Pan Car Forum

[ammoace]

I have two pan cars and wanted to pick the brains of fellow pan car racers and enthusiasts alike. Mine are the RC10L3O and the RC10LS.
Taurus body on the L30 and a GTP on the LS.
Both have 27T stock motors. Foam yellow compound Duratrak rears on the LS and unknown rubber capped on the front. The L3O is runnign dual compond tires on all four corners. I don't race them yet but I am currently working a drag conversion project on the LS. That is why I am running the real soft compound tires on the rear. I want to put O-ring tires on the front but first I want to put in a 20T-16T motor in it.
Enough about my twins, what are you folks running. Lets pass on some racing/setup tips and general hellos. :D
AMMOACE

[ 05-09-2001: Message edited by: ammoace ]

[ 05-09-2001: Message edited by: SteveP ]

[tc3guy]

I know you think it would be great to have a pan car forum but then people would want a touring car forum, nitro and electric truck forums, buggy forums, and so on. So just post in the electric or general forums.

[ammoace]

That is what I have been doing so far. Plus I noticed a few more people have been asking for help with thier pan cars and/or for just general information. I am torn between thinking we need more specific forums or not though. I would like to see more specific Forums but at the same time I understand that it could make the Forums less informative and less traveled. I guess it can be called a double edged sword. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif Thanks for your input,
AMMOACE

[tc3guy]

I know what you mean. I wish there was a touring car and a pan car forum because I am also going to start racing pan cars. But then there would be too many forums and they would be less informative. Do you know any good pan car racing websites?

[ammoace]

Currently the only ones that I have seen are actually just the manufactures sites like Associateds and Bolinks. Which pan car(s) do you have? Since your login name is tc3guy I am guessing it is a RC10L3T or RC10L3O. I have the 10L3O and 10LS but have no place to "race" them yet. The people here are trying to get a track together but are dragging thier feet.
AMMOACE

[tc3guy]

Well I don't actually have it yet but I'm going to get an RC10L3O. First I'm going to do a speed run project with it, then I plan to race at the indianapolis bike veledrome.

[ammoace]

I have some equipment tips for Veledome racing if you want them. :D I got them from another person on this site that runs 65 - 75 MPH. :eek: Respond here or Email me if you want them.
AMMOACE

[ammoace]

Here are the tips that I have from someone else. I don't know his BB name so I will let him remain nameless.
41T 64P Pinion with 96T 64P Spur or 26T 48P Pinion with 84T 48P spur. :cool:
P2K Pro motor ;)
Capped Jaco Tires made for Veledome Racing, he said the Jaco seem to last longer than BSR tires.
Big wing in the rear, like an off-road wing, a spoiler just will not be enough going that fast.
White Lightening on the gears, most Bicycle shops should carry this stuff.
Ford Taurus Body seems to be the fastest.

My input to this is checkout the world speed record article in RCCA. The 111mph car is the 10L3O slightly modified though. :D

[gacjr0]

start a pan car forum in the vehicle forums like all the others. Maybe that'll work

[tc3guy]

Hey ammoace, do you know how many cells he used and what kind? Thanks for the tips.

[XXXER]

Why don't you guys use the VEHICLE forums? that is what they are there for....

[ammoace]

tc3guy,
He didn't say but since it is a sanctioned event I am sure he used max allowed.

xxxer,
You are correct, I think that I will start this there. Unless one of the administrators wants to move it for me. :D

Actually it had been long enough since anyone had replied to this I thought this was pretty much a dead thread.

AMMOACE

[ammoace]

I have a question that I forgot to put in the above post.
In R/C oval racing is it Go fast and turn left like NASCAR? I can't remeber what ROAR and NORRCA rules state.
Thanks,
AMMOACE

[ 05-09-2001: Message edited by: ammoace ]

[gacjr0]

NASCAR "go slow and turn left".
RC Nascar is cool though.

[ammoace]

B3Tyler,
Which manufacture makes them?
AMMOACE

[B3Tyler]

Ok, Im going to get a pan car, probably the L3 competition. Is that the same as the L3S?

[B3Tyler]

Team Associated RC12L3 or RC12L3O

[ammoace]

Ohhh, the L3S was throwing me off. If they are anything like thier 1/12the scale brothers either should be great. I drive my 10LS more then the L3O because I just like it's wider stance and stability. If you haven't driven a pan car be ready for some real touchy throttle and steering. These things are very quick. They also are a lot stronger then they look.
AMMOACE

[B3Tyler]

Im getting a RC12L3, yes I have heard it is tuff as nails

[ammoace]

Sorry I typoed and put 1/12th scale instead of 1/10th scale. From what I have heard the 1/12th pan cars are faster and more nimble than the 1/10th. Since I don't use my 10L3O very much I have been toying with the idea of selling it and going for the 10L3 instead. Or maybe even going with the TC3. I don't think I'll ever give up the 10LS though. It is just too much fun to run.
AMMOACE

[ammoace]

Well I bought some RRP pinions for my cars and tested them today. I must say they are a lot better then kit gears.
Now I am running a 26T 48P Pinion with a 84T Spur. Still using my Slot Machine 2 cherry motor that needs to be rebuilt if it can be. And I was blown away at how much faster the car was. I need to put a rear wing on it now because the rearend was very loose and it would slide out on me at full speed. Looks cool but doesn't help make the car go any faster. :) It probably didn't help that we had 40 knot surface winds today either. I bought a P2K for the car also but haven't used it yet. I was going to jump up to a 87T spur but am not sure that it will make it go any faster.
Oh well time to get some rest so I can get ready for more speed runs in the morning.
AMMOACE

[ttype3.8]

I race Associated L3 oval cars. I have a car setup to run on our home carpet track, and one set up specifically for veledrome racing. I run the batteries as close to the center of the chassis as possible, zero split, 10 degrees caster, 40wt oil in all 3 shocks, silver spring on center shock, blue on side shocks, purple progressive front springs, and I also run a micro shock up front for front end dampening which uses 30wt oil. I also fabricated my own chassis out of .080 carbon fiber. This chassis is totally smooth with no "open holes" whatsoever on the chassis to disrupt airflow under the chassis. 2000 Protoform Monte Carlo SuperSpeedway body. I run the BSR spec radials (gold dot). Since I run Busch Grand National, I run the 21 turn spec motors and 1300mah batteries with a 88t spur and 36t pinion. TC3guy, I hope this helps if you plan on running at the drome. It is an absolute blast and I can't wait until the next race at the drome!!
-------------------
Brad

[ 05-24-2001: Message edited by: OvalMaster ]

[tc3guy]

Thanks ovalmaster. I'm about $30 away from getting it, but I will still need to purchase the electronics. Do you know if there are like Factory team and team versions of the L3O?
Ovalmaster
I plan on wathcing at least one race before I start racing at the drome. How fast do the cars go on the track? Since it is giute a large drome I imagine thay should go quite fast.

[ttype3.8]

TC3Guy- I believe the L3O has a lot of the factory team goodies like titanium turnbuckles, axle, screws, etc. It should be ready to compete out of the box. If you run Busch class, you should run around 45-50 mph turning 14-15 laps in a 4 minute heat. The 4 cell mod guys can run over 60mph turning 18-19 laps in a 4 minute heat. It's an awesome experience!! I bet you already have, but take a look at the PDX racing website. Those are the guys that put on the event.

Brad

[tc3guy]

Woohoo! I earned $30 yesterday helping my dad build the barn for our horses. I gonna get my car as soon as I can get over to hobbytown.
Ovalmaster
I wish it wasnt so rainy around lately. I havent been able to run my B3 in nearly 2 weeks since the dirt has been so muddy.

[FastDad]

Ammoace, I have just fitted a Protoform Porsche GT1 shell on my L3T, any instability at speed is now history. The shells give a lot of down force without the need for those unsightly buggy style wings. I also found that fitting stiffer front springs helped to keep the rear end from stepping out to much.

[ammoace]

Fastdad,
I was looking at the Tamiya site last week and found a body for the GT-One TS02 '99. I like it because it says the wing is adjustable. I have heard Tamiya bodies aren't race leagal though. I think that it is funny that we both looked at the GT-One Porsche body. Only you actually bought one and tried it out. I doubt that body would fit my L3O car but it should fit the L3S though. I have a GTP body on the L3S now and a Taurus Body on the L3O.
AMMOACE

[dck47]

I too am interested in pan cars... however, road racing is more my style. Anyway, I have an old RC12L (fiberglass chassis) and while I had a great time with it, I'm debating on wether or not it would be worth it to continue running it, or just to buy a new RC12 (the road race car, not speedway model). Any thoughts?

[ammoace]

dck47,
If you go to the associated site they might have information in the faq section or one of the help sections on how to upgrade your existing car. You would have to be the one to judge if it was cheaper and worth your time to upgrade your current car or if it would just be better for you to buy a newer version. My LS is an on road racer and I prefer to run it versus my oval car. For one it is older and it doesn't make me wince as much when it crashes compared to when the oval takes an unscheduled stop or detour. :eek: If it was me I would see if the car can be updated and if so how much, then I would compare the cost, time, and sentimental value against the purchase of a new car. The time and sentimental value rate the highest on my importance scale. I just like to tinker with things and spending the time on the older car might be worth it to me. I'm restoring my Hornet and it isn't worth the $89s I paid for it in '92 in some peoples minds, but it is to me.
Hope I helped at least a little,
AMMOACE

[dck47]

Thanks ammoace. I think I'll get a new 12L3 when budget allows. Even when I originally bought my 12L (back in '94 I believe) I wanted the carbon version. Anyway I think I'll get a new car and then figure out ways to upgrade my old car back to some sort of trim. When I run it, it'll be like taking a trip back into time! haha! okay, enough waxing poetic...

[ammoace]

Sounds like a plan to me. Just don't junk it because these cars really haven't changed all that much. I think the most noticable change to the 10Ls is the three shock system. Also the front suspension has been changed to the new "dynamic" version.
Jerry

[dck47]

Yea, aside from the front and rear suspension parts, its basically identical. Just goes to show how well the design is.

One more question... do they still have road-races basically with cars like the 12l and 10l with sports car (i.e. GTP, production sports cars, LMP style) body work? it seems as if 4wd touring cars have taken over.

