Nitro MT and MT Racer Forum

[blegris]

:cool:

[PlanetRC]

this truck rocks, i just traded my t-maxx for one. is there any clutch system that i can use so i dont need the needle bearings?

[atm92484]

Nope I don't know of any. You might be able to buy separate bearings and make some sort of spacer to put in the center so they can't move around.

I guess I'll post a pic of my NMT to help get this forum started.

http://a1060.g.akamai.net/f/1060/597/30minutes/www.zing.com/picture/padc3caf16a8c6004e22337db5868a2d4/fe961b07.jpg

Its powered by an O.S. 12 LD and has SS hinge pins, a slipper clutch, Associated tuned pipe, and a Robinson Racing vented flywheel.

[PlanetRC]

thats a nice truck man. how did you get that engine in there? can you do wheelies?

[blegris]

Yeah, that is pretty cool lookin'. What header is that?

What drivetrain upgrades do you guys think i should get, besides a slipper clutch, when putting a 1hp engine in it?

[atm92484]

I can sorta do wheelies if I can hit something to get the front end off the ground. Amazingly that engine just bolts into the holes for the optional engine mounts so no mods were really needed. The manifold was included with the engine. I just rigged up a way to use a better airfilter but this pic was before that. I'm waiting to find a 15 LD on sale so I can get the extra horsepower.

Mr. HP, you should atleast get a slipper clutch, racing clutch, and some SS Hinge pins (I know this isn't drivetrain but they help).

[ 05-10-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[Raeland]

PlanetRC,

When I added my 12R SC I put in (4) 5x8 bearings to replace the stock needle bearing and it works great.
http://rcboyz.com/

[tie-rod]

i put two 5x8 flanged bearings in mine , they fit good you do have to do some work for the inner one to fit right , on the inside of the clutch bell where the bearing goes in it not smooth , i used my dremal to flatten that area , bearing fits right in , i took my czz out and swapped in a new Picco rear exhaust , and used the header for a Picco side exhaust round port like i use in my xxxnt , fits perfect like the motor and exhaust was specifically designed for the mt , and man does it fly.

[rcnut4life]

can i do it can i put a os .15cv from a rc10 gt in my mt or is shaft too short or can i put a .40 4stroke in it i need help and some answere

[kawamatt]

Hey fellow racers. Have any of you put in a two speed yet. I am looking it to getting one but i can't find one for the MT racer. I was thinkin about tryin to make an rs4 two speed work but it would be luck if it worked. Any suggestions??

[blegris]

C'mon NMTers! :) :p :cool:

[atm92484]

Sorry guys I'm out. My NMT is literally in pieces.

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/025/lm/Y9/ca/Sl44146.jpg

I guess the NMT people are over on the HPI forum.

[ 06-21-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[T3GT]

Dude!!--->What kinda hit did it take to do that kind of damage...WOW :eek:
Hope you can repair it...
:confused:

[kawamatt]

Holy mother of pearl. You broke the chassis in half. Man you kow how to play rough i guess. Too bad you don't have a video of it. I bet people would pay to see that. :eek:

[ELJEEPO]

Hpi makes a 2-speed for the NMT. PN# A912
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/parts/a912.jpg

A .40 will fit, buzzsaw46, put one in his NMT, you can find him at the HPI forum.

[ 06-22-2001: Message edited by: ELJEEPO ]

[blegris]

atm,

If you really don't want to spend the money to fix the truck (if that is even your truck which I don't think it is) you could one front tire and hook it up to the servo and call it the HPI Weelie Master!

Mista H :cool:

[atm92484]

Yes that is my truck. The pic with the 12 LD is a lot clearer. I modded the stock FE carb so thats why that engine is on the car if thats what you are wondering. I was testing it at the time of the crash.

LOL Wheelie Master...hmmm....

[ 06-23-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[blegris]

How did you crash, or what did you run into?

What else is broken besides the chassis?

Mista H :cool:

[ 06-24-2001: Message edited by: Mr. Horsepower ]

[blegris]

I was wondering have any of you rigged a linkage setup or know where you can buy one for a slide carb?

Mista H :cool:

[Leinzey]

There's a slide carb linkage setup at buyhpi and it's $8. It's out of stock right now, though. ;)

[atm92484]

I hit a brick mailbox at full speed. Everything up front broke except the gearbox and the uprights/steering knuckles. I also shattered the fuel tank, destroyed the crab and broke a rear arm. You don't want to see pics of the body (remains atleast). Also you can't see it from there but the upperdeck along with some other small things are cracked.

[blegris]

That's CRAZY!!! :eek: :eek: :eek:

R U going to try to fix it?

BTW, Leinzey, do you know the HPI part number?

Mista H :cool:

[ 06-25-2001: Message edited by: Mr. Horsepower ]

[Leinzey]

The part # for the slide carb linkage is A889. :D

[atm92484]

Nah I'm not going to fix it. The NMT was cool but it wasn't strong enough for me. Anyways I spent more on that thing than I did on my FT GT (box stock) and the GT is stronger and breaks a lot less. It was a cool design but stupid things broke wayyyyy too much and it was getting extremely expensive. If I do rebuild the broken stuff is going to be replaced with aftermarket stuff.

[ 06-25-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[Leinzey]

Anyone else have mahor problems taking off these stupid e-clips. It takes me half an hour just to get one off! HELP!!!

[atm92484]

Use the tip of an X-Acto knife to work them off.

[blegris]

Post your pictures of your cars guys!

I would post but don't own a digital camera :(

Do any of you have 'Masher 2000s' on your MTs? Do they rub on the body?

Mista H :cool:

[JesTer31]

Hello, I don’t have any pics of my nmt but I have made a video a month or so ago...
This is when I was having major problems with the stock .15fe, it kept overheating to the point that it would start to smoke, and I know that the cast head was going to make it alot hotter than others but with the extra problems it just got horrible. At this point I was just going to get any last minutes out of this engine before I got my new one. I got an o.s. .15cv-x about two weeks ago and I’m lovin it. I will make another video as soon as i get some extra time. Here is the link to the videoNitro MT Video (http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/e73428ec/bc/nmt2.avi?bcZ2ui7A3SHHcdqr)
it is in .avi I used the divx codec so if you don’t have it get it Here (http://dvd.box.sk/divx/link.php3?rid=3828&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdvd.box.sk%2Fdownload%2Fdivx311al pha.rar)
--
Ryan

p.s. sorry I couldn’t upload it in mpeg, yahoo limits the files to 5meg I couldn’t get it small enough

[ 06-27-2001: Message edited by: JesTer31 ]

[blegris]

C'mon guys we gotta keep this thing going! Maybe we'll catch up to the RC10GT Forum! :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:


I was wondering... I'm planning on getting a nice show body for my MT, and I really like the new Chevy Silverado body from pro-line is there anyway I could use the T-Maxx mounting posts?

Mista H :cool:

[Leinzey]

C'mon! We have to get at least a few pages goin! Maybe we can catch the XXX-NT forum :D . Let's see some pics of those NMTs to get this thread going! I'd post some of mine...if only I had a scanner... :mad:

[blegris]

C:\WINDOWS\Profiles\blegris\Desktop\peace.gif

[FRED420]

Go with a Dura-trax truck. They are indestrucable :D I just hit a parked car squarly UNDER the tire. I was runing aprox 35 mi when I did. We had to roll the car forward to get my truck from under it. I bent the pan in the middle to where it rocks. I took it apart and used a mallat to **** it back into shape. Put it back togeather and runs good as new :cool:

[JesTer31]

was just checkin up in this thread... well i got my mip shiny cvd(front) today, i figured that i will just wait to bend my rear ones until i replace them also... what is a rule of thumb for replacing a glog plug? i have had this one for about a 1/2 a gallon and it hasnt given me any problems starting or nothing. but i have had others i need to replace about every quart or so no i am using a a3 i think, it is what came with my cv-x i used to buy the 8. but this one has lasted really long
--
did anyone even look at the video i made?

later
ryan

[blegris]

What video?

[JesTer31]

yeah i made a video, i have it in mpeg its about 8meg i aslo converted it to avi in the divx codec, where can i upload somthing thats 8meg?

--
ryan

[PCC]

http://images.imageevent.com/pcheuk/rc//13.jpg
MT Racer
OS 15CV-X with Powerline head
CVEC T-Maxx header
HPI composite tuned pipe
Motorsavers off-road airfilter
OFNA buggy 125cc fuel tank
14T clutchbell
49T spur
HD outdrives
HD rear diff gears
HPI titanium turnbuckles (the stock steel ones went into another project)
HPI slide carb linkage
Powerline lower front suspension mount
Powerline aluminum front hubs
Titanium front shock tower
On/Off switch mounted upside-down with access hole to turn the radio on or off
HPI receiver cover
Chassis relieve cut for the front suspension arms
Hitec 925MG steering servo
Futaba 3003 throttle/brake servo
60WT oil with #4 pistons in all shocks, front shock caps superglued in place
A318 shock ends in rear shocks (raises rear of truck off of the ground)
30,000WT diff lube in both diffs
Hamad Ghuman titanium ball studs on the outside ends of the upper turnbuckles
Captured ball conversion on the inside of the upper turnbuckles

I have the conversion parts needed to make this into a SNR as well.

[ 07-27-2001: Message edited by: PCC ]

[kawamatt]

Yo pcc. Awesome truck man. Hey do you still have alot of low end with that gearing. i have the same enigne in mine but with like 13 and 51 or something. Hey man once again awesome truck.

[kawamatt]

Hey do any of you guys know if it would be possible to fit a .21 in a mt racer. I am dyin for more power and i think the drive train could handle it seein as how there is all metal gears.

