Nitro MT and MT Racer Forum

[gometro333]

I have abnout 5 inches here.

M16-A2,

What is the X12 actually called on speedzoneraceway.com? They don't have anything called the X12.

-Matt

I've been out for a while but it's good to be back.

[M16-A2]

http://www.speedzoneraceway.com/product.asp?3=509

That's the link, however speedzone is restructuring their shopping cart and CANNOT take orders online. If you want to order an engine call them up at 1-866-590-0763

[nito mt 105]

hi everyone i need help deciding on an engine for under 180 bucks. Is the .15 cv-r really good because i am mostly into racing and bash when ever possible. I have aslo heard the Hpi .15 ss w/ pullstart is good. I have on idea on how much these engines run but could you guys please help. I have a .15 cvr-x in my t-maxsx but i don't want another one of those.

[Lanc3r]

we have about 10 inches in mid-jersey!!! and i've already run my truck!! man it is awesome....4-wheel, perfectly contorlled drifts, jumps over snow forts, into the woods, over parked cars...It was a dream!! i just wish my stupid slipper spur wouldn't have stripped....Is there such a thing as a replacement slipper spur? or do i need to buy a whole new slipper? also, amazingly, none of my electronics even cared about the large amounts of snow covering the whole chassis of teh truck...And is there a way to keep the engine mount screws in their respective places? I tried the blue stuff, but it didn't work, just gunked up the whole chassis. As i said before, the tower 133 oz/in (6.0v) heavy duty MG servo is only around 40 bucks...about what you'd pay for a pair of regular servos, and less than a third of what you would pay for a comparable brand-name servo..A good engine under 180 bucks....that would be an XTM .15 and 90 bucks of upgrades....I have heard good things about them, and tried to locate one..they're slippery though, hard to find. The 15ss is a good-quality engine, but i have never tried it. well, I can talk today, cant i?

lanc3r

[M16-A2]

You can just buy a replacement spur. Any of the 2-speed spurs will fit. If you want a more durable alternative I can make a metal spur for you. (hmm was that a shameless plug?)

[brassmonkey]

weeeeee! I finally got a chance to run my nmt again! The heatsink came last night and I just put it on today. Runs great, but there's room for improvment (cv-rx, another inch of ride height;) ). Going to the park Sunday to chase little kids around w/ my r/c, good times:D. Anyway, yeah M16-A2, that'd be great if you made a nmt forum! If you need any moderaters shoot me a pm! I don't think I'd be much help though, I'm busy all week till' the weekend. As long as you keep a strict policy, I don't think there should be much need for a lot of moderation anyway.

[gometro333]

Ok one more question M16-A2, what engine mounts do I use with the X12, what flywheel and what pipe and manifold? Sorry for all teh questions but my parents insist that I tell them EXACTLY what I want.

-Matt

[gometro333]

In other words, what do I NEED when I get the X12?

[Lanc3r]

ack!!! is it possible to get the gunk that comes out of the pipe out of clothes? I (hopefully non-pernamently) just accidentally got 3 big drops of that green gunk on my shirt, and i had just come back from school.....:D :( :o

lanc3r

[brassmonkey]

I dunno man, looks like that green gunk is there pernamently. You could use a marker and mark over the stain :).

[M16-A2]

If it's a white or color safe shirt, try using Bleach or Clorox, but that gunk is oil and isn't easy to get out.

If you have the time please go here and vote for this poll:
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=239

It's all about your favorite color for anodized aluminum!

[gometro333]

M16-A2,

I hate to be rude but could you please tell me what fits for the X12? (header, pipe, flywheel, engine mounts)

Thanks

-Matt

[M16-A2]

Any nonPS flywheel and mounts, any .12 or .15 pipe, and this header:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTB62&P=7

[brassmonkey]

Wow, that new HPI forum is really cool, wish there was more members though, but I did see a lot of familiar faces, Kedar, Udi, RAZOR, DFF, even F4i has registered. Thanks for the link M16-A2.


EDIT: I mean the unoffical one, the new HPI faq one sucks.

[CWB]

HPI destrpyed there furoms , i think they really suck now

[stealthpenguin]

M16, I just noticed that the links you gave me a long time ago for parts that I need for my NMT, are for the electric RS4 MT. Are these parts compatible? I looked at the prices for the NMT dogbones, and they are much more expensive.

[M16-A2]

You'll have to repost the links, I'm not going searching...

Could be I made a mistake or they may be compatible...

[stealthpenguin]

heres the part #'s of the parts that you recommended to me:

LXM844 - Dogbones
LXTB40 - Suspension Mount Shock Tower
LXM846 - Suspension Arms

[M16-A2]

Yup those are all correct.(I just cross referenced them with the Nitro MT manual and the part numbers are correct)

[Lanc3r]

Yeah, I think the NMT and the EMT have the same suspension pieces....Arms, bones, and the shock tower...the chassis is the only different thing.

Anyone that knows stuff about electronics: Is it bad when my throttle servo suddenly shifted its center point? I checked, and there was no water in it, or anything. I isolated the reciever, the batteries, and the switch, and taped the servo seams....And my throttle servo is the only one with the problem. :confused:

lanc3r

[stealthpenguin]

hey, do you guys know of any advertisment codes for Tower Hobbies?

I already know of the one posted on their site for $30 off orders $400+. Are there any others valid until 12/15?

[gometro333]

lanc3r,

What kind of transmitter do you use? I know my JR Python has these switches on top that make everything backwards, could be something like that.

-Matt

[gometro333]

Sorry for all the questions guys, but here come two more.

-What is a good cooling head that fits the HPI Nitro Star .15ss?
-What is a good, non-restrictive header for that engine?

Thanks a bundle.

-Matt

[fordman]

this one was recomended to me, and it works great! I didn't know that the stock manifold was so restrictive

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP45&P=7

[M16-A2]

Yes the Tmaxx header is better than the stock one. My brother has been using it for some time and loves it with his XTM 15.

[gometro333]

Do I need anything else, like that thing that goes between it and the engine? Or will the one I have fit?

Thanks

-Matt

Also, what heatsink head fits the HPI 15ss?

[fordman]

This one looks pretty sweet!

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN426&P=7

[nmtr13]

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

[fordman]

Actually the black heatsink that comes with the .15 SS looks like it would do a pretty good job of dissipating the heat. Since I've never owned one, I can't say that for positive, just my $.02

And the exhaust gaskets aren't that expensive,( I think it's 2 bux for 5 of them at my LHS ) so replacing them wouldn't hurt.

Does anyone know what the white stuff on those gaskets is?

[gometro333]

Does the better heatsink for the 15FE fit on the 15ss? That is the one I was looking at.

-Matt

[M16-A2]

The stock SS head is fine, it'll cool very well for that engine.

[stealthpenguin]

Isn't there a special type of oil that you need for the shocks?

My friend is getting a gas-powered airsoft gun, and he said that there is special silicone oil that you need for it. He thought that maybe they were the same type of oil.

[PCC]

Originally posted by gometro333
Sorry for all the questions guys, but here come two more.

-What is a good cooling head that fits the HPI Nitro Star .15ss?
-What is a good, non-restrictive header for that engine?

Thanks a bundle.

-Matt

Sorry to disappoint you but no one makes an aftermarket head for the 15SS. You are stuck with what came with it. None of the heads made for any of the other HPI engines will fit it: the NitroStar 15 and 15FE have a slightly larger bore and the Japanese-made .12's have a smaller bore (the Novarossi-made heads won't even bolt up). I don't know if the Fantom .15 head will fit the 15SS. Anyone near San Francisco with a Fantom .15 want to try?

The T-Maxx or any of the aftermarket manifolds made for the older T-Maxx with the TRX15 will fit and work great.

[fordman]

I'll bet your friend could use shock oil in his gun b/c in his case the weight of the oil isn't crucial, all it does is prevent the bolt from gumming up and binding.

But i don't think you could use his oil in your shocks unless you knew what weight it was. And shock oil is specially designed not to gum up or become thicker as the temperature drops. I bought some cheap shock oil a few months ago, and when it got really cold it was like running 70 or 80 wt.

[FTR]

hey i just got an mt with:
m-16
stinger pipe
cvd's
aluminum steering knuckles
supernitro wheels and buggy dirt hawgs for a mini 1/8th scale look. so what do ya think to finish the buggy theme my friend started here is what i had in mindLXM738 HPI Fiber Brake Disk

1 12.99
LXXA45 O.S. .12 CV-RX w/10C Slide Carb On-Road
Accessories Needed
1 124.99
LXAX21 MIP Clutch Kit RS4 Nitro Mini

1 13.79
LXTG77 Robinson Racing Vented Flywheel P/S Purple RS4

1 23.19
LXCPX4 THS Racing Products Tuned Pipe Set HPI RTR-3

1 49.99
LXNJ38 Mugen Wing Stay w/Body Mount MBX-4

1 16.59
LXNJ92 Mugen Nylon Wing White MBX-4

1 9.49
LXWC18 HPI Slipper Clutch Set Nitro MT

1 28.99
LXTB54 HPI Heavy Duty 38T Final Gear Nitro RS4 MT

1 29.99
LXTB55 HPI Heavy Duty 13T Final Gear Nitro RS4 MT

1 13.99
LXZJ59 Lunsford Racing Titanium Turnbuckle/Pin Kit RS4 MT

1 39.99
LXVZ57 Powerline Drive Gear Mount Nitro RS4 MT

1 29.99
LXVZ54 Powerline Rear Lower Arm Mount Nitro RS4 MT

1 22.79
LXVZ52 Powerline Rear Shock Braces Nitro RS4 MT

1 11.99
LXVZ48 Powerline Rear Shock Tower Nitro RS4 MT

1 22.79
LXJV66 Pro Shock Bushings Associated

1 7.59
LX3408 Associated Air Filter Kit

1 7.19
LXTB52 HPI Graphite Upper Deck Nitro RS4 MT

1 34.99
LXVZ44 Powerline Rear Hub Carriers Nitro RS4 MT

1 22.79
LXRB01 RPM Lower Spring Cups Yellow Associated

1 2.89
LXLZ67 HGI Spring Clamps Alloy Associated/HPI

2 9.49
LXRB06 RPM Heavy Duty Rod Ends Blue 4-40 (12)

