XXX-S Forum v1.0

[Dj Kumara]

So that's about $130 New Zealand dollars!

[AssociatedRacer]

does the XXXS come with a body? and if so which one?(o ya tires and wheels too)

[minime]

Yes it comes with a dodge stratus boddy (looks more like a road going sedan then a race car in my opinion), and Y spoke wheels and treaded tyres (I don't think I would use the tyres for racing personally).

[AssociatedRacer]

is it that bubbly one on teh box? i think it looks nasty...

[minime]

yeah same as pic on box.

[racer13]

Hi, i'm going to be getting a xxx-s for christmas *yes i plan ahead to know every thing possible about the cars im getting* i will also be buying a losi graphite conversion. i will also get a p2k pro motor. and i have some 2400 battery packs ill use. I was looking of what kind of ESC i was going to get. i want the lrp quantum comp. because of it's very small size and high proformance. i was going to also put a big blue cap on it. I will be using a Xr2 remote *yeah.. only one i have* and a r133 receiver. i'm not sure what servo ill use. prolly a high speed mg bb servo. Any idea's??? on the xxx-s that is. i will NOT be racing. just messing around at the local track and on my street... i might race some times.. maybe in a year. lmk your opinions! :) This will be my first sedan also.

[AssociatedRacer]

Sounds like a great setup...cept Losi will probably come out with a mat francis/david spachet type kit by then so u might as well just get that.

[racer13]

Ok... sounds good, thanx for the advice. ill wait

[AssociatedRacer]

i think losi said about august, just around my b-day=)

[racer13]

how much for it? and what does it "include"

[AssociatedRacer]

the normal stuff, graphite chassis and compenets, threaded shock bodies, ti turnbuckles, some other goodies, and, as always, eye candy....

for how much have no idea

[racer13]

well ill only have about 300 or so. and i dont want to spend that much on just the kit!

[LouisB]

How many XXX-S racers are using the underdrive/overdrive set-up and on what type of track?
I have my XXX-S underdriven and it seems to help keep the back end in shape on medium/high grip tracks. I haven't tried it overdriven yet so can anybody give me some info on their experinces with it?
One other thing that I noticed was that there seemed to be accelerated tire wear at the rear when it is underdriven, has this happened to anyone else?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

are losi gonna make a XXX s rally?

[phoenixR34]

What is all this Underdriven/Overdriven stuff? I just got my Losi and I have a problem with the car being *extremely* loose on corner exit under power. I can brake while turning, enter corners fine, but as soon as I give it power exiting a corner this thing gets totally sideways and it's really hard to control.. any ideas?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by phoenixR34
What is all this Underdriven/Overdriven stuff? I just got my Losi and I have a problem with the car being *extremely* loose on corner exit under power. I can brake while turning, enter corners fine, but as soon as I give it power exiting a corner this thing gets totally sideways and it's really hard to control.. any ideas?

Overdrive/Underdrive would be using the 3'rd diff gear in the front or rear of the car. The 3'rd diff gear that came with the kit is slightly larger than the other two, so that changes the ratio for wherever in the car you put it.

I run without overdrive, and I have not used it.

[LouisB]

TSR6 the 3rd pulley is 41 tooth and the standard ones are 42 so it's 1 tooth smaller.
What is all this Underdriven/Overdriven stuff? I just got my Losi and I have a problem with the car being *extremely* loose on corner exit under power. I can brake while turning, enter corners fine, but as soon as I give it power exiting a corner this thing gets totally sideways and it's really hard to control.. any ideas?
I had a similar problem on some tracks when I got my XXX-S, make sure that you have the right tires (if other people can keep their cars on rails then it should be possible for you to do it to). I found it useful to experiment with the tuning tips in the back. Some other people at my club tried the underdrive setup (smaller pulley in the back so that the rear wheels turn faster) this helps to make the car smooth and less twitchy.
The underdrive setup really worked for me because it seems to want to make the back end snap in and helps prevent spin-outs, it just seems to stick to low grip tracks better. I'll tell you my current setup that seems towork on tight parking lot tracks.
Front-shocks blue springs, 4degree blocks, 70wt oil the rest is the same (camber/shock mounting positions etc) I also find that the thinnest swaybar helps to smooth the car out and increase stability.
Back- underdriven (smally pulley), orange springs, 70wt oil.
I have been fiddling with shock/camber links but with no luck as yet. If you are lacking rear end grip go for the softer springs (yellow/orange/white) and I also found that by shortening the wheelbase in the rear more weight is put on the rear wheels giving more grip (& battery pack back)

[TSR6]

Originally posted by LouisB
TSR6 the 3rd pulley is 41 tooth and the standard ones are 42 so it's 1 tooth smaller.

i must get more sleep.

I must have been thinking backwards.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

can you convert the XXX-S to a rally?
that would be too wicked

[AssociatedRacer]

People converted them into Buggies....

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

o.. it would be cool if anyone knew how to convert one into a rally

[minime]

You should just be able to run the car a little bit higher and with rally tyres.

The drive train is enclosed so dirt and stones shouldn't be that much of a problem.

You could also put some sort or thin plastic sheet under the chassis if your worried about getting dirt in the motor or batteries (motor might run warmer though.

Should need to change much else.

Tony

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

maybe rally weapon suspension arms? would they fit?

[phoenixR34]

I have been running the standard Futaba 3003 servo in my XXX-S and the other day it broke (right before a qualifying heat at that). The only thing I had was a Futaba S148 from literally 10 years ago when I used it in my RC10lso. I put it in the XXX-S anyways and it works, but I want something better. The steering response sucks, the servo never goes back to center and there is all kinds of slop coming from the front-end, part of it is the servo. I would prefer to go to another Futaba (since I have the Futaba Receiver), but if there's something that's better for a better/equal price that's fine. I would like to spend around 50 bucks, give or take. The "fast guys" say it helps with a really good servo, but finding the most expensive servo out there isn't really needed. Anyone have any suggestions?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

well... the hi-tec ones are cheap and has really good specs...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXUZ88&P=7

but if you want the futaba quility, this servo is awesome.. super quick...0.10sec for 6V
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXH305&P=7

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

O and any word on possibility of rally XXX-S?

[TSR6]

If you are looking for a budget Servo, then i suggest the HS-605BB. I have three of these servo's ( steering, throttle for nitro, and a spare steering for my x-s ) and i have never had problems with them.

I currently have a HS-5925 in my XXX-S

-Troy

[minime]

I use the Hitec HS-925MG in my xxxs and it works very nicely..

Tony

[AssociatedRacer]

Hitec 625. Its around 50 bux, has a 2 year warranty against breakage.

Troy, i think the 625 and 645 replaced the 605, 615 series...

The 625 is also high speed(not that high though, so its easy to contorl)

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

so what are you XXX-Sers up to?
post some pics!

[TSR6]

Originally posted by TEAMLOSIRACER
Hitec 625. Its around 50 bux, has a 2 year warranty against breakage.

Troy, i think the 625 and 645 replaced the 605, 615 series...

The 625 is also high speed(not that high though, so its easy to contorl)

They still make the 605BB to the best of my knowledge. :confused:

NMT - You want pics? You got 'em.

http://www.shearracing.com/tsr6/xxxs/losi6.jpg http://www.shearracing.com/tsr6/xxxs/losi8.jpg

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

OMG!
nice paint job... one of the best stratus i 've seen!!
now with the body off? hehe

[tarvymoto]

TSR6 , Looks VERY nice. I recognize those templates..hehe.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by tarvymoto
TSR6 , Looks VERY nice. I recognize those templates..hehe.

haha, Yeah, I love them. I've used them twice ( the side ones ). The one on the nose, I don't know where i got those. I've done flames on the nose 4 times now, and have used something different each time.

