Nitro MT and MT Racer Forum

[smacked]

M16, Where do you buy all of your aluminum/titanium hop-ups for your NMT?

[M16-A2]

The only Ti I have on my NMT are the hex hubs and the turnbuckles.

I get all my stuff from www.towerhobbies.com just do a search for "Powerline MT".

If you want a link to the hex hubs I'll have to look them up, but they're made by Hammad Ghumann(sp?)

[TitansGT4]

DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO MOUNT THAT STAMPEDE BODY ON THE NITRO MT?!:confused:

[smacked]

The HPI manifold here http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBTB5&P=0 will be good for a CVEC pipe correct?

[M16-A2]

That one will work, but I think this one may have a slightly larger port:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXSP45&P=7

*My brother uses it on his NMT and loves it with a CVEC*

[LkHse]

God...i hate the stupid Nitro Rustler Forum...no one ever posts there. When i was at Smacked's house wew ould get on, and every tiem we would have a new post. So here is a question, not really specific to a truck but, how do u like the MIP Side Exaust pipe?

[gometro333]

Alright this is a question for everyone (not just M16-A2) and I will listen to what everyone says. SO...here's the scenario, I have a $100 to spend on anything, naturally I'm gonna put money into my car. So what upgrades should I get?

-Matt

[M16-A2]

gometro: What upgrades do you already have?

[gometro333]

I have no upgrades, just whatever comes with the NMT Racer. Oh I do haev blue springs in the back.

[M16-A2]

What engine did you drop into that Racer then?

[smacked]

Get a tuned pipe, CVEC, AE, MIP, are all good.

[gometro333]

I have a HPI Nitro Star 15 ss. I already have a tuned pipe that is good enough.

[M16-A2]

Have you upgraded the steering servos to something with a little more torque(HiTec 645MG).

Maybe go for the Powerline aluminum steering to add some stability at higher speeds and more grip in turns.

How bout some Ti parts form F4i? His shock towers look pretty good! I dunno about the chassis, that seems like a bit of overkill, but if you like it go for it!

[doesgo]

From everything I've heard and what little I've experienced, I'd get a header and muffler/pipe first.

I got this header for $14 at my LHS:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBTB5&P=7

Due to its longer design, the New Jersey Big Tube Header should make more torque than the HPI header listed above. I don't have their Web address handy, however. I believe it's about $25.

The most recommended pipe around here is this one for $33 - it should really bump the torque:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LX3428&P=K

This appears to be the same pipe, but it's not purple and it's only $18:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LX3419&P=7

You might need this to hold up the end of your new AE pipe:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LX3418&P=K

And some silicone tubing for the header-to-pipe connection:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LX3420&P=K

For lots of pipe and header info, go here:
http://home.attbi.com/~keubstudios/...pipes/pipes.htm

and here:
http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/tuned.asp


Okay, so that's anywhere from $35 - $62 of your money. What next...

If you go off-road and do some jumping, I'd add a slipper clutch to save your spur. Spurs are cheap, but a pain to replace repeatedly, and a broken spur means down-time. It's $29.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXWC18&P=K

A racing clutch will let you select how you want the power to be transferred to the wheels. Full-size shoes will make a smooth transition and engage at a lower rpm, but it's slower getting going. Trimming down the shoes will allow more rpm before the truck moves so it should accelerate harder when it goes, but it takes more rpm to get going, and I understand the transition isn't as smooth.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXLW03&P=K

A throttle return spring (cheap) and a failsafe ($30) would be wise investments as well just in case your truck gets out of range or your batteries die.

Have fun...

[gometro333]

Holy crap that awesome, thanks a lot.

[M16-A2]

doesgo: Since he has the Racer version he should already have the slipper.

The AE pipe is an excellent choice for low end, and you can just chop up a clothes hanger to hold the pipe!

If you still have that restrictive stock header on the NMT you may consider a Tmaxx header or NJ Big Tube header:
http://www.hobbyshopnj.com/gen2header.html

[gometro333]

Is there a header like similar to that I can get at towerhobbies.com? And you say the AE pipe is how much?

[doesgo]

The clothes hanger sounds great to me! Thanks for the tip. So obvious, yet....

So that NJ BTH will make an improvement over the HPI pipe? Sounds good to me. I've ported my HPI (at the engine flange), but the tube is definitely shorter than the NJ and probably smaller in diameter.

Thanks again for the tips, M16.

Bruce

[doesgo]

Originally posted by gometro333
Is there a header like similar to that I can get at towerhobbies.com? And you say the AE pipe is how much?

For the pipe, read up a couple posts, the prices and links are there for the two different AE pipes.

[gometro333]

Will the header that, sorry I forget who said it but whoever posted the big list, be as good as the one M16-A2 posted?

[M16-A2]

The HPI header posted earlier will work fine, but the NJ Big Tube has the larger exhaust opening. Either will be a good complement to your engine, but if you have the money for the NJBTH I'd go for it, if not then get the cheaper HPI header!

[smacked]

M16, how often do the MIP CVD's need to be lubed up and stuff. ? also, does the CVEC pipe boost your brother's car power a lot and improve the performance?

[M16-A2]

I haven't lubed my CVD's since I installed them some 2 years ago. (and they still work fine)

The new style CVEC performs very well in the low RPMs, but doesn't seem to do as well in the higher RPMs.(compared to an AE pipe)

[smacked]

Which aluminum gear box would you recommend for the NMT?

[smacked]

also, what do you mean the CVEC doesnt do well in higher rpm's what does it do to show that?

[M16-A2]

Originally posted by smacked
also, what do you mean the CVEC doesnt do well in higher rpm's what does it do to show that?

I mean that I've run the old and new style CVEC and the AE pipe, and when you get up to higher RPMs the AE pipe tends to provide a slightly higher top speed than the CVEC.
Also since the AE pipe has some killer low end, I'd go with that pipe over the CVEC.

[smacked]

the CVEC can be tuned for all different things tho correct?

[LkHse]

What you think about the MIP sidepipe, me and smacked are friends, we live close and we race with each other on our own lil track, so we are always tryin to beat each other out :D

[M16-A2]

It can be adjusted but still won't compare to the AE.

[LkHse]

Check the post...see if u can answer it..btw u got AIM or IRC

[doesgo]

Anyone know what the HPI 15FE engine will rev to? I see rev ranges for aftermarket engines and I'm wondering how the FE compares.

[gometro333]

So guys, I decided to go with aluminun steering and front and rear arms. I'm not getting the pipe and header immediatley because I may be gettting a new engine soon. Thanks for the help guys. Hmmmmmmm.......instead of arms should I go with aluminun shocks?

-Matt

[M16-A2]

Don't get aluminum arms. They bend just as easily as the stockers break, and when you bend an aluminum arm it costs $25 for a replacement instead of a cheap $5 for a stocker. Every person I know that has bought the aluminum arms and bashers regularly has quickly gone back to the stock arms.

Instead if you want aluminum shocks look into the Kyosho Twin Caps(long for the rear, medium for front).

[doesgo]

I believe the stock header and pipe will be even more restrictive on a more powerful engine, so having high-flow replacements will be imperative with the new engine. I'd hate to choke a high-perf engine with the stock cast manifold.