1 4.79
LXL589 HGI 4mm Knockoff Wheel Nuts

2 9.49
LXVU04 RPM Nylon Nuts Blue 3mm (8)

1 2.39
LXCJE4 Associated 4-40x5/16 Button Head Cap Screws Blue Alum

3 1.90
LX2845 Associated Aluminum Flat Head Screw 4/40x3/8 (6)

3 1.90
LX2849 Associated Aluminum Flat Head 4/40x1/2 (6)

3 1.90
LXVE52 Trinity Blue Lightweight Countersunk Washers II

1 7.59
LXVE51 Trinity Aluminum LW Countersunk Washers II

1 5.39
LL6806 KHB O.S. Quick Fit Conversion Kit

1 41.99
LXJM31 Traxxas EZ-Start Starting System
Accessories Needed
1 27.99
LXAFD2 DuraTrax Shark 6 Cell 1500 Sport Standard
Qty Discount Available
1 10.99
LXVZ49 Powerline 4mm Chassis Nitro RS4 MT
Possible Substitutions
1 33.99
Sub-Totals: In-Stock Items: $683.19
Your order contains back-ordered merchandise.
Click here for our back order policy. Back Orders: $33.99
Combined: $717.18
it is a bit pricy but i just got a job at my lhs so i get a discount and cash

the mt is so fun to drive. love it more than my SWEET gt i traded to get it but the fun and potentail balls to the wall insanity is worth it
i will be hanging around here alot

FTR

[doesgo]

Sounds like a great project! But tell me about these "buggy Dirt Hawgs"? What exactly do you mean?

[FTR]

proline dirt hawgs that are meant for the rear of an electric 1/10 scale buggy

i also have a set of nice ae teflon factoryteam shocks with mip nitrade shafts, and progressive suspention resavaors (sp?)

FTR

[doesgo]

Oh, shoot. I've got a 1/8 buggy and I don't like the tires that are available for it and I was hoping for something similar to Dirt Hawgs. I love 2.2 Dirt Hawgs! But I have yet to see something like them for the 1/8-scale buggy wheels. All these little pins and plus signs and equals signs and stuff wear off so fast when you touch pavement.

[gometro333]

K thanks guys

-matt

[mawapa]

hey M16, buddy...which gs air filter adapter do i need? i ordered one from horizon but it is 45 degrees and it looks like the one you use is 90 degrees. thanks for any help!

[PSD]

Is it worth the 40 bucks for the graphite upper deck.

[fordman]

For me the Graphite isn't worth the money, since I mainly bash around. I've been told(correct me if I'm wrong) that graphite is stronger and stiffer, but it's also more brittle and could shatter in a crash.
it's just my 2 cents, but I think that 40 bucks could be spent on something else.


I also had a Question tho,
Where can I find a good center diff? I've heard that it makes the nmt handle better, or was i getting a load of BS

[nitrobug]

ofna, and proline make 1/8 road tires for buggies.

[doesgo]

Originally posted by nitrobug
ofna, and proline make 1/8 road tires for buggies.
I want off-road tires for it, but ones that won't wear out after five minutes on pavement. There are pins, spikes, = treads, + treads, etc., and on-road. But I haven't seen anything like Mashers or Dirt Hawgs for buggies, i.e. something that is good on all surfaces and has some decent life.

[stealthpenguin]

Hey guys, is it okay to run the NMT in wet conditions? (wet asphault, wet grass, etc.).

Also, what grade of silicone oil is required for the shock towers? My friend's air-soft gun uses 10-15.

[RCRACER2471]

is the mt lets say durable enough to handle a jump up to 3ft high onto concrete because thats what i most concerned about the car. Any thoughts??

[gometro333]

I've jumped my NMT off my roof into a flower bed and it did fine.

Stealth,

Most people use 40-50wt shock oil. If you used ten your truck would just sit on the ground and drag the chassis.

-matt

[stealthpenguin]

ok, k... thanx = P

[fordman]

As long as you seal up the electrics, you shouldn't have a problem.
This page should tell you everything you need to know. it says it's for running in the snow, but it's all the same thing

http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/ht_snoproof.asp

[stealthpenguin]

ok, k... thanx = P

[stealthpenguin]

yah, so thats how i water-proof it, but is it okay to just run it on wet asphalt and grass without any modification of the servo-boxes n' stuff?

[fordman]

I've just insalled the proline aluminum steering and a tower TS-65 stering servo. Whenever I steer, the throttle servo twitches, and I can hear the engine "bobble" in the turns.
Has anyone else had this problem? how do I fix it?
This never happened before, and the only metal on metal contact is the steering.
A neighbor suggested that it might be the crystal in the radio or in the Rx.


Stealth,
It wouldn't hurt to seal up your servos anyway, "just in case".

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

40 for the graphite isn't worth it!!!
go with F4i's Titanium stuff!!!!
here is some pictures
http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/f4i_hpi/images/frontshocktower.jpg
http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/f4i_hpi/images/rearshocktower.jpg
http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/f4i_hpi/images/nmtrupperdeck.jpg
http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/f4i_hpi/images/hdpolishchassis.jpg
http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/f4i_hpi/images/lwchassis.jpg

the site
http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/

[rushmadness]

Is it worth it to buy the hpi nitro racing clutch? I have an mt and a rush and I broke the springs on my rush. What does the racing clutch do and is it worth it?

[rushmadness]

Is it worth it to buy the hpi nitro racing clutch? I have an mt and a rush and I broke the springs on my rush. What does the racing clutch do and is it worth it?

[fordman]

The racing clutch does two things.
1. it has larger pads for a greater contact patch, which means less slippage under power. like nailing the throttle at the base of a steep hill

2.it's adjustable. Think of it as a stall converter on a 1:1.
you can set it up to engauge at a low rpm for smooth off the line starts(like a passenger car), at mid rpm for a little bit more of a snappy start, or at a higher rpm where the enine is in it's meatiest part of the rpm range(like a drag car).

Just a reminder, the higher you have it set, the more strain is put on the spur gear and other drive train, and the engine will be forced to rev higher more often

[fordman]

when I bought my NMT it was used and already had the racing clutch installed, so I can't give you a testimony on how the original clutch worked, but I have the racing clutch on the second hole(mid-rpm) and it has worked just fine for me.


Does anyone have an idea what is causing my servos to glitch?
I doubt the aluminum steering is doing it.

[doesgo]

Originally posted by rushmadness
Is it worth it to buy the hpi nitro racing clutch? I have an mt and a rush and I broke the springs on my rush. What does the racing clutch do and is it worth it?

I love the racing clutch! Admittedly I installed it at the same time as a lightweight flywheel and I dropped to an 11-tooth clutchbell (replacing the stock 12-tooth), but the difference was significant. I've got a Fantom engine which is a bit soft on the bottom end so this clutch (using the middle setting) allowed the engine to rev a little more before the shoes hit the bell, so off-the-line performance was greatly improved. I can easily take my friends' T-Maxx and Savage off the line and it's pretty close on the top end. I'm tempted to try the 3rd hole in the clutch to see what difference it makes, but if I don't like it it'll cost me another $12 to get another clutch to go back to the 2nd hole. Decisions, decisions.

[doesgo]

Originally posted by gometro333
Most people use 40-50wt shock oil. If you used ten your truck would just sit on the ground and drag the chassis.

-matt
Not true, Gometro. The springs are what hold the car off the ground. The shocks (and shock oil) dampen the up-and-down movement between the arms and the chassis. The thinner oil will allow faster and easier movement, thicker oil will dampen the action of the arms vs. the chassis and will help prevent the chassis from bottoming out. Thicker oil will tend to cause the chassis to be more bouncy, however.

[stealthpenguin]

so then, what weight of shock oil would you recommend?

[doesgo]

I don't have enough experience to recommend a particular weight of shock oil, I was just explaining how it all works together.

What I've heard recommended most often is 35-40 weight for bashing. I've heard 20 weight is stock in NMTs, is that true? I've got some 40wt silicone on hand, so that's what I'll be going with.

[M16-A2]

I use 30 and blue springs all around. If you want to get a little more bite in the corners or on loose dirt, use an oil in the back that is about 5wt. less than your oil in the front. This will allow the rear to sag a little more than the front and will cause more grip.

[SleepyGMan]

Does anyone have any idea what may be causing Fordman's glitch? I've had a steering glitch ever since I bought my NT Racer. I had the guy at my LHS check it out and he didn't know what would cause it. Are there common things to check for glitching? Thanks.

[M16-A2]

Dirty crystals could cause glitching. Metal to metal contact could cause it. Any local interference(cell towers, some power plants, etc.) can cause it.
Also things like dead or dying batteries can cause it.

Best thing to do is make sure the transmitter and reciever stay clean as well as your servos. If you can seal your servos using a thin bead of silicon.

Always make sure your batteries are charged and fresh(rechargeables really work well for Rx packs!).

