Nitro MT and MT Racer Forum

[brassmonkey]

Hey, uh HIcountry, have you check your private messages lately?

[Mrzoidburg]

Hi Folks,
Long time no visit. What's new in the world of the NMT? I'm dusting off the old MT this weekend for a blast, it's been about 12 months now.
A baby and a new car have taken a toll on my hobbies, fortunately they are all exactly where i left them, NMT, RC10FGT, Micro RS4.
:)

[Hicountry]

Hi Brassmonkey

Yah I received the PM. I'm going to hang out here for a while. But I have been trained well at how to lurk around without being noticed. Maybe not, but I will keep an eye on the other sight.

NMT4me

I tried the fuel tubing around the stinger opening. It would not stick to the fuel line. The guy who cut the ant mast in half and used fuel tubing had a great idea. Easy and done.

Hicountry out!

[NMT4me]

Hicountry,

When I shoo gooed the fuel line to the stinger opening, I also put a bead of CA on the inside of the body and let it run into the goo. Also, the goo needs to set up for a while and get tacky before putting it on the body. The tubing held on for a couple weeks but I've had to replace it once or twice.

[Hicountry]

I think I will just rely on the heat shield tape then. I'm going to a shop today that has a 1/24 indoor track. I'm looking at (driving on) several to make plans for my own. This RC stuff is just too adictive!!!

Hicountry out!

[SpoonEK]

Hey guys, I've decided to try out a .12 Sirio slide and pop into my racer. I was wondering which type I needed to get, threaded or SG? Thanks!

[KOLOR KRAFT]

threaded i don't think the sg shaft will work.

[SpoonEK]

thanks Kolorkraft..... What is the advantage of threaded over SG? Does anyone know of someone with a Sirio in a NMT? I wanna get an idea of what kind of performance I'd get with this engine in the NMT.

[brassmonkey]

Mrzoidburg, you got a private message!

[PCC]

MrZ! What's up? I sold my NMT R, otherwise, I'm here instead of on HPI. DFF is around here, too, mostly in the Savage forums.

[Mrzoidburg]

Thanks brassmonkey,

It's nice to see a few familiar names in here.
:)

[SuperGogeta]

woohooo !!!! this week i will get my new mt racer with the os15cvr !!!! oooo:D :D :cool: :cool: :eek:

[gometro333]

Hey everyone, just checking out what's happening. I just got a whole lot of new stuff for my NMT including Ti shock towers (from F4i Modelsport Racing (http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/) ), Kyosho Twin Caps, Robinson Racing Vented Flywheel, and Powerline Heatsink Engine Mounts (all from Tower Hobbies (http://towerhobbies.com) ). Does anyone have any videos of an NMT like jumping a car or house? I'm in the mood to see some car breaking landings.

-Matt

[one_mean_rc10gt]

Got a question is the NMT a good and durable basher? I di allot of hill climbing and jumping. Just wondering how they are. Thanks

[gometro333]

I jumped mine of a two story house on to pavement and all that happened was the shock popped off. I did the jump what it was entirely stock. Now I have added a lot and plan on doing it again.

-Matt

[Exille]

is it OK to pack the diffs with white automotive grease?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

i would perfer ofna diff fluid 50,000 in front and 30,000 in rear but i have used vaseline it is rather thick and definetly tighten up diff action so it does not slip that much ran three race weeks like that and worked good.

[Exille]

this grease i have is vasoline times 4 heh, its called Sta-Lube super white multipurpose grease doesnt even move when jiggled, works real well though i packed everything with it, went bashing with my friends at the high school today, this thing flys when adjusted right, and mine is still completely stock, pretty durable too, i hit a curb about 3 times on accident and about 3/4 throttle and nothing broke, was raining at the time lucky i didnt fry anything, would balloons work to seal the receiver and the servo batts?, does it matter if the fl wheel has scratches? about all the wheel bearings are shot after that run, are there any stronger ones out there? (just got this MT if you havnt noticed already)

[brassmonkey]

Yeah, but the question is, will the vasiline still be as thick at high rpms. BTW, I think I got my front and rear diffs mixed up when I rebuilt them, I think I have 50,000 in the rear and 30,000 in the front, what can I expect performance wise?


EDIT: aw, crap, I mean 50,000 in the back 30,000 in the front

[NMT4me]

I need to pick your collective brain. I have new batteries in my transmitter, new batteries in the reciever, all the connections are properly plugged in, the crystals are seated and there are no bare or broken wires.

Anybody have any idea why I'm getting ZERO response out of my receiver? There is absolutely nothing happening. No glitch when I turn on the receiver or anything. All I can think of is a bad on/off switch. Am I missing anything?

[Exille]

check the crystal in your radio, check the antenna, open the receiver and check your components, make sure theres no dust or anything in it, ummm check to be sure both crystals are the same frequencies..ill say more when i can think of other problems

[nmtr13]

I just spent 155 bux at tower hobbies.
Traxxas Exhaust Header Blue T-Maxx
Lunsford Racing Titanium Turnbuckle RS4 MT (6)
Associated Shock Oil 40 Weight 1 oz.
Hobbico VoltWatch Receiver Battery Monitor
Pro-Line Road Rage II 2.2 Truck (4)
Powerline Steering Plate Nitro RS4 MT
DuraTrax Bearing 4x8 (2)shoulda got 4 :(
Powerline Aluminum Steering Nitro RS4 MT
HPI SS Monster Wheel Front Black D (2)

I didnt realize until after I ordered the stuff, that i needed 4 bearings:mad: .
I cant wait till moday to get my package.
Now i have to get shocks, shock towers, upper deck, rado tray... everything.

[FTR]

gosh some times i really hate the weekend because i can't order my stuff guess i will have to wait till monday . oh well this is what i am getting


LXRB01 RPM Lower Spring Cups Yellow Associated

1 2.89
LXWC18 HPI Slipper Clutch Set Nitro MT

1 28.99
LXTB51 HPI Titanium Turnbuckle Set Nitro RS4 MT

1 34.99
LXVZ57 Powerline Drive Gear Mount Nitro RS4 MT

1 29.99
LXVZ56 Powerline Steering Plate Nitro RS4 MT

1 11.99
LXDX68 Pro-Line M3 Gladiator 2.2 Truck Tire (2)

1 17.49
LXNK59 Trinity 2-Stage Truck Soft Front/Rear Insert (2)

1 4.29
LXPG80 Trinity Ultra Hard Foam Insert Truck (2)

1 3.89
LXMW78 Pro-Line M3 Blade 2.2 Truck Tire (2)

1 17.49
LXDNC5 RPM Clawz Blue Chrome Wheel Rustler/Stampede Front (2)

2 9.99
LXLZ67 HGI Spring Clamps Alloy Associated/HPI

1 9.49
LXRB07 RPM Heavy Duty Rod Ends Yellow 4-40 (12)

1 4.79
LXT697 Kyosho Brake Set MP-6

1 16.99
Sub-Totals: In-Stock Items: $174.27
Your order contains back-ordered merchandise.
Click here for our back order policy. Back Orders: $28.99
Combined: $203.26

[NMT4me]

Crystals seem to be o.k. Checked the on/off switch wit a volt meter and the switch is working. I've got power going to the receiver, but nothing appears to be coming out. I know that moisture or debris is out because the receiver is ballooned and the end was shrink wrapped.

I haven't got a clue how to check to see if the crystals are working.

[Hicountry]

NMT4me

It seems like you and I treat our trucks about the same, beat but well taken care of.

I have not had any trouble with my receiver yet, but 16 years working on electronics has taught me that you can not beat them up a lot and expect them to last.

If you read voltage to the board below the battery connector on the receiver then a componet in your receiver is toast. May as well buy a better receiver, or the same one as it is perfect for the job. If you do not read the voltage than you have a bad connector, bad batteries, or a broken wire.

I doubt the ant. wire is the problem. I assume your transmitter ant. is inches away from the receiver when you do this.

Hicountry out!

[Hicountry]

NMT4me

I forgot the switch. Plug the battery pack directly into the receiver. If that works then the switch is probably bad.

Don't forget what Exille suggested.

Hicountry out!

[NMT4me]

Hicountry,

You got it, it was the switch. When I plugged the battery pack into the switch, and turned it on, I got a reading on the back side of the switch however, when I plugged it into the receiver, I got nothing.

I plugged the pack directly into the receiver and got a reading. I swapped the on/off switch from an old Futaba and just like that, problem solved. Thanks to you and all who offered up suggestions!

[Hicountry]

NMT4me

Your welcome!

[Exille]

ive heard of people using straight 30wt automotive oil in their diffs, thats all i have access to, would it be ok to use it?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

MAYBE 90 WT.???????

[Exille]

would 90 wt work?

[gometro333]

Putting 90 wt would be do nothing. Your better off just filling it with grease.

[Exille]

well i did pack it with white grease before, that wasnt good though, after the race there was white grease everywhere heh, it oozed out of the diff/bulkhead, so no automotive oils would work? 30 wt, 40 wt, 90 wt? none of them?

[gometro333]

Ok I just said it really wouldn't do anything. A bottle of 30,000wt oil from OFNA is only $9.49 at towerhobbies.com. If you can't spend 10 bux right now then wait. Filling your diffs with oil is not a necessity. Your NMT will not break because you didn't put oil in the diffs. I've had my NMT for more than two years now and I still haven't filled them. I plan on doing it, but it isn't essential. But if you are going to fill the diffs, then go for something like 30,000 or 50,000wt. Some people put 100,000wt in. While others use JB Weld to completely lock the diffs all together (I wouldn't do it, but some do). The oil you use is entirely dependent on what kind of unloading your getting. If you think your is losinga lot of power than you wanna go thicker. If you're not losing much then go thinner (not 90 wt thin). If your not losing any power then skip the whole process and spend 10 bux on something else.

