GS Storm Forum

[tbill]

hey all. i just picked up a storm rtr last night. i have 4 HPI savages and 2 HPI nitro m/t's. i started to get the storm ready to go, and ran into a few glitches. the biggest being the throttle control, it's either idle, or WOT. i messed with the TX settings some, but no matter what i do throttle input remains the same, idle, or WOT. am i missing something with the JR radio, or do i have a bum unit?

i suspect operator error at this point, any one have any ideas?

any and all help is much appreciated,

tbill

[StormPilot]

Garen. I just read your bio on the GS site. You and I have turned many a laps together. I ran at Raceprep for 2 yrs. I ran oval and offroad. LOL small world. If interested email and we could chat.


Darin Gray

[Fidelio]

the biggest being the throttle control, it's either idle, or WOT. i messed with the TX settings some, but no matter what i do throttle input remains the same, idle, or WOT. am i missing something with the JR radio, or do i have a bum unit?

i suspect operator error at this point, any one have any ideas?

any and all help is much appreciated,

tbill

look in the radio manual for how to access exponential rate then check your radio to make sure it's not cranked up for some odd reason.

[mattyk6]

Does the XR3i have exponential? I know the XR3 does not.

[Fidelio]

yes, the xr3i has exponential, deadband, dual rate, and i think channel mixing, in addition to the most common list of features like trims and endpoints.

[tbill]

thanks for the input. turns out, as i suspected, it was operator error. i got to messing with the throttle dead band [this is where i went wrong], anything over 50% on this setting and you get the results i had [doop!], got it situated though. now i just need to actually read the manual [directions? who needs those?] and actually utilize all the functions it offers.

other than my initial idiocy with this thing, all i can say is wow! this is gonna be a fun machine! it's my first buggy and after running my savages, this thing turns and stops on a dime, and initially seems [dare i say it] overpowered.

thanks again for the input,

tbill

[Fidelio]

hope you have fun. come on back as questions pop up. :)

[tbill]

well, i guess my next question would be, what are the neccessary mod's needed for trouble free running [bashing/abuse/general torture]? i have modded my savages to the hilt [or very close anyway] and just need some pointers on what to look for on these things to make them a bit more bullet proof.

again, any help is appreciated :)

tbill

[Fidelio]

check out the storm threads here. you'll find just about everything that can be done to bulletproof your car as much as possible.

imo the top items would be pro shock towers (or double up the stock ones), put locknuts and longer screws (not in kit) through the suspension arm mounting blocks, check out the new hinge pin brace kits, and to put screws with nuts on them that hold the wing mount to the shock tower and diff bulkhead (requires drilling diff bulkhead wing mount holes and screws/nuts that aren't in the kit).

those things should help with durability a lot.

[doesgo]

Hey Fidelio, do you have an opinion on running the stock aluminum SUT suspension arm mounting blocks on a Storm buggy? They're not quite the billet Pro versions, but they've GOT to be better than the plastic Storm pieces, no?

[Fidelio]

i'm sure you could run them if you wanted to. however, since you asked for my opinion here it is.

the aluminum mounts aren't all that and a bag of chips. on my buggy i've actually gone back to using the plastic mounts in the front and the using the alum ones in the back.

the reason for this is that if you have the longer screws with the nuts on top to hold the block on, the mount becomes rock solid, so when you take an impact which stresses that area, all that stress is passed on to the parts connected to it (ie. the chassis).

in my case, with the alum blocks in the front with nuts on top, i found i was bending or breaking screw heads almost every weekend. besides the screws, this breakage was stressing the chassis a lot when it happened and finally just ripped the hole open where the screw goes through to mount the block.

after buying a new chassis i went with the plastic blocks in the front. the plastic can flex a little and seems to deal with the normal shocks and bumps of racing better. since i went back to the plastic blocks in the front i haven't bent or broken a screw there yet. and without the screw moving around or breaking, the chassis holes are still in top shape.

one key thing though is that when you put the nuts on the top, whether plastic or alum moun, you want to snug up the nuts, but you don't want to over tighten them. when you overtighten (really crank down) the nut on the top you can stretch the screw and weaken it at the head.

also, if you've ever have had the pins in your cvd's or dogbones move on you then you know it can cut a groove into the plastic sus mount block as it spins. if you stick an alum block in there and that happens it will either bind up your drivetrain something horrible, or it will chew the alum block to hell just like the plastic one. i've had both things happen. however, the plastic blocks are $3/pair while the alum ones are $30 for the storm pro blocks or $12 for the dynamite ones (which are crap anyway imo).

lastly, when you do manage to break a suspension arm with the alum blocks installed you can count on replacing the hinge pin because it WILL be bent where it comes out of the block. with the plastic sus mount blocks i've found it to be about 50/50 whether or not the hinge pin is bent (depending on the severity of the crash). this is just another example of the plastic mount being able to disperse the energy a little better than the alum one.

since the plastic block does flex a little it won't be a precise as the alum block, but in real driving conditions, i hardly think you'd notice.

imo if you want the $bling$ factor, go for it. performance wise, if you have nuts on the top i've found the plastic to be more reliable in the front than the alum block. in the rear i still have the alum block but don't have the same problems back there as with the alum block in the front. however, if they happened to get chewed up from lopsided pins, i'd replace them with plastic rather than spending the money on another alum set.

long winded, but that's my opinion.

[doesgo]

I love long-winded replies! Thanks a ton Fidelio, I love to hear opinions from the "real world".

Funny you mention the broken mount screws, I just broke one on my SUT last weekend. Was the nut too tight? I don't know, but I figured the solution was stainless steel screws, since they're stronger than mild steel. Now I'm not so sure they're the way to go, I'd hate to tear out the mounting holes in my chassis.

You're so right, I'd NEVER notice the difference in driving characteristics from plastic blocks vs. aluminum, I've still never even driven my Storm (need more time!), let alone raced a buggy. And believe me, I don't care one bit about the bling factor, I just want it to be durable and fun to drive.

Okay, I'll go with plastic mounts with longer screws and nuts on the buggy, but would you put plastic mounts on an SUT? Like I said, I've already broken one screw with the stock aluminum mounts installed. Do you think there'd be any strength issues with the additional loads placed on the mounts due to the wheel/tire weight (9oz rather than 4oz on each corner) and leverage (since the SUT wheels/tires stick out farther than the buggy wheels/tires)?

Thanks for the help.

[Fidelio]

for the SUT i think it would be more important to have the hinge pin braces than whether or not the mounts are plastic or aluminum.

the part #'s are:
GS-STP37 - Front Hinge Pin Support Kit
GS-STP38 - Rear Hinge Pin Support Kit
GS-ST098 - 4mm Lower Hinge Pin (62mm) (replacement hinge pins)

Stormer has the Front Hinge Pin kit in stock, but is out of the rear ones at the moment. as far as i know, they're the same, maybe Garen could tell us if he stops by.

Horizon has the replacement pins in stock but none of the kits.

These kits contain hinge pins that are slightly longer than the normal ones and have a groove for a set screw on one end. the other part of the kit is an aluminum piece that slips over the ends of the longer hinge pins once installed and are held on with 2 3mm set screws. this ties the 2 hinge pins together to keep them from spreading apart.

they're made to fit on the pins installed towards the center of the car, but in the front, i cut a slit in my bumper and stuck the brace in front of the diff case.

these hinge pin kits are between $12-14 each and i would highly recommend them to any storm or sut owner.

if my host doesn't flake out, i'll post a pic.

[Fidelio]

unfortunately my host is flaking atm so you'll have to live with a low res forum attachment but you should still be able to make out the braces in front of the front and rear diff cases.

[Fidelio]

another view of the rear brace i cropped for img and file size contraints.

[tbill]

thanks, looks like i need do some reading when i get some free time. it's still pretty new, so i figure once i break the first part, it'll be a good excuse to go nuts at the LHS[:)]. i got out of control with hop up's on my savages, so i have a feeling this storm will go the same route, haha..... does it ever end???

[Gmanlusk2004]

well... seeing your pretty pictures inspired me to clean my storm. i think that's the only time cleaning is ever fun.

[renhack]

Can anyone tell me the dimensions on their radio box? It looks perfect for a custom project im working on. I appreciate it.

Incase you dont know what I'm talking about
http://www.gsracing.com/gsracing/page.asp?pg=products&catid=73&fatherid=56&rootid=0&id=1383

-reN

[Tommy Gunn]

What do you think about the STORM? How would you compare it against the Mugens, Kyoshos, Thunder Tigers and Ofnas. I'm getting an Ofna Ultra GT LX RTR, but my brother and some friends are looking at the Storm. What sort of engine troubles are you having?

I got my oldest son a storm for Christmas. It's run strong after the break in. Starting was a real pain at first. I've got it still rolling smoke on the top end and it still smokes my other sons T-Maxx. I have had problems finding a real connection of people running the storm to exchange ideas.