[mtracer]

here it goes.....
<html>

<head>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Language" content="en-us">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=windows-1252">
<meta name="GENERATOR" content="Microsoft FrontPage 4.0">
<meta name="ProgId" content="FrontPage.Editor.Document">
<title>New Page 1</title>
</head>

<body>

<p align="center"><a href="http://**************/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=3101235057&amp;ssPageName= ADME:B:LC:US:1"><b><font size="6">click
here </font></b></a></p>

</body>

</html>


http://web.tampabay.rr.com/mtracer/ebay.htm

[samaj]

I was just wondering if anyone has put the Proline Jeep body on the Nitro MT. I want to replicate a scale lookw with the Proline dirt hawg tyres.

[samaj]

I have a brand new 2-speed set that i jave been wanting to use on my Nitro MT. But i wanna run it offroad. Is it safe...? Is ayone running it........? What precautions can u take....?

[M16-A2]

There have been people who use the 2-speed offroad. However it is not recommended because:

1)The 2-speed uses a one way bearing that is very susceptible to dirt, and may seize if it gets too dirty.

2)Usually when you run offroad you leave the ground frequently. If you take a jump and are in second gear you will lose RPM's when you land and the tranny will switch down to 1st gear. However such a sudden change puts a lot of stress on the gears and drivetrain.


You can run offroad with it but be sure to clean everything very well!!! Also don't go so fast offroad that you're going to leave the ground in second gear, as that could also spell trouble for your spurs.

[samaj]

I was just wondering. I have a T-maxx too with a 2-speed. Then howcome the two-speed on the T-maxx survives after jumps. Is it simply because its completely sealed.......? Or dose it work differently........

[M16-A2]

It works differently.

I haven't looked at the TMaxx 2-speed specifically, but most MT 2-speeds use a slipper/2-speed combo which allows them to be run offroad much more effectively.

[brassmonkey]

Wheee! I finnaly have some pics (those of you who visit the new forums have already seen them)!

[brassmonkey]

Well, can't find my other one :confused:. BTW: How much is the RB Concepts X12? Is it really $239?!

[M16-A2]

$149 at www.speedzoneraceway.com

[X-Tee Ha !]

Got myself an NMT Racer yesterday :D It's brand new and built but the thing is it has a throttle/brake horn for a slide carb, I have an engine with the rotary carb and I want the original HPI two part servo horn.

Can anybody tell me if part no. A396 (this is the tree with all the mouldings I need) comes with the servo saver spring A396B ? Cuz I can't find A396B listed seperately but A396 is just ---

INCLUDES: Four Servo horns (per radio brand)
Two Bellcrank arms
One Steering plate
Four nylon bushings
One servo arm

So where do I get the spring from?

Thanks

[Mossdog]

I am not sure that HPI part #A396 comes with a spring, the plastic trees bought from HPI that I have purchased only contain the plastic parts tree.

Check out my NMT at www.mossdog.freeservers.com

[brassmonkey]

$149?! Sweet! I'll have to get myself a starter box though :( . That will probably push me over my spending limit. What's the cheapest starter box I can get that will still do a good job of starting? The cheapest starter box I can find is $59, but I don't think it includes everything I need... Hey wait! I have a 1700 pack from my Bandit and a charger too! Will that be enough?

[mtracer]

Can you sell on here?? or advertise??

Of so Im going to part out MT racer, because nobody want to buy it as it is, I guess too much money....

Anway I have a few things listed on e-bay....

if you need hop up's just check out the auction page that has the MT on it, I have all the hop up's listed....
Check out user name kramer2003 on e-bay

http://******************************.dll?ViewSellersOthe rItems&userid=kramer2003&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=25

[M16-A2]

If anybody wants a metal spur gear for their NMT I have an order of them coming in later this week! Cost is $25 per gear(shipped) and the gear must be used with a slipper clutch.

Email me at gimps_2k2@yahoo.com if interested.

[SleepyGMan]

I bought my MT Racer last spring and it did not include a throttle return spring. It had the plastic "c" clip type spring that mounts to the servo and allows me to set the stop point of my carb and still put pressure on the brakes. There is a similar spring for the steering servo, so jolts don't strip the gears immediately. One of the springs was metal, the other plastic. As for a true throttle return spring, I went to my LHS and bought a spring that was intended for another car, I'm not sure which, and modified it to fit mine.

[doesgo]

Originally posted by mtracer
Can you sell on here?? or advertise??

Of so Im going to part out MT racer, because nobody want to buy it as it is, I guess too much money....

Anway I have a few things listed on e-bay....

if you need hop up's just check out the auction page that has the MT on it, I have all the hop up's listed....
Check out user name kramer2003 on e-bay

http://******************************.dll?ViewSellersOthe rItems&userid=kramer2003&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=25
Check out what auction page? On eBay or on R/C Zone? I might be interested in some of your parts, and I saw the full list on eBay and on the Buy/Sell/Trade forum here on R/C Zone, but I don't see any parts auctions or any prices for individual parts.

[mtracer]

Originally posted by doesgo
Check out what auction page? On eBay or on R/C Zone? I might be interested in some of your parts, and I saw the full list on eBay and on the Buy/Sell/Trade forum here on R/C Zone, but I don't see any parts auctions or any prices for individual parts.

I was waiting to see if I got any bites on it by itself...

I will compile a list with pics and prices and post them very soon..

What are you intrested in??

Thanks

[doesgo]

I have interest in the following stuff, but not all at once, and it would depend on the results of the next two days. :D

RPM ball ends
Lunsford turnbuckles
titanium shock towers
125cc fuel tank
bodies
Masher 2Ks
HPI MT SUSPENSION SET, EXTRA FRONT AND REAR ARMS, HUB CARRIERS,
POWERLINE DRIVE GEAR MOUNT
POWERLINE REAR PURPLE ALUMINUM SHOCKS
POWERLINE ALUMINUM STEERING BELL CRANK
POWERLINE REAR SHOCK TOWER BRACES
DURATRAX FRONT PURPLE ALUMINUM SHOCKS

[brassmonkey]

Originally posted by doesgo

125cc fuel tank
POWERLINE DRIVE GEAR MOUNT
POWERLINE ALUMINUM STEERING BELL CRANK

Ditch those. You don't really need them. Better to have a Powerline aluminum radio tray.

[M16-A2]

Actually Powerline aluminum steering is a pretty sweet hopup to get. It eliminates almost all the slop in the NMT steering!

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Originally posted by brassmonkey
Ditch those. You don't really need them. Better to have a Powerline aluminum radio tray.
ditch the aluminum radio tray, get the F4I TI Brace

[doesgo]

So many things, so little money! I'm planning to get some Kyosho Twin Cap shocks now, since I bent my front-right stock shock shaft. Beyond that, i'm debating between a titanium upper brace and Powerline 4mm chassis. I can't afford both at this time.

Which would be better to do first?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

save your money and use a pair of rc-10 shocks cheap to get and strong, i put 4 shocks in the rear and pair up front haven't had a problem at all. and that frees up money for powerline chasis.......

[doesgo]

Aren't the RC10 shocks a little too short in back? A friend of mine put some on the back of his and I think he mentioned that.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

they are 1/4 inch shorter but the nmt sits low in the rear anyways that all you do is adjust collar for ride hieght anyways i have been racing with this set-up for sept. and oct. never had anymore problems with the shock caps blowing apart. and saved some money because i had 4 of them of and old rc-10 truck and lhs had another pair while i was racing and broke my hpi's again while leading the a main gave them to me for 10 bucks and never had a problem again. plus losi spring and ass. springs are lot easier to come by and they all fit perfectly. they are the goldish grey color ones.

[doesgo]

I've got a full set on an old RC10T I could try, I could even swap the HPIs back onto the RC10T since I rarely use it.

I just got some HPI blue (firm) springs for my NMT for better jumping (landing)....those won't fit the Kyosho or AE shocks?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

i think they will fit the ae shocks you might have to put the lower spring perch from the hpi units on the ae shocks i believe thats what i did the should fit the shafts. i no the don't work on twin caps.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

for some reason the yyyy is working a the time on this keyboard sorry.............................

[doesgo]

Definitely worth a try, and the AE shocks need rebuilding anyway, so now's a good time to give it a shot.

Thanks.

[Mossdog]

Well it looks like the activity here is at an all time low....slinks off to another forum for some NMT activity....:eek:

[doesgo]

Most forums are pretty slow these days it seems. Even e-mail lists. Makes for a boring day at work!

[rc/guitarman69]

Well i got just got a NMT racer. What are some good hopups for it? Iam just going to be useing it for bashing and mybe some runs at the track. Like what shocks are good the stock ones arent to good to me! Just let me know ! Thanks!

[LearjetMinako]

For Doesgo:

You said you have a 125cc fuel tank in your NMT. I'd like to know if you did any mod. to your truck to get it to fit and who makes them?

[doesgo]

I said that? If I did, I severely misspoke! I WANT to put a 125cc tank in my NMT, and I've heard people have put ONFA 1/8-scale buggy tanks in their NMTs, but I don't know how.

Seems the Savage 160cc tank would be a closer fit (tall and not a very large footprint), but I don't know if either one is really possible. I've got an OFNA 1/8 buggy and an NMT, I should see if I can make it work.

People seem to be having problems with the Savage tanks, however (in their Savages), partially due to the front fuel pickup point and partly due to minimal baffling.

Bruce

[rc/guitarman69]

I have a 125cc tank in my NMT racer. But dont know how to put one in. I bought it used off the net from board member PCC! He put it on. But if you want i guess i can ask him or?

[doesgo]

Where is PCC these days? He used to visit quite a bit, but I haven't seen his name pop up lately.

