Nitro MT and MT Racer Forum

[Lanc3r]

Originally posted by M16-A2
Ohh it's purple

Is that anodized? or is it just spray-painted?

[team_luigis]

ive heard that hpi trucks arent reliable after a while is it true?
apparently there fragile and they dont resist to big jumps?:confused:

thanks

[M16-A2]

It's an enamel paint, very durable and should hold up(for the first roll or two).

Anodizing would be too expensive for just a single part. I may consider allodizing a cage or two, as that process or much cheaper.

[M16-A2]

Originally posted by team_luigis
ive heard that hpi trucks arent reliable after a while is it true?
apparently there fragile and they dont resist to big jumps?:confused:

thanks

Definately not true! I consistently jump my truck 40+ feet and after 3 years have only broken a handful of parts.(few a-arms and a shock tower)

The a-arms are the most fragile part of the truck(as they should be), but still won't break easily, unless you run W0T into a curb or land a jump completely or repeatedly wrong.

[doesgo]

I guess it depends on what you compare their toughness to. It took a fall off my roof to finally break something on my friend's electric MT, and this was after jumping dozens of time over my pickup truck and landing all sorts of ways.

Until this past Wednesday, my NMT broke only one front A-arm and a rear shock tower (total cost $10 for both repairs - and that $10 got me a bunch of spare parts on the part tree! I love spare parts). Wednesday I landed square on the nose after flying about 25' horizontally and 6' vertically off a BMX track jump. I lost one body pin and broke the AA receiver battery holder. Not the swing-out housing, just the little thing the batteries make contact with. Cost to fix would be about $2, but bought a rechargeable receiver pack which I was already planning to do, so it really cost me nothing other than loss of drive time.

That same day my friend jumped about 5' horizontally and 1'-2' vertically with his T-Maxx, landed funny, cartwheeled, and broke his front bulkhead. He was done for the day. Repair cost? $40+.

That same day we broke an RC10T (rear A-arm mount - $2), an RC10 (old buggy - front wheel - $5), an electric MT (stripped spur gear - $4 - owner's fault, pinion gear wasn't loctited), and a Losi XXX-NT (bent fron axle stub - $3).

So yes, HPIs break, and so does everything else. WHAT breaks and how often and how hard repairs are is the real question in my opinion. MT a-arms break. I like that. They're easy to replace and they're cheap. Some people upgrade to aluminum, which is stronger, but then something else has to take the shock load, and it's something else that's harder to replace and possibly more expensive.

Remember the KISS principle.

That's my nickel's worth.

[CWB]

Does anyone have a list of sites where i can find bodies , rims . Or any other cool sites with parts. Towerhobbies only has some of the things i am looking for.

Also has anyone run the 2 speed tranny off road? how well built is it?

will any other truck rims fit the mt?

[brassmonkey]

Proline has a massive collection of bodies, rims? What kind of rims are you looking for? Aluminum rims? www.radtechracing.com flimsy plastic? www.hpiracing.com

M16-a2: are the hpi ti turnbuckles reliable, as in not pooping doing cartwheels?

edit: oh yeah, is the grahite upper deck any good?

[Lanc3r]

as i said before, www.hobbyetc.com go to the vehicle section on the left menu, go to HPI nitro (selecting from the pull-down menu, cause the thingies dont work if you just click on them) then select Nitro MT (once again, from the pull-down menu) and viola!! you have about 150 upgrade parts for the NMT...Wheels...i really dont use websites to buy wheels, I just buy them at "your local friendly hobby shop"
I have heard contradictory reports on the 2-speed tranny off-road. All the people on the HPI site forum said that the 2-speed breaks easily of-road, and a slipper clutch is a much better investment. Several people at the local hobby shop have NMT's too, and theirs have 2-speeds installed. They have never complained about it breaking, and they do run of road...how much more off road can you get than an abandoned construction site in the middle of the woods (dont ask)?

zZot

[Mossdog]

BrassMonkey I have had no problems with my Ti Buckles popping, I am using RPM Ballcups with HG Ti Ballends, although I try and avoid cartwheeling (but still do!) I have had no "Pop outs" yet. Finally the Graphite UD really stiffened up my NMT, I am real pleased with it (aside from more stuff to keep tight). Just my two cents!:D

[Mossdog]

BrassMonkey I have had no problems with my Ti Buckles popping, I am using RPM Ballcups with HG Ti Ballends, although I try and avoid cartwheeling (but still do!) I have had no "Pop outs" yet. Finally the Graphite UD really stiffened up my NMT, I am real pleased with it (aside from more stuff to keep tight). Just my two cents!:D

[gometro333]

Did you really need to say it twice?:confused:

[brassmonkey]

Mossdog: Yeah, I got the thought of the grapite upper deck from your website, lot of nice pics there. I like the custom bumper you made, are you still selling it? $15 sounds like a deal, rear bumper too (don't know why you would need it though). How are your black star truck rims holding up? Do they chip easy like the chrome mesh ones?

[gometro333]

In case someone tries to take you from behind!!!:D :D :D :D

[brassmonkey]

lol good point.:D

[doesgo]

I've got two pair of Pro-Line Mashers for my NMT. One set was new, one was used. Neither set came with foam inserts. New Masher 2000s come with foam.

I've got 2.2" tire foams, but they don't really fill the Mashers, and I can't find Masher-specific foam on the Web.

Do Mashers need foam inserts? If so, should I just run the regular 2.2" foams?

[doesgo]

Any reason I can't solder an antenna wire? Mine broke and I don't want to dig into the receiver. Or is there a better way to repair it?

[gometro333]

Where did the antenna rip?

[doesgo]

Right at the base of the mast. The mast had broken and when I pulled the body off it took the mast and wire with it.

[gometro333]

You could just try stripping it a little and using electrical tape. It won't look as pretty as it used to and it may be a little shorter but it should to the trick.

-Matt

[doesgo]

Good idea. Maybe I'll use shrink-wrap instead, should be more secure.

[gometro333]

Sounds good to me.

-Matt

[brassmonkey]

I am looking for a decent $150 engine that will pull out some decent horses and adequete torque for my nmt. Any ideas? I prefer rotary carb and need pullstart too.

+ If I stuck a adustable slipper clutch on there and loosened it a bit, would it be enough to keep the engine from bombing my drive train?

[mawapa]

i just ordered the os cvrx. i also got the traxxas t-maxx header and ae torque tuned header. how will this combo make my NMTR perform?

[mawapa]

ae pipe...sorry

[doesgo]

Originally posted by brassmonkey
I am looking for a decent $150 engine that will pull out some decent horses and adequete torque for my nmt. Any ideas? I prefer rotary carb and need pullstart too.

+ If I stuck a adustable slipper clutch on there and loosened it a bit, would it be enough to keep the engine from bombing my drive train?
I'm VERY impressed by the Orion Wasp engine, at least the .12 version. They also make .15s and .18s. Not sure on the prices, though.

Everyone gushes over the O.S. CV-RX engine, although I think they're a bit over $150. Fantoms can be had for $110. And so on.... :)

[mawapa]

i read somewhere that fantoms were a little short on the bottom end but ripped up the top...

[doesgo]

So far I'd have to agree with that, although I haven't had time to tune my low-speed needle and I still have the stock clutch. It really does rev though, it sounds like it revs higher than the Wasp .12, but who really knows?

Comparing the Fantom FR15 in my NMT to the Wasp .12 in my Losi XXX-NT isn't a very good comparison.

[Wallis Racing]

Hey guys,
Just one question:)
The age old question of tires. I want the softest, gripy-est, sticky-est, best-est tires there are. 2.2inch truck tires of course. life span is not an issue. please help. seeing as proline is about the only company that makes good tires, i was looking on their site and am thinking that the 'SPEED HAWGS 2.2 TRUCK PRO1080' are my best bet. anyone else have an opinion of onroad tires?

right now i am currently using bald M2 bowties on the road, and they are sick, LOL. after about 20secs they are red hot and hardly ever break traction, so if you guys cant recomend any good on-road tires, then i will prolly get some M3 bowties, wear them out in the dirt, then use them for on-road action. but i would prefer some proper on-road tires.

thanks,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[dannyboy75555]

www.gpmracing.com (http://www.gpmracing.com)


that is the best site to hop up your mt with purpel alloy parts
shock towers, aluminum a arms it is the best man the prices r a bit high though

[dannyboy75555]

this week im putin a .21 in my mt:D kick ass im gonna put 1 tank on in back so i dont have to refuel every 5 min:) if any one has put a .21 in can you tell me what you had to doim planning on hyper 7 8 port or .21 os both with pull carb:) can any one make alum a arms for under 50 $ for me 50 for all 4 i blew stock engine piston with under a gallon of fuel lol and my pico lasted a year im ready to do some serius basin with my .21

ps i have two speed ill hit like 65 mph to 75mph that is kick ass

[stealthpenguin]

Hey-

I am new to nitro R/C cars, and have been researching them for the past week or so. I am really interested in the RS4 MT and was wondering how intensive the matainance is. I've looked at the HPI website and their tutorials about matainance and it seems extremely thorough, is this how it is in real life?

Also, how often do you need to replace parts? If it is frequent, then maybe I should just buy a lot of parts when i purchase the car so that I will have them available.

Although I haven't totally decided on the RS4 MT, this is what I'm looking for.

- Recreational car (not for racing)
- Doesnt need to be really fast
- About $300 or less
- Able to run off and on road
- Fairly durable/reliable
- Easy to maintain

Thanks!

[Mossdog]

StealthPenguin, based on what you are looking for I would say that the NMT is just right for you! The 15 FE is very easy to tune and is quite a relieable engine (although it can run a little hot!) The NMT handles great both on and off road with little modifications. I would recommend to you that you get some spare A-Arms, they are on a "tree" that comes with some other handy spare parts, you may want to get some spare shock towers as well, the "trees" are relatively cheap and will keep you running instead of waiting for parts to come in. Remember to boil your A-Arms before running your truck, it allows the molecules in the plastic to "relax" a little bit allowing them to flex in a crash. Go for it the NMT rocks, you wont be dissapointed!

