tamiya tractor trailer kits

[copier dude]

I'm not keen on painting....

My plan of attack is to spray very light coats of black laquer untill there is enough of a film to wet sand, then machine polish using my Dremel Moto-Tool. I don't really want to use enamel because I think the film of paint will be too thick and will obscure details like the door hinges etc. I'm sure your paint job will turn out fine, just take your time and don't rush. Several thin coats will yield better results than one thick wet coat. Practice your technique on a piece of sheet plastic.
I know what you mean about the clear polycarbonate bodys, you can go wrong!
Later...

[jrventurekid]

The metallic special knight should be availible in mid January. BTW, my knight was painted with three coats of enamel and it still turned out great. Thanks, Josh

[copier dude]

Hi Josh. The email notice about your new post said "(sorry, the pic. is a little fuzzy)", but when viewing the post in the forum, that sentence is missing. I don't know why, but I am very interested to see the pic! Could you try and post the link again?

[dabait]

I've never had good luck with enamels... even when air-brushed, they are so tricky for me. Funny thing is, a local automotive shop has several car models on display with spectacular paint jobs. The owner of the shop built the cars and said they were painted with the Testors rattle-cans.

Personally, I always end up with sags, orange-peel or eggshell problems no matter how careful I am. However, I'm now a huge fan of the Tamiya sprays... they go on beautifully... just real easy to work with. I believe they're either lacquers or acrylic lacquers.

[jrventurekid]

If automotive paint is enamel, then I've had no problems... Thanks, Josh
(Just a sec and I will try the pic. again, copier dude!)

[jrventurekid]

Lets see...

There ya go!
I gotta get a pic. of my two trailers now!

[copier dude]

Lets see...

There ya go!
I gotta get a pic. of my two trailers now!

W O W ! ! ! :eek:

That is awesome! I was quite sure I was going with black, but seeing it red has me re-thinking my decision! What technique did you use to achieve the finish? Just thin coats?
BTW, that picture makes it impossible to tell if it is a model or real! Nice photography skills! :)

[jrventurekid]

another....

[jrventurekid]

Thin coats and some extra time on your hands. If you want it to look even more like mine, wet-sand the body and re-clear. Thanks, Josh


Another....

[jrventurekid]

Some lights....

[hazz]

I'm now a huge fan of the Tamiya sprays... they go on beautifully... just real easy to work with. I believe they're either lacquers or acrylic lacquers.

Dabait, If I'm going to paint my truck, Tamiya spray is my choice because it was the type I used for my previous 3 lexan bodies. Can I EASILY get the shine err... like Josh's truck (really nice!) with thin coats of Tamiya spray + clear coat?

Thanks to y'all for the info.
-Hazz.

[OhioFarmboy]

I have been using Dupli-Color automotive paints that you can get at most of the auto parts chain stores.Some are a base coat/clear coat method and some are already shiney.They have a different type of nozzle,kind of makes the spray come out in a flat fanned pattern.It makes painting for me pretty easy.I have used enamels also and if the can has the good spray nozzle,i get good results.But if i use say a can of Rust-oleam,the paint tends to go on sloppy.I read somewhere that they reccomend warming the can of paint up in warm or hot water,this makes more pressure in the can and a finer spray pattern.One thing to remember if using water to warm the can up,make sure to shake and even blow the can off to get all of the excess water out of the nooks and crannys on the can.I'm going to try to attach a picture of my Knight Hauler,it is Autumwood Metalic with medium Garnet red metalic fenders and frame.Not the best pictures as i haven't mounted the cab yet.Getting extra lights to put on and some other goodies.Happy Holidays,Randy.

PS,this Knight-Hauler is one of the Full Option kits and it came unpianted also which was ok with me.

[hazz]

I'm going to try to attach a picture of my Knight Hauler,it is Autumwood Metalic with medium Garnet red metalic fenders and frame. Happy Holidays,Randy.

Randy, the color combination looks great to me! Two of my favorite colors... :)

[jrventurekid]

This is an tamiya areomax body my dad painted last night...Its Fed-Ex purple.
Two coats of poly-eurothane and two coats of automotive clear.
(By the way...your truck looks AWSOME Randy!!!!)
Thanks, Josh

[jrventurekid]

Inside...(I don't know why it looks blue..probly the stupid camera.)
If you look close enough, you can see the wood grain reflection...

[copier dude]

I'm going to try to attach a picture of my Knight Hauler, it is Autumwood Metalic with medium Garnet red metalic fenders and frame. Not the best pictures as i haven't mounted the cab yet. Happy Holidays, Randy.

Hey Randy, that is a very striking paint job! Any chance of another pic or two?

[davidfromsa]

we would make one hell of convoy, if we all got together one weekend. the trucks are looking awesome. keep on truckin!!!!!!

[bmanderville]

Josh, thanks for the clarification. If it's slight, then it's just me who still can't notice it... :)

BTW, anybody knows when the chrome Knight Hauler will be available? And is it true that for the full option kit, the body is prepainted dark metallic blue? Thanks.
-Hazz.


According to Tower Hobbies, it should be available mid January.

Bernie

[jrventurekid]

EARLY MERRY CHRISTMAS FROM McDONOUGH, GEORGIA!!!!

Thanks, Josh

[jrventurekid]

Well...scince things on the forum are slow...I'm gonna post some pics! You can guess what I got for Christmas...BOX TRAILER!!

Here's the truck and box trailer!

[jrventurekid]

The pole trailer...

[jrventurekid]

The box trailer and the pole trailer.
This is all for now...I might have more later...
Thanks, Josh

[bmanderville]

Does your box trailer rattle a lot? Mine does.

Bernie

[dabait]

Mine did. I just ran strips of electrical tape along the corners where the panels meet, and it took care of the problem. The MFCU's vibration unit would make it rattle in a major way otherwise.

Jrventure... looks like you have some wide-open spaces for running rc-cars!

[mustangjoe]

Just a question for you guys running the MFU. If you use a 4 channel radio and you use the trims for functions of the MFU, how would you trim your steering servo? Just wondering.

[jrventurekid]

Mine doesn't rattle hardly at all. And I didn't do anything to the box trailer...
BTW Dabait, I have 325' X 10' of asphalt to play with and five acres of grass!
Also, None of the MFU's functions rely on the steering channel(other than the blinkers, and those requir no trimming!). I'm using digital trims and mine works great! And another thing: whats the deal with the "blinker switch" on the mfu? When I flip it, it just makes it so that there is some weird sound when turning one way and no sound when turning the other. Any ideas?

Thanks, Josh

[jrventurekid]

Ok..here's my new lowboy...

[jrventurekid]

All three trailers...

[bmanderville]

Ok..here's my new lowboy...

Very nice, but it looks a little small. Is it a Weidco?

[davidfromsa]

Ok..here's my new lowboy...

how much clearance do you have between the bumper and gooseneck? I'm thinking about getting one of these babies, but I think i might have to purchase a dolly for it. check out heavyhaultrailers.com if you get a chance. :) :) :)

[davidfromsa]

Happy New Year from me and my truck. I am in need of a 100 ton lowboy trailer in 1/14 scale! Keep on truckin'

[bmanderville]

Happy New Year from me and my truck. I am in need of a 100 ton lowboy trailer in 1/14 scale! Keep on truckin'

Nice excavator, what type is it? Is it functional with Radio Control?

Bernie

[jrventurekid]

Yes its a wedico. And when turning I have about a quarter between the tailight and the gooseneck...But don't worry...it also has an adjustable king-pin! As for ground clearance...DON'T HIT ANY ROCKS!!!! It isn't too pretty...

Thanks, Josh

[davidfromsa]

thanks for the info. jrventure kid to:bernie, I got the excavator from tampatoyco.com, it's rc, but it could use some extra power. it's kinda of weak , but it looks cool. I think so. The brand is golden bright 1/12 scale.

[pro-4x4]

Hi- Do any of you guys use oil in your gearbox just enough to touch all bottom gears so they can flick oil around? This would make shifting gears smoother wouldn't it?.

[dabait]

That's not really necessary for the type of plastic the gears are, and I bet you'd have a heckuva time sealing the gearbox adequately.

The jerkiness of the shifting is a function of how the gearbox works. When the shift-forks slide the engagement gears together, those pins slide into the slots and then -BAM-!

Are you using a pistol-grip or two-stick? If using the two-stick, are you using the shift-plate? I think the shift-plate makes sure your throttle is OFF when switching from gear to gear... that should minimize the harsh shifting.

[bpbyrne]

I use the three position switch on my two stick to shift. Makes it handy for me, because then I can instantly downshift and 'engine break' :)

[pro-4x4]

That's not really necessary for the type of plastic the gears are, and I bet you'd have a heckuva time sealing the gearbox adequately.

The jerkiness of the shifting is a function of how the gearbox works. When the shift-forks slide the engagement gears together, those pins slide into the slots and then -BAM-!

Are you using a pistol-grip or two-stick? If using the two-stick, are you using the shift-plate? I think the shift-plate makes sure your throttle is OFF when switching from gear to gear... that should minimize the harsh shifting.

Thanks debait- No I have not got a shift plate, Am getting a new radio! So will get all that at the same time. It does shift ok but thought with the oil might make smoother!?!?! Thanks for your help. Cheers Glen

[jrventurekid]

I shift on the go...Its cool and I haven't had any transmission trouble. BTW, I'm with "bpyrne", I use the 3-position switch on my 8103DT radio. Its so easy! And I still have access to rev/running mode and horn/support legs mode.

Thanks, Josh

[toyman64]

I use a 2 stick also with no shift gate and I don't have any problems what so ever :) , I like being able to be at a certain throttle point and keep it there until I want to shift up or down at that throttle position. works good for me :D

[hazz]

I think the shift gate can save the gears to a certain extent. I also don't use one but am always careful when shifting. It hurts to hear the grind... especially when I forgot to center the trim...urgh!