Unfortunately, i was only brave enough to create my own once. ;)

Chassis shots eh??? I only have one "good" one, I may try and take a new one tommorow for you.

but untill then, here is a shot from sometime...probably a year ago. Since this it's been outfitted with Graphite, and several other little changes. ;) http://www.shearracing.com/tsr6/xxxs/losichassis1.jpg

-Troy

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

cool!
nice heat sink. do hpi bodies align with XXXS? i know the body post are wider but i was wondering if the wheel wells line up. I really want/like this car!:D

[fast-rc]

what are some pros and cons about the xxx-s cause I'm new to on road? Im planning on getting a xxx-s or a tc3. But I like the xxx-s better but does it have the speed, handling, and durablility as tc3s?

[tarvymoto]

Fast RC , to answer the second part of your post: yes, yes, and yes.

You can't go wrong with either car so just get the one that you like best.

[fast-rc]

thx,
I will probably get this car.

Where can I buy the carbon fiber chassis or the whole graphite conversion?

[phoenixR34]

Well since there hasn't been a whole lot of traffic lately, I figured I'd post my XXX-S setup that I ran last weekend.. maybe someone will benefit from it, or maybe I can get some tips to make it better. If anyone has run on a similar type surface, I'd like to hear your setup.

Track: Asphalt, *very* slick. The sugar water dried early and left the surface pretty comparable to an ice rink.

Temp: 90-100 degrees, 10% humidity. Night time.

-----------------------------------

Springs - silver all the way around
Shocks Oil - Associated 50wt
Piston - 56 all the way around
Still running original shocks (non threaded)

Droop - 2mm front, 4mm rear
Diffs - Front tighter than rear
Toe - 1mm out in front, zero in rear
Camber - Don't know, tires wore even.
Ride Height - 5mm front and rear
Battery Placement - Forward
Arm Spacing - Middle

Tires - Sorex 32R
Inserts - HPI Green

Pulley - Standard(not overdrive/underdrive)
Motor - Trinity P2K 2 Pro, 86/25 - 3.44 ratio
Batteries - 2400
Body - Protoform Civic

-------------------------------------

That's about it really. The car was really hooked up - it was almost perfectly neutral. A few others who had Losi's were down to 35wt and Pink Springs in all four corners, but I was fine with the Silvers all around. Our track has been pretty slick the last few weeks and most people are either hooked up totally, or not even close. I cleaned my tires with electric motor cleaner before each run and that made them really sticky for the first few laps, it really helped on the start when the tires were still cold. I spent a while trying to help my friend get his TC3 hooked up and man is that thing twitchy and hard to drive in comparison.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
cool!
nice heat sink. do hpi bodies align with XXXS? i know the body post are wider but i was wondering if the wheel wells line up. I really want/like this car!:D
hehehe help?

[tarvymoto]

NMT boy , the HPI body wheel wells are close enough. I have several HPI bodies for my XXXS. The HPI pre marked body holes will not line up but other than that go for it!!!

[Losiracer]

sorry bout no poists for awhile just ben away. but a comment on one of my eariler post is that, diesel757 the short shocks are for the front and back. look on this page and tell me where is says for front only. http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/xxxs_shocks.htm

i have these (2 sets) and since the front and back shock lenths are the same they fit perfectly.
Peace.

[GearGuy2002]

Alright I have raced 3 times with my XXXS and the bumper is getting crappy now (I am new to on road). Have any of you had to replace your bumper? I figured i could make a better one and my dad had some stiffer foam laying around and I cut it and made it much better. Have you ever made a custom bumper and did it work better than the EXPENSIVE replacments. I mean come on there is 25 cents worth or material and Losi charges 5 dollars. what a rip off in my opinion. O and is there a way to repair the front of the car body mine is kinda tearing when i crash duck tape??? packaging tape???? what do you use

[tarvymoto]

Gear Guy . You can use some Shoegoo and maybe some fiberglass mesh or window screen to try to repair your body. Practice getiing around the track w/ out hitting the boards so much too;)

[TSR6]

GearGuy - You need to s l o w d o w n ;)

As i mentioned before, you should have never raced me, but slowed down, and followed me through. When you started racing with me, I backed off and waited till the loop to pass you, and you were still over driving.

I want you to remember, that slower can be MUCH faster.

-Troy

[GearGuy2002]

I put a lower gear in (21 or 20) forget at the moment so it will be slower but more accel. Yes troy for the 50th+ time I remember. What are the threaded shocks are they better or what??? and were they included with the kits back in december?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by GearGuy2002
I put a lower gear in (21 or 20) forget at the moment so it will be slower but more accel. Yes troy for the 50th+ time I remember. What are the threaded shocks are they better or what??? and were they included with the kits back in december?

You should probably keep the gearing you had. You don't nessisarily want to slow down your car by gearing, but by your finger on the trigger. ;)

Threaded shocks make it easier to adjust ride height.

They are not stock parts on any current XXX-S kit.

-Troy

[Losiracer]

gear boy on your eariler question on fixing thhat bodie try some decals they work and are pretty strong
Peace.

[GearGuy2002]

Hey troy don't go psyhco on me it was my dads Idea. J/K! well anyways i picked up some shoe goo and Fiberglass cloth. so i can repair my body. The tape with the thin CA on it didn't work (it was a pit tip or something a while ago)

[TSR6]

Originally posted by GearGuy2002
Hey troy don't go psyhco on me it was my dads Idea. J/K! well anyways i picked up some shoe goo and Fiberglass cloth. so i can repair my body. The tape with the thin CA on it didn't work (it was a pit tip or something a while ago)

CA + Lexan = Major Brittle-ness. :)

Shoe Goo is heavy, don't get carried away with it. :)

-Troy

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

where can i find XXX-S for the cheapest price? i can only find $220

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

o and look at this thing i made! hehe
it's gonna be my decal for my NMT, Micro and hopely a XXXS
(i hope i don't offend anyone in anyway)

[TSR6]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
o and look at this thing i made! hehe
it's gonna be my decal for my NMT, Micro and hopely a XXXS
(i hope i don't offend anyone in anyway)

can you blow that image up? ... i may consider using that on my next body... maybe. ;)

I need an image approx hood size if you can. ;)

-Troy
TSR6@RCTech.net

[Dj Kumara]

Does anyone know if Team Losi/any company is going to make a offroad conversion kit for the xxx-s?

[Losiracer]

the xxx-4 is supossedly based off the xxx-s, kinda like the street weapon and xx-4. but no one really knows for sure. since there is no data on teamlosi.com. but i sure hope it is since i think it would be sweet.
Peace

[tarvymoto]

Well Team Losi just Placed 2nd , 4th . and 5th with the XXX4 at the Worlds in South Africa and Kinwald just won the Nationals with it to. To me it would make sence for Losi to produce it in kit version. The buzz about this car has brought more attension to 4wd than the class has seen in a while. I've herd rumors that we may see a kit around the first of the year but ya never know.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

this is as clear as i can go...

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

guys! can you only buy XXXS at the price of 219 or higher?
i am trying to find who has them the sheapest but i can only come up wih 219

[Losiracer]

bout as cheep was they come my friend.
Peace

[phoenixR34]

Here is an XXX-S for $102 bucks

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1745546374

And a barely used one for $76.00

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1745526760

And another barely used for $56.00

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1745924377

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

since the used are cheaper i might get it used from ebay but i wanted to build my own... :(:)

[phoenixR34]

Well the first listing for $102 is brand new.. I think it's partially built however, but never used.

[flomofo]

im almost done building my racing ft tc3 out of used parts (the tc3 included) and i saw a xxs run the other day and considered buying it but i dont see any advantage with it in the design (i look at the design instead of how many championships its won) since both of the cars have pros and cons that make them almost equal although the tc3 will ultimately have a bigger aftermarket
so im wondering if any of you guys could tell me things about i might have passed up so i can come to a conclusion.

[phoenixR34]

are you an engineer or something? I think you'd have to drive both of them. I mentioned in one of my earlier posts about how I drove my friend's TC3 a few weeks ago and didn't like it very much. last Friday I had some more time with his car (since it was handling like crap, he let me try and set it up) and I still couldn't get it nearly as dialed as my Losi.