More power!!! :eek:

[atm92484]

Guys have put .21s in but they've also upgraded a lot of the drivetrain. For example they have the HD gears in the gear boxes. I've heard some guys love it then I've heard other guys have taken it out a few weeks later because it messes too much stuff up. Its up to you. You can probably get more information over on the HPI forum. Shortman is one of the guys who have done it.

[kawamatt]

Hey thanks for all the info. This is kinda a dumb question but is the hpi forum on their website cause i hear guys say well so and so is probably on the hpi forum??

[atm92484]

Yep its on their site, www.hpiracing.com (http://www.hpiracing.com) .

[PCC]

kawamatt, thanks for the compliment! That gearing does kill some off-the-line punch but I can still break the tires loose on dirt, just not on asphalt.

My brother installed an OS 21RG into his NMT a while ago. Two weeks later, he finally got the thing dialed in enough to run a full tank through without something breaking. He upgraded to HD outdrives, CVD's, HD diff gears, slipper clutch with 46T spur, 18T clutchbell, fiber disk brake, and some other stuff. He added a second fuel tank to it so he could run it for more than ten minutes as well. That truck now has a 12CV-X Hyper in it because he got tired of repairing things that the engine tore apart.

When he did get it running well, though, it was unbelieveably fast! We drag raced his truck against my NRS4 Racer 2 with CVR and two-speed. My car is pretty quick and tops out around 55MPH, and I just barely beat him because he could not get the power to the ground!

Weakpoints that we've found in the NMT/NMTR: Outdrives, CVD's, slipper clutch, diff gears, diff bevel gears, flexible chassis.

I'm a member on HPI's forums as well. Same username.

I just updated my previous post with some stuff I forgot about.

[ 07-27-2001: Message edited by: PCC ]

[kawamatt]

Well guys i have a new idea. Instead of inmstalling a .21 after the story about pcc's brother i am thinkin about an os .26 fourstroke.
I mean sure it won't have any top speed with the stoke gearing but i figure i might be able to pull a 20 tooth clutch bell along with a smaller spur. Because i have heard the little engine has muchooo torq.

Well just another idea though! :)

[Leinzey]

To keep up with a 2-stroke, a four-stroke needs a two-speed to keep up. But the sound is like nothing else...so go for it!

[PCC]

Yes, a two-speed is needed with the four-stroke. This means no off-roading because the two-speed will not hold up to the bashing and dust of off-roading. Keep this in mind. If you still want to do it and just want to run a single-speed, the easiest way to gear up taller is to buy the single-speed HPI 44T spur gear for the NRS4 cars. The spur gear shaft has a notch cut in it for the standard spur gear but you will need to cut the extension off of the 52T spur gear to support the ballbearings. Combine this with any of the HPI clutchbells and you will have tall gearing. You can buy their two-speed clutchbell and Dremel the smaller gear off as well.

I'm planning on getting the HPI 15SS engine and getting a .18 piston/sleeve set for it from CEN. This should give me insane torque. The question is whether or not the NMT can take it! We will see...

[kawamatt]

But will the .18 fit into the case of the ss. Also is the ss and good in stock form. At my hobby shop they rave about them but i don't know.

[PCC]

About the 15SS, I'm getting two in their (hush-hush) trade-in program. You trade in your old 15FE in any condition plus $85 for a 15SS. When I get it I'll report back here.

As for the CEN piston/sleeve, I've heard that it will fit and the set costs $30 so I figure that $30 in the name of science is a good investment. I'll order that as soon as the engines come in. K&B engines markets a .18 engine based on the same platform as the 12E, 15FE, NS15, 15SS, FS15LT, etc. These are all based on the same block with minor differences depending on the manufacturer who wants to sell it. If the CEN one doesn't an out then there's the K&B one.

Even if you get the 15SS and change the piston/sleeve for the one from the Nitrostar 15 you will end up with a .16 engine since the 15SS uses a smaller bore diameter with a longer stroke.

[RallyGuy]

any one know if the 4 stroke conversion at new eras website is any good ang will it work with the racer?
thanx

[kawamatt]

Hey guys. Anybody know of a place were i could pick up a rear exhaust header for like these nova engines and picco rear exhaust that would work in the mt.
I just can't seem to find one. :confused:

[athowells]

I am thinking about getting one of the HPI Nitro Trucks, Rush, MT or Racer. Which should I get adn why? :mad:

[Leinzey]

Definately the NMTR. The NMT is a great truck, and the NMTR is a good value because it includes hop-ups. Fun truck, and I highly recommend it.

[Mrzoidburg]

http://a0.cpimg.com/image/96/78/1559190-0d1e-02000155-.jpg
http://a7.cpimg.com/image/93/78/1559187-15f9-0200013F-.jpg
http://a1.cpimg.com/image/97/78/1559191-da2e-0200014D-.jpg

Enjoy
:)
MrZ

[ 08-07-2001: Message edited by: Mrzoidburg ]

[ 08-07-2001: Message edited by: Mrzoidburg ]

[PCC]

Hey, MRZ! Glad to see you here! Are you like me and can't get into HPI's forums?

[Mrzoidburg]

Hi man :)
Nah, i can get into the Truck forum, can't you?
I was just browsing and I bumped into this place, man what a huge forum!
MrZ

[Tom Hutt]

Mr Z, what is the part number of those wheels?

[Mrzoidburg]

These are the ones that I got, i just dyed them with fabric dye.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?Q=1&I=LXM882

:)
MrZ

[PCC]

I couldn't get in all day and I just got booted out of there :mad:

[Mrzoidburg]

Well I'm right there with ya now buddy! I can't get in either :(
MrZ

[PCC]

JYD, the CVRX will scream in an NMT but it lacks off-the-line punch. The 15CV-X has off-the-line punch but lacks the top end. The soon-to-be-released 15CVR promises to have it all.

The problem with the MT Racer is that the slipper clutch will not handle much more than 1HP unless you lock it out but you end up without a slipper in the drivetrain. I'm not sure what HPI's doing about it but a lot of owners have voiced concern over this.

[JYD]

Thanks for the info PCC.

[Knightshade]

HPI's site has lagged alot lately, what's up with that?

PCC, you gotten your buggy yet?

[ 08-08-2001: Message edited by: Knightshade ]

[Knightshade]

Ignore my last post, I just read your comments PCC.

Sorry about that folks.

[Mrzoidburg]

Yeah the HPI forum has been a bit up and down lately :(
I guess it'll sort itself out someday soon.
MrZ

[PCC]

Knightshade, I got it this past weekend. It was in rough shape. The engine was nearly seized, the chassis was scratched up, the front shock tower was bent as were a few screws and stuff. The rear shock came apart, etc.

I took it apart, cleaned it up, and still need to clan/rebuild the front and rear bulkheads and diffs. I won't be able to run it for at least another two or three weeks.

[Mrzoidburg]

PCC, what kinda buggy did you get?
I've got an EB4 on it's way to me now. After the NMT i just had to go one bigger. I'm hooked on 4x4nitro!
:D
MrZ

[JYD]

What kind of engines is everybody running in their NMT and NMTR. I am building a NMTR and haven't decided on an engine. OS.12CVRX or OS.15CVX?

[Leinzey]

Mr. Z! Glad to see you here, maybe now we can get this forum rollin. Now that I've ordered my XR3, I'm looking for a new engine for my NMT. My FE was ok for awhile, but my friend got a T-MAXX, so I need to at least be able to outrun him by a mile. I was looking in the March 2001 edition of RCNitro and on page 121 they have a nitro oval car with a .12CVR with a black heat sink! I was wondering if anyone has seen one of these and where I could get one. Thanx!

[Knightshade]

I think he got a OFNA GT LX? I was looking at the OFNA MBX R2 myself, but I assume that maintenace costs for a 1/8 are higher than they are for 1/10, so I'm sticking with the NMTR for now. Maybe sometime down the road I'll go 1/8

[PCC]

Actually, it's the Ultra GT pre-LX. I'm not sure what the difference is, though. It came with the P6 engine which is better than the P4 engine, I suppose, but I want more power! I might just buy my brother's 21RG and drop it in there and put the P6 into my NMT :eek:

As for the maintenance costs, they should be more expensive but I haven't bought anything for the buggy, yet, so I don't know.

If you look at it the NMT is really just a 1/10 scale buggy. I'm going to see if the OFNA center diff can be adapted to the NMT (initial inspection shows that this might work) and, if it does, I might get a Torsen for it.

[Knightshade]

Putting the P6 into the NMT. :D

But seriously, you've upgraded your drivetrain enough to handle that much power? I've seen the posts on the parts to replace when doing such a thing on HPI, but their site if forever slow, so let the info flow. :cool:

[PCC]

Well, the 21RG from my bro came out of his NMT. He got tired of breaking driveline parts. The P4 (I found out it has the P4 piston/sleeve but the bigger head from the P6) has about .5HP less than the 21RG so it might not kill the parts in my MT Racer as easily. I'm still undecided on this conversion. I just don't want the potential headaches. I'll have the buggy running by tonight and will run it tomorrow to see how it does with the P4 before deciding.

Wait a minute, this is the wrong forum for all this talk (type?) about my buggy!

[m3pedro]

anyone race their trucks how do they do against a rc10GT ?

[Leinzey]

These trucks will kill any 2wd truck on a tight track. It won't take the turns quite as tight, but out of the corners you just point the wheels and pull the trigger. On a larger track the advantage would be reduced, but if your track will let you with the 2wd trucks, go for it.

[Asmenoth]

this truck rocks, i just traded my t-maxx for one. is there any clutch system that i can use so i dont need the needle bearings?

Just in case you havn't found out yet, replace the needle bearings 4 5x8 bearings. 2 regular bearings and 2 flanged ones.

[II] ([-flanged bearing I-regular bearing)

Put them in the clutch as shown above. The flanges replace the two washers one the inside and outside of the clutch bell.
You can order them of off Tower Hobbies.