[ammoace]

They still have classes for them but I have not heard/read of any real races. The pan cars seem to be more popular as oval races. And they are awesome on an oval. The 10L3O has an unofficial World speed record of 111mph. I'll probably never get rid of my 10LS because it is just way too fun to drive. Plus you can run a wide amount of bodies on it. I haven't had much luck finding a real nice HIGH down force body for my 10L3O other then NASCAR bodies. Or I might just replace the chassis for the 10L3T chassis. The "wide" version of the 10L3.
Jerry

[FastDadUK]

Ammoace, did you get the RCCA back issues, my E-mail address has changed if you want the June 99 issue. vfbstuttgart@lineone.net

[ammoace]

I just got them today. And it is exactly what you said they would be. Thanks for the great tip. :D

For those that are wondering what we are talking about the June 99 issue has some GREAT information for on road oval setups and car reviews. I highly suggest getting it. It is well worth the effort to order the issue if you don't already have it. In my opinion both beginners and racers can benifit from the information.
Jerry

[ 06-06-2001: Message edited by: ammoace ]

[atm92484]

I'm a little late on this I know. I don't own a pan car but my friend just got an L3 Team Touring. We were driving it a few days ago while we were waiting for his Protoform GT1 body to dry. Anyways the car seemed kind of 'skitterish' under speed. The next day we got the body cut out. As soon as the body was put on it made a huge difference. I've never driven a pan car before but this car handled great with this body-even just from going up and down the street.

I just ordered an HPI Super F1. Its brand new and still in the box. Do you guys think I should build it or just keep it in the box?

[ 06-07-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[ammoace]

Well pan cars are so light they need the down force that a body can provide to be "controllable" while at speed. My L3O is doing about 45mph to about 50mph and it spins out at speed a lot. I am trying to find a high down force body right now. I'll probly just go to another Ford Taurus High downforce body from Pro-Line. My Taurus body doesn't have a spoiler on the back but the rear section is removed.
As far as keeping a kit in the box, there is no way I could resist building and driving it. It just isn't in my dna to allow me to do that. If you can handle seeing it sit on a shelf for years and fight the urge to run it then you have more resiliance then I. :D
Jerry

[tc3guy]

Ammoace you might check your chassis tweek that could make it spin out.

[ammoace]

Yeah you are probably right. I had it set up for flat oval and now I am just doing speed runs. It turns left really well though. :D
Jerry

[ttype3.8]

Hey TC3 Guy- Did you get your L3oval yet? The next veledrome race in only a few short weeks away!! :D

Brad

[nitrodriver]

I just got my RC10L3 touring team (the one atm92484 was talking about) a few weeks ago and i have to say i love this car. This car is impossible to flip, i have litreally tried to flip it and it wont flip.

You have to run this car with the body on. I was doing runs up and down the street and i could not go in a straight line and it was unstable. With the body on this car is so stable at high speeds. Any beginner could handle this car.

[ 07-12-2001: Message edited by: nitrodriver ]

[ammoace]

nitrodriver,
What body is that? It looks perfect for my 10LS road car. Yours is pretty sweet!
Jerry

[nitrodriver]

ammoace, thats the Protoform Porsche GT-1 body.

[ammoace]

Nitrodriver,
Thanks for information. Do you have a part number for that body? I will have to hunt around Tower for it. It looks like it has a lot of downforce.
I am looking for HIGH downforce bodies for my L3O and my LS pan cars so if anyone has any suggestions please let me know. :)
I have been wanting to run different types of bodies on my pan cars like the TC3 Siverado body. But how do you measure a pan car chassis to check if they fit the touring car bodies.
Thanks,
Jerry

[tc3guy]

Ovlamaster,
I got my car last monday but since my computer has been broken I havent been able to post. I was biulding great until I got to putting the pivot socket things on the T-bar when I noticed I had three of one kind of the pivot sockets and only one of the other. I had to stop building because its pretty major part of assmebly. I have one coming in the mail right now from associated. I have also ordered a P2K, deans 2 pin ultra plugs, and the June 1999 issue of RC Car Action. My grandma has ordered all of this stuff for my for my birthday. Which is only 7 days away.
I hope this june issue helps with tuning for oval. Ovalmaster have you ever driven at the oval at hobbytown USA in castleton? If you havent youve got to the people are so nice there. When I was racing for the first time I needed lots of help. I had 4 people around my pit space helping me and giving me tips.I was racing my TC3 on the oval in novice class and boy I think they thought it was more of a crash fest than a race. I actually became a better driver after going through that because you had to avoid crashing from people all the time.

[atm92484]

ammoace, here is the link to that GT1 body on Tower: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXRT96&P=0

I'm pretty sure any touring car body will fit pan cars.

[B3Tyler]

Im getting my 12L3 on Monday...yay. Running 1/12 you dont have very many bodies to choose from. Does anyone know about a Nissan p-35 GTp? I hope its a good body, its a protoform

[ammoace]

Well the body is on order. Now I need to get a water/moister seperator for my compressor so that I can use it with my airbrush. I've heard that this seperator is a must to keep the paint from getting too thin when the compressor pulls the moister out of the air and mixing it with the paint.
Jerry

[tc3guy]

Is this forum dead?

[ammoace]

I hope not, it is one of the few places people have been talking about Pan Cars.
Jerry

[ammoace]

Nitrodriver,
Do you have any painting tips on how to detail that body? I want to accent the things like the roof scoop and other ducts. Does anyone have a pic of the prototype, full size car? I want to see what it is supposed to look like and maybe try to match it.
Jerry

[ammoace]

Nitrodriver or Fastdad,
I forgot to ask if I was correct in assuming that the rear ends up being mostly cut out after the spoiler is cut loose? And does it have the overspray protective film on the body? I can't tell and don't want to try and peel it up until I am done painting.
Thanks again,
Jerry

[atm92484]

Nitrodriver just moved. Now theres no one near me to drive with. :( He should be back online in a few days.

Yes the GT1 body is cut out in the back once its done. Personally I think it looks pretty cool driving around and being able to see the motor. Also the GT1 doesn't have overspray film.

[ammoace]

Ohhh great, now I have to learn how to airbrush a body with one that doesn't have overspray protective film. Well I guess I better wait for the new painting and detail book that Bob Hastings just wrote and is for sale through RC Store.
Is everyone moving around here? I think Nitrodriver is the third person in the last two months to move. Sure wish our Glorious United States Air Force would see the wisdom of moving me back to San Antonio real soon. :D ;) :D
Jerry

[atm92484]

lol. What I've always done for overspray film is you take some Saran Wrap (or anything similar) and tape it onto the outside of the body. Then when you are done all you have to do is remove the plastic and tape. You can also use the bag that the body comes in for this.

[ammoace]

TC3 guy,
Did you get your issue yet? And did you get your car finished?
Jerry

[atm92484]

I just went to my LHS today to get the rest of the stuff to finish my Super F1. The only thing I still need are batteries and a charger. I'm looking at these Trinity 1400 saddle packs. They are only $15 a pack and all I'd be doing is messing around. Do you guys have any other suggestion? I don't really want to spend any more than $30/pack and I can use sticks.

Thanks.

[ammoace]

Trinity 1900 Monster Maxx Paxx, $42.99 a pair or the 1900 Time Warps $22.99 each. These are Tower prices and are stick packs. I have the Time Warps and I like them a lot.
I think that is about the best price for a pre-built saddle pack that you are going to find.
Jerry

[tc3guy]

I love that June issue! It will really help me when I start to tune my car.I havent finished my car yet because I'm still waiting for the dang part. Its been over a week and hasent come. I'm statring to wonder if they even got my order. This is driving me crazy!!! In my spare time I have bought everything I need to run it, I have even built the diff which I have the wheels screwed onto. That is making me want to drive it even more. I cant drive any of my other cars because they are broken. Except for my TC3 which I need to get new bearings for. Ovalmaster have you raced at hobbytown USA in castleton before?

[FastDad2]

Have,nt been active for a while due to constant problems with my PC. With regards the Protoform GT1 Porsche shell, the nylon wing struts are a great addition but they place the wing to high for those after scale appearance of the full size car. Cut them to half length and fit an after market nylon wing (a black one), this places the wing below roof level as on the real car. It improves the looks of the car and does not affect the great handling of this shell.
Anybody who does not yet have the June 99 issue are missing out on some serious Pan Cars, how about an updated issue on this theme?

[ttype3.8]

TC3Guy- Yes I have raced at Hobbytown a couple of times in Sportsman. It's similar to the Busch GN class, except you can run stock motors instead of steet spec motors. Hobbytown's track is pretty fast, especially for a flat track. :D

Veledrome is this Sunday...

Brad

[ 06-19-2001: Message edited by: OvalMaster ]

[ammoace]

I'm with FastDad2 on this, I would love to see a follow up to the June 99 issue regarding Oval cars. An issue that focused on Pan cars, street or oval, would be great too. One reason the pan car isn't too popular, in my opinion, is that it isn't given the credit it is due. They are tough, fast, and simple cars but can be tuned more then I ever thought they could have been.
Jerry

[aspiringrcracer710]

I would like that too. oh by the way, RC Endurance Festival coming soon to a city near you!!

[tc3guy]

Associated never got my order. now I have to wait even longer to get that stupid part. THIS IS DRIVING ME NUTS!

[tc3guy]

Finally I know the part is going to be here by friday! Finaly!!

[ammoace]

I hate waiting for shipments, but at least you are going to be able to drive this weekend bar any other Muphy's Law events.
Jerry

[FastDad2]

And remember to go easy first time out, these cars are well fast and very twitchy. Take time to get the hang of driving a pan car and you will be well pleased with it, have fun.

[tc3guy]

Too bad I only get to drive it around for a few days since I'm going on a trip to yellowstone national park for 2 weeks. I will be bringing all of my over 30 different car action magazines with me since were driving all the way there from indiana. It totals six days in the car there and back. That is not gonna be fun!

[FastDad2]

And I complain when I drive to Germany with the wife and kids to see her parents, it is only 600 miles, and with the Euro Tunnel we can do the trip in 9 hours.

[Aussie_Man]

Hi all, I was wonering what kind of gearing you guys would run with a 21t single on a medium/open track? I just bought a RC10LS to much around with and need some suggestions. Thanks

[psycho]

Hi guys. Sorry about this being a little off-topic, but is anyone running the Kyosho nitro F1 car. My buddies and I just ordered them and we're looking for any feedback people might have on them. I know it's not a pan car, but I figure some of you F1 electric guys must be running the nitro cars too. Any feedback is appreciated.

[ammoace]

Aussie_man,
I run 26T pinion and 72T spur or 82T spur. But that is 48 pitch gears. Also this is for all out speed using a 27T P2K motor not for real racing. :) For a 21T motor I'd try a 24T pinion and a 81 or 84T spur. You might want to go with a 20 or 21T pinion and an 81T spur though. Are you using 48P gears?
Physco,
I haven't any information on your F1. I know I have read people talking about it at least once on my many travels around this BB though. Have you tried using the search engine on this BB? That might help you find past and present topics.
Jerry

[FastDad2]

With a P2K I am running 25/84 on a tight indoor track, this works for me but just experiment, as long as the motor dose not get to hot you will be fine.

