Nitro MT and MT Racer Forum

[RoadRash]

I forgot about spare front arms as jobesfzr has stated, mainly do to the fact that I have yet to break a arm. I do have spares though, you never know?

When you get board of the lower power of the .15fe, upgrade the manifold to the t-maxx header for sure, the look into the power packages from HPI for the FE. Otherwise go with a new motor.

By this time you will be on your way to a butt load of money being spent on hopups as the rest of us NMT owns have.

Have fun!!:D

[kedar]

Quad Metal Brake Disk Conversion (http://www.kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html#quad)

http://www.kedar.itgo.com/quadbrakestop.JPG

[kedar]

Top hop-ups for stock NMT:
1) air filter
2) fuel filter
3) performance clutch
4) fiber brake disk (or consider a metal brake disk conversion)
5) header (t-maxx, t-maxx big tube, or CEN)

Next 5 great hop-ups:
6) 2 speed or slipper clutch
7) tuned pipe (Associated, Paris Turbo Ring, CVEC, Novarossi)
8) titanium turnbuckles and RPM heavy duty ball cups
9) aluminum upper deck (better than the graphite upper deck)
10) upgraded servo (Hitec offers the greatest "bang for the buck")

Other must have's:
11) Performance Engine
12) anti-sway bars
13) upgraded shock towers (preferably titanium over aluminum)
14) failsafe and/or throttle return spring
15) receiver cover

when it comes to headers, there's no substitute for the
New Jersey Big Tube Header (http://www.hobbyshopnj.com/header.html)

http://www.kedar.itgo.com/kedarsrcden.jpg (http://www.kedar.itgo.com/rc.html)

[StephenB]

Did anyone read my "Supershop" article for the MT Racer in Nitro magazine? Curious what the MT guys around here thought of the parts if THEY'VE installed them on their trucks too...did you find the article useful?

[kawamatt]

I must have missed that article.

But about a 2 speed. If i were to get one but still want to go some offroad could i just lock second gear out? Or does it always engage no matter how you adjust the screw? I am meaning like even if you were to lock it out as far as it goes would it still enage at max rpm?

thanks for replies.

[kedar]

StephenB - was that the article w/ the hopped-up NMT Racer and Rush (not the monster machine .21-powered NMT).

if so, then why didn't you hop-up the header? in my opinion the stock header is pretty restrictive and that any aftermarket header would have significant gains. there is no mention of the header in the article or in the parts list. the header is also conspicuously missing from the photos.

[new2nitro]

StephenB-make sure to get your springs on right;)(pg82)

i have a couple questions for you:

1. how do the HPI super shocks compare to other aluminum shock such as the Associated, or Kyosho Twin Cap Pros?

2.how do you like the graphite upper deck? does it seem brittle at all or does it greatly stiffen the chassis?

Thanks

[kedar]

where did StephenB go?

new2nitro - as a matter of preference i would go for the aluminum upper deck over the graphite radio tray b/c the aluminum one covers the entire upper deck. the advantages of this are: 1) super-stiff chassis, 2) servos mounted to something solid (unlike the wobbly radio tray), 3) looks real trick, 4) and they cost about the same. of course the disadvantages are that you lose the removable radio tray, but that's ok, you don't need it, and i would say that the benefits outweigh the disadvantages.

[StephenB]

Sorry, haven't checked in here lately----

New2nitro, you're right; didn't even notice that little spring misalignment 'till today when I looked at the photo. You guys don't miss anything! Sometimes stuff like that happens when the cars are handled by several people before photos... :rolleyes:

About the graphite uppder deck--it's awesome. Stiffens the chassis ten-fold, and is very durable. The only way I see that piece ever breaking is if your truck gets run over by a full-size car. The difference in flex between the "stock" MT and the upgraded MT w/the graphite deck is astronomical.

The aluminum deck looks nice too, but I'm more partial to graphite because 1) it's lighter, 2)when graphite flexes, it returns to perfectly true again (whereas metal can bend & stay bent!), and 3) I like the removable radio tray option. The choice is yours.

The HPI Super Shocks are some of the smoooooothest shocks I've ever built. They're very high quality, and easy to maintain. I prefer the HPI units over Associated shocks, and they're comparable to Kyosho shocks but slightly cheaper. Plus, the HPI units just look so nice.

[gabesnmt]

KEDAR do you do endos when you hit the brakes...:eek:

[kedar]

gabesnmt - no, my truck does not go end over end when i hit the brakes. i do turn my brakes down a bit so that i can stop and slow down for turns consistently. my truck does stop on a dime though.

StephenB - did you upgrade the stock header on the NMT?

[jesse370]

I was considering a .21 swap but don't want to have to always be putting new parts in the truck....My nmt with a hpi-nova is plenty fast. My truck is almost to the point where I can call it done.....I need a set of shocks, and hpi universals for the rears. And a hd chassis mine is tweaked bad!!! And maybe a few sets of tires for what ever I feel like playing in.

[StephenB]

Kedar, yes I installed a TRX T-Maxx header on the NMT, but for some reason it wasn't in the parts list. Also, given the angle of the photo in the mag, you couldn't see it :rolleyes:

[DTRAX]

I have a HPI Nitro MT, with nitro star .15FE engine. It only has a high speed adjustment. The low has no external adjustment. The reason i know it is too rich is very very good smoke at idle and low speeds, boggy off the line and the fuel line pinch test at idle was about 7 sec. also goes threw fuel fast. Is there an internal adjustment that can be done? Thanks

[TopKatz]

This is a little video of nmt with its new picco .15. The truck has 48t spur and 15t bell. These are 1/2 to 3/4 throtel burst runs at about 10 tanks. This motor is a low end monster!! At the end you see it is running in the target range of 200 degres!

210 video! (http://www.intercityinc.com/nmt/210.mov)

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

how many gallons of full do you need to use till the dirt hawgs become bald?

[gabesnmt]

Hey my friend just put a HB .18 in his NMT and we have run about six tanks through it and are just starting to run it fast. Well that is what it is, FAST, it got dark so we never got it to wot but tomorrow we will. I'll let you know how it works.

[harley1874666]

well here it is my pride and joy there are some retrofit parts and upgrades

-titanium turnbuckles
-Masher 2000 tires
-Super Star deep offset wheels
-Dubro fuel filter
-backflow valve for the pressure line
-anodized cooling head
-ABC sleeve w/ piston & lightened connecting rod
-5.5 carburetor
-Motor Saver Filter
-rear exhaust system (homemade)
-fiber disc brake
-aluminum spur gear cover (homemade)
-CVEC pipe (took out the piston)
-adjustable body posts from the super nitro to raise the body
-drilled new mounts for the rear suspension to raise the rear
-super shocks
-losi wheel adapters to widen the stance (kinda tricky)
-new HPI Ford body

this is my first nitro r/c i have had it for a little over a year now. i have not run it with the major changes yet (i hate the cold weather) anyway tell me what you guys think.

[gabesnmt]

Looks sweet, do you run the stock gearing w/ those tires?

[harley1874666]

yeah i still have the stock gears. i didnt think they needed to be changed. it still has pretty good top end, bogs a little in the low and midrange, i'm still trying to fine tune. it can climb suprisingly well also.

[gabesnmt]

Hey, I didn't notice that you are from Sparks. I am originally from Reno, and I come up once or twice a month. Maybe we can go racing around sometime.
Heres a pic of my truck in pieces, I am replacing my slipper clutch and a couple other things but it will be running again soon.

[DTRAX]

I have an NMT , the .15fe is way underpowered I have done resurch and decided that OS will be my choice. The guy in the race shop at the track says the OS .15 cv will have plenty of power but has the standard cooling head so I could upgrade the head or just go with the OS .15 CVR. I am worried this motor will rip my stock drivetrain. Anybody running these engines in a NMT ?