-Matt

[LearjetMinako]

boy, a lot of issue talking about grease in the diff.. I personally don't like putting grease in the diff. but a little helps keep them working correctly. Now for grease to help lock the diff. is something not new to the NMT. A heavy oil/grease is a good way to go for a low budget upgrade, but I would go with ball diff.. At least they can be adjusted by tightening or loosening a screw. HPI sells them for $38.00 US dollars (part #- A958). Towerhobbies.com got them for $33.99 US dollars. With the new powerplant that got installed into my NMT, traction has become an issue with the 2 of the 4 wheels spinning. I'll be upgrade to ball diff. when the bevel diff. give out. :cool:

[Hicountry]

As long as you use O-rings to seal the diff you can put anything you want to into it. What do you want? If you just want to lube them then pack it with wheel bearing grease. If you want to limit the slip then go buy the correct silicone fluid.

I learned this the hard way. I decided I wanted mine locked so I packed it with JB weld. Worked great until a rock jammed one tire and kept it from turning. The other tire could not turn because it was locked to the first one. The result was a stripped ring and pinion.

I have learned alot know about shimming the gears to limit slop. Something I should have noticed on my own. Unless you do not play around gravel and sticks then I would not recomend the JB Weld. Not for pavement either. Way to much oversteer.

Hicountry out!

[JFawwaz]

Can a nitro mt racer take a bashing? I was planning on buying this kit and dropping in my fr15 engine from my rs4 3 (which i hate) but im not so sure anymore after reading this thread. It seems as though the car breaks easily.. Is this true?

[gometro333]

When my NMT Racer was completely stock I jumped it off my two story house on to pavement and all that happened was a shock popped off. Now I have Ti shock towers and better shocks and I plan on doing it again. The NMTR is also good for racing.

-Matt

[KOLOR KRAFT]

like i said earlier maybe 90 wt. i do no 90 is thicker than 30 if this is all you have 90 will slow the diff action down better than 30 that all i said. as for grease it usually just flings auround inside the diff so if you use grease you will not be slowing the diff action down and dosn't do much good exept make a mess if you use grease just use a little to cut down on friction and wear on the gears that is all it is for. i said earlier i have used vaseline and i race this truck it dos slow the action down and sticks to the gears well for friction and lube try it take it apart and you will see it dosn't fling around like grease, or brake down like some people think, this is a tried and true method for a cheap quick fix to slow the action down.ON that note the best possible sticky stuff to use would be ofna or mugens diff fluids lighter in the back because way to much traction in front compared to the rear i personally use ofna 50,000 in the front and 30,000 in the rear i could tell the diference and the feel of the truck with this combo. LIKE I SAID IN A PINCH TRY ANYTHING AND CHECK IT TO SEE IF IT DOES GOOD OR BAD KEPT TRYING COMBINATIONS THATS ALL. i was even going to try honey because that was handy at the time i also didn't want to buy any fluids to see what it would do that why i would try anything to see if you are going in the right direction just don't make the cheap way permanent if you notice the difference with the stuff you have lying around then make a choice and buy regular diff fliud...:)

[nmtr13]

My new rims wont go onto my mt. It didnt come with any adaptor for it either. If they are HPI wheels why aret they a direct fit?

[Hicountry]

HPI makes wheels for AE and others also. If they are front wheels for a 2wd they will not fit. I do not belive there are adaptors for that.

[nmtr13]

yea ur rite they are front. damn! wat am i suppose to do with them?/

[Hicountry]

Can a NMT take bashing well?

Yes and No.

Because of the amount of front kick up the front suspension does not absorb abuse like a RC10 or XXXNT. A-arms break more often. Thats why some of us have gone to AL.

There are many building "SECRETS" that make the truck and body more durable. Find every one you can and use them.

The front uprights and hubs would be the next to break. Again only 7 to 10 degrees of kick up instead of 30 is what causes these parts to break.

I guess now that I try to put it on paper that is really the trucks only failing and I understand that it has to be that way to make a 4wd handle correctly.

Stay away from curbs and you will be fine. If you do not want to spend any money fixing things then take a lot of time, build it slowly and use every trick you can find to make it more durable.

[LearjetMinako]

A little game to keep some of us busy while our cars are down.

zipzaps (http://www.shockwave.com/sw/content/zipzaps)

:D

[Hicountry]

nmtr13

Take the wheels back to where you bought them. They will fix the problem.

If it was mail order or whatever then take them to some races. DON'T mess them up. Leave them packaged and you will probably get what you payed for them. At least it would not be a total loss.

[nmtr13]

I got them from tower hobbies and i dont have any races near me.

[Hicountry]

nmtr13

Well then you can talk to Tower Hobbies. The wheels probably cost about ten bucks. If they made the mistake then they should handle it at their cost. If you made the mistake then you will have to pay a couple of dollars to send them back. It may not be worth it.

Save them, if you grow in the hobby then you will use them. Maybe someone on the board will buy them.

[JFawwaz]

Originally posted by Hicountry
Can a NMT take bashing well?

Yes and No.

Because of the amount of front kick up the front suspension does not absorb abuse like a RC10 or XXXNT. A-arms break more often. Thats why some of us have gone to AL.

There are many building "SECRETS" that make the truck and body more durable. Find every one you can and use them.

The front uprights and hubs would be the next to break. Again only 7 to 10 degrees of kick up instead of 30 is what causes these parts to break.

I guess now that I try to put it on paper that is really the trucks only failing and I understand that it has to be that way to make a 4wd handle correctly.

Stay away from curbs and you will be fine. If you do not want to spend any money fixing things then take a lot of time, build it slowly and use every trick you can find to make it more durable.

so what are the secrets to make this truck more durable. Can i buy a chassis with more kickup?

[Hicountry]

JFawwaz

As far as the kick up, well I guess anything can be made. Nothing is comercially available right now. As I understand it, it is all a part of steering geometry and drivetrain binding. In otherwords you may not like the effect of increasing the kick up.

As for durability......start at page one and read until you are cross eyed. Then read again. Everyone here is teaching from expierience. The two books that I used were Power Tuning and Painting &Detailing available at your lhs or www.rcstore.com

Remember that just because it is on the net does not make it true. That is what is nice about this forum. If someone is full of crap twenty people will tell you so. Someone will eventually come up with proof and then you will know how to go.

Hicountry out!

[Exille]

Well i just wrecked my stock body by getting it wedged under a cyclone fence, got cracked in half, are there any aftermarket bodies that will fit the NMT? i dont really like the standard HPI ones much..

[AllenJO]

Proline makes a bunch but my experience is that they are short on decals. I don't think that any body will survive running it at speed into/under a fence. Suggestion: buy yourself a tube of Shoe-go, and use it to re-inforce or repair bodies. Incredible stuff.

[SpoonEK]

Where can you get shoe-goo, 'cause they don't have them at Home Depot or Target. Where? Which common shoe store?

[mercenario27]

I recieved a Mt roller on a trade. I planed on doing a .21 conversion. Does some one make a steel spur gear. what are some other NMT hop-up companys out there. Could I also so get some URLs for some NMT pages. SS R/C Racing (http://www.ssrcracing.com) offered to make me an exended chassis and extended upper deck for the NMT. I need a engine mount, flywheel, clutchbell, and clucth shoes so I planned on getting the New Era .21 kit.

[gometro333]

Go to Kedars RC Den (http://www.kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html) he did a .21 conversion and he shows you how and what you need. He also has some other pretty cool stuff.

-Matt

[NMT4me]

mercenario27,

Here's a link to the metal spur gear and also to some good nmt hop up parts:

Spur:
http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/MetalSpur_Page.htm

Hop ups:
http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/catalog2.cgi?make=HPI%20Nitro&car_id=10&abbreviation_show=gpm

Nitro MT links:
http://www.mossdog.freeservers.com/
http://www.kmicomputers.com/nmt/photo.htm
http://nitromt.iwarp.com/index.htm

Enjoy!

[M16-A2]

Merc,
Just wanted to let you know that I make those metal gears that NMT4me posted the link to(that is my site as well:))
If you want one email me at gimps_2k2@yahoo.com and we'll work out the details!

[SuperGogeta]

is it normal to have the flywheel runnin close to the brake disk ?

[gometro333]

Yeah, actually because of the chassis flex, my flywheel would touch the brake disk on a landing. But it won't usually stall it because they are spinning in opposite directions.

-Matt

[SuperGogeta]

thks man cant wait for it 2 stop rainin so il go out drivin

[brassmonkey]

aaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! The unofficial HPI forums are down!!! aaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!


BTW: crap, I've been hacked now, anyone know some good anti hacker stuff?

[gometro333]

I just got the Ti shock towers from F4i Modelsport Racing (http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/) . They not only look incredible but they are SOOOO much stronger than the stock or aluminum towers. Everyone should go to the above sight and buy stuff because the guy who runs it will make anything people request (if enough people request) but he needs to have people buy. They also came in 5 days with a shipping cost of 6 bux. That order went all the way across the country. Everyone buy from there. Pics coming soon.

-Matt

[M16-A2]

brass:
Look into Swat It, it's a free trojan detection and removal program. 9 chances out of 10 are the hacker uses a simple backdoor trojan to get into your system and this program can detect and remove it!

[Godspeed]

Hey gometro333, the link you provided doesn't seem to be working...it says coming soon when i click on it. Can i have the URL to it ?

Cheers. :)

[NitroMT]

What flywheel should I use for a O.S 15 CV-R?

[SuperGogeta]

u got the racer or normal kit ?
i got the racer and i use the one that came with it:D

[NitroMT]

I got the rtr

[gometro333]

http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/ Thats the one I use. I could have mistyped it last time. Buy stuff there.