Looks like ebay already has some chrome Knight, yes!...a bit pricey compared to std Knight but since I'm not gonna paint, it's the only way to go...
-Hazz

[bmanderville]

I think the shift gate can save the gears to a certain extent. I also don't use one but am always careful when shifting. It hurts to hear the grind... especially when I forgot to center the trim...urgh!

Looks like ebay already has some chrome Knight, yes!...a bit pricey compared to std Knight but since I'm not gonna paint, it's the only way to go...
-Hazz


Based on the shipping charges you would be better off buying the chrome knight from Tower Hobbies for $399.

Bernie

[hazz]

Bernie
I'm in Malaysia (one of the countries hit by the non-primary tsunami after Christmas), so shipping cost from Hong Kong is still acceptable, & arrive in 3-4 days.

I used to buy from Tower last time but they don't ship to this country anymore for some reason. So far ebay has served this and my other hobbies' needs well.
-Hazz

[copier dude]

Hi all. I noticed that the frame rails on my Knight Hauler are aluminum extrusions and thought that I would polish them. So I though about the best way to remove the black "paint". First I tried laqueer thinner, which had no effect. So, next I tried the most deadly paint stripper I could find and guess what? No effect! I now realize that the aluminum extrustions have been powder coated. This brings two things to mind:
1. I am going to have the frame on my next full-size car project powder coated!
2. How to remove it?
The coating seems to be quite thin so I suppose I could sand it off, but I would like to avoid it as it would be difficult to sand in the inside of the rails. Does anybody have any suggestions on how to best remove the powder coating? I would really like polished aluminum frame rails. :cool:

[jrventurekid]

Try acetone and aircraft remover (also known as aircraft stripper). Then a rough scotch-brite pad...Hopefully that will work...

Thanks, Josh

[dabait]

I shift on the go...Its cool and I haven't had any transmission trouble. BTW, I'm with "bpyrne", I use the 3-position switch on my 8103DT radio. Its so easy! And I still have access to rev/running mode and horn/support legs mode.

Thanks, Josh

I'm using a Futaba 3-ch pistol-grip radio... the 3rd channel is a up/down toggle where you can program upto 4 positions. I've got mine set up for N, 1, 2, 3. Someone else here came up with the idea of a 'neutral' setting... it's just a position between gears where neither are engaged.

I've not had any issues either... the engagment is typically very quick without any grinding or slipping.

[dabait]

I now realize that the aluminum extrustions have been powder coated. This brings two things to mind:
1. I am going to have the frame on my next full-size car project powder coated!
2. How to remove it?
The coating seems to be quite thin so I suppose I could sand it off, but I would like to avoid it as it would be difficult to sand in the inside of the rails. Does anybody have any suggestions on how to best remove the powder coating? I would really like polished aluminum frame rails. :cool:

Are you sure it's not anodized? If so, you're only choice for removal may be abrasives. There are chemicals capable of removing the anodization, but they're not something you want to mess with. Also, many chemicals that remove it will also attack the aluminum itself.

Have you considered painting? There are countless metal-like finishes available.

[jrventurekid]

I think its teflon coated...it doesn't look like anodizing. But it could be...

Thanks, Josh

[jrventurekid]

Can you say "Wide Load"?

[jrventurekid]

The skids are close but still about 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the ground...

[bpbyrne]

Ok, I am in need of some advice.

I took my truck outside for the first time today.

However, after running around, I notice some of my performance is going. Long story short, somehow I 'broke' the main drive axle. (I took the truck all apart to verify all the set screws)

Basically, if I drive, one of the black ends of the driveshaft will slip inside the silver part. (I think this happened because I stressed it driving up my ~30-40 degree driveway, with a box trailer)

Basically, do I buy a new driveshaft from Tamiya, or should I get one from Ric or Willy?

For reference, its a stock Knight Hauler.

[copier dude]

Have you considered painting? There are countless metal-like finishes available.

Hmmmm....I hadn't thought of that :o My first stop on Saturday will be the model shop and see what the guy has. Thanks for the tip! I like the thought of a chrome-like paint instead of sanding it off.

BTW, wicked 'copter carrier :)

[copier dude]

Basically, if I drive, one of the black ends of the driveshaft will slip inside the silver part. (I think this happened because I stressed it driving up my ~30-40 degree driveway, with a box trailer)
I have a suggestion for repairing it...
Drill a small hole through the aluminum drive shaft near the black part, drilling through the black part too. Then, press a roll-pin through the hole untill it emerges on the other side. Now, the drive shaft and black part are mechanically locked together. The black part is only a press fit into the drive shaft, not a good choice for an item that is subject to high torque loads, such as going up a steep grade with a trailer. Just buy the roll-pin before you drill the hole so you know what size of hole to drill. You might consider doing the other end as well before it fails. Cheers, copier dude.

[jrventurekid]

Ok...I'm gonna have to watch my driveshaft. I've hauler some heavy load before, but not up such a steep grade. Good luck gettin' it fixed "bpyrne"!

Thanks, Josh

[davidfromsa]

when I shift, there is a slight click. it's the shifting rod getting caught in the plate , I think. do any of you guys have this problem?

[Anthony]

I have a slight click from each gear, im not concerned about it.

[toyman64]

when I shift, there is a slight click. it's the shifting rod getting caught in the plate , I think. do any of you guys have this problem?
I've been drive'in my King Hauler for 10 years now and occasionaly mine does that, it's not a big deal, I've never had to take it apart, but I bet if I did take it apart the tranny would look the same as it did when I built it. :D It's just a little friction in the shift forks from the gears being locked in, when the friction is released the shift fork pops the gears out thats the clicking sound we hear, kinda like having a 4x4 and unlocking the transfer case, it does the same thing.... :D

[bpbyrne]

I have a suggestion for repairing it...
Drill a small hole through the aluminum drive shaft near the black part, drilling through the black part too. Then, press a roll-pin through the hole untill it emerges on the other side. Now, the drive shaft and black part are mechanically locked together. The black part is only a press fit into the drive shaft, not a good choice for an item that is subject to high torque loads, such as going up a steep grade with a trailer. Just buy the roll-pin before you drill the hole so you know what size of hole to drill. You might consider doing the other end as well before it fails. Cheers, copier dude.

Thanks for the suggestion. I thought it was a good idea. I finally got around to doing it today. Went to Home Depot, got four 1/16" pins for $.75, (LHS is closed for moving). Came home, drilled, put a pin in each side, and then dremeled the excess. All in all, process took about an hour.

Anyway, I am a happy camper, truck is performing good as before. Thanks again!

[jrventurekid]

Every now and then my tranny would get jammed going into 3rd gear. A little "Never Seize" works wonders!

Thanks, Josh

[copier dude]

Thanks for the suggestion. I thought it was a good idea. I finally got around to doing it today. Went to Home Depot, got four 1/16" pins for $.75, (LHS is closed for moving). Came home, drilled, put a pin in each side, and then dremeled the excess. All in all, process took about an hour.

Anyway, I am a happy camper, truck is performing good as before. Thanks again!

Your welcome! :)

[bpbyrne]

I am curious, has anyone added a mechanical brake to their truck, or know anyone who has?

[bmanderville]

I think that this would be difficult to do, unless you could use some kind of clamping mechanism on either the front or rear wheels. Maybe some kind of tire clamp would work, like a servo actuated pad pressing on the tires (better make sure your tires are well cemented to the wheels).

If you are use the MFCU just backing down off of the throttle towards reverse without stopping at neutral is supposed to "apply the brakes". Also I have found that getting rid of the click stops on the throttle and converting to a self centering stick stops my truck immediatley.

I believe that someone has posted before about converting a Futaba to this mode and the parts that would be required. I found this out by having my wiring all mixed up with the throttle where the horn is supposed to be, and the horn where throttle is supposed to be. You don't need a shift gate then, but setting up the MFCU gets a little confusing as channels are not where the intructions say, but it is very workable. Right stick is sterring and throttle, left stick is shifting and horn. If you just let go of the right stick, wheels center and the motor stops immediatley, very handy when heading for a car that it won't fit under. :)

Bernie

[dabait]

How about just binding the drive-shaft? If you wanted to get fancy, you could even use the same sort of mechanism used on gas-powered RC cars... a disc on the propellor shaft with two servo-actuated plates that would pinch the disc (very much like automotive disc-brakes).

[bmanderville]

How about just binding the drive-shaft? If you wanted to get fancy, you could even use the same sort of mechanism used on gas-powered RC cars... a disc on the propellor shaft with two servo-actuated plates that would pinch the disc (very much like automotive disc-brakes).


That would work, finding a space to put it in would be difficult though. I'm thinking that a pad of some sort on the rear wheels would work better as there is more space at the rear of the truck for the actuating servo(s). And if it could lock up the rear wheels, just like real smoke is coming off the tires :rolleyes:

Bernie

[bpbyrne]

I actually have a custom radio setup anyway, and no MFU. So violating their stick placement is already been done. I have already moved the spring from the right side up/down stick to the ratched throttle stick (and ratchet to the right side).

And my ESC (Super Rooster) does have brakes. In fact, they work quite well on flat surfaces. However, on that killer slope I have already talked about, applying the brakes merely slows the truck, it is not powerfull enough to stop it. (IE, the only method of stopping the truck down my driveway is to turn the cab perpendicular to the slope.)

I really should look at a disk solution, I just have never had a gas car to get experience with one. Dabait: How much shorter is the globeliner axle then the knight hauler (about)?

------------

I am finishing up my electrical plans for stage 1 (no RC control) of my lighting project. It looks like I am going to be installing 250 LEDs on my truck and trailer. Just need to play a little more with my breadboard to figure out the right resistor values for various currents. (I am estimating current draw to be about 1/2amp on the cab and 1amp on the trailer (@7.2V).)

[Anthony]

I saw the installation page for the mfu for my areomax, and the control panel goes in the tank. How would I adjust it with out removing it.

