Pan Car Forum

[NotWalkinBlind]

UntuchablSS, ever race 1/12th?

[UntuchablSS]

Definitely the TEAM VERSION, the sport could work but there'd be many parts I'd have to replace, I need the tuneablility of the 3 shock system. The sport doesn't have that. Do you have one? Or know someone that does?

[aspiringrcracer710]

The only other thing I would recommend is you contact your LHS and see if they can special order the L3T Team for you.

[UntuchablSS]

Yeah, I called them the day I registered here. They are looking into it for me, but it doesn't look good. I also contacted Associated but haven't received a reply just yet. Having worked with an international distributor before, I know that there are items considered to be "B" or "C" stock that usually isn't sold to the public. And since there aren't any plans on making anymore touring pan cars, they might consider selling one to me. At least that's my hope. Thanks everyone for your suggestions and help, please keep it coming, I appreciate it very much.

[aspiringrcracer710]

Where do you live at amigo because there is a shop called SoCal RC that is like right up the street from AE and you could call and special order through them if need be.

www.socalrc.com

[UntuchablSS]

UntuchablSS, ever race 1/12th?
Oh yeah, I'm addicted so badly to 2WD racing, I've bought 2 rc12L3's and a Serpent 950 (8th scale), I also have an rc10L4 oval car.

[UntuchablSS]

Where do you live at amigo because there is a shop called SoCal RC that is like right up the street from AE and you could call and special order through them if need be.

www.socalrc.com
I live a bit aways....I'm in South Jersey. I'm going to try that link you suggested... I'll let you know if anything (ahem ;))"pans" out!!
Thanks bro !!

[aspiringrcracer710]

groan... In any case, Id talk to some of the shops in NY. Im sure one of em could special order a L3T or some narrow pan car for you. If you are feeling non conformist, there is the Corally CCT (have your LHS order it) or the CRC Pantoura (http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?name=Shopping_Cart&file=category&category_id=12)

[UntuchablSS]

Oh yeah, I'm addicted so badly to 2WD racing, I've bought 2 rc12L3's and a Serpent 950 (8th scale), I also have an rc10L4 oval car.
I also forgot to mention that I have a formula car F103RS and a TC3. However the TC3 is collecting dust. I haven't done anything with it since I've been running the 12L3 and Oval. I'm going to try to develop a class where it's only the motor that matters (as far as equality between cars), doesn't matter if it's 4WD or 2WD....weight restrictions won't matter....pan car or not....190mm or 200mm. Off road running on road, whatever....Really all that'll matter is if you can drive or you can't. Know what I mean? It should draw some interest. In a way it will allow some to tune as they are running with other cars and to others it could be a decent challenge. What do you think?

[UntuchablSS]

groan... In any case, Id talk to some of the shops in NY. Im sure one of em could special order a L3T or some narrow pan car for you. If you are feeling non conformist, there is the Corally CCT (have your LHS order it) or the CRC Pantoura (http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?name=Shopping_Cart&file=category&category_id=12)
I think if I don't receive any news from Associated, I'll look into the Corally's, my friends and running rivals say that I'm at the point where I should consider running Corally over the 12L3 (or L4 for that matter). I'll look into them right now as a matter of fact, what do they usually run around? How do they compare to the RC10L3T?

[aspiringrcracer710]

I honestly can't say. Id do a search for Corally CCT and RC10L3T reviews

[aspiringrcracer710]

Here is the official race weekend schedule (And it was a long time coming too):

Friday May 13 Practice Day



10:00 – 10:25 1/10 On-Road (Stock)

10:30 – 10:55 1/12 On-Road (Stock)

11:00 – 11:25 1/10 Oval (Stock)

11:30 – 11:55 1/12 Oval (Stock)

12:00 – 12:25 1/10 On-Road (Mod)

12:30 – 12:55 1/12 On-Road (Mod)

1:00 – 1:25 1/10 Oval (Mod)

1:30 – 1:55 1/12 Oval (Mod)

2:00 – 2:25 1/10 On-Road (19T & Stock)

2:30 – 2:55 1/12 On-Road (Stock)

3:00 – 3:25 1/10 Oval (19T and Stock)

3:30 – 3:55 1/12 Oval (Stock)

4:00 – 4:25 1/10 On-Road (Mod)

4:30 – 4:55 1/12 On-Road (Mod)

5:00 – 5:25 1/10 Oval (Mod)

5:30 – 5:55 1/12 Oval (Mod)



This way, everybody get two chances to hit the track. If they can't hit in the first session, they can go in the second (If enough people enter GT1 I would consider bumping the end of practice to 6:30 so allow everybody to have 2 shots at the track)



Saturday May 14 (Stock Day)

8:00 – 10:00 Open Practice (Stock Classes Only)

10:00 Driver’s Meeting

11:00 Qualifying All Classes 3 Rounds

Change over between on-road & oval will take about 5 min.

Classes will be run in the order listed

Round 1

1/10 On-Road Heats A,B,C, etc.

1/12 On-Road Heats A,B,C, etc.

1/10 Oval Heats A,B,C, etc.

1/12 Oval Heats A,B,C, etc.

Round 2

1/10 On-Road Heats A,B,C, etc.

1/12 On-Road Heats A,B,C, etc.

1/10 Oval Heats A,B,C, etc.

1/12 Oval Heats A,B,C, etc.

Round 3

1/10 On-Road Heats A,B,C, etc.

1/12 On-Road Heats A,B,C, etc.

1/10 Oval Heats A,B,C, etc.

1/12 Oval Heats A,B,C, etc.



Mains

Mains will be run from lower mains to higher mains

Single or Triple “A” Mains (dependent on # of entries)

Sunday May 15

8:00-10:00 Open Practice (Mod and 19T Only)



10:00 Drivers Meeting

11:00 Qualifying All Classes 3 Rounds

Change over between on-road & oval will take about 5 min.

Classes will be run in the order listed

Round 1

1/10 On-Road Heats A,B,C, etc. (Alternating between 19T and Mod)

1/12 On-Road Heats A,B,C, etc.

