Ofna Hyper 7 Forum v1.0

[OldskoolGT]

And one more thing, the overall length of a Hyper 7 front CVD is about 4.94".

[superman_xxxt]

I was able to get the a set of the longer CVD from the LHS. :D I also replaced the rear arms that I modified and put the aluminum spacers back in. Everthing looks good now. I do not think I will have a problem with my CVD's. The question still has not benn answered about why. I looked at the photo copy instructions like dlandsv said and it does state the long CVA's go in the rear and the short up front. My problem was the front short CVA's would come out. And that was with 3 deg negative camber. At zero camber the CVA's bearly staved in the slots. I don't underdstand why. Another thing is that the kit I got the set of long CVA's out of at the LHS. It had a set of short and a set of long.:confused:

[dlandsv]

I've looked the picture oldskool posted and it's hard to believe the the swingshaft is that short, because if you put the two cva swingshafts side by side (front and rear), the front is shorter by a few mm, not the nearly 1/2 inch as displayed in oldskool's picture.

A possibility for the discrepancy is if the the king pin holes in the 20 degree c hub are not drilled correctly or the king pin holes in the steering knuckle is off by 1/2.

To test one would install the standard 17 degree c hub to see if the swingshaft is still too short. I have the 17 degree c hubs installed and haven't tested the 20 or 22 degree for fit.

The other possibility is if the bearing depth in the steering knuckle is too deep or the king pin holes are not drilled correctly. If the holes are drilled outward in error, then the steering knuckle would also move outward making the cva swingshaft too short.

If the bearing depth in the steering knuckle is too deep the same would occur, but not likely because then the wheel hub would not match up correctly with the pin hole locking it the cva shaft.

I also measured the dogbone housing caps thinking the length might be different between front and rear. Both are the same length. I have a torsen in the front and the dogbone housing end came preinstalled. Each diff measured from dogbone housing end to end measured the same.

It might be that few owners install the 20 or 22 degree hubs, and it's their design which is off and why only there are only two posts indentifying the problem. All rtr's come with 17 degree hubs. The optional hubs aren't included with the rtr, so it would not be identified as a problem with the rtr's.

I would email Ofna and get an answer directly.

Send along the link to Oldskools picture.

It's a puzzler.

hth

[windellmc]

I'm running the 22 degree hubs with no problem although I do have the new front arms which are just a hair shorter than the originals. My CVAs fit in the drive cups pretty well.

[OldskoolGT]

superman_xxxt,

Just measure those front CVDs. If they are shorter than 4.94", then they are not for the Hyper 7. Your problem sounds exactly like the one I had. I had to send the CVDs to Ofna which then sent me the correct CVDs for the front of my buggy.

[superman_xxxt]

I will check the CVD's tonight. I will be returning the short CVD's to the LHS and he is going to send them back. When I tryed to use the 17 deg hubs I found I had a bad set of hubs. The problem was that the plastic part of the hub that the metal bushing goes thru was to thick. This caused the bushing to get pinched between the knuckle and the screw head. In turn the steering was being tighten down as the screw wad tightened. I switched to the 20 deg hubs and the problem went away. Sound like OFNA has a few quality control issues.

I broke in my OS .21 RZ-V01B last night. Man does that thing has some power. Even with very rich break-in carb settings the car was just a rocket. I had no problems from the CVD's or anything else. Can't wait to get it out on the track an Sat.

[windellmc]

My 17 degree hubs were the same way. I just didn't tighten the screws completely down. You need to use thread lock anyway. I was plesantly surprised when I put the 22 degree blocks on and could crank that bolt down.

[superman_xxxt]

true you could just use lock tight, but I would hate to trust lock tight to hold my steering together during a 20 min main.

[WHITESTER1]

Sorry guys, haven't been around in a long time. I still have been racing my Hyper 7 Pro. Haven't broken much, broke a shock shaft this past race. Track was super rough to say the least. Buggy held together well other than the massive slam from behind to break the shaft.

Here are some vids hope you enjoy. I'll have more in a couple weeks.