[doesgo]

There's a newer Storm forum on this website, too. Not a ton of action this time of year, but check it out, there's lots of good stuff there!

[Tommy Gunn]

What do you think about the STORM? How would you compare it against the Mugens, Kyoshos, Thunder Tigers and Ofnas. I'm getting an Ofna Ultra GT LX RTR, but my brother and some friends are looking at the Storm. What sort of engine troubles are you having?

We've had no engine problems once broke in. Was a pain to start at first. Runs strong even when rich. We've broken OFNA aftermarket wheel and the bracket the hub mounts in. We were doing some serious jumping. Oh yea I bent a front shock shaft. I recommend you pulling the Differentials down, all three and putting some ofna oil or the like in it. The stock grease allows it to unload on one side and spin to much. I went thick 10000 middle 7000 rear and 3000 infront. Book recommends lighter stuff though. Stay in touch.

thampton@lexingtonnc.net

[t9dragon]

I just got a Storm SUT and Strom Buggy in trade for an E-Maxx. The SUT is RTR but I need to get a motor for the Buggy, I was wondering which motor I should get. Does anyone know how much a Picco .21 motor signed & numbered by Ron Paris is worth?

[hotrodpablo]

I just got a Storm SUT and Strom Buggy in trade for an E-Maxx. The SUT is RTR but I need to get a motor for the Buggy, I was wondering which motor I should get. Does anyone know how much a Picco .21 motor signed & numbered by Ron Paris is worth?

It depends on how much you want to spend. The ofna hyper 8 port is about $150 from stormer hobbies. Or the XTM 24/7 is decent for the price. if you want to go to the higher side, I just saw a Sirio Kanai version 2 on ebay for about 240. As far as the picco .21, I couldn't tell you.

[ashxxxnt]

do any other body work on the storm rtr plus other than the storm body like the proline 1/8 bodys the stock un panited body is over 30 bucks.

[doesgo]

I've been told the Pro-Line Crowd Pleazer body for the Kyosho MP7.5 works on the GS Storm, not sure if there are any changes to the Storm RTR Plus that would cause it to not fit. I can't imagine there are...

[krisI.925]

Im going to be getting a storm fairly soon and just wondering if there are any imediate upgrades or weak spots I should look out for. I have read that aluminum front arm holders a good upgrades. And I have also heard that the towers can bend and the rear bulk is a little weak. Im getting the plus version and Im just going to be bashing, probably turning it into a truggy.

[doesgo]

For more tips and advice, I'd suggest reading through this entire thread as well as the more-active Storm v2 thread in this Nitro Off-Road section of the RCZone.

As for weak points, the biggest things you should address, in my opinion, are the shims inside the shocks, the arm mount fasteners, and the steering plate.

1) Buy two Yokomo diff thrust bearing sets (ZS-507, I got mine direct from Yokomo) and use the washers (two washers per kit) to replace the thin shims under the pistons in the shocks. The stock shims are way too thin and WILL bend and slide down the shaft allowing the piston to do the same, which means there's no shock absorption. They're only about $3/pair. I'd also get a spare set of shock bladders, just in case. They don't last forever.

2) If the Plus uses the same arm mounts as the old Storm RTR, the mounts are fine, but the fasteners are not! Buy some high-strength 4mm x 20mm flat-head hex-drive Class 10.9 screws and M3 locknuts and use them to replace all of the stock lower arm mount screws. I've sheared the heads off at least six stock mount screws, but since I replaced them all with Class 10.9 screws I've had ZERO problems. Do this ASAP, too, because the longer you wait and the more screws you bend or break, the harder it is on your chassis. I do sell these screws (and many other metric high-strength screws) or you can get them elsewhere if you like. $1.75 for a pack of 10 for the screws, $1 for a pack of 10 M3 locknuts.

3) Get the Storm Pro/SUT Pro steering plate (#GSCSTP04) or get another RTR plate (#GSCST035) and stack two together. The stock single RTR
plate is too weak and will bend after a couple nose-down landings. I made two additional ones out of some scrap aluminum I had and JB Welded
them together so mine is basically triple-thick. You'll need to countersink the holes and use flat-head screws to clear the upper arm hinge pin holder. The Pro plate (with bearings) is around $23, an RTR plate is $8.

I believe the Plus shock towers are thicker than the old Storm towers and probably won't be a problem. If you're unconvinced, buy some Storm Pro towers which are made of 7075 aluminum. The bulkheads are pretty tough in my opinion, I've only broken one in my Storm (none in my SUT) in over a year and that one breakage was thanks to some MAJOR air and a horrible landing.

All of those fixes are pretty cheap and will really help your Storm survive a lot of use and abuse.

Have fun!

[krisI.925]

alright thanks. Doesnt seem like theres to many flaws in the kit. I know every model has some, just as long as there easy and cheap to fix.

[doesgo]

I agree, there aren't too many flaws and believe me, if there were more I'd have found them after a season of racing and anther season of tough bashing. It's not indestructible, of course, but it's pretty darn good for the price.

[krisI.925]

Also one more question. Does anyone know if the hot bodies lightning body fits this buggy?

[hotrodpablo]

Also one more question. Does anyone know if the hot bodies lightning body fits this buggy?

I don't know if the hot bodies one will fit, but I have used the inferno 7.5 crowd pleaser body on mine. It just requires a little trimming.

[Phoenix666]

Help
I bought a gs storm plus yesterdag after the first tank of breaking it in.I filled it up again and went to start but it wouldn't.does anybody have any advice for a first timer.

[t9dragon]

Check your glow plug to see if it is bad. Or maybe your glow ignitor isn't igniting the plug.

[Phoenix666]

Check your glow plug to see if it is bad. Or maybe your glow ignitor isn't igniting the plug.


Thanks for the help. I checked out what you said and found out that the ignitor was no goed.now she runs like a dream.

[t9dragon]

Glad to help!!!!!!!!!!!!

[netingit]

ok this may sound really stupid but please am beggin you bear with me

i brought my gs storm about last year feb, and up till now i been having problems. I've never got it running properly due to the carb been shot or somthing like that, brought a need carb ( cheaper to buy the whole engine then this carb) and now am stuck. i've never played with this type of carb before if i turn 1 screw to much it locks the carb.

any way which screw is which. i mean who's the idle and who the low speed. Am lost completly.?

it dumb but i gotta ask,

[doesgo]

Sounds like you're moving the idle speed screw when you should be messing with the high-speed and low-speed screws. The idle screw is quite small and is usually on the front (away from the engine) of the carb. The high-speed needle is at the top of that tall housing where the fuel inlet resides, and the low-speed needle is usually in the center of the slide where the throttle linkage attaches.

The idle speed screw should be adjusted so it prevents your carb slide from closing completely. It should slide closed until there's about a 1mm opening between the slide and the carb housing.

The high- and low-speed needles should be set according to your instruction manual (which probably also includes instructions for setting the idle-speed screw as well).

[netingit]

thanks doesgo,

i did'nt buy the model brand new so received no manuals. am trying to use quickfire 16% but any recommonds?

[netingit]

now you metion the low speed screw metioned near the linkage is the one which am messing around with. (well really all of them) If i tighten the screw it locks the carb but leave a 1mm gap

[t9dragon]

i did'nt buy the model brand new so received no manuals. am trying to use quickfire 16% but any recommonds?

Here is a link to the GS website for the manual for the GS Storm Buggy.
http://www.gsracing.com/gsracing/downloads/manuals/Storm%20RTR.pdf

[netingit]

thanks :)

[Phoenix666]

If the pullstart is pulled out to far and will not retract,how much damage could that cause?

[t9dragon]

There shouldn't be any damage. Your oneway bearing might be going bad or it is stuck against the back plate. I had this same problem with my Revo.

[Phoenix666]

what is then the best and easiest way to fix it.

[Phoenix666]

There shouldn't be any damage. Your oneway bearing might be going bad or it is stuck against the back plate. I had this same problem with my Revo.


wat is then the best and easiest way of fixing it.

[t9dragon]

If you loosen your glow plug will the pull start recoil?

[Phoenix666]

If you loosen your glow plug will the pull start recoil?

no i just tried it but no go.

[jnco05]

they are verygood i just bought one a week ago it is very fast and has no real big problems at all. i also bought for 340,which is very cheap in the 1/8 gas buggie market.It is good for people who want good price

[t9dragon]

If the pullstart is pulled out to far and will not retract,how much damage could that cause?

Did you find out what the problem was?

[Phoenix666]

Did you find out what the problem was?

I pulled it apart and rewound the spring.after i put it back together i took it for a run but now when i start it it only turns the motor for the first few centermeters and doen't suck feul in the engine when i pull.any tips?