1/10 Oval Heats A,B,C, etc. (Alternating between 19T and Mod)

1/12 Oval Heats A,B,C, etc.

Round 2

1/10 On-Road Heats A,B,C, etc. (Alternating between 19T and Mod)

1/12 On-Road Heats A,B,C, etc.

1/10 Oval Heats A,B,C, etc. (Alternating between 19T and Mod)

1/12 Oval Heats A,B,C, etc.

Round 3

1/10 On-Road Heats A,B,C, etc. (Alternating between 19T and Mod)

1/12 On-Road Heats A,B,C, etc.

1/10 Oval Heats A,B,C, etc. (Alternating between 19T and Mod)

1/12 Oval Heats A,B,C, etc.



Break for lunch and set-up mains



Mains

Mains will be run from lower mains to higher mains

Single or Triple “A” Mains (dependent on # of entries)

Also, I just finished talking with the owner of Hobbytown San Antonio and if you wish to enter a second class it is $25 for the second class and $15 for the third class or thereafter. Also, we are making an exemption for ONLY the 12th scale oval class (due to the lack of available bodies on the market): If you run 12th scale stock or mod oval ONLY, you can run a GTP body if you cannot find a 12th scale NASCAR body for your car.

Let the odyssey begin! (Entries are now open, you have until April 30 so get em in!)

We will have decals ready to go hopefully this week for all the entrants. I will post pics of them when I get the final design work.

Also, the T-shirts are being finalized (with sponsor logos and everything) so hopefully I can post those pics up here as well.

All I have left to say is...


THE US PAN CAR CHAMPIONSHIPS ARE COMING...ARE YOU READY?

[aspiringrcracer710]

How goes the search untuchablSS?

[UntuchablSS]

I FOUND ONE !!!! Woo -Hoo !! I was just searching through EBay, my usual routine of searches.. so when I typed in "L3" (expecting oval cars), and viola, there was an RC10L3T but described as an L3. Thank goodness for pics! I saw them and proceeded to Buy It NOW! Including tires, an older Novak Speedo, servo, and a bo-bo Airtronics Am radio, I'd say it was worth it for $125...the chassis seemed to be in decent shape. But I told the guy to keep the radio, I'd only chuck it anyway.
Finally, one soon to be in my hands, thank God for Priority Mail too !
BTW, Associated hooked me up as well, they located one somewhere in CA with a 714 area code (where's that???) and they had a few of the Sport versions and only 1 Team version, at $159. Not bad either.
I'm happy mine is on it's way already.
Thanks for all the suggestions and recommendations! I like the CRC car A LOT! More than the Corally. I might get into it sometime this year. If it's anything like the 1/12 car, it should be sweet.

[aspiringrcracer710]

Well congratulations on your find! Hopefully all goes well. Now go out there and show up those 4wd TC boys! lol

[UntuchablSS]

What can you folks tell me about dampner angle? Say on the 12L3, you attach it to the rear pod and to the antenna's base. What if I were to give it more or less of an angle, what affect would there be? I also have an L4 with a killer multi position shock mount for an antenna mount. I've never bothered changing it, what can I expect?
Thanks for your input,
Val
UntuchablSS

[highroller]

The mounting point or position changes the amount of travel or reaction. While the stock mount is okay is may be slow since it has more travel, raising the location shortens the distance and gives guicker reaction.

[UntuchablSS]

Wouldn't a stiffer spring with lighter oil create a quicker reaction just as well? As far as travel, wouldn't the t-bar and spring tension prevent it from going too far into the shock? An explanation I've gotten at a LHS was that it was meant to keep the oil in the shock since they don't seal 100%.
I'm just applying what knowledge I have of physics and touring shocks to this car and all I can think of is that the angle of the shock has a direct effect on the amount of pressure onto an area of the chassis.
To explain a little more, if the angle is sharp, Then the transferred weight is going more so to the battery slot area of the chassis (the rear), whereas if it had less of an angle (flatter), it would apply more pressure to the front area of the chassis. A matter of physics (force, momentum) and weight transfer. Now that I'm thinking of it, I'm going to experiment ALOT this weekend because if any of this is true, then I can see why else people would use different spring tensions up front on a road course.
This is definitely something that's making me go, Hmmmmmmm.
What have you to opinionate folks?

[aspiringrcracer710]

I noticed you post on HobbyTalk. There is a 10th GTP thread in the onroad section there where you can chat it up about Pro10s just as well. Oh and we did have a nice little debate about narrow vs. wide there too...

[UntuchablSS]

Cool, I'll have to check it out.
Thanks!
VR
UntuchablSS

[aspiringrcracer710]

Cool, I'll have to check it out.
Thanks!
VR
UntuchablSS
Here is the link in case you can't find it: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=44061

[microrcdude]

thats a cool site!

[aspiringrcracer710]

Thanks microrcdude. It isn't mine though. I joined that thread after a guy I was working with on my race posted it up there. We need to chat up Pro10s though so go to it over there!

[microrcdude]

Ok, will do! Man RC Tech has a sweet pro10 thread, with TONS of posts. Ive seen ya there a few times. Isnt your name like :Trackdesigner71 or somethong like that?

[RC10racer89]

I've got a question for all you Carpet Knife guys out there. I recently purchased the new carpet knife 3.2, and I was wondering what the pitch of the gears on the stock spur gear are. They look smaller than anything I've used before, and I'm wondering if they might not be the usual 48 pitch gear teeth. If it is some weird pitch can anyone reccomend a brand of pinion gears to try which have the same pitch.

[aspiringrcracer710]

Ok, will do! Man RC Tech has a sweet pro10 thread, with TONS of posts. Ive seen ya there a few times. Isnt your name like :Trackdesigner71 or something like that?


Yeah, thatd be me.

[Liko]

If anyone has the means and motive to post some pics of their pan cars, I would appreciate it. I've seen a couple and heard about modding an F103 chassis for pan car racing. From what I've seen, my F103RS is basically a pan car on a diet. RWD, rear suspension based on a couple of shocks and a twisting rear plate, only major changes I've seen are in the shocks for the rear suspension and a larger bottom plate, and posts for 4-post touring bodies instead of the 3-pole F1 bodies. If anyone here could help me sort out the major differences just for my sanity, I'd appreciate it.