[Alacrity]

Hi guys,

I have an RC12L3 that I've just finished building. I've currently got a problem I was hoping I could get some advice on.

My spur gear is loose, even though the diff rings are tightly screwed down against the ball bearings. It seems like the slight difference between the diameter of the bearings and the width of the spur gear is causing a little minute wobble. Getting a good mesh between the pinion and spur becomes basically impossible.

Anyone have any ideas? The RC12L3's rear diff assembly is pretty simplistic, but I'm not sure how to try to fix this.

[FastDad2]

Are you using the kit supplied spur gear and bearings? If so there will be slight movement of the spur as it should be narrower than the bearings, but only slightly. It could be worth replacing the bearings as these are not expensive, if they are slightly out of true it may help to change them. The other thing you could try, and will help all L3 owners also is to replace the nylon nut that (8/32) tightens the diff with an 8/32 alloy nut,
part number for 1/10th cars is 3438, this will stop the diff becoming loose and will also allow you to apply a little more pressure on the diff rings. I do not know what size nut you would need for a 12th scale as the axle may be a smaller diameter. I hope this helps some way, keep us informed on how you get on.

[ammoace]

By bearings are you guys talking about the little diff balls? If you are make sure that you are using the correct size. The 1/10th scale car's balls are 1/8th but I am not sure what size diff balls to use on a 1/12th scale car. I use carbide diff balls instead of stainless/standard steel.
Jerry

[Aussie_Man]

JerryL (sorry been awhile) thanks for replies, I'm runnning 48P gears and have a black spur gear, dont know what # teeth it is but. Thanks

[ammoace]

I have a little tip for those that find themselves counting teeth on thier gears either because the manufacture didn't stamp them or the numbers are unreadable.
On one of the teeth make a correction fluid dot. Then put a dot every five to ten teeth so that if you loose count all you will have to do is count dots.
Hope this helps,
JerryL

[tc3guy]

The part finally came now I can biuld and possibly drive my car in the one day before my trip to yellowstone!!!!

[tc3guy]

The car is finally biult and I have finally got to drive when there is a break in all this stupid rain.

[Aussie_Man]

Ok, found the spur gears #'s and they are 84 and 81, (black and white). But the largest pinion I can fit on the 84t spur is a 17t pinion (48p). Would this stil go alright or should I put the 81t spur on?

[ammoace]

Sorry for not replying for a few days but I have been out of town.
Aussie_Man,
The smaller pinion gear should be fine. The 81T spur should give you more top end then the 84T spur. In theory the small the pinion the more low end and the taller the pinion the more top end. The opposite is true for the Spur gears. This can't be held true for all cars but these direct drive, pan cars,keep it simple since there aren't any trannies to worry about. Pretty much all that comes into play are Pinion and Spur gear size, Tire Diameter, and type/wind motor in use.
Here is what Associated suggests for gearing on a 10L3O
ROAR Stock motor 26T Pinion w/81T Spur
DS Spec Motor 25T Pinion w/81T Spur
36* Stock Motor 24T Pinion w/81T Spur
14T motor 21T Pinion w/84T Spur
13T Motor 20T Pinion w/84T Spur
12T Motor 19T Pinion w/84T Spur
11T Motor 18T Pinion w/84T Spur

This isn't all inclusive and with a little trial and error it should get you headed in the right direction.
JerryL

[nitrodriver]

I'm gonna be throwin in a 15 turn speed gems 2 motor in my L3. Right now i only have the stock gear, 81t spur and 26t pinion. This would probably burn up my esc if i ran all 3 of my battery packs one after another, but if i ran one pack then let it cool off for about half an hour, then ran another pack would it burn up my esc? thanx

[ 07-06-2001: Message edited by: nitrodriver ]

[FastDad2]

As long as your ESC can go down to a 15 turn you will be ok, there is far less stress on the ESC with these cars due to limited transmission resistence.

[nitrodriver]

i have a novak dual fusion... i think it handles down to 12 turns.
i might buy one of those novak brushless motors when they come out. is it true that you can gear them how ever you want and not burn it up??

[ 07-07-2001: Message edited by: nitrodriver ]

[FastDad2]

There seems to be a lot said about brushless motors, but nobody realy seems sure about what they are saying. When there are more people running them and we are grtting more feedback then we will see how they are. The current high price puts me off experimenting with one, but I cannot see there worth in a Pan Car due to there high speeds with just a stock motor.

[nitrodriver]

This forum seems to be dying down a little bit... does anybody have a pic of their pan car?

[ammoace]

I do but I have to link to it instead of posting it since I don't want to pay for ********** .
So here is the link. http://www.camalott.com/~link/rc10l3.htm http://www.camalott.com/~link/rc10ls.htm http://www.camalott.com/~link/ammorc.htm

I hope you enjoy them.
Jerry

[nitrodriver]

I like your L3 oval.... I might take my L3 touring and convert it to oval.

[ 07-10-2001: Message edited by: nitrodriver ]

[ammoace]

Thanks for the nice comments. I hope the pics didn't take to long to load for you. Some of them are rather large.
Lets see, you want to go from Touring to oval and I was thinking of going from oval to touring. You just have to love the irony. ;)
Jerry

[nitrodriver]

Since theres an oval and a touring track around where i live i decided to convert my L3 to oval. I'm thinking about buying either a Losi XXX-S, a TC3, or an MR4TC for touring.

[ammoace]

We were suposed to get a parking lot track here on base but it seems that they decided to drop the project. Bummer for me since I purchased my pan cars for the sole purpose to race on the track. Now I have to wait and see if they are still going to try to get an offroad track going.
Jerry

[ammoace]

Nitrodriver,
Could you remove that banner from photo point please on page two. Or if you rather I can do it for you. I know you didn't put it there. Steve has a thread talking about this banner either in the general forum or one of the website/RCZone forums.
Thanks,
Jerry

[ 07-12-2001: Message edited by: JerryL ]

[nitrodriver]

I just put my 15t speed gems 2 motor in my L3. It flies now. I thought it was fast with the stock motor.... its just insane now. I wish i could get a radar gun so i could see just how fast its going.
O BTW, I got a 20tooth and a 24 tooth pinion gear in a trade. Im using the 20 tooth just to be sure i dont burn anything up.

[ammoace]

Nitrodriver,
I know you didn't put the banner there because I had seen the picture myself. In fact I bought the same body because of it and your comments about it. The banner is from where the online "company" has cut off access to people that choose not to pay for their "service" like myself. Just wanted to make sure that I know it wasn't your falt.
I tried to get a cop to shoot my T-Maxx with his radar gun but he said it wouldn't work with his car mounted one and he didn't have the laser hand held one in his car. It is probably a good thing because knowing how gung ho these on base cops are they probably tried to write me a ticket for speeding if it exceeded the 20MPH speed limit for the street in front of my house. :D
Later,
Jerry

[nitrodriver]

sorry about that JerryL, i didnt even realize that happened. I'll remove it immediately

[ammoace]

:D ttt :D

[atm92484]

Well guys I guess I'm finally a pan car owner. Yesterday I finally got the rest of the stuff to finish off my HPI Super F1. Ya its a few years old but its a cool car to have.

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/023/rW/de/Cw/ba73974.jpg

It has
-2 PCKA with S3003
-1500 Dynamite packs (good enough to mess around with)
-P2k Pro
-Novak Dual Fusion

[ 07-15-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[ammoace]

Cool car, how old is it anyways? It looks brand new to me. Have any pics you can post of it with the body off?
Jerry

[atm92484]

Actually it is brand new. From the looks of the dates on the box it says 1994 HPI so I guess thats when it came out. Anyways I just recently picked it up off of Buy HPI for $125. Its the full graphite version. Apparantly about 100 of these were sitting in their warehouse waiting to be boxed and shipped but that day never came. They found them, put them in boxes, and sold them.

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/011/c6/9w/ym/jl94745.jpg

Sorry I don't have any pics with the body off but you can see the chassis pretty clearly here.

[FastDad2]

That looks a great car.

[ammoace]

That is one nice looking machine dude. I think I have seen that pic before. Had you posted it somewhere else on the BB or am I just wacky?
Later,
Jerry

[atm92484]

Thanks guys. I put it in the "Blast from the post" post created by Steve. I'm not sure if its really old enough to be a classic or what.

[ammoace]

Well at the rate cars get replaced I would think if it wasn't a classic it soon will be. :)
Jerry

[ammoace]

I forgot to ask if you have tried to fit other bodies on it? Does it have a way to increase or decrease the wheelbase? Some pan cars allow you to make the wheelbase shorter or longer but not wider or skinnier.
Jerry

[atm92484]

No I don't think there is a way to adjust the wheelbase. Once I get back from work today I'll bust out the ruler and measure to see what its width and wheelbase is. Assuming the bodies fit all you would need would be a longer bodymounts.

I have a problem with my radio, and it could be my receiver. The chassis is really narrow and there is not a lot of room for the ESC and receiver; they are right next to eachother. I think this is causing glitching; is there any way to fix it without moving the stuff because there is no place to move it to. Once I get my 3 PDF I'll put that in there and see if it still does it. If it does I guess I'm boxing the car up so I don't mess it up. :( BTW I'm using a 2 PCKA in there right now so that could be the problem.

[aspiringrcracer710]

Anybody know where to find pics of the old red and blue Nissans from the IMSA days. Im hoping to get an L2 and paint the body like that

[guggi101]

ok, I just bought 2 pan cars(1 and a half i got jipped but anyway).They came with Trinity Street Spec matched 4 cell packs. They are about 1500 mah how long will they last per run? Also does bolink still make parts for the 1/12 scale Eliminator? thanks

[ammoace]

You should get about 3 to 5 minutes depending on driving habits and gearing.
I average about 10 minutes with my 1900s. But I do more straight line speed runs so the steering servo isn't constantly moving causing more of a load on the battery pack.
Jerry

[ammoace]

What happened, we were on a roll.

TTT

Jerry

[tc3guy]

Ok I need some help. I have just finished painting the body, all the holes and wheel wells are cut. I put the body on and I notice that the rear end has no body clip for where I need to keep the body on the post there is only one at the top. The instruction manual doesnt explain how to mount the body. please help.

[atm92484]

What car is it? You may have to drill a hole for the clip. On my friend's L3 we had to hack about 1/2" off the front mounts to get it to fit right and we had to drill the holes in the back.

[rc_racer269]

Hey guys, im new to oval racing and im likely to get the 10l3O. Anyways i was wondering if u can give me some setup tips and what tires u'd recomend for this track Mid-West Triclone (http://www.triclone.com). I would like a starting point before i hit the track. Thanks.