Check out my site, it might help sway your decision! :D

www.mossdog.freeservers.com

[Mossdog]

BRASSMONKEY, yes I am still selling bumpers for the NMT. They are very durable. They are 15 dollars a SET, shipping included! (in North America) The rear bumper prevents damage from rear impacts/landings and also acts as a carry handle. (I could actually send you two front bumpers instead of the front/rear set if you are interested) Me and my T-Maxx owning buddys did some experimenting with head on collisions at WOT about a dozen times at various angles of impact and there was no damage to my NMT or the bumper! After over a gallon of fuel they are only scratched up a little.
Flip me an email at mossdognmt@yahoo.com if you want some more information/specifications on the bumpers.

[brassmonkey]

I finnally got the time to run my nmt today with the diffs packed with oil. It seems to me like the car is very very unstable at 25+ mph. The car drifts to the side too (left and right). I haven't had the time to run it off-road, but on-road, the car drift to the side and spins out a lot on slippery sufaces (sidewalk). Is this supposed to happen?

[Mossdog]

Are your servos twitching? You may be getting interference or glitching, check all your electrical connections, I once had a similar problem and upon inspection found that I had a small cut in my antenna wire. Also make sure that your steering assembly is not loose and your wheelnuts are tight enough. The NMT normally handles excellent, if your trim and electrics/mechanics are good it should run a straight line from stand still to WOT. If you are running Mashers I would suggest a stronger steering servo as well, when I put on my Mashers the stock HPI servo had a hard time turning the mashers consistantly. After my first rebuild on my diffs (packed with grease) my NMT was a little sluggish until the grease worked itself in, but I had no handling problems. Hope you find the problem!

[stealthpenguin]

mossdog-

Being the R/C imbecile that I am, I have NO idea what an A-arm is, can you explain?

[M16-A2]

A-Arm
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/p/plrc7003.jpg

[stealthpenguin]

yes, i figured it looked something like an A... but what is its purpose?

[M16-A2]

It attaches to the shocks and the axle, which holds the wheel on.

[stealthpenguin]

ok ok,

so, how many spare parts should i buy when i get this truck?

and which ones?

[Mossdog]

I would recommend some spare glow plugs, a fuel filter, an aftermarket air filter. The stock plastic turnbuckles pop off very easily, aftermarket turnbuckles and ball cups are a good idea as well. As for spare plastic you should get the A-Arms for sure as well as a couple spare dogbones.

HPI part # A-arms A456 $5
Tower set A346 $7
Dogbones A554 comes in pairs $6

Buying stock replacement parts is really cheap and having spare parts is better than not driving when you do bust something!

Check HPI's website and hit the instructions link, you will find the entire manual for the NMT online there to get an idea where and what the formentioned parts are.

[Mossdog]

Does it bother anyone else that this is just one long gigantic run on thread, I wish there was more columns!

[stealthpenguin]

is it possible to just get metal parts instead?
wouldnt that make it much less prone to breaking?

also, i read that by replacing the bushings that come stock with ball bearings can help reliability and performance. is this true?

I am planning on running this both on and off road. Therefore, would it be advised to get another set of tires designed for the road?

Where do you buy your parts from?

[doesgo]

Originally posted by Mossdog
Does it bother anyone else that this is just one long gigantic run on thread, I wish there was more columns!
YES!!!

But ever since HPI's own forums went down, we don't have too many other good options.

[doesgo]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
is it possible to just get metal parts instead?
wouldnt that make it much less prone to breaking?

also, i read that by replacing the bushings that come stock with ball bearings can help reliability and performance. is this true?

I am planning on running this both on and off road. Therefore, would it be advised to get another set of tires designed for the road?

Where do you buy your parts from?
First, the plastic parts aren't "prone" to breaking. They break easier than aluminum, but they're ultra cheap, aluminum is expensive. Also, aluminum doesn't flex. If it bends, it stays bent.

I prefer to leave the a-arms plastic. If you get aluminum a-arms (they are available), then they're so tough and rigid that the shock loads under impact are transferred to something else. First it'd be the arm pivot pins, so you upgrade to stainless steel or titanium. Okay, those are good, so the pin mount is next in line. Sure enough, available in aluminum. But what's after that? I'm not ever sure, actually. The chassis? Buy a 4mm chassis and then you start shearing off screw heads because there's absolutely no give or flex in the system. That's great in a real car because you don't hit stuff (hopefully), but in a 1:10 R/C car, you hit stuff. And land wrong.

So I prefer to control the weak point in the system. What's the best thing to be the weak point? Something that's cheap and easy to fix. Of those items I listed, the cheapest and easiest is the a-arms. Maybe $5 for an a-arm "parts tree" and you get two arms and some other minor parts.

I've broken two a-arms and one shock tower so far. Total repair cost was about $10. Cheap enough to carry spares with you so there's only about a half-hour of downtime at the most.


Yes, ball bearings are a worth investment, but the nitro MT RTR comes with full bearings, as does the NMT Racer.

Regarding tires, I'm no expert, but I've found the Dirt Hawgs to be the best tires for on- AND off-road use! If my on-road use was restricted to carpet or super-smooth raceways I might feel differently, but on my driveway and street and all the other places I drive, the Dirt Hawgs are top Dawg. I've got them on my other two R/C cars as well, as do my truck-driving friends. They're simply great all-around tires. One guy bought Dirt Hawgs to supplement the on-road tires that came with his electric MT and he never even uses the on-roads anymore, the Hawgs are better in all conditions.

[doesgo]

Where do you buy your parts from? [/B]
I buy most of mine from my local hobby store, and the rest I buy from Tower Hobbies (www.towerhobbies.com). I'd buy everything from Tower, but it's fun to browse the hobby store sometimes, and I don't like to wait the 2-3 days to get my stuff from Tower.

[doesgo]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
ok ok,

so, how many spare parts should i buy when i get this truck?

and which ones?

I'm with Mossdog mostly, get the A-arm tree and the shock tower tree. That way you'll have enough parts to replace two a-arms, both shock towers, the a-arm mount things, and the body posts as well. Not that all that stuff is going to break, but those parts trees come with a lot of stuff.

I've never popped a stock plastic non-turnbuckle, and actually one was strong enough to pull a ball stud out of the rear shock tower in a bad accident. Keep titanium turnbuckles and RPM ball caps in mind, but I wouldn't get them yet.

I've also never lost a dogbone, but that kind of goes hand-in-hand with popping the turnbuckles (if you pop those links, the dogbones will probably fall out - sometimes they're tough to find).

[doesgo]

I've been driving my recently-aquired Losi XXX-NT (nitro stadium truck) quite a bit for the past week, including some yesterday. After I broke it yesterday (when jumping over a split-rail fence, don't miss the ramp and hit the fence - bent axle stub), I got out the NMT.

WOW! What a difference! The Losi with a Wasp .12 engine is very quick off the line and in top speed and is a blast to drive, but it can't turn to save its life if I'm on the throttle at all. So I'm out warming up the NMT and I can't believe how nice it turns! It's glued to the road compared to the Losi. And after a couple blasts up and down the road I hit the brakes, right? It stops VERY quickly and straight! Weird, eh? ;) The Losi, with only rear brakes, spins around every time and doesn't stop too quickly. Sure, I could lighten up on the brakes a little and it'd stop straighter, but then it wouldn't stop very quickly. The NMT stops great! I can't wait to get my fiber disc in there and really put the clamps on!

And when jumping, it's MUCH easier to correct the pitch of the truck with 4WD rather than 2WD. I know that's obvious, but I had forgotten.

I'm a little disappointed with the soft bottom end performance of the Fantom engine, but I'll have to play with the clutch, flywheel, and maybe gear it down a little to get up and going faster. The midrange and top end performance is great!

Ahhhh, the NMT just feels good! And to think I was debating between a T-Maxx, RC10GT, Rustler, and NMT when I bought this thing. I definitely made the right choice!

T-Maxx - big power, very capable, cheaply made, expensive to fix, and VERY expensive to make reliable
RC10GT/XXX-NT - decent price, tough, can have good power, fun, very limited traction, very limited steering
Rustler - cheap, very fast, cheaply made, limited traction and steering
NMT - mid-price, relatively well-made, fast (with aftermarket engine), great traction, great steering, and a BLAST to drive!

Jeez, I'm wordy today.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

you guys are missing the boat on a motor check crc racing for STS engines i race at that track and there motors crank with a fantom raw steel pipe.the nmt is a tough truck but does brake a lot of front stuff.i race with t-maxs thats the class they put you in because its 4-wheel drive and i can smoke them at that track.check there web site for motors real cheap.

[Mossdog]

Very well put doesgo! And yes I agree the NMT is better than the T-Maxx. 3 of my Pals have maxx's and they are always breaking down/breaking in crashes. One of em has a Fantom 15 in his and has tons of starting problems, but it does have lots of top end, and little low end grunt in the Maxx when he does get it running. We have sealed it all up for airleaks, and checked everything out, but its still a fussy engine.

There is a new "HPI" forum opened up and some of the regulars from the old forum are starting to show up, check it out.

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk

[doesgo]

Well, the price was right on the Fantom, I needed an engine, the FE was toast, and I had heard good things. Why is it that I hear about the problems AFTER I buy? :rolleyes: Oh well. So far I do like it, and I haven't had any starting problems when I do everything right, but I've only run about 10 tanks through it. I've been using a starter box, too, which makes life easier.

I've heard the Fantom rotary carbs suck (no pun intended). I've got an OS CV-RX that I can't use (cut crank), maybe I'll see if that carb will work on the Fantom if I have problems.

