XXX-S Forum v1.0

[Aussie_Man]

Hi guys. Just wondering, does or has anyone here tried running a locked front diff? If anyone has, could they please give us an idea of what its like and when its best suited to run it locked? Thanks, cya

[TSR6]

Originally posted by SyberSerulean
hey, i heard that this car was racing around the prototype xxx-s. correct me if im wrong.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=745654
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=745657

it is also a single belt TC but that car is only available overseas.

cool eh?

looks alot like that proto xxx-s, no?

I know I've seen that car before. The original pictures that I had seen even had Losi diff's in them :D . It is not afiliated with Losi in any way.. A Japanese company with a similar design. It even has PB suspension. :eek:

Locked Diff - I ran a fully tightened diff a couple weeks ago. It wasn't locked, but it could not be tightened anymore. :D

It was a really tight track, with so much turn in, i was having a hard time running my one-way, and i felt so slow running the diff, so i said "screw it" and tightened the piss out of the diff screw.

I accually liked it.

-Troy

[Kazie]

Hey guys, what allen wrench sizes would i need for the xxx-s

thanks!

[Kazie]

hey guys, is there a differnce in the new yellow belt? vs the original black belt?

[jrutherford]

The Car that you guts are talking about above is a Robitronics ETC v1, which is made is austria. It is there own design of chassis and drivtrain but uses Hong Nor/Ofna Diffs and Suspension and a mision battry bar

[TSR6]

Wrenches:
1/16"
.05"
3/32"

The original belt is blue, not black. There is a difference, if i remember correctly, the teeth on the yellow belt are suposed to be stiffer?? Im not sure..

[Clod_Killer]

Yep, its supposed to be more flexable, and keep tooth profile better.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Clod_Killer
Yep, its supposed to be more flexable, and keep tooth profile better.

Just talked to someone..

Teeth are stiffer, while the belt itself is more flexible. They removed a couple "strands" from inside the belt.

-Troy

[lbckevin]

Here is a cool pic of my Losi XXS with the new Graphite Chassis and the sweet Trinity Monster horsepower Stock motor.

[lbckevin]

Here is a Pic of the new Alfa Body by Losi...

[lbckevin]

Here is one more pic of the new chassis with the larger cutouts for the motor...by the servo....speed control area....and under batteries...It is well worth the money..I also picked up the new yellow (stronger) belt..

[SyberSerulean]

hows that motor for ya?
i got one in my ob4 international but havn't got a chance to run it.

so, the etc v1 should at least speed wise perform almost as good, the same, or better as the xxx-s? O_o...

any ideas?

[lbckevin]

Syber,

I love the new Trinity Monster Horsepower motor. It needs to be geared 1-2 teeth lower than a Green Machine or 4 teeth lower (on the pinion) than the Trinity P2K2. It is the dominant motor at my local track. I was TQ and A main winner with it in Pro Stock sedan race.

You Got to try it !
:p

[SyberSerulean]

yeah, ima race it this sunday. Im thinking about gearing down a tooth. Im running 124/39 currently and i have a 37t pinion as well.

hows that motor torque wise?
i heard its jusy a bit better than the GM3.

[SkyBlueDoc]

A friend of mine is picking up an xxx-s (haven't decided on spec yet), and I've been painting RC bodies for years and would like to paint some up for him, but I don't know how cross-compatible different 190mm sedan bodies are.

I'm assuming that most Protoform bodies are no problem, as they are made for touring cars in general. But what about Tamiya bodies. I know how excellent the molding is on the Tamiya product, but has anyone had problems mounting these on XXX-S vehicles?

Gotta have an EVO VI rally and Skyline, in my opinion, even if they aren't as slippery as the ubiquitous Stratus/Accord contingent.

Any problems with particular bodies from particular manufacturers? Any particularly good fits?

What do you all run? Post pix!

[LouisB]

SkyBlueDoc, my club races a saloon championship (stratus and other 4 door) for half the year and a GT championship (Skyline, 911 turbo, Eclipse, TVR etc) for the other half. I have been running the Pform Stratus but for the next championship (starting on Sunday) I'm gonna run a HPI Skyline GTR. It is a pretty good body, the wing isn't very strong or big so there isn't that much rear downforce. Last GT championship I ran a HPI porsche 911 turbo and it had very good downforce and was easy to drive, but it's all knackered up now so I'm putting the Nissan back on;)
I've had no probs with HPI bodies.

[RcLaB1]

hello, is this car any good, or worth getting......

anyone have it yet?


thanks

[SkyBlueDoc]

regarding the RTR xxx-s sport:

i think that it is fine, really replacing the base model of the xxx-s in the losi line-up with the introduction of the xxx-s graphite. and really, the graphite is only a better deal if you are planning on adding all of the additional parts that they provide.

personally, i would recommend looking for the non-RTR version of the non-graphite xxx-s. that way you can put it together yourself and understand how everything fits together, and select a motor, esc, and fm radio that best serves your uses. and if there are a handful of graphite parts that you really want (the arms and shock towers, for example), you'll be able to stick them in as you build.

i think that there is also something to be said for getting the graphite parts kit, if only so you have a full complement of replacement parts.

but there is nothing wrong with the RTR. decent esc and motor, all slapped together by people who know what they are doing. no cost-cutting either. in fact, it is the best way to get all the bits at once, you just don't get to choose which electronics.

[SkyBlueDoc]

thanks Louis.

sounds like the HPI bodies are the best place to start for non-stratus xxx-s bodies.

i've heard that the R33 and R34 skyline bodies handle like crap at high-speed due to the front end aerodynamics. i don't really care, but if you're racing, the F360 Modena body from HPI looks pretty slippery. i know that there is a guy on a different forum running that on his brushless-equipped tc3 with the HPI wing set, and it looks sharp.

i don't really understand the "sedan" classification. where on earth do people race accords and stratuses, except in the streets of southern california? wouldn't a WRC racing format make more sense? you know, hot subarus, skylines, bmws, volvos, even focuses and peugeots? lets face it; the stratus isn't exactly a supercar sold exclusively in north america...and the accord is a price-point family car world-wide.

a WRC or GT2/GT1 class would force all racers to use less aerodynamic, but more aesthetically pleasing and realistic bodies...

[TSR6]

Only reason sedans are used - Handling Balance.

They handle the best... The stratus mainly is the most balanced body. It has both rear traction, and steering.. While other bodies may have more steering, less rear downforce

-Troy

[JR in NC]

In my humble opinion I like the Alpha Romeo 156. The body has proven through our fall series to be more aerodynamic than all the Stratus clones. My son won the fall stock series. Just my two cents worth ,however I have found that the HPI bodies are more detailed and stand up better than their competers when a 14 year old loses his concentrations. Happy holidaysto all.





Jr in NC

[Gutter Ball]

Okay, I used to think that 5mm right height measured from the front/rear sides of the chasis was good. But I just saw on the Losi site that 3mm is good for carpet. So I set my ride height as per the instructions to 3mm. Now here's what I don't get.

The front shock collars are so high on the shock body now, the springs are barely touching the spring cup. So it seems like I have no shocks at all on the front. Is it supposed to be this way? I already put so many spacers on the shock shaft that I have to really struggle to get the spring cup back on.

The rear seems fine, at 3mm the shocks/springs still "bounce" back up.

I'm using purple Congo's (stiffest I could find) in the front w/80 weight oil and Losi blues in the rear with 40 weight (it might be 60, I forget) in the rear.

As for bodies, the fast guys at our track use 300M's and Accords.

[Gutter Ball]

On a different topic, who actually uses the droop screws? I did use them, but everybody told me to take them off. The bumperd are too flimsy for them. My XXX-S has never touched pavement, but everybody thinks so because the bottom of my front bumper is so scratched up from being forced down by the front arms/droop screws. Any comments?

[TSR6]

Ride - I run 5mm, at least... usually 5 or 5.5

I think running 3mm would be nuts..

Droop - I use the droop screws. The bumpers do flex, but not enough to where it would be better to run without the screws. The new bumpers are stiffer...

-Troy

[LanceS]

At the LHS, there's a posting for a XXX-S for sale for $100, just a roller, I believe. Is this a good price for one of these? I really like the 1 belt idea and the car looks great.

I'm trying to convert my RS4 Rally into a 180 mm RS4 Sport, but it I buy all the necessary parts trees and other stuff I need at retail, it's about half of what this XXX-S is going for.

Whaddya think?
LanceS

[Gutter Ball]

Eh....3mm is too low. The bottom hit any imperfections in the carpet. I ordered a new set of bumpers plus that new front bumper brace. I broke the lexan one. $100 is a good price for a used XXX-2...I think the lowest price I've ever seen new is about $124.95! ;)

[spenzalii]

Ultimate has them for 125, but you knew that already.

[lbckevin]

Spenzalli,

I would go for it if the rolling chassis XXXS is all Graphite. They are pretty easy to pick up. There are alot on ebay and in local papers. If I were you I would spend the $225 to get the brand new XXXS Grphite Plus.....It comes with all the hopups and a sweet new Alfa Body. It is a great buy for the money and will not need any rebuilds or replacement of parts like a used one will.

Good Luck.

:cool:

[CWB]

I am getting a new losi xxx-s graphite soon and was looking for some links to where i can find some parts. Or any other info i might need. Tower doesnt seem to have anything unless i am searching wrong.

What reciever and controller do you guys use or can recommend.
Thanks
Chris

[lbckevin]

Chris,

I use an Airtronics M8 radio and Aitronics 358 servos. I have great reliability with them and never had a problem.

You can get all Losi parts at WWW.stormerhobbies.com

[TSR6]

Originally posted by lbckevin
Chris,

I use an Airtronics M8 radio and Aitronics 358 servos. I have great reliability with them and never had a problem.