Things I like a lot about the Losi are the easy-access diffs, not only removal/installation, but how easy they are to adjust. The Spur gear is easy to change as well and the steering system in the Losi IMO is much easier to work on. I tried servicing the TC3 steering system and man is that thing a pain in comparison. I don't know if it's safe to say that either car is "better", but Losi sure made it easy to swap parts, make adjustments and service the critical parts of the car; this really helps because we only have +-30mins between each run session at my local track (one of them). I have driven the Losi three weekends in a row and the TC3 three weekends in a row and my Losi is a lot more dialed, that's for sure.

What really puts it into perspective for now at least, is that we (my friend and I) both ran HPI cars and were consistently within a few seconds of each other after every race. Now with my Losi and I am running two-laps more per race than I was with my HPI, while my friend is a little better, but hasn't picked up the pace as much, yet.

[flomofo]

ya ive been hearing they are pretty simple easy to work on cars , more and more it seems like the losi would be a better beginners car into racing i got the tc3 first before the xxs because i thought it would require more learning but thought it was going to be more responsive to tuning as my skills improved i wanted the xxs because it could serve as a good weekly racer and i could save my tc3 for big events

thx again for the reply

[fast-rc]

Do you guys have problems with the belts breakin and stuff. Cause like everyone says that belt really sucks. I want a on road car for bout 200 so it either the xxx-s or the tc3.

Also how often do you have to change the belts?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by fast-rc
Do you guys have problems with the belts breakin and stuff. Cause like everyone says that belt really sucks. I want a on road car for bout 200 so it either the xxx-s or the tc3.

Also how often do you have to change the belts?

I have never heard of a XXX-S belt breaking ...ever.

I have been running the same belt for a year, no problems, no plans on changing it any time soon.

-Troy

[tarvymoto]

No belt problems here either!

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

hey guys! i am thinking of buying plastics of XXXS to get me started... what parts do you need if you had everything in the graphite kit, but only in plastic?
please list the part numbers and maybe extimated street price... THANX ALOT!!!
:D :D :D

[tarvymoto]

NMT Rcaer Boy..don't do it! Did you buy a parts lot = to the graphite kit(only in plastic)? You will need ALOT of parts....CVD's , bellcrank , bearings , spur and belt set-up..ect...ect...ect. You may as well buy the kit so that you have everything+instructions. Did I missunderstand your Q?

[TSR6]

If you are planning to piece together a car from individual parts slowly, its not a good idea. It WILL cost more, i garentee it.

If you need spare parts, i would suggest just buying the graphite kit. For $79.95 ( KTHobbies.com ) you really can't beat it. A spare Stiffezel main chassis is $28, where the graphite chassis is $40. The diff covers are $10, Sus arms are $10, battery hold down is about $7, carriers, ect. are about $7 a pop.

That all adds up way past $80. If i remember right, it ended up being about $115 to buy all the graphite, and not the kit. I may be wrong... going off memory.

-Troy

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

welli think i might get used plastic graphite kit (lol) for around 35... if i can finish the car with about extra 100 dollors, that would be great... do you think i can finish the car for around 100 dollors?

i think i need motor clamps mortor plate, belt, spur, pair of aluminum CVDs, 2 ball differentials, pair of shiny CVDs and Ti turnbuckles set, ti balls, HD ball cups, screw kit, bell cranks? ball bearing set ...whoa.... the list is longer then i expected after i wrote it up...
what do you guys think it will all cost?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
welli think i might get used plastic graphite kit (lol) for around 35... if i can finish the car with about extra 100 dollors, that would be great... do you think i can finish the car for around 100 dollors?

i think i need motor clamps mortor plate, belt, spur, pair of aluminum CVDs, 2 ball differentials, pair of shiny CVDs and Ti turnbuckles set, ti balls, HD ball cups, screw kit, bell cranks? ball bearing set ...whoa.... the list is longer then i expected after i wrote it up...
what do you guys think it will all cost?

AL CVD kit = $32
RegCVDkit= $28
all the stuff to build to ball diff's would probably be near $20.
screw kit = $28 (?) i think..
Bearings = I don't even want to know.

..so what do you think is easier.. buy that kit you were talking about for spare parts, and a brand new kit to get all the internals.... ;)

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

the guy just sold it to another dude... :(
o well
i think i am not gonna get a XXXS anymore. I am gonna save up for a X12 and a starter box instead.

[racer13]

i might be getting a xxx-s for my xxx ke... is there any thing i might need to know about running these cars? i think ill throw either a novak c2 or a tempest pro II in it.. stock motor.. 2400 batt's, and some other things. how good do these cars run? how fast would i go? whats the best gearing for it? my lhs has a medium sized onroad track.. very smooth. a lot of turns, but 1 big straight.

[racer13]

Ok.. im getting it this week, i know NOTHING about onroad cars.. so i really dont know how to set up these cars.. any help would be awesome! :)

[TSR6]

racer - see what the other guys are running for gearing.

I like the p2k2 motor personally.

www.teamlosi.com click the side "setup sheets" then click "xxx-s" and print out Paul L's carpet setup for indoor, and Ron Rossetti's for outdoor parking lot if you run outdoor too.

They are good starting points.

-Troy

[racer13]

im getting 2 pairs of double purple foam tires.. i guess ill use those when i go racing w/ my brother on the carpet track.. then it is comming w/ 6 pairs of proline onroad tires.. so yeah

[spenzalii]

Let's see...

Go with the Cyclone or a Quantum Pro. Either will work well.

The hot stock motor seems to be the P2K2. The MVP works pretty well, too. Recommended pinion os 26 tooth (48 pitch). Grab a 25 too just in case. The car is amazingly simple to build and set up out of the box, so you won't be dissapointed. The only upgraded I would recommend off the top are bearings in the steering bellcranks and the threaded shocks. The belt hasn't broken or skipped thanks to the well thought out and protected drivetrain, and it will launch hard and straight. You'll love it.

[racer13]

well... i'll be putting a novak c2 in it, and i dont have a receiver for it yet :( but i will probably put either a novak xxl receiver in it, or the stock Jr one. so i guess i'll have to start selling things! :D

[fast-rc]

Yea i just bought this http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1747382848. What else should i get and what kind of mods should i do next?

What esc works good in this car? (hot mod and stock motors)

[LouisB]

I find the Quantum Competition is the best with all types of motor, but the Novak TC2 is also good.
Are you going to use it for racing? If you are then there are plenty of mods, graphite chassis, threaded shocks, graphite conversion kit etc

[GearGuy2002]

Has anyone ever tried to make there own custom bumper and if so how did it turn out i finished mine i used a little bit stiffer foam and it covers ALOT MORE space i would post a pick but i don't have a digi cam :( :( . I might take a picture and do the Kodak CD thing.:) :)

-Jarrett

[TSR6]

e-mail me, to remind me... I can bring a DigiCam to the track tommorow..

-Troy

[racer13]

Hi, i'm getting an xxx-s next week.. I will probably want to race, etc.. so, i'm going to buy the graphite kit, lunsford titanium turnbuckles/ hinge pins, and the threaded shocks.. i was thinking the next step would be to buy the aluminum battery strap to take heat off the batteries.. and some other nice eye candy's for it. is there any other things i could have for proformance?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by racer13
Hi, i'm getting an xxx-s next week.. I will probably want to race, etc.. so, i'm going to buy the graphite kit, lunsford titanium turnbuckles/ hinge pins, and the threaded shocks.. i was thinking the next step would be to buy the aluminum battery strap to take heat off the batteries.. and some other nice eye candy's for it. is there any other things i could have for proformance?

I personally would not go for the AL battery strap.

I think the Lundsford stuff, The threaded shocks, and Graphite should be fine. Thats basiclly what i run on my XXX-S.

You might want to consider buying the .28 shock shafts for the front of the car though.

-Troy

[fast-rc]

I heard bearing upgrades for your bell cranks are a good thing to have. Cause i got this xxx-s off ebay it comes with graphite kit and short threaded shocks and dont know wat esle to get.