Do you have any pictures of your 125cc-equipped racer you could post? I'd love to see it, maybe we could figure out what he did to make it fit. OFNA 125cc tanks are less than $10 - money well spent if it works.

Bruce

[LearjetMinako]

its alright, you don't have to ask. I've just been shopping around for a larger fuel tank than the one I got (75cc (stock)). I was also wandering if a the Savage fuel tank will fit. Sure its a lot bigger, but doesn't look like it got bigger in width rather than height.

Dang, when this messages was finished, 3 more replys came up before this one!!!!:eek:

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

www.geocities.com/nmt_racer_boy

my nmt site... you guys like?

[PCC]

Originally posted by doesgo
Where is PCC these days? He used to visit quite a bit, but I haven't seen his name pop up lately.

I'm still around.

On the upper deck you will see that there's an extention that goes around to support the back of the 75cc fuel tank. I cut this off then trimmed the part that I removed. I then mounted the tank to that piece (with a small spacer as the tank is too tall to fit otherwise) then attached it to the standard front mount. I then determined where the rear mount shoud be attached to the chassis, drilled a hole for it, and counter-sunk the hole before reassembling the whole thing. There's enough clearance to the side and behind the tank for everything to fit. How's it look, rc/guitarman69?

[doesgo]

I got to looking at my NMT today and figured that should work out okay if it wasn't too long and didn't hit the spur cover/bearing mount stuff. Good to know it works! I think I'll be doing that soon.

Thanks PCC!

Bruce

[ALJR]

any one interested in a $1600 (thats my cost to build, not my asking price) hpi nmt? i posted it in the for sale area, but didn't get much responce and allot off ppl just asked questions about it. so i figured i would post some info in here. if your interested, just do a search w/ my screen name and im sure you will find the original add....

its a .21 nmt that has a compleat overhaul and lots of NEW aluminum. this truck is loaded and comes with lots of extra/spare parts (many that are new). pretty much a whole nother truck worth of parts. this truck is extreamly fast and isn't for the newbe. i would like to get $500 but would consider any serious/resonable offers. no interested in any trades, sorry. actually, the only trade i would be interested in would be a NIB Savage.

please contact me for more pics and details, but please do a search in the for sale section first. thanks for taking the time to check this out

[rc/guitarman69]

Originally posted by PCC
I'm still around.

On the upper deck you will see that there's an extention that goes around to support the back of the 75cc fuel tank. I cut this off then trimmed the part that I removed. I then mounted the tank to that piece (with a small spacer as the tank is too tall to fit otherwise) then attached it to the standard front mount. I then determined where the rear mount shoud be attached to the chassis, drilled a hole for it, and counter-sunk the hole before reassembling the whole thing. There's enough clearance to the side and behind the tank for everything to fit. How's it look, rc/guitarman69?

Well PCC i didint even know it was a 125 cc tank until you told me. LOL. It looks pretty much stock. Ill try to get pics up for you guys as soon as i can! Thanks@!

[rc/guitarman69]

Hey guys what are some shocks i can put on the Hpi NMT racer? I need to get new shocks. I dont like the stock ones! Let me know! Thanks!

[M16-A2]

Kyosho Twin Caps, probably the best price/durability shock on the market. You can get all 4 for around $45 from Tower.

Use medium in the front and long in the rear.

[rc/guitarman69]

Originally posted by M16-A2
Kyosho Twin Caps, probably the best price/durability shock on the market. You can get all 4 for around $45 from Tower.

Use medium in the front and long in the rear.

Got any other ideas? Would the losi shocks or ae shocks fit?

[Lapster]

I put T-Maxx shocks on. Get the 8 set so you dont always have to change oil.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

AE SHOCKS WORK PERFECT CHECK PREVIOUS PAGE.

[mtracer]

http://web.tampabay.rr.com/mtracer/hpi_nitro_mt_racer.htm

I put a ofna 125cc in my Racer.......

[willt]

Has anyone elses MT been a complete peice of crap? I have had to work on this thing more than run it, I wont even start to describe all the problems but the latest I ve run across in this "High Quality" (BS) truck is that one of the dogbones is shorter than the other 3 and will not stay in place? Has anybody else had all sorts of problems with theirs?

thanks,
Will
HPI S.U.C.K.S.

[doesgo]

No, I've been quite pleased with my NMT and I'm glad I bought it. My only beef is with the less-than-great stock engine. Since I replaced it with a Fantom, I've been very happy with the truck overall. Sure, I've broken (bent) a couple dogbones, broke a couple A-arms, toasted a few spur gears, but considering the abuse I put it through, I'm not down on it at all.

Regarding your post on this forum and your posts on the OFNA 1/8 buggy forum, it seems like you're not having a very good night. Does OFNA S.U.C.K. too?

For the record, I have an OFNA 1/8 buggy which I enjoy very much, but all in all, HPI-ownership is more pleasant than OFNA-ownership. At least the help, support, and parts are out there for HPI. Trying to find stuff for my OFNA is a exercise in frustration.

Bruce
RC R.U.L.E.S.

[M16-A2]

I've personally built 4 NMT's and own 2. I think the truck is pretty sweet and has almost no problems at all! Not to bust on you or anything, but if you're having so many problems it's probably user error and not technical design(cuz I've seen loads of NMT's that all run perfect)

[doesgo]

I'd have to agree with M16 and add to my previous post by saying once I got my stock engine tuned I did enjoy it for some time. I neglected to replace my receiver pack batteries when I should have and had a bad runaway. After that, the engine never ran well. Duh, would have happened to any engine. Operator error all the way.

[ALJR]

willt... have you tried using o-rings in the out-drive cups? i think that is where you are getting your"shorter dogbone" theory from.. double check your manual, this is in there and is easily over looked!

the nmt isn't a monster truck. so it won't be able to crash as well as one. this truck is more of a buggy. technecally its a 4wd stadium truck, and a damn good one at that. expecially when you consider its competiton:) i don't know of another stadium truck (1/10th) that will handle as good as this one! yes the engine is sup-par, but come on, its an engine that comes with it. very few cars/trucks under $400 come with competition race engines...

just my 2 cents....

[LearjetMinako]

I really wouldn't say that NMT is "High Quality" BS!! I personelly enjoy the NMT very much. I don't mind the downtime as I get more fun in building and customizing my vechiles than drivering them. But still its great to see something that you put together work and run. Already I've broken a few (ok maybe not a few) parts here and there, but thats what comes with racing it around the field and at the track. The only real serious problem that I had is that the front suspension arms weren't strong enough. Only took two jumps before they broke at the hinges. Replaced them with Powerline aluminum ones and now it runs like a dream over ever obstacles. But still, this truck will take a lot of beatings, bounces, jumpes, dashes, and crashes, if built and taken care of properly.

[PCC]

Originally posted by willt
...the latest I ve run across in this "High Quality" (BS) truck is that one of the dogbones is shorter than the other 3 and will not stay in place?

The front lower suspension mount puts the front diff slightly off center and the front left (as seen from behind) dogbone will pop out all the time. Nitro Rush outdrives are slightly longer and cost $8 a pair. I'd suggest that you get two sets for both front and rear as these are stronger than even the "HD" ones that HPI sells.

[ALJR]

willt... have you tried using o-rings in the out-drive cups? i think that is where you are getting your"shorter dogbone" theory from.. double check your manual, this is in there and is easily over looked!

the nmt isn't a monster truck. so it won't be able to crash as well as one. this truck is more of a buggy. technecally its a 4wd stadium truck, and a damn good one at that. expecially when you consider its competiton:) i don't know of another stadium truck (1/10th) that will handle as good as this one! yes the engine is sup-par, but come on, its an engine that comes with it. very few cars/trucks under $400 come with competition race engines...

just my 2 cents....

[willt]

Thanks for the reponse from the guy who knows what he talking
about. This truck has really caused me alot of frustration. I have
only run about one tank of gas through the truck with out any
trouble. I like the truck but would like to enjoy it with out having
a poblem every run. It is a shame that I bought a new R/C truck
and am going to have to buy parts in order to make the drive
train stay together. To the guy with the o-ring comment. The
o-rings have been checked. The easy to read parts list was looked at and that is how the short dog bone was dicovered.


Thanks,

[mtracer]

Nitro lot of stuff Cheap$$$
I have a lot of stuff left ...


http://web.tampabay.rr.com/mtracer/hpi_nitro_mt_racer.htm

I also have these left
Powerline Aluminum Steering Nitro RS4 MT
THS Racing Products Tuned Pipe Set HPI RTR-3
Powerline Rear Shocks Nitro RS4 MT
O.S. .15 CV-R w/10C Slide-Valve Carb
DuraTrax Shock Set Front MT
ofna starter box here is a link to it
http://web.tampabay.rr.com/mtracer/new_page_1.htm

The rest is on e-bay

[ALJR]

willt... i have purchased manny sets of dog bones and have never come across a short one. i am in no way calling you a liar, but i personally havent seen it. i know the front center dogbone is about the same length as a wheel dog bone. but its a different color and would be hard to mix-up (unless you are color, i apologise if you are). it is possible you just got a factory defect. in which case you should return it for a new set....

i have gone through my truck so many times and tried allot of different parts (just as most of us in here). so if your having a particullar problem, then let us know... after all, thats what this forum is for :)

i have had the the oppertunity to work on and drive many different nitro cars. and belive me, they all have lil quirks or weaknesses.... nitro cars are a high maintenance hobby, and often times a high dollar hobby as well..... i have about $1600 in to my nmt, well over $1100 into my type ss and just over $1200 in my ntc3..... just ask some of the faster guys at your track how much they have into there cars/trucks, its sickening :(

but back to the point in hand... just post some specific problems your having (avoiding the flam in the process) and i would be happy to help you out, as im sure many other in here will do as well :)

[willt]

I bought a new set of dogbones today and NEW O-RINGS and ive already lost another dogbone. the short dogbone was a different color from the other dogbones, it came that way from the factory. i feel its my right to voice my opinion on them, good or bad! if your so happy with yours, end me one! i shouldnt have to spend over a $100 to get a reliable drivetrain from my NEW truck. maybe if HPI would take a little more time with their RTR kits maybe a beginner in RC trucks wouldnt have the problems were having and could actually enjoy the hobby.

