HPI Nitro RS4, Nitro RS4 Racers, Nitro RS4 RTR, and Super Nitro RS4 forum

[SuperStar]

last one...my Super with my nitroMT

[fat cat]

Hey,fellows help!!!!!!!.

I'm looking for a way to mount wide tires on the front of my sn rs4.I have a set of kyosho wide rims,they fit perfectly but the arm on the front nuckle rubs,does anyone no if there is another way around this to make this work???????

THANKS:
FAT CAT

[poopie]

Can someone with the big block post a pic of their slide carb linkage? I'm trying to set mine up so I can finally play with my super. As of now, i have the slide opening torwards the rear and the throttle linkage running behind the carb. Then the brake runs on the opposite arm and actuates the brake towards the rear. I'll post a pic. I just want to make sure i have it right before i cut the linkage and bend the parts. Thanks. I'll post a pic later

[poopie]

http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/1145723.jpg

[poopie]

http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/1145836.jpg
http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/1145838.jpg
http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/1145841.jpg

[Lost Racer1]

Anyone know how long the universals are from tip to tip? I have a Mugen Prime 12 and was hoping to apply the HPI universals to it. Thanks.

[show2ime]

what type enine mounts did u use to get the bb in the car? I want to put a .21 in mine but I want to know some further details about gearing, etc. are those rr pulleys? do they help? are the the stock tooth pulleys??

[poopie]

It is a Wolfpack Radicals conversion ann i'm pretty sure they are RRP pulleys and i believe they are stock gearing as well.

[popsracer]

Here is a so so picture of my Super Nitro bought in 5/99.

Popsracer,

[popsracer]

Guys;

After looking at the Set-up page for the HPI: Nitro3. I noticed that they added some new Camber link mounting positions over the Nitro2/RTR2 Cars.

So what I did was to Duplicate those same positions on my Sons Nitro2 by making some modifications to the inboard ballstud mounts. I re-drilled the mounts (A471,#7) so they could be flipped over, raising the position of the ballstud to be the same as a Nitro3. I then moved the ballstud on the Rear Hubs to position #6 (upper/inner) and used the kits plastic camber links to connect. This ended up giving me -1 deg camber in the rear.
All I can say is WOW what a difference in the handling of this car. The rear end is much more planted in the corners AND the car has more overall steering. I don't think ANYTHING has ever had such a positive impact on the handling as this mod.

On the Racer2, this would be the upper hole for the hinge-pin in the rear arms and position #6 (upper/inner) in the Rear Hubs.

Longtime HPI racers will agree that these cars are quite NUMB to suspension changes.
I try to upload some picture later if anyone is interested.

Popsracer

[A-SD1]

Pops!

Yes, very interested in pictures.
Please post.

[Rookie Solara]

What brand is that gas tank that you are using...? I am interest to know cause I am using the Kyosho Inferno 7.5 one now....is that a Mugen tank...?

Also, are those Foam tires for Super.....? Can you share with us where to get those..?

Thanks.......

Last, I am not sure why ppl not doing the original way about the HPI throttle linkage......? Let the carb slide toward the FRONT of the car instead of the rear.....(turn the carb around like it came from the factory)....I used the OFNA linkage pack and it works, I will post picture later.....

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/2speed/P0003364.JPG

[popsracer]

Rookie Solara;

Nice to see you here from the RC-Tech forum.

I also run my slide carb linkages to the front. It is a tight fit, but you eliminate all that flex from having to go around the carb and filter.
Have you had a chance to RUN your Super Yet. I'm interested in how well the Assoc. 2spd works. It has gotta be easier on the One-way bearing than the HPI 2spd set-up.

I'm using a Mugen 1/10 scale tank. The lid fits tighter and it has a bronze filter inside. I also have another upper-deck with the 7.5 tank on it, but I don't use it much.

Guys;

The Sun is out today so I will try taking some pictures of the Nitro2 Camber link Mod. (it's really simple)

Popsracer.

[poopie]

You can pickup foams on ebay usually. They work ok. I got a chance to run it a little and my receiver is very glitchy so I'm gonna install all new radio gear soon. It is an ofna 125cc fuel tank for a wolfpack radicals chassis. It would be much easier to run the linkage to the front of the car but i don't have the clearance to do it. Running it to the rear is my only option. This is because I run a big block nova rossis and it a little larger then a normal .15 sized engine.

[Rookie Solara]

Yeah, I figured it has to do with the size of the big block .21 engine....btw, mine is a MT-12 engine cause I am trying to stay STOCK so I am ready for HPI challenge this year.............

Well, I used my 125cc tank for the 15 minutes main.......and I have a OEM 7.5cc with another upper deck for the HPI challenge.

We still have some snow around here in Chicago, and I don't see I will get my SNRS4 break-in until..............2003 April, well, I don't think I should run my car on 6" of snow, right..?

Nice to see you too popsracer........my goal is to make my 98% stock SNRS4 fast, and the last thing I want to add on my HPI are after market parts - UNLESS is necessary (like my SG crank engine modification and that POS 2-speed clutch)

I believe that clutch should work like NTC3 or others like Serpent/mugen/Yo or V1RR.........100 times better (looks like to me...) then the single BLADE idea from HPI.

Oh yeah, my bad........I have the Serpent adjustable shocks for the SNRS4........10 times better and smoother...OK 95% stock SNRS4 now....

[BlueMaxx]

What would you guys recommend for a new guy's first hop-up engine? I have a Super Nitro RS4 w/ a Lambo body. For the record, I'm planning on staying with HPI equipment, so I've been looking at the 15SC. OS CVs also looks good, but more expensive.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by BlueMaxx
What would you guys recommend for a new guy's first hop-up engine? I have a Super Nitro RS4 w/ a Lambo body. For the record, I'm planning on staying with HPI equipment, so I've been looking at the 15SC. OS CVs also looks good, but more expensive.

I have a 95% new OS .12 CVR or if you want HPI, I have a brand new (again, never used) HPI .12 SS (black) engine.......$80 for the OS and $90 on the HPI....

Both engine are over 1.1 HP.......perfect for newbie.

[Rookie Solara]

Double post.......sorry

[BlueMaxx]

Is there any advantage to running a .15 over a .12 in a larger 1/10 like the SN? Like more torque with the larger displacement? Or would a .12SC non-pullstart really make a difference over the stock engine and get the car roaring? I'm kinda torn between the .15SC and .12SC (I like HPI's engines because replacement parts are cheaper). What do you recommend?

Also, what's a larger gas tank (w/o primer) that can be dropped into a stock upper deck?

[popsracer]

BlueMaxx;

Within the Same Brand and type of engine the answer is YES. Example: an O.S. .15 CVR will have more Torque than the .12 CVR.

There are just too many variables to compare different brands of engines without running each one on some kind of Dyno.

If you swapping engines in a T-Maxx, you are going to REALLY miss that EZ-Start.

Popsracer

[popsracer]

OK Guys;

Here is the Before and After pictures of the Nitro-2 Rear Camber link Mod.

BEFORE Picture:

[popsracer]

Next pic.

The RED is where the Ballstuds are mounted on the other side. This angle shows more clearly than a Front view.
You will need to drill the original "screw" hole on the inboard mount with a 3mm (.118) bit so it will fit on the alignment pin. Then drill the original "pin" hole with a 2mm (.078) bit so the screw can thread all the way in. USA drill bits should work fine. Just don't make either hole too large.

AFTER Modification:

[SykoBMW]

I just purchased an HPI Nitro RS4 RTR 3. I know there are things I need to get it running, what is it I need to have when it finally arrives? What fuel should I get? Also, what tools are needed? Here are a few pics of my M3 GTR Body, when it gets here I'll post some pics of it next to my dads 02' M3. The stars are painted on.

http://ebay3.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_916adab0df22d1888730ee2fe522e429/i-1.JPG http://ebay3.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_916adab0df22d1888730ee2fe522e429/i-2.JPG http://ebay3.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_916adab0df22d1888730ee2fe522e429/i-3.JPG http://ebay3.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_916adab0df22d1888730ee2fe522e429/i-4.JPG

[BlueMaxx]

Does anyone know if altering a graphite upper deck to fit a larger gas tank is possible? I was thinking about using a cutter on my Dremel and smoothing it with a sanding wheel, but would that splinter the graphite? Could I just cover the cut edge with epoxy to keep it from coming apart?

[bigmike216]

if you cut the graphite, make sure to seal the edges with CA glue. You can cut graphite with a fine tooth saw.

[bigmike216]

.

[SykoBMW]

What kind of motor/size comes in the Nitro RS4 RTR 3?

[bigmike216]

The RTR3 comes with the .15FE engine. While it's not a racing engine, it's a great first engine, it's easy to tune because of it's single needle carb.

[Rookie Solara]

Here is mine......90% stock, only the side alum. brace (I lose the plastic one), bigger tank (the one from Inferno 7.5) Serpent adjustable shocks (from my old Impulse PRO), and carbon Y-brace (came with the car)......I am using a MT-12 SG crank engine with Wolfpack 2-speed housing along with Team Assoicate clutch shoes and I will run with the RS-12 T5 next season.......hope I can hang with my friends' SNRS4.

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/P0003417.JPG

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/P0003418.JPG

I don't like the way HPI did on the throttle linkage, this is what I did and it works much better, faster and more direct.

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/P0003419.JPG

This is the Inferno 7.5 tank, I have to enlarge the opening on the HPI plastic upper deck at the FRONT to able to mount this tank, but I am still using the REAR hole (original) to mount this tank, work perfectly........if you have a carbon upper deck, you better use the plastic one instead and keep the carbon one for the 75cc tank or HPI challenge.

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/P0003424.JPG

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/P0003425.JPG

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/P0003426.JPG

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/P0003427.JPG

[silverbullet]

Where do you get one of those K&N air filters? What model number is that one? Thanks.

[Rookie Solara]

I've got mine thru the LHS, check your LHS and ask for filter like that, there is no such model # on that since SOMEONE had contract with k&N and use their idea to create this type of filter....but that is close enough and it is life time filter.

I've got it for $19.95 thru my LHS, and you have to let them know what engine that you are using since engine like OS, Sirio and others have different diameter inlet on the intake then the Nova Rossi and RB's.........they are different.

Also, you can check with EBAY (they still have that for RC car), however, I had friend received the wrong type of filter instead of the one for Nova Rossi, so you have to mention what engine that you are using for.

[BlueMaxx]

Would cutting down the stinger on a tuned pipe (specifically the CVEC) adversely affect performance? I'm thinking of installing one on my SNRS4 and the stingers are really long...

[Rookie Solara]

No....that won't matter.....but I suggest you to get the Paris Turbo Ring pipe - dirt cheap like $25. lots of low-end and great high end power.

[macman]

Paris racing has (1)that K&N made for them without the heavy metal.
approx. $12.00.
the one on the above car is a breather filter for valve covers. they come in different I.D.

I used them when I first got into Nitro.
but when you clean that filter next time .
Look thru the small hole while under brite light you will see many point of light where there is NO filter material.

MAC
:rolleyes:

[NitroRs4StrtRcr]

Do coil over shocks help out the handling of a nitro rs4 and does the nitro hamdling kit help at all?