[harley1874666]

the .15 FE is not way underpowered as long you know how to set it up. :p

anyway the reason i'm posting again, does anyone know any brand rims other than HPI that will fit on the NMT?

[DTRAX]

Okay then tell me this, how else do you set it up. New NMT, break in engine exactly per instructoins no hard run till about 10 tanks.
Now at 20 tanks, if I run the high speed needle (only one) lean enough that it doesn't take full throttle 10 seconds to accelerate off the line it will run 300+ so then back to richer = no power, and at full throttle on the track not enough power to jump 2 small woop-dee-doo's and sucks gas twice as fast as any other truck. Also brakes aren't draging and throttle has full range.
Compression feels good too. I am not trashing NMT, I like the truck so then what's up.

[harley1874666]

woah DTRAX i.m not trying to insult your integrity at all. i'm just saying at the time before i rebuilt the engine the only hop-up i had on my truck was the HPI aluminum tuned pipe and a Motor Saver Filter. the .15 FE still had the same crap ABN sleeve and piston and i estimated the speed of the truck to be around 40 MPH and that was plenty fast for me. i was running the suggested adjustments on that same P.O.S. stock carb. and it had enough power off the line. although later i had a wierd problem with the engine revving but the truck not going anywhere. that was just the bolts on the drive shaft comming loose but locktite fixed that. after awhile i also was running in between 300 to 400 degrees so i changed the head and driving habits a little. go figure mach 3 across a 300 foot length of blacktop in 80 degree weather will make an engine overheat ;). anyway i didn't maen to come across as an a--hole. :D

[DTRAX]

It's okay harley this is all in fun. Anyway I didn't want to give up on the fe ether, I did modify the carb internally by cuting a small air bypass and this did much improve idle/ off line and fuel economy. Next would be a new carb @ air filter, cooling head, maby piston set, and the pipe like you said probably too. Oh ya and a racing clutch. At this cost I figured it may be cheaper to get a new engine as I said earlier OS .15 cv /cvr

[harley1874666]

hey DTRAX HPI has a stage 3 upgrade in the speed shop of the Buy HPI section of their website. it comes with the ABC sleeve and piston, lightened connecting rod, 5.5 carburetor, and cooling head with all the screws and hardware for like 80 bucks. which is a hell of alot cheaper than buying it all seperate. but for a little bit more you can get a completely new engine with more power as you obviously know. just thought i would let you know

[gabesnmt]

Harley... some cool looking rims are the RPM Clawz # 81773 at Tower, there like 9.50 a pair w/ the adapters.
I don't know if you noticed but I am from Reno but live in So Cal now and come up there every once in a while so mabey we can go jumping our trucks or something.

[harley1874666]

hey gabesnmt maybe we will have to hook up sometime and go bashing. thanks for the tip on the rims i do like the clawz but i was thinking more along the lines of a 3.2 like the t-maxx wheels i have seen with the t-maxx size masher tires. my wheels with tires are about 4 3/4 inches tall and the t-maxx wheels with tires are like 5 1/2. but i need a wheel with a deep offset no less than the deep offset superstar wheels i have now. i'm not sure if i actually want to go that big but it's something to think about for a future project.

[DTRAX]

I tried to post a picture but i haven't figured how to yet. I know i've been going crazy trying to figure out the fe on my NMT, still trying some tweeks, and i'll run on the lean side and when she goes I will upgrade the motor. Will a non pull start engine and a ofna starter box work on the NMT. The flywheel is inset the chassis a bit, not flush. Thanks

[billylh]

just curious, but if you have a rear exhaust engine, what header will work with it?

[somedude2187]

you need this header


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXTB62&P=7

[Matlock]

Hey guys. I'm going to start racing my NMT off-road in a couple of weeks and would like to know if anybody had any tips for me. I have a couple hop-ups on my truck, but I know that it is the driver that wins race's not the car.


Thanks

[Leinzey]

Captured ball ends are good if you don't run into the boards too often, lusford turnbuckes, and definately stainless steel hingeins. Those are the only real durability items I can think of right off hand. Aluminum shock caps would be a good idea to keep them from popping off when landing off of the bigger jumps. And as I'm sure you already know, get out there and practice, and work on setting up the truck. Oh yeah, good luck!

[Matlock]

I have alot on my truck right now. Here is a list of what I have:

NMT
Futaba Magnum Jr FM
OS .15CV-X
Slipper clutch
Pro-Line bow-tie m3 & m2
Pro-Line masher 2000 with rpm rims
T-Maxx header
Associated pipe(Plain)
Blue alum. uprights
SS hinge pins with rear brace
Ti turnbuckles with rpm ball cups
Ti front shock tower
Duratrax shocks
Springs blue hard, white soft, purple super hard
Racer fuel tank
Powerline 4mm chassis
Heavy duty rear gears
Venom VTM
Switch and receiver cover
Fuel filter
New fuel lines
New servo saver
11, 12, 13, 14 tooth clutch bells

[SleepyGMan]

Hey! I got a NMT Racer a few weeks ago. So far its the outta the box Racer, with the .15SS NitroStar motor and a motorsaver air filter. I am having a few problems, though. I am mostly racing around on the driveway and in the grass. If I am doing anything over half throttle and turn, the car flips right over. Also, if I clip a tree or a root, I keep breaking the arm that holds the front tire onto the car at the hinge point. I know the obvious answer is to quit clipping trees, but is there a stronger arm or a bumper available for the NMT. As for the first problem about flipping, are there sway bars available, or do I have it set up wrong. My buddy has a Rush and we'll be booking along side by side, and his two wheel drive will take a corner and my 4WD will flip over in the same place. Thanks for any help.

[harley1874666]

aside from aluminum a-arms, if you boil the stock a-arms for 10 minutes they are more forgiving

[gabesnmt]

You said that your truck is pretty much a stock racer so you have blue front springs right? Well make sure you don't run a very big spacer on top of the spring because this makes the front very stiff and might be causing the truck to flip when you try to turn hard because there is no lean in the chassis when you turn. Mabey I am wrong but also check your shock position on the a-arm, if you are running on mostly street you might want to lower your truck a little by moving the shocks closer to the tires. In the rear you can do the same on the a-arm but you can also move them out on the tower for more tuning.

[fezzy]

Hi guys, first time posting in the thread...I am on the hpiracing 100% of the time :D

If your having problems keeping your truck on or 4 (or 3 ;)) Wheels going round a corner its probably because your suspension is too stiff... I love my current suspension setup, 50wt shock oil round, black springs on the back with a 8mm preload, blue springs no the front with 0 preload... works very well on-road and some light off-roading, if you are doing harder off-roading then i'd recommend 50wt shock oil all round, either black or blue springs at the rear (black for better handling, blue for jumping) and at the back with whichever springs you use run a 11mm preload and for the front, blue springs with a 4mm preload.

Works excellently....

I have some stuff on my NMT at the momment, 3 weeks time and i should have a nova rossi engine, slipper clutch, HD outdrives, heatsink engine mounts and a light-weight P/S flywheel. ATM though this is what i'm running....

Masher 2000 Tyres mounted on Duratrax Maximum ST rims painted Blue
T-Maxx header
Associated Purple Anodised Pipe
50WT Shock Oil all Round
Blue/Black Springs
RX Cover
TRX15 PRO Head on a 15FE
New Fuel Lines
Venom Temp Monitor....

[SleepyGMan]

Thanks for the replies. I broke another front arm, so I replaced both with the aluminum ones. Talk about improvement. A buddy colided his Duratrax Overdrive with my MT (he hit me, I didn't hit him...) and both his front arms broke. My MT wasn't fazed at all. I also changed the spacer on the front shocks and changed the mounting for much better handling.