[dannyboy75555]

i cant belive traxxes is putin the 2.5 in rustler damn thats a power over kill if i had a job i would buy it just to wellie and go fast but im not made of money so ill just hop up my nmt with .21 so then ill be faster than rustler on a on road or off road tack

ps tmaxx cheply made i have to disagree my stepdad has one and the only thing we broken is a arm (side swiped small curb)
chassie (ran into parked car in second gear) the old maxx was under powered new one no flaws except were chassie connects to bulk heads chassie is weak there still

[dannyboy75555]

this is a replacment for hpi forms it is a good fourm sitehttp://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/index.php

[dannyboy75555]

the scummecher sadium truck must be fast eh with .21 in it lol it has steel chasie

[doesgo]

Originally posted by dannyboy75555
i cant belive traxxes is putin the 2.5 in rustler damn thats a power over kill if i had a job i would buy it just to wellie and go fast but im not made of money so ill just hop up my nmt with .21 so then ill be faster than rustler on a on road or off road tack

ps tmaxx cheply made i have to disagree my stepdad has one and the only thing we broken is a arm (side swiped small curb)
chassie (ran into parked car in second gear) the old maxx was under powered new one no flaws except were chassie connects to bulk heads chassie is weak there still
Wheelies in a stadium truck are lots of fun, but it does get old after a while. Having the power available to pull them is cool most of the time as well, but with 2WD it can be tough to control sometimes. I'm not knocking power, believe me! But sometimes you just want to GO, and can't.

As for the T-Maxx, I guess everyone's experience is different and it depends on how you use it. My bro-in-law has put about $400 into his over and above the initial purchase price to make it reliable. Well, we think it's reliable, last time he was out it broke in about 10 minutes. He's broken spur gears, broke his front bulkhead, and blew most of the caps off his shocks, among other things. Sure, the caps can go back on the shocks, but it's only a matter of time before they go again. Now he's got the Big Bore shocks, titanium this, aluminum that, etc. I've got a stock Losi XXX-NT that's been through FAR worse for far longer in the past couple bashing sessions than his Maxx and the Losi bent two front axle stubs. $6.

Again, I'm not here to argue with the toughness of this or that, I'm just sharing my experiences. My NMT hasn't been bulletproof either, but merely landing on all four wheels after a decent jump hasn't cost me $100 for special shocks and springs. :D

R/C rocks, any way you look at it.

[stealthpenguin]

So, should I buy those A-arm trees, the ballcaps (dont know what those are either = P), and the tires right when I buy the car? or should I wait?

Also, I have also been corresponding with hobbypeople.com and recieved this amusing e-mail regarding the Nitro MT.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
no i would not recmond the MT i would recmond the RC-10GT rtr
that is a good truck
thanks

From: "stealthpenguin"
Date:_ Fri, 15 Nov 2002 15:35:19 -0800

>hey-
>
>sorry for the miscommunication. But that's good! I don't care about speed
>that much, and handling is not very important, because this car is going to
>just be for fun. So, would you recommend the HPI RS4 MT?
>
>The thing I'm most concerned about is matainance, and if this requires a lot
>of it.
>
>thanks,
>
>-stealthpenguin
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

[M16-A2]

Well the NMT has more mantainence than the RC10, but then again the NMT is 4WD(more moving parts).

As for buying parts right from the start, I don't think you should. It's always best to buy a truck and then decide on what you want to upgrade first. Aluminum A-arms are not a wise upgrade, as they still bend in a head on crash and cost $25 to replace instead of the $5 stock arms.

Your best bet would be to get the truck first, run it for a gallon or so, and then decide on what you want! Whatever truck you end up getting it'll be a load of fun!

[doesgo]

Wow, they really broke down the pros and cons for you, didn't they? Sheesh.

The GT is a good, reliable, tough truck from what I understand. I'll know firsthand in a couple days. :)

The GT is more simple and possibly easier to work on. Also cheaper to buy, initially. Probably comes with a better engine out of the box, too. If you want 2WD, get the GT. If you want 4WD, get the HPI NMT.

If you get the NMT, I'd get an a-arm tree and a shock tower tree while you're at the store. Only another $10 or so, then you'll have the parts on hand. Breaking something cheap and easy to replace but being out of luck because the hobby store isn't open stinks!

[doesgo]

I've got a Fantom FR15 in my NMT and it's weak on the bottom end. The rest of the drivetrain is stock, although my friend gave me a lightweight flywheel and I just bought the HPI racing clutch.

The flywheel seems obvious for quick revving. The top end speed is fine as is, and I'd sacrifice a little for more acceleration off the line, so would an 11-tooth clutchbell help that, rather than the stock 12-tooth? This also seems obvious and it typically works in 1:1 cars, but I want to make sure I'm not missing something obvious.

The racing clutch has the two semi-circle shoes with a wraparound spring, rather than the two quarter-circle shoes with those clip springs like the stock design. Will the standard setup of the racing clutch help me out or should I go ahead and use the 2nd or 3rd hole right off the bat?

Thanks in advance.

[gometro333]

What doesgo said just reminded me of something. What are the holes in the racing clutch for anyway? I have the Racer kit so I assumed it was just kinda there when I built it.

-Matt

[doesgo]

Originally posted by gometro333
What doesgo said just reminded me of something. What are the holes in the racing clutch for anyway? I have the Racer kit so I assumed it was just kinda there when I built it.

-Matt
The clutch shoes have three mounting holes for three different
adjustments.
-First set-up is mounted in the first hole in the clutch bell,
this allows the clutch to engage at low RPM's for smooth
acceleration.
-Second set-up is mounted in the second hole in the clutch bell,
then the excess clutch bell is removed (the first mounting hole is
cut off), this allows the clutch to engage at higher RPM's for more
bottom end.
-Third set-up is mounted in the third hole in the clutch bell,
then the excess clutch bell is removed (the second mounting hole is
cut off), this allows the clutch to engage at higher RPM's for even
more bottom end, and is good for high bite tracks.


Wow, I'm glad you asked. I guess I just answered my own question! I need more bottom end, "bite" is rarely a problem with a 4WD NMT, so I'll definitely start at least at the middle hole and probably end up at the third hole.

[gometro333]

Well good, kill 2 birds with one stone, answer my question and yours, thanks a bundle.

-Matt

[stealthpenguin]

now that I'm sure that the NMT is the truck that I'm looking for... all I have to do is convince my parents to get it for me... = P. I'm thinking combination birthday & x-mas present... but I'll try to get it as soon as possible! = D

I found the NMT RTR online for only $300, but I will still call around to some hobby shops in san francisco. If the hobby shop can get it within $20-30 of the internet price, i will definitely buy it from there because then i can skip out on shipping cost and while im there i can buy some spare parts and get some advice. Also, HPI recommends that after every 2 gallons (100 hours of running time) that you have the engine looked at by a professional, so I can just take it back there since I already know the guy.

Eventually, aside from some upgrades (mossdogg recommended air filter, fuel filter, replacement turnbuckles (whatever those are)), I might get some $bling$bling$ stuff like custom body and wheels.

Also, right now im trying to convince my friend to get one too so we can race them = P. He is looking at the HPI Savage.

[gometro333]

Stealth,

Have you ever had an R/C car before because some of the stuff that we tell you and don't know what they we're talking about are sort of elementary stuff in terms of RC cars. I'm not trying to discourage you from getting the NMT (great truck, I'm lovin' it) but if you haven't had an RC car before you may want to go to your LHS and see if you can use someone's NMT (if anyone there has one) before you spend $300.

Just my 2 cents.

-Matt

[stealthpenguin]

Yes, this will be my first R/C.

Would you discourage me from buying the NMT because of my inexperience w/ R/C?

I have researched/bought many a product through forums and word of mouth.

So, as I said. If I can, I will buy the car from a LHS so that if I am displeased with it, I can probably return it (btw. what is the warranty on the NMT RTR?)

Plus, if I did know anyone with a NMT, I would definitely try theirs first. But, R/C cars are not that big of a trend/fad in my town.

[Racegas]

Does anyone here have a converted NMT?

I will be slipping in a bigbore this winter, and was wondering what engine and conversion to use.

Any help would be great.
Thanks!

[doesgo]

I've got an O.S. CV-RX .15 engine that's had its crank cut to work in a stadium truck (I believe). Is there any way to make that work in my NMT? Looking at that engine compared to my FE, it seems as though the distance from the edge of the engine block to the flywheel is rather significant in my NMT and it's not very far at all in a stadium truck.

Does anyone know if someone makes an adapter or fitting or something to bring the crank back to its "full glory"? :D

[PCC]

My brother bought an NMT RTR two years ago. He got used to the speed of the stock 15FE and soon wanted more. He reasoned that a OS 21RG could be made to fit. After reading on the Internet that people have done just that (install a .21 engine in a NMT) he decided to do it. He bought the engine, OFNA engine mounts and SG shaft flywheel/clutch kits (sorry, forgot all the part numbers). He also bought a CVEC .21 header and a cheap .21 pipe. When he was tuning the engine for power, after an extensive 10 tank break-in procedure, the breakages started. First the dogbones started to twist badly, then he upgraded to MIP CVD's. Then the diffs stripped, so he rebuilt both diffs with the expensive HD ones. Then the diff bevel gears (AKA spider gears) stripped, so he found a way to build them that would last longer. Then the diff outdrives would snap, so he replaced them with the "HD" ones. Then the CVD bones would snap, so he replaced them (only thing he could do). Then he decided to get the slipper clutch to soften the blow from the .21 engine. The slipper clutch would get so hot that the spur gear would melt right off! That was with the adjusting nut just about locked down! Then he converted back to the standard fixed 52T spur gear and the CVD's and the outdrives would start snapping like twigs.

On his twentieth tank after the breakages started, he finally got to run one full tank (at 75cc, it went pretty fast with a thirsty .21 sucking at the other end of the straw!) without breaking anything! That was an exception to the rule. He finally got fed up with it after we went out to drive our trucks (my NMT Racer running a 15CV-X Hyper at the time) and he broke a CVD not five minutes after we got started. He got to watch me drive my truck for another three tanks until I felt guilty and we packed up and headed home. He repaired his CVD while I cleaned my NMT and he drove it on my lawn for a shake-down and snapped an outdrive not two minutes into it. That NMT now has a 12CV-X Hyper in it with a heavy duty drivetrain.