[ashxxxnt]

hello ive got a storm rtr plus. what set up are you guys running on dry dirt tracks. like camber and shock mounting. im pushing realy bad. even puttting in 5 7 2 in th diffs but i think my probs in the throw of the servos. ive just not seen any set ups for this buggy. also does any one thave a avenger rtr just wonderring how that one does thanks. A

[f2k]

Hi guys,

I just got a Storm. It’s a great car – except for the pull start that lasted less than 30 minutes.

Have any of you replaced the pull start with a shaft start?

[doesgo]

How about a starter box? Much more useful and can be used with multiple vehicles. That said, I have used a shaft-start on my GS SUT with the GS25 engine and it worked fine. I believe the backplate is the same on the GS 21B01 engine so the HPI backplate should work (that's what I used on the SUT engine), but I can't promise anything. Also works on the XTM 24.7.

[f2k]

I guess it’s just for the ease of it. A starter box just seems too big and unwieldy to carry around when backyard bashing with your friends.

[doesgo]

Yeah, that's true. Well, maybe check OFNA's site for a RotoStart backplate for the GS engine? I'm pretty sure the one for the Savage 25 will fit, but I've never actually tried it.

[mwahaha91]

The Rotostart for the Savage 21/25 will work on the GS 21 engine. For those who have problems with pullstarts being lost, cut out a lil square next to the engine hole in the body to let the pullstart come out of the body. Do NOT run the buggy without the body. That's an almost sure way to lose your pullstart.

If you aren't sure what I mean, here ya go.
Oh yea, thats an S-25, but you can do the same with a GS21.

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/6179/buggy1sr.jpg

[FreeRideJunkie]

I will probably be spending some time here in the future so I figured I should introduce myself. I will be getting a GS Storm in the near future loaded with a picco .26. I'll try to get some pics up after I get it and paint a body for it. Just figured I'd say hey.

[doesgo]

Sounds like fun, and welcome! I've got a Picco .27 in mine right now, those big Piccos can really push a buggy along nicely!

[FreeRideJunkie]

If I want to convert it to a truggy in the future... what all do I need to get as I can't seem to find a conversion kit for it???

Thanks,
Dan

(And it will be here Monday... I cant wait)

[mwahaha91]

If you want to do a truggy conversion, you just need to get hub extenders, SUT body posts, and some nice 14mmhex truck wheels/tires. No need to buy the rediculously expensive conversion kit.

[thedarkness]

dont forget the 54 tooth spur gear,center diff plate,the spacers for the diff, and shock towers.

[mwahaha91]

Well i don't think the spur gear exchange is TOO neccesary as the storm is geared for much accelaration in the 1st place.

[t9dragon]

Here are some pics of my Storm Truggy. It is a Storm buggy with the Hardcore Titanium chassis, front & rear shocktowers, brake calipers, front bulkhead brace, center diff brace, servo tray, steering link and hyper laminate brake disk, Ofna 17mm Dominator wheels w/ Proline Bowtie tires. Plus some other upgrades.

Pics of when I got it.
http://a5.cpimg.com/image/DB/51/45015515-8b5c-02000180-BB.jpg

http://a1.cpimg.com/image/E1/51/45015521-d57d-02000180-BB.jpg



Pics with the upgrades.
http://a8.cpimg.com/image/00/BD/52304128-7971-028001E0-.jpg

http://a5.cpimg.com/image/FD/BD/52304125-2350-028001E0-.jpg

Here is a picture of it next to my Mammoth ST.
http://a8.cpimg.com/image/1E/BE/52304158-c714-028001E0-.jpg

[FreeRideJunkie]

I got my Storm today and it's a beauty. It has upgraded shock towers and pretty good JR servos. Now I just need to get my Picco .26 tuned as it was very humid and made for difficult tuning. I'll try to get pics up after the body is done and it's running well.

BTW... how is the Picco to tune??

[FreeRideJunkie]

Allrighty...

I got some run time in on the Storm today and all I can say is the thing is awesome. I have the Picco set up pretty well (The low speed is set slightly lean and my high speed is a little rich). It starts and idles real well and is running very cool. (I didn't temp it but I can easily hold the head for a few seconds) It has plenty of pop off the line and a nice cloud at full throttle.

The buggy seems to have endless traction as well. This leads to the only question that I have right now... How do you guys run your sway bars as it seems as though as I go to turn it either wants to or does tri-pod and will ocassionally traction roll withou much effort.

Other than that... I'm officially hooked on 1/8! :-)

[FreeRideJunkie]

Still kind of wondering about the sway bar setup but also have one other noob question... When I hit the gas there is more power to the front wheels than the rear meaning that I need to adjust the center diff. How do I do that so that the power is equal or so that there is slightly more power to the rear??

[mwahaha91]

Hmm, that is quite unusual. I would think that one of your bevel gears are starting to strip in the rear diff if that's being an issue. Are you running any silicone oil in the diffs?

[FreeRideJunkie]

What?? There isn't a way to adjust the power to the front or rear on a storm?? And I'm not sure what is in the rear as I got it in a trade. I just figured it had to do with the center. When I fealt the rear diff everything fealt fine... no slipping and was getting good power transfer from the center drive axle.

[mwahaha91]

Usually, the center diff unloads and too much power is sent to the rear. I don't know in what situation your front would be getting more power. There is no way to "adjust" the torque from front to rear, but to increase more stability with your center diff, use a heavy silicone oil.(10,000)

I still think there are gears stripping in the rear diff. I don't think it's an issue of power distribution, but an issue of power loss due to transmission issues.

[FreeRideJunkie]

Dang... I thought for sure I would be able to feel it in the back but I don't. I will take it apart and look though. If thats the case what would it cost to replace??

[mwahaha91]

it would cost 6.49 for a set of internal bevel gear. If it's the ring gear, it'll cost 5.50

[mwahaha91]

Anyone know if this is compatible with the storm?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKGN6&P=7

[FreeRideJunkie]

I went to the LHS that deals a lot with GS and they said it is all fine that it is just the way the storm is. He said I could always put heavier diff flluid in but that everything else looks spot on.

And I need to say this thing is pretty durable. I flipped the thing and rolled it about 10-12 times and the only thing that happened was the motor moved over a lttle bit and I lost one of those big e-clips for the wing. I think I may give up on those and just let the wing wobble a little bit with regular body clips... I'm not sure.

[mwahaha91]

Use locking body clips for the wings. They're like a miracle.

[FreeRideJunkie]

Use locking body clips for the wings. They're like a miracle.

???Do you have a pic or a link to these???

[mwahaha91]

Sure i do

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBDE1&P=ML
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPM51&P=7

[FreeRideJunkie]

I see... that looks like it would keep the wing from wobbling as it does with the regular body clips but also not fly off as the E-clips do in a crash...

[mwahaha91]

Just use some o-rings to stabilize any wing wobble if you have any.

Or if you don't have locking pins, take regular ones and ziptie the end together.

[mwahaha91]

:) :rolleyes: :p :eek: :D

http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/7857/stormtruggy0016ke.jpg
http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/1012/stormtruggy0024ys.jpg

Thanks to imageshack for the pic hosting.

This is what "following the bandwagon" really means :cool: ahahaha, this setup is tearing it up. Can't wait to get my body and bodyposts.

[Phoenix666]

Ever since i've had my storm it runs too hot after about 10 minutes.does anyone have any ideas.

[knucklebusta]

Can anybody post some pics of their GS Storm. I'm thinking of getting the pro model, but I need pics. I will pay somebody $10 to put up pics. I will send $10 to your paypal. I am sick of buying stuff sight unseen. I want pics with the body on of the left, right side, front, back, front left diagonal, front right diagonal.

Thanks, Kevin

[Phoenix01]

Can anybody post some pics of their GS Storm. I'm thinking of getting the pro model, but I need pics. I will pay somebody $10 to put up pics. I will send $10 to your paypal. I am sick of buying stuff sight unseen. I want pics with the body on of the left, right side, front, back, front left diagonal, front right diagonal.

Thanks, Kevin

Do you still need pics? I just happen to have several pics of mine.

[FreeRideJunkie]

I have a storm buggy and am having one small problem with the left front drive axle/CVD pivot where it is in the hub. (The nice spinny ball type thingy inside of the silver hub carrier) There is a pin in there that is supposed to stay centered so that it can spin freely. Well mine keeps sliding out locking the wheel up. (It can rotate back and forth about 180 degrees untill the pin catches in the hub carrier.)

I think I explained it ok. I would like help ASAP as I may have a buyer lined up and this is the only problem that I am having.

Thanks,
Dan

[FreeRideJunkie]

Here... to make it easier:

The drive shaft that goes in here:

http://h1071118.hobbyshopnow.com/ProdInfo/GSC/450/GSCST020-450.jpg

This piece:

http://h1071118.hobbyshopnow.com/ProdInfo/GSC/450/GSCST023-450.jpg

That pin that you see on the portion of the pivot is the one that keeps sliding out. Do I need new driveshafts?? I really don't want to drop anouther $35-$40 to sell the car for about $250...

