Ofna Hyper 7 Forum v1.0

[AEAddict]

That's not a bad idea! hehe.

I still need to get a lexan sheet to protect my beutiful chassis.
hehe

[WHITESTER1]

Originally posted by MadUsa1
how much are you guys paying for your Hyper 7 kits?

$429.00 @ my LHS.

[OldskoolGT]

Thanks StevenB for the enlightenment. Would never have figured it out myself. I think I am gonna try to mount the sensor for a bicycle computer there just for fun. Then I wont have to risk the destruction of my GPS to find the top speed of my buggy. :D

[CTRallyRacer2]

To all the Hyper 7 Pro racers out there... how competative is the Hyper 7 Pro compared to the other top buggies (Kyosho, Mugen, Thunder Tiger, and Storm)? What type of setup are you running on your current buggy. I'm thinking of getting a competition level buggy and haven't fully decided on what to get. I like the fact that alot of the hop-ups are already included with the Ofna kits, versus the others (where you pay a heck of alot more for less).

[WHITESTER1]

They Hyper 7 Pro is a very good buggy. The only thing I'm not happy with is the soft front knuckles. They are made of a softer material, and strip easy, even if care is taken NOT to strip, they will strip. It has everything you need to be competitive with the buggy.

[hardcoretmaxx]

do you guys have any pics or videos of the hyper 7 pro or rtr

[hardcoretmaxx]

with the body on and off

[WHITESTER1]

I'm going tomorrow to the computer store to purchase a video capture card. If all goes smooth, I should have some great racing footage uploaded on my computer.

[WHITESTER1]

Well, everything went smooth. I have some footage of a hyper 7 that I was racing. Hyper7 racing action (http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/whitesterhyper7.wmv )

[hardcoretmaxx]

thats awesome man that looks like fun so you have a ofna hyper 7 how do you like it

[fezzy]

Hey guys, i bought a NMT about 3 months ago and although it handles really well i keep having one problem after another with it, its really quite fragile..... I have never driven hit hard, not even jumped it infact its not even been off-road yet but i wanna sell it along with my BMX and get something else thats going to be fast, strong and agile..... I found out off my m8 who bought a Hyper7 that he got it for £325! which is just in my budget if i get the money i want for my NMT and BMX but its either a Hyper7 or nothing because every other buggy is alot more cash.... SO how is it? i've heard there are some reliability issues with the front steering knuckles stripping but they can be replaced with kyosho steering knuckles from the MP5??? Apart from that how durable is it?

I understand that it is a big step up from a NMT with a 15FE but i understand how the 15FE works and can tune it, i look after the whole truck well and know regular maintainence work.... Do you think its going to be a good thing to get after 2 months with a NMT?? I had no previous nitro experience before i got my NMT but got my first R/C 10 years ago which was a tamiya blackfoot

[Scott H.]

Hardcoretmax,

here is a shot of the car dressed for Success.

Scott H.

[Scott H.]

and here is one naked. Easy fella ;)



Scott H.

[AEAddict]

Hey Scott.. could U take a close up of your throttle return spring for me!? I really need one on my H7 Pro..

[Scott H.]

It's on the last page of the 9.5 pro forum.

I got the spring from a local hardware store. For a digital I was able to use a .018" spring. For a non-digital I used a .020 spring.

I filled the hole for that bolt with J-B Weld. Then re-drilled the hole after it dried. I then threaded the lock nut on upside down and installed the whole thing w/ blue threadlock. Works great!
Best of luck,

Scott H.

[AEAddict]

Thanks Scott.

[hardcoretmaxx]

does any body have any pics of the hyper 7 cnc knuckles

[Scott H.]

HCTM,

Are you looking for the Ofna packaged CNC knuckles?
I could probably post a shot of those on my buggy (got to borrow the digital camera again). My buddy has the GS storm knuckles on his. They are the cool looking red ones.
Is there something specific you are looking for?

Scott H.

[hardcoretmaxx]

just the regular cnc ofna knuckles

[Scott H.]

HCTM,

not sure if this is what you want, but OldschoolGT (spl?) put up a very clear shot of the left steer knuckle sometime around the first to middle part of March...I think. he posted it to this thread.

Evidently he got two CVD's that were the wrong length. I think aeaddict helped him out. This picture has the knuckle mounted on the buggy.

If you want something different. let me know. I can probably post it tomorrow. I've got both the stock set with the bad threads and the stock set with the good threads. Both sets are new not mounted, so a picture at any angle would be pretty easy.

Let me know if I can help.

Scott H.

[hardcoretmaxx]

pic of the Both sets that are new and not mounted

[hardcoretmaxx]

so what do you guys think the hyper 7 pro or the 9.5 pro

[Scott H.]

Here is the picture of all three sets. the set at the bottom is the one with the incorrectly tapped holes

[hardcoretmaxx]

is the one with the dark left knukle is the cnc right

[Scott H.]

Scott H.

[hardcoretmaxx]

cool,thanks for you help

[hardcoretmaxx]

do you have any more pics of the hyper 7 pro or videos

[AEAddict]

Yo' H7 Guys. Scope this out. I completely broke my front left CVA. The bell housing broke!

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=79597

Wonder how much this is gunna cost... hmmm ? ...

[BuzzinHornets]

I posted this in the nitro forum but thought I may have better luck here. I have this kit pretty much together, but need help with the brake linkages. The instructions do not shed too much light on how these are supposed to be set up. Could somebody walk me through this? Maybe even post some pics of it at full throttle, full brake, and center position. I really just need to see how it is supposed to work, then I think I can get it right. Thanks!

[WHITESTER1]

The car jumps great. It wasn't the buggy looking bad, it was my fault tires were beyone bald. LOL! Only tires that work are custom made truck taper pins. I was running an OS 01.

More Hyper 7 Pro in action (http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/hyper7.wmv)

[AEAddict]

Wholly crap Whitester!! Was that U driving?

Great work man.. you schooled those other guys... majorly.

I woulda' done better @ my race if I didn't have so much trouble getting mine started (had a bump starter.. not a box at the time).

they had a "minute of silence" before each race.. where no engines could be running... and well... it took MUCH longer than one minute to get mine started.. so I was like 5 laps down because I was late to the races... all from a darn bump starter! ahh!
lol

[Scott H.]

AEaddict,

Jim (W.E.D.) is right about the a-arm flexing causing the CVA to bind and break. I just found mine broken when I pulled the front end apart to get the knuckle pictures for HCTM.

It ran great all day. I wouldn't have even checked it. But I bet if I hadn't I would have been pretty bummed the next time out.

I think I will make that part of my "after bashing" check from now on.

Mine broke just like yours, only it hadn't come apart yet.

Time for some Kyosho parts!

Scott H.

[CTRallyRacer2]

So the Kyosho parts are stonger? If that's the case... then I might just pickup the Kyosho 7.5 or the Mugen instead of the Hyper 7.

[AEAddict]

Thanks Scott..


what do the Kyosho front Universals run.. cost wise? ..

[WHITESTER1]

Yeah that was me driving AEaddict. It was my first time driving the Hyper 7. Once I get somemore time with the buggy, I'll smoke those Kyosho's EVEN MORE!!! LOL!!! In my opinion, that track was tight and technical, with lots of jumps. I DIDN'T break one part on the Hyper 7. But I did beat alot of Kyoshos.. LMAO!

Thanks!

[CTRallyRacer2]

So, the Hyper 7 is definately the way to go huh!? I'm hearing alot about the CVAs breaking. Do the ones that the Hyper comes with brittle or something? If I upgrade the CVAs, which ones do I upgrade to.

[Kevbo6204]

Hey if u guys dont like the colors of anodized metals...Take them off!!! How u ask...Well take oven cleaner and just spray it on let it sit for about ten min or so...then just wipe clean!!!..its that easy really!!..do this a few times for thebest results...Well just telling for the heck of it!

-Kevin

Ps: Im really thinking of getting the hyper 7 Pro its incredible!!!
Hey if u could tell me a little more info on it like rough track hgandlin and setup stuff that would b great!!!

Cya
kevinwilliams@mononagrove.org

:D

[WHITESTER1]

Hey Kev, I didn't like the purple colors. So I took off all the purple, and a local anodizer is changing everything to blue. Only cost 30 bucks to strip and re-anodize to the color blue! I'm talking everything too, all the washers, shocktowers, braces.. EVERYTHING! LOL

[Lost Racer1]

Anyone know the part numbers or even if they sell rebuild kits for the cva's? One of mine is stripped where the set screw goes in the end to hold the hub pin. If my wheel comes loose the whole hub will come off :D I had it happen once..

[hardcoretmaxx]

WHITESTER1 what do you think I should get a 9.5 pro or the hyper 7 pro

[WHITESTER1]

I never tell ANYONE to purchase anything. I can only make recommendations. If you want to email me with the following questions answered. I can give you an unbiased recommendation.
Do you want to race, or bash, or both?
Is money a factor?
What would you consider your skill level?

chris1634@hotmail.com

[hardcoretmaxx]

I sent you a e-mail

[Scott H.]

AEaddict,

I think they are all about the same price. ~ $50.00 for the pair.

I also heard that boiling the plastic parts helps make them stronger/more ridgid, one or both. I haven't tried this yet. I'm going to pick up a set of lower arms and try it.

Have fun!

Scott H.

[AEAddict]

Thanks Scott!


I also found the CVA's for $39.96 @ Ace Hobbies...
:D


Boiling the a-arms.. as far as I know makes them softer , cuz I did it on my Nitro MT when I had it.

[AEAddict]

Hey guys...

I was cleaning my car up last night.. and I wanted to ask you...

How do you make the car have less on power push?

During exiting a corner... mine wants to go straight... heh...

I havd 3000 Weight in the front, and 1000 Weight in the rear...

On the street... under power... the thing wants to go straight all the time under power.... it'll squirm and everything.. but still wants to go perfectly straight.

If I let off the throttle.. it'll instantly do what ever I want it to do, including kicking out the rear, sliding, 360's, etc (on street).

On dirt, it just wants to push no matter what.

What's ya'll's recommendations for "fixing" this ? ( I have a slight amount of front toe-out, and I have some rear toe-In)...

should I take the toe's out ? ..

[OldskoolGT]

Hi all,

I finally got to run my new H7 Pro yesterday and was very pleased with the results. Without using a hair dryer to pre-heat the engine, I doubt I would have ever got that thing (RB WS7) started since it was so tight. The motor idles beautifully now after putting several tanks through it.

Since the engine is still being broken-in, I was very easy on the throttle, but from what I can tell, the handling is great. So after dial in the suspension, I am expecting great things. I was using the mystery shock oil (that came with the kit), the purple springs, and some Ofna Excel tires, and I thought the buggy was easy to drive compared to my GTs since there was plenty of steering and grip. It's also quite luxurious having all four wheels do the braking :)

I was kinda thinking that I should have bought the Mugen earlier (when I had those wrong parts), but after talking to some H7 owners, I am pretty sure now that the H7 was the right choice.

[hardcoretmaxx]

what do you guys use to glue the brake pads will super glue work

[AEAddict]

Ummm....... you don't glue the brake pads. They "float" in there...

[hardcoretmaxx]

you are supposed to glue the pads

[AEAddict]

Ugh... No. How would you replace them if you glued them?


It says no where in the instructions to glue them.. so why do it ? ..

I'm having ZERO problems with the brakes with my "inferior un-glued" brakes...

so..

[hardcoretmaxx]

guess I will not glue them because you make a good point how are you going to replace them if there glued on alright thanks for your help

[Scott H.]

AEaddict,

Thanks for sparing me the expense of wasting a good set of arms!

As to getting rid of the on power push, there are a quite a few ways. All of them have to do with getting more traction to the front and less to the rear. All the following items will effect more than just push, so experiment with ONLY one adjustment at a time.

Sometimes you have to work more with the rear end then the front end to get the front end to stick. Especially with high traction tracks.

