Nitro MT and MT Racer Forum

[LearjetMinako]

Yes a one-way bearing is needed for the first gear. The tranny clutch engages the second gear.

[nitecrawler]

hello people
Just got my NMT going-well pleased with it. Its run in and going good.
Found this forum and browsed thru it yesterday and discovered that I should be expecting probs with the stock final drive dogbones. Sure 'nuff, I go out today and five minutes later I've got one banana shaped bone, and three twisted ones. Lots of you run the CVD's, but the Rush outdrives sounds like a good solution.
What I want to know, before I go shopping, is the final verdict on the most logical upgrade - the Rush outdrives and new dogbones (and some spares!), or the expensive CVD's. And do you use the Rush dogbones or the NMT ones?
Cheers

One little thought on the debates over grease packing diffs; Grease has excellent shock absorbing characteristics, and in a small, but I think meaningful way will help to protect the whole drivetrain, and the diff gears in particular.

[thatguy16]

nitecrawler: The NMT and Rush dogbones have the same part number, so they must be the same dogbone. I checked HPI's site. Maybe there is an older part number for Rush dogbones.

Anyway, those of you who have Powerling Aluminum Steering Bellcranks, I need your help. I want to get these bellcranks, but Tower says that they come with 4x8 Bushings, which appear to be flanged in the picture. I want to put DuraTrax 4x8 Flanged Ball Bearings in there, instead. Can I replace the bushings with those bearings, or any bearings for that matter?

Here's the Bellcranks: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=nmt7013&FVPROFIL=++

Can I use these Bearings?: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD106&P=7

Thanks for your help and sorry for the long post.

BTW, if the part no. for the Rush and NMT dogbones are now the same, what part number did you guys use to find the longer and stronger outdrives?

[NMT4me]

Thatguy,

I use the powerline aluminum steering assy and it does not use flanged bushings. They are standard 4X8 teflon bushings. I also use the duratrax 4X8 bearings (un-flanged) and the whole assembly works like a dream.

You mentioned that it looks in the picture like the bushings are flanged. The bushings that go along with the kit are not shown in the picture. For some reason, they show four washers in the picture instead.

The steering assembly itself works great and most of the slop that you find in the MT steering disappears. I'm glad I got mine.

[LearjetMinako]

Nitecrawler: That thought you had about the grease can protect your drivetrain, is true. I used automotive grease in the front diff (Not in where the bevel gears are) and it helps reduce wear and tear a lot. The thing was that I ran out before I can get the rear diff filled. Few weeks later, the rear diff stripped out on me. When I compared the front and new rear diff. The front was almost like new, hardly no wear. Now I packed the new rear diff with the grease and hopefully I don't have to change them again. I also updated the diff with that washer thing. I had the older version.

[Mossdog]

nitecrawler. I run CVD's on the rear of my NMT and recently ordered front CVD's. Some truckers claim that they dont last longer than dogbones. I have run my rears (which I bulletproofed) for about 4 gallons of hard driving and they are holding out well. Here is the link to bulletproofing the CVD's (a must) Bulletproof CVD's (http://www.hpiracing.com/walkthroughs/rebuild-cvd.htm)

For another upgrade I would suggest some turnbuckles and ballcups. The stock rigid plastic "camber links" whatever tend to pop off alot when cartwheeling and such. :D

I also grease my diffs ( I have entertained the idea of sealing them and running diff fluid, but have been too lazy). When I first got my NMT I packed the diffs, what a mess....Grease flew out of the outdrives and blasted grease everywhere! HA lesson learned....:rolleyes: Now for my regular diff checks, I simply just coat all the internal gears with grease, and so far so good! Mild wear but nothing drastic, I also swap the diffs (front to back).


This is a great site for lots of NMT mods and tips.....

kedars RC den (http://www.kedar.itgo.com/rc.html)

[KOLOR KRAFT]

these are the numbers for the outdrives alot stronger and longer put these on your diff and the problem with the bones will almost be elliminated.http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXVJ90

you should also fill your diffs with ofna silicone oil 50,000 front and 30,000 rear will last alot longer.

[MAXX 2.5]

got a few q's:

1. whats the best motor to replace the .15fe with?
2. whats the most tried and true way to bullit proof the driveline?

[k_bojar]

I know Mossdog just mentioned this but....

Anyone know what is needed to seal the NMT diff for silicone??

61 pages is a little much to go searching thru :) So any help would be appreciated

thanks

[Allen T]

Does the RTR with the painted body come with the updated 15 FE engine?