[doesgo]

You could try removing the grub screw and locktiting it again, but it's hard to say whether that will take care of it. Probably, but not guaranteed. Some people put shrink tubing round the outside of the portion of the socket as well, with the idea that it will help retain the pin.

Also, you don't have to pay that much for replacement CVDs, you can get Dynamite direct replacements for $19.99 here: http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=69_34&products_id=510 No pictures available at the moment, but I can get you one.

[smoky]

whats up guys i am in desperate need of an instruction manual for the storm if anyone has one they dont need or can make a copy of one or anything i would gladly pay shipping if anyone can help thanks alot!!!!!!!!!!!11
smky213@msn.com

[t9dragon]

whats up guys i am in desperate need of an instruction manual for the storm if anyone has one they dont need or can make a copy of one or anything i would gladly pay shipping if anyone can help thanks alot!!!!!!!!!!!11
smky213@msn.com

Sent ya an email.

[smoky]

Sent ya an email.


never got an email sorry. ya sure ya sent it right its smky213@MSN.COM

[Phoenix01]

You can download it also.

[t9dragon]

I resent the email did you get it?

[smoky]

where can i download it from

[Phoenix01]

Here's the link for you......... http://www.gsracing.com/gsracing/downloads/manuals/Storm%20RTR.pdf

I hope that helps. If you can't get it, let me know and I'll see if I can find one of my extra copies. Also, you can go to GS Racing and download the SUT race manual. Even if you don't convert to the SUT, it has a lot of good hints as to how to make certain things on your car work better.

[Gismo]

Hello,

My Storm is 4 Days old today. Haven't run it on road. Still bussy setting it up and getting it ready. Awsome CAR! Anyone know where to buy the upgrade parts?

Thanks

[doesgo]

www.smfstore.com has some here: http://www.smfstore.com/index.php?cPath=69_34 and will be adding a few more in the next few days (Storm Pro front shock tower, GS rear universals, and Dynamite lower arm holders and front upper arm holder).

You can also find Storm parts at Stormer Hobbies, last time I checked.

[smoky]

i saw a rear exhaust system on ebay and it looked really cool. o was wondering if anyone has any exp with these or any opinionson them. if you do let me know right now i run a cvec pipe. with the stock engine.

[Phoenix01]

I have the Option Team shock towers that I will sell for $20 plus shipping. I paid $60 for them then almost immediately converted it to the Truggy.

[cableguy69]

Anyone know where I could find a bumpy track set-up sheet for the storm Pro?

or any good set up sheets for the Pro?

[t9dragon]

Anyone know where I could find a bumpy track set-up sheet for the storm Pro?

or any good set up sheets for the Pro?

Here is a link to some downloads available from GS
http://www.gsracing.com/web/page.asp?pgs=downloads

[f2k]

Guys, I could use some help here…

Some three months ago I bought a Storm from a guy I know. He’s the man who taught me to fly RC-Airplanes, so when he offered me the Storm, I trusted him. It used to belong to his son, but apparently he lost interest in it. Well, his loss, my gain – the car was dirt cheap and tricked out. New servos, new radio gear and the biggest engine that could be shoehorned into the car (a R25MT engine he said).

So, I took it home, bought some fuel and headed to the nearest football field. And that’s when the trouble began…

It took me half an hour tugging that *bib* pullstart before the engine finally roared to life. And man, what a life! The car runs faster than a rocket! Well, perhaps not, but on a small field, it sure felt that way. Anyway, after five minutes or so, I stopped the car to check if everything was ok. After all, it had been a while since it had run last. I looked the car over, was satisfied with what I saw, put it down, and tugged the pullstart. Nothing. Tugged again. Still nothing. Tugged a third time. The pullstart refused to recoil into its housing. Swearing profoundly, I wowed never to use a pullstart again and made a mental note to visit my local hobby-shop looking for a shaft start.

Fast forward nearly three months. I’ve been very busy, so I haven’t had a chance to look at it. Deciding that I wanted to run the car at least once before we got a heavy snowfall, I took the day off and worked like a madman to get the shaft starter installed.

Several hours later, the shaft start was finally installed. So, fuel in the tank, battery in the starter, and I was ready.
Inserted the shaft into the rear of the engine, placed a thumb over the exhaust, and gave the starter a few blibs to prime the engine. Nothing. Absolutely nothing. Looking suspiciously at the car, I removed the fuel line from the carb to check if there really wasn’t any fuel or if I was simply going blind. Well, thankfully for me, it was the former. Hmm, why was there no fuel going to the carb? Inserted the starter and tried again. Nothing. Hmmm, this was getting annoying. Tried a third time. Still nothing.

Ok, so, what can prevent fuel from flowing to the carb? No fuel in the tank? Naah, just filled it to the brim. A kink in the fuel line? No way, the fuel line runs smoothly from the tank to the engine. No compression in the engine then? Hmm, I hope not. Took the shaft out of the starter, placed my thump over the exhaust and slowly turned the engine over…

Put… put… put… put…

Where the *bib* did that sound come from?

Checked the coupling between the exhaust and the engine. That was as tight as the spring can hold it. Checked the glowplug. Seemed ok. Changed it just to be sure.

Ok, third time lucky. Shaft into the engine, thumb over the exhaust, and a few blibs on the starter. Nothing. Absolutely nothing.

What the *bib*?

At this point in time, my patience was wearing rather thin. Ok, what to do. Hmm, how about priming the engine manually? So, disconnected the pressure line from the exhaust and blew into it. That did the trick! Fuel was flowing into the carb. Ok, so far, so good, reattach pressure line to the exhaust, insert shaft, insert igniter and engage the starter.

Put… put... puuuuut… brrrrrr… brrrrrrr… brrrrrrrr!

Yes, now we’re talking, the engine turned over and roared to life. Finally! Gave a few blibs on the throttle to bring the engine revs up, removed the igniter and the starter.

Brrrrr…. rrr… … …

Huh?

Hmm, must have removed the igniter to early. Not enough revs to keep the engine running… Inserted igniter and starter again…

Brrrr… brrrrrrrrrr… brrrrrrrrrrr!

Lifted the car from the table and gave it full throttle…

BRRRrrrrr… BRRRrrrrr… BRrrrrrr… rrrr…

Hmm, that doesn’t sound like full throttle to me. And sure enough, the moment I removed the starter, the engine died…


So, that’s the status of my car. It won’t prime and it won’t run on its own. And there’s still that annoying put put sound when I turn the engine over. It’s as if there’s no real compression in the engine. But why?

[t9dragon]

I would replace the fuel lines. Sounds like you might have a tiny hole in one of them. I would replace the glow plug with a brand new one.

[mwahaha91]

Sounds like an airleak if your engine won't prime. It could either be in:

1. The engine (Hope not!)
2. The fuel tank
3. The fuel lines
4. The exhaust system.

Check to make sure every single part is airtight.
Oh, and make sure your carb is open 2mm. If its fully closed, nothing happens.

[f2k]

Well, I’m back… and I’ve got some new glow plugs and fuel line with me…

Good news is that I can now prime the engine without any problems.

Bad news is that the engine still refuses to run without the starter inserted into it.

I’m beginning to wonder: is the starter perhaps too weak? Does it take a certain amount of force to actually fire the engine up?

Strange thing is, I can hear the engine firing when the starter is running, but as soon as I remove the starter, the engine dies…

[doesgo]

I agree with t9dragon. If that doesn't work, try removing the high-speed needle assembly and cleaning it out. A small piece of grit in there can block fuel flow significantly. And make sure you use an in-line fuel filter!

[doesgo]

I'd definitely say a glow plug if you hadn't just installed a new one. Still could be, I suppose, but it's unlikely. Any chance your low-speed needle adjustment is somehow way too rich?

There's a certain force required to spin the engine over and it also needs enough starting rpm to get the thing fired up. If you have a weak battery in your starter motor it'll certainly be more difficult to spin the engine over fast enough.

It costs money, but I'd invest in a starter box if I were you. They're wonderful and really can eliminate some hassles!

[f2k]

Well, the guy I bought it from claimed that the needles were spot-on. And I must say, that the one time the car actually ran, it ran very well. But that, of course, is no guarantee that it runs well now… :-(
Can you guys talk me through the tuning of the engine? I might sound stupid, but I’m more used to reliable single-needle aircraft engines – this three-needle business is a new thing for me…

I haven’t got a fuel filter on the car – yet. Unfortunately, the local hobby-shop didn’t have any at the moment. Any particularly filter that you would recommend? Does it even matter? I’ve never had one installed in my aircrafts...

As for the starter box: the reason I went with a hand starter was that I don’t want to carry a big and heavy starter box with me when I’m backyard bashing. But all this trouble is really getting on my nerves…
Ok, so if I were to buy a starter box, what should I be looking for? Would any starter box do the job, or are there certain requirements? And if I use a starter box, I’d have to remove the starter assembly form the rear of the engine, right? And then I’d have to get a standard rear-plate, right? But, that plate wasn’t included with the car, so where do I get it from? What kind of brand would fit the engine?