[ammoace]

TC3guy,
I have had to hand drill a few body posts myself. It is cheaper then buying a new set of posts and easier then changing the posts when changing bodies of different types. It is easy and doesn't require anything but a small drill bit. I use my fingers to "power" the bit without any major fuss.
rc_racer269,
To start out I'd use a good stock motor, P2K, MVP, or Chrome Stock. Jaco tires and get the June 99 issue of RCCA. There are tips in there from the pros as well as comparison articles on the available, at that time, pan cars. It is a very helpfull issue. You can get back issues from the RC Store on the RCCA site.
Jerry

[FastDad2]

Hey Jerry, we should be getting a cut for the sale of this June 99 issue. Just got off night shift this morning, 4 days on 4 days off, 12 hour shifts, it is 1410 here now and racing starts at 1800. The L3T is on charge with a new shell to try this evening, a Protoform Porsche Boxster. The car it self is now 2 years old, the only thing I have broke in that time is the T bar, replaced it twice, and this long winded approach brings me to my point, if more people were not dictated by current trends and peer pressure and just tryed something a little different, such as a pan car, they would save a ton of cash and enjoy the hobby more. More money saved on the race track means more beer money in the pub.

[rc_racer269]

Thanks Jerry,

I should've been a little more clear as in tires. Do u think foam or capped tires work better? And I have the June 99 issue on order since I lost my orignal.

[Coconut]

I use to have a HPI F1> If HPI still has the Ferrari (which they made unlike the kit Mclaren) or protoform has McLaren try to get one as their much more detailed that the kit one. Also the Bennaton protoform.

[ammoace]

Capped tires are creat for Velodrome racing and high speed high banked paved ovals. Foams would be the order of the day for flat asphalt or concrete tracks. So in your case with that huge Asphalt tri-oval I would start with a medium compound Jaco capped tires. But before you purchase anything sneek into the pits on raceday and chat with the racers and see what they think. Also it depends on what body style you are running. A Nascar body isn't going to have as much downforce as the Porche GT-1 body or even the Boxster that FastDad is trying out. Since you are going to be running on a Super-speedway a spoiler on a NASCAR body should be fine without a large wing. The only other tip I can think of right now is to start the race with zero tweek. In others words don't leave the house until the chassis is set as neutral as possible. Then once you get some practice runs in tweek as you feel the track conditions dictate. For some cheap tires try Duratrax foams. The Yellow dot is great for low traction surfaces but they are soft and wear down faster then a harder compound tire.
Later,
Jerry

FastDad, show me the MONEY! :) :)

[Yinco the Butcher]

howdy everyone, I'm trying to start a 1/12 road coarse class at my lhs, Im gonna buy a 12L3, does anyone have any tips they'ed like to share. I'll be using 2400's, LRP 7.1, and a p-35 body. thanks! :D

[rc_racer269]

Thanks again Jerry,

Im likely to go there on Tuesday and check out the action, and tire choices! Thanks again!

[rc_racer269]

O, and where do u find the Duratrax tires? What part number(s) is it?

[ammoace]

I think Tower might carry them. The Yellow Dot tires are Part #DTXC9625 and the Description is Pro Series MNT/TRU 1.5" Rear Yellow.
Here is a quick referance from the back of the package:
Yellow Dot - ideal for carpet and drag racing. This compound offers maximum traction for fast starts and tight corners
Green Dot - the best all-around compound for asphalt, concrete, carpet and hard dirt oval racing. Combines excellent traction with increased tire life over yellow dot compounds.
Blue Cot - the finest compound that is offered in the DuraTrax line, these tires will survive those tracks that tend to eat up the softer compounds.

Again the descriptions above are from the package. And they are sold as "Hobbico DuraTrax "The Long lasting Tire."

I got mine from my LHS in his clearance rack. He had them left over for years and just wanted them out of his shop.

Try this link: http://www.towerhobbies.com/listings/listcttw.html

Later,
Jerry

[FastDad2]

Yinco, try a 4 cell class, it is cheaper and your LRP will have a low current drain, you should be able to race for 8 minutes, due to the lower weight of 4 cells the cars are just as quick as 6 cells.

Jerry, the Boxster shell works fine, three 2nd places and one 1st. And still no breakages.

[rc_racer269]

I appreciate your help Jerry. I don't think Tower carries those Duratrax tires. I'll just see what tires the guys are running and then make a trip to my LHS.

[ammoace]

269,
I'm glad I could help at least a little. The June 99 issue will really help you set up your vehicle better then I can.
FastDad,
I still haven't seen any royalites from the back issue sales from us promoting the June 99 issue have you? :D
Later,
Jerry

[guggi101]

ok i need some gear combinations to use with my trinity ex spec motor. i think ur supposed ro be 64 pitch right let me know what i sohuld use i want good top end speed but i am not racing just going up and down my street

[ammoace]

guggi101,
On page one of this forum I listed gear combos given to me by someone else on this BB. He claims he has reached 70mph on a Velodrome track.
Here are the gears and other tips he provided me again.
41T 64P Pinion with 96T 64P Spur or 26T 48P Pinion with 84T 48P spur.
P2K Pro motor
Capped Jaco Tires made for Veledome Racing, he said the Jaco seem to last longer than BSR tires.
Big wing in the rear, like an off-road wing, a spoiler just will not be enough going that fast.
White Lightening on the gears, most Bicycle shops should carry this stuff.
Ford Taurus Body seems to be the fastest.
Hope this helps,
Jerry

[ammoace]

This thread keeps waving in and out of popularity. Has everyone seen the new issue? They actually have 2 pan cars in it. Thanks RCCA for acknowledging that pan cars are out there and are fun to run.
Later,
Jerry

[tc3guy]

JerryL,
Did you see cyruls pan car? That was an awesome car. I got a problem with my spur gear. I switched over to 64 pitch a few days ago and now the spur gear wobbles back and forth about an 1/8 of an inch. Should I change over to 3/32 in. diff balls. I'm using the 1/8 in. diff balls right now. I think the smaller diff balls might help. Anyone have any suggestions?

[ammoace]

TC3Guy,
Yeah the Cyrul car is so cool. Even the transponder mount was tricked out as to the mounting hardware. I hate aluminum screws though. I keep stripping the heads out. :mad:
As far as the spur gear I can't help you that much. I have stayed with the 48P gears. Do the balls still poke through on both sides of the spur? If so do they look like they are sticking out too far therefore giving you the idea that you need smaller diff balls? A little bit of wobble is normal. If I try to move my spur from side to side it moves about a 1/32th to maybe 1/8th of an inch also. But I have to manually make it move, it doesn't wiggle just by rocking the chassis without touching the spur.
Speaking of spur gears I just took a close look at the Cyrul spur gear. Check out the pic on page 133 that shows Cyruls spur. It looks like the diff rings are not centered.
Jerry

[tc3guy]

JerryL,
I'm assuming you race so I was wondering how you mount your transponder in the car? I dont wont to make a hole in the body and then after the race have a big black transponder mark on my beautiful body. Also do you use tape or some gadget to hold you batteries in? I think tape looks pretty ugly unless its all perfeclty straight.

[FastDad2]

I mount my transponder at the rear of the shell on my GT1 and in the windscreen on the Boxster. As for batterys I have used Schumacher carbon battery straps and alloy posts, some careful drilling is required but the end result is worth the effort.

[ammoace]

I use velcro stips to hold the battery on my LS, it has more clearance, and tape for my L3O unless I am just messing around in front of the house I jack it up an use velcro strips.
The transponder is mounted in the front windshield. But I bet you could easily make a mount like the Cyrul mount using two standoffs, like the ones that come in the kit.
Later,
Jerry

But for the record I haven't raced my pan cars yet. The track has never been built as they said it would.

[tc3guy]

do mount the velcro on the little strips of graphite that are used to hold the battery in? Could I do that on a race or would it not be strong eneough in crash during a race?

[tc3guy]

where can you get velcro like that from?

[ammoace]

I got what I use from work. It is actually 1 1/2 inches wide and comes in a 15ft roll. It has both the hook and latch side of the vecro and should be available at any Hobby Lobby or Fabric stores. The box mine comes in is green and white with the words "Sew-on Tape Velcro. Once I get it cut to length I then cut it in half and my wife sews the two strips, hook and loop sides, together so that if they are wrapped around the battery they connect correctly without being twisted. Just watch the ground clearance between the tape and the racing surface. Even thought the velcro tape is real thin it still can scrub speed off by scraping the ground. There might be picks of the straps in use on my web site. If you don't know the web address or if I haven't already posted here, I think I did on page two or three, let me know and I'll repost them.
Jerry

[ammoace]

On my L3O there is a little slot ahead of the battery slots and then I wrap it around the notch behind the bat slots. And I have crashed real hard, curb check, without the batteries coming out. They get a little loose and might slide to the out side of the chassis but they haven't come out yet.
Jerry

[tc3guy]

Does anyone know of any digital calipers like the one on the un tweak your suspension article on the front page of this website? I need calipers to measure the diameter of my tires.

[FastDad2]

I have just checked out the Bolink site, that should read the new improved site. It has been a while since I last looked but thier capped tyres on the Race Tech page look pretty good. Along with AS, Bolink are keeping the Pan Car alive, are there any other sites that you may know about that have these type of cars. Remember Pan Car drivers are the flat earthers of R/C. aS FOR The RCCA issue with two Pan Cars in, that may well reach these shores in time for Christmas. Christmas greetings, James.

[ammoace]

I looked at the http://www.niftech.com/ site and they have a couple calipers. But the two that I found were dial type instead of digital. I didn't look too intensely so the calipers in the pic could still be from niftech.
Jerry

[Fastoval]

Does anyone have any idea when, or even if, RCCA is going to cover the 2000 ROAR Paved Oval Nats.? I heard that it was supposed to be in the Sept. issue but isn't. Any info is appreciated. Thanks! :)

[ammoace]

Sorry I haven't heard anything about that. It would be nice to see more pan cars in the pages of RCCA.
Jerry

[Fastoval]

Thanks. Have you heard of any oval race coverage in the near future? Just wondering.

file:///C:/WINDOWS/Desktop/Brian's%20Stuff/car.jpg

[ 08-09-2001: Message edited by: Fastoval ]

[NTRacinGuy87]

man how fast are those pan cars...i dont have a track around here but just out of curiosity..

[ammoace]

Fastoval,
I think that someone in the regional forum was talking about some veledrome races in their area but I haven't heard of any Nationals coming up. I'll ask around to see what Bob and Steve know.

NTRacinGuy87
Well the unofficial world record 1/10th scale R/C speed record of 111mph was a posted by a pan car. Mine average about 45mph and I've heard that the oval cars on a Velodrome tracks go around 70mph. The pan car is probably the most simplistic chassis design in R/C today. The power to weight ratio is so great, do to the ultra light chassis, that these cars just about fly. But don't think that just because the chassis design is simple that they are simple to set-up.
Hope this answered your question.