Will

[salito123]

you sound like you have somehting against HPI...

just replace the dogbone and chill out

[KOLOR KRAFT]

i can feel for you dude because i went through all kind off parts before i got mine right.my dog bones would always pop out of the right side all the time also hpi dosn't care either just get the longer rush drives so you don't get aggrevatted.some guys on here don't have problems that is a hard to believe but when you do get right it is awsome. just don't think it should be a beginer truck period because it is high maintence all the time.....

[PCC]

willt, look up HPI's customer support number and call them up with your complaint. You will be pleasantly surprised.

[rc/guitarman69]

Hey guys what header works for the hpi nmt? I got a rc10gt factory team pipe and header and it wont fit! So please tell me what ones fit! Thanks!

[brassmonkey]

This one:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP45&P=7

[rc/guitarman69]

Originally posted by brassmonkey
This one:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP45&P=7

Thanks a lot man! Have a great new year every one!

[PCC]

Originally posted by rc/guitarman69
Hey guys what header works for the hpi nmt? I got a rc10gt factory team pipe and header and it wont fit! So please tell me what ones fit! Thanks!

Hey, I offered to throw in the same manifold that brassmonkey suggested...

[rc/guitarman69]

Originally posted by PCC
Hey, I offered to throw in the same manifold that brassmonkey suggested...

Yea PCC i emailed you. I didnt know i needed that i thought i could use a reg one. So i messed up LOL!

[LearjetMinako]

Is this what happens when you put too much power into the wheels? Never saw this happen before. If possible, are there parts that are strong than the stock that HPI makes. I run currently with a O.S. .15 CV-RX engine, almost all stock truck. And the pic. was my left-rear axle joint. :eek: :(

[PCC]

Unfortunately, the only alternative to the wheel axle you broke would be to upgrade to MIP CVD's and those cannot take much more power than the stock dogbones they replace (and some say that HPI's newer dogbones are stronger than the CVDs).

guitarman, I'll dig it up and send it to you this weekend. Can you email me your address again because I deleted that email after I received confirmation that you received the NMT.

[rc/guitarman69]

You got mail PCC!

[KOLOR KRAFT]

DON;T GET THE CVDS THEY JUST PLAIN SUCK mips doesn't even fit the fronts to short,hpi just plain brake also. save your money and keep useing doggys and the axle.thats what this forum needs is to post broken parts from MT because those off us that race them has piles of parts just like that. thats what i want to see broken parts and the best way to strop it from happening.................

[LearjetMinako]

Alright, I'll stick with the dogbones. They haven't given me any problems, yet! I'll be ordering the following parts from a Local Hobby Shop, if they carry them; if not, towerhobbies, which might cost a tad bit more. And some of these parts were lost in the inaccednt.

1. Z264 Axle Pin
2. Z684 Wheel Lock Nut
3. A549 Axle (Rear)
4. B022 5x11x4mm Ball Bearing
5. 6819 Rubber O-Ring
---------------------------------------------
Non-needed but replacement parts
6. 6122 Body Pin (Med.)

That is a good idea of posting pics. of broken parts on this fourm. Never saw it that way. Maybe we could start posting pics of are broken parts and explain what we did to replace/fix/repair them.
;)

[KOLOR KRAFT]

EXACTLY ....................

[jcnmt]

have you guys seen my nmt?

[brassmonkey]

It would be greatly appreciated if you guys voted here:

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=515

BTW: Those of you who do not know of these forums yet will be pleaseantly suprised... take your time and surf through all the topics, you'll find a vast amout of information a tons of friendly people. I though I Private Messaged some of you guys about this so check you Private Messages too. :)

[NMT4me]

Here's a perfect example of what happens when you try and land an NMT at full throttle off of a big jump. I tried to recover from a bad angle and didn't get off the throttle in time. I guess it could have been worse.

[LearjetMinako]

Neat forum on how its built. I'll be looking through the website tomorrow when I wake up, if I do wake up that is. I've already resigerated. Don't mind if I cannot spell right now, kinda out of it with sleep on the brain. Well got the parts that I need execpt for the most main one, the axle joint. The axle I need is to be 40mm long while the one I got is 38mm and wlobs the wheel when installed. Another thing I have to do tomorrow. At least my LHS will order them for me.

NMT4me: Make sure that you check your dogbones to see if you twisted them. I did the same thing a 1yr back and twisted the left-front donebone. I still drive it with that dogbone, but every once in a while, when too much stress is applied, you'll hear a very high pich metal grinding noise coming from it.

[NMT4me]

I've given the dogbones a look over, and they seem to be .o.k. Surprisingly, I have had zero problems with the dogbones and I've beat the heck out of my MT. These things takes a ton of abuse and keep on rolling.

My only beef with the truck is the front shock tower and the ball studs that come with the kit. I've probably broken 5 or 6 of them (studs). Look's like it's time top upgrade to the titanium ones.

[ktoro]

i have 4 twisted dogbones. i twisted them one yeat ago, i still run on them. i dont get any problems with them.

one side the pins facing up
http://www.geocities.com/kenneth_toro/dogges2.JPG

the other side :(
http://www.geocities.com/kenneth_toro/dogges.JPG

if the pics dont work click here (http://www.geocities.com/kenneth_toro/dog.html)

[Kebv]

yeah, watch out for that .15 CVRx. I have it in my MT with the AE pipe and it really kicks sum ***. I had to get the hardened rear diff after a while too. I recommend you shim the stock one and the hardened one if/when u get it as this will help improve the diff life.

My two rear dogbones have ended up like this. I don't run on these two anymore, but i haven't replaced the new ones (yet). Good luck & enjoy!

[KOLOR KRAFT]

COOL MORE BROKEN PARTS :) :) :) :) LETS SEE MORE........

[brassmonkey]

I see you've registered at the new forums KOLOR KRAFT....:)

[KOLOR KRAFT]

yep really can't find good info anymore since hpi went down it is back but it really sucks now. to bad, this site gives you everything
if you wan't to improve on a mt www.nitrotrucks.com/hpi.htm it is good info for a mt.

[Kebv]

oh, so you'd like to see a pic of my bust 2-speed? i know it says on the can "not for offroad use" .... but i just couldn't resist that BMX track (for about 6 months!!)
It was good, but i believe them now when they say its 4 onroad use only.

[M16-A2]

With all this talk of dogbones I thought I might put a plug in here.

Within the next month I will have dogbones that are made of 303 Stainless Steel and also lengthened 2mm so they won't pop out nearly as often as the stock NMT doggies.

If anyone is interested email me at gimps_2k2@yahoo.com and I'll put you on a mailing list when the parts are ready!(cost as of now is undetermined, but will come shortly)

[NMT4me]

I believe you can also use the stock dogbones from the Nitro Rush. They're longer and stronger than the ones that come with the NMT.

If you want to see some really over the top stuff, dig through this guys site

http://www.kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html

He's got some great ideas for for the NMT

[Hicountry]

I've been following this forum since I bought my truck about three months ago. A lot of good gouge. Some very friendly people minus one maybe two!!
This was my first RC anything and it was a pretty steep learning curve. I've broken a lot of parts, but I now have a good durable truck. Except for my favorite play place which is really rough. I'll list the parts I have added below. I have been very happy with all of the aftermarket parts so far. The lhs could use some more training on the NMT. They are into other things so they are learning from me. That gets expensive quikly.
Later I'll post some of my upgrades and how they are working out. Pics too. Right now it is bed time.

Dodge Body; GPM front A-arms; Duratrax shocks, blue springs, AE 35wt oil; NiMH receiver pack; receiver cover, waterproofed electrics; Dynamite T-maxx header & pipe; .005 off of head gasket; GPM front shock tower; 3rd pull start; Sand Paws on Traxxas wheels; GPM front hubs; Motor savers filter; Dubros fuel filter; Short wheel base; Penquin Carbon fiber brake; Throttle return spring; Locked rear diff; CVD's front and rear; 4 spur gears; 1gal byron's 20%; Boost Bottle; I guess thats it so far.

[NMT4me]

Sounds like a nice ride. How are the GPM front hubs working out for you? Did they take any of the slop out of the steering? I've been considering getting some along with the hub carriers. As I'm sure you know, the NMT has some difficulty in maintaining straight line tracking with the stock steering setup.

I put in the Proline aluminum steering assembly along with some bearings and that helped quite a bit. I still think the hubs and the carrier need to be replaced though. Please post some pics if you get a chance.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

M-16 i no you no everything about these trucks but the hpi black doggys are made from metal nitrade steel wich resits twisting and braking the stainless will definetly bend easier and twist bad may not brake but what good is it if it is bent will not rotate to easy will it. how many stainless hinge pins did you bend NONE i no you truck is perfect and never brakes. now if you are puting plugs in well i have a toolmaker working for me who is trying to make a set of TITANIUM ones that are almost industructable. i ran the stainless idea by him and he said keep the metal ones if anything. the man is 63 years old and he knows metal dude.... we are also coming up with more titanium parts also ,more to come, keep your eyes on E-bay.