Just my $0.02

[gometro333]

I agree with you that if I got a new engine it would be restricted with the stock pipe and header. But what I mean is I don't want to get a header that won't fit the engine I get, as in if I go with a non-pullstart engine with rear exhaust, I would have to get another pipe and header.

For the shocks...

Would I be able to use the springs I have now with the Kyosho shocks? And why not get teh shocks from powerline? And what shock oil do you recammend (sp?)?

I was also thinking...

What does everyone think about Ti turnbuckles and hinge pin set from Lunsford? Is it worth it for bashing and racing? And what what about the ball cup joints (both parts, the stud and the cup, should I change those, and which)?

You guys have been really helpful!!:D :D

Thanks

Matt

[doesgo]

Originally posted by gometro333
I agree with you that if I got a new engine it would be restricted with the stock pipe and header. But what I mean is I don't want to get a header that won't fit the engine I get, as in if I go with a non-pullstart engine with rear exhaust, I would have to get another pipe and header.

Good point! Didn't think of that aspect. What engines are you looking into? Just curious.

Bruce

[gometro333]

Either the X12, X15, or the new fantom .15. Probably not the X15 because there is too much power in it.

[G19]

gometro333

You should be able to use hpi springs on kyosho shocks(twin caps). I do and AE springs too.

Kyosho twin caps are cheaper than powerline. The twin caps are a great shock. As for what shock oil to use. It depends on what you are doing racing or bashing. Different track require different setup. I use 40wt and black(hpi)springs on local track. If I'm going to do some big jumps. I put blue springs(hpi) on.

[gometro333]

Thank you very much. So what about the Ti turnbuckles guys?

[M16-A2]

Ti turnbuckles are good, use them with RPM HD ball ends.

As for the Ti hinge pins, HPI themselves warn that you really should use a set of SS hingepins, as they hold up better than Ti hingepins.

[M16-A2]

WE HAVE AN INCH OF SNOW!!!

First real snow of the winter, even though it flurried the other day there was no accumulation. However today will be the first glorious day of snow bashing!! Good thing I stocked up on fuel, I may burn a quart or two today:D

[smacked]

M16 can you link me to the kyosho shocks that would go on the NMT?

[doesgo]

What have you done to your NMT to protect it from the moisture? I definitely want to do some snow running this winter.

[M16-A2]

Twin Caps for the front:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXSC41&P=7
and the rear:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXSC42&P=7

As for my electronics I've used silicon sealant to seal up my servos and reciever as best I can. I also use a reciever protector, and during the winter I throw my Rx in a ballon and zip tie the end shut.

[gometro333]

GET PADDLE TIRES FOR THE SNOW, THEY ARE AWESOME!!!! I used them last year with my NMT and they worked really well. Does anyone have a tips for starting cold?

-Matt

[doesgo]

Paddles on all four corners? A friend fried his electric motor a week ago running paddles in wet snow because of the load. But that's electric power and really wet, sticky snow. I can't wait to try them on my NMT!

I saw one guy on a Rustler forum who put skis on the front and paddles in the back. Looked like tons o' fun.

[gometro333]

The paddles work well in powdery snow, but once it turns to slush they'll just fling water and slide around.

The skis sound really fun, you could get them off the Nitro Elements snowmobile thing.

Has anyone sent in a Racer Tank for the recall yet? If so, was it quick?

Thanks,
Matt

[doesgo]

My local HobbyTown has skis, they're in the airplane section. Cost about $22 for a pair. Pull the front dogbones....put on the skis....

[gometro333]

Pull the front dogbones? Why would you do that? You wouldn't be able to steer!!!

M16-A2, hows the snow?

[LkHse]

M16 or anyone who can answer this. What can improve acceleration, other than Gearing, and a tuned pipe? thx

BTW: how does ure bro like the XTM .15?

[M16-A2]

A more powerful engine, or a better header can help. Other than that most of the acceleration will come from gearing.

I did an air intake mod, which provided a minimal gain in low end, it wasn't much, but for me every little bit is wanted!
http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/intake_page.htm

[LkHse]

Thanks man... btw where u get that metal tube, was it aluminum and what is the length / diameter of it

[gometro333]

I did the same air intake mod but I haven't tried it yet. If you have an HPI engine w/o a slide carb then you may need to improvise.

[LkHse]

Yeah, but i like the Metal Tube Idea better, seams to move it away farther from the heat of the header and the dirt

P.S. have any of u had experiance with the MIP Sidepipe?

[M16-A2]

I haven't run the MIP pipe.

As for the intake I used a 12mm diameter pipe, but my carb is larger because it is a Novarossi style carb. The easiest way to find one that works is to take your intake adapter and air filter to a hardware store and find a pipe that fits both perfectly!

[LkHse]

aight..so would this adapter be a good one to use? since they dont show pictures it really hard to tell

Most of these GS ones would right ? http://www.horizonhobby.com/services/results.asp?tag=srch That didnt exactly work...um just go there and search for Air Filter adapter, please tell me which one will work.. i have a O.S. .12 CV-X, thx, btw this is goin on a rustler not an MT, but since the rustler thread is so inactive, i like it here better

[M16-A2]

That link didn't go to a product, but any of the 1/10th scale GS adapters will work. I actually have 2 sitting here, as I just ordered a pack of 3 adapters for my bro's intake system.

[LkHse]

aight thx and where the hell do i put all these bearing, i know its a stupid question, but are they hard to put it?

[gometro333]

Anyone who cares...

I ordered the parts, this is the final list:

-Lunsford Ti Turnbuckles
-RPM HD Ball Ends
-HPI Stainless Steel Hinge Pins
-Powerline Aluminun Steering

I got it all from Tower Hobbies, Theyyyy'rrrrrreee GREAT!!! (ha ha)

GO NMT's!!!

Peace out

Matt

[TitansGT4]

:confused: i need help wit my body post question. I wanna mount a pro line F150 for the stampede on my MT like they did in RC Nitro, i found the long mounts, but in the front they made the mounts come forward. Any tips?

[snobdr]

Originally posted by LkHse
M16 or anyone who can answer this. What can improve acceleration, other than Gearing, and a tuned pipe? thx

BTW: how does ure bro like the XTM .15?
one simple way to increase bottom end would be to lengthen the distance between header and pipe.longer =more bottom end shorter=more top end.

[LkHse]

How would i do that?

[M16-A2]

Buy a slightly longer exhaust coupler, that way you'll have room to play with the total exhaust length.

[gometro333]

For your body problem, I don't see what the problem is. Just get a reamer and make the hole. Then put the body on. Maybe I'm not understanding the question.

[LkHse]

What do u think of this 72 T Spur, ad 18T Clutch bell...the reason i want all this accel is cuase smacked and i have our own track...the track is tight, and doesnt have much room for slow acceleration and top speed.

[M16-A2]

What 72 T spur are you getting to fit the MT?
If you want lots of accel. and can get a 72T spur, why not throw in a 12 or 13T clutch bell.

I don't know if 18/72 gearing would fit in the NMT, you may need to extend the mounting holes to fit that kind of spur in there.

[LkHse]

remeber...i have a rustler

[M16-A2]

Originally posted by LkHse
remeber...i have a rustler

I know that now... even though this is a NMT thread;)

[doesgo]

The Lexan shield that that's supposed to attach to the underside of the chassis of my NMT to protect the spur gear was torn off after some bashing. Any suggestions for a replacement?

[M16-A2]

How about don't replace it?