I have a couple of new questions for the group. First, I am running with the HPI .15SS motor. The way I have it tuned now, it runs great when I first start it up. After it gets hot, though, it really bogs down. The top end is still good, but when I slow down or stop, I can stomp the throttle and it takes a while (4-5 seconds) to get going again. Is this a tuning problem, and if so, how do I go about fixing it? Second, how do I know the slipper clutch is set up right? Should I have the nut backed up a ways, so that it slips a lot, or fairly tight, so it doesn't slip at all? I put it together per the manual, but I really don't know how to tell if it is working properly.

[Team J and J]

ooops sorry :(

[Matlock]

Hey guys. I have a race May 4! I can't wait. There are a couple of guys there that have NMT's to! And it is the biggest off-road track in Iowa! Can't wait:D



Team J and J- This isn't a thread for DuraTrax cars/trucks, so please post that else where.

[chanes9]

Will trade a comp. plus some cash, for a nitro truck

Pentium3
256sdr ram
15gig hard drive
DVD Player
CD/RW
100mb zip drive
Sidewinder Controler
And games.

Let me know

[fezzy]

I finally got some new pics of my truck, taken today....

http://www.steel-dragon.co.uk/ash/nmt.jpg
http://www.steel-dragon.co.uk/ash/nmt2.jpg
http://www.steel-dragon.co.uk/ash/nmt3.jpg
http://www.steel-dragon.co.uk/ash/nmt4.jpg
http://www.steel-dragon.co.uk/ash/nmt5.jpg
http://www.steel-dragon.co.uk/ash/nmt6.jpg

[Matlock]

Nice truck ASH;) I just have to get myself a digi cam.

[markanda]

Originally posted by blegris
I was wondering have any of you rigged a linkage setup or know where you can buy one for a slide carb?

Mista H :cool:

This linkage is out of stock EVERYWHERE just about....
Read this

Backorders @ HPI (http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=31697)

[DTRAX]

I have the same Question


I finaly got it a new OS .15 hyper, slide carb, non pull for my HPI nitro monster truck. It's installed and all that is left is the throttle and brake linkages. A while back I asked if this would work and the responce was yes, rotate the throttle servo 180 and the existing linkages should work. Well I spun the servo around but the linkage??? I need someone who has done this to help me out and a picture would be great. Thanks

[markanda]

Dtrax - I just installed my Hyper OS 15 CVX in my NMT and I did the following to FINALLY get the linkage to work. Put the servo back in its orginal position, then (assuming you have the HPI Slide Throttle Linkage Kit) use the proper L horn for your servo (by mfg) then look at the pix in these pix..even though they are on a rotary look at the way they have the rod and linkage setup for the throttle - use that hardware for that setup and it works !
If you need more help - Just ask !

Mark
slide thread (http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=29886)

[DTRAX]

markanda, thanks for the quick responce, now i'll work with that. How's the hyper running for you I am coming from the FE.

[markanda]

Originally posted by DTRAX
markanda, thanks for the quick responce, now i'll work with that. How's the hyper running for you I am coming from the FE.

By the way you will have to loosen your carb and turn it to get the positioning that you will need to actuate that setup.

You will be very happy coming from the FE. It will be like day and night for you. I was dealing with the linkage problem for a while. Once i resolved it and a slipper clutch issue - it screams. Watch out for the CVD pins too !

Good luck
Mark

[markanda]

DTRAX - you must EPA for the slide throttle install to work at all !

[DTRAX]

Okay, Markanda what is EPA? I did get it the linkage installed thanks for the help. I used the ofna throttle linkage kit and the pictures on the post, it works great sitting here. I am waiting for the starter box that was on back order which came in yesterday and was sent today so i'll see it in about a week!

[jcnmt]

end point adjustment

[DTRAX]

Dooaaa, OK. Sometimes this thread is KINDA QUIET. Starter box came in. The truck runs great and now I can see the daylight. :D

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

what do you guys recommend? 15CVR or 15FR?

[hopTupMT]

Well, I bought a Nitro MT off guy and got a good deal on it..only problem is i'm continuously stripping gears. I went out yesterday and figured out that my pilot shaft had bit of loctite buildup on it. Ran truck for full tank, re-fueled and back out again....not riding hard at all as i'm beginner and just learning to control truck (with dogbones out of front end for now - waiting for another part).

I ran for while on second tank of fuel, then on back stretch there is little drop off that i hit and back end was bouncing around - next thing i know ANOTHER spur gone.

I can't find a slipper clutch for the MT as everywhere is back ordered - should i just park the truck until I get this slipper clutch; and will that be the cure to all this prob?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I did make spur cover for the bottom out of Budwieser beer can

ps. - have a 2 speed that was in it to begin with (was racing it on road)...I've seen not to use this 2 speed on offroad; thinking maybe i could sell it or trade for parts - any suggestions (reasonable ones )

[SleepyGMan]

I'm fairly new to this hobby, so my thoughts on the stripped spur gear may not be complete as I have yet to strip the one on my NMT. It sounds as if there may be more going on than what a slipper clutch will solve. My buddy had similar problems with his Rush, where it was eating spurs left and right, with the slipper operating correctly. The problem turned out to be two-fold. First his engine mounts had become loose, so when he stomped on it the motor would pull away from the spur. Second, his chassis was flexing due to the torque from the motor, causing the clutch and spur to separate. Any time the spur and clutch pull away from one another, bye bye spur.

[Skribble]

Well, seems like my Losi XXX isn't fast enough and I don't want to run/maintence mod, so the Nitro MT looks perfect. Here's my list so far from Tower:

HPI Nitro MT Racer
HPI Nitro Star .15SS
Airtronics MX-3 Radio
Total: $560
---------------
Glow Igniter
Fuel Bottle
Nitro Fuel
Tire Glue
Batteries
Total: Est. $60

Some questions:
- What other things do I need?
- Is FM a must?
- What springs should I get?
- Is the gearing ok?
- Do I immediately need a Slipper Clutch?
- Is a Servo Saver needed?

Thanks in advance.

[hopTupMT]

Originally posted by SleepyGMan
I'm fairly new to this hobby, so my thoughts on the stripped spur gear may not be complete as I have yet to strip the one on my NMT. It sounds as if there may be more going on than what a slipper clutch will solve. My buddy had similar problems with his Rush, where it was eating spurs left and right, with the slipper operating correctly. The problem turned out to be two-fold. First his engine mounts had become loose, so when he stomped on it the motor would pull away from the spur. Second, his chassis was flexing due to the torque from the motor, causing the clutch and spur to separate. Any time the spur and clutch pull away from one another, bye bye spur.

I'm curious if this is problem as well. I have found a slipper clutch so i'm going to see if that solves the problem. I am using a Novarossi 12 motor and have not remounted my 15FE yet...was thinking of it today. I need pullstart for the FE so didn't really wanna go that route. I will try with slipper clutch and see if that fixes the problem - if not than i'm going to put 15fe back on, is there way to fix the 'flexing'? I'm new so not sure of options really :)

The motor mounts are tight - i dbl check them everytime i run it.

btw - I have the 4mm chassis installed; not sure if that would help prevent some of the flexing.

slipper clutch is must have regardless so see what it does i guess!

thx for reply

[Chris10000]

Originally posted by Skribble
Well, seems like my Losi XXX isn't fast enough and I don't want to run/maintence mod, so the Nitro MT looks perfect. Here's my list so far from Tower:

HPI Nitro MT Racer
HPI Nitro Star .15SS
Airtronics MX-3 Radio
Total: $560
---------------
Glow Igniter
Fuel Bottle
Nitro Fuel
Tire Glue
Batteries
Total: Est. $60

Some questions:
- What other things do I need?
- Is FM a must?
- What springs should I get?
- Is the gearing ok?
- Do I immediately need a Slipper Clutch?
- Is a Servo Saver needed?

Thanks in advance.