[RCCarFreak]

Here's some pics of my Super and the specs. I won numerous races and three trophies with it last summer:

ESLROC - Pepsi 400 - 1st Place - Super Nitro Division
ESLROC - Rookie of the Year - Super Nitro Division
Redmond Hobbies Porsche Cup - 2nd Place - Super Nitro A Main

(www.redmondhobbies.com / www.eslroc.com)

Wicked car. Love the thing to death. It feels like a tank compared to my NTC3, but it's a blast to race it. :D

Specs:
HPI #A935 Graphite Rear Brace Set
HPI #73003 Graphite Rear Shock Tower
HPI #1906 Nitro Star Pro 12R SC Evolution II Non-PS Slide Carb 1.25hp
HPI #A869 Slide Carb Linkage Set
HPI #A970 Tuned Pipe and Header
HPI #A907 Aluminum Gear Brace Set
HPI #A885 Nitro Racing Clutch
HPI #72170 Threaded Aluminum Shock Set
HPI #Z679 Aluminum Purple Wheel Nuts
HPI #B020 5x8x2.5mm Ball Bearing Set (X2 - used in steering bellcranks)
HPI #A911 2-Speed Transmission (12/46, 15/43)
HPI #72215 Gear Diff Adjustment Spring Set (Front-Gold, Rear-Black)
HPI #A926 Non-Pullstart Lightweight Flywheel 32mm
HPI #A732 Urethane Rear Belt S3M 180 (60T) 5.5mm
HPI #9074 Receiver Protector Small (Purple)
HPI #72016 Stainless Steel Hinge Pin Set
HPI #A521 Universal Dogbones (front)
HPI #A522 Universal Dogbones (rear)
GPM #SN4014V Aluminum Upper Deck For Large Tank
OFNA 30280 125cc Large Fuel Tank
POWERLINE #2009 Aluminum Steering Bellcranks
RRP #1538 18T Aluminum Pulleys (X2)
RRP #1535 Aluminum Gear Adapter 44T (if running single speed)
ORION 1100mah Receiver Pack
CROSS #HS-52GP Front Arm Support
CVEC #SD5 Silicone Pipe Deflectors
Various HPI 25mm and 27mm Springs
Various Trinity and Associated Shock Oils
Purple Anodized Aluminum Motor Mounts
JR RIDE Tires (Various Compounds)
HPI Tires (Various Compounds)
Airtronics 94757 Digital Servo (Steering)
Motor Saver Air Filter
O.S. #8 Glow Plugs
HPI #73004 Graphite Upper Deck (Backup/75cc Regulated Races)
HPI #72525 Racing Fuel Tank 75cc (Backup/75cc Regulated Races)

[RCCarFreak]

...and one of my bodies from last year:

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by NitroRs4StrtRcr
Do coil over shocks help out the handling of a nitro rs4 and does the nitro hamdling kit help at all?

Coilover does NOT help you on handling issue, springs, oils, dampers are the factor that helps your handling.......Coilover just a little bit easier to RAISE and LOWER your car overall heiight, it does NOT harden the springs or soften the springs, but with a little lowered on the springs (the whole chassis got lowered) more DOWN force will create, that helps on handling.

[mckrooz]

Hey guys, I just bought my bro an RS4 for xmas. We just finished building it and noticed that with the stock bushings, the car hardly rolls. Is this common or do we have to run the car to get everything broken in? We greased all the bushings when we installed them. The brakes are not dragging. I bought mine with ball bearings so mine rolls fine. So I'm thinking it's the crappy stock bushings. It's an older version but was new in the box. Do the new kits come with ball bearings?

[mckrooz]

Ok, we figured something out after taking it apart again. We had to ream out the hole that the diff shaft goes into on the diff pulley set. It runs better now but is still sluggish. I'd say maybe 15 mph.

Does anyone know what head would fit on the .12E? We really need to get rid of this cast one.

[GregGilbert]

Hello all. I just got a RS4 to use as a beater. I have looked both on HPI's site and on here, and still have a few questions.

1. Does anyone have part numbers for front and rear body posts? The front bumper is fine, but all four posts are mangled pretty badly.

2. Maybe a dumb question, but what is the spring loaded thing on the top of the fuel tank. Does it cut the fuel supply so you can run the engine completely out of fuel without emptying the tank or what? If so, thats pretty cool!

3. What would you expect top speed to be (realistically) with the stock FE .12, with the HPI tuned pipe, and two-speed transmission; 12/46, 15/43?

4. Lastly, sorry to be a pain, but if someone wouldnt mind posting here or e-mailing me part numbers for whatever I need to rid the suspension of "slop". The front is of course bad, but even the rear (where the lower A-arms mount to the chassis) is sloppy too.

Sorry for the long post, and "list" of questions, but I need help, and this seems to be the place! :) Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks, and Happy New Year!
Greg

[PCC]

1. Does anyone have part numbers for front and rear body posts? The front bumper is fine, but all four posts are mangled pretty badly.
parts tree A371 has both front and rear posts and some extra parts, too.

2. Maybe a dumb question, but what is the spring loaded thing on the top of the fuel tank. Does it cut the fuel supply so you can run the engine completely out of fuel without emptying the tank or what? If so, thats pretty cool!
It's the primer on the fuel tank. Ypu use it to get fuel from the tank to the engine.

3. What would you expect top speed to be (realistically) with the stock FE .12, with the HPI tuned pipe, and two-speed transmission; 12/46, 15/43?
You mean the 15FE, rihgt? It's about 35MPH or so.

4. Lastly, sorry to be a pain, but if someone wouldnt mind posting here or e-mailing me part numbers for whatever I need to rid the suspension of "slop". The front is of course bad, but even the rear (where the lower A-arms mount to the chassis) is sloppy too.
Welcome to the wonderful world of HPI cars...

[GregGilbert]

PCC...Thanks big-time. I appreciate the info. All I gotta do is mount the reciever, and Im ready to rock! :)

Thanks,
Greg

[poopie]

aluminum steering components help the slop a little bit. But HPIs do have a lot of slop in steering.

[GregGilbert]

Edit- I had a question regarding the suspension, but I found the ownews manual thing on HPI's site. Thanks.

Greg

[GregGilbert]

Well, here is the RS4 I recently aquired. Its the one with the black, red, blue, and white Ford GT-40 body. I still have not ran it yet, but basically all I know about it is that is has the titanium frame, belt tensioner, 2 spd. trans, lightweight flywheel, heat-sink head, and tuned pipe. It also came with an assortment of gears and belts.

Anxiously awaiting dry pavement!
Greg

[Paul_D]

I've got a Racer 2 that I put a megatech m16 engine in. With the gears that came w/ the kit (44 spur, 15 clutch bell) the engine was SUPER tight. I couldn't get the spur to turn without considirable difficulty. After considering grinding on the mounting holes (which I just knew I'd screw up) I got a 14t cb. It's now loosened to the point where it's about perfect mesh, but what will going 1 tooth lower on the cb affect?

Couple other q's - I'm also having some problems with the throttle/brake linkage. The engine is a slide carb, and the servo pieces that came with the kit don't seem to line up properly. Can someone post a pic of how it's supposed to look? There are small set screws on the edges of the suspension arms near the gear hubs - do they have something to do with the ride height? One more - How tight are the belts supposed to be? They don't seem too tight the way they are now, but I'm not sure what too loose is either. Thanks for any help you can give, I've got a NMT but this is my first car, and first kit. It's driving me nuts that I can't run it yet.

[mckrooz]

Scroll up and see how Rookie Solara has his slide carb set up.

To my understanding, a smaller tooth clutch bell will result in faster bottom end and a higher clutch bell will yield higher top speeds. I'm not sure what set screws you're talking about. As far as the belts, if you don't have a belt tensioner and everything is built right, the middle belt will seem very loose. But it should be ok. The side and rear belt are pretty tight. Maybe 1/8- 1/4" of play.

[Saboteur]

I also have the megatech m16 engine on my neo tnt. It run greats and offers plenty of power/speed for bashing.
http://thercfinatic11203.tripod.com I have an old pic of the linkage setup there on my ride. Ill try to get a picture of the new one.

[team_luigis]

Rookie Solara ur rs4 looks really well set-up how do u stand at ur track whit this car compared to the ntc3?

can u tell me ur advice beetween ntc3 and rs4
thanks

[Paul_D]

Saboteur, I've got a m16 in my NMT also and have had good luck with it in the truck. The pics on your site and above pretty much cleared up the linkage question, I need new servo pieces to get it right.

[Saboteur]

Thanks man. BTW the linkage on my ride now resembles the other setups on other nitro sedans that have their throttle servo mounted horizontally.

[superofna]

I got it, built it, haven't run it due to the @!#%#@$% weather. Will keep you posted.

The parts look really good, the chassis is really stiff and feels much more substantial than the stock chassis.

The engine is an OS 15RX that was ported and is maintained by CB Racing. Can't wait to run it!

[dvargas99]

Hey RJB That is one badass Celica. I like it. what kind of engine are you running.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by team_luigis
Rookie Solara ur rs4 looks really well set-up how do u stand at ur track whit this car compared to the ntc3?

can u tell me ur advice beetween ntc3 and rs4
thanks

To be honest, I cannot compare these 2 cars like this.....but if I have to pick only ONE car, I will pick NTC3 without a doubt, just simply faster and quciker...period.

However, I don't see my SnRS4 is that far off, it is because I use the same engine on her (Nova Rossi RS-12 T5) same setup like NTC3 (similar) but the disadvantage is bigger and heavier (turning will never be like NTC3 that quicK) also, shaft drive is almost the most powerfull weapon right now on Nitro touring, but my goal on the SNRS4 is to beat those .15 powered Serpent IMPACT and 1/8th Vector......you might think I am crazy, but my buddy did that last season with his 95% STOCK HPI SNRS4.....and I try to be like him, thatss why I don't have alloy this and carbon that all over my car.......just good engine, great shocks (serpent adjustable) and driving skills.

To sums it all, HPI Super Nitro is not as UNIQUE as those highend Touring car like Serpent IMPACT but it is still fast enough to race with, as long as you know how to set up the car.

[jjl]

email me at john.limb@oandb.com for info.

[PCC]

Umm, wrong forum?

[C0NTENDER]

It's a little early, but who is going to the HPI Challenge in NJ this year. More important, who plans on racing a super at the challenge.

[mckrooz]

I wonder if anyone can help me out. I went to the track for the first time today and was slightly dissappointed. My car can't handle worth s***! My car is seriously under steering around the turns. I was sitting there watching all the TC3's and Serpents just fly around the corners while I'm sliding into the wall and breaking stuff. Here's my setup

Nitro RS4
OS CV-X Hyper
2-speed transmission
CVEC pipe
front purple sway
Red rear sway
purple springs all around
camber is set at stock
HPI X-Pattern tires 26mm

All the other guys were running foams.

Whats wrong with my setup. I bought the car from a guy who's been racing for a long time and I thought it was already setup to race.

[Saboteur]

If your car is understeering you might want to go with a stiffer spring set and thicker shock oil. That should make the car a bit more responsive. Also try running slicks or just go with foams; BTW you describe your situation, Im guessing the HPI tires arent hooking up at all. I suggest you change the tires and run foams like the others since thats the choice most drivers are using. Just make sure the car is sitting low and you have a thicker shock oil and stiffer springs if the ones that comes with your ride arent. Foams offer better traction that rubber tires and if your suspension setup is too soft or your car is sitting a bit high off the ground, you may flip it.

[racewithmepleez]

sup fellas..

got a quick question here about gearing..
FYI:
HPI's RACER2
XTM .18
bored out rc 10 tuned pipe
..anyways, just swap the stock 2 speed 13t/15t clutchbell to
15t/18t without changing the stock 2 speed spur..44t/41t
it pulls really well, but I was wondering , how does the 39t spur
with 18t bell make any difference compare to 18t/41t??

does that make sense?
BTW, if I do the 18t/39t, I know i have to switch back to 13t for first just to mesh properly..thanks..

oh, and currently, I'm running the 13t/20t cb and 44t/37t spur...talking about warp speed!! But it kinda lags a bit when it hit 2nd..........then boom..your gone!!

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by mckrooz

Nitro RS4
OS CV-X Hyper
2-speed transmission
CVEC pipe
front purple sway
Red rear sway
purple springs all around
camber is set at stock
HPI X-Pattern tires 26mm



If you are saying your friends Serpent and NTC3 are passing you left and right.......thats very much it will happen no matter what you do on your RS4, you should think about cars like that for chagne.