Actually I haven't run one since the first week I had my truck. They tear off so easily, and you really don't strip gears by rocks coming through that hole in the underside.

IMO that lexan shield isn't worth replacing, but if you must just get a 2 liter soda bottle and cut out a shield from it:)

[doesgo]

I've run for a couple weeks without it, the only time I had a problem was when a small stone got lodged between two teeth. It was easily removed, but it did stop the truck.

I did make a Lexan shield for the Allen-head cap screws that hold the engine to the chassis to keep them from being sheared off like happened to one of the original screws, but that shield only lasted a couple tanks.

I think I'll go the route you suggest and skip it entirely.

Thanks,
Bruce

[M16-A2]

Some people have fashioned a protector out of an aluminum soda can. I've heard they hold up a little better, but have never tried it myself.

[doesgo]

The vertical "slots" in the inner wall of the cooling head exist to allow air to flow through, correct? Therefore the slots should be toward the front and rear of the car rather than the sides, correct?

[smacked]

M16, how many ball bearings do I need for the 16T clutch bell

[M16-A2]

I HATE FEDEX, THEY'RE NOW 4 DAYS LATE WITH MY TOOLS AND SUPPLIES TO MAKE FULL ROLL CAGES!!!

Anyway for the 16T clutch bell you'll need 5x8 bearings(2 of them):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P.PGM?Q=1&I=LXD109&P=V

[smacked]

thx M16 i ordered my fantom .15 today off ebay for 110 and i am looking forward to getting it!

PS-get on aim more! its easier than posting here hehe :D

oh and i sent the 35 dollars today for that spur gear

[doesgo]

Be sure to tell us how you like the Fantom!

[gometro333]

Amen to that!

[gaus]

I just ordered an MT Racer kit. It is coming overnight. What are some recommendations for:

1) engine
2) radio w/ 1 high-torque servo & Rx

Any advice on building? This will be my first nitro kit built from the box. I have worked extensively on an Ofna buggy so any other advice would be appreciated as well. The video for this car looks great. I thought about holding out for a Savage but the wait and RTR only caused me to think otherwise.

I got this kit for $259.99 from Tower using a -$20 coupon from the speedmart catalog.

gaus

[M16-A2]

The FedEx guy is in my house:( He supposedly had my package, but after searching his truck realized it wasn't there:confused:

Anyway I'm off to Altoona(1 hour away) so I can get my package today:)

[doesgo]

How frustrating! Hope you don't drive an hour with the same results.

[doesgo]

I was told on the HPI Forum that if you go more than a week or so, you should use after-run oil.

I last ran my NMT six days ago with the intention of running it several times between then and now but I haven't.

Should I take any precautions before running it today or will I be okay operating as normal?

If I don't run it today, would it be a good idea to add some after-run oil today just in case it's a few more days before I get a chance to run the truck?

Thanks in advance,
Bruce

[M16-A2]

It's always good to use oil, but not necessary. Just make sure the area you store your truck isn't damp or prone to moisture. Nitro fuel tends to attract water, even if its just a little moisture in the air, and that can cause rust inside the engine.

If you have a little oil then use it, if not take your truck out and just let it idle for a couple minutes(if you have time). If not don't worry about, just be sure your engine is in a safe place!

[gometro333]

M16-A2,

Did you get your roll cage stuff, or did the post office screw up again?

I came up with a great CHEAP way to protect a micro reciever (I use a micro on my NMT). If you can slip the reciever into a film canister it will be both water proof and protected. THen you just cut a slit in the top of the canister, slip the wires through, and put the top on. It's pretty easy and I prefer this to a balloon.

[M16-A2]

I drove an hour each way to the sort facility, but yes I did get my stuff. I have a couple hours of work ahead of me today, as I find the design I want to use for the roll cages. If I have time to take pics after I start construction I will!

[gometro333]

For the roll cage just make one like Kedar's but I would add a piece in the front.

[M16-A2]

Actually I think my design is going to remove the plastic handle.
Then the rollcage will bolt to the shock towers using longer M3 screws and to the chassis where that handle used to be. It will be a full chassis design, but I have to work out a couple of details yet(it's all going well though, if only it were warming outside!).

[gometro333]

What I was thinking it going from the shock tower (attach to an unused shock mount) then across to where the hold handle used to be (replaced with part of new roll cage then you make an upside down U on the front chassis brace and have one piece that goes from handle to there. Here is a bad picture of what I mean.

[gometro333]

What I was thinking it going from the shock tower (attach to an unused shock mount) then across to where the hold handle used to be (replaced with part of new roll cage then you make an upside down U on the front chassis brace and have one piece that goes from handle to there.

[M16-A2]

LOL I'm having a blast making this cage. Right now I have some JB Weld hardening for a few hours, but I have 3 of the 5 chassis points complete, and the infrastructure of the cage shouldn't be too far behind.

At first it was a little tricky getting used to the new benders and tools I bought, but things are running pretty smooth now and I should get some pics for you tomorrow or Saturday:)(hopefully)

[smacked]

M16, I got threadlock in my axle and it wont budge, which mip cvd axle is correct for the NMT

[M16-A2]

smackedCheck your email.

[gometro333]

So guys what should we talk about? The weather? It's pretty cold here, but no snow yet. I'm still waiting.

[doesgo]

32 degrees F here in Minnesota, and it's not looking like summer is going to make a return appearance anytime soon. Guess I better get used to it.

So do you guys believe that boiling plastic parts (A-arms, shock towers, etc.) is beneficial or is this an old wives tale?

[gaus]

There is lots of snow here in Colorado. What are some of the do's and don't of running niro cars in the snow? I've wrapped up all my servos in plastic, etc..

gaus

[gometro333]

A must for snow running is tires that will get you going (paddles). Then just make sure water won't be able to get to ANY electronics. And it may be hard to start up your engine the first time, so wip out the hair dryer or heat gun and warm up the engine.

-Matt

[TitansGT4]

i run ma truck in da grass and the dirt, but i got da MTR so the tires i use r the pro line bow ties. Not the traction im lookin for. I was tryin 2 decide between the trac-ta-gators or some other spike tire that i dunno the name of. What do u think is a good tire for this truck?

[gometro333]

The Mulcher and Meat Grinder are great bashing tires but I have only seen them on a T-Maxx. Since they are made by Pro-line, chances are you can find something similar to them on pro-lines website>>>>Pro-lineracing.com (http://www.pro-lineracing.com)

[gometro333]

M16-A2

Could you possibly tell me the reserve on the metal spur gears your selling on ebay?

[TitansGT4]

thanks for the tire recommendation, even though none of those are for the MT, ill just get similar tread patterns in 2.2

[gometro333]

Ok I need help, my engine is pissing me off. Whenever I start it, teh car trys to run away from me and the only way I can get it stay is by holding the brake. I've tried adjusting the low-end needle but it still does it. HELP!!!

-Matt

[gometro333]

YEAH WOOO HOOO!!!! 25 PAGES!!!!!! WAY TO GO GUYS!!!!!!!!

-Matt

[M16-A2]

Turn the idle screw counter clockwise:)(to lower the idle)

[gometro333]

Ok thanks. I've decided to build a custom RC car. It's gonna include a weed wacker engine that I have a custom frame. Here's my question: what material should I build the frame from?