[M16-A2]

***

[KOLOR KRAFT]

so when you sell them you will guarentee them also from twisting and bending because i don't think they will brake........

[M16-A2]

Yes there will be a gaurantee with them. I don't plan on selling these dogbones in the annealed steel form. I already have a furnace set up to martensite the steel and make it many times harder than normal 303 would be.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

IN THE STILL FORM you said stainless steel now i am confused are you selling the stainless ones or not, or hardened steel ones like hpi.

[M16-A2]

Sorry Kolor I was reading emails while writing and didn't quite write what I meant.

The two metals I was considering were 303 and A2. If I end up going with A2 the steel will be hardened using a heat treatment.

If I go with 303 a cold working treatment will be used to harden the dogbones.


My knowledge of metallurgy isn't all that extensive, so I keep referring to the info that the machine shops have been sending me. Sorry for the confusion, I should of proofread what I was writing.

[NMT4me]

M16-A2: Not to gang up or anything like that however, I believe that KOLOR KRAFT has you on this one. You mentioned that after heat treating, that the 303 would be plenty strong. This is not the case 303 stainless is not hardenable by heat treating. Infact, heating this material would subject it to hydrogen embrittlement.

The only way to increase the strength is by cold working. If somebody is telling you that they can harden your dogbones by heat treating, they're selling you a load of crap. By nature, stainless steel has a lower tensile strength than Alloy steel. I believe that Alloy steel has a tensile of 135,000 ksi versus 95,000 ksi for stainless. I'd stick with the Alloy steel version. Just my $0.02

[NMT4me]

Sorry M16-A2, I guess I was posting my message at the same time you were. Looks like you got it right. My bad!

[M16-A2]

I would like to stick with A2 as I think it will be stronger after treating, however I worry about its ability to resist rust that will undoubtedly come from running RC.

[NMT4me]

I don't think they'd fair anyworse than the stock dogbones. My preference would be Titanium. Stronger than heck, no problems with corrosion and lighter than the stock units. What could be better?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

i think the hpi ones are harded so making them in stainless wouldn,t be an improvement i don't think.if you make the metal ones why would you try to re-invent the wheel when the origanals are not that bad. but titanium ones would be awsome.

[NMT4me]

KOLOR KRAFT, I'm with you on that! How far along are you in the process of putting out some Titanium units?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

the titanium ones will be here at the end of the month the first prototype versions. also if you make hardened ones you could plate them with the black cadiumn thats what are fictures and jigs come back with. resits rust and looks clean.:)

[KOLOR KRAFT]

sorry for the spelling errors but it is cold up here and been plowing snow all morning we got another 2 1/2 feet last night this wheather sucks.

[NMT4me]

Cool, I'd like to get in line to get a couple of sets from you. For the plating, are you doing a black cad or a black oxide? The only reason I ask is that I would figure that the cad would be much more expensive because most platers don't like to use it anymore because of the toxicity and the fact that it cost's so much to get rid of the byproduct.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

the titanium ones will be natural i was just telling m-16 on the rust issue with steel ones you could go with the black oxide sorry for the mistake.

[NMT4me]

No sweat. I'm sitting here right now replacing the ball cups on my HPI titanium turnbuckles with the RPM units and I'm looking at my dogbones and they are a little bit twisted. I'd love to get my hands on some titanium ones!

[KOLOR KRAFT]

i will keep you informed.....

[NMT4me]

Thank you!!!

[SpoonEK]

Hey wassup guys! I'm new to the hobby and have been reading around the boards on which car to buy. I have to say I'm pretty satisfied with my choice of the MT Racer. (Drove up to Ultimate Hobbies and picked the truck up for$240+tax ) I'm pretty sure that I got a good deal from them after looking around. Hopefully I can pick up a good motor and radio soon.

[gometro333]

This isn't really related to NMT's but I don't wanna look for another thread to post it in. Could anyone tell me how to un-anodize something, then re-anodize it? I'm getting really sick of all of this purple crap from Powerline that everyone is buying, and I want a change. I was thinking of blue or camoflauge.

Oh, and what bodies fit the NMT other than the ones offered by HPI that, yet again, everyone has. I think PROTOform needs to get working on some NMT bodies and forget the T-Maxx ones, because let's face it, NMT's are better. And honestly, who's gonna buy an Excursion body, those things are ugly in full size, who needs a 1/10th scale of it?

So to some up, anodizing, bodies, NMT's are better than T-Maxx's, and Excursions are ugly.

Peace out

-Matt

[Cliff Dropper]

Hey Matt, if you are looking for a body fpr your NMT, The Pro-Line RC10GT bodies fit great.

The shock tower humps line up awesome, and they are very strong.

Only thing I don''t like about the one I got was that it did not have any overspray protection, but I think it was an old body :confused:

Only other thing is you have to cut one side of the body for the exhaust...

Other than that, they fit great, even better than the HPI bodies

[gometro333]

Alright thanks, anyone for anodizing?

[Hicountry]

Hey NMT4me

The truck has been a lot of fun. I almost have it back together again - then pictures.

The hubs work great though I did not get them because of tracking. I replaced them because I replace all the broken plastic with AL. I have never had a problem with straight line stability.

Currently I am shimming up my axles to remove slop. Just finished the diffs. Rebuilding after my last trip to the river. The truck will handle everything but that sand bar!!

Oh and those SS hinge pins that don't bend!!!! try again. Anything can be bent or broken if you play hard enough.

GOMETRO333

Search the net for anodizing. You will find a few home shops. Not for the meek, but "doable". Mine is almost done. Soon I am going to open up a small manufacturing/repair shop so I am building or accuiring all kinds of toys......tools yah thats it....tools.

[NMT4me]

Hicountry,

Sounds like you're putting together a pretty sweet ride. I too considered replacing all the plastic with aluminum however I stopped myself because I believe there needs to be a weak point on the truck. Two things I will not change are the stock control arms and the spur gear.

I would rather shredd a $5.00 plastic spur gear or break a $7.00 plastic control arm than bend a $35.00 control arm. Everything else, aluminum or titanium all the way.

I've beat the heck out of this truck and it keeps coming back for more. I'm putting together a video of all the big jumps, hi speed passes and wallet draining crashes just to kind of document the fun. Should be interesting when done. If the snow would just disappear, it would be much easier to finish. I look forward to seeing your pics.

[Hicountry]

Your going to let snow stop you:confused: I haven't tried it yet, but I will this week.

I just got it all cleaned up and fixed. Pictures will be coming in the next few days. I just figured out how to scan pics. Now I have to figure out how to post them.

As for the spur gear.....I have one of m16's metal gears on the way. Just use the slipper clutch as your "weak Link". The only time I have ever stripped a spur gear is at that sand bar. Everywhere else the plastic one is fine. I am going to beat that sand bar:mad: !!!

The front A-arms are worth the money! I have had some amazing crashes and cartwheels with no problems. The stock parts broke a lot easier. My pins aren't the straightest in the world, but the suspension works.

I spend most of my time racing around my little neighborhood on the road. With nine inch curbs it is easy to destroy a truck.

Right now, as long as nothing really strange happens the truck is pretty durable. It took a long time and a lot of money to get it that way. As far as hobbies go it has not been that expensive. The 1/24th scale track I am building is another story!!

Hicountry out!

[NMT4me]

Hicountry,

I never said that I was gonna let the snow stop me. Check out the pic below. I found a little snow jump with a pretty steep face on it at the school down the street. Got some pretty big air off it. Driving in the snow is fun, but I'd rather be rippin' it up in the dirt.

I have all my electronics balooned, so the snow is no big deal. the only problem is that you have to completely dis-assemble the truck when your done to lube the bearings so they don't rust. I love working on my truck but taking it apart EVERY day is just a pain in the butt.

As far as the steel spur goes, you are probably right on. Throw in a slipper clutch and the problem disappears. As for the A-arms, I'll still think about that one. I've had some pretty horrific crashes and my hinge pins started looking more like boomerangs. The titanium ones did the trick.

[gtbike1561]

Does anyone know how i could fix my old .15FE HPI engine. I won't run anymore and there in no conpression. If you can tell me what to do that would be awsone. Email me at gtbike1561@yahoo.com Thanks i would really like a reply!!

[M16-A2]

If you want to keep the FE you'll need to buy a new piston/sleeve and replace them in your engine. If there are any scratches on your crankshaft you'll need to replace it as well.
P/S set:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNH05

Personally I think the FE is ok for a beginners engine but after you wear it out there isn't much worth in replace the piston/sleeve.
You might want to consider a new engine with a little more power to it:)

[NMT4me]

Here's a walk through on re-building your .15FE:

http://www.hpiracing.com/walkthroughs/engrebuild.htm

M16-A2 is right, the 15FE will cost in the neighborhood of 50.00 to rebuild. If you don't want to drop 150.00 or so on a different motor, consider HPI's engine exchance program. For 99.00, they will take your 15FE off your hands and replace it with a 15SS. The 51SS is not a powerhouse by any means however it still has around 30% more power than the 15FE.

[Hicountry]

NMT4me

Well the pictures are taken. I will get them developed tomorrow. Hopefully posted tomorrow night.

Nice jump!:eek: My best one so far is on a par with that. I play at the local BMX track. Now that I have put about as much air under my truck as I need to see I'm going to try something a little different. Next I am going to try to make the complete course. Both up and down the ramps. I can controll the truck in the air now and using the landing ramps will reduce damage. Besides I like racing better than just jumping. Even if it is only against the clock.

