULD COME WITH THEM? YES!

How simple is that? It's pretty simple and pretty straight forward. Just because you don't think the Xray should come with aluminum shocks doesn't make it "fact." It also doesn't mean everyone should change their mind so they agree with you.

As for picking fights, no, I rarely pick them. I believe it was YOU who picked a fight by arguing with me when I merely gave my OPINION that it should come with aluminum shocks. I don't consider this a fight since you have yet to say one thing that related to what I have said. You've told me it doesn't need them, but that is simply your opinion. Your opinion has no bearing on my opinion, and trying to argue otherwise is pointless.

[ivannaxray]

Hey are you going to race your T1? and if so you better tell us how you faired

[HauntedMyst]

Yeah, I'll be using one for stock and one for a backip.

[Usagi]

Originally posted by HauntedMyst
Usagi,

LOL dude, you crack me up! Yes I did buy 3 of them :) I'll probably sell one at a profit so it will mean I'll pay about $170 an Xray with tools. What did you pay? :D

Sweet merciful crap, what does it take for you to understand the simple concept of what I am saying? Ivannaxray picked up pretty quickly "what HM is saying is that the T1 doesn't need aluminum shocks to win but it would be nice if the car had them."

Only time will tell on the belt tensioner, but please quote where I say the T1
NEEDS aluminum shocks. You been so busy making nonsensical arguments you haven't actually bothered to read what I've said. Let me see if I can get this into your head so you can understand it without hemorrhaging .

Does the Xray NEED Aluminum shocks? NO.

Do I think as a "luxury" touring car that is SHOULD COME WITH THEM? YES!

How simple is that? It's pretty simple and pretty straight forward. Just because you don't think the Xray should come with aluminum shocks doesn't make it "fact." It also doesn't mean everyone should change their mind so they agree with you.

As for picking fights, no, I rarely pick them. I believe it was YOU who picked a fight by arguing with me when I merely gave my OPINION that it should come with aluminum shocks. I don't consider this a fight since you have yet to say one thing that related to what I have said. You've told me it doesn't need them, but that is simply your opinion. Your opinion has no bearing on my opinion, and trying to argue otherwise is pointless.

If you need to scream like this HM, there is no sene in continuing this ....... :(

[ttweedle]

HM I agree totally. If its going to be their premiere car then they should put some premiere shocks in the kit. Those are sorta an expensive upgrade. One reason I am leaning towards the TC3 FT. Plus I like the eye candy.

Travis

[Usagi]

people people! OMG, Some people you just can not make happy. Unless you own this car, and run it, you really don`t understand the quility. For the record, I have bought the alum shock bodies and I telling you there is not differance in the handling or setup. Its just for looks. The TC3 is awhole different car from xray. Worlds apart.

[HauntedMyst]

lol Usagi, so far 2 people have agreed with me and none have agreed with you, does that tell you something?

Since you aren't happy with the aluminum shocks, send them to me :)

[Usagi]

You beat all HM, these people don`t even own a xray DOH! I did not say I did not like the alum shock da! But I just bought them to see if there was any difference whicj there wasn`t have you been to their web site to ***** at mario?
I can`t believe you are so upset about this about the kit. OMG, its not life or death. Its a hobby for gods sakes.

[ivannaxray]

just because I don't own an X-ray doesn't make me a idiot. I am not saying the plastic shocks are bad I am saying if you are going to pay 300 dollars it better come with the best parts. JEEEZ


EDIT: Ivanna, dude, you can't even pretend to say the F word, K ? Some words are questionable, that one is totally off limits.
Besides, you are making good points ... you don't need to cuss. Cool ? :)

[Usagi]

a??????????? noone is calling you names.
I own many high end r/c cars and this in my mind is one of the best made. plastic alum shocks I don`t care the car is great its that simple. Cool Down.

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by Usagi

I can`t believe you are so upset about this about the kit. OMG, its not life or death. Its a hobby for gods sakes.


lol dude, this didnt upset me in the slightest. if anything it amused me you would argue when all I said was "I think it should have aluminum shocks" and you respond with "this car is great" You didnt even make a debate, just emotional responses. I suppose not everyone is good at debating so I can't fault you for that.

[ivannaxray]

You make it sound like because i don't have three hundred dollars to fork out for an Rc car right now I don't know what I am talking about. Now to simplify this situation. Usagi yes it is a good car. Everyone will agree with that and RCCA made it the best crafted car so that says something in itself. However less expensice cars such as the STR-4 PRO, AXIS-2, AND OB4 all have the aluminum shock bodies. In the X-rays defense I don't consider any of these cars on the same level. I feel that in the hands of a capable driver the T1 by X-ray would dominate the field. The only car I feel might have an advantage is the XXX-s by Team losi simply because of the tweak free design. I apologize for getting upset but people that don't own an X-ray may have a more unbiased opinion that people that do own an X-ray.

[Usagi]

Originally posted by HauntedMyst



lol dude, this didnt upset me in the slightest. if anything it amused me you would argue when all I said was "I think it should have aluminum shocks" and you respond with "this car is great" You didnt even make a debate, just emotional responses. I suppose not everyone is good at debating so I can't fault you for that.

Oh please! And what you write is any better, come on! Insulting people is the only way to go right? Well I am sorry nobody is as pefect as you. Look at your writing above. All I see is a person who THINKS he knowns more then the R/C companies.

[Scomp87]

Y'all just love to argue don't you? Let me interject. Does anoyone know where I can get one of these cars cheap? I mean 250 bucks max. I could fly over to europe and get one cheap, but I wish there were just someone ot there who doesn't like the car or feels s/he has too many cars and one of them could go. (HM)

I'm in Houston (y'all can tell right?) Let me know @:
The guy who wants the really cool car. (Scomp87@aol.com) :D

[Usagi]

250 new in the usa? I don`t think you can find one for that price. Used maybe ebay.

[Scomp87]

yea, I'm talkin' used Usagi.
nobody wants to give theirs up though. ( gee, I wonder why? )

Call me stupid, but if you look at a Corally C4.1, it looks a lot like a T1, al yth way from the arms to the motor plate. Why is this?

[Usagi]

yea I know its crazy nobody selling them used YET!;) But get a little more time they start showing one very soon. THe chassy only been out for 9 months. Yes I know the C4.1 looks like the xray, it simlar but not really the same design.

[HauntedMyst]

Scomp,

There is a guy selling a new in box one for $300 over on rectech.com, but I am guessing he would take $290 shipped. Come January, all the guys who bought them for carpet racing but didn't end up racing will start selling them off.

[HauntedMyst]

Welll I just ran into the first negative part of owning an X-Ray, one of my favorite bodies wont fit it!!! I like the NSX as a display and a race body (very neutral) but the back shock tower on the X-Ray is so high it wont fit. Unfortunately, it probably means my next 2 favorite bodies, the McLaren and CLK-GTR wont fit it as well but I will have to test them. If they had used the same size shocks front and rear, the shock tower could be lower and they would fit.

[PCC]

Actually, from what I understand, the Corally and the T1 were co-designed together. To me, the Corally looks like a prototype for the T1, though, what with the Corally being all black and such and the T1 being clearcoated and shiny.

[Usagi]

well some say it is, but its been a redesign of the C4 up to a point. But other then that. its a new car. It drivers great, and with little out the probrem with breaking part like that of the C4.

[NitroRacer10]

Ok I see the shock issue has quieted down a little and i don't MEAN to stir things up but I would like to add some food for thought to some of the recent posts. First I do not have an Xray YEt. But my best freind does and I have driven it many times at the track. WOW is all I can say and comapred to any other car it is superioir (IMO) Anyhow shocks....they are Serpent shocks right....right, well ever see what comes on EVERY Serpent car INCLUDING the $750 rolling Chassis VTEC????? Thats right plastic shocks. The Impulse, The NT, all of them plastic shocks. Also the C4.1 comes with the same plastic shocks. As for the Xray and Corally being similar...yes they are amd there was HUGE debate over this subject matter on Serpert website. But you ever look closely at the C4.1? The arms and most other plastic are Straight from the impulse, and even Have the Snake logo on them. They are much bulkier plastic pieces that Xray....good or bad I dunno, b/c I have only seen one Xray arm break in many months of racing. Also the Corally parts are DOUBLE the Xray parts. When I was racing my Impulse I needed a front upper arm, well Superior didn't have any BUT they had Corally and it is same part , but it was 7 bucks more???? Go figure.