However, I did see ppl have a really nice tunned RS4 and can HANG with big guns like Serpent and NTC3....your first thing to do are the SHOCKS and springs...also, don't follow everyone's move on SWAY bar, that is something you should work on AFTER you finsihed the shock first....sway bar DOES NOT work all the time...

Try thicker oil, less holes on damper, and harder springs in front.

Then use ligher oil, MORE holes on damper, and softer springs in rear......

Don't use the HARDEST in front and SOFTEST in rear.....make them ONE level difference (HPI have too many different color of springs that I won't even bother to figure their science behind...I use Serpent shock and spring.)

Last......get form tires, 28 mm front (40 shore) and 30mm (37 shore) rear......

Use this setting to start........and let us know how's it handle.

Remember, ONE step at a time.......there is no STANDARD setting to be a super fast car......otherwise, whos going to buy others if there is a PERFECT car.

[mckrooz]

Thanks Rookie Solara and Sabotuer. I'll try those suggestions. I took off the front sway and it got real squirrely. I'll try things a little at a time and see how it goes.

[zuluman13]

I have a nitro rs4 but what im sking may not be related to this forum but does anyone know of a track in northern NJ because i wanted to start racing once in a while.

Anyway my rs4 has:
2-speed
fiberdisk brake
aluminum shock towers
aluminum threaded shocks
graphite upperdeck
full ball bearings
front/rear belt tensioners

I will have pictures up soon and if anyone has suggestions on modifications or setup please let me know.

[zuluman13]

sorry i also forgot the hpi cooling head and tuned pipe +header

[zuluman13]

I couldnt get the pictures to work on here but i made a site with the pics

r/c car pics (http://www.geocities.com/zuluman135/nitrors4)

[Saboteur]

Go to www.rccaraction.com , click on track directory and do a search for tracks in the NJ area. That should help you out.

[zuluman13]

o loked there i didnt find any tracks around for touring cars all there were were electric indoor courses but someone told me about a year ago that there was one but he didnt know exactly where it was

[racewithmepleez]

Originally posted by racewithmepleez
sup fellas..


FYI:
HPI's RACER2
XTM .18
how does the 39t spur
with 18t bell make any difference compare to 18t/41t??(2nd gear)


any help???

thanx

[zuluman13]

Originally posted by racewithmepleez
any help???

thanx

Th 18/39 has a higher top end and the 18/41 has better acceleration

[HKS]

Hey guys I have a question,

What's the craziest top speed gear ratio a Phantom fr12 can pull. I'm currently running the stock 2-speed gears and want new ones. It's for an RS4-2

Any help?

[racewithmepleez]

zuluman13-
thanx for the quick reply..
got another question..

will the rs4 3 individual clutchbell fit the Racer 2?

[racewithmepleez]

Originally posted by HKS
Hey guys I have a question,

What's the craziest top speed gear ratio a Phantom fr12 can pull. I'm currently running the stock 2-speed gears and want new ones. It's for an RS4-2

Any help?

13t/20t clutchbell with 44t/37t spur!!!
got that right now......and you better run it on a wide, really wide parking lot..!

[zuluman13]

Im not sure about that one you could try to contact your lhs or email hpi.

[zuluman13]

Does anybody know how to make the rs4 roll smoother mine seems to not roll very well when you push it and its supposed to have ball bearing according to the person i bought it from? Also has anyone tried the the handling kit from HPI?

[daveczrn]

Originally posted by racewithmepleez
13t/20t clutchbell with 44t/37t spur!!!
got that right now......and you better run it on a wide, really wide parking lot..!


when i first got my rs4 rtr i bought a 15-21 clutch bell. only time i ever saw it.... the proper gear mesh is 39-45
it fits fine on my rs4 with a ofna picco .21 engine so it should fit fine in all others

you might be able to get away with a 36-44 gearing but with the power of my engine it would just strip gears

[racewithmepleez]

I called HPI and they dont make that anymore,
if you know wherte I can get it let me know

[mckrooz]

I need to know what size piston comes with the RS4 kit.

[TORO1968]

Hey guys,

I've been looking into buying a nitro touring or rally car and had a few questions.

Right now I'm really interested in the following HPI cars:

RTR Super Nitro RS4
Nitro RS4 Type SS
Super Nitro Rally

Can someone give me the pros and cons of each?

I'm just looking for a car to have fun with, not to race or heavily modify. I'd like to be able to run it in parking lots and not have to worry too much about small pebbles and bumps.

I would also like to get an RTR car if possible so that I can avoid the hassle of building one of these kits from scratch. How hard are the kits to build anyway? I have a couple of electric cars that I built a number of years ago (Tamiya Fox and Kyosho Ultima), and they weren't too hard to build; so, how would one of these HPI kits compare?

Would the super nitro rally be more along the lines of what would be best for me because I wouldn't have to worry about bumps and rocks so much?

Could I run one of the super nitro rally cars in my yard?

How fast are these cars bone stock? Are the super nitros easier to drive than the 1/10 scale rs4's?

Any insight would be greatly appreciated, and sorry for asking so many questions.

Thanks,

Jordan

[josche_rs42]

get the rtr3, its just like the ss but has the 15fe engine.... stil shaft drive so u dont have to worry about pebbles as much as the belt driven cars. if u want to go ofroad and onroad, u can get the rally. personally i dont really like the super nitro coz it doesnt have a class for racing and there isnt a lot of boddies for it.

[Saboteur]

The RTR 3 isnt really like the type 3 ss. Both are shaft driven and have the same chassis setup however the rtr 3 comes with the .15fe(with new heatsink), while the SS has upgrades such as a 2speed, .12 1hp hpi engine,etc..the one you should look at if you want to race or prefer a kit with upgrades. With touring cars you should really avoid the bumps though some are small and can be driven over with ease.

[mckrooz]

I recently took apart my RS4 and found that the previous owner shimmed the A-arms. What effect does this have on the handling and what is it for? I looked at the instructions from HPI and it doesn't show anything about using shims. They were about 1mm shims.

[josche_rs42]

.

[josche_rs42]

the rtr 3 is very similar to the ss, engine may be different, has a 2speed, turnbuckles but..........................they all share the same chassis, suspension, wheels, and just about everything else

btw, i think he said he prefers an rtr, he wants to just bash and not race

[Saboteur]

I know, just pointing out a few differences. Also I said " the one you should look at IF you want to race or prefer a kit with upgrades.: :)

[racewithmepleez]

Originally posted by mckrooz
I recently took apart my RS4 and found that the previous owner shimmed the A-arms. What effect does this have on the handling and what is it for? I looked at the instructions from HPI and it doesn't show anything about using shims. They were about 1mm shims.
I think its suppose to minimize the play..

BTW- my car oversteers turning right
while it understeer turning left,
Why is that?
FYI- \its a Racer w/ a .18 XTM rear exhaust. (dunno if that helps)

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by mckrooz
I recently took apart my RS4 and found that the previous owner shimmed the A-arms. What effect does this have on the handling and what is it for? I looked at the instructions from HPI and it doesn't show anything about using shims. They were about 1mm shims.

It is simiply to eliminate the PLAY......most of the plastic parts, after long run time or hit or impact, will bent, change shape or such......adding a spacer/shims will eliminate those PLAY, so the lower arms (in your case) will ONLY swing UP and DOWN, instead of up/down, FORWARD and BACKWARD.

[racewithmepleez]

- my car oversteers turning right
while it understeer turning left,
Why is that?
FYI- \its a Racer 2 w/ a .18 XTM rear exhaust. (dunno if that helps)
anything???

[zuluman13]

Your car may not be balanced there is an article i think its in rcca or rcnitro saying that you should buy 4 really cheap kitchen scales and then you can figure out wher you should put the weight.

[sebtarta]

Does anytone have a setup for the car??? In general the caster and toe in for the car.
Good luck, :)

[sebtarta]

One more thing, i read that some put the gear brace facing up and in HPI says facing down. I know that if you put it facing up the blet will touch the clutchbell screw. But putting the brace facing down the belt forces the pulleys to bind towords the clutchbell. (this is what I read long time ago in the HPIFrorum)

Any idea regarding this issue? Thanx for the help.
Good luck, :)

[jjl]

If you check HPI's website, they've announced a pro touring car kit (no pics yet), HPI Nitro R40, and HPI RS4 Pro 4 electric. Interesting. Looking forward to some pics.

[tl01boi]

hey man i couldnt findf ne thing about the nitro r40 lol

[sebtarta]

Taken from the HPI Racing Europe (http://cgi.hpi-europe.com/news.php?article=73)

Two exciting new kits for 2003


HPI have decided to produce two exciting all-new cars in 2003, the RS4 Pro 4, and the Nitro R40. These are the highest level dedicated racing cars ever produced by HPI, they are designed specifically for maximum performance at the top level of international competition.
Exact launch dates will be confirmed later in the development process & only after extensive track testing, expect the RS4 Pro 4 and Nitro R40 to be in hobby shops toward the end of the year.

The all-new HPI Nitro R40 is designed for the increasingly popular 200mm Nitro IFMAR, ROAR, FEMCA & EFRA class of racing. The Nitro R40 will set new standards in terms of suspension tuning, transmission design & weight distribution. This will be the first dedicated racing car from HPI in the popular 1/10th scale nitro touring car class, with much higher levels of performance and features than found in our previous kits.

The Nitro R40 is built around a belt drive transmission to prevent torque steer issues in this ever increasingly powerful class. A state of the art power clutch to suit SG shafted race engines and a racing two speed will be standard equipment. The Nitro R40 will be available in kit form; an engine, pipe, radio & body are not included so the owner can choose the best equipment for specific racing applications. High performance, a long list of standard specifications & competitive market price will make the R40 an exciting addition to the 1/10th scale nitro touring car class.

As well as the impressive standard features, HPI have a range of options planned to allow racers to tune their cars, as required, to their track & the extreme variety of race conditions; our top team drivers & designers resources have been assigned to keep the Nitro R40 at the front of the field at major nitro touring car races.





The RS4 Pro 4 will be a radical departure from the RS4 Pro 3, offering a change of concept for HPI both for suspension geometry & transmission. Extensive track testing of all existing electric 1/10th scale touring cars & HPI prototypes has already been done, the all-new RS4 Pro 4 is the result of that testing.

The Pro 4 features big changes over the Pro 3... new drivetrain, new suspension, and new steering geometry. Consistency, tuning options & drivability have all been dramatically improved. The most significant change is that the Pro 4, at the requests of our drivers & customers, uses a shaft drive transmission. Track testing revealed the benefits of low maintenance & fast acceleration that a shaft drive transmission offers. Again at the requests of our customers, the RS4 Pro 4 will be supplied in self-assembly kit form with key items like the radio, ESC, body and tires left to the choice of the driver. The Pro 4 will use the highest quality materials & will have a high standard specification to make it a force at the highest level of competition.

Our team drivers will be racing the Pro 4 at all major electric touring car races around the world by the end of the year, ensuring factory support and continued development of the platform to keep up with the latest racing technology.


Hope this helps.
Good luck, :)

[mckrooz]

I just bought an O.S. CV-R with SG shaft and after reading some more, I hear it won't fit. Is there any way to make it fit? Can I just cut the pilot shaft off? Or can I use it for my 2 speed? Help please! I'm on AIM too for faster response.

AIM- mckrooz83

[sebtarta]

Wolfpack radicals just came out with some new engine mounts and flywheel for SG engines. www.wolfpack.com

Also anyone here knows what o-ring I should use for the diff. in order to use silicone oil in them??
Good luck, :)

[josche_rs42]

Originally posted by sebtarta
One more thing, i read that some put the gear brace facing up and in HPI says facing down. I know that if you put it facing up the blet will touch the clutchbell screw. But putting the brace facing down the belt forces the pulleys to bind towords the clutchbell. (this is what I read long time ago in the HPIFrorum)

Any idea regarding this issue? Thanx for the help.
Good luck, :)

if u have the 2 speed then u should have the gear brace facing the ground(belt tensioner facing ground) if u only have a single speed on then it could be facing up. the belt usually rubs the clutch bell screw if theres a 2 speed when the brace is up.