-Matt

[Hicountry]

Hey M16,

I installed the gear today and ran it. Had to fit the prongs to the clutch. The only thing that went wrong was that I did not listen to you. I did not buy a hardend pinion. After nine tanks of fuel it stripped. NINE tanks of fuel!! That is the most I have ever been able to go without a breakage of some sort. Thanks again for the part.

[M16-A2]

You mean the clutchbell stripped? I do recommend you go with a hardened clutchbell like the Duratrax ones listed on my site:
http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/MetalSpur_Page.htm

I've run countless gallons on the Duratrax bells and a metal spur without much sign of wear and no stripping:)

[Hicountry]

Yes I stripped the clutch bell. It was fun though. I am looking for a hardened bell now, but it has to be 12t. I really like using the non adjustable motor mounts. I guess if I was not so busy I could mill up a cradle for the motor.

Thanks again for the gear. It works great.

[M16-A2]

Glad to hear you like it! I guess popularity of these gears is really picking up, I've had about 8 emails for them in the last 2 days. Might even have to start devoting hours a day just to making gears lol :D

[FTR]

m-16 when can i get a gear i need one

[M16-A2]

I've got 8 of them sitting here, email me at gimps_2k2@yahoo.com

[NMT4me]

M16-A2,

Check your private messages.

[Hicountry]

I just installed an Onfa 12t clutch bell with the MIP/HPI clutch. I had to lap .050 off the back of the bell. It is a little bigger( a few thou) and the gear dia. is a little smaller( again a few thou) but it worked perfectly. I prefer to use the non-adj mounts on the .15FE. With the difference in gear size I might be able to go to a 13t. Time to take some measurements.

I did not realize how crappy my clutch had become. It took a while to readj. the carb. It really was amazing to watch my .15FE spin the tires.

I sealed my diffs with o-rings (Onfa Blue). Then I filled it with Onfa 50K silicone fluid. Maybe a little much in the rear, but it works pretty well.

Those springs that HPI sells to put tension on the spider gears to limit slip? They seem to work. At least a little. Not enough to justify the cost, but I had a rear shock spring sitting around for a 1/24 car. Same size and really stiff. For free it was worth trying.

Have fun

Hicountry out!

[default_uzer]

Hello,

I have a few questions about my Nitro MT. What is a good shock set up for the MT to reduce bounce if you are running with the stock shocks? Is it worth upgrading to the f/r super shock set? or are there better shocks that will work on it? Also will the Proline Chevy Silverado Body made for the Traxxas Stampede work on my MT? Thankz!!:confused:

[default_uzer]

Oh ya, I had one more question! I installed the slipper cluch on my MT, set it up how the directions said to do, what am I suppse to be noticing different then when it was not installed?

[mercenario27]

What ever happened to the HPI Forums. It seems a little stream-lined.

Where else can I find MT forms other than here and ****.

I'm working with SS R/C Racing (http://www.ssrcracing.com) on making a .21 conversion for the MT. It will include a new chassis, aluminum upper tray, motor mounts. look for it this spring.

[gometro333]

default_uzer, I use the Kyosho Twin Caps Pro with blue springs all around. They have been doing a great job compared to the stock ones which would ooze oil out everytime I took it off the stand. The slipper clutch will simply reduce the number of stripped spur gears. I don't know how it all works but thats what is does.

-Matt

[default_uzer]

gometro333, thanks for the info! Are the Kyosho shocks a direct fit, and where is the best place to buy them? Thankz!

[KOLOR KRAFT]

best place to buy them shocks are tower they are good shocks but i have a set of ae shocks a lot cheaper and work just as good. you can pick-up a used set on e-bay cheap and springs are readily available for ae shocks. MERCENARIO we are making a hpi chasis stock length to accept the .21 out of titanium should have fist prototype here friday and it looks awsome. over 4mm thick going to be able to except both stock motor with pull start or without also .21 to really make it quick. we also have shock towers and upper decks removable and non removable, front steering braces,and wait to you see the dogbones are really strong all my parts are made here in AMERICA. if anybody has a sugestion for other parts my ears are open. and remember all parts are TITANIUM only.

[gometro333]

Do you have a website where I can see all this stuff?

-Matt

[default_uzer]

Thanks for the info KOLOR KRAFT. I checked out your web site, and see you got the RC section under construction. Will your parts be available through your web site or by mail order or both? I live in Iowa so NY is a major trip for me!! That is why I am asking!
:)

[KOLOR KRAFT]

they will be available thru phone orders or through pay-pal most shipping charges should be auround 4 bucks any where in the USA only. working on a deal for a big supplier to purchase the ti parts and we are real close to that deal but i still will sell direct also... thanks for looking and glad the info i gave you was good. if there is any othert parts that should be made bring it to my attention and we can see what i can do. we are also doing shock towers for ofna's and been working on savage parts.

[default_uzer]

KOLOR KRAFT, Since you said you are crafting parts for OFNA also, I am not sure which vehicles you are in the market of crafting parts for in the OFNA line? But I am a major Monster Pirate fan, I own one also. Do you think you guys could design a fuel tank brace for it or some type of a mount? The tank just kind of hangs there, and is not too stable! I hear fellow MP owners talk of this also! Again thanks for your wisdom!

[metal gear]

if you are looking into a stadium truck with .21 power, everyone should check out the OFNA Pirate 10 truck. It is RTR w/ .21 Hyper engine for around $300.00. Check out OFNA's homepage at www.ofna.com for more details. I have one and it kicks ass. It is all time 4 wheel drive but could easily be converted to 2 wheel drive. This thing is very sturdy coming stock. The only part I have had to replace so far is the plastic spur gear. I ordered a metal one and it is on its way. You also have the option with locking the center diff for equal distribution of power to all four wheels. Make sure you have plenty of open space, 'cause.....this thing gets from one place to another in no time. :D

[M16-A2]

Check this auction out!

Ebay Item #3110150335

[LearjetMinako]

%$#%$@$@%#$^@$@#$^@%$#%$^T%

THATS JUST NUTS, the bid just starting at 25 cents. WOW, I almost want to place a bid on it.:eek:

[AllenJO]

RE Slipper clutch,

The stock setting of 1/2 turn out is way too loose IMHO. I run mine between 1/6 and 1/8 turn out with no ill effects and that's with a Picco .15. If you're running a .21 engine maybe 1/2 turn would be necessary, but if you're running one of those anemic HPI .15 FEs then a slipper clutch is probably a waste of money (unless you hit things alot). It does provide one other advantage: to use spur gears other than the stock 52 tooth. The slipper clutch allows you to use any spur gear designed for use for the HPI 2-speed with one caviat -- if you go much below 49 tooth you'll likely have to rework the engine mounting holes in your chassis in order to get a proper gear mesh.

[default_uzer]

AllenJO,

Thanks for the slipper clutch info! And yes I am using a .15FE. So if it is such a crappy engine, what is a good .15 that is a direct it for the MT? Thankz!

[gometro333]

M16-A2, WHY THE F*** ARE YOU SELLING YOUR TRUCK!!!??? THAT TRUCK WAS (OR THIS IS THE IMPRESSION THAT I GOT) YOUR PRIDE AND JOY!!!! HOW COULD YOU DO IT???

-Matt

[LearjetMinako]

Didn't know that was M-16 nmt truck, oh well, nice looking truck.

Almost any .15/.12 size engine is a direct a fit into the HPI NMT. Just requires a engine mount to make it fit.

Aluminum= regular (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN373&P=7)
Purple Aluminum=Purple Mount (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLR3&P=7)

[SleepyGMan]

M16-A2,

Gometro has a good question. Why is the apparent "resident expert", who seems to know more about the NMT than anyone else on this thread, getting rid of his truck?

[NMT4me]

M16-A2,

I gotta jump on the bandwagon with everybody else here. You got some splainin' to do! Why are you getting rid of such a nice truck (as if it's any of our business!). It's gotta be tough to see it go.

[M16-A2]

Rest assured the truck isn't going anywhere. (unless the bid goes slightly over $1000) I will not let it go for anything less than half of what I have into it, so chances are it's staying right here with me.

The main purpose was to get an approximate value on what I could expect.

[mtracer]

Good luck on the auction.....

I got 350.00 for mine... Stock MT Racer with a used Hyper.15
Had over 1000.00 invested in mine, I had no bids so I parted it out and sold my TI shock towers and powerline goodies seperate...
I got what I wanted for it after I sold it all seperatley....
So my Racer is now in Australia and Im buzzing around with a New Ofna Hyper 7 Pro with a 8 port hypey .21

anyone want this user name, Im getting a new one. (hyperactive)

Item # 3102653811
http://**************/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=3102653811

[AllenJO]

Default_uzer,

"Crappy" is a bit too strong. It's just that the FE has a single-needle carb and only puts out a little more than 1/2 hp. Most of the .12 and .15 engines that you see other posters talking about put out between 3/4 and 1 1/4 HP, and the .21 engines put out twice that. Thus my "anemic" comment.

Just about any .12 or .15 long shaft, side-exhaust engine will fit. You'll need HPI's engine mounts to use another engine, but that's what those other 6 screw holes (actually the last 4 of the 6) in your chassis are for. You may need a new flywheel and may have to change throttle linkages depending on what type of carb you get.

A rear-exhaust engine will work, too, but it can be a tight fit. Not for the engine itself (you'd mount it the very same as a side-exhaust), but the exhaust header; there's not alot of room between the engine and the rear shock tower, so you have to show care in what header you buy. All the more so if you want to keep using a pull-start. But if you want to continue using your current header and pipe, stick with a side exhaust.