[Usagi]

I bet team xray newer kits will include those alum shock for all the cry babies who want them.

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by Usagi
I bet team xray newer kits will include those alum shock for all the cry babies who want them.

I doubt it Usagi, there are too many mindless lemmings in the world who just accept what they get so Serpent doesn't feel the need to include them.

Nitro,
The shocks on the Xray are the standard Serpent shocks and they work great. The issue wasn't how well they work, the issue was if you were going to have an upscale car, you should include upscale parts, i.e.; aluminum shock bodies. The parts are very reasonable for the car, the only problem seems to be availability. My local shop that sells Xray doesn't have many parts (certainly not the ones I need) and the one online shop I frequent that sells Xray doesn't have many instock either.

I had a Corally for a short while. They were not developed together and Corally is the original. Corally suffers even worse then Xray when it comes to the part availability and the Nitro is right, they are insanely expensive.

[Usagi]

Originally posted by HauntedMyst


I doubt it Usagi, there are too many mindless lemmings in the world who just accept what they get so Serpent doesn't feel the need to include them.

Nitro,
The shocks on the Xray are the standard Serpent shocks and they work great. The issue wasn't how well they work, the issue was if you were going to have an upscale car, you should include upscale parts, i.e.; aluminum shock bodies. The parts are very reasonable for the car, the only problem seems to be availability. My local shop that sells Xray doesn't have many parts (certainly not the ones I need) and the one online shop I frequent that sells Xray doesn't have many instock either.

I had a Corally for a short while. They were not developed together and Corally is the original. Corally suffers even worse then Xray when it comes to the part availability and the Nitro is right, they are insanely expensive.

why bother...........................
well I think mario might send you a free sent of alum shock just to stop your crying. oh boy! I don`t follow trends buy buying a T1. I own first bacth that was made.

[NitroRacer10]

My point wasn't that they do not work or do their job....WE ALL KNOW THEY ARE THE BEST SHOCKS YOU CAN GET!!! My point was ALL Serpent cars are "upscale" (whatever that is susposed to mean) they are race cars, race cars that win WITHOUT Aluminum bodied shocks.......Usagi have you tried the single belt conversion?? Oh and ask Ralph Burch why he doesn't run them..THEY ARE NOT NEEDED.

[NitroRacer10]

I say we drop this issue and talk about the car for a purposeful and meaning reason...Can't wait to get mine is all i know!!

[tc3mike]

I don't feel that a comp. car even need alum. shocks. The plastic units are lighter to boot. Touring cars could use a trim in weight, especially unsprung and rotating weight. X-ray used the spring steel for some parts. This is a heavy material even after you cut unneeded material out to save weight. The plastic shocks compensate for that and make the car cheaper to boot. Since this is a serpent car, the public sees the brand as very exotic. Serpent isn't dumb, so they capitalize and mark up the price. FT TC3- 269.99 X-RAY T1- quite a bit more.

[NitroRacer10]

The question is how much does a case of arms cost for the TC3 and add that to the total cost!!!!!!!!!!!!! YOU WILL NEED THEM :)

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by NitroRacer10
My point wasn't that they do not work or do their job....WE ALL KNOW THEY ARE THE BEST SHOCKS YOU CAN GET!!! My point was ALL Serpent cars are "upscale" (whatever that is susposed to mean) they are race cars, race cars that win WITHOUT Aluminum bodied shocks....... Oh and ask Ralph Burch why he doesn't run them..THEY ARE NOT NEEDED.

Let me say it one last time since you people seem to have a hard time understanding it: I never said aluminum shocks were needed, I said I think an upscale car should include them since every other upscale car includes them. Saying they aren't needed is really down right stupid, since most of the luxury items built into the car (aluminum bulk heads, aluminum integrated hex hubs, spring steel cvds, labyrinth dust covers and graphite battery straps just to name a few) are also NOT NEEDED. None of them are necessary yet they are included for convenience and appearance, all of them could have been made from cheaper materials. I think the XXX-S proves none of them are needed since it's not a luxury car and has proven it can win big races. You don't buy an X-Ray because you need what it has, you buy it for the exceptional workmanship (and it has that in s-pades [apparently the swear filter thinks sp=ades is a swear instead of a card suit), for the eye candy it provides and because you want something unique in the TC world. As for Xray not including them to keep the costs down, thats a load of crap. A set of 4 retails for about $28 (I have a set on order) , which means $14 to the retailer, which means their cost is about $7 to Xray. Lets face it, if you are going to spend $320 on a car, you'd probably spend $340 if it included aluminum shocks (if you value the looks of them as I do)

Actually, I wouldn't agree they are the best shocks. The nice feature is the ability to change the dampening on the fly. I notice no difference performance wise between the Serpent shocks and those on my Pro 2 and TC3, if anything they seem a bit weaker to impacts due to their twist on design. I know a few people who run Serpents who have blown the shocks (leading to bleeding or dumping of the oil completely) by whacking the boards. I beat the crap out of my TC3 and it never blew the shocks. I have no clue who Ralph Burch is (and do not care) so I seeking his opinion is pointless. Why don't you ask Mark Pavidis why he DID run aluminum shocks on his winning Reedy Race car?

Now, do you want to talk about the car in a purposeful way? Who here has run the car in both the standard batt set up and the 3 forward/3 back configuration and what were the different handling traits?

[HauntedMyst]

Agreed jeep, time to hang it up. Apparently not a lot of Xray fans can put 2 and 2 together...

[ivannaxray]

I think they are just saying all that stuff about the shocks to see if the can get HM to fly off the hook and destroy something. Or maybe they are trying to get him to sell his car. Or....

Well anyway I think we have all agreed to disagree

[Usagi]

[i]
Well anyway I think we have all agreed to disagree [/B]
Well said:)

[NitroRacer10]

If you do not know who Ralph Burch is then maybe you shouldn't have an Xray...... Guess you are not that big of a fan of the car then are you??????

[Usagi]

Who are you talk to me? I hope not.

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by NitroRacer10
If you do not know who Ralph Burch is then maybe you shouldn't have an Xray...... Guess you are not that big of a fan of the car then are you??????


The side of the box said it needed electronics, a body and some inserts. It didn't say anything about having to know who Ralph Burch is :) And actually, I own 2 X-Rays, so I guess I'm doubly not qualified to have them :D

[NitroRacer10]

Usagi, no not you!

[Usagi]

ok, I see. Sorry

[safaridog]

Has anyone broken anything? I broke a rear a-arm after a horrific crash.

[Usagi]

I had good luck with parts not breaking.

[HauntedMyst]

I busted a shock mount in a wreck and a front upright by a two year old using it for a step stool.

[Usagi]

purchased the Alum Roll center Bridge today. It came with the screws too, unlike a few that did not.

[HauntedMyst]

Anyone running theirs with the swaybars? Are they worth the effort? I have them, I haven't installed either yet.

[Xray-driver]

HM, I have and use the rear swaybar and helps with steering alot.

[GT3R]

Gentleman I am new to the forum and returning to the RC car hobby as a semi adult after not having been involed since 9th grade, some 12 years ago. I liked the Xray from pictures in the Mags and it seemed to me to be well made with carbon fibre and aluminum as opposed to plactic and more plastic. I also liked the easy adjustability. I have had the car for about a week and have some questions that I hope some of you could answer. I have an extensive knowledge about real cars and chassis dynamics but I am not sure how much that applies. Also, it would be nice to bring this thread back to T1s and away from what should be a seprate thread on aluminum shock boddies.

1. Has anyone gotten the belt tensioner and does it work. Has anyone had a problem without it.

2. My shocks are terrible. I am certain the air is out but there is no symetry between them. I am aware of the adjustments and with the fronts both at full stiff the right offers more resistance than the left. I think oils is passing around the piston and not all through the holes. Has anyone had this problen and what are the cures.

3. Shocks again. Even with the dampenign full soft the weight of the wheel and suspension arm are not enough to return the system to full droop. The cure for this is to preload the spring, but that requires the suspension to be run on the droop stops, which means that any load transfer is goin to pick up the unladed (inside wheel) causing a huge loss of grip at that end. Preload also means the spring has an infinite rate for the first bit of the arm's travel, which is bad. Has anyone come up with a solution.

