XXX-S Forum v1.0

[fast-rc]

hey i got a tire problem. I'm running these slicks my friend let me borrow. Like the tire have come of 3 times and I lost a screw everytime. Like the rims are weird the hex fits but 2 rims are realli deep ( like the holes for the hex) and the other is realli shallow.
You think thats my problem?

[LouisB]

It sounds (i think) like the wheels have a different off-set and are not designed for a standard TC (could be Tamiya) and the wheel nut doesn't get far enough on to the axle to lock there.

[TSR6]

Check to make sure that the nylon inside the nut is accually making contact with the threads. If it is not, it will likely come off.

Otherwise, Which wheels are they?

[fast-rc]

Yea I think LouisB is right. Because they are either tamyia or kyosho because his bro had a tamiya and he had a kyosho.

Hey on your stock tires did the tread ever like seperate. My stock tires gave out in like 3 weeks, the foam insert shoot out of the rubber form the top of the treads.

[LouisB]

The rubber's quite thin and the tires aren't belted so I can see that happening after a couple of weeks use, I never even ran them:)

[TSR6]

I run Tamiya Dish wheels with no problem.

Unfortunately, I mounted the stock tires, never used them.

-Troy

[LouisB]

Tamiya competition tourers use industry standard 0mm off-set wheels and make wheels to fit on them (like the ones you use) but some of the older or budget spec ones have diffrent off-sets, it's just hte way Tamiya did it in the past but are changing now.

[sLiTcH]

Does anybody has a good winning setup that did its prove on local track to share. I'm a good driver but I really don't have it to invent setups. You can just share them on the forum or send them to me at phil_ou_felin@hotmail.com if you didn't know on www.teamlosi.com you can find blank setup sheets you can fill

[Dj Kumara]

Is it just me or does the xxxs break easily when you 'nick a wall.' I've had a TL01 for three years and never broken a part (excepting the Subaru body), which includes head-ons with the curb, flips off it and jumps galore. It does only have a mabuchi motor though. I hope I am wrong. Plus which parts break the most, so I can get some spares. Thanks

[TSR6]

slitch - Setups are not inveneted... They are worked on. Just go to the track, and go out, do about 4 laps, pull the car in, and change something. Put the car back out, go out for another 4 laps or so, pull it in. Ask yourself what the change did, if it helped, maybe try going further. If it did not help, reverse the change, and go a bit further in the oposite directions.

DJ - Only once or twice have i asked myself "Why the hell did that break? I know brushed the wall." The one race, I am almost positive that the rear carrier must have been previously cracked, as i took a pretty bad hit during the last heat.

I had radio problems during several races over the summer, and litterally blasted the car into the wall a couple times to break nothing.

I guess it all depends on where and how you hit something.

-Troy

[spenzalii]

I've actually had the car run over on the left rear side. The only damage was the tires (foams were bent like ovals), rear shock tower and shock eyelet, and left outdrive. The arms, carrier, cvd were fine, it doesn't seem tweaked at all. Now I have to set everything back up since I upgraded to graphite towers and ti turnbuckles (one looked like it bent)

[Evil_S10]

Team PRP has new shock towers for the XXX-S
Here are the prototypes-

Rear tower, middle rows of camber and shock mount holes are stock locations. http://home.attbi.com/~teamprp/XXXS...ne_rear_002.jpg

Front tower- bottom row of camber and shock mount holes are stock. http://home.attbi.com/~teamprp/XXXS...e_front_002.jpg

Would there be enough interest in these towers?

Exact release day and price not yet set- but I want to get a batch out before OktoberFAST the first weekend of October.

Thanks!
Ben, Team PRP.
teamprp@attbi.com

I did not write this, but Team PRP from RCTech.net wrote this and I would love to hear what people think of these shock towers. If you are interested in them, drop Team PRP an e-mail and tell them.

[AssociatedRacer]

hey would the front bumper brace(carbon fiber one) help against breakage?

[TSR6]

TeamLosi - I've run the Losi lexan brace, and after bending a couple, i took it off. I would be afraid that a carbon fiber one would break personally..

[Evil_S10]

Has anyone tried the Trinity MF bumper brace? I was debating on getting that or the Losi one.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Evil_S10
Has anyone tried the Trinity MF bumper brace? I was debating on getting that or the Losi one.

Mine broke..

I was told they break after i bought it.. It didnt last very long..

I dont use a brace anymore.

[LouisB]

I use the dynamite bumper and Losi lexan brace, I used the brace with a stock bumper and it didn't break (can't have been driving fast enough) but I prefer the support of the dynamite bumper, it makes the body posts really solid

[TSR6]

I've been pretty brutal on front end parts lately. My radio went down the tubes, and at the far end of the track for almost a month i would glitch like nuts, and just pull it off. ( i survived last week ).

I've bent 2 Losi bumpers beyond what i like to run. I flip them the first time, and after that they get the crease in them, so i took it off. The Trinity one i broke, but don't remember when.

I finally realized i really don't need those bumper braces, i just need a M8.

-Troy:cool:

[tperkins]

Hey Everybody

I just bought a used XXX-S with a load of Graphite parts and some MF parts. It also has some threaded shocks and Lunsford titanium turnbuckles. I put on some Venom Nitro wheels and HPI slicks. I am on a low budget, so i ordered one of the new SpeedGem Pro 9t Cryptonite motor, and a Integey Oracle ESC. It looks pretty good, and it has a built-in fail safe. I also ordered a MF red motor plate. It looks to be a pretty good car. I have it setup like Paul Lemuix, and I cant wait to test it out. I will also be running a pack of Sanyo 2000s. It also came with a one way, and I was wondering if I should install it now, or wait till I start racing?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by tperkins
Hey Everybody

I just bought a used XXX-S with a load of Graphite parts and some MF parts. It also has some threaded shocks and Lunsford titanium turnbuckles. I put on some Venom Nitro wheels and HPI slicks. I am on a low budget, so i ordered one of the new SpeedGem Pro 9t Cryptonite motor, and a Integey Oracle ESC. It looks pretty good, and it has a built-in fail safe. I also ordered a MF red motor plate. It looks to be a pretty good car. I have it setup like Paul Lemuix, and I cant wait to test it out. I will also be running a pack of Sanyo 2000s. It also came with a one way, and I was wondering if I should install it now, or wait till I start racing?

Personally, I would suggest racing without the one-way, and wait till you get some track time down. Then, when you have some spare practice time, and time to swap it out afterwards if you do not like it, then try the one way. When i first ran the One-Way, i did not like it, now it's all that i run...

-Troy

[XYZ]

TSR6 why do you need an M8? i have a 3D and never had a glich.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by XYZ
TSR6 why do you need an M8? i have a 3D and never had a glich.

I never did untill this summer either. Don't get me wrong, the 3D is a nice radio, but after borrowing a M8 for a heat, it had a better feel, in my opinion. The major reason of me going for the 3D over the M8 was the Spectra, and I have a feeling the 3D won't be alone for much longer in the synthisized world.

-Troy

[racer13]

any one looking to buy a xxx-s for 200 with lots of extra's? ( 3 bodies, motor, servo, remote, receiver, esc, 9 pairs of tires, 1 pair rims, graphite a-arms & knuckles.. tons of other things.. i will go down on the price just give me an offer.. only trade for Futaba 3pjfs or 3pj. email me for pictures or info here.. (blasto_man2@hotmail.com)

[AssociatedRacer]

what does the roll center mod do? When would you want to use it?

[ole]

anybody using mattfrancis spur gear adapter, alum rear hub carriers and alum steering knuckles for xxx-s? are they for eye appeal only?

[spenzalii]

The spur gear adapter allows you to use a standard spur gear for the XXX-S. The losi supplied one is molded for the gear and the belt and must be replaced as a whole if you wish to adjust the gear ratio apart from the pinion. With the adaptor, you can use whatever size and pitch you like.

The rear carriers add some strength, but adds weight also. Same with the front knuckles. They do look cool, however.

[fast-rc]

Originally posted by TEAMLOSIRACER
what does the roll center mod do? When would you want to use it?

i wanted to ask the same question, so what does it do????

[AKS]

I'm sorry if this is a newbie question, but I just got into the hobby and purchased a XXX-s. However, the wheel wells on the HPI 190mm M3 GT body that I bought for it does not line up correctly. Does anybody know if this can be adjusted or fixed? Thanks for any help.

[Todd Hodge]

ole-I would be hesitant on the aluminum hubs. I have seen alot of those break.

Teamlosiracer-The roll centers mod allows you to lower or rasie the pin hieght on your car. By lowering the pin height this will give your car more chassis roll. By having the pin in the raised position your chassis will roll less. Personally I like my car with low in the rear and mid in the front. I also feel this is a personal preference on how you want your car to feel. For example, Matt Francis runs high roll center on the front and rear. I run low rear and mid front. At the nats Paul Lemiuex ran low front and low rear.

[fast-rc]

so all you do to get low roll is get different pivot blocks with lower holes.

Where can I find those or is it like one of those dremel some holes job?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by fast-rc
so all you do to get low roll is get different pivot blocks with lower holes.

Where can I find those or is it like one of those dremel some holes job?

fast-rc - I cut the stock blocks down to the low by cutting 0.150" off each hinge pin block.

I took a set of metal calipers, set it open to 0.150" and put the and scratched a mark into it, then took it to an industrial belt sander ( tim allen grunt ..heh. ) I then used fine sand paper to both clean up the blocks, and remove the final bit of material.