As for which engine, there's lots of 1+HP engines on the market. I have a Picco, but O.S., Fantom, Megatech also have alot of fans. That new Traxxas 2.5 is also getting rave reviews. HPI's .12SS and .15SS are good, too. When your FE is shot, you can ship it back to HPI with $99 and get a .15SS. But if you shop around, you can find other engines for the same amount or not much more.

[default_uzer]

AllenJO,

OK, I see what you mean now! It is a good stock engine for beginners. And once its shot I can buy pretty much any .15 or .12 wether it is O.S., phantom, traxxas, ect, but just keep in mind, if I want to stay with a rotary carb, and not have to change the linkage, get an engine with a rotary carb. I also need to make sure it has a long shaft? Is that a SG shaft or the standard shaft? I also need to get the HPI engine mounts as well right? No matter what engine? As far as the fly wheel I can figure that out. Willl the new fly wheel have an effect on the engine placement as far as the mesh setting?

Thankz!

[SpoonEK]

AllenJO,

Hey man, how are you likin' your Picco motor? I just broke in a xp-15 for my Racer and this mutha just rips (comin from a noob). I'm trying to get an idea how it stacks up to the other engines you've run/seen.

[salito123]

whats up guys?
quick question

I converted my MT to .21 and i am interested in putting in a 2 speed, no the question is, can i use a 2 speed with a slipper clutch? i am interested in installing something one or the other, one that will afford some sort of protection from the more powerful engine, I'm running a ofna hyper 4 port engine right now, so far so good

[brassmonkey1234]

You're better off with the wolfpack 2 speed (http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/html/shaft_2_speed.html)

[Hicountry]

My FE has decided to quit working. It has good power to the plug. The plug glows just like it is supposed to. I tried a new one anyway. The engine has 1.5 gals through it.

I have not tried a second glow charger, but I have used a second battery. The charger has a meter. Kinda hokie but it reads good. It also reads bad when you put in a dead battery.

I noticed something wierd. I assumed I was not priming it enough. Prime it some more and it would start. Now if I intentionally hydrolock it it will start. Its hard, but it will start.

It runs great once it starts. I also put in a new clutch so I may be fooling myself.

It seems to have good compression, but I may not have noticed it falling off. I just can not believe that after 1.5 gals it is worn out.

Any ideas?

[AllenJO]

Hicountry,

It sounds like your carb settings may be too lean. If you pump fuel to it and it starts and then dies, especially when you hit the throttle, it's usually a sign that you're running too lean.

SpoonEK,

I love my Picco .15. Had it for almost a year. Powerful and reliable, and easy to tune. My observation is that perhaps it has more high-end speed than low-end torque. Best compliment that I can pay an engine: when it's shot I'll either rebuild it or buy another Picco.

Default_uzer:

You can use either rotary or slide carbs. With a slide carb you'll probably just have to get a different throttle linkage. But you may have to do that with another engine with a rotary carb. Your local hobby shop would have all the parts that you'd need to make the switch (whichever). You do need an engine with a long crankshaft, not a short crankshaft (and I believe you're right that the short shaft is referred to as SG, but check). Don't recall if I mentioned it, but there's a good chance that you'll also need to purchase another flywheel no matter what engine you purchase (except for another FE).

[NMT4me]

Kolor Kraft,

Check your P.M.

[default_uzer]

Hey AllenJo,

So if Ineed a new flywheel, Does it have to be a flywheel made by the manufacturer? or some other name brand? If so any that you recomend? Again thanks for your tips, you have been a wealth of info!

[AllenJO]

HPI does make a lightweight flywheel -- actually 2, 1 for pull-start engines and 1 for bump-start engines -- but other companies make them, too. Powerline is one. Sizes can vary a little depending on whether it was designed for a pull-start or bump-start engine (latter is sometimes smaller in diameter), also number of mounting posts for clutch shoes can vary (usually 2 or three posts; HPI's stock clutch is a 2-shoe). Some even are milled/cast with little fan blades, presumably to aid in engine cooling, or are annodized (colored). I would imagine that you could use any designed for a .12/.15 engine; just make sure that you get one with the correct number of posts for your type of clutch.

Two biggest issues in installing a new flywheel is getting it seated tightly against it's collet so that it doesn't spin separatetly from the crankshaft, and making sure that it doesn't rub against the brake rotor (the flywheel and brake rotor overlap with only millimeters between the 2).

Another comment: to get the most out of your FE or a new engine, get HPI's racing clutch.

[Godspeed]

Hey guys, I encountered this problem while i was bashing around my backyard. This part A473(6) or the upper arm set (according to the back page of the manual) that connects the upright set (A460) and the front shock tower keeps popping out and causes the front dogbone of my NMT to fall out too. I am still quite a newbie with my NMT and will like to find out what option parts to get to solve this problem. Thanks a lot in advance. :)

[default_uzer]

AllenJo,

Thank you for the info! And I am using the HPI racing clutch on my FE. I also have the power line vented flywheel installed also! So I should be able to use it on the new engine I purchase! Thankz!

[NMT4me]

Godspeed,

Replace the stock plastic parts with an adjustable set like HPI's titanium turnbuckle set # 72094:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTB51&P=7

Or

Lunsford racing titanium turnbuckle set # 2182:

http://www.lunsfordracing.com/ORturn.htm

I added the HPI set and used RPM heavy duty ball cups and haven't had one pop off yet. The RPM cups fit really tight and also help take some slop out of the steering.

[M16-A2]

In addition to NMT4ME post, I have found that using Ti 4-40 ball links adds loads of durability over the stock HPI 4-40 ball links.
You can outfit your truck for about $25 and never worry about break another ball end:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXEY50

[Paul_D]

to add to what NMT4me said, I replaced my fixed links with HPI's Ti turnbuckle set and some RPM HD ball cups and haven't had one pop off since - over a year now. There a bit pricy if your on a budget, but the aggravation they save is worth it.

[Godspeed]

Yo Guys, thanks for the advice..really appreciate the help. :) I will get myself the Hpi titanium turnbuckle set and some RPM ball cups. Cheers.

[Mossdog]

Hello all, I havent been around for a while! Glad to see that there is some momentum here again, thanks for the heads-up NMT4me! Anyways if you care to see lots of pics of NMT's check out my site www.mossdog.freeservers.com :cool:


Oh ya I got HG Ti ballends, HPI Ti turnbuckles and RPM cups as well and since I have never had one pop-off or break! I think that they are well worth the investment! (and they look good too!:D )

[NMT4me]

Mossdog,

Glad to see you came to visit! There is a good bunch of NMT guys in here and they're all very helpful. I'm sure your inisight will make this forum that much better. Welcome back!

[salito123]

I need help. I purchased the gpm front aluminum uprights, but whne i tighten the wheel, it gets really tight, it says to shim it an di have the shims, but i have no idea where the shims go.
any suggestions will be really appreciated, i have my truck looking sweet and axcept for that damn ofna hyper pullstart, everything else is looking good, if you have any thoughs, please reply, thanks

[NMT4me]

salito123,

I'm a little foggy on the Aluminum uprights. Did you replace the front hubs?

[Mossdog]

Unfortunately I have no experience with the GPM parts, by uprights what do you mean? The C hubs? The steering knuckles?

[Mossdog]

Unfortunately I have no experience with the GPM parts, by uprights what do you mean? The C hubs? The steering knuckles? Does the wheel hub rub against the knuckle/bearing?

[salito123]

sorry guys, i worded it wrong, i replaced both the uprights and the c hubs, the problem is when i tighten the nut, the wheel gets xetremely tight, i am wondering what may be the problem since it only happens on one side, any help will be appreciated, thanks

[NMT4me]

This may sound like a stupid question, but did you remember to put the pin p/n (z624) that the hex adapter grabs onto back in the axle and the washer (p/n 6125) on the wheel before you tightened the nut down?

[salito123]

yup

[salito123]

This is a pic about 1 month ago, since than i have upgraded to titanium shock towers, and if you notice my busted rear shock i need new ones, which one do you guys recommend and at the best price, this is already upgraded to a hyper 21, the engine is great, but the pull start sucks hard, i hate it, this pullstart will not ratract unless i fool with it, i will be taking it apart today to see, anyway, suggestions, commenst welcomed

[NMT4me]

Have you checked to see if both bearings are completely seated in the hub? Also, with the wheel off and the pin in the axle, does the pin ride on the center bearing flange?

[salito123]

i will check all that later i can't honestly answer any of them right now

[NMT4me]

Here's some shocks you may want to check out:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ60&P=M

[M16-A2]

The best shocks to get are the Kyosho Twin Cap Pros. You can get all 4 for only $45 and so far they have be absolutely indestructible for me!

Front:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSC41&P=7

Rear:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSC42&P=7

[one_mean_rc10gt]

I am looking into buying a new Nitro MT. What are the weak links of the MT? What should I replace right away for bashing/jumping durability? I would like to keep it pretty much stock, but I also want to run it without breaking parts every tank or fuel.


Thanks.

P.S. Maybe some of you guys/gals could make a top 10 or 15 list of items to replace.

[LearjetMinako]

Things that I had to replace/ repair / upgrade. (Just my 2 cents)
1. Front suspension arms/ upgrade/ RPM aluminum suspension arms.
2. Increased length on the fuel tubing to 2ft.
3. Added a fuel filter
4. O.S. .15 CV-RX engine
5. Stock rear axle/ replaced / with stock rear axle (still haven't got that part in. whats taking soo long.)
6. Add a 1.5 ft long raditor tubing over the exhuast. (to prevent oil from drip drying every where on itself, now it spits out in the rear of the car.)
7. Stock shock towers (may need to be replaced if they start cracking, I know I need some new ones.)