[racer13]

well i like having nice stuff.. i have a xxxnt that im making full graphite, i have a xxxt mfe which comes all graphite etc, i used to have a xxx ke.. and now im getting this. the first hopup i will probably get is the graphite kit, then the shortended threaded shocks.. then bearings all threw out it? probably.. well, after im done with all that i will probably get the matt francis red aluminum steering peices, motor mount, front/rear knuckles, cvd's all the way around, etc.. i wont exactly be "racing" but more like a "play on the track and show off" :p i probably will not bash this car at all... ( well just a tiny! )

[TSR6]

Yes, bearings for the steering are a good idea. They remove some slop that may develop after a couple weeks of use.

Most of the Red Aluminum parts are eye candy.

-Troy

[AssociatedRacer]

Why dont that many people race XXXS for stock(maybe just at socal), seems like not to many people have them...

[spenzalii]

Dunno on that. I see a lot of XXXSs on the Mod circut, and they kick butt, whereas the TC3 runs things on the stock circut.

Not much is really 'needed' on the XXX-S, with the exception to the threaded shocks. I would also invest in the gear adaptor (to use standard spur gears) and the motor mount heat sink. Besides the bearings in the bellcranks, all else is eye candy. Unless, of course, you rebuild the car with the graphite kit.

[GearGuy2002]

TeamLosiRacer- It must just be So Cal cause I race a stock xxxs and so does Troy and Troy correct me if I am wrong but last race (Sunday the 14th) there where 21 racers in Rockford (Team Barber Racing) and I think only one signed up to race mod but there wasn't enough people to race a mod class. Keep in mind though that not all 21 racers had the XXXS. O and what Motor Spray would you people recomend? O and by stock do you mean no graphite or no mod motors? cause if you mean stock no graphite and stuff than The only one would probally be just me LOL

[GearGuy2002]

Well this weekend was the first weekend I used my cutom bumper it saved me alot of trouble. The race before I broke 4 carriers, Lost the hinge pin connecting the carrier and the a-arm, and thing between the carrier that steers the wheel (the name slips my mind at the moment). This race i didn't break anything. YAHOO! I forgot to have troy take a pic but i will have one soon.

[TSR6]

The XXX-S is pretty popular around here...

GG - the thing that slipped your mind.. is it a steering turnbuckle?

-Troy

[AssociatedRacer]

just to let you know, my backround is now troy's xxxs...Do you have updated pics? or can i see more?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by TEAMLOSIRACER
just to let you know, my backround is now troy's xxxs...Do you have updated pics? or can i see more?

Thats awesome. :)

I really don't have any new pictures. I can try and take some later this week. I'm not sure if it is time to mount up the new Stratus or not.

The Trinity Stratus got beat up a little bit.. Still good, but it's showing age. ;)

-Troy

[GearGuy2002]

DING DING DING we have a winner

Troy come on down!

You answered correctly, now Ashley so him what he's won

We have for you a can of ton nails, some belly button lint and a peice of paper that I found in the street on my way to work, But wait there's I three night stay at the Local homeless shelter and a ticket entitling you to a free shower there.

:D :D :D :D :D

-Jarrett

[AssociatedRacer]

I got a question, what is traction roll, and body roll?

Also, what effect do sway bars have on if you put them on the rear, front, and both...


Thnx...

[Bigmoo89]

how come when i use the lowered roll center holes in the front i have absolutely no droop?... ive taken the droop screws all the way out and its bending the the bump stops on the bumper and it is also riding extremely low to the ground.... is this how its supposed to be or am i doing something wrong?

[AssociatedRacer]

this might sound really dumb, but what is a roll center holl?

[TSR6]

BigMoo - You did change to the low roll center hinge pin blocks right??

Also, If you did do the Mod, you will need to dremel the chassis a little bit. Did you do that?

[AssociatedRacer]

Whats Traction Roll, Body Roll, and Torque Steer?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by TEAMLOSIRACER
Whats Traction Roll, Body Roll, and Torque Steer?

Traction Roll: The car has so much traction, that when you take a hard corner the car litterely flips.

Body Roll: Normal car roll though the corner.

Torque Steer: What the TC3 has, it likes to go to one side on hard accell.

[AssociatedRacer]

Thnx, i always was wondering what those were

[Bigmoo89]

yeah i did use the lowered blocks but i didnt know you had to dremel the chassis... i think im just gonna stick with the normal roll center anyways ... but could you show me where you need to cut the chassis like in a picture or something... any help would be apreciated thanx guys

[TSR6]

I don't have any pictures, but ill explain best i can.

On the bumper piece, font, you need to cut off the nub on the droop screw holes to it is flush with the rest of the bumper. X-acto knife will work here.

You also need to cut the droop screws just a little bit

You also need to dremel the little flange off the main chassis where the rear part of the front suspension arm comes down.

In the rear, basicly just cut the droop screws, and remove the nub off the droop holes.


It's best to put it together, see where everything hits, and take a dremel to it.

[racer13]

hi guys.. im getting my xxx-s this week ( gonna be awesome!!! ) cant wait.. I'm just wondering.. is there any tracks near Lake Tahoe, California?? cause im going down there for 10 days in augest. :D

[TSR6]

Originally posted by racer13
hi guys.. im getting my xxx-s this week ( gonna be awesome!!! ) cant wait.. I'm just wondering.. is there any tracks near Lake Tahoe, California?? cause im going down there for 10 days in augest. :D

Try asking in the "Regional" forums.

-Troy

[AssociatedRacer]

do setups change for stock and mod? i mean does stock use a different setup then mod...

[AssociatedRacer]

do i need to pic anything else other then ti buckles and maybe a graphite chassis and compenents...

[AssociatedRacer]

o ya, also, what cvds does the xxxs come with? It looks like the lightweight aluminum ones in the pics ive seen..

[TSR6]

I would suggest getting threaded shocks before you worry about graphite.

The short ( .28 ) shocks in the front are nice to have too.

The stock CVD's are steel.

-Troy

[AssociatedRacer]

hmmm....ill go see what brian kinwald is running saturday*hopefully will have my car by then*...do people run the short shocks on high bite asphault(socal r/c raceway)

[TSR6]

I run the short shocks everywhere.

If you do the low roll center mod though, you need to run the .28 shafts in the .36 bodies to acchive less than 4 droop

-Troy

[AssociatedRacer]

why are threaded shock bodies so important?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by TEAMLOSIRACER
why are threaded shock bodies so important?

much...much easier to adjust compared to the stock collars.

Much more precise too..

-Troy

[AssociatedRacer]

how much do they run? and do i need to get the short shock stuff...??

[TSR6]

Originally posted by TEAMLOSIRACER
how much do they run? and do i need to get the short shock stuff...??

I think the set costs around $30, im not sure. It's been a while since i bought mine.

-Troy

[AssociatedRacer]

I can't sleep, getting my XXXS tommorow...WOOOOHOOOOOO!!!!!!

[racer13]

i SHOULD get mine tommorrow! but it maybe be saturday/sunday... whoohoo!!!!

[TSR6]

Awesome!

[Bigmoo89]

hey thanx man.. i did those mods for the low roll center and now it works beautifully, and does it handle better wow!... i have a godo setup for a medium-high bite asphalt track if anyone needs help with a setup

[TSR6]

no prob. I love the low roll center too. :)

-Troy

[fast-rc]

What stock/mod motor do you guys run in your xxx-s. Also what kind of esc do you use?

[TSR6]

stock motors: p2k ( might be time to retire them ), p2k2, and GM3.

ESC - Novak TC2. I also have a quantum, but cannot get it to work. I'll be shipping that back to AE.

-Troy

[LouisB]

Troy- is it that the buttons on your Quantum don't work? I found that mine were very particular as to where you pressed them so setting it up can take some time, but once it's set up it works fine.
Do you have the worlds kit?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by LouisB
Troy- is it that the buttons on your Quantum don't work? I found that mine were very particular as to where you pressed them so setting it up can take some time, but once it's set up it works fine.
Do you have the worlds kit?

naw, the buttons work fine. Funny enough, the steering is the only thing that does not work :confused:

I have re-programed it so many times, it's not funny. The throttle and brake work just fine though. :confused:

I do have the worlds kit.

