tamiya tractor trailer kits

[wedicotrucker]

on the wedico side of model trucking you have many options, i.e. longer chasis, longer fuel tank housnings, and even the parts needed to pull a full scale 6 wheel box truck. but wedico also has a price tag as well. I would look at all asspects and diside on what works best for you.

[lil_general_lee]

Finally...

[dabait]

Very nice... aluminum rims too!

I just got all the paint for my Aeromax today, but haven't started painting. I'm still not 100% sure what color I want to paint it. I was mostly decided on black, but after seeing a nice blue one, and now yours... Grrrrrr!!!!

[lil_general_lee]

Well Dabait,
It's been a really long time but it's finally finished (almost). How long has it been since I've started ? The aluminum rims do look nice, I especially like the center caps but they are a pain in the ass. Also if you look closely you can see an oil shock poking out the bottom :) Also my picture doesn't do the truck justice since it's a low quality camera. You can see a reflection of the front fender on the door which is a sign of a good paint job. The guy who painted it did an awsome job (also thanks to an $80 pint of 2 part auto paint). All I need now is a radio and a Speed Control. I've looked into the Multiplex Profi Car 707 which is a pistol radio with 7 functions in truck mode. The only reason I havn't picked one up is I'm not sure how the 7 channels work.

So far my semi has,
- Trinity Monster Maxx 550
- Full Ball Bearings
- Full Alloy Wheels
- Full Oil Shocks
- Tractor Electrical Set
- Tractor Sound Effects
- Trailer Light Kit
- Motorized Support Legs

[dabait]

Is that radio available in the US (US frequencies)? It sure looks nice, and quite capable based on this web page: ModelSpot (http://www.modelspot.com/mpx/car.htm). The "Where to Buy" (http://www.multiplexusa.com/WTB_files/wtb.htm) for MultiplexUSA lists some dealers... all I've found so far are there non-radio products for sale.

I oughta give the oil-shocks a try on at least one of my trucks... seems like with the right oil and damper plates that they could really minimize the bounciness.

[lil_general_lee]

Dabait,
Hitec USA bought Multiplex and distributes their product in the US, I'm not sure if they are available yet but it's worth a try. Call hitec or visit their web site for more info.

Honestly if I were you I wouldn't buy the oil shocks unless you did some modification. They arn't a VCS style shock, they are an emulsion shock. Emulsion shocks mix oil and air together, thus when the shock sits a while an air bubble collects at the top. This isn't much of an issue on offroad vehicles since the piston sits at the bottom away from the bubble. The problem with the tamiya shocks is they mount them inverted, which means the air bubble collects right where the piston is virtually making it useless. Personally I run mine dry. But if you wanted to fill them with oil I'd take a sponge or a piece of sponge from a VCS shock and stick it in the tamiya shock. The best thing I can think of off hand is the sponge from associateds TC3 shocks. They are available in a rebuild kit for something like $4. The sponge will trap the air so it can't escape, but will compress as the shock shaft enters the body.

RJ

RJ

[dabait]

Thanks... that's good information to have regarding the shocks. It makes me wonder if there'd be some way to modify the stock units to provide some damping action... maybe some memory foam or something?

[Chase023]

Maybe put in a small spring like the stock shocks but use the oil too??

[wedicotrucker]

you may also try a diferant man. of shocks. theres a company called custom works, that make dirt oval race cars that use shocks that may work with a little modifacation.

[maX energ]

In my 1850L the suspension is waayyyy softer than my King Hauler..

oh yea, big problem....my truck wont enter 3rd gear correctly..it just makes a grinding noise...its really annoying, i never put it in 3rd because the one time it made that noise...

when i was building it, it went together correctly?...i tested it by turning everything by hand..it worked..any ideas?...and for some reason there is alot of resistance on the gear changing shaft when going from 2nd to 3rd... i think im going to have to drop the tranny, rebuild, and see whats up

but other than that...the truck is flawless...

[dabait]

Sounds like you need to either adjust the servo or adjust the radio trims to get into 3rd. I get that grinding occasionally too... I don't think permanent damage is possible unless you do this a LOT.

By the way... nice truck! I've been thinking of getting that model to round out my collection... well, I'd need a King Hauler too :D

[379]

what paticular offroad rc do these compare to in short grass or sod possibly used as a wrecker in a 1/10 race

[maX energ]

its not the trims, it goes all the way, but it still doesnt go in correctly, i think i have to drop the trans...ughh.h..

thanks, the truck is really really nice, its waaayyy more detailed then my king hauler ;)

[Chase023]

What tooth pinions do you all use with your Rigs?? Do you use the stock 10T?? or something else?

[maX energ]

stock

[dabait]

stock here, as well. If I were doing any heavy hauling, I'd gear it down even more.

[379]

how tall does grass need to be to high center one goin full tilt in 3rd gear which would be about 40mph assuming 33,000rpms from the motor

[Chase023]

Ya I am having problems with going into 3rd.
The 3rd gear for some reason makes my Aeromax go slower than 1st and sometimes just makes grinding noise and do you guys have the problem where the wheels slip and sometimes not all the wheels turn in 3rd?

[379]

Originally posted by 379
how tall does grass need to be to high center one goin full tilt in 3rd gear which would be about 40mph assuming 33,000rpms from the motor

[maX energ]

chase, maybe we both mis-read something in the instructions...since im home sick today from school, im going to see what i did wrong.

379, how fast are these trucks in grass? i dont think they will be very fast at all, the tires are like slicks, if you wanted to drive them on grass i think it would need to be like turf thats really short

[379]

is it possible to mount other kinds of tires on them like 1/10 st or rally tires or maybe mini-t tires

[maX energ]

yup, try out this page,
http://www.customrcmodels.com/index.htm

hey uses different wheels and 1/10 off road tires, from the pajero and hummer, from the video, pictures and info, they seem to work really well

[379]

yay custom bodies too i wouldnt mind a dodge or ford dually body for them anyways y think i would love a set if i had one those tires look like they could do some muddin light muddin but mudding none the less

[maX energ]

I fixed my trans! :D all that i needed to do was put 2 washers in between the 3rd gear, and 2nd gear sliders, (where that plastic bushing is,)

it works perfect now! :D it was a hassle taking is all apart but i needed to do it, it took me about,eh...? 20 minutes to do :cool:

[Chase023]

From testing my Tranny after I took it apart and put it back together again, it seems to work well but I will have to see once its on the truck for sure.

Wish me luck on using a Kyosho Magnetic Mayhem with the MFU..heh..(22x1 and gobs of torque, and I wonder if it has more torque than the LRP Truckpuller and even that Willy's custom motor?)

I know people like the scale speeds and all but why not be able to speed a little in an wide open area and if I want to go slow just use lower throttle and I still have alot of torque with this motor or even use the dual settings on the throttle.

[maX energ]

When I drive indoors I use the dual rates to keep it nice and slow. For some reason I think my Mercedes is faster than my King hauler..?:rolleyes: ...

I think I might turn my Mercedes from a box truck into a flatbed, and since I have my speaker, vibration unit, and the MFU inside the box, I'll hide them under pallets and boxes that I made..

I've seen a tamiya mercedes with all the hydralics, it was a roll off, ill get the picture soon.

[maX energ]

Got it,

ps, where can I get a low-boy trailer that will work with the Tamiya trucks?

[mackmixer]

I would like to know if they make a mack cab in 1/14 or 1/16 scale? I would also like to know where I could buy it I drive a mack and would like to build one can someone help me please

[Wr95jp]

Hey all,

Been awhile i gave up on the idea of racing them ( think back a few pages )

New prob, I cant find a garbage truck:confused: i know i've seen one in r/c before and it was a front loader

So if yall can help me out or tell me i was dreaming cuz i just started my new job and i thought it would cool to paint one like the one i drive.

[wedicotrucker]

ion the garbage truck check out ebay, goto the r/c derectory and use the key word "loader"

on the mack truck, yes they do make a sleeper cab for the wedico trucks, but they can only be bought through germany. and there web sight is in german text only:( and there is also no price given on the web page eigther. I will find the page and put it in here later on today.

[379]

how much would it take for these trucks to wheelie as unrealistic as it may be

[wedicotrucker]

see if this pic goes through

[379]

is that a pic of a wheelie it didnt come thru anyways

[wedicotrucker]

it would be imposable to get one of these rigs to pull the front tires off the ground. unless you did it with a hydrolic lifting ram.

[wedicotrucker]

no it was a pic of the mack truck

[379]

im talking about the rc i know the real thing is just too heavy to pull a wheelie but maybe the rc can be overpowered enuff to wheelie or will the stock tires burnout be4 it wheelies(rc of course)

[wedicotrucker]

http://www.Brand-modellbau.de/Deutsh/Inhalt/inhalt_frameset.html

the r/c truck is what I was talking abought. just way too lite in the back and too heave in the front.

[379]

i see

[maX energ]

I think ive seen somewhere that someone made a Mack body from wood!

i guess would need to be pretty darn crafty to make that! :rolleyes: :)

[mackmixer]

WOW That blue mack truck is a work of art maybe its a good thing its in German or I would have to max out my credit card..:D They are truck crazy over there in Germany aren't they.Why dont they have shows here in the states they should bring there stuff here to show and sell I think they would do very well...

[wedicotrucker]

they do put on r/c trucks on diplay at the international model and hobby show in chicago IL in oct. and also in california as well. but for the most part unfortionatly there really artn that many pepole that are willing to spend so much money for a r/c vehicle that bearly hits 5 mph. (assoming running all stock) . untill then the prices for these trucks here in the US will stay a bit overpriced.

[maX energ]

When I go to german this year, (exchange student thing), (i take german...duh;) )...well, im going to try and get some hard to get parts and some odds and ends when im over there CANT WAIT!!! im going to take pictures of all the trucks and all that stuff!...i cant wait till June! :(

[maX energ]

anyone know about how many pounds you can pull...im guessing about 10 to 20...but i dont know

[dabait]

On a smooth, hard surface, I think they'd pull 20#'s easy. You'd want to balance it pretty evenly between the trailer wheels and the tractor wheels in order to minimize rolling resistance... bearings would help.