You can get all Losi parts at WWW.stormerhobbies.com

Another awesome online shop for Losi parts is www.KTHobbies.com

I also use the M8 radio. :D

-Troy

[rc10gtisthebest]

I use the M8 as well. But w/hitec digi servos

[TSR6]

Originally posted by rc10gtisthebest
I use the M8 as well. But w/hitec digi servos

Im using the 5925.

[spenzalii]

Has anybody ever tweaked the chasis? The rear end of my XXXS was run over by a car in a freak accident (or a moment of stupidity, depending on who you ask). The rear arm wasn't broken, but the shock tower, the wheel and the diff outdrive took the damage. I replaced the parts and put it away for a while, but looking at the rear, it seems one side is higher than the other now. I haven't put it on a tweak gauge (since I don't have one anyway) and figure the hinge pins and/or the blocks may have bent/stripped. I just wanted to know what should I be looking to replace before I buy a new chassis needlessly.

[Lapster]

Hi everyone, right now I am very happy. I have been into r/c cars for 5 years and 5 minutes ago I just bought my first eklectric touring car. A XXX-S!!!!! I am 14 years old but have built about 5 cars, electric and nitro. Is there anything different about this car that I should be careful of while I am building???? I have built HPI, Losi, Tamiya and Associated cars before. And do you think this a good setup for carpet mod racing?? And what do you run with the hard or sof tires in the front.

XXX-S, LRP V7, Jaco foam tires, Hitec high speed-Hi torque servo, XXL reciever and a JR XR-3i with a stratus body, D4 13 turn double.

[TSR6]

Spenz - I would tear down the car, and check for bent / striped/ cracked parts, definately.

I would also see if you can borrow a tweak board, or at least attempt to do the knife trick.

Lap - Check out Losi's website. The setups they have posted there are good starting points for most tracks. :)

-Troy

[Lapster]

Can you guys give me some links on www.towerhobbies.com or www.stormerhobbies.com that have foam tires that will fit the XXX-S.

[LouisB]

The 26mm TRC or Jaco foams are popular.
Quite a lot of people useTRC purple rears (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=TRCTT1054) and TRC plaid fronts (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=TRCTT1066) but you can also use 28mm foams.

I don't race on carpet so I'm not an expert but tires saying "touring" or "sedan" will most likely fit;)

[Lapster]

Do the same tires fit on associated and losi hubs.

[LouisB]

yes

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Lapster
Can you guys give me some links on www.towerhobbies.com or www.stormerhobbies.com that have foam tires that will fit the XXX-S.

www.kthobbies.com <-foamies.

The same tires will fit, If you use the standard hex. You cannot use the "Losi Hex" with standard wheels, only Losi wheels fit the Losi hex. :(

-Troy

[Lapster]

So what comes with the stock XXX-S??? Losi hex or standard hex.

[LouisB]

BOTH! The XXX-S comes with old-style losi hexes for old Losi wheels (so people could use their street weapon wheels) AND standard 12mm hexes as used by other manufacturers

[Lapster]

What do I put in the back of the car, hard foams or soft foams??? My LHS has a track and they recommended Jaco purple and double purple foams both 24mm.

[LouisB]

I would say purple (softer) on the back and double purple on the front:)

[Lapster]

How many hours did it take you guys to build your XXX-S's? I have built about 5 cars before so I know what to do.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Lapster
How many hours did it take you guys to build your XXX-S's? I have built about 5 cars before so I know what to do.

I could build one in an hour or less. I think I built the first one in two hours, not including food breaks.

[LosiGuy62314]

hey i wuz thinking of buying a new car and i cannot decide whether to go 1/10 scale touring or 1/12 scale pan. wut are ur opinions on the xxx-s compared to the TC3 for example? and which would u recommend, 1/10 or 1/12? i have experience with 1/10 scale off road nitro.

[JR in NC]

What's the diff between a XXX-S thats been changed over to graphite with the new rear end and a XXX-SG+. I can't find one. Somebody got any ideas?


JR in NC

[TSR6]

Originally posted by JR in NC
What's the diff between a XXX-S thats been changed over to graphite with the new rear end and a XXX-SG+. I can't find one. Somebody got any ideas?


JR in NC

XXX-S w/ graphite / New rear is just that.

The XXXSGP has a couple small changes in the front, thicker castor blocks, chassis has been re-designed a bit to be lighter.

There is a whole list of the changes back a couple pages.

[TSR6]

posted by Todd Hodge, on RCTech, also copied here back on page 24, or 26, or something:

-chassis-The car uses the same chassis. We are changing the way it is milled out. Right now it is about 1/2 oz lighter than the original lightened chassis.

-Rear arms and hubs-The arms have a another hinge pin hole located .150" in from the outside hole. Then we have new hubs that are offset .150" wider. This is the rear end we ran on carpet with foam tires and worked well. We have also found it works well on apsphalt and rubber tires.

caster blocks-Yes they will work on the existing front arms.

Here are a few other details on the graphite XXX-S
-Full graphite components
-New stiffer foam bumpers
-New stiffer plastic bumpers for the front and rear. This helps relieve the flexing problems with the droop screws.
-Ball bearing steering
-New front bumper brace that does not affect the front sway bar.
-Team Losi 24mm mesh wheels
-New belt which is yellow
-New rear shock tower. This shock tower is the same as the exisiting shock tower. The only change is that is has 3 more optional lowered holes for the camber link.
-High and low roll center blocks.
-Aluminum CVD's with aluminum 8/32 low profile wheel nuts
-Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles
-Team Losi Alfa Romeo Body with high downforce wing. This body/wing is awesome!!

[Rinkrat99]

Can someone please post what the contents of the Losi XXX-S Sedan #0250 kit contains. I have been unable to completly understand what hop-ups have been included in this kit. Does it come with a body?

Thanks

[JKA]

Here is what Stormer says about the basic 0250 XXXS kit...

Additional Product Note(s):
ELECTRONICS NOT INCLUDED, REQUIRES RADIO, ESC, BATTERY, ETC.

FEATURES:
Hard anodized oil filled shocks
Precision powder coated race tuned springs
MIP CVD's, front and rear
Adjustable suspension downstops and a droop setting gauge
High performance racing wheels and tires
New Stratus Fear racing body, clear unpainted
High performance single belt drive train with ball differentials
Full ball bearings

Complete un-assembled kit. Requires, Motor, battery pack, speed control, radio system with servo.



Hope this helps.

[TSR6]

I'm considering buying a new X-SGP. To the guys who switched, are you glad you did?

I'm more looking at keeping my current X-S for the outdoor asphalt season, and getting the new GP for carpet only. Any thoughts?

I know it would make life easier having two cars. It was a beoch to re-build, re-setup the car to run outdoor Sat/Sun and indoor Tues. :p

[TSR6]

Originally posted by TSR6
I'm considering buying a new X-SGP. To the guys who switched, are you glad you did?

I'm more looking at keeping my current X-S for the outdoor asphalt season, and getting the new GP for carpet only. Any thoughts?

I know it would make life easier having two cars. It was a beoch to re-build, re-setup the car to run outdoor Sat/Sun and indoor Tues. :p

Got one last night, finished it this morning. :)

-Troy

[MrHorspwer]

Another one here looking to buy a XXX-S. I'm currently in a Tamiya TA04. I like it, it runs and handles well, but it is WAY too expensive for parts. Both my brother and my nephew are running a XXX-S. I like the car except for one thing... the steering. It is similar to my TA04's steering setup, but seems really soft and mushy, there's lots of side-to-side play. Both their kits are the basic kit. I'm still undecided between the basic and the graphite+. It's a $100 difference and that money could go towards a nice set of packs or some new foams and a good servo. I like the threaded shocks of the graphite kit, but that's all I think I'd really want. The graphite parts don't really intice me, as I am pretty much a sport user. The car will be used exclusivly on carpet, 27T motor, mainly pratice. The fast guys at my local track are pretty much semi-pro so there is no competiting with them without major $'s. I will spend a few night out racing though. It just seems like $140 is such a great deal for a kit that everybody was raving about how well it runs when it cost over $200 last year.

Convince me which to buy. Oh yeah... anybody want to buy a TA04?:D

[Kazie]

hey guys, I noticed that when im driving my xxxs around the wear on the right side (battery side) is much greater vs the wear on the left side. Is just ordinary?

[mcplaayer]

yes my padawan it is :)

[540ismiley]

I am am new to the losi forum. I have had HPI and Kyosho kits before. SO i really don't know where to pick up team losi hop ups and which ones are the best.
I just bought the RTR kit. I was wondering what hop ups are avaliable other than the obvious graphite. and what are the websites. I like the alumiimum stuff the best. I plan to race this car just at the track.
thanks
josh

[LouisB]

You can get titanium parts from Lunsford Racing (http://www.lunsfordracing.com/) (turnbuckles + hinge pins)
Aluminium bits from Trinity (http://www.teamtrinity.com/) and Dynamite (http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/mfgpage.asp?Page=DYN&tag=ndd)
Losi make threaded shocks as well

Two of the best places for ordering these parts are Stormer Hobbies (http://stormerhobbies.com) and KT Hobbies (http://kthobbies.com)

The graphite conversion is one of the most worthwhile upgrades for racing, it also leaves you with a bunch of spares:)

I wouldn't get many aluminium parts because they can bend, are heavy and expensive. The only aluminium parts i have on my Losi are blue bellcranks from Fastrax (http://cmldistribution.co.uk) (at CML distribution) in the UK.