4. The diff were silky smooth when I first got the car. I ran it and decided to try to tighten the rear. I put the included hudy brand small allen in the hole, tightened it, and than was unable to get the thing out. When I finally did the dif had a "notchy feel" to it. The feel didn't go away when I loosened it. Did I do something wrong?

5. What have you broken. Safaridog mentioned the rear lower control arm. I broke the upper and lower bumpermounts in a head on crash. Are there any part I should get extras of before I need them?

6. What have you done to cure understeer on carpet? On asphalt?

Thanks for the help.

[GT3R]

Must be some tough questions.

[Usagi]

I have the belt thing, it works well, the shocks well....... thats a whole nother ball game. I am waiting for the next internal system from teamxray.

[Coconut]

All springs must have pre-load.not sure what you mean by pre-load. Serpent shocks are good but harder to build than most. Check tech section at www.ashfordhobby.com When you tighten the diff you must tighten a;ittle and turn,then tighten etc. The diff ball in T-1 kits are not very good. Get carbide to replace.

[GT3R]

Coconut, thanks for the link, that is a really helpful guide. Preload is when the suspension is fully extended and the spring is still compressed. This was the only way I could get the suspension to fully extend when needed. Fortunatly I got alot of help from a local X-Ray T1 expert at a hobby shop. I found that the suspension movement, with the shock/spring removed, was still very stiff. Sanding the adjustment clips and loosening the aluminum allens on the upright freed the rear up. I also had the shocks bled wrong. Now the car is working better on the bence and I will be track testing it tonight.

Most of my questions are answered, now all I need to do is learn to drive an RC.

[HauntedMyst]

GTR
1. I have the belt tensioner. It works nicely.
5. I have broken a shock mount eyelet and the front upright. There is an impact absorbing front bumper #301201 which I installed and allows for more flex. There needs to be one for the top but they haven't released on.
6. Have you completely set up the car? Mine exhibited no understeer with 5 mm ride height, no rear toe, 1 degree front toe. In fact it handles like its on rails.

[xrayracer]

I love my Xray. as for you guys bitching about the shocks, I think you are complaining about the wrong part. The pistons are driving me nuts! They are screw on and adjustable right? Only if the fn plastic doesnt strip out.

As for GT3R
1. I perfer not to use a tensioner as it induces more friction to the drivetrain. Belts are inherintly more drag that the shaft drives

2. I would replace the pistons with serpents if they would fit. I know some racers are using other shocks altogether.(don'tknow which brand.)

3. Sounds like your suspension is binding. check for enough freedom of movement without the shocks.

4. you flat spoted the diff balls. replace them. I use a ptfe based grease in my diffs and have not replaced them all season(infact I haven't had to open them up yet. I think the grease I use is Slick 50.

5. I have had a fun time with the upper bumper brace. I have been head-on twice (spun out and naild by back markers). I will be making a replacement out of Kydex(black plastic bumper material) so it can absorb the impact.

6. I run the car with the batteries in the skewed forward method.
then balance the car (left to right).

Question for all
Running in 45 degree weather on asphalt what are your tire choices. In Southern California we usually don't see this temp but I got nailed on tire choice when the temp took a dive at the end of the day. I was running Sorex 32r during the day. 60-70 they where hooked up.

[ivannaxray]

I always thought that belts are less friction than gears, but the problem (with belts) occurs as they wear they have more of a tendency to slip, break, or "flop off" in hard collisions. Gears induce more friction and bad gear meshing can result in worn gears. But hey I could be wrong.

[xrayracer]

The reason the shaft is less friction is there is no stress against the bearings on the drive train like the belt does. the belt puts a load on the bearing inducing friction. the shaft drive has the bearings purely supports the weight of the shaft. If the ring pinion are using a low stiction grease or graphite lube than the thing will spin for way longer than the belt drives will.

That just means they could freewheel better but if you put a one way in then they fronts will free wheel the same as a shaft car.
then the shaft drive

[GT3R]

Thanks for all the help. I found a shop to sell me the new lower bumper, and I did find that when the shocks are removed the suspension was binding, not the shocks as I thought earlier. That is now fixed and I am going to the track for some testing. I did set the car up and it understeered on asphalt and carpet but far woorse on asphalt. I think I have a completely different car now that the shocks are correctly assembled and bled and the binding is gone.

XRay racer, I will check the balls and also I stripped out the piston as well. I would like to see an aluminum version with a thicker thread gauge and a diameter that was precisely machined as opposed to having to sand a burr off.

Again, thanks for the help.

[OVAL4EVER]

I was wondering if one of you xray owners would do me a favor please? I am wanting to run the XRAY blades on the MIP CVDS of my B3 sprint car so I can use the alluminum lite-drive without notching them all up. I was hopeing one of you would be willing to measure the pin diameter that the XRAY bones use, as well as the thickness of the blades, so I know how much I'll have to widen the slots in the lite drive to accomidate them.
I would really appreciate this information. Thanks in advance, I'll include My email addy in case you need more detail to answer my question.
batteryman2400a@aol.com

[safaridog]

IRS makes a pin cushion that you could use instead. I have used them in my TC3 without any problems, they are about 3 bucks for the set of 4.

[OVAL4EVER]

Thanks SAFARI DOG; but I allready bought a set of the IRS units and was totally unimpressed. rember an OUTLAW SPRINT CAR, ISE 1/2x again heavier than a TC3, (I have both), and the SPrinter uses mostly raw power to do it task. Due to bein so top heavy, sprinter go through the turns, in a FAR less efficeint mannar than a TC, then SLAM to power on for a mad dash down the straight. I need someything a bit more substantial than a narrow pin to be able to use alluminum drives with out haveing to change the IRS cushions every other race day, which I'm sure would happen. To give you an Idea of the ammount of torque here, Three of us who run in the top 6 places in our points serries, all had to rebuild our trannies, due to striped ideler gears in the last two weeks. MINE is a B3 tranny the other two were origonal 2.25 stealth trannys, we do this a lot, because most the metal ideler gears out there are machined poorly and bid. our LHS order in a Dozen from somewhere, ( don't remeber who ), they went through all of them and ended up send them back for a refund, because they wouldn't fit.
Any one got time to chck the diameter of a dog bone pin please?

[safaridog]

the dia of the pin is 2 mm x 11.65mm long, the blade is 3 mm thick

[OVAL4EVER]

Thanks safri dog; that is going to work out pretty good, I just need to open the slot in the lite drive by a little over 1 mm.
one last thing I forgot to ask, (sorry), what is the distance between the 2 legs of the blade? you know waht I mean? where the ball shaped part of the cvd sits, I need to know that gap as well. to tell weather the associated CVD pin will be long enough, (10 mm) and also the width from outside each leg of the balde.
IE. if the distance between the legs is between 3mm - to - 6mm. I can make things work by either fileing the gap larger, or placeing shims on eithe side of the pin, the keep the cvd from "walking" in the blade(s)
Tahnks again, sorry to be such a pain.:D

[safaridog]

The ball part of the dogbone is 6.9mm, the width of each leg of the blade is 2.4mm.
so......

2.4 + 6.9 + 2.4 = 11.7mm
Length of pin = 11.65mm

Hope this helps & let me know how things work out

:)

[OVAL4EVER]

SAFRIDOG; Thank man! now I have all the info I need to draw up some plans for the machinist(s). The associated/MIP, ball end of the CVD shaft is 5 mm wide and the pin, (also 2mm dia.), is 10mm long. this MIGHT work as is, but to make things stronger, I think I pick up a couple of toolsteel 2mm drill bits, and cut them to 12mm long to use as replacements for the standard MIP pins. and shim the difference in the middle ( center the blade on the ball end ), using small motor shims. All I have to do is get with my machinist buddy to have him relieve the gap/slot in the standard HG lite drives, by 1mm + or - a few thousandths, to allow things to move bind free. I wrote TEAMARMOROSO@AOL.COM who also makes litedrives, but at a much lower price to see if I could order them direct, allready "opened up" the extra 1MM, and I'am waiting to here back on any extra fee for doing so. ( Isent them the picture and specs. you provided. They sell a polished version of the drives for about $15.00 a pair, so I thought I would start with theirs, to "give the little guy a chance" while saving some money as well. Last Question I have is based on your experience, or from what you have been told. removing the pins from the CVD bones. Can this be done by maybe drilling a suitable size hole in a pice of scrap metal or wood, and then inserting both the CVD bone and the drilled piece into a bech vice to "press the pin out" part of the way at least. and then follow up using a 1/16" or 2mm punch to remove the pin(s) the rest of the way? I saw niftech sold little "anvil & puch sets" to do this all, but at $15.00 to change a pin, seams I could do things myself for as often as I should have to do this.
Thanks again and Happy Holidays.
I'll post again when I here back from Team Armaroso, and again once all is done and tested.:D