So long as the tires didn't collapse under the weight... the biggest challenge would be getting the thing moving from a stop... and then stopping it :D

It's been pretty quiet in here recently... my Aeromax is still awaiting paint, after that the assembly should go pretty quick. I hate painting, so I've been procrastinating a bit. After finishing it, I think I want to do something with my Volvo. I was thinking of stretching the frame and building a flatbed or box for it...

How's the wrecker project coming along? Anyone else have anything special in the works?

[kruzn]

No progress on the wrecker project. Just before Christmas I bought another full scale project that is taking up all of my time at the moment, so the wrecker is just sitting.

Here is a pic of the new project...64 Tempest station wagon...
http://www.americandreamcars.com/1964tempestwagon0103.jpg

It has a '76 Pontiac 350, auto, PS, power disc brakes, A/C etc. Doing a bunch of rewiring to get it running, then it will go to the paint shop.

I'll get back on the wrecker sometime in the future....
Kruzn

[mackmixer]

I need help finding a use wedico truck I can't find any on ebay is there another place to buy a used truck? why are tamiya trucks so much cheaper is because of the metal cab.I would like to find a used truck something just to start out with build from there would prefer a wedico so I can buy that MACK cab from germany:D ............please HELP

[wedicotrucker]

you may try Ric at http://wwwgardentrucking.com he had a few used box trucks last time I was at his shop. if not he may most likly know some one who has a used truck for sale. and even be able to order that mack cab as well. I know he has a few conections in the U.K.

[wedicotrucker]

for got the dot after the www
http://www.gardentrucking.com

[maX energ]

Nice tempest! the paint looks good even there, what colour you going to make it?

hah I like the rims! ;)

[kruzn]

We plan to paint the Tempest bright red (2003 Dodge Ram color)with dark tinted windows. The interior will be custom red/grey two-tone. The wheels are 17 x 8, but are a bit too large for proper fender clearance since the suspension has been lowered 2". We may have to go to 16" or 15" to gain proper clearance.

Kruzn

[mackmixer]

I found the email address for the company that has the Mack truck cab that fits the wedico trucks.The truck is made of brass and with all the parts and painted he said it would cost 4000 euro I do not know how much that is in American dollar but I think its alot...sent another email asking how to buy this truck....ps does anybody know the winning numbers for the lottery:D

[maX energ]

4000 euro!?!?

thats like...3300, to 3500 bucks?!!? you sure its not 400?

[mackmixer]

yup that what he said it cost, but I emailed him back to tell me in american dollars how much it cost with info on how to order it he said they only make them when someone orders one.......crazy germans

[Chase023]

Um Max.. I think you need to be updated on the ratio of Euro to US Dollars.. It used to be 1 dollar to 0.75 - 0.85 Euro but now its more so at 4000 Euro is like 5000+ Dollars...

[wedicotrucker]

4000 euro's is $5,017.70 U.S.

[379]

will these things hit 35mph

[wannawedico]

anyone here have a Wedico truck?

[wedicotrucker]

Yeah, I have a wedico truck.

[dabait]

Originally posted by 379
will these things hit 35mph

Sure... if you drive it off a cliff or something.

[wannawedico]

I ordered a catalog/brochure from gardentrucking.com, is that where you got your truck from wedicotrucker? which one did you get?Thanks

[wedicotrucker]

no I actualy got mine used from a guy in Iawa. but if I knew then what I know now I would have bought mine from gardentrucking. it would have been less expensive that way. I do have persanol experiance with Ric, from gardentrucking and I have been veary pleased with the way I have been treated from him. I'll be going to his office tommarow for hop up parts and a sound unite.

[wedicotrucker]

the truck I have is a convintional rig, yellow with a matching yellow van trailer.

[wannawedico]

Recieved my catalog in the mail today, I thought it would be a little catalog, but the package of stuff is about an inch thick! Very cool. I'm thinking about a daycab, allwheel drive/3speed, dual motor, with a 4 axle chassis, similar to that black peterbilt with the chrome wheel/tire covers on the rear and the caution lights on the roof. Have to wait for tax-returns though.

[wedicotrucker]

I whent to the gadentrucking's shop , he is building a cat 996 wheel loader. man that thing is so sweet! but at 5 grand its anything but cheap.

Oh, and that blue mack truck can be bought through gardentrucking for $2,500 bucks

[379]

Originally posted by dabait
Sure... if you drive it off a cliff or something.


im talkin about will the motor that comes with it push it to 35mph in 3rd or will it take a higher rpm motor to hit 40 or even 45mph i know it aint controllable at those speeds but i like that kinda speed nd would love the speed myself:D :cool:

[wedicotrucker]

doesnt matter what kids of motor you use, the gearing in the tranny whont alow any thing faster than maybe 15 mph tops, but if you got rid of the tranny alltogether with a veary high rpm motor and 20 cells you migh hit 45.

[379]

since when does a 33,000rpm motor fail to hit 35mph with that tire size with a 10:1 ratio in 3rd gear

[wedicotrucker]

a 10:1 gear ratio means that for every time the motor turns the the tranny turns once, you still have the rear end to think abought. it has a gear ratio of at least 4:1 maybe even higher. so your final gear ratio is somthing like 14:1.
in my custom works dominator 4wd electirc car that has a 2.5:1 drive and a filal drive of 3.8:1 with a 8 turn mod motor, it has a top speed of 65mph and also theres the wieght of the car, witch is only 3.5 lbs with battery motor reciever and servo the these big trucks (not sure abought tamiya but my wedico wieghs 17 lbs so if you want to get one of these to hit the kinds of speed you are looking for get rid of the tranny the boddy the fith wheel and dead whieght you can find hook the motor strait to the rear axel and with bought 20 cells maybe more and a high rpm motor (33,000 is not einough) it might hit the speeds you are looking for, but what ever you do do not turn or your truck untill is has alomst stoped or it will be toast.

[379]

if only the tranny was metal i could cram a nice 3hp nitro engine in there and let it rip[FONT=arial][FONT=arial][FONT=arial]

[wedicotrucker]

even with a nitro engine it woulnt get up to the kind of speed.

[dabait]

I was just looking at TowerHobbies and noticed they've got some of the 1/14 Tamiya truck stuff marked as "Discontinued"...

- Pole Trailer
- Mercedes 1838LS
- Volvo FH12 Globetrotter

Interesting that the 1838LS is marked as discontinued but the 1850L is not... both are based on the same cab. I've been wanting an 1850L, so I'll probably watch those carefully.

Is Tamiya stopping production of these, or is Tower just trimming their inventory?

[379]

thats gonna piss me off if tamiya had discontinued them i like my bigrigs and want to terrorize my cats with a bigrig and my preference is the one that looks the most like a peterbilt 378 or 379 i think its the king hauler

[weeb_beano]

379, if you want to terrorize people with one of these bigrigs, put bigger tires on it ;)

Their styrene bodies makes them rather delicate, and i'm not sure its a good idea to try and convert one of these rigs to use a nitro engine.

I have a project that utilizes one of these 3-speed trannies on a custom big rig with the Aeromax body, and i have had to re-machine quite a few of the plastic parts into steel ones (using S7 and A2 tool steel).

----

Also, i think it is entirely possible for something that uses one of these 3-speed trannies to reach 35MPH. It's possible, but not going to be very durable unless some structural changes to the tranny itself are made.

With a Tamiya Ford Aeromax, Hacker C50L motor, with 12 cells, 35MPH is entirely within reason, though the long-term durability and handling of the truck would be suspect. It would be fun for drag races, and a high-speed servo to handle smoother shifts :)

The same tranny if used on an 1/8 scale touring car project would definitely be capable of 35MPH though. As far as the gear ratios go, at third gear, the ratio and stock final drive is well within the range of what is used on a touring car.

just my 2c.

[379]

its not so much the body as it is the plastic tranny parts the diffs are standard metal tamiya fare but the tranny is all plastic and the torque of hte engine needed to push these things past 35mph would rip it to pieces i suspose the .15FE wouldnt rip the tranny apart for a gallon or so but even that puny thing would tear the tranny up and wouldnt have the power to push a 1/14 bigrig thats as wide as the car it came out of thru the air at 35mph it would take atleast 1.2hp to do that of course 3hp would prolly have no trouble doing so if somehow someone could make metal tranny gears for these things a nitro conversion is a real possibility

[weeb_beano]

The tranny's main components may be all plastic but i definitely think it can withstand the torque of a nitro engine. The problem is that i have my doubts about the rest of the truck altogether. The suspension in its stock form... forget it. Needs much more dampening and tweaking the geometry.

BTW i am assuming the use of a stock Aeromax kit for reference. Bone stock those come out weighing about 7lbs. These trannies are easily underestimated- but dont forget with a box trailer an Aeromax easily tips the scales at 18 lbs.

I've run these trannies in my juggernaut2 and despite not having a slipper clutch it held up like a champ. Since then the J2 has been disassembled and i'm putting it into an Aeromax bodied 6WD monster mutant. Here are some pics to make sense of what i am trying to do:

The tranny mated to the J2 tranny, using it as a reduction unit/transfer case.
http://www.beanos.com/~tsoutij/images/gallery/mammoet/mammoet_progress08.jpg

An older pic of the truck in construction.
http://www.beanos.com/~tsoutij/images/gallery/mammoet/mammoet_progress23.jpg

This current truck is closing in at 18 lbs. The motor is a Hacker B50XL and the driveline is rocksteady. The B50XL definitely pulls more torque than a .15 with a clutch bell can ever do in its dreams and real-life but the tranny has been holding up fine.