[Liko]

I looked earlier in the thread and found that pan cars (like everything else) sell on eBay. I checked a few more out, and yeah, the 103RS definitely fits my previous description. Pics of your cars would still be welcome though :D

[BALISTC]

I may have an F103LM for sale if anyone is interested :)

Needs radio gear and one shock to get it running.

[NotWalkinBlind]

How durable is that front suspension?

http://www.knerr.purespace.de/Chassis.htm

[NotWalkinBlind]

Can any of you guys who've been around awhile help me with this?

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=189751

[RC10racer89]

I've got a question for all you Carpet Knife guys out there. I recently purchased the new carpet knife 3.2, and I was wondering what the pitch of the gears on the stock spur gear are. They look smaller than anything I've used before, and I'm wondering if they might not be the usual 48 pitch gear teeth. If it is some weird pitch can anyone reccomend a brand of pinion gears to try which have the same pitch.

Well I never got an answer, but I was able to find out directly from CRC. In case any one else has the same question the stock spur which comes with the Carpet knife kit is a 104 tooth 64 pitch spur gear.

[rc10bob]

Hi, I'll looking to get into carpet oval racing. My question I came up with three chassis, hypdrive, there's a guy in New Jersey RIP motorsport, associated l4 I really would like a pinion on which one really handles good appreciate any help

[aspiringrcracer710]

Hi, I'll looking to get into carpet oval racing. My question I came up with three chassis, hypdrive, there's a guy in New Jersey RIP motorsport, associated l4 I really would like a pinion on which one really handles good appreciate any help
These guys should be able to help you with that:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/forumdisplay.php?f=20

[Liko]

These guys should be able to help you with that:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/forumdisplay.php?f=20

Hey guys, got a question for ya. I have an F103RS that, with a little tweaking, would meet specs for the local stock pan oval races. It's an excuse to get the Deans plugs, better batteries and charger, and a new motor. They run 4-cell, so I'd probably buy some loose 3300 NiMH and make my own packs for this. Or, the owner mentioned that some of the guys had older F1 cars, and the class just never caught on around here. If I could persuade em to run 6-cell F1, I culd jump right in and run a race just to see where I stand.

However, there's an issue with the car itself that I'd like to resolve before I drop money on it. Currently it's kit stock right down to the motor. Running it with even just a sport pack, it sounds like I'm driving a real F1 car, and if you know what I'm talking about, that's a real problem considering the other cars at the races last night were pretty quiet. It's really only when it's running around. Just spinning its wheels it's pretty quiet. People had suggestions that the spur was too tight or too loose, but a couple played with the drive and agreed it was pretty smooth and aligned. Another guy suggested it was the sealed silvercan I was using. The motor is rather old, but doesn't have a lot of runtime, and its only a 540J. Do you guys think this would be the problem? Would a good tuned stock motor be the right move here? Or would it more likely be the pinion/spur?

[highroller]

RC10bob, there really is no big difference between any of the chassis. Normally why most oval racers switch or use different chassis designs is for feel or how it reacts, you may not notice this being a first time racer. But as you gain experience you may find an aftermarket chassis or some add on that tends to make car smoother on the track. I started racing with the 10L series of cars and even now may build a chassis for a particular track, 1 may be a 10L4, while the next could a Leading Edge, while another track I use a Maverick Chassis.

[aspiringrcracer710]

Hey guys, got a question for ya. I have an F103RS that, with a little tweaking, would meet specs for the local stock pan oval races. It's an excuse to get the Deans plugs, better batteries and charger, and a new motor. They run 4-cell, so I'd probably buy some loose 3300 NiMH and make my own packs for this. Or, the owner mentioned that some of the guys had older F1 cars, and the class just never caught on around here. If I could persuade em to run 6-cell F1, I culd jump right in and run a race just to see where I stand.

However, there's an issue with the car itself that I'd like to resolve before I drop money on it. Currently it's kit stock right down to the motor. Running it with even just a sport pack, it sounds like I'm driving a real F1 car, and if you know what I'm talking about, that's a real problem considering the other cars at the races last night were pretty quiet. It's really only when it's running around. Just spinning its wheels it's pretty quiet. People had suggestions that the spur was too tight or too loose, but a couple played with the drive and agreed it was pretty smooth and aligned. Another guy suggested it was the sealed silvercan I was using. The motor is rather old, but doesn't have a lot of runtime, and its only a 540J. Do you guys think this would be the problem? Would a good tuned stock motor be the right move here? Or would it more likely be the pinion/spur?


I aint no RC expert, but I do see credence in the possibility that it could be tehe gearing. You could have gotten something in there that threw off the gear mesh and now it runs really loud. I would go through the whole car, clean out any dust dirt, etc that may be in there, reset your gear mesh and run it for a couple laps to see how it sounds.

[tamiya4x4dryver]

I want to build a pan car like a 10L, L2, L3 or similar to make a Nascar style stock car just for play around a couple of parking lots and my large asphalt driveway.

My problem is I heard that foam tires won't really work for play on unprepared surfaces. Is there any way to put rubber tires or touring car wheels/tires on a pan car? I realize BRP use to make touring car wheel adaptors for pan cars but they are no longer available. I also realize proline use to make a pan car conversion wheel for the road hawg tires, but again no longer available.

thanks

[Kenny T]

My experience with pan cars is very limited but can you not use tamiya rubber tires like the ones I have on my F103LM? Or do what I'm going to do and get a new shaft machined and drilled so it can accept a hex adapter to fit tc wheels.

Does anyone know how to put the F103's thrust bearing back together?

[aspiringrcracer710]

You could always ask Tamiya about it (or post about it in the Tamiya F103 section)

[Liko]

My experience with pan cars is very limited but can you not use tamiya rubber tires like the ones I have on my F103LM? Or do what I'm going to do and get a new shaft machined and drilled so it can accept a hex adapter to fit tc wheels.