[aspiringrcracer710]

anybody got pics of their T1

[Usagi]

Still waiting for the new shock parts. uck! The sooner the better.:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :D

[Poolboy51]

Is this a good 1st time electric car? I want to learn all the tricks of the trade in electric touring. I already have a Kyosho Rampage, and a Traxxas T-MAXX

[PCC]

The T1 is a great car but it can be difficult to setup. It's one of those situations where you have so many choices and the adjustments are so many and fine that it's easy to become overwhelmed with what to do and how to set them. If you don't have the Hudy tools and can't find a kit with them then you won't be able to get the suspension set up in any reasonably good way to have decent handling and you will not like it (a buddy of mines went through that with this car and sold it to another buddy - and he had the Hudy tools!). An understanding of what the different adjustments do for the handling and how they interact with the other adjustments you make help a lot, too. I was once told by the guy working the counter at a not so LHS that the X-Ray is a difficult car to get dialed and the fact that there are so many adjustments makes it more difficult to get it there. So, while you are fidgeting with the settings for the race, your competitors are practicing. He's a Tamiya fan.

A simpler car will probably be a better first electric touring car for you.

[OVAL4EVER]

SAFARIDOG; I'm still working on the litedrive project. Trying to work with TEAMARMOROSO, proved to be 100% waste of my time. I went to gereat detail one what needed o be done. He didn't seam to understand, I told him to forget it. Then he writes begging for another chance to help...so I sent him all the specs again...and He tries to tell me to use weedwacker string instead!?!?!:mad: That company is not worth a dime to me. I even went so far in my first email to say that if he dien't want to alter his product I fully understood, but he just keept emailing asking more questions. very wierd guy. I have orderd some of robison racings QUALITY made lite drives and will get a local machinist to do the mods and let you know how it work out.:cool:

[OVAL4EVER]

I would also be carefull ordering anything this guy sells, for now it's limited to litedrives to fit the B3 & T3, but as I said I sent him all the specs and He still had to ask things like "won't they fit in to orrigonal outdrives?" basicly he didn't even know the specs of his suposed supior product. this guy has basicly used what is referd to in the machining industry as a "tracer" to coppy the associated drives in another material, and sadl he hasn't saved the specs to a printout, so he is doing NO quality control checks to ensure his toolings havn't slipped, because he dosen't know what those specs, are in the first place. He does have excellent prices, and may stand behind a product yu purchase that has a flaw, But I myself won't risk dealing with him.

[HYDRAMATIC99]

For all of you that stripped the pistons on your shocks out so you cant adjust it. Take off the e-clip that holds the piston on and thread on a 3mm nut. That will give enough friction to hold the piston and the adjustable system works beatifully. Another tip if you havnt stipped the threads yet is the back the piston off untill it is tight against the top e-clip.

As for breaking parts I have only broken one rear arm.

[MULDER]

I have gone through the following parts:

upper graphite bumper, steering blocks ( both sides ), drive universals ( contrary to Hudys statement, these do bend ). That's about it.

I fixed the bumper problem by not crashing, and the driveshaft problem by limiting my radio to how far my steering can turn. Since then, I have not broken anything as of yet.

The car is great and once you have a setup from the net or even your own, you will love the car.

[Dave Hall]

lol, I just stupidly started another X-Ray forum because i didn't see this one :rolleyes: (thanks electricnitro). I have a T1 and was wondering how well do T1s go over there in America?. Here in England they go ok but aren't really suited to tight, twisty (indoor) tracks because they are too stiff. If anyone else races on a track like this try taking the back two screws out of the top deck. It helps the car flex which is what it needs to do for such tracks. It helped me jump a whole final up! :D

[HYDRAMATIC99]

Dave, have you tried the flexible upper deck? Ive heard it is a great improvement. Do you race on carpet? Xray will be releasing a carpet conversion soon. There is info on the xray VIP room if you havn't seen it yet. Good luck with it.

[Evo5]

Dave: I race in a really tight technical asphat track here in Manila... and my car is holdin up pretty well. I use the flexible top brace , Front One-Way Diff with the front and rear swaybars installed. I also have the alumimum rear arms at the back. One siginficant change I did to the car to make it run like its on rails is put all the caster clips on front of the upper arm except for the 1mm clip at the back. I think that gives me around 10 or 11 degrees of caster. There's so much on power steering that i'm eating up the Losi's on the insides. I never thought my T1 could do this... the initial turning though is slightly weaker but I have the front-one way to compensate for this. I have so much cornering speed now contrary to the notion that the xray scrubs speed on the corners on tight technical tracks because of the cars stiffness...

If you want the setup i can post it here and try it out for yourself... it works well for me :D

[Evo5]

here's a pic of mt t1 way back when it was new... its the stock car on the pic

[demyan12]

Its funny how the T1 looks almost the same as the Corally C4&C4.1, but the T1 is such a hype....
(I have the C4 tho :D)

[Dave Hall]

I have not tried the flexible upper deck but I have heard from one of my new friends, Richard Hall (no relation to me!) that its not really that good. Hes an ex-Xray team driver and has given me alot of help with the setup of my car and now i'm giving him a run for his money, up in the A-finals :D !!!!! He said that the flexi deck is good on the tighter outdoor tracks but doesn't help enough on the extremely tight indoor tracks. I have found myself that indoor the car handles better with the front end 1mm higher than the back. This is quite strange but it works!! Evo5 I also find that alot of caster helps but I have found this is all down to how you personally drive the car and like it to handle. It suits me because I like to go in to the corner slow and come out fast. However other T1 drivers like as little caster as possible.

[Evo5]

Dave Hall: i guess the more caster setting both suits our driving styles... i also like taking in the corner slow and come out really fast out of the turn. what kind of indoor track do you run btw? carpet? i just ran last night at a technical asphalt indoor track... again the car ran really well.

[Dave Hall]

I race on a kind of spongy surface inside a leasure centre usually, at Worksop. It is very hard to describe and you have to see it to know what I mean. I have only raced on carpet twice before because I only started racing about 8 months ago. People tell me it was a bit of a mistake buying an X-Ray for a first touring car but I think I'm coping pretty well. I was releived to find the X-Ray is easier to drive than the 4wd M1 mini I used to race before!!!

[Dave Hall]

Oh yes and my previous tip about taking the screws out of the top deck, don't try it carpet because it causes the car to drive very irratically and is uneven in grip levels around corners. It is still good on low grip tight indoor tracks though, like my usual track at Worksop (the funny surface).

[cyb0rg]

Well, this has been an interesting thread...LOL!

My 2 cents about the shocks: He wasn't saying that alum shocks are better or needed in the kit...just that you would think a high-end RC would come w/ alum shocks instead of plastic. It would be like a Cadillac coming standard w/ an AM radio...sure it works, but expectations aren't met. On the other hand, I'm sure extensive research and testing went into the design of this car, and they decided to go w/ plastic for a reason.

On another note: I'm new to touring cars, in fact, I'm looking to buy my 1st. I was originally going to get an HPI Pro 3, due to parts availability and price...but I'm having 2nd thoughts. I really like the T1. To me, setting up the car and getting it dialed in are 1/2 the fun of RC racing. I'm not intimidated by all the setup options.

I have some questions for you T1 owners: How would you rate parts availability? If I break something, I don't want to wait a month to get parts from BFE. Also, are there any XRay sites other than thier homepage?

Thanks! :D

[aspiringrcracer710]

If you have pics of your XRAY T1 put em up here. BTW, a guy won at the ROAR Carpet Nats using an XRAY

[HYDRAMATIC99]

cyborg: as for parts availability it was hard for me to get parts but then I got to be good friends with a serpent dealer, he does orders a few times a week. So it is very easy for me to get parts. But the only LHS near me that carries xray parts is about 45min. away and they stock very little.