I do have a second tranny for this truck that has received all-steel components. Machining those parts was a real pain (since i did it manually, with no set process from start to finish). Its not something i will do again in the near future unless i have an automatic tool changer or unified my machining steps from several dozen to just a handful.

[379]

Originally posted by weeb_beano
The tranny's main components may be all plastic but i definitely think it can withstand the torque of a nitro engine.

a hyper 8port a .40 4stroke xtm 24.7 would it take those engines

[weeb_beano]

a hyper 8port a .40 4stroke xtm 24.7 would it take those engines

I'm sorry, but that doesn't make any sense.

[379]

its a list of engine u dummy

would they tear the tranny apart probably

[weeb_beano]

Ok, i see that if i stick in imaginary commas, it indicates three possible engines...

a hyper 8port....
...a .40 4stroke...
...xtm 24.7...

I guess my question is... why?? Is the truck going to be used for drag racing or something?

It's not that this falls outside the boundaries of the engineering of the trucks but its like trying to adapt a tool for the wrong job... i.e. using an eggbeater as a sledgehammer.

[weeb_beano]

its a list of engine u dummy

Use punctuation, the COMMA is your FRIEND heh ;P

[379]

i said urself tese trucks can tip the scales empty with box trailer at 18lbs and can drag an additional 20 or so lbs around a strong engine would be needed to do so i dont htink the .15FE or any smallblock for that matter has the torque to pull 30+ lbs truck and trailer included ud need big block torque to do that

[weeb_beano]

Hmm. Sorry, English was not my first language so i'll try to make sense of this the best i can.

Originally posted by 379
i said urself tese trucks can tip the scales empty with box trailer at 18lbs

Well, i was the one that said that, so i guess it was just a typo... no biggie... yes, an Aeromax and the box trailer easily hits 18lbs...

...and can drag an additional 20 or so lbs... around... a strong engine would be needed to do... so i dont htink the .15FE or any smallblock for that matter has the torque to pull 30+ lbs truck
Well... that's what low gear is for. But yes, if you want to start a 30+ lb truck from 3rd gear on a standing start, the .15FE won't cut it. For that matter, a single Hacker C50XL won't cut it either.

...and trailer included ud need big block torque to do that
Okay, this is what i have a problem with. Why run such a large engine? It's overkill! If my 6WD TXT/3speed conversion was nitro i would still consider the .40 thumper to be at the upper limit of what is needed to get the truck going - because it has a gearbox... with three speeds.

But i digress. Back to the example of a non-monsterized Aeromax, i wouldn't think of putting a .40 into it unless i wanted to drag race it. What's the point?

Note that I'm not saying it cannot be done. I'm simply saying that with a configuration like that the extra gears are meaningless and i should just make it direct drive, or geared single-speed like a touring car.

You just don't need a .21 modded, or a .40 thumper for a non-monsterized Aeromax + box trailer + load.... unless you want to only drag race the tractor part. With the trailer attached, having all that power but without any control... oh well.

[379]

simple i would tow more stuff han i could stock


i did not say starting from 3rd gear with 30lbs of crap in the back i still think even with a second 7:1 gear reduction small block engines just plain old dont have the torque in this application for what id do so u need a big block .21-.27 2 or 4 stroke or the .40 4stroke to get it movin in 1st then second then 3rd i dont think the .40 thumper could move 30lbs in 3rd gear as a matter of fact i think the .15FE would have enuff trouble bobtailin to bother towin anything ya see the load id carry may approach 75lbs itself add a 20lb semi to that and u need more torque than even the strongest elec motor can provide with the gearing available so u need a brutally overpowered .40 thumper to get that movin sometimes i have no reason to do something i do im a nitro nut if i can i will stuff the biggest strongest nitro motor in i can if u want sheer speed put the 7:1 gear reduction in backwards ie input goin in the output and vice versa and use quad brushless and 3 batt packs in seris to power the thing that may be a speed machine i just want to be more realistic and towing 15x the rigs weight is realistic real petes and kws can pull 150tons yet they weigh about 10 tons bobtail (pullin that much weight aint allowed but they can do it)that simply cannot be done with elec unless u can get 4 or more motors in and they would have to be bl to do it and a .40 thumper will have some trouble doin it even with a 7:1 reduction installed as per instructions what im saying is these trucks are unrealistic in the fact that they cant drag 15x their own weight around without serius moddin ie stuffin 2-4 brushless motors or a .40 thumper in there it could be done but would be hard

[weeb_beano]

Originally posted by 379
simple i would tow more stuff han i could stock


i did not say starting from 3rd gear with 30lbs of crap in the back i still think even with a second 7:1 gear reduction small block engines just plain old dont have the torque in this application for what id do so u need a big block .21-.27 2 or 4 stroke or the .40 4stroke to get it movin in 1st then second then 3rd i dont think the .40 thumper could move 30lbs in 3rd gear as a matter of fact i think the .15FE would have enuff trouble bobtailin to bother towin anything ya see the load id carry may approach 75lbs itself add a 20lb semi to that and u need more torque than even the strongest elec motor can provide with the gearing available so u need a brutally overpowered .40 thumper to get that movin sometimes i have no reason to do something i do im a nitro nut if i can i will stuff the biggest strongest nitro motor in i can if u want sheer speed put the 7:1 gear reduction in backwards ie input goin in the output and vice versa and use quad brushless and 3 batt packs in seris to power the thing that may be a speed machine i just want to be more realistic and towing 15x the rigs weight is realistic real petes and kws can pull 150tons yet they weigh about 10 tons bobtail (pullin that much weight aint allowed but they can do it)that simply cannot be done with elec unless u can get 4 or more motors in and they would have to be bl to do it and a .40 thumper will have some trouble doin it even with a 7:1 reduction installed as per instructions what im saying is these trucks are unrealistic in the fact that they cant drag 15x their own weight around without serius moddin ie stuffin 2-4 brushless motors or a .40 thumper in there it could be done but would be hard

Sorry, but this is basically impossible to read and comprehend. It's structured as one gigantic sentence.

[wedicotrucker]

379, your wrong, a wedico truck with a all wheel drive tranny with a twin motor set up, and a 4:1.1 gear reduction, will pull a full scale 10 wheeled benz box truck with out much dificaulty. the only thing you need is to add whieght over the rear axels to gain traction. You can over come this by simply standing on the back of the truck.

[wedicotrucker]

I should also mention the truck will never hit any thing more than 2 or 3 mph. the motors used are 6,000 rpm motors, Witch are all torque pulling motors. Youll never be able to have one of these trucks to pull an insane amount of wieght and expect it to hit any thing over 5 mph. Or a 35-45 mph truck pull an insane amount of wieght.

[379]

since when is a car nitro engine worth 6000rpms

[wedicotrucker]

motors=electric, nitro engines are somthing I stay away from.

[weeb_beano]

Unfortunately i think we have a communication misunderstanding.

Wedicotrucker is explaining something referring to electric motors, and 379 seems to be referring to nitro engines.

I'm not going to get into that particular issue because I just can't decipher most of that text you wrote earlier 379.

Anyhow, in a separate issue, from the bits of the text that I could somewhat understand:

...load id carry may approach 75lbs itself add a 20lb semi to that and u need more torque than even the strongest elec motor can provide with the gearing available...

I disagree. Unless the load you are talking about has no wheels, it is not difficult to get an R/C vehicle pulling along something that is 75lbs.

Okay, so let's assume your load has no wheels. Is it going to be a pulling truck? Pullers are for the most part electric, and the king size monsters are able to pull loads of ridiculous proportions relative to their size. We are talking hundreds of pounds on a scale full pull...

Electric clearly has an upper hand in this arena. Most of the NR/CPTA pullers are electric... why? Electric setups have more initial torque than their nitro counterparts. Exactly why? I'm not totally sure. We can get into that later, because i am not 100% sure other than to say that the lack of a clutch bell gives electric a commanding advantage.

In a real world case- my 6WD Clod, running with triple C50L motors on stock gearing is able to pull me (160lb) on a longboard to nearly top speed. Let's just say it is fun and scary as hell all in one pop. And this is brushless... which has less initial torque at lower RPMs than brushed motor counterparts.

Sure, this particular rig weighs in at 24lbs. I am comfortable to say i would take on even a dual .40 thumper powered truck of equal mass and tire surface area in a tug of war. But i still would be cheating. Something like that becomes a war of attrition. I just need to hang around until my opponent's clutch bells begin to disintegrate- or i can comfortably jam the throttle and just let it ride- and chances are if i can break grip beyond 50% output the game is over for my opponent.

But i digress. What is the initial purpose of your truck? You mention you want 35mph, but now you want it to be a puller as well? At the rate the performance envelope keeps increasing you're going to have to look at an alternate transmission for your project.

[wedicotrucker]

hey 379, just thought you might like to know, theres a nitro powered tamiya ford aero max on ebay.

[379]

item#?

[wedicotrucker]

item # is 3176437169

[dave56bug]

That Aeromaxx is not nitro powered.




Dave.

[Performance RC]

Hey Dave, didnt know you were over here!

That Knight Hauler isnt Nitro powered.

I dont think I have posted my Knight Hauler here before. SO here it is...

http://www.performancerc.net/KKB0008.JPG
http://www.performancerc.net/KKB0002.JPG

It has plans...

[dave56bug]

Yeah, i'm never going to own a tractor/trailor, but I lurk in the forums to check out the pics, those trucks are awesome.

Dave.

[Performance RC]

Yeah, mine is currently not running. My F1 reverse just plain died. One day it worked, the other it just didnt.:confused:

[dave56bug]

Yeah? That sucks, i've had that happen with an esc before.

Looks like your truck is on a carpet race track, wouldnt that be an awesome race, like 10 tractors "flyin" around a course. lol

Dave.

[wedicotrucker]

I don't know what one your looking at, but the one I am looking at has a o.s max .12 nitro engine.

[dave56bug]

This is the link, to the ebay item# you posted.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3176437169


No nitro there.

Dave.