[dabait]

Heh... it's been a while since I've looked closely at my Globeliner :D Anyway, the drive-shaft (I assume you mean) is about 2" long on the Globeliner... real stubby.

On the Knight-Hauler, it's closer to 4.5". Those are rough measurements... key info is there's about 2" difference between the two.

[bmanderville]

I saw the installation page for the mfu for my areomax, and the control panel goes in the tank. How would I adjust it with out removing it.


The part that goes in the tank has no adjustments on it, just a few on/off switches. All adjustments are done on the MFU itself, which would be mounted inside the cab of the truck.

Bernie

[bmanderville]

I actually have a custom radio setup anyway, and no MFU. So violating their stick placement is already been done. I have already moved the spring from the right side up/down stick to the ratched throttle stick (and ratchet to the right side).

And my ESC (Super Rooster) does have brakes. In fact, they work quite well on flat surfaces. However, on that killer slope I have already talked about, applying the brakes merely slows the truck, it is not powerfull enough to stop it. (IE, the only method of stopping the truck down my driveway is to turn the cab perpendicular to the slope.)

I really should look at a disk solution, I just have never had a gas car to get experience with one. Dabait: How much shorter is the globeliner axle then the knight hauler (about)?

------------

I am finishing up my electrical plans for stage 1 (no RC control) of my lighting project. It looks like I am going to be installing 250 LEDs on my truck and trailer. Just need to play a little more with my breadboard to figure out the right resistor values for various currents. (I am estimating current draw to be about 1/2amp on the cab and 1amp on the trailer (@7.2V).)

250 LEDs! Wow, would love to see a pic of that. I use a 3330mAH battery in my truck and it will run for over an hour on that pack.

As for brakes, in your situation I would definetley go for some kind of pressure pad on the tires, all of them, rear more than front. I'm not so sure that a disc on the drive shaft disc would help, with the diffs in the rear end. I will have to see what happens if I clamp the drive shaft, and see if the truck will still move with the shaft locked. When I get chance I will let you know.

Bernie

[TRXRacing]

A brake on the driveshaft would work just fine. Just like on any nitro r/c car. Six wheel disc brakes would be cool though.

[bmanderville]

A brake on the driveshaft would work just fine. Just like on any nitro r/c car. Six wheel disc brakes would be cool though.

Yes it would help, but a Nitro car uses a clutch mechanism, throttle off no clutch engaged. In the Tamiya the tranny may still be in gear, and with the diffs in the rear end they may still allow the turning of some wheels. Especially when going downhill with a load. A really big load, when loaded with batteries and all of those LEDs.

I still need to find the time to try the clamping of the drive shaft. I will do it this weekend and let all know.

Now, disc brakes, that would be sooooo cool. Doesn't seem to be much room for that, unless you willing to go with inboard and cut up the rear wheel housings and add a disc in there. Could be done though, anyone ever thought of creating a new rear diff housing? I don't have the time or equipment to do it. Would require a lathe, engineering, and casting of new housings.

But if someone could do it, then maybe NITRO for the 1/14th scale trucks! That would be really scarry, imagine, 3 feet of metal, hauling down the street at 40MPH or more. Can you say jackknife, carnage, oh the horror. We would need some 27MHz radioshack cars to crash into, no great loss there. Maybe even the tanker trailer filled with flamable liquid, what a show! :eek:

Bernie

[BillH]

Well I have the Globe liner built, the Flat bed built and all the electronics installed. This thing is amazing. My dog hates it. I cannt wait untill I can run it out side. Keep on truckin!

[davidfromsa]

my wife bought me a wedico low loader trailer w/dolly in black. i can't wait to start building this thing. it should come in on tuesday. early birthday present !!!!!! I love my wife

[TRXRacing]

Nitro engines using a clutch or electric motors with no clutch doesn't change how it would stop with a brake on the driveshaft. Since the diffs aren't locked it would only stop the 4 rear tires with the most traction. When you push the trigger as far as it'll go on a 2wd Nitro car with an open diff it sometimes only locks one back tire but it still slows it down.

[bmanderville]

Nitro engines using a clutch or electric motors with no clutch doesn't change how it would stop with a brake on the driveshaft. Since the diffs aren't locked it would only stop the 4 rear tires with the most traction. When you push the trigger as far as it'll go on a 2wd Nitro car with an open diff it sometimes only locks one back tire but it still slows it down.


But his problem is the steep hill, with a large load. Maybe he could install a run-away truck ramp, loaded up with sand. At least he wouldn't have to call a tow truck to get it out. Maybe some kind of drag brake might work. Would be easy to install and fabricate, not realistic, but it would act like an anchor.

Bernie

[bpbyrne]

But his problem is the steep hill, with a large load. Maybe he could install a run-away truck ramp, loaded up with sand. At least he wouldn't have to call a tow truck to get it out. Maybe some kind of drag brake might work. Would be easy to install and fabricate, not realistic, but it would act like an anchor.

Bernie
Nah, there shall be no messing with the landscaping :)

It is a asphalt hill, (I don't have special tires, and the grass areas are horribly pitted, so no off road driving outside for me), and generally on asphalt the truck has a pretty good ability to keep all four wheel sets planted.

I was thinking about extending the output from the gearbox about 2 inches, and putting a disk on that, and then using a globeliner axle. However, I really need to do a lot more studying of nitro cars to figure how they apply pressure to the brake.

As far as not driving the motor when braking, It seems feasible to set up a mix on the radio to prevent that.

Now, if I wanted brakes on the wheels, it seems feasible to me to design some sort of drum brake system, using the inside of the wheel (not the tire) as the drum. However, I would need a sherline to build it, and I currently don't have the money for one :(
Would there be interest if drum brakes for tamiya trucks where available for purchase?

Also, all you people with an MFU, are you interested in IR links for the trailer that are MFU compatable?

[dabait]

Also, all you people with an MFU, are you interested in IR links for the trailer that are MFU compatable?

Yes!

[bmanderville]

Here is a link to a page where you can see it. I haven't decided what to do with the trailer yet.

http://home.comcast.net/~bmanderville/default.htm

Bernie

[bmanderville]

Nah, there shall be no messing with the landscaping :)

It is a asphalt hill, (I don't have special tires, and the grass areas are horribly pitted, so no off road driving outside for me), and generally on asphalt the truck has a pretty good ability to keep all four wheel sets planted.

I was thinking about extending the output from the gearbox about 2 inches, and putting a disk on that, and then using a globeliner axle. However, I really need to do a lot more studying of nitro cars to figure how they apply pressure to the brake.

As far as not driving the motor when braking, It seems feasible to set up a mix on the radio to prevent that.

Now, if I wanted brakes on the wheels, it seems feasible to me to design some sort of drum brake system, using the inside of the wheel (not the tire) as the drum. However, I would need a sherline to build it, and I currently don't have the money for one :(
Would there be interest if drum brakes for tamiya trucks where available for purchase?

Also, all you people with an MFU, are you interested in IR links for the trailer that are MFU compatable?

I checked my King Hauler this morning with the drive shaft locked. A disc setup on the drive shaft will definitely help, but traction is the biggest issue. Only two of the drive wheels locked up but anything is better than nothing.

Setting up a drum brake system using the original wheels wouldn't be recommended, and if you get the aluminum wheels, I think they only replace the outside wheel with aluminum, the inner will still be plastic.

As for the IR link, definitely interested.

Bernie

[TRXRacing]

Nah, there shall be no messing with the landscaping :)

It is a asphalt hill, (I don't have special tires, and the grass areas are horribly pitted, so no off road driving outside for me), and generally on asphalt the truck has a pretty good ability to keep all four wheel sets planted.

I was thinking about extending the output from the gearbox about 2 inches, and putting a disk on that, and then using a globeliner axle. However, I really need to do a lot more studying of nitro cars to figure how they apply pressure to the brake.

As far as not driving the motor when braking, It seems feasible to set up a mix on the radio to prevent that.

Now, if I wanted brakes on the wheels, it seems feasible to me to design some sort of drum brake system, using the inside of the wheel (not the tire) as the drum. However, I would need a sherline to build it, and I currently don't have the money for one :(
Would there be interest if drum brakes for tamiya trucks where available for purchase?

Also, all you people with an MFU, are you interested in IR links for the trailer that are MFU compatable?

I'd use an extra channel for the brake...then just make sure to release the throttle before using the brake. If you've ever seen a 2 1/2 ton Rockwell axle, there is an output shaft that can be used to power another axle like on a 6X6...anyway, they put a single disc brake on the output shaft. It works fine on the real thing so it should work in 1:14 scale.


Get some heavy grease for the rear diffs to make them act like a limited slip...it'll help with traction both under acceleration and braking. For even better braking, lock the rear diff and put heavy grease in the middle axle. Get the parts to make the rear axle have an output and then put a disc setup on that.

[bmanderville]

I'd use an extra channel for the brake...then just make sure to release the throttle before using the brake. If you've ever seen a 2 1/2 ton Rockwell axle, there is an output shaft that can be used to power another axle like on a 6X6...anyway, they put a single disc brake on the output shaft. It works fine on the real thing so it should work in 1:14 scale.


Get some heavy grease for the rear diffs to make them act like a limited slip...it'll help with traction both under acceleration and braking. For even better braking, lock the rear diff and put heavy grease in the middle axle. Get the parts to make the rear axle have an output and then put a disc setup on that.

Great idea! A simple order with Tamiya for replaceing the rear diff back housing with the same as the back housing opposite the drive shaft.

Bernie

[dabait]

Setting up a drum brake system using the original wheels wouldn't be recommended, and if you get the aluminum wheels, I think they only replace the outside wheel with aluminum, the inner will still be plastic.


FYI: the GPM aluminum wheelsets replace both the inner and outer wheels. They are real close in quality to the Tamiya product... detail is not quite as sharp, but from more than a couple feet away, you'd have a hard time distinguising the two.