[pugton]

I found this worked very well,Trim the width of the standard top deck to a width of 7ml it gives the car just enough flex to handle better on carpet and tarmac.:)

[aspiringrcracer710]

I was cruising the Internet and saw that Sorex is a very good brand of rubber tire. TRC is good foam. everybody put in their $.02 about tires. I'll put this question on the other forums

[pugton]

On my xray i used trc blue foams<medium> unless i was useing a silly wind motor when i would put greens on the back,As for the sorex i used them on my serpent 32 degree,s front and rear and found them a good tyre for the tempretures we get in england.

[HYDRAMATIC99]

I personally like the take off tires. They last long and have great grip even with the stock inserts.

[automobiliben]

Hey Guys, I am rebuilding my shocks and have some questions to ask. The first time I built them I super glued the bladders to the caps of the shocks. But when I go to rebuild them I see that it didn't create too good of a seal and some of the air leaked out. What do you guys do with the bladders? Any recommendations on how to build better shocks?

[aspiringrcracer710]

go to the Serpent website. They should know.

Serpent Website (http://www.mytsn.com)

[Usagi]

Originally posted by automobiliben
Hey Guys, I am rebuilding my shocks and have some questions to ask. The first time I built them I super glued the bladders to the caps of the shocks. But when I go to rebuild them I see that it didn't create too good of a seal and some of the air leaked out. What do you guys do with the bladders? Any recommendations on how to build better shocks?
OMG I tried that way and it was a failure! uck! I waited 20.00 on the way building them! Go buy the new shock "keyed" shafts and your problem is over! Those old shocks were such a waste of money!

[automobiliben]

Yeah this is the new Evo 2 so I don't have the problem. But the shocks still aren't the easiest to work with.

[Usagi]

Originally posted by automobiliben
Yeah this is the new Evo 2 so I don't have the problem. But the shocks still aren't the easiest to work with.
They are not that bad. much easier then the first sets. OMG they were crap! But the new ones WOW!

[automobiliben]

Yeah I know how much of an improvement these are over the olds (I own both versions, and the first time I put the T1 together I stripped 2 shocks before ever getting to run the car). But I used to have a IWC Street weapon, OMG are Losi shocks soooo much easier to work on than any brand that fills from the top.

[Usagi]

See problem is with these shock are we are use too a different style of building shocks......... Those xray shock oh.... man they are a big problem! But once you get used to them good god they are better then....................you :D

[BerthMaster]

Those xray shock oh.... man they are a big problem! But once you get used to them good god they are better then....................you

hi guys,

i'm new to this forum. comes from Jakarta, Indonesia.
just got my first T1 Evo2 2 weeks ago. building the shocks is a tough job, same as my previous Serpent Impulse, especially when you put the ball cup on the shock shaft.
what i can share with you, when building the shock do not forget to put a drop of oil in to the shock sleeve, before you put the shock shaft. put a drop of oil on each 'o ring' attached. after you fill the shock with oil and make sure no buble in side. push the shaft in about 1/3 to 1/2 (must be same at each shock), then put the bladder and press it till some amount of oil come out. pull out the shaft then put the cover.

when you push the shaft in and release, it should come out only about half way. your T1 shock will be ready.
i never have problems with this shocks.

brgds

[Usagi]

I like the new design shocks, the older version well thank god the updated sets!
Problem is there been alot of ideas about building them, but I tried each one and they all failed until the new ones came out.

[t3dude]

i was wondering if anyone would be interested in trading their xray for my hopped up micro. i have pics
if so plaease email me
tonynalli@yahoo.com

[Nofri]

Originally posted by BerthMaster


hi guys,

i'm new to this forum. comes from Jakarta, Indonesia.
just got my first T1 Evo2 2 weeks ago. building the shocks is a tough job, same as my previous Serpent Impulse, especially when you put the ball cup on the shock shaft.
what i can share with you, when building the shock do not forget to put a drop of oil in to the shock sleeve, before you put the shock shaft. put a drop of oil on each 'o ring' attached. after you fill the shock with oil and make sure no buble in side. push the shaft in about 1/3 to 1/2 (must be same at each shock), then put the bladder and press it till some amount of oil come out. pull out the shaft then put the cover.

when you push the shaft in and release, it should come out only about half way. your T1 shock will be ready.
i never have problems with this shocks.

brgds
Hey men! Apa Kabar? :) I live in Holland but my parents are from Indonesia to :) (I can speak it too :)) Where did you get your T1 Evo2? I thought that in Jakarta they did not sell any RC Car's like a Tamiya and better, but that was5 years ago when I was on holiday, but I never seen a RC shop :confused: )

[BerthMaster]

hi Nofri,

apakabar? selamat berkenalan.

i bought my T1 Evo2 at Bumble Toy. they are selling Kyosho Mini-Z, HPI Micro and just imported Xray with all the spare parts. location at Pondok Indah, South of Jakarta.

5 years ago? wow that was consider long time ago, man. in early 1999 somebody start building a track at area called Gelora Senayan, just between mid Jakarta and south Jakarta. in 2000 they renovate and made another smaller track. now they have 1 big track, applicable for nitro 1/8. smaller track for electric and 1/10 nitro, sometime they use the big track for 1/10 nitro race.

see Team Orion web, the smaller track will be used for International Reedy Race, on 24th and 25th August. i heard participants will come from Australia, Singapore, Malaysia, Philippines and of course the world champion from Thailand - Surikarn.

at the track area they have r/c shop. not so big but quite oke.
at least there are 5 or 6 r/c hobby shops. if you happen or others, visiting Jakarta do not forget to stop by at Senayan R/C Track. you will easyly find the newest 1/8 Mugen, Vteq, Kyosho, SMP. electric: Losi XXX-S, Xray, TRF M2, TC3, Yoke, HPI...

next Saturday, i will take some picture of the track to show in this forum.

anyway, it's worth for you own Xray T1 Evo2. this car is fantastic.
you don't need additional hardware to adjust caster, camber, kick up, anti squat. the chasis is a bit flex and can absorb bump on track and i think some minor mistake on the set up.

brgds

[twintroy]

Has anyone tried the new C-hubs or have a price on the complete kit F+R ?


What improvements would they have over the standard pivot-ball set up ? It doesn't look like the toe would be adjustable on the rear using the new c-hub???


Thanks

[automobiliben]

I got a quote of I think like $189 or so. If you ask me I think it is a rip and if it takes that to be competitive I will be buying a new car soon.

[twintroy]

Originally posted by automobiliben
I got a quote of I think like $189 or so. If you ask me I think it is a rip and if it takes that to be competitive I will be buying a new car soon.


WHAT ????? Thats crazy, looks like i'll be looking for a new car too!

[BerthMaster]

Has anyone tried the new C-hubs

rear aluminum hub, seems do not have any advantage except is stronger then pivot ball.

while c hub will eliminate decreasing in camber when the suspension compressed (entering turn). you will have fixed camber degree.

brgds

[TRINITY POWER]

i had a little on power push i migfht try to shorten the wheel base

[PCC]

Is anyone else out there having problems getting parts for their T1? My buddy, who owns four T1's recently had to borrow parts from my semi-retired T1 so he could continue racing his car. He's out of front dogbones and front bumper upper supports and we have had these on order for the last few months! I stopped running my T1 because parts were hard to come by but this is rediculous!

[RCCadet]

PCC :: Have you tried using Stormerhobbies.com? I have not had a problem getting parts.

David
www.htrlrc.com
www.lightspeedrc.com

[Aluma]

hi everyone...

how do you guys setup for short bumpy asphalt track with full 4wd(not a oneway)....I still have trouble getting it right....what kind of caster, camber, oils, springs, antidive, kickup, be very specific please... my car seems to oversteer or understeer severly...with the settings i've tried...i read the manual and i dont get the car to handle the way it should.

[Hobbytown Racer]

What tires are you using??? They make a big difference.

[Aluma]

I was using 27r HPI's red inserts during night time, and take off 32Rs during the day. also have tamiya type A's for night time.

[M_S]

I recieved wheels and tires with my kit, but no inserts. Is this the norm for the T1?

Also, does anyone have any the original ads for the T1 offering the hudy tools/setup with the kit? I need a copy of it and the pre-order date.

Thanks,

MS

[Unregistered]

I have a brand new unbuilt XRAY T1 EVO2 kit for sale if anyone is interested

[twintroy]

well.....

i finally took the plunge and bought the alum C-Hub (f+r) conversion. What a difference .....i have never been happier with the car!

a little expensive but well worth the money.