[wedicotrucker]

try this one, 3176712815

[Chase023]

If you guys want some GPM parts for your Semi. let me know.. I might be getting some soon.

[mackmixer]

hey looked at the truck on ebay for $875 wow he but some work into that only to have his wife tell him to sell it another WOW.Maybe he could sell her instead:D .Q. Wouldnt that melt the cab with the exhaust pipes running under it....:confused: He also said it had a 45 min run time thats cool but for $875 hmmmmmmmwhat do you guys think......

[weeb_beano]

PerformanceRC, that's a very clean looking and well built Knight Hauler you have there... The shift gate on the radio is a nice touch... Awesome job!

You have the same radio that i do for my 1850L box truck... the rotating knob for the 6CH is perfect for putting a little rotating head driver inside the cabin with :)

And yes, that nitro powered rig might be a little pricey but its still not too shabby at all. Its good to see something wacky every so often. Without extreme closeups i am only guessing at how its put together but it seems to be okay... Thanks for the link, Wedicotrucker!

[Performance RC]

Thanks, I try.

I may make a rotating paintball gun on its trailer. lol...:p

I have 3 extra channels.

[maX energ]

I hate the snow!..hah it's finnally starting to go away for good.

Where can I find a driver figure and wheel nut knock off's that look good...

I have these 1:1 car valve caps that the tamiya wheel nuts fit perfectly into, i'm going to find some extra nuts and try to glue them inside of the valve caps, most likely with epoxy or something.. any seggestions?


oh yea, I'm beginning to think about what I am going to do with the rear end of my truck. I found a website that has numerous pictures of merdeces trucks from in and around Germany, and i'm trying to gather what I can about them...Any seggestions? I'm thinking...dump truck, flat-bed (most likely), mobile crane (would be pretty awesome but exspensive!)...that or a log truck...hmm

[maX energ]

Hey, if you check out the Tamiya club website, theres a user there that made a custom vacumm truck ( dual axle 1850L benz with over 2700 bucks of custom work )...the truck is f reakin awesome, check it out some time! :D

[maX energ]

oh yea, on my benz the viration unit makes a |-| 3 ( |< of alot of noise when it speeds up, currently its bolted to the side of the chassis but no matter were i put it, it makes really annoying noises...

anyone know the best placement, or if theres a fix for this?

[dabait]

What's actually making the noise? On my Knight Hauler, the vibe unit shakes the trailer (van), and it causes the aluminum panels to make quite a racket. I just ran some tape along the inside corners to quiet it down.

Perhaps the box on the 1850 is culprit... I'll be interested in the solution because my 1850 kit just arrived (still in the carton).

[maX energ]

its not the box anymore, its the black case itself i think im going to remove off the chassis, wrap tape around it, put tape where the screws are this way there is a cusion between metal and metal...

i'll get back to you on that one...oh yea, the box does shake..not really really bad, but it does have about a millimeter of movement in the panels :(

[dabait]

I'm in the process of building my Aeromax... the never-ending project. It's been taking so long because I dread painting... I just never have good luck, and this time was no different.

The paint was Testors Metallic Black... it's a beautiful color, and in some areas the application was PERFECT, unfortunately, in many areas there were minor sags, orange-peel and egg-shell.

With solids, you can color-sand with 800g paper (or finer) and then gloss coat. With metallics, you usually end up with different shading in the sanded areas because of the way the metal-flake settles when the paint is applied.

I was just really unhappy with the results, so I started looking at either buying a new set of plastics or perhaps stripping the paint. I'd learned (the hard way) that most solvents will also affect the plastic... so I started doing more research.

What I found was that there are some very effective stripping fluids that just wont affect the styrene plastic at all... some are rather nasty, others are fairly innocuous. I wanted something that wouldn't end up turning my garage into a haz-mat scene.

It turns out that Castrol makes a product called Castrol Super Clean that works great. It's available at most auto-part stores, not terribly expensive, biodegradeable, and water soluable... and it doesn't stink too bad... it does burn a bit if you get it in cuts or your eyes.... I chose to wear latex gloves and goggles.

For the smaller parts, I just soaked them overnight in a old coffee cup of this stuff. In the morning, the paint just fell off in sheets. Stubborn areas required some encouragement... just rubbed it a bit, and some fine areas required going at them with a brush.

For the larger parts (main cab, roof spoiler), things are a bit more difficult. I wrapped the roof-spoiler in paper-towels and then saturated them with the Castrol... I then placed that in a large ZipLoc baggie and poured some extra Castrol in there. This got about 80% of the paint off... I had to rotate the bag a couple times to get the areas left over.

The cab... well, I'm still tackling that. If I had a large enough container I'd just immerse it. Not having that at hand, I've got an old Tupperware-type bin, and I've got the cab sitting in there... I can only soak one side at a time... but it IS working.

All the parts that are done almost look like new condition... really good stuff.

Bottom line, if you rescue an old project... or botch a new project, don't despair... Testors enamel paints are a lot easier to remove than you may think.

My repaint will be with Tamiya synthetic lacquers... the model shop guy said they apply real nicely (like real lacquers)... and are perfectly suitable for styrene plastic models.

[maX energ]

yea that happened to my king hauler the paint came out kinda weird..but hey, it wasn't that bad for first time hard body!

on my mercedes i was going do it the right way, primer, and plastic paint...the works....but when i applied the primer...i feel in love with the colour..haha, its a chocolate brown, i like it:)

[aceiii1]

i was was wondering i was thinking of buying the box truck and making it 4wd. What trucks front axel do you think i could use. It needs to be solid axel only and about the same with and same ride hight.

[maX energ]

On the Wild Willy racing website you can buy a converted front axle, its a rear axle but its been modified to be used in the front, ill get the link in a sec, i gotta find it

[maX energ]

here ya go!

http://www.customrcmodels.com/id509.htm :D

[wedicotrucker]

a lot of tamiya truckers are starting to use the axels off of tamiyas new txt-1 mini rockbuster.

[wedicotrucker]

http://www.rc4wd.com has a tranfer case for tamiyas 3 speed gear box for an all weal drive set up.

[aceiii1]

thanks for the links those are a little otu of my price range. i was thinking of more like taking the frony axel off of an x-factor or some thing I just want to know what truck would have the same witha nd ride hight.

[superben]

I need some driving lessons so I am able to do these:

ESPECIALLY THIS:
http://www.hkedcity.net/sch_files/a/vc/vc-05771/public_html/RAY/U.avi

These are easier:

http://www.hkedcity.net/sch_files/a/vc/vc-05771/public_html/RAY/Truck_L.AVI

http://www.hkedcity.net/sch_files/a/vc/vc-05771/public_html/RAY/Truck_L2.AVI

[1/8buggyman]

Basically, you just turn the truck wheels the opposite way that you want the trailer to turn. So if you wanna make the trailer go to the left, then you would turn the wheels on the truck to the left. Just watch the first video again in the beginning where the guy is beginning the turn, you can see his wheels turned.

[wedicotrucker]

thats easyer said than done how ever. it taks lots of practice, patiants and batteries to get your self to that level of skill.

[1/8buggyman]

Yea, I'm sure it does, I don't have a truck.

It also takes a lot of practice with the real thing, although the longer the trailers get, the less squirley they are.

[tkimliong]

all the accessories i installed in my king hauler are available in the LHS here in Philippines except for the telescopic antenna which I got from Bangkok.

i wanna ask about the shop.can i shop from internet. :confused:

[tkimliong]

I have my Aeromax up for sale or trade..
have you sold your aeromax

[baih]

guys i need your help,
i am putting together a ford aeromax. what radio do you use for this truck. i asked the guy at the hobby store for a 4ch. 75mhz radio that has digital porpotional features. he had no idea what i was asking for and neither do i.
thats what it said in the manual. hitec, futaba, airtronics
thanks
bruce

[dabait]

Pretty much all RC radio systems are digital-proportional nowadays... so much so that you don't see that term used too much. Anyway, any basic 4-channel radio for surface use (cars, boats) will be fine.

One of my favorites is the Futaba 3PDF-X... it's a pistol-grip radio with a toggle button that can be programmed to do whatever you want... I set mine up to shift up and down. It looks like it might be getting replaced by a Futaba 3PM.

If you are setting up your truck with the Tamiya MFCU, then you probably want to go with a 4 (or more) channel radio... the two-stick variety. Personally, all my trucks with MFCUs are setup for the pistol-grip... I lose some of the functionality, but I just have trouble driving with a stick-radio.

[dabait]

I'm pretty much finished with my Aeromax... the paint fiasco slowed things down a bit, but once I stripped it and re-painted all was well. All I can say, I'll never use Testors spray enamels again... the Tamiya spray synthetic lacquers are a dream to work with!

Here's a shot of the Aeromax... I blacked out the windows since the only thing you could see was the MFCU. The main body is Metallic Black (Tamiya), the lower aero-panels are painted Euro Silver (Testors), and the bumper is painted with Rustoleum "Chrome".
http://www.dabait.com/RC-Cars/miscpics/aeromax.jpg
(I still have to glue on the windshield wipers)


I also recently built my MB1850 Delivery Van. Again, I used Tamiya spray for the main body (yellow), and then some black bottled paint for the bumper and trim (airbrushed). It's not quite a runner yet... MFCU and servos are installed, but I don't have an RX for it... I also have to paint the trim around the windshield, glue on the wipers, and do the running-light decals.
http://www.dabait.com/RC-Cars/miscpics/mb1850.jpg

If I get brave, I might try painting silver and black strips on the box section to match the cab decals... hmmmm... maybe I can find some decal stock somewhere... that sounds less risky. Anyway... the windows are also blacked-out because the cab is just crowded with wires and electronics.

So, I think that wraps up my truck building for a while... I might kit-bash something using my Volvo FH12 and Globeliner as donors. I'll probably base it on the Volvo cab and just use the axles/chassis bits from the Globeliner... not sure what to make though. A heavy-duty flat-bed wrecker with a working roll-back would be awesome.