Thanks for the info on HPI's exchange program. I like the .15SS and it would save me about $30.

Hope everyone had a good weekend.

Hicountry out!

[Hicountry]

Hey M16

Noticed you were still here.

Sent the money yesterday. What material is the gear made of?

My lhs is not open until the 8th. I may go down to Seattle Tuesday to get a slipper clutch.

Hicountry out!

[SpoonEK]

Sup people, Just wondering what kinda setup you guys have on your trucks. I want to get an idea of what type of engine (.15 or .12), servo, transmitter and receiver to get for the MT racer that I just started building. I'm lookin' for an all purpose setup whether for bashing or going to the track. Thanks.

[M16-A2]

Originally posted by Hicountry
Hey M16

Noticed you were still here.

Sent the money yesterday. What material is the gear made of?

My lhs is not open until the 8th. I may go down to Seattle Tuesday to get a slipper clutch.

Hicountry out!

The gear is modified from the Duratrax hardened steel 52 tooth spur gear.

[NMT4me]

SpoonEK,

As for the motor for the MT Racer, seems to me that most people go with the OS CV-RX. Plenty of power, ABC construction and eash to tune.

I've been looking for some more power for my MT and I'm leaning toward the Fantom F15R-PS. Same abc construction, 1.25 hp however they have a silicone carbide coating that is supposed to out last the standard chrome plating on ABC motors (can anybody say longer intervals between rebuilds?).

I'm don't have much to offer in the way of electronics so I'll leave that for another member to address.

Hicountry:

I stuck that jump 5 times in a row and on the 6th try at full speed I forgot to get out of the throttle and flipped the truck over backwards and nosed in. Of the 52 teeth on my spur, I lost 23 of them on impact (ouch).

One note about that HPI exchange program though. While you can exchange your 15FE for 99.00, If you pony up the extra 30.00, you can buy a new 15SS from Tower for 130.00 and still have the 15FE for a backup. Just something to think about (another forum member mentioned this a few days back).

[SpoonEK]

coo, thanks for the suggestion. Any other setups? Oh and does anyone know whether the body that comes w/ the racer truck is suppose to copy a Toyota Tundra? I kinda wanna put that or Tacoma body on it.

[Hicountry]

SpoonEK

The body on the RTR and the Racer are a Sudo F-150 body.

NMT4me

I was thinking about keeping my motor, I had the same thought about a spare. I actually do not have any trouble with my FE. Plenty of power and good reliability. I have about five quarts through it now. Funny measuring fuel in such small amounts.

I keep hearing guys talking about the fantom motors. They sound pretty promising. Can you E-mail me a link on the F15R-PS. Maybe I will check it out.

It may sound trivial but the thing I like the most about the FE and standard gearing is the fixed motor mount. I guess I could mill out a one piece mount and bolt it to the same holes.

M16

Thanks for the info.

PCC

You said in an earlier post that the Rush out drives were stronger than the NMTs. Have you actually tried this? I need to build a rear diff and I want to do it right this time.

One last question- I read somewhere that the .15SS piston and sleeve will fit the FE. I know the rod is different. Has anyone tried this?

Hicountry out!

[NMT4me]

Hicountry,

Here's the link for the Fantom motor:

http://www.fantom-motors.com/products/eng.htm

While you're there, take a look at their tuned pipes. They're made out of steel instead of aluminum. I've actually had a Fantom pipe in one hand and a Paris in the other and there is definitely a weight difference. I believe the difference would be minimal when the pipe is mated with a Fantom motor.

As for those Rush outdrives, they are definitely stronger than the MT's. I believe the reason for this is that the MT spreads all of it's power amongst all four wheels while the Rush has all the power going to the rear wheels so they need to be stronger. the Rush outdrives are easy to pick out as they are silver in color while the MT's are black (dark grey or whatever).

My brother in law has a Rush and I help him work on it all the time. Here's a pic of both of our trucks.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

HEY GOMETRO if you are just bashing then maybe you won't bend those stainless pins but you hit doubles and triples racing believe me they bend bad and i have a pile of them. also if you got 1.2 HP that brakes alot off stuff and you want to play with the big boys you have to have parts dude and good ones..

[Hicountry]

Hey NMT4me

If the Rush outdrives are silver.....are they the same as the HD ones for the NMT?

[NMT4me]

Hicountry,

I don't see any difference between the stock Rush outdrives (HPI part # 72133) and the heavy duty ones for the NMT (HPI part # 72213) but HPI has seperate part numbers for each (you can look them up on Tower Hobbies).

Oddly enough, both parts are acceptable for use in the HPI Rally Kits which would lead one to believe that they are universal (go figure). Anyway, I'd stick with the 72213 as that is the part that is designated as the Heavy Duty replacement for the NMT.

Did you get a chance to look at the Fantom engines? If so what was your impression?

[NMT4me]

Actually upon further review, the Rush outdrives look to have a slightly deeper cup on them.

[Hicountry]

I am using the heavy duty NMT outdrives in the rear now. I am not really impressed. They haven't broken yet. They do not have the use on them that the originals did. They are however notching on the drive sides pretty badly....about .032 as best as I can measure it. My originals showed no notching at all.

Hicountry out!

[KOLOR KRAFT]

hey guys the rush drives are a little deeper and stronger only broke one of them racing all year. the hpi heavy duty ones were not that strong either. i have 4 rush drives on there right now and seem to be holding up pretty well. were you guys looking for a good motor check out CRCRACING.COM for a non pullstart .12 i beleive 1.29 hp 5 ports go's like heck it is made by STS check it out .price i think is cheap

[gometro333]

Does anyone know if this header http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP45&P=7 will work with this fantom engine http://www.shopatron.com/product.phtml?product_id=FTM-F015-R&mfg_id=141 ? Thanks

-Matt

[NMT4me]

Hicountry,

You using bones or CVd's? That would suck if the outdrives were notching CVd's!!!

Kolor Kraft,

Thanks for the motor tip! What size/type of motor are you running for racing? .12 or .15 ?

[NMT4me]

Gometro333,

The T-maxx header should work fine with that motor. I think the only thing you might need to do is move the rear shocks to the back of the control arms (if they're not already there) so they don't hit the header when the arms compress.

[M16-A2]

You won't need to move the shocks to the rear. That was only the case when using some engines with the 1st gen NJ Big Tube Header.

When using the Tmaxx bi-header there is plenty of room between the header and rear shocks.

[gometro333]

K thanks. M16, what message board or website have you been posting at, your not as active as you used to be.

[M16-A2]

Actually I've been busy designing a few parts which I'll be having made up soon. I don't post nearly as often any more, mostly because I keep having to answer identical questions time and time again.(just gets old after awhile)

[gometro333]

Hahahaha I think that's mostly from me. Well anyways, I was gonna get the X12T but it is just too expensive, as is the X12 so i decided to go with the previously posted engine. I feel this one will give me a give power boost and I won't have to upgrade my drive train as much as I would if I went with the X12 or X12T. I have one question for anyone and it's just because I am too lazy to get up, but how many teeth does the clutch bell that comes with the Racer have? Thanks.

-Matt

[Hicountry]

NMT4me

I have CVDs. The problem is the CVDs notching the outdrives. They did not do that to the factory ones.

Now as promised some pictures.......I hope!!


Maybe not. My pictures are way to big.

[Hicountry]

Lets try this!

[Hicountry]

The photo shop scratched my negative. Can't wait for my back ordered digital camera!!!

[Hicountry]

The first body

[Hicountry]

Last one for today. Could not forget the Sand Paws. I did not think this thing had enough weight to make them work. Boy was I wrong!!!

[Hicountry]

Well the weather broke so the snow pictures are going to have to wait. In fact I am on vacation so I may take the 4-wheeler out instead.

Have fun!!!!

Hicountry out!

[Hicountry]

Sorry guys tring to learn

[KOLOR KRAFT]

i am running the STS .12 for racing and i also have OS CV-RX .15 for both racing and practice .the big events we have here you have to run a .12 so i don't run that one a lot. usually run the OS the top speed is not there but good alround motor.

[NMT4me]

KOLOR KRAFT,

Thanks for the engine info. By the way, I checked out that CRCRACING.COM. I have one question, how the heck did you find a way to put a Go Kart motor in your NMT? :D

Sorry, couldn't resist! Do you have another link to the STS motor, or did I miss something? Thanks!!

[NMT4me]

Hicountry,

Very nice! Are those the chrome Superstars with the Dirt Paws on them? I had the same fuel filter routed the same way that you do. I was having some fuel delivery problems, so I removed the fuel filter and the problem went away. I checked the filter and it looked o.k. Everytime I spun the truck 180 degrees, STALL. With the filter out, no problems.

Here's a couple shots of my truck. Since these pics were taken, I've added a Powerline aluminum steering assembly (with bearings), GPM stainless steel brake and RPM heavy duty ball cups. Once I have the suspension all sorted out, I'll go ahead an add the power.

[NMT4me]

One more:

[doesgo]

My NMT has the stock chassis, radio tray, and steering. I can buy either the Powerline chassis, F4i upper deck, HPI upper deck, or Powerline aluminum steering setup. I'm a basher through-and-through, no racing whatsoever.

What would you recommend?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

i am sorry i thimk i gave you the wrong address. www.teamcrc.com nice looking truck also.he is the importer for this engine only one in the usa not to many people no about these motors so still really cheap i think under 140.00 for the mod version.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

the grafite upper deck is the way to go for the money.......

[KOLOR KRAFT]

dogo you still have the ofna hyper also .