To run mid roll centers, you need to run spacers undernieth the blocks.

Speedtech & Trinity both make aluminum low roll center blocks. I know the Speedtech blocks come with a spacer to add under the block to space it back up to the high roll center, I am not sure about Trinity.

www.speedtechrc.com

AKS - How much are the wheel holes off by? Just trim the holes a little larger if nessisary, and if it isnt off by much.

[TSR6]

Also, I forgot to add, when doing the low roll center modifications, you will need to modify some parts to allow clearance.

You also need to cut the droop screws down a bit too. I honestly wouldn't suggest doing this unless you are handy with a dremel. You need to add clearance for both the suspension arms on the chassis ( remove the little gusset thing on the front ) and cut the little nubs where the droops screws go through down so it doesnt hit the arm.

Much of it was a dremel... and test fit proccess.

-Troy

[fast-rc]

Im alright with the dremel but sometimes the dremel might go wack and opps there goes an a-amr, opps there goes a part of a rim.

Hey I still sometimes have the wheel coming of the car, but this time there are on the stock losi rims ( 0 off set ) and I replaced the nut with a 2 day old nut. What's a way I can fix this?

[AssociatedRacer]

Put the wheel nuts backwards and tightened pretty tight...

[spenzalii]

Check the locknuts on there, the plastic retainer may have been worn. BTW, are you using the Losi size wheel adaptor or the standard 12mm adaptor? I'd recommend switching to the aluminum adaptors. With the captured pins, no more chances of them coming off the wheel.

[Backfire]

Has anyone seen an expected release date or availability on the recently announced Graphite Edition? There is an image and description on Losi's site, but nothing about a date.

[Todd Hodge]

Backfire-Sometime in November.

[tpk]

Anyone has a good starting point for a 'XXX-S tight carpet track setup'? I'm limited to use rubber tires such as Takeoff CS-27, Yokomo ZR-138W or Sorex 32R.

Thanks in advance.

ciao tpk

[LouisB]

Originally posted by tpk
Anyone has a good starting point for a 'XXX-S tight carpet track setup'? I'm limited to use rubber tires such as Takeoff CS-27, Yokomo ZR-138W or Sorex 32R.

Thanks in advance.

ciao tpk

Go to the Team Losi site (http://www.teamlosi.com) and have a look at the set-ups:)

[tpk]

Thanks for the hint, I must have overlooked the big XXX-S icon when I visited the site last time :)

ciao tpk

[fast-rc]

is there like a diff rebuild kit? cause when i took my front one out it looked horrible. The ball in it seemed all smashed up and the side of the pulley were coming of ( the little slots where u push there balls into).

Also do you guys usually have to sand down the ball cup in the front connected to the front spindles?

[TSR6]

I only sanded down the rear ball cups on my car, as when i added a washer under the ballstud, it would hit under the wheel.

I currently do not have a washer under it, so it doesnt matter anymore.

How does it run in the front? I don't have my x-s here with me, but unless your ballstud is loose, it should have plenty of clearance.

I do not think there is a specific diff rebuild kit. I know the shaft, and a couple other things come together in a package, but the rings, and diff pullies come seperate.

-Troy

[fast-rc]

the front ball cup have barely one mm of clearance from the wheel. The car as 4mm of droop. But i think it has those short shock in the front. I think when every i turn the ball touches against the rims making some noise.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by fast-rc
the front ball cup have barely one mm of clearance from the wheel. The car as 4mm of droop. But i think it has those short shock in the front. I think when every i turn the ball touches against the rims making some noise.

You are talking about the camber link ballcup, correct?

When you turn, it does not get any closer to the wheel that it is when the wheels are straight.

-Troy

[FROGSTER]

just file down the top of the ball cups to clear the wheels

[tpk]

Can someone please educate me on the Losi shock pistons. I know they are rated by # or collors. I currently have orange and red ones. I know they are #55 and #56. I've been recomended to use black ones in front.

How do they differ? I guess it's only the size (i.e. diameter) of the piston? Any experience?

Thanks in advance.

ciao tpk

[Backfire]

I think this is correct

54 --- Blue
55 --- Orange
56 --- Red
57 --- Black
60 --- White


The lower the number, the larger the holes in the piston. That means less resistance as the oil flows through it. All the pistons are the same "size". its just the size of the holes that changes.

[tpk]

Backfire,

thanks for your help.

ciao tpk

[tcrcr]

best place and lowest price for a nib xxx-s ? thanks.

[tcrcr]

best place and lowest price for a nib xxx-s ? thanks.

[TSR6]

www.kthobbies.com for the graphite plus ( pre-order )

[SirSpeedy]

If you want a regular kit, a good friend of mine has a NIB kit on eBay....
http://**************/ws/*******************************1768396218

TSR6 can verify my credibility.

[EricF]

What is typically used to define the lanes on a carpet track?
Wood, PVC, old fire hose? Any opinions on what works best?
What have you guys seen in your travels to different tracks or at your own track?

Eric

[TSR6]

Originally posted by EricF
What is typically used to define the lanes on a carpet track?
Wood, PVC, old fire hose? Any opinions on what works best?
What have you guys seen in your travels to different tracks or at your own track?

Eric

I've raced on PVC, Wood, and Island dividers.

I prefer Islands, PVC works well too.. I dislike wood the most, but hey, it works..

just sometimes the gaps "grab" cars...

[Gutter Ball]

We use 4 inch PVC piping, cheap and lasts forever! The connectors like to grab cars though.

[EricF]

thanks for the replies...
But if PVC is being used on carpet, how do you get the PVC to stay in place, or does have to with the weight of the PVC when connected together that prevents it from moving when the cars impact it (mainly mod touring cars).

Thanks,
Eric

[TSR6]

Originally posted by EricF
thanks for the replies...
But if PVC is being used on carpet, how do you get the PVC to stay in place, or does have to with the weight of the PVC when connected together that prevents it from moving when the cars impact it (mainly mod touring cars).

Thanks,
Eric

Sandbags. :) I guess i should clarify..

Ive raced on PVC & wood on Asphault, and Island / Wood combo's on carpet.

I personally feel islands are the way to go. You don't break stuff, you just go for a jump..

-Troy

[Gutter Ball]

We use 6" screws to hold our track down :) We race on carpet.

[fast-rc]

what kind of tires are good for asphalt? Slicks, Foams,what brand, & where can i get em.

[tpk]

Currently we are limited to rubber tires only in Germany. I mostly use Take-off CS27 with firm yokomo 24mm inserts (037f) on asphalt. In rare cases I use the Yokomo ZR-138W together with the firm 24mm yokomo inserts.

The Take-off have very good wear and great traction in a broad band of temparature. Our tracks are permanent and have good grip conditions.

I only have sources here in Germany.

ciao tpk

[LouisB]

I like Take Off tires too, they have great grip and wear better than most others.

[tpk]

@LuisB: What inserts do you use?

For the 'upcomming' carpet racing I prefer blue JB foam inserts.

ciao tpk

[TSR6]

I use Sorex 36 during the hot summer, when the track is above.. oh heck.. probably 100*F ( guessing ) I've run Sorex 32 for the last two weeks, as the temp has droped drasticly.

I run Sorex 28 on Carpet.

I use Yokomo Thin Firm, or HPI Red inserts.

-Troy

[Bigmoo89]

on asphalt i run proline purple dot rears and double purple fronts,
on carpet i run purple rear and purple/orange(or plaid there the
same thing) on the front. alot of the mod guys run pink rears for
traction.

[LouisB]

Originally posted by tpk
@LuisB: What inserts do you use?

For the 'upcomming' carpet racing I prefer blue JB foam inserts.

ciao tpk

Either Take Off mediums or Sorex firm inserts. I think I'm going to get some ING tires b/c they're really cheap and put them on some Tamiya blue wheels (also cheap):)

[fast-rc]

whats the best traction stuff for rubber tires?

[TSR6]

I use TQ Blue.

[tpk]

I use Jack-the-Gripper from Corally or some home-made stuff from my LHS.

ciao tpk

[crono man]

hey guys do you know if losi will still be making the regular kit now that the graphite edition is coming?

thanks;)

[fast-rc]

i dont see why not, because the regular kit would just be like the basic xxx-s kit, instead of the rtr or the graphite. So I would think they would still make the reg. kit.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by fast-rc
i dont see why not, because the regular kit would just be like the basic xxx-s kit, instead of the rtr or the graphite. So I would think they would still make the reg. kit.

I dont see the point at all... personally.

XXX-S $220 v.s. XXX-S Plus $260 + $80 for the graphite conversion + all the extra goodies.

It wouldnt make sence, but yes.. they are making a RTR... Im not sure on if the "xxx-s" will continue though..

[LouisB]

TSR6 is right, they will most likely stop making the standard version. Look at what Losi did with the XXX, they made the standard version and then along came the KE and Dirt Spec kits and they stopped making the standard one.

I use Zip Grip Free

[fast-rc]

yea i think your right

hey maybe they'll drop the price to 180 or something eh.... nm i doubt they would do it. I wished i would of waited for the graphite version. But o well i got a really good deal on ebay 204 for nib xxx-s and nib full graphite conversion.