[dabait]

Here is a link to a page where you can see it. I haven't decided what to do with the trailer yet.

http://home.comcast.net/~bmanderville/default.htm

Bernie

I painted my van trailer black to match my Knight Hauler. the long horizontal rails and the rear doors were left bare. I'd been planning on painting the top rails but haven't got around to it. I did all the painting with it disassebled.

http://www.dabait.com/rc-cars/miscpics/kh-black4.jpg

I'd like to paint the top rails... just haven't got around to it yet. The bottoms will stay unpainted... they sort of tie into the chrome strips along the bottom edge of the Knight Hauler.

http://www.dabait.com/rc-cars/miscpics/kh-black2.jpg

[jrventurekid]

Hey bpyrne, Sure I'm interested in the IR link.

Thanks, Josh

[jrventurekid]

Alright, I created a new tractor truck group on yahoo. I know it says for georgians only, but i don't care :) . Feel free too join!

Thanks, Josh

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/georgiarctractortrucks/

[bmanderville]

I haven't seen a reference to this in this forum, but a great review of the King Hauler can be found here:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=410

It includes video! This is what got me started, once I watched the video I was hooked. Had to have one, bought my parts from all over the world. Wife wasn't pleased but hey it's my money. I also got her involved in color choices and she was hooked :) No problems from here on out.

Can't wait for my metalic Knight Hauler. I am doing this one with all of the options, Tanker Trailer (should look really nice with all of that chrome), MFU, Motorized support legs.

But I do have a question? I am going to get a new radio for this, and was wondering what radio to use. I don't want anything in the 27MHz range, I prefer the 70MHz surface bands.

Bernie

[bmanderville]

I have a question, are the Hop-Up shocks worth the money? :confused:

Bernie

[bmanderville]

I painted my van trailer black to match my Knight Hauler. the long horizontal rails and the rear doors were left bare. I'd been planning on painting the top rails but haven't got around to it. I did all the painting with it disassebled.


I'd like to paint the top rails... just haven't got around to it yet. The bottoms will stay unpainted... they sort of tie into the chrome strips along the bottom edge of the Knight Hauler.



Very nice, I like the fact that you didn't use the decals on your cab. I am seriously thinking about removeing them from mine.

Bernie

[bmanderville]

Is there a webiste where I can buy the wheels?

Bernie

[dabait]

I have a question, are the Hop-Up shocks worth the money? :confused:

Bernie

From what I've read, they are not worth the money. I recall someone saying that they don't really provide any real damping control (which is the main point). The stock units don't either... I just can't justify spending money on a hop-up that doesn't actually improve performance or appearance.

[dabait]

Very nice, I like the fact that you didn't use the decals on your cab. I am seriously thinking about removeing them from mine.

Bernie

Thanks! It's hard to see, but I did use some of the decals... the truck numbers, carrier info, etc... just not the big stripes or "Knight Hauler" logos.

The paint job on the can is good if you're standing about 4 feet away... get any closer and it's not so hot. Luckily, black hides a lot of the issues. I'd like to strip it and repaint using the Tamiya products. I might order new cab plastics and decals... I just have to figure out what the cost would be and then weigh the work it takes to strip the cab vs the cost of getting one ready to paint.

The trailer was painted with automotive lacquers (spray-cans) -- no issues there at all. I didn't paint the nylon frame-corners... not sure what kind of paint would stick to those. Maybe they could be dyed like RC car parts and wheels.

[bmanderville]

I did use some of the decals too, like the plates etc. But the logos, might have to go. I painted mine with Tamiya Metallic blue. Very difficult, but I have the same problem as you, get close and you can see everything. If you go through the link that I have posted earlier, I know that using a good paint booth would give me a lot better finish.

But while I was painting, my neighbor stopped by the back fence and asked what I was doing. I wouldn't tell him, I just said "you'll hear it long before you'll see it".

And it was true, I stopped the truck in the road in front of his house and nailed the horn. I could see them looking out the windows but they didn't see the truck. So more horn work, finally they came out of the house. He was sick at the time so he wouldn't come out and really check it out, but his son did. He wanted to drive it (yeh right I'm going to let an 8 year old drive my $1.2K truck.)

Bernie

[TRXRacing]

That Knight Hauler looks like the truck that K.I.T.T rode in. If it were mine I'd paint it completely black...chrome is nice but it's just not for me. I'm trying to decide if I want to part with $1500 for a full option King Hauler..I could use a new computer. Or an intake, throttle body, and a pcm flash for the Durango...hmmm..

[bmanderville]

I could use a serious hop up for my car, but do you or I really need to spend any more money for gas than you already do?

As for a new computer, why not build your own? You probably already have the outside parts, only need a new MB, RAM, CPU, and case.

I'm an old school type of guy, the more chrome the better, but leave the decorations off.

Bernie

[TRXRacing]

I've always built my own computers. I'm interested in getting an AMD 64 system with a gig of ram, audigy 2 platinum, nvidia 6800gt, and an ati capture card. I need a new case since I'm going to use my current system as a server.

[bmanderville]

Has anyone ever built one of these? Wonder what a King Hauler with a lowboy trailing that monster would look like. :)

Bernie

[dabait]

Has anyone ever built one of these? Wonder what a King Hauler with a lowboy trailing that monster would look like. :)
Bernie

I thought they were 1/20th scale (could be wrong)... if the scales are off by that much, it might look kind of funny.

[toyman64]

I thought they were 1/20th scale (could be wrong)... if the scales are off by that much, it might look kind of funny.
yeah he's talking about one of these http://tamiyaclub.com/getuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img542_08122002104747_1.jpg it wont fit on a low boy :D or any truck for that mater, it's basicly a Juggernaut truck, way too big. I know i have a Jugg.

[bmanderville]

yeah he's talking about one of these http://tamiyaclub.com/getuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img542_08122002104747_1.jpg it wont fit on a low boy :D or any truck for that mater, it's basicly a Juggernaut truck, way too big. I know i have a Jugg.

But is it really cool! Sounds and all without having to buy a lot of extra stuff?

Bernie

[davidfromsa]

Hey guys

Just wanted to show you my new trailer. I finished it Wednesday night, but I still need to order fenders for the back. The trailer, dolly and the truck measure just over 66 inches. I also converted the rear of the King Hauler to U.S. style rear end which I purchased from Precision Models. I was hauling my excavator and bulldozer, but I think I want to buy a Tamiya 1/16 Pershing tank R/C.

The Wedico instructions for this trailer were mind boggling for me since I am not an advanced modeler. I am really happy with it now that it is together. I doubt I will be building another Wedico model, unless I get the 4 axle wrecker to haul my King Hauler :D

[jrventurekid]

Cool! The trailer looks awsome! I still trying to find the dolly for my lowboy!

Thanks, Josh

[copier dude]

Wow! :eek: Looks very big! Did the trailer pin fit into the reciever ok? Are there lights? 66 inches is VERY long, extend a tape measure out on the floor and you'll see what I mean! Cheers, copier dude.

[davidfromsa]

I had to steal the king pin off my tamiya flatbed and install that on to the dolly to connect to the king hauler.The dolly has a basic wedico fifth wheel which connects to a thick king pin that is on the low-loader trailer. Yes, it is quite long. It's really cool to pull a tight turn between the couch and the coffee table. This trailer came with rear wheel steering that consisted of a cable and a pulley system. I didn't like it, I left the the pulleys in the trailer, but took out the cable. The steerer that connected with the king pin was also taken out. I locked the wheels in the back with a bolt or large screw and 4 nuts , 2 on the outside and 2 in the inside. That kept the wheels straight. My wife ordered the gooseneck dolly and low-loader trailer from gardentrucking.com aka precision model. Also, the dolly and trailer come in both yellow and black. I love this thing, hopefully tamiya will make one in the near future. Keep on truckin. There is room to install lights, but I don't think I will.

[toyman64]

Yeah David looks good, I also see ya have the hood orniment and the telescopic antenna. :D when you use that antenna do you have to send it with the reciever to the radio manufacturer for tunning? i was thinking of getting one. and how about getting the texas square with LEDs, that would look cool too.

[davidfromsa]

Yeah David looks good, I also see ya have the hood orniment and the telescopic antenna. :D when you use that antenna do you have to send it with the reciever to the radio manufacturer for tunning? i was thinking of getting one. and how about getting the texas square with LEDs, that would look cool too.


No, I did not send it for tuning, I did not know I had to. It works fine though.

[toyman64]

well that's good that it works, did you have to sodder the end of the antenna to the bottom of the telescopic one? have you done a range check too?

[bmanderville]

well that's good that it works, did you have to sodder the end of the antenna to the bottom of the telescopic one? have you done a range check too?


Just looping the antenna around the included washer thingy is enough. As a ground based RC unit, if you can't see it, you are not in control. Don't let it get out of site. 300 feet from your position is about the max I would go. That's plenty far enough to have fun with your truck without endangering anyone or anything, except the bottoms of some unsuspecting cars.

Bernie

[jrventurekid]

Anyone who wants to do a live chat via yahoo, get an account because toyman64 and I (nstampede002) are always on. Feel free to contact us. If we are not on, leave us an offline message. Trust me, we like to talk.

Thanks, Josh

[davidfromsa]

well that's good that it works, did you have to sodder the end of the antenna to the bottom of the telescopic one? have you done a range check too?




I just looped it around the washer. I only drive the truck inside. So I don't worry about range too much.

[bmanderville]

All,

I am building a Knight Hauler Metalic edition and am now ordering parts. What I would like some advice on is the radio to use. I would like anyone's opinion on the right radio. The new truck will have all of the options from Tamiya (motorzed support legs, MFCU, and tralier lights), except the Oil dampers and any gingerbread add-ons like the animal guard.