[Knightshade]

Hey PCC, you're still technically talking about your MT, so it's all good. It seems that since the HPI site is no longer suffering slow down this forum has slowed down quite a bit though.

Cya on the flip side! (Same nick) :cool:

[PCC]

The decision's been made. The P4 goes into the NMT. I probably won't get to installing it until next weekend, though. I have to put the 21RG into the buggy, first.

[kawamatt]

Hey guys does anyone know if a torsien diff would fit in the nmt. I have so far onl;y seen them for 1/8 scale but would a 1/8 scale diff fdit into the houseing???

[kedar]

hey guys, i'm from the the hpi forum under the same name.
here is my truck:
http://www.kedar.itgo.com/carangledlights.jpg
http://www.kedar.itgo.com/topbrake.JPG

[PCC]

kawamatt, OFNA buggy diffs won't fit NMT's because the diff housing on the buggy is a lot wider and so is the diff. I've found that the center diff is close enough that it might work if modified. I'll be buying one in the next month or so and will try to fit the old diff from my buggy into my NMT.

[kawamatt]

darn darn darn. I hate it when my mt gets up on two wheels and i can't steer out of it because the two wheels that are up are spinnig. i guess i am just to lazy to seal then fill my diffs with thick liquid.

[Knightshade]

What exactly do most of you use to build your diffs with? I know that 1/8 buggy users fill theirs with some type of oil, but how about everybody here? Do you use just the diff grease or add something extra?

[Mrzoidburg]

I packed them with thick automotive grease. It lasts for a little while but it really should be replaced on a regular basis.
MrZ

[PCC]

OFNA and Mugen make and sell silicon diff fluid in different weights. OFNA even makes one they call Difflock. It is 500,000WT silicon lube that has the consistancy of thick honey on a really cold day.

[Knightshade]

Ya, I've heard that stuff mentioned in the ofna buggy forum. What do you use in your MT PCC?

[PCC]

I forget. I think I'm using 30,000WT up front and 10,000WT in the rear, or was it 50,000 in the front and 30,000 in the rear? Dang old age! :D

On second thought it's the thicker combination. Mind you, I don't race so this combination gives better traction for climbing and crawling through the rough-stuff.

[Knightshade]

So you use a lighter weight oil in the back? I would have thought a heavier oil would be used from what I've heard about the back end of the MT sagging.

I don't plan on racing as I don't think I can afford the upgrades. At least, not for awhile. :cool:

[PCC]

The back end sagging has nothing to do with what oil you use in the diff. Using thinner stuff in the rear kills some of the tendency of the truck to oversteer. The thinner the lube, the less it oversteers.

They actually intended for the rear to sag. I put in longer shock ends to lift the rear up off the ground (HPI part #A318) and it does not seem to affect handling so that's what I have.

[PCC]

Originally posted by Knightshade
I was looking at the OFNA MBX R2 myself, but I assume that maintenace costs for a 1/8 are higher than they are for 1/10, so I'm sticking with the NMTR for now. Maybe sometime down the road I'll go 1/8

OMG, DO IT!!! I just took the buggy out for a real thrashing and this thing is tougher than nails! I took it out to a local elementary school back lot to mess around with it and it was a total blast! The buggy did so many end-overs and cartwheels that I would have swore that I broke something but the only damage done was a missing E-clip! With my NMT, one cartwheel and the shocks will blow. One end-over and the front or rear suspension arms will break or a turnbuckle will pull out. The buggy did so many bad landings that my NMT would have been totalled and it kept going! I ran three whole tanks through it running it a lot rougher than I would have dared to run my NMT and almost nothing went wrong with it! The NMT would have been lucky to do half a tank under that kind of stress.

The decision's been made, my NMT R's for sale!

[PCC]

Just to add to what I posted a few minutes ago.

The cost of maintaining a 1/8 buggy is going to be more but the cost to run it will be cheaper because it can take a lot more abuse without breaking so you will actually come out ahead in the long run.

Also, the bark from a .21 makes even a well-tuned .15 sound weak.

My brother, who owns the first NMT in the family said that my buggy was what he wanted the NMT to be and, while the NMT was fun, the buggy was so much more fun that he's glad he gave his to his son so he now has no excuse to get a buggy now.

[Knightshade]

I don't know how I connected diff oil with the rear end sagging. I feel like an idiot.

In addition,

PCC. You suck. I had finally accepted the fact that I would just get a NMTR and be happy with it, and I was until I read your posts here and on hpi's site.

I will justify buying the NMTR by saying that it's my first nitro and many people state that a 1/8 should not be a "newbie" vehicle.

[ 08-30-2001: Message edited by: Knightshade ]

[PCC]

Knightshade, :p

Think of it this way, you now have an upgrade path for the NMTR.

BTW, I'm keeping the NMTR because, A) I've got too much money in it and, B) I still like it enough that I will be running it from time to time.

[Knightshade]

Upgrade path. Yeah, that's what I figure. It will probably be awhile though. NMTR is on order. Will probably take a couple of weeks to put together. Between school, work and family, there isn't a lot of spare time.

I left work early yesterday so I could tune my skis! What's up w/that?

[PCC]

I hope you mean water skis since there's not a whole lotta snow in San Diego...

[Knightshade]

Nah, going to try and get out to CO this winter. Hey..maybe I'll take my NMTR out there too. I've been told that racing in the snow is pretty cool.

Cool...get it? Cool?

Okay..I'll shut up now. :rolleyes:

[athowells]

Hi guys. I read the 2nd page of this forum and I guy said that he is either getting the Rush, MT or MTR. I am also deciding on which one to get and I probably won't to get the MTR and a O.S .12CV-X engine. What are some pros and cons of these kits? :confused:
Do HPI make graphite suspension arms and shock towers?
Another thing I wish HPI would make is an upgradable steel chassis. That would be so strong. Can't wait to get which ever kit I get. ;)

[Leinzey]

The Rush is great for a begiiner and if you have racing aspirations for the future. The NMT and NMTR are both great. I have the NMT and love it. The chassis, even the 2mm chassis, will serve you very well. It is a superb design. The racer comes with a 2.5mm chassis which is even better (obviously). I'm curious as to why you don't want the NMTR. It is a very good value. I wish I would have gotten it from the start instead of buying the hop-ups separately. A good engine for it would be the .15ss or .15cv-x. They don't make graphite arms or shock towers, but they would break fairly easily, especially the arms. The stock arms are just fine, and for shock towers there is always aluminum, and now titanium. I would recommend the NMTR even though it will cost you more up front...great truck.

[athowells]

I was suppost to say I want to get the NMT Racer. I must of tiped it in wrong. So what are the fragile parts of these kits??

[Leinzey]

Really, the only weak parts I've heard about are the front a-arms (of which I have broken only one by going 25 mph into a vertical curb), and the front shock tower, but I've never broken one. I'm not the best driver, and my NMT ends up doing cartwheels at least once, and that's all I've broken. These trucks are awesome and very durable. You'll love the Racer.

[PCC]

I may have come up with a way to make the NMT suspension arms a lot tougher. I made some braces (like the braces that connect the two hinge pins at the front and rear diffs) that go from hingepin to hingepin but in front of the suspension arm. I've made one but messed up on the second one, and I haven't tested it.

[atm92484_3]

PCC, with your arm thing (that brace), have you tried making it so it connected the inner and outer hinge pins instead of the inner pin and the middle of the arm?

[PCC]

Yes, it goes from outer hingepin to the inner hingepin on the outside of the front brace. I had some sheet metal laying around and cut some slivers out and drilled them to fit but the second one I cut a bit short (no drill press) so I'll have to try making another one.

[Knightshade]

I just started building my kit last night and regarding this diff oil that has been mentioned. How much are you supposed to use??? I don't want to flood the poor thing.



And is anybody else having problems with HPI's site?

[MatthewB]

KnightShade, I just finished my NMT this weekend it was very easy to build. I have only run about 5 tanks so far, but it runs great. I love it.

I am also having trouble getting to the HPI site :mad:

[Knightshade]

Ya..the kit is relatively easy to build. My only hiccup was trying to figure out how to secure the damn eclips! Once I figured that out, it was smooth sailing.

However, until I know how much diff oil to use, I won't be going any further (I'm only at the end of Bag A) because I'd rather do it right the first time than tear everything down again just to lube the diff again.

Or, I'll just use automotive grease if I don't get an answer soon enough.

[atm92484_3]

You don't need oil in the diffs. I just packed my diffs with Associated Black Grease and I had no problems. Automotive grease would also work just fine. I also used the same stuff on the other gears but I didn't pack them: I just coated them. Not once did my diffs or gears wear out. Granted the best engine I had in there was a 12 CV. I had enough trouble breaking parts with that engine though but thats another story.

[Knightshade]

The black Associated grease eh? That's the stealth stuff isn't it?

I'll probably just go with automotive grease since I've heard that mentioned by a couple of people already and I've got plenty of it!

Thanks for the input.


In regards to an engine, I haven't even decided on what I'm going to go with. I'll be using my brother's old 15fe until I make a decision. Unless of course, I come to a decision before I'm finished building the kit!!

[atm92484_3]

The Black Grease and Stealth Diff lube are different things. The Stealth lube is sort of a clearish tan color while the black grease is well black grease.

[Knightshade]

I just packed my diffs with some automotive grease before I came to class.

Man..I forgot how much that stuff stinks!!

[purplerides]

i use 50,000 wt silicon up front and 30,000 in the rear i found it handles better i was using like 20,000 and 10,000 but that wasn't enough resistance , the problem with grease is the first time you drive the truck the grease with fling away from the spider gears and not have much resistance anymore , though enough grease with remain in contact for lubrication so no damage will be done , the silicon oils help with tuning for better handling, but i'm racing mine weekly if you are just backyard bashing grease or oil will be fine.