[carbide]

yeah they should stop making it maybe like a month after the graphite comes out

no more norm XXX or norm XXXT now but i still see a couple of normal XXXNT's for sale but theres no point in selling normals after they put the graphite kits out


but i was wondering if the graphite kit comes with the short shocks or a front one-way


the first time a drove a XXX-S was a week ago and now i love em.
When i get mine ill prolly end up jumping it off something but hey itll be a lot of fun jumping a touring car:D :D

[AKS]

I recently bought a used xxx-s and finally got it running. Boy, is this thing fast. However, I did notice that when I turn the front wheels either left or right to their fullest extent, the drivetrain seems to be what I would describe as "choppy". It almost seems as if the belt drive or a part of the drivetrain is skipping. As soon as I align the front wheels back to center, the drivetrain is ultra smooth once again. Has anybody heard of this or have had a similar problem? Is this normal? Any help or ideas about what might be causing this would be greatly appreciated!

[JKA]

Gotta stupid question that I want a stupid (but correct) answer for.....

Droop. What IS the correct way to measure it?

I've been told three different ways and quite honestly am not fond of any of em.

Details please.

[minime]

Originally posted by AKS
I recently bought a used xxx-s and finally got it running. Boy, is this thing fast. However, I did notice that when I turn the front wheels either left or right to their fullest extent, the drivetrain seems to be what I would describe as "choppy". It almost seems as if the belt drive or a part of the drivetrain is skipping. As soon as I align the front wheels back to center, the drivetrain is ultra smooth once again. Has anybody heard of this or have had a similar problem? Is this normal? Any help or ideas about what might be causing this would be greatly appreciated!

AKS,

It sounds like your finding the limits of the CVD's you should probably never need to turn that much, you maybe able to adjust your radio to limit turning in each direction if that is the case.

Or maybe the CVD's need to be rebuilt, check the manual for how to do that.

Hope this helps.

Tony

[TSR6]

Give me 5-10minutes, and ill take a picture while setting droop. :D

[AETC3]

well my car was running all day today after a while, I got it fixed the other day. but their is another tragedy, my front shock tower broke, should I go graphite ? I am a backyard basher so I was hitting speed bumps and stuff so thats why it probably broke, I need something VERY VERY VERY durable, so should i buy one graphite or like 2 regular ? Thanks guys, BTW my aol sn is purplehaze339 so if someone wants to hit me up and teach me it would be very helpful, thanks

[AKS]

Tony,

Thank you so much for your response. The CVD's is what I thought was the cause as well after fiddling with the car more. How far of steering travel should the losi be able to take before the CVD's hit their limits? My bellcranks will currently go as far as the center chassis will allow it to. I will try to rebuild it later tonight as per the manual. Thanks again for your comments and suggestions.

[TSR6]

I don't suggest Graphite unless you are racing, personally.

DROOP..

Images below will explain what i mean, BUT, with the Losi tool, set the flat part, or Zero droop on the chassis, then let the arms bottom out on the droop screws, or bottom out as far as the shocks let them go. The droop # will rest flat on the very end of the arm.. as shown below

[TSR6]

x

[AETC3]

so graphite ain't good ? Is there any other shock towers for the xxxs right now thats durable ?

[TSR6]

graphite is fine, its lighter, stiffer, but at the same time, somewhat more brittle.

I would suggest just staying with the stock siffezel parts unless you start racing competitivly.

-Troy

[AETC3]

you seem to know your stuff about the xxxs, do you have AIM so I could talk to you ? I need to get this whole thing straightened out, thanks

[minime]

Originally posted by AKS
Tony,

Thank you so much for your response. The CVD's is what I thought was the cause as well after fiddling with the car more. How far of steering travel should the losi be able to take before the CVD's hit their limits? My bellcranks will currently go as far as the center chassis will allow it to. I will try to rebuild it later tonight as per the manual. Thanks again for your comments and suggestions.

From memory my car is setup so that the bellcranks are parallel with the belt tunnel at the steering full extents. Not simultaneously, obviously.

This works for me, it really depends on how much steering you need to get around your tracks(s), I don't like having too much steering because the more you turn the less efficient the drive train is, as you have discovered.

Tony

[TSR6]

I do not have a public aim name anymore. It's message hell when i get online even after i deleted everyone i don't know "in person."

I am in the CarAction chatroom whenever im not too busy. I'm in it now, and i will probably be logged in untill about 10:00CST.

As far as steering goes, Some people glue washers to the spindle to remove that little bit of steering. It usually removes what causes the chatter if i remember right. I do not have washers on my car..

-Troy

[JKA]

TSR6.... Thanks so much for the Droop lesson.

This was the last way I was told to measure it... and I wasn't fond simply because I couldn't understand how another local racers droop measurement was acheivable. Obviously he's measuring inaccurately.... or something different altogether.

Thanks again.

[TSR6]

Heh, Thats the way to do it with the included losi guage.

There are several ways to measure droop, thats just the way i do it. :)

-Troy

[AETC3]

so anyone have aim and can help me ? I do need some SERIOUS info on my car, thanks

[TSR6]

Just post it here! You will get more help here than from one person on AIM.

If you need "live" help, try the Caraction chatroom at http://chat.rccaraction.com I'm there fairly often..

-Troy

[AKS]

Anyone know where to get this bumper?

http://members.cox.net/aks/mdowcar2002.jpe

[TSR6]

If i remember right, that was a custom project from Mark Dawson.

-Troy

[mcgyver79]

Just bought the LRP Quantum competition ESC last weekend for my XXX-S, But I didnt get the Worlds kit. I noticed that all you really get is 2 capacitors and a heatsink, for 29.00.

If I could figure out which size capacitor to use, I could save about 25.00.

Anyone know the size of the Large capacitor???

Thanks

[fast-rc]

when i run my car there is alot of under steer now. If i make the smallest turn it would just spin out. The only thing i changed was the shock postion and put both of them on the inner hole closest to the middle of shcok tower. My front droop is also more than the rear. Would that be the problem?

[TSR6]

Ok, just to get this straight:

Understeer = push. The front wheels are not gripping, therfor the car is understeering... or not turning well.

Oversteer = Loose. The rear wheels are not gripping, and the tail wants to come around.

If you made some changes, try undoing the changes, run about 5-6 laps on a battery pack. If it helped a little bit, go one step further, and change something else on the car, and then run another 5-6 laps, or untill the pack dumps.

-Troy

[fast-rc]

when the car goes into a turn it losses traction and spins outs.

The weird thing is I had this setting in my car before and it did fine. All the sudden it's been starting to do this.

[TSR6]

If you changed nothing, and it just started by itself.

[list=a]
Did the track conditions change?
Is something bent and binding?
Are your tires worn?
[/list=a]

just some ideas..

[xxxkat]

Just bought a used xxxs,Im so stoked,wanted to get one for a while(had bought a used tc-3)The car is so clean,the guy had raced it one time.It has everything,came with titanium hinge pins & turnbuckles,one-way,graphite kit(new).28 threaded shocks(front)&threaded rear shocks,aluminum cvd front & rear,mf motor mount clamp & front pivot support.And enough parts to build another car,all for $150.I was not looking to buy a car(I had just bought a tc-3 last week)But for the price I could not pass it up.Good deal? or am I high. :D

[TSR6]

Originally posted by xxxkat
I could not pass it up.Good deal? or am I high. :D

Both?

-Troy:cool:

[xxxkat]

Well one of them anyway.

[Losiracer]

under steer means more steer than a complet cirlce over means lthat the cars gets bigger and bigger cirlcles and the noise comes for the cvds going to far out and it really is caused form the ackward steering gyometry that is really to far when fully extended for normal purposes, turn the end point adjustment down one your controller. and the only part i have really replaces fromed stock to other is the front hubs and hub carriers. they kept braking so i chnaged them to aluminum ones. and for some reason the from arms kept braking . (the akluminum.) so i changed those ones to graphite and i havet broke one in 3 months.

[TSR6]

more than likely.. changing to aluminum carriers would stress the arms more.

When you add aluminum, it only bends, and or stresses other areas of the car.

-Troy

[TSR6]

more than likely.. changing to aluminum carriers would stress the arms more.

When you add aluminum, it only bends, and or stresses other areas of the car.

-Troy

[JR in NC]

Does anyone know if there is an aftermarket company that makes a complete set of titanium screws for the "ORIGINAL" XXX-S kit, if so please any info would be helpful.
Anyone else out there pis--d with LOSI over there new "GRAPHITE" kit and it's price. After the way they gouged us with graphite replacement parts.


JR in NC

[JR in NC]

Does anyone know if there is an aftermarket company that makes a complete set of titanium screws for the "ORIGINAL" XXX-S kit, if so please any info would be helpful.
Anyone else out there pis--d with LOSI over there new "GRAPHITE" kit and it's price. After the way they gouged us with graphite replacement parts.


JR in NC

[TSR6]

I'm fine with the new car. I even have a spare graphite chassis. I'm not worried about it. The new chassis isnt anything that foam and a dremel cannot do.

The new chassis is milled slightly different. You can change your stock chassis around with a dremel. One change was the "TL" logo under the ESC. You really cant remove that though... No place for the servo tape on the ESC to grab.

The new arms, Im not worried about as ill replace them when i break my stock ones, If that ever happens. Both side have a huge grove in them from when i poped ball cups off, but they stil have not broken. :D

The battery slot supports, I just glued a piece of foam in between the chassis "ridge" and the battery slot to keep the battery from moving around. It really wasnt a problem anyways, for me at least.

Screw kits: www.kthobbies.com Also, the "new" X-S pre-orders.

The screw kit would be the same between the two cars, FYI. They only changed the arms, thickend castor blocks, and a couple other small changes...