Man, I’m sounding like a real idiot here. But the thing is that this is my first nitro car, and so far it seems that tuning aircraft engines and tuning high-strung car engines are two very different things…

[Gismo]

I had some GREAT jumps today with my car. Now I'm looking for some help. A while back, I saw some sort of camera that you can put on you're car and then record. The thing is, I can't remember on what site it was. It record audio as well.
Can anyone help perhaps?

Thanx

:cool:

[Phoenix01]

You might try Slapmafro.com and places similar to it. I have seen some onboard stuff on their site. They might be able to help.

[doesgo]

Yeah, at SlapMaFro! we tried the on-board camera (video only, no audio) and it didn't work very well. It was fun to mess around with, but the range was poor and transmission quality wasn't too good even within range. We were pretty disappointed.

[Gismo]

Hello All.

Thanks for the help and speedy reply. Okay, here is my next question:

What type/number glow-plugs do you use? I've tried a R4, but seems to be to cold - Need to be idle for a long time. Tried OS No8, but don't last. A dealer told me today I must try OS No5. I'm just testing the system here and see if someone had the same problems before.

Thanks

:confused:

[t9dragon]

Try the McCoy #9 plug.

[smoky]

wassup fellow storm owners ive been using my storm to bash with and its worked great. bbut i think its time for a diff rebuild and i wanna use diff fluid can u guys give me a ballpark figure of weights of oil just for bashing around. plus iwas wondering if anyone has used the gs monster truck conv kit im thinking of getting it cause i do just use it to bash with and i was thinking it would help with ground clearanceand stuff just make it a better basher. any opinions would be graet thanks guys.

[smoky]

ok well can someone tell me what configuration receiver pack they use i need a new one and the one i had didnt fit very well in the box?

[t9dragon]

wassup fellow storm owners ive been using my storm to bash with and its worked great. bbut i think its time for a diff rebuild and i wanna use diff fluid can u guys give me a ballpark figure of weights of oil just for bashing around. plus iwas wondering if anyone has used the gs monster truck conv kit im thinking of getting it cause i do just use it to bash with and i was thinking it would help with ground clearanceand stuff just make it a better basher. any opinions would be graet thanks guys.

The best starting point for your buggy is 5k in front, 7k in center, and 1k in rear you can also try 3k, 4k, and 1k for a smoother feel.


ok well can someone tell me what configuration receiver pack they use i need a new one and the one i had didnt fit very well in the box?


I use a five cell hump pack,the pack is made by Ofna.

[doesgo]

Yep, I also use a 3x2 hump pack in my Storm and SUT.

[Phoenix01]

Me too.......fits fine

[cableguy69]

I built a 5 cell energizer 2500 mah pack. It fits but you need to take the top off, put it in, put the top back on, and have a relatively small reciever. To do this you also should have a charge jack in your on/off switch so you don't ever have to take the pack out.

It lasts forever... and a 4 pack of those batteries are only 7.99 at our local grocery store, so probably $10.00 for the pack.

[smoky]

Thanks for the help guys i have one more question? can you guys help me out with the factory needle settings for the engine break in?

[Phoenix01]

I'm afraid I can't be much help there. I haven't used my stock engine in so long that I forgot the factory settings. If I ever start my factory engine again, I'll probably start out around 2 1/2 or 3 turns out and tune from there.

[sailUSVI]

Hello I am 12 years old and kinda new at this. I have had about 2 runs out of my storm and the pull cord broke.I dont know what kind of starter box to get. What kind of battery I need?(a gel?) I also dont know what kind of plate to put where the pull cord was. Could one of you please tell me where to get all of this? and please could you tell me what you are now using to start your storms and what brand?

[doesgo]

Most starter boxes will work great on a 1/8-scale buggy, including this OFNA box. (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=84_92&products_id=431) And here (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=84_92&products_id=432) is a gel cell for it. Definitely go with a gel cell. Running two stick packs gives you more voltage, but they die relatively quickly while you can get a LOT of time between gel cell recharges.

No need to do anything with your pullstarter, you can leave it right there on the engine if you want. You can even use a starter box on an engine that has a functioning pullstarter installed for the best of both worlds.

[sailUSVI]

Thankyou.(T-T)

[Gismo]

Hello All,

Hope the festive season is good to all. Had some great fun with the Storm today, but my pull-starter broke again. Is there a Roto Starter 1 can buy for these cars?

Hope someone can help.

Thanks

[Phoenix01]

My cord broke relatively soon after I got my Storm. I just went with the starter box and left the pull start cover on and now I have replaced the engine, and definitely need the box. If you are planning on racing, a starter box is a must. The stock B01 engine can be very trying to start at times. As far as roto starts, I am not aware of one for the storm engine. If you look at the prices, you can buy a starter box for just a little more than the cost of repairing the pull start, plus, repairing the pull start is a pain in the azzzzzzz!

[doesgo]

I TOTALLY agree! Get a starter box and you'll be very glad you did. I'm even able to use the same starter box on four of my vehicles, which makes it cheaper than the handheld starter units. Also, the handheld units still rely on one-way bearings, which just don't last very long.

[Gismo]

Hello,

Thanx for the quick reply, but it seems I got my problem fix. The guy at the Hobby Shop gave me an HPI Roto Backplate and... It works 100%. If someone want to try it, I'm including the pics.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/GS_Storm/Image1.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/GS_Storm/Image1.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/GS_Storm/Image2.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/GS_Storm/Image2.jpg

O, posted both links. Not sure what 1 will work here.

Cheers.

[Phoenix01]

Thanks for the info Gismo. I may get a roto start for the B01 just to have it. I really hate having incomplete equipment even if the pull start isn't needed.

[sailUSVI]

Frist I am 12 years old and kinda new to gas and dont know any thing at all about tuning and I have a question. I have a storm and got a starter box and it works fine and will start the car and the glow igniter works fine but when I set the car on the ground ang give it some gas all the way it goes like 2 miles an hour and then dies. Anyone know what
causes this? please answer soon.

[smoky]

hey all my storm is running pretty good. i was wondering if anyone has an aftermarket body on theres and if so what kind is it im looking for a different body that will fit on it. plus again anyone have any thoughts exp witrh the monster truck conv kit?

[t9dragon]

Frist I am 12 years old and kinda new to gas and dont know any thing at all about tuning and I have a question. I have a storm and got a starter box and it works fine and will start the car and the glow igniter works fine but when I set the car on the ground ang give it some gas all the way it goes like 2 miles an hour and then dies. Anyone know what
causes this? please answer soon.

You should take it to your LHS and have them show you how to set the LSN and HSN needle settings.

[sailUSVI]

I dond have a LHS the closest is 1 hour and my parents dont want to go to Austn just to get a part or learn how to tune

[Cesarjjc]

I just bought a used one and the body on is broken. Anyone knows of any aftermarket body out there that will fit. I figure that the proline Crowd Pleazer 2.0 will fit. Thanks

[t9dragon]

I dond have a LHS the closest is 1 hour and my parents dont want to go to Austn just to get a part or learn how to tune

Here is some information that might help you with tuning the motor.

USA
GS Racing
14140 Live Oak Ave., Unit D
Baldwin Park, CA 91706, USA
Website: www.gsracing.com
E-mail: sales@gsracing.com
Tel: 626-338-3815
Fax: 626-338-3875

GSB01 and GSB01P Factory Needle Settings

Q. One of the most frequently asked questions is "What are the factory settings for my GS engine?"
If you are asking this question, it is more than likely because you have tuned your engine right out of tune. Here are the factory settings, but please read further for some valuable information.

A. Bottom End (Low End)- 3.5 turns out

High End (Top End)- Just under flush with the brass tube

Idle- Set the gap inside the carb at 0.7mm to 1.0mm

DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN NEEDLES, AS YOU WILL RIP THE O-RINGS!
Factory Settings are not the fix-all answer to engine tuning problems. These settings will likely set your engine rich, and may not work under the conditions you are in. There are many variables which we can not control. Variables include type and percentage of fuel, type of glow plug, length of fuel and pressure lines, ambient temperature, barometric pressure, humidity, and even your level of experience and knowledge level. Many of the calls we receive regarding engine tuning problems, engine quality issues, and engine performance issues are due to the mistakes made by the user. Often, the caller will blame problems on a "defective" engine and later admit to not knowing the difference between the high and low needles.

Here are some tips to help tune your engine, read on even if you are an experienced racer.

1- The break in process is the most crucial time in the life of an engine. Take care not to over rev and over heat an engine during this time. Conversely, do not take too long to break in an engine, as running an engine too rich for too long can cause damage to the conrod. When breaking in an engine, you may need to leave the glow igniter attached to keep the engine running.

2- Always make adjustments after allowing the engine to warm up fully. We strongly suggest setting the optimum tune with 1/4 tank or less of fuel in the car. Most engines will run slightly rich with a full tank and slightly lean with a low tank.