[MatthewB]

How much grease should I have put in my diffs. The directions only said a light coat. I put more than a light coat, but I am wondering if I should have put more in.

[atm92484_3]

Matt, you know that houseing the gears are in? I totally fill mine with grease. It takes a lot of grease but it works.

[MatthewB]

Thanks for the tip. I think I will do that.

I have a stock NMT is there any hop up parts that I should get to replace weak stock parts?

[purplerides]

yep! pack them full of grease

[Knightshade]

50 F & 30 R eh? Seems to be a popular combination. Maybe in the future when I rebuild my diffs, I'll try that out.

Anybody have tips regarding CVD's? I've heard that some people heatshrink them, but just exactly which part of the CVD are they heatshrinking?

[Mrzoidburg]

Knightshade,
Just cut off a small length of heatshrink (1cm) and place it over where the pin connects the axle to the cvd shaft and apply heat.

Works well.
:)
MrZ

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

how do you dye white plastic wheels?

[Mrzoidburg]

Just use any fabric dye and follow the instructions. I used a powdered dye, put it in a pot of water and boiled my rims in it until they reached the color I wanted.
MrZ

[schmik]

Guys,

Do you know whats happened to the HPI forum....????

I haven't been able to log in for a week now.

cheers
schmik

[Mrzoidburg]

Hey Bro!
:)

I emailed Frank and he said their server died. Said it should be back in a couple of days.

Nice to see you here.
:)
MrZ

[schmik]

I just had to get my fix of RC... been having withdrawals !

Did you get a 1/8 buggy ?

schmik

[Mrzoidburg]

Nah, i decided in the end to get a Factory Team GT (Gasp!!)

THey don't race 1/8 up here so it was a bit pointless. I can go further with a 2wd than a 4wd up here so the RB now resided in the GT and i got my old OS 15CV-X back in the MT, which now is my big air specialist.
MrZ

[schmik]

rc10gt eh!!! can i ask... how much was it and where did you get it.

I have a rush at home and i drive it a bit but it kinda sux... the steering is very week and the chasis keeps bending. I think i'll sent the chasis to hpi and may invest in a hi torq steering servo for it.

My latest rc job was getting a nice starter box.. putting a power panel on it to drive the glow plug starter.. tonight i'm gonna try and find a 12v battery that will actually fit in the box so it doesn't have to be hooked up to the car 12V... so i can sit it at the start line. Then i may get the dremel out and convert my engines to non-pullstart.

how does the rc10 handle ? steering ? how does it handle with the RB in it ?

schmik

[Mrzoidburg]

Got it from Tower, cost me $600 Aus bye the time it arrived. I love the Gt, it handles great, way better than I thought it would. I thought i'd have a hard time going from 4wd, but it was a piece of cake.

It's way faster than the MT ever used to be, now the RB is non-p/s, it just seem to rev so much more free-er. I got a Hi-Tec hi torq steering servo so it steers great.
I'd highly recomend one.

I was talking to craig about a national nitro event in the first part of next year up here, you guys should think about it. When I get some more info, i'll let you know.
You've got somewhere to stay if you decide to.
MrZ

[schmik]

I national event would be cool. i'd be up for it. i've got some $$$ saved up in my rc-fund and can't decide what to spend it on. it'l either be a fancy transmitter or turning the rush into a race worthy truck or getting a micro.....

but then again i'm in the market for a 1:1 4x4 so i may end up blowing the lot on that...

at the monent i'm pretty keen on a fancy radio, i want the KO vantage, the stick version of the mars. that would send me back $650 .... that could be a whole extra truck.

are you using a non-pull start back plate on your engines or did you just grind the pin off the crankshaft and use the pull start backplate ?

schmik

[Knightshade]

What do you have to change to get these rims to fit? I want to get a pair of the one piece rims and dye them.

Mr. Z, thanks for the input on the CVD's. I'll do that tomorrow.

[Mrzoidburg]

RB being pretty switched on have a groove in their non-p/s backplate so you can take a pull starter off and bolt the back plate on without haveing to cut the pin off.
Pretty smart huh?

[Mrzoidburg]

Can't help you there i'm afraid. I bought a set of HPI star truck rims and they came with some hex adaptors to put them on a GT but i don't know how to go the other way.
Sorry :(
MrZ

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

what kind of starter box do you guys recommend???
THANX GUYS:p :p :p :p :p :p

[schmik]

Mr Z... BTW, thanks for the offer of a place to crash in QLD.

So with the RB, does the shaft still stick out of the back plate and spin as the engine spins ?

As for a starter box, i got a Eureka universal 1/8 / 1/10 box that can accept either 2 7.2 battery packs or a 12V power supply, the wheel can be faced in any direction so it works with any car / truck. Cost = $155 aussie dollars or about $75 USD...

got it from www.radiomodels.com.au

schmik

[Knightshade]

That's all right Mr. Z. I could have sworn I'd seen how to do it somewhere (probably on HPI's site) but seeing as it's down right now, it's kind of hard to look it up. :mad:

Any other tips you all may want to share?

[PCC]

About the CVD's. Take a Dremel or similar tool and cut a shallow notch in the middle where the setscrew holds it. Make sure the setscrew fits into the notch and this will ensure that the pin does not fall out. I've done the heatshrink thing and the pin just eats its way through the tubing and you end up with a missing pin. LOCTITE THE SETSCREW!!!

[Mrzoidburg]

That also is a good idea. I first tried using regular heatshrink and found it did as you said PCC. I then went to a thicker grade with has an adhesive glue on the inside. I have to cut it off with side cutters to disassemble them, so it aint going anywhere.

I think the key is correct maintenance. If you re-build regularly and loctite the set screw in, you probably don't need to take any extra precautions.

It never hurts to be cautious though ;)
MrZ

[Mrzoidburg]

Originally posted by schmik
Mr Z... BTW, thanks for the offer of a place to crash in QLD.

So with the RB, does the shaft still stick out of the back plate and spin as the engine spins ?

As for a starter box, i got a Eureka universal 1/8 / 1/10 box that can accept either 2 7.2 battery packs or a 12V power supply, the wheel can be faced in any direction so it works with any car / truck. Cost = $155 aussie dollars or about $75 USD...

got it from www.radiomodels.com.au

schmik

The backplate is actually recessed so nothing sticks out at all. It looks exactly the same as the Non-pullstart version of the C12.

I saw the starter box on Johns site but I took an even cheaper option and bought a hand held bump starter, $50 Aus and about $10 for a wheel for it. Came with the cables too, it works fine. Although i'd have to say a box would be more convenient.

[schmik]

ah... the quality of RB!


i'll have to find a new backplate for the rossi.

bugger! i got a 12v battery for my box lsat night and its to big by 4mm... the box is made from 5mm aluminium.... so the dremel is in for some for some hard work hehehehe

schmik

[schmik]

once i get the box finished it will be
1. portable (battery wil be internal)
2. have an attacthed glow starter
3. be able to charge other glow starters (it has a thing on it the shape of a glow plug.. you put a regular starter on it and charges it)
4. have an additional 12V supply jack... so others can plug in a bump starter
5. Have a lead that can clip to a car battrry incase the internal one goes dead.


but i guess the grass is always greener.... i wish i had only spent $50.... my bill is around $200

schmik

[Mrzoidburg]

Sounds like a "Works" model starter box!

Put the OS 15CV-X back in the NMT yesterday, put it all back to gether after 4 weeks of it sitting in pieces on my work bench. Still runs good.

It's nice to now have 2 running trucks, one for racing and one for stupid jumps :D
MrZ

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

MR.zoidburg
Hehehe stupid jumps :D :D :D
I did that and I broke my shock tower
:D:D:D:D:D

[kedar]

anyone have a 2 speed and slipper on their NMT? can duratrax's 2 speed / slipper fit the NMT?

here is Rockette, if you don't see an image then click on the link.
http://www.kedar.itgo.com/armstoplarge.JPG
http://www.kedar.itgo.com/armstoplarge.JPG

plenty more at: kedar.itgo.com

[schmik]

Nice one! That is very alloy and very purple!

[kawamatt]

hey kedar how much money have you dropped into that. I would like to someday say i own something that trick. also what engine is that.

[kedar]

... and just a bit of titanium. click here for a full list of hop-ups: http://www.kedar.itgo.com/hop-ups.html

but i sure would like to run a 2 speed and slipper clutch. hey guys, any ideas?

mr z- which do you prefer? the gt or the nmt? or are they like apples and oranges?

[kedar]

kawamatt- i've dropped quite a bit into Rockette and i'd like to say its been worth it. i can't really give you an exact number, mostly b/c i don't want to know the truth (easily over a grand though).

the engine is an Evo II made by Novarossi exclusively for HPI. it is one wicked .12 engine and i would highly recommend that anyone in search of a .12 powerplant to consider getting one of these bad boys... that is of course, if you can find 'em in stock. i got mine from www.brucknerhobbies.com and i think they are great. they even swapped the carbs (the pull start model isn't supposed to come w/ a slide carb).

http://www.kedar.itgo.com/engineright.JPG
http://www.kedar.itgo.com/engineright.JPG (in case the image doesn't show).

go to my website at the url above to find loads of pics, i have photographically documented this truck's history and it is interesting to see how much it has changed. thanks for the compliments.

[Knightshade]

I don't really have anything new or interesting to say, but I thought this forum needed a new post.

The truck is coming right along, I'm building the shocks now. Schedule permitting, I should be up and running by this time next week.

[kawamatt]

it's not all that much to look at but it is mine. I have since upgraded a few parts mostly for eyecandy.http://C:\download\kawamatt\car4.jpg

[kawamatt]

Well here goes again.

[kawamatt]

Hhahahahahaha it worked. Well that was my second paint job. I used a crude airbrush to do it. And i mad the my own masks to do the buble type things.

here are some of just the truck which i have since up graded.