[PHANTOM-RACING]

has anyone run the old and new graphite xxx-s. is there any difference in performance? is the changes only to the chassis, arms and castor blocks ? currently I have the old xxx-s...don't know if i should buy a new kit or just upgrade the one that i have!


mark

[EricF]

Anyone else out there pis--d with LOSI over there new "GRAPHITE" kit and it's price. After the way they gouged us with graphite replacement parts.

WOW:rolleyes:
why would anyone be pis--d aoubt the new 'graphite' kit... did someone drag you the the store and make you buy the "graphite replacement parts"

most likely not... besides everyone who has been in this hobby knows that eventually wheather it's a year or 2 years, that there will be upgrades to every new car... it's kind of a industry standard.

just my opinion...
E

[TSR6]

Originally posted by PHANTOM-RACING
has anyone run the old and new graphite xxx-s. is there any difference in performance? is the changes only to the chassis, arms and castor blocks ? currently I have the old xxx-s...don't know if i should buy a new kit or just upgrade the one that i have!


mark

The Graphite Plus is not availible yet.

-Troy

[xxxkat]

I would say upgrade,I would buy the graphite kit,Anyone know how much the new graphite plus kit is going to cost.

[TSR6]

$260 i think. Check the link i posted a couple posts ago.

-T

[Dj Kumara]

What's a dremel?

[xxxkat]

Whats a joey?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Dj Kumara
What's a dremel?

A dremel is a small hand held rotary tool. Main uses are cutoff wheels, sanding drums, ect.

[JKA]

On the XXX-S the Droop Screws are threaded through the back portion of the Front Bumper. This Front Bumper is somewhat flexible which is fine for a bumper... but this allows flex around the area housing the Droop screws. I run a droop of 6mm front and back and have noticed that when doing so the front bumper portion with the droop screws "bends" down slightly from the pressure. WHY did they do this? Doesn't that cause slightly irregular droop and/ or suspension reaction near full extension? Is there something better (more rigid) that can be used?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by JKA
On the XXX-S the Droop Screws are threaded through the back portion of the Front Bumper. This Front Bumper is somewhat flexible which is fine for a bumper... but this allows flex around the area housing the Droop screws. I run a droop of 6mm front and back and have noticed that when doing so the front bumper portion with the droop screws "bends" down slightly from the pressure. WHY did they do this? Doesn't that cause slightly irregular droop and/ or suspension reaction near full extension? Is there something better (more rigid) that can be used?

They have new bumpers coming out, as part of the Graphite Plus release.

The new bumpers are stiffer material, so droop isnt as flexy. :)

-Troy

[JKA]

Excellent.

[tones]

it takes a little bit of fiddling to work out what limiting results in how much droop.. but you could also try internal limiters.

[Losiracer]

i knew that aluminum would break other parts, no offense.
AND as for the droop i checked mine after a hard crash and it was the same. and it was hard since i broke both a arms. this was after i took off the bumper and put it back on. and as for the "new xxx-s" i ahve never heard of anyhting being changed. so who ever told you guys that was dumb, and i have my direct links to losi and they said they didnt change any thing. and as for the graphite plus vs a convertion kit, no differentc cept you have to take every thing off you old car. or just buy the pars nesssary to biuld one. which i think the conversion kit plus other stuff might be cheaper i will have to add the costs up tommorow. LAter

[fast-rc]

I found some TreadZ foam tires 32 shore 30mm. Will these fit on a xxx-s. 30mm seems kinda of big. Also how hard is 32 shore? Would it work for (asphalt) oval?

[tones]

from rctech:

Originally posted by T. Hodge
futureal-I just want to clarify some of your details on the graphite car kit.

-chassis-The car uses the same chassis. We are changing the way it is milled out. Right now it is about 1/2 oz lighter than the original lightened chassis.

-Rear arms and hubs-The arms have a another hinge pin hole located .150" in from the outside hole. Then we have new hubs that are offset .150" wider. This is the rear end we ran on carpet with foam tires and worked well. We have also found it works well on apsphalt and rubber tires.

caster blocks-Yes they will work on the existing front arms.

Here are a few other details on the graphite XXX-S
-Full graphite components
-New stiffer foam bumpers
-New stiffer plastic bumpers for the front and rear. This helps relieve the flexing problems with the droop screws.
-Ball bearing steering
-New front bumper brace that does not affect the front sway bar.
-Team Losi 24mm mesh wheels
-New belt which is yellow
-New rear shock tower. This shock tower is the same as the exisiting shock tower. The only change is that is has 3 more optional lowered holes for the camber link.
-High and low roll center blocks.
-Aluminum CVD's with aluminum 8/32 low profile wheel nuts
-Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles
-Team Losi Alfa Romeo Body with high downforce wing. This body/wing is awesome!!

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Losiracer
i knew that aluminum would break other parts, no offense.
AND as for the droop i checked mine after a hard crash and it was the same. and it was hard since i broke both a arms. this was after i took off the bumper and put it back on. and as for the "new xxx-s" i ahve never heard of anyhting being changed. so who ever told you guys that was dumb, and i have my direct links to losi and they said they didnt change any thing. and as for the graphite plus vs a convertion kit, no differentc cept you have to take every thing off you old car. or just buy the pars nesssary to biuld one. which i think the conversion kit plus other stuff might be cheaper i will have to add the costs up tommorow. LAter

I would love to meet your links to Losi. Even the guys who sweep the floor truely ARE important.

It's not nice of you to call Gil Jr., Todd, and other guys dumb, as that is where i got my information from. I talked to Gil in Chicago, and have seen Todd's post on RCTech.net.

One thing that was left off that post you read, Is the battery slots now have a little block on each edge, to keep the batteries from sliding out of the battery slots in a bad wreck.

It's a known fact that the droop settings change as the bumper flexes. The stock bumber DOES flex, but i honestly don't feel it is enough for me to worry about.

-Troy

[spenzalii]

Is the battery slots now have a little block on each edge, to keep the batteries from sliding out of the battery slots in a bad wreck.

That's great. Every time something hits me, my stick pack goes flying. I got T'boned once and the pak went halfway across the parking lot. How much is the chasis retailing for, and when is it due?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by spenzalii
That's great. Every time something hits me, my stick pack goes flying. I got T'boned once and the pak went halfway across the parking lot. How much is the chasis retailing for, and when is it due?

I would assume it would be the same price as the standard graphite chassis.

I've been hearing late Nov. or Dec. for arrival dates of the new stuff, but I'm not sure.

You do not need a new chassis, I just Shoe-Goo'ed a foam block between the battery and the chassis wall. The block i used, and cut a piece off of, is similar to what AE uses in the offroad trucks.

[JKA]

When I questioned the bumper my only problems were that the portion of the bumper housing the droop screws flexes downward when you set the droop relatively high (mine is 6mm). This causes that portion of the bumper to be your true ride height in the front as that portion will bottom out before the chassis. My droop settings were not changing, it was just screwing with my ride height.

I see how this would not effect many other racers... the only reason it effects me is because we have a high bite smooth asphalt track with the exception of one spot that has a little dip. As I get my car dailed in for the track I found that that portion of my bumper was scraping across that bump. No other portion of the chassis was so I thought a new, more rigid, bumper would be nice for me.

Thanks for the info TSR6.

[TSR6]

It doesnt effect me much, as i only run around 2-3 in the front, and 4-5 in the rear.

I can understand the problem, as i have seen if flex while I was messing with stuff..

-Troy

[JKA]

Are the new parts available? I've seen them at some hobby shop websites, but all indicate out of stock.

If I missed this answer somewhere above then everyone feel free to idiot-size your reply... and sorry. :(

[Losiracer]

the point wasnt to call them dumb but i emailed some gys from losi and they said nothing in the changes, cept the bumpers being harder which shoiuld be changing the specs to parts that could be boughten like the caster blocks isnt a really a change. Sorry if it made you tell them they are dumb, that wasnt what i was in tending.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by JKA
Are the new parts available? I've seen them at some hobby shop websites, but all indicate out of stock.

If I missed this answer somewhere above then everyone feel free to idiot-size your reply... and sorry. :(

JKA - My best be is that they are already hitting the market with the new stuff, but some shops may not get the new iteams untill the old arms, ect sell out.

Losi - Thickening of the castor blocks is a change, a good change at that. :)

-Troy

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

what's the diffrence between rtr XXXS and the kit?
no stiffzel?
the chassis on the RTR looks a little diffrent (has cut outs)

[xxxkat]

I would save my money and get the new graphite xxxs,or buy a nice used one,You never know it might be nice.(I bought a xxxnt sport)And I replaced everthing and I mean everthing!I should have just bought a adam drake nt and been done with it.Live & learn. :D

[TSR6]

Originally posted by xxxkat
And I replaced everthing and I mean everthing!I should have just bought a adam drake nt and been done with it.Live & learn. :D

I'm glad i went the route I did. Just me personally.. :)

-Troy

[SirSpeedy]

Wow......

TSR6 with the Francis-style Q&A.....lol

About the new chassis -

I was at my LHS today, and they were unpacking an order of Losi stuff. They recieved to chassis, and they were both the new ones....revised batt slots, new post locations for the 4wheel, and the revised milling procedure.

I can say that just handling it in the bag, it is significantly lighter also!

My foam tire car weights in at 49oz without any weight.