What I would like to use is a 4 channel pistol grip type radio, you know with a steering wheel and trigger throttle, but what radio will support the other channels?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Bernie

[copier dude]

All,

I am building a Knight Hauler Metalic edition and am now ordering parts. What I would like some advice on is the radio to use. I would like anyone's opinion on the right radio. The new truck will have all of the options from Tamiya (motorzed support legs, MFCU, and tralier lights), except the Oil dampers and any gingerbread add-ons like the animal guard.

What I would like to use is a 4 channel pistol grip type radio, you know with a steering wheel and trigger throttle, but what radio will support the other channels?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Bernie

Hi. The following is quoted from the MFU instruction manual:

"The following 4ch-RC unit is recommended for optimum operation: Futaba Attack 4WD"

"It is recommended to use transmitter mentioned above as using transmitter from different maker may not realize the optimum efficiency of this kit. Wheel trigger type transmitter or one without trims should not be used at all."

'nough said?

Cheers, copier dude.

[dabait]

Hi. The following is quoted from the MFU instruction manual:

"The following 4ch-RC unit is recommended for optimum operation: Futaba Attack 4WD"

"It is recommended to use transmitter mentioned above as using transmitter from different maker may not realize the optimum efficiency of this kit. Wheel trigger type transmitter or one without trims should not be used at all."

'nough said?

Cheers, copier dude.

Bah.... I'm using a wheel/trigger radio with my trucks, and it works fine. You don't have access to all the functions, but outside of that, it's ok. I have full throttle/brake control, steering, and shifting. I just can't toggle the things you'd normally use the trims for... and the horn or whatever.

But... ya, the two-stick radios really are better suited.

[jrventurekid]

I'm partial to JR radios. My advice will be to get a nice computer radio (such as the XP6102) so you can setup end point adjustment, eponential notation (this really smooths out the steering), and its six channels. It does have digital trims, and everyone says thats bad for the mfu, but if I set the epa to max, I don't even have to set the trims to access the stuff you would normally have to move the trims for. Left stick all the way up or down is headlights/hazards and left stick half way up and down is horns/support legs. The XP6102 is around $250 with four 537 (standard) servos, R700 seven channel fm receiver, 600 or 1100 receiver pack (not needed), switch harness (not needed), a 12 inch servo extension (possibly needed), it comes with nickel cadnium (Nicad) batteries in the transmitter, and a wall charger. Not to mention JR stuff is top notch. The reason I reccomend this radio is for programming functions. I run the XP8103DT. Its a little more than you need, but I would not give it up because of all the extra programming functions.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCategory/Product/Default.aspx?ProdID=JRP6644**

Thanks, Josh

[dabait]

That sounds real nice... I wonder if it's available in a package without servos.

[bmanderville]

I'm partial to JR radios. My advice will be to get a nice computer radio (such as the XP6102) so you can setup end point adjustment, eponential notation (this really smooths out the steering), and its six channels. It does have digital trims, and everyone says thats bad for the mfu, but if I set the epa to max, I don't even have to set the trims to access the stuff you would normally have to move the trims for. Left stick all the way up or down is headlights/hazards and left stick half way up and down is horns/support legs. The XP6102 is around $250 with four 537 (standard) servos, R700 seven channel fm receiver, 600 or 1100 receiver pack (not needed), switch harness (not needed), a 12 inch servo extension (possibly needed), it comes with nickel cadnium (Nicad) batteries in the transmitter, and a wall charger. Not to mention JR stuff is top notch. The reason I reccomend this radio is for programming functions. I run the XP8103DT. Its a little more than you need, but I would not give it up because of all the extra programming functions.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCategory/Product/Default.aspx?ProdID=JRP6644**

Thanks, Josh

Wow nice radio! I have a question though, is there a way to not lose the horn function and still have the motorized supports legs using an additional channel?

Thanks,

Bernie

[bmanderville]

I actually have a custom radio setup anyway, and no MFU. So violating their stick placement is already been done. I have already moved the spring from the right side up/down stick to the ratched throttle stick (and ratchet to the right side).

And my ESC (Super Rooster) does have brakes. In fact, they work quite well on flat surfaces. However, on that killer slope I have already talked about, applying the brakes merely slows the truck, it is not powerfull enough to stop it. (IE, the only method of stopping the truck down my driveway is to turn the cab perpendicular to the slope.)

I really should look at a disk solution, I just have never had a gas car to get experience with one. Dabait: How much shorter is the globeliner axle then the knight hauler (about)?

------------

I am finishing up my electrical plans for stage 1 (no RC control) of my lighting project. It looks like I am going to be installing 250 LEDs on my truck and trailer. Just need to play a little more with my breadboard to figure out the right resistor values for various currents. (I am estimating current draw to be about 1/2amp on the cab and 1amp on the trailer (@7.2V).)

Any pictures of the 250 LED truck yet?

Bernie

[bpbyrne]

Any pictures of the 250 LED truck yet?

Bernie
Not quite. Household duties got in the way of truck projects. (and they still will all this week)

I will post pictures when it gets done. Current timeline looks possibly around end of Febuary.

[jrventurekid]

As for working the support legs and still having a horn, then no. The mfu uses trim and stick combinations to access modes-horn/support legs and running/revving.

You might be able to get that radio without servos if you sweet talk the hobby store owner (we sometimes do this at my store). If you are going through a big company such as horizon or tower, you're probly out of luck.

Thanks, Josh

[jrventurekid]

On second thought, you could just put the support legs servo on another fully proportional channel, but you would lose the safety of the mfu. With the mfu, you have to access support legs mode to move the support legs servo. This keeps you from accidentally dropping the trailer. You cannot access this mode while you are driving. If you are in driving only mode (this is accessed by a swith on the mfu. this mode has no lights, sound, or shaking) the servo is always active, thus it is easier to drop the trailer.

Thanks, Josh

[bmanderville]

As for working the support legs and still having a horn, then no. The mfu uses trim and stick combinations to access modes-horn/support legs and running/revving.

You might be able to get that radio without servos if you sweet talk the hobby store owner (we sometimes do this at my store). If you are going through a big company such as horizon or tower, you're probly out of luck.

Thanks, Josh

So what your saying is I don't lose the horn function while in driving mode but only in whatever mode it's in for the support legs.

If that's the case then I see no reason to use a seperate channel for the legs.

Bernie

[jrventurekid]

Yep..you got it.

Thanks, Josh

[davidfromsa]

Hi everyone,

I redid my flatbed. I just wanted a different look, so I gave it a darker stain and painted the frame flat black. I am also working on a new truck. I am building a Mercedes 1838 LS. This is going to haul my flatbed. If anybody out there has any new designs or custom jobs, please post pictures. I'd love to see them. :D

keep on truck'n

[dabait]

Hi everyone,

I redid my flatbed. I just wanted a different look, so I gave it a darker stain and painted the frame flat black. I am also working on a new truck. I am building a Mercedes 1838 LS. This is going to haul my flatbed. If anybody out there has any new designs or custom jobs, please post pictures. I'd love to see them. :D

keep on truck'n

Looks very nice! I also like the coiled leads you've got between your cab and the trailer... nice touch!

[jrventurekid]

What kind of light kit is that, or is it just for looks?

Thanks, Josh

[davidfromsa]

No light kit, just a little decoration resembling air lines for brakes. Something like that. :cool:

[toyman64]

No light kit, just a little decoration resembling air lines for brakes. Something like that. :cool:
Looks good, now all you need is some steel coils on it chained down, then it would look like all the trucks that i see at work :D

[mackmixer]

Hi, are there any rc truck clubs around the Md,Va,Pa area? I live in Frederick Md and would like to join a club that builds tractor trailer type trucks myself I drive a 2002 R- model mixer. I know they dont make a mack cab yet how could you get one made a r-model cab?.....

[jrventurekid]

I know Brand model (Germany) makes a Mack cab, but it is an 18 wheeler cab. It is made of brass but is VERY expensive...

Thanks, Josh

[dabait]

That's gorgeous!

[jrventurekid]

Here's my new trailer! Hope you like it!

[jrventurekid]

Another. This means one more to go!

[mackmixer]

WOW, that is very cool we have a mack like this one at work it pull the cement tanker trailer. How do you make something like that do you need special tools and computers and why brass? I wonder how much? :rolleyes:

[jrventurekid]

I believe it is stamped from brass. Also I think its about $2000 bucks! And thats the cab only. Its made to fit on a Wedico chassis.

Thanks, Josh

[jrventurekid]

Some of Brand's other work...

[bmanderville]

Hi, are there any rc truck clubs around the Md,Va,Pa area? I live in Frederick Md and would like to join a club that builds tractor trailer type trucks myself I drive a 2002 R- model mixer. I know they dont make a mack cab yet how could you get one made a r-model cab?.....

Mackmixer,

I live in the area, do you have any of the Tamiya trucks? I think there are also others in this forum from around here.

Maybe we could have a Convoy. Wonder if there is a way to play "we got us a convoy" through the truck speaker?

Bernie

[bmanderville]

Some of Brand's other work...

Is there a website where others can look at this? I know it's expensive, maybe if enough of us get together we can lower the price :confused:

Bernie

[jrventurekid]

Its all in german, but i think you'll find your way around anyway!http://www.brand-modellbau.de/Deutsch/Inhalt/inhalt_frameset.htm

[mackmixer]

Mackmixer,

I live in the area, do you have any of the Tamiya trucks? I think there are also others in this forum from around here.

Maybe we could have a Convoy. Wonder if there is a way to play "we got us a convoy" through the truck speaker?

Bernie
Bernie,where do you live ? no not yet but I'm working on it I have twin 8 month olds so the spending is on hold for now but very soon I'm going to jump in with both feet. I would like to buy a king hauler and make some different trailers cement tanker,low boy,and dump trailer I have an empty garage waiting to start. :D

[bmanderville]

Its all in german, but i think you'll find your way around anyway!http://www.brand-modellbau.de/Deutsch/Inhalt/inhalt_frameset.htm

Gorgeous looking stuff, no wonder it costs so much. Master craftmanship there. The Mack cab without paint, a little brasso and shellac and what a look. The trailers are also awesome.