[AlterEgo]

Hey, nice ride!
:)

Kedar, apples & oranges dude. The NMT is great for bashing & big jumps, i just prefer to race the GT. All the guys at my club run 2wd so it's more appropriate.
The NMT was great on the track also but since there is no class for 1/10 4wd, i can race at a higher competition level with the GT.
JMO
:)
MrZ

[MAXXED]

MT Racer, Hyper .21, Wolfpack Radicals, 2 speed.
Adrenaline rush and spectacular high speed crashes!

http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/145-MAXXED/2%20speed.jpg

http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/145-MAXXED/Hyper%20%202%20speed%20side.jpg

http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/145-MAXXED/Chevy%20body%20Racer.jpg

[kedar]

maxxed, that is pretty sick, a .21 and a 2 speed, wow, your NMT must fly.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Will the STINGER header for TMAXX fit NMT with out any MODS???

[kedar]

nmt_racer_boy, i believe you will need to heat up the header and bend it a bit so that it clears the shock tower.

more photos, click link if they don't load:
http://www.kedar.itgo.com/dodgegrill2.JPG
http://www.kedar.itgo.com/dodgegrill2.JPG

http://www.kedar.itgo.com/mashersfront.JPG
http://www.kedar.itgo.com/mashersfront.JPG

[MAXXED]

kedar,
Those bumpers and lights are pretty cool!
Do any night racing?

[kedar]

http://www.kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html

i wrote a bit about putting together a LED light system there. i don't "race" at night, i just drive around and it is nice to see where your truck is when you are hauling from one end of a parking lot towards you.

[Leinzey]

I'm sure I've said this over at the HPI forum at least once, but I'll say it again...I love your truck. I can't decide on the .15 CV-R or the EVO2, but everyone says it's impossible to find the EVO2, so I'll probably just go with the .15CV-R anyways. I haven't run my truck in over a month, it's sitting on my work table completely disassembled and in bags, but with no engine I have no reason to put it back together:( . And only being 15, I don't have the deepest pockets so I'll have to wait until after Christmas to get my new engine, then it'll be too cold, and I won't be able to run it until spring. But I'm sure you're tired of hearing me whine, so I'll stop. I'm going through withdrawl...

[kawamatt]

maxxed
dude you are the man. I have been waitin for someone to do it so i would know what to do if i ever tried. So give me some details about it. Did everything fit decently or was there some MAJOR mods needed. and have you ruined your gears or are they holding up.

[MAXXED]

kawamatt,
I did a post on a "how to" before the old board crashed.
You can check out the entire set of pics of my conversion on http://www.clikshow.com/rc/. Click on #2 Offroad, then click on .21 MT Racer. If you click on Spazwerks Nitro Garage next to it, you can pull up my e-mail address and send me an email.
I'll go through the do's and don'ts that I experienced in this installation.
Yep, it is insane.
My greatest fear is impacting an immoveable object at the top of second gear. I think it will vaporize into a cloud of nitro fumes!
By the way, it will be up for sale to fund some even more insane projects!

[Blade]

I'm running the above combo and am now just in the initial break in stage, I'm noticing that the brake disc is rubbing on the flywheel and thus, when I apply the brake it also brakes the flywheel causing the engine to die.

I'm pretty new to the nirto field and was wondering if you guys had any suggestions to remedy this situation. Would some kind of spacer to make the brake plates further out from the spur work?

Also, I've noticed alot of play in the front wheels, would upgrading to the aluminum equipment and tie rods eliminate this slop?

Appreciate all your help....

matt

[kawamatt]

I had this very problem and what i did to fix it was just losen the little screws that the brake pads slide on so the dick will be a little farther towards that back or the truck. Once done i had to dial in some more brake because the lever had to be pulled more since the pads were farther away but it all worked out.

[Blade]

I actually found a cool fix for this problems at this site. You'll probably be interested!

www.kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html

Actually move the brake to the front of the tranny.

[AEAddict]

Hey guys.. I found something ya'll might enjoy. goto this site:

http://www.racers-edge.com/

and then go look through the accessories and stuff.. they make MIP CVD BOOTS! They're tight as hell.. I got some.. and they seal the crap out perfectly, cause no extra drag on the joint, and keep the damn pin from flyin out!

Pick yourself up a set and you wont be dissapointed 8-)

Just thought you'd wanna know....................

[Knightshade]

Originally posted by AEAddict
Hey guys.. I found something ya'll might enjoy. goto this site:

http://www.racers-edge.com/

and then go look through the accessories and stuff.. they make MIP CVD BOOTS! They're tight as hell.. I got some.. and they seal the crap out perfectly, cause no extra drag on the joint, and keep the damn pin from flyin out!

Pick yourself up a set and you wont be dissapointed 8-)

Just thought you'd wanna know....................

Hey AEaddict, how are those working for you? Better than shrink wrapping or what?

[kawamatt]

hey guys, when i go to the racers edge site it just has a picture of a t maxx conversion kit but no other links to accesories or any other products. Whats the deal.

[AEAddict]

Well. They're workin awesome. I got em' on all 4 corners of my NMT, and I've driven it through some pretty nasty crap.

The sweetest thing of all, is that you can PACK THEM WITH grease! ... Just like a REAL CAR. Pack the boots with grease, and then put those LITTLE TINY zip-ties around the "edges" of the boot (on both ends). It's awesome. I havent had to rebuild my CVD's for ... umm... since I bought em! I took em apart, just to check wear, and the BLACK "dealie" that rotates in the center hadn't even worn to silver! It's amazing, and they WORK.

I personally.. dont care about a little more "weight" WHOOPTIE DOOO.. 10-20 GRAMS !? On a powerful gas engine it doesnt matter... I can drive my truck ANYWHERE now, and not worry about it!

Anyway, hope that helps!

;)

[AEAddict]

Hey LEINZEY ( I think that's how you spell it) .. you were talking about it's IMPOSSIBLE to find a EVo 2 ? Erm.. no.. i got one in my NMT. That little engine flat FLIES. It likes to be warmed up before you run er' good and hard though (like a sensible engine should). I'm gunna put the powerline head on it soon.. to match my truck 8-)

I got it @ my Local Hobby Haven..

I'd recommend it anyday over a CV-R... my friend's got a CV-R in his stock NMT, and my NMT is mostly stock.. and I beat him all the time. (Either that or I just tuned mine better ? ) .. but anway..

:p

[Leinzey]

I personally didn't say the Evo 2 is impossible to find, but over at the HPI forum, everyone was saying the engine is hard to find. I almost have the money for the engine, so hopefully I can find one. I just want to get my car back together now. Back when my NMT was still up and running, it seemed to have much more drag in the drivetrain than it should. When I let off the gas, it seemed as if I was putting on the brake. I hadn't dialed in any drag brake, and when I gave the car a once over, nothing seemed damaged. Then I decided to completely disassemble the truck and diffs, and still didn't didn't find anything wrong. Should I just clean the car until it shines, reassemble everything and see how it goes?

[Knightshade]

Originally posted by AEAddict
Well. They're workin awesome. I got em' on all 4 corners of my NMT, and I've driven it through some pretty nasty crap.

The sweetest thing of all, is that you can PACK THEM WITH grease! ... Just like a REAL CAR. Pack the boots with grease, and then put those LITTLE TINY zip-ties around the "edges" of the boot (on both ends). It's awesome. I havent had to rebuild my CVD's for ... umm... since I bought em! I took em apart, just to check wear, and the BLACK "dealie" that rotates in the center hadn't even worn to silver! It's amazing, and they WORK.

I personally.. dont care about a little more "weight" WHOOPTIE DOOO.. 10-20 GRAMS !? On a powerful gas engine it doesnt matter... I can drive my truck ANYWHERE now, and not worry about it!

Anyway, hope that helps!

;)



SWEET! I think I'll pick a pair..or two. :D

[AEAddict]

WORD up DAWGG!! lol.. sorry I hadn't posted in some time!



Leinzey.... for your NMT.. make sure you can WIGGLE the brake disc ... quite a bit.. I got mine running so friggin smooth that I can push it lightly and it just keeps goin.. and goin.. energizer bunny style! :p

As for TT engine.. they aint hard to find for me.. but they do cost quite a bit..

but cha get what cha pay for... until today it was running PERFECTLY everytime.. today It didnt wanna stay runnin tho.. dunno why.. lol 8-)

[jobesfzr]

Hello group. I have some questions if you do not mind. I have just about convinced myself to purchase the Nitro MT instead of the Duratrax Overdrive ST. This was mainly due to two factors. 1, the local hobby shops carry HPI and not Duratrax and 2, there is alot more hop up potential of the HPI. Although, a 2 speed gearbox with reverse was really tempting on the Duratrax.

On to the questions. A little background about how I will use it first. I will not be racing it competitively. I have about 100 acres of an off road dirtbike park near me with hill climbs, sandwashes and motocross tracks to play on.

How is the Nitro MT in stock form?
Is it respectively quick with the single speed tranny?
Do the two speed gear boxes hold up to off road use?

And the big question. Is there any weak areas I should address before ever running the truck?

Thank you in advance

Jay

[AEAddict]

Hey new dude.


The NMT flat kicks ass.

It does about 35-40 MPH outta the box (mines faster cuz I got a TT Evo on it) , and it performs well. It's very VERY strong, and has an awesome transmission.

[coolrider]

My NMT is the bomb. I put a 15 tooth cluch bell in it what made a huge drifference than the stock one :) . I also added hard shocks in the back and put the back ones in the front. I also bought a better pipe but it did not make much of a difference:mad:
I can post a picture of it later.(when I want anything else to do than take a picture of it :)).