[PCC]

Originally posted by doesgo
Does anyone know if someone makes an adapter or fitting or something to bring the crank back to its "full glory"? :D

Replace the crank with a new one.

[doesgo]

Originally posted by doesgo
I've got an O.S. CV-RX .15 engine that's had its crank cut to work in a stadium truck (I believe). Is there any way to make that work in my NMT? Looking at that engine compared to my FE, it seems as though the distance from the edge of the engine block to the flywheel is rather significant in my NMT and it's not very far at all in a stadium truck.
Did I just inadvertently basically define the difference between a "standard" crank and an "SG" crank? If so, to rephrase my question, is there a way to make a standard crank work in an application that requires an SG crank?

I've got a Fantom in my NMT and I like it, but I'd also like to try the Wasp .12, OS CV-R .12, and OS CV-RX .15 that I have on hand in it as well to see what I like best.

[doesgo]

Originally posted by PCC
Replace the crank with a new one.
Thanks PCC. Not what I was hoping to hear, but it might be worth it.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

THE DUDE WHOS WANTS NMT SAID AFTER TWO GALLONS OF FUEL BRING IT BACK TO YOUR LHS TO INSPECT THE MOTOR WITH A 15FE,YOU WILL NEVER MAKE IT TO ONE FULL GALLON RUNS WAY TO HOT.I'D GET MT RACER WITH THE OS CV-RX HAS NO PROBLEMS AND RUNS ALL DAY LONG.AS FAR AS BACK-UP PARTS YOU BETTER GET FRONT ARMS,OUTDRIVES,DOGGY BONES BECAUSE THE CV SHAFTS SUCK WHEN THAY COME APART LESS MAINTANAINCE WITH DOGGYS.PAINT THE DOG BONES BRIGHT COLOR SO WHEN THAY DO COME OUT YOU CAN FIND THEM AND SLIP THEM IN WRIGHT AWAY.ALSO FRONT C HUBS IS ALSO NICE TO HAVE ON HAND,PUT REBOUND STAPS ON THE SHOCKS BECAUSE THEY COME APART ON JUMPS NOT FROM LANDING FROM LAUNCHING TOOK ME A WHILE TO FIGURE THAT OUT WHILE RACING, COULDN'T FINISH TWO LAPS AND SHOCKS WOULD BLOW APART ALL THE TIME.REBOUND STRAPS ARE MADE WITH TIE STAPS AROUND TOP SHOCK MNT. AND LOWER CONTORL ARM DONE NO MORE PROBLEMS.AS FARE AS MAINTENACE AFTER EVERY THURSDAY NIGHT RACE AND SOME BASHING ON THE WEEKENDS I TAKE APART THE FRONT AND REAR DIFFS CLEAN AND REPACK THEM WITH VASELINE BEEN WORKING GOOD FOR ME.IF THIS IS YOUR FIRST RC I WOULD SAY BUY A LOSI XXXNT NEVER BRAKES BUT NOT AS MUCH FUN AS THE NMT,THE MT NEEDS PATIENCE BUT I LOVE DRIVING THAT TRUCK THE BEST............

[M16-A2]

Remove the caps please, it's a little hard on the eyes...

[gometro333]

I got the aluminum steering from Powerline and I put it in. When I went to put the front center dogbone in I foudn that it rubs on the new steering thing. I could have done it wrong but has anyone else come across this problem?

-Matt

[doesgo]

What's the advantage of that Powerline aluminum steering deal? Smoother? It's got bearings, right? So it's more rigid and smoother for better and quicker steering response?

[M16-A2]

The Powerline assembly does rub a little, but if you use it for a tank or two the doggie will notch grooves into the steering arm and move freely.(if you don't mind running with a little rubbing for a tank or two)

As for the advantages, the aluminum steering takes away almost all the play in the steering system. It really helps for straight line accuracy, and can hold a truer turn in the corners. One disadvantage is that you'll probably want a servo with more torque when you go to aluminum steering(if you haven't upgraded your servos already).

Well it's snowing here again, I have to go plow the driveway:(
Oh and when I get back I'll be putting a rollcage on ebay:)
(shameless plug for my own benefit, I'm so ashamed);)

[stealthpenguin]

So, can I get an answer from Mossdogg or M16 about whether or not it would be okay to get the NMT if this will be my first R/C. But, I really want to jump into this hobby so I can start learning about all the parts and stuff.

[M16-A2]

You'll be fine as long as you read every instruction manual and make sure you know how everything works before you take it out. If you don't read the manuals you'll be coming on here asking all kinds of dumb questions(which I won't answer, because you should of read the manual).

In all honesty though, you'll be fine! Just take your time and ease into everything. It would help if you had a guy at your LHS to give you pointers, but if not come here for help.

[gometro333]

When said the steering is rubbing, I meant A LOT!!! Its to the point that if the doggie moves, the wheels will turn. IT'S REALLY BAD!!! And no the steering does not come with bearings.

[M16-A2]

I would say then that you didn't install it correctly. It's a little tricky since they don't include directions, but I'd take it apart and reassemble it. If I have time I'll take mine apart and show you how it goes, but I doubt I have the time today.

[stealthpenguin]

hey M16, thanks for the reassurance. I will make sure to read all the manuals (I'm **** like that) and I'm sorry for asking all the stupid questions, but I'm just excited to start learning about R/C!

Do you buy your parts online? or from a LHS?
How much did you pay for your NMT? I found a place online that is selling it for $300. Also, I found startup kits (fuel, plug wrenches, plugs, glue, etc) for about $20-30.

[brassmonkey]

sorry about the inconcistency of my posts, haven't had too much time lately.

mossdog-
I'll be sure to flip you an order when I get some money. I dunno, the nmt just flat out seems scetchy and unstable, at high speeds the car still drifts to one side. I don't run mashers, but I do have a high torque steering servo.
:mad: :mad: :mad: I seriously don't know what to do about this, there seems to be no electrical problems. My only guess is that the o-rings are putting out differnet amounts of friction on differnent sides of the car. Have you guys experenced this?

[brassmonkey]

oh yeah I mostly buy from my lhs unless it's a hop up or epxpensive part. I bought my nmt for $339 rtr + painted body. $300 for a kit? Sounds like a rip, kits are $279 usually. $20-30 sounds good, I bought my start up set for $40 (trinity start up set)

[stealthpenguin]

uh, its not a kit, its RTR

and im having a hard time finding a startup kit for under 30 bucks

and what kind of fuel do you guys like to use for just messing around?

[Mossdog]

Hehe I live in Canada and our prices are silly! I paid $675 for my NMT RTR, since then I have put over $1000 in it in hop-ups/tires/bodys but most of them were just because I wanted the upgrade not because I needed it. And its lots of fun! I love my NMT!


And ya brassmonkey thats cool! I will be selling them for awhile anyways, besides I am currently sorting out some problems with PAYPAL, so my shipments are currently on hold.

[stealthpenguin]

wow, thats a lot! but what kind of fuel would you recommend to use?

[M16-A2]

I was making my daily spur gears today, when all of a sudden my Dremel snapped (electrical snap!) and smoke came pouring out of the induction!

The snap has left my arm in a bit of a weakened state (it's a really wierd feeling). However it did give me an excuse to go buy the Multipro Variable Speed Dremel, as my old one was just a 2-speed.

Anyway...
I like to run ODonnell's 20% fuel, it offers excellent cooling and delivers power too! I used to run Blue Thunder but could never keep a good temp with that fuel, so I switched to OD and never looked back.

Oh, the first roll cage went on ebay today! Starts at $.25 if anyone is interested!

Item # 1790721474
www.gimpysracing.cjb.net

[gometro333]

Could you tell us the reserve?

-Matt

[M16-A2]

There is none, it's starts at $.25 and goes from there!

[CWB]

hey where did you get those rims on your site m16?

[M16-A2]

I bought them off ebay, but the company that makes them is www.radtechracing.com

[brassmonkey]

RRRRRRR!:mad: :mad: :mad:
Guess what guys? I messed up the treads on my cooling head! I was screwing the glow plug in and it didn't feel right, but I torqued it down anyway. Now the treads are messed up and on top of that, my diffs are acting up! Sheesh! BTW M16-a2 did you feel any wierd diff action when you first packed the diffs with oil?

[M16-A2]

The diffs will be a little harder to turn, but they shouldn't feel or behave wierd in any way. You'll notice if turning them by hand it'll be a little harder, but your engine won't really care it'll turn the diffs like nothing.

[Mossdog]

M-16, consider trading possibly a couple sets of bumpers for Roll-cage? I know trading is the nets #1 no no but I thought I might ask anyways!

[stealthpenguin]

hey-

I finally got everything straightened out...

I'm getting the Nitro MT RTR from "R/C Toys and Hobbies"
( http://shop.store.yahoo.com/shoffpauir-store/hpinitrusrs2.html )

and

Dogbones, A-arms, Shock tower mounts, and the Duratraxx nitro starter set w/fuel from "Tower Hobbies"
( http://www.towerhobbies.com )

Nitro MT RTR + shipping + parts/starter set +shipping
$309 + $10 + $50 + $7 = $376

My parents have approved the purchase (but I can't get it till' x-mas break (12/20)).

And, I found a local hobby shop that would be glad to take a look at my NMT after 2 gal. of fuel!

Thanx a lot Mossdog & Doesgo & M16!

P.S.: Once I get it (1 month), I'll make sure to stay on this forum (or the HPI one once they get it up) so I can get some more tips!

[KOLOR KRAFT]

good luck penguin after one month of thrashing i would like to here how its going.i thought this forum is about racing not bench racers do you guys race them trucks or just build parts to sell.id like to know about spring rates you guys run and what type of track.right know i am trying twin associated shocks in the back and pair in the front don,t have right spring rates though it isn't handling right.i swithed shocks to associated because i had them laying around got tired of refilling hpi shocks after every main.sept. i must have went through 30 dollars of oil them hpi shocks really do suck.have you guys checked out STS engines yet at CRC RACING the pull start engines should be in soon.