[Kazie]

Hey guys, I was wondering if it was worth while upgrading from the basic xxx-s kit to the g+ or just buying the g+. Price wise of course. I have the stiffzel xxx-s kit and i used non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean it and it melted the stiffzel parts. not plastic though..as my reciever, servo, plastic bellcranks, bumpers, and ballends have not shown any sign of the effects. The other stiffzel parts..wel...they look like theyre gonna have a permanent coat of dust on them... O WELL!:o

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Kazie
Hey guys, I was wondering if it was worth while upgrading from the basic xxx-s kit to the g+ or just buying the g+. Price wise of course. I have the stiffzel xxx-s kit and i used non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean it and it melted the stiffzel parts. not plastic though..as my reciever, servo, plastic bellcranks, bumpers, and ballends have not shown any sign of the effects. The other stiffzel parts..wel...they look like theyre gonna have a permanent coat of dust on them... O WELL!:o

I just went from a almost full graphite xxx-s, original graphite parts, to the XXX-SGP+, and I am VERY impressed. I used Paul's nats setup, with a few mods, and it ran awesome for the first time on the track. I was faster than I was with the old car...

-Troy

[dirtbiker335]

HEY!!
If you get the G -plus like i did about 3 weeks ago when you are building it make sure u use the tapping screw that is included with the kit because it is hard to thread some of those screws into the graphite. Also make sure that you use the low roll center blocks the car drives alot better with them but on the front with them you have to do a little dremmeling to the chassis because the arms will hit. But other than that the car is so great i love it and it drives grrrreeeaaattt!!!

GOOD LUCK
:)

[Kazie]

O wow, you need to dremel the chassis even with the stock low roll blocks? hmm losi didnt do a very good job did they? lol anyways thanks on the tip! no what on the chassis do i need to dremel off to use those lowerd blocks?

[TSR6]

You do NOT need to dremel the chassis with the stock parts.

If you opt to run a LOW roll center, you will need to dremel the chassis. The parts that come with the chassis are HIGH roll center, and MID roll center. In between low and high.. The Low roll center blocks must be either cut customly, or you must buy either Speedtech or Trinity LRC blocks.

I repeat, You do not need to use a dremel with stock parts. :)

-Troy

[Kazie]

ahh I was about to say..seemed a bit odd.. cool! well if i were to purchase these low roll blocks then dremeling the chassis is a must right?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Kazie
ahh I was about to say..seemed a bit odd.. cool! well if i were to purchase these low roll blocks then dremeling the chassis is a must right?

Yes, although it isnt too much work, you have to take your time. It's basicly finding what binds, what rubs, and hand fitting, and removing chassis and bumper material to make it fit.

On the chassis itself, the only real work you have to do to it is to remove the "gusset" i guess you might call it right below the arm. On the bumper, you have to make room for hinge pins, and cut droop screws.

[Kazie]

Hmmmmmm Seems like quite some amount of work, ill stick with the Mid roll blocks, now if i were to use the shorter shocks in the front i would only need to purchase the shorter shafts right? and id be all set?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Kazie
Hmmmmmm Seems like quite some amount of work, ill stick with the Mid roll blocks, now if i were to use the shorter shocks in the front i would only need to purchase the shorter shafts right? and id be all set?

Which car do you have? Older XXX-S? The XXX-SGP+ comes with the short bodies and shafts.

You only need the short shafts (.28) with the old car, and accually, when running low roll center, you must use the .36 bodies. You can use short bodies, and short shafts when running high roll center though.

[Kazie]

I have the stiffzel version, and am planning on getting the graphite plus, so i was wondering if i needed the short shafts for the graphite plus version.

[dirtbiker335]

Has anyone tried the new shock mounts by lungsford????????????

[ChadK]

Yes, They are a great product. It makes changing shock positions very easy. I have used them for years on lots of cars and highly recomend them.

Chad

[dirtbiker335]

Thanks alot i will use them on my new shock towers by team prp
i highly recomend them too

[lowbugit]

Hey guys I am fairly new to touring cars and have a used XXXs G+ I have a guestion about droop. With the shocks off the car when you turn the droop screws clockwise ie tighten them this raises the A arm. Is that reducing the droop seeting or increasing the droop. I have tried to reason this out in my mind but am looking for a better explanation than I have arrived at myself. Thanks for any help.

[Dj Kumara]

Does anyone know of any websites that sell standard xxxs's for less than about $190 and post to overseas customers. As far as I know Ultimate Hobbies doesn't.

[Gutter Ball]

I'm too tired to try and explain it. I too had problems understanding droop at first. Try reading this if you already haven't.

http://www.teamlosi.com/xxxs_page/xxxs_droop.htm

It helped me.

[Lapster]

www.stormerhobbies.com sells them for 150. And www.ultimate.com sells them for 125. I dont know what shipping is therte though. I bougt mine from stormer.

[540ismiley]

Any one have a duratrax intellispeed 8t pro. It is only $80 and seems to get good reviews. I would like to know how it performs and if anyone has one
josh

[Lapster]

Hey guys, I was wondering how can I make my car hang with other cars on the straits. The car is awesome it the trns but gets killed in the straits. I have geared up and that helped a little. I have a ...

GM V-12 XC
Jaco Foams
XXL reciever
JR high speed servo
Trinity P2k2... eBrushes and polarized springs
SMC 2400 matched

I have shortened all the wiring until the wires are tight to get as much power as possible. I am thinking of getting rid of my Tamiya connectors and getting those trinity plugs. Also, I might save up for the graphite kit.

[TSR6]

Definately ditch the Tamiya plugs.

How old is the P2k2? Rebuild it lately? cut the comm and toss new brushes in it. Either 4499's or reedy 767's. The 4499's have a little more life in em though.

[RCfun]

Also, you might want to check if anything is binding; like your gear mesh, the belt, or bearings.

[Moo-Shoe]

Another thing to try is running 1/2 degree rear hubs backwards to open up the rear toe in. Stock toe-in is 4 degrees. This will slow the car down but help it track in a straighter line. If you run the 1/2 degree (or even 1 degree) rear hubs backwards, you will take out some of the toe-in and this will actually help your car go faster down the straights.

[RCfun]

In a nutshell that would help, but you shouldn't have to mess with your car set-up. Reducing the rear toe-in will make it less "stable", and have less steering.

[JR in NC]

RCFUN,
You mention you're running 2400's, are your competitors running 3000's or 3300's nimh's. You seem to dismiss toe-in, camber, caster all of these have things to do with your speed. How's you're droop is you're car squatting down or standing up down the straight,maybe softer springs. With a P2K2 it's a great motor,but when was it last rebuilt, are you running against those new Trinity Monster Stock motors they create alot of rpms.
Yes, replace those Tamiya plugs, my favorite are Deans plugs.

Just a few of my favorite things about going fast and yes a graphite chassis weighs cosiderably less than a siffzell chassis.



JR in NC

[jjl]

Question: if you want better straight line stability, less turn in (less steering), and less twitchiness, should you have your front tires slightly toe in or toe out? I think the answer is Toe in, that's what the HPI website says, but in an article by Josh Cyrul about tuning the Reflex, he says toe out accomplishes this. Anyone? BTW, I ordered a XXX-s G+, i'll post pics after it's built.

[Lapster]

Everyone in my class was runnning 2400's. I have the same camber and caster that the winner of my class was running. I came in 3rd in all of my heats. I think I could get a 1st or 2nd place finish with the tips you all are telling me. I also got the motor 3 days ago. BTW, I am only 14 so dont tell me a bunch of expensive things to do.

[RCfun]

Lol JR in NC, are you sure you're talking to me? Jjl, I've only heard that toe-in offer's less steering and less "twitchiness". Personaly I run around 1 degree of toe-out; this give's me a little more steering entering a turn. My car is a tad more twitchy because of this, but you usually get used to it. I also run all four shocks in the middle hole (stock positioning) on the shock tower (I have a TC3), which is a little less responsive than running all four shocks on the outer hole, but I gain more traction with this set-up due to a little more body-roll; and I run -1.5 camber front and rear, with zero kick-up and zero castor. The track I run on is concrete and is very small, but with lots of turns and not that much traction. Lapster your batteries should really be fine, unless you don't discharge them.

[Lapster]

They say NiMh on them. So do I need to discharge them??

[RCfun]

What? 2400's are NiCad's, not NiMh's, which mean's you need to discharge them.

[JR in NC]

My mistake I was talking to Lapster instead of you . This is what happens when you 've been up since 5:30 taking care of sick kids!



JR in NC

[RCfun]

Lol, that's ok, I'm a little under-the-weather as well.

[Ortiz]

Hey JR in NC...

Guess what?

Just for kicks I went out and bought a G+. Took touring stock the first time out at Durham with it. Beat Jimmy, Billy,Mark, and the usual fast guys. I was surprised how smooth it felt compared to my TC3 with the stock setup. I hope to see you out there soon so I can share my setup and Ideas with ya. cya Later..


Ortiz
Factory Team Mindblown

[JR in NC]

Ortiz,
Heard about your G+,way to show those TC3'sa thing or two so congrats. I just got Bryan an all graphite and titanium roller for $170 shipping included, just ordered the G+ rearend for it. I'm changing over his original XXX-S to graphite and that's going to be my spec class car and Nat. masters car.LOL If I can ever get all my parts in from all over. Brad has got 2 MVP's for us to try out for a while, so GO MINDBLOWN here we go again.


JR in NC

[dirtbiker335]

about the speed issue i would suggest to check all the bearings again because i have a G+ and i was blowing factory team tc3s at my local track with just a fantom p2k with putnum blue and green brushes just check the gearing because with a 25 tooth pinnion and a 90 tooth spur i was shooting down the back straight but anyways one day just go through the car and clean and lube all the bearings and make sure youre cars suspension is freeeeee!!!
put some time into it and on race day it will preform and if after that you want some more speed check with the track to see if there is anyone racing 19 turn its a little more fun when all the expert stock guys throw a 19 turn into their car one sunday morning

[RCfun]

Was all the driver's abililty equal to your's even though you had a faster motor?

[lbckevin]

You guys should pic up the new Monster Horsepower Stock motor by Trinity. It is a great motor and blows away the MVP and the P2K2 pro. I gear it 33/128 and have good low end and great top end. Give it a try.

[JR in NC]

JUST BEWARE OF WHAT THE HANDOUT IS AT THE NATIONALS.