[sebtarta]

Originally posted by josche_rs42
if u have the 2 speed then u should have the gear brace facing the ground(belt tensioner facing ground) if u only have a single speed on then it could be facing up. the belt usually rubs the clutch bell screw if theres a 2 speed when the brace is up.
Hey thanx for the reply, yeah i've put the brace facing down. thanx once again.

[josche_rs42]

your welcome!!!

[FenDer BenDers]

Hey,

Looking for the best screw kit on the market for you HPI RS4 product

well look no further...

FenDer BenDer R/C
www.benderstore.com (http://www.benderstore.com)

if you want to replace those weak self tapping phillips head screws, or just looking for those hard to find fasteners, I have what you need.

and all A2-70 Stainless Steel machine thread hex head screws

so please have a look, want some fmore info ??
info@benderstore.com

thanks

[NewToNitro]

What setup should i use to fix my handleing prob...I always fishtail in a corner and its just not very stable.

[josche_rs42]

try going for a softer set-up, try mounting your shocks in different holes, and -.5 camber to start of.
whats your current set-up?

[NewToNitro]

red and white springs with like 30 or 40wt oil. I think the car is too high though. Im going to drop it to the ground and see what happens

[josche_rs42]

yea that sounds like a good set up, try getting the back lower than the front, see what happens

[bigmike216]

yeah, i'm using red and white springs with 40WT oil, and it's fairly low, it works well.

[Saboteur]

Most cars run about 5mm off the ground. Some may have a slightly higher setting upfront and a lower in the rear, vice versa, or the same ride height all around. When running foams you should opt for a stiffer spring set as well as thicker shock, fluid, and swaybars. A front oneway would also be good as foams are hard on the front diffs. Try to ask the racers what springs, shock fluid, and tires they find that hooks up well at the track. You'd get a better answer from them.

[metalry101]

K, I don't have a Super Nitro, but I might be trading for one. The one I would get needs an engine, but it comes w/ a 2-speed. I don't know if it comes w/ the exhaust stuff or not. I know it comes stock w/ a muffler, but that's gotta be a crappy way to get rid of gasses, so can you get a tuned pipe for it? Also, any suggestions for an engine? I'm thinking maybe a Fantom .15 if it would work, because they're inexpensive but supposedly really good. Also condsidering a Traxxas 2.5 or a Sirio .18. Any suggestions? Is pullstart or nonpull start better w/ this car? Or can bump start even be run? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[tl01boi]

well i wouldnt go for the .18 just because it overheats fairly quick and i dont think the 2.5s shaft will fit the 2 speed tranny i would go for the fantom or the outlaw.15

[tl01boi]

my setup for springs are the stock ones in the back and the electric rs4 springs in front the electric rs4 spring shaft thingy is shorter than the super butr i use super springs for it its like 3mm off the ground and it handles pretty good ----anyone use lead weights in the front?

[metalry101]

Any info on the exhaust system? Are there any tuned pipes for this car? Anyone else have suggestions for a sweet engine? What do you guys run?

[Saboteur]

A high end .12 will be good, yet a .15 or .21 engine will get that big car movin. BTW, wolfpack does make a conversion kit that allows HPI cars to accept engines with an SG crank. A friend of mine has the TRX 2.5 in his SN. No word on how fast it will be, but for sure, I know it is. Also, will you be racing or bashing? Oh, and you will need a .12 exhaust system for a .12 engine, .15 for a .15 and .21 for a .21. You have lots of brands to choose from.

[tl01boi]

where can i get the wolfpack conversion for a .21 i wanna put a duratrax .21 or a ofna force .21

[Mustangs_r_hott]

I have some electric RCs but i want to get an nitro rc they look tight but i dont know what to start out with. i have no clue what kit to start out with that is a little on the cheap side i dont have alot of money to throw around could some one tell me what would be the best bang for the buck that is on the cheaper side?
some one pleaze help me out? Thanx

[bbb]

Originally posted by tl01boi
where can i get the wolfpack conversion for a .21 i wanna put a duratrax .21 or a ofna force .21

http://www.brucknerhobbies.com/

[Saboteur]

Yeah Bruckner has some awesome prices on wolfpack parts. If you want something easy to start with Mustang, the HPI rtr 3 will be a great way to start. You want to step it up a bit and go for one with upgrades and a faster engine?.., look at the type 3 ss. Both cars are around 200-280. JMO, Id opt for a NTC3 though especially if you want to race later on.

[Mustangs_r_hott]

yeah i think i will be doing some racing later on! I can't wait.
oh and have you herd of the serpent 705 whats that about seems like everywere i go i here bout one.
thanx for the help.

[Saboteur]

Yeah the serpent 705 is pretty nice. Comes with a lot of upgrades. For the price, Id say it pars with the MTX-3. Its very strong as well, so crashing it wont be a problem really. One warning though, serpent parts are expensive.

[metalry101]

Anybody in here run the 2.5 in their Super Nitro? I'm considering trading for a Super Nitro w/ a 2-speed. Also, can anyone suggest a website for finding a tuned pipe for this car? If I get it I'll probably run the 2.5, so I would need an exhaust that would work with it.

[racewithmepleez]

i just bought a ball differential and installed it on the rear..
for some reason the right side of the diff (were the belt goes)
is rubbing on the bulkhead..

help pleez!!

[me43]

Originally posted by metalry101
Anybody in here run the 2.5 in their Super Nitro? I'm considering trading for a Super Nitro w/ a 2-speed. Also, can anyone suggest a website for finding a tuned pipe for this car? If I get it I'll probably run the 2.5, so I would need an exhaust that would work with it.

i would suggest going with the sirio pipe which is made for the 3.0 but i have heard many good things about this pipe working with the 2.5

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDVM2&P=7

[bigmike216]

i doubt that pipe would sit right on a SN..

[the real noxen]

Thought you guys might wanna see my winter project for my rs4

:D

http://www.xenoninternet.com/~noxen/RC/2.jpg

Yes ive fixed the crooked front grill :)

[minijosh]

A friend just gave me a RS4 and it needs some help from what I am told. It has been sitting for like a year and the engine will get gummy right? It is a .12 with a pull start on it still. Should I take the engine apart and if yes, is there someone out there with a manuel willing to part with it? I will buy if from you. This is a triple belt car and I am sure this is a HPI so I am in the right place. Now I own 2 HPI cars, Sprint and RS4. Lucky me

[team_luigis]

does anyone knows who makes those solid ball cups for the hpi nitro cars.ause the stock one from hpi arent enough solid

thanks

[team_luigis]

????:confused:

[Dropkicked]

metalry101,

I'm running a 2.5 in my super nitro. It's very fast. The big problem i'm having is controlling it. It's alot of power for the car. With it stuck in first gear it was faster off the line and faster top end then a .15FE powered super with a 2 speed. I have not even touched the low speed needle, it's still at the factory setting.

Drop

[scott roberts]

WHAT IS THE BIGEST MOTOR I CAN PUT IN MY RS4 I WANT IT TO FIT JUST LIKE THE STOCK ONE BUT I WANT THE BIGEST MOROT I CAN GET WITH OUT DOING MODIFICATIONS TO THE CHASSIE HELP ME OUT HERE I AM NEW TO STERRT CARS I WAN'T THE BIGEST MOTOR I CAN GET ?????

[fat cat]

Hello,I'm In need of some titanium cvd's or universals for a super nitro,I've tried mip,hpi cvd's and universals on my car,and nothing seems to work all they do is twist and break,is there a place that someone know of that I can purchase or have custom made titanium cvd's or universals,if so please respond or if u have any, any suggestions...


fat cat

[minijosh]

I got my nitro started and let it idle thru a entire tank of gas. I did rev the servo by hand and the gearing wanted to engage but it would touch the spur gear and nothing. It is good that nothing happened but I want to know why it didn't shoot out of my hands? Are there any racers here from Tacoma? I need your help. Is there anyone here that is willing to help me with my car? I will pay for shipping and whatever it costs to fix it.

[mcvickj]

Originally posted by minijosh
A friend just gave me a RS4 and it needs some help from what I am told. It has been sitting for like a year and the engine will get gummy right? It is a .12 with a pull start on it still. Should I take the engine apart and if yes, is there someone out there with a manuel willing to part with it? I will buy if from you. This is a triple belt car and I am sure this is a HPI so I am in the right place. Now I own 2 HPI cars, Sprint and RS4. Lucky me

Welcome to the world of nitro. It all depends on how the last owner treated the car. Usually if you are going to put the car up for a lenght of time you should put a few drops of after run oil in the engine so the inside doesn't rust.

Tearing apart the engine is very easy to do. I would recommend doing it just to see what kind of condition it is in. HPI provides a great walk through on how to rebuild a nitro engine. To find it go to HPI's website, http://www.hpiracing.com. Select Instructions on the left hand side. Then click on the link to read the walk through.

I would also suggest taking a look at the belts for any sign of wear. If you look on the bottom you will see where the belts are exposed. Sometimes rocks will get up in there and prevent the belt from moving and damage the belt. I would suggest tearing the car down to the frame. Just so you know to replace parts when the time comes.

If you scroll down the Instructions page a little further you will find a kit page for the RS4. This will show you how to take apart the RS4 and how to put it back together again.

Good Luck.

-JR

[lordxan]

Quote
RS4 MOTOR
WHAT IS THE BIGEST MOTOR I CAN PUT IN MY RS4 I WANT IT TO FIT JUST LIKE THE STOCK ONE BUT I WANT THE BIGEST MOROT I CAN GET WITH OUT DOING MODIFICATIONS TO THE CHASSIE HELP ME OUT HERE I AM NEW TO STERRT CARS I WAN'T THE BIGEST MOTOR I CAN GET ?????

if you get the wolfpack radical motor mounts you can put in a .26 or ant engine with the same size crankcase. i have a Ofna pico comp 0-1 rv and it is to fast to handle. i got it radared at 102.5MPH

[slaf]

I have an old Nitro RS4, does someone ever tried to convert this car into a 4x4 stadium truck ?

[T Maxx man]

please tell me the diff between the RS4 3 type ss and the RS4 3.i want to know what is faster and why the other is better etc... and can you post some pics:D
thankz
T Maxx man

[tl01boi]

there practicly the same the only difference is the engine lol

[PCC]

The NRS4-3 comes as an RTR while the NRS4-3SS comes as a kit. The RTR comes with a 15FE engine and single-speed while the SS comes with the 12R SS engine and two-speed. The 15FE is a decent beginner engine while the 12R SS is a race engine. The two-speed just makes the SS faster still.

[zuluman13]

I have a nitro rs4 and Im putting my .15 cv-rx engine into it what do i need to put it in. I also need a chassis that have all the screws countersunk.

[tl01boi]

Originally posted by zuluman13
I have a nitro rs4 and Im putting my .15 cv-rx engine into it what do i need to put it in. I also need a chassis that have all the screws countersunk.

hey i just put engine into my rs4 2 its pleant fast and has a little to much torque u won't need ne thing much the stock flywheel should fit

[zuluman13]

i am pretty sure i need one because i had a little fight with it trying to get it off so i want to replace it but what clutch should i get

[tl01boi]

Originally posted by zuluman13
i am pretty sure i need one because i had a little fight with it trying to get it off so i want to replace it but what clutch should i get
i use a racing clutch and a light purple ps flywheel

[ALJR]

any one here need a set of new aluminum touring car shocks?