Does anyone know how to put the F103's thrust bearing back together?

OK, the thrust bearing has 6 components: 2 flat washers, 2 "cone" washers (very wide cones, but they aren't flat), the thrust bearing itself, and a flanged hub end. The order, from first in to last in, is:

flat washer
thrust bearing
flat washer
cone washer, wide side in
cone washer, wide side out (think of making an hourglass shape with these)
flanged hub

The two cone washers form a rudimentary spring. How much you tighten the wheel lug on this side determines the slip rate in the differential. loosen to give more slip, tighten to have less.

As far as the tires are concerned, there are probably some wheels you can drop on to a pan car chassis that'll take rubber tires. The problem is that pan cars have very high offsets compared to even the F103's wheels, for instance. Also, take the F103. You can't even just put pan car wheels on this car. The wheels there are VERY specialized, and the design is so old it's nigh on impossible to find replacement wheels. This is why I'm very reluctant to really race my F103: if it breaks, that's all.

[Kenny T]

Thanks for that Liko but is there a way to lock the diff without overtightening the wheel nut? Can I just take the balls out? It was VERY tight when I first got it and when I opened it up I found that there was no grease in the diff so I put some grease in the diff and now it works smoothly. Removing the grease I put in will get it to a stage of tighteness that I want but is it good for the diff to run without any grease?

About the wheels, my hobby shop seems to stock replacement tires and wheels albeit at a very high price so for me it's not too hard to get.

[aspiringrcracer710]

Hey where'd everybody go?

[primuswoostinkinhoo]

i just painted a new body and rewired everything on my 12l4 enjoy
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/mbxb4/newwire.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/mbxb4/newpaint.jpg

[Kenny T]

Looks good.

3 or 4 years in RC and I still haven't painted a body. It's about time I tried painting a body. :D

[aspiringrcracer710]

After much deliberation and seeking advice on various issues, I have made my final decision regarding a few gray areas in the rules for the race. I have decided what motors will be allowed as well as what batteries are allowed as well. I apologize for the fact that the rules have been in a constant state of flux the last few months. I have had to enlist a lot of help looking into the various nuances and newest developments involving ROAR (whose rules we are using for this race). I realize that not everyone will be happy with the decisions I make but I would rather have a fair race with stable rules than an unfair race where the rules change almost at will.

[Liko]

Thanks for that Liko but is there a way to lock the diff without overtightening the wheel nut? Can I just take the balls out? It was VERY tight when I first got it and when I opened it up I found that there was no grease in the diff so I put some grease in the diff and now it works smoothly. Removing the grease I put in will get it to a stage of tighteness that I want but is it good for the diff to run without any grease?

About the wheels, my hobby shop seems to stock replacement tires and wheels albeit at a very high price so for me it's not too hard to get.

You can also make the diff stiffer by using a stiffer diff grease. One of the guys at the track uses Chap-Stick on his ball bearing diff, and that makes for a pretty stiff diff. Really, locking the diff is best accomplished by altering the diff itself. For instance in the F103's diff, you could drill a hole into the two halves of the casing and through the spur, and put in a locking pin of some sort.

If there's a place, especially in the U.S., that still makes F103 wheels and tires, I need a URL. I could definitely use another set of both.

[aspiringrcracer710]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5965930913&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

It aint much but its a start

[highroller]

Diff pinning is done to prevent the diff ring from spinning excessively on the hubs. In the early days we used CA to hold diff ring to axle and drive hub.
Irrgang come up with a oring diff assembly and now pan cars are using a D shaped hub/axle with a D ring to prevent slippage. Everyone uses different lubes to allow diff to be smooth and rotate will less resistance. Chap stick would work, just enough oils for lubing and light to reduce drag.

I ran a Tamiya Newman Hass in 1/12 th scale, it came with a gear diff, front didn't offer alot of tuning so to make it better a 12I axle and front end was installed.

[hondafather]

Hey we need to get this forum live. I got a Associated RC10L3 I just ordered. I also order D6 8X2 motor, lrp no limit esc, more mods. I know one thing my RC10L3 will be wicked fast with the D6.

[aspiringrcracer710]

Hey we need to get this forum live. I got a Associated RC10L3 I just ordered. I also order D6 8X2 motor, lrp no limit esc, more mods. I know one thing my RC10L3 will be wicked fast with the D6.
L3O or L3T and do you have pictures?

[hondafather]

L3O or L3T and do you have pictures?

Sup apringracer, no i have not got my car yet. If you want to see one of these go to www.teamassociated.com

What car do you have?

[hondafather]

Oh yeah i did not answer the question lol. It is a L30 touring car

[aspiringrcracer710]

I have a RC10L with a graphite chassis. I will post pics in a bit

[RC10racer89]

Here are some pictures of my newly completed Carpet Knife. I plan to take it to the Pan Car Nationals in May. Anyone else going?

[RC10racer89]

One more... Sorry, the pictures didn't come out so well.

[aspiringrcracer710]

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bjthenascarfan710/detail?.dir=/7256&.dnm=df4a.jpg&.src=ph

pics of the 10L

[ahab]

I run my RC10L3 in 15-20 minute nitro races. Its equipped with a Novak brushless motor and lipo battery packs.

[microrcdude]

Sweet! Can you go the whole race without changing batteries?

[FifthScaleRacer]

my RC10L2

http://www.detectivetalk.com/rc10l2.jpg

[theevilkanoofy]

Hello all I am new here and just wondering if anyone knows were I can get wheels to put rubber tires on my Old 10L?? No tracks around anymore But my street is nice!!

[highroller]

Proline used to make wheels for pan cars that you could mount their Striker and other onroad rubber tires. All other rims (wheels) will accept only foams. Unless some shop somewhere still have these rims in stock they're hard to find.

[microrcdude]

or get the hardest foam tires you can find.

[highroller]

You don't want a harder compound, that gives less grip. You want greens, or blue but they don't wear too good or give good traction on a unprepared surface even with traction compound. Pinks, purple, white are generally used on prepared surfaces, these are the exotic, long wearing compound but more expensive $24-$27pr (retail) vs $12-$15 for standard compound green and blue compounds.