[baih]

what size motor did you install?

[dabait]

Who, me? I have been using the stock Tamiya motors in all my trucks. They seem to work just fine, though I'd rather have lower-rpm/more torque.

[wannawedico]

nice trucks dabait, I just ordered a 1850L, I'm going to use a Juggernaut body on mine though, and make my own flatbed

[bpbyrne]

So, I wish I had the money to order a truck.
But, I need to find a job first.
(blatant self whoring: If anyone knows of any jobs for a graduating senior with a 4 year CS degree from a top university, let me know at jobs@bpbyrne.com . Thx)

Anyway, I have come up with a number of 'solutions' for some of the problems I have seen.

But first, let me tell you why I am interested in R/C trucks. I come from a robotics heavy background, so I see the box trailers as ample space to shove sensors, cameras, pc104 computers, and, batteries. I like to play with mobile robots, and the 1/14th scale trucks look like they would give ample room for experiments in the back (and some in the cab).

With that in mind, what can the R/C community gain from this type of discussion?

Here are the two easiest questions I can see:

1. Its no fun to connect or disconnect a wire to control the trailers lights/stand.

2. The trailer has all that empty space... there should be a way for me to put batteries in the trailer, and give the truck that much more runtime.


Solutions? You bet.

Lets do 2 first. When you look at a Cab and Trailer, you notice that the hitch plate is always connecting the two. So, why can we not use this plate to transfer power between the two parts?
Well, I propose that two ring like things be recessced into the hitchplate, at 1/3 the radius and 2/3 the radius. These rings then connect with a set of feelers cut into the trailer part that goes onto the hitchplate. With two rings, you can transfer both the positive and negative power from batteries stored in the trailer.
On the cab, you would insert circuitry that supplies power to the ESP from the trailer, if it is availible, or the internal battery, if the trailer is not attached.

So, assuming that we can develop and do 2, then we should have plenty of excess power availible for electronics in the cab. So, how about we make an IR datalink between the cab and the trailer?
The system would be comprised of a microcontroller reading in the PWM signals from the R/C unit, and then transmit the commands to the trailer. The trailer would have a reciever that decodes the commands, and performs the specified actions (in a typical R/C case, blink, brake, back, raise/lower, etc).
Well, that sounds wonderful, but how do we hide the system? For the transmitter, I am thinking it can hide behind a rear facing cab window, and for the trailer reciever, I am thinking mimicing a freezer unit. (the air openings in the freezer unit would be exagerated to make sure IR light can get in.

Anyway, those are just ideas I have had. I am throwing them out to all the doers on this board who have trucks, and the money to implement these ideas if they so wish.

(i have another idea for a separatable lowboy trailer, but ill post later, cause I need to make pictures first)

Parting words:
Everyone, the trucks look great. Makes me want one.
Dabait: Damn you man, I am envious :)

[dabait]

Great ideas... here are my thoughts:

Mechanical swash-plate:
To handle the existing bus, you'd need 5 or 6 contacts. I'd imagine you'd want metal contact plates on the 5th wheel, and brushes or sprung/captured ball-bearings on the trailer.... seems like a lot of contacts for such a small area. With some additional electronics, I suppose you could serialize/deserialize the data... then you could get by with 3 or 4 contacts. Advantage here is that you could draw power from the tractor.

IR link:
I really like this idea... the only issue I could see is interference when two or more trucks are fairly close. That could probably be solved with some careful aiming so the emitter only "lights" the back of the trailer. You could use a microswitch on the trailer to close a circuit to a battery. A small battery should be able to power the LED tail-lights for quite a long while.

With the exception of the pole-trailer, there should be plenty of room between the frame-rails for electronics and batteries. That'd keep it hidden for the flat-bed and tanker ... actually, there might be room inside the tank itself for stuff... not sure how accessible it'd be.

With the pole-trailer, you'd have to be a lot more clever... well, maybe it's a moot point since there's really no way to auto-hitch that trailer anyway. The support leg (yes, only one) is near the back and only supports the main dolly without a load... with a load, it tips down onto the hitch-pin.

[wedicotrucker]

wedico makes an infared system for a wireless conection between the truck and the trailer, and still have tail lights, break lights, turn signals, and four way flashers and have 2 function from the radio. but needs a seperate on board battery on the trailer.

Also wedico is soon going to be making a frieghtliner centry class truck.

[Chase023]

What motors would you guys prefer to use??

I am right now thinking of using either stock or a LRP Truckpuller.

I also have a 3:1 Reduction kit so I am not sure which way I would like to go.

Are there any motors around 10000-14000 RPM with higher torque than the Stock Cans??

Suggestions??

[bpbyrne]

What motors would you guys prefer to use??
I am right now thinking of using either stock or a LRP Truckpuller.
I also have a 3:1 Reduction kit so I am not sure which way I would like to go.
Are there any motors around 10000-14000 RPM with higher torque than the Stock Cans??
Suggestions??

I have no idea what the specs are on the stock motors, but I would be interested to know if anyone has tested the 'Small Johnson' motors:
http://www.robotcombat.com/marketplace_motorsmisc.html
(you can see a comparison of a small johnson to another hobby motor in a link in the small johnson section)

Quick specs:
Speed : 16,000 rpm @ 12V
Angular velocity constant: 1560 rpm/V
Amps @ nominal: 1.2 Amps
Efficiency: 71.4%
Peak Power: 0.36 hp
Stall current: 91.8 A
Stall torque: 78.7 oz-in
Weight: 7.50 oz (213 grams)
Diameter: 36mm
Length: 65mm
Shaft diameter: 1/8" (3.2mm)
Shaft length: 11/32" (8.8mm)

Word of warning: A stall current of 90 amps will fry your small speed controllers. Be careful.

[dabait]

Grrr... domain registratoin issues... my pictures should be back shortly... like hopefully within a day!

[Chase023]

Should I lock my diffs??

Do you all run with open stock diffs on your Tamiya Tractor Semi Trucks?

[dabait]

Well, I currently run mine open. On normal, hard surfaces such as concrete or asphalt, there's no problem at all.

Offroad traction really suffers though... with the really stiff suspension, it's easy for a wheelset to lift and just spin. I'm not sure fully locking them would be a good idea... perhaps just one of the rear axles... maybe the SillyPutty technique would do the trick.

[wedicotrucker]

you might try looking into wedico rear axels, as they offer a set with a locking diff that will also unlock, but it eats up one chanel on the radio.

[Chase023]

Thanks for the reply. I will just run mine open. I asked because I have a hard time running it in 3rd Gear.

Got any pics of your cool Rigs?

[Chase023]

Actually now mine runs well in 3rd after a few adjustments.

After going thru a Magnetic Mayhem (550 22x1), then the Magnetic Mayhem with a 3:1 gear reduction unit, and a LRP Truck Puller (540 80x1) motor, I decided to go with the stock Mabuchi Silver cans. It runs very well. I am using a 9T pinion instead of the stock 10T pinion. I might even find me a 8T and try that. Still with the 9T pinion, I am getting more torque and slightly slower speeds which is good.

How many sets of the 56509 Aluminum Rear wheel Sets do I need for my Aeromax?? I saw a pic of the wheels and it seems to come with 2 caps for the 2 wheels which means either you use a stock wheel and attach the aluminum wheel on the outer wheel in the rear or it is one set of dual wheels for the rear. I am kinda confused so if anyone can help please do.

Or I can go with these large wider single tires for the rear. Very good soft compound but need custom wheels to install these on.
Anyone have any preference to either go with single large tires or dual tires in the rear?? Any suggestions, opinions on the tires?

Anyhow Take a look
http://www.customrcmodels.com/a7a80e00.jpg

Here are a few pics of my Tamiya Ford Aeromax before I installed the MFU. I must say that I really like the MFU.
http://www.juggernaut23.com/Tamiya%20Ford%20Metallic%20Chrome%20Aeromax/Tamiya%20Ford%20Aeromax%20005.JPG
http://www.juggernaut23.com/Tamiya%20Ford%20Metallic%20Chrome%20Aeromax/Tamiya%20Ford%20Aeromax%20000.JPG
http://www.juggernaut23.com/Tamiya%20Ford%20Metallic%20Chrome%20Aeromax/Tamiya%20Ford%20Aeromax%20012.JPG

[dabait]

Gah!!! :eek: That Aeromax Special Edition is --awesome-- !!!

Phew... anyway, to answer your question regarding the aluminum rear wheels... They are sold in pairs, so you'd need two pairs for your Aeromax. The wheelsets include only the outer wheels and tires; you re-use your inner wheels and tires.

I have experience with both the Tamiya wheels and the GPM... the Tamiya's are a bit nicer in detail and finish, though from a standing distance it'd be hard to distinguish the two. Tamiya's have a bit more detail around the outer rim edge (where it meets the tire), and it is slightly less bright in finish. Again, unless you have a GPM wheel right next to a Tamiya wheel, you might be hard pressed to distinuguish them.

The GPMs also come in pairs, but the big difference is that they do NOT include tires, but they DO include the inner rim. The inner rim is pretty unexceptional, but then, you never really see it. A word of caution though, the threaded holes on the inner rim that secure the wheels together strip somewhat easily. Use threadlock, and be (very) careful not to overtighten... luckily, there are like 9 bolts holding them together so if one strips, not a big loss.

[dabait]

Here's a photo comparing Tamiya and GPM aluminum rear wheels. I only have Tamiya aluminum front wheels, so I can't really compare those... I'd guess they'd be similarly different as the rears (if that makes any sense).

http://www.dabait.com/RC-Cars/miscpics/WheelComparo.jpg

[Chase023]

Thanks for the pics..

Wow.. those GPM ones look pretty good.

Now my question is, can I use a tamiya outer rear wheel on top of the GPM rear inner wheel??

by the way which one do you prefer?