-Matt

[smacked]

GIMPS GET ONLINE SO I DONT HAVE TO POST! :D

[M16-A2]

Well here's my first "attempt" at making a roll cage. I saw attempt because I was using some tools for the first time, so this first model is kind of an "attempt" and future models will look much better. I'm planning on adding another bar running from the front rise to the front tower brace.

I took the cage out today and purposely flipped my truck with it, and it held up to everything I threw at it onroad. Next I'll see how functional it is when landing a bodged jump, and maybe make a revision or two if a weak point is discovered.

Oh well this is the first attempt, more to come later:
http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/images/1stgencage.jpg

[brassmonkey]

Hey m16-A2, weren't you the one who came up with the ram air for your nmt? The hpi site is down and I need to know how I can do ram air myself. Thanks in advance.

[M16-A2]

Its on my site under Tips & Mods.
www.gimpysracing.cjb.net

[LkHse]

damn man...that roll cage dont look the prettiest, but im sure it does the job, and as u go along u will get better at it. Of course i have no where to judge considering i could never even make a 2in strate pole..

[brassmonkey]

hhhmmmmmm... sweet! Thanks!

[M16-A2]

I agree it isn't the best looking cage, but now that I have the design and technique down you can bet that the next cage will look much better! One thing I noticed is that a cage made for aluminum shock towers won't fit the stock towers(there's about a 2mm difference).

Guess I may have to make one or two for the stock towers as well!

Oh well, that's another day I'm out for the night...

[TitansGT4]

New Era makes a roll bar, but they don't have a full cage. I was thinkin about buying it. I'm probably going to buy a micro RS4 w/ the money ive saved up, but i might just spend it on upgrades for the MT. What do you think the most important upgrades for the money are? I know i need titanium turnbuckles because i bent one of my steel ones already.

[LkHse]

I have heard that engines with more than 1hp will start bending the driveshaft and hurting the tranny gears...is this true, cause the Fantom .15 has 1.25...

[M16-A2]

It is true to a certain extent. Most of it depends on the gearing you use, and how you drive though. When I run my X12 with 13/52 gearing I can bend dogbones at will(no joke). However with the 18/52 gearing that I normally run, the engine still gives loads of acceleration and some astounding top speeds! Plus with the lower gearing the tranny and drivetrain components don't bend or break.

It's all in how you setup and run your truck, you just need to find a setup that is suitable to your engine and style.

[doesgo]

Where were you able to find an 18-tooth clutch bell? I've only seen the 11- to 15-tooth jobs out there (but I haven't looked too hard).

[TitansGT4]

what rims will fit the NMT with no modifications?(other than HPI)

[M16-A2]

Originally posted by doesgo
Where were you able to find an 18-tooth clutch bell? I've only seen the 11- to 15-tooth jobs out there (but I haven't looked too hard).
The Duratrax clutchbells range from 13-18T and fit the NMT if you change out the needle bearing for either 5x8 or 5x10 bearings depending on which bell you choose.

[M16-A2]

Originally posted by TitansGT4
what rims will fit the NMT with no modifications?(other than HPI)

RadTech makes some rims that will fit. (all aluminum rims though)

HPI has a pretty nice selection of rims, what are you looking for in particular?

[smacked]

hey gimme all ur AIM sn's :D mine is "smackedj00"

[TitansGT4]

I wanted to know if RPM stadium truck rear wheels would fit

[gometro333]

The only part I hate about nitro engines is a dead glow plug, oh and my PS gives me blisters.

[doesgo]

You can start a pull-start engine with a starter box, right?

[gometro333]

Unless you just invented a way, no not without modifying the crankshaft.

[doesgo]

Obviously I don't understand how it all works. :(

So, how's it all work? The flywheel on my NMT is accessible through the chassis like my neighbor's non-pull-start RC10GT, what's the difference if the crank is spun on one end by the pull-starter or on the other end by something spinning the flywheel?

[M16-A2]

Originally posted by gometro333
Unless you just invented a way, no not without modifying the crankshaft.

Actually you can! If you have a pullstart engine a starter box WILL work. The only thing that would keep you from using a starter box with a pullstart engine is if you put a non pullstart flywheel on the engine.

As long as you have pullstart engine mounts(which you obviously do if you run a pullstart engine), and a pullstart flywheel, then a starter box will work with the engine!

[doesgo]

Excellent! I may go that route if I come across a starter box at a good price sometime. Mostly just curious to see if it'd work. Yes, I've got a 15FE pullstart and the stock flywheel.

Is a non-pullstart flywheel smaller in diameter or something, thereby requiring different engine mounts?

Thanks,
Bruce

[M16-A2]

NonPS flywheel = 32mm
PS flywheel = 40mm

NonPS engine mounts = 15mm
PS engine mounts = 20 mm

Some company's give or take a mm or two, but those are the general standards.

[gometro333]

I had no idea you coud do that!! Then what happens to the one-way bearing at the pull starter?

[M16-A2]

You could take off the oneway if you're concerned, but it's made to spin in that direction anyway so it still works. Just make sure that your starter box is turning in the right direction and it all works!

[gometro333]

Interesting, thanks for the info.

[gometro333]

Oops, sorry I'm late but, YEAH WOOOO HOOO!!! 26 PAGES!! WAY TO GO GUYS!!:D :D

[smacked]

YAYAY

[gometro333]

YAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAY! !!!!!!

[foxrider6969]

o yea boys my hpi mt will walk all overs alll urs!!! i got a sweet almost new hpi mt w- a picco 2.6 horse .21 motor... that a hobby shop hooked me up and set up the whole truck.man does she rip.. i can out wheelie any one and out jump any one and of couse i kill the t-maxxz... but im sellin it!!!!!!!!!!!! just saw ur form and wanted to brag...

[gometro333]

So fox, why exactly did the HOBBY SHOP have to do all the work? Is it because you know nothing about cars? Or you're just plain stupid? Oh and I hope you replaced the drive train with something stronger because you're gonna tear it up badly with the stock one.

Just my 2 cents.

[PCC]

You're probabgly selling it because it's falling apart. My brother had a .21RG in his NMT and, after the break-in, he never ran a full 75cc tank through it until about the 20th tank. Even after upgrading everything in the drivetrain to the heavy duty stuff he was breaking things (HD diffs, CVD's, slipper clutch, thicker chassis, etc). Keep in mind the 21RG only makes 1.9HP.

[foxrider6969]

the hobby shop but it together because my freind works there and he talked me into buyin it.. and its not falling apart at all. i have put 20 tanks though it and not have a problem.. they put all hard steal in the front and rear drive trains and more stuff.and i do know a lot about trucks sooo , u need a atitude adjusment. and im selling it cuse the loc. track that they were making for .21 the city wouldnt lat them. soo its back to .12s,, have a nice form.. dont write back to me.

[nito mt 105]

hey kedar nice truck my old stock shocks leak out the threads and then i put t-maxx shocks on it and made the shock shafts the same length as the stock shocks . but anyway are those super shocks from hpi? do they work very well when jumping ? what weight oil can they hold up to?