Hyper 7 pro, Blue body, yellow rims (http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/sprucewood5.wmv)

Pitstop... Then battle for posistion w/ Dave Henry (http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/sprucewood6.wmv)

A mistake by me, costs me a posistion. Trying to regain. (http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/sprucewood8.wmv)

[rcboy618]

damn that track looks like a big o dust bowl.

[WHITESTER1]

Originally posted by rcboy618
damn that track looks like a big o dust bowl.


The videos are from the 30 minute main. No matter how much water you would have added to an outdoor track like that, it would have still been dusty. You learn to deal with it, the dust was the least of my concerns. LOL

[superman_xxxt]

That has got to be the bumpies track I have ever seen. Looks like a lot of fun an a real big challenge.

[windellmc]

Superman - I'm surprised you can keep the hubs on the car for a single heat with no loctite.

[rcboy618]

Originally posted by WHITESTER1



The videos are from the 30 minute main. No matter how much water you would have added to an outdoor track like that, it would have still been dusty. You learn to deal with it, the dust was the least of my concerns. LOL

true. i just thought you guys ran it like that. with 1/8's it's still good when its dusty like that but for gas trucks it sucks.

[WHITESTER1]

This green and black buggy is a friends Hyper 7 Pro.

Here (http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/crc1.wmv)

[Mugen21]

Nice videos, keep them coming.

[superman_xxxt]

windellmc - I do use locktite, but I am also able to torque down on the screw.

This weekend I lost the bottom screw out the the left knuck twice. Both times it I used locktite and a health amount od toeque. I am not sure why it is happening. Any thoughts.

I also pulled one of the front turnbuckles out of the inside arm. Upon looking at it a couple of other Hyper driver noticed that my turnbuckes are not nearly as far in as thiers. I have about 4 threads showing on both sides of the center nut. All the other drivers had the turnbuckles all the way op to the nut. Everything else seemed to be the same. It is still a mystery. I am probable going to get some kyosho turnbuckles whick I found out are longer to put up front. I will need to cut them down, but I will be able to thread them all the way in the arms.

[WHITESTER1]

Superman...
I am using the Kyosho standard front knuckles. Haven't had a problem since I switched. I did have problems with the Ofna ones, that is why I switched. Seemed like no matter how hard I torqued down on the screws or how much thread lock I put on them. The screws kept coming out of the Ofna knuckles. So I made a switch.

[superman_xxxt]

I am using the dynamite knuckles for the storm(the red ones) Most of the other guys use these as well. The only thing I can figure is that the tollerance on the tapped hole is a little to lose. I also found out that the loctite I used on the seconf screw was most likley not set up.

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

Originally posted by WHITESTER1
Superman...
I am using the Kyosho standard front knuckles. Haven't had a problem since I switched. I did have problems with the Ofna ones, that is why I switched.

Are you talking about the standard cast MP7.5 knuckles? How are they working for you? had any troubles with them? I noticed that there really easy to strip of you overtighten the screws, so watch out for that.

Tell me whatever you can about them,
uDi

[_Burn0ut_]

Hi, im new to the 1/8th buggy scene but i really want to get a hyper 7 or hyper 7 pro but im debating on which one to get. I will mainly be bashing around but will be racing competetively on occasisions. Which one would be better for me, i have a a few years of nitro experience and have a .247 maxx and a .21 xt-r 3e and ive sold my n.sport so as i can buy a hyper 7 or hyper 7 pro, i started reading a few of the pages on this thread but i just skipped to this post. Could u guys give me some links and specs aswell as first hand pros and cons on the both plz. Also what sorta top speeds am i looking at?

Thanks

[superman_xxxt]

I would say the pro is the way to go. First off you get to build the kit. While this can be time consumung and somewhat frustrating, the benifite is that you know how the car works, how to fix things, what the the car should look like(is something wrong), and the knowing that it was done right. Second, you get to put you own motor. servos, and reciever in the car. Third you get to personalize the body any way you want. Fourth, the pro hop ups. I have not found any better place to get information about the pro than right here. If you run into problems, just ask a wuestion here and someone will likely know the answer. Here is a pic of my hyper

[superman_xxxt]

No Body

[superman_xxxt]

Here is the track I race at. JR's Race Place in Bryantowm, MD

[windellmc]

On tracks with jumps the bolts that hold my knuckles on also come out with the original knuckles and the machined ones. It doesn't matter how tight they are or how the loctite is applied. The only thing I haven't tried is red loctite, the kind you have to use heat to remove.