Is the truck pretty durable when you just do some "light" bashing? (IE: not a lot of jumping, etc)

Thanks!

Allen T

[KOLOR KRAFT]

sealing the diffs is simple with a little red silicone were the big gear bolts together (the big final drive gear) just a little silicon. ofna is probably the best 30,000 rear and 50,000 front.

max you cant go wrong with the os cv-rx pullstart always starts and runs and easy to tune. alot of people are liking the fantom motors they are a little finiky to tune but also good for the money.personally i like the os because of simplicity and tried and true tuning.:) http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBHL2&P=0

allen the truck is also preety durable for just bashing going to need more stuff if you get aggressive.

[Mossdog]

Indeed Kolorkraft is correct, the OS 15 line is very popular in the NMT, and is an excellent engine choice. (I am hoping to get a CV-R shortly myself! :D )

Allen T, if you are new to nitro trucks the NMT is a good choice, its easy to wrench on and the 15FE is a decent reliable engine that is very easy to tune. If you have extra cash the Racer version is a good choice and has many of the popular upgrades on it already, but you will have to add an engine of your choice and electrics...:) The Racer would actually save money in the long run. Check my webpage for various pics of NMT's with varied upgrades and engines... www.mossdog.freeservers.com.

[nitecrawler]

Just to recap on all the advice (thanks!)
I'm going to use Rush outdrives all round.
I'm going to pack and seal the diffs.
There is a lot of play on the outdrives - I guess this should be shimmed - anyone done this?

I'm going to stick with stock dogbones, and carry spares. At UK prices I can get 7 sets of bones for the price of 1 set of CVD's, and that doesn't seem worth it.
I'm going to fit the slipper, which presumably helps preserve everything (a bit).

Does that all seem reasonable?

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by Allen T
Does the RTR with the painted body come with the updated 15 FE engine?

Is the truck pretty durable when you just do some "light" bashing? (IE: not a lot of jumping, etc)

Thanks!

Allen T

The NMT is pretty durable for any kind of duty :) I race mine every weekend at my local track - and last summer we (truck and me) finished 2nd in a 30 minute A-Main...I really love this truck :)

I have the racer kit so I didnt need to add any hop-ups - it comes with all the HPI goodies outta the box :) I did, however, upgrade my shocks - I'm running Associated GT shock bodies with the HPI shafts and pistons on the front and rear :) the bodies are a little shorter but not too short to effect ride heigth

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by Mossdog
Indeed Kolorkraft is correct, the OS 15 line is very popular in the NMT, and is an excellent engine choice. (I am hoping to get a CV-R shortly myself! :D )


Mossdog - You're gonna LOVE the CV-R in the NMT :) I just added the .12 CV-R in mine last nite and the thing rips :D:D Throw on the T-Maxx header and the thing is a destructive beast :) And I'm still running the Racer kit stock pipe :) Dont see any need to upgrade it, yet...

[Allen T]

Thanks for the replies.....ummm......Does it come with the "updated" 15FE? I think ya'll missed that part of the question!


OOPS!

Actually, I just saw one of the latest ads in RCCA, and it mentions the updated 15 FE....So I guess that would mean I answered my own question! (right??) :D

Thanks again!

Allen T

[MAXX 2.5]

what about the driveline?? can it handle the increased power of a different engine???

[thatguy16]

Thanks for the help guys!!

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD365&P=7
Here's ome cheap yet very good tie rods for those who are interested. They remove a lot of slop. All you need are some long 4-40 screws and nuts.
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/d/dtxc8510.jpg

Since were on engines, anyone ever use the XTM .15? I did a search and not many on this board mention it. What I read though makes it seem like a pretty powerful powerplant for someone on a budget. And I'm hoping to upgrade to an engine that won't spit out the entire drivetrain, like the Fantoms and OS engines seem to do. Any thoughts?

Thanks again and try the tie rods, you won't regret it.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

once you go over 1.0 hp then things are going to happen you have to maintane drivetrain that is the only problem and it really isnt that bad. the os is still preety dependable motor . when i put the STS 1.3 hp in it then things just tend to wear out i try to catch it before there is problems like the diffs that is about it.....:)

[jimbonj]

Originally posted by KOLOR KRAFT
. when i put the STS 1.3 hp in it then things just tend to wear out i try to catch it before there is problems like the diffs that is about it.....:)

I'm guessing you have STS MT12 (I think all their other 12's are SG cranks). How do you like it? I'm looking at the STS, OS CVR and Fantom and trying to see who likes what.