Checked several online sites no one carry adapters or rims any longer that would allow you to use a rubber tire like the Road Hawg, Striker tires or even a touring car tire. You could take a TC tire or other type cut it and stretch it over the standard foam tire the glue the outside edges with CA, you may need to cut it and section it.

[highflyin]

I have a Carpet Knife V3.1 Team Red Edition for sale if anyone wants it.It is brand new.I bought it to race but the track near me stopped racing 12th scale.I will sell it for $150.00 shipped.Email me for pics. lowrollin122@aol.com

[nitrochubb]

my RC10L2

http://www.detectivetalk.com/rc10l2.jpg

Wanna Race?

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=197237

[MayhemMadMan]

hello all, I am new to the pan car scene, I have a RC10L4O and I am racing it in a NASCAR class w/6 cell batts. Thats where the problem starts, what do you guys use to hold your batterys in the car? The other guys at the track are using packing tape to tape that batts in the car, I would think there is a better way. So if anyone could provide me w/some info or part numbers or something about how to secure the batt. in the car I would appericate it!

Thanx :cool:

[TEM]

hello all, I am new to the pan car scene, I have a RC10L4O and I am racing it in a NASCAR class w/6 cell batts. Thats where the problem starts, what do you guys use to hold your batterys in the car? The other guys at the track are using packing tape to tape that batts in the car, I would think there is a better way. So if anyone could provide me w/some info or part numbers or something about how to secure the batt. in the car I would appericate it!

Thanx :cool:

You can use a velcro strap. OR make your own fastening system with alumnium standoffs, a strip of CF and a few screws, using a screw down method OR use them 4-40 cap screws with the hole across the top and use a body pin(like a TC3 hold down). Personally, I would go with strapping tape (fiberglass reinforced packing tape), Use 2 layers cause 1 layer tends to rip in a hard crash.

[highroller]

I use only a good quality of strapping or battery tape without problems for years. The other methods were tried but for what small benefits they had, there were obstacles added to much weight or created drag with surface.
Chassis prep is the crucial part in pan cars, file the edges battery tray slots to keep tape from tearing on sharp edges. Also CA the edges of chassis, bumper, upper & lower pod plate and battery tray itself - battery brace doesn't need to be CA. Wear plastic gloves or apply a thick glob of vaseline to hands then place the parts on plastic wrap or a empty parts bag. Allow CA to cure overnight to added additional strength, lightly sand the dried CA and apply a 2nd bead.
I now run a 10L4 X Factor chassis, began with a 10L and use nothing but strapping tape.

[Todd541303]

Well Hello!! Im a Trucker.. I own a RC10L4 which i intend on racing at the Velodrome in Indianapolis, In but im haveing trouble relocating the club that races there . My cpu took a crash and the info was in it.. So if anyone knows the website to the Club i would greatly appreaciate it.. Thanks in advance.. RC Todd

[southwesttour]

Todd,

Check out or do a google search for PDX Racing or come to California and race on the ENCINO Velodrome in July...

[highroller]

Not to steer you away from this site but on the hobbytalk site there is a duscussion on the Major Taylor Velodrome with race dates and schedule.
Phone number listed is 317-536-5344 no website address listed. Good luck

[Saboteur]

I have two pan car bodies that my friend mistoke them to be nitro sedan lola bodies. I been thinking about the pan car scene, but would go with 12th pan instead to run the Monster HP motor I have. The TRinity D5 11x2 though I think will be overkill. What would pan car pro's suggest I get for someting that will accept matched cells and or stick packs, something durable, and worthy to be raced in maybe a sport class or so?

[alabamarcguy]

wher could someone get bodys for these chassis? im having no luck at all thx for any info

[aspiringrcracer710]

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=145&page=381&pp=30&highlight=Pro10+bodies This group of boys could steer you in the right direction with regard to finding bodies for the RC10L

[highroller]

All the chassis being run now are the narrow configuration so manufacturers stopped producing the wide bodies. Only ones that are available are some GTP or dirt oval (210MM) made by McAllister Racing (carried by Stormer Hobbies).
If you are looking to go oval racing, the best information you are likely to get is from the racers.

[tallyrc]

there are also a handful fo 200mm gtp and lola and lolletta bodies still available form yokomo frewer i think academy has a new one comming out

[tallyrc]

if anybody has an associated rc10l3t for sale i'm interested...

[tallyrc]

i know folks want to talk about these

[ErikRC10]

I DO!! I don't have one yet though... I'm still not sure on which one I'm gonna get though. Are you gonna just keep your 10L3t or are you gonna get a L2? If so then I will probably try and get an L2 or some other wide car.

I think they are making a come back. I doubt they will over take tc's but I deffinetly think they are making a come back. Hopefully some major companies will realize this and rerelease 1/10th pan cars.

[tallyrc]

the brothers and bob all got wide cars so i will be at a disadvantage with my L3T, but i'd like to keep it if i can.. i may pony up and get the new darkside car which can run from 190mm to 235mm with adjustments.. but it's $250.. but man it is sweet looking... and it uses my standard 6 cell packs...

[highroller]

Associated no longer makes the L2 (onroad or oval), L3TC, or L3O cars. Only ones you'll likely to see are those for sale, by previous owners. I run a L4 with Silva Concepts XFactor 4 chassis, Darkside Adj shock mount and some other upgrades. Depends on where you like, and how popular oval racing is and before settling on one brand take a trip to the track to see what guys are running.
Every racers will be racing their favorite: Associated L4O (some w/aftermarket chassis from Silva Concepts, Swift -Maverick), Hyperdrive -Pro3, KSG -Generation2, Darkside Motorsports -Enemy, Leading Edge - Executioner, Lightning, R.I.P. Motorsports - Undertaker, Custom Works - Aggressor. Many of these companies make chassis with are called solid battery tray is built as part of chassis, slider battery tray and bracket are separate pieces with the ability to move forward and backwards and out on some. Prices vary from $179 for a chassis conversion (requires parts from the L4) or complete rolling chassis for $250 to $425.