1). Raise the rear end
2). Lower the front
3). Less rear toe in
4). Stickier front tires
5). Heavier weight rear shock oil
6). Lighter front shock oil
7). Heavier rear springs
8). Lighter front springs
9). Less angle on the rear wing
10). More rear sway bar
11). Less front sway bar (with less toe out)
12). Less camber in rear
13). More anti squat in rear (not easily adjusted in our case)
14). Less caster in the front
15). More progressive shock rate on rear(move top in/bottom out)
16). Less progressive shock rate on front(move top out/bottom in)

Anytime you make one change it will effect others. This is a real trade off. So figure out what works best to lower your lap times, not what "looks" or "feels" faster. Nothing beats the stop watch to help setup your car.

Also see if you can get someone to video tape you on the track. Concentrate on smooth driving. Try to stay just below your limit and pick the fastest line.
If you are racing in the novice class work on setting your car to turn in tight and accelerate hard from the inside line.

If you find yourself going way off on any adjustment, bring it back to stock and start again.

Here is my setup, it has a slight off power push. Excellent on power tracking and no tendency to over steer even under hard braking).

30 weight oil stock pistons front and rear
Black springs front and rear
19*-20* castor (whatever the middle angled C-arm is)
Front shocks: top center/inner hole on A-arm. I run on hard smooth non-rutted tracks. This would suck on rutted tracks as the front end dives on braking and bottoms on jump faces.
1.5* toe out front
-2* camber front and rear
Rear:
Stock built in anti-squat
2.5 degrees toe in rear
Top center hole outer middle A-arm hole for rear shocks.

No bottoming screws in front or rear A-arms.

Front and rear A-arms level.
Fat black rear anti-sway bar
Front skinny polished anti-sway bar
Brake biased ~65% to front.

This setup will vary slightly with track conditions.

Most important is the old worn out loose nut behind the steering wheel :D

Hope this helps,

Scott H.

[WHITESTER1]

Originally posted by Scott H.
So figure out what works best to lower your lap times, not what "looks" or "feels" faster. Nothing beats the stop watch to help setup your car.


The local track that I run on most, has the software to run during practice. You can run personal transponders to time your practice laps. It really is a plus that you are able to see your laptimes after changes you make to the buggy. Then you know for sure if you vehicle is faster or just looks faster.

I agree, timing your practice laps helps.

Also, on the high traction track in the video. During practice I wanted more on power steering. I achieved this buy limiting the front shock up travel, with the set screws on the arms. Don't limit it too much. It doesn't take much to notice a difference. Some people don't recommend this at all. It worked for me on that particular track.

[AEAddict]

Wow Scott. Thank you a TON for all that setup information.

hehe.. I'm just so used to 2WD Stadium Trucks... heh.. and how they push like no-body's business under acceleration.. and then doin nuttin' but oversteer w/o power. This's the first non-stadium truck or sedan I've owned! hehe.

I'll give those new shock positions a shot... cuz the more "horizontal" they are.. the stiffer they are.. and the more "vertical" they are the softer they are. I'll try leanin' em in a bit.

I've got the rear fat swaybar on mine, and the little front swaybar on it. I've got the black springs front and rear (want to switch to whites.. they're much stiffer).. I've got 40 Weight shock oil in all four corners ...

I'll try a little less toe-out.. and ditch some of the rear toe-in. Cuz rear toe-in wants to make a car more stable under straight-a-ways... not turns, and on-power "pushes".

Thanks a bunch for the help bro. I appriciate it.

[Kevbo6204]

Hey, if u guys could answer some of my q's that would be great:

How is the Ofna Hyper .21 for the Hyper 7 Pro?

What is the stock setup u guys r using like shock and diff oil?

Which springs r stiffer Black or Purple?

What should i look for in a good remote for this buggy?

What servos should i use?

What should i look out for in the Hyper 7 Pro? Any Problems?

Just any general info would be Great!

Thanx Mucho,

Kevin

[Scott H.]

Kevin,

I'm running 3k in the front dif and 1k in the rear dif (haven't tried anything else). I've got the Torsen in the center (just 'cause I can :D)

For the springs put a black and a purple end to end. Then squeeze them. See which one compresses sooner. That will show you which spring is softer. You can do that with any set. Now the next thing is to look at progression. Notice the purple springs are longer. At what point does the purple spring stop compressing and the black spring start compressing? That is the difference in "Progression". You need to see where the shock shaft would be at that point. Is it in an area of constant travel? this will allow you to run the shocks at different angles (changing the "unsprung weight" or shock shaft progression, or both), compared to a spring of the different stifness, but shorter length.

As for a good remote, I always opt for the one that opens the fridge door and pops out a beer ;). But seriously (OK sort of seriously) it is harder to find a bad radio than a good radio. Look around and see what others are running. My brother and I run the same system. That way it is much easy to screw up each others radios when we aren't looking because we know the menu real well. On the more realistic side, guys at the track can help you better if they are comfortable with your menu program.

Servos: ball bearing are a must. I'm a big believer in "faster is better". If you search closely it seems anything over 100 oz/in is a good start. I've been running digitals, but I'm not really sold on them. Two have failed so far. Where none of my non-digitals have. That doesn't make them bad, just makes me wonder.

Problems with the Hyper 7: make sure you can get parts especially if you are a "basher". I go through way less parts racing than I do goofing around. Take the time to "fit" every part. everything should move and turn smoothly. This will help with longevity as well as performance.

General information: OK, how about General McArthur, General Custer...:D. Somebody else better jump in before I sink :cool:

Have fun...mucho,

Scott H.

[h2ovwdrvr]

AE try a thicker front diff oil you should be closer to 7,000. 5000 is what is reccomended in the manual but I like a bit more on power steering so I run 7k 10k will give you even a bit more on power steering the thicker oil you run up front the more the car will pull out of the corner a thin oil will unload easily and put power to the rear then the car will push like a 2wd esspecially with a torsen in the center. running a torsen up front with pull the hardest out of the corner but will be most noticible on a track that is rough esspecially if it is rough out of the corner

diff tuning will make the biggest differnce to the way your car handles

ofna offers a torsen for the front

I have also been told that the fioroni torsens for the Kyosho 7.5 will fit the hyper traction has more pull the storm traction has less of a torsen feel but are very light

[AEAddict]

Thanks for the help there H2.

The reason I put 3000 in mine is because ... from my knowledge of transmissions, differentials, and engines in real cars ( I work on them, etc) I have come to learn that an LSD up front wants to make the car go straighter.. and it gets more squirrely too.

My auto tech teacher has a Ford F250D .. it has Center LSD, Rear LSD, and Front LSD. When he engages the front LSD (lock-in or out), the truck does not want to turn worth anything. He took me for a ride in it to the hardware store one time, and I asked him about the optional front LSD in it. He said "Well.. here.. lets see how it does like this with no front LSD" ... so he took a corner pretty quickly ( a wide street corner). Then at the next stop light he engaged the front, and then took the next corner at the same speed. The truck almost hit the center median (at the same speed the last turn was) because it didn't want to go through the turn. He knows that I'm into these "crazy RC's" (as he puts it). I asked him how the different fluids would effect it. He said that 7000 Weight or higher would want to make the car resist a turn, because both wheels want to travel at the same speed. If they travel at the same speed, then they cannot make a corner quickly.

I may try 5000 Weight up front on the next rebuild, but I like the 1000 in the rear. Allows the backend to be pulled out under non-power slides when ever I want it to.

[Kevbo6204]

Hey this buggy sounds awesome!!!

Do any oof ou guys have a stock setup for this buggy?

I will be using this buggy for racing only, what r the parts i need to worry about breaking or replacing?

How does this buggy compare to Kyosho's, Thunder tiger's, or Mugens?




Thanx,
Kevin

[Anthen27]

Anyone else break the turnbuckles on the front end? both of mine broke after pretty mellow rollovers? I am using a piece of threaded rod from the rear of my MBX buggy for now with no problems, Anyone have a part # for lunsford turnbuckles?...

[OldskoolGT]

Here's a pic of my H7 Pro showing off its flex on a RC10GT. Yee haw. :) The H7 deserves only the finest stuff, so its got a RB WS7 Engine, two Hitec 5925 digital servos, and a JR R-1 PCM radio for control.

Kevbo, the H7 is competitive with the best 1/8 buggies. Two very good drivers have told me that they think the Hyper 7 is better than the Mugen buggy, and one of them was not an Ofna team driver (the first guy might have been biased). Kyosho's Kanai 7.5 is probably the best buggy out there, but you really PAY for it.

It looks like the main trouble spot is the front CVDs, which is resolved by putting in the Kyosho universal axles in there place. I haven't driven my buggy enough to break anything.

[junior]

:D i just got my Hyper 7 Pro last week , this thing is wild handles great. Although i wasn't very happy when i found out they change the shock towers from carbon fiber back to black aluminum,but they did give spare steering knukles two steal spurs & the trasponder mount was graphite insted of plastic.I Love this car,will post pics when i get some.

[BuzzinHornets]

Here is my H7 pro, allmost done with break in, rich and half throttle this thing is still fast.

http://remoh19.home.attbi.com/images/bug2.jpg
http://remoh19.home.attbi.com/images/bug3.jpg

[OldskoolGT]

Did everybody else get 2 spur gears with their H7 pros? I only got 1 with my kit.


Junior, one of the sets of steering knuckles has oversized holes drilled in it. They will strip out quite quickly if you use them.

[BuzzinHornets]

I got one for the torsen and one for the regular diff, maybe that is what he means.

I also have a pipe question, right now I have an ofna/picco comp in the H7 pro and was thinking about picking up the Novarossi 063 pipe. Will I notice much of a performance increase over the stock pipe? thanks.

[junior]

My steering knuckles are exaclty the same neither of them have oversized holes they both came with their own cap head screws,bushings&washers,there both tapped for 4mm screws.As for the spurs yeh thats what i ment one 46t with the torsen&one 46t with the regular diff.;)

[JohnT]

The extra set of knuckles is to replace the stock set when they strip out. The newer set is drilled and tapped for a tighter fit - the older ones were too sloppy and didn't get enough thread engagement. Dollar for dollar the H7 is tough to beat. Most of my buds drive Mugens and as far as I can see the H7 is built at least as well if not better. The only concern I have is that some parts don't seem to last long enough - drive axles, knuckles. I don't have a lot of experience to compare so we'll see. I've got an RTR and a Pro - the RTR is a practice/test mule and the Pro is for racing. I plan to campaign the whole year in the Southeast. We'll see how they hold up!

[98vols]

Anyone know where I can find some yellow side skids and a
yellow wing. I tired the GS Storm wing but the holes are too
close together.

[racer13]

i have a new addition to my family.. yes yes a ofna 1/8 hyper 7 .. i got it for $150... with extras.. so now my family is an rc10, two xxx-nt's ( one is decked out with graphite), hyper 7.. YAY!:D

[WHITESTER1]

Anyone ever seen an ALL BLUE anodized Hyper 7 Pro?

Is purple a favorite color of Hyper owners?

[racer13]

when i get mine, it's going to be all blue ( thats my favorite color) purple is just, not my color

[WHITESTER1]

Here it is....


http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/pics/Hyper7pics3.jpg



http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/pics/Hyper7pics6.jpg


http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/pics/Hyper7pics2.jpg

[racer13]

ohhh mommy :D very nice car.. maybe take out the graphite console and put in a blue anidized one! that'd make that car shine

[AEAddict]

Wholly crap !!! Who'd you have re-ano that !? .. I like that more than the purple..

[hardcoretmaxx]

that almost looks like a 9.5 pro

[ofnaman]

Looks like you used the extras from someones 9.5 pro because its all blue.

[WHITESTER1]

Hey thanks people!

Those are genuine Hyper 7 Pro parts. The purple annodizing was stripped, and they were reannodized with blue. The pictures really don't due it any justice. The buggy looks better in person. It almost looks too good to race! LOL

The only thing I would want from the 9.5 is the threaded shocks. Those will be the next upgrade.