The NMT will give some problems, but that is what comes with a nitro truck. All problems I have occured were simple ones. The only thing that is increasing my downtime is for that d*** axle part to come in. I'd wish he would hurry it up some, its been a month now since I order.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

the 15 fe won't last long maybe i gallon:( :(
1-extra set of plastic front and rear arms
2-set of front c-hubs
3-2 sets of dog bones
4-spur gear
5-bushings and the screws in the c-hubs
6-4mm lock nuts for the wheels
7-front and rear shock tower tree
8-diff out drive cups (the rush ones) front and rears
that should keep you running for a while untill you ugrade so stuff.
UPGRADES
1-os 15 cv-rk rotary carb
2 titanium shock towers
3 titanium chasis and upper deck
4 rpm ball cups
5 titanium tie rods and hige pins
6 fantom raw steel pipe (awsome)
7 motor saver air cleaner
8 better shocks or make re-bound straps to hold them together out of tie straps.
9 slipper clutsch and steel spur gear/ with harden clutch bell
10 bearings in the clutch bell and hpi racing clutch cut to second hole
11 tires what ever you run on
12-the ultimate motor would be STS .12 mod but you need a starter box but almost 1.3 hp awsome power then upgrade the diffs with harded gears and offna fluids. i no i forgot something but other than that it will be a good 4 wheel drive truck and take a beatin have fun:)

[KOLOR KRAFT]

LEARJET what akle do you need i have a bunch of used stuff i can't believe it takes that long for you to get parts??????

[SleepyGMan]

Learjet,

Why did you increase the length of the fuel tubing?

Anyone,

Why do you need to cut off the end of the clutch shoe when you go to the second hole? Will it work if you put it on the second hole, but leave the first intact?

Thanks.

[M16-A2]

By cutting off part of the clutch shoe you increase the RPM that the clutch will engage at. Most people go to the second hole and remove the portion back to the first hole.

[LearjetMinako]

Well, I'm finally happy for getting the part in. I already got it installed and ready to go in the morning. Reason why I increased fuel tubing lenght is that it gave a more realible idle to the .15 FE, when the truck flips, I'm able to get to it in time before it dies. I found out the reason why it took soo long for the part to come in. It came in about 5 days after I order it, but his wife, that works there too, missed placed it. He found it 2 days ago, but forgot to call me to tell me that it was in, but luckey enough that I'd called in to see if it was in (which it was now). So all it was a little oops in placing things around. I'm not too mad, now all I need now is snow to come down from the sky.

[cave]

So the longer the return tubing the longer the motor will run when I flip it upside down? Huh Ill have to try it. That would be nice . Not having to run at full bore that is.

[Simontist]

hi everyone,


I've just got my new Nitro MT yesterday, :D :D and i've got it all built now.


But, does anyone know how to stop the hex thingys on the wheel hubs from coming off when i remove the wheels?

(newbie question, i know)

[LearjetMinako]

The long tube has to go between the fuel tank and the carb.. From the way you said "return tubing" I thought of the one between the exhuast pipe and the tank.

And for those hex, I leave them be. Just be careful that the axle pin will/might fall out too. What you could do to prevent this from happening is to use thread lock on the hex. (Even I forgot what they call those things exactly)

[smallman28]

I wonder if anyone here can help me.
I am running a SNR which uses the same basic chassis as the NMT and was looking to see if its possible to fit a bigger fuel tank,I did a search and it seemed to be possible and wondered if anyone had any pics to show what was involved.

[gometro333]

How about a just a second or even third tank of the same size? You can mount the tanks all over the place; like on the rear bumper (requires a little cage to be made so it isn't broken) or on the steering plate. You can really put them all over. Just takes some creativity.

Just putting a bigger tank would require you to cut away part of the upper deck and if the SNR is some what new, it will viod the parts warrentee.

I would go with teh multiple tank idea.

-Matt

[LearjetMinako]

Multi-fuel tanks are a bad thing to do. I should know from exp.. The problem with this idea is pressure, but can probably be solved with a fuel pump. And I found out the hard way with my R/C trainer aircraft.

I'll submit a poor diagram later, maybe, of the idea.

[M16-A2]

My dual tank setup ran just fine with plenty of pressure.
It was a little more trouble to fill both tanks and run the extra lines, but it is worth it under certain circumstances.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/images/dualtank06.jpg

[LearjetMinako]

I guess, maybe, I could be wrong about the pressure thing. But still, its not my area to say "I wouldn't do that if I were you". At least, if anything goes wrong and the engine dies, you are able to retrive it (I had to climb a tree to get my trainer down).

[M16-A2]

Hehe that must have been a chore :) I dunno, there may be some compression difference between a RC and airplane engine(never run a plane myself, so can't really say). I do know that the XTM 15 which was powering the dual tank setup has loads of compression, so it provides adequate pressure through the system.

It would really depend on how much pressure the engine was giving the whole fuel system.

[PCC]

I've run a dual 75cc setup. The problem is if you land tail-first from a jump you will destroy the rear tank. On my NMT that I sold I installed an OFNA buggy 125cc tank. Took about 20 minutes to install and required one part cut off of the plastic upper deck then a hole drilled and countersunk into the chassis to mount that part back on with the OFNA tank in between.

[M16-A2]

I fixed that problem as well by fabricating an aluminum safegaurd for the rear tank.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/images/dualtank09.jpg

[KOLOR KRAFT]

ya i heard the ofna tank will work but i would like to see some pictures of it.............

[KOLOR KRAFT]

Originally posted by one_mean_rc10gt
I am looking into buying a new Nitro MT. What are the weak links of the MT? What should I replace right away for bashing/jumping durability? I would like to keep it pretty much stock, but I also want to run it without breaking parts every tank or fuel.


Thanks.

P.S. Maybe some of you guys/gals could make a top 10 or 15 list of items to replace.


# Things for a tough life + Things to do later section

1) Fit heavy duty plastic ball joint ends Robinson RRP 2013
or nylon ASSOC AS6273 Chassis ground away
for servo saver
2) MIP 1074 Stainless steel or Hammad Ghuman Titanium 8310 ball ends
a must for all suspension joints. Start fitting from the rear
suspension turnbuckles then front suspension lastly steering.

3) Fit Kimbrough Servo saver to replace the plastic straight arm type.
Grind the chassis lip to allow clearance between servo saver and chassis
lip.

4) Take off front and rear suspension arms and boil in hot water for
10 minutes. This adds flex to the arms which stands up to knocks better.

5) Replace the front and rear suspension turnbuckles with Lumford or
Schumacher titanium turn buckles.

6) Fit MIP Gold Shock Shafts front-1048,rear-1049 give much
longer and smoother movement as they are pre-coated
and have a polished finish.
Traxxas type ball end inboard S/Steel outboard
7) Rear suspension inboard ball joint anchorages
replaced by TRAXXAS ball end bolt through type joint.

8) Fit stronger shock towers front and more important rear. Make your owm out
heavy duty plastic or buy alloy sheet and cut out against current profile.

9) Standard brake and throttle servo horn linkages replaced by stronger
servo horn arms Throttle & Brake linkage changed
NOTE battery cover cut to allow 5 pack
10) Cut battery cover if 5 pack "AA" used slicking foam
padding under holder to insulate and cushion batteries

11) Fit HPI competition clutch shoes, trim to middle hole length for medium
speed clutch drive take up.

12) sts .12 1.3 hp with fantom pipe raw steel

13) When fitting fly wheel starting engine replace the standard tall engine
mountings for pull start engine with the lower drilled out mounts so wheel
starting can be carried out. Fit 1/8 ins washers between engine casing and
chassis engine mounts, gives more engine clutch bell to chassis clearance.

14) Replace needle bearings in clutch bell with 4 small roller bearings.
(used to give better support on long shaft)

15) Replace standard dog bone type drive shaft with titanium bones

16) Fit HPI optional heavy duty diff crown wheel A856 and pinion gear A857
for beefed up transmission. Start with rear diff first then if truck used
extensively fit front diff with these items.

17) Fit a rear suspension hinge pin brace make from alloy 3/32" thickness
or from heavy duty plactic 1/8-3/16" thick. Use longer threaded hinge pins.
Cut reat bumper off to allow brace fitting HPI 4wd

HPI 4wd HPI 4wd

[LearjetMinako]

For a larger fuel tank that any one can build. Today, in my Horticulture class, I came up with a very simple, cheap, and easy fuel tank to build. All it should require is a bottle, cocking (hot glue, etc), metal tubes or fuel nipples. Its kinda stuipd, but I like the idea.

I'll will be using a Power Aid bottle that is 12 fl.oz. (355 cc). This should give me a runtime on a O.S. .15 CV-RX engine, 24 minutes, tops!!!! And becuase that the bottle's lid is a nice size to fill it up with. My plan is to strap the tank (bottle) to the back of the suspension tower in the rear with a tube clamp or rubber bands.

Hopefully I'll get it competelied before sundown, so I can try it out, (not on a full tank of gas, I'll save that for another day when I can drive for 20 minutes straight).

Remeber that is just an idea, and a kinda stupid one at that, but at least you can dream and design things in this hobby. :cool:

[NMT4me]

KOLOR KRAFT,

Nice list! I see that you use the Fantom pipe. Is it the single stage or the dual stage? Also what are your impressions of the pipe?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

i had the t-maxx header with the factory hpi pipe and made a little difference on torque then i went to the ae pipe and was really impressed then last summer my buddy let me test the fantom pipe and i wouldn't give it back so i had to buy it tons of torque it is the single raw steel pipe and extremly loud. with that pipe i almost won the race that night in the 2wd class against the xxx and the ae trucks.:) you won't be disapointed

[Impulsed]

should i put ball diffs in both the front and rear or just the rear?