Later people:)

[AEAddict]

Hell yeah. I put 60 weight oil and ASSOCIATED RED springs front and rear on my shocks. hehehe.... that som-***** flat jumps flatter than a no-breasted lady :p

I got an AE Tuned pipe with a TT Evo .12 on my truck. It's got soooooo much bottem end, but NO top end. lol.




So what's everyone else up 2 ? This thread is gettin DEAD.

Tell me how to post pics on here... and I'll slap up some pics of my custom exhaust solution. hehe

[coolrider]

You should buy a racing cluch so you can chainge it to more top end.:D

[RoadRash]

Here is a pic of my NMT. I like it better the my GT. Will post other pics later of some of the hopups.

[AEAddict]

Damn bro ! What kind of shocks are those? I'm goin for the purple aluminum and the yellow nylon stuff too 8-)

[RoadRash]

There associated shocks with 2stage pistons, handles great with the 2stage, suspension drops out like now but dampens on compression

[dave uk]

Originally posted by kawamatt
Hey fellow racers. Have any of you put in a two speed yet. I am looking it to getting one but i can't find one for the MT racer. I was thinkin about tryin to make an rs4 two speed work but it would be luck if it worked. Any suggestions??

you can get a 2 speed tranny made 4 the nmt from tower hobbies (www.towerhobbies.com) or direct from hpi (hpiracing.com)

[AEAddict]

Hey... speaking of 2 Speeds.... Why cant U take a HPI 2 Speeded- Nitro MT into the dirt? I mean.. like a groomed track or something...

shoot.. all of those new Ofna's, Tamiya's, Kyosho's, and stuff are coming with 2-speeds... and they can go in the dirt. Wouldn't making some form of cover work or something? I mean.. it's just a centrifugal clutch... heh.

Cuz.. I wanted to put a 2 Speed into mine for better top end... but I still want to be able to take it to dusty tracks, and groomed tracks.... and now and then the grass and construction sites and stuff...

lemmie know.. I mean.. I'd really like to know people's opinions on that...

[RoadRash]

The problem with the 2spd and offroad are:
The oneway bearing gets dirty and seizes
When on even the smallest jumps while still in first, as you leave the ground, and the motor picks up rpm and drivetrain freespools, it shifts to 2nd and the wheel increase in speed, then you land at say 15mph but your wheels are doing 30mph, the sudden stoppage while in 2nd gear will not let the flyweight retract, which in turn strips 2nd gear.

Some will have different opinions but that is why I don't run one.

[AEAddict]

Ok...... so U shag a spur every once in a while... ROFL.... those are cheap.. eheh.. I'm thinkin a 2-speed is in store for me! hehe

[RoadRash]

I know guys who use 2spd all the time, but everytime they drive offroad they disassemble the 2spd and clean it.

One other note most of them use for racing and have the shift point set really high so that on the tight twist stuff and short burst, the 2spd doesn't shift. The only time it shifts is on the long straights. When they jump the keep on the gas to keep the front end high and just before it lands the hit the brakes to bring the nose down which in turn slows the drivetrain down to first gear and a slower whell speed.

If you do alot of jumping a slipper is what you need, if not go for the 2spd.

[JAY10203]

not to change the subject here, but i just got my new nmt yesterday and i was wondering, the wheels don`t come with hole`s in them, should i put hole`s in them before i glue the tire`s on? the manual does not say what to do here.

[RoadRash]

What I do is put 2 small (1/16) holes it the rim opposite each other, the seal up the bead area with some slow bond CA.

[Blade]

Tire Mounting Tips
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


One of the most important factors in radio control car racing is properly mounting your tires. We are often asked how mounting your tires can improve vehicle performance. Some of the most important parts of tire mounting are. Putting holes in your wheels to vent the tire. Cutting the foam to fit the tire and wheel properly. Centering up the foam in the tire. Gluing the tire properly and using rubber bands to help hold the tire down onto the wheel while the glue sets up. We have tried to highlight all these factors in the steps that follow so that you to can have perfectly mounted tires every time.


Step #1 - The stuff
This is the stuff you will need to mount your tires: tires, wheels, foam, scissors, rubber bands, quick dry CA tire glue (Pro-Line CA #6000).
*some tires do not require foam inserts


Step #2 - The holes
The first thing you are going to want to do is put holes in your wheels if they do not already have them. We recommend 2 3/16 inch holes in each side of your wheel for off-road and smaller 1/16th inch holes for touring cars. This will allow the tire to breathe and will allow your vehicle's suspension to work more effectively.


Step #3 - The foam
If the tires you purchased are considered a high performance race tire they probably come with foam inserts in that case you should begin cutting the foam to help fit the tire and wheel better. First by rounding the top outside corners slightly and then by chamfering the inside edges. Rounding the outside corners allows the tire to take its more natural shape and makes for a better performing tire. Chamfering the inside allows for clearance in the tire bead area making gluing easier. *If you are using a molded or profiled touring car insert in your tire skip to the next step
*some tires do not require foam inserts


Step #4 - Inserting the foam
Now you should place the foam insert inside the tire making sure it is centered up properly and doesn't have that many wrinkles or kinks in it. *If your foam has a lot of wrinkles in it you can usually work them out with your hands or just let them set out of the tires for awhile and they usually regain their original shape.
*some tires do not require foam inserts


Step #5 - Put it on
You are now ready to put your rim on the tire. Start by sliding the wheel onto the lettering side of the tire being careful not to squish the foam onto one side of the tire. Then make sure you have the tire properly sitting onto the wheel mounting bead area.


Step #6 - The glue
Now you may start gluing the two together. First by setting the tire up on the tread side and rolling back the bead of the tire and applying glue onto the wheel mounting area and bead of the tire. This has to be done quickly because your glue starts setting up in seconds, it's tough but you'll get the hang of it. Continue going around the tire until you've reached the point of beginning understanding that after applying the glue you must put the tire back onto the bead mounting area of the wheel as you do each section.


Step #7 - The rubber band
Now you should take a good stiff rubber band that fits the tire well and put it onto the side you just glued. Then run another bead of glue along where the tire sidewall meets the wheel. Now just let it sit and dry while you do the other tire. Then when it's dry repeat the gluing process on the other side. *Tire glue usually dries best in the sunlight

[RoadRash]

"This has to be done quickly because your glue starts setting up in seconds, it's tough but you'll get the hang of it"

This is why I use the slow bond just incase something does happen and less chance of ruining a good set of tires

That is just my 2 cents

[coolrider]

Hey, RoadRash where did you get that cool bumber??:D

[RoadRash]

Actually I made that bumper. Made out of .080" 6061-T6 aluminum. It doubles as a chassis brace for the front end.

[JAY10203]

thanx for the reply.

[AEAddict]

dude... that bumper is F***in SWEEET :D


So what's up ya'll ? ...... heh...


I went out and drove my truck today... I was runnin through the grass... and my truck was RIPPIN it... heheh..

It was making soo much power that all 4 wheels were spinnin on the dry pavement... heheeh... it was SAWWWEEEET. I can't believe I got it runnin that good... I mean.. it's soo cold my hands were numb, my feet were numb, and same things with my ears...

LOL

hehe..

so anyway..

[AEAddict]

Hey there.

How hard do you guys think it would be to convert my Nitro MT into a Super Nitro Rally? it appears that the only major differences are the A-Arms, the Links, and the drive axles. .. And maybe the shock towers.

Lemmie' know if U think I can do it.. because I'm SERIOUSLY considering it.

[RoadRash]

Yes , the only difference between the 2 are:

- Body mounts
- Shock towers f/r
- drive axles
- steering & camber turnbuckles
- shocks f/r

It would be an easy change over, I was considering this conversion myself.

[AEAddict]

hmmm... kool. I'm thinkin I might try it after the damned snow goes away. God I H8 snow! ahh!

[PCC]

I've done it.

There are a bunch of different parts to do it:
SNRS4 suspension arms
SNRS4 dogbones
SNRS4 wheels
NRS4 front carriers (new style - the NMT uses the old style)
SNR front lower shock mount
SNR rear outer hingepin (unique 36mm length)
SNR body mount tree (has front and rear shock towers and front lower suspension mount)
SNR body
SNR turnbuckles or make your own
SNR tires

You need to reuse from your NMT:
Chassis with engine, diffs, and radio tray
front and rear axles and bearings
front and rear shocks

What you will find is that the car is slow with the same gearing because the smaller tires effectively lowers your final drive ratio. This means that the car will be slower. You can compensate for this by changing the gearing to taller gearing.

I have almost all of the parts available to do this conversion at home and, if you want them I can sell them to you with spare arms and the Subaru body. LMK.

[AEAddict]

PCC... U say that U have all of the parts ? What kind of condition is everything in ? .. How about the Subaru body. ? Is it torn up, or is it still lookin' new ?

I priced everything up, and being used.. it seems that your "conversion kit" would be worth about $65.00 .

If you could, please e-mail me : xcaliber@softhome.net

If U got any pics, I'd LOVE to see them.


Thanks bro!

[jobesfzr]

I finally got a new MT!!:D

Impressions::rolleyes: Solid truck. I found that I needed to completely dissassemble it and reassemble it before I ran it. There were many loose screws throuout the chassis. One shock cap was loose and leaking shock oil in the package. Must have been a 4pm Friday assembled truck :mad: .

Before I even ran it, I installed a T-max header and aftermarket air filter. It is much quicker than a friends MT. These definatly made a difference.

The stock motor mounts, beiing counter sunk, offered no spur gear engagement adjustment. That trashed my first gear within the first jump or two. I replaced the stock mounts with the HPI motor mounts that used the slotted holes in the chassis. Now I can adjust the tolerances. I ran it hard last sunday and the gear survived.