[dabait]

I'm almost certain the bolt arrangement is completely different. Not the pattern so much as how the bolts secure the rims together along with the cap.

I think I like the Tamiya wheels a bit better even though there's still the chromed-plastic wheel inside... you really don't see it unless you look into the holes. There is a bit more detail as well. The Tamiya rims also come with tires in case you glued your tires to the old rims.

That said, the GPM's are a bargain, and having both inner and outter rims matching is kind of nice. If you can easily get your tires off the stock rims then you really don't need the extra set of tires that the Tamiya hop-up provides.

Meh... the more I think about it, the more indifferent I am.... both suit me fine :p

[bpbyrne]

Im always thinking of what I would like to build, if I ever got both money and time. Of course, a lot of ideas require either hydraulics or pneumatics.

So, after browsing for hours on end, it seems that I can only find one supplier of rc size hydraulics, and they are in germany.

Anyway, I thought I would still share the link, as there is plenty there for people to look at, even just for ideas.
Main Site (http://www.leimbach-modellbau.de/start.html)
One really cool part (http://www.leimbach-modellbau.de/Penz.html)
( For convienence: google translated version (http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.leimbach-modellbau.de%2FPenz.html&langpair=de%7Cen&hl=en&prev=%2Flanguage_tools))

If anyone else knows more stuff like this, lets centralize it. Also, if you know of any cool things in general, i suggest centralizing that too. Anyone know where to centralize this type of stuff? (I am in between hosting providers atm, or I would offer. In fact, if you want to email me links for beginning/medium/advanced truckers, send them to bbyrne@cc.gatech.edu, and I'll compile a page,and provide a link here when it goes live.)

[dabait]

Thanks for the link... I could easily put myself in the "poor house" if I ever figured out how to buy that stuff :o

[toyman64]

Anyone using the Multiplex 707? Got mine last year and all I can say is anyone with a truck should get one!!! 7 channels on a pistal grip with FM-AM sellectable, fail safe, traction control, ABS, 12 model memory (unlimited model memory with optional PC interface), timers, dual rate, expo, and all the other stuff that all top of the line radios have. This thing is so easy to use too and alot of fun just playing around with the programming features like the shifting points, retracting the legs on the trailer, lights & sounds. IT'S SO COOL!!!

[dabait]

I've always lusted after the Multiplex radios... I understand that they are now being imported to the states, but I haven't found anyone selling the high-end pistol grips. Any suggestions?

[toyman64]

I got mine from Royal Hobby Distributors but they no longer handle Multiplex. now these guys do http://www.hitecrcd.com carries them. I got mine with no servos cause there 100 bucks each but make sure you get the 7 channel IPD reicever I paid 350.00 but it's definetly worth it.

[dabait]

Thanks! Do normal servos (JR, Futaba, Hitech, etc) work without issue? Are the connectors compatible, or at least close enough that they can be made to work?

[toyman64]

Yes, they will all work as long as they have the mini plugs like Futaba and the wires are in the correct place. I'm using Acoms servos rite now but I had to shave alittle off the plugs to make them fit into the slots. What kind of servos are you using?

[bpbyrne]

I got mine from Royal Hobby Distributors but they no longer handle Multiplex. now these guys do http://www.hitecrcd.com carries them. I got mine with no servos cause there 100 bucks each but make sure you get the 7 channel IPD reicever I paid 350.00 but it's definetly worth it.
Well, i didnt see them on hitechrcd, but you might want to look here (http://www.multiplexusa.com/WTB_files/wtb.htm)

[toyman64]

Yes bpbyrne, one of those guys should have them.

[bpbyrne]

SPeaking of servos, I have had good success using Global Wing Servo's on my robotics projects.

I usually get them from here (http://www.junun.org/MarkIII/Store.jsp)

GWS servos have a futaba connector.

[toyman64]

nice site bpbyrne, good prices on double BB servos and all kinds of other electronic goodies.

[dabait]

Also found the Multiplex radios here:
http://www.rchobbies.org/
http://www.rchobbies.org/multiplex_profi-car-radios.htm

[toyman64]

If you want to check out the instruction manual or print one out go to http://www.mpx.speedkom.net/hp click on the british flag at the bottom of the page for english and bring up the 707 transmitter and at the top there's a red bar that says manual(PDF) click on that to get all the info on how you'll program it for your truck. just to get you salavating over it! But get ready it's 47 pages. and it takes a minute to load.

[wedicotrucker]

so far the best radio I've come across is the robbe F14 by futaba. it's a 8 chanel radio but can be upgrade to have well over 100 chanels. but on my rig, and most others I've seen have only needed 2 proportional chanels any way. 1 for steering, and 1 for throtle. now if you have hydrolics you need more proportional chanels. But becuase jaman does not think those of us in the u.s. have a need for this radio its hard to come by, and thus brings a price tag

[toyman64]

yea, I've seen that one but I think most of us like pistals, there so much easyer to use and with the Multiplex I can drive, shift gears' and honk the horn one handed. and it weighs only 21 ozs.

[Chase023]

Personally I do prefer the pistol grips and I thought about getting the Multiplex Car Profi 707 and I been after that radio for like many months, and probably about a year or so but for my Aeromax I decided to buy the Futaba 9CAP 75mhz. It has 9 channels so its plenty enough and the left stick being incremental, I got rid of that with a small modification I made with the help of asking Futaba techs how and what parts I needed. I must say that this radio is plenty enough for my Semi Tractor Rig and that I really like how it looks compared to most of the other stick radios. I do like my 3 position switch for shifting gears than using the left stick left right and center. Because of my modification the stick returns to center like a normal stick transmitter instead of that incremental movement.
http://www.futaba-rc.com/radios/futj85-main.jpg

For my Monster Trucks I use pistol grips but for my custom one I am going to get that Nomadio sensor which looks very promising.

Dabait, thanks for the pics. I am gonna get me a set of those GPM wheels. I might as well. I mean they use both aluminum wheels for the inner and outer wheels instead of Tamiya's only using the outer wheel. Why go half way!!

By the way cool looking King Hauler. I need to get me a trailer.

[toyman64]

Chase023, I also thought about getting the 9CAP because I used to use a 5 channel stick when I first got my truck. I also seen the Nomadio Sensor and hope the final product looks better than the prototype, it just looks so clunky & top heavy, not very balanced. the Multiplex is so balanced you can hold it with your hand wide open and it rests rite between your thumb & finger like nothing else.

[Chase023]

Don't let the looks fool you on the Nomadio Sensor. They designed it ergonomically so it probably would feel as good or better than the Car Profi 707. It will have much more functions than the car profi as well.

Personally I think all that would be too much for a Tamiya Rig.. I mean they use that Futaba 4 Channel stick Controller to do all the functions using the trims and such anyhow. Additional channels would be for something custom.
At most I think the Car Profi 707 or the 9CAP is plenty enough. I mean I am only using 4 channels at the moment until I consider adding some custom cool stuff. I really like my 9CAP tho. If I didn't get the 9Cap I probably would of been happy with the 4 channel Futaba 4WD Attack Radio/Transmitter, but then the 9CAP is sweeter on functions and looks.. heh

I would think you would say the same thing about your Multiplex Car Profi 707. heh :D

[toyman64]

Yea, I could say the same thing about the 707 but I desinged my electronics in the truck to use all 7 channels.

[Chase023]

What did you do if I may ask and what channels are assigned to what function and such??

[toyman64]

OK here goes, channel #1 & #2 throttle & steering,#3 with the help of Robbe duo switch with memory turn on/off head lights on one end of the channel and the other end on/off running lights, (4 of the 7 channels can be programed to be either propo. flash or 3 stage) the 3 stage works great with the Robbe switches, channel #4 with another duo switch does the hazards and the motor sound, #5 for the trailer legs, #6 for shifting gears, and #7 for the horn. needless to say the sleeper is stuffed to the gills with electronics and it all works great! but what a wiring nightmare in such a small space.

[toyman64]

BTW Chase023, I see I just answered your question from way back in October after reading all of the posts about what to do with all extra channels & lighting, sorry I just got my first computer like 4 months ago and I just found this site(finding new things every day).sounds like you should get a Robbe Duo-switch with memory, you could do 2 different lights with the extra channel but with the MFU you would have to jump onto an existing channel I think, I don't know how many channels the MFU has, 4 rite? anyway check out http://www.robbe.com to see the switches or just wait for the Nomadio to come out! let us know what you do anyway! thanks, toyman

[bpbyrne]

While we are talking about radios: here are some really cool products:
(note, some are expensive, but there is no way that any trucker can use 32 channels :) )

Vantec Futaba expansion system (http://www.vantec.com/khitch.htm)

It is a little pricey though (like all vantec products)
But it allows you to add 12, 24, or 36 channels of on/off (by stealing one channel)

Of course, you could do this yourself easily enough ;) (take some electonics and microcontroller knowledge though)

----------(edit)----------
Oh, and the robbe stuff looks interesting, not sure the legality of a 40MHz radio though....

[baih]

thanks for the radio info,
has anyone tried the airtronics rd6000

[Chase023]

I think I might have to get me that Vantac Futaba Expansion System later!!

Here is the latest pics of my Aeromax. It has full GPM Aluminum parts. I upgraded every part that could be from GPM. I really like the GPM Front animal guard. MFU is really nice!! I don't have one set of the rear wheels due to the fact that I am trying to either get some GPM wheels or maybe some custom wheels so I can mount the proline speedhawgs 2.2.

http://www.juggernaut23.com/Tamiya%20Ford%20Metallic%20Chrome%20Aeromax/Aeromax%20in%20Dark.JPG

[Jakes]

Seen these interlinks on our highways here in South Africa. Never seen one in kitform so decided to build one from some leftover parts ive had.