[LearjetMinako]

Well, finished the fuel tank. It works for a while. I think its the cold weather to blame. I did the fuel settings in 70 degree weather, but now its 40 degrees. I'll put the prototype tank back for a run around day at the track. Till then I'll have the 75cc tank in the truck.

[gometro333]

How can you fit the body on with that thing? Otherwise looks good.

-Matt

[NMT4me]

KOLOR KRAFT,

I've been going back and forth between the Fantom and the Paris. I've heard a ton of good things about the Paris however people with real world experience with the Fantom have been few and far between.

I was hoping that the Fantom was more than just a pretty face (dang I love the way those things look!). I'm glad to see that it performs as well as it looks. My LHS has a bunch on the shelf. Looks like it's time to go get one. Thanks for the info!!

[LearjetMinako]

Yhey, I can fit a body over? well to mean fit over, it is kinda wrong. I can fit the body around it, that sounds right. Haven't tried to do that yet, and I don't feel like cutting a 3" dia. hole in the back of the body. I'll find another way to this, hopefully it will be inside, low to the chasis, and carry at least 125 cc of fuel. I could just buy that OFNA buggy fuel tank, but that will take the fun out of building one. :cool:

[PCC]

KOLOR KRAFT, you forgot one important detail! You should relieve the chassis where the front suspension arm hits the chassis, causing a weak-point on the rear of the front arms.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

NMT that is how it always is a new product and nobody wants to try them get it now before they start righting reveiws on it then everybody will wan't it and price will go up as usuall. you no how popular there motors are now you think guys would wan't to use there pipes to......

PCC what are you talking about:confused:

[PCC]

Take a small piece of paper, compress the front shock a little and stick the paper between the chassis and the suspension arm. Most of the time the paper will be held by the suspension arm hitting the chassis, especially with the shocks mounted to the inner mounting positions. The problem is that the aluminum chassis is digging into the soft plastic suspension arm, causing a weak spot.

[Impulsed]

planning on getting ball diffs for my mt should i put both front and rear in or just rear?

[M16-A2]

I wouldn't get ball diffs, I've heard a lot of durability problems with the ball diffs when you run mainly offroad.

Instead I'd go for the HD final gears for the rear diff, and then if you have the money get HD finals in the front diff as well.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

sorry pcc now i no what you are talking about you totally confused me.:)

ball diffs are not recomended for offroad m-16 has it right avoid the problems the rear usually goes first.

[NMT4me]

Kolor Kraft,

Do you have any pictures of your NMT with the T-maxx header and Fantom Pipe?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

I AM TRYING TO SEND APICTURE AND IT KEEPS TELLING ME THE FILE SIZE IS TO BIG how do i fix that:confused: :confused:

[NMT4me]

I'm assuming you're trying to send a JPEG. If so, you can do one of two things: Either resize the picture to make it smaller, or convert it to a .GIF. Both will reduce the file size.

If you don't already have a program to make the conversion, try Irfanview, it's free and it works great.

http://www.irfanview.com/

If you'd rather not mess with converting the picture, you can always e-mail it to me. Check your PM for my e-mail address.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

there i think that will work.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

there what a pain in the but as you can see it is waiting for the new titanium parts we are making makes me said to see it that way but it will be indestructable when done.:) :)

[NMT4me]

Very cool! Any update on the Ti parts? Do you have other stuff in the works besides the bones?

[AllenJO]

Impulsed,

Agree with M16-A2, stay away from ball diffs if you're running off-road. Better to invest in heavy duty diff gears for the rear diff (front diff is under less stress and stock diff gears work fine).

Great Lakes Hobbies used to, and may still do, sell HD diff gears at 30-40% below HPI and Tower Hobbies. Haven't checked in a year. That's where I purchased mine.

[samaj]

I have a 2-speed gear set for my NMT . Its been siting there for almost a year . I want to run it off road. I heard that the one way bearing will get spoiled because of the dust. But what if i keep the car as clean as possible or put in a slippary clutch as well.

Basically i want to know . What should i do to enable me to run the 2-speed in my MNT..? Put dirt shields, cover the spur gears ?

[AllenJO]

Can't have both a 2-speed and a slipper clutch. I've never heard of anyone being able to fabricate a cover or shielding that will keep dirt from ruining the one-way. Suggest that you keep it for on-road use only.

[gometro333]

Just take out the two-way and put in the stock stuff. It would also save a lot of money because if you had to buy a new two-way that would set you down 80 bux.

-Matt

[brassmonkey1234]

Well, I haven't been here for about 3 weeks and you guys have only only through 3 pages?! Shee...

Anyway, let me update you guys on me :rolleyes:. Me: have wolfpack clutch type 2 speed on order as well as .21 conversion.

Well, on the topic of 2 speeds, ditch that wussy HPI 2 speed and get a www.wolfpackradicals.com 2 speed. It's similar to the ae 2 speed for the ntc3 so it's a lot smoother and tougher (a must for big blocks).

and those of you who still don't know of it, www.hpiforums.com
really fast responses, lots of people, and uh, yeah.

[gaus]

People,

I have a small problem. When my NMTR is on the stand and I spin the wheels by hand, everything seems okay except for the front left wheel. When I spin it, there is a little resistance and the whole assembly moves up and down so that the shocks are compressed a little bit, then when I continue to spin the wheel the assembly lowers and the shocks are uncompressed, this repeats as long as I spin the wheel. When the car is on the ground it seems to freewheel pretty well but the front left wheel does wobble up and down a little. It also seems that the steering is pretty tight. I built it and wonder if overtightend something but the wobble is baffling me. I checked the turnbuckle's length and it checks out. I don't have much time to wrench and am only $50 away from running this car for the first time. Any suggestions? Would it help to examine the inside of the front differential or what? Any advice is much appreciated.

gaus

[AllenJO]

I was about to suggest some things re the wobble, but then realized that your truck was brand new. If it were old, I suggest that you inspect the large ball bearing on inside of your wheel hub. Still, check to make sure that you put both the inside and outside ball bearing in the hub. Also make sure that you put the metal sleeves that house wheel hub assembly's top and bottom screws. If you left either out, there would be wobble. Lastly, check to make sure that your ball-end screws are in tight. Don't think your front diff is the cause: the a-arm and turnbuckles support the wheel hubs and wheels; front diff has nothing to do with that.

As to the steering, make sure that you assembled the steering assembly correctly -- that the bushings aren't binding and that the shafts that the bellcranks ride on are in straight. Down the road do consider replacing the 4 plastic bushings in the steering assembly with ball bearings -- you'll need four (4) 5mm x 8mm ball bearings. By the way, re tight: you aren't trying to turn the steering assembly while the steering servo is powered are you?

[Lapster]

Hey guys,


How much $$$ could I get for a ......

HPI Nitro MT rtr with...

Stock radio equipment
CVEC pipe
Trinity/Picco .12
MIP Clutch
T-Maxx Header

Not even a half gallon run through the car. I want to get a new car like a GT of a 1/8 scale buggy because my track does not race 4wd trucks.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

WHERE IS EVERBODY to cold to type............:)

[NMT4me]

I was wondering the same thing! Did everybody put their trucks away for the winter? I just put the Ofna slide carb linkage

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=10725&FVPROFIL=++

on my NMT, and what a difference that setup makes. Not that it's a go fast upgrade or anything, it just so much easier to set everything up to work properly.

I also just ordered the HPI stainless steel hinge pin set:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVB86&P=7 , and the Duratrax bearings:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXD109&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXD111&P=M

so I can pitch the stock roller bearing in the clutchbell.

Now all I need are some Titanium dog bones!:D. Sorry Kolor Kraft, just messin with ya! What's the latest?

[LearjetMinako]

No, its not too cold for me to type. I just been too busy driving the NMT through the snow all day long. With the Pro-Line Sand Paws equiped on the NMT, snow is no biggy. But the clutch proved to be overwhelmed when I melted it to the spring. Got rid of the stock NMT clutch that came with the kit and replaced it with the HPI Racing Clutch (first hole). Drives ok now.

And also been busy trying to find a new job to support this hobby. Grass doesn't grow in the winter, bummer, I'd wish it did so I can get paid.

All in all, I drive no matter what the conditions are outside.

Found whats been keeping my engine not running with the new fuel tank. You'll won't believe it, but it was a hairball in the carb high speed needle.:eek:

[KOLOR KRAFT]

we are still trying to get the bones right next set should be here next week and i will give them a thrashing to make sure they are strong enough and let you no how the test go's.

the other parts we are making are:
one piece upper deck w/removable radio tray,and non removable
front shock towers
rear shock towers
thick chasis 3.2mm
extended chasis and upper deck for .21 conversions
all parts are made from titanium alloy only and a lot of ofna stuff.

[DJGHS]

Does anyone make a steel spur gear for the NMT slipper clutch? and how much?

[M16-A2]

Steel spur gear = $35

Email at gimps_2k2@yahoo.com to order one or check out http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/MetalSpur_Page.htm
for more info.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

My NMT is close to being done.. i just need HD diffs, starter box, in-line pipe minor things, and WP 2 speed now.
My nmt has, PTI racing A arm mounts and rear shocktower brace, F4i shocktowers F/R and upper deck. Hpi stainless steel hingepins, Slipper clutch, Lunsford Ti Turnbuckles and 3PK.

here is a pic of my sweet sweet engine with WP engine mounts and flywheel

[LearjetMinako]

uh oh, run for the hills, NMT_Racer_Boy is going to run us out of town.

Sounds like from all the parts and little tunes you're planing and are doing. You are making one purebred racing machine. Thats one neat project that is going to be good to look forward to.

I have one question: What is the difference between the HPI 2-speed and WolfPacks 2-speed?