[ErikRC10]

Well lately it's just been 4 of us running TC's and now that Bob has a pan car it will be 4 in TC and 4 in pan car since i haven't gotten one yet (but I do plan to pretty soon). So there is no going to the local track and see what everybody is running we are the local track... I realize that the L2 is no longer made but that's what ebay is for. We aren't doing oval we are racing onroad. I think there is a oval track somewhere around here though... Anybody have the link to the darkside car?

[tallyrc]

the new darkside car isn't even on his site yet, buy he has posted pics of it on the pro10 forum or rctech.. i'll see if i can find them... it's wicked looking as it is all silver carbon fibre ...

[tallyrc]

here it is
http://rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=154070

[ErikRC10]

Well that would explain why I couldn't find it on their website.

That thing looks incredible! I deffinetly think it is worth the $250. It looks extremely tunable. Not that it would help me since I can't tune worth $h!t but I still think it's really cool. Any word when it might come out?

[tallyrc]

it's out, just email him and tell him you want one...

[TEM]

190mm; Corally CCT, CRC pantoura, Speedmerchant SpeedSpec sedan! The protoform porsche GT1 body is the one to have but it's nolonger made.

[tallyrc]

i currently run a yokomo lola 200mm body, but am in the process of making my own molds for a 190mm gtp body.. my yokomo is no longer made either... probably just end up running a mazda 6...

[kingpinnz]

is there a pan rc only forum anywhere?

[tallyrc]

well depends what you mean "only".. hobby talk is where the vast majority of oval races seem to congregate.. but for onroad pan talk, the best thread i have found yet is on rctech... for some reason under the oval section, there is a 1/10th onraod thread that is the longes running thread on tech, and is very active...

[Taz_S]

It a long story on why it there but mark can oversee it.

[GT Freak]

:wave: I just picked up this for $8.00.:D Need some part gathering help. anyone :confused:

[highroller]

An updated rear axle assembly should fit provide the holes will take a 1/4 OD bearing or bushing, for the front either steering block from the Bolink Legends may fit or another pan car. You would also need the front springs.
It's kinda hard since kit was introduced in early 80's, without a manual or instructions I wouldn't know where to start or what parts you'd need.

[GT Freak]

i found someone whos selling a (i think) a '91 sport roller with extra parts. so thats the best way 4 me to start.

[danznrn]

I recently got to pan cars. the guy I got them from said they were RC10Ls, however, he didn't know exactly what models. I would like to change a few things, just don't know what model to order stuff for. Could you look at the pics and help me figure it out, thanks.

LCDR(s) Dan

[highroller]

The first chassis looks like either the Woods Racing or Superior Specture and a little like the Racetech chassis, can't really tell except by the two braces which normally used a floating type system - it's been converted to a three shock suspension. Some pan cars used a T-plate/tweak screw suspension (AE, Corba, TRC) while others used a floating, fluid damper arrangement (CRC, Corally, Trinity, Woods Racing, Superior Racing, Racetech). The other is an old Composite Craft Chassis called the Angled X Chassis, the batteries angled out near the rear to provide more weight to left rear.

It's hard to get new parts for older pan cars, you might run across something on Ebay or other RC For Sale listing but parts condition might be iffy. Depending on your plans, it will be cheaper to buy a complete kit. Most pan car (oval) come as either a slider (battery tray can be moved forward and backwards) or a solid chassis. Some companies that make kits are Associated 10L40, Custom Works (Aggressor solid or slidder), Hyperdrive (Pro 3 slidder or solid), KSG Extreme Generation2, RIP Motor Sports (Undertaker slidder or solid). For chassis conversions Silva X Factor 4, Leading Edge (Executioner slidder, Lightning-solid), Darkside Motorsports, Maverick (Swift Racing).

[danznrn]

Thanks for the help. I actually got these on the road. I used a new Associated rear axle and some parts for a few other junkers I got and got them running. Now I just need new tires for both. Thanks for the help.

LCDR(s) Dan

[highroller]

What are your plans and use for them? Do you plan to start racing or just bash around with them.

[danznrn]

Mainly these are to bash around. It's NASCAR season and my boys thought it would be cool to have replicas of there favorite drivers, so that'a the deal. There are 2 tracks near my house and figured we could go up there from time to time and run them around, nothing competitive by any stretch of the imagination. Also I am currently building a 1/6th scale NASCAR hauler and these are the cars that will go in it.

LCDR(s) Dan

[Thomas P]

This is my newbought NT200 killer... The I-Force from Darkside Motorsport Fornow il use the Mamba7700 will chang it to the Novak 3.5r, unning 6 SMC matched.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/I%20Force%201%2010th%20pancar/dghj.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/I%20Force%201%2010th%20pancar/fdj.jpg

[tallyrc]

what body is that and how wide are yo running that darkside? i liked them, but wanted a full 235mm car..

[Thomas P]

this is a 200mm car...i like the 235 to, but i wont need it, grip will be insane.. :)

Kfactory body for NT200

[E-LST]

Thomas, I run 4cell, 19t with my I Force and just smoke the 6cell stock tc's, even with the stock motor they don't keep up. The car responds really well to set up changes. I'm trying some expirements with tc rubber tires. I'll let you know how it goes
Bob

[Thomas P]

Nice to hear E-LST, this coming sunday it will be a wholeday driving, gonna se if i can do some serious job on the setup(it handles real good now). gonna run 4200 insted of unmatched crap 3600

[tallyrc]

i guess you guys are running on carpet?

[studysession]

Hi -
I have always wanted a pan car to mess around with out back of my house. Not sure what brand or model but just bought this off EBay yesterday.

Want to put drag wheels on this. I have a large collection of Bolink bodies that never been painted or cut. Will use one of my brushless setups in this, not sure which yet.

I have ran onroad 4wd before but not a pan car. Can't wait til it arrives.

http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/52531/Vt56451.jpg
http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/52531/Sq46643.jpg
http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/52531/Ez83178.jpg
http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/52531/Mk25142.jpg

[studysession]

Where do you get pan car bodies like this but for 1/10 scale? I see them on EBay for 1/12 but not 1/10 scale.