Unless everyone ordered the same thing doubt we could get the cost lower. Did I mention the workmanship on this. ;)

Bernie

[dimastep]

I am thinking of getting me a Knight Hauler and I am wondering what is the average running time on a freshly charged battery? Does having the trailer attached make much difference?

[bmanderville]

I am thinking of getting me a Knight Hauler and I am wondering what is the average running time on a freshly charged battery? Does having the trailer attached make much difference?

It would all depend on the battery you use. I use a 3300 MaH battery that will give me an hour at least of run time, with the trailer attached.

Also depends on how much juice you use during run times. Attaching a trailer adds weight, which makes the motor work harder, which we can conclude uses more power from the battery.

Bernie

[dimastep]

Wow, that's pretty good. Anything over 40min I consider good. In other words there trucs are not like the trucks you get at Radioshach that drain battery in 20min ?
Can anyone else confirm this, no offence to you Bernie :) I just wanna be sure before buying because I'll be pretty much running it rather than modelling :)

[jrventurekid]

I've run radioshack batteries...don't waste your time! I run the cheap dynamite 3000 battery ($39.99). With my tanker attached, I get about 1 hour (2nd-3rd gear).I also run a high discharge 3000 racing battery ($69.99)and get about the same run time. The weight of the trailer and what cargo you are hauling will affect run time.

Thanks, Josh

[dabait]

Wow, that's pretty good. Anything over 40min I consider good. In other words there trucs are not like the trucks you get at Radioshach that drain battery in 20min ?
Can anyone else confirm this, no offence to you Bernie :) I just wanna be sure before buying because I'll be pretty much running it rather than modelling :)

I've also seen 1 hour plus run-times... I typically use a 3300mah NiMH pack.

[bpbyrne]

I use only 3000mAh batteries (However mine are cheap: $35 for 2)

But I see about a week of runtime in first gear doing fifteen or so minutes a day.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHBP3&P=ML

[dimastep]

Sweet !

Another question for you guys: I am kinda hooked up on the suspension part of the trucks (ever since I was a kid I would modify my toys to have spring suspension)
So what can you say about suspension on these Tamiya tractors. Is it cosmetic and very stiff or is it realistic and soft enough to work even on small bumps at medium-low speeds ?
Do trailers have suspension too?
Also what about front suspension and rear suspension on trucks like Volvo or Mersedes ?

[jrventurekid]

All the trucks have metal leef spring suspension. It is also dampended by a sping damper that is more for looks if you ask me. The trailers also have the same suspension. It is a little bouncy, but its not too bad.


Thanks, Josh

This is the front. It's a little blurry, but I think you can see everything.

[jrventurekid]

This is the rear. The trailer suspension is identical to the rear suspension on the truck.

Thanks, Josh

[satchit_b]

Hi,
Aren't these trucks supposed to run the 1700mAh batteries only? Won't using 3300 mAh rated batteries have a detrimental effect on the motor and the lights?
Regards,
Satchit

[dabait]

The voltage isn't really any different. The mAH rating only specifies the charge capacity, or how long a particular voltage/current level can be drawn.

The only possible detrimental effect would be if you run it long enough to allow the motor to overheat, but I don't see that being likely given how the trucks are typically driven.

[jrventurekid]

I agree with dabait. It won't hurt anything....

Thanks, Josh

[bmanderville]

Sweet !

Another question for you guys: I am kinda hooked up on the suspension part of the trucks (ever since I was a kid I would modify my toys to have spring suspension)
So what can you say about suspension on these Tamiya tractors. Is it cosmetic and very stiff or is it realistic and soft enough to work even on small bumps at medium-low speeds ?
Do trailers have suspension too?
Also what about front suspension and rear suspension on trucks like Volvo or Mersedes ?

I have posted earlier in the forum a link to an RCUniverse review of the King Hauler. I shows everything you would want to know about the Tamiya trucks. Go back a few pages and you will find the link. Contains building and painting hints, detailed pics of the components and a video of how it really runs.

Bernie

[bmanderville]

Not many posts here lately. Has anyone built the Metallic Knight Hauler yet? Still waiting for mine from Tower Hobbies. :(

Regards,

Bernie

[jrventurekid]

Believe me, I want one. I will soon be posting a video of my truck. I'll post a link when its done. Right now I'm working on airplanes.

Thanks, Josh

[copier dude]

Hi all. I come to the point of installing the rear lights on my Knight Hauler, and I was wondering how some of you dealt with the wiring. How did you tidey all the wiring? I have bought a bunch of shrink wrap tubing and figure that would work well as it is black and will blend in well. Any thoughts? :)
Cheers, copier dude.

[pininfarina]

Hi guys,

I've just got myself a Knight Hauler... with the MFU, anyone knows if the MFU built in ESC can handle a 23turns motor?

thanks for looking in... :)

[copier dude]

Hi guys,

I've just got myself a Knight Hauler... with the MFU, anyone knows if the MFU built in ESC can handle a 23turns motor?

thanks for looking in... :)

Hmmm, good question. The instructions say "Do not use motor other than one supplied in kit". Perhaps some other builders have some experience with non-stock motors?

Cheers, copier dude.

[bmanderville]

Hmmm, good question. The instructions say "Do not use motor other than one supplied in kit". Perhaps some other builders have some experience with non-stock motors?

Cheers, copier dude.

My big question is why do you want to put a high performance motor in an 18 wheeler truck. If you want to go really fast, mount a turbine (12 lb thrust) on the back end and make damn sure your wheel alignment is setup right, and remove the tranmission. Have fire extinguisher at the standby. Miniture Jet Truck, I may even try it some day :) .

Bernie

[jrventurekid]

I wouldn't use any motor under 30 turns. I don't think that esc in the MFU can handle much.

Thanks, Josh

[pininfarina]

thanks guys, have an old tamiya sporttuned motor sorta thinking to put in the hauler, but after spending time searching and reading this thread... best if to leave it stock or get a LRP truck puller.... this thing is 80 turns.. instead of lowering the turns.. I should bring it up.. for more pull and longer run time... : :)

http://www.lrp-electronic.de/e/products/motors/truckp-spec2003.jpg

here's the spec for the truck puller
Extremely precise throttle control for driving maneuvers where every millimeter counts. That's no problem for our Truck Puller. Equipped with a special winding and featuring the highest possible torque along with perfectly aligned timing for uniform right-left runs, precise to-scale driving is no longer an issue. In other words, you're going to be right up there with the big guys.
Order No. Voltage
in V RPM Recommended Gear Ratio
Onroad/Offroad
57360 for 7,2 6500 original
57460 for 12 6100 original

[davidfromsa]

Hey everyone,

This is my new Tank. It is a Tamiya Pershing, 1/16. The trailer idea I stole from Willy from customrcmodels.com. It is a Bruder construction trailer, which was red, they also make it in yellow. I put a Tamiya King pin on it and with some modifications, it matched up nicely with my tractor. The trailer is made out of plastic, but I put a wood deck on it and painted it olive drab. The axles are simple steel poles running from wheel to wheel, nothing fancy. I purchased the Tamiya 1/14 Mercedes truck 1838LS. I plan to paint it Olive drab, and put some military star decals on the doors. I am not going to use the spoiler or the side skirts. I added some small craft sticks on the ramps to add traction for the tank tracks.

[bmanderville]

Hi all. I come to the point of installing the rear lights on my Knight Hauler, and I was wondering how some of you dealt with the wiring. How did you tidey all the wiring? I have bought a bunch of shrink wrap tubing and figure that would work well as it is black and will blend in well. Any thoughts? :)
Cheers, copier dude.

If you have the MFU there are some self adhesive clips in there that work great for routing the wiring along the inside of the frame rails. You may want to paint them black to match the rails. Covering the wires with heat shrink should make the job a whole lot easier.

Bernie

[bmanderville]

Hey everyone,

This is my new Tank. It is a Tamiya Pershing, 1/16. The trailer idea I stole from Willy from customrcmodels.com. It is a Bruder construction trailer, which was red, they also make it in yellow. I put a Tamiya King pin on it and with some modifications, it matched up nicely with my tractor. The trailer is made out of plastic, but I put a wood deck on it and painted it olive drab. The axles are simple steel poles running from wheel to wheel, nothing fancy. I purchased the Tamiya 1/14 Mercedes truck 1838LS. I plan to paint it Olive drab, and put some military star decals on the doors. I am not going to use the spoiler or the side skirts. I added some small craft sticks on the ramps to add traction for the tank tracks.

I've always wanted to build a Tamiya 1/16th tank, but man they cost more than the truck. Seems the more we get into this larger scale thing the more money we spend. But it's fun, now if we could only get together somewhere and play with our "scale models" (otherwise known by my wife as toys). ;)

Bernie

[cdm]

I've always wanted to build a Tamiya 1/16th tank, but man they cost more than the truck. Seems the more we get into this larger scale thing the more money we spend. But it's fun, now if we could only get together somewhere and play with our "scale models" (otherwise known by my wife as toys). ;)

Bernie


actually they are not bigger than the trucks. About the same size as a 1/10 car when built. The difference is the solid body (i hate lexan :mad: ) and weight.

Though here is a hint.. the leo won't fit on anything but a custom trailer so if you want to haul your tank on your truck, you are limited to WW2 stuff (which is greatly inferior). Else you would need a big lowboy from somewhere...

[bmanderville]

actually they are not bigger than the trucks. About the same size as a 1/10 car when built. The difference is the solid body (i hate lexan :mad: ) and weight.

Though here is a hint.. the leo won't fit on anything but a custom trailer so if you want to haul your tank on your truck, you are limited to WW2 stuff (which is greatly inferior). Else you would need a big lowboy from somewhere...