[doesgo]

As it says on the list, this forum is about the HPI Nitro MT and MT Racer. It's not just about racing or bashing or roll cages or bumpers, it's anything relating to the NMT and MT Racer.

Thanks for relaying your experience with the HPI shocks, I'll be sure NOT to replace them or refill them when they go, I'll move right over to something better.

What Asociated shocks did you get? Are they stock RC10T3 shocks or something? I've got an old RC10T and I could "borrow" the shocks off that one...

[M16-A2]

Just go straight for Kyosho Twin caps, they are an extremely durable shock and have withstood almost a year of my consistent bashing!

[KOLOR KRAFT]

you are right the twin caps are one of the best, for the ultamate shock it would have to be losi shocks never brake or bend.but did you ever price them can't get them as a assy. have to buy all the pieces i keep trying to find a deal on e-bay as a assy.as far as the associated shocks go yes mine came from and origanaly rc-10 from the early eightys and i still got that truck but its all in pieces now i always borrow parts from that to fix my mt.i do think they are a little short in the back but the mt squats a little any ways ,better traction that way.

[Mossdog]

Way to go Stealthpenguin, you will really enjoy your NMT! I sure do! And ya there is more here than just pimping customized parts! I have the powerline shocks with the yellow springs. They are very stiff although not very reliable (the caps can only be turned down so far or the bladders pop in, and I keep blowing a E-Clip off the shock piston on one of my front shocks-guess 15 foot jumps will do that sometimes! :) , and I like em for extreme jumping/street running. I use my HPI blue springs for when I am off road running and vary my shock oil from 35 WT to 50WT depending on what I am doing with my NMT that day. I have not yet raced my NMT officially but 5 of my pals have Nitro trucks and my NMT kicks their butts when we do set up a homemade track!

And always remember.....

[M16-A2]

I race my NMT at a local track(next season I will have the local track :)) and I have not lost as of yet. Given that the competition here is mostly 12-14 year olds, and most can't afford many hop-ups, so winning all the time is a pretty easy thing.

We group all Nitro Trucks into one category, so we get about 10-15 trucks each week. Whether its a Tmaxx, NMT, or 10GT it all races in the Nitro Truck category.(there aren't many RC'ers here)

[stealthpenguin]

is there special oil that i need for the shocks and other miscellaneous parts?

[M16-A2]

Shock oil is included in the kit, as well as oil for your air filter.

You could buy diff oil, but it's not at all necessary.

Then there is after-run oil which should be used in your engine if the engine will be sitting for more than a couple of days.

[gometro333]

Well at least you have some. I have yet to find people in my area who RC. And to find a track to race. If anyone here lives in MD, tell me, maybe you know of a track.

On the steering thing...

The steering comes with little aluminum cylinders that go on the posts. Well the first time I assembled the steering I had it on the bottom, but now I have it on top. I don't know which way it's "supposed" to be but this way works for me.

I'm having a problem with my shocks. Every time I fill them up, then go out and run it, I come inside to find that the oil has oozed (ha ha, oozed) out. I always make sure everything is tight but it still happens. You think I need to get new shocks?

And I have a dilema...

I can't decide whether to get an HPI Micro RS4 or just get parts for the NMT for x-mas. What do you think?

-Matt

[M16-A2]

You at least need new o-rings, you may need new shocks. Start with the cheaper o-rings though and see if that fixes it!

[brassmonkey]

I know how you feel. Micros are pretty cool and fun to drive , but so is a pimped out nmt! I would go for hop-ups for the nmt. As for your shock problem, are you changing the o rings every rebuild (Prolly sounds like a stupid question to you, but hey, I'm also the kind of guy who does a shock rebuild every month and half and diff rebuild every three months)?

[brassmonkey]

Oh yeah, what kind of o rings do you guys use? I really haven't noticed which are good since I usually just buy the cheapest ones at the LHS. :mad: :mad: :mad: I still need to find my diff problem! Think it could be the o rings?

[RAULMT]

Hey guys, finally we are getting a RC TV Show, check it out, it starts on December 30, 2002, one episode per week on The Outdoor Channel.


http://www.insiderc.com

[M16-A2]

I'm going on a little rant now...

After that dremel shorted and shocked me yesterday I didn't think too much of it, there wasn't much pain and I seemed to be able to move my arm and fingers just fine.

...Well today my arm is turning this nice shade of blue! My fingers have some limited motion to them, and if I do move them far it hurts all the way up my arm:(

Needless to say I'm typing with one arm tonight, and I think a trip to the doctor is in order for tomorrow...

OK that's my rant for the day, just had to get it off my chest!

Umm how bout a funny fish slap to lighten things up. For those of you who don't know, the fish slap is my way of telling someone they just asked a very noobish question, and was common among the HPI Forums. No one can use the fish but me, you have to get your own noob slapping device!
http://www.plauder-smilies.de/splat.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.de/splat.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.de/splat.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.de/splat.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.de/splat.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.de/splat.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.de/splat.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.de/splat.gif

[gometro333]

what was the question?

[M16-A2]

No question from me, just blowing off steam...

[gometro333]

No, you said someone asked you a very noobish question, thats why you were doing the fish slap. So what was the very noobish question you were asked?

[M16-A2]

I didn't say someone asked me a noobish question.

I was explaining the meaning of the fish slap. I don't think I've used it on these boards before so I was just explaining the meaning behind the fish slap.

Oh and if you haven't seen the fish slap movie!
http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/Movies/fishslap.mov

[KOLOR KRAFT]

i have rs4 micro it is awsome i put a ratzas pro chasis on it with the modified motor from hpi car is very fast,handles really good.took to indoor carpet track and of course i am the only one with a hpi car everybody else runs 1/12th scale carpet knifes or bloody knifes from crc and that micro was just as fast as there stock 4 cell knifes.but my car is smaller so i can squeeze thru the corners better.i could see they didn't want me racing that car with them. being i no the owner he wants me to get one of his cars.so next week it is going on e-bay and the money will go into my mugen buggy.micro is very fun car.

[Clod_Killer]

Well here's the start of my winter project. Goal is to make a fast, dependable racer out of it for next season outdoors. (And a little indoors this winter) I will update this post as I do more to the truck.

Upgrades:
-Traxxas Rod Ends (No more ball cups popping off)
-HPI titanium tierods
-Graphite arms
-Slipper clutch
-Trick Parts stainless screws
-Built in charge jack for the rx pack
-OFNA aluminum servo horns (Steering isn't installed in the picture)
-Cutting Edge Concepts braided fuel lines
-HPI performance air cleaner
-HD ring and pinion gears

Powerplant:
-HB .18 right now, haven't decided on final power plant for the project.
-O.S. 10A slide carb

Electronics:
-Futaba 3PJ FM radio
-Hitec 5645 Digital servo for steering
-JR Z250 throttle servo, soon to be a Hitec 525MG
-1100mah hump pack

http://www.action-rc.com/nmt1.jpg


Trick Parts (http://www.trick-parts.com)

[stealthpenguin]

Hey, I was wondering. I read that these cars will run about 5-10 min. on a full tank. Is it possible to upgrade the fuel tank so it could run like twice as long?

[M16-A2]

10-15 minutes is a better estimate as to how long it'll run. If you only get 5 minutes you have problems in your fuel delivery, exhaust, or engine.

There is an pretty easy way to mount a second gas tank to your truck. You can easily fashion some L-mounts to put a tank on the rear shock tower!

[Clod_Killer]

It only takes a quick second to top it off. You don't even have to shut it off to refill. Flip, pour, and go!

[gometro333]

KOLOR KART,

When you put it up, tell me the item number, I wanna bid.

By the way, do you mind putting spaces inbetween your sentences, it's kind hard to read.

-Matt

[KOLOR KRAFT]

sorry about the spaces geo personally i can't stand computers or typing and i definatly can't spell either. the car will be on e-bay tomorrow morning. awsome paint job to.

[stealthpenguin]

The startup kit im getting comes with 1 quart of fuel, how long will that last me?

[doesgo]

Well, with no waste, your tank is 75cc, a quart is 946cc, so that's 12-13 tanks. You'll go through about six during the break-in, so it won't last too long.

But "they" say to only buy enough to last a month or so (it absorbs water), so I'd probably buy two quarts and make sure you use up the first one before opening the second one.

[gometro333]

For the first part of the break-in process my engine sucked up fuel. But now I can get pretty good run times with it. I used about a gallon in a week when I got my NMT. But thats just me.

-Matt

[doesgo]

WOW!!!! Did you ever sleep? I've finally gone through a gallon now and it took me two months! Then again, I was working a lot, and playing with a XXX-NT and RC10GT....

[gometro333]

Well I got it during spring break two years ago so I had plenty of free time. I pretty much broke-in the engine in a day. But you shoulda seen me, I was hypnotized. But I was in awe when I saw how much power and speed it had compared to my other electic cars. After about a half gallon I was just having drag races with myself up and down the street. Then I took it off-road and into my woods. I launched off so many rocks and hit so many trees but I didn't once break anything. I was in shock at the strength of it. I could do anything to it and it wouldn't break. So I thought that all nitro cars would be like this. Then after running my friends T-Maxx and seeing him run it, I realized that it was just the NMT that could take any abuse that I through at it. In one day my friend did over a $100 in damage to his T-Maxx just doing the exact same thing as me. Infact we were playing follow the leader (a great game to practice making sudden direction changes, like in a pile up on the track) and he couldn't keep up to me. Sure I have a 15ss but he had his 2-speed going and still couldn't catch me. But the real test came when we went to the house next door that was getting renovated. The workers had a HUGE pile of dirt in the back, and they had no problem with us using it (plus I think they wanted something to do). Well in the climb I crushed the T-Maxx. Infact it was so steep that the Maxx actually flipped over backwards. But my NMT, with a little zig zagging, got on top. But to this day my friends insists that the T-Maxx in the best car ever. But I keep on telling him it's the NMT.