-Troy

[LouisB]

I am going to get the worlds kit because the last time I raced my buggy it got quite hot. Do you think I would get 5 mins out of a pack of 2400s with an 11x3 and stock gearing with the large cap installed (in my XXX-S)?
I think your problem is a bit bigger than mine, I don't alter set-ups very much (unless it's raining)

[TSR6]

I honestly can't help you there. I do not race mod, nor do i have a buggy to compare run times to. :(

-Troy

[Dj Kumara]

Motor q's. I'll be getting my xxxs in a week or two and was wondering if it comes with a pinion or not. Also what pinions do you use with the trinity stock motors and what about mabuchi motor pinions? Is a Tamiya speed tuned motor a good motor for any racing class?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks

[LouisB]

Thanks anyway Troy, I'll start with the small cap and see how many seconds I have left. I won't need loads of punch because the tracks I race on are low grip:)

Dj Kumara: The XXX-S doesn't come with a pinion, it tells you the starting points for pinions in the manual and I have found them to be accurate for mod racing. I don't race stock but the manual says to use a 26 tooth pinion, ask TSR6 if this is about right:)

[GearGuy2002]

Well I have a P2k2 Pro in mine with a novak tc2 and I use a 23. you get more punch than what the book says (26). 26 would be for more striaght tracks with not to many turns. Seems like alot to me though. O and i got some pics of my car finnally no body on cause when i took them didn't have it painted.

Losi XXXS with JR XR2, JR Z250 (?) (whatever is stock with the JR radio), JR am recevier, Novak TC2, Trinity P2K2 Pro, Reedy 3000 nimh WC cells

[TSR6]

The manual is a bit off for stock racing, at least for most tracks.

Depending on where you run with a p2k2, i would start out with a 23 tooth pinion, and I would also buy a 22, and a 24 to have in the toolbox.

If you convert to 64 pitch, with a p2k2, i have been running 31 / 128.

and on to Motors, get a p2k2. I have had the best luck with the p2k and p2k2's. The p2k2 will give you some more RPM compared to a p2k. The Tamiya motor is not a good choice for racing, as it is a sealed endbell, and probably doesnt have the power of a good trinity stock motor.

-Troy

[AssociatedRacer]

What does the low roll center mod do, and when would u need it?

I race at Socal, so i guess its considered a high/medium bite asphalt track...

[spenzalii]

I've noticed that most people usually run the pinion +1 or +2 from the book recommendations. Is anyone else noticing this? If so, with the 88 stock spur, what would anyone recommend for my 19T Chameleon Pro (currnetly runing 23t) and 12x2 P94 (running around 20 to 21)?

[AssociatedRacer]

hey, are the short shocks good for everything? I plan on upgrading to threaded all the way around, is it a good idea for an asphalt track(socal). Thnx...

[phoenixR34]

With 86 Spur..

P2K2 Pro: 22-24 pinion, depending on track. On a tight course I'll go down to 22 to get good punch out of corners. On a track with sweepers etc, I'll go to 24. Right now I am at 23 because there are longer straights between corners and the last corner before the longest straight, I can usually hold 3/4 or so throttle.

Chameleon: 19-21 depending on track. I usually end up with a 20 pinion.

With 3000 batteries I have had no problems with run-time or the batteries dying off.. I've been able to run the same lap times in the last 30 seconds as I have in the first 30, not to mention we run 5minute races at my track.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by TEAMLOSIRACER
hey, are the short shocks good for everything? I plan on upgrading to threaded all the way around, is it a good idea for an asphalt track(socal). Thnx...

yeah, short shocks good.

Put the short shocks in the front only.

-Troy

[AssociatedRacer]

ahh...Novak gt7? or tc2...what to choose....:confused:

[Dj Kumara]

Does anyone know the part number for the xxxs ballbearings needed for the steering somewhere?
I need to know for when I order my xxxs :D

[LouisB]

I don't think Losi has a specific bearing upgrade for the XXX-S steering. They do have A-6907 which are 2 bearings of the right size (you will need 4). Any 5mm x 8mm bearings will work, I got mine from my LHS:) (it is, as far as i know, the only metric part on the XXX-S, that's why my LHS stocks them)

[TSR6]

Honestly im not sure on the GT7 V.S. Cyclone at this point. Yes, it is definately smaller than the Cyclone, and i personally prefer the new solder tabs, but it also has slight ( .0001ohms ) more resistance, and the wieght is not listed anywhere i look.

The Cyclone is still a good speed control, nad the GT7 is not listed to be availible untill Aug.

As for the bearings, i just bought some cheap duratrax 5x8 bearings.

-Troy

[AssociatedRacer]

man, I cant wait, my XXXS should be comming in about 2 days via mail....Full graphite and ti buckles and hingepins...

[TSR6]

Originally posted by TEAMLOSIRACER
man, I cant wait, my XXXS should be comming in about 2 days via mail....Full graphite and ti buckles and hingepins...

Awesome!

I have tires on thier way... should be here any day. :(

[AssociatedRacer]

what do i need to upgrade to go to threaded, just bodies in the back, and complete shocks in the front?

[spenzalii]

That's about it. The shock kits come with everuthing you need. Bump up to 50wt oil while you're at it

[AssociatedRacer]

is that bumber brace helpful?

man, i hope those shocks dont cost that much=(

[TSR6]

The bumper brace is nice, but it's not nessisary. It just holds down the foam bumper for when you hit stuff, and adds a little beef to the body posts. :D

[phoenixR34]

"man, i hope those shocks dont cost that much=("

Everytime I've looked at my local LHS, they've been around 27-30 bucks for the front complete set. I imagine you could find them online for less. You can buy just the bodies for the rears, which cost a lot less.

IMO, I would wait on the threaded shocks. I don't know the skill level of everyone in the forum that suggests the threaded shocks, but the local guys who are very very good (A-main at the Reedy Race) say the threaded shocks help, but it's not something you have to have unless you're looking for that extra hundreth of a second during a 4min race. I have never run the threaded shocks before, but I have been pretty consistently at the top of my A-Main every week and the main reason I'm not winning is because my driving isn't perfect all the time. The main problem with the stock fronts is the height.. it's tricky getting the ride height correct because the shocks aren't short enough. It is pretty easy to modify the stock fronts to get the front-end as low as you want.. I'd try that first, then go up to the threaded once everything else is perfect.

[AssociatedRacer]

the car is fully hopped up though, comes with full graphite, ti buckles, and ti hingepins...So is that considered perfect? Or anything else needed more?

[TSR6]

The threaded shocks really don't add too much performace wise. They help you get settings more exact, yes.. but you can do the same with the un-threaded shocks, it just takes a heckuva-lot longer.

With the threaded shocks, you just twist a little bit at a time, re-check ride, ect.

-Troy

[LouisB]

Are the threaded shocks worth it? I only do club races and seem to be going fine with the standard shocks, are there other things that I should spend my money on that would make a bigger difference to performance than threaded shocks?

[GearGuy2002]

Well I think you were talking to Troy but I might be able to give you some things that definatly helped me. I would recomend getting some Boca Ball Bearing for you diff. I felt a differance. I don't know if you already switched to better bearing but thats my 2 cents.

-Jarrett

[AssociatedRacer]

what about for steering? are ball bearings important?

[TSR6]

GG - what bearings did you replace??

Louis - The biggest advantage to threaded shocks, is that it is much easier to adjust the threaded collars, than it is to loosen the stock collars, and slide them up or down. It is much more precise, and easier to adjust. I personally will never go back to the stock unthreaded shocks, but they still work fine if you have the pacience.

Losi - The ball bearings in the steering remove a small amount of slop that will slowly develop in the stock steering bushings. Not completely nessisary, but again, it's nice to have them.