I found, after siezing two rear wheel bearings, that the bearings have very little grease in them from the factory. And this is not even using an entire quart of fuel yet. I am in the process of pulling the rubber seals off, flushing the bearings out with carb cleaner, then packing them with Mobil 1 synthetic wheel bearing grease. I suggest all you do this. Use a small pin or the sharp point of an xacto blade to gently pry off the seals. It is easy.

I also installed the HPI blue springs on the rear. The car is really well balanced now and can run through the rough sections of the MX tracks I play on nice and smooth.

Question for the well knowledged.... Why is the chassis open under the spur gear? It seems that this would allow alot of rocks and such to be thrown up and into the gear causing damage.

So far, I do not see the need of installing a faster motor. This thing is out of my sight too quickly already.

Have a great day guys, I'm waiting for the snow to melt.

Jay

[jobesfzr]

I finally got a new MT!!:D

Impressions::rolleyes: Solid truck. I found that I needed to completely dissassemble it and reassemble it before I ran it. There were many loose screws throuout the chassis. One shock cap was loose and leaking shock oil in the package. Must have been a 4pm Friday assembled truck :mad: .

Before I even ran it, I installed a T-max header and aftermarket air filter. It is much quicker than a friends MT. These definatly made a difference.

The stock motor mounts, beiing counter sunk, offered no spur gear engagement adjustment. That trashed my first gear within the first jump or two. I replaced the stock mounts with the HPI motor mounts that used the slotted holes in the chassis. Now I can adjust the tolerances. I ran it hard last sunday and the gear survived.

I found, after siezing two rear wheel bearings, that the bearings have very little grease in them from the factory. And this is not even using an entire quart of fuel yet. I am in the process of pulling the rubber seals off, flushing the bearings out with carb cleaner, then packing them with Mobil 1 synthetic wheel bearing grease. I suggest all you do this. Use a small pin or the sharp point of an xacto blade to gently pry off the seals. It is easy.

I also installed the HPI blue springs on the rear. The car is really well balanced now and can run through the rough sections of the MX tracks I play on nice and smooth.

Question for the well knowledged.... Why is the chassis open under the spur gear? It seems that this would allow alot of rocks and such to be thrown up and into the gear causing damage.

So far, I do not see the need of installing a faster motor. This thing is out of my sight too quickly already.

Have a great day guys, I'm waiting for the snow to melt.

Jay

[RoadRash]

The hole in the bottom actually lets dirt and rocks out of the chassis area and away from the gear. I have seen alot of NMT with a little deflector on th fwd side of the opening to prevent dirt from being shoveled in from the rear side of the opening.

As for the wheel bearings, clean them and apply a light bearing oil. That is all they need. Too heavy of a grease even synth. grease will cuase alot of drive friction and actually slow your NMT down. You should be inspecting your drive train (and whole truck)before use anyway to find the broken or near broken stuff before it is too late. Your bearings should be cleaned and lubed every once in awhile if you are a basher, if you are a racer more often.

[jobesfzr]

Thanks for the reply. I wondered if that hole below the spur gear was to let stuff OUT. I think I will build a deflector plate just so it keeps some of the big stuff out anyway.

In perfect situations, a little oil is all that is needed on a sealed roller bearing like the ones in the MT. But, beiing a basher of bashers, I need much more protection. Last sunday we ran through snow, mud, soggy sand washes, grass, you name it. The stuff we run is no manicured RC track. I will live with a little drag on the system (and it is really minimal) to have the extra protection. Packing the bearings helps keep water and gunk out as well as lubricating. I have years of off road racing to prove that.... I'm not arguring with you, just another opinion.

Thanks for the reply.

Jay

[RoadRash]

If your running in any type of water situation packing the bearings is the best. But if you are into any type of racing properly lubed bearings could mean placing 1st or settling for 2nd, at least in the stock class, Mod class is a different story.

Have fun bashing:D

[RoadRash]

What do you guys think of my airfilter mod. It actually improved my performance and increased my topend. You can hear the engine rev more than what it use to. With a short tube single filter and a water manometer "T" in, at about half throttle, there was a good vacuum happening which would indicate a restriction at the filter. Pull the filter off no vacuum on the meter. I left the "T" and meter at the same place and rigged up the dual filter set up. At the same throttle position no vacuum. As I said the performance is better and I had to adjust my carb to run a litlle richer at the top end. More air less gas means to lean.

[AEAddict]

my goodness dude. That's awesome. I was thinking of making a "cold air intake" .. almost the same way. I have some of that clear tubing, and I was gunna run some up to the front, and put it right out in front of the truck. Full blast-o air right there! :D

I dunno.. it looks Gh3tto.. but as long as it WORKS.. I guess that's what mattters :cool:

[RoadRash]

Has anyone been running the ball diff from hpi in there NMT. Just wondering how it was holding up with been run a lttile on the tight side for the posi effect.

[E_Mann_2k2]

im askin 4 a nmt 4 x-mas of 2002 that or a t maxx whar r some MUST!!!!! HAVE HOPUPS LIKE IF U DRIVE WITHE THAT STOCK PIECE THE TRUCK WONT GO OR SELF DISTRUCT OR BURN UP IS THERE ANY TIPS ON SET UP IM GETTING THE RTR

[PCC]

AEAddict, yes, I have most of the parts to do the conversion.

I have the front and rear shock towers, front lower suspension mount, front lower shock mounts, rear outer hingepins, suspension arms (no hubs though), and even MIP CVD's for them. The body is in okay shape since I ran the car on asphalt a few times and the tall ride height made it easy to roll the thing. I even have a full set of black star wheels with SNR rally tires, though they're worn down. The only thing about this conversion is that you should change out the front outdrives for Nitro Rush outdrives so that the dogbones don't pop out of them. This helps NMT's, too.

Anyone out there running a 125cc tank? Anyone want to? Let me know and I will tell you how to install one.

[PCC]

Almost forgot. The parts for the SNR conversion are in great shape since I ran it as a SNR about five times total. I just like my NMT more as an NMT than a SNR.

[gabesnmt]

Has anyone had there slipper clutch on there NMT like melt where the gear is touching the shaft? Mine did today, any ideas why?

[RoadRash]

If your slipper clutch is melting, it is because you are running it to loose. Constant slipping will cause excessive heat do to friction just like rubbing sticks for starting fires.

[AEAddict]

Hey guys! I havent been on this thread for a little while. Glad to see all me' fello' NMT'ers still out there. I got some good news... and some bad news...

first up: I'm selling my NMT. Any of U guys want to buy it? ... It's up for grabs.. $265.00 + S&H .. w/ .15FE and mostly brand new Nylon parts.

Second up: I'm saving up for a NMT Racer.. and putting my Thunder Tiger Evo motor in it.

here's a pic of anyone's interested..

Not trying to advertise.. just tryin to see what everyone's up to.. and see if anyway was interested while I was here...

[AEAddict]

Here's a close up of the chassis.. I wont be including the TT Evo though.. I've gotta hang onto that..

[gabesnmt]

I've been trying to send a pic of my NMT but I can't figure out how.

BTW I am using a scanner and pictures I took w/ a regular camera, Any suggestions.

[kedar]

here's a more current pic of my .21 hyper-powered NMT:
http://www.kedar.itgo.com/hypernmttop.JPG
see more of my nmt here: http://www.kedar.itgo.com/nmt.html

read more about the conversion, as well as other tipz, here: http://www.kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html#.21

[AEAddict]

There's an "attach file" thing underneath the "your reply" box. Clik there... and upload your file. It can't be very big though...

[ScMc]

kedar, do you run that truck? or is it just for show

[gabesnmt]

In the past two days I have managed to melt my slipper clutch gear at the point where it is attached to the shaft, and destroyed my regular spur gear (not a single tooth left) that I put back in. I know my slipper wasn't to loose because the nut is still 1/2 turn out from stop. Can anybody help me, it seems that my gear mesh is to tight because it binds a little, but how do I fix it? Thank you.

[PCC]

Let's see. The plastic spur gear appears to be melted at the circlip that holds the assembly together. The three plastic nubs are melted off, too. What engine are you running? Rb X12? Mugen MT12? Bigblock conversion?

The standard slipper clutch does not handle high torque/high HP applications well. Either the slipper slips or the bushing (that the instructions say not to replace with a ballbearing) rubs creating heat, and lots of it. I will have to experiment with my ported 15SS to see if I can get the power up enough to have this same problem (I just broke it in). I know my brother did when he had his OS 21RG in his NMT.

[AEAddict]

N e 1 interested in my truck?

gimmie' a holla' @ xcaliber@softhome.net

$265.00 OBO w/ .15FE, and mostly new Nylon parts.. new drive axles.. new shock towers, gearbox halves.. etc..

[RoadRash]

Hey AE, I don't mean to be rude or anything but there is a section for selling vehicles. I was wondering if this forum could be left to just discussing the NMT and NMTR. Iknow you were just running it by us, but a simple link to your ad in the sell forum would have done.

Again I don't mean to step on any toes.

[RoadRash]

I was reading on the HPI forum and most NMT owners with higher powered engines seem to run the slipper 1 to 2 flats of the nut from tight or full compression of the spring.

Check out the HPI forum and do a search on the slipper clutch. There is alot of info there.

[kedar]

ScMc - of course i run my truck, how else would i be able to test my modz (see "tipz (http://www.kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html) " page)

i've got a cheesy plastic corrogated ramp from duratrax and jump that, usually do all driving on asphault.

[jobesfzr]

Help, please. My baby has developed a nasty habit of start and die. Each time I pull the starter it fires up, starts to rev, then dies. I fully suspect the fuel delivery system. I disconnected the fuel line and started it and there was just enough fuel in the carb to fire, but no pressure developed in the tank to push any fuel out the line.

Here is what I know:
The tank holds pressure.
Fuel freely flows out the bottom fuel petcock.
The expansion chamber (exhaust) is free of blockage.
The fuel lines are new.
The motor is in good shape (dissassembled and inspected)
No grit or obstruction in carbruator.