[OldskoolGT]

Sweet looking buggy Whitester. I'm not really a fan of purple either. Unlike you, I am too lazy to do anything about it. :D

[nolanr0413]

i h the right front turnbuckle break on me when it went airborne. Figgen ofna has the parts on backorder so i ordered the the threaded rod ones like on the rtr . does anyone know the part number of the o ring thats inbetween the diff, the big one , and the smaller one.

[Scott H.]

Nolan,

If you have a way to cut off ~5mm off each end, the Kyosho turn buckles are the same diameter and work real well. I threw away the package, so I don't have a part number for you.

Whitester,

excellent looking buggy! It's the little things that all add up. Very nice job!

Have fun!

Scott H.

[WHITESTER1]

Thanks oldskool, and Scott.

I turned out really nice. I was kind of skeptical at first. The guy who annodized the parts was a friend of a friend. And well you know how that goes sometimes.... LOL. It was really inexpensive to do, only 15 US dollars. So I kinda thought the annodizing wouldn't turn out too good, being that cheap to do.
It really looks nice in the sun light. Now I hope the blue makes my Hyper win alot of races. LOL!!!:D

[AEAddict]

So... what's new y'all ? .. this thread's been kinda' dead lately... lol..

I haven't had a chance to run my H7 all week... been 2 darn busy with school.. and staining decks! lol.

[hardcoretmaxx]

is the O.S RZ 01b easy to brake in. Is it easyer then a hyper .21

[AEAddict]

It's easy, in my books. I have never broken in that other motor.. but I had no troubles getting mine actually broken in. It took us 45 minutes to get it to initially start, because the piston kept getting stuck at TDC... but.. other than that.. it was easy..

[hardcoretmaxx]

what did you do to get it on stuck

[OldskoolGT]

Heya AE and all,

I haven't got to drive my H7 lately either. Just got some Kyosho blue springs though. They appear stiffer than the black or purple stock springs.


hardcoretmaxx,

All the high end .21 motors have a very tight piston/sleeve fit. I have heard somewhere that the OS is the tightest. Once you finally get the motor running, break-in is pretty easy.

This is kinda hard to explain, but I'll give it a shot. To get a piston unstuck, use a flat blade screwdriver to rotate the flywheel. Stick the screwdriver in the knurled part of the flywheel and use a prying motion (use the chassis as the fulcrum). Do this from the underside of the chassis.

[AEAddict]

I hear ya' OldskoolGT... heh...

Since Saturday.. it's pretty much thunderstormed every day here... and we haven't had a chance to get any good races in, let alone even be able to run the 1/8th's...

I just got my MRC Superbrain 959 charger on order, so I'll finally be able to charge up my packs with out bugging my friend! hehe.. so that'll be good.

About the Kyosho blue springs.... do they fit our shocks ok? .. are they the same length? ... cuz I could really use some stiffer springs too... I've got the black ones... and they still aren't stiff enough for my liking. Lemmie know if they fit... then I'll go get some!

What'd the set of 4 cost ya? ..

thanks!

[WHITESTER1]

I am also running the Kyosho powder blue springs. The are what I like best. And most of the tracks I race at, most racers use the same springs. They feel softer at the beginning, then stiffen up more at the end of the spring compression. But what the heck do I know... LOL

I am running the OS '01 and yes it does get stuck at TDC. I used a heat gun to heat the sleeve and piston, then was able to start the engine easier. Also, another tip is during break in, when you stop the engine, make sure it is not stopped at TDC. It will greatly improve you chances of it NOT getting stuck.

A new local track around here is having their very first race this upcoming weekend. I should have some small video clips up Saturday night, hopefully of the Hyper 7 taking the victory! LOL

[ofnaman]

I have 2 small hyper vids if anyone wants to see them or if they can post them.

[ofnaman]

You can email me at jatilano@vikingcomponents.com

[duramaxx]

I just go my hyper 7 rtr and I am trying to find a good spot to hook my trs . does any one know of a good spot to hook one up. Also who makes to best trs.

[hardcoretmaxx]

does anybody have a ofna picco comp and how do you like it

[OldskoolGT]

Duramaxx,

Check out the Ofna 9.5 forum, somebody posted a very close up pic of how he mounted a TRS on a Hyper 7. A spring is a spring IMHO, so just use whatever works (try the hardware store). You could even use a rubber band for the TRS.

[nolanr0413]

Does anyone know the part numbers of the large rubber o ring in the diff, it seals the diff pieces togeher, mine busted when i was trying to put it on. I also need the part number for the smaller one in the diff case. I cant find part numbers and my lhs isnt much help either. Has anyone had as much trouble as me of getting a threaded trunbuckle and 4 tires. I have been waiting 4 weeks for the turnbuckle and 2 weeks fo the tires.

[OldskoolGT]

Nolan,

In the manual, they only list #87004, which is the diff case and the large and small o-rings.


AE, I got the blue Kyosho springs from National RC. The price was $28 (ouch) for all 4 springs. They fit the Hyper 7 shocks fine. They appear to be just a bit stiffer than the black springs. I bought them because that's what all the fast guys are running.

[h2ovwdrvr]

ofna also does a set of blue springs that are identical to the kyoshos and they are 20 bucks they are in most of the current car actions and rc nitro ads for the 9.5.

as for a throttle return spring you can run one if you plan to replace your throttle servo every other month if not run something that will actually work a failsafe ofna makes a real good one for about 35 bucks or if you want a perfect one go for the futaba about 75 bucks I have one in each of my gas cars.

I have seen at least 20 gas cars run away at our stores track with a throttle retun spring in the last year yet I have not seen one with a failsafe run away and in the last year alone I have seen over 100 throttle servos killed by throttle return springs

so it is your choice

[Scott H.]

Duramax & h2ovwdrv,

If the battery fails, or the switch gets turned off, the electronic fail safe won't do anything for you. That is why guys run a throttle return spring.

An electronic fail safe is to return the servo to a predetermined position should you have some kind of receiver issue that blocks the signal to the servo.

IMO you should run both.

If you run a digital you can get away with a .020" spring. If you run a standard servo you may need up to a .018" spring. Any good hardware store will have these.

I posted a picture of how mine is mounted in the 9.5 Pro forum about a month ago. It works just fine. Just don't make it so stiff that it stalls the servo. All you need is enough to return the throttle. It doesn't even have to come back all the way.

All you are trying to do is prevent a "run-a-way" condition. If you flip over and lose a battery, or your switch gets turned off (like in a nasty crash). You don't want your engine going wide open as it leans out...that is unless you really don't like your engine ;). Also if you lose a battery your buggy won't take off and hit something or someone.

I run both the electronic failsafe and a trs. Haven't had a servo failure nor a run-a-way engine. Just makes for cheap insurance.

Happy racing!

Scott H.

[RITDR]

About two weeks ago I let my friend test drive my hyper for a few laps around his small track in his backyard, anyway he came over the jump, landed fine, and came straight for me. I jumped out of the way and looked at him and he's flippin out trying to get the car to steer or slow down, he had no control at all! I knew I couldnt catch the car (about 3/4 throttle) so I just started to walk/jog after it. We got lucky though, it ran in and up a big evergreen tree with branches that touched the ground. Very lucky! It was kinda funny when we found out there was no damage. So, I have been working on getting a good return spring setup also.

[h2ovwdrvr]

I am just saying what I have seen being the assistant manager of a rather large hobby store. I see more damage due to throttle return springs than I do due to runaway conditions on a day in day out basis I see around 1000 dollar a week in bad servos due to throttle return springs.

In 12 years of racing I have never seen a switch get shut off do to a accident not mine or another racers but I do now run the KO switches which you have to intend to turn off to turn them off.

As for battery failure the only time I see this is with 4 cell holders which if you are running a buggy you should not be running period. I did have a battery fail me once but my failsafe still saved me the wire got cut under the shrink and dead shorted but power lasted for the milisecond or to for my failsafe to cut the throttle

I did sell 4 servos today do to the use of throttle return springs and 3 reciever packs so that the servos would have the power to pull a throttle return spring so if you want to continue using throttle return springs go ahead you are helping pay my paycheck and other hobby store employees checks

[Scott H.]

RITDR,

I take it you already have the fail safe. If you just lose signal the spring may or may not help (depending on type of receiver used).

h20vwdrv's tall tale aside, it is the electronic fail safe that will drop the engine speed, as long as you have battery power, and have just lost the signal to the receiver.

Here's another catch. If someone fires up their transmitter on your frequency neither the EFS or the spring is going to help you. In a case like that I think a baseball bat works best :D
Or... for us non-violent types, a PCM system may help.

The spring will return the throttle when you loose power to the receiver or servo, if setup properly.

h20vwdrv,

As for damaging a servo due to using a return spring, you would have to use a rediculously strong spring pulling at a severe angle to cause the servo to fail. A spring of proper tension pulled linearly will not cause a servo to fail.

If what you are saying is true then we'd be replacing servos all the time in our contest helicopters and aerobatic planes. And guess what?... We don't!

Ask one of the vendors who makes the EFS to send you something in writing on how their product will return the throttle when you have a switch, battery failure or lose power at the servo.

As to whether or not to use a TRS I think it is more a personal choice. On the down side is more battery drain, and another mechanical "point of failure". If the spring was to come unhooked it could bind in the linkage, or get somewhere it shouldn't :mad: On the upside, in case of electrical failure you have a mechanical device that may help keep you from damaging your buggy or something/someone.

Keep it real!

Scott H.

[h2ovwdrvr]

first off a failsafe will shut down if someone turns on to your frequency that is what they are primarly designed for they function the same as pcm but don't slow equipment down as pcm does. and a failsafe will work if you have any miniscual amount of power from your battery when mine dead shorted it did it slowly the failsafe detected the low voltage for that split second before it blew and shut down the servo.

I had something nasty written here to this guy. But to someone who calls me a liar I can't do anything more than laugh because he has insulted himself by not realizing I know what I am talking about I have doen rc for about 12 years I do cars planes and helis and I have owned over 200 cars in my years in rc.

[OldskoolGT]

Fellow Hyper 7 drivers,

Anyone got suggestions on what spare parts I should pick up? I plan to start racing verry soon, but don't want to spend another $440 to buy a backup H7 for parts. Here's what I am thinking of picking up:

bevel gear set for diffs
shock shafts, front and rear
the plastic shock parts
bulkhead
front and rear lower suspension arms
wheel nuts
clutch bell


About that TRS thing. FWIW, I too have seen expensive and cheap analog servos that couldn't be used with a TRS because the spring had to so stiff (in order to move the servo) that it would stall the servo.

[h2ovwdrvr]

number one thing to carry as spares
HARDWARE
most of your list is good but diff parts are not really necessary the diffs are almost bomb proof mine are about a year old now and are still smooth as silk.

clutch bell and bulkheads are not entirely neccessary also I have seen one person break a bulkhead and a bell is a wear item but you should get at least a year on it.

you should also have a set of c hubs on hand and rear knuckles front kingpin screws front upper arms and a spare set of front cvd's and if you race where it is cold keep a wing or two on hand they snap if it is cold out

[Scott H.]

Something I have seen is the clutch bell bearings go out at the worst time.

Might be worth while to keep a spare set. Or maybe a clutch bell with the bearings already installed.

Thin CyA and thread are real handy for quick repairs of broken parts (kind of makes a splint).

Also we've repaired lower A arms and other things by using safety wire.

Whatever gets you through the day.

When I was doing full contest seasons, I'd tear down my cars and trucks after each weekends event. That way on race day I knew all was good and had one less thing to worry about.
The old saying of "to finish first, you must first finish" should be changed to "to finish first, you must do maintenance".

The biggest thing is to get started on the new "Trophy room". Only so many will fit under the bed :cool:.

Have fun, and best of luck,

Scott H.

[OldskoolGT]

Thanks for the advice guys. A few more questions.

Are there any areas on the H7 that I should pay extra attention to while doing pre-race maintainance?