The MT Racer already comes with a Slipper Clutch, almost worth buying the Racer for that reason alone. FM is better than AM but not necessary. I would stick with the MX-3, it looks like a nice radio. You might want to get some Blue(Hard) springs for the rear. The truck comes with a decent steering servo saver, but there is room for improvement. Gearing is pretty fast stock, good acceleration too. I would reccommend getting the HPI Slide Carb linkage set, easier to set up, and improves braking power. Fuel Filter and better air filter(motor savers) are a must. Receiver cover, titanium turnbuckles and heavy-duty ball cups would be some other important items at the top of my list. JMO.

[new2nitro]

pretty sure you dont need a linkage kit as one comes w/ the Racer.

[markanda]

Originally posted by new2nitro
pretty sure you dont need a linkage kit as one comes w/ the Racer.

The one that comes with the Racer is for a rotary carb. You need the hardware that comes with the Slide kit or you can check out the many threads about this on the HPI FORUM.

Mark

[nmtr13]

I have a prob and i need help. Whenever i jump my mt it does a swan dive and tumbles all over the place. Whats wrong? Is the car or is it just my driving?:confused:
I really need help.:(

[Skribble]

What would be an estimated speed for a stock Nitro MT Racer with Nitro Star .15SS & 2-speed? :confused: Also, is there any comparable engines to the .15SS for around $150?

[nmtr13]

Could u put a .40 in a mt? How?

[DTRAX]

How much benefit would there be replacing tie rods/turnbuckles with adjustable ones for NMT. And what would I adjust them to from stock lenghts!

[Skribble]

.40?! I don't think the tranny would last very long. :confused:

Edit: Typo.

[tHe cOokIe]

how fast would the racer go with the associated .15?

would the racer be worth an extra 100 dollars than a stock stadium truck??(rc10gt team built)

[Leinzey]

I think he was talking about a 4-stroke. I'm sure it's possible. Check out the July 2001 issue of RC Nitro. It should help you out some. You'll probably find more info on HPI's forum.

[tHe cOokIe]

if i put masher 2000 on the racer, would it look like a monster truck?

[Skribble]

Well, what is your definition of MT? A truck with big wheels then sure it will. :D

[nmtr13]

No im not talking about a 4-stroke, im talking about a 2-stroke. I have a 2-stroke on my plane (that i dont and never will fly) and was juz wonderin if i could take it off and put on my mt. I prob wont try cuz i dun wanna f*** up my car. (Exuse my french)

[nmtr13]

What is a good aluminum hop-up to get after u get all the basic stuff(new air filter,fuel filter.....), already have cvds cuz i got the racer. I waz thinking about the aluminum bumper because im alwayz crashin and breaking a-arms. But then I worry its gonna bend(and if i get al. a-arms they will bend). How easy is it to bend it back?
O yea I forgot, I will prob get new aluminum shocks be4 i get that stuff.
Decisions, decisions.....

[SleepyGMan]

I broke three a-arms and then got the aluminum ones. Those things are awesome. The NMT handles as good as or better than before and I've had a few collisions that would've killed the plastic arms that didn't faze the truck at all with the aluminum arms. I still have the stock shocks on there, though I intend to go for the aluminum ones. That will probably be a winter project, though. I looked into the bumper/skid plate, but I don't know if that will make the front end too heavy. I don't want it to nose over when I jump it. Does anyone out there have the bumper kit? How does it affect the performance of the truck?

[nmtr13]

Ask kedar, he has a bumper and evry hop-up on his mt.

[nmtr13]

What happened to this thread? It died.
Is any1 else having the same problem that i am have with the pilot shaft cracking? Whats wrong?

[tHe cOokIe]

whta would be the best .12 engine for the NMT for racing? any suggestions?

[jcnmt]

picco p12

[tHe cOokIe]

does that apply for the racer? what other suggestions? how bout the evo 2 or cx12?

[markanda]

Originally posted by nmtr13
What happened to this thread? It died.
Is any1 else having the same problem that i am have with the pilot shaft cracking? Whats wrong?

I have never seen a cracked pilot shaft take a pic !

Mark

[tHe cOokIe]

why is it the hpi says not to use the 2 speed offroad? what problems are caused and how do u fix it?

on raod, how fast would the racer go w/ os cvr and a two speed?

[markanda]

Originally posted by tHe cOokIe
why is it the hpi says not to use the 2 speed offroad? what problems are caused and how do u fix it?

on raod, how fast would the racer go w/ os cvr and a two speed?

You have no idea of how fast the MT can be.....I have a two speed stripped both gears today with some hard running but I just love it !

[tHe cOokIe]

how do u prevent the stipping?

[markanda]

Originally posted by tHe cOokIe
how do u prevent the stipping?

Prevention of stripping :

1) Make sure engine screws have been treated with thread lock.
2) Check gear mesh frequently (especially after flipping(
3) Never take the two speed off road. (HPI advice)

Good Luck

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

OMG Cookie, can you never decide on a car? Jesus Christ, I have seen your questions on like a million posts and threads in different forums, and I am getting slightly annoyed!:mad:

The question "how fast" is one of the most commonly asked questions on public RC forums, and is also very much the most annoying :rolleyes:

[nmtr13]

lol

[nmtr13]

Originally posted by markanda


I have never seen a cracked pilot shaft take a pic !

Mark
i dont mean the pilot shaft on the engine, i mean the shaft thats in the stearing. In the instruction book its called a pilot shaft 4x30mm and the # is 72001.

[tHe cOokIe]

Originally posted by uDi_NMT ® ü l z
OMG Cookie, can you never decide on a car? Jesus Christ, I have seen your questions on like a million posts and threads in different forums, and I am getting slightly annoyed!:mad:

The question "how fast" is one of the most commonly asked questions on public RC forums, and is also very much the most annoying :rolleyes:

i am just rying to decide on what car i want. dont have a cow. also, i ask how fast it can go because if it can go 45 at full throttle then i can go 40 w/o burning my engine up.

[Gravedigger]

WOO HOO!!!

I finally got my NMT last Sunday and took about 3 days to put it together without any problems for a newbie to nitos like myself...... except for those stupid e clips!!! i'm also planning to break in my engine tom, any tips?? I'm not very sure on like on my first tank of break in, should i stop the engine and like it cool down or keep going.:rolleyes: How long or how many full tanks should i keep going on after that too?

I would really appreciate your experienced reply!! Thanks dudes and i'm sure i'm gonna reallly love running me NMT!!!!!

[SleepyGMan]

Gravedigger,

When I got my NMT, I let it run non-stop for about 2 hours. I fueled up the tank, and let it idle on the patio. As the tank ran down, I just kept filling it up, leaving the engine running. After 4 tanks or so I started driving it fairly slowly. I continued to keep filling the tank rather than letting it run out. With each refill of the tank I drove it a little faster until I was going full out on tank 8 or 9. I had it tuned to run pretty rich until I had run the whole quart of break in fuel through it, though it took me about a month to go through the entire quart. I still run it a little on the rich side with regular (non-break-in) fuel. I'm on quart #4 now, and have had no problems with the engine to this point. Hope this helps. :D

[Gravedigger]

Hi Sleepgman! thanks for the input.

I tried breaking it in by letting it idle but when it reaches about 3/4 tanks the engine jus dies! Then i couldn't continue because it was to late at night and my neighbours would probably slaughter me!:p So i left it to the next day which i ran another 5 full tanks and finally let it rip with 25% nitro fuel. Hope this doesn't kill me engine. Anyways i'm a first timer and i hope to replace it with a OS engine probably in about 4 months time. What do think? How rich do you run your 15fe? I run at about 21/2 turns, any suggestions?

[SleepyGMan]

Actually, I have the NMT Racer and I have the 15SS in it. I run it at about 2-3/4 turns open.

[the_swed]

Originally posted by tHe cOokIe
why is it the hpi says not to use the 2 speed offroad? what problems are caused and how do u fix it?

on raod, how fast would the racer go w/ os cvr and a two speed?

If you jump with a 2 speed its gonna chift up in the air and then when you land they get f*** up... so after a couple of jumps you have to get new ones... this is why they dont recommend it for offroading...