3- Don't assume that a properly tuned engine on a street surface will run the same on a loose dirt surface. Keep an eye on changing conditions including weather, track conditions, tire size, etc.

4- The type of glow plug used has a huge effect on engine tune and performance. Sometimes changing the type of plug makes all the difference.

5- If you are unsure of the settings, it is safer to tune rich. It you are unsure of what you are doing, stop and seek help from someone with experience. Unfortunately help may be hard to find as even the best intentions can sometimes lead to a blown engine. Ask your local shop to help you, and if they don't have someone who knows how to tune an engine, contact us for help.

[smoky]

can someone please tell me any after market bodies thatll fit the storm i dont wanna buy a replacement. they dont even come with window masks somebody please some has to be runnin an aftermarket body please help?thanks guys

[doesgo]

The Pro-Line Crowd Pleazer for the Hyper 7 and Kyosho fits, but it's not a DIRECT fit. Just trim it to fit the Storm, not necessarily where the molded-in trim lines are. It's $22.99 here (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=43_71&products_id=238).

[smoky]

thanks for the reply. i was also wondering what kind of glow plugs you guys are usinf on the b-o1. i have a couple of os 8 and an os a5. any one have any exp with these and what other olugs u use that work well?

[t9dragon]

I've use the OS #8 in my Revo, Nitro MT's. I use the McCoy #9 in my Storm and EB-4.

[doesgo]

I use the O.S. #8 in lots of stuff, but sometimes the McCoy #9 if it likes a colder plug.

[Cesarjjc]

Thanks for your great info and link.

[Cartiredragbike]

Good evening all. I have read all 16 pages, It has taken a while tonight, but is to cold out to do anything else. I have been looking at to differnt buggies for a month now. The mayham RTR and the Storm RTR are the ones I have nearoded it down to. They have the same radio gear. The Mayhem has the .26 in it and the Storm has a .21. The mayhem is roto start which I like better and the Storm pull start. The lhs stock's all parts for both of them so that is not an issue. Not sure what to do. The Storm is $20.00 more than the Mayhem. I am not a racer, at least on a regular track. I run with some guy's that have Ofna, HPI, Sportwerk's, Traxxas, Small block's and Big block's. I currently have a Modified Jato and Mostly stock Revo. I understand this is the Storm thread, I just would like to get some of your input's. I am not big into follow a crowd, The guy's at the LHS have mayhem's, and keep telling me to get on. But not sure what to do. Sorry this is a bit winded, I am just tring to decide.
Thank's
CTDb :cool:

[doesgo]

I really like my Storm (the previous version, not the "Plus" or whatever the new one is) and have beat the snot out of it and it rarely breaks, but I've not driven a Mayhem for comparison, so I can't comment on that side of things. The stock Storm engine isn't a monster-power engine, but I found it to be extremely reliable and have adequate power, especially after adding a high-perf pipe. I used my Storm to win the season-long Sportsman buggy class at my local track in my first year ever racing, but a lot of it was due to the amazing reliability of my Storm. The entire four-race season it never once flamed out or broke, and this was on a pretty harsh off-road track!

That said, the Mayhem is slightly cheaper, has a stronger engine, and has a rotostart, which you say you prefer. Seems like that adds up to a better deal for you, if the buggy is comparable.

[kojak61]

You should go to gsracing.com they have the Avenger pro buy one get one free with free shipping. 499 for 2 buggies.

[t9dragon]

I guess they want to make room for the new buggy. I wish I had the money to buy, I could use a new buggy.

[smoky]

i must agree ive had my storm rtr for quite a while now and the thing does take a beating i think in about 3years ive replaced more parts with hopups than i have cause anything has broken

[t9dragon]

Hey doesgo, have you ran the Avenger and if so how does it handle compaired to the Storm?

[doesgo]

Nope, I haven't run the Avenger at all. From what I've seen, however, I'd stay away from it. It wasn't around that long and is already being replaced by the CL-1 (not very confidence-inspiring), and I've heard about lots of diff problems with it.

[RespirologyRC]

Doesgo how's it going bro? I still have my pro storm buggy :)

[doesgo]

Hey Respiro, it's been a long time! I've still got my Storm and SUT, and I just picked up a Storm Pro and have enough parts on hand to build yet another Storm or SUT. :)More parts than time, though, I haven't been doing too much bashing or racing lately, too busy with the SMF Store (http://www.smfstore.com). Good to see you around, have you been racing your Pro much?

[RespirologyRC]

The weather here in boston stinks! Everytime i pull my gear out to get it tuned it rains. So the answer is no. My buggy sits in its' case waiting to see sunlight.

[Tig]

I am looking at a Storm, its used. Its RTR to. What would be a good aftermarket motor for them. This will be my first 1/8 scale buggy:). Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks

[t9dragon]

What motor is in the one you're getting?

[Tig]

It has a stock motor.

[doesgo]

There are a lot of good aftermarket engines out there, it just depends how much you want to spend and what your goals are with the buggy, such as bashing, racing, jumping, high-speed, etc.

[Tig]

I am not competative, more of a basher who likes speed. I hope this doesnt sound stupid but, its going to be mainly an on-road car with some light off-road use. I would like an engine thats powerfull yet reliable, easy to tune to. What would you suggest.
Thanks for the info.
Later

[doesgo]

Probably the OFNA/Picco .28 would be your best bet for under $200. There are other options, but that one offers a ton of power, a good reputation for reliability, and tunes reasonably well. I'm sure other people will have other suggestions, though.

[smoky]

has anyone tried any type of monster truck conversion on there storm. either the gs one or the native racing with aluminum long suspesion arms. i really wanna convert it to use as a basher and get a new buggy for racing like the losi or xray tq.so i just wanted to know if any one has had any exp with either of these

[t9dragon]

I use the Ofna Dominator Rims, 17mm, White Part#: 81155. You have to remove the hub extenders. I also use the same wheels on my Thunder Tiger EB-4. Below is a pick of my Storm buggy with them on.

http://a0.cpimg.com/image/F8/BD/52304120-faee-028001E0-.jpg

http://a3.cpimg.com/image/05/BE/52304133-b24c-028001E0-.jpg

http://a8.cpimg.com/image/00/BD/52304128-7971-028001E0-.jpg

[doesgo]

I've converted my Storm to a truggy for temporary use, it just depends how far you want to take it. For wheels, do as t9dragon suggests and use Dominator wheels or run the GS extenders and most 14mm hex MT wheels should work. It's good to change to the larger SUT spur gear to account for the increased diameter and weight of the tires, too. To do that, you'll need the SUT spur, center diff plate, center diff spacers, and radio plate (or you might be able to just notch your Storm's radio plate, I can't remember if there's enough room there). That'll get you functioning like a truggy. The only other thing would be if you want to go to a truck body the easiest is to get SUT shock towers and body mounts, then decide whether you want to keep the wing. It's pretty easy to adapt the Storm wing to the SUT tower. Also, if you're bashing with it, you might want to consider getting some SUT bumpers for it.

[Tig]

Thanks for the info doesgo, I appreciate it. I have put getting a new motor for my Storm on the back burners for now.
I do have a couple of questions thgough.
1. do they make threaded shocks for Storms?
2. what is the better choices for fuel? I am useing, oh crap I had a brain fart, its blue but I dont remember the name off hand.
any info would be appreciated
Thanks

[doesgo]

1) I don't believe GS Racing does, but most 1/8-scale shocks are close enough to the same size and length you could probably easily install some threaded shocks from another vehicle.

2) Most people think whatever they use is best, but I truly don't think it matters that much. Some people love Blue Thunder, some hate it. Whatever. I run Trinity Monster Horsepower 20% in everything I have because it's convenient and easily available in my area. I think as long as you run a name-brand fuel and take care of your engine, you'll be fine.

[Tig]

Thanks again doesgo, I appreciate it

[Tig]

Do they make a 2spd for the GS Storm?

Thanks

[doesgo]

Not that I'm aware of.

[Tig]

thats what I figured
Thanks

[Cain]

I got a GS SUT with the Native Suspension kit coming in. I know a guy who races at a track about a few hours from here that has the same kit on his SUT and his vehicle equals whats out there today. Extremely well handling vehicle.

[Tig]

Whats the Native suspension kit?

[Cain]

If you go to a-main hobbies, they have it shown there. Basically its a kit that goes on the SUT that will utilize a long arm suspension like more modern truggies so you don't have to use axle extenders anymore. The arms look extremely beefy as well. For a pic look here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=002&item=120001767292&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

Its a pricey item, but after seeing how well an SUT handled with it, when I saw this listing I had to give it a shot especially for the price I got this for.

[Tig]

Who distributes it? Would it fit on a Buggy? I like that, it looks pretty sick. Must ride like its on clouds. I want it, as long as it fits a buggy.