Is there a big performance gain from an aftermarket pipe? I think the stock pipe is a top end pipe by the shape of it. Having 3 chambers probably isn't helping performance either. I am thinking about buying the 2 chamber Ofna pipe (http://www.ace-hobbies.com/Images/Pipes/18pipe.html) after hearing some nice things about it. Or maybe the RB 063.

End of questions.


I got some Treadz dish wheels (GRP from Italy, soon to be distributed by Trinity) and they don't really work too well on the H7. They are wider than the stock wheels and have to be trimmed because they hit the steering linkage ends. The wheel nut opening is also too small to use with an Ofna wheel wrench or 17mm socket. Good thing I only paid $6/pair for those wheels.

[Scott H.]

The WS7 and RB63 are an excellent match. My buddy was running this combo with the stock ofna header, until he broke the stinger. Then he went to the one piece pipe that is tuned to the same wave length.
The sound is pure F1. It is just soft enough on the bottom to make driving on slick tracks easy. The mid range makes you drool and it still has plenty of over-rev. He runs O'donnel 20%.

I've only had enough time to put about 1/2 gallon through mine (work sucks), but from the three I've seen at our track, I'd watch the CVD's/diferential output cups, and leaking dif's.

Go kick some glutimas maximus!

Scott H.

[Meestor_X]

Is the OFNA Hyper-7 the same as the HoBao Hyper-7?

Hobao Hyper-7 (http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/hob_hyp7p.htm)

[Nitro Newbie]

it looks the same. are you sure ho bao isnt just distributing these???

[Nitro Newbie]

.

[Nitro Newbie]

.

[OldskoolGT]

Meestor_X,

The vehicles are the same thing. Ofna is the US distributor for the Ho Bao Hyper 7.

[John Crowe]

I was reading over at the starting grid that in December the hyper 7 will be equiped with pivot ball suspension. Has anyone else heard any of these details?

[h2ovwdrvr]

Ofna has been testing a pivot ball suspension I do not have any idea when it will be released or if it will be released

[AEAddict]

Will there be a conversion kit to the pivotball front end for the Hyper 7 ? .... or do you have to buy a whole new kit ? (god I hope not)...

[Serius Black]

Originally posted by h2ovwdrvr
he has insulted himself by not realizing I know what I am talking about I have doen rc for about 12 years I do cars planes and helis and I have owned over 200 cars in my years in rc.

The more you brag, the more obvious it becomes that you're probably not telling the truth. Besides, someone with so much experience should probably have given a better explanation as to the operation of a fail safe vs a PCM radio.

[Serius Black]

Originally posted by h2ovwdrvr
I am just saying what I have seen being the assistant manager of a rather large hobby store. I see more damage due to throttle return springs than I do due to runaway conditions on a day in day out basis I see around 1000 dollar a week in bad servos due to throttle return springs.

More bragging. Though the fact that you are an assistant manager at a hobby shop doesn't make your claim of owning 200 cars more believable. It's no mystery that the Mercedes out in the parking lot doesn't belong to one of the shop employees. So, you guys push out $52,000 in defective servos a year? Yeah. OK.

In 12 years of racing I have never seen a switch get shut off do to a accident not mine or another racers but I do now run the KO switches which you have to intend to turn off to turn them off.

How many years have you been racing again?

I did have a battery fail me once but my failsafe still saved me the wire got cut under the shrink and dead shorted but power lasted for the milisecond or to for my failsafe to cut the throttle

OK, and your point? The failsafe didn't do a thing. Your rec'vr had power long enough for you to pull on the brakes. No power to the failsafe = dead failsafe.

I did sell 4 servos today do to the use of throttle return springs and 3 reciever packs so that the servos would have the power to pull a throttle return spring so if you want to continue using throttle return springs go ahead you are helping pay my paycheck and other hobby store employees checks

Why don't you start selling your customers better servos? I've never had a return spring destroy any of my servos, but I also never run 3003's or any stock servos on a nitro car.

[OldskoolGT]

I think that there will be an upgrade kit for the pivotball suspension from my understanding. After seeing Mugens with bent pivotballs, I would rather just stick with the traditional style since its stronger.

[AEAddict]

Me too OldSkool. Hinge-Pin designs ARE stronger... I did a SERIOUS cartwheel in mid air landing on one wheel out at the track, and arms lasted and everything... a dude with a Mugen XR Works did the same thing, and snapped the top pivot-ball off the front left of his buggy. I just snickered...

[Scott H.]

I haven't owned anything with PBS (except my television ;)), but I was thinking of the advantage in doing quick setup changes.

I wonder how it does in comparison to hinge pin as far as binding goes? Would it be smoother in movement under load?

Then, how long it would take a company like Lunsford to make Ti balls for it. that should help the durability factor.

There are a few Mugen XR's at our track. I'll have to check 'em out.

It's cool to see new stuff. Makes me want to mount my body backwards and start racing again ;)

Anybody monitoring the Mugen forum? or any Mugen owners want to chime in?

Scott H.

[h2ovwdrvr]

As far as a pivot ball setup I have ran them for a few years and have never had a problem. I have ran it mostly on onroad car a serpent impact, nitro tc3, 2 nitro ob4's, 3 electric ob4's, a colt 10 99, a t maxx, an e maxx, and on my worlds 2 which I am running front and rear pivot ball suspension I have never broken or bent one on any of them.
I have broken the same amount of parts on my worlds two as my hyper so I do not see durability as a issue.

The only car I have seen a bent pivot ball on was a v one r I have seen that a couple of times but it was from guys a outside wooden or cement wall in second gear on any other tc the plastic on the side of the car would have been ripped off.

as far as binding a pivot ball suspension is has less slop and binds less the a knuckle suspension

[HP7]

Hi everyone,

I am hoping someone can tell me what I need to change from pull start engine to non pull start. I would like a better engine to race with. Any information would greatly be appriciated.:confused:

[h2ovwdrvr]

nothing to change just bolt in the motor of you choice.

As for motors if you want a good motor it has to be made in europe RB, Picco, Novarossi, JP, and Collari all make good motors Most anything from those comapnies would be good

[HP7]

Could anyone tell which starter box you are using. I'm looking for one to use with a new motor.

[AEAddict]

Get the Mugen Purple Starter box. You'll need to purchase TWO 7.2 Volt battery packs as well...

That box'll start anything..

[HP7]

Hey thanks AEAddict, I'll look at that box since I need one for my nitro tc3 too.

[OldskoolGT]

Hey guys,

Just thought I would pass some good deals to my fellow H7 drivers.

Ehobbiesoutlet.com has some good deals on stuff we can use in our H7s.


Mugen differential fluid is $2.99. http://www.ehobbiesoutlet.com/more-mugen.html

I believe we can use this Lundsford turnbuckle pair ($6.99) for steering. http://www.ehobbiesoutlet.com/1003-0610.html

And not for the H7, but a great pipe for 1/10
http://www.ehobbiesoutlet.com/more-paris-racing.html

Shipping is cheap too.

HP7, IMHO you can pretty much use any decent starter box for 1/8 buggies. Just pre-heat the engine when breaking it in. I am using the Ofna True-Start 1/10 scale box to start my H7. The pink Ofna box is a good starter box for $75 and can be used for 1/10 stuff too, unlike the blue Ofna 1/8 starter box.

[HP7]

OldskoolGT, what are using for heating the new engine for breakin:confused:

[OldskoolGT]

I used a hair dryer to preheat my WS7 before starting it during the break in . I also loosened the glow plug 1/2 turn and then tightened it back up after the engine started.

[HP7]

I thought about the hair drier but didn't know if it would get hot enough. I already loosen the glow plug and retighten it when it starts. Thanks again for the help I really need it.

[radkeela2]

what parts do i need to convert my rtr to a pro version and does anyone have part #s thanks you can post them here or you can email me radkeela2@aol.com

[WHITESTER1]

I haven't been here in awhile.... all is good with my Hyper 7. Just racing and rippin up some tracks. Here is some footage of a local track that just opened up a couple weeks ago.


Hyper 7 Pro racing vid (http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/fullthrottle525.wmv)


Continuation of same heat. (http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/ftr525.wmv)

[Scott H.]

Whitester,

Nice driving. Your driving is consistent and smooth with few mistakes. Which on that rough of a track, looks pretty tough.

Have fun,

Scott H.

[us_matrix]

Hi Guys,

Help me out...

I am thinking about either get a 9.5 Pro or 7 Pro. They both look really good but which one suppose to be better.

Thanks.

[OldskoolGT]

Thanks for posting the video Whitester. Someday I hope to crash as infrequently as you. :)

Matrix,

I think all of us H7 owners are in agreement that the Hyper 7 is a better buggy than the 9.5. This probably isn't the best place to find unbiased opinions on the Hyper 7. :D

[mjulian]

I have read numerous posts about the steering knuckles of the Hyper 7. I too, have been plagued with the lack of tight tolerances on the knuckles. I run the PRO kit and recently purchased a set of the CNC Aluminum knuckles only to be dissapointed to discover these new knuckles bind. I replaced the screws with new ones and it is a little better, however I was curious if others have similar experiences? Anyone purchase the OFNA CNC steering knuckles?

My next step is to replace the hubs...

[Scott H.]

I'm running the Ofna CNC knuckles on my H7 Pro. The only thing I noticed is that at full extension the the spindle arm hits the lower A arm. Hasn't effected the steering while driving though. So I've never worried about it.

I'm running the mid angle hubs. I think it's like 19 or 20 degrees.

BTW the Dynamite knuckles for the GS pro work real well and are way cheap!

Best of luck,

Scott H.

[mjulian]

Thanks Scott, I appreciate your input.

Any setup that you have found that works well. Generaly speaking. (Ride height, toe in and out) You mentioned the 19 degree hubs. Have you tried the 17 and 22 degree? What did you think?

Mike

[Scott H.]

Mike,

Haven't raced this...yet :D.

In fact I haven't hardly run the poor thing! After 3 months I just finished it's first gallon. Been working way too much :(, and flying the rest of the time.
If you go back away's I posted my setup. Haven't tried anything else yet. I need to get my driving back to being consistent before I start varying too much from stock. Otherwise I end up chasing my tail all over the place. You might check with Whitester. He's racing his and should have some good input.
Also there was a guy who's website is W.E.D. Can't remember the guys name, but I think he was racing a H7 Pro.

Best of luck, and have fun!

Scott H.

[OldskoolGT]

Hey all,

Here is a H7 setup I found somewhere (probably from the Starting Grid). I am gonna give it try next week, after I move to the back to the Dallas/Fort Worth area.


Front- arms level for ride height, blue kyosho springs, pistons
drilled to 55 using racer edge finger drill, 30wt assoc. shock oil for
bumpy tracks, or 35 for smoother tracks with large jumps, 3000 wt diff fluid, inside hole on arm for shock and outside on tower. 17 deg. caster, 1.5 deg. neg camb. 0 toe.

center- 5000 wt diff for bumpy track, or 7000 for smooth with big
jumps, set brake bias at 60%rear, 40% front.

rear- short wheelbase, kyosho blue springs, pistons drilled to 54 hole, 25 wt. oil bumpy tracks, 30 smooth big jumps, 1000 wt diff fluid, shocks , outside hole arm, inside bottom hole tower, wing middle location, 2 degr. toe in per side, so total of 4 deg., bones level for ride height, 2 degr. neg camber.


BTW, the stock black springs are pretty close to the Kyosho blues, so give those a try before spending $30 on a set of Kyosho springs.

[Big Wig]

Hi all!

I posted this in the 9.5 thread but there doesn't seem to be a lot of "tech talk" going on in there so I thought I'd post it here. I know it's a 9.5 and not a Hyper 7 but I'm sure you folks can help ;)

"OK, I hope to have the 9.5 by the end of the week, and as a Father's Day present to myself, I plan to put a few hours into the build on Sunday

I've ordered an OS RZ-VO1B (whoooo hooooo!!!!) and I have some nice servos to put in; Hitec 5925 for steering and a 5625 for throttle/brake.