[nito mt 105]

hey kedar nice truck my old stock shocks leak out the threads and then i put t-maxx shocks on it and made the shock shafts the same length as the stock shocks . but anyway are those super shocks from hpi? do they work very well when jumping ? what weight oil can they hold up to?

i can take pics of my truck but here is a list of everything i got on it is long

road rage tire on monsterclaw silver rims
motorsavers airfilter
MIP 9 FIN purple head
purple ti turnbuckles with the screw in rods ends that are purple
lowered t-maxx shocks w/ 55 weight oil
reciever proctor
steel hinge pins
purple fuel line
purple rear brace
purple big tube header
purple cvec
aluminum purple brake disc.

[kikcaffine]

wil the 2 speed from the rs4-3 fit in it?

[M16-A2]

I think I need a new fuel tank:)
I was running yesterday at the church, showing off for all the kids and teens there. After repeatedly doing 10-15 foot jumps I finally shut it down for the day.

Well yesterday I couldn't get the truck started(although I only tried for 5 mins or so). Today it fired right up, but ran a tank out in about 8 minutes, and there was plenty of fuel on the outside of the tank. Does this sound like a fuel leak to anyone else?

Anyway the new tank is on the way, guess I'll have to use my bros truck till then(if I can pry it from his hands).

[gometro333]

Take the tank out an fill it with water. If water leaks out then you have a leak. It could also be the fuel line. You could have some crud in it. Also, if you have an in-line fuel filter, it may be clogged. This happened to my friend.

[Mossdog]

Whew finally found out where everyone went from the HPI forums! I was having forum withdrawels.





http://mossdog.freeservers.com/images/im000737_(custom).jpg


Check out my website for more pics, and CUSTOM BUMPERS!

www.mossdog.freeservers.com

[Mossdog]

Well that didnt work, lets try this for some pics....

[Mossdog]

Bumper pic.

[G19]

M16-2A Good luck getting your bro's tuck. It does sound like a fuel leak to me. You probably found the leak allready. :D

[M16-A2]

Oh I found the leak as soon as I brought the truck in. You could see the fuel on the outside of the tank(not a good thing). Anyway it still runs, just for very short times(8 mins a tank). I have a new tank on the way along with some more metal gears!


As a side note, there was a guy on the HPI forums who sent me money for a metal gear. If you're reading this I have your gear made, but lost your shipping address!! I'd really like to get this gear out to you, so if you could please email me again I'd appreciate it!

Geez I hope I find the guy who sent me that check, I really need to get him his gear!

[G19]

I need a new tank for the wife's nmt. I have to order one. I'm sure the person who send the check will email you to see where their gear is. I hope he see your message. Maybe you'll find the address.

[doesgo]

Originally posted by Mossdog
Bumper pic.

Sooooo, do you make these or where are they from? Sure beats the stocker, from what I can see.

[TitansGT4]

hey guys, im working on a project truck!:D It's based on the HPI Jump MT in RC Nitro, i dont have any aluminum so far, cause im 13, and i need time to get money. I broke an A arm last Sunday wen my radio glitched, so im gonna replace it w/ aluminum and put titanium hinge pins in. thats just where im starting, then i get ti turnbuckles, RPM ball cups, then aluminum shocks, and then aluminum shock towers. after that comes a graphite upper deck, and a powerline 4mm chassis. Then i pick up some center universals, ball diffs, and an aluminum center block mount. AFter that, ill get the .21 conversion and put a big block in there. What do u guys think? any advice?

[M16-A2]

OH and throw in this engine as well:
http://www.speedzoneraceway.com/product.asp?0=293&1=313&3=801

For the 10 seconds it runs before ripping apart the drivetrain, it should be a lot of fun.:D

[TitansGT4]

oh i forgot about the drivetrain hahaha......i have a fantom .15 now, so what i'll probably do is switch to a more powerful small block. Such as that new outlaw sirio that puts out 1.9............or maybe that XTM .18 if i can figure out how to get it in my truck lol. Anyways thanks for the reminder before i waste ALOT of money. Any other advice would be helpful

[M16-A2]

Want a .18? I have an HB 18 for sale!

[kikcaffine]

how much> email me luckylosi@hotmail.com

[doesgo]

How do you like the Fantom 15? Is it not powerful enough for you?

[TitansGT4]

its great, and its really powerful, but what really makes me like it is the reliability.Anyone whos interested in this engine should go out and buy one. The reason i want a new engine, is because i want something more like a .21. Someone told me about a big block .15, but ive never heard of that. Anyone fill me in?

[M16-A2]

Isn't school fun? I'm sitting here in a computer lab on campus with absolutely nothing to do.(wish I had my truck with me) Dang this is boring and still an hour till the next class...

[Mossdog]

Hey doesgo the bumpers are made of plastic, shaped by hand by me and they are very durable, I have many tanks on them tested in various terrains. I bash with some guys with T-Maxx's and we run our trucks pretty rough, almost every outing I was damaging my front end somehow, but not anymore!

[doesgo]

I'll check out the website, the bumper looks pretty good!

[M16-A2]

It's always nice to have 2 NMT's in the house. Today while my brother was away he let me borrow his gas tank to test my theory that my tank was the problem. As soon as I switched tanks the engine fired right up and again was running like a dream!

In exchange for using his tank I promised to make him a new exhaust hanger using my new wire bending tools(makes rollcages and really neat exhaust hangers):D.

Guess I'll order 2 tanks so I can rig up dual tanks on my truck(150cc capacity)!

[bionictony]

since the hpi forum is down and i'm having withdrawals.. i clicked links and i wound up here. haha. i just got a nmt. its really rad.. its the rtr kit and i only got it for 150!

i have an engine question.. the .15ss is just a .15fe with abc?

[gometro333]

TitanGT4

Instead of the Titanium hinge pins, get the HPI SS Hinge Pins, surprisingly, the SS ones are stronger. I had the Ti ones and broke them, then I got the SS and I haven't broken them in a year.

[M16-A2]

Originally posted by bionictony
since the hpi forum is down and i'm having withdrawals.. i clicked links and i wound up here. haha. i just got a nmt. its really rad.. its the rtr kit and i only got it for 150!

i have an engine question.. the .15ss is just a .15fe with abc?

The 15SS is a lot more powerful than the 15FE. Yes the SS is abc construction which will make it last longer, but the engines design provides for higher RPM and HP ratings than the 15FE has.

For the NMT the 15SS is a perfect match, it's a great engine for bashing and offroad running!

[M16-A2]

Does this look busted to anyone else?

[bionictony]

i see a crack on the side bottom

[M16-A2]

Originally posted by bionictony
i see a crack on the side bottom

Very perceptive:p ;)

[HPjunkie]

Yep, your tank is cracked. You think you can get 1 125cc tank to fit your truck or can you get 2 75cc tanks to fit? M16 have you seen forums.rcinfo.co.uk yet? Keep us posted on the tank upgrade.
Nitrageous

[CWB]

Hello everyone.

I just traded my T-maxx for a mt racer and just wanted to say hello. i have been on the traxxas site for awhile under Baron. I cant wait till it comes.

[doesgo]

125cc tank for the NMT? :) Where can I find one?

[M16-A2]

I'll be putting 2 75CC tanks on my NMT. It's a very easy mod to do, and I'll post pics when the tanks come in!

I doubt I keep the second tank on, but I at least want it to do the mod so you can see what I mean!

[doesgo]

Why would you not leave the second tank on?

[M16-A2]

Well the extra fuel means extra weight, and that means less speed without adding any durability. I don't mind adding extra weight if it makes my truck durable, but a second tank is only good for long runtimes, and I can just as easily fill up every 12-15 mins. I don't know maybe after I do it, I'll like half hour runtimes and keep it that way, we'll just have to wait and see.