It won't be the Monster Stock!!!!




JR in NC

[TSR6]

Originally posted by lbckevin
You guys should pic up the new Monster Horsepower Stock motor by Trinity. It is a great motor and blows away the MVP and the P2K2 pro. I gear it 33/128 and have good low end and great top end. Give it a try.

Agreed... I have a monster stock, draws at least 10amps on the T-35, and it pulls 63+ watts on a fantom dyno.

I have a couple, and its by far the best motor I've run.

-T

[Dj Kumara]

Hi,
does anyone know if the standard xxxs comes with a pinion gear? If so, what size?

[spenzalii]

Nope. Pick up a few from the shop when you get the kit

[jjl]

does the xxx-s Graphite plus come with a pinion?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by jjl
does the xxx-s Graphite plus come with a pinion?

No

Not a single racing KIT that i know of comes with a pinion.

In fact, I would suggest buying the 128t 64pitch spur gear ( blue ) and just use 64pitch pinions from the start!

-Troy

[ImpulseGTP]

Hi guys!! I just bought a XXX-S G+, its a nice car, but i haven't ran it yet, hopefully i can run it this weekend. anyway, i found that the shocks that came with the kit are pretty weird......they dont seem to bleed out the air bubbles so well.....any tips on that?and i ve also found that no matter how well i set the gear mesh between the pinion and the spur, they still sounds like crap whenever i let off the throttle, is it a design problem???should i just chg the whole thing to 64pitch like TSR6 said???(crap, i just bought two 48 pitch pinions from Team losi yesterday!!)

Anything about this car I have to look out for??? thanks

btw guys, I ve found that the hex adaptor on the G+ are kinda a tight fit for the new TRC yellow dish foam tires.....

[TSR6]

Originally posted by ImpulseGTP
Hi guys!! I just bought a XXX-S G+, its a nice car, but i haven't ran it yet, hopefully i can run it this weekend. anyway, i found that the shocks that came with the kit are pretty weird......they dont seem to bleed out the air bubbles so well.....any tips on that?and i ve also found that no matter how well i set the gear mesh between the pinion and the spur, they still sounds like crap whenever i let off the throttle, is it a design problem???should i just chg the whole thing to 64pitch like TSR6 said???(crap, i just bought two 48 pitch pinions from Team losi yesterday!!)

Anything about this car I have to look out for??? thanks

btw guys, I ve found that the hex adaptor on the G+ are kinda a tight fit for the new TRC yellow dish foam tires.....

Shocks - You can never get all the air out of the shocks, as they are made for the airbubbles. They will always have a slight amount of air at the very top of the shock. This is not a problem, as the piston should never get that high in the oil to get near the bubble.

Basicly, fill the shocks to the threads, let bubbles rise for a couple minutes. Push the piston in, extended, slowly..then slightly tilt the shock up in the direction of the bleeder on the cartrige ( the line in the threads that lets the exess oil and air out ) Twist the shock body, keeping the bleeder "up" for about 30seconds, you will have an airless shock, but it is a vacume. Once the air is pulled around the seals, you will have a perfect shock..

Hec - Yes, they are tight. Occasionally I have to remove them from a wheel by pop'ing it out with a hex wrench.

[rc10tc3drivr]

I have heard that if you remove the bearing sheilds from the enclosed bearings it will free them up alot more.

Can this be done to the stock losi bearings.

Thanks Wes

[ImpulseGTP]

Thanks for the tip, i will try that later.

any ideas on the gears?

[TSR6]

impulse - 48p can be a bit louder than 64p, but it should be fine if you have good mesh. Check both the spur and the pinion.

Last outdoor season i had a small grit of sand sneak into the belt tunnel and lodge itself in the spur gear. It put the pinion through heck, and made some noise. Otherwise make sure the spur isnt wobbling to much, make sure the bearings are good, ect. If it's still bad, run it on your desk ( wheels off ) and try to locate the noise.

I suggest 64p because gear ratio changes are much finer compared to 64.

rc10 - I don't suggest you spray out the bearings unless you are in the upper % of the racer's at your track. If your race is decided by how many times you hit the wall, don't think about it..

Otherwise, I took all the shields off the bearings in the spur gear / tensioner. All the other bearings within the tunnel, diff bearings, I only removed the inner shields, leaving the outer shields in place. The bearings in the hubs I left as-is, did not even spray them out. The bearings i removed shields from, I sprayed with motor spray, and put 1-2 drops of Team1 bearing lube ( avail kthobbies.com ) in each bearing, worked the oil into the bearing by spinning it untill it free'd up, then put them back in the car.

-Troy

[dirtbiker335]

Any Setups For snowbirds????? :)

[dirtbiker335]

Try the Matt Francis wheel adapters for the foams and other tires they dont come off into the wheel also the shock colars because the stock plastic ones for the treaded shocks tend to get stuck

[rc10tc3drivr]

is there a website that has a gear ratio chart on it for 64 pitch and 48 pitch. if not can some one please tell me how to do it old school on the calculator.

[rc10tc3drivr]

has anyone dremeled out thier chassis to move the batts. closer if so can you post picks.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by rc10tc3drivr
has anyone dremeled out thier chassis to move the batts. closer if so can you post picks.

Interesting. Have people been doing this? I haven't seen anything on the X-S yet, only the TC3.

Snowbirds - I would just start with one of Paul lemuix's lateset setups. I'm accually using a variation of the carpet nats setup.

Only difference that I remember off the top of my head, is the new offset rear end, and im running silver springs all around.

www.teamlosi.com for setup sheets.

-Troy

[rc10tc3drivr]

any info on finding ratios?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by rc10tc3drivr
any info on finding ratios?

SPUR / PINION * 1.83 ( when using Std Diff pullies )

[diesel757]

trinity part #TMF1107 is the right one for the LRC front blocks?does any one know if the trinity part #TMF1101 graphite bumper brace will work with a front sway bar?thnks rob

[TSR6]

Originally posted by diesel757
trinity part #TMF1107 is the right one for the LRC front blocks?does any one know if the trinity part #TMF1101 graphite bumper brace will work with a front sway bar?thnks rob

I don't know on the LRC blocks. I just cut the stock blocks down.. If i remember right, you cut about .150" off of it. I can check when i get home if you wish.

I do not suggest the Trinity bumper brace. It's not graphite, i think its Krydex or something like that (?)

Either way, it breaks. Mine broke, everyone I know who uses it has broken it. Go with the re-designed Losi bumper brace, the big plastic one, not the lexan one.

-Troy

[Dad4RC]

I need some advice rebuilding my diffs. I lost one of the "belleville" washers, the coned-shape washer that go next to the diff nut carrier. The instructions call for six (6) for each diff. I only have eleven (11). Can I run one diff with only five (5)? I need to run tomorrow.

[Lapster]

Hey guys, where is the cheapest place to get a graphit ugrade kit???? Not he car kit... the conversion.

[Gutter Ball]

Originally posted by Dad4RC
I need some advice rebuilding my diffs. I lost one of the "belleville" washers, the coned-shape washer that go next to the diff nut carrier. The instructions call for six (6) for each diff. I only have eleven (11). Can I run one diff with only five (5)? I need to run tomorrow.
I really don't know what those bevelled washers do, but I'm sure you'll be okay with only 5. I only have 4 on one of mine because the lock nut I used was bigger than the one that came with the kit, so the thrust bolt wouln'd catch the threads. Took 2 of the washers out and it's been working fine for over 3 months.

Second on that Trinity brace, it's too stiff. One bad bump and it just cracks where you screw it onto the car. I've been waiting for the new bumper for over 3 weeks. According to Horizon, nothing in stock.

[TSR6]

Should be fine with the washers, just pick up a spare when you get a chance.

On the Graphite stuff, Talk to www.kthobbies.com If it's not on the webpage, e-mail Kraig, he may be able to get you what you need. Tell him Troy sent you..

-Troy

[jjl]

what size pinion should i use for my xxx-s G+, running a 10 turn double on low traction ashpalt parking lot, with the stock spur gear? The manual suggests an 18 tooth, i think, but for some reason i was running a 35 tooth pinion on my old pro 3. can someone tell me the answer to this, and explain how the different pinion sizes effect speed?

[LouisB]

bigger pinion= less acceleration and higher top speed
smaller pinion= more acceleration and lower top speed

If the gear ratio on your Pro 3 was close then you'll need to work out the final drive ratio of your Pro 3 with the 35tooth pinion, spur / pinion x 2.25. This will give you the ratio that you want the final ratio on the XXX-S to be.

The final drive ratio for the losi = spur / pinion x 1.83 (as TSR6 has said many hundreds of times LOL)

Pro 3 final drive ratio / 1.83 = ratio required from pinion and spur.
So, (I think the G+ has a 90t spur) 90/ "required ratio" should give you the size of the pinion you need.

I know this is complicated (and most likely wrong) but here's a little example.
Say you have a 100tooth spur on your pro 3,
100/35 * 2.25 = 6.5

6.5/ 1.83 = 3.55, then 90/3.55 = 25, so you would need a 25 tooth pinion. simple, just put in the number of teeth on the Pro 3 spur;)

[tarvymoto]

JJL , be carefull because you may have run 64 pitch on the Pro 3 ....the XXXS G+ comes w/ a 48 pitch spur. Start with the XXXS manual sugestion for pinion.

[dirtbiker335]

How About The "BIRDS" is anyone running there G+ there i need some setups and I think im running 64 there with a 128 spur and a 33 pinnion for stock

[Slow Driver]

Can anyone tell me where I can get screw sets for the XXX-S? I know KTHobbies is the favorite but they are out. Any suggestions? Also, which is better aluminium or graphite for my son just learning and breaking parts.

[TSR6]

dirt - Start out with either the Box setup, or go to Losi's site and try one of the setups on there.