I'd like to know a good starting set up for the buggy. I will be running on fairly rough tracks, nothing brutal but certainly not smooth. I have lots of oils laying around - I have 30, 35, and 40wt shock oils and I have 1000, 5000, 7000 and 10000wt diff oils. What do you all suggest to fill up the diffs and shocks with? It's probably a pipe dream, but I'd love to show up with the 9.5 for it's first race night and do a little damage to some Mugens and Kyoshos!!!

thanks
Jay"

[Meestor_X]

Hi;

Just bought and assembled my new H-7 PRO A-RTR. It came with 2 sets of springs - black and slightly longer purple. The purple feel a little softer than the black ones.

The problem is that neither set are stiff enough to set the ride height any higher than about 1/2 the shock travel. I know it shouldn't be at the top of the shock, but I want it higher than it is. The supplied spacers help, but not enough.

What is the point of such soft shocks? This car will be bottoming out ALL THE TIME!

I guess the answer is to buy stiffer shocks, but I'm just wondering why they supply shocks that are IMHO too soft.

[HoBaoHOBO]

Big Wig.....

I run a hyper pro weekely and this is my setup. Our track is a brutal one with a 30 ft. plus jump on the straight, a huge high speed bank to another huge jump into a set of doubles. From there it goes into a set of hairpins and into another 2 sets of doubles (or quads depending on your speed) and into another high bank turn back to the straight. The track is hard packed clay and a slick sandy texture in the banks.

Front Shock lower mount.....outer hole
Upper......Lower center row
(lay em down for the turns)
100 weight shock oil (anything less pancakes on the big jump)

Rear Shock
Lower Middle, Top:Lower Row Middle....(The pistons will bottom out if you take out the limiters and then set the rear shock in the top hole) 100 wt oil with a third hole drilled......(same on lighter weights)

Kyosho Blues all the way around with about a half inch preload on all fours......I get a little rebound on the rear right now so I'm trying a little less preload next weekend.

If your track is fairly smooth with alot of jumps then you can fudge with higher weight in the shock bodies. If its a rough track, sacrifice the good soft landings for stability over the rough stuff and stay around 50 wt in the shocks.

Front Diff
5000 wt

Center Diff
7000 wt

Rear Diff
Light Grease


I run the optional 22 degree hub carriers and DO NOT use the torsen. I don't find it to be that great especially once you tune in your diffs.

Another good idea is to replace all the graphite brittle crap with the beefier aluminum stuff. Only do this if you've got some huge air. The aluminum is cheaper and can be straightend out 2 or 3 times before its unuseable. Graphite just breaks. $$$

BTW theres an ok article on diff setup in this months xtreme rc cars (did I say that):(

There is a good setup at http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/cml_setup.htm

this one is used for Europes grass tracks but is a good setup for most.....

This car is a hoss'

[OldskoolGT]

Meestor,

Buggies just seem bottom out all the time since they sit so low. The common hot setup uses the Kyosho blue springs, which bottoms out quite a bit.

Big Wig,

for some 9.5 info, go to:

http://www.jamminproducts.com/ofna_9_5.htm

[WHITESTER1]

Wha... wha... wha... whaaattt??? 100 wt shock oil? WOW! LOL
Talk about some dampening. My Hyper7 would just bounce all over the place with 100 wt.

[Meestor_X]

OldskoolGT;

Well, it's good to know it's normal, at least.
So it's normal for the buggy to bottom out all the time?

[1Nice_GT]

Hey everbody, I am thinking of getting the hyper 7 RTR, it's pretty close to the "pro" model, has anyone had any problems with it? cuz it's only $446.09 (RTR), and i can get all the graphite and titanium trickery later, does it handle good, and how does it jump?
thanks

[AEAddict]

1Nice_GT .... it's a great buggy. O own one, and believe me.. you won't be disappointed in it. I'd give it a 5 stars out of 5 stars if there was a rating system on these boards....

[OldskoolGT]

Meestor_x,

My H7, with the setup I described in an earlier post, bottoms out if I drop it from a height of about 1 foot off the ground, so they do bottom out a lot. I guess that should be expected though, since the clearance is about the same as a 1/10th scale gas truck but the weight is considerably more.


1Nice_GT,

I don't have the RTR, but I do konw the RTR H7 really needs a better steering servo. Just add some rear CVDs, and maybe upgrade to quad disc brakes, and you will have a great buggy.

[enzo631]

Can someone tell me what the difference is between the hyper 7 pro and the pro-r? Thanks.

[radkeela2]

my newest paint job

[radkeela2]

go here http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=56694&perpage=25&pagenumber=11

[RB RUSTLER]

How Fast Do the Go

[kanairacer]

hey radkeela2 I think I sold you your hyper 7 pro-r. how do you like it?

[radkeela2]

i love the buggy other than the kit missing the whole center diff,im having to run the torsen right now,i gotta call ofna and see if they will send me one.

[kanairacer]

that's the same with my kit. I just run the torsen in the front and have the other two as regular diffs. Too bad the kit doesn't include the third one. I could get one for you if you are interested. it drives so nicely.

[kanairacer]

don't waste money on the CNC knuckles, buy the kyosho ones, they fit right in and only cost 15 bucks at most.

[dlandsv]

My Hyper 7 pro kit came with both center difs. The Torsen and the stock one. I assume it's one of the later kits, as I only received one set of steering knuckles (from Nitro House about a month ago).

I've seen posts where it says the Kyosha steering knuckles bolt in. I assume, this means the bearings work from the Hyper etc.

Also, how about replacing the Hyper 7 cva joints with Kyosha universal units. I understand they are more durable than the Hyper cvas.

If so are they bolt in also, or will I have to cut or modify to fit/ or do universal joints from other cars work/ bolt in?

Mugen, etc.

TIA

[OldskoolGT]

dlandsv,

The Kyosho universals are supposed to be a direct drop in. I just ordered some, so I will report back on how they fit. ***Edit*** bad info removed.

[kanairacer]

almost all kyosho parts fit right in. from what i see, the hyper 7 pro is an exact copy of the inferno 7.5

[AEAddict]

Nope. It's not a direct copy, look at the front A-Arms, and front Upper Arms... they don't look the same..

Most universals, and bearings, and drivetrain parts will fit from one buggy to another simply because all the manufacturers have standardized their sizing. Mugen, Kyosho, Ofna, and everyone else use the exact same size diameter axles, same size bearings, same size pinion gears... etc. Kyosho's differentials are supposedly "smaller for less rotating mass" and pushed farther down in the chassis... whether or not it helps is beyond me because my H7 Pro accelerates just as fast as my friend's MP 7.5.

Also, I had a case of the Nitro Demons yesterday... my flywheel came loose! ahhh.. so I had to stop my fun, an tear it down right there at the field and take it all apart. (Pain in the Buttttt). At least it's all clean now. heh.

[windellmc]

AEAddict - Kyosho diffs will drop in to the Hyper gear case but you need to use Kyosho pinion gears as the Hyper pinions are cut a little different. The way I understand it the Hyper also uses small diffs like the Kyosho. I haven't seen a Kyosho diff next to a Hyper diff yet so I can't say for sure but I know you can swap the Kyosho into the Hyper if you want to try the Kanai diffs for instance.

[OldskoolGT]

Hi all,

I finally got the Kyosho Universals (for the 7.5). I supposedly got the ones for the rear (can't really tell because they came in an unmarked plastic bag) and they are several millimeters longer than the front CVDs of the Hyper 7. The extra length makes them not really suited for use in the front end of the H7 because you can't achieve full steering lock when the suspension is fully compressed. The effect is kinda like reallly bad bump steer. They do look like they will work perfectly in the rear however. So disregard my earlier post about using the rear Kyosho universals for the front of the H7.


Now regarding the stuff about the Hyper 7 being an exact clone of the Kyosho 7.5, the Kanai Edition II is actually becoming a little bit Hyper-like with its "new" style shielded C-hubs. At a big Las Vegas race (I think the 2002 Silver State), Yuichi Kanai borrowed the H7 C-hubs from the Ofna pit, ran them on his car and liked them so much he put them in the KEII.

[dlandsv]

I have an old Ofna HODR with universals. Those are 2 piece. This means it's possible to cut the dog-bone end to length (shorten) and then reinsert into the universal end if needed

Are you saying the Kyosho universals units are one piece so it's not possible to shorten the dogbone end to the same length as the Ofna H7 cva's?.

Thanks for the previous info, however.

[dlandsv]

I got the optional CNC front and rear alum holders.
Part #s 19305,19306,19307.

Nice touch with quality and design and cheaper than those for my Worlds II. About $17 a piece.

They are drilled with set screws to lock the hinge pin and lessen the chance of the hinge pin to work loose if the hinge pin clip gets knocked off.

Anybody know where I can get titanium hinge pins and turn buckles?

Nothing from my Worlds II fits. All different lengths for the turn buckles.

Or do I have to just order the size by length from Lunsford?

[OldskoolGT]

dlandsv,

The Kyosho universals are a "one piece" design and can't be shortened, or taken apart (easily).

I don't think anyone makes a complete titanium turnbuckle set for the H7 yet. I have some Lundsfords on the rear of my H7. I forgot what length they are, but they are slightly longer than stock, and there is no need to trim them despite the extra length.

Do the your new CNC holders have the same geometry as the stock ones? I am in search of the hinge pin holders which reduce the anti-squat in the rear.

[dlandsv]

Oldskoolgt

thanks for the info.

The cnc hinge pins holders are identical (front and rear) to the stock plastic parts except for the addition of tapped holes for setscrews to hold the hinge pins. In addition the holes for the two bolts are tapped so you don't need the nylon nuts used with the stock pieces/bolts.

[HoBaoHOBO]

Does anyone know how much difference is in the front and rear CVA axles. I aquired a second parts car and have two new sets of CVAs. I know the part numbers are different, but has anyone tried to measure or tried the substitution. Just wondering before I break down two cars for a measurement.

Thanks

[dlandsv]

That's an interesting idea (if new cva's from other Ofna's will fit and the price is right (on e bay)).

[OldskoolGT]

HOBO,

The rear CVDs are about .10" longer than the fronts IIRC.

Regarding the Kyosho universals,

I think Kyosho front and rear universals are the same length, so I would advise against sticking Kyosho univerals in the front of the Hyper if you have the stock knuckles. I think in order to use the Kyosho universals in the Hyper and get full steering lock, you need Kyosho steering knuckles too.

[hardcoretmaxx]

whats up guys, hey I was wandering what are some good tires that will last a long time I'm thinking about getting some dirty hairys or some TRC bulldogs what woud you guys think a good tires and what do you think of those 2

[OldskoolGT]

Hey all,

I just got the Ofna 1-piece pipe to replace the stocker, and let me just say this. If you are running the stock pipe, ditch it and get something else. I haven't put too many miles on the new pipe yet, but the performance difference between the new pipe and stock pipe is pretty significant. There is more low end punch now, and the engine seems to get "on the pipe" much sooner than before. Only thing I don't like is the sound, I think the stock pipe was more distinctive. The pipe also had to be modified a bit clear the fuel tank since it is a "1 piece" design, but it is a very easy mod.

hardcoretmaxx,

For general purpose use, I don't think the Dirty Harry's would be suitable. Consider Crime Fighters instead. Trinity literally stole the Treadz brand of tires from Richard Saxton for their new TRC tires, so I won't ever reccomend or buy any Trinity product from now on.

You might also want to consider Ofna Whoops II tires. These seem to work well on my favorite track (hard packed with loose stuff on top), and wear extremely well.

[hardcoretmaxx]

what are the dirty hairys good for I have hear that there a good alaround tire and last long and I have heard that the Crime Fighters don't last long I want something that will work really good in gravel and grass and a little sand/dirt

[windellmc]

You may want to get the Ofna knobby tires for just bashing around. They are the tires that come in the MBX kit.

[OldskoolGT]

hardcoretmaxx,

I have never tried Dirty Harrys. People have told me that that tire is for hard packed conditions. I have a set of XTR Crime Fighters, and they are wearing very well.