[PCC]

Two tanks? Been there, done that. The rear tank will break if you hit a jump and land on it. That's why I converted mines to the 125cc OFNA Ultra GT buggy tank.

[M16-A2]

Not if you run an aluminum cage for protection:)(oh ya this will be sweet)

[RAULMT]

I have a question.

What shock silicone oil weight should I use for an onroad setup, should I use thiker??

And can someone explain me what are offset wheels for?

Thanks!

[TitansGT4]

in the project NMT racer i told u bout, ive bin seriously considering puttin in a Big block .15. Someone said they dont strain the gears as much, but they put out more power than a normal .15. Ne1 know anythin about these, cause i really need the help:(

[M16-A2]

You'd be better off going for a sport .21. It'd be cheaper than most of the .15's out there. Novarossi makes a big block 15, as well as RB Concepts, but with that you're talking $250 an engine. With a sport .21 you get all the same stuff for about $115.

[M16-A2]

Anyone up for this?

[LkHse]

thats awesome..im gonna try that on my truck

[M16-A2]

Here's a better pic, with better fuel line routing.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/images/dualtank06.jpg

[M16-A2]

Originally posted by LkHse
thats awesome..im gonna try that on my truck

LKHSE, as per your request a front mounted gas tank(oh I can run 3 tanks now:))

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/images/front_tank01.jpg

[gometro333]

I think 3 tanks would be just a tiny bit insane.

[M16-A2]

I can fit a 4th:) Actually I think I could put loads of tanks on this truck using a steel tiered system. There's easily room for 4 tanks up front, and maybe 2-3 in the back:)

[RAULMT]

The Unofficial HPI Community Forum (http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/index.php)

[LkHse]

wow thats pretty cool man...u said u get like 40min of run time...good god man...cant believe the engine doesnt blow up after runnin for 40min consistently. i gota try that stuff :)

BTW...you think u could fit one on top of the battery case?

[TitansGT4]

i gotta nother ???. If i make my MTR all aluminum w/ a Fantom .15, and the new fantom steel pipes, will it still be really fast? I dont wanna put a .21 in for the sake of my drive train but i dont wanna hav another Tmaxx(i hav the old 1 that does 27 mph). i ripped an arm last week, and i hav a spare, but i want aluminum. i dont want da truck 2 be slow tho, so gimme ur opinions.

[M16-A2]

Originally posted by LkHse
wow thats pretty cool man...u said u get like 40min of run time...good god man...cant believe the engine doesnt blow up after runnin for 40min consistently. i gota try that stuff :)

BTW...you think u could fit one on top of the battery case?

What do you mean on top of the battery case? My NMT doesn't have a battery case:)

[gaus]

I don't understand why you want more than one gas tank. I don't mind pulling my car in to refuel and also check up on a few things sometimes... I'm sure I'll just never know what I'm missing... until it falls off my car and screws everything up.

gaus

[M16-A2]

I like it because at our farm I usually walk while running my truck. Sometimes I walk half a mile or more while bashing, and since my engine is nonPS it helps to be able to get long run times. Just one of those things I guess:)

[gaus]

Well, that makes sense to me.

gaus

[doesgo]

I'd like to publicly thank M16 for pointing me towards the new Fantom engines on eBay for cheap (got mine for $105) and for the confirmation that it's a direct bolt-in replacement. I was worried when I saw the crank and thought, "there's no way that's going to work!".

I was pleasantly surprised, however, to find that the swap was a perfect swap.

I've got it installed now, I just have to get the new purple AE pipe on and then start the break-in. I'm hoping for wonderful things.

Bruce

[Mossdog]

Keep us posted on how it performs! In the spring I am hoping to get a new engine/pipe combo and I want to know whats the best option for the NMT.:p

[TitansGT4]

fantom engine iz great isnt it?!

[brassmonkey]

I was reading my brand new crisp rc car action and just cruised past some picco engines, will a .15 picco engine work in a nmt? What kind of engine do I need (i.e. sg shaft, rotaty carb, round exahast)? Thanks in advance!



edit: oh yeah, I busted my rear diff, I haven had the time to take it apart yet, but whenever I gas it, there is a loud clicking noise, my freind tells me I stripped a diff gear. Any suggestions on how to prevent this from happening again in the future?

[smacked]

I had the same problem. Make sure its not the spur gear. I broke a tooth off mine a few weeks ago and it made a similar clicking noise.

[M16-A2]

This is very strange... I posted here about 20 minutes ago, but it's not there.. Ok, so I'll say this stuff again.

brassmonkey: You need a standard crankshaft, and you can use either rotary or slide carb. As for exhaust you don't want a round port side exhaust, try and find one that is like the FE(or whatever engine you used last).
As for the diffs, that very well could be a reason why you'd hear that noise. To prevent this from happening you might want to make sure the diffs are shimmed correctly, and you have plenty of grease in them!

[brassmonkey]

hmmmm. I'll be sure to check my spur.

M-16 A2: Do you think packing the diffs full of diff oil will work to prevent this?

Thanks for the replys!

[M16-A2]

Packing the diffs will help, but if you don't have them shimmed properly all the grease in the world won't help. You can check this page to make sure you've shimmed correctly:
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/nmt/mtdiff.jpg

[brassmonkey]

if the rtr has 'em they're in there. Do you think I should replace all the diff gears?

[M16-A2]

Diff gears are one of those parts, you don't replace them till they break. If you have destroyed a 38T or 13T final gear, you may want to consider getting the HD versions(even though they're pricy). If you're on a tight budget only get the rear HD gears(as most power goes through the rear).

I'm not sure if the RTR comes with the diffs already shimmed or not? I guess it would all depend on when the RTR was manufactured, because not every kit came with the updated shims included.

[TitansGT4]

i want to buy da ball diffs for this truck, but i hav a 1 hp motor. Do they bust balls (dont laugh)alot?

[M16-A2]

Ball diffs are not recommended for offroad running, especially with a 1HP engine. Trust me on this one, you don't want to run ball diffs. A better buy would be getting Heavy Duty finals in the rear.

If you just put the HD finals in the rear, then you'll have the extra set of stock gears to use in the front should the fronts break.

[gometro333]

I'm going to the track today with my friend (he has a T-Maxx) and we're gonna race. See ya

[PCC]

I posted this in the now defunct HPI forums some time ago.

These diffs will cost you around $80 to build, per end but will last a long time if built right.

The parts you need to buy are:
HPI Nitro Rush outdrives
HPI HD diff gears
HPI NRS4-3 diff bevel gears
HPI NMT Racer diff halves
Shock O-rings
HPI Diff O-rings
some automotive high-temp sealant
some good diff fluid, probably one or two thicknesses less than you would normally run
some good grease

When building the diffs, make sure you clean the outer diff housing really good if you are reusing them (I suggest you start with new housings as the parts tree is relatively cheap). Take your time building them and make sure you shim them right.