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=134401

i also have a micro rx:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=134219

[De/\/\on~RS4]

Hey, guys ...first of all great web site. I am from Barbados..i have an HPI RS4 with an OS 15 CVR...HPI universals, HPI Heavy Duty Two Speed, Super Shock set, Graphite rear brace, RPM ball cups, among other stuff. This is one of 3 RS4's i own. I am looking for a suitable set up for Low Grip surfaces eg. Tires, Springs, Sway Bars, Shock oils and Shock Pistons etc. Its a good deal tail happy.....also I just wanted to know where i can get a graphite upper deck for this car :confused: been looking to put in an order but i want to get this part......help :D

Thanks Guys
Speed De/\/\on

[fastharry]

Originally posted by De/\/\on~RS4
Hey, guys ...first of all great web site. I am from Barbados..i have an HPI RS4 with an OS 15 CVR...HPI universals, HPI Heavy Duty Two Speed, Super Shock set, Graphite rear brace, RPM ball cups, among other stuff. This is one of 3 RS4's i own. I am looking for a suitable set up for Low Grip surfaces eg. Tires, Springs, Sway Bars, Shock oils and Shock Pistons etc. Its a good deal tail happy.....also I just wanted to know where i can get a graphite upper deck for this car :confused: been looking to put in an order but i want to get this part......help :D

Thanks Guys
Speed De/\/\on


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=a933&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go


unless the car is up to racer2 specs,then use part # a934

[N2OSupra]

am i the only one that has a Nitro RS4 now???? :confused: :(

hows everyone doing with theirs :D

[sinister]

Originally posted by N2OSupra
am i the only one that has a Nitro RS4 now???? :confused: :(

hows everyone doing with theirs :D still have my rs4 first car i ever bought now 15 cars later still have it and a 1/8 buggy. The rs4 right now is awaiting a sirio .27 pro the only thing on the car that is stock is the rear drive belt

[N2OSupra]

Originally posted by sinister
still have my rs4 first car i ever bought now 15 cars later still have it and a 1/8 buggy. The rs4 right now is awaiting a sirio .27 pro the only thing on the car that is stock is the rear drive belt

:eek:

yea my Nitro RS4 was my first car too :)
i just ordered $60 dollars worth of parts to get it in tip top shape again....mainly things that worn out and have play/slop in them
and some other maintenance items like belts, drive cups, etc.,

:D

[Toyotatogo]

Check out my ride

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=77116&perpage=25&pagenumber=7

Scroll down to the bottom ...... ;)

[simpreza2]

I have a RS4 and it was sitting in my basement for a little over a year. I decided it was time to rebuild it and get back into r/c. It was in pieces b/c i was goin to clean it but never got to it. I was looking everything over and when I tried to "pull start" the engine just to see how everything is working it is extremely hard to crank, so I decided to take the engine apart to see whats up. I got everything apart except I can get the crankshaft and 2 bearings out. Its the original engine and I broke it in and all. How hard/easy should it be to get the crankshaft out? And when I reassemble the car it says to use grease on some parts what kind of grease is it? i have a lot from working on my fullsize car but im not sure what to use and they only give u a number in the manual.

If i cant fix my current engine or if its not worth it what other engine will work/ fit easily and dont cost more the $125

Thanks
Jon

[Toyotatogo]

Originally posted by simpreza2
I have a RS4 and it was sitting in my basement for a little over a year. I decided it was time to rebuild it and get back into r/c. It was in pieces b/c i was goin to clean it but never got to it. I was looking everything over and when I tried to "pull start" the engine just to see how everything is working it is extremely hard to crank, so I decided to take the engine apart to see whats up. I got everything apart except I can get the crankshaft and 2 bearings out. Its the original engine and I broke it in and all. How hard/easy should it be to get the crankshaft out? And when I reassemble the car it says to use grease on some parts what kind of grease is it? i have a lot from working on my fullsize car but im not sure what to use and they only give u a number in the manual.

If i cant fix my current engine or if its not worth it what other engine will work/ fit easily and dont cost more the $125

Thanks
Jon


1.Did you remember to unscrew the clutch assembly (eg. nut, shoes etc?) from the threaded side of the crankshaft nearest the carburator ?

2.Did you remove the sleeve first then the connect rod , piston and piston pin intact ?

3.If yes to all then you may have to heat up the engine with a blow dryer or heat gun .... or if none around stick the motor in the oven for say 5-10 minutes at 200F *CAUTION ITEM WILL BE HOT* tap the crankshaft from the threaded side the carburator side out the opposite side the backplate side and it should slide right out..

4. As for removing the bearings you will need to purchase the "Bearing Puller Toolkit" which sells for $59.95 I know of one place that sells it www.nitrohouse.com...

5. Not worth the trouble or time or expense ... Just save up and buy another motor.. From what it sound is that you have a Stock HPI .15 FE which is a well out-dated piece of junk... Put her to rest and buy yourself a new powerplant ..

[Toyotatogo]

Originally posted by simpreza2
If i cant fix my current engine or if its not worth it what other engine will work/ fit easily and dont cost more the $125
Thanks
Jon


"Direct Bolt In .15 O.S. CV-X" ONLY $89.99

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZ30&P=7

This motor will mount/bolt right in place were the .15FE once lived...

Saved you $35.00 Dollars and much hassle if you choose this motor ..

I've owned one before and loved it "GRANDE POWER" this little darling has . :D

Use that left over $35.00 and if you haven't removed that stock blocky thing HPI calls a exhaust system and header...

Get a Tuned Pipe and Larger Header to have your OS CV-X "SCREAMIN"

Heres one for 18.39 Tuned Pipe

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?
&I=LXBMH0&P=7

And Header for 28.99
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN382&P=7

Extra $20.00 bucks and your set .. :cool:

[TimDaddie]

what all motors will fit on my rs4 racer. What do I look for when buying a motor.

[VenomRS4]

wow, i posted this thread almost 3 years ago and i went back to look at it one day and it was gone so i assumed it was deleted somehow. Well, i was wrong...here it is...and its big. Thanks everyone who have taken the time to read and and post on this thread!

ps...i dont even have a HPI car anymore :(

[dkj-M3]

same here, about 2yrs ago tho.

[gtghm]

Nitro RS4 Racer 2 car question?

How long is the stearing servo linkage that connects the tie rod ends running between the lower deck and the upper deck perpendicular to both decks.

Basicaly it's the linkage that connects the stearing together... that is the dimenson that I need.

Thanks
"g"

[azizhousecallz]

Just got two nitro cars and we are new to the game and wanted to step up to gas and leave electric behind. We have tried every tip we could find to get these cars started BUT WE HAVE NOT HAD ANY LUCK!!! what are we doing wrong??? we did flood out both engines, took plugs out blew off extra fuel, and dumped out fuel from exhaust. also cleaned out extra fuel in air filter. tried turning glow plug out a turn or two. We opened thot. a lit' heated the motor with blow dryer. we are not happy people! CAN WE GET SOME HELP BEFORE WE SEND THESE THINGS BACK!!!!

If someone would be so kind as to go overr the step by step proceedures in getting started maybe we missed something?

If you have seen the HPI book that comes with the RTR cars you would know that they are no help to the beginner! Can you tell im angry? lol!
thanks for your help!

[dkj-M3]

sounds like it is too rich to start. or the plug may be fouled, which will need a new plug. try leaning the bottom & top needles 2hrs. Not 2 full turns but like moving from 12 to 2 on a clock. then try & start it. & always remeber the factory settings for a good starting point.

[dkj-M3]

Understanding Your Engine
The first and foremost consideration when attempting to tune your glow engine is understanding the basic parts and their functions. By understanding the fundamentals, you can better tune your engine for maximum performance while at the same time, expanding the life of your engine.
Carburetor
The carburetor is the mechanism that mixes fuel and air in very specific proportions and passes it on to the engine through the vacuum intake. The natural operation of the engines causes of flow of gases to pass through the engine (through the carburetor) and out the exhaust manifold and on to the pipe or muffler. The exact mechanism for this is unimportant for the scope of this tutorial, however it is important to realize that air and fuel pass into the engine by this vacuum method. Depending on how you adjust your carburetor, you can either adjust how much of this gas/air mixture reaches the engine and to what proportion of gas to air passes on to the engine. By reducing the amount of fuel per volume of air, you are making the mixture "lean" and by increasing the amount of fuel, you are making the mixture "rich".

The two types of carburetors are slide and barrel. The old-style barrel carburetors still dominate the market because of their simplicity in design and because of the tendency for designers to hang on to legacy design. These have been around since the beginning of glow-fuel planes. They control gas/air flow by rotating a barrel with a hole cut in either side that allows varying amounts of gas/air mixture to flow through the carburetor as the hole opening enlarges to the venturi (air shaft down the center of the carb body).

Idle-Speed Adjustment
This is the most basic and easy to understand part of tuning your carburetor. This spring-tensioned screw limits the closure of the barrel aperture. Although this doesn't affect the mixture of the fuel it does affect the idle speed. The more closed the aperture is, the slower the idle, the larger the aperture, the faster. As you close this aperture up and the idle speed decreases, you will eventually (sooner than later) stall the engine out. In order for the engine to run, it must have enough inertial energy built up in the engine and flywheel to carry it through the entire ignition cycle. Generally speaking, you want to adjust this down to the slowest idle, just before it begins to stall.

Low-End Mixture Adjustment
This adjusts the fuel mixture at or near idle. Some engines lack this low-end mixture valve for reasons of simplicity, however this makes accurate tuning difficult.

For barrel carbs, this mixture valve is generally found where the throttle-arm pivots. Some are countersunk, others are clearly visible from the outside. On slide carbs, they are generally found on the opposite side of the carb from the throttle slide shaft (has an accordion billow type rubber boot over it) next to, but below the fuel-inlet and high-end mixture valve.

High-End Mixture Adjustment
Also known as the Main Needle adjustment, this is the primary fuel mixture adjustment. This is generally found on the top end of the engine, typically next to where the fuel line goes into the engine. Some are flat-head screws like the low-end mixture, others are hand adjustable valves.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tuning Basics

It's important to understand that there is a reputation for glow-engines to be difficult to tune. This is a common error in thinking. With a little bit of know-how, tuning a glow engine can really be a simple, pain-free process. People that don't properly understand the basics can easily become frustrated by what should be a simple, straightforward process. Here's how you do it:

Dialing it In
For the purpose of this tutorial we are going to make some basic assumptions. First, we're going to assume that the rest of your car or truck is properly functioning and that you have everything ready to go. Second, we're going to assume that you are able to start your engine and that it at least runs for a second or so.

The first place to start with dialing in your engine is to make sure that you have your idle-speed properly adjusted. Your engine manual should give you specific instructions on setting the aperture gap to the minimum size. It's important that we get this resolved before continuing on. If your engine can't get enough air/gas flow then it won't start/run. A clockwise rotation opens the aperture and increases the idle RPMs, a counterclockwise slows it down.

Second, you should tune the low-end mixture valve. This is done before the high-end (main needle) adjustment because an improperly adjusted low-end can affect the high-end performance. Like most mixture valves, clockwise rotation will "lean" the mixture and a counterclockwise will "richen" the mixture.

To determine whether the low-end mixture requires tuning, allow the engine to warm up completely, and then allow it to idle, uninterrupted for one full minute. If the engine continues to run after the minute is up then your low-end mixture is correct and you're ready for the high-end adjustment. If it dies on you then there are two possibilities; either you are running too rich or too lean. To determine which is the case you must listen for how the engine dies in its idle test.

If the engine's RPM's rev up at the last second and then the engine dies than you are running too lean. To correct this, turn the low-end mixture screw counterclockwise (out) 1/8 of a turn (always make adjustments in 1/8 turn) and retry the idle test.

If, on the other hand, it begins to wind down and you notice a change in how the exhaust sounds in the last few seconds, then your engine is running too rich. To correct this, turn the low-end mixture screw clockwise (in) 1/8 of a turn and then retry the idle test.