Just thought I would share the story of the early moments of my NMT.

-Matt

P.S. Man I can talk today!!;)

[stealthpenguin]

what a great testimonial...

as for me, im planning on getting 2 quarts of duratraxx's red-alert 20% fuel. Unfortunately, they dont sell 1 gallon containers, only 4 gal. and 1 quart.

[Lanc3r]

Getting a lot of fuel at once isn't really that great...the fuel will soak up water, and become less explosive i.e. less effective. If you are planning to get a lot of fuel at once, maybe on sale or something, get the fuel in the metal canisters. They don't allow a lot of water through, unlike the plastic soft cans. oh, and get a heavy-duty steering servo. They help a lot when it comes to tracking straight, and cornering, and it is indespensable in racing. You dont need to get it right away, but it should be a part of your hop-up plan.

lanc3r

[M16-A2]

When you buy fuel just make sure to store it in a dry area, and keep the seal on tight. Yes nitro fuel is hydroscopic, but it won't automatically suck up all the water in the air.

I buy about 2 gallons of fuel a month for my RC, and just store it in the closet in my room. Of course I only open one quart at a time.

In the past I have stored nitro for a year with absolutely no problems, it all depends in how and where you store it.

[M16-A2]

Has anyone tried running their slipper clutch without the yellow slipper pad? My X12 burnt up that pad today, and it's only 11 so I still have a lot of daylight to run! If you have run without the pad let me know if it works or not.

*EDIT*
I can't believe this but I actually have 2 extra slipper pads laying in my box... Hmm don't remember buying those, but I won't complain!

[PCC]

StealthPenguin, ever thought about buying used (hint)?

[stealthpenguin]

hey, my dad is getting all nervous about bringing nitro-methane into our house. He keeps on saying how its the same fuel used in top-fuel dragsters and that its really flamable (duh).

Is there anything I could say to put my dad's mind at ease?

Also, where would be a good place to store it? I was thinking about putting it in a plastic container (like a Roughneck) underneath the awning on our back deck.

PCC, about getting one used. My mom is really uptight about buying used stuff (although I do it all the time), but I think I rather just get it from Towerhobbies to be safe and so I can return it if anything very serious is defective.

[brassmonkey]

Flammable huh? I had trouble putting some on fire the other day, couldn't even keep a fire going.:rolleyes: Storing fuel in the garage in the contianer it came in is fine, don't know how cold it gets in your garage, but they do make fuel insulators.

[mtracer]

I need some help with a Rush stock carb
My sons rush took a few flips at the local track and now it will not
idle for more than 2 seconds......but it runs wide open,

I noticed the carbs needle inside was really short.....
I need a picture of a open carb to see the needle.
Here is a pic of an OS carb that way you can see what Im talking about..

Thanks


http://web.tampabay.rr.com/mtracer/index.htm

[gaus]

I have been running Red Alert 20 in my Ofna Hyper 21 engine and it works really well. I am purchasing a OS MG 2034 .15 (is that right?) for my NMT. Any comments? I am pretty excited because the engine will be here this week and I have a 4-day weekend. I want to make sure the installation goes good, break-in is no problem but I have never installed a nitro engine in a new car. Also, the NMT seems a little tight (the diffs and suspension) is this normal? I assembled it late into the night and I think maybe it is too tight...

gaus

[M16-A2]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
Is there anything I could say to put my dad's mind at ease?


The nitro used in RC fuel doesn't actually explode even when ignited. If you've ever had a glow plug off your engine and connected it to an ignitor, then put a little nitro on it you'll notice there is no explosion, it just burns up and sizzles.
I've stored nitro in my house for years now, and nothings been blown up or burnt... YET! (just kidding)

[gometro333]

Well you could just tell him that if it ever did catch on fire he wouldn't see it because it burns with an invisible flame. I had a nasty experience with the whole invisible flame thing. It had to to with a low flying bird and spilling nitro, I don't want to get into it.

BUT TO BE SERIOUS...

It doesn't burn any hotter than wood does so if you had a fire in your house you would be screwed anyway so you shouldn't fret about it.

-Matt

[stman]

who makes better mts duratrax or kyosho
:confused:

[doesgo]

I'm throwing together some Christmas gift ideas and naturally parts for my NMT are at the top of the list. I'm a basher - driveway, street, yard, BMX track, whatever.

I already own HPI SS hinge pins, HPI fiber brake disk, lightweight flywheel, Fantom FR15 engine, and HPI racing clutch.

Is the Powerline 4mm chassis a worthwhile upgrade at $34 or is it overkill? The 2.5mm HPI chassis is about the same price. How about the HPI graphite upper deck at $35? I've got titanium turnbuckles on the list, as well as a new body, slipper clutch, gear diff spring set, and diff oil.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks.

[brassmonkey]

Originally posted by gometro333
it burns with an invisible flame.

-Matt


*** thats not true... is it?

[doesgo]

Originally posted by M16-A2
If you look for aftermarket shocks, you need to seriously consider the Kyosho Twin Caps! They're aluminum shocks that have some serious durability.(I've never had a problem, even after crashing 40 foot jumps)

Also the twin caps are cheap, you can get all 4 for under $50!!
I'm thinking about the Twin Caps, but I see three listed at Tower Hobbies, with an S, M, or L listed after each part number, and vastly different pricing ($22/pair to $40/pair). Can you tell me which to get for my NMT?

Thanks.

[M16-A2]

Medium for the front, long for the rear!

Yes nitro does burn invisible, but most companies put in a coloring agent and an artificial odor so you can both smell it and see it!

[doesgo]

Thanks!

[gometro333]

Yeah it's kinda scary. Next time you refeul your car with the engine on, think twice.

I HATE MY ENGINE!! IT'S BEING A LITTLE explitive deleted!!!!!!!!!!! IT JUST WON'T START!!!! HELP!!!!!!!!!!

-Matt

P.S. I have stress management issues.;)

[M16-A2]

Hmm...
I refuel my car with the engine on all the time, no probs yet.
My brother and I had a little contest today and I'm sorry to say he won:(

We found this sweet jump at the farm, there was a natural ramp on a hillside. So we played this game where we picked a spot on the ground and then saw who could jump there truck closest to that mark.

Most of the spots we picked at first were around 8-15 feet from the jump, and he beat me in 14 out of 20 jumps! So after the first 19 jumps I picked a spot about 30 feet from the jump, fully knowing he'd never be able to get to that mark! (although he still beat me in accuracy, I wasn't too happy):mad:

Oh well at least I have the speed and distance thing, I'll give him accuracy for now!:p

[dcshoelover]

"hey-

I finally got everything straightened out...

I'm getting the Nitro MT RTR from "R/C Toys and Hobbies"
( http://shop.store.yahoo.com/shoffpa...initrusrs2.html )
"

Hey did anybody look at stealth's link to what hes buying???? It's a nitro rush, but they put a pic of an mt to advertise it. Stealth don't buy from that place , you won't even be getting the right truck. I hope it's not to late.

[stealthpenguin]

shoelover, I'm well aware actually.

It's pretty annoying... it was a mis-advertisment. It was a Rush all along, but it was originally labeled as the Nitro RS4 MT RTR. I emailed them when the listing DID change, and got a response on it. So now im just buying the whole package from Towerhobbies.com . As for the fuel thing, do you think its alright if I store it outdoors, like in a roughneck container?

[doesgo]

I've never bought from Ultimate Hobbies before, but they've got the Nitro MT RTR for $299.99 in their "Hot Specials" section.

But it's hard to argue with the reliability of Tower.

[dcshoelover]

OK, glad that's cleared up. Best bet is to buy a brand of fuel that's in a tin container. When you buy it in a plastic jug, it gathers moisture inside the jug which dilutes the fuel and basically ruins it, and 2, you have to store it inside during winter so the cold can't ruin it, which is highly not recommended, and here's why. I sotred my fuel in my room, and last november my lamp shorted or somethin, still not sure what happened exactly, and started my room on fire. Well having a plastic jug of fuel nearby didn't help. The plastic melted and the fuel increased the fire by like 10 times the size. I lost 2 cats and a dog and justa bout every one of my possesions, except a nitro rustler somehow. So I highly recommend buying tin jug that you can store in your basement or in your garage if it doesn't get to cold.

[stealthpenguin]

Where can I buy nitro fuel in metal containers? Unfortunately Towerhobbies.com doesnt carry them = (. However, would it be fine if the nitro fuel was in a plastic container, but in a dry place? I know that it can absorb water, but is that only in very cold/moist conditions? I live in Northern California, and it doesn't get that cold here. So maybe I could just put it in the garage or something like that?

[M16-A2]

Like I said before, store it in a dry place and make sure the cap is on. If you do your fuel will be fine.

BTW, I bought my brother's NMT from Ultimate and they were just as good as Tower!

[gometro333]

I believe Trinity sells their feul in metal containers but I think they come in huge cans, like 4 gallons.

-Matt

[doesgo]

Traxxas sells their gallons in metal cans.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

geo what kind of motor do you have....................

[stealthpenguin]

If I'm just gonna be messing around mostly, would you recommend 10% or 20% nitro? Also, although it isnt listed on their site, can I specify that I want the fuel in metal containers? Is it that big of a difference if its not exposed to any extreme conditions?

[M16-A2]

Storing fuel in metal containers is not necessary at all! As long as the fuel is stored in a dry place(like a closet in your house), then there will be no problem buying plastic fuel bottles.

As for nitro percentage you'll probably want 20%, as it allows for more power than 10% and still gives you many gallons of engine life!

[psi]

How do these 2 compare?

Going to buy my first off-road rc, trying to pick one.

My brother-in-law swears by RC10GT, but I kind of like Nitro MT since it's 4wd.

What are the pros and cons if you had to compare the two.

Thanx for your help.

--
Psi

[doesgo]

RC10GT is a great racing truck, no question about it. Tough, can be quick, easy to work on, lots of parts out there.