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/images/parma_10210l_002.jpg

[quick5pnt0]

These aren't exactly the same as the open cockpit that you posted but...

Mcallister GTP bodies:
http://www.mcallisterracing.com/racing/page10.html

Associated GTP:
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=ASC6128

Protoform GTP:
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=PFM140722

[studysession]

Thanks for the links. :)

[tallyrc]

Thanks for the links. :)

gary mcallister has come on the forums and said that he still has a mold for the lowla bodies like the one you showed.. call him and ask him to pull you one..

[mdoffroad]

ok, anyone know who makes this?


http://mywebpages.comcast.net/mdoffroad/RC_Stuff/RollingChassis/Car1.JPG

[trailranger]

Just Guessing, WOODS?

I just got into 1/10 oval so I am limited

[Taz_S]

Thank td

pics of the new CRC 10th scale car:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a354/bjwilliams710/RC%20Pictures/10-10a.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a354/bjwilliams710/RC%20Pictures/10-9a.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a354/bjwilliams710/RC%20Pictures/10-8a.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a354/bjwilliams710/RC%20Pictures/10-7a.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a354/bjwilliams710/RC%20Pictures/10-6a.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a354/bjwilliams710/RC%20Pictures/10-5a.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a354/bjwilliams710/RC%20Pictures/10-4a.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a354/bjwilliams710/RC%20Pictures/10-3a.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a354/bjwilliams710/RC%20Pictures/10-2a.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a354/bjwilliams710/RC%20Pictures/10-1a.jpg

That should be much easier for you guys to check out

[Taz_S]

This is my newbought NT200 killer... The I-Force from Darkside Motorsport Fornow il use the Mamba7700 will chang it to the Novak 3.5r, unning 6 SMC matched.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/I%20Force%201%2010th%20pancar/dghj.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/I%20Force%201%2010th%20pancar/fdj.jpg

so how did you run??

[TitaniumXRC]

I just completed the restoration on my old 1/10 Bolink pan car. I still have to put in the light’s, but for the most part it's done. Both the car, and body are Bolink.

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/3669/nissan004xg2.jpg

[tallyrc]

ti, looks great. how bout some body off shots of the chassis..

[burnman]

Hi, my rc club is going to be starting carpet racing soon. I was wondering if pan cars are only good for oval racing (which is what I've heard about), or are they good as well on more technical tracks?

Thanks a lot!

[Denserecords]

Hi, my rc club is going to be starting carpet racing soon. I was wondering if pan cars are only good for oval racing (which is what I've heard about), or are they good as well on more technical tracks?

Thanks a lot!

I used to race my pan car on on-road tracks, Not sure if they still make it but there was this stuff we used to put on the tires that made the foam alittle more soft so it would stick to the asphault. So yes they can be raced on a more tech track, but remember the setup of the car will also determine how it handles. I have an old bolink car and you can place the batteries either on one side for oval setup, or at the back (sideways) for onroad style racing.

[Denserecords]

Ok now for my question. I am going to do a full remodel of mu bolink pan car. the one thing cand find at my LHS is wheels and tires for it. Where are some places on the net to buy fronts and rears?

[tallyrc]

the best place for most pan car stuff is stormerhobbies.com

[quick5pnt0]

I used to race my pan car on on-road tracks, Not sure if they still make it but there was this stuff we used to put on the tires that made the foam alittle more soft so it would stick to the asphault.

Traction compound? Yes there are still numerous companies that sell it.

[Taz_S]

Ok, listen up everyone...

The dates are set for the 2008 BBR LeMans Cup Series.


These dates can be adjusted except for the first race this Sunday at the Ground Pounders.


If anyone identifies a conflict, please post up so we can get it corrected.

This is also contingent on the track promoters not changing their current schedules.


Sunday April 6, 2008 Ground Pounders, Windsor, CA.


Sunday May 4, 2008 RCCAR, Campbell, CA.


Saturday June 14, 2008 Speedworld, Roseville, CA.


Saturday July 12, 2008 Ripon Raceway, Ripon, CA.*


Sunday July 19, 2008 Marin RC, San Rafael, CA.


Saturday August, 16, 2008 NorCal, Union City, CA.


Sunday, September 21, 2008 ROCK’s, Fairfield, CA.


Saturday, October 4, 2008 Speedworld, Roseville, CA.**


*In conjunction with Ripon’s annual Revo Race
** Grand Finale with trophy presentations.



For more you can come over to http://www.rcracing.com/msgthread.cfm?threadid=52450&InfoID=282&SiteMessages=25

[aeb3man_44]

hey guys what do u think a brushless system in an old rc10l would be like?

[tallyrc]

depends what brushless motor... for most folks anything faster than a 10.5 is a bit much..

[TitaniumXRC]

I just completed the restoration on my old 1/10 Bolink pan car. I still have to put in the light’s, but for the most part it's done. Both the car, and body are Bolink.

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/3669/nissan004xg2.jpg



ti, looks great. how bout some body off shots of the chassis..

Sorry for responding so late. Not much to it, there was a friend who lives across the street who wanted to race me with his pan car, so I set up my Bolink Sport 91 (I think) just like his. I used the same gears, same crappy motor (Fireball 15 Turn) Novak 410 ESC, however I used a stick battery closer to the front. It turns sharp, but spins out. I need to get a saddle pack to ballance it out. If you still want pic's, I'll send them to you.

[Taz_S]

Well... The first race of the 2008 BBR LeMans Cup is in the books. Big thanks to the Ground Pounders club for providing a fun track with great traction. After the first of 8 races the points standings are:

235 mm Prototype

Steve Ashby 9 points

Michael O'Donnell 6 points

William Brown 4 points

Jay Sharpe 3 points

Tim Stiles 2 points

200 mm GT

Ken Jones 9 points

Jim Rose 6 points

Next race is May 4 at the RCCAR event so get those 1/10th pan cars out of mothballs and come on out and make a run for the cup!!!



I had fun can not wait till the next race at RCCAR Sunday May 4, 2008 Campbell, CA.