First you take the rear diff gear (the big one) and install the metal ring on it as normal. You insert one of the diff O-rings on the outdrive and apply a little silicon lube on it before inserting it into the gear. You then place a shock O-ring onto the small end of the outdrive and press on a small bevel gear and the E-clip. Yes, it's a tight fit and, yes, it does go together. Do the same for the other side. When the two halves are ready to be put together, minus the remaining small bevel gears, you fill the plastic diff housing about half-way with the silicon diff fluid, careful not to get any on the top edge of the housing where the two halves meet. Install the remaining bevel gears and apply a thin bead of the automotive sealant on the edge of the plastic housing where it meets the large metal bevel gear. Then you assemble the two halves, careful not to let the diff fluid touch the sealant until the sealant has cured.
When you are ready for final assembly, remember not to grease anything until after you have shimmed the diff properly. Assemble the diff housings as normal without the grease and check for play. Start shimming until there is either very little play or none at all but no binding whatsoever. At this point, you take it apart and grease up the bevel gears liberally with a good grease and assemble the housing. That's it.

The shock O-ring serves the triple purpose of taking out the play in the small bevel gears inside the diff, stiffening up the diff action a bit, and sealing the diff fluid inside. You can use grease inside instead of the silicon fluid, which means you won't need to seal the diff halves with the automotive sealant but I prefer silicon fluids.

The Nitro Rush outdrives are longer and stronger than the stock outdrives and even HPI's so-called "HD" ones that aren't much more than chrome plated standard outdrives.

The NRS4-3 diff bevel gears (the small ones inside the diff that attach to the outdrives) are machined steel instead of the cast potmetal gears that HPI has been using for years. Comparing these to the older gears is like comparing the stock big bevel gear to the HD bevel gear.

Hope this helps!

[TitansGT4]

thanks! and btw, cutting yourself w/ an x acto isnt much fun. I was cutting out the body for my maxx, and well, ouch,:p

[M16-A2]

Hmm I wouldn't think that would feel too good...

Personally I use my Dremel to cut out bodies. On a low speed the dremel can form to any curve and makes perfect cuts! It's also great for cutting out windows and mounting holes, because you can change the bit size you use to match the cut!

[brassmonkey]

$80! Whew! my mom got mad this morning for me spending $16 for new gears and motor spray.

[gometro333]

Yeah $80 an end is a little steep.

[TitansGT4]

guys, my finger kills, I dont wanna get stiches. I'll use lexan scissors from now on lol

[RJ88]

I keep breaking my shock shafts on my mt! Does anyone know where I can get stronger shafts like titanium for these shocks? I've broken about 6 shafts now and its gettng very frustrating.

[Mossdog]

You must be doing some serious bashing! I have been beating on my NMT for several months and have never bent a shock shaft. I did blow the end caps off the stockers all the time till I went with the powerline shocks. Which by the way also have a minor defect.......there is an e-clip and small spacer which mounts on top of the shock piston, for some reason the e-clip on one of my front shocks keeps falling off and the shock goes all limp. I have replaced the e-clip and spacer/washer a few times already!

[M16-A2]

If you look for aftermarket shocks, you need to seriously consider the Kyosho Twin Caps! They're aluminum shocks that have some serious durability.(I've never had a problem, even after crashing 40 foot jumps)

Also the twin caps are cheap, you can get all 4 for under $50!!

[PCC]

Well, $80 for the rear at least. You can get away with using stock diff ring and pinion gears instead of that expensive $50 HD set in the front of the NMT but then you will be replacing both the front and rear sets at the same time when they wear out. If you put the $80 set in the front then these will outlast the stock or rears somewhere around 3:1.

[M16-A2]

Hey guys,

I'm trying to do a little market research here. I have the opportunity to get some free CAD work and machine time. I also have a supplier offering me 6al-4v titanium and some aluminum and steel alloys for cheap.

My question is, what parts would you like to see made the most for your NMT? For example stronger dogbones (titanium maybe), are at the top of my list so I can gear my X12 for low end. Also maybe bevel gears would be a wise choice(made of hardened steel)?

I'd like to hear what you think though...

[gometro333]

YOU SHOULD MAKE RIMS!!! That would be pretty cool. A custom design, and they would never break!

Anyways.....

I could see Ti dogbones, but why not CVD's. Let's face it, CVD's are better. How about chassis braces (I don't mean better a better version of the one the car comes with)? I filmed my NMT with the body off going of a jump (not the best idea) and I saw when it landed, the chassis actually flexed! I realize that HPI says it's made to do that that for shock absorbtion, but let's face it, that's just a cover up for making a bad chassis. Any more flex and it would have snapped! Or some bumpers would be cool (but not worth it). How about Ti diff housings? That would just look AWESOME!!!! Oh and it would help a lot...Maybe?

Honestly, the sky's the limit. You could just make current parts better Infact there is a commercial I just saw for some company that does that. They say, "We don't make the products you buy, we make them better."

Oh yeah, how much are you selling those roll cages for?

Peace out!

-Matt

[M16-A2]

Given that Rad Tech makes aluminum rims and can't sell them for anywhere near what they need to, I think I'd hold off on making those.
Diff housing would need a lot of work on a cutter, and would probably run in the $100 per housing if made from Ti(and most won't pay anywhere near that).

I wanted to make Ti doggies, but make them about 2mm longer than the HPI part(so you wouldn't worry about them popping out in the front). They'd also be much lighter, and many times more durable.

It's just a thought, keep the ideas coming!

[brassmonkey]

Not to change the subject, but after 2 hours of removing e clips I have finnally gotten all the e clips back on. I ended up having to remove the washer on the outdrive to make it fit.


E-CLIPS SUCK!!!
just my .02 yen

[M16-A2]

If you use needle nosed pliers e-clips are very easy to remove and put back on!

[brassmonkey]

I did use needle nose pliers, I ended up just plain destroying the e clips

[stman]

does anybody own or know if the Kyosho GP Wild Dodge Ram w/.15 Engine QRC is any good?
Is the Duratrax Maximum MT w/TORQ .16 better?
They are both on towerhobbies.com:(

[gometro333]

In order to sell more, you might want to make center Ti dogbones. That would open your market to more people because the NMT Racer kit comes with CVD's and I don't know any people who would switch CVD's for Ti dogbones, even if they are really light. Having center dogbones would open your market to all MT owners.

Just my 2 cents

-Matt

[M16-A2]

After consulting a local(who's custom designed more than $3600 for his Maxx), I've decided to go with 7075 aluminum instead of Ti. Not only will this bring the price down drastically, but it will also be of comparable strength and durability!

If anyone want's pics of the custom parts this guy has designed and made please email me:)

BTW, your chassis is 6061 aluminum and 7075 is about twice as strong as 6061.(just in general numbers so you get an idea)

[gometro333]

Yeah could I get those pics


----->MPBHockey3@aol.com<-----

[M16-A2]

Pics were sent, geez these forums are slow...

[smacked]

Which color/hardness shock springs do yall use for offroading im getting the kyosho twin caps...

[Lanc3r]

Hi!! I just registered for this forum, after HPI decided to can their own forums...

I can vouch for the twin caps, except i got the twin cap pro version ( dunno if it is the same thing)...All the caps of my old shocks popped off at the same time while i was jumping a double, and i could never trust them from that point on...the twin cap pro's are the teflon-body ones with the bronze-colored caps...

Does anyone know if the megatech M16 is a good engine? and will it fit? I've heard some good things about it, but the threaded crank scares me a bit.. I'm not a crank person, so I wouldn't know if this setup will work. As far as i know, the nitro star engines have IPS's, just like the new TRX 2.5...