-Troy

[Gutter Ball]

I am finally joining the XXX-S club! Mine came yesterday. It is now fully graphite with the front one way installed, RPM ballcups (they are rubbing the underside of my rear rims, need to trim them), titanium turnbuckles/hingepins, threaded shocks, trinity shock collars/bushings, and full ball bearings. My hands are super sore from pretapping everything, but it's all worth it! I don't have a spare servo at the moment, so I can't drive it yet. The tires are still being glued too. All the other electronics are in there: Tekin G12C ESC, Chameleon motor, and a Novak Receiver. I'm going to use the stock parts and see if I can rig up a XXX-4 just for fun! I can't wait to take her out for a spin.

[LouisB]

I've got the stock diff bearings, partly because none of the companies that make good bearings have distributors in the UK. I also have the bearings in the steering. I have titanium turnbuckles and hinge-pins, 4 degree castor blocks, bumper brace, dynamite bumper, swaybars, TC3 hexes and that's about it. I would have the graphite conversion but the changable weather means that I don't want holes in the bottom of my chassis.
I have flushed out my bearings and they spin free, will the Boca bearings make much difference?

[fast-rc]

i just finished building my xxx-s.
its awsome, i got a brand new one of ebay with a full graphite conversion and threaded shocks (one pair).

I ran it a copule times but i notice it was kinda loud not realli but not silent. Also when i slow down it makes like clicking and grinding kind of noises, is that normal?

Also what other mods do you recommend?

[LouisB]

The clicking is the belt skipping, it is normal to have about 4 clicks under heavy braking, if it skips more then tighten the belt tension. Also make sure that your diffs are not slipping, you will have to re-adjust them after a few minutes of running, that could be the cause of the noise (you can also check that the gear mesh is correct, it should have some play, if it's too tight then it will make weird noises)
Get the titanium turnbuckles and hinge pins, much lighter and stronger:)

[TSR6]

Originally posted by LouisB
Get the titanium turnbuckles and hinge pins, much lighter and stronger:)

I'm not so sure on the hinge pins, Everyone has told me that the Losi ones are stronger, but much heavier, and to only go for the TI hinge pins if you need to shave wieght.

I have heard of people bending them also..

-Troy

[LouisB]

I got the turnbuckles and hinge-pins together in a set. I bent a stock hinge-pin but not the Ti ones. They are much lighter and don't rust:)

[TSR6]

Originally posted by LouisB
I got the turnbuckles and hinge-pins together in a set. I bent a stock hinge-pin but not the Ti ones. They are much lighter and don't rust:)

I know they are lighter, no doubt about that at all.

I polished mine, no rusting yet. :D

-Troy

[LouisB]

A friends XXX-S is covered in rust:D that's what comes from racing in the rain;)

[phoenixR34]

"A friends XXX-S is covered in rust that's what comes from racing in the rain"

I just ran my XXX buggy into a lake yesterday by accident and so far, nothing has rusted! The Ti parts are good for something other than looks!

[LouisB]

Come to think of it, I've done as many races as him, but his screws, shafts and everything else metal is rusty, nothing on mine is:confused:
He must dip it in the sea to wash the dust off:D :D

[spenzalii]

HEHEHE Welcome GutterBall. Told ya patience is a virtue;)
STrangely enough, I didn't have to pre-tap everything. I just whipped out my trusty Dynamite wrench set and fired away. The car is just 2cool.

Somebody mentioned Trinity shock collars. Will they fit the standatd Losi threaded shocks? I really hate the look of those plastic collars, and they're harder to turn on a hot day than the aluminum ones.

[Gutter Ball]

Originally posted by spenzalii
[B]HEHEHE Welcome GutterBall. Told ya patience is a virtue;)
:P I'm very impressed with it so far!! I let my friend (he has a TC3) give it a couple of runs and he wants one now!! Indoor racing isn't for 3 more months though, so by then they might have some kind of super edition :) Hmm, lucky with the pre-tapping...I had to pretap every Losi kit I bought (MFE, KE, XXX-S, and XX-4). I'm still achin' from all that pretapping!

Somebody mentioned Trinity shock collars. Will they fit the standatd Losi threaded shocks?
Yup, perfect fit! I have them on all my shocks. They even make red ones now :cool: Those plastic ones were a nightmare for me to put on....I swear, mine weren't threaded properly!

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Gutter Ball
Yup, perfect fit! I have them on all my shocks. They even make red ones now :cool: Those plastic ones were a nightmare for me to put on....I swear, mine weren't threaded properly!

I pre-taped most of the car when i bought it. Mostly the countersunk screws with the smaller hex's.

The stock collars suck. I have two shocks that you can turn no problem, and another two that a sumo wrestler with a channel-lock couldnt turn if they wanted.

I plan on getting the AL collars soon. ;)

-Troy

[Dj Kumara]

What's pretapping?
Also, any building tips I should know before I build the car (when I get it). I read somewhere that it is easy to strip some of the screw holes because of an excess part in the way. Is this still the case? Thanks

[TSR6]

DJ - all the screws that come in the losi kit are black, exept for one gold-ish silver screw, which is what you use to pre-tap the holes. It has a larger hex ( 3/32) on it compared to the 1/16'th that the counter suck screws have. It is almost a must to pre-tap if you are using the kit's stock L wrenches, but might not be nessisary if you use a good hex driver. It's up to you..

As far as parts flasing causing you to strip screws, ive never had this problem, as i don't overtighten the hingepin set screws, but some people complain because there is a small amount of flashing inside the hole. As far as i know, it's only the setscrew that hold the outer hingepins in the carrier.

-Troy

[spenzalii]

As far as i know, it's only the setscrew that hold the outer hingepins in the carrier.
Yes indeed. I have stripped the threads on both the front and rear hub carriers and the hinge pins WILL slide and rub the inside of your wheel. You can
1. upgrade to the graphite pieces (I had no choice, that's all they had...)
2. place a SMALL dot of CA on the tip id the setscrew, which will hold it against the hingepin. Just be careful, you may get too much on there and cause the arms to bind
3. grind a flat in the pins, making them captured hingepins
4. buy the aluminum hubs from Dynamite or Trinity.
or
5. just be careful!:cool:

[LouisB]

6. Get some E clips and put them on each side (like most other cars)

[phoenixR34]

My graphite pieces stripped. Just put E Clips on the pins as suggested above.

[Gutter Ball]

I wish Losi would have used the same sized E clips for everything like AE. I had to order a set of those small E clips while the LHS had about 10 packs of the bigger sized ones...

[TSR6]

I've never striped the carriers personally, but it seams everyone else does. I just slowly snug it down untill i get no hinge-pin movement, then turn it just a tad tighter, never had a problem yet.

Note to self...dremeling the battery brace = bad idea. It added extra flex, and when i hit a pole today ( they jump out in front of you i tell ya ) the batteries... or at least half of them, shot forward into the forward position, when the rest stayed rearward...very bad..

-Troy

[Gutter Ball]

Originally posted by TSR6
Note to self...dremeling the battery brace = bad idea. It added extra flex, and when i hit a pole today ( they jump out in front of you i tell ya ) the batteries... or at least half of them, shot forward into the forward position, when the rest stayed rearward...very bad..

-Troy

D'oh, you mean that little tab that stops the battery from moving?? :eek: Hope not, cause I dremel'd mine away!!! I'm using split packs and that little piece got in the way....off it went! I put the battery foam in the middle. Is it a bad idea to use split packs in there??

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Gutter Ball


D'oh, you mean that little tab that stops the battery from moving?? :eek: Hope not, cause I dremel'd mine away!!! I'm using split packs and that little piece got in the way....off it went! I put the battery foam in the middle. Is it a bad idea to use split packs in there??

Nooo! That little tab is only for people using stick packs. The other side ( with ridges ) is for side-by-side packs.

My brace flexed... as i did a major dremel job to the battery hold-down, as seen here: http://www.shearracing.com/tsr6/xxxs/losi12.jpg

-Troy

[fast-rc]

This might sound like a stupid question cause i think I already know what the problems is. But, when I drive my car on high speed like full throttle, my car tends to lean in one direction, I turn to the other, and then it starts to swerve back an forth.