I'm running Paul's carpet nats setup, with silver springs all around, high roll center, and im running the offset rear end parts.

Slow _ If he keeps breaking parts, I reccomend the stock Stiffezel parts. I wouldnt say Graphite, as it can be a little more brittle than the stock stiffezel, but I would not say aluminum either, as it bends, and sometimes tweaks out the car without you realizing the part is accually bent.

[dirtbiker335]

Thanks alot. will you be at the birds??? i tried but i got in too late but i will race the club race because i live only 15 minutes away...
Thanks Again

[TSR6]

Originally posted by dirtbiker335
Thanks alot. will you be at the birds??? i tried but i got in too late but i will race the club race because i live only 15 minutes away...
Thanks Again

nope. :cool:

[jjl]

Just finished putting together my xxx-s Graphite plus, GREAT kit. some of the molding could have been a little sharper, but overall, the quality of the kit is great, and it's a great value, you don't have to add a single thing to this kit. plus, this thing rocks out of the box, it is dialed straight away. here are a couple of pics. body's not done yet. Notice the holes drilled in the lexan spur cover, made the wiring nice and neat, but it was not easy to wire the esc with a deans plug on the other end while the wires were threaded through the lexan cover.

[jjl]

here's the body.

[LouisB]

Looking good:D
That made me remember that I need a new body, as my club is running the GT championship there's a limited selection legal for use. No strati, alfas etc so I have to find a well balanced 2 door body. Any recommendations? I know most people have never tried a 2 door GT body on their losi but I thought I might as well try:)
<edit> Oh yeah, I'm running a HPI Skyline at the moment, it causes oversteer.
I used to run a HPI Porsche Turbo, but it didn't have enough steering.
My current ideas are the Proline TVR Speed 6 (cool car), F360 or a HPI NSX.

[TSR6]

I have chosen not to go through the belt cover for the time being, although my other car is setup for that.

I do agree with the car being good to go out of the box, the only hop-ups I have added to the GP+ would be a One-way-diff, and the trinity aluminum shock collars. They have a 0-ring inside the shock collar that prevents it from vibrating loose like the stock shock collars will have months of use.

LouisB- Can you use the Protoform 2-door Civic? Protoform Infiniti G35 Coupe? Acura RSX?

[jjl]

if you have to go 2 door, i would stick with the Protoform bodies infiniti coupe, rsx, or civic. the 360 and TVR just don't seem like race bodies to me. the hpi bodies, imo, are nicely detailed but a little heavier and the wheel wells are pre-molded to fit HPI chassis, i find the slight adjustment you need to make as far as cutting wheel wells for non-hpi cars annoying.

[LouisB]

Thanks jjl and Troy, I'll look into those bodies.
I'm the electric off-road rep for my club and there's a committee meeting tomorrow night so I'll see if those bodies can be added to the list. I'm also the club webmaster so I need a current list to put up on the site. It shouldn't be a problem.

jjl, I know what you mean about the wheel wells, that's one of the reasons why I'm looking for a Protoform:)

[jjl]

here's the finished body.

[AEcrazyT3]

Im in the market for a TC.. What are the plus sides to the xxx-s... What are the down sides? Really want something that is going to be low maintainence.. Something that I can stick a BL into and not worry about braking to much stuff from the power... and yet I can still set it up for racing... What do you xxx guys think...

[talon51]

Hey,
I've had my XXX-S for about a year now, and I'm finally getting into some serious racing with it, and I've noticed that the stock shock towers are incredibly flexable, they're killing my springs rates!! I saw some nice looking woven graphite shock towers a while back, and I can't find the site I saw them on, or remember who made em. Anyone seen or race with them? Or would the losi graphite be stiffer? I was also thinking of duplicating the stock towers out of aluminum because we have a great machine shop here on campus (RIT) and they would be even stiffer than graphite. Any thoughts, or ideas?

AEcrazyT3...
I love my XXX-S, its the easiest car I've ever seen as far as maintenance goes. To remove the diffs, all you have to do is remove 6 screws and loosen the belt. The belt is nearly 100% sealed so nothing gets in. My car is about a year old, and the belt looks brand new. Its not a Graphite plus, but its close enough. I have the machined graphite chassis and threaded shock bodies all around, as well as Lunsford Ti turnbuckles. I've used some of the graphite suspension parts, and they seem a little weak compared to the stock composite. Maybe I've just had bad luck with the graphite... Its also a very adjustable car, you can adjust almost everything you'd find on an extreme high end car like the Tamiya 414MII, including anti-dive and some other crazy adjustments, and the graphite plus is even more adjustable. Get one, you won't be dissappointed.

Later,
Talon

[LouisB]

What talon said;) I haven't seen a XXX-S with brushless so I don't know if the belt would skip under acceleration, but it would depend on gearing and the motor used.

PRP (http://home.attbi.com/~teamprp/) makes megatune shock towers.

I'm allowed to use the Infinity G35, Acura RSX Type-S or the Civic:) but I think the Civic looks a bit too much like a saloon body, and I want to try something a little different. The RSX looks more aggressive so might try one of them first, any preferences?

[TSR6]

I have not noticed any significant flex with the losi shock towers. I am running graphite, but i still have the stiffizel shock towers somewhere from my first car.

Graphite - Mixed feelings.. I really think they are as, if not close to as strong as the stock parts. I've broken just as many stiffezel parts as graphite parts. I can't say one is more durable than the other from personal experiances, but the graphite parts do flex less.

-Troy

[LouisB]

I've broken 1 front left stiffizel arm and 1 front left graphite arm. Both from crashes that would have broken any car, one into a concrete pillar and the other into a steel girder! I think that they are both very durable.
The shock towers only flex from side to side, not in the same direction as the shocks move so any flex shouldn't effect handling. The only times towers are stressed in that direction is in a really bad crash, where you want some flex.

I've ordered the RSX:)

[TSR6]

Agreed, the only flex i could think of with the graphite parts was a slight front to rear flex of the tower, when i really put some force on it...

But as said, that should not effect the car, as the flex that really matters is up and down, where the shock will be pushing up on the tower.

If there is any there, I would be surprised.

-Troy

[AEcrazyT3]

Holly COW this thing rocks! I just got the RTR and it is SWEET! This is deffinetly what I was looking for.. Thank you Tax returns! hehe... So hey a few questions... First TC.... Does anyone have any HOT recomendations for a motor/gear ratio? Those will be my first hop ups!

[Dj Kumara]

Just received news today from a hobby shop that they have xxxs's in New Zealand. But they are graphite kits, and I have no idea what parts have changed. I unsuccesfully searched teamlosi.com, and so was wondering if someone could tell me some details.
Is the included spur gear the same as in the standard kit?
Does it include tires?
Is stiffezal or graphite more liable to break in collisions?
I was planning on running a mabuchi motor for the time being. Will the chassis be able to handle 35-40kph/21-24mph collisions very well?

I just want to be sure I know what I'm getting. Thanks

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Dj Kumara
Just received news today from a hobby shop that they have xxxs's in New Zealand. But they are graphite kits, and I have no idea what parts have changed. I unsuccesfully searched teamlosi.com, and so was wondering if someone could tell me some details.
Is the included spur gear the same as in the standard kit?
Does it include tires?
Is stiffezal or graphite more liable to break in collisions?
I was planning on running a mabuchi motor for the time being. Will the chassis be able to handle 35-40kph/21-24mph collisions very well?

I just want to be sure I know what I'm getting. Thanks

chassis-The car uses the same chassis. We are changing the way it is milled out. Right now it is about 1/2 oz lighter than the original lightened chassis.

-Rear arms and hubs-The arms have a another hinge pin hole located .150" in from the outside hole. Then we have new hubs that are offset .150" wider. This is the rear end we ran on carpet with foam tires and worked well. We have also found it works well on apsphalt and rubber tires.

caster blocks-Yes they will work on the existing front arms.

Here are a few other details on the graphite XXX-S
-Full graphite components
-New stiffer foam bumpers
-New stiffer plastic bumpers for the front and rear. This helps relieve the flexing problems with the droop screws.
-Ball bearing steering
-New front bumper brace that does not affect the front sway bar.
-Team Losi 24mm mesh wheels
-New belt which is yellow
-New rear shock tower. This shock tower is the same as the exisiting shock tower. The only change is that is has 3 more optional lowered holes for the camber link.
-High and low roll center blocks.
-Aluminum CVD's with aluminum 8/32 low profile wheel nuts
-Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles
-Team Losi Alfa Romeo Body with high downforce wing. This body/wing is awesome!! ( From page 25 of this thread )

Tires - yes, Losi Slicks.

Spur - 90t 48p

Stiffezel v.s. graphite, i think i discussed that about 3-4 posts back

[talon51]

LouisB,
Hmm, those aren't the ones I've seen. The ones I saw had the same mounting holes as the stock shock towers, and had the same shape...I wouldn't know what to do with all those positions anyway!!!

If I remeber right, I saw them on Mark Dawson's car on his XXX-S tech site, but I can't remember the link. It know it was under the thread of the old HPI forums, though.

[LouisB]

They could be from Speedtech RC (http://www.speedtechrc.com/)

http://www.sslorder.com/Shop/Images/speedtechrc/imageFront%20Shock%20Tower.gif

[Rdub202]

which is the best for carpet racing...the Evo2, Graphite XXX-s , or the FT TC3??????????

[TSR6]

X-S carbon shock towers:

PRP Racing
Dynamite
Speedtech RC

-Troy

[ImpulseGTP]

Ratzas make one also, i like their foam bumper hold down:)

[dirtbiker335]

Check out Kinwalds Car Look At The Milling!!!http://www.teamtrinity.com/races/dabird/thurspic.html

[dirtbiker335]

http://www.teamtrinity.com/races/dabird/thruspic.html
sorry

[TSR6]

Originally posted by dirtbiker335
Check out Kinwalds Car Look At The Milling!!!http://www.teamtrinity.com/races/dabird/thurspic.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?postid=249437 :D

I took that picture in Jan. :cool:

[Gutter Ball]

Interesting! I was thinking about mounting 2 CPU fans to blow on my motor was well before I saw the pics! I abandoned the idea because I didn't think it would work.....might have to relook into it.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Gutter Ball
Interesting! I was thinking about mounting 2 CPU fans to blow on my motor was well before I saw the pics! I abandoned the idea because I didn't think it would work.....might have to relook into it.