[kxpedder7]

I am new to , I traded my old electric for a nitro Rs4 Mt...

It has .15 engine ( stock one ) K&N filter, Tuned pipe

Set of paddle tires

And front and rear sway bars

What is the most common thing that breaks?

I have some money to buy aftermarket parts, and I want to know what are a few things that I should replace w/ aftermarket stuff before they break........


Thanks

[kxpedder7]

I wish you could edit post'd here... lol

I meant to say "I am new to nitro"

[Ryche]

A arms.... Shock towers...... some have problems with spur gear, i don't though.. ... and dog bones... go to www.hpiracing.com, they have a great forum...everything you'd ever want to know about the NMT...


Ryche

[Gravedigger]

When i'm running my NMT, the turnbuckle ball ends always seem to pop out whenever i hit a jump or a bad landing. It's kinda frustrating!! Can't wait to get the titanium ones as soon as possible. I think that is the weakest part of my NMT. It also doesn't steer correctly, its never going strait!

But besides all these......i still luv my NMT to bits!! It rocks man!:D

[DTRAX]

Gravedigger, try taking apart your steering servo saver and clean it, that fixed mine.
I just installed titanium turnbuckles and set the camber and toe, wow the tires should wear better now too. Now I had a front axle pop out for the first time but that was shortly after a Monster Pirate ran me over!
Oh by the way I got the langsford turnbuckles and blue RPM h.d. ballcaps looks Cool.

[Ryche]

i'd suggest the RPM's Ball Cups.. they are a life saver.. specially if racing....

[Ryche]

well go to www.hpiracing.com and look at the forum.. It will answer any question you have about any hpi car..


Ryche..

[EdZ]

look at my baby. ofna/picco .21 es comp. Custom made EXTENDED chassis, using monster pirate drivetrain...

[SleepyGMan]

What kind of fuel do you guys run with? I've been running 20% Monster fuel, but when I went to get some more they were out, so I picked up some 25%. Is the 25% gonna be too much for my 15SS? Thanks.

[Ryche]

No, you'll be ok, however you will have to retune your engine to compensate for the higher nitro content. just keep an eye on the temp..



Ryche..

[MTRookie]

Hey all, I'm new to this forum stuff so forgive me if I'm doing it wrong. I've read all the MT threads though and haven't seen anyone say a thing about adding the 5.5mm carb to the .15fe. This is what I'm running for now. Is anyone using this and what kinds of problems or improvements could I expect from the upgrade? Basically, is it worth it?

My current setup:
.15FE w/12 fin heat sink
2spd 49/52 spur
13-16 Bell
MIP CVD's on the wheels
HD 2.5mm chassis

Everything else stock...I've got a NRS4-2 and NRS4-3 as well, but my MT is what I enjoy the most! Being in Japan I can pick up most options considerable cheaper than in the states...so suggestion are appreciated.

[jcnmt]

i have one!you will notice some power gainand you will idle better.i think you should get one you will have great improvement!

[MTRookie]

Thanks jcnmt...thought it would be a worth while upgrade, just wanted comments from someone that had added. My MT was smokin tonight. I think my second gear has wigged though....any idea how to check without having to run engine? I thought about spinnin it up using a drill when tranny off to see if it engaged, but don't know how fast it needs to spin to engage. probably needs rebuilt though since I shouldn't run off-road?

[jcnmt]

yes you shouldn't run offroad with you two speed.you might need to clean the one way bearing.

[MTRookie]

How are the crankshaft bearings removed on a .15FE? Mine sucked dirt and scored the sleeve, but want to totally clean before reassembly. These do come out right? Probably need a $50 puller to remove a $5 bearing!haha Do these normally come out for sleeve/piston change or change and then clean exterior?

[brassmonkey]

I just got a nitro mt and it's fast, but is there any chance of it beating my friends stocker t-maxx

[kt77]

i bought a hpi/nova motor a couple years ago(before the evo 2 motor) the piston/sleeve set finally wore out. does any one know if i can put a nova set instead of the expensive 70$ hpi set? isnt it the same as like the cx12 or something. if someone can help me save some $ i would appreciate it thanks

[M16-A2]

Originally posted by brassmonkey
I just got a nitro mt and it's fast, but is there any chance of it beating my friends stocker t-maxx

Sure is your stock NMT should be faster than a stock TMaxx if it is tuned properly.

[kt77]

do you know anything about the piston/sleeve question above

[M16-A2]

If you're rebuilding the engine you can take out the piston/sleeve and then also remove the crankshaft. This way you'll have easy access to the bearing and you should be able to clean it without actually removing it from the engine. If dirt was sucked into the engine and has scored the piston/sleeve I'd be willing to bet the crankshaft is also scratched and will need replaced.

Hope that helps!

[kt77]

i was refering to the replacing hpi/nova piston/sleeve question. thanks

[M16-A2]

How bout you post in bold the question you want me to answer, I don't feel like going back through and rereading other posts:D

[Lage]

Hey, I'm getting an OS CV-X.15 or a Picco P.15, does anyone knows the accessories needed to adapt these engines to the NMT? Thanks:rolleyes:

[kt77]

its about 7 posts up from here labeled( hpi motor) sorry about that

[little_leon60]

my choices are traxxas trx .15 pro, dynamite .12 sps, and associated .15. which one would perform the best? the reason i am only including these engine is because i can get each of them for $80. please tell me which one would have the most power.

aslo, what rpm part do i need for my titanium turnbuckles?

[gtkx80]

hey guys ! I have a MFE truck in which I have about $900 invested into it, and really want a Nitro MT racer !!! Here is a bit of what would come with the truck :
1.) The truck, which has brand new MIP shiny CVD's, new plastic outdrives with titanium sleeves, and an awesome painted body !
2.) V7.1 esc (AWESOME)
3.) (2) matchd Panasonic SMH 3000's (1.17v, 550 sec...1.16v, 550 sec) (Extremely fast packs !)
4.) Duratrax Intellipeak Pulse charger (Duratrax's best charger!)
5.) Trnity P2K2 Pro stock motor (Fast!)
6.) Trinity 11 turn Retro Mod motor (Extremely fast!)
7.) Futaba Magnum Jr. FM Tx and Futaba F1-311R 3 channel Rx
8.) 425 Deluxe BB steering servo
9.) Every other part that would go along with the truck !!!

Please let me know if anybody is ready to race 1/10 electric stock or mod, and ready to WIN !

Thanks
:cool:

[TitansGT4]

I just picked up a nitro MT racer yesterday and man is this thign hot! I havent quite run it yet, im just about finished putting it 2gether. I run w/ a Fantom .15 engine pullstart, Futaba radio gear, n' 2 filter the fuel i use dynamites fuel filter. How do u guys lik this truck? U think mine can hit 40 mph out the box?

[gtkx80]

ah, perfect, want to trade? LOL :cool:

[gtkx80]

seriously though....:cool:

[M16-A2]

Originally posted by TitansGT4
I just picked up a nitro MT racer yesterday and man is this thign hot! I havent quite run it yet, im just about finished putting it 2gether. I run w/ a Fantom .15 engine pullstart, Futaba radio gear, n' 2 filter the fuel i use dynamites fuel filter. How do u guys lik this truck? U think mine can hit 40 mph out the box?

My truck can beat up your truck LOL!

The fantom should give the NMT some very decent speed, you'll be happy with it!

[TitansGT4]

i might put in the 2 speed 2morro, n' im thinkin bout a .21 at christmas, what do u think? (n' how the hell do u get that slipper clutch in right)

[M16-A2]

The slipper is a pretty easy direct fit into the center gear mount. A lot of people have done a .21 conversion, but most .21's put out too much power for the NMT. Sure it'll be fun for awhile, but the truck wasn't designed to handle the torque of a .21 and will need aftermarket support in order to work well with a .21. If you really want speed in your NMT go with a MT12 or RB X12, they'll make you fly!

www.gimpysracing.cjb.net

[getoffmylawn4]

Hey guys, I found a used NMT at my hobby shop without engine for $170. I had never drievn one, so on a hunch I grabbed it and stuck in my OS .12 CVRX. I dont think I could ask for more.