I had to cut some of my spoiler cause their was a crack down the middle, so i took out the back part of the spoiler. Would that be causing my problem?

[TSR6]

Check trim? Check for loose parts? check for anything in the drive train binding?

[AssociatedRacer]

try a different servo...maybe that'll work

[TSR6]

It's probably not the servo unless it's not centering properly.

-Troy

[Bigmoo89]

hey try loosening the screws that hold the crossbar between the bell cranks they will cause the steering to bind.... had the same thing happen to me

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Bigmoo89
hey try loosening the screws that hold the crossbar between the bell cranks they will cause the steering to bind.... had the same thing happen to me

They shouldn't bind if you have those bushings in there. The screw puts all it's tension against the bushing, and not the steering linkage. ...or at least it should.

-Troy

[phoenixR34]

Well on the bellcranks themselves, you can tighten the crap out of the screws and it makes no difference. I'm referring to when the screw tightens into the aluminum post, the tension is on the bearings/bushings.

On the crossbar itself (that connects both sides of the steering system), I've noticed that if you tighten it too much, the steering will bind. I've actually had to "set the tension" on the crossbar. Maybe there's something funny going on...

[TSR6]

Originally posted by phoenixR34
Well on the bellcranks themselves, you can tighten the crap out of the screws and it makes no difference. I'm referring to when the screw tightens into the aluminum post, the tension is on the bearings/bushings.

On the crossbar itself (that connects both sides of the steering system), I've noticed that if you tighten it too much, the steering will bind. I've actually had to "set the tension" on the crossbar. Maybe there's something funny going on...

I tighten the crap out of the "crossbar" and it doesnt bind.

The onlytime i have had binding, was when i tried to put washers in between the bearings, and the screw on the bellcranks. I was trying to removing the up and down play that it has, after converting to bearings.

-Troy

[fast-rc]

Have 2 question-

How can you tell if the servo is centered, because i had a really hard time putting that part together?

Would cutting the backing of the spoiler affect the steering?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by fast-rc
Have 2 question-

How can you tell if the servo is centered, because i had a really hard time putting that part together?

Would cutting the backing of the spoiler affect the steering?

Do you have equal throw in both directions? If so.. it is centered.

Did you cut the spoiler significantly higher on one side compared to the other? if not.. no ( i assume you are still talking about the wandering problem )

-Troy

[Losiracer]

to center the servo take the saver off and turn the radio stuff on and center the trim. then reinstall the saver and dont move the servo while doing so

[Bigmoo89]

My xxx-s got me a third place trophy yesterday for a main stock touring at the rc madness asphalt shoot out... and i just picked up the the one way and a new set of foam tires... so should be even faster next weekend..

[teamchicken]

he everybody i just got back from vacation and i finally have enough money to buy a xxx-s. i will be getting it tomorrow asd i was wonder if you guys had any building tips. thanx for your help. oh and what is a good starting pinion size with a p2k2 motor??

[TSR6]

Take your time. Use the pre-tapping screw that Losi gives you, and use quality hex drivers instead of the included L wrenches if possible.

Gearing depends on your track, but i think i was using 23teeth around here.

-Troy

[teamchicken]

ok thanx i will ask the guys at my lhs about the pinion size.

[fast-rc]

is this overgearing for a xxx-s? I put a p2k2 pro in there with the stock 88 tooth spur and a 26 tooth pinion. Because i just clean my motor with a comm stick, clean it out with motor spray, stuck some fantom brushes in there, broke it in for 5 min. with trinity break in drops, and the freakin motor was toast.

[Gutter Ball]

I would say that's too big a pinion. I'm using a 21 with my MVP.

[fast-rc]

i have friends using a 30 tooth on gm3 and he's is fine though?
Also they mvp tends to run hotter than a p2k2

[Gutter Ball]

A 30?!?! Wow! He must have some sort of god GM3. MVP's only run hot if they are geared improperly. Mine doesn't run too hot after a 6 minute run and I don't have the heatsink yet...but 30? I'm surprised the motor even moves! :eek:

[teamchicken]

hey guys i am in the process of building my xxx-s and i have run into a slight problem. the belt tensioner pulley is rubbing against my spur gear and it slows it way down and the spur is kind of hard to turn. what do u guys think i should do???:confused:

[TSR6]

Originally posted by teamchicken
hey guys i am in the process of building my xxx-s and i have run into a slight problem. the belt tensioner pulley is rubbing against my spur gear and it slows it way down and the spur is kind of hard to turn. what do u guys think i should do???:confused:

The two screws on the side that go into the spur assembly... i think if you crank those down too hard it might cause the binding. Im not sure without looking at my car, but something to check. Also check the bearings.

-Troy

[t3dude]

is anyone interested in trading my hopped up micro for a xxxs
if so please email me at
tonynalli@yahoo.com

[teamchicken]

i finally finished my xxx-s!!!:D im so happy, it is awesome, i cant wait till i get my electronics. i am ordering them right now.

[AssociatedRacer]

Just got my XXXS today, but i got one problem. The chassis is graphite and batts touch it...what to do?

[teamchicken]

i would just put some thin foam under the batts ( i thought the chassis was stiffezel?????:confused: )

[Gutter Ball]

Originally posted by TEAMLOSIRACER
Just got my XXXS today, but i got one problem. The chassis is graphite and batts touch it...what to do?

You mean the batteries touch the part in the middle where the belt is housed? I just bought some foam tape and lined it. I also lined the outer edge, just in case :)

[sixandeightstringer]

Originally posted by TEAMLOSIRACER
Just got my XXXS today, but i got one problem. The chassis is graphite and batts touch it...what to do?

I just run a strip of electrical tape around the batteries. That way they don't short to each other on my pit table, either.

[TSR6]

Yeah, just put a nice strip of electrical tape, or if you want to get fancy, use some type of decals.

I have used Chrome, and carbon fiber decals on the side of the belt tunnel. Stylin!

-Troy

[asociatedman14]

i need some help, i bought a p94 10t triple ,what size pinon i should go with. i have a stock spur. i was thinking a 23 was about right

thanks

[TSR6]

Originally posted by asociatedman14
i need some help, i bought a p94 10t triple ,what size pinon i should go with. i have a stock spur. i was thinking a 23 was about right

thanks

It depends on the track you run on. When i had the stock 88T spur, i ran a 23T pinion with a P2k.

-Troy

[asociatedman14]

ok,are the heatsinks sreally worth the money

[TSR6]

Originally posted by asociatedman14
ok,are the heatsinks sreally worth the money

imho... no. I bought one for my X-S. I have not used it since early winter.

-Troy

[spenzalii]

When i had the stock 88T spur, i ran a 23T pinion with a P2k.
This is so very confusing. I have a P-94 12x2 (32.158 rpm, 210.9w) and a 21 tooth. Admittedly, I mainly bash in the lot (overkill with this car, I know, but the nearest 'track' is 45 minutes out). Should I be adding teeth or loosing teeth, and what advantage would this give me. I really need to get a grasp on this gear theory B4 I get my brushless (yes, I want to run with the nitros, if only to silence them once and for all):D

[LouisB]

Originally posted by spenzalii

This is so very confusing. I have a P-94 12x2 (32.158 rpm, 210.9w) and a 21 tooth. Admittedly, I mainly bash in the lot (overkill with this car, I know, but the nearest 'track' is 45 minutes out). Should I be adding teeth or loosing teeth, and what advantage would this give me. I really need to get a grasp on this gear theory B4 I get my brushless (yes, I want to run with the nitros, if only to silence them once and for all):D

If you're just bashing then 21 should be ok, for nice top speed and good acceleration. You'd get more run time if u geared down to 20 but you don't really need to:)
You can forget what you've learned when you get your B/L, you should be gearing one of those as high (or higher) than a stock motor b/c they have so much torque, but rpm is about the same.

[fast-rc]

P2k2 pro, mvp, gm3, fantom versions of those motors <-------, birdman stock? Which would kill the competition on stock oval?