I don't think he had those mounted up for his stock class runs, just a fyi. Only mod as far as I saw.

He had three fans total. Two blowing on the motor, and then one blowing on the GT7, with the case removed.

-Troy

[talon51]

Louis, those are the ones!!! Thanks a lot! I'll have to check out the other ones too... Any opinions on which is better?

Thanks,
Talon

[dirtbiker335]

:confused: How does he run a gt7 i hear they keep blowin up i like my GM V12xc

[Moo-Shoe]

He runs them because he gets them for free. :)

I've seen him blow up a couple of GT7's running mod sedan...

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Moo-Shoe
He runs them because he gets them for free. :)

I've seen him blow up a couple of GT7's running mod sedan...

I've never seen a GT7 blow up, yet..

I've seen two LRP's in the last month though, mine, and another. Both up in smoke.

Mine still works, just puffs a little smoke out of the case at WOT. ;)

-Troy

[ImpulseGTP]

Originally posted by TSR6
I've never seen a GT7 blow up, yet..

I've seen two LRP's in the last month though, mine, and another. Both up in smoke.

Mine still works, just puffs a little smoke out of the case at WOT. ;)

-Troy

What kinda motor and gearing were you using when that happen?:eek:

[yokomomr4]

Stick with the Novak TC2 sooo much better. I have found that it performs just as well as the GT7. I feel it is easier to keep from blowing up.

[TSR6]

Monster Stock, geared at 7.55. It's not the motor / gearing. The unit is defective somehow. I just got it back the monday before I poofed it.

I haven't seen a GT7 blow up yet.

-T

[Gutter Ball]

Okay, I rigged up a 486 CPU fan and plugged it into the battery slot on the receiver. Turned on the ESC......the fan spins pretty slowly and the air flow is very minimal, almost none. I see that the fans Kinwald are using are a lot smaller than CPU fans...wonder what kind of fans those are and if they'd work better?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Gutter Ball
Okay, I rigged up a 486 CPU fan and plugged it into the battery slot on the receiver. Turned on the ESC......the fan spins pretty slowly and the air flow is very minimal, almost none. I see that the fans Kinwald are using are a lot smaller than CPU fans...wonder what kind of fans those are and if they'd work better?

What volt / amp specs are on your fan?

[Gutter Ball]

It's a Sunon fan, DC12V...no idea on the amps, says 0.9W. No good?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Gutter Ball
It's a Sunon fan, DC12V...no idea on the amps, says 0.9W. No good?

Just trying to guess if a Batt connection would give out enouch juice to run your motor.

I really don't know :(

I just found a 12v, 2.6a ducted fan out to my dad's shop. Talk about the ultimate motor cooler. I think this thing could power a RC airplane!

-Troy

[kcobra]

Have any of y'all had problems with your XXX-S not staying centered on the steering? It seems like I will wreck and the car will start pulling one way or the other. I wreck again and the car pulls the other way.

Could this be caused by the stock servo saver? I see kindwald does not have a servo saver in the pics. From what I can tell, my car has no binding or excessive slop in the steering assembly and I have replaced all the electrics in the car (i.e. radio, reciever, ESC, motor and servo). Any ideas?

[LouisB]

It probably is the servo saver, it sometimes happens with mine. Either get a new Losi one or get a Kimbrough servo saver. If you don't crash much and have a tough servo then you might be able to get away without a servo saver.

[talon51]

I use a Futaba S9404, and the Losi servo saver with all the springs on it, and its never given me any problems, maybe you got a bum servo saver...

[LouisB]

I've seen a couple wear out, mine lasted over a year on a KO servo before it started doing the exact same thing. Check you've assembled it right, make sure the big plastic washer is on the end.

[yokomomr4]

Hey guys I get a really bad clicking when I turn the wheels either way. I took apart the spindles and c-hubs and when I rotate the CVD it clicks and gets stuck really bad. What can I do to remedy it.

[Lapster]

Hey guys, I am havin a lot of trouble with gearing. I have a

XXX-S
GM V12XC
XXL reciever
trinity r-minus connectors
SMC 2400 atched packs
trinity p2k2 w/ebrushes and polarized springs

I am running my car on a very tight carpet track. I have a 27 tooth pinion with the stock spur. Is it normal to only be able to hold my finger on the motor for about half a second? I have tried gearing down all the way to 24 teeth.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Lapster
Hey guys, I am havin a lot of trouble with gearing. I have a

XXX-S
GM V12XC
XXL reciever
trinity r-minus connectors
SMC 2400 atched packs
trinity p2k2 w/ebrushes and polarized springs

I am running my car on a very tight carpet track. I have a 27 tooth pinion with the stock spur. Is it normal to only be able to hold my finger on the motor for about half a second? I have tried gearing down all the way to 24 teeth.

If you've played with gearing, and the motor is still hot, make sure that your car's drivetrain isnt binding somewhere, and give your motor a fresh re-build.

-Troy

[spenzalii]

Try rebuilding the CVD's. Check and make sure the pin is centered and the grub screw is tightened enough (use a set of allen drivers, not the keys they provide, that won't do it). Check the steering endpoint on the radio, too. The XXX-S will chatter is the wheels are turned too far.

[Lapster]

I found the problem.... the bearing in the end bell of the motor was all screwed up... some balls were missing and the seal was pushed into the middle of the bearing. One of the balls were in the comm also.

[tarvymoto]

P2K2's don't have bearings.

[TSR6]

Interesting...

Tarvy - "special" p2k's do.. :p :p

[tarvymoto]

I always thought about tring a "special" P2K2 but I never had the balls...LOL

And I never had a problem running towards the front with a legal one ;)

[LouisB]

My club allows ball bearings in stock motors for 12th scale. I don't know why but I'm not complaining, especially when some people don't know about the rule:D LOL

[Lapster]

This guy at my hobby shop stuck them in for me.

[daverc]

MY friend, lapster, has a xxx-s. a 10 turn d4, gm v12, 2400 matched pack. that thing goes fast. i want one

[Dj Kumara]

Just got a xxxs GP and first impressions were very good. I don't know about the rest of you I am having incredible problems with the screw parts fitting without burring over.
For example: while I was attaching the underside belt cover three of the screws burred over. I managed to remove two of them (to avoid this TL should have made larger allen wrenches fit the screws- just my opinion).
Also as another example, to avoid burring another screw over anywhere I put the pre-tapping screw through the inner pivot mount three times. I still burred two over.
Can someone please give me some ideas on what to do before it happens again. Has anyone had these problems before, or is it just me?
I'm going to go to town tomorrow to try find some hardware shop replacements. Also are there any companies that produce screwdriver or better quality screws for the xxxs?

Thanks for any help

[AssociatedRacer]

You should invest in a nice set of Allen Wrenches. like theses ones:
http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2002prods/tools.htm
you dont have to get losi, there are cheaper alternatives. When I built my XXX i used Good wrenches(hudy) and didnt really have any problems. Just use the pretapping screws in all the holes, and make sure you go all teh way with it(unless noted otherwise), and you should be good

[TSR6]

red the instructions, use the gold tap-screw.

[Lapster]

How can I reduce the belt skipping when I brake really hard? I know losi says it is normal.... i want to knw if your guys have any tips? Should I tighten my belt a little?

[LouisB]

The belt should skip a few clicks under heavy braking, but to avoid excessive skipping tighten the belt or just don't brake so hard;) If you're running mod (10turn D4?) then you should have the belt fairly tight. I run mine with the tensioner as tight as it will go, but that's with the smaller pulley i the front. Start out with it a bit looser than that.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by LouisB
The belt should skip a few clicks under heavy braking, but to avoid excessive skipping tighten the belt or just don't brake so hard;) If you're running mod (10turn D4?) then you should have the belt fairly tight. I run mine with the tensioner as tight as it will go, but that's with the smaller pulley i the front. Start out with it a bit looser than that.

brakes? What are those?

... my XXX-S used to click, now I don't have enough brakes to make it click. Under hard braking though, it might click once or twice...

[AEcrazyT3]

Hey i am new to the sport and I could use a few tips... Im running the XXX-S RTR with a revenge of the monster stock motor, a 31t pin and a 128 t spr... It is bone stock with the excep of the mods I just mentioned. My question is.. It is really not very fast at all.. I mean I know it has to go faster then this. And when I push it on the ground with a good flick of the wrist it stops almost immeadiatly. What could be the problem? It is really stock RTR out of the box! Please help! I tried a 11D and it was still Really Really slow! What can I do.. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me!

-DJ

[Ortiz]

I dont think that speed control was meant to hold an 11D.. so i hope you had changed that. If you didnt, you probably burnt it up, and that is your problem.

Well, If you havent done so already, you should tear it down completely and rebuild it. It will help you out if you ever break or lose any parts. Maybe something came loose or something..
With a xxx-s taking it apart and putting it back together should take no time at all. It is the easiest car to work on.

[AEcrazyT3]

I guess I forgot to mention that I switched the GM esc with a Super rooster.. Kind of crazy I know but.... So I know that the gear is not toast but.... I guess the only way I can describe the car is really really tight... Like I said, when I set it down and give it a push it will only move an inch before stopping and is some what hard to move. I think this is really affecting performance... what can I do to "free" the cars movement up?