Are the aluminum arms really worth it? I've already broken one.

How about CVD's? Or should I just stick to the stock outdrives?

Lastly, what tires wear the LONGEST that are for offroad? I am almost through my dirt hawgs in only a quart...

Thanks for your help,
Ben

[gometro333]

Well I have a Nitro Mt Racer with a Nitro Star .15 engine and works AWESOME!!!!!!!! I can get it up up about 45 mph after getting it warmed up. After the engine it's stock. I haven't gotten a chance to upgrade do to lak of money. If anyone has an spare upgade parts they aren't usng I'll take them. I'll try to get a picture of it out soon.

[M16-A2]

Which .15 engine are you using in the NMT?

[gometro333]

I said, it's an HPI Nitro Star .15 pullstart engine. And I like I said the pic is coming

[M16-A2]

15SS?
15FE?
15 Standard?

All are HPI Nitro Star 15's, you'll have to be a little more descriptive so we know just what engine you have.

[gometro333]

Sorry 'bout that. It's a HPI Nitro Star .15 SS.

[gometro333]

Does anyone know a good site to get upgrades like shock towers, etc?
Also, has anyone put a big 'ole buggy wing on there NMT?
If so, HOW!!!!!!!!!????????

[M16-A2]

www.towerhobbies.com has all the parts you'll need.
Yes you can put a buggy wing on and this is how:
http://kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html#wing

[gometro333]

Thanks a lot, and do you have a AIM, AOL, Yahoo! Messenger account so we don't have to keep talking like this? Mine is on my profile. Thanks again.

[gometro333]

Does anyone know if you can use the RS4 vented flywheel on the MT? If so, do I need to do anything in order to be able to use it? Thanks

[M16-A2]

Yes you can, you'll need to get a collet w/washers.

AIM = gimps2k2 if you want to talk

[gometro333]

why do i need the washers? just to space it out?

[gometro333]

when I built the car I had to extend the servo thing that connects it to the engine. the piece that came with it was too short. like I said I have the HPI Nitro Star .15 SS. My question, is there an aluminum piece that I can get because the piece I made is gonna brake anytime now? THanks

[M16-A2]

The piece that comes with the kit is long enough. Are you sure you don't have the servo in backwards? Anyway you can make new linkage out of any small diameter metal wire, just as long as it's stiff enough to pull the brake pads!

[FTR]

i want to put 1/8th scale tires and wheels on my hpi nitro mt but i cant seen to find the hex adaptors i need . anyone kmow of ones that will work

[gometro333]

Is there any way to have dual fuel tanks? I've seen it done but not with an MT. And, what 125cc tank fits the MT?

[M16-A2]

It can be done by mounting a second 75cc tank to the rear shock tower using aluminum braces.(can be found at local hardware store). To fit a 125cc tank you have to mod the upper deck, and it's really not worth it IMO. Others have done it though and it is possible.

[gometro333]

when you said I can make anew linkage with music wire, thanks but thats not exactly what I was asking. the servo saver is too short so I had to extend that, not the linkage. and thanks for the tip on the tank. but how do I connect the 2 lines that go to the engine

[howdy]

what are the best mods for a mt:confused: :confused: :(

[M16-A2]

:)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/Movies/Hill01.mpg

[M16-A2]

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/images/NMT_Stella05.jpg

[TitansGT4]

oh my goodness, what kind of rims r those? i was just about 2 post asking if ne1 knew where u could find MT aluminum rims. Can u get them w/o the adonizing?gimme a link or sumthin ur truck iz hot

[M16-A2]

Those rims are made by Rad-Tech Racing.
www.radtechracing.com

They run $120 on the site I believe, but you can get them on ebay for $50!

[TitansGT4]

Thanks man, i gotta get those wheels for my truck:D .I'm gonna order them as soon as i have the money, which tires are best for running on grass and stuff? I have the RAcer kit w/ a Fantom .15 and a 2 speed tranny, and i noticed that in the mud, my tires(bow ties) werent gripping all that great. I have a standard steering servo in there, too, so that may be the problem. Any advice would be helpful

[M16-A2]

HiTec 645MG steering servo:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXUZ89&P=7

and I've come to like the Proline Gladiator for an offroad/grass tire:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXDX67&P=7

[TitansGT4]

HiTec 645MG steering servo:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...=1&I=LXUZ89&P=7

and I've come to like the Proline Gladiator for an offroad/grass tire:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...=1&I=LXDX67&P=7


thanks man:)

[gometro333]

WOOOOOOHOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!! 17 PAGES!!!!!! Way to go guys!!!!

[smacked]

Hey guys I just got a NMT a few weeks ago and I am probably going to get a more high performance engine. I want some of your suggestions on which one I should get. I definitely want more speed and also great reliability. Help me out :)

Thanx

[gometro333]

pull start or non-pull start??

[smacked]

pull start

[gometro333]

I have a NMT Racer w/a HPI Nitro Star 15 ss and I love it, but I would go for a .15 FE. As for .21, I have no idea.

[smacked]

I have a .15FE... and I would like something more powerful and more speed :)

[gometro333]

I don't know much about pull-start engines (all my others are non pull-start) but there is someone, M16-A2, does and he posts on this thread, ask him.

[smacked]

Ya I want a pull start engine that will require little modification but give my NMT a large gain in speed and also an engine with good reliability.

[M16-A2]

smacked: Sounds to me like you'd be happy with a 15SS. It will provide a sizeable gain in power over the FE, and should be more than adequate for offroading!

It's also a drop in replacement, you'll just need these engine mounts and screws:
*Tower's search function seems to be down, I'll post links tomorrow*

[smacked]

Thanx M16 for the help will I need to upgrade anything else when i get it?

[M16-A2]

What hop-ups do you already have?

Here are the engine mounts and screws you'll need:

Engine mounts:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXN373&P=7
Screws(you need 8 total):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXM655&P=M

I'd also recommend you get a slipper clutch if you don't already have one, it'll save you spur gears when jumping and offroading:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXWC18&P=7

Besides that you don't really need anything, but if you want to upgrade a little further you could go for the lightweight flywheel and racing clutch. Titanium turnbuckles also add a lot of adjustability and firm up the steering on the NMT. If you get Ti buckles, get some RPM HD rod ends(they're very durable and never pop off!)

[smacked]

thx for all the help M16 im sure i will enjoy it.

[TitansGT4]

I got some money and its absolutely burning a hole in my pocket. What do u think I should buy? I wanted a tuned pipe for my racer kit w/ a FAntom .15 and 2 speed, u think thats smart?

[M16-A2]

I've been using this pipe and love it:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LX3428&P=7


I prefer this pipe over the old style CVEC that I used to run, it has loads of low end and with a X12 provides some nasty speed as well!

I have used the new style CVEC and think it has comparable low end to the RC10 pipe.(however my brother uses that CVEC on his NMT:)) The CVEC will also run you around $50, while the RC10 pipe is only $32.

[gometro333]

See everyone, M16-A2 is the man!!

[M16-A2]

gometro, do you know me from somewhere? LOL;)

[TitansGT4]

thanks im gonna pick up one of those pipes, but 1 last question. Which ones louder?:D

[M16-A2]

The CVEC is a pretty loud pipe, and if you want noise it's the one to get.

If you really want a low end pipe for some good offroadin' then the AE pipe is for you.(and it's pretty loud as well)

[gometro333]

ALL PIPES ARE REALLY FREAKING LOUD!!!!! Look at the hole the exhaust in coming out of. I was wondering if anyone has attempted to make a pipe (not a company) that sounds like a street racer. That would be tight.