NMT is a great truck overall. Tough, can be quick, easy to work on, lots of parts out there, and 4WD!

I've had two trips to a BMX track recently. The first one I ran my NMT and also my Team Losi XXX-NT. The XXX-NT was really tough and fast, but spun out all over the place and it can't steer very well when accelerating because the front end gets so light. Yeah, there are things you can do with the clutch and suspension and weights and stuff to make it better, but I found my NMT to be much more fun overall.

The next week I did the same thing with my NMT and my RC10GT. Similar result. The GT had a looser clutch than the Losi did so it was a little easier to control (and it has a CV-R instead of the Wasp in the Losi) but still it was not nearly as much fun as the NMT.

For bashing, I think 4WD makes life fun, and I'm selling my Losi and my GT and keeping my NMT! :D

[fordman]

I agree with doesgo. I took out my front dogbones when one broke, and it was like driving a comletely different truck. It would flat haul crack in the straights, but I couldn't keep it planted in the corners. great at doing donuts tho

[Mossdog]

:eek: Everytime I peek back in here someone is posting a similar question that was on another page way back in the eternal thread. LOL Welcome to the never-ending single thread of repetitive question and answer! :eek:

[doesgo]

Takes a lot of time to search through 35 pages of posts! I agree, the single-subject forum stinks, but what can we do? Even with repeat questions, there are only about what, maybe 10 posts per day? That's not much, and the questions keep people thinking.

H-Trainer on the HPI-Europe forum is a volunteer moderator and in my opinion he's killing that forum because he's so overbearing and strict about repeat questions and every question being in the proper forum and all that. It sucks and takes all the fun out of it.

[gometro333]

KOLOR KART,

I have a HPI Nitro Star 15ss.

-matt

[gaus]

Here I am, asking legitimate questions and people are actually talking about how to store fuel? Jeez, cap it tight and keep it in a ventilated room that is not on fire. Treat it like gasoline. Eat it for breakfast and die. What engine should I buy for my NMT RACER for christ's sake? I am buying it tomorrow and getting it FEDEX'd - can anyone tell me why I won't be getting my FUEL and ENGINE in the same SHIPMENT?

gaus

[doesgo]

Asking how to store fuel isn't a "legitimate question"? Everyone was a newbie at some point, even you. That's the point of the forum.

How much are you looking to spend on an engine? From what I've read and from my little experience, the best mid-priced engine for an NMT would be an OS CV-RX 15. Great power, long-lasting, easy to tune. I think they run about $170.

There are tons of other engines of course, from $80 and up. It does seem like you get what you pay for.

[gometro333]

You may not be getting the feul with the engine beacuse the feul has a hazmat charge and they may not think it's safe to ship together.

[gaus]

Yes! Thanks so much.

gaus

Hey, do you think if I keep my fuel next to my water heater with the cap off it will be okay for six months?

[M16-A2]

Originally posted by gaus

Hey, do you think if I keep my fuel next to my water heater with the cap off it will be okay for six months?

Not sure why don't you put it in the engine and see:rolleyes:

[KOLOR KRAFT]

DOESGO check out CRC web site for the STS ENGINES i said it before on the forum but everbodys taking about storing gas. fist hand seen these motors run and they juct plain rip.check the spacs on them and there are also cheap.

[stealthpenguin]

Here I am, asking legitimate questions and people are actually talking about how to store fuel? Jeez, cap it tight and keep it in a ventilated room that is not on fire. Treat it like gasoline. Eat it for breakfast and die.

lloll, nice one gaus...

I'm just asking a lot of questions (although i already know obvious solutions) because my dad was acting paranoid about bringing nitro-methanol into the house thats all (and he's the one who is paying for this bad boy).

[KOLOR KRAFT]

HEY PENGUIN HEAD enough is enough just have your father buy the thing and you run it and brake it then he gets to buy more parts. next you will want to no what kind of batterys to buy should you get chargeables or rayovacs and don't store them in the house either. do wan't to now how much air pressure to put in the tires and where is the best place to get air probably from between your ears............ COME ON DUDE JUST BUY IT RUN SMASH IT AND BAKE IT THEN YOU WILL HAVE ALL THE ANSWERS.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

HERE IS ONE OF THE BEST INFORMATION SITES I HAVE FOUND ON NMT.http://www.nitrotrucks.com/hpi.htm check that one you get all kinds of info..

[KOLOR KRAFT]

hey gometro micro is on e-bay if you wan't it the number is #1920310190 it is awsome..................

[fordman]

1. does anyone know the factory needle settings for the OS 15 CV?
2. what size ball studs are on the NMT, my LHS has a few different sizes
and finally
3. is 70 oz./in. enough torque in a servo or should I spring for the 105 oz./in. I have the aluminum steering, so the front end is freed up a little bit over stock

thanks for any help

[doesgo]

Originally posted by KOLOR KRAFT
DOESGO check out CRC web site for the STS ENGINES i said it before on the forum but everbodys taking about storing gas. fist hand seen these motors run and they juct plain rip.check the spacs on them and there are also cheap.
I don't need an engine, I've got a nearly-new Fantom 15, a used CV-X 15, and a Wasp .12. I'm quite set engine-wise right now!

[stealthpenguin]

calm down kolor

Plus, i have a right to be curious. This is not a cheap toy by any means. Plus, my dad is only contributing to the cost, I still have to pay for most of it.

[M16-A2]

Originally posted by fordman
1. does anyone know the factory needle settings for the OS 15 CV?
2. what size ball studs are on the NMT, my LHS has a few different sizes
and finally
3. is 70 oz./in. enough torque in a servo or should I spring for the 105 oz./in. I have the aluminum steering, so the front end is freed up a little bit over stock

thanks for any help

Stock settings are near 3 turns low and 2-2.5 high, the OS website should have exact settings if you look.

For ball studs I'd highly recommend getting Ti studs, as they never break!
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=LXEY50&P=6

As for servos, go for something like the HiTec 645MG servo(106oz)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ89&P=7

[doesgo]

Anyone know the torque of the stock steering servo in an NMT? I think it's the "SX1", I assume it's made by Airtronics, but I can't find info on it in the HPI site.

I've got a couple JR Racing Z550 servos on hand that have (I think) .15 transit time and .62 in/oz, would they be worth installing or would that be such a minor improvement over stock so as not to be worth my time?

[M16-A2]

The radio that comes with the NMT is an Airtronics, so the stock servos would be 94102Z (Z is just the type of connector).

Stats are:
.22 transit for 60 degrees
50 oz/in.

BTW, I noticed you put .62 in/oz. Could you please do the conversion for me and switch that to oz/in.:D (I know what you meant)

[doesgo]

You say tomato, I say tomato...

There was sort of a push in the 1:1 hot rod scene to start using pound-feet instead of foot-pounds for torque values because it was the accurate way to represent it. People resisted, and most people say foot-pounds again.

Okay, so how about the Z550 puts out .0075 pound-feet? :p

[Lanc3r]

f.y.i. for 40 bucks, you can get a Tower high torque MG servo with 1/133 IN/OZ...:D :p (do the math)

kolor, please chill, trust me, when I was new, I had many questions to ask too, and to some ...let's say "more experienced" people they may have seemed a little dumb..and most of us here really DO need the financial help of fellow human beings...

i guess the point of this post is...it is realy annoying to break the STUPID **************** ARRRGH ***** glow starter, and be refused a short-term loan until next allowance-day (4 days, count 'em) so I'm out for this week...

Now i get to clean my room!!! woohoo!!!
[/sarcasm]

lanc3r

[brassmonkey]

uh-oh the tread is dying....

So anyway list of hop-ups this Christmas:

O.S. cv-rx (hopefully)
adjustable slipper clutch
masher 2ks

That's pretty much it. I don't like wasting my parent's money, I know the value of a dollar. Let me know if I should replace or add anything (Will the O.S. tear up the drive train?), it cant be super expensive, I want to keep cost DOWN. Thanks.

[fordman]

The drivetrain should hold up well with the O.S.
I've just ordered
Ti ball studs
Ti turnbuckles
and replacenent arms and gearboxes

also, will this flywheel fit the 15 CV in my NMT?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=LXTG76&P=7

Rock on, and have a Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

[M16-A2]

That flywheel will fit.

[fordman]

is that fly wheel bigger or smaller than stock, and either way will I have to change the engaging point on my starter box?

[doesgo]

That's smaller than a stock pull-start flywheel. I doubt you'll be able to use it with a pull-start engine since the pullstart mounts are higher than non-pull-start mounts. The starter wheel won't be able to get high enough in the chassis to contact the flywheel.

How about the HPI lightweight flywheel? Cheap, lighter than stock, and it'll work with a starter box and pull-start engine.

[fordman]

cool, thanks
this may sound like a dumb question to you guys, but
what are the advantages of an aluminum flywheel over a cast one?

[M16-A2]

That flywheel is 32mm, which means you need 15mm(or non-pullstart) engine mounts for it to work. If you want a flywheel for pullstart engine mounts, HPI makes a lightweight wheel.

The advantages to this type of lightened wheel is that it allows the engine to spool much faster and gets you up through the powerband faster than a heavier flywheel would.

[doesgo]

Just to clarify, if you have a pull-starter, you can't use the non-pull-start mounts.

I believe all flywheels are cast aluminum (the ones I've seen, at least). Lightweight flywheels are typically thinner or smaller in diameter or have lightening holes drilled in them.

[PCC]

Originally posted by brassmonkey
So anyway list of hop-ups this Christmas:

adjustable slipper clutch


As far as I can tell, the slipper clutch cannot handle more than about 1HP well. More than that and the thing gets so hot that the plastic spur gear just melts off the mount (I've seen this happen myself but it was because of the 21RG's greater torque). Others have reported that engines, like the Evo II and MT12, will melt the spur, too. Clamping down the slipper helps but then it defeats the whole purpose of the slipper clutch.