[NMT4me]

KOLOR KRAFT,

THATS MORE LIKE IT!!!! The Con rods on these motors is a work of art!. Which one of their .12's do you run? How's the low end?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

the STS mt12 non pullstarter is the one i have but i just was there sunday and the pullstart version is coming. these motors just plain rip almost to much power and dependable.

[NMT4me]

Any idea when the Pull start version will be in? I don't really want to buy a starter box and I like the pull start.

[doesgo]

Originally posted by KOLOR KRAFT
dogo you still have the ofna hyper also .

Yeah, still have the GT LX, just filled the center diff with 5000 weight oil and am gonna go bashing with it tomorrow.

Is there an advantage the HPI upper deck has over F4i's titanium one, and vice-versa? They're very similar in cost.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

the owner frank told me sunday that should be here within the next couple of weeks. they are also coming with a .21 for buggys and he see them run at some meeting he said no problem keeping up with my RB WS7 in my ofna i can't wait to see that one. as far as upper decks i personally like the carbon fiber ones i think the ti ones are a little thicker looking to me. not as stong as carbon either look at indy cars..............

[KOLOR KRAFT]

the owner frank told me sunday that should be here within the next couple of weeks. they are also coming with a .21 for buggys and he seem them run at some meeting he said no problem keeping up with my RB WS7 in my ofna i can't wait to see that one. as far as upper decks i personally like the carbon fiber ones i think the ti ones are a little thicker looking to me. not as stong as carbon either look at indy cars..............

[SpoonEK]

Anyone know if the RB concepts x15 will fit right into the MT racer? Should I upgrade the chassis for this engine?

[Hicountry]

NMT4me

I like the fuel tubing around the sting. I am going to do that right now. What did you attach it with? Shoe Goo?

The wheels are Traxxas wheels. The hex is really tight and you have to trim it a little but then they work with both traxxas wheels and HPI. The Traxxas wheels are cheeper, and the only ones my lhs carries. The chrome platting is a little cheaper. They get sand blasted pretty easily.

The only fuel problem I have had so far is the presure line. I read somewhere that you could control your fuel PSI with a length of 10 to 17 inches. When I replaced the stock fuel line I started with 17" and was not getting enough presure. It is now 13" and working fine. You need to be able to feel the presure out the end. At 17" I felt nothing.

My feed line is about 18" including filter and really does make a difference in run time upside down.

I do not have either top deck. I do not think it will matter. I have to deside which one as well. I do not want the AL one because I want to keep my removable electrics. Makes it a lot easier to hose down the truck with brake cleaner and air. It opens more nooks and crannies.

[NMT4me]

Hicountry,

You called it! I used the shoe goo to attach the tubing. I noticed that there was a spot on my pipe that was worn down. The lexan was cutting through the stinger. Not a problem anymore.

I really like those wheels, I'll take a look for them at my LHS.

I'm sure you've seen this article before but incase you haven't, there's some good information at the bottom of the page regarding fuel and pressure line lengths.

http://home.attbi.com/~keubstudios/truck/rccb/pipes/pipes.htm

[Hicountry]

NMT4me

Its not the same article but close. The key to the presure line was to feel the output. When it was smooth it was good enough. Very unscientific, but it is working well. For the feed line. I just used all that was left of the three foot package. I could probably cut 8" to 10"s off, but all it is doing is adding to my fuel capacity.

I love the info on headers and pipes. May have to buy a new setup.

Btw I use heat shield tape (AL tape) on the inside of the body to protect the paint from rubbing on the pipe. It does not stick well, but it stays in place.

Do You know about Shoe Goo on the inside of the body?

[NMT4me]

Hicountry,

Shoe Goo is my best friend. I've been pretty hard on the body that you see in the pictures. I've had to goo the the fender openings, windshield supports, bed rails, etc....

I'm picking up the HPI Dodge Ram body as my next victim. I'm sure it will eventually be covered in goo also. Have you had any experience with the liquid mask when painting? Looks like it might be easier to do intricate designs with the liquid than trying to cut the design out of masking tape.

BTW, have you seen this cool contraption (see pic below and check out link)?

http://www.perrypumps.com/prod02.htm

HPI claims a huge increase in power and you can eliminate the the pressure line from the tank to the pipe.

[DeamonOfTheFire]

Im having trouble with the my o.s. .15 cv-r moving very slitely when land jumps at the track and srtping my spur gear. all of the screws are tight but i can still tilt the motor forward abut 1 to 3 mm with my finger.

any help would be great

[NMT4me]

Deamon,

Even with the screws tight, the motor will still move a bit. It appears that the chassis is flexing. Mine does it too. I was stripping spurs right and left and then somebody pointed out my problem to me.

When I pulled me clutch bell to lube the roller bearing and loctite the pilot shaft, I tightened the screw that holds the clutch bell to the shaft too tight. Basically, I pinched the rollerbearing and did not allow the clutch to do it's job. For the most part, my clutch was always engaged no matter what the rpm.

When I pulled the screw and relubed the bearing, I didn't torque down the screw too tight against the bearing (the clutch bell should be allowed to spin freely).

Since I've made the adjustment, I believe I've only stripped one spur (my fault). Hope it helps.

[gometro333]

Originally posted by SpoonEK
Anyone know if the RB concepts x15 will fit right into the MT racer? Should I upgrade the chassis for this engine?

The X15 will fit but it has crazy power. Infact my friend just got one a couple days ago and he has already broken $50 worth of stuff. With the engine alone at over $200 he has already spent $350 just to use it. The engine it worth it if you have the money. The X12 is also good, i don't have it but M16-A2 does and I bet he can tell you about it.

-Matt

[SpoonEK]

What parts should I upgrade on the truck if I do decide to get a powerful motor. Which parts did your friend have to replace in particular.

[gometro333]

He replaced all teh diff gears with HD gears, went back to dogbones because they are cheaper to replace, and he bought extra spur gears and a slipper clutch. I think thats it, but he was talking about having Ti everything made (he's REALLY rich and his dad custum builds motorcycles so he can afford it and has the resources to do it). But I actually just came back from running with him and he had his old engine in because he was waiting until he had the parts made to use the X15.

If I were you I would just get every Ti or HD drive train part that you can get, and get spares.

-Matt

[SpoonEK]

Thanks. Who makes some good Ti drivetrains and upper plates? I wanna check some out. And about engines, just like in a real car the .15 has more low-mid range power but lacks in the upper rpms while the .12 lacks low range power but screams up top, correct? I'm thinking of getting .15 because the low end torque for offroad.

[PCC]

Originally posted by doesgo
Is there an advantage the HPI upper deck has over F4i's titanium one, and vice-versa? They're very similar in cost.

HPI's deck is lighter. F4i's is stronger, more resistant to breaking (graphite will shatter when it gives out while titanium will flex, if pushed too far, it will bend or break but if flexed a little bit will flex back. The point where you will damage titanium is well beyond the point where you will shatter the graphite). So, chances are, if you crash hard enough to bend the titanium deck you would have shattered the graphite one. More than likely, though, that would be the least of your worries if you can bend the titanium upper deck.

Originally posted by SpoonEK
Anyone know if the RB concepts x15 will fit right into the MT racer? Should I upgrade the chassis for this engine?

Who makes some good Ti drivetrains and upper plates? I wanna check some out. And about engines, just like in a real car the .15 has more low-mid range power but lacks in the upper rpms while the .12 lacks low range power but screams up top, correct? I'm thinking of getting .15 because the low end torque for offroad.

It's not a drop-in fit. You will need a conversion kit to make it work (Wolfpack Radicals (www.wolfpackradicals.com) has one). The 15CVR is a comparable engine that is a drop-in fit as long as you get the standard shaft version.

No one I know makes titanium drivetrain components for the NMT. The best you can do is to make better diffs to handle the power and just replace what breaks from that point on. BTW, the slipper clutch has a problem with handling engines making more than 1HP. If you do decide to get a slipper clutch then you will have to modify a steel spur gear to make it work or else the slipper clutch gets so hot that the plastic spur gear just melts off of the mount. Ask me how I know this...

A .15 race engine will make more torque and horsepower than a .12 race engine (comparing small apples to larger apples here, 12CVR VS 15CVR or 12TR three port VS 15RX or X12 3 port turbo VS X15T).

[SpoonEK]

Ask me how I know this...

I guess what I'm trying to say is why would you wanna go .12 in a truck when you can get a .15 offering more torque which would benefit an offroad vehicle (comparing stock motors). Afterall there's no replacement for displacement.

Thanks for answering those questions tho :D

[SpoonEK]

BTW, the slipper clutch has a problem with handling engines making more than 1HP. If you do decide to get a slipper clutch....

Awww, I just assembled the truck with the slipper clutch. It came with the kit.

By the way, what is the difference between the OS CV-R and RX. I'm kinda still new to this R/C thing and I want to get things straight the first time. Thanks

[doesgo]

The X just means it has a pullstart.

[Hicountry]

NMT4me

I have seen the Perry Pump. I also read some bad things about it in the Nitro Forum. To bad none of the guys bad mouthing it had ever used it. Such is life on the net. It looks like a good idea, I'm just not sure I want to complicate my fuel system yet.

On my first body I did not know the wonders of Shoe Goo and dry wall tape. That body was trashed in the first week. When I built the Dodge body I knew all the week spots and beefed them up. Man this body has been through a lot worse than the other one. Except for the grill sticker it still looks perfect from about two feet away.

Hicountry out!

[doesgo]

Could you please explain the wonders of Shoe Goo and drywall tape? Do you use it to reinforce the weak areas or crack-prone areas before they become a problem?

[Hicountry]

Dry wall tape is a sli