You might also consider the Bowties in the XTR compund too. Supposed to last longer than the Crime Fighter, but the traction is not quite as good.

The tires windellmc spoke of are Onfa Excels. A very good tire for general prupose bashing.

[hardcoretmaxx]

alright then what a good tire for gravel I live on a gravel road and I go on my grass alot

[HoBaoHOBO]

I have a set of Dirty Harrys and I'll tell you what:

THINGS I LIKE:
1. Super Grip in low grip situations. If there is no loose sand or grit on a hard slick as s**t track, they will hook up.

2. Great Acceleration in High Grip Situations. They will not spin when you take off from the start line if there is a medium to high level of grip.

3. Cornering in low grip. These things will make your buggy look like late model modified going around a corner. They find the right balance of grip vs. spin and your car goes a different direction than its aiming so you can coner on rails.

4. they are light and thin. These tires are a little thinner and lighter with a lower profile than other tires, so you loose a little topspeed, but you add to your jump and mogul clearing (just hope there's no breeze because you loose inertia to level your car in the air).

5. Steering. These tires will hold a line like madness just go into the straight and let go of the steering they will straighten out immediately.



THINGS I DO NOT LIKE

1. Too much grip. You cannot punch through the corners unless it is super slick, these tires will bite and you will cartwheel.

2. Too much grip. You cannot slice through a corner off on the throttle and slide the buggy's rear end around. It just wont happen and you will probably flip.

3. Too light. These tires are thinner than most and you have a harder time air controlling.

4. Weak sidewalls. I've sliced two tires already in the same place on the sidewall. It seems to be from the rubber shifting on acceleration.

5. Steering. Unless you are drag racing(going straight), these tires will fight you to steer and like to push due to grip.

If you spin the rear tire to run against the tread, it helps everything out a heapin lot.

These tires are defineately set up for low grip situations, if there is even a slight traction I won't use these. You will love them on the straight and hate them in the coners otherwise. Its best to leave these in the box and then break them out when the track gets super dry and slick and no one can stay a straight line and your pins just wanna donut. I match these with the x-pins and thr RTRs and can find a tire for the day most of the time.


I would recommend the RTR equals trad for gravel, but no tire is going to last long in gravel. Also, protect your flywheel because rocks will get between the flywheel and the chassis and kill your engine.

[hardcoretmaxx]

I live on a gravel road with a bunch of rocks some big some really small what would be good for that

[hardcoretmaxx]

some are like 1 1/2 inchs big and the other ones are like less then a 1/2 and inch and then when it gets really dry out for a long period of time it gets a little sand in there no a lot just a little and I want some its that would be good for jumping and leveling out in the air what tire would be best for this stuff

[windellmc]

I have a set of Dirty Harrys and they seem to never work as well as a Crimefighter in the same conditions. They have a fair amount of on-power steering but overall they feel squirrelly on straights and when the car is unsettled. A tip I did get for them was to cut out the center dashes unless you are running them on blue-groove. They seem a lot like a GRP Atomic.

[hardcoretmaxx]

so whats the best tire for all around, that will last a long time and have good control in the air

[hardcoretmaxx]

protect your flywheel because rocks will get between the flywheel and the chassis and kill your engine.
how am I supose to do that I have a RZ v01b

[dlandsv]

Make sure the stone guards are in good shape.

Make sure the body fits tightly and lets in minimal debris from front tires back into and under the lexan body.

Tape off the open chassis slot where you bump start the engine flywheel.

Tape off the open chassis slot which exposes the main spur gear.

When you refuel, take off the body and tip and shake the debris from the chassis.

hth

[OldskoolGT]

Hi all,

I just tried the center torsen out today and really really liked the additional traction that it provided. The buggy seems to accelerate much harder now since more power is being sent to the rear wheels, instead of wasting much of it spinning the fronts. In fact, it seems like I was able to go around the track at just as fast as before with much less throttle, so perhaps fuel economy will increase since less fuel is being wasted in useless wheelspin. Only downside was that there was quite a bit of push since I don't have a front torsen. So despite having a more diff oil than my LHS (seriously), I think I am gonna buy a front torsen and try to adapt my driving to torsen diffs because the added traction is worth it.


hardcoretmaxx,

I think we are all out of tire suggestions for you. No buggy tires are designed for gravel, so would just look for something with large wide knobs for maximum durability in the gravel.

[hardcoretmaxx]

like the Ofna Pulsar II

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

what weight of silicone are you guys using in the front and rear diff case?
thanx for helping me out:)

[hardcoretmaxx]

alright I'm getting either those dirty hairys or those crimefighters what do you guys think is better for just bashin around and will last longer

[dlandsv]

Which air filter are you using for H7 Pro?

I thought it would be best to upgrade to a better air filter so I purchased the big orange RB triple filter (3 liners). But it's too big and won't fit under the body properly, unless I cut a hole in the lexan body. I would prefer not to do that.

Even the H7 purple stock air filter seems too big and touches the linkage if I install an outer liner on it.

So far, it appears the smaller blue Ofnas fit the best.

All three if using a 90 degree elbo press almost into the steering and throttle linkage (so much so with the RB filter, that I am not even going to attempt to use it).

I tried an old short straight K&N , but not so sure if the cotton filter is the best, compared to the foam on other designs. It is one of the first K&N buggy filters so maybe they have improved the design. The rubber piece which connects to carb throat doesn't fit very well and appears to leak in dust. Anybody know anything about the latest version of the K&N?

I do use a K&N wet air filter on my 98 Z28 and haven't seen any dust patterns develop back of the filter as some Z28 owners users have noted with a K&N.

I know the car issue isn't related, but both K & N filters, the RC filter and the one in my Z are identical they way they are constructed.

The motor in the H7 is a Paris Top BT 21 SBK01 and don't want to ruin it (scored liner) as has happened with my Pico P5 where I was using the K&N.

I already use an RB air filter on my Worlds II and it fits OK because the body sits higher on the chassis and so more room.

Any ideas or other possibilties?

TIA

[dlandsv]

To OldskoolGt or others who might be interested.

Lunsford now has a titanium turnbuckle kit for the H7

#2482 Ofna Hyper 7 Titanium turnbuckle Kit $56.50
Kit includes: 1 - 3mm x 1 1/8" turnbuckle
2 - 4 x 40mm turnbuckles
2 - 5 x 30mm turnbuckles
2 - 5 x 60mm turnbuckles


Kyosho stock steering knuckles....

I asked in a previous post if they are a direct bolt in. Just installed them and they are except for one minor difference.

The minute difference between the two is that the Kyosho has about 1-2 mm of additional material where the screw which holds the tie rod attaches (end of the steering knuckle). In addition, the hole is tapped, so suspect the additional material is extra material for the screw in seat in compared to the H7 knuckle where a nylon nut is required under the turnbuckle to attach to the screw.

The casting quality for the Kyosho units appears to be better than the stock cast H7s (no hairline cracks in the casting).

Guess time will tell, if the king pin screw pulls out on a hard crash.

FYI...tie rod ends

The plastic tie rods ends are not available yet as replacements. So if you break one and can't find a substitute from another buggy it's wait until Ofna gets them in.

They were to be included in the package of materials (Part # 19055) Ball ends, steering)) replacement parts but weren't packaged correctly, so Ofna has back-ordered them.

hth

[OldskoolGT]

dlandsv,

Check out the Mugen air filter (see pic below). The rubber elbow doesn't stick out much after it makes the 90 degree bend, so the air filter sits much closer to the engine head. Only downside of the Mugen filter is that there are no pre-filters availiable for it. It fits inside the body and requires no window cutting. I actually use the stock filter with an Ofna pre-filter over it and let it stick slightly out of the window (that I cut out). I also cut out the other window, rear window, and 1/2 of the front windshield to give the engine more ventillation, which seems to have worked because my engine makes a lot of power under 230 degrees in the Texas heat.

I would never stick a K&N filter on any engine of mine. They do a very poor job of filtering, and the gauze is very thin, so a small cut on the filter could allow a tremendous amount of dirt in.

Regarding the Lundsford turnbuckle set, I think that 40 mm is too short for the steering turnbuckles, 45 mm would be the right size. I have a set of their 40 mm turnbuckles, but I don't use them because I am sort of concerned (and too lazy to install them) that they will pull out of the tire rod easier than the stock ones because there is slightly less metal going into the tie rod ends.

And finally, thanks for mentioning the problem with part #19055. I ordered some and was wondering why there were no tie rods included.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

hmm... i have a feeling i am getting ignored... :(

please help me with the diff fluid.. thanx guys!:)

[OldskoolGT]

NMT_RACER_BOY,

For the front diff, 3000 or 5000 wt oil is used. For the center diff, use 7000 or 10,000 wt oil. And for the rear, use 1000 wt oil, automotive gear oil, or grease.

[moep]

OldskoolGT is almost right,
but you should use Oil with 3000/7000/1000 Cps (also known as #3000/#7000/1000#) instead of 3000/7000/1000 WT.

Here's a - for me incredible useful - Copy&Paste from Chad Bradley over at Sgrid.com:



What I have found out with playing with the diffs is this........

Front diff
light oil, like 3000 allows the car to turn in harder but it can push
comming out of the corners (while on throttle) because it will just
spin the inside tire instead of pulling it out.

thick oil, like 7000 or more can make the car push going into a corner
but you'll notice more on trottle steering because it will give equal
power to both front tires.

med oil, like 5000 is best starting wt. i run this about 90% of the time

Mid diff
light oil, like 5000 or less will make the car feel more like a front
wheel drive because in reality thats were most of the power is going.
Which can help out on loose tracks. but can make it harder to clear
jumps were you need acceleration to clear.

thick oil, like 10,000 will put more power to the rear which can make
the car feel loose but you will gain more acceleration.

med oil, like 7000 is the best starting wt.

Rear diff
this one is a little more confusing and i having found all the answers
on what everything does, I know that Adam Drake runs his gas truck
diffs almost locked and he says that helps with straight traction and I
can kind of see how this can work because his tires are spinning at a
simmilar speed and not just diffing out the whole time. and I can see
this carring over to 1/8 also.

I have noticed that 1000 will work about 95% of the time, try going to
3000 or 5000 and see what it does. I know that Saxton swears by grease
diffs which is really light. this is something i want to test along
with the new BBF diffs. I'll post as soon as i test them out.

[dlandsv]

Oldskool

Thanks for the info on the Airfilters.

I agree on the quality of the K&N air filter and will probably never use again until/unless they change their design.

I think I have temporarily solved the AirFilter height problem for the H7. I use the stock Ofna filter, wrapped with the pre-filter from the HB air filter kit.

I went thru a bag of old parts and found an OS short 45 degree elbo which drops the height of the filter at least 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

I'm not sure, but suspect these elbows came with an old OS RXB 21 (where the air filter is paper and huge).

I like the design of the Mugen with the protective plastic around the foam filter.

You might try the inner filter (if same diameter) from the RB kit to install in your Mugen filter. There are two foam air filters for each RB filter (Outer, inner). I have noted, however, that the additional spare inners filters, don't have the same diameter (smaller) as the inner foam that come preinstalled with the filter. Only thing I can figure is that they expand after installion on the filter itself.

Some say the RB foam quality (not as dense) isn't as good as the Kyosho or Mugen filters, however.

hth

[OldskoolGT]

dlandsv

I also have a Kyosho air filter and IMHO the foam is dense to the point that it is overly restrictive compared to the Ofna or Mugen filters.

Moep,

Thanks for posting the info from Chad Bradley. I was wondering how I could solve the understeer I was having while on the throttle.

And just a note to everyone on spare parts:

I broke a rear upright and had a differential bearing (the ones that support the ouddrives) explode while racing this past weekend. I don't exactly know when I broke the upright but it might have been during the time my car cartwheeled down nearly the entire length of the straightaway.