Once you have passed the idle test and are able to idle for one full minute (after first warming the engine up, of course) you are ready to continue on. You may have to repeat the above process a few times until it is properly set. Remember, only adjust the screw 1/8 of a turn. It's far too easy to go too far with the adjustment. Setting changes don't always take effect immediately. You may have to run your engine for a few minutes for the full effect to take place.

Now that you have dialed in your low end, any carb mixture problems can be isolated to the high-end (main) mixture adjustment.

Acceleration is the tell-tale sign of how to tune your high end. If you hit the throttle and it takes off suddenly but then suddenly dies or loses power then you have your main mixture set too lean. Try backing (counterclockwise) the main mixture needle out 1/8 of a turn and retry. If it bogs immediately when you hit the throttle (sounds like it's choking), then it's most likely running too rich. Try leaning the mixture out by screwing the main mixture valve in (clockwise) 1/8 of a turn.

The more accurate way of really dialing in the top-end is to take the engine's temperature. A properly tuned engine should run between 210° and 220° Fahrenheit. This can only really be ascertained by using and infra-red thermometer such as the type used by automotive mechanics. On-board or direct-transfer types that measure the heat from the head are inaccurate because, assuming the head is properly dissipating heat, it would reflect a lower than accurate temperature as a majority of the heat energy would be dissipated from the exposed surface of the head. By "looking" at the temperature near the core (actually, area immediately surrounding the glow plug) the temperature can be more accurately read.

The cheap but easy alternative would be to drop a bead of water down the head on the glow-plug and see whether it boils off. If it slowly simmers than it probably is running right around 212°. If it boils to quickly then it's probably too lean and needs to be richened. If it just sits there and doesn't boil at all, then its running too rich and needs to be leaned out.

An engine that is running too lean will run hotter and exceed the 220° degree limit. This can significantly reduce the life of your engine. Although it may be tempting to run your engine as lean as possible (does give a short-lived performance boost), this should only be done if you are very wealthy and like swapping engines out every race. There is no quicker way to kill and engine, honest. This is simply because as you lean the engine out, it gets less fuel to the engine, and more importantly, less lubricant. Since glow fuel is the only means of lubrication for your engine, the lack of it means certain death to your powerplant.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A few final do's and don'ts...

Give your adjustments time to take affect. Remember that most adjustments won't be immediately noticeable. You need to drive your engine through it's full range for at least a minute. Make sure you make adjustments in 1/8 turn adjustments only!
Always run on the rich side. It's far better to take a slight performance hit than to turn your engine into a paper weight. Running too lean may give you a temporary thrill, but it's short lived. Your engine must get the proper amount of lubrication at all times.
Changes in temperature affect your tuning! Whenever the outside temperature changes you will most likely need to re-adjust your engine. Warmer temperatures require a leaner setting where colder temperatures require a richer setting.


I hope that this info gets you on the right track. If all fails, it's always a good idea to get expert advice from the vets down at your local track. However, be aware of the guy that's too eager to give you advice on how to get that extra performance boost out of your engine. Unless he or she plans on buying your next engine, I would be weary of any such advice. Good luck!

[azizhousecallz]

Understanding Your Engine
The first and foremost consideration when attempting to tune your glow engine is understanding the basic parts and their functions. By understanding the fundamentals, you can better tune your engine for maximum performance while at the same time, expanding the life of your engine.
Carburetor
The carburetor is the mechanism that mixes fuel and air in very specific proportions and passes it on to the engine through the vacuum intake. The natural operation of the engines causes of flow of gases to pass through the engine (through the carburetor) and out the exhaust manifold and on to the pipe or muffler. The exact mechanism for this is unimportant for the scope of this tutorial, however it is important to realize that air and fuel pass into the engine by this vacuum method. Depending on how you adjust your carburetor, you can either adjust how much of this gas/air mixture reaches the engine and to what proportion of gas to air passes on to the engine. By reducing the amount of fuel per volume of air, you are making the mixture "lean" and by increasing the amount of fuel, you are making the mixture "rich".

The two types of carburetors are slide and barrel. The old-style barrel carburetors still dominate the market because of their simplicity in design and because of the tendency for designers to hang on to legacy design. These have been around since the beginning of glow-fuel planes. They control gas/air flow by rotating a barrel with a hole cut in either side that allows varying amounts of gas/air mixture to flow through the carburetor as the hole opening enlarges to the venturi (air shaft down the center of the carb body).

Idle-Speed Adjustment
This is the most basic and easy to understand part of tuning your carburetor. This spring-tensioned screw limits the closure of the barrel aperture. Although this doesn't affect the mixture of the fuel it does affect the idle speed. The more closed the aperture is, the slower the idle, the larger the aperture, the faster. As you close this aperture up and the idle speed decreases, you will eventually (sooner than later) stall the engine out. In order for the engine to run, it must have enough inertial energy built up in the engine and flywheel to carry it through the entire ignition cycle. Generally speaking, you want to adjust this down to the slowest idle, just before it begins to stall.

Low-End Mixture Adjustment
This adjusts the fuel mixture at or near idle. Some engines lack this low-end mixture valve for reasons of simplicity, however this makes accurate tuning difficult.

For barrel carbs, this mixture valve is generally found where the throttle-arm pivots. Some are countersunk, others are clearly visible from the outside. On slide carbs, they are generally found on the opposite side of the carb from the throttle slide shaft (has an accordion billow type rubber boot over it) next to, but below the fuel-inlet and high-end mixture valve.

High-End Mixture Adjustment
Also known as the Main Needle adjustment, this is the primary fuel mixture adjustment. This is generally found on the top end of the engine, typically next to where the fuel line goes into the engine. Some are flat-head screws like the low-end mixture, others are hand adjustable valves.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tuning Basics

It's important to understand that there is a reputation for glow-engines to be difficult to tune. This is a common error in thinking. With a little bit of know-how, tuning a glow engine can really be a simple, pain-free process. People that don't properly understand the basics can easily become frustrated by what should be a simple, straightforward process. Here's how you do it:

Dialing it In
For the purpose of this tutorial we are going to make some basic assumptions. First, we're going to assume that the rest of your car or truck is properly functioning and that you have everything ready to go. Second, we're going to assume that you are able to start your engine and that it at least runs for a second or so.

The first place to start with dialing in your engine is to make sure that you have your idle-speed properly adjusted. Your engine manual should give you specific instructions on setting the aperture gap to the minimum size. It's important that we get this resolved before continuing on. If your engine can't get enough air/gas flow then it won't start/run. A clockwise rotation opens the aperture and increases the idle RPMs, a counterclockwise slows it down.

Second, you should tune the low-end mixture valve. This is done before the high-end (main needle) adjustment because an improperly adjusted low-end can affect the high-end performance. Like most mixture valves, clockwise rotation will "lean" the mixture and a counterclockwise will "richen" the mixture.

To determine whether the low-end mixture requires tuning, allow the engine to warm up completely, and then allow it to idle, uninterrupted for one full minute. If the engine continues to run after the minute is up then your low-end mixture is correct and you're ready for the high-end adjustment. If it dies on you then there are two possibilities; either you are running too rich or too lean. To determine which is the case you must listen for how the engine dies in its idle test.

If the engine's RPM's rev up at the last second and then the engine dies than you are running too lean. To correct this, turn the low-end mixture screw counterclockwise (out) 1/8 of a turn (always make adjustments in 1/8 turn) and retry the idle test.

If, on the other hand, it begins to wind down and you notice a change in how the exhaust sounds in the last few seconds, then your engine is running too rich. To correct this, turn the low-end mixture screw clockwise (in) 1/8 of a turn and then retry the idle test.

Once you have passed the idle test and are able to idle for one full minute (after first warming the engine up, of course) you are ready to continue on. You may have to repeat the above process a few times until it is properly set. Remember, only adjust the screw 1/8 of a turn. It's far too easy to go too far with the adjustment. Setting changes don't always take effect immediately. You may have to run your engine for a few minutes for the full effect to take place.

Now that you have dialed in your low end, any carb mixture problems can be isolated to the high-end (main) mixture adjustment.

Acceleration is the tell-tale sign of how to tune your high end. If you hit the throttle and it takes off suddenly but then suddenly dies or loses power then you have your main mixture set too lean. Try backing (counterclockwise) the main mixture needle out 1/8 of a turn and retry. If it bogs immediately when you hit the throttle (sounds like it's choking), then it's most likely running too rich. Try leaning the mixture out by screwing the main mixture valve in (clockwise) 1/8 of a turn.

The more accurate way of really dialing in the top-end is to take the engine's temperature. A properly tuned engine should run between 210° and 220° Fahrenheit. This can only really be ascertained by using and infra-red thermometer such as the type used by automotive mechanics. On-board or direct-transfer types that measure the heat from the head are inaccurate because, assuming the head is properly dissipating heat, it would reflect a lower than accurate temperature as a majority of the heat energy would be dissipated from the exposed surface of the head. By "looking" at the temperature near the core (actually, area immediately surrounding the glow plug) the temperature can be more accurately read.

The cheap but easy alternative would be to drop a bead of water down the head on the glow-plug and see whether it boils off. If it slowly simmers than it probably is running right around 212°. If it boils to quickly then it's probably too lean and needs to be richened. If it just sits there and doesn't boil at all, then its running too rich and needs to be leaned out.

An engine that is running too lean will run hotter and exceed the 220° degree limit. This can significantly reduce the life of your engine. Although it may be tempting to run your engine as lean as possible (does give a short-lived performance boost), this should only be done if you are very wealthy and like swapping engines out every race. There is no quicker way to kill and engine, honest. This is simply because as you lean the engine out, it gets less fuel to the engine, and more importantly, less lubricant. Since glow fuel is the only means of lubrication for your engine, the lack of it means certain death to your powerplant.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A few final do's and don'ts...

Give your adjustments time to take affect. Remember that most adjustments won't be immediately noticeable. You need to drive your engine through it's full range for at least a minute. Make sure you make adjustments in 1/8 turn adjustments only!
Always run on the rich side. It's far better to take a slight performance hit than to turn your engine into a paper weight. Running too lean may give you a temporary thrill, but it's short lived. Your engine must get the proper amount of lubrication at all times.
Changes in temperature affect your tuning! Whenever the outside temperature changes you will most likely need to re-adjust your engine. Warmer temperatures require a leaner setting where colder temperatures require a richer setting.


I hope that this info gets you on the right track. If all fails, it's always a good idea to get expert advice from the vets down at your local track. However, be aware of the guy that's too eager to give you advice on how to get that extra performance boost out of your engine. Unless he or she plans on buying your next engine, I would be weary of any such advice. Good luck!



Thanks will try! the manual told us not to change the settings of those needles until we finish breaking in the engine, but like i said they won't start!
thanks if it works will let you know!

[dkj-M3]

there are a million & one ways to break in an engine, but all you are really doing is heat cycling the piston & sleeve. it helps to have a temp gun. i usally get my engines up to about 220* shut it off & let it cool to room temp. after every run, make sure the piston is at BDC(botton dead center) you don't want it to cool with the piston at the tightest part of the sleeve , which is the top. then repeat for about 6 more times. after that, put it on the track & run through the different ranges of throttle. DO NOT hold it wide open for more than, NOT EVEN 1 second if you are on the straight but just blip the throttle down the straight. If you don't have a track to run on just run in a figure 8 for like half a tank & let it cool & put the piston at BDC.

[dkj-M3]

or like this:

The Bess method of breakin (also called the Heat Cycle Method) From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning.

[Lagwagon]

Added a few things to my car....

[Lagwagon]

I just bought myself a Novarossi LS15 PS2 for my Super Nitro! Can't wait for it to arrive! rcmacrt sells them for about $225! Not too bad!

[F150RTR]

.........

[Lagwagon]

looks like it's dead in here....