[xxxkat]

Thats cool your hobby shop has losi parts,Every time I go to my LHS I have to dig through a box,The bummer is most of the parts in the box I ORDERED.(the ones where they ordered the wrong part.)But I put up with it because they give me a HUGE discount on radios,speed controlers,etc.But when you guys get them,post some photos so I could at least look at them before I order them.Thanks.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by xxxkat
Thats cool your hobby shop has losi parts,Every time I go to my LHS I have to dig through a box,The bummer is most of the parts in the box I ORDERED.(the ones where they ordered the wrong part.)But I put up with it because they give me a HUGE discount on radios,speed controlers,etc.But when you guys get them,post some photos so I could at least look at them before I order them.Thanks.

xxxkat - If you need a good source of Losi X-S parts, try www.kthobbies.com

I race with Kraig, he's always supported out outdoor tracks, and runs a Losi himself.

SS - heh.. ;)

[spenzalii]

What are the widest tires I can put on the XXX-S without having to modify the rear hub carrier? I figure when I add the brushless, I'll need all the contact patch I can get.

[xxxkat]

KILLER PRICES,Thanks TSR6,Where are they located at.

[JKA]

Anyone know if Losi plans on developing a Nitro TC?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by xxxkat
KILLER PRICES,Thanks TSR6,Where are they located at.

xxxkat - Sun Prairie, Wi. Smack dab in the center of Wi basicly.. Tell them TSR6 sent ya. ;)

-Troy

[fast-rc]

hey on my xxx-s when ever i turn it makes a wierd loud noise ( like clicking). But when i go straight it's perfect. Are my cvds hitting the limit? How can I fix this problem?

One more Q. I was think about doing the low center roll mod. what do u have to dremel off?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by fast-rc
hey on my xxx-s when ever i turn it makes a wierd loud noise ( like clicking). But when i go straight it's perfect. Are my cvds hitting the limit? How can I fix this problem?

One more Q. I was think about doing the low center roll mod. what do u have to dremel off?

Yeah, thats just the CVD's. Most guys either set EPA so they dont chatter, or glue a washer to the inside of the spindle to remove some throw.

Low Roll Center: IF you spend the ~$30 and go with the Trinity or Speedtech set, you only need to dremel the bumper, cut the droops screws ( i cut the rears, installed them in the front, and just moved the front droop screws to the rear. ), dremel the little gusset on the chassis in the front, and make sure everything clears right.

If you cut down the stock blocks, you need to trim .150"

[roberttatefan]

My friend is offering me a used xxx-s, graphite conversion, and some misc. hop ups, no one way, and stock steel turn buckles, i've never driven the car, but plan to race in stock rubber with it.... the price is $165, what do you all HONESTLY think, email me at roberttatefan@hotmail.com and also, im debating between this and the FC TC3, wheres the deal at, looking long term, and I'm fairly experienced, just never driven either, and am shopping only by what people are telling me, so make it good

[TSR6]

That sounds about right. I've been seeing full graphites, oneway, Ti turnbuckles, plus spares selling for ~$200.

[JR in NC]

Do these new graphite parts include the redesigned parts for the rear shock mounts and rear hubs, if so where can I find these parts and how can you tell the difference between the old and the new,without a part # or picture. Any ideas when or if Losi is going to post pictures or schematics for the new rear design.

I probably missed the low roll center discussion,but what are the advantages and disadvantages to making this change. If they are important why hasn't Losi adressed this matter with another part ?

JR in NC

[fast-rc]

What are you guys gearing in your xxx-s?

[TSR6]

JR - go back a couple pages... I know the roll center thing was discussed about 2 pages back, if i remember right.

New parts: The new rear arms will have two holes for the hinge pin on the outers. The new rear hubs, the material around the bearing is more offset compared to the original. It puts it to standard wide when using the new hole on the arm. To use the other hole, you need the original rear carriers, from the way i understood it.

fast-rc - Im using 7.5 which is a 128, and a 31 if i remember right. It will change on track size, and motors... so nobody here can answer that unless they accually race with you.

-Troy

[fast-rc]

here's a better question, how can I figure out the gear ratio or final gear ratio which everone you're suppose to use( in 48 and 64 pitch if not the same). Is the lower the number the faster it is? What the max ratio on a stock motor without blowing it up?( i run sedan oval so top speed is nice to have)

[TSR6]

Originally posted by fast-rc
here's a better question, how can I figure out the gear ratio or final gear ratio which everone you're suppose to use( in 48 and 64 pitch if not the same). Is the lower the number the faster it is? What the max ratio on a stock motor without blowing it up?( i run sedan oval so top speed is nice to have)

Spur / Pinion * 1.83
gotta head to the track, ill post more tonight

[r/c junkie 287]

what hopups should i get doen to my xxx-s besides electronics causei got them handled so far i just put on the graphite conversion and ti turnbuckled and allumnium cvds and threaded shock bodies what else shoudl i put on here

[mcgyver79]

I just raced today, only my third day to race, and did pretty good. Finished as high as second. But my car has this annoying characteristic, that cost me a lot of lap time.

Today, in each race, I kept spinning out as I was exiting a corner, under power. But it would just suddenly spin, doing about a 420 degree spin so fast that there would be nothing I could do about it. I was spinning an average of 7-10 times a race, which of course cost me a lot of time. And I wasnt hitting anything either.

I tried easing on the throttle slower, and that helped, but was still squirrelly. I also tried decreasing my Punch (throttle) setting on my LRP Quantum comp ESC. But I still had many problems. I was also running new tires, which were just right for the track temps(as measured with a raytek).

Thinking of re-checking my suspension setup, though I dont have a hudy, so I use a protractor for camber & just eye the toe.

Also going to try turning down punch control some more.

What about under or overdriving one end? Or lighter springs on the motor for more RPM/less torque? Or higher pinion gear, same reason?

Any suggestions welcome

Here is my car setup:
P2K2 Pro motor, red/green springs, stock brushes.
Team orion JB wheels and tires
LRP ESC
JR Propo R1 PCM radio and receiver
Futaba s9404 servo
Titanium turnbuckles
Graphite hub carriers front/rear 0 degrees
Drive belt slightly loose

Thanks for all your help

[TSR6]

carpet or asphult? you could always go with a softer spring in the rear harder in the front. ( red is soft if i remember right... )

i run blue / blue on mine

[JKA]

Although I think the springs you were referring to were the motor springs I still agree with TSR6... soften the suspension damping on the rear (softer shock springs) and/or stiffen the front.

Another thing to think about.... if it is only happening on certain turns (ie Right handers only or left handers only) then it may be a weight transfer issue. Your car may be tweaked to one side or the other. Find someone with a setup board or some scales and balance the car left to right.

[minime]

It might be worth checking the droop is identical on both sides at the front and back.

I run with 4 at the back and 2 at the front, on ashfalt.

Tony

[xxxkat]

Use sorex or takeoffs,I had the same problem with orion tires,I now only run sorex tires,they work for me.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by JKA
Although I think the springs you were referring to were the motor springs I still agree with TSR6... soften the suspension damping on the rear (softer shock springs) and/or stiffen the front.

Another thing to think about.... if it is only happening on certain turns (ie Right handers only or left handers only) then it may be a weight transfer issue. Your car may be tweaked to one side or the other. Find someone with a setup board or some scales and balance the car left to right.

haha! Duuuhhhhh!!!! I posted at "12:29 AM" but yeah... I was thinking... How can you drive it with red and green????

-Troy

[fast-rc]

I can't seem to get my xxx-s to go straight, I've tried resetting the servo, redoing the servo saver, adjusting the turnbuckles?

I'm lost, could it be my tires( some dont have insterts and others do)??

Since I'm on the subject of tires- Sorex or Take Off????

[minime]

It could be tyres, why don't some have inserts? they should be identical tyres and inserts (maybe a bit different for ovals) and all should be identical diameter that will affect how straight the car goes.

Ride height is important as well, should be identical on both ends of the car (ie: front left and right should be identical and rear left and right should also be identical)

Also you could try adding a little toe-in 1/2 degree would be enough and should help the car track straight providing every thing else is setup right.

hope it helps

Tony

PS: tyres depends on the surface, we run on ashfalt out door tracks and I have had good experiences with TakeOff 27's in winter here, for colder temps or running at night Take Off 22's or Sorex 24's are really good.

[fast-rc]

Yea ,because I was running the stock xxx-s tires till those went out in like a week. Then my friend let me borrow some of his slicks and one of them some how tore apart on the track. SO now im running 2 slicks in the back and two treads ( no insert tires in front).

I need a new set so im planning on getting take off CS27 ( maybe the premounted ones because I dont want to mess anything up ) over the Sorex just because I can get Take Offs for a better price.

[TSR6]

The Preglued tires are hard to beat price wise. We have a large race coming up in Jan that will use CS-27's as handout tires. Im going to run those from now untill then. I hear $25, not sure if its true, but thats unbeatable with sorex.

-Troy

[fast-rc]

$25 where at? The best I could find is $31. If you guys find anywhere cheaper than this let me know?

[minime]

Wow that's a damn fine price for 4 pre glued tyres and wheels, excellent. The only think is you don't get an option on the wheels you run but otherwise very nice.

The cs27's seem to have a big temperature range as well, if you use tyre warmer they will work at 2-4 deg C (~35 deg F) and they seem to be quite good all the way up to around 25 deg C (around 55 def F maybe).

They also seem to last quite well for stock racing.


Tony

[TSR6]

Originally posted by fast-rc
$25 where at? The best I could find is $31. If you guys find anywhere cheaper than this let me know?

Thats just what i was told. A guy i race with was testing the tires last week..