[hardcoretmaxx]

I think I'm just going to get those dirty hairys m2's

[Herpetologist]

Well, 1/8th plus trees don't mix. I broke my front bottom arm and bent the upper arm, so I need some new ones for my hyper 7. The problem is no one has them in stock from the places I checked, tower and omni. Horizon as of now is off line for maintence. Does anyone know where I can get some or can anyone get them for me from there LHS? All I have is a halfway run hobbytown that stocks hardly any parts, none of which for ofna. Really need help. Thanks in advance guys,
Dustin

[Herpetologist]

Yes! Horizon hobby is back up and they had them in stock. They are on the way.
Dustin

[dlandsv]

I order replacement parts for the H7 from Nitro House.

http://www.nitrohouse.com/

It's my understanding both Nitro House and Ofna are on the same street or in same building as Ofna (check the addresses of both). If Nitrohouse doesn't have the parts, then they walk over and get it from Ofna.

Any order over $60 is discounted 15%. They ship either FedEx or UPS.

For example: Part # 19307 CNC Holder, Rear Alum, bottom (option part) is $19.95 or $16.96 with 15% discount.

As info, I have all three of the CNC hinge pin option parts. Quality appears to be very good. Each piece is tapped with a set screw to hold the hinge pin (additional security in case the hinge pin clip gets knocked off).

hth

[OldskoolGT]

Hey guys,

How long should I expect the stock clutch to last?

I have about 4-6 gallons through mine, and the engine doesn't have nearly the amount of punch that it used to. The engine seems to run pretty well still, so I am thinking that the maybe clutch is slipping too much now? TIA.

[AEAddict]

Hey OldschoolGT... what engine R U runnin man?

My friend's V01B has almost 5 gallons through it, and his still keeps up right with my 1 1/2-2 gallon V01B.....

[OldskoolGT]

Hey AE,

Like almost everybody else, I am running a RB WS7. Last weekend it got overheated though (inexperienced pit man was using temp gun wrong) and got run on the track at 300+ degrees before it lost power and quit running. The engine still idles well, doesn't flame out, and seems to have the same compression as before the incident, so that's why I thought it might be the clutch. I might just order a new CMB Raptor and a new Ofna 4 shoe clutch set, then I won't have to worry about the engine or clutch.

I just discovered that my rear ring and pinion are slipping because some serious grinding occured there when that one bearing blew out. So that also might be the cause of my buggy slowness. Kinda sux that a cheap bearing failure caused so much damage. Still want that new engine though :)

[AEAddict]

Dang dude. Yeah.. seems like everyone runs a darn WS7... lol.

I chose the O.S route... because of my friend... that convinced me thorough;y that O.S rules. He has SEVEN GALLONS though his original O.S CV ... ok.. doesn't ever clean the car/engine, and never puts after-run in it. The darn thing still drives just fine, and it'll idle all day long, and still runs strong. That's what convinced me good! hehe.

Sucks that U had a bearing go out man. Had that happen on my T3 before, and that in turn destroyed my outdrives, Hub, CVA, everything. lol.

ANyway... good luck on the clutch. Take it apart, and if it's SHINY you know you need a new clutch-bell, or just scruff it up good with some sandpaper.

[dlandsv]

Oldskool

Since you think you may have overheated the p/s in your WS7, have your heard of this or if you have, are you considering pinching the p/s from the WS7? Don't know, but have read that if any engine can take the heat, it's the RB's and NR's.

All of the posts on this thread swear by it?

http://www.rc-racing.com/cgi-bin/backtalk

The reason why I am asking is because I have one OS RXB and three Picos (one P5 and two P6s) and would like to try it to see if it works.

Second question?

Ever tried the sliding cluch? I believe it's an option item used by the GS Team. They say that once you get converted, you will never go back to a 3 shoe clutch?

Sorry to hear about the blown bearing. It's my understanding the diff and case in the H7 are nearly indestructable. An ideas other than just a defective bearing? Or might it possibly be due to the extra loads on the rearend because of the center torsen diff you are running (most power goes to the diff with most traction which in most cases is always the rear...therefore the rear is getting most of the power and the load).

tia

[OldskoolGT]

dlandsv,

I plan on sending my sleeve to that osrocket fellow for a squeezin after I get another P/S set. Brass is quite malleable, so I don't see why the squeeze wouldn't work.

I have never heard of the sliding clutch, but I am really glad you mentioned it because I plan on buying one now. From what I have read on the web, that clutch works very well, and there's no more messing with those little clutch springs. I believe the sliding clutch is made by Fiorini and distributed by GS.

I will probably never know what caused that bearing failure, but these buggies take such a brutal beating that its not unexpected for stuff like this to happen.

[dlandsv]

FYI to anyone interested

Received a reply from OFNA today that they are sending me the missing plastic balls ends which should have been packaged with Ofna part # 19055/manual part# 87055. Apparently a packaging error for this part # which did not include all of the pieces and no other way to order as the pieces don't have their own number.

I sent an email to Ofna asking if I had to have the vendor (NitroHouse) send them to me or if Ofna would send them.

According to email Ofna is sending them.

So if you have ordered the part# and your didn't include the plastic ball ends, you might do as I have done (email Ofna) or have your LHS do it for you.

In addition:

As a precaution, I ordered the Kyosho steering knuckles since I have heard the stock knuckles (king pin screws) might strip out.

Not knowing if I might lose some hardware if that were to occur, I tried to order the metal bushing and screws for the steering knuckles from Ofna.

These parts are not a separate item. To get the metal bushings for the king pins and the king pin screws, you have to order the steering knuckle kit.

The screws are easy to find and replace. It's the 4 metal king pin bushings I was worried about losing.

Screw Kit

http://www.hexcrews.com/

Received the screw kit. Kit is OK, but missing the big items such as the long screws for the diff cases (front and rear).

Other than that, every other screw appears to be in the kit ($30 for 165 screws).

Don't know if the hardness (grade 8) is any harder than stock other than they say they are.

Will post their reply, if they answer, why the 8 long big screws aren't included in the kit.

hth

[OldskoolGT]

at least for a little while

I replaced the rear ring and pinion gears, and scuffed the inside of the clutch bell and my buggy drives fine again.

Unfortunately, only 4 laps into yesterdays practice session, the gears in my steering servo stripped for what appeared to be no reason at all. The servo was a JR 8450 digital servo, and it lasted a whopping 2 weeks. Even my Hitec's lasted longer than that. So far I have broken 4 servos in the buggy now, 3 Hitec 5925s and 1 JR 8450. I guess perhaps I should try buying more expensive servos, cause these cheap $85 and $115 servos don't seem to hold up. LOL

[HP7]

Oldskool,

Sorry to here about the servo problems but, I was wondering about the engine you are running WS7. I was looking at it on the internet and wondering what kind of performance you got out of it as compared to the OS 21?

[OldskoolGT]

Yo HP7,

I think the S7/WS7 is similar in power to the OS V-01B. I have heard that the V-01B has a stronger bottom end, while the S7 has more power on top. Both engines are really good, and were the only 2 types of engines in the A-Main of this years Silver State race. However, after seeing a buggy with a Collari-Pico XS2200 on the track, I now feel the need for more power. The Collari powered buggy had UNREAL power, it blew by other buggies like they were powered by anemic .12 engines. Now improving my driving would probably be the key to faster lap times, but it would be easier just to put a new CMB Raptor engine in. :D

[dlandsv]

Oldskoolgt

Rap on wood (my head), but I've never stripped or broken a servo (all Futubas...all in Ofna 1/8 buggies).

On one buggy I hit so hard I shared both screws right out of the bottom of the servo saver posts, broke the front diff case, and an a arm, but no damage to the servo.

However, the Hyper 7 is the only buggy I own where it's possible to adjust the tension spring on the server saver. I found I had mine set way too tight to start on the H7 and backed it off a few turns, but haven't bashed it as hard as my Worlds II to break anything yet.

Are you sure you don't have it set too tight. Sounds as if your servo is taking all of the shock rather than the cams twisting on the servo saver (which should absorb all of the shock and destructive energy). The tighter the spring, the less chance of the cams twisting.

************************

How big a dent in my bank account if I get one those bad boy raptors you speak of? Also if I get a modified special order motor, how easy is it to get replacement parts (p/s or rod if needed)?

tia

[OldskoolGT]

dlandsv,

The servo saver on my buggy is set as loose as possible. I think the real problem is the plastic gears in JR's servo. I don't know why any company would make a servo with 180 oz of torque with plastic gears. Fortunately one of the Hitecs that I thought was broken is actually OK (turned out to be a weird radio problem) so I will have at least one backup servo for this weekends racing.

I plan to buy a CMB Raptor from Ashford Hobbies for $270. Thats supposed to be only $20 over cost. I have no idea about the modified engines and their parts availiability. But now that you mentioned them, maybe I will just spend a bit more and go for the MAC modified. :)

I honestly have no idea how powerful the CMB engine is, I just plan on trying one out because a couple of guys in this bulletin board are quite impressed with them. I also like the novel piston/sleeve design which doesn't rely on pinch like regular engines.

[HP7]

OldskoolGT, dlandsv,

Ace Hardware Hobbies have them also, but at $290.

[OldskoolGT]

I'd rather drive a Crono than have to order stuff from Ace again. They have managed to screw up my order every single time I have bought stuff from them.

[HP7]

Thanks OldskoolGT, I'll think twice befroe I order anything from them.

[HP7]

Hi Guys,

I was trying to find who sold clear bodies for the hyper 7.
I have been looking around and can't seem to find one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[dlandsv]

Ofna has clear replacement bodies for the H7. NitroHouse which is next door can send you one. They are kind of pricey, however, $45 for the body. This includes the colored sheet of decals. NitroHouse just sent me a replacement body for the H7 Pro. It originally came with two sheets of decals. Colored and black and silver. But the replacement only came with on sheet of decals (the colored red,black and yellow, not the silver and black). You would think for $45 both sheets of decals would be included.

Trinity, ProLine and Andys also sell bodies. Each should fit or be close enough to fit with some additional trimming.

The ProLine Crowd Pleaser is thicker lexan than the stock body ($26). It will fit on either the Worlds II or H7 ( I have both buggies and the body)

The Trinity body has open cowling to allow more air ducting to the motor.

I suspect the Storm body or Ofna 9.5 will fit also.

Ron at NitroHouse should be able to answer if the 9.5 and Pro 7 bodies are compatible as NitroHouse sells both. All he would have to do to stick one body inside the other or vice versa to check if the bodies match. It's not rocket science or time consuming.

But if you are going to show the car in contests, then the stock body would be preferred.

hth

[HP7]

Thanks dlandsv. I was crusin the internet and didn't know if those other bodies would fit or not. Your right about the price though. What is a person to do, when you need one you need one. Thanks again:)

[OldskoolGT]

oops double post

[OldskoolGT]

Hey all,

Its kinda slow in here, so I thought I would post some pics of my favorite buggy.

[OldskoolGT]

Here's my custom splash guard I made from a torque wrench package. Its held onto the fuel tank with Shoe Goo. I like it more than the stock splash guard because it doesn't get in the way like the stock one when removing the center diff.

[OldskoolGT]

I ground off some of the material on the bulkhead brace to get a few more degrees of steering so the buggy has the same amount of steering both ways. I also ground off the steering stops on the 17 degree C-hubs, which severely increase the turning radius.

[dlandsv]

Looks like you have a Pro. Any reason why you elected to install the plastic wing braces rather than the aluminum?

When you going to install the raptor?

FYI

Ofna sent the ball joint ends from Ofna Part # 19055 which were missing in orginal packaging. Packaging appears to be correct now.

Send them an email if you haven't done so.

[OldskoolGT]

And here is the radio box which I cut a hole in the top to make crystal changes easier. The RX battery pack I use is the Ofna Brick Pack, which is sitting inside the radio box, underneath the receiver. I cut a hole in the side of the RX box for the battery pack wires to exit. The Brick Pack is lighter than other 5-cell packs, and putting it inside the RX box lowers the center of gravity and puts a good deal of weight closer to the center of the buggy (polar moment of inertia stuff I think).