Will post more special trucks pics shortly
http://www.xsi.co.za/jmlouw/il00.JPG
http://www.xsi.co.za/jmlouw/il01.JPG
http://www.xsi.co.za/jmlouw/il02.JPG

Jakes

[Jakes]

Project Ive done for a company - Used 3 Kits to make this baby. Weight at the end - +/- 30 pounds - Cost - About $2400 (kits and labour)

http://www.xsi.co.za/jmlouw/HPIM0084.JPG

http://www.xsi.co.za/jmlouw/HPIM0099.JPG

http://www.xsi.co.za/jmlouw/HPIM0101.JPG

http://www.xsi.co.za/jmlouw/HPIM0102.JPG

http://www.xsi.co.za/jmlouw/HPIM0104.JPG

http://www.xsi.co.za/jmlouw/HPIM0106.JPG

Jakes

[dabait]

Jake,

I think I saw that model on TamiyaClub... do you have an account there?

I just have to tell you that that truck is one of the most impressive things I've seen in a long time. Quite an accomplishment if you ask me!

The inter-link is pretty cool too... though I don't recall seeing anything quite like that in the US.

dave

[Jakes]

Hi Dave

Yep were on TC - thought I'd share it here. The interling is everywhere here in South Africa!!!!!!

Jakes

[Chase023]

Whoa.. thats one sweet truck.. What are working functions?

[Jakes]

The Merc Vacuum cleaner have full light kit, full sound, 2x esc's (one for drive motor, one for tank tipping motor). The rear tank tilt fully remote

Jakes

[bpbyrne]

Not to continue the innteregation, Jakes, ;) but what kind of threaded rod is that for the tipper? Normal thread stock (ie #10-32, etc), or did you buy a special Lead Screw for it?

Also, I am curious as to what kits' parts went into each of those two trucks.

Thanks

[Jakes]

The treaded shaft is made from extra tempered high tensile steel. Got it from a guy in the mining industry. 4.5mm dia. The normal rod (steel) kept on stripping due to the weight of the tank.

The Vacuumcleaner was produced first - Used parts of both the tamiya Merc 1:14 truck kits as well as spares from a flatbed trailer kit. On the interlink ive basically used some of the leftovers of the Vacuumcleaner and a few extra bits from other projects

Jakes

[mikejg]

I am putting together my first Tamiya tractor truck, an MB 1838, which is also my first rc vehicle. I started with the transmission because I thought it would be the most interesting part of the kit. I was very dissapointed with its design.

When shifting into third gear, the spring next to the first gear shifting fork pushes that fork so that it binds against the shaft. Not only does this prevent the shaft from sliding smoothly, it puts the fork at an angle to the "gear" it rides in creating significant resistence.

I am building a bracket to restrict the travel and prevent the binding. I will post some pictures when it is finished, in a day or two. I am wondering if anyone else has noticed this problem and have you done anything about it?

[CustomRCmodels]

Hello guys , I am new ...
Willy from CustomRCmodels (http://www.customrcmodels.com)

some of you may have searched my website....
besides all kind of R/C vehicles , I am "big time" into modifying Tamiya-trucks and also building my own custom-projects.....

http://www.customrcmodels.com/e5280a00.jpg

I do have good connections to all kind of sources for this hobby......
so if anybody is looking for anything , just pop me an email , or use my forms on my webpage....

I am also the one is making these WWR-TruckPuller-Motors and the gear-reductions for these Tamiya-semis....

take a "sniff" at my webpage , a lot to see....

here now a question to everybody ....
I have seen quite a few of you guys turn your trucks in some sort of all-terain-vehicles , cool , I bean doing that too ....

right now I am looking for guys in the Eastern-US would like to get together for some sort of "all-wheel-drive-events" .......
there is an "super-playground" at a tank-museum in Danville,VA where I always go with my R/C tanks for battle-events....
I would like to get guys together with trucks , all-wheel-drives - construction-vehicles to go there once in a while to have some "serious-fun"

check out the detailes about this on my webpage :
all-wheel-drive-events (http://www.customrcmodels.com/Tanks/id80.htm)

and here a short-cut to my webpage for mainly
Truck-stuff (http://www.customrcmodels.com/id371.htm)

but if you have the time , it's wort it to start from the beginning ...
but bring some time ...my webpage spans over 400 individuel pages.....

have fun...

regards

Willy - CustomRCmodels (http://www.customrcmodels.com)

[toyman64]

Mikejg, Built my king hauler back in 96' never noticed the binding in third gear and never had any problems "shifting on the fly" after it was done and even today have never had to take it apart to do any kind of fix. have heard of some guys having problems after they've built'em because they did'nt do something rite. Are you shur you did it rite? Nice site CustomRCmodels i'm on your guest list and your on my favorites list!

[dabait]

Mikejg,

I noticed this as well when building my trucks... the shift-forks would bind when shifting between certain gears. But, this seems to only occur in static testing; in actual operation, the binding doesn't seem to occur at all.

dave

[mikejg]

Mikejg,

I noticed this as well when building my trucks... the shift-forks would bind when shifting between certain gears. But, this seems to only occur in static testing; in actual operation, the binding doesn't seem to occur at all.

dave

The binding causes resistance to the shifting but any servo can overpower that. I tested with a motor running and an ammeter in series. The real problem was the increased load on the motor. I observed a big difference in current draw when I prevented the binding. It was also quieter. I am sure the change I am making is not necessary, especially considering most people say third gear is too fast to use, but it'll give me satisfaction to know I can run smoothly in any gear.

[NJSoundMan]

Hey everybody.. I've throughly enjoyed reading all your posts while doing research into these great models. I'm VERY close to purchasing a Knight Hauler kit, and I've read many suggestions to get them through Stellamodels on eBay. I did a member search on eBay, and it turns out that Stellamodels is no longer a registered member. Their last item sale came at the end of May.

Does anybody know what happened? Or, can recommend a comperable seller? I've seen a few different sellers from Hong Kong, and they seem to have pretty good feedback ratings, but I'm just curious if anyone has had any experience with them.

Looking forward to getting the kit and starting to build..

-Chris

[wedicotrucker]

tower hobbies has a 25.00 doller off savings sale on all orders of 300.00 dollers or more. that would bring the cost of there knight hualer to 315.00 dollers.and I if your a tower hobbies club member shiping is free.

[NJSoundMan]

Thanks for the info. I think I'm actually going to start out a little smaller with a Stadium truck (the Chevy S-10, to be exact). I've built a few R/C aircraft, but in researching the Semi trucks, they seem like quite complicated builds. So, I will get my feet wet with R/C cars with a simpler truck for now.

[wedicotrucker]

Tamiya is well known for there instructions, and there instuctions for there haulers is also veary well detailed. If you do not want to install the electrical unit there veary simple builds, no matter what kind of truck you get. Wedico is much the same way. I've been invalved in r/c cars and trucks for over 20 years and was a little stumped with the complex electricl system of these trucks, but well worth the time and effert put in to get it all working. It also helps too, to find some one in your erea that also has one of these trucks to help you out. If not this message board is a great plce to come to.

[revnine]

Chase,

I just ordered the Futaba 9CAP for my rig and wondered if you could elaborate on how to get both sticks to auto-center. The Profi 707 looks sweet too, but I couldn't find an easily reached dealer.

BTW, nice trucks everyone. I'm just starting to build a Knight Hauler (with the MFU on the way), so if anyone has any tips or tricks let me know!

Tony

[maX energ]

Hey!!

It's been awhile due to password problems and school and such...but im back! :)

so whats new..hah

I have a question...

Whats probably the best battery and charger combo thats somewhat basic like the 959 charger?

how is the 959?

[baih]

dont buy the 959.!!!

[maX energ]

yeah, i heard it over heats really bad, but what other chargers can i get that aren't too exspensive, have those tamiya connectors and will charge nihm and ni-cad batts that are around 2400mah?

am i looking for the impossible?

[dabait]

What helpful reply, baih :rolleyes:

In general, I've heard good things about the 959, though I don't own one. The previous poster obviously has some issue with them, or maybe he's just being a goof.

Anyway, I've got a DuraTrax IntelliPeak AC/DC Digital Pulse Charger that I've been real happy with. It covers the range of cells, capacities, and cell types that I need, and so far it has been really reliable regarding peak detection.

I've read of one issue where the connector at the power-supply failed... this is a standard molex-type connector. The owner said that DuraTrax replaced it without issue... said if it happens again he might just replace the connector with a Deans since the unit will probably be out of warranty.

[revnine]

Well here's my take....

I have a 959, a CE GFX, and a Great Planes Triton.

Of all of them, as far as ease of use the Triton is the best. It will charge anything (including li-polys) and I've had no problems with it screwing up my batteries.

The 959 is o.k. but I wouln't get it again. It has gotten a lot of bad press for it's claims to be able to charge Li-poly (It won't reliably do this). Otherwise it's an o.k. charger, but not as user friendly as the Triton. One advantage it does have over the Triton is that it is AC/DC....I have to run the Triton off a spare car battery (you can hook it up to a power supply...I just haven't)

The GFX is very flexible and has a motor break-in mode which I use a lot. It seems to get every last ounce of performance out of my batteries, so for racing it would be my first chioce. It is expensive though compared to the others. And it won't do li-poly cells. IMHO, li-poly is gonna be the future of batteries....they only keep getting better and better.

So, overall for price and ease of use and flexibility, I would go for the Triton. You hear about it more in the Airplane forums, but it works well for us truckers too! :D

Hope this helps,

Tony

[dabait]

Tony,

Excellent info! I'm a bit wary of Li-Poly batteries right now. I love the charge density, but they seem to be very sensitive to over-charging.... do nasty things when driven with too much current, or when drawing too much current.

As it is, I always charge my NiCad and NiMH cells on a hard heat/flame-proof surface away from combustables.

Hopefully, safeties will be put in place or improvements will be made to make more forgiving. I had bad experiences with the early NiMH cells, but now they're quite reliable.

dave

[revnine]

Dave,

Yeah, I know what you mean about potential probs with fire, explosion, etc. I haven't had any problems personally, but if you look on some of the plane forums it will scare the you know what out of you! There are lists of cars, truck and houses that have burnt supposedly from shorted/abused li-poly cells

All that being said, I really like them :D They hold a charge forever (almost) and just go and go and go.