Figures, I want an M1Abrams with a real working gun! Maybe 22 shorts, shotgun rounds, or even BB's under air pressure, get rid of those other nasty guys permanently, what fun. :D But in order to be fair the other tank would have to be able to fight back. ROBOT WARS, but with commercially available tanks.

Bernie

[cdm]

Figures, I want an M1Abrams with a real working gun! Maybe 22 shorts, shotgun rounds, or even BB's under air pressure, get rid of those other nasty guys permanently, what fun. :D But in order to be fair the other tank would have to be able to fight back. ROBOT WARS, but with commercially available tanks.

Bernie


that reminded me.. i've long thought about building a custom battle bot with a tank body but after pricing the custom milling of the tracks alone i rest the project forever.

[wedicotrucker]

hey all been a long time sincemy last post. In augest of this year gardentrucking.com is going to put on a r/c trucking show in Indiana they will have a full city set up its just for the 1/16 and 1/14 scale tractor trailer trucks, no race trucks will be alowed.

[bmanderville]

I have a question, where do I find lowboy trailers for the 1/14th Tamiya trucks? I have been to numerous websites and yet can't find anything. Does someone custom build them, or they are available as kits?

Thanks,

Bernie

[bmanderville]

Anyone here have any idea as to when the metallic Knight Hauler will show up in the US to sotcking dealers? I am almost ready to buy from HK. I have the new Stella polished wheels (they are beautiful :) ), for the truck, the tanker trailer, can't wait to polish it up for the truck, the MFU, the motorized trailer legs, and am about to order the radio and battery. You guy's seem to know more about what is going on than I do.

Thanks for your response,

Bernie

[jrventurekid]

At my store, we can get them now...Tower Hobbies is just plain slow. They're in stock at the distributor and ready to ship....I don't know what the problem is elsewhere.....

Thanks, Josh

[pininfarina]

almost complete my hauler, now for the tough part... what colour schemes....

sorry for the blur images.. my old dsc-p1 can't focus properly

http://server3.uploadit.org/files/pininfarina-DSC00188.JPG
http://server2.uploadit.org/files/pininfarina-DSC00254.JPG
http://server3.uploadit.org/files/pininfarina-DSC00202.JPG
http://server2.uploadit.org/files/pininfarina-DSC00306.JPG
I've uploaded some pics at click me (http://www.******.net/memeber/pininfarina)

[jrventurekid]

Sweet! Everthing looks good....And man, your wiring in nice. My wiring job looks terrible. Also it looks like you got a Futaba 9 CAP radio, very nice.

Thanks, Josh

[pininfarina]

Sweet! Everthing looks good....And man, your wiring in nice. My wiring job looks terrible. Also it looks like you got a Futaba 9 CAP radio, very nice.

Thanks, Josh


thanks, had a good time shrink wrapping the wires.... can't say for spraying... need to get the spray booth..... the smell is killing me.....

Yes, I'm using the 9 CHP radio... nice.. yours?

[pininfarina]

some picture updates...

http://server2.uploadit.org/files/pininfarina-DSC00362.JPG
http://server2.uploadit.org/files/pininfarina-DSC00366.JPG
http://server2.uploadit.org/files/pininfarina-DSC00361.JPG http://server3.uploadit.org/files/pininfarina-DSC00340.JPG

[bmanderville]

Extremely nice work :D . Hopefully when my hauler finally shows up I can do it as well as you are. What did you do to hide/hold the wires along the frame rails?

Bernie

[jrventurekid]

You are a perfectionist aren't you? Everything looks good. BTW, I'm using a JR XP8103DT Radio (8 channel, 10 model memory, 3 model type, Digital Trims, and all that good stuff.) Very nice work!

Thanks, Josh

[pininfarina]

Extremely nice work :D . Hopefully when my hauler finally shows up I can do it as well as you are. What did you do to hide/hold the wires along the frame rails?

Bernie

thanks Bernie :) I'm using those black spiral wrapping band... along the frames... cable ties...

http://www.kss.com.tw/e4/e4-4/m0401-2.jpg http://store1.yimg.com/I/topmicrousa_1835_40528460

and heat shrink tubes for the LEDs..
http://store1.yimg.com/I/topmicrousa_1835_33276575

you can view my building pics from here (http://www.******.net/memeber/pininfarina)

[pininfarina]

You are a perfectionist aren't you? Everything looks good. BTW, I'm using a JR XP8103DT Radio (8 channel, 10 model memory, 3 model type, Digital Trims, and all that good stuff.) Very nice work!

Thanks, Josh

heh, try my best, luv building... :) and thanks Josh.

cheers,
Thomas

[jrventurekid]

Hey, I just saw the pics of the paint that is going on that piece of art. Thats a nice red color. Mine is red too!

Thanks, Josh

[OhioFarmboy]

Howdy all,been a while since i have checked in,lots of real nice looking new trucks.I'm slowly getting things going here,lots of trial and error planning and building.Heres a few pics of a Tamiya Flatbed i modified heavily into a double drop lowboy.It measures 36 1/2 long without a rear bumper on yet.Tires and wheels and axles are Wedico.I need to get another axle to make it a tri-axle,in the pics i just stuck the wheels under it for the picture.I have had the axles and tires mounted and seems to work ok.With the tires mounted and hooked to my truck,i have a 1/2 inch clearance under the trailer.I started out with the plan to use the Tamiya axles and tires,but i thought it was too tall using them,so i went with the shorter Wedico assemblys.I still need to run the light wiring,make a rear bumper,then paint it red i think?.Then put on the wood floor.I plan to build a Wedico scale lowboy next,thiinking on building a single drop deck trailer with rear ramps on this new one.Also been working on modifying a Tamiya Tank trailer,i made my own frame that lowers the height of the trailer about a 1/2 inch,wanted to lower it more,but can't go any lower and be level hooked up.I'll post pics of it later.Also added a 4:1 gearbox in my Knighthauler,i really like the lower gears for manurvering around.I'll post pics of that also.Need to get these Tamiya's built and start building my new Wedico Century,it looks to be a nice truck once built.Have seen several pics of this truck on a German message board and those guys really go for detail.Lots of neat add on extra parts being made over there.Well keep up the nice work guys,really enjoy seeing all the pics,later Randy.

[pro-4x4]

Hi Guys What pitch is the Haulers motor pinion? and where or what brand could match the spur for a bigger one? say 16 tooth up to 25 maybe. Can anyone help as I want to gear my truck up.Also how wide is the Knight haulers cab? Thanks for your help. :)

[OhioFarmboy]

Side view of lowboy.

[OhioFarmboy]

Rear of trailer with a spread axle look till i put the 3rd axle under it.

[OhioFarmboy]

Pic of the truck on the trailer.I took the truck partially apart to add the gearbox.

[OhioFarmboy]

Simple installation of a Wedico 4:1 gearbox.I used Juggernaut driveshafts shortened to make the conections.T or E Maxx shafts could be used also.I thought the smaller scale of the Jugg shafts looked more life like,but the Maxx shafts would be easier and cheaper.

[pininfarina]

Hey, I just saw the pics of the paint that is going on that piece of art. Thats a nice red color. Mine is red too!

Thanks, Josh

Hey Josh,

that's great shot of your hauler... yes, wass deciding to use the default TS-64 dark mica blue.. then realised that don't bring out the nice design of the knight hauler... so went with a more striking colour :)

found a new free web hosting to upload my photo, you can upload there too.... at photobucket.com

[pininfarina]

Simple installation of a Wedico 4:1 gearbox.I used Juggernaut driveshafts shortened to make the conections.T or E Maxx shafts could be used also.I thought the smaller scale of the Jugg shafts looked more life like,but the Maxx shafts would be easier and cheaper.

looks complicated :confused: but must be fun to build..

[pininfarina]

applied the decals... waiting for my clear coat to arrive... apparently clear coat here are hot items... ran out of stock... last week... only left with one can.... wouldn't be good to just use 1 can of clear coat...

Josh, what did you use for your clear coat? gloss? brand?...

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/pininfarina1/My%20Hauler/DSC00475.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/pininfarina1/My%20Hauler/DSC00473.jpg

[bmanderville]

Simple installation of a Wedico 4:1 gearbox.I used Juggernaut driveshafts shortened to make the conections.T or E Maxx shafts could be used also.I thought the smaller scale of the Jugg shafts looked more life like,but the Maxx shafts would be easier and cheaper.

Nice frame paint job. Did you paint it all or only the tops? I can't tell by the pics. Also beautifull color, what is it?

Also does anyone know where I could get the frame pieces chromed, yes I'm going to build a full option "Hanger Queen" truck. All chromed, gaudy yes, and I'll bet everyone of you will want one. Once I finally get my Knight Hauler Metallic edition, if it ever shows up (Tower Hobbies are you hearing me). I have has this on back order since last November.

Also does anyone know where I can find a copy of the Wedico catalog online. I don't read German, so I am at a disadvantge there.

Bernie

[pininfarina]

Nice frame paint job. Did you paint it all or only the tops? I can't tell by the pics. Also beautifull color, what is it?

Also does anyone know where I could get the frame pieces chromed, yes I'm going to build a full option "Hanger Queen" truck. All chromed, gaudy yes, and I'll bet everyone of you will want one. Once I finally get my Knight Hauler Metallic edition, if it ever shows up (Tower Hobbies are you hearing me). I have has this on back order since last November.

Also does anyone know where I can find a copy of the Wedico catalog online. I don't read German, so I am at a disadvantge there.

Bernie

Hi Bernie,

There's a US distributor for Wedico trucks...Precision Model (http://www.gardentrucking.com/) ... wait that's bad waiting for back orders... maybe you would want to try getting the metallic version from Hongkong at Rcmart.com..

Cheers,
Thomas

[pininfarina]

really brighten the day, puts a smile on my face :)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/pininfarina1/My%20Hauler/DSC00478.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/pininfarina1/My%20Hauler/DSC00481.jpg

[jrventurekid]

Hey Pininfarina, I used PPG clear-cote. I don't know if it is availible in your area or if its compatible with the paint already on your truck. Any high-grade cear should give you the finish you are looking for.