[67f100StPro]

Whats up I just got a used RS4 2 from eBay. It was in pretty rough shape but I have took it all apart and rebuilt it. It has a OS 12cv-x with the stock muffler and single speed. This thing is fast for it's size and it really doesn't handle too well. I need some tips setting the suspension up as this is my first touring car. I have red springs up front and white springs in back with 30 wt oil and .5 deg camber in rear and 1 deg in front. It seems to be real twitchy and will spin out pretty easy. Are these camber settings ok and what should the toe-in be? Also I have spacers on the shocks to preload the springs. Should I take these off? Thanx for any help.

[azizhousecallz]

I have the RTR RS4 3 evo and for awhile now its been hard to set the idle and it would run for about a tank and then over heat. I would have to wait a few minutes before i could run it again. Well now after checking every where for an air leak and using some gasket seal and after a good cleaning i tried to fire it up with no luck . this is what it does: after pumping the hell out of the fuel pump (its like its just not getting gas) it will turn over but it will only burn the gas that gets to the engine. It will run just for a second ( you know how it runs when its burning that last drop of fuel) Thats what im getting everytime. Then i have to pump it again. Could this be a sign of bad or no vaccum, could it be a problem with the fuel tank because the fuel is not traveling, or could it still be an air leak? Anyone else have this problem? Can you help me figure this out? :(

[Lagwagon]

azizhousecalls, check your fuel line for small puncture holes....and check the fuel tank for cracks and make sure that the tank cover seals properly....what engine do you have installed?

[jerseyevo]

Whats up I just got a used RS4 2 from eBay. It was in pretty rough shape but I have took it all apart and rebuilt it. It has a OS 12cv-x with the stock muffler and single speed. This thing is fast for it's size and it really doesn't handle too well. I need some tips setting the suspension up as this is my first touring car. I have red springs up front and white springs in back with 30 wt oil and .5 deg camber in rear and 1 deg in front. It seems to be real twitchy and will spin out pretty easy. Are these camber settings ok and what should the toe-in be? Also I have spacers on the shocks to preload the springs. Should I take these off? Thanx for any help.
this is my setup for all 5 of my evo's and ss's.
100k diff lube in the front and 30k in the rear.
1.5 degree front camber,0 toe-in.
rear toe-in not adjustable(or change hub carriers)rear camber 1 degree.
shock springs are ok.
shock oil 40 weight front and 50 rear.(threaded shocks highly recomended).
hpi v-groove tires.
dump the swaybars if u use them.

[craig-uk]

just bought a new hpi rs4 3,anyone got any tips??, are all those bits in the bags spares?? and i noticed ill have to buy some turn buckles

[jerseyevo]

yes they are spares.
better turnbuckles is a must if you like hitting curbs and most important get a failsafe.

[craig-uk]

what excactly do those failsafes do?? and do the turn buckles alter camber ect ??

[Hockeekidd98]

Yes turnbuckles adjustcamber,
Failsafes apply full brake if you go out of antenna reach, something glitches, some one tries to use your frequency,and when your batteries go low.
They're worth the money, you can pick one up for 20.

[craig-uk]

yea they sound worth th it, ive had a few problems with my car today, tried starting it for the first time to break it in & the rotostart wouldnt turn, it was like something was jammed in it, anyway i took it to pieces and it was the cover on the gearing for the rotostart was too shallow & when i tightend it up it woudnt turn so i had to slacken it off and put some thread lock on the nuts. has anybody else had this?????

[jerseyevo]

the first thing i did was get rid of the rotostart and install a recoil starter.
if you wish to keep and use it make sure you loosen the glowplug to releive some compression when trying to start with it otherwise it could hydrolock and destroy the oneway bearing in the engine backplate,just make sure you tighten the plug when u get it running.

[craig-uk]

thanx for that tip, can i just use a starter box and leave the rotostart gearing on the back of the engine???

[craig-uk]

and do the cogs actually move once the engine is running?

[jerseyevo]

you can use a box and no the gogs will not spin while running.

[craig-uk]

thanx alot 4 that its been a big help

[craig-uk]

just taken off the rotostart and got a starter box so should be up and running soon hopefully!!!

[craig-uk]

just got back from breaking the car in and removed the throttle servo arms so i could remove the radio tray to clean the car and know when i brake it shuts the throttle off even more and stalls the car,???? help???

[Wolfgang]

only means your mechanical idle stop was never set up in the first place -
somewhere - not knowing which engine you run - on the crank case
close to the air intake is a screw [sometimes spring loaded ] -
looking down the venture light pressure on the throttle ball connector
to close position - adjust the idle set screw till there is
about a 1 mm gap - Basic set up -
attache linkages making sure in brake position spring does
not Bottom out - run the engine let it warm up -
set idle only with IDLE SET screw - not on the radio -
enjoy

[craig-uk]

took it to the track today and stuffed it into the frigging wall!!! snapped my uprights and hub and lost my drive shaft!!!

[Deznuts05]

wow tough day... I had the same expreience that you are having... hard to turn over... and then once I got her running I went to a tri-oval raceway and bam straight into a wall... not too bad I was able to fix her it was fun getting to know my car...

[craig-uk]

yea didnt cost to much to fix and while i was doing it i fitted some turnbuckles and a failsafe

[muscleflex]

I have the RTR RS4 3 evo and for awhile now its been hard to set the idle and it would run for about a tank and then over heat. I would have to wait a few minutes before i could run it again. Well now after checking every where for an air leak and using some gasket seal and after a good cleaning i tried to fire it up with no luck . this is what it does: after pumping the hell out of the fuel pump (its like its just not getting gas) it will turn over but it will only burn the gas that gets to the engine. It will run just for a second ( you know how it runs when its burning that last drop of fuel) Thats what im getting everytime. Then i have to pump it again. Could this be a sign of bad or no vaccum, could it be a problem with the fuel tank because the fuel is not traveling, or could it still be an air leak? Anyone else have this problem? Can you help me figure this out? :(

i AM actually getting this same problem! i fiddled with it last night...and the only way it would continue running was if i kept pumping fuel in by pressing on the primer!!! there's just no vacuum at all and i've changed the fuel lines! i know there should be a vacuum and the fuel should get sucked in when i use the roto-start because it's what happens with my heli when i start it! the fuel just gets sucked into the engine!
can anyone please help?!!!

[ic0nn]

muscleflex & azizhousecallz:

provided you've checked for airleaks already, check the following:

1. clogged fuel filters: dont forget to check the internal one in the fuel tank itself. these can get clogged as well.

2. clogged carb: sounds silly, but something may be clogging the carb. my advice is to rebuild it if your engine has seen some good mileage.

3. worn piston/sleeve: could also cause the trouble you're having. you can check compression by adding a very small amount of afterrun into combustion chamber and cycling the piston once. you should hear no airleaks if the piston and sleeve is still good.

in all honesty if you've checked everything else then most likely your problem is #3. g'luck and hope this helps.

[wl6]

Hi Y'all, I just got a Nitro RS4, and having a blast with it. I bought another RS4, a roller with carbon fiber upgrades, and a 2 speed tranny. Waiting for bearings to come in to fire it up and try out this 2 speed. i will post some pics when its back together.

Is there an easy way to align and cut the holes for a new body? I only want to do it once.lol.

Thanks...Bill

[lostinspace]

Anyone know whether the Super Nitro RS4 is likely to ever change over to shaft drive ?
I want to get a larger than 1/10scale (superten size) shaft drive that can be converted into a Street Racer with full aluminum parts...Kyosho no longer make a superten and the HPI's a belt drive (don't like these)...

[PCC]

Get the SNR, put the two-speed from the NRS4-3 into it, maybe change to the new, taller NRS4-3 diff gears, put some slicks on it and you should be good to go. The only problem with this setup is that the front of the chassis has kick-up.

[lostinspace]

Get the SNR, put the two-speed from the NRS4-3 into it, maybe change to the new, taller NRS4-3 diff gears, put some slicks on it and you should be good to go.
The problem is - it will still be a belt drive wont it?

[PCC]

Nope. The SNR is based on the NMT which is shaft-drive.

Building the car I described above will result in a HPI clone of the Kyosho FW-04.

[lostinspace]

The SNR you refer to - I'm taking this as the Super Nitro RS which is belt drive - i guess you're referring to some other car? :confused:
What's the NMT?

[dynamite25]

The car pcc is talking of is this car which is a HPI super nitro rally

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v284/dynamite25/snr-chassistop.jpg

and the car your thinking of is a HPI super nitro RS4 which i think will never become shaftdrive for some reason or other but i wish hpi made a chassis for the SNR so you can fit the bumper from the super nitro RS4


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v284/dynamite25/snchas1.jpg

[lostinspace]

Thanks for that Dynamite.

But are there alloy parts freely available for this that can make it into a true street racer with lots of eye candy?

[PCC]

Dude, check out www.hpiracing.com to see the different HPI models.

Yes, there are lots of aluminum parts for the NMT/SNR. The SNR is nothing more than a NMT with shorter suspension arms, smaller wheels/tires (same size as the SNRS4, the car you thought I was talking about), and different shock towers. HPI makes their own line of hop-ups and you can get Powerline parts as well as others. You can even get titanium parts for these cars.

[lostinspace]

PCC,
This could be what i'm looking for - but like dynamite says, the front end sucks big time for a street racer. I can see that front end breaking frequently unless a foam bumper is somehow made to fit.

[dynamite25]

Fit a foam bumper to which car the super nitro rally or the super nitro RS4

[lostinspace]

To the SNR

[dynamite25]

just making sure which one it was, i'm tying to make a bracket to fit the front of the SNR and then i can fit the bumper to the bracket. if it works i'll post a pic on here.

[mikex1021]

hi i was wondering if anyone knows if a team infinity katana .12 5 port motor is good and would it fit into a racer 2

[racer034life]

Hey does any one still race there hpi nitro racer2 and if so can you ran foam tires on that car. cause i am looking for a nitro car that easy easy to set-up and start off with and i really dont want a new kit

[PCC]

PCC,
This could be what i'm looking for - but like dynamite says, the front end sucks big time for a street racer. I can see that front end breaking frequently unless a foam bumper is somehow made to fit.
If I was building a car like this I would make a custom chassis out of 4mm thick 7075 T6 aluminum and I would make the front end have no kick-up. I would also make the front end take a blade bumper from the Impact or something.

[PCC]

Hey does any one still race there hpi nitro racer2 and if so can you ran foam tires on that car. cause i am looking for a nitro car that easy easy to set-up and start off with and i really dont want a new kit
What engine do you plan on running? Do you plan on running a two-speed?

I have found that the two-speed combined with a powerful engine (over 1HP) means broken two-speed shafts. I was snapping them so regularly with a stock 12CVR that I gave up on HPI nitro cars. The worst was when I was snapping them within a half tank. Yes, I was running the HPI hop-up side brace, which usually helps prevent the two-speed shaft from breaking.

[racer034life]

What engine do you plan on running? Do you plan on running a two-speed?

I have found that the two-speed combined with a powerful engine (over 1HP) means broken two-speed shafts. I was snapping them so regularly with a stock 12CVR that I gave up on HPI nitro cars. The worst was when I was snapping them within a half tank. Yes, I was running the HPI hop-up side brace, which usually helps prevent the two-speed shaft from breaking.

I was going to use a NOVAROSSI motor non-pull start. I will be ranning the RS4 racer2 with some parts from japan I found on hpi japans website that they still sell. So i hope i dont have that problem. Also can you run foam on a nitro racer2 i will post pic of the track later

[mikex1021]

i have both sets of tires both work well depending on the type of road and conditions

[mikex1021]

so if i put a team infinity motor that has 1.6 hp you think that that will break the shaft

[PCC]

I'll just put it this way: A .12 CVR makes about 1HP. With this engine I was snapping the two-speed shaft like toothpicks. The two-speed shafts are 5mm outside diameter (OD) with 2mm holes drilled into them so you only have a little bit of steel in there to transfer the power to the rear wheels. The V-One R that I switched to has a 6mm shaft so it has a lot more metal there to deal with the torque. The HPI uses the finger-style two-speed which shifts harsher than the two-shoe type used on the V-One R. The combination of the finger-style two-speed and the thinner shaft was causing it to break. I've run ported 5-port X12s in my V-One R and have only managed to wear out a few universal drive shafts and drive belts.