[tc3guy]

The nationals are in indianapolis.

[Alacrity]

Hia pan racers,

Regarding the loose spur gear issue: I have an RC12L3 that I really enjoy racing on carpet. In addition to racing it's a great little carpet burner for around the office :) I have been concerned for a while about my spur gear, it seemed like the diff balls were slightly too large, and therefore the spur gear was slightly loose between the diff rings. After asking around and looking for some guidance I finally broke down and just mailed Associated. According to them basically all pan cars have that slight "wobble" in the spur gear, and it's normal. As someone pointed out above, as long as the spur doesn't actually slide around on its own, it's probably fine.

Digital Calipers: these things are a lifesaver! Having them handy during the initial build of a kit makes it fast and easy to get the length of tie rods just right, and to get even shock lengths right out of the box. After you're done building it's a lot easier to tune the car's suspension when the tie rods are already at their "stock" lengths. I got my caliper at Fry's electronics in southen california, it appears to be an identical unit to the one recently featured in RCCA. One bad part-- it cost about $70. If you build a lot of kits or tune your car a lot it will save you time and frustration, but it's a bit expensive for a single tool.

Nice to see some activity in this forum!

[ttype3.8]

I would like to give a suggestion to RCCA.. MORE ON ROAD OVAL and/or PAN CAR COVERAGE PLEEEAAASE!! :D The latest issue was great. I would like to see more.

[ammoace]

I'd like to second that suggestion. These cars are just too cool to ignore.
Jerry

[Smitty]

Does anybody have experience with the Sport 2000? I want to race for cheap and every pan car I've seen cost a bundle. And I would also like to know if you could race the onroad pan cars on the oval with out problems witht the rules? I want to do both but I will mostly race oval.

[ammoace]

ttt

[Mason Copeland]

What's TTT mean anyway?

[ammoace]

I asked the same question more than a month ago. It means, To The Top, of the forum that is. I guess it is BB slang/shorthand for bringing a sleeping Thread to the top of the Forum that it is in.
Later,
Jerry

[atm92484]

Has anyone here had trouble with the Futaba 2PC and 2PCKA radios in pan cars with the woven graphite chassises? Me and my friend both have pan cars (he has a Team L3 and I have a Super F1 graphite), and we both have had serious problems with glitching. I'm not sure about his because he lives 1000 miles away, but I'm 100% sure my antenna never was touching the chassis.

I've tried everything I can think of. I know the receiver is okay because when I ran it in another car I didn't have any problems.

Any ideas?

BTW before my friend put a 2PC in, he had a Hitec Lynx AM and he had no problems.

[ 08-28-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[ammoace]

First make sure that the servo and ESC wires are crossing the antenna. I use some pretty thick double sided tape to hold my reciever down. I have use a 2PK and Hitec FM and have not had a glitch problem unless the batteries are weak in the transmitter. On my pan car the antenna must touch the chassis in order to route it up through the center shock mount and then up the antenna tube. I have a RC10L3O and a RC10LS and they are virtually the same setup in regards to routing the antenna wire. The insulation on the antenna should be sufficient to isolate the wire from the chassis's graphite. But if there is even a small break in the antenna's insulation down by the chassis you probly will get some glitching.
I hope this helps,
Jerry

[atm92484]

I believe you meant to say make sure the wires are not crossing. Well they aren't. The antenna is brand new because the old one got ripped out. After the new one was installed I range checked it and range it in my Nitro Dual Sport and had no problems. Any other ideas? I'm getting really tired of this thing glitching. :mad:

[ammoace]

OOPs, yes I meant to say make sure they are not crossed. :o
Which car do you have?

Here is what the manual for my RC10LS says:

1. Make sure the motor brushes are free in thier brush holders
2. Try a different motor
3. Try a different radio frequency
4. Try mounting the receiver on its side with the crystal up to get it away from the chassis. Also try adding more servo tape to the bottom.
5. Try moving the receiver to a different location on the chassis.
6. Bundle the radio wires well away from the servo and battery wires. Either can generate a signal into the antenna wire.
7. The new high frequency speed controls can generate a signal which can cause interference with the receiver. Try to keep them an inch apart if possible.
8. Keep in mind that you can also run into outside interference. 75 MHz radio band will tend to be more susceptible to this problem than the 27 MHz band.

Hope this helps,
Jerry

[primuswoostinkinhoo]

what do u guys think is the best 12th scale, im gonna get a 12l3 a switchblade or a carpet knife(the 6 pack thats onsale for 99) ill be racing on a very large carpet road course

[atm92484]

Thanks for the ideas Jerry. I have the HPI Super F1. Ok so here it goes:

1.+2. The motor is fine; its a brand new P2k Pro.
3. I'll try in later and see if it helps.
4. I have the receiver mounted this way with plenty of tape and it still does it.
5. There is no place else to mount it because the chassis is so narrow.
6. Like I said in 5 the chassis is narrow but I have the wires as far away as possible.
7. Again the chassis is so narrow that the ESC and receiver can't even be 1/4" apart so this is probably the problem. There is no fix for it. :(
8. Its the car though because when I run this receiver in other cars I have no problems.

I guess 7 is probably the reason its doing it. There just isn't any other place to mount the ESC and receiver.

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/029/92/Ll/Te/lq71020.jpg

That area directly behind the S3003 steering servo is the only area on the chassis to mount the ESC and receiver. Thats probably the culprit.

Thanks for the advice though.

[ 08-30-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[nitrodriver]

im ATM's friend that he was talking about and i tried everything. I was using a 15t motor and i thought maybe it needed new brushes or something and that was causing the glitching so i tried my P2K pro, and it was still glitching. i tried just about everything you listed, but it still glitched. then when i put my hi-tec radio back in, i had no problems at all.

[ammoace]

Ok I remember that car now. I just never put two and two together. :rolleyes: Does the body allow for mounting the electrics on the upper tray? Or how about mounting them on thier sides instead of their backs? That would allow greater space between the two. There is no law saying that all of the ESC or reciever must be on the chassis so if the body allows maybe you could slide the two apart which would leave 1/3 or 1/2 of them hanging off the edge of the chassis. Just something to think about. One thing I just thought about, are the crystals in the two receivers positioned the same? By positioned I mean if the Hitec crystal is facing up and the Futaba crystal is on the side or on the end this might be the problem. I'm guessing the the Hitech is like mine, the crystal is accessed from the top. And the Futaba I have the crystal is on the side thus making it closer to the chassis. I don't know for sure if this really makes a difference but it might. Just another thought,
Jerry


As far as which 12th scale car is better I have read that the carpet knife is good and if the RC12L is anything like its big brother the RC10L then it too should be a good buy. As far as the switchblade I have heard or read anything about it. But that and 35 cents might buy you a local phone call from a pay phone. :D Hopefully someone else here will be able to give you a more educated/experienced reply.
Jerry

[atm92484]

I tried what you said about mounting them farther apart and putting them on the sides and have them as far off the chassis as possible....still no luck. I think I'm done with this car for now.

BTW both of our receiver's crysals were accessed from the top also.

[ammoace]

Sorry man, You've got me stumped for sure.
Jerry

[ammoace]

Hey guys, it looks like the pan cars are going to get a little more action again. My T-Maxx kinda went head to head with a large tree and lost. Stupid me was driving near top speed at long range and misjudged distance, angle and trajectory of the truck in relationship to the tree. I was at least 100 yards away and could hear a loud, real loud Thud. So now it is time to get the chassis tweaked and figure out way my LS keeps spining out when I try to do speed runs.
Later,
Jerry

[atm92484]

Ya I'm stumped also. Also there isn't enough room between the body and that little upperdeck above the battery for me to mount the electronics.

Does your LS have 3 shocks like the L3 or just one? I don't think they have 3 but if they do, is it possible that one is longer than the other? Dunno but maybe the tweak screws or something are uneven.

[ 09-02-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[ammoace]

The LS has one shock, VCS type and I did check the tweak as instructed by the manual. Both tires now leave the ground and return evenly so in theory that means it is set to neutral/no tweak. I think it has to do with the body being tweaked a little. It kinda leans a little towards the passenger side up front. But you really need to look to notice it. Since it is the back, oversteer, that wants to slide around it might just need more rear downforce. The little molded in spoiler may not be enough at 45mph. Since T-Maxx is out of commision it seems that this car, I like it better then the L3O, will be getting more of my attention. Well at least until I get the replacement parts for the T-Maxx.
Later,
Jerry

[primuswoostinkinhoo]

well im about to win an auction on an rc12lc for 50 bucks or so so i will be in with the pan car crowd now lol

[ammoace]

Am I the only one that has noticed that a TC chassis has a lot in common to our pan cars? The basic shape is the same, the ride height is about the same, and bodies on some are interchangeable. Some even have a chassis that isn't a "tub" and more resembles a pan car right down to the graphite materials used. Granted most are 4wd with belt or shaft drive and the suspensions don't even come close to being the same but the basic conceps are still there. Also the high end TCs have just as many ways to adjust the chassis and suspension as our pan cars they just do it in a more conventional way.
To some it might be a stretch but to me it is still obvious that the current TCs still show some of thier pan car lineage.
Just my thoughts,
Jerry

[rct74]

I'm new to the hobby and I had some questions on oval racing cars that I hope you guys can help with. What are the difference between a 10L3, 10L2 and an LTO? How hard is it to find parts for brands other than associated? I can't decide on which route to take and would like some help in that direction. Thanks for the response!

[rct74]

Thanks for the info. Any one have opinions on what would be better for a new oval car driver, a used vehicle with hop ups or a new kit, price being near equal. For example, I see this used L3O with the following hopups: DYNAMIC STRUT FRONT END WITH BLUE DYED LOWER ARMS, INLINE ALUMINUM AXLES WITH THE LARGER BEARINGS, WOLFE ADJUSTABLE KINGPINS, GOLD CENTER SHOCK, .NEW 062 BLUE FIBERGLASS T BAR, VCS SIDE SHOCKS, NEW LIGHTWEIGHT DIFF SIDE HUB, GRAFITE AXLE, AND GPM BLUE ANODISED REAR POD PLATES. I am not exactly sure at this point about how all the hop ups affect the car (as I stated I am new and learning) but just wanted some other opinions from people with experience. Thanks for any help provided.