[TSR6]

XXX-S Oval? ...say what?


... ? ??? :confused: :confused: :confused: ...

anyways... my guess... pure guess... would be a GM3... going for RPM's...

[fast-rc]

yea im kinda new at touring, and hobby town does novice oval so im gonna do that till i get good enough for the street course.

One more q fantom version or non-fantom?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by fast-rc
yea im kinda new at touring, and hobby town does novice oval so im gonna do that till i get good enough for the street course.

One more q fantom version or non-fantom?

if you are just starting, don't worry about the extra bux for a fantom.

learn to drive where you plan on racing. If you do otherwise, you may just pick up bad habbits :(

[teamchicken]

man the xxx-s is the best car that i have ever driven. i just got my electronics yesterday and i have had so much fun driving it. i cant wait till i start racing:rolleyes: this car is awesome . it handles great and it hauls even with a p2k2

[Archerboi]

Just wondering has anyone turned there XXX-s into a rally car? I would like to get one to bash around, and since all of the drivetrain is sealed, it would be perfect. Could I raise the car pretty much? How high can it go? Thanks.

[fast-rc]

just raced last night with my xxx-s.(oval) Put a birdman stock in there and that thing flew. Got second one race, dropped the other, and got 3rd in b-main.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Archerboi
Just wondering has anyone turned there XXX-s into a rally car? I would like to get one to bash around, and since all of the drivetrain is sealed, it would be perfect. Could I raise the car pretty much? How high can it go? Thanks.

I have heard 8mm, i cannot verify that though...

[Archerboi]

Ok thanks.

[spenzalii]

Just out of curiosity, what kind of gear ratio/motor/ top speed combos is everyone running in here? Just about every magazine and setup I have seen has varied from the manual by at least 2 teeth. I want to get the most out of my 12X2 (stock spur) without burning up my P94 prematurely, and I want a good idea of where to start when I drop the 9 in there.

[TSR6]

I run 7.56 with a GM3 on carpet...

-Troy

[phoenixR34]

My LHS is blowing out the Team Losi touring car slicks for $3.00 a pair, and they have about 4 pairs (8 tires total, 2 sets of four). Given the Sorex I usually run are about $15.00 a pair I figure the Losi tires are worth a shot, or eventually I will run across a situation where I can use them to finish decently.

My question is..... All the tires are the Low-Profile Yellow compound tires (Part #A-7702Y). According to their website Losi makes Blue Red and Yellow (listed in that order), so naturally I'm thinking that Yellow is either the softest or hardest tire. Has anyone ever used these or can anyone give me some insight as to what the compound is relative to the other Losi touring car slicks? The surface condition is different almost every weekend at my track so I'm constantly switching compounds. If I can have an idea if it's a soft or harder tire, it'll save a lot of time trying to evaluate these tires. thanks

[fast-rc]

how much should i sell a brand new xxx-s main chassis ( not graphite) and 2 brand new stock shocks never put together.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by fast-rc
how much should i sell a brand new xxx-s main chassis ( not graphite) and 2 brand new stock shocks never put together.

the stock stiffezel chassis sells for $28 if i remember right.

a shock set, i think runs for $15 ( steel shock shafts, not Ti-Ni )

-Troy

[StevePond]

It appears to be working now.

[StevePond]

:D

[TSR6]

Originally posted by SteveP
It appears to be working now.

I didn't know it was broken. :) I just didnt think people were posting on it... oh well..

Steve...you da man.

[fast-rc]

whats a good set up for stock sedan oval. Like loose diff in front/ stiff in back, shock position, etc.. Are the ones on teamlosi.com any good, like the pro set ups.

[minime]

I think the old xxx-s forum is broken, I keep receiving notifications of new messages but there are never any updates, so here is a new one, that can be used.

Tony

[StevePond]

This forum should be up and running again. Sorry for the delay in getting it back up.

[StevePond]

Just trying it again to be sure...

[minime]

Seems to be working again...

So has anyone tried the under/over drive options? and what effect?

Tony

[TSR6]

Wooo! It works?

-Troy

[spenzalii]

After about a month! Happy days are here again!

Question: I saw someone selling BLUE aluminum arms for the XXX-S. Now that Dynamite has ceasd making their line of XXXS hop-ups, does anyone know where to find those? I'm trying not to go to Trinity, but if worst comes to worst... BTW, would they really be worth it?

[Evil_S10]

I dont think that they would be worth it if you are planning on racing with them. I think that they will most likely add weight to the car. If you were going to race with it, I would just buy a set of graphite a-arms or stick with stock.

[TSR6]

No

Reason One - Wieght

Reason Two - If you bend it slightly, it will change the car's handling, and you might not notice that it's bent, but something will be jacked up when you get it on the track.

-Troy

[fast-rc]

whats a good set up for stock sedan oval. Like loose diff in front/ stiff in back, shock position, etc.. Are the ones on teamlosi.com any good, like the pro set ups.

[TSR6]

TeamLosi.com setups are good, but may require tweaking for your conditions and driving.

I personally use the stock shock locations, inner most holes for the camber links, and in the rear, inner most on the shock tower, outer most on the carrier.

One-Way diff, 60wt oil all around, stock pistons.

-Troy

[spenzalii]

That's something to think about. We mainly do drag racing in the parking lot, but if I ever get time, I would travel the 45 miles to the closest real track and practice my driving skills. The last thing I want to do is nick the board and shatter the arm, but if the weight is too much, it's trading between 2 evils. I really wanna go brushless, but I have to save the 250 for a good setup. As a stpgap, I'll probably get the SpeedGems Pro Kryptonite. A frankensteined 9T D4 for 28 bucks really can't be beat, especially since I have to get my comm cut on my P94

[TSR6]

I've never shattered one. Every hit that i've broken parts on this car, exept for one that i can think of off hand, deserved to have a couple parts broken, if you know what i mean. ( MUST have been previously cracked, very light wall-brush )

I've never broken a graphite arm...knock on wood. I've broken a couple stiffezel ones though, maybe 2?

-Troy

[ole]

TSR6

i'm planning to buy XXX-S what parts should i stock? what aluminum hopups do you recommend?

[Todd Hodge]

The only parts you might want to get as extras is some caster blocks. As for aluminum parts, I really would'nt recommend any since they will add alot of weight to the car.

[AssociatedRacer]

Todd...any setup tips on socal? is it better to run short shock bodies in the front?

[Todd Hodge]

I think it is. The short shocks give the car two advantages. One they will give you more uptravel which will let your car not be affected by the dots at Socal. The other is that the short shocks allow the piston the float in the oil more so than the original stock shocks. This will give your front end a more dampened feel and will also yield more consistent handling.

[TSR6]

Hey Todd - About the short shocks, when going to the low roll center mod, i needed to switch back to the .36" bodies, with the .28" shafts. With the .28" bodies and shafts, the lowest droop setting i could get was about 6-8 on the Losi guage. ( going off the top of my head, but it was pretty rediculous ). The shocks were bottomed out, and once i removed the screw from the bottom, the arms droped like a rock, so it's not my dremel job preventing it, the shocks are just bottomed out. After switching to the .36 bodies, i had no problem with droop settings.

A couple guys on RCTech mentioned that they run the .28 bodies and shafts with no problem with the low roll center.

-Troy

[Todd Hodge]

Troy-Are you talking about the front or rear of the car? If you have them on the rear you don't need them there. You only need them on the front.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Todd Hodge
Troy-Are you talking about the front or rear of the car? If you have them on the rear you don't need them there. You only need them on the front.

Front only.

[Todd Hodge]

TSR6-You should be able to get more droop than that. I know when I run full low roll center I unscrew the bottom of the shock end to get my desired droops which range from 1-3 on the losi gauge.

[TSR6]

I was not unscrewing the bottom shock eyelet at all.

It's fine with the .36 bodies, and i know other people who run it that way, so im not too worried about it, but i was just curious after seeing people post that they used the .28 bodies.

-Troy