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by automobiliben
Hey Guys, I am rebuilding my shocks and have some questions to ask. The first time I built them I super glued the bladders to the caps of the shocks. But when I go to rebuild them I see that it didn't create too good of a seal and some of the air leaked out. What do you guys do with the bladders? Any recommendations on how to build better shocks?

Just cut the bladder (they call it shock membranes) with a sharp hobby knife and buy new membranes. They aren't that expensive.

Good luck,

Dr. Techn0

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by automobiliben
I got a quote of I think like $189 or so. If you ask me I think it is a rip and if it takes that to be competitive I will be buying a new car soon.

I have a brand new set I can sell for around $150, plus actuall shipping if anyone is interested. I have them on mines and it runs a lot smoother on carpets and more precise when gunning and turning. I wouldn't drive my EVO2 without it. :D

Dr. Techn0

[nomac]

i think that the alum hubs are just hype! poeple say that the car is better with them installed. well here's my two cents: the car was designed with the world's best on-road type suspension-pillow balls! why change a good thing? and (in my opinion) the REAL reason why the car feels like it does(new c-hubs) is because those alum parts are way heavier than the stock parts. more weight, more traction! i'm not doggin out the new stuff. i'm sure there was a ton of costly r&d that went into them, but what i'm trying to say is this; IF YOU ALREADY HAVE THE WORLD'S MOST TECHNICAL AND TUNABLE CHASSIS, WHY DOWNGRADE YOURSELF AND COPY SOMEONE ELSE'S "simple" CARS?

[Dr. Techn0]

Simple? it is not. Of course there's a lot of R&D done to put these options out. Then again, they ARE OPTIONS. But when most if not all of the team drivers have these on instead of the pillow balls, then it's got to be something different. The ease of adjustments as compared to the pillow balls, the more sturdy aluminium hubs and knuckles, the added degrees of castor and etc. Yes, weight is an issue but to the minimum and I find it DOES make a difference in tighter tracks. I've had people tell me that "it ain't no big deal" but time and time again, after racing with me, they're being out turned and cornered in a tighter track, while I can stick closer to my lines with these then with the pillow balls, I find it very useful and advantagous. <spelling?>

Some, who can afford it will appreciate it. Other's who can't afford it will find an excuse not to have it. And I'm not saying you or anybody else for that matters. It's just a luxury item in R/C like all others where money IS performance and speed.......enough said. ;-)

btw, there's one on ebay right this minute up for bid.

Techn0

[nomac]

your spelling is fine... yes i do agree with you're entire post. but you also have to look at it this was too; the caliber of drivers that run the losi & ae cars are a lot higher than that of x-ray. from the super bad A drivers down to the local C guys. so there's an advantage right there. but if you were to hire on at least ONE of the big boys then you'll see a change in option parts. i mean just look what barry baker did for ae. the car has been almost unchanged since production. and now that barry's on board, they are producing new front a- arm's. not super bulky hundred dollor hub options. as a matter of fact, the hubs are still exactly the same! it just goes to show you - why mess with perfection! all x-ray needs in the US is one of the killer mod driver out there to head r&d. not those europians. not that they're s*cky or anything, but to say a quote from one of my favorite movies. "...only a ninja can KILL a ninja!" .Sho Kasuki-ninja3 the domination.

[95M3]

Hello I just bought a new T-1 ($199.00) and my local hobby shops do not carry parts of course. So what are the best parts to buy for spares/replacements. Another words what breaks the most and of course any recomendations on realy needed improvements if any. I am not interested in eye candy so just the parts that realy work better.

So far the upgraded shock internals and the new bellcrank seem like real needed upgrades but please any help is apreciated.

Thanks for your time.

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by 95M3
Hello I just bought a new T-1 ($199.00) and my local hobby shops do not carry parts of course. So what are the best parts to buy for spares/replacements. Another words what breaks the most and of course any recomendations on realy needed improvements if any. I am not interested in eye candy so just the parts that realy work better.

So far the upgraded shock internals and the new bellcrank seem like real needed upgrades but please any help is apreciated.

Thanks for your time.

Hi, I would suggest you consider the Front and Rear Spring Steel Wheel Axles. I've experienced that they tend to bind the bearing once you've kissed the board harder then expected. LOL

Another thing I would consider is the Belt Tensioner since it's a pain to take half the car apart to tighten the belt without it on an adjustable T1 EVO2.

Lastly, the rear roll center bridge as some racers I've talked to swears by it. Also the front anti-roll bar and Impact absorbing bumpers. Do grab yourself some spare front arms because they will eventually break when you smack it. Hope it helps.

But to be politically correct, you actually don't need all the parts I've mentioned unless you're like me and want to have it all. LOL, Oh!, I forgot to mention, if you want a more sturdy car, then get an extra rear tower and mount it by doubling it up. This will keep iti from breaking if your car rolls over hard. Again, just what I did but not really neccessary.

Dr. Techn0
P.S. There's some guys selling a bunch of stuff on Ebay. Gotta be the best thing that happens because parts are hard to find at least for me. :)

[nomac]

i've also had a lot of luck with the rear alloy a-arms. the only thing i did to them was take some neddle nose pliers and GENTLY crimp ONE or two teeth on the threads of both lower pillow balls.(be sure to use the wire cutting part) the reason for this is because the threads were such a perfect fit that they often came loose and changed rear toe. other than , the above tread is ideal.

[ronvdp]

I have a Xray T-1 with the evo2 chassis and a few other upgrades. I would like to know what people think of the steering bell crank upgrade as well as the aluminum adjustable roll center bridge. Exactly what changes in adjustability do these parts provide? ALso, can anyone here provide a good source of info on setups for the car in different conditions? I will be running at SoCal in Huntington beach in case any of you run there, maybe you can offer some advice. Thanks!:D

[Dr. Techn0]

The bell crank with four holes instead of two will allow you the option to mount on the inside or outside. When mounted on the inside will give you a different ackerman setting which will turn the wheels differently. I've experienced both and found on tight tracks, the inner mount works great. But on wider tracks with sweeping corners, I would mount it on the outside. This allows me to have quick lighter response going into a corner.

About the rear center bridge, almost everyone I've meet at Socal have one on. It's inexpensive enough of an upgrade that allow more adjustable rear. I haven't felt that much of a different due to my quick on slow off throttling but other fast racers swears by it for some reason.

Dr. Techn0

[ronvdp]

Thanks Dr. Techno,

I have another question or two. I noticed that my T1 didn't turn very quicklyand almost felt a little too planted. I am using a very good high speed servo but the turns weren't very tight at all, I was running a little too wide around the sharper turns but it was dead stable in the long turns. I am running about 3 degrees rear toe in and 0 degrees front toe in. Is there an adjustment that will help with that situation? I was thinking that maybe the rear mounted 3x3 battery setup kept the rear from moving outward while forcing the front to slide a bit. I'm new to all this so really am not sure which way to go on adjustments. I had thought about a one-way front but was told to wait until my driving skills are good to use one. I'm getting a used set of Hudy guages soon so I can start tinkering a bit but would love some advise here.

Also, what upgrades are most recommended for the original T1 to get it as close to the T2 without buying the whole car. So far I've got the chassis, ultra flexible top deck, 6 cell battery strap, spring steel hubs front and rear. All this came with it as I bought it used.

Thanks

[Dr. Techn0]

What tires are you using and was it at Socal? because Mike at Socal suggested the Sorex 32r or the 36r with HPI medium soft inserts and they work great. Now, there's a few problems related to this but no definate answer. I might suggest you 1. change both your shock springs to a stiffer level. 2. What type of shocks are they? the original T1 shocks made by Serpent or those newer EVO2 shocks? There's a big difference and I really like the EVO2 shocks with front on 3 clicks, rear on 1 clicks. 3. What caster setting are you using for your front? Might want to play with that a little. 4. You may want to adjust your rear camber intake a little but its really hard to say since I haven't seen your car but with the XRAY, they are widely adjustable. 5. What track width? this can be adjusted depending on the track.