[Godspeed]

Hi guys, i just bought a pair of front universal dogbones(UD) to replace the standard dogbones that came with the kit. After assembling, the UDs keep coming out...the front wheels just slide out together with the UDs. I found out that the outer ball bearing of the front knuckles kept popping out and they pull the UDs out together with the wheels. What should i do to rectify this problem? Thanks in advance. :confused:

[NMT4me]

Godspeed,

This may sound like a stupid question but did you put the inner bearing back in the front knuckle? It seems to me like the only way that the outer bearing can pop out is if the inner knuckle bearing isn't in place and the outdrive is pushing against the back of the outer knuckle bearing.

Did you get the MIP CVD's or the HPI set? From what I understand, the MIP's are a little short for the MT.

[Godspeed]

NMT4ME,

I did put the larger inner bearing back into the front knuckle...seems to me that the UDs kept pushing the outer bearings out. After assembly, the UDs will come out of the diff shaft and they pushes the outer bearings out together with the wheels. :(

BTW, i am using the HPI set...not the MIP CVDs.

[NMT4me]

Godspeed,

It sounds to me like you may be using the wrong cvd's. I'm guessing that your using the rear cvd's instead of the front CVD's. Compare the ones you have with the ones that come with the HPI NMT Racer:

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/nmtracer/nmtracer11.jpg

and:

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/nmtracer/nmtracer12.jpg

Your front cvd's need to have the big flange to rest in the inner knuckle bearing (part# B030).

Take a look at this page:

http://www.hpiracing.com/walkthroughs/rebuild-cvd.htm

The 2 cvd's on the left (first picture) are for the front. the 2 on the right are for the back. Notice how the ones on the left have a big flange where two pieces of the CVD are joined.

If you use are trying to use the ones meant for the back up front, the whole cvd will pass right through the larger inner bearing (part B030) beacuse it has no flange, and the wheels will fall off.

The rear of the truck uses the same smaller (part# B022) bearing for both the inner and outer sides.

I hope this helps.

[Godspeed]

NMT4ME, thanks a lot for the information. :) You brought up a very good point there. I have checked, I am using the wrong set of universal dogbones, cos the whole UD just passes through the inner bearing. I shouldn't have trusted the guy at my LHS. :mad:
Anyway, thanks again. Cheers. :cool:

[NMT4me]

Godspeed,

Glad to help! Once you get the CVD's sorted out, let me know if you have a problem with them coming out. The HPI CVD's are supposed to be slightly longer than the MIP CVD's and they should not come out. I'm curious to know how well they work.

Good luck!

[NMT4me]

Anybody have any suggestions on a good rechargeable battery pack for the receiver on the NMT?

[AllenJO]

1000mah NIMHs at $14.99 each.

http://www.racerhobbies.com/rxpacks.shtml

[SleepyGMan]

How does that 5 cell battery fit into the NMT? It doesn't look like it'll fit into the stock electronics tray.

[LearjetMinako]

HELP. All day I've been tweaking the NMT suspension for a good off-raod performance. But everything that I do to it makes it worse. I'm trying to get it setup for a smooth surface with little runts in the dirt, but I need it to be setup up also for 6ft. high ramps and 20ft long jumps that could possible launch the NMT in the air 15 ft. The problem is that I'm losing thight steering. Even when I floor it, the rear end does not to come out but the wheels are peeling out. I'm done for today with daylight gone. Tomorrow I'll be up & out at the break of dawn (daylight). Hopefully I can find that right setting.

I'd posted what configeration I got now at the end of the day. Your replies will be very helpful.

[M16-A2]

Originally posted by SleepyGMan
How does that 5 cell battery fit into the NMT? It doesn't look like it'll fit into the stock electronics tray.

Actually a 5-cell will fit with no mods! Here's a pic of mine with my powerline deck, my brother also runs a 5-cell in his stock tray.

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/images/NMT_Stella01.jpg

[KOLOR KRAFT]

SET UP USED ON AVERAGE SMOOTH TRACKS


# Front Suspension

Oil 25 weight. Modified throttle and
Piston brake linkages.
Spring Red(normal) Silver(tight track).
Ride height Arms level(up for rough/jumping
Camber 1 degree negative.
Camber Link(Inner) As per kit(hard surface ).
Caster 25degree all conditions.
Toe In/Out Parallel(normal) 1 degree in(tight/wet).
Shock Pos Top Outer hole.
Shoch Pos Bottom Outer hole.
Tyres Proline M3 Cut Spikes -wet worn Sch. blue Mini spikes
# Rear Suspension

Oil 25 weight. normal - bumpy 3o weight
Piston Extra battery used
Springs for more servo power
Ride Height Slightly higher than level drive shafts.
Camber 1 degree negetive.
Camber Link
Camber Link(Hub) Old Shock tower used
Anti Squat
Toe in 3 degree.
Shock Pos-Top Inner hole
Shock Pos-Bottom Inner hole
Tyres Losi Step pins (silver or gold) wet Traxxas Spikes

# General:

Engine O S CV-rx Tuned pipe gives more
Glow Plug O S No8 power and better torque
Carb. rotary type inlet polished
Air Filter K & N (shortest inlet tube for less torque)
Exhaust fantom raw pipe
Gears 14 teeth bellhouse pinion normal - 15 long track
Clutch HPI heavy duty or Mugen 1/8 more clutch surface
(spring tension depends on track surface)
Fuel 20% blue thunder.
Body Standard body shell - extra vents for summer cooling
HPI RS4 MT F150 body shell better wing action.
Wing Normal conditions std. Rear dam wing O.K.
Foam Inserts Depends on the track tight track-std or belted
cut to tyre contours.
Brake Traxxas heavy fibre disc Adjust to have slight drag,
amount of drag depends on track surface, slippy
= low drag,dry = high drag.
Transmission Bell clutch drilled to lighten rotational weight. hope this set up helps should be a good starting point.

[gaus]

Hello,

I am just now starting to run on the ground a NMT racer I built. Besides a couple of initial problems that have been overcome, I have one more. When I throttle the truck, it begins to move forward then as I increase the throttle it pretty much just crawls around even though the flywheel is spinning rapidly, and engaging the small gear (pinion) smoothly. The wheels spin and have some power behind them when the car is off the ground, otherwise the engine is still a little rich. I am leaning it slowly but could this also be a problem related to my clutch? Any suggestions appreciated.

gaus

[gaus]

Hmm.. As I lean out the engine, things are getting to where the engine revs quick and high, but still no faster than like 10 mph. Oh yeah, it is a OS .15 CV-X engine. Temp is where it should be I think. Any insight again, appreciated.

gaus

[LearjetMinako]

Well after a whole day of tweaking the suspension, my conculsion for the setup is "This bites". I can't get the suspension to act in the way I need it to, but then it came to me as I was banging my haed on my computer. What about the springs! That is my solution, stiffer (harder) springs will solve this problem. Tomorrow I'll be at my LHS watching a 4wd stock/mod sedan race, I'll buy the spring then.

Gaus: Check to see if your brakes are dragging. I've got almost the same engine and it should push and shove that truck around like nothing. What is your gearing, type of clutch (stock, 2-3 shoes, racing). Try turning the spur gear with your hand to see if the driveline is freely moving, if not, somewhere in your driveline is your problem. :cool:

[duramaxx]

Has anyone put a four stroke on there MT, and what would i need
to do this.

[brassmonkey1234]

Four stroke eh? Well, I saw one guy with the thread .21 NMT update (in nitro forum) who looked like he had a 4 stroke in his nmt.

Well, I think Tower has lost my order w/ the ofna hyper.:( :mad: :eek: They said if it's not here by teh 26th, then they will resend using Fedex. Man I hate them now.

[gaus]

(in regards to a previous post)

My clutch is the stock clutch. How exactly does the clutch work, this I am a little confused on. I did not look at it carefully enough when I put it together. I don't think the brakes are dragging because it freewheels fine on the ground with the engine idling. It accelerates (the car) so slow compared to the increase in RPMS. Darn, this little car is so cool I just want to see it move fast.

[AllenJO]

SleepyGMan,
I don't really know if a 5-cell pack will fit in the stock radio tray, never tried it. Like M16-A2, I replaced my stock radio tray with an alum upper deck, and do exactly as he does. However, I'd think a 5-cell hump pack should fit (a flat pack, not).

I dumped the radio tray because (1) a wanted the stiffness that an alum upper deck would provide; and (2) I absolutely hated the radio tray -- I thought it ridiculous that I had to disconnect 2 servos just to change batteries. Glad to see that HPI fixed this design error in the Type SS.

I dumped akaline batteries because I had a near-disaster with a WOT due to a dislodged battery after a big jump, and decided that I wanted the security of soldered NIMH receiver packs. Packs have more juice, too. Since I also race electrics, moving to rechargeable packs wasn't a problem. Best move I ever made.

[M16-A2]

As I said in the last post the 5-cell pack will fit in both the Powerline deck and the stock tray.

My brother's NMT has a stock upper deck and tray, and he uses the exact same 5-cell pack that I do.

[LearjetMinako]

Gaus:
The clutches work off of centerfigerical force, but have a spring installed to pull the pads (shoes) back when the force is less. Its like taking a bucket and swinging it around. The faster you swing the more the bucket pulls.

Now you said your clutch is stock. Check to see if the pads are going in the right way. And don't have them on backwards. As you said the drivetrain moves freely, I'm a little stumped on how you can't get it really moving. Check to see if your throttle link opens the carb all the way. Try a 2hi/2lo fuel mixture on the needles and tune it from there.

I posted the clutch configeration. Note the way the clutch pads are in.