[ammoace]

rct74,
The funny thing about pan cars is that almost all of them use the Associated front suspension. And there are aftermarket rear axles and pod bulkheads out there too. Tower carrys a limited selection of parts for these cars and Associated carries everything you ever wanted but was afraid to ask for in regards to their cars. They even have a FAQ section where they discuss changeing an Oval into a Touring/On-road car.
The RC10L series cars come in multiple forms as I'm sure you already know. Here are the ones that I am aware of.
RC10L3O - Oval racing
RC10LS - On-road racing (Discontinued but way fast)
RC10l3T - Touring Car (Basically a three shock updated version of the LS)
RC10DS - A touring or parking lot racer that isn't a real pan car. Associated bills it as a rally car without ever saying the world rally. They instead car it a "Dual sport". Basically they say it is made for parking lot racing while the RC10L series cars are made for smooth pavement/track surfaces.
RC10L2 - is the older version of the L3
I am pretty sure that the above information is accurate but if not I doubt anyone will hesitate to correct me. :D
Hope this helps,
Jerry

[ammoace]

It has been my experience that most pan cars, even the basic kits from AE are pretty much Hopped up.
If you are looking at used pan cars the following is what I would look for.
Chassis, little to no scratches, Graphite, and type (Oval vs Road) (You might want one that has adjustable wheel base too.)
Shocks, Aluminum threaded shock bodies, One large volume center and two smaller side VCS.
Bearings, for front wheels and for the rear axle
Ball diff, enough said (some prefer keyed diffs)
Front Suspension, Dynamic strut from associated is my preferance because that is what I have now and have worked with.
Rear Pod, Aluminum motor bulkhead, graphite everywhere else. The exception might be the lower rear pod plate which aluminum might help disapate motor heat better.
Rear Hubs, Aluminum, and they should be the type that clamp the rear axle. I have one that pinches the rear axle with a set screw and this can cause excess wear with repeated installation and removal.
Ride height An important set up tool is that ability to adjust ride height. So look for little rectangle blocks under the front lower arms and see if the rear axle can be adjusted by exchanging little oval shaped ride height adjusters. These are AE part# 4349 and you can find pics at the following. http://teamasod.alts.net/index.htm Look for the pic titled Rear Pod.

Pan cars are some of the toughest cars I have ever operated. I have hit the curbs on my street really hard and nothing has broken or bent. I do have a personal dislike for the aluminum screw sets that serious racers use though. I keep stripping the heads on these screws so I stay with steel screws and stay away from the aluminum ones. But that is just me and you might not have a problem with them.
If you have any more questions please feel free to ask. I love to help and I hope I have,
Jerry

[rct74]

Thank you! You have been great help. Now at least I know a little more to look for when going to buy a pan car. I think I understand your ride height point as one of the guys at the track last week had his body scrapping on the turns. He trimmed up the body but that didn't help too much. Sounds like maybe adjusting the ride height would have helped. Since you like to help ;) what motor would you recommend for pan car racing? I am looking at a Trinity Green Machine 3 right now and that seems reasonable but would like opinions. Anything comparable to that price range would be helpful (I get my goods from Tower). Thanks for the thoughts.

[ammoace]

Well to answer that question I would have to know what kind of track? If it is a Veledrome then a motor designed for High Speeds. If it is a general paved low bank oval then a well balanced motor that still can provide moderate torque. If it a parking lot motor it should be a 50/50 HP/TQ split. In case you didn't pick up on it notice I don't look for High Torque motors for pan cars. These things, at least mine, are real touchy and if you don't have a great deal of Throttle control it will spin out with easy. Same goes for braking. Like I said above these cars can have a humbling effect on even the best TC driver. And I as an off road driver have been left frustrated for a little while now. :D

Start with a Highend stock motor at first. A P2K or simular motor would be fine. Then once you get the hang of tuning the chassis and learn how to control the controls smoothly upgrade to a lowwer wind motor. But the GM3 should do just fine.
Jerry

[ammoace]

TTT

[tc3mike]

Does anyone know anything about the cars from Calandra? I need a car to race during the winter, and I was thinking about getting the six pack (6 cell 1-12 scale on-road). Is this a good car. To me, it looks like an upgraded version of the associated car. I really like the price too. A rolling chassis can be had for less that $100.

[ammoace]

Sorry I don't have any information here on that car.
Jerry

[fastdad2]

www.teamcrc.com, (http://www.teamcrc.com,) this gives you all the hop ups for associated cars plus all those superb Calandra cars are there.

[ammoace]

FastDad2,
I tried the link and it doesn't seem to work, at least for me. It keeps saying the page couldn't be viewed or something like that. And long time no read, where have you been budy? Or haven't I been looking in the right places? :)
Jerry

[FastDad2]

I have just tried the link from this board and your right it wont work, when I type the address in it works fine, I got the site by typing Calandra on my search engine. There are some great Pan Cars on thier site, it goes to show that they are not a dying breed. As I work for a German company here in the UK I travel to Germany often and can be away at times for up to six weeks. I got home on Friday so I have some catching up to do. I guess your busy right now. Again soon, James.

[tc3mike]

Ok, so the crc car is not its own car. It is a hopped up associated. Interesting. But how do youexplain the low price?

-Mike

[InspGadgt]

I have owned and raced many pan cars over my years in this hobby. Started with a used Bolink Eliminator 10, then when I could afford it I sold that and bought a RC10L. Around that time I also got into 1/12th scale with an RC12LW which eventually became a RC12LS. Then the EV10 came out and I had to have one of them so I sold my AE cars and bought an EV10 and later a Revolver. The EV10 was by far my most successfull 1/10th scale pan car. After 2 EV10s were wore out and parts became scarce I switched to a HPI10GW and in 1/12 a RC12LC. My favorite pan car of all time is that RC12LC. Now I have the RC12L3 and am anxious to finish the electronics package for it so I can run it. I should mention too that while I had the EV10 I also had an EV10SS I bought for 1 Velodrome race...the last RC Thunderdrome where I did quite well.

[FastDad2]

The 12th scale cars seem by far the most popular of the Pan Cars, as well as the Calandra cars the Speedmerchant line of cars, 1/10th and 1/12th do away with the T-Bar and use coil spring rear suspension. As my links do not seem to work, try 12thscale.com, hints and tips related to these speed machines, also useful on 10th scale cars.

[FastDad2]

InspGadgt, before I forget, what bodyshells are you using?

[InspGadgt]

The Calandra link type rear suspension was first on the EV10 when Trinity released that. After that seemed many people jumped on the link bandwagon. It's a great rear suspension but needs constant mantenance. I've found that the new symetrical T plate that Associated uses gets me more grip now then my EV10 had with the links. Currently I'm running Protoform P35 bodys (seems to be industry standard in pan cars these days) but I have ran a wide variety of GTP bodies over the years ranging from the Porsche 962 (My favorite...to bad no one makes a good body like that anymore) to the P-35 and probably everything inbetween at 1 time or another.

[JerryL]

TTT

Well it looks like I am going to be one less pan car. I am currently working a deal to sell my RC10L3O. I sure wish I could have sold it for enough money to buy a TC3 Racer kit, but oh well, I am at least going to be able to buy some parts for my T-Maxx with the cash.
Later,
Jerry

[atomiclayer]

Does anyone out there have experience with fabricating custom chassis out of aluminum or carbon fiber? What is the best way to machine these materials w/o having access to a fully equipped machine shop (who has a mill or CNC in their basement anyways?)? Also, where can I find carbon fiber? I know that McMaster Carr carries different grades, sizes and thicknesses of Al sheet. Any help is appreciated.


Originally posted by ttype3.8
I race Associated L3 oval cars. I have a car setup to run on our home carpet track, and one set up specifically for veledrome racing. I run the batteries as close to the center of the chassis as possible, zero split, 10 degrees caster, 40wt oil in all 3 shocks, silver spring on center shock, blue on side shocks, purple progressive front springs, and I also run a micro shock up front for front end dampening which uses 30wt oil. I also fabricated my own chassis out of .080 carbon fiber. This chassis is totally smooth with no "open holes" whatsoever on the chassis to disrupt airflow under the chassis. 2000 Protoform Monte Carlo SuperSpeedway body. I run the BSR spec radials (gold dot). Since I run Busch Grand National, I run the 21 turn spec motors and 1300mah batteries with a 88t spur and 36t pinion. TC3guy, I hope this helps if you plan on running at the drome. It is an absolute blast and I can't wait until the next race at the drome!!
-------------------
Brad

[ 05-24-2001: Message edited by: OvalMaster ]

[fiat22turbo]

I built a double decker aluminum chassis for my Raider. It worked okay, but it wasn't as good as I wanted it to be.

I used an air powered cut-off wheel, hacksaw, files and a drill with various drill bits including a countersinking bit for the screw holes.

Unless you're planning on cutting a bunch of grooves in the chassis, a drill, a hacksaw, a file or two and some sort of powered cut-off tool (dremel, etc) ought to take care of what you'd need. The cut off wheel in a dremel along with a grinding wheel can do some grooves, etc. but it will be tedious work.

Carbon fiber/Fiberglass can be bought from several Hobby Aircraft supply companies, Aircraft Spruce comes to mind... as well as Fibre Glast: http://www.fibreglast.com/

Good luck,
-Stefan->

[InspGadgt]

Penguin RC also carries sheet carbon fiber in various thicknesses. I used to custom build adjustable carbon fiber wing mounts for pan cars. Back then I used a Dremel with the fiber cut-off wheel and a drill press. That was pretty much all I needed.

[RiftT3]

I was looking at an RC10L3T, and was wondering if there was a way to convert the sport version to a 3-shock rear suspension, or if the only way is to buy the team version.

[InspGadgt]

it's a simple matter of changing the brace and upper pod plate and buying 2 more shocks...

[aspiringrcracer710]

What do you guys think about the idea of having bodies like the Corvette C5R, the Saleen S7, the old Mercedes CLK-GTR, the Porsche 911 GT1, and various other GT style Super touring bodies being outfitted to 1/10 pan cars as opposed to the older GTP style that is probably better suited for 1/12 scale; Would that allow 1/10 pancars to make a comeback?

[fiat22turbo]

I used to paint run my Bolink Sport and RC10L with either a Nissan 300ZX GTU or an Audi Quattro GTU bodies. The problem with pan cars is that they need to be able to compete with the touring cars.

They certainly are fast enough due to their lightweight and they are extremely easy to work on versus the AWD touring cars. They just need to be flashy enough to catch the eyes of the younger kids that are rushing to the hobby shop to buy yet another set of purple aluminum rims or some color changing paint for their Integra/Eclipse bodies.

I would think that a Pan car with a better front suspension setup would be a better compromise as it would allow it to handle rougher racing circuits while still being simple/cheap to maintain.