[Mossdog]

I was wondering about that same thing. I have run my NMT without a slipper since I got it. I do bend dogbones in the front quite a bit while jumping and bashing but so far my rear CVDS are doing great! I have not yet stipped a spur. Soon I am upgrading my engine and was contemplating a slipper as well. Maybe I should spend that cash on front CVDS instead. No use in buying a slipper to just tighten it right up, wont protect the drivetrain anyways.

[M16-A2]

Now you know why I run a steel spur gear!

[Mossdog]

Yep, I may need one after the new powerplant.

[mtracer]

Does anyone have any current Tower Hobbies Codes??

I know back when HPI's forum was up there was a guy that used to post Tower Codes.

They saved you money on shipping and off the total amounts of the purchase,

Please help.....

[tmaxx_1]

i was thinking about getting a mt for christmas, i have a t-maxx and a e-maxx now, but i thought about setting a mt up for street/dirt. is the mt racer worth the extra money? i saw the mt is now updated but not the racer. will a traxxas 2.5 engine fit the mt? anyone try this? thanks

[doesgo]

If I could do it over again, I'd get the MT Racer. I don't care for the stock engine in the NMT and if you're going to replace it rather soon anyway, why not get the Racer and a nice aftermarket engine and enjoy the upgrades that come with the Racer?

[doesgo]

Originally posted by mtracer
Does anyone have any current Tower Hobbies Codes??

I know back when HPI's forum was up there was a guy that used to post Tower Codes.

They saved you money on shipping and off the total amounts of the purchase,

Please help.....
This one is good for $10 off anything $99 or over: 010BR

It's good through December 8.

[doesgo]

I destroyed my first spur gear in my NMT yesterday. I was just bashing in the driveway/yard/street, not doing anything out of the ordinary, and suddenly it sounded funny. About half the teeth are gone now.

My question is, what are the possible causes for this to happen so I can try to avoid it in the future? I've got a Fantom FR15 engine, 11-tooth bell, and no slipper.

1) Landing a jump with too many rpm (no jumping yesterday)
2) Gear mesh (I checked that with a doubled-over piece of paper)
3) Too much power (I wish!)
What else?

Thanks.

[M16-A2]

Engine vibration can loosen the engine mount screws and mess up your gear mesh. Make sure all metal to metal screws are secured with loctite. A slipper will help greatly in preventing gears from stripping, so would a larger clutchbell(would take some of that low end power away).

Of course landing a large jump puts a lot of stress on the drivetrain and could even cause a little chassis flex which would lead to a stripped spur.

[CWB]

Does someone make a skid that covers the spur gear it seems to hang low and jumping i am buttoming out a little.

[M16-A2]

There is a lexan cover included with every body...
If you need to make one just get a 2-liter soda bottle and cut it to fit, then put the screws through it.

[Clod_Killer]

Does anyone actually race their NMT? I am not talking racing your buds lol, I mean actual at the track racing. Just wondering.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

i asked that question about 4 pages ago and got a additude racers should have there own thread. i race my nmt,mbx ofna and hpi micro on carpet and a 1/12 scale carpet knife. every thursday offroad some special races on the weekends in the summer now is indoor carpet races ovals and road course i would say i am a racer but these don't seem to be .........

[M16-A2]

I race at the local track(next season I'll own the local track:)), but there hasn't been a lot of competition here lately. This season I ended on a 24+ week winning streak. Competition around here consists of 3-4 Maxx's, 2-3 N-Rustlers, a Rush, and my brothers NMT.

Most of the kids that own these trucks are just out for fun(as I am too), but they don't compete well when thrown onto a closed track. Oh well the important thing is everybody has a good time and I get to teach some of the newer RC/ers some tricks and tips!

[KOLOR KRAFT]

On a good night of offroad racing there is about ten t-maxs and my mt, other classes are 1/8 buggy about 20 of us,2wd. nitro stadium trucks losi,rush,rc-10 etc. and electric stock trucks and electric mod trucks. The stock electric trucks are usually young kids my 5 year old son drives in that class. We will have 3 heat races and the main usually ends about 11:00 at night every thursday. Believe it the fast lap times come from electric mod trucks all the time.

[Clod_Killer]

Thanks guys, thats what I wanted to know. Here, they race 2wd and 4wd stadium together. Its indoor dirt (Big exhaust fans) and they figure the gain the 4wd's have is picked up by the speed of the lighter 2wd tracks, since its hard pack and traction isn't a problem. I know most people use them for play, didn't know if anyone wanted to talk setups and such for the track. I would love to see the class take off. I think 4wd stadium is the most fun.

Oh, I am working on a set of Carbon Fiber shock towers for the truck as well, that allows for a lot more adjustments.

[nmtr13]

My god its 1:40 already... Im tired. Anyway heres what i need
I got 100+ to spend on my mt racer. I dont know what to buy.
I already have:
RB 12X
Trinity pipe
Dynamite air filter
What else do i have?? Ill add on on more tom. when im not falling asleep on the keyboard...
O yea and why does it say i posted at 10:45??

[tmaxx_1]

hi, im new to this sorry if this is a repeat question. i wanted the most recent info. what are a few good engines for the mt racer. i will be racing so they have to be .12 size. what about crank size i dont want to have to cut it(not sure what size is needed for the mt kit) thank you for your help.

[Clod_Killer]

The blue head Picco's, RB's, Nova Rossi's, OS. CV-R, etc. If you have to stick with .12 class, get the best you can afford.

[doesgo]

Is there anything wrong with switching brands of fuel in an engine? I've got half a gallon of Blue Thunder run through my engine, but I've got half a gallon of Trinity Monster Fuel with no place to go. Same nitro content, same oil content. Any problems with that?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

I WILL SAY IT AGAIN before you make the purchase check the specs on CRC website which is frank calandra racing here in rome,ny he is the only importer for STS highly modified .12 but legal just plain rips i think its 5 port and 3 but you need a starter box. i race with them on thursday and its hard to catch them on the back stretch and i have os 15cv-rx that i thought really ripped . christmas is coming i think my wife got me the STS motor so now i have two choices to race . now if i find another mt cheap i will be all set this summer.............

[KOLOR KRAFT]

not a good idea to switch fuels you already been running in a motor due to DIFERENT kinds of oils used try to stick with the same fuel with the same piston and sleeve.

[brassmonkey]

mmmmmmm, look at this picco: p15 .15 pull start picco exahast (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=lxrt74&p=7) Do you think it will fit? It's ten dollars cheaper than the CV-RX too. $10 off with that code. Comes out to $159 not too bad :cool:


*** the link's not working!

[willt]

Im just wondering what the top speed of the Nitro RS4 MT is? How fast would it be with a 2 speed tranny?

thanks,
Will

[brassmonkey]

The Nitro MT goes 32 bone stock, as to w/ the 2 speed, I have no idea. M-16 A2 has a 2 speed, I think, ask him.

[M16-A2]

I don't have a 2-speed, but if I gear at 18/49 I've been clocked at 54mph(RB Concepts X12 as a powerplant).

[fordman]

when i let my buddy from work borrow my truck, he tried to bump-start it with a dremel tool that had a buffing wheel on it. (I'm still kicking myself)
anyway, he wore a flat spot in the flywheel. should i not run it until I get a new flywheel, or is it all right for a few tanks.
it's barely noticable, but I can tell it's there

[stealthpenguin]

It's come to my attention that I need batteries and a charger to keep the 16 (i think) batteries intact needed to power the radio stuff.

What brand of batteries should I buy?

[rc/guitarman69]

Hey guys iam getting a Hpi Nmt racer kit. It has this stuff on it (Powerline aluminum front lower suspension mount, titanium front shock tower, HD diffs in the rear) So can any body else recomend any other hopups for it and also can you send me some links of companys that make hopups for it? Thanks!

[doesgo]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
It's come to my attention that I need batteries and a charger to keep the 16 (i think) batteries intact needed to power the radio stuff.

What brand of batteries should I buy?
I'd just start out with 12 regular ol' AA batteries from Energizer or Duracell, but make sure you keep the receiver batteries fresh to avoid a runaway. When you can afford it, get a NiCad or NiMh 5-cell receiver pack, but to charge it you'll need a charger that can charge at a 1-amp rate (I believe that's what's recommended).

You can also get rechargeable radio batteries, just rechargeable AAs, and there should be a charge jack in the radio for charging them, but I'm not sure what you need to buy, specifically.

[M16-A2]

Tx batts:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFE07&P=7

Rx batts:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVG17&P=7

Charger(if you use the stock Airtronics system):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXLX84&P=M

[brassmonkey]

Anyone know of a header that will fit the picco side exahaust?click here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRT74&p7)

[stealthpenguin]

Originally posted by M16-A2
Tx batts:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFE07&P=7

Rx batts:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVG17&P=7

Charger(if you use the stock Airtronics system):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXLX84&P=M

So M16, I need all of these things to power the radio?
How long will the batteries last?
What amp rate is recommended (according to doesgo its 1)
I already have some NiMh batteries and a 4 batt. charger, can I use this? Or should I get one with a greater capacity?

Man, the cost on this R/C is really adding up... over $400 just to get started.

[doesgo]

$5 worth of AAs will get you started, Stealth, you can work your way up to the rechargeables. I'd get the regular dry cell AAs and a small spring from the hardware store to serve as a throttle-return spring in case the batteries wear out and you don't notice. It's a low-tech, poor-man's failsafe.

When you get some money, get a failsafe and a 5-cell rechargeable receiver pack. The 8 AAs in the transmitter last quite a while.

[M16-A2]

Tx = transmitter
Rx = reciever
The charger is just an easy all in one charger that I've found is very easy to use.

[mawapa]

Brassmonkey, good luck... i made that engine my first nitro. looked everywhere and never found a header that would fit. ended up bending and cutting a trinity header but, never got it running good. now i've got a cvrx15 in my nmtr and i'm very pleased! but don't get me wrong, i want to put the picco in my first on-road nitro because i have seen it perform and it really hauls!!! ... does anyone know what on-road kits has a header that will fit