[t9dragon]

Who distributes it? Would it fit on a Buggy? I like that, it looks pretty sick. Must ride like its on clouds. I want it, as long as it fits a buggy.

If you have the GS Storm buggy they should fit.

[Tig]

where can I get them? who sells them?
what is the company that makes them?
Thanks

[Tig]

Where can you get any aftermarket parts for Storms. I have been to Horizon Hobby but, they only have stock replacement parts. Where can you get some shiney or metal parts.

Thanks

[Cain]

ebay maybe, seen a set of shock towers on there.

[nitro syco]

There is not alot of hopups for the storm, wich is good and bad if you want something or need something better there is not much but it also keeps you from buying unnecescary weight that happens to be shinny.

[doesgo]

The Storm Pro parts are all you really need. Dynamite had some stuff, but I'm not sure they're still available. Both GS and Dynamite are stocked by Horizon and Stormer Hobbies, and we've got a few parts left at the SMF Store (http://www.smfstore.com/index.php?cPath=34&osCsid=702c8a4949a283217322a5b6f188ece0).

[Gismo]

Hello T9DRAGON,

Can you please put some more pics of the wheel/hub section. I also got a Storm and now I'm very excited!! What do you mean by "remove the hub extenders"?

Thanx

[smoky]

you can get the suspension at native tomahawk at remotecontrolhobby.com. there out of stock right now but if ya check the pics it does lokk super sweet im definitly throwin that on my buggy. its kinda pricey though at round $250

[Cain]

There is an SUT CE with a full tomahawk kit on ebay right now you can look into. Probably would be cheaper. I bought my with the kits on it already for $250 and that included servos, radio, etc.

[Tig]

Has anyone put in an aftermarket motor? I am looking to upgrade, I want BIG. What is the BIGGEST motor made that would fit the Storm?

Thanks

[doesgo]

Sure, most big-blocks will drop right in where the stock Storm .21 belongs.

There are several .32s out there, including those from Axial (http://www.smfstore.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=axial+.32+spec ), Racer's Edge (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=196_45&products_id=830), and Werks/Collari.

For a buggy, however, I'd consider the Picco .28 (http://www.smfstore.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=ofna%2Fpicco+. 28) instead. It's still very strong on the bottom end, but it really revs, too.

[Tig]

Thanks doesgo, I appreciate it.
How is the Picco .28 for tuning and where would be a good place to look for them?

Thanks again

[doesgo]

My Picco .27's tuning is easy and reliable, I believe the .28 to be the same. I put a link in my above post where you can find it, just click on the "Picco .28 (http://www.smfstore.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=ofna%2Fpicco+. 28)" text.

[Tig]

thanks buddy, you da man

[Gismo]

Thanx for all that info on the engines!!!

My Q? What type of oil\grease can I put in my front and rear diff? Must it be a RC product or can I use preformance motorvehicle stuff?

Thanx for all the help

[doesgo]

For buggies, most people start off with 3000wt in the front, 5000 or 7000 in the center, and 1000 in the rear. You may find you prefer some other setup based on your power, traction, track, and driving style, but that's a good starting point.

I don't know of any 100% silicone automotive lubricants in those weight ranges, so I'd stick with the stuff intended for RC.

[Gismo]

OK,
I spoke to my local Hobby RC dealer. They only got 1 product for the inside of the diff and then I can use some sort of grease (Coper-Strip) outside, on the big gears.

Any product names perhaps?

[doesgo]

Here's (http://www.smfstore.com/index.php?cPath=112_160) a bunch of different-weight diff lubes. Many brands have their own, such as Mugen, OFNA, Kyosho, GS Racing, etc. They're probably all pretty much the same.

Yes, lube the ring and pinion gears (outside the diff case) with grease, run "diff lube" on the inside.

[Tig]

doesgo, I have a question.
I saw that there are 2 motors, one with pull start and the other without. Heres my ?
Can the non pull start motor be converted to pull start?

Thanks

[doesgo]

In some cases you can make that change, but it's rather expensive because not only do you need the one-way bearing and pullstart, but you need a new backplate as well. I'm not absolutely sure if this particular non-pull can be converted to pullstart, I understand there are some other differences between the pullstart .28 and non-pull .28 besides just the addition of the pullstarter.

[t9dragon]

Hello T9DRAGON,

Can you please put some more pics of the wheel/hub section. I also got a Storm and now I'm very excited!! What do you mean by "remove the hub extenders"?

Thanx

Here is the pic you asked for.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k294/t9dragon/DSC02000.jpg

[doesgo]

Dominator wheels?

[Gismo]

OK,
Thanx. I see what you meen. I've traced a part, OFNA 30058 "Wheel Hub Extensions" that seems to be fitting on the GS as well. Ordered it and waiting. When I'm done, I will post some pics.

;=)

[Tig]

Are Ofna parts compatible to GS?

[doesgo]

Some are, but by coincidence rather than by design. Buggy hexes are close to universal, I believe.

[Gismo]

The OFNA website, www.ofna.com, got all the manuals. I downloaded a few of them and looks like some part could work.
Check it out.

[doesgo]

What are you wanting to do, Tig? I've kind of lost track, this thread has gone a couple different directions. You're wanting to run MT wheels/tires on a Storm buggy?

[t9dragon]

OK,
Thanx. I see what you meen. I've traced a part, OFNA 30058 "Wheel Hub Extensions" that seems to be fitting on the GS as well. Ordered it and waiting. When I'm done, I will post some pics.

;=)


Gismo,

I'm not running hub extenders that was the whole reason I bought the Ofna wheels was they were a direct fit on the 17mm hubs.

[Gismo]

I saw it in the pic, but then I did some hunting on the NET. Something new and I want to try it. With that extender, I can even use my current wheels, but hopefully it would look evil... Hahaha

[t9dragon]

Okay.

[Tig]

Doesgo,
I was just curious, more for parts. Its easier to get Ofna parts than Storm parts(I think). I have tried to order form Horizon and they have said out of stock.

[t9dragon]

Try here for GS Storm parts www.myhobbydepot.com

[doesgo]

Yeah, GS has more limited distribution, OFNA is everywhere.

[Tig]

Thanks t9, I appreciate it. Thats the most parts I have seen available for the Storm.
NICE :)

[Tig]

doesgo, Thats for sure.
Allthough, I must say. The only problem I have had with my Storm is the front upper arm pulled off of the link after a jump gone wrong, it stripped out the arm. Now I have swapped all of my parts over to a Pro chassis and added a new muffler and gasket, :eek: WOW what a difference, its like a new car, the power is awesome.
Seriously, I have had so many people tell me to get rid of my Storm. I cant, I have great luck with it. It has ran sinse day one, it holds a tune forever. I love it. Just thought I would add that:)

Later

[Gismo]

Hello Again,

Got my OFNA Wheel Extentions. Here are some pics. Got like 15mm on each side.

[Gismo]

Seems I can only upload 1 pic per post. Here is another shot.

[Gismo]

And another shot...

[Tig]

Gismo,
You have a part # for them? Do you have a picture with all of your wheels on to.

Thanks

[Gismo]

Hello Tig,

Part Number is 30058. Will take some pics later today or tomorrow and port them.

[Cain]

Do they come with the pin and set screw or is it just the hexes?

[Gismo]

Hi,

Just the hexes, but you can use the old pins and set screws.

There's a set of shims coming with.

[Tig]

Thanks Gismo, I appreciate it.
Lookin forward to seeing some pics with them mounted.

Later

[NitroCuda]

Storm Evo.... http://www.gsracing.com.tw/search_list_detailed.php?search=GSC2010ADG


Anyone know what parts are needed to upgrade to the new captured hinge pin set up?

I cant find any good pics of close ups on the buggy, or the SUT evo. So i cant tell which parts are new and which are old.

[Tig]

Well, today was a sad day for my Storm Pro. She took off on me and hit a crub at full throttle:(, man I am so mad, yup no fail safe to. I put off installing my Spektrum gear so my daughter could use it. Man, did I pay for that. The chassis' is junk along with numerous (about 8) screws sheered off and the graphite steering brace was shattered. Thankfully I have my RTR Storm roller as a parts car. I'll be spending a little while swapping gear over.
I cant beleive it, I have never had a car run on me before. What an experience. Wow she was running great to.
Time to look on Ebay for more parts :)

[doesgo]

That sucks! Really sorry to hear that, Tig. Good luck with the rebuild. Let us know what you need, maybe some of have spare parts to sell.

[t9dragon]

I have a small toolbox full of parts. Let me know if there is anything you might need.

[Tig]

Thanks guys, I really appreciate it.
Fortunately I have a spare parts car. It wasnt so bad after all. I have everything back together. I'm going to have to orded a new set of screws though, I lost about 8 of them in the wreck.
Who sells screw sets for the Storm?

Thanks again guys, you rock :)

[t9dragon]

That's good to hear.......................