[doesgo]

Are most of these pipes louder than the stock plastic tuned pipe on the NMT? I don't mind the noise from that pipe (with HPI header) at all, but my friend's stock T-Maxx is really loud by comparison.

I don't want to annoy the neighbors. Well, not too much, anyway.

Bruce

[doesgo]

Originally posted by M16-A2
I've been using this pipe and love it:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LX3428&P=7


I prefer this pipe over the old style CVEC that I used to run, it has loads of low end and with a X12 provides some nasty speed as well!

I have used the new style CVEC and think it has comparable low end to the RC10 pipe.(however my brother uses that CVEC on his NMT:)) The CVEC will also run you around $50, while the RC10 pipe is only $32.


I've seen this other AE pipe recommended on the HPI forum (why is that forum still down, by the way?): http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBMH0&P=K

Does anyone know the difference other than the color and the price? I'll pay an extra $13 for the one M16 recommended if there's a benefit, but otherwise $18.39 for a good pipe sounds great to me.

Thanks,
Bruce

[M16-A2]

That pipe is the RPM muffler and isn't the same as the RC10 pipe. The one you listed will be better suited to applications where higher RPM's are consistently reached.

There is a pipe for $18.39 that closes parallels the RC10 pipe I listed, although I've never tried it.(the only difference is a 1/32 diameter difference of the pipe)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LX3419&P=7

[doesgo]

Well I'm a basher and off-roader, so torque is what I need to get through grass and dirt and up hills, much moreso than high-end power. If the $32 pipe works for you as a torque-producer, it sounds like it's the way to go.

Thanks a lot,
Bruce

[gometro333]

And teh second pipe M16-A2 suggested is just pain ugly. Who likes ugly pipes? Go for the $32 one.

[doesgo]

Can't even see the pipe under the body! :D

But I'll still go with the $32 job.

Bruce

[gometro333]

WOOOOOO HOOOOOO!!!!!!! 18 PAGES!!!! But when you take the body off YOU can see it and everytime you look at it, you'll think to yourself, "Man, I really shoulda gone the whole nine yards and bought the better looking pipe!"

(Or maybe thats just me)

[M16-A2]

I'd take performance over looks anyday, but obviously you can get great looks and still have top end performance:D

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/images/NMT_Stella03.jpg

[gometro333]

Is that yours? If so, where's the cool air intake? Are the Paris ribbed pipes good?

[M16-A2]

That pic was B.C.I., here's a newer one with it.

[gometro333]

I still don't see how you made the cool intake. Was it hard?

[M16-A2]

It wasn't hard at all. I just bought the .21 GS Racing intake elbow(because of the larger Novarossi carb), a 3-4 inch piece of metal tube, and popped my .21 filter on the end. With a few zip ties everything is held together very securely.

Also in the colder months of the year(which is most of the year in PA), you can wrap the fuel line around the intake and the cold nitro will cool the air even more:D

[gometro333]

Oh ok. What are the major advantages of it, and how much did it cost?

[M16-A2]

It makes a small increase in the low end punch of the engine. Not sure how much it would be noticed on lower power engines, but it made a noticeable difference on the X12.

Total cost = $3.75

[gometro333]

Alright thanks. I think I'll do it. So i just get a the metal tubing and the elbow. Thanks a bundle. DO you know if that elbow will fit my 15 ss?

[M16-A2]

For a 15SS you need a 1/10th scale elbow.

The X12 I have uses a Novarossi style carb, which has a much larger venturi than standard .12 engines.(that's why I use 1/8th scale intake parts)

[gometro333]

Hmmmm.......what size is the X15 (my possible next engine)? Also, I can't find the elbow anywhere, is there a substitute I could use (maybe some other company)?

[M16-A2]

You want something like this:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/description.asp?prod=GSCMA15PR&pc=GSCMA15PR

If you search Horizon you can find just the right elbow for your engine.

[gometro333]

Thank you soooooooo much!!!!!

[gometro333]

Does the diameter of the tube make a difference as long as the airfilter fits? And I think I gonna wait to do it so I can see if I gonna get the X15.

[SyberSerulean]

hey guys, whats up?

I got pics of my truck, here ya go. Its got a slipper clutch, hi torque throttle servo (need the brake power), picco .12, and an AE pipe. It also took 1st place at the southern CA HPI challenge.
:D

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Oct/200210214635704874490661.jpg

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Oct/200210212930933800245710.jpg

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Oct/200210217038943063842342.jpg

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Oct/200210216842165841224834.jpg

[SyberSerulean]

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Oct/200210212021244039115938.jpg
red truck back there. :D

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Oct/200210217794562217771326.jpg
hit the jump a wee bit too fast. :D

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Oct/200210213933833191354117.jpg
and there's me holding my red truck. Ehhh, my bro there with his blue truck too.

:D

[doesgo]

Anyone know anything about the Yokomo RX-12 engine? I can't find any specific info about it by searching the Web.

I'm thinking about replacing my .15 FE engine with the Yokomo, but if it's going to lower its torque, I'm not sure I want to since I use my NMT for bashing and off-road stuff.

Thanks,
Bruce

[TitansGT4]

You should try the Fantom .15. It makes great power and even better low end torque, and it idles and starts reliable. the only time that engine ever cut off while i was running it is when it ran outta gas. I paid something lik 170 for it. A comparable engine that you might like is the O.S .15 CV RX that makes more power, but i find it a bit more tempermental

[doesgo]

I appreciate the info. The Fantom .15 is at the top of my list, but I can't afford the $150-$170 for the Fantom right now.

I can, however, get the Yokomo RX-12 Hyper for $60, so I thought it might be a nice improvement over the stock HPI FE.15, at least to tide me over until I can afford the Fantom.

Bruce

[M16-A2]

You paid $170 for a Fantom 15? Ouch!

You can get them here for only $109.99, and that's with a pullstart(non pullstart are even cheaper).

*EDIT*
Forgot I can't post ebay links, but the auction number is 1777894335, you can look at it by yourself!

[doesgo]

Thanks for the link, M16. Is that the right kind of crank to be a direct replacement for my .15FE in my NMT?

Bruce

[M16-A2]

Yup thats the right crank(you need standard).

[doesgo]

Thanks much, M16, you've been a huge help over the past couple weeks.

Any idea when the HPI forum will be back up?

Bruce

[M16-A2]

Unfortunately no, it was giving some pretty wierd server errors on Friday, so I'm guessing they may have a server problem that could take time.(although I'm guessing it'll be back soon:))

[M16-A2]

LOL, my bro and I were running last night when his MT started to skip along the ground and the rear wheels stuttered. So today I took apart the diff to see what was up, and here's what I found(his XTM 15 ripped up the 38T final):D

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/images/Matt_Diff01.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/images/Matt_Diff02.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/images/Matt_Diff03.jpg

[doesgo]

That's nasty!

Uh-oh, if I run a Fantom .15 should I be looking into some upgrades in the driveline?

Bruce

[M16-A2]

You might need one or two...
Most people get the engine first and then upgrade as needed. If you want to keep the diffs from unloading like that one did, then seal them and use some diff fluid oil(10k to 100k weight).

[doesgo]

I guess I jinxed myself. :(

I just got back from a noontime romp on some damp dirt and fried the rear diff in my NMT. At least I think that's what happened, it's the only thing that makes sense (I haven't pulled it apart, obviously).

It was running well on grass, wood chips, etc., then I went on a big damp dirt area and bombed around for 6-7 minutes having fun just raging here and there. Suddenly it sounded odd, like the engine was stuttering a little at 3/4 throttle (or so). I thought it was the wet dirt clumped up in the Dirt Hawgs, but I zinged them clean by gassing it a little while holding the truck in the air. Well, it still sounded funny and didn't go very fast. I took it in some grass and it was totally front-wheel-drive, the rears were just holding up the back end of the truck. Not much fun.