About the front one-way, it's what I use and it really doesn't matter whether you're a good driver or a new driver but all you have to do is learn to drive with it. It'll help with your turns because it allows the outer wheel to spin more and the inner wheel to spin less so it'll give you a much smoother turn if you set it up correctly and decrease the drag brakes on your ESC and your Radio. I have mines with the Alu front anti-roll bars to further limit its front chassis roll. So with the oneway, the anti-roll, and good tires, you can easily increase your turn speed at Socal. ;)

But ultimately, everyone drives a little differently so you'll really have to change and setup one thing at a time to see which suits your taste and your driving style. There's no definate must or must nots. Although it's good to have parts and options readily available.

Regarding your T1 versus the EVO2. There are a few things different but I may be wrong.
1. Evo2 has adjustable belt tensioning front and rear bulkheads. But I don't see it being much benefit upgrading since you have to take half the car apart just to adjust it. I'd go with the external belt tensioning kit for that.
2. I believe the T1 uses the old Serpent shocks and the EVO2 has a lot better shocks. I've got an extra 2 pairs with heavier oil just so I can switch if needed at different tracks.

Hope this helps.

Dr. Techn0

[nomac]

on tight carpet tracks i had the same problems. what helped me the most with steering was making the car longer. i played around with wheelbase clips til i found a happy mix of "scary" in and planted out. i also ran the one-way pulley 15% locked and the front diff a little looser than the rear.

[ronvdp]

So where did you end up with the clips(how many and in what positions) and also how do you run your batteries? Thanks, Ron.

[nomac]

i ended up using a 1mm clip in the rear of the a-arm. and the middle hole on the alloy a-arms. but to use this set-up, you have to space the tops of the shocks out about 3mm as this will bring the shocks back to their original vertical position. my batteries were standard x- ray set-up. oh! here's another little trick i used! instead of the x-ray servo horn, use an associated servo horn. this will move the ball stud towards the servo body(or backwards for x-ray). now line up the drag rod to where it's perpen- perpad- aw shoot!! stait with the drive belt. mark it... drill it... countersink it and reset it! this should bring the servo around 1/4 of an inch closer to the chassis center line. i know it's not much , but in the wourld of balance and performance every bit helps.( i heard that somewhere in an f1 telecast.) i never did use an after market top deck neigther. i just a dremel with a router bit and carved [X - R A Y T1] on it from front to back.

p.s. sorry for the spelling, sandy cheecks the squirrel is my couzin-- duuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuh!

[nomac]

hey guys, come back! don't worry, you can't my stupid!

[ronvdp]

I finally got a one way for the front and played around with my end points and steering rates, what a difference! I also got the newer two position bellcrank for the steering so I will see how that goes. As far as camber and toe in adjustments I will get it on some Hudy guages and see where I am at. But just from the changes I've made so far the steering is much better for me.

[nomac]

anyone trying to sell an x-ray?

[Dr. Techn0]

Anyone tried these? The Solid Alu Center Layshaft and Solid Front Axle? I think they're a great hop up for such low price. Any comments?

Dr. Techn0

[Devin]

Nope I haven't experimented with these items. Just be careful with the chassis hex screws. I loctited them in and after 3 months of not playing with the car, I went to remove them to get at the front bulkheads and they all rounded off :( I'll have to use the Ez out bit in my drill to get them out now.

[Dr. Techn0]

Sorry to hear about this.

yeah, I've notice that too from another xray racer. I don't have these problem since I don't use loctite and check the screws after every run to make sure they're secured. I've never lost a screw underneath the chassis since they are fitted really tight and snug already.

I am running the Solid Layshaft and it's a lot more efficient with a mod motor. The front is the one-way and with this combo, I can turn and burn anytime. What a great car this is, I ended up shelving all my other cars. I've gone as crazy as having another car with the full c-hubs installed and it's a turner too. ;)

I'm planning to change the pivot balls into the Alu Duralanium ones front and back to cut back the weights even further. This car rocks!

Dr. Techn0

[Devin]

Well the Ez outs didn't work for crap last night. Even at slow speed they just pushed the soft alum head around and basically drilled it out for me instead of gripping in and removing the screw. I gave up and my last resort worked. Dremmel the head and get it out with a flat headed screw driver. Now I just have some small cuts in the carbon fiber where the cutting disk hit the chassis. Sucks..hopefully it will hold, if not i'll have to get another chassis :( No more loctite! In other good news, I had problems with a batch of bearings loosing their dust shields. Ralph @ serpent sent me a pack of the high speed bearings for free. They rock, so much smoother. I suggest you get them if you haven't already. Glad you're enjoying the Xray, I knew you would like it better than the HPI Pro 3. Stock drive train is fine for me as I only run stock motors here. Good luck, im racing this weekend. Are you?

[ronvdp]

It's nice to see some activity here. I just got my new Evo 2 put together, I tried to leave a pic but am not sure if it worked. What do you guys think? A friend did the paint job for me.

I am interested in the new solid center layshaft for use with the oneway and am also looking for other peoples feedback that have used it and what difference it made.

Another question is where are most of you setting your front turnbuckles on the bellcrank? I have mine on the outer mounting position and it seems to give the inside wheel a little more movement at the end point. I still haven't been to the track but am looking forward to a good day with the car.

Cheers.:D

[Devin]

Paint job looks good. I haven't had any trouble steering. The car handles perfectly.

[Dr. Techn0]

Man! I can't believe the difference, :D

I've been searching for part#305502 Solid Center Layshaft throughout Southern California but nobody carries them so the other day I mentioned this to my nephew who happens to have an extra set. I installed it and was down at the track (Socal Raceway) yesterday and boy! let me tell you what a difference this made. The car is much smoother going into corners and accelerate out with more power. Now I don't have to worry about the old layshaft loosening up after I tried to tighten it after a few runs. This thing is *light!* about 5 times lighter then the stock ones. Oh, I can go one size bigger on the pinion=SPEED! :D

Devin,

I got an extra new chassis so if you need it, PM me and let me know. Would like to help.:) :) :)

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by nomac
anyone trying to sell an x-ray?

There's a couple of them on Ebay I think. Want might to do a search. ;)

Dr. Techn0

[Devin]

Originally posted by Dr. Techn0
Man! I can't believe the difference, :D

I've been searching for part#305502 Solid Center Layshaft throughout Southern California but nobody carries them so the other day I mentioned this to my nephew who happens to have an extra set. I installed it and was down at the track (Socal Raceway) yesterday and boy! let me tell you what a difference this made. The car is much smoother going into corners and accelerate out with more power. Now I don't have to worry about the old layshaft loosening up after I tried to tighten it after a few runs. This thing is *light!* about 5 times lighter then the stock ones. Oh, I can go one size bigger on the pinion=SPEED! :D

Devin,

I got an extra new chassis so if you need it, PM me and let me know. Would like to help.:) :) :)

Thanks... The cuts are just little nicks in the chassis and I think they will hold, but i'll let you know.

So you do not run a mid One way huh so you went with the solid axle? I believe you run a front one way right? How is the stability while braking with this combo? Does it swing out a lot while braking?

Currently I have the mid one way locked so the 305502 could be a good consideration to use. This weekend if the first time i'll be racing on carpet and it's pretty twisty. I'll post results what I think my setup will be the best. I really do need the 305215 (spring steel wheel axle front w/hex hub) Mine do bend up a bit and it's hard to get away from the front knuckle (Still running pivot ball suspension)

These could be a good thing to get after I get the handle for carpet racing (I still will be running asphalt racing when it gets warmer in the spring)

Thanks for the info.

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by Devin
Thanks... The cuts are just little nicks in the chassis and I think they will hold, but i'll let you know.

So you do not run a mid One way huh so you went with the solid axle? I believe you run a front one way right? How is the stability while braking with this combo? Does it swing out a lot while braking?

Currently I have the mid one way locked so the 305502 could be a good consideration to use. This weekend if the first time i'll be racing on carpet and it's pretty twisty. I'll post results what I think my setup will be the best. I really do need the 305215 (spring steel wheel axle front w/hex hub) Mine do bend up a bit and it's hard to get away from the front knuckle (Still running pivot ball suspension)

These could be a good thing to get after I get the handle for carpet racing (I still will be running asphalt racing when it gets warmer in the spring)

Thanks for the info.

Devin,

About front one-way, yes I run that and it's working great! You do want to set the braking on your radio to no more than 20~25%. That ways, when you apply brake, it actually acts as if downshifting instead of braking allowing you to go through the corners at high-speed without slipping. Pair that with the solid layshaft and you'll have "one smooth turning machine!". What I sometimes do is when full throttle straights just before the turn, I would downshift and turn into at almost full throttle. Once I got the hang of it, I can be loosing my straightaway to a 6t but catch up and out turn any cars out there and come out at front while the 6t is still trying to correct it's turnout. I learn this from a guy name Jimmy Fukuyama who is purely awesome and knows the XRAY inside out.