[OldskoolGT]

dlandsv,

I use the plastic wing braces because I think they are a few grams lighter than the aluminum ones. No point in putting a heavier part on the buggy, especially up that high. An Ofna team driver that I know also uses the plastic braces on his buggy, and he is super careful when it comes to weight (Ti screws everywhere).

I haven't decided which CMB engine to buy yet. At first I wanted the Raptor, but it appears that alot of people are running the LSI Buggy engine. And then there's the MAC modified engines which are only $120 more. I gotta call Reid RC sometime and get some engine advice before buying.

[dlandsv]

In theory, you might be right, but the batteries hanging out where originally designed might be for balance and to compensate for the motor weight on the other side.

With some of the engines getting bigger and taller heads this not only raises the center of gravity on the engine side but also creates more weight on engine side.

Another option would be to flipflop the batteries and receiver case. If that were done we could use 1700 mh double a's and really have some run time. Double a's are too tall to fit now.

A plastic case sitting right next to the drive shaft where you just drop in the 5 pack and screw down the top cover would be nice and all weight would be almost centered on the chassis. In fact the rear chassis brace and a 5 pack battery holder could bolt together.

I guess the way to tell though how the weight distributes on each wheel is to make a tweak board with scales like the Nascar crowd uses.

Have you ever noticed, some of the european 1/8 scale buggies just use 4 cells . What's up with that?

But heck, I need to learn how to driver better before I even have to worry about weight distribution yet.

[Dnmeistr]

From the description on Tower it reads that the Hyper 7 and Pro have smaller tires (3.2) than the 9.5 (4.5). Is that right or is that just a typo. Will 9.5 tires fit on the Hyper wheels, not that I want to do this, just curious.

Dnmeistr

[OldskoolGT]

Dnmeistr,

I would assume that is a typo since there is an accepted standard 1/8 buggy tire size.


dlandsv,

I too have thought about the balance issue, and I am guessing that the buggy probably is unbalanced since the engine, the pipe which hangs way off the side, and fuel tank weigh considerably more than 2 servos a RX, and a RX pack. Despite this, the wear on the bottom of the chassis is fairly even, unlike my RC10GT which has significant wear on one side. I guess I will try adding some weight where the battery pack normally goes to see if the buggy turns right better.

Those Europeans baffle me with their version of 1/8 scale buggy racing, which is frequently done on tracks with absolutely no jumps made of artificial turf. Just give me monster jumps and dirt and I am a happy racer.

[dlandsv]

DNMiester

I think its safe to say all tires will fit, as I have wheels and tires all the way back to the original Pirate M1 ('92-'93 years).

There is only one set of wheels (from the Pirate) which don't fit and that is if I leave the front ball type suspension on my Worlds II (it's due to the offset and ribbing inside the rims which rubs on the larger ball type housings). The Pirate wheels fit on the H7 and WII with c-style hubs.

I have seen some posts where its mentioned something about the 9.5 wheels being different (which could be related to same issue...ribbing inside of wheel and not enough offset).

I've also mounted but not run the larger HODR Blazer truck wheels and tires on the H7. These wheels and tires fit on the both WII and H7 as well. The front tires will quickly destroy the front of the body however unless you trim, trim, trim. It's a blast to stick the larger tires and run the WII buggy though because there is an least a 1/2 inch more clearance.

FYI

I measured the ball type suspension from the Worlds II and if one were to cut off an 1/8-1/4 where the a arms attach to the hinge pins it appears that the ball type could be mounted on the H7. That being the case there shouldn't be too much tooling at HoBoa if they decide to upgrade to that style with the next version (H8...maybe).

Whether that will make the Mugen folks shudder....don't know.

I think there is finally parity now between the H7/9.5/Mugen and Kyosho. But, it would be nice if OFNA would promote development of the H7 or 9.5 car as Mugen and Kyosho have with their buggies (each of their buggies has a development life of at least 5 years) to stay competitive.

[rcboy618]

there's a hyper8 in the works right now....just thought you guys would like to know.

[MarNaDaKi]

I just read in another forum (where all the big boys are) that the Hyper 8 should not be out before december ... :(

[OldskoolGT]

dlandsv,

Well, it looks like I won't be getting that CMB Raptor because I just ordered another Arby's WS7 (just in time for this weekend's racing). I didn't want to have to spend more money on a CMB compatible exhaust system. And it seems like a better idea to have interchangable parts between my engines. Also, the guy I spoke to about the Raptor told me that it would not be a step up in power over the S7. For the new engine, I am gonna try the Ofna 4 shoe clutch setup.

[superman_xxxt]

Just got my hyper 7 pro. this is my third kit so I am familiar with the general stuff. Does anyone remember something they wish they have done that was not in the original directions?

[dlandsv]

One thing which I don't recall is very clear or is pointed out in the instructions are that the cva joints are different lengths. I believe the shorter ones go to the front.

Also, the nuts which attach the hex nut holding the wing on have to be pressed up into the plastic, otherwise they will turn and no way to hold them, but if you press and push them up into the plastic, you can tighten them up.

Another is that I had to drill out the eyelets on the brake adjustment arms because the pull shafts would catch and not slide easily because the eyelet is too small.

I use the brake adjustment kit off the Worlds II which allows you to adjust brake tension with a thumbscrew.

After you glue the brake pads and they are dry, drill out the holes if pad alignment is off. The shoes slide back and forth better or insert shortened pen springs between the shoes as is done on the 9.5.

Order a set of steering knuckles from Kyosho ($12) and keep the originals for spares (but you probably will never need them if you install the Kyoshos instead).

hth

[superman_xxxt]

Just got my hyper 7 pro. this is my third kit so I am familiar with the general stuff. Does anyone remember something they wish they have done that was not in the original directions?

[OldskoolGT]

superman_xxxt

Before putting the shocks together, I would drill out the pistons with a #54 bit. And don't bother with the purple springs, they are much too soft. Also cut the steering stops down if you are going to run the 17 degree C-hubs. You might also want to boil the wheels before mounting the tires to reduce the chances of breaking them.

On the diffs, use some plumbers teflon tape on the little set screw, and use RTV sealant or silicone on the ring gear to keep the diff fluid from leaking out.

[superman_xxxt]

I went ahead and got the Dynamite Steering knuckles. they are a direct fit for the hyper 7. When I put the steering knuckle together and tighten the two m4 screws, the steering is very stiff. I have verified they I am putting it together per the instruction manual. I even put one of the stock steering knuckles in and got the same result. In any other kit the steeing knuckle is held on with a pin. What am I doing wrong?

[WFO]

I am selling my hyper 7 pro buggy witha delta force T8 motor.
I have only made 6 laps at my local track after break in this car is like brand new.

has torsen center diff , 1 5925 digital steering servo,jr z 250 throttle servo,xxl rec. 1100 mah rec. pack ,has pro-line crime fighters and an extra set of new rims/tires, extra wheel hubs. ofna car case .You add a transmitter and its ready to go !

$450 shipped

let me know if any interest i have pics

[dlandsv]

The steering on mine was too tight for this reason.

The kingpin screw goes thru a metal bushing housed in the 17/19/22 C-Hub and get screwed into the steering knuckle.

I mistakenly put blue on the screw rather than pouring some into the treads on the steering knuckle. As a result the blue rubbed off onto the inside of the bushing and onto the kingpin shaft which hardened and caused too little freeplay between the shaft of the kingpin and the bushing.

I cleaned it off both and reinstalled correctly. Now steering is very free.

hth

[superman_xxxt]

I solved the steering problem. I decided to try the 20 deg carriers and they worked just fine. It seems that the stock 17 deg carriers are made wrong. THe hole that the bushing fist in is very tight, and the thickness of the carrier where the bushing goes thru is to thick. This caused the bushing to be pinced between the knuckle and the plastic carrier. I think the 20 deg carriers will work better anyway.

[superman_xxxt]

It seems that I am missing some screws from the kit, they are the M3-20 that hold the rear shock tower shock mounts on. Did anyone else have missing screws in the kit?

[HP7]

OldskoolGt

What glow plug are you using in your WS7?

[OldskoolGT]

HP7,

I am using McCoy's #8s in my WS7. Its in the mid 90s here, so I decided to switch to a cooler plug over the #6 stock plug.

[HP7]

Originally posted by OldskoolGT
HP7,

I am using McCoy's #8s in my WS7. Its in the mid 90s here, so I decided to switch to a cooler plug over the #6 stock plug.

OldskoolGT

Thanks for the answer. I was going to order some but didn't know which one to get.

[Herpetologist]

I want to replace the engine in my hyper 7. This may seem stupid but I don't know the answer. I want to put an omega/picco .21 super comp buggy engine in it. The only thing is the slide carb is on the left side and I need it on the right for the hyper 7. Can I remove the carb and turn it around. Will this work OK? I noticed a lot of people run the O.S .21 rz-vo1b and I noticed the same "Problem" so there must be something I can do so the engine I want will work. Thanks in advance,
Dustin

[dlandsv]

Yes, you can turn the carb 180 degrees. A schematic of your engine should show which screw to loosen to turn the carb.

The important thing is to try to not score or damage the o-ring when inserting the carb back into the carb housing inlet on the engine. This o-ring is what seals the carb throat from air leaks.

A dab of oil on the o-ring helps when re-inserting the carb.

Use a high-quality hex head allen wrench or screwdriver when you loosen the screw the first time, and when re-tightening.

Sometimes the screw can be very tight, so you want to use a high quality tool to remove the screw.

Go here for carb basics.

http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/carburetor.asp

[Dnmeistr]

What pitch does Ofna use on there buggies for the spur and clutch bell, specifically the Hyper 7.

Dnmeistr

[superman_xxxt]

It seems that the CVD's on the pro version are to short. On set is longer than the other. If I put the long set in the rear and the short up front, then the fronts come out pretty easily. If I switch the same problem occurs. I took out the washer on the post on the end of the rear arm, which helped but did not solve the problem. The only other thing I can think to do is cut a 1/8 in. off the arm of the arms so the screw in end is closer. PLEASE HELP

[superman_xxxt]

After my initial post, I went thru the entire thread looking for cvd problems. It seems that I have the same problem as OldskoolGT. I have two different size cvd's. I think I will go to the LHS tonight and see about getting another set of the long cvd's. They have a hyper 7 in the box that they use for parts. I will also need to get another set of lower arms, because I went ahead and cut off 1/8 inch of the ends. It does solve the problem with the short CVD's but I am concerned about handeling problems. OldskoolGT are you happy with the 7.5 universals? or would you have rather had the correct cvd's. and how much where the 7.5 universals?

[dlandsv]

According to the instruction sheet (photocopy) included with the H7 Pro, the long cva swingshafts go to the rear.

And the short front ones will appear to be too short until you set camber to O degrees or less (negative camber...top of wheel slants inward).

At 0 degrees the dogbone sets as least 2-3mm inside of the dogbone cup. At full travel upward the dogbone moves in rather than out. At full travel downward its still 2-3 mm.

Are you sure you have set camber yet?

See settings at this site.

http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/docs/set_hyp7pb.jpg

FYI...price of Kysoho universals. About $45 a set. I've had some on order for over a month from this site. If you find some at another vendor post it here.

http://www.nationalrc.com/main_page.htm

hth

[superman_xxxt]

Yes, I set the camber at 0 deg with the wheels on and the cva's level. I thought that I had it correct until I took the buggy out to break in the motor. The first time I went to turn around with very small amount of throttle, the CVA started to come out. It poped itself back in. The next turn caused both CVA's to come out. In my opion the cva's should never come out with a zero camber. I even took out the washers that go on the purple rod ends, and still was to close for comfort. I am getting another set of the long cva's for the LHS tonight.

[OldskoolGT]

superman_xxxt,

Here's a pic of a front H7 CVD next to a Kyosho Universal (front and rear are the same length I think which is the same length as the H7 rear CVD. The Hyper 7 front CVDs are just a few millimeters shorter than the rear CVDs.

The Kyosho universals did not work for me, in the front. When at full compression and full wheel lock, the extra length would cause a bump steer-like effect.