Any help would be appreciated. Please email me directly as well.

Jay Jobes
jobesfzr@yahoo.com

[tha3rdman]

Yup been there with my sport, change the plug,

[kedar]

jobesfzr - not only should you change your plug, but are you sure your heatsink head is not loose, don't have leaks in your backplate or header (i use permatex oxygen sensor safe high temp sealant for this), and have good fuel.

[jobesfzr]

Guys, thanks for the quick replys. Glow plug was new (used multiple plugs). Yes, the motor is tight with no leaks. I think the issue is in the needle adjustment beiing too rich. I leaned out the needle to get it to start, then richened it up so that it would run on top, that seemed to help. I need to try it a couple of more times to make sure.

What is your guys' needles set at? I know this is subjective to alot of factors. Mine has a Tmaxx header and an aftermarket air filter.

Starting seems to like 1 to 1.25 turns out,
Running: 1.5 to 1.75 turns out.

Thanks

Jay

[gabesnmt]

PCC and ROADRASH,
thanks for the replies, PCC thats exactly what happened with the melting, I am running the Nitrostar .15 (not FE) w/ the HPI stage three upgrade, HPI light weight flywheel and racing clutch, OS big tube matched ported header and Associated tuned pipe. I also snapped my rear center dogbone the other day. Every time I land jumps or hook up with traction I pull wheelies. I keep breaking drivetrain parts.

[RoadRash]

Anytime Gabe

Jobesfzr, Those settings are a little lean. The low speed needle should be around 3 1/8 turns out at full throttle and the high speed around 2.5 to 2.75 out.

If you have been running with those lean settings, and that is the only way it will run, I would be thinking that you are low on compression. Seeing that you checked fuel, glow plug, and the head and back plate are tight.

With the glowplug in, try turning the flywheel with your finger in the correct direction of rotation. If there is no or a little bump of compression it is time for a rebuild.:(

Let us know what you find

[jobesfzr]

The compression feels fine. Heck, the car was brand new on Christmas eve, and I just finished the first quart of fuel through it.

I am running the stock motor with the stock single needle carb. There is no low speed adjustments. At full throttle, I still see a little blue smoke from the exhaust, so it is getting enough fuel. I am more than a little stumped here.

I will play with it a little more today and keep you guys posted. I just picked up parts to build a new throttle/brake lingage system that should greatly improve the stock brakes. I will post a photo when done, if it works. I am basicly copying my friends Kyosho Inferno's setup. That thing will just about stop on a dime.

Jay

[RoadRash]

Sorry I got 2 posts mixed up. I thought you had the nitrostar .15

If it is the FE then you should be around 2.5 to 2.75 turns out.

Try this also: Start then engine let it warm a little if possible, then pinch the line going to the carb till the engine dies. Time this. It should be around 3 secs before it dies. If it dies right away then it is to lean, if it runs after @3secs then to rich. remember this is a guideline to get you in the ballpark then do small adjustments 1 click at a time to get the best setting.

[AEAddict]

No harm done RoadRash. That was a GREAT Sega game by the way .. hehe..

I dont know how to do links on this forum, or I would've.
8-)

Anyway... what's every 1 up to ? .. My truck got a major top end hesitation in er' today... i THINK i found the problem... I started going through the fuel tank, and fuel system.. and I found a piece of junk down by the bottom of the tank, slightly covering up the outlet for the fuel to run to the carb. (inside the tank). It would IDLE fine.. but damn.. absolutely NO top.. it'd fall flat on it's face.. I even richened the hell out of it.. ..

Hmm.. could that be the problem? I got it out.. but dang..

[Vinny]

jobesfzr: does your clutch bell spin freely when the truck isnt running? You may have broken a spring or melted the shoes in there or your pilot shaft may have loosened up.

Just some more things to look at. Good Luck.

[Vinny]

My Nitro MT:

http://www.bronxnitro.com/pics1/nitromt10.jpg

http://www.bronxnitro.com/pics1/nitromt09.jpg

Latest body...

http://www.bronxnitro.com/pics1/nitromt02.jpg

Hop Up List...

OS .12CV Hyper Engine - #OSMG2025
Wolfpack Radicals Motor Mounts - #WLF011P
Wolfpack Radicals Muffler Standoff - #WLF012P
Wolfpack Radicals Lightwieght Flywheel
RB Concepts Tuned Pipe - Black
CEN Manifold - #G70322
Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles
T-Maxx Tie Rod Ends
GS Racing Exhaust Coupler & Fuel Line
MIP Shiny CVD Kit Front - #1274
MIP Shiny CVD Kit Rear -
MIP Racing Clutch - #354
OFNA Throttle Linkage Kit Blue - #10724
GPM Front Top Plate - NMT4015
GPM Threaded Tune Front Shocks - DP90
Traxxas T-Maxx Rear Shocks
Megatech Aluminum Front Shock Tower - #MTC22152
Megatech Aluminum Rear Shock Tower - #MTC22153
Megatech Aluminum Rear Shock tower Braces - #MTC22154
Megatech Purple Aluminum Fuel Filter
HPI Heavy-Duty Aluminum Main Chassis - #73902
HPI Slipper Clutch Set - #72230
HPI Stainless Steel Hinge Pin Set w/Rear Brace - #72171
Replaced bushings in steering arms with bearings
Electronics

Futaba 2PEKA - 2 Channel FM
Futaba Failsafe - #FP-FSU1
Maxx Products - On-board Battery Checker #ACC617
Steering Servo - Futaba High Torque BB Coreless #FP S3904
5 Cell Reciever Humppack

[jobesfzr]

Thanks for all the help you all have offered me with my starting issues. It looks as though the culprit has been jetting. This thing is proving to be majorly affected by the needle position when starting it up cold. I just need to learn it's quirks.

I finished my throttle/brake update with very positive results. I used a Team Losi throttle linkage kits with springs/deadbands instead of the ball cup that came stock. This allowed me to remove the servo saver from the throttle servo. I then hooked the brake arm directly up to the cross plate. This allowed the full pressure of the servo to pull on the brake arm.

I am now working on an update for the brakes them selves. Yeah, I know I can just spend some money and buy an updated brakes disk, but with a full machine shop at my disposal, why not get creative?

Jay

[gabesnmt]

Well I just got a digital cam, how do you send more than one pic at a time?

[gabesnmt]

another...

[AEAddict]

U have to have a hosting site for your pictures or something like that. I just keep making replies with picturs attached to them.. it's about the easiest way... hehe...

[gabesnmt]

Yeah I'll just keep posting replies

[AEAddict]

Nice truck Gabe. 8-)

Erm..

whats everyone up 2 ? this thread is dead lately (oops.. I busted a ryhme.. ! rofl)

[AEAddict]

Here's my klunker

[gabesnmt]

New lights, dirty body.

[gabesnmt]

Is this post still alive? Well here is a pic of my trucks.
Truck on left- HPI F&R alum shocks w/ blue springs, graphite upperdeck, ti turnbuckles, alum steering knuckles, all alum bearing steering, alum front mount plate, OS CZ .12Z w/paris ringed pipe, racing fuel tank, alum skid plate w/ ft bumper, ss hinge pins w/ rear brace and slipper clutch.
Truck on right- HPI ti turnbuckles, alum F&R shock towers, HPI .15 FE w/HPI stage three upgrade, OS big tube header (port matched) AE tuned pipe, HPI light weight flywheel, and racing clutch.
Hpi engine wins in races.

[mild MT]

Hey Mrz, what kind of shocks are those on your truck? Do you like the way they are performing?

[new2nitro]

modifying aluminum upper deck to use radio tray
First off i cant decide where to post this so im just going to post it in the general discussion.
here is my dilema i want to replace my stock plastic upper deck on my HPI NMT but cant decide between getting an aluminum radio tray or a graphite upper deck. If i were to get the aluminum upper deck i would not be able to keep the removable radio tray, but if i got the graphite upper deck i could keep the removable radio tray. My reasons for not just buying the graphite upperdeck are: its more expensive, if it were to break it would be useless. Here's my question could i cut out from the aluminum radio tray an aluminum upper deck? would the aluminum be strong enough for it to do any good? So far i can only forsee 2 difficulties, putting on the "hinge" of the removalble radio tray and also the holes where the tray is secured.

Your thoughts and ideas will be greatly appreciated, Thanks.

Powerline Aluminum Radio Tray
http://www.gpmd.com/images/plrc7009.JPG

HPI Graphite upper deck
http://www.gpmd.com/images/hpic7317.JPG

ive tried this same post in the general forum but have gotten no response, so ill try it here. tell me what you guys think about it.
Thanks

[RoadRash]

I run the G-upper deck and have had no problems. As for the aluminun upper deck you could always lay your stock one on it line up the mount holes then drill through for the radio tray.
If you want you could get the graphite upper to keep your radio tray, then get yourself a thicker lower chassis. It will cost a little more but having the electronics out while cleaning is the best.

[guthriexl]

hey guys, could i put tires that i see on the mt on a rc10gt
im not a really big fan of the tires on the rc10gt and like the realism of the other ones.
thanks

[RoadRash]

Sure, they are just 2.2 truck tires. You can get the same rims as the NMT, just be sure to get a front set, not 2 rear sets.

[jobesfzr]

Hey guys. Is running the Cool Head (or similar) really necessary when it warms up outside? My way of thinking is that the engineers of the .15fe motor designed it to run in any "normal" conditions with the head and supplied cooling that came with the motor. Why should I change it?

Jay

[RoadRash]

The rs4 rtr 3 is out. Has anyone tried or seen the new limited slip front diff it has?
The gearboxes are the same as the NMT, so I assume it will fit the MT. This diff would be perfect for the front and rear of the NMT.

:D