Just my stray thoughts,
Stefan

[InspGadgt]

Pan cars are the ideal place for GT1 and American LeMans Racing style bodies. And some really good looking SCALE bodies could really help the class. Unfortunately in order for this to happen the sanctioning bodies, ROAR, NORRCA, and IFMAR, need to outlaw the old GTP and Can Am style bodies from racing. And instigate better guidelines for legalizing a body based off of how scale it looks. If they don't do that then racers will continue to use the GTP/Can Am bodies because they just work better...remember whole fields of P-35's? And if they are not more strict about not allowing abortion looking bodies that are basically a P-35 with new headlights and look nothing like the real car they are imitating then the problem will still remain. This is SCALE model car racing...lets get it back to what it's supposed to be!

Also there needs to be a lot more tire development going on for pan cars to make this really work. The big benefit to TC is they can go out on a dusty track and still race well so the people setting up the track have a lot less work to do. There are rubber compounds out there that work well on dusty tracks, better than foams even. Case in point the Tamiya capped rubber tube material for the F1 cars. That stuff worked awesome on low bite tracks...but ripped to shreds on high bite tracks. The belted rubber tires the F1's are running now are not too far off the mark...they work but could be much better. That nice pre-made capped tire for TC that proline makes would probably be ideal on a pan car.

The key for pan cars to make a comeback I believe is to make them look more scale, and to make them handle better under less than ideal track conditions.

[aspiringrcracer710]

Originally posted by InspGadgt
Pan cars are the ideal place for GT1 and American LeMans Racing style bodies. And some really good looking SCALE bodies could really help the class. Unfortunately in order for this to happen the sanctioning bodies, ROAR, NORRCA, and IFMAR, need to outlaw the old GTP and Can Am style bodies from racing. And instigate better guidelines for legalizing a body based off of how scale it looks. If they don't do that then racers will continue to use the GTP/Can Am bodies because they just work better...remember whole fields of P-35's? And if they are not more strict about not allowing abortion looking bodies that are basically a P-35 with new headlights and look nothing like the real car they are imitating then the problem will still remain. This is SCALE model car racing...lets get it back to what it's supposed to be!

Also there needs to be a lot more tire development going on for pan cars to make this really work. The big benefit to TC is they can go out on a dusty track and still race well so the people setting up the track have a lot less work to do. There are rubber compounds out there that work well on dusty tracks, better than foams even. Case in point the Tamiya capped rubber tube material for the F1 cars. That stuff worked awesome on low bite tracks...but ripped to shreds on high bite tracks. The belted rubber tires the F1's are running now are not too far off the mark...they work but could be much better. That nice pre-made capped tire for TC that proline makes would probably be ideal on a pan car.

The key for pan cars to make a comeback I believe is to make them look more scale, and to make them handle better under less than ideal track conditions.


I agree wholeheartedly IG. About the only way that some of the "national-level" races wont become raging TC festivals is if ROAR and NORRCA decided to use body styles from ALMS (Audi R8, "authentic" Bentley LMP Speed 8 or whatever the number is, Saleen S7R, Corvette C5R; or Grand American GT or AGT racing (check out Speed Channel if you dont know what Grand American Road Racing is like) bodies like the Marcos, Mosler, again the Corvette C5R, the Saleen S7R, the Jaguar XKR, the Panoz Esperante (not to be confused with the Panoz LMP that is racing in tha ALMS series), the Ford Mustang Cobra (I know that I am now getting into bodies from the Trans Am series, but the point is still the same), and so forth. ROAR needs to come out of whatever stupor that there wuest forthe almighty dollar had put them in, wise up to the fact that there are still people out there that race pan cars and would like to see them at a national level, and also change the rules for pan car bodies to accomodate these body styles. Anybody agree with me?

[crono man]

hey guys i want to race pan cars this winter but i have some few questions for you..

1.is there a big difference in speed between 1/12 and 1/10cars?

2.if i go the 1/10 route which car would you recommend the most rc10l3 or rc10l2?

thanks for any input:)

[TORQUER]

Hey folks. I just stumbled across this topic and think it’s great to see some enthusiasm left about pan cars. Personally, I think that pan cars are the best. Too bad the class gave way to touring. I think that the biggest problem is that track owners just don’t want to spend the time on track grooming. I had a chance to race at a new track at the LHS last year. I dug out the 10LS out of the closet and hit the track. The track was groomed pretty well (not great but good enough). There was a whole arsenal of TC’s, gas and electric. There was no class for pan cars so they let me run with them anyway. It was not till after the practice session was over when I had everyone’s attention. This was due to the fact that I was putting down the fastest/quickest lap times of both gas and electric. Mind you, I have not raced on road for many moons due to the fact of the pan car fading out. The racing was a real blast considering I went there not thinking the car was going to run so well. Just went there for a little fun.

I raced there for a while during that season to try and promote the pan cars with no avail. This season I went back to the track and the owner stopped putting an effort in grooming the track. So, needles to say, the ‘ol LS did not fair too well. I was spinning out so much that at in the first heat I got hit so hard that my axle broke. Oh well, I still had fun while it lasted. Now I decided that the LS will just get in the way of some of the good racing action there, so she’s back in the closet for now.

I just miss the good ‘ol days of seeing a whole fleet of p35’s whisking and darting around the track at unreal speeds. I really hope that the pan cars will make a come back soon. I’ll be sticking my head in here often to see what’s going on and to help promote he best on road radio control racecar…the pan car.

Thanks for listening to me babble,

Will

http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/rc10ls/websize/PanCar3.jpg http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/rc10ls//10LS7.jpg

[crono man]

TORQUER-i know what your saying the other day i was at my lhs and he had a rc12l3 for sale(first i ever saw one) my jaw dropped at how simple this thing is..i mean it just looked fast and effiencient compared to toring cars.
its refreshing to see something this simple and reliable nowadays.

ill be getting one pretty soon
:D

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by crono man
hey guys i want to race pan cars this winter but i have some few questions for you..

1.is there a big difference in speed between 1/12 and 1/10cars?

2.if i go the 1/10 route which car would you recommend the most rc10l3 or rc10l2?

thanks for any input:)

Not a huge difference in speed...but some. 1/12ths are faster with the same motor and batteries than 1/10ths because they are much lighter. But 1/10ths are much more stable and easier to drive.

Well if you want to run TC bodies or the Porsche 911 GT1 from Pro-line then go with the 10L3. Or if you plan to race ovals then go with the 10L3 as well. Otherwise go with the 10L2. As the commercial goes "Wider is better" LOL. Wider makes for a much more stable car and almost all of the GTP/GT1 style bodies that pan cars drive best with are made in the wide width.

As for the question you posed in the 1/12th forum about the diffs...The diffs between 1/10th and 1/12th are essentially the same. The only real difference stock is the stealth diff used in the 1/12th uses the same diff rings as the diff in the RC10 buggies and trucks. This is a very hard diff ring and makes for a really smooth diff. The same thing can be achieved in 1/10th by polishing out the rings really good or by running a hardened diff ring/diff ball combination.

[crono man]

cool thanks alot inspGadgt so aside from the diff rings theres no HUGE differences between the diffs?

thanks again
:)

[InspGadgt]

Aside from the diff rings the diffs are identical. All pan cars use that style of diff now. Older style diffs used a thrust bearing on the outside instead of a cone washer but that hasn't been used on a pan car in oh about 7 or 8 years

[TORQUER]

While were on the diff rings, for a quick fix if the rings are not available, Traxxas slipper clutch rings (4622) can be used on the 1/10 diff. Just a thought.

Will

[NEED4SPEED27]

Hey everyone! I'm planning on buying an Associated RC10L3. Does anyone know how much they cost and where to get one?

-NEED4SPEED27

[team24racing]

Hey NEED4SPEED27, If you are looking for Pan Cars you might try either Tower Hobbies or Stormer Hobbies if you want new stuff.

I have a Associated 10L3O that I have raced for the last 3 years that I'm willing to trade or sell too. The car is almost still in perfect condition. I'll give the details to anyone who is interested. Just flip me an email.

[racingtiger]

Does anyone know where I can get a Bolink Sport Chassis with the battery cutouts?

[aspiringrcracer710]

I really dont know personally. but you could always try Tower first

[rc10gtisthebest]

I think have have the ghettoest pan car on the board! What does everyone else think? Its a L2 graph. ed. with a EB-X pro 12t in the pic.

Currently, it has 7t Fantom modded P94 and a dually esc (thankfully lol)

[aspiringrcracer710]

I just scored a Corally C10X a few days ago. once I get some new guts in it I'll post pics

[Taz_S]

Originally posted by rc10gtisthebest
I think have have the ghettoest pan car on the board! What does everyone else think? Its a L2 graph. ed. with a EB-X pro 12t in the pic.

Currently, it has 7t Fantom modded P94 and a dually esc (thankfully lol)

yea i think your right. I know Mark A and my self see that and say ship that thing to us so we can make it look like a ture race car.

[Taz_S]

2003 NORRCA On-Road Nats
Here is the final Date for 2003 NORRCA On-Road Nats. They will be held @ SpeedWorld Raceway in Roseville Ca. Here are some other dates for races in California.

NORRCA State Championships - March 1 ( Show Time, Bakersfield)

4th Annual Speedworld Challenge Cup - April. 26-27 (SpeedWorld Raceway) 1 1/2 day race starts Saturday @ and 2:00 p.m.
great warm up race for Nationals.

2003 NORRCA Electric On- Road Nationals May 16-18 (SpeedWorld Raceway)

2003 Reedy Race - May 23-25 ( Tamiya Track) Southern Cal.

All info and fliers for Speedworld races, will be out in the next 3 weeks or sooner.

Thank you and good luck.

http://www.speedworldraceway.com/

[Tamiya Man]

I don't know if anyone has heard anything about this but when i was brousing stormer hobbies web site i found a rc10l4 factory team oval car. I think it was a typo, because i havn't heard a thing about an l4. The car looks like a regular l30 but has the factory team chassis(u know the one that has the battery tray to move ur batteries forward and back) There is a picture of it in the May 2001 issue of RCCA

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=ASC8019

[Taz_S]

That what it is. The hop up from the L3 with some IRS stuff to.

[aspiringrcracer710]

I have an idea for making the 1/12 Bentley look like the real one

[Taz_S]

any thing new?

The Nat's are next month and i getting ready to go.

[trxstr1961]

I just got a 12lc and am wondering what wheels i can use on it :confused: also, what other boies are there for this nice looking car :confused:

[Archerboi]

Does anyone have a Pantoura car from CRC? I am getting one and would like to know the setups. I plan to run it in the street, and on a dirt oval track. Thanks in advance.

[Taz_S]

Originally posted by trxstr1961
I just got a 12lc and am wondering what wheels i can use on it :confused: also, what other boies are there for this nice looking car :confused:

I think the new TRC will fit it well.

[microrcdude]

I love pan car racing!!!