[doesgo]

The SMF Store (http://www.smfstore.com/index.php?cPath=21_28) does. 280+ pieces for $26.

[af_juicy]

Hey guys anyone out there running a Storm sut CE I have a brand new in the package main chassis plate for it that is the upgraded version made out of 7075 T6 aluminum that I got by accident when I ordered a new chassis for my storm sut but once I got it, it was the wrong one. I contacted the supplier and they said to just keep it and they would send me the right one. This chassis sells for like $100 you can find it on ebay for like $89 plus shipping so I guess I could make some one a real good deal on it like $50 shipped anywhere in the lower 48 states.

[Gismo]

Hello,

Before I could fix my wheels on the new Hub Extentions, I got a new playting - Stom to SUT Convertion kit. Awsome!!

See Ya Later!

:wave:

[t9dragon]

Nice trucks, gismo...............................

[cenracer1]

Does anybody know where I can get a good supply of spare parts for my gs sut.. I had a bad landing yesterday and snapped the front lower a-arm... I tried e-bay but nothing there..SMF doesn't have enough.. I had to use horizon hobbies and they are list +$$$... Needed arm, pins and one tie rod... A bit rough one the landing.. Hit the right front tire and tried to throttle out of it... oops.. Bashed for several hours before the mishap.. first real damage ever to the truck.. very impressed... af juicy.. will that chassis plate fit the reg sut or only the sut ce... If it works, I may be interested if its still available....

[NitroCuda]

will that chassis plate fit the reg sut or only the sut ce... If it works, I may be interested if its still available....

You have to convert your SUT to a full CE in order for it to work. A lot of cash.


SMF screw kit is bullit proof. Great screws, im running them in my storm. Stock screws are way to soft. Doesgo knows how mad i was getting at them lol, worth every penny to get rid of those POS screws.

[Cain]

If anyone wants parts for there SUT / storm/ or SUT CE, look online as I posted a bunch of stuff for sale. Also have an execellent condition SUT CE chassis with braces for sale too.

[af_juicy]

The chassis is still up for grabs but it will only work with the SUT CE anyone who has sut parts for sale email me at af_juicy@kaplantel.net

[mad419iou1]

Anyone have any spare chassis???

Mike

[af_juicy]

I have a brand new CE chassis that is just sitting in my box like I had stated a while back if anyone is interested.

[f2k]

My engine seems to given up completly - and I simply don't have the interest in nitro to try and repair it. So I've got a buggy for sale / trade if anyone are interested.
Hell, I'll ´send the engine as well - perhaps someone else can breath some life into it...

[illbreakit]

Hey guy's, I'm back after a little break in RCing. Changed locations, closed Bandit Engineering and started Bandit Powdercoat :D ... Anyways, I wana get my RC's back in action again. Got like $7K worth of rides and parts etc, just sitting around in storage. I want to convert my SUT back into a buggy. I allready have a complete custom Savage, with custom CF TVP's and front tank conversions.
I think I have gathered all the little parts I am missing for the Storm off ebay, but having a hard time finding a body. No one around here deals with GS. So, what other buggies bodies fit nicely to the storm??? or, does anyone have a extra clear body they want to sell>

[mad419iou1]

Well welcome back!! I've heard that bodies for the Ofna 9.5, Hot Bodies Lightning pro, and the Kyosho 7.5 series K1, K2, K3, will fit but I have no first hand experience of trying them. I think there are some Storm bodies up on Ebay right now. I hear ya on not being able to get Storm parts locally as well try www.stormerhobbies.com or www.horizonhobbies.com they have a pretty good selection of Storm parts.

Mike

[mad419iou1]

Ebay body
http://cgi.ebay.com/GS-STORM-PAINTED-BODY-used-Nitro-Buggy-G-S-Pro-777-D43_W0QQitemZ220042370913QQihZ012QQcategoryZ34063Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Ebay bodies #2
http://cgi.ebay.com/GS-STORM-BODIES-LOTS-OF-THEM_W0QQitemZ320041394316QQihZ011QQcategoryZ34063 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Mike

[illbreakit]

Thx mad, I kinda like clear bodies :D Doing wild paint jobs is another one of my things

[illbreakit]

Here's a pic of 4 of my rides. There shelf queens ATM LOL. The Sav just needs brakes, and she's ready to go. Storm needs elec's and engine. What everyone runnin for a play motor these days. I have a modded Mach.26 in the Savage I was thinking about puttin in the Storm. I had it in there when I was hillclimbing in SUT form. Pretty torqy I was thinking the STS 30 for the Sav, any suggestions? Just want a cheap, but powerfull engine, no racing around here, sadly I think I am the only one with Nitro for 100 Miles. I want to put a tight fitting body on the Storm because winter's coming. The Savage and SUT get to much snow and water in the body and around the engine. My last buggy was much better protected, OFNA MBX, and was pretty fun on slippery surfaces

http://banditpowdercoat.com/Powdergallery/nfpicturepro/albums/userpics/10002/normal_RC%20002.jpg

[mad419iou1]

Nice rides man!! I should have some pics of my arsenal up sometime this week. My Ebay gem of the day...... front and rear Fioroni shock towers for $10 :cool:

Mike

[illbreakit]

Ya, these ones. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=012&sspagename=STRK%3AMEDW%3AIT&viewitem=&item=220042371105&rd=1&rd=1 You stole them out from under me :( I was acctually posting some things on ebay for sale when the auction came due. Forgot to check. Ya sniped me :eek:
I woulda went 15 LOL

I'm Banditpowdercoat on ebay
PS the L3 is up fro grabs there :D *shameless plug* LOL

[mad419iou1]

. I guess the sniper doesn't win all the time lol. I also got the front and rear shocks for $2 a set :eek: and a full set of Crimefighters for $3 :cool: Was trying for the pro chassis setup he had up there but my max was about $2 too low :mad: I have to keep the Storm family happy and running lol. My SUT would LOVE those new pro towers you have up there.

Mike

[illbreakit]

I acctually have custom milled shock towers out of 6mm 7075. I have a little mill here. check out the bottom of my Stormhttp://banditpowdercoat.com/Powdergallery/nfpicturepro/albums/userpics/10002/ebay%20002.jpg
And my towers
http://banditpowdercoat.com/Powdergallery/nfpicturepro/albums/userpics/10002/ebay%20003.jpg

[mad419iou1]

SHCWEET!! I have a Bridgeport at work but only minor skills. lol

Mike

[doesgo]

I sure could use some of those uber-thick SUT towers, illbreakit! ;)

[illbreakit]

Fully CNC'd mine. It's great to watch milling away. But time consuming to do one off parts

[illbreakit]

Hey, Doesgo, long time. I dunno if I even have the pattern for them anymore, . I'll have to look. Took me alot to make them, alot of screwups. I think I used up all my 6mm alum. :( Did you ever get a mill? you guys were talkin about it before. I just couldn't compete with China makin parts. That and some guys over at Sav-Cen hated me cause I wasn't makin my TVP's like the others. I do have 1 set of CF TVP's left. You break them Alum ones I sent ya yet?

[doesgo]

Yeah, we got a mill, but we haven't had time to get it up and running! Frustrating, to say the least. We've been so busy with the SMF Store (http://www.smfstore.com) we haven't had time for much of anything these days, even bashing!

What happened with Sav-Central? What, they don't want anything to be unique? Funny, they seem to sell lots of "custom-type" parts over there.

Nope, the aluminum ones are still holding up great! Sold out of the rest a long time ago, too.

[mad419iou1]

I sure could use some of those uber-thick SUT towers, illbreakit! ;)

I was just thinking the same thing about the steering link.Very nice work, it would take me YEARS to make those on a Bridgeport.

What's a decent setup to run for a tight track with alot of slow/medium speed corners? I'm running 5-7-2 for the diffs but have no ideas for springs/oil at the moment.

Mike

[illbreakit]

That's what I run for oils. Sometimes 10 in front and used the posi style front action to pull hard from the corner. Basically have to knife edge the corner, no rear turning under braking with thick in front. But, point/shoot is my style, could never be smooth.

For play, I run upwards of 100K I even siliconed the center diff with RTV, made it solid. Exccelent wheelies then LOL

So, there might be a market for my shock towers??? I can powdercoat them now, as I am full on into powdercoating. Check my site www.banditpowdercoat.com :D
No anno though, srry

[mad419iou1]

Here's a few pics of the Storm twins
http://img15.imgspot.com/u/06/308/19/IMG0536copy1162771740.jpg

http://img15.imgspot.com/u/06/308/19/IMG0532copy1162771793.jpg

http://img15.imgspot.com/u/06/308/19/IMG0539copy1162771855.jpg

Mike

[mad419iou1]

I just got off the phone with Hardcore Racing and they have 3 Titanium chassis left for $155 a piece. I think if I make some on my own I might be able to beat their price.

Mike

[t9dragon]

I would check ebay, I have seen them cheaper then that.