As far as charging...I charge mine in a partially sand filled metal ammo can with the lid part-way down. I never let them charge when I'm not nearby (within eyesight). I also store them in that same container (closed). I haven't tested it's fire-worthiness, but it seemed better than letting them lay around the garage.

I believe there is at least one manufacturer planning on releasing car specific cells (ie. capable of high current draws) this year (thunder power). Should be interesting to see what safeguards they develop too.

Tony

[maX energ]

I've had 2 near fire exspirences with fire charging...

once, i was charging a Trinity sport pack like a 1400 nicd i believe...and my charger broke and was quick charging for like 6 hours.. the casing the cells were in melted and like broke off and it left a little bit of acid on my floor (concrete) (thank god..)


and the 2nd i was driving my stadium truck and my solders melted and dripped on to the battery cells.. the shrink wrap melted and the cells like popped...


but...as you say, there getting better and better, (these were really old packs) :)

[Seany]

HI im new to the fourm i want to get into the tamiya trucks are they worth it and am i gonna grow out of them at im 13 i love they way they look
Thanks
Sean

[bananarama]

Okey, here comes a stupid question, I have read all the previous posts and couldnt find it. If you mount the motorised support legs on the trailer, how do you control them? Is it a cable from the truck to the trailer? In that case must you disengage it manually? Or is it possible to mount a second reciever on the trailer that only controls the support legs through the 4:th channel?

Thanks
Banan

[RCLN]

The motorized support legs come with a modified 5th wheel, that has a "pin" which slides out the rear by means of the same servo that is used for releasing the trailer. This pin, or slide, actuates a set of microswitches on the trailer, and depending on how far the pin is extended, the legs are raised or lowered. The tractor and trailer have to be lined up properly for this to work.
The motorized support legs come with a battery box to fit to the trailer, to power the legs.

Ellen

[bananarama]

Thanks for the info!


Banan

[HairySteveUK]

Hi there
Thought I'd introduce myself. I'm Steve and I live in sunny Kent in the UK. I've curently got a knight hauler, box trailer, and Ive started work on a scratch built low loader trailer as well but at the moment my main project is a 5-axled wrecker using two old king haulers for the axles etc, and a merc cab plus tons of other stuff. Has anyone here ever built a wrecker? Ive got a good idea how to build most of it, Ive been talking to R D Trucking off the Tamiya club site who's been very helpful with ideas for drive, ale mountings, etc. My idea for the wrecking gear is to use converted SD200 servos with threaded rod attached to them and use captive nuts to work various bits of the wrecking gear eg the wheel lifting frame and so on. I got a very strange reaction from the Ripmax service department when I phoned them up and asked if they had any broken servos they could send me!! :D I've also got a cunning plan how to work the whole lot off a Field Force 6 radio, there are 8 functions on the wrecking side of things plus the usual 4 channels for driving and horn sound effect on the multi function unit. Should be interesting to see if I can wire it all up correctly :D Hopefully some pics fairly soon...
-Steve

[dabait]

It was 20-some years ago, I was visiting a model railroading hobby shop. The owner was a bit of a tinkerer, and was never happy with the solenoid actuated turnouts/switches/points.

He devised a simple mechanism similar to what you describe. He used a very small DC motor driving a length of threaded rod (like 4-40 size or so). There was an arm attached to a nut that rode on the rod, and at either end of the threaded rod there was a micro-switch. When the nut travelled to either end, it'd open the contacts and shut itself off.

Perhaps you could do something similar to limit travel...an auto-stop of sorts. I like the idea of using a servo because it provides compact size, low gearing, appreciable torque, and variable speed.

[bananarama]

Here comes another motorized support legs question. Does anyone have a film clip showing the function of the legs? From a low angel so I can see the action so to say :)

I have pretty much made up my mind about this thing, will most likely end up with a Tamiya truck, but since I prefer Swedish trucks in general and Scania in particular, (nearly 15 years driving Scania makes that to you :) ) I will take a look at Robbe before I make any decision.

Here in Sweden we will have a Transport week 26-29 August http://www.elmia.se/lastbil/ and hopefully I will get a chance to see the trucks IRL. Click the flag in top for English version.

SO if all goes as planed I will buy what I need there, truck, trailer, legs and some spare axles so I can rebuild the trailer to my liking :) Hopefully I can find some super singel tires for the trailer there to.

Banan

[Chase023]

I just bought the motorized legs and I have the servo attached to the Semi, but I don't have a trailer yet.
My question is..how can you switch to the motorized legs mode to move the servo?? Mine just sounds the horn when I use the 4th channel..
Is that normal? When can you move the servo??


By the way
RevNine.. did you solve your issue with centering the Futaba 9CAP sticks??
Did you modify it to get them to center instead of incremental movement?

[revnine]

Chase,

Not yet.....I got way behind on my truck building (work, work, work...) and haven't called Futaba yet. I believe there is a ?plastic? shift gate which will fit over the left stick and help with shifting etc. I saw it for sale at eTamiya.com, but didn't know if it was worth it or not. I will likely do what you did and just make both sticks auto-center.

Did you call Futaba for the part numbers?

thanks,

Tony

[Chase023]

Here are the part # you need to get it to spring to center.

HSP50105 T 1M10A03401 ST-16 SPRING HOOK
HSP50120 T 1M10A04301 ST-36 SWING ARM
HSP60620 T J50060 SCREW + PMS 2X14
HSP67360 T S90087 TRIGGER SPRING 3PG

If you want, I can do it for you but I would think you would rather do it yourself.

Let me know how it goes

[mavrick0]

Chase to make the servo for the motorized legs work you need to set the shift stick lever trim setting all the way to the left, the of course move the stick to the far left. The 4 ways should blink once letting you know it has changed and the servo will slightly twitch then you will have control of the 5th wheel servo. Then of course do it again to set it back to the horn.

[RCLN]

Here comes another motorized support legs question. Does anyone have a film clip showing the function of the legs? From a low angel so I can see the action so to say :)

Here's a long clip, which includes the motorized support legs action. Have fun!
http://garyjavo.com/videos/KHMOV02.wmv

Ellen

[bananarama]

Thank you very much Ellen! I must say the truck look sweet in the dark with lights and stuff.


// Banan, writing down light kit on the shopping list :)

[RCLN]

Thank you very much Ellen! I must say the truck look sweet in the dark with lights and stuff.


// Banan, writing down light kit on the shopping list :)
Yes, it really does look good. I'm not too fond of the Knight Hauler myself, though, so I'll probably buy a King Hauler. BTW, that truck has the Multi Function Unit, or MFU, which I've already ordered, too -- the regular light kit doesn't let you switch the lights remotely, and doesn't have sound or the vibration unit, either. You might want to check out the rest of that site, it has an interesting section on building the Knight Hauler and trailer, including a few pictures of the motorized support legs.

Ellen

[Wr95jp]

Quick Question,

Any one think of a way to get smoke out of the exhaust pipes? I know new pipes would have to be made but how to get any smoke and get it to smoke for more than a few sec.

[Chase023]

Thanks Mav for the tip!

Cool Little Vid..RCLN
Great Looking Knight Hauler..I like the Mattress logos..hehe

I think I need a Trailer for my Chrome Aeromax.

[RCLN]

Cool Little Vid..RCLN
Of course, it's not my vid, or my truck, for that matter. But I just ordered a King Hauler, but probably won't start working on it until I finish my MB, which I've bought used, and taken apart...

Ellen

[RCLN]

Quick Question,

Any one think of a way to get smoke out of the exhaust pipes? I know new pipes would have to be made but how to get any smoke and get it to smoke for more than a few sec.
You might want to check out smoke generators for model railroads. I know some people use them, though I don't think the smoke looks very realistic...

Ellen

[bananarama]

Yes, it really does look good. I'm not too fond of the Knight Hauler myself, though, so I'll probably buy a King Hauler....



We are on the same page here, if I go US-style I will go for the king hauler, probably with a box trailer behind to start with, or I will go EURO-style and buy a Scania 164 and build my own trailer that resembles the one I work with.

All these hard decisions and choices... :) I'm glad I still have nearly one month left to come to some conclusions.

// Banan

[Wr95jp]

RCLN,

I've looked at the smoke gen, but white smoke dont look right. your right it is cheezy
I was thinking on how to a more blackish color and make it puff when u shift gears and when you take off. I'm still looking but it's seeming to be real hard to do.

[RCLN]

if I go US-style I will go for the king hauler, probably with a box trailer behind to start with, or I will go EURO-style and buy a Scania 164
Hmm, the only Tamiya-scale Scania I know of is from these guys:
http://www.ebh-modellbau.de/SCANIA_prospekt.htm
and their prices start at 425 Euro, just for the cab!

Ellen

[revnine]

Chase,

Thanks for the part numbers! I'll let you know how it turns out...

Tony

[bananarama]

Hmm, the only Tamiya-scale Scania I know of is from these guys:
http://www.ebh-modellbau.de/SCANIA_prospekt.htm
and their prices start at 425 Euro, just for the cab!

Ellen

Those sure hit the spot! I just throw a mail to them to see what there kit contains. If its just the cab? and spoilers then its a bit expensive. I'm to tired just now to figure that out myself, early morning here, just about to head of to work.

With the risk of sounding like a broken record, but thanks again :)

[gixxer]

I'm getting the Tamiya 1/14 RC Truck Mercedes Benz 1838LS truck and would like to know how many ball bearing would i need and what size. Any advice?


http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rc/electric/114scaletractortrucks/56305.html

Thanks in advance.

[RCLN]

http://bearings.jandgstore.com/yuken016.html
This link shows the sizes and numbers of the bearings needed. I'm sure they can be found cheaper than this, t