[ImpulseGTP]

Your gearmesh is prolly too tight, try losen it a bit. also check your belt tensioner.....:)

[XXXS_Bubba]

It's probably the belt tension. Every XXXS I've run across has had the belt way too tight. Toothed belts don't need much tension, just enough to keep them on the pulleys. When the motor spins up it'll pull the lower run to the front diff and upper run to the rear diff tight and they won't slip. If you look closely at the geometry of the belt and tensioner you'll realize why it skips on the brakes, it just pushes the slack towards the spur. Not a big deal. Even with the belt skipping I can lock all 4 wheels unless I turn the brake ATV down to about 70%.

Gear mesh, however, needs to be fairly tight. Enough lash to be able to see the spur move while the pinion doesn't is about all you need. Also, make sure the motor is set up so the pinion is below the spur shaft or it could climb out of mesh and eat the spur for lunch. Almost did that today when I forgot to put the motor mount clamp back on (oops, gotta remember not to work on the car after working all day ;)

Mine had suddenly gotten slow, no more than about 35 MPH. Rebuilt both the Monster Pro and D5 8T last night and it's much better now :)

[AEcrazyT3]

Thanks for the help

[Gutter Ball]

Okay, I'm still a noob when it comes to internal gear ratios. My question is does using the 42/41 diff gear combo instead of using 42/42 diff gear combo affect the 1.83 gear ratio?

Reason I'm wondering is because I'm using a 41/41 combo and my XXX-S is a ROCKET off the line! Our track is tight, and doing that gave me the extra "kick" to squeeze out 2 more laps!

So it's weird calculating rollouts and gear ratios because I think running 41/41 changes the internal ratio to something else. No?

Sorry if this is confusing. Can anybody clarify? Thanks.

[XXXS_Bubba]

If you have 41's on both ends, it's 1.878:1.

Personally I think that having different size front and rear pulleys is a bad idea without a center diff. One end is always going to be trying to play catchup, and that'll cost traction.

[Gutter Ball]

Thanks! If you don't mind, how did you figure that out???

[Dj Kumara]

Thanks for the tip to buy good allen wrenches AssociatedRacer, it made all the difference. The car was so easy to build after getting them. Still got to paint the body though.

[XXXS_Bubba]

Gutter Ball,
Pretty easy:

42 (standard diff pulley size) / 1.83 (Stock ratio) = 23 (drive pulley size)

41 (small diff pulley) / 23 (drive pulley) = 1.78

No idea how I screwed up the first one, but it's actually 1.78:1. I went through it 3 times to make sure. I think I might have put the wrong pulley size in there somewhere. I'll just blame it on lack of sleep ;)

However, going with the smaller pulleys should actually degrade bottom end since you get a hair less mechanical advantage. It could be that you were getting so much wheelspin with the stock ratio that it hurt acceleration and the higher ratio isn't spinning the tires as much. I have a similar problem. With a 20t pinion the tires spin at anything over half throttle unless I turn up the traction control, which hurts acceleration once the tires do hook up. I'm going to try a 23t and see how it does. Who says an 8 turn motor has no torque? ;)

[Gutter Ball]

Haha, I was never good at complex math :cool: Oh man, don't tell me going to the smaller internals actually makes my XXX-S slower :/ But the wheel spin does makes some sense....dang it, I'm gonna go back to 42/42 and see if I can still pull the same number of laps. Thanks for the info. I still haven't figured out what kind of fans Kinwald is using to cool his motor/esc though.

[XXXS_Bubba]

It could be that you've gotten better at holding a good line through the track instead of the gearing making a difference. Or it could be that the track benefits from overgearing. Lots of variables. As for the fans, try these:

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=220&item=CF-156&type=store

For $1.25 I'll order a few. I put a TC3 heatsink on last night since my motor has been getting a bit warm lately. Fits just about perfectly and the fan I have stuck to the top of my servo will blow across it after the ESC. Stuck in the 23t pinion and a fresh battery and off I went to the cold, wet, dark street. She can still spin the tires easily, but acceleration is noticably slower. Ok, "slower" isn't quite right. "Less astronomical" is more like it. There's something not normal about being able to gear an 8 turn motor like a stock motor and still keep everything happy. The motor stayed completely cool with the heat sink, so I'm tempted to gear up a bit more and see what happens. Can't wait to see what happens with a brushless motor and 14 cells :)

[Ortiz]

Anyone have any opinions on Kinwalds Asphalt setup??
Good, Bad, To loose??? Weather looks like it might start getting better so I am getting ready for some Asphalt.. Been running carpet for a while.

[Gutter Ball]

XXXS Bubba: thanks for all the info and the link!! :cool: :)

[XXXS_Bubba]

Got 5 of those fans from All Electronics in the mail today (ordered Thursday I think it was) and they look like they'll work perfectly. Today was my son's birthday so I didn't have time to hook it up yet, but I will later tonight. I also need to wire up the blue LEDs I have for foglights so I can actually see the thing while messing around at night ;)

[JR in NC]

If the weather doesn't get better soon I'm considering changing my XXX-S to a power boat. It's hard to come up with a setup for water and ice. I've cosidered running off-road tires,but somehow I don't think that's what the car was setup for.LOL:D Having trouble finding a oneway for my cars, or just using a spool in the front anybody got any ideas?

I'll throw one other question at you can't decide whether to use swaybars or not. With the rubber tire rule for the outdoor on-road Nationals in Durham NCwhether sways are neccessary or not especially after you sauce the tires for traction.

Thanks for any input.

JR

[rc10gtisthebest]

Sorry for posting like this but,;)

I dont have my XXX-S anymore.

I have a like new one-way. I used it about twice. Track wasnt right.
I also have the stock kit rims too.

LMK,
Todd
vansman4689@aol.com

[Ortiz]

how much you want for it??

[rc10gtisthebest]

I had a post on an another board for 30 and I got a lot of hits but nobody actually came though and paid.

So I guess $35 for the one-way and rims plus shipping.

I have as well, brand new Hot-Bodies/Team Orion slicks and inserts. I sell everything with those for 55.

Also I wouldnt mind trading for a decent battery pack or a nice servo. Or a Airtronics super micro receiver if anyone has one.

Todd

[spenzalii]

OH YEAH! The only warm day (62 degrees) out here in the longest time it was itme to pull the ol' girl out for a brief spin. I definately need to reup my equipment! That mega peak plus isn't cutting it anymore, neither are the batts. I also need a caliper and a setup system (integy, perhaps?). But even with some bad HPI X patern tires and a speed gems 9t (on the cheap, I know), it was a blast! I had ZERO traction in the dusty parking lot I was in (I have to dust it off as soon as everything cools), so any true driving was right out. But, hanging the tail out was just what I needed while I wait for the weather to break for good over here! Anybody running 30mm foams out there? I may give them a try when it's all said and done. I also wonder about captured ball ends. Anybody using those? I put a set of GS orange captured ends on my XXX-S just to be different (I had to change the ball studs for the regular ball ends, which was a pain in the butt, since the threads were different, I ended up replacing the knuckles!), but I may take them off.

[JR in NC]

I was updating my XXX-S with a new yellow drive belt and found it did not fit as tightly as the old blue one .Anyone got any suggestions I can't seem to get any tension on the new belt.

Thanks for the help .

JR

[Gutter Ball]

I run my belt a little loose so it doesn't really bother me. But it bugged my friend, so what he did was take a dremel and extended the hole where the hex screwed into by about 3mm.

[TSR6]

You should not need to add extra belt tension. What the kit gives you is fine, ..and accually, maybe too much. I run mine almost all the way loose.

-Troy

[XXXS_Bubba]

Unless you want to kill the spur shaft, idler, and diff bearings, don't tighten the belt too much. I start with the tensioner all the way up (full loose) and traction control off, nail the throttle from a dead stop, and tighten the belt if it slips on acceleration. I have an 8 turn D5 in mine and the belt is completely loose. Sure it makes a funny noise under heavy braking, but it's not going to hurt anything. The belt tightens under acceleration, so running it tight enough that it doesn't slip while on the brakes WILL kill your bearings eventually. It just doesn't need to be tight.

On a different note, I've been messing with tires lately. I usually put a set of HPI X-Pattern non-belted with stock grey foam inserts on there for messing around in the street. Works great, lots of traction on the rough pavement, but they balloon enough to break the glue loose. The stock Losi tires and inserts aren't bad, but a bit too hard of a compound for any hard turns. They slide way too soon. So I picked up a set of soft Medial Pro IAS premounted tires. If you haven't seen these things, they don't use inserts. The inside of the tread is molded with a strange honeycomb rib arrangement. In theory it should be great, but for the street (again, my street is pretty rough) they act like they have super hard foam inserts in there. It was like driving on marbles, even with the suspension as soft as I could get it without bottoming out. Maybe I'll give 'em a shot on the track sometime. Today I picked up a set of HPI 27R compound Advans, red inserts, and 24mm wheels. Much better. They feel like the Losi tires/inserts under heavy acceleration, but they stick a hell of a lot better when I do something silly like crank the wheel over to the lock with the trigger buried. Sure they break loose, but the resulting slide is so controllable that keeping things handled isn't an issue.

Now I just have to find a deal on a brushless motor and controller and see what I can break ;)

[TSR6]

Originally posted by XXXS_Bubba
Unless you want to kill the spur shaft, idler, and diff bearings, don't tighten the belt too much. I start with the tensioner all the way up (full loose) and traction control off, nail the throttle from a dead stop, and tighten the belt if it slips on acceleration. I have an 8 turn D5 in mine and the belt is completely loose. Sure it makes a funny noise under heavy braking, but it's not going to hurt anything. The belt tightens under acceleration, so running it tight enough that it doesn't slip while on the brakes WILL kill your bearings eventually. It just doesn't need to be tight.