[Mustang2]

i am lookin for some tires for my SN...not slicks but tires with actual a actual tread pattern..doe anyone know where i can get some at??? and does that chassis that hpi has called the super chassis for the SN make alot of difference...also is there a Ferrari 360 Modena body for the SN...

[ic0nn]

we ran an O.S. .18 CV-R in the SNRS4 with two-speed setup without much problems. my friend did strip out the first spur gear but he didnt have a problem running the two speed with a high powered motor. we're actually more worried about dogbones and outdrives wearing than the main and lay shafts being bent or broken.

threaded tires? kyosho low profiles are threaded. you can still pick some up at towerhobbies.

[ragamuffin]

I still have an RS4 w/the old Racer 2 conversion, and a Super Nitro both in mothballs. Do people even club race these things anymore?

[Saboteur]

Hardly. :)

[kartrun]

I beg to differ. :rolleyes: We've got several at our local track and one of those has been known to lay the smack down frequently on the TC3's, etc. In the right hands it's still a very competitive car and much better in my opinion than the latest offering from HPI.

[Saboteur]

It can handle at the lot, but it cant bring it on at the worlds though? ;) I convinced someone to sell his RS4 racer for an R40. Now he'll be running along side me with his OS .12TR 5 port and THS pipe. I'm going to invest in that OS .12TZ though once it comes out.

[3phase]

I got some pictures here (http://www.russty.net/album/index.php?cat=3) . I got a rs4 but i dont know how sick it is. :cool:

[kruzindoubledub]

hey,
I am just getting back into rc, I found my old Nitro RS4 which I bought a few years ago and have taken it all apart and gotten it ready and drove it around today. The old thing still ran like a champ after the full teardown. Anyway, I want to get a bigger motor and was wondering what you guys suggest. I want atleast a .15 or maybe .18 but dont want to spend more than $100. I have been looking at the O.S., OFNA, and the HPI. I can afford some of the HPI's if I do the engine exchange. I would really appreciate any help and am excited about gettin this thing hopped up real nice. Oh yeah, I also plan on going to a 2 speed.
thanks

[Saboteur]

OS .18cvrx. Most power .18 and available for $90-$100. A good 1.6HP and 35k+rpm. Not a bad deal. Invest in some upgrades from HPI and/or Wolfpack racing and you'd be set.

[crxman91]

I just put the os .18 in my RS4 3 with a 2 speed and it is insane, it just spins the tires at high speeds, i just ordered a new set of of slicks for it hoping for more traction.

[kruzindoubledub]

sounds good, thats what i was plannin on ordering. What are gonna be the essential upgrades so it doesnt just tear the stock parts up?

[vdubnut]

What's up guys, I'm new to the Nitro scene... so new that my car is arriving today in the mail. Thanks to Saboteur for directing me here... sounds like a nice board so far.

[Saboteur]

You'll like it here. :) Be sure to check out the other SN forum which most of the SN guys reply to. :cool: http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?p=1707780#post1707780

[illrooster]

hey guys what u think of a noavrossi 5 ports turbo on a rs4 2 two speed good enough ???????

or how about my nova .21 on a super nitro with single speed doing over 9
0mph just wondering i have four hpi's two rs4 2 and two super nitros. with novarossi and rb engines turbo

[Saboteur]

How upgraded are the cars? They'll need quite a bit of parts to make it handle the power of those engines. Be more specific as to what Novarossi and RB engine is on there. :) If you want to go 90mph on the Super Nitro, but stay single gear and find the tallest gearing possible.

[resonantfreq]

Hi everyone, just traded my RC10GT for a Racer2 the other day. It has a brand new OS15CVX in it so I just got done breaking it in. Anyway,my question is, what weight diff lube are you guys using? Should I go thicker in the front or the back?

Thanks!

[PCC]

Thicker in the front. The NRS4s are typically tail happy. The Racer2 went with softer rear springs and stiffer front springs to try to counter this tendency and it wasn't enough. I used to run 50,000 weight in the front and 10,000 weight in the rear and the handling was still a little tail happy.

[illrooster]

How upgraded are the cars? They'll need quite a bit of parts to make it handle the power of those engines. Be more specific as to what Novarossi and RB engine is on there. :) If you want to go 90mph on the Super Nitro, but stay single gear and find the tallest gearing possible.
well they are in the stock as of now just finished the brake in of the engines . they seem to handle the power ok so far . we'll see how long they last. one of the super is using a mega zx 21 engine single speed and it does about 70 mph at 180. :D . next weekend i will lean it out :eek: .
the rs4 2 have the 5 ports turbo navarossi engine and the other rs4 2 has the rb 7 ports turbo. with taller pinion gears it does about 65mph. i'm hoping the novarossi does 70mph. the other super has big block .15 novarossi. soon it will have a 5ports ms turbo .15 on it single speed on it also. :)
will let u know how it runs next sunday. have fun.

[Saboteur]

Don't you mean RB 5 port turbo? They don't sell 7 ports for .12s, but only 8th buggy engines and circuit .21. Unless you got it modified. I ran my HPI already for several times and it's awesome!

[illrooster]

Don't you mean RB 5 port turbo? They don't sell 7 ports for .12s, but only 8th buggy engines and circuit .21. Unless you got it modified. I ran my HPI already for several times and it's awesome!

well your right is the 5 ports :mad: . the 7 ports is the other .21 that i have in my serpent. :D

[Saboteur]

Hehe, thought so. The RBs are great. I'll probably get one for my stadium truck. Right now I'm using an MT12 in my sedan.

[resonantfreq]

Hi guys, quick question: I have a Racer2 and when I floor it, it makes a kinda squealing sound. It accelerates fine so it I don't think anything is slipping...It kinda sounds like a slipper clutch or a ball-diff slipping but I don't have either... If I accelerate slowly, I don't get the sound and if I hit the gas with the wheels off the ground, it doesn't make the noise either.

Any ideas?

Thanks...

[RCRevolution]

Nitro RS4
.12 CV-RX
two-speed
tuned pipe
lots of other goodies
top speed 55mph

http://img211.exs.cx/img211/1530/picture0051uq.th.jpg (http://img211.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img211&image=picture0051uq.jpg)


http://img211.exs.cx/img211/3633/picture0022ar.th.jpg (http://img211.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img211&image=picture0022ar.jpg)

[illrooster]

Hi guys, quick question: I have a Racer2 and when I floor it, it makes a kinda squealing sound. It accelerates fine so it I don't think anything is slipping...It kinda sounds like a slipper clutch or a ball-diff slipping but I don't have either... If I accelerate slowly, I don't get the sound and if I hit the gas with the wheels off the ground, it doesn't make the noise either.

Any ideas?

Thanks...
weel check the front and rear differentials for loosesness. i just had super nitro do the same noise nad it was the rear diff that came loose.

[illrooster]

Hi guys, quick question: I have a Racer2 and when I floor it, it makes a kinda squealing sound. It accelerates fine so it I don't think anything is slipping...It kinda sounds like a slipper clutch or a ball-diff slipping but I don't have either... If I accelerate slowly, I don't get the sound and if I hit the gas with the wheels off the ground, it doesn't make the noise either.

Any ideas?

Thanks...
well check the front and rear differentials for loosesness. i just had super nitro do the same noise nad it was the rear diff that came loose.

[resonantfreq]

Hi guys, just tried to make a new post but didn't read the guidelines first so this might show up twice. Anyway, I just got a Racer 2 used and was wondering which chassis this was based on, the RS4 or RS4 2. Or, if it even makes a difference. I want to get some hopups but all the hop ups are made for the normal RS4s.

Thanks!

[Saboteur]

Eh, the only post I saw like this was posted yrs ago. It sure isn't worthtrying to find, because you might not. The Racer2 is the upgraded version of the RS4-2. It's good for parkinglot racing, but not intended for high level competition. Even with more aftermarket parts it's not really race worthy. You can browse around for upgrades to make the car support the power of todays engines, which are very strong.

[resonantfreq]

i don't want to make it win any races. I broke a bunch of stuff on the weekend so i thought i might as well, replace them with stronger stuff since i'm buying new parts anyway...

[Bublicus]

My nitro racer 2 seems to whip out it's tail alot and do a 180, expecially at hight speed, it's very hard to make large swooping turns at hight speed. Any help?

[azizhousecallz]

anyone ever exchange the T15 from the RTR rs4 3 evo? they dont have the engine listed and i can't get an answer from hpi tech or email?
I have worn this engine out being my first nitro car and im ready to put a new motor in this car. any help please! :(

[illrooster]

:o well guys my rs4's are all done. two super and two racers :) . the fastes running 90+ :eek: and the slowes running 65 mph. :D . i been trying to get the pictures loaded but somehow is not doing it. :mad: , i just do drag racing with them. no tracks around here to drive them. only off road tracks :(
so far i beat the 4-tecs 2.5, and a .21 traxxas 4-tec also. :D
no serpent or mugen has crossed yet. we'll see how it goes with them :)

[Saboteur]

Email me your images or IM me them, and I can post em for ya.

[bripps]

Well, I just made a extended chassis, and decided to put in my hyper .21 8 port. Seems to haul a little ***. So I put my school bus body on it!

[illrooster]

hello guys :o , is been three weeks since i finished my hpi projects. and it seems like i went too far :eek: , so now i have them for sale. one being a super nitro almost new , the other a racer2 that has been used with some mods.
anyone interested let me know and will tell u the exact details.
one of the reason im selling them is because they can't handle all the power :( from my engines and the little rocks just keep breaking them too often. :mad:
the super nitro could not handle the power of the .21 mega engine and destroyed the rear pulley :mad: , drive belt and diff and the heavy duty mugen clutch pads. so i installed the engine on my serpent vector where it belongs. ;)
im keepping one of the racers to play around . but i will buy a rs4 3 with shafts and see what they do with all the power from a novarossi engines on them. :) :D

[Saboteur]

The RTR 3 can't hold upto the power of todays engines without big upgrades. Better of buying the R40, which is a MUCH better car than all the other older HPI sedans out of the box and all around. I'm running a Rody V12 in my R40 and it's sick. I have videos of it puttin around on the sidewalk.

[illrooster]

hummmmm... well then i think i will get a serpent 710. or mugen mtx3. not too sure about the r40. i can get either one for about $150.00- $200.00.
decisions, decisions.....

[Saboteur]

How can you get either one for that price, but not the R40? Are those used?

[illrooster]

yes they are used but not too much. i can also get the r40 for about $250.00 with a novarossi engine . but im not too thrilled with it.

[Saboteur]

I would go with the Mugen or R40. Serpents pretty good too though. What Nova is the R40 coming with?

[T-MAXX4000]

what size hub does a Nitro RS4 have

[zmaster007]

Hi guys,

I've got a NRS4 2 which is pretty stock apart from a two speed gearbox. I'm looking to upgrade the asthmatic .15fe with and O.S. MAX .15 CV-X. I've got a couple of questions:

1. Is the upgrade a good idea?
2. How easy is it to install?
3. I assume this has a slide carb, if so how do I set up the linkage?

Cheers

[PCC]

The 15 CV-X does not make that much more power than the 15FE and will last about as long because of the ABN construction. Get something a little better like the Fantom or something equivalent.

The 15CV-X, if you get the standard shaft rotary carb, will drop right in. An equivalent Fantom will drop right in, too. If you get a slide carb then you will need to check HPI's FAQ section for how it goes together.

[zmaster007]

so what other engines can just "drop in" and give me a noticable increase in power?

[zuluman13]

i have a .15 o.s. cv-rx that would be a nice upgrade for sale i ran about 3 tanks through it just starting the break in process