BTW Pro4X4, The Knight's cab is 6 1/2 inches wide at the rear farings. I believe the pitch of the pinion/spur gears is 32 pitch.

Thanks, Josh

[OhioFarmboy]

Hi Bernie,Thanks for the compliments.The frame and fenders are painted Ford medium Garnet Red metalic and clearcoated.I used Dupli-Color brand automotive paint.The brown part of the cab is GM Light Autumnwood metalic and clearcoat.The frame parts were all painted individally,then assembled and given another coat of the red.It is all painted every part even the axles,but not the springs.
No idea on where to get your frame chromed at,but would try looking at places that chrome auto parts or that do anodizing or powder coating.I saw a picture of a Wedico truck frame that had been chromed and looked nice,it was a German website i think?.
pininfarina,the gearbox was not complicated at all to put in,just 2 bolts or screws holds it to the frame.The hardest part was measuring the driveshafts to fit in between the gearbox and the tranny and axles.The shafts do slide in and out about a 1/4 of a inch,so that gives you some room to be off on measuring.Your truck will look nice also with the red paint,i like the red color,it's hard to beat.
I got some new pics of the truck now that is done,have fun and keep up the nice work,Randy.
Heres a picture of the gearbox from the bottom of the truck.

[OhioFarmboy]

Better pics of my truck completed,except for wanting to add some more lights and a rear bumper.

[OhioFarmboy]

Truck outside with lights on.

[pininfarina]

Truck outside with lights on.

nice, I see you've got the side lights as well :)

[OhioFarmboy]

nice, I see you've got the side lights as well :)
Yes i wired the side lights when i wired the the rest of the truck lights.Couldn't beleive they didn't include the lights to go there in the MFU kit.I forgot to comment on yours,i meant to,but got busy posting pictures.Do your side lights work as turn signals also?.Mine are just marker lights,but am planning on making them into turn signal lights.

Bernie,i found a chrome plating website,don't know anything about them,but they chrome Tamiya parts.Also found the German website that has Wedico Chrome frames.Both have pictures of there goods,Good Luck,Randy.

Scale Hobbies Chroming website,
<http://www.scalehobbies.com/Chrome_Plating.htm>

German TTM Modles -Wedico Freightliner Century Chrome website,
<http://www.ttm-funktionsmodellbau.de/RC-Trucks/Freightliner_Century/freightliner_century.html>

[pro-4x4]

Hey Pininfarina, I used PPG clear-cote. I don't know if it is availible in your area or if its compatible with the paint already on your truck. Any high-grade cear should give you the finish you are looking for.

BTW Pro4X4, The Knight's cab is 6 1/2 inches wide at the rear farings. I believe the pitch of the pinion/spur gears is 32 pitch.

Thanks, Josh

Thanks Josh Yes I want to gear up my truck......well its not really a truck but it has the hauler gearbox and at the moment my gearing is 1st=81-1 2rd=44-1 and 3rd=26-1. As for the width I am thinking of using Knight hauler roof lights on a F-350 roof-do you think that could work? I have now some roof lights off the Aero-not if they look right?? maybe to big if you know what I mean. His a pic of my first truck-now making a double cab with a 3spd hauler box. My Ford is still 4wd even with the alloy front wheels :cool:
You guys should check out this site-Scale 4x4 (http://s8.invisionfree.com/Scale_4x4_RC/index.php?act=idx) Their is a section for Haulers-you guys could own it :D Awesome trucks guys! :)

Thanks again Josh.

[OhioFarmboy]

Hey pro-4x4,that sure is a nice looking Ford you have there.I saw pics of your truck somewhere on here a while back,might of been the link you posted?.Anyways nice job on your truck,the color really makes it stand out.Also like the painted front end instead of the chrome grill and bumper.I think the Juggernaut body is 1 of Tamiya's best.I have a some Juggs myself i was messing with,but got burnt out and started the big rigs.1 of my Juggs will be a 4 door crew cab if i ever get around to finnishing the body work.Got the cab stretched and partially filled in,but it still needs some extra finishing,then a neat paint job.I also stretched the Jugg frame to match the crew cab body.It's all painted and ready,just need to finish the body work.I could post some pics if no one objects?.My jugg is more of a monster truck and not sure it would fit in here like your truck does.Anyways nice job on your Ford,Randy.
ps,thanks for the link to the Scale 4x4 website.

[pininfarina]

Yes i wired the side lights when i wired the the rest of the truck lights.Couldn't beleive they didn't include the lights to go there in the MFU kit.I forgot to comment on yours,i meant to,but got busy posting pictures.Do your side lights work as turn signals also?.Mine are just marker lights,but am planning on making them into turn signal lights.


Hi,
it's marker light, hooked to J14 the spare socket for headlights. Did try to hook up to the wrinker, apparently the voltage couldn't support 2 leds.

[pininfarina]

just got done with 1st clear coat, going to do 1 coat a day :)
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/pininfarina1/My%20Hauler/DSC00504.jpg

[bmanderville]

I finally got my Knight Hauler Metallic today :) , will start work this weekend and post pics later.

Bernie

[pininfarina]

I finally got my Knight Hauler Metallic today :) , will start work this weekend and post pics later.

Bernie

Great! have fun building your hauler...

cheers :)

[bmanderville]

Great! have fun building your hauler...

cheers :)

Still need a battery and radio, but what to buy :confused: , a high end radio that will only allow one truck on the road at a time, or a new radio, and not the Futaba 4 channel Attack whatever. I used the Futaba Skysport radio on my King Hauler, with a 72MHz surface frequency, I want to stay away from the 27MHz band. Maybe another one of those on a different channel. I am open to suggestions on the radio and servos. What about a PCM radio? Who likes what best.

Regards,

Bernie

[pro-4x4]

Hey pro-4x4,that sure is a nice looking Ford you have there.I saw pics of your truck somewhere on here a while back,might of been the link you posted?.Anyways nice job on your truck,the color really makes it stand out.Also like the painted front end instead of the chrome grill and bumper.I think the Juggernaut body is 1 of Tamiya's best.I have a some Juggs myself i was messing with,but got burnt out and started the big rigs.1 of my Juggs will be a 4 door crew cab if i ever get around to finnishing the body work.Got the cab stretched and partially filled in,but it still needs some extra finishing,then a neat paint job.I also stretched the Jugg frame to match the crew cab body.It's all painted and ready,just need to finish the body work.I could post some pics if no one objects?.My jugg is more of a monster truck and not sure it would fit in here like your truck does.Anyways nice job on your Ford,Randy.
ps,thanks for the link to the Scale 4x4 website.

Thanks Randy I would like to see your jugg- Join up at scale and post some pic's and of your Rig! It's awesome! :)

[pininfarina]

time to build the trailer... :)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/pininfarina1/My%20Semi-Trailer/DSC00521.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/pininfarina1/My%20Semi-Trailer/DSC00514.jpg

[bpbyrne]

Still need a battery and radio, but what to buy :confused: , a high end radio that will only allow one truck on the road at a time, or a new radio, and not the Futaba 4 channel Attack whatever. I used the Futaba Skysport radio on my King Hauler, with a 72MHz surface frequency, I want to stay away from the 27MHz band. Maybe another one of those on a different channel. I am open to suggestions on the radio and servos. What about a PCM radio? Who likes what best.

Regards,

Bernie
I personally like PCM radios, due to the failsafe mechanism. (If for any reason the radio signal is lost, my truck is configured to stop)
My personal radio is the 7CAP surface edition (75MHz). I would have gotten the 9CAPS, but couldnt justify the high cost of frequency modules right now.
One of the reasons I like the computer radios so much is I can define end points, so I never worry about my servos trying to overcome the mechanical limits of the model.

[pininfarina]

I personally like PCM radios, due to the failsafe mechanism. (If for any reason the radio signal is lost, my truck is configured to stop)
My personal radio is the 7CAP surface edition (75MHz). I would have gotten the 9CAPS, but couldnt justify the high cost of frequency modules right now.
One of the reasons I like the computer radios so much is I can define end points, so I never worry about my servos trying to overcome the mechanical limits of the model.

hi, I'm not too sure if failsafe would serve any purpose in electric power RC, if there's no signal the esc/motor won't even move? Don't know much abt radio, but I know for sure it would work on Nitro, to preset brakes on when there's no signal :confused:

[bmanderville]

time to build the trailer... :)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/pininfarina1/My%20Semi-Trailer/DSC00521.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/pininfarina1/My%20Semi-Trailer/DSC00514.jpg

Dude,

You really need to focus that lens. You should be able to clean it first, then it "should" turn inside the lens assembly, try a small to the left at first, if it's worse, try to the right. Seems as if it's focused for about a 7-8 foot distance. Close ups won't work with that.

But otherwise, did you put the servo for the motorized legs in the truck before you started the legs, or is it an add on?

Bernie

[bmanderville]

I personally like PCM radios, due to the failsafe mechanism. (If for any reason the radio signal is lost, my truck is configured to stop)
My personal radio is the 7CAP surface edition (75MHz). I would have gotten the 9CAPS, but couldnt justify the high cost of frequency modules right now.
One of the reasons I like the computer radios so much is I can define end points, so I never worry about my servos trying to overcome the mechanical limits of the model.

Would you please elaborate on the the servos overcoming the mechanical limits. I truely don't understand that.

The last time I really into RC models was in the early 80's.

Thanks,

Bernie

[cdm]

Would you please elaborate on the the servos overcoming the mechanical limits. I truely don't understand that.

The last time I really into RC models was in the early 80's.

Thanks,

Bernie

Too much servo torque breaking parts as it keeps on pushing steering etc when there is an object preventing normal movement.

[pininfarina]

Dude,

You really need to focus