I shut it down and checked it out visually. I can lock the brake but still spin the back wheels, but the fronts don't spin. Similarly, if I hold the back tires still and roll the fronts, the rear driveshaft spins but the wheels don't. Also, if I hold the clutch bell and lift up the front end, the back end rolls, but if I lift the back end and try to roll it on the front wheels, no go.

So is my rear diff fried?

Any recommended upgrades for it? I don't want to put a stock replacement back in.

Thanks in advance,
Bruce

[M16-A2]

Probably a bad diff, you could upgrade if you want but the HD finals are a little pricy:

38T HD Final:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXTB54&P=7
13T HD Final:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXTB55&P=M

[doesgo]

At that price, I'll wait until I pull it apart to really see what's wrong. Thanks for the links.

Bruce

[gometro333]

AHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!:( :( :( :( My engine practicly blew up today!!!! I was just running it around when suddenly it made this HUGE bang and stopped working. I have no idea what's wrong. I have a HPI Nitro Star 15 ss. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!:( :(

[M16-A2]

Hmmm, check the conrod maybe. Sounds like you might have been a little too lean and run at high RPM's a little long(maybe snapped the conrod).

Hopefully it wasn't the engine though and you'll find it was something else that made that snap, crackle, pop noise:D

[SyberSerulean]

ive been running a picco .12 in my truck since march. No driveline upgrades whatsoever and it runs fine and everything. Ive stripped maybe 3 or 4 spur gears with that though, lol. I got a slipper now so im ok. Id strongly suggest the picco .12 (rated 1.25 HP). :-D

[RAULMT]

F4i Modelsport Racing Titanium chassis, Upper deck and shock towers.

[RAULMT]

F4i Modelsport Racing Titanium chassis, Upper deck and shock towers.

[RAULMT]

.

[doesgo]

That's BEAUTIFUL!

Where'd you get the on/off switch cover?

[RAULMT]

.

http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/

[RAULMT]

www.horizonhobby.com is made by GS Racing.

http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/

[gometro333]

Where can I get all the Ti stuff? I like it, a lot more than the purple.

[RAULMT]

This parts are way better than Powerline or megatech stuff.

http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/

[gometro333]

THanks

[M16-A2]

Hey guys, tell me what you think of my new tips & mods page. More stuff to come, but there is a start!

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/Tips_Page.htm

[Pro3/nmt105]

m16 what site did u buy ure x12 from can u please give me a link i couldnt find it on your site

[M16-A2]

Did everybody die out there, no one feel like posting?

Darn HPI forums!

[Pro3/nmt105]

hi did u see my question? thanx

[Pro3/nmt105]

this forums so much slower than hpis

[M16-A2]

www.speedzoneraceway.com

Oh somebody's going for the power of ORANGE!

[gometro333]

I have the HPI Racing Tank (included with NMT Racer). There is a piece under the cap that keeps teh o-ring on the cap. Does any one know how to keep that piece from coming off?

[Vmax911]

A bunch of the Racer tanks were recalled.

Check out this link. (http://www.hpiracing.com/kits/nmtr-u.htm)

[gometro333]

THANK YOU SOOOOOOO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!:D :D

[gometro333]

WOOOOO HOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!! 20 PAGES!!!!!!! WAY TO GO GUYS!!!!!:D:D :D :D :D :D :D :D

[smacked]

Hey M16-A2 its me again i am about to buy my new engine but ive heard that the Fantom's are very good and have a lot of power. Would i have to do a lot of modification if i got one?

[TitansGT4]

I've got the fantom, this is by mile the best engine ive ever had in any of my cars. I've tried four different engines in my maxx, TRX, Megatech, HPI, and O.S. When faced w/ a descison for my MT Racer, i chose the fantom on a recommendation from my buddy at the hobby shop. This thing rocks:D ;loads of power, and extremely reliable

[doesgo]

I'm interested in this engine as well. Was the setup pretty straightforward and the initial settings pretty decent? Any tips if I buy one?

Bruce

[TitansGT4]

yeah the needle settings were perfect from the factory, jus lean it out a lil bit be careful not 2 go 2 much. But the best tip i can give u is, BUY THIS ENGINE. its available w/ rotary or slide carb, and pull or non/pull. i bought da pull rotary due 2 a lack of funds:p . If i had da money i wouldve ordered the non pull slide. But anyways u should buy this engine
http://www.fantom-motors.com/main.htm

[doesgo]

Sounds awesome, I can't wait!

eBay has some of these engines from someplace like R&L Hobby in Michigan. You can get a rotary pull for about $95 and I think a slide pull for $110 or so. Heckuva deal!

What did you have before in the Racer, a 15FE?

Bruce

[TitansGT4]

i put the fantom in there from the start, since it didnt come w/ an engine or nething. Its great!

[gometro333]

Come on guys we gotta keep this thread going and beat those XXX-NT guys. Then again they have 164 pages, but at least we have something to shoot for right?

In midst of all this engine talk, if you have the budget (like your birthday is coming up) go for a RB Concepts like the X12 or X15. THe X15 would actually have TOO MUCH power, but check those out.

LET'S KEEP THIS THREAD GOING!!!:D :D :D :D :D :D :D

[TitansGT4]

even tho my fantom makes more power than i could eva want, im still thinkin bout puttin in a .21. U think an Omega Sport engine would make the drive train work bad? Cause if it messes the truck up then i dont wanan do it

[gometro333]

Go for the X15, not a .21. THe X15 already has more than enough power. Also, the .21 will cost too much unless you can find a good deal. The X15 only costs $300 (a little steep but worth it). Just check it out at www.speedzoneraceway.com (http://www.speedzoneraceway.com)

[TitansGT4]

i couldnt find it, but thanks 4 da advice. Im new 2 engine tuning, and im even having sum trouble w/ da fantom(not the engines fault). I might buy somethin easy 2 tune lik a HB .18 until i get a lil betta and kno how 2 tune tuff engines.

[LkHse]

Hey this is smacked by the way titan did u have to do any modification and which motor did u get the .12 or .15 fantom?

[gometro333]

This is the X15 (http://www.speedzoneraceway.com/product.asp?0=293&1=312&3=503) and This is the X12 (http://www.speedzoneraceway.com/product.asp?0=293&1=312&3=515)

There you go, and these engines are just as easy to tune as your fantom.

[TitansGT4]

nope it fit perfectly, no cutting or anything. And thanks, ill buy one of those engines in the near future

[TitansGT4]

Guys, i have a quick question. You know the Jump MT in radio control nitro a few months back? Well i want to mount that stampede body on my truck, cause it looks really cool, but i was wondering how they made the front mounts go forward like they did. I found long body posts for the truck, but i dont know what to do to mount them in the front forwards like they did. Any help would be appreciated

[LkHse]

Titan, do you have the FR15 or the FR12 ? how fast does it go? and there was NO modification required for the more powerful engine? have u had any problems with it?

[doesgo]

Did the stock NMT flywheel, clutch and clutch bell go right on the standard crank of that F15?

[TitansGT4]

unless the racer clutch is different, everything went in perfectly. I just did what the instructions said and it was perfect. Now can ne1 answer my body post question???

[LkHse]

this is smacked again, you have a MT not MTR right? Anyways, if u had a FR12 or FR15, where did you buy it, and which one do u have?

[doesgo]

I don't know where Titan got his, but there are a bunch of brand-new ones on eBay right around the $100 mark. Check it out...

[LkHse]

Titan, which Fantom do you have FR15 or FR12, and where did you buy it. I do not want to buy off ebay so if u could find me a good place that would be very nice.

[TitansGT4]

I hav an MTR, and i bought my FAntom .15 w/ from Champion hobbies in hillside NJ

[M16-A2]

Just in case you didn't know. When it comes to mounting an engine it doesn't matter if you have a racer or regular MT. They are both the exact same design, and ANY .12 or .15 will be a drop in fit to the NMT(except some special big block .15's).