E-clips are annoying, yes. But getting them off is easy. Dont use needle nose pliers... If you have the least bit of nails sticking out of your fingers, use your left thumb nail to hold 1 end of the e-clip, while pushing with your right thumb nail away from the opening on the e-clip...For putting them on, needle nose pliers are the best device found so far..

Strangely, I also got an offer to make some parts from titanium and/or aluminum. But in this case, I'll be doing the CAD work myself..My CAD teacher is getting a CNC machine in the shop, because he plans to teach the seniors to drill rotors or something..And he said his friend might be able to hook me up with some chro-moly (heavy, strong, stuff used to make bike frames) titanium ( i dont know which grade) and aluminum alloy(7075 i believe)for cheap.. goody, goody! The first thing i have planned, and am in the process of dimensioning, is a Ti chassis, much like the GPM optional chassis...

well, I guess i'm caught up for the first page..Didnt mean to write a novel..heh :D

[M16-A2]

Any engine from .12-.18 with a standard(threaded) crank will easily fit the NMT.

The M16 is a pretty decent engine and will produce some reliable power in the NMT.

[G19]

smacked
I use HPI black springs when racing and bashing around the back yard. If I going to do some big jumps. I use HPI blue springs.


This forum is a little slow.
BTW I run 40 wt shock oil. I going to 30 wt. I do have twin caps.

[G19]

I agree w/ M16-a2 about the m16 engine. I am use one in my NMT. The pull rope is weak. That is my only problem w/ it.

[Lanc3r]

Is the M16 better than the Fantom 15? and are they both better than the 15ss? I think im going to get an engine for the holidays, since i just found a crack in my crankcase, and I dont want to go all the way to big-block or .21 power..

Here are my choices:

XTM .15
Fantom 15
Megatech M16
HPI 15SS
Trinity/Picco .15

I dont have enough cash for a starter box, so I'm going to definetely get a pullstart..And I want to get enough power to beat a '03 MAXX..

Lanc3r

[M16-A2]

If you look on ebay you'll find brand new Fantom 15's for around $100. That's probably the best bang for the buck engine on the market right now!

[gometro333]

I have the 15ss and i love it. cya guys

[doesgo]

I don't have a lot of experience with nitro engines, but so far I don't care for the HPI .15FE. I've replaced it with a Fantom FR15 with a rotary carb in my NMT and it's light-years better. Very fast, at least in comparison to the FE. I've heard many people say Fantom's rotary carbs suck, but I haven't run mine enough to know. No doubt it's better than the FE's single-needle job. I've also heard that the Fantom engine isn't that great overall, but I'm not sure why, and I'm not sure if that's just one man's opinion or a general consensus.

Yesterday I spent some quality time with my newly-aquired Losi XXX-NT with a Wasp .12 with a rotary carb. OMG!!! :D That thing is crazy-fast! Again, my experience is very limited, but holy cow is that a nice engine. Starts great, idles great, and runs STRONG and reliably. Wheelies on command with Dirt Hawgs, even from a roll. Nice engine. Not cheap, however, at $180 for a pull-start, rotary carb version.

Summary: so far I don't care for the FE, my Fantom experience has been good (tough to start a couple times, but I've not had time to set the idle or low-speed mixture so hopefully that will ease the starting), and my Wasp experience has been great.

[doesgo]

Does anyone have experience with the nitro Rush and either the Losi XXX-NT or the RC10GT? I'm wondering if the Rush is just as good, nearly as good, great, or generally a piece of junk. Obviously they don't have the intense following that the Losi and Associated trucks do, I'm wondering why.

Also, do they take a short crank or the SG style (SG is the long one, the one that's in the NMT, right?)

Thanks.

[gometro333]

I've used the RC10 and the XXX-NT and they are both great cars. Although I have never used the Rush I've only heard bad things about it. I hear the chassis brakes even on a small hit. But the XXX-NT and RC10GT are both very reliable, and if you're debating on which to get both come in an RTR form and both come in a "pre-upgraded" or race ready forms. Go to your LHS and they probably have both there that you can used, because they are so popular.

Peace

Matt

[doesgo]

I know this is weird, but I actually already have an RC10GT and a XXX-NT. I got a great deal on both together and planned to sell them to make a little money to feed the habit. :)

Well, after driving the Losi with the Wasp .12 engine, WOW is that a fun truck! I assume the GT is as well, but it needs a clutch and spur before I can drive it. I'd love to keep both, but the wife sez I must sell them. Now someone is posting a roller Rush on the R/C Zone Buy/Sell forum for rather cheap, and I've got a spare O.S. CV-RX with a cut crank that's looking for a home, as well as a spare radio and servos.

So I can't keep the GT or NT, but I think I could swing a cheap Rush. But if it's a POS then I don't want it.

Thanks for the input.

[M16-A2]

Well, here goes nothing:)

[doesgo]

Any chance you could post a brighter picture? What I can see looks good, but I can't see much...

[M16-A2]

...

[doesgo]

Whoa, that's quite a setup! With that cage, do you skip the body entirely? What wheels and tires are those?

[M16-A2]

I rarely use a body anyway, so the cage is much more practical.
Tires: Proline Gladiators

[doesgo]

I'm tired of replacing the AA batteries in my NMT and would like to switch to rechargeables. Will four AA rechargeables suffice? They'd only be 4.8 volts while dry cells total 6.0 volts. I'd like to go that route so they'd fit in the stock location

If the voltage isn't high enough, however, what's my alternative? Five of the little stubby batteries and just slide them in the same location?

[M16-A2]

A 5-cell Rx pack in a 2-3 configuration(2 cells on top, 3 on bottom) will fit in the stock tray without modification. There are loads of packs available so you can pick whatever you'd like.

[doesgo]

5-pack...looks like that's what you've got, based on your picture above. What size are those cells, anyway? I know them when I see them, I'm just curious as to what they're called.

I landed very hard nose-down yesterday at a BMX track and broke my AA battery holder deal. Rather than buy a new one and fight with dry cells again, i'll get the rechargeables.

Do you guys put a Dean's plug between the pack and the receiver to charge them?

[M16-A2]

I use the standard airtronics 2 wire connector. I think they are sub-C(??), and I use an Intellipeak to charge:)

[RJ88]

Does anyone know where to get aluminum c-hubs for the mt? Powerline makes c-hubs for the rs4, would they fit my mt?

[M16-A2]

There were a handful on the HPI forums who said the RS4 c-hubs fit the NMT. Personally I haven't tried it, but if you order them from Tower, take good care of the packaging, and don't scratch or dirty the hubs you could always send them back if they don't fit:)

[gometro333]

I just got the Powerline aluminum sterring thingy, and I can't get the upper deck back on for some reason. It was always realy hard to do, but with a little elbow grease it was possible. But now I can't get the chassis brace on (the thing that connects the fronts end to the upper deck. HELP!

-Matt

[M16-A2]

Ohh it's purple

[Lanc3r]

hobby etc. (http://www.hobbyetc.com) has a bunch of aluminum parts for the NMT, as well as most other HPI vehicles. I've heard (from kedar's site) that the 2x3 pack hangs over the edge of the chassis if you have an optional top deck installed...That's why i still have the swing-out radio tray. Besides, im not really a rechargeable battery type of person...charging them is just too confusing with the charge rates and everything...

zZot