TIA. Jim.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

i have the os 15 cv-rx,sts mt12,and the fantom 15 from last year i personally like the os for dependibility and tuning but the sts is definetly faster but harder to keep tuned but it just plain rips.........the fantom i think is going never really ran that motor much it was allright i guess.

[brassmonkey1234]

You guys have it all wrong, you need a .21! I got the .21 if I haven't metioned it (I think I did). That think kicks. Before you think about the .21 think long and hard, it's $300. But by god it's damn worth it!

Links to .21 pics:

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=763

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=764

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=765

[RCRACER2471]

Hey guys, got another weird scenario here. As you can see im have only bee asking questions for my friend because the things he does to it i can nver figure out. Do you have any clue how a cup joint (what connects to the dogbones) can snap in half??? Also is there also any way of preventing that of happening. Even though i dont own the car im quite curious myself......:eek:

[Lapster]

Hey, I was wondering if anyone made a steel spur gear for the NMT. If so, then cen you give me a link to it....... or a part number.

[reignman]

hey just got my nmt used from a guy i know. he already has cva's all the way around and a megatech .16 in it. been going through spur gears and need a stronger stearing servo. everything else seems to be holding up so far.

[Mossdog]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
Hey guys, got another weird scenario here. As you can see im have only bee asking questions for my friend because the things he does to it i can nver figure out. Do you have any clue how a cup joint (what connects to the dogbones) can snap in half??? Also is there also any way of preventing that of happening. Even though i dont own the car im quite curious myself......:eek:

I have broke a few on bad landings from big jumps. I have heard that some guys put rubber O rings around the outdrives. I dont bother myself, you can also get the Rush outdrives that are a little longer...HPI #72133

[jimbonj]

Originally posted by Mossdog
I have broke a few on bad landings from big jumps. I have heard that some guys put rubber O rings around the outdrives. I dont bother myself, you can also get the Rush outdrives that are a little longer...HPI #72133

You could also try a 3/8" compression fitting from the plumbing section. You might have to gring the dogbone pins though.

HTH. Jim.

[Hicountry]

Do not put 50,00 diff fluid in your truck, or any other diff fluid! With my FE it was "OK". With my .15CVRX it will toast the side and spider gears in less than four tanks!! (THE GEARS IN THE DIFF!!!) Proven three times. I tried to shim them every which way and it was no good. Removed the diff fluid and have ran almost a gallon of fuel with no diff problems.

The HPI HD outdrives for the NMT suck. They start notching instantly. The rush drives work great. They are a different material. You can tell by comparing them or doing a rockwell test. The regular out drives work great on the front.

M16 sells steal spur gears and is a first class man to deal with! Make sure you use a hardened clutch bell. Use an Ofna and lap about .030 off the bell. It works well and has a better selection of gears.

The HD Ring and pinion are not needed if you use the FE. If you go with more power they will last for a few tanks and then strip. Shim your pinion well and even the stock ones will last longer. I had to use a WASHER!

I have not tried the compression fitting on the outdrives yet. Sounds like a great idea! I'll let you know.

O-rings in the front out drives keeps the dogbones and CVDs in place. I'm not sure how, but I have never lost one.

Thanks for the link to bullet proofing your CVDs. I have had no problems with mine except for rocks and sticks bending them. Mine now cause a lot of hi speed vibration that my FE never noticed. That CVRX is FAST.

Have a good weekend!!!

[KOLOR KRAFT]

never had a problem with the diff fluid raced all last summer and never blow a diff inspected the diffs every two weeks and change the fliud though maybe that had something to do with it. i use 30,000 in the rear and 50,000 in the front to slow front traction down a bit why to much grip in the front.

could you explain what your problems were with the os that is as powerful as the STS and still didnt have much problems with the diffs. just courious

[nitecrawler]

Ten minutes running, and another set of twisted dogbones! And thats with the stock motor.
Are the CVD's worth the money? Aaargh ... I wish I'd bought the racer!
Are there any other alternatives out there?
Will a slipper help?

I've got the Rush outdrives on order, so I've got my diffs apart. I've read about people sealing diffs - can anyone tell me what parts are involved in doing this. Presumably O-rings behind the outdrives...but if anyone has done it please let me know.
I am also shocked by how much movement there is on the outdrives. If they are slopping up and down it certainly will aggravate any dogbone probs, and make it more possible for them to come out. I was thinking of shimming out the freeplay, has anyone tried that?

Thanks in advance for any help!

[MAXX 2.5]

a few diff q's..... what kind of grease to i pak the diffs with and how do you "shim" the diffs??? ne pics of the shiming would help