Thats why i said "not sure if its true" on the pricing....

[minime]

On the TeamLosi (http://www.teamlosi.com) website they have put on a tutorial on setting droop, ride height and adjusting tweak for the XXX-S very nicely detailed with pictures and explanations.

Tony

[TSR6]

Originally posted by minime
On the TeamLosi (http://www.teamlosi.com) website they have put on a tutorial on setting droop, ride height and adjusting tweak for the XXX-S very nicely detailed with pictures and explanations.

Tony

Yepper, I saw that the other day.. I wonder if my pic's sparted that...heh..

-T

[minime]

Yes could be ;) , droop is one thing that isn't explained real clearly in the manual (at least to me it wasn't until I observed a someone doing it at the track).

Tony

[TSR6]

Originally posted by minime
Yes could be ;) , droop is one thing that isn't explained real clearly in the manual (at least to me it wasn't until I observed a someone doing it at the track).

Tony

Agreed. The way i originally measured it would add about 1 droop to the front of the car. ;) Ooops!

-Troy

[minime]

Does anybody have any good setups for foam tyres on fairly smooth ashfalt.

I assume stiffer all round, any thing else?

Tony

[TSR6]

I do not run foam...but, I would think stiffer springs, swaybar front and rear, thicker oil should just about do it.

-Troy

[JR in NC]

TSR6,
What size swaybar do you run front and rear. If you don't run foams, what are you running Jaco slicks or Takeoffs and what kind of surface are you running on. Here in NC on asphalt, surface temps almost require that we run foams for traction. It will be interesting in our fall series when temps come down as to what direction we go to find traction.
Do you have any idea when Losi will make available the new rear hubs and shock towers with the multiple shock adjustments.
Congrats if you were the one to get Losi to address the droop and ride height question. They had been ducking that one for awhile. Now how about why the CVD's aren't parallel to the chassis like they were supposed to be.

[minime]

Thanks Troy, I'll try the sway bars, I have never run the car with sway bars before.

JR what temperatures are you talking about for the track? I run Sorex 24's when the the track temperature is around 37 deg F on outdoor ashfalt track and they stick like glue for the whole race, actually a little too much grip if anything.

Also TakeOff CS27's have been good for me with track temperatures between 50F to 65 F. Need to try Sorex 32's or 28's and see if they are as good in that range.

Tony

[JR in NC]

Up until about three weeks ago, track temps were 105F and higher one race day in August we had track temps of 155F yes it was hotter than h*** the humidity was almost as high as the outside temps (96F) The foams were even chunking, even blue dot and green dot foams.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by JR in NC
TSR6,
What size swaybar do you run front and rear. If you don't run foams, what are you running Jaco slicks or Takeoffs and what kind of surface are you running on. Here in NC on asphalt, surface temps almost require that we run foams for traction. It will be interesting in our fall series when temps come down as to what direction we go to find traction.
Do you have any idea when Losi will make available the new rear hubs and shock towers with the multiple shock adjustments.
Congrats if you were the one to get Losi to address the droop and ride height question. They had been ducking that one for awhile. Now how about why the CVD's aren't parallel to the chassis like they were supposed to be.

I run the thickest Losi bar in the front, no bar in the rear.

I run Sorex 28's on carpet, and 36's on asphault ( season is over for the year ). I will be switching to CS-27's on my next tire purchase, as that is the hand-out tire this winter for the Novak Race ( Trackside.com ).

I have no clue on the new parts. I have heard Nov. but I have also been hearing stuff about "new parts" slowly trickeling into the LHS's.. So i have no definate answer here.

I do not know if i was the one, but I did post 2 similar images a month or so before they posted that. :D It was something that confuesed several people, including me when i first had the car...

I do not remember the reason for non-parrallel CVD's off the top of my head..

-T

[JKA]

If you are running foams I would suggest paying the extra cash and going with the more expensive (exotic/ natural rubber) foams. Example: The TRC Blues are about a 40 shore tire as are the TRC Purples(Nat Rub). I purchased a set of each. Sure enough the durometer reading on each is nearly equal, but the on track performance is not. The purple are much more "sticky" if you will.

With the right setup the blues feel good... the purples feel great. Plus I use those when the track temp is around 100F. I run TRC magentas for track temps lower... say 75-100F.

Last race I attended I run the magentas as it was nice out and the track temp was about 80. However by the mains the sun had came out and the track temps were rising. I opted against changing to the more firm Purples and paid the price as the magentas became too hot and the car lost that "edge" about 3.5 minutes in.

Oh yeah... it might be helpful to know the track surface I most often run these on is a sealed asphalt surface... smooth. Some guys still run rubber tires... the best results were cs27s with HPI yellow inserts. I tried them and though they were not bad... the natural rubber foams were better.

[LouisB]

JKA, My club races on parking lot tracks (there are 5 venues and it rotates every week) and rubber tires are much more popular, even though we can use foams. The foams just don't seem to have the required grip on our cold, unprepared tracks. If people do use foams then it's pinks all round (rubber tires still have more grip) but I was wondering if there were some foams (26mm trued and glued) that would be appropriate. Do you know of any, preferably exotic/natural rubber foams, that I could use? I have one set of Gandini Fast tires and I like htem but they don't have enough grip (even when soaked in Zip Grip Free)
Have you seen the new Orion Fresh kicks foams? I may get a set of 30 shore ones when they come out.
Thanks for any help you can give:)

[JKA]

Louis... I'll suggest what I can but I'm by no means an expert. Most of my experience (and reasonable success) has come on the sealed tracks with warm to HOT track temps.

Regardless... TRC (Trinity) makes a Platinum compound that is 25 shore. It claims to be made for asphalt Low-bite conditions and it is a natural rubber compound. After that I would suggest Pinks as you stated some racers have tried.

Anyone else with ideas?

[LouisB]

Thanks JKA, I saw something about platinums a while ago and I thought they could be good but couldn't find where to get them. Do u know where I could buy them trued and glued?:)

[minime]

Louis,

have you checked out Stormer Hobbies (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=TRCTM1052) they seem to have all the TRC foam tyres, make sure you don't buy the donuts I think they are just the foam which you would then have to glue to wheels and true.

Tony

[TSR6]

Originally posted by minime
Louis,

have you checked out Stormer Hobbies (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=TRCTM1052) they seem to have all the TRC foam tyres, make sure you don't buy the donuts I think they are just the foam which you would then have to glue to wheels and true.

Tony

KTHobbies.com also has foamies.

-T

[LouisB]

Thanks TSR6 and minime, I'll have a look around. I could also see if my LHS could order some but the chances of them arriving before 2011 (the year LOL) is very small!

minime, are those tires at stormer for Pro-10? As it says 1/10th scale I presume they are. I can always get a pair, cut them in half and glue them to some wheels:)

[fast-rc]

since we're on the subject of foams, I just pick up some off ebay and ways wondering if your suppose to put some glue on the side wall. I dont know where I heard this from but they said to put CA on the side walls of foams. Will this help the performance like from chunking up or is this a waste of glue?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by fast-rc
since we're on the subject of foams, I just pick up some off ebay and ways wondering if your suppose to put some glue on the side wall. I dont know where I heard this from but they said to put CA on the side walls of foams. Will this help the performance like from chunking up or is this a waste of glue?

Im very doubtful on CA glue. I know some guys use shoegoo for the purpose you mentioned.

I would think CA would be too brittle, and possibly cause chunking?

I've never run foams...

-Troy

[minime]

Originally posted by LouisB

minime, are those tires at stormer for Pro-10? As it says 1/10th scale I presume they are. I can always get a pair, cut them in half and glue them to some wheels:)

Actually I think your right those were the pan car ones, towards te bottom of this list (TRC list (http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/searchpn.pl?stype=cust&pn=TRC&man=TRC)) are the sedan tyres/wheels.

TRCTT1052 are the Platinum Sedan foam tyres.

Tony

[LouisB]

I see them, thanks

[Gutter Ball]

I read through a few pages to see what I could find, and got lazy, so I'll just ask :) The tires that came with my XXX-S were super hard (no idea of the brand) and now they're all torn up. We race on industrial carpet that gets used by an aerobics class, a karate class and a day care. We are only allowed to use suntan lotion as a traction compound. I've been looking at replacement tires and found HPI X radials procompound or Proline road rage supersoft. Is there a better brand or recommendation? I've heard of Take off and Sorex, but nobody else uses those at our track. I have no idea what kind of tire inserts to use, or what the main difference between belted/non belted is other than belted doesn't "balloon" up. Help?

[xxxkat]

I like sorexs,on carpet I would use 28s or 24s with hpi med. inserts.Takeoffs also work very well.Yokomo also makes some good tires,I would try the 139gs or 139g with hpi med inserts,Will they let you run foams?If so look up trc on the net,foams on the carpet are the way to go,come to think of it foams rule on asphalt to.

[TSR6]

GutterBall - What do they run on your track?

I've used Sorex 20, 24, and 28 on carpet. 20 was soft for both tracks, and I may never run 20 again ( depending what the new track is like. ). I have used Sorex 28 at Trackside. I did run 28/24 combo last year, but it scrubs speed.. The 28's free up the car, for me, it made it much easier to drive. I'll now be running CS-27's for the rest of the winter, as they are the handout tire for a race coming up in Jan.

I think i talked about this before... But i bought a set of 27's, preglued yesterday. It ended up being around $34.