[gaus]

LearJet,

Actually, I think my clutch is the racing clutch because it came with the NMT Racer kit. Here is what I have to say now: should the clutch bell free-spin easily or should you have to spin it a with a little bit of force, no freewheeling? My clutch bell is tight and will not move on its own unless I move it around with my fingers..

gaus

[gaus]

LearJet,

Actually, I think my clutch is the racing clutch because it came with the NMT Racer kit. Here is what I have to say now: should the clutch bell free-spin easily or should you have to spin it a with a little bit of force, no freewheeling? My clutch bell is somewhat tight and will not move on its own unless I move it around with my fingers..The engine seems fine but there is no torque. The brake pad barely misses the flywheel.

Thanks again for any help.

gaus

[LearjetMinako]

The clutch bell should move freely. But if it moves too easily, add some kind of grease on the needle bearings. I have the racing clutch installed on my NMT and it works good. Had to replace it when I burnt the clutch pads down. My only guess left is that it has to be the engine. I can't really help much there, only if I was there I can help then. Sorry. I'll try to find a solution.

On the racing clutch, You still have to make sure that its on right.

[LearjetMinako]

Here's the racing clutch.

[PCC]

gaus, do this little test. From the bottom of the chassis, hold the spur gear still (it's the plastic gear that the clutchbell engages), grab a front wheel with your knees, then turn the opposite front wheel. There should be a lot of resistance but the slipper clutch should slip after you put a lot of force into it. If it slips easily then your slipper clutch is too loose. Take a 2mm Allen wrench, loosen the grub screw on the adjuster nut, grab a front wheel with your knees and turn the other front wheel backwards, which should tighten the adjuster. You want to tighten it all the way tight then back off a half to a full turn and see if this makes a difference.

The only other thing it could be is the setscrews holding the drive cups are loose. The NMT Racer has two of these, one on either side of the slipper clutch.

[gaus]

" If it slips easily then your slipper clutch is too loose. Take a 2mm Allen wrench, loosen the grub screw on the adjuster nut, grab a front wheel with your knees and turn the other front wheel backwards, which should tighten the adjuster. You want to tighten it all the way tight then back off a half to a full turn and see if this makes a difference.

The only other thing it could be is the setscrews holding the drive cups are loose. The NMT Racer has two of these, one on either side of the slipper clutch."

PCC-

I tried your test. It was somewhat easy to spin the wheel, though there was resistance. In reference to above, you are speaking of the center diff set screw (grub) to loosen, crank the front wheel backwards while holding one still. Then do I retighten the 'grub' screw? If this is correct let me know. Thanks a lot for all the help. This is driving me nuts as I have been waiting to drive this car for a long time and only this weekend did I finally install the hi-torque steering servo and receiver to boot.

gaus

[gaus]

PCC,

Also, when I do the the thing with the grub nut, holding one front wheel stationary and rotating the other backwards, it just continues to spin and never tightens up to back off any.

gaus

[gaus]

Next chapter in my dilemma:

I think the racing clutch is doing its job, I can see that there is power going from the clutch bell pinion to the spur gear. It must be in the center diff that the power is being lost. I think PCC was telling me how to fix this but it still aint working for me. I am not very smart and need some further specific instruction. IEEE.

gaus

[PCC]

Just as I had suspected, the slipper clutch is loose. Yes, you have to tighten the grub screw after adjustments so the setting doesn't change on you.

There are many ways to adjust the slipper clutch on these cars. One other method I used was to loosen the grub screw, and, while leaving the allen wrench in the grub screw, roll the chassis on the ground backwards to make the adjustment.

[gaus]

PCC - Thanks.

I was able to rotate the spur gear while holding that adjuster nut with my finger enough to tighten it. This little car jets around my ice covered streets like a maniac. What a blast. I'm used to 1/8 RTRS and I am so glad to have built this car myself and for the help I got from this website. The OS .15 CV-X w/ the stock pipe is so quiet compared to my Savage. I can run it late night and not bother me neighbros.

gaus :D

ps. Now I know what a slipper clutch is.

[gaus]

LearJetMinako, thank you too.

gaus

[AllenJO]

RE Slipper clutch,

Although the manual says 1/2 turn, that's way, way too loose IMHO. Especially if you have a FE; don't even need a slipper clutch for that engine. 1/2 and even 1/3 out will just sap whatever torque your engine generates for no useful purpose. I run at 1/6 turn out (1 side of the hex nut) and have never broken or stripped anything, and I have a Picco .15 and run offroad.

[Mossdog]

Just some pics of my NMT.... Havent been to the eternal single thread NMT forum in a bit! :p :D

[Mossdog]

I recently incorporated a spur gear cover into the skidplates of the bumpers, combined with the skirts, the whole chassis has a plastic undercarriage!!! :p

[Mossdog]

Heres a shot of the whole undercarriage from the back bumper down...... :cool:

[Whatsnext]

Where did yoy find the skid plate bumper set up, that looks like it should work great. Metal bumpers bend. Is it 2 pieces the third pic has the skids also.

[darkman]

Moss,

How do you attach the side skirts?

BTW I will be eternally filled with envy over your access to that plastic material. ;)

I could sure use some of that stuff on my 1:1 scale 4x4. Do some custom work on the cargo space, door panels, dash, etc. Maybe even build a cusom air intake box or a snorkel.

Oh well. I suppose working as a web programmer has perks too. I should be grateful for what I got.

Hey. Maybe we could work out a swap. I build you a web site, you send me a crate of that plastic and teach me how to bend it. :D Yeah, maybe not. :rolleyes:

[salito123]

You can get all the plastic you want at

www.usplastics.com


and to bend it all you need is a heat gun, no biggie

[Hicountry]

Well I was right I cooked my FE. HPI refused to sell me a stage three kit for it so I bought an OS .15CVRX. I really did not think the FE was underpowered, but this thing really hauls now. It is a lot faster than it needs to be.

I took it out in the snow the other day. I used my paddle tires and it had more traction than it needed. I did not want an RC10 because they do not run well on varring surfaces. 4WD really does help.

I also have an electric buggy now. It is nowhere near as quick as my NMT, but it also does not turn near as well. I bought it for my daughter so she could handle a slower car. She does better with my truck.....Point and shoot and it goes.

I have added rush out drives to the rear diff. They ARE better then the HD ones for the NMT. An AE 1/10th buggy wing, I think the 1/8th are just to big. I will try to add a picture later. MIP clutch......instant power.

Does anybody know about some better side gears and spinder gears for the diffs????

As for HPI's lack of customer service. This is the last thing I will buy from them!! I really like my NTC3, and I was going to buy an SS!!

Everybody have fun!!

[Mossdog]

Whatsnext, I actually sell the bumpers and have been considering selling the skirts/spur guard. I have more information on my webpage www.mossdog.freeservers.com Email if interested.

As for the plastic I use, I work in the plastics industry, and have many resources to tap. The plastics used in the bumpers is a blend of polypropylene, I used this so that the bumpers can flex a little bit on impacts absorbing the energy. The bumpers on the other hand will not bend or deform or crack in anyway (much better that aluminum). They are not bent into shape (which can cause wallstock issues and failure points) they are injection molded in rough form then hand finished depending upon customers requirements/preferences (ie fit to different vehicle)

The skirts are currently held on my NMT with 3M automotive adheasive (this is for quick removal during my testing and to allow easy mounting of other pieces I am currently working on) But there are many locations that they could be bolted to the chassis ( I will eventually bolt mine when I have completed my other projects)

If anyone has any other questions visit my webpage and feel free to email me! Thanks Moss.

[MAXX 2.5]

hi i just recently bought a nmt roller and it needs to be reserected from the dead. i am gonna take the whole thing apart and see what i need to get it runnning again. what motor pipe setup should i run??? hopups??? tires??? this is the rtr by the way

[Mossdog]

Hello Maxx 2.5. I would recommend checking the diffs and shimming them if they are not and checking the spur gear output cup joints (HPI # 76872) check the set screws and apply locktite to them I would order some new A-Arm trees as well (HPI #A456) boil them for 10min which allows them to flex in a crash and not crack. As for engine choice the most popular of engine choices in the NMT is the OS 15 line, the CV-RX being the most popular. Coupled with a high-flow header and single chamber pipe that NMT will smoke a 2.5 Maxx if geared properly. The Fantom FR15 (2003) model is much improved for more torque than the previous version. I think it would also make a good choice for the NMT for bashing. Basically it comes down to personal preference.

If your NMT still has the stock plastic "camber links" (HPI #A473) they will constantly pop off on you. I would suggest changeing them to some turnbuckles and good ballcups. Aside from that the stock plastic brake tends to heat up and fade easily, the fiber brake disk (HPI # A884) will make a huge improvement in the braking dept. Have fun with it its an excellent handling truck.

Check my webpage out www.mossdog.freeservers.com for lots of NMT pics.

[MAXX 2.5]

hey moss thanks for the info. does f4i still sell those towers? i remember way back when the old hpi forum was up and he was selling them. i want a front and rear. thanks for the tips! when its done i will submit some pics to you for your site:cool:

[RCRACER2471]

Hey my friend has a question on his MT which i cant seem to figure out.... He drive the truck all the time on and off - road and when he goes off jumps he alwayz breaks a couple of teeth on the spur gear. He has a slipper clutch and perfect gear mesh. Whats the problem here.....

[KOLOR KRAFT]

maxx we make titanium shock towers and have them in stock right now e-mail for info if interested.

also the spur gear problem they are very weak i have went thru dozens of them we also make steel spur gears that last for gallons if interested. i am trying to upload pictures and having a problem i will have pictures as soon as i get off the phone with msn.:(

[KOLOR KRAFT]

here is the spur gear we make they are harded gears.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

and the titanium shock towers.............

[RCRACER2471]

KOLOR CRAFT, how much would you sell the gear