[graeme_rsa]

Couple of questions!

Do you think the "World GT" class is going to take off and does anyone know where I can buy 4 stud AE type rear wheels?

[tallyrc]

i think the world gt/gt10 class has a real good chance of getting off the ground. now it's not for the faint of heart as 2wd rwd cars can be a handful unless the track is clean, but in light of the economy and the rediculous prices of touring cars and parts i think a cheap alternative is a great alternative.. stormerhobbies carries tons of "ae" type wheels.. all the 10th scale cars use the same as oval cars.. just look for bsr, jaco, or elligi/trc tires for 10th scale.. DON'T get radials! they wont work onroad.. i'd recomend pink rears and pink or purple fronts for a start...

[Taz_S]

Couple of questions!

Do you think the "World GT" class is going to take off and does anyone know where I can buy 4 stud AE type rear wheels?


Pro 10 GT might take off but "world GT" or "GT10" will not. When some one as about GT10 those ask what type of Gas Truck it is. People try to name stuff with out thinking.

I will help the class grow. But like when the RC10L3TC was out. When someone came out with a Wide GTP and blow the doors off of them they went back to the wide cars.

I will run 200mm car when winter come but I sticking to my fast wide cars for now.

[Taz_S]

Stormer is out of stock Protoform Peugeot 905B

So if you need a Body

T-bang as them in stock.

http://www.t-bang.ca/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=43_82&products_id=619

[graeme_rsa]

Just got a bargain from a local supplier and snapped it up!

1 x Nissan P35(unsure which brand as no label)
2 x Frewer Porsche 911 GT1 - FR25NW
2 x Frewer Loletta Centre Cockpit FR35NW
1 x Frewer VDS Lola 200mm FR30NW

All @ $15 each ... so now I have 6 more body shells to add to my existing 5 LMP shells waiting on - how am I going to paint them?

I prefer accurate replicas of real LMP types rather than flames and fades!

I'm still trying to get an accurate colour match to the Jaguar XJR-14 that I bought 2 years ago!

[graeme_rsa]

My latest finished body is an HPI Toyota GT-1

Sourced it from a LHS for $43 ... When I got it home and removed the price sticker (before the wife saw it!) I noticed that the sticker had covered up an important bit of info ... 300mm wheelbase!

Now my pans are +- 280mm

Bit of creative cutting and repositioning of stickers gives me a "long tail" Toyota GT-1

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj228/graeme_rsa/toyota-2.jpg

[graeme_rsa]

Other recent project was a 235mm Jaguar XJR-9! The shell I think was from Associated!

Sourced a set of Tamiya decals for the Daytona version on eBay @ $19 and modded them to fit the 235mm version!

The XJR-14 is more difficult as no decals exist for it! So I have to make my own!

My other project at present is to re-create the LMP Jaguar that won Le Mans ... in 1/12th scale! I have a 1/12th Nissan P35 body (which looks similar to the Jag). I have the Tamiya 1/24th plastic kit of the Jag + the decals. I have scanned the decals at hi-res and am now trying to source 'white' laser sticky paper to reproduce them in 1/12th!

[tallyrc]

that 300mm hpi body is for the super nitro rs4. sounds like a nice body collection you have there.. the p35 is probably an associated.. i have one too:wave:

[Taz_S]

T-bangs just got in the new Peugeot 905B HIGH DOWNFORCE 235mm Pro10 Bodies



http://www.t-bang.ca/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=84&products_id=676

http://www.dekelz.com/proofs/905BComparison.jpg

[tallyrc]

that's a nice body there. i will be getting one or two just to add to my collection..:D

[Taz_S]

Look like AE has a new Pro 10 car out soon.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/chilly4kc/RCCA/rc1052.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/chilly4kc/RCCA/rc1051.jpg

http://radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=249118

[graeme_rsa]

Just experimenting:)

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj228/graeme_rsa/IMG_0659-3.jpg

[Taz_S]

CRC Gen X 10 235 kit just released.

http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=81

.....

[rigby]

Could some suggest a good rig to start doing oval pan cars? 1/10 scale. 17.5 brushless class. I've been racing on road but don't know much about this class except that its whats going to be available this winter.

[southwesttour]

Rigby,

Would that be 4 cell or Lipo powered 17.5?

The Associated L4 is a good all around car, and usually available used for a decent price. They are not always the fastest car, but they are fairly easy to set up and get a feel for Oval racing.

Since you said "available the winter" I'm going to assume you'll be running on carpet.

Other good cars would be a KSG Gen 1 or Gen 2, Hyperdrive Pro3, Maverick cars, Leading Edge cars, Silva X-Factor.

I would kind of look at what guys will be running in your area, that helps for setup and parts availability.

There's some pretty good Oval info available over on the HobbyTalk forums as well.

[rigby]

SWTour - It'll be indoor carpet racing. 4 cell powered. L4 I know, and its probably where I'll wind up given Associated's saturation. Who is KSG?

[Taz_S]

we have a class at the '08 Region 12 Paved Electric Champs

October 25th and 26th atn Ripon Rc Speedway

http://www.riponspeedway.com/Files/'08_Region_12_Paved_Electric_Champs.pdf

[TeamTEOR]

Does anyone know who makes this chassis? I was told it might be a Links-II. It needs a new set of rear tires and also a servo mount. It is going to be mainly used for indoor carpet areas, so any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Tom
http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/44256/2552475970101782845S500x500Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb47.webshots.com/21102/2831655220101782845S500x500Q85.jpg

[southwesttour]

Chassis kinda looks crude/rough, but it would probably be a good starter car.

Looks like it has Windtunnel/Murdock wheels/tires on it.

Rigby, sorry I didn't see this earlier...KSG is one of the TOP Chassis MFG's.

LOTS more oval type info over on the HobbyTalk message boards...

SPEAKING of CARPET - the SWTour Series will have our Season Finale at the LINDSAY Carpet track in the McDermont Field House..

more info www.southwesttour.com

[TeamTEOR]

I'll try that other forum. It is being used as a special project, not racing. I just want to be able to order parts if I need them.
Thanks,
Tom