-T

[Gutter Ball]

TSR6: The fastest guy is running some kind of HPI radial....and he either won't say or really doesn't know what kind of HPI's they are. Kind of hard to believe that he doesn't know, but oh well.
There's a bit of everything at our track. Lots of no name treadeds and "it came with the car" so it's hard to say.

I think I'll just go with what I can find. The RC guy quit the LHS and the owner doesn't know squat about RC (he's more of a model guy). So I'll probably go with the Road Rage or the X Pattern.

We can run foams, but my XXX-S like to jump walls so I'll chunk them quick :) I think I'll wait until I can drive touring car better before I'll try foams.

[fast-rc]

when your running foams wat kind of stuff do you do to make them faster, have more traction, or last longer? I'm running oval at my LHS and everyone there runs foams so i decided to try em out. So got any secrets or tips that make the foams last longer and not chunk up?

I run semi-rough ashpalt,the ground is prob. around 80 degrees.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Gutter Ball
TSR6: The fastest guy is running some kind of HPI radial....and he either won't say or really doesn't know what kind of HPI's they are. Kind of hard to believe that he doesn't know, but oh well.
There's a bit of everything at our track. Lots of no name treadeds and "it came with the car" so it's hard to say.

I think I'll just go with what I can find. The RC guy quit the LHS and the owner doesn't know squat about RC (he's more of a model guy). So I'll probably go with the Road Rage or the X Pattern.

We can run foams, but my XXX-S like to jump walls so I'll chunk them quick :) I think I'll wait until I can drive touring car better before I'll try foams.

Road Rage or X-pattern? Wow!

Do you know the pattern on the HPI? ... probably the Advans..

But wow.... X-patterns???

LOL, I used to run those with my nitro...

-Troy

[Gutter Ball]

Road Rage or X-pattern? Wow!
LOL, are those bad??? Not a good choice for carpet?? I tried slicks last year, but after a few laps, they would pick up lots of dust or glaze over and I wouldn't get any traction, even with traction compound. I visited the HPIracing site and they said that "a few racers say the Xpattern works good on carpet" or something like that. I dunno...I don't want to buy 5+ sets of tires/rims to try out :)

[fast-rc]

hey i was rebuilding my diff tonight and took it a part. Took a look at the pulley the whole thing was all messed up. You know the slots on the pulley where you insert the small balls. That thing looked like it was all smashed together and :rolleyes: stuff......

So now I'm going to pick up a new set of pulleys at the LHS but would overtightening the diff cause this or what?

[TSR6]

Fast - Was the center melted out of the diff??

That is caused by being too loose. It spins, slips, heats up the balls, and the plastic melts.

The only thing overtightening should do, is remove the diff action.

Gutterball - I'm just amazed. What carpet do you run on? Ozite??

Slicks not working on Ozite would surprise me.. I've never seen anyone run X-patterns. I have seen guys attempt to run V-rage. Talk about lack of traction!!! LOL. If it works for you, then thats great, but im just surprised... :D

[RcLaB1]

just wanted to know if the new RTR XXX-S sport
is the same car as the 220.00 dollar XXX-s Kit, but without
the electronics.......


is there a small difference bwtn the two?

thanks

[JR in NC]

RcLaB1,

It's got a 19turn motor in it that any good stock one will kick it's butt. The electronics won't preform up to your standards, if you want to upgrade your motor you'll probably have to buy new electronics also. The body will be assembly line painted,not unique to you at all. The chassis will also be built assembly line fashion which can cause all sorts of problems(chassis tweak, differentials not being tight, one set of screws being over tightened another not tight enough, no lube in a diff or to much,CVD's put together incorectly or with no grease.) Buy the Graphite Kit put it together,so you know how to maintain and fix it when it breaks, and it will. Then wait six months and have Losi come out with another version. Best thing go to EBay and find someone who's getting rid of their XXX-S and save $50 bucks or so. That way you may get a car that's RTR without having to fix what comes from the factory in China or Mexico.

[fast-rc]

I bet u can find a way better deal on ebay, i've seen some with all graphite, aluminum hop ups, nice esc ( cyclone ), full bearing, set of tire, etc.... for under 300.

[evader32]

Hey guys i just wanted to no if the xxx-s can be upgraded to a rally car. ne ideas if not I will probly buy a tc3 w/rally kit thanx

[Gutter Ball]

Gutterball - I'm just amazed. What carpet do you run on? Ozite??

Slicks not working on Ozite would surprise me.. I've never seen anyone run X-patterns. I have seen guys attempt to run V-rage. Talk about lack of traction!!! LOL. If it works for you, then thats great, but im just surprised... :D

We don't have Ozite...we're saving up for it, but we don't want to drain our bank account. We just run on industrial carpet.

I know the Vrage don't work, I tried those last year too...slip and slide! I have the X pattern and Road rage on order, I'll let ya know how they work in 2 weeks!!

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Gutter Ball
We don't have Ozite...we're saving up for it, but we don't want to drain our bank account. We just run on industrial carpet.


Ok, that may explain it. :D

[racer13]

hello... i have an xxx-s and its been sitting roller on my shelf for 3 months.. i have never drove it yet. i have 3 bodies and 9 pairs of tires, etc for it.. i decided to put my electrics from my xxxt mfe on it.. i put my servo, receiver, motor, battery but still have to solder my esc to it. pretty much all i need is body posts cause the ***** who had it before me cut the posts way short.. so yeah, i was wondering what my ride height, droop, etc should be..

[TSR6]

Originally posted by racer13
hello... i have an xxx-s and its been sitting roller on my shelf for 3 months.. i have never drove it yet. i have 3 bodies and 9 pairs of tires, etc for it.. i decided to put my electrics from my xxxt mfe on it.. i put my servo, receiver, motor, battery but still have to solder my esc to it. pretty much all i need is body posts cause the ***** who had it before me cut the posts way short.. so yeah, i was wondering what my ride height, droop, etc should be..

racer13 - I would suggest starting with one of the setups on www.teamlosi.com Click setup sheets.

-Troy

[ImpulseGTP]

hi everyone, i m going to get a XXX-S for the winter season this year....is the graphite edition out yet?

a guy that raced this car before told me this car breaks easily, is it true? if yes, which spare parts should i keep in my tool box? thx alot.

[racer13]

they say the graphite edition should be out by christmas i think, check www.teamlosi.com i would say a-arms most likely, but im not sure.

[racer13]

i found it on Stormerhobbies for $269.95 but it says on order. so i dont know when it should be out. here's the link

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=LOS0251

[racer13]

Hey guys, i was trying to find the graphite kit for the losi xxx-s, i cant find it on stormer, towers, etc.. the part # LOSA9650 thanks a lot!

[TSR6]

The XXX-S is not fragile. If you break a X-S, a TC3 would probably have broken in the same wreck.

The parts i have broken most frequently are Rear carriers, castor blocks, and I've broken 2-3 rear arms. I hit hard when i hit. :D

Last i knew, Late Nov for the X-S GP.

www.kthobbies.com also has a pre-order option for the XSGP

From what i have heard, they stoped making the old graphite conversion kit, to convert to the updated parts. They new Conversion kit should be availible a little after the XSGP

-T

[ChadK]

rader13-RC-Plus Hobbies has graphite kits availible, check out there web site @ www.rcplus.com.

[ImpulseGTP]

thanks for the input guys, i cant wait to get the graphite edition, but the only problem is parts, not all of the hobby shop carries them.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by ImpulseGTP
thanks for the input guys, i cant wait to get the graphite edition, but the only problem is parts, not all of the hobby shop carries them.

Bummer, If all else fails, KThobbies carries most of the parts, although yes, there is that waiting period as its shipped :(

[Wayne_01]

New_Losi XXX-S guy Question
Wondering if anyone can help:
I purchased a used XXX-S. The car was setup for outside racing and I run it on carpet. I have a 4-Tec that I took the electronics from (Radio, Receiver, Servo and I put in a Novak Explorer II ESC). The XXX-S came with 50wt oil, purple and pink springs. I changed to Black in the front and put the purple in the rear. I am spinning out on the tight carpet track. I have TRC Plaids in the front and Purples in the back for tires. I was told it was my Radio, Receiver, Servo combo that is not giving me the right kind of steering. Does anyone have any opinons on this and if I do need to replace them then what would be a good affordable replacement? P.S no Sway Bars on the XXX-S.

Thanks,
Also.....
Has anyone used or seen the new Nissan 350Z body in action?
How does it handle on the track?

[TSR6]

Assuming it is a Traxxas radio, Servo, yes that would probably be the problem. They just don't have any adjustments, and you probably have steering lock to lock, and very sensitive. :(

I would suggest looking into some type of programable radio.

-Troy

[diesel757]

look into the JR X3 it's only about $150, it's FM, and it's programable. I can't comment in anymore detail because I don't personnally have one, I use a Futaba 3PJS. I bought this radio used for $200 bucks. couldn't beat that. As far as a high end radio goes I would get a M8 as it's controls are easier to use and understand(than the 3PJS). rob

[xxxkat]

As far as radios go,If you want a great radio for a great price get an Airtronics mx-3,you can get one for $92 at sheldons hobbies,Features include dual rate steering,digital trims,epa,arc,sub trim,5 model memory,FM.I would get a JR 550 servo($35)And dont listen to the BS its a great radio,it comes with the same receiver that you get with the M-8.Its alot easier to use than the JR XR-3.Are you spinning out entering or exiting?And on your choice of foams(I think THATS your problem)Purples are made for asphalt,its a medium/hard compound not a good choice for carpet,you should try running greens in the rear,and blues on the front,and if the carpet you are running on is low traction try yellow's on the rear(only the rear)I dont think the problems you are having are with your radio(I would up grade when you can afford to)It looks to me like its the wrong foams to use on carpet.If you know anyone that will let you try a set of foams(ones made for carpet tracks)Then you would know if its your radio or tire choice(foam ones) ;)

[Bigmoo89]

kat , in alot of the team losi setups they are using purple rears and plaid (or purple/orange) fronts , its the same setup i use and it works very well on carpet i also use trinity congo springs on my car

[xxxkat]

Thats what they use on high traction carpet,(thats the set up I use also) it sounded to me like a traction problem,but I am not watching the car at the track,so its a guess at what the problem is. :cool:

[Wayne_01]

Hey guys:

Thanks for all of the help,
TSR6: unfortunatel it is a Traxxas Radio, Receiver and servo...