On a different note, I've been messing with tires lately. I usually put a set of HPI X-Pattern non-belted with stock grey foam inserts on there for messing around in the street. Works great, lots of traction on the rough pavement, but they balloon enough to break the glue loose. The stock Losi tires and inserts aren't bad, but a bit too hard of a compound for any hard turns. They slide way too soon. So I picked up a set of soft Medial Pro IAS premounted tires. If you haven't seen these things, they don't use inserts. The inside of the tread is molded with a strange honeycomb rib arrangement. In theory it should be great, but for the street (again, my street is pretty rough) they act like they have super hard foam inserts in there. It was like driving on marbles, even with the suspension as soft as I could get it without bottoming out. Maybe I'll give 'em a shot on the track sometime. Today I picked up a set of HPI 27R compound Advans, red inserts, and 24mm wheels. Much better. They feel like the Losi tires/inserts under heavy acceleration, but they stick a hell of a lot better when I do something silly like crank the wheel over to the lock with the trigger buried. Sure they break loose, but the resulting slide is so controllable that keeping things handled isn't an issue.

Now I just have to find a deal on a brushless motor and controller and see what I can break ;)

Do people use the X-patterns and Advan's at your track?

Have you tried any of the Sorex compounds?

[XXXS_Bubba]

I've only been to one of the tracks in town once, and I didn't drive, but most everyone there had slicks since it's a very clean, smooth indoor track. I'm sure someone out there has used treaded tires, though. I need some tread around here thanks to a ton of sand and dust and crap. Haven't tried Sorex. How do they stick?

[Ko Racer]

hey guys can someone help me out i need a good spur /pinon
combo for a stock motor on the GP . the track is a tight asphalt track with one good straight away

thanks

[XXXSSportRacer]

this may sound a little weird, I run some ellegi EV33A w/ 45 shore tires on my losi, and they hook up great on my track, and there are quite a few small rocks and stuff laying around. I get pieces of sand stuck to mi tires after I pick it up off of the track, so they grip really well.

[TSR6]

I've been running sorex for a while now, only taking a break this winter to use the handout, control tire, since I have so many sets of them. :rolleyes: They work very well, just make sure you run the correct tire for the correct heat range. :)

Ko Racer - Hey man! What motor? Right now, my only guess is to start out somewhere around 7.0 ... 7.5 somewhere in there, and keep an eye on the motor, change gearing as needed. but, that is a guess

[Ko Racer]

Originally posted by TSR6
I've been running sorex for a while now, only taking a break this winter to use the handout, control tire, since I have so many sets of them. :rolleyes: They work very well, just make sure you run the correct tire for the correct heat range. :)

Ko Racer - Hey man! What motor? Right now, my only guess is to start out somewhere around 7.0 ... 7.5 somewhere in there, and keep an eye on the motor, change gearing as needed. but, that is a guess

What up TSR6:D hey i got me some new motors form light speed with the epic can there stock motors and im still learning this G+.
are new local hobby shop is wanting to run a stock class and i have gone brain dead on what to gear them :confused:

[XXXS_Bubba]

I have a 23t pinion and 88t spur with a Monster Horsepower Pro. Drives very smoothly since the Monster doesn't have the violent, wheel-spinning torque the D5 has.

[Ko Racer]

Originally posted by XXXS_Bubba
I have a 23t pinion and 88t spur with a Monster Horsepower Pro. Drives very smoothly since the Monster doesn't have the violent, wheel-spinning torque the D5 has.

thank you for info but im trying to stay with the 128 spur if possible . my understanding that is used the most for all type of racing stock and mod. someone correct me if im wrong here so i know ;)

[JR in NC]

Regardless of what spur you want to use, you still need to pay attention to your FDR(final drive ratio). So if you run a 128 spur w/a 33 pinion 128/33=3.87x1.83=7.098,however if you use a 88 spur and a 26 pinion88/26=3.38=6.1854. My point is that a spur gear is only part of the equation. Also, remember I believe the reccomended fdr on a Monster is between 7.0and 7.5

[TSR6]

The 128 spur is what most guys use..

Ko - talk to the other guys, see what ratio they run, and gear close to that... then monitor your motor, see what it does.. If all else fails, you might need to just practice, and adjust your ratio every little bit to see what is going to cook it, and what is just right. ;)

[XXXS_Bubba]

Ahh, gotcha. I stuck with the 88 since that's what came with the car and I have all 48 pitch pinions. I used to shred 64 pitch gears left and right with my 10LSS and got tired of the expense. The slight advantage in efficiency and gear ratio precision isn't worth it in my case, but I don't race competitively.

[yeeehaw]

I just got mine today. I am propably going to add my futaba radio and a novak c-10 esc I think that is what it is called.
is this a good combo? I really like the looks of this car I need to clean it up though. I also added a 13 double motor from speed works for those mains. I think I will do around 30-45 mph. I guess I am back into cars :D
Matt

[XXXS_Bubba]

Futaba is good stuff, stick with it. An S3003 servo is maybe a hair slow for steering, but more than likely you won't be using full throw (I have the rate set at about 60%), so it should be fine. Haven't heard of the C-10, but I have a Novak in mine (Dually). Works great. Just picked up a Speed Gems 2 Pro Titanite (15 double) today. Seems like a very good motor for this chassis and how I drive.

[rc10gtisthebest]

bubba, where'd u fit the dually? I had to mount my on the servo.

[Gutter Ball]

My friend used a Novak Racer temporarily. He had to move the receiver to the back of the car and then he put the ESC in front of the motor, behind the servo.

[XXXS_Bubba]

Same here. Receiver is behind the motor (case removed, covered in heat shrink), Dually is between the servo and motor. All the wires are zip tied together so it's not too much of a mess.

[yeeehaw]

Alrighty then I have cleaned up my car. I am going to buy the Duratrax streak esc Futaba gear, and a 27 turn -13 double for the power. I am going to also purchase the Trinity spec2k 6 cell stick pack, and the Duratrax ac/dc piranha peak charger.
I think I have about 100.00 dollars to go, maybe less.
good luck and happy racing.
Matt

[yeeehaw]

When I install either my 27 or 13 turn motor you can feel the motor try to jurk the gearing around when there is no power appleid( the less windings the worse) is this normall, when I shove the car it works normall( no jurking) and when power is appled it is running great. do I need to pull apart somthing?
which class should I race in and is my motors a good choice and is stock gearing good for the 13 turn motor's torquey charecteristics?

Matt

[XXXS_Bubba]

I've heard good and bad things about the Streak. Originally I planned on buying one, but the motor limit and reports of the things blowing up randomly pushed me to Novak and I couldn't be more happy. Sure it was substantially more expensive, but it's worth every penny. It's built like a tank, handles any motor I can throw at it short of brushless, and has every feature I need except easily replacable wiring. For the battery, save some money and go to Radio Shack for either a 2400 NiCd or 3000 NiMH. I have one of each, both torn apart and rebuilt with Deans bars, 12 ga. wiring, and Deans Ultra connectors, and they both give me well over 6 minutes of driving even with my 8t D5 and a 20t pinion. I'm not sure what the 2400's cells are, but the 3000's are GP300SCHs, very sturdy, reliable cells. The 2400s are around $25 and the 3000s around $35. Both are sold as normal shotgun packs, which will fit the XXXS by flipping the battery strap over. Good choice on the charger, though. I debated between the Pirhana Digital and Intellipeak Digital and have decided on the Intellipeak since it'll autocycle and tell the mAH delivered to the pack (good for keeping track of a pack's health). The jerking you feel is cogging. It's caused by the armature seeking a magnetic balance point in the magnets' fields. Very normal. There is no real "right" pinion for any particular motor, just guidelines to start with. I started with a 16t on my D5 and 20t on my Monster Pro, then went to 20t on the D5 and 23t on the Monster. I'd say that between 21t and 23t would be good for the stock motor and around 20t to 22t for the 13 turn, but it depends on how and where you drive. Last thing, you might want to put a heatsink on the motor (I used a long TC3 sink, but a Tamiya is actually better) and a fan, blowing towards the back, on top of the servo. Check www.allelectronics.com for fans. I picked up 5 40mm 5v fans pretty cheap a couple of weeks ago and they work perfectly when plugged into the BEC socket on the receiver. As a side note, if anyone wants one, I'll have a few fans complete with a JST plug and servo tape from hell (I can pick up the car by the fan no problem) for around $10 each.

[yeeehaw]

Well I would have gone with the novak but I am pretty well broke. and plus my Dad might buy the esc for me. I figured it was just the motor cogging but I wasn't exactly sure. I will definately try the fan out. couldn't you use the 3rd channel socket for the fan unit and it will be turned on buy your transmitter. I will either go with my futaba t-2ph radio or go to a 3 channel radio.
thanks alot
Matt

[XXXS_Bubba]

Radios don't work quite that way. You can pull power out of the receiver through a servo or BEC socket, which is how I wired in my fan, but you can't control it without an extra gizmo in there. No really worth the expensive. The fan only draws 110 mA and it really needs to be on all the time anyway, so the way it's set up now is about perfect. It comes on when I flip the ESC's switch.

The 2PHKA radio is pretty nice for the price. It's what I'm using. In my opinion EPA on both channels and steering rate adjust should be madatory these days. Makes setting up the steering and brakes a piece of cake. JR's XR2 is also worth looking at. $15 or so more, but it's a computer radio and has 2 memories. I'm thinking about a Lynx sometime in the next couple of months, but haven't decided if I really need it.

[XXXS_Bubba]

Does anyone know of an online shop that carries .28" threaded shock bodies? I could use a pair on the front, with stock shafts, to fix a bottoming out problem I'm having. Right now the rod end on the bottom of the shaft hits the bottom of the cartridge before the chassis hits the ground. This makes for a bit of a shock when I hit a big bump in the street. Not a good thing.

[Ortiz]

try KT hobbies or Superior Hobbies....

[TSR6]

www.kthobbies.com

Kraig is a nice guy, Tell him I said "hey".

-Troy

[dirtbiker335]

Hey if you guys are racing stock i would try the quantum sport o