[Taz_S]

I just scored a Corally C10X a few days ago. once I get some new guts in it I'll post pics

You still got that car?

[Taz_S]

SO we getting ready for the Nat's in OR.

U.S. PAN CAR CHAMPIONSHIPS COMING APRIL 2005 (http://www.fishermenstudios.com/uspc/)
U.S. PAN CAR CHAMPIONSHIPS Forum (http://fishermenstudios.com/forum/index.php)

[Taz_S]

1. Anton Mark (Mark A.)
2. Stiles Tim (Taz_S)
3. Strasnick Mark
4. Strasnick Barry
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.

Ok we need 11 more.

62 more days.

http://www.rc-cars.com/enats/2004%20entry%20form%204-7-04.pdf

[microrcdude]

I think have have the ghettoest pan car on the board! What does everyone else think? (thankfully lol) i think it needs a cleaning!

[aspiringrcracer710]

Hey all you pan car guys, the US Pan Car Championships has a forum now! It can be found here: www.uspancarchamps.com/forums

[Taz_S]

Here is the list of us that are going to the nat to race the funnies class.

1. Anton Mark
2. Ashby Steve
3. Stiles Tim
4. Strasnick Mark
5. Strasnick Barry
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15

46 days left we need to get the 10 more. The thing is we only “at this time” 1 car behind the only class that has 6 cars. That is the 1/12 th mod.

I know of 3 more that are signing up but I do not want to take the chance. It would be nice to get the biggest class at the nat’s.

For the Nor Cal guys I start a yahoo group to help with planning of road trip for us to get everyone to show up at one time to get the car count. This will show how the class use to be and how it can be.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pro10pro12/

http://www.rc-cars.com/enats/2004%2...rm%204-7-04.pdf

[Taz_S]

Here is the list of us that are going to the nat to race the funnies class.

1. Anton Mark
2. Ashby Steve
3. Stiles Tim
4. Strasnick Mark
5. Strasnick Barry
6. Davies Tom
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15

42 days left we need to get the 9 more. The thing is we only “at this time” 1 car behind the only class that has 7 cars. That is the TC stock.

I know of 2 more that are signing up but I do not want to take the chance. It would be nice to get the biggest class at the nat’s.

For the Nor Cal guys I start a yahoo group to help with planning of road trip for us to get everyone to show up at one time to get the car count. This will show how the class use to be and how it can be.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pro10pro12/

http://www.rc-cars.com/enats/2004%2...rm%204-7-04.pdf

[Taz_S]

Here is the list of us that are going to the nat to race the fun class.

1. Anton Mark
2. Ashby Steve
3. Stiles Tim
4. Strasnick Mark
5. Strasnick Barry
6. Davies Tom
7. O’Donnell Michael
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13
14. “Thirdplace”* Have the time off and sent there in.
15. “Jim Walls” *Have the time off and sent there in.

39 days left we need to get the 9 more.

I know of 2 more(Thirdplace and Jim Walls) that are signing up but I do not want to take the chance.

For the Nor Cal guys I start a yahoo group to help with planning of road trip for us to get everyone to show up at one time to get the car count. This will show how the class use to be and how it can be.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pro10pro12/

http://www.rc-cars.com/enats/2004%2...rm%204-7-04.pdf

http://www.uspancarchamps.com

[Taz_S]

On road Nat’s

As of 5-18-04 the "Minimum 15 entries by June 18th" has been waived. But that still dose not stop us, we need to get more cars in the class. So if you going to be at the nat’s sign up for the class and let grow the class.

http://www.rc-cars.com/enats/2004%20entry%20form%204-7-04.pdf

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pro10pro12/

[aspiringrcracer710]

Hey guys, just thought Id let you know that entries for the US Pan Car Championships will open up July 31. If you need a copy of the flyer just send an email to bjwilliams@liberty.edu. I will email it to you so you can print out copies and get it to pan car racers at your track (10th and 12th scale)

[aspiringrcracer710]

Here is the flyer/entry form for the 1st Annual US Pan Car Championships taking place in San Antonio Texas April 28-May 1


http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachm...=&postid=838359

Entries open July 31

[saxtech]

By any chance does anyone have a collective list of bodies (make, part number, and possible link) that will fit on the WIDE Pan Cars (10L, 10L2).

I was at Ultimate hobbies in Orange Ca. I must have looked through 100 bodies and none gave any specs or indicated if they would fit a Wide Pan Car.

The staff and owner did not know either which bodies fit the Wide Pan Cars.

Does anyone have a list or knowlege of bodies that will fit..... It would be especially nice if those that know where to get the wide bodies at can include a link to their source.

If there is not a collective list that anyone has, can everyone that knows of bodies, post a reply to this thread and maybe someone could put all replies together into one list.

[aspiringrcracer710]

By any chance does anyone have a collective list of bodies (make, part number, and possible link) that will fit on the WIDE Pan Cars (10L, 10L2).

I was at Ultimate hobbies in Orange Ca. I must have looked through 100 bodies and none gave any specs or indicated if they would fit a Wide Pan Car.

The staff and owner did not know either which bodies fit the Wide Pan Cars.

Does anyone have a list or knowlege of bodies that will fit..... It would be especially nice if those that know where to get the wide bodies at can include a link to their source.

If there is not a collective list that anyone has, can everyone that knows of bodies, post a reply to this thread and maybe someone could put all replies together into one list.

MarkA would be the man to ask about that. That man IMHO has an almost encyclopedic knowledge of what bodies fit the wide pan chassis.

[Taz_S]

here is the flyer again For the US pan car chap's

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=1028166

[fly442]

i have a rc10 LSO need some info about it

[microrcdude]

What do ya wanna know about it?

[highroller]

It is the 2nd generation of Associated's L series of 1/10th pan cars it was available in a fiberglass or graphite chassis. Like the 10L there were two versions the early versions used the old style front suspension while the newer used the updated LC front end. The only parts the 10L and 10LSS shared were the front suspension, servo mount, antenna/shock mount, side plates, left hub, shock, damper plate, standoffs and tplate.
I own all versions of the Lseries except the 10L2O. The 10LSS I had 4 chassis in different versions and aftermarket parts the most highly upgraded one had a Composite Craft chassis plus upper/lower pod, front bumper, Wolfe long kingpin and front spring assortment, alum servo and shock mounts, Grip Master tweak system (used the Paragon tweak system at first), used Techncraft hubs, bms fiberglass axles later upgraded to Irrgang axles hubs, Trinity body mounts/wing mounting hardware plus alot of other small upgrades.

As far as bodies those that made them have only the SS versions or 190mm width you may still come accross a few wide. Either look for the word wide or w in part number others use L for lightweight or R for regular. Bolink, Parma, Protoform, Hot Bodies, Andys and Dahms were the biggest manufacturers of NASCAR style bodies.

[aspiringrcracer710]

WHat is nice about alot of Associated's old chassis (and even the L3O) is the fact that they can easily converted to road course racing so your possibilities for bodies is almost limitless.

[microrcdude]

Yep, your right. Plus, you can easilly make your own chassis to suit your needs.

[aspiringrcracer710]

Also true. So believe me fly 442, you shouldnt have any trouble finding the stuff you need, no matter what class you race that LSO in (if you race it at all)

[nmt6789]

Anyone know what pitch pinion for 12L4? 48 or 64

[aspiringrcracer710]

Anyone know what pitch pinion for 12L4? 48 or 64

Purely up to you. I think 64 is a finer pitch so youd have to be careful of your gear mesh. (I may have my numbers reversed but Im pretty sure 64 is finer than 48)

[highroller]

Even though the kit still come with 48 pitch spurs most use 64 pitch.
Using 64 has many benefits, wider gearing ranges, less resistance with smaller teeth and quieter.

The L3 and L4 are basically an oval only chassis. Chassis does not have battery slots on right side or sufficient room to distribute weight evenly for road course racing. For roadcourse you would have needed the 10L2 which has battery slots on both sides of chassis and room for distributing weight evenly.

In direct drive like any kind of rc vehicle gearing depends on motor and size of the size of the area. In pan car racing most guys will quote the rollout (diameter x spur/pinion) used for a track and motor combination. If quote a rollout say 2.18 measure the distance across rear tires with a set of calipers then multiply by Pi or 3.14, divide that into the quotes rollout number and multiply by spur (number of teeth) this will give the pinion size. Since no two motors ever make the same power you have to go up or down to finally find the right pinion.

[EGRESSor]

my L2 :D
http://photos.fotango.com/p/eba00454084f00000011.jpg
http://photos.fotango.com/p/eba00454084f00000012.jpg
only for bashing ;)
10x6 motor @ 7 cells 16/81
max speed 106km/h or 66mph
weight 1120g rtr

[aspiringrcracer710]

Only 5 months to go! And I just got off the phone with the owner of Hobbytown San Antonio and we discussed a few things regarding the race (including a lack of an entry list which seems to stem from the openness of the entry process). We addressed a few other concerns that have come to our attention in the past few weeks and discussed some very pressing needs that needed to be dealt with immediately. Expect a major update next week (including a firm entry deadline as well as an official schedule).

[aspiringrcracer710]

http://home.satx.rr.com/rpena/images/USPCC-Flyer.jpg

[UntuchablSS]

Hey folks !
I've just registered to this forum about 5 minutes ago, what a great venue!
I've finally found people with common interests !
I've been searching for an RC10L3T for sometime now, I had one and sold it because no one around here races them anymore....4WD is the thing around here but I plan single-handedly to restore an interest in the 2WD class. Does anyone here know here I can find one for sale? Or might anyone reading this have an extra for sale? PLease reply either here on the forum or in a private e-mail.
I appreciate any and all replies, especially those with attached photos! :)
Have a great one people!
Thanks for your help
Val Ramos
UntuchablSS

[NotWalkinBlind]

I miss RWD, too. :(

Go here: http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/forumdisplay.php?f=114
and scroll down to the Buy/Sell/Trade area.

And there's always eBay.

[UntuchablSS]

Thanks for the link, I was so happy to see a pan car forum that I didn't bother looking around. I've tried ebay, nothing....I've been lokoing for weeks now. I just placed a "wanted" ad in the Buy/Sell/Trade area.
Thanks !
LL2WD !!

[aspiringrcracer710]

Thanks for the link, I was so happy to see a pan car forum that I didn't bother looking around. I've tried ebay, nothing....I've been lokoing for weeks now. I just placed a "wanted" ad in the Buy/Sell/Trade area.
Thanks !
LL2WD !!


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2421&P= (Its on backorder though)

[UntuchablSS]

Yeah, thanks, I checked there too...they have the Sport version, but it's not what I wanted.
Still hoping!

[microrcdude]

What version do you want? Team or sport?