Diesel757: Is the JRX2 any good? My LHS has it for $99 with the servo receiver, battery holder...

Bigmoo89: How does the Airtronics mx-3 compare to the JRX2?

Bigmoo89 and xxxkat: A lot of users have tried other compounds on the track and non are successful (SPINOUT CITY) that is why they use the plaid and purple I believe someone tried (crc) tires not sure of the name but they said it worked for them...

[xxxkat]

Wayne 01 The Airtronics mx-3 is way way better radio than a jr x2.The Airtronics is FM, the JR is AM.The Airtronics comes with a $70 receiver and its alot smaller than the JRs receiver,(I think thats imporant in touring cars) Its alot easier to program the mx3 than the JR,it has a 5 model memory,the JR has 2.The mx3 also has a third channel,the JR only has 2.The MX3 also has arc(you can change the speed of your servos, in relation to the wheel control of the radio)I own 2 JR radios an xr2 & xr3,I also own a mx3, the Airtronics MX3 is a better radio,in fact if you buy a mx3 and dont like it I will trade you my JRX 3 STRAIGHT ACROSS.a $92 radio for a $170 radio.:D

[adim_x]

do any of you guys know if anyone other than losi makes a front one way for this car? thanks

[TSR6]

Originally posted by adim_x
do any of you guys know if anyone other than losi makes a front one way for this car? thanks

Someone in Japan makes one.. It's the same company that makes the blue parts, but i don't know the name :(

[Bigmoo89]

i would definalty go for the mx-3 looks like a nice radio for a great price , and although the jr are alright they are kind of cheap. both me and my brother had the steering wheels break on our jrx2 i saved mine with a little CA my brother just threw his away.

and i found the purple compound tires to be way stickier than the greens and blues... my car would not hook up at all with greens

[Wayne_01]

Thanks for all of your help guys

It looks like I will do some price checking on the Airtronics MX-3, should I still change the servo? Most likely yes right?
I will stay with the plaid (front) and purple (rear) setup on tires because it seems like it is the only ones that work at our track.

Does anyone know of any tracks on Long Island, NY?
I found some in Brooklyn, but don't know of any on the Island..
only because I will probably be moving back soon...

Thanks Again....

[Shawn_S]

Hello All!

I have a XXX-S and wanted to know what you guys think of my car, and what I should do to it.

Current mods

Full Graphite
Matt Francis Hop ups
Lightweight wheel hubs
alum shock mounts
wheel nuts
motor plate (I have this now)
motor hold-down
About 20 body clips

Lunsford Ti Turnbuckles
Front one-way
Front Swaybar
Hard coated shocks
Blue springs
Blue adjustment collars
BRP front bumper
Losi lexan bumper brace
Fantom Killer Voltz 2400mah cells
Jaco Nitro Shoes Foams (new never used)
Full Stainless Steel Screw Set
Fantom Modified 7-turn Trinity P-94


I need an ESC. Is the GM V12XC worth it or should I put the money into the car?

Thanks Shawn

Pics: (Note: I do not have those elecs.)

[fast-rc]

Very nice car Shawn. I heard that the GM V12XC is a very GOOD esc if not the best.

I was wondering if there's a carbon fiber chassis for the xxx-s. I know it would be pretty hard to make but it would be SO cool and it will make the car much lighter.

[xxxkat]

As far as "light" goes at a roar or norrca race the graphite xxxs is under the weight min. now,on the motor hold down clamp I think the one from dynamite is better as is most of their parts for the xxxs.

[fast-rc]

I want to see a xxx-s w/ carbon fiber chassis & all aluminum parts. This will weigh it down;) .

[TSR6]

The original prototype was carbon fiber.

The reason being, it is almost imposible to mold a chassis for a prototype car, and molds are not made untill the chassis is final. Molds are expensive.

[diesel757]

what differences are there between the new graphite plus kit and the standard kit. (beside it's made from graphite)hopefully I will be getting my XXX-S ready for racing this winter. also what spur/pinion would be good to start with for a tight carpet track. I will be running foams and stock motor. also how does low roll centers effect the car.

thankxxx-s :D
rob

[TSR6]

Originally posted by diesel757
what differences are there between the new graphite plus kit and the standard kit. (beside it's made from graphite)hopefully I will be getting my XXX-S ready for racing this winter. also what spur/pinion would be good to start with for a tight carpet track. I will be running foams and stock motor. also how does low roll centers effect the car.

thankxxx-s :D
rob

chassis - The car uses the same chassis. They are changing the way it is milled out. Right now it is about 1/2 oz lighter than the original lightened chassis.

Rear arms and hubs The arms have a another hinge pin hole located .150" in from the outside hole. Then the new hubs that are offset .150" wider.


Full graphite
stiffer foam bumpers
stiffer plastic bumpers for the front and rear. This removes some of the "droop flex"
Ball bearing steering
New front bumper brace
Yellow Belt
New rear shock tower. The only change is that is has 3 more lowered holes for the camber link.
High and low roll center blocks.
Aluminum CVD's with aluminum 8/32 low profile wheel nuts
Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles
Team Losi Alfa Romeo Body

[JKA]

Was that prototype a single belt drive train? I assume it was... since that was the MAIN hoopla to begin with. Just looks very different... not like a single belt. Cool though!

[TSR6]

Originally posted by JKA
Was that prototype a single belt drive train? I assume it was... since that was the MAIN hoopla to begin with. Just looks very different... not like a single belt. Cool though!

I'm pretty sure it is the single belt. I did not see the car in person. :( I found the pictures online a while ago.

[spenzalii]

I can't quite remember if this was asked here b4, but with the introduction of the XXX-4, a different path may be available: what would it take to convert the XXXS into a rally car? And which platform would be a better starting point, the car or the buggy? It would make much better sense than my old RS4 rally I'd think

[fast-rc]

I would think u need to change the a-arms, shocks, cvds(maybe). it would be much easy to do it with a buggy since the xxx-s is for on road and the buggy is already for off road w/ the shocks and etc... so ur half way there.

Hey I got a Q. I have a xxx-s with graphite and thats about it. Do you think its worth it to sell my xxx-s with some junky electronics I have and buy the graphite plus. The new car has some stuff I was planning to get like the ti turnbuckles, bearings for steering, high/low roll, the aluminum cvds r nice too. My plan is either to get that or get hop ups seperatley like from dynamite, matt francis, etc... Which idea is better?

[ChadK]

Fast-If you can sell your current XXX-S for a good price so that the differencs $ wise is little I say get the new car, new stuff always has less slop and seems to run better, might as well run a new chassis.

[fast-rc]

Yea that was what I was think too, because my chassis is kinda:D scratched up (let my cousin TRY to drive my car). Cause here's what I want to do with my car-

Ti turnbuckles
Bearing (steering)
Aluminum hex
high/low roll mod
new bumber
Aluminum hubs

Thats it.... If I sell my xxx-s rtr with traxxas tx&rx and speed gem 15quad for near 300 that would be awesome.

[Goodwrench29]

Ok, I wasn't to sure where to post this, but being that I run a Losi XXX-S I figured I'd post it here. Has anyone tried the TRC Lime compound yet for fronts? I am currently using Plaid but I am thinking about the switch.

[Gutter Ball]

A fellow racer suggested I run a front sway bar on my XXX-S. However, I can't find one for it. The only ones I can find are for the Street Weapon. Can I use any touring car sway bars?

[JR in NC]

www.stormerhobbies.com or www.kthobbies.com both carry the front and rear sway bar kits. Last time I looked Stormer had them in stock. They have really helped the car stay connected to the track in those tight 180's. Horizon may have them but lately every order that comes from them has been assbackwards. Good Luck!!



JR in NC

[TSR6]

Give Kraig @ KTHobbies a call. The website shows the Fronts on order, so he probably doesnt have em :(

He's a super nice guy..

-Troy

[Gutter Ball]

Cool, thanks for the link to KT. Guess I'll have to wait for the sway bars. I put a heavier oil and spring in the front, hopefully that'll help for now :)

[kcobra]

Will the XXX-S take any standard size servo or do you have to stick with smaller ones? I am thinking about buying an Airtronics 359 servo for the XXX-S I will be buying this weekend. Will this work? I know it is overkill, but I want to use the servo for next season's 1/8th scale offroad.

Also, will a Tekin G12c-III fit in a XXX-S?

[Gutter Ball]

Any standard servo works and I have the same ESC in my XXX-S and it fits nicely.

[microrcdude]

Yo spenzalii. Try mounting shocks off of the front of a xxx. I know someone who did this.

[anothermbdusted]

just thought i might let everyone know that if you are looki