Oh, I'll PM you regarding the front SS axle.

Dr. Techn0

[ronvdp]

Dr. Techno,

sorry to butt into your conversation-

Are you saying that you adjust your radio and/or esc to a 25% limit at maximum brake trigger? Would it be similar running stock motors or completely different. If I'm not mistaken the stock motors have more natural drag brake than mods-are you running any drag brake at all on your mod motor?

Thanks and Great information!

BTW are you talking about SoCal?? I'd like to make it down there soon and see your driving technique. I'm still very much a beginner.

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by ronvdp
Dr. Techno,

sorry to butt into your conversation-

Are you saying that you adjust your radio and/or esc to a 25% limit at maximum brake trigger? Would it be similar running stock motors or completely different. If I'm not mistaken the stock motors have more natural drag brake than mods-are you running any drag brake at all on your mod motor?

Thanks and Great information!

BTW are you talking about SoCal?? I'd like to make it down there soon and see your driving technique. I'm still very much a beginner.

Hi Ron,

Yes, you set the radio to the desired braking of 20~25% depending of your radio. The drag is set to minimum or a little above that. Stock motors tend to have more torque and less rpm whereas the mods are less torque and higher rpm. Bare in mind that your rear diff in this case has to set just right and not too tight or else you'll have too much traction when punching through the turn. Instead, lighten the rear diff traction by a bit so you'll have good rotational speed yet enough traction. Its hard to explain but I'm trying. LOL

I do go down to SoCal once in awhile but haven't found time lately. I do know a few good racers there. I'm just a beginner myself. LOL..

Dr. Techn0

[Devin]

I raced this weekend for the first time since mid October 2002 and it went pretty well. Running stock touring with any 6 cell. I run GP 3300, Novak GT7 ESC and Trinity's new Monster stock motor with 90/26 gearing. I was holding speed in my class, but alot of people were faster. Even though it was a short twisty track I never braked onced so I think I would benifit from a front one way dif and that solid mid axle. All in all, very good race day. :)

[Devin]

Well I picked up a front one way... we'll see how it runs :)

[ronvdp]

Dr. Techno is right on with his setup suggestion. I went to SoCal raceway today for my first runs with the Evo2 and it was awesome. I am a total newbie but was able to get around quite well-I even held my own against Barry Baker! OK he was screwing around with an RTR TC3 but hey, it was fun to pretend-very cool guy BTW.

Anyway, it drove beautifully. I pretty much headed full speed towards the 180's and let off the throttle, gave a good amount of brake which just slowed the car a bit. Driving with a one way the steering while braking was great, allowing me to turn the car just enough to cut the turn tight and be in perfect position to gun it right away. Most of the time anyway, you just have to get the timing right but it wasn't difficult at all.

Just my $.02

[Dr. Techn0]

Good job ronvdp!,

Thanks for the compliements. I was planning to go to Socal today but things just wasn't catching up. LOL.

I'm glad you like my suggestion and it works. Now, if mount the Sorex 36R with HPI green and Paragon the rubber just before racing, you'll be able to brake, throttle, brake, full throttle out of the tight "S" turn in the middle of the track and leave everybody behind the dust going down the straightaway.

One thing to note, here's my Socal Settings:

Front:

Camber: -1
Toe-in:0
caster: (2mm clip in the back)
ride height: 5mm (because you've got to clear the oval slope)
downstop: 2
antidive: 3

Rear:

Camber: 1.5
Toe-in: -2
ride height: 6mm
downstop: 6
antidive: 0

These are the basic settings that worked great at Socal!

Dr. Techn0

[ronvdp]

Thanks for the setup numbers! I'll try them next time which I hope is soon. My biggest issue now is having enough batteries/chargers. I only brought one charger so there was a little time between runs, next time I'll have two and a few more batteries.

Do you know what the recommended spur/pinions are for a P2K2 pro and maybe for the new Monster horsepower stock motor-at SoCal? There were plenty of Xrays there but I forgot to ask that.

[Devin]

What gearing are you currenlty using? 48 pitch or 64? Im running 48 pitch with the monster horsepower with 26/90 gearing and it works well. You might be able to bump up to a 27 or 28 but you don't want to over gear the motor. Glad you like the car!

[jmo]

Speedworld Raceway now has X-ray cars and parts in stock. They are selling EV0-2's for $299.99. www.speedworldraceway.com or 916-783-8864

[PCC]

Dr. Techn0, I will be back in Irvine/Laguna Hills on February 7. Wanna meet up then? I wanna see the the T1R as well as pick up the front one-way and the rear tower. BTW, do you happen to have the part number for the T1R chassis plate and front upper bumper plate? Thanks!

[ronvdp]

What's a T1R?? A new Xray model maybe?

[Devin]

I'm thinking about dropping down to a 87 spur with a 26-29 pinion. I need some more speed on the straights. They're people running TC3's that are pulling 47-50 laps in 5 minutes when I can only reach 43's. (im sure if I stayed off the boards that would help too!)

[ronvdp]

Ditto,

I have similar problems with top speed on the straight, the one at my track is quite long and I can hear my motor topping out in the rpm's about a fourth of the way through. I've been running 28/93 and then tried a 30/90 but the motor gets real hot with that gearing. I've been told the new Trinity monster stock has a higher rpm range than the P2K2 pro so I'll try that next. It does seem that other people are a bit faster than me in the straight and I keep wondering if there is some other issue that I don't know about here.

Recommendations anyone??

[Dr. Techn0]

ronvdp,

I'm assuming you're talking about Socal Raceway?
Try running a 90/29. It works for me at your track. Also, change your brushes along with some 175 springs should do the trick and allow you more torque as well. This is on a P2KP.

If you're planning to run the Monster like some of the others, you may want to try and lower the pinion to 26 or 27. This will make your car fast!

I'm running a 12t double and using 64p gearing. The combo that works for me is, 120t, 41t. Very high but the motor is warm to touch. It'll take on 10 turns easily because the XRAY is so efficient. :D

Dr. Techn0

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by PCC
Dr. Techn0, I will be back in Irvine/Laguna Hills on February 7. Wanna meet up then? I wanna see the the T1R as well as pick up the front one-way and the rear tower. BTW, do you happen to have the part number for the T1R chassis plate and front upper bumper plate? Thanks!
Hi PCC,

Sorry we didn't get hooked up last time. Hopefully the next time. As for Feb 7, I'll be in Japan so can't make it. But I'm sure you'll be down in Irvine a lot this year right? Anyway, we'll get hooked up again.. The T1R I have is unbuilt and comes with some molded parts that looks like it's specially molded for prototyping. It was sent to my nephew. The chassis looks good though. Comes with composite C-hubs. I think this racer edition is going to be in competition with the mid-range cars. The quality is still XRAY so from the looks of it, it'll be a breeze to build and the fitting is as good as the EVO2. There's not that much of list of parts but there are some. Most parts are interchangable with the EVO2 so maybe the EVO2 can utilize some of the T1R's parts as well.

I was asked by my nephew to not disclose too much info on this car yet since it'll be out shortly so I'm going to keep my promise. ;)

Dr. Techn0

[Devin]

I never ran less than a 19 turn on the xray. It has to be amazing to have that much speed like a 12 turn double. How fast do your batteries drain at those speeds? The only class in carpet racing is 27 turn stock and I really like the monster stock. I should start running 64 pitch gears cause that's what I use with my 12th scale RC12L3 than I could have gearing that matches both cars. And all the fast guys run 64 pitch so it's easier to compare gearing if you're all using the same pitch. Looks like i'll go out today and buy a bunch of 64 pitch stuff and start experimenting.

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by Devin
I never ran less than a 19 turn on the xray. It has to be amazing to have that much speed like a 12 turn double. How fast do your batteries drain at those speeds? The only class in carpet racing is 27 turn stock and I really like the monster stock. I should start running 64 pitch gears cause that's what I use with my 12th scale RC12L3 than I could have gearing that matches both cars. And all the fast guys run 64 pitch so it's easier to compare gearing if you're all using the same pitch. Looks like i'll go out today a