Here is what I think the problem is. If you look at the Kyosho knuckles you can see that rib that runs across the top and bottom of the knuckle. I think that the Hyper knuckles are too thin there and the hole will actually flex open just a hair when landing hard jumps (car likes to lean to the left when jumping and that is the bolt that comes out most often). When that hole flexes it breaks the threadlock bond. Now the screw is free to vibrate out. The holes are machined correctly because the screws go in fairly tight. My hunch is that Kyosho knew this and that extra rib of material on top of their hubs around the screw hole does the trick. So solutions are a $12 pair of Kyosho hubs, you can get the $80 Fironi hubs for the 7.5, or you can check those bolts every race day and they probably won't come out. I doubt it will hold in for an hour long main on a track with jumps and it might not make it 30 minutes either, but most people don't run like that. So check those bolts every race day and reapply threadlock if necessary. Check them after every heat as well. Personally I'm going to try a set of Kyosho knuckles the next time I order parts.

[superman_xxxt]

Sound like you have been thinking about this one, great thought. I will give the kyosho knuckles a try. I might even do an experiment and try a dynamite knuckle on one side and a kyosho on the other.

[_Burn0ut_]

Im prolly going to go with the normal hyper 7 which comes with the ofna hyper engine and the airtronics radio system as i dont really want to buy an additional engine and then the radio system to go with it, thanks anyway

[windellmc]

Let's just say I had plenty of time to think about it at the Kyosho race since I had been leading my main with a bump up or two in easy reach until my knuckle came out. The CVA I bent the week before when the knuckle came out also gave me reason to think.

[superman_xxxt]

I'm thinking about just tapping the hole to a 4-40 locking helicoil. That would deffinatly solve the problem.

[windellmc]

I've heard of a helicoil but what is a locking helicoil? Does it have a nylon insert like a lock nut?

[superman_xxxt]

it's an insert typically used in soft metal or plastic to make threads, used primarilly in aerospace applications. It has a couple of threads that are hexagon shaped that grab the threads of fasteners as they are going in.

[ThorBobRC]

I have been thinking about making my Hyper 7 a bit more "bash-worthy" for a while now. Now I'm not talking about converting it into a full-blown monster or anything, just making it a bit more suitable for bashing "off track" and such.

I also want to keep it "track worthy", meaning that I don't want to slap on HUGE tires that would require extensive gearing/driveline modifications to work well. For me the perfect deal would be something that gave a bit better ground clearance, better grip in loose sand, a *lot* less wear, and still be fairly close to the stock sized wheels in terms of weight & diameter.

By pure chance I came a cross some wheels for a Sintech 1/8 "truggy" the other day. Liking the size of them, I figured I give em a closer look.

http://www.tnett.no/thorbob/RC_pix/H7/wheels/tire_rim.jpg


Here's what I have found out so far:

- Manufactor: SinTech Models (www.symodels.com.tw/p1.htm)

- Part number, rims: TE-41TR

- Part number, tires: TE-40TR

- Drive hex size: 17 mm (same as stock Hyper 7)

- Wheel diameter: 130 mm (stock Hyper 7 wheel 115 mm)

- Wheel width: 55 mm (stock Hyper 7 wheel 40 mm)

- Hub offset: approx 33 mm (stock Hyper 7 14 mm)

- Weight: Not weighed, a bit heavier than stock buggy wheel, but still much less than stock Maxx wheel.

- Materials: The tire rubber seems "medium" soft, not as soft as a stock buggy tire, but not stiff and "plastic like". Very comparable to stock Maxx rubber. Rims seems to be made of high-impact plastic/nylon combo - same as buggy wheels.

Crunching the numbers a bit in terms of gearing, these wheels will increase the circumference 13% compared to the stock tires. So a good gear ratio should be achieved by dropping a tooth on the clutch bell.

Here are a few shots comparing it with a (worn) stock Hyper 7 wheel:

http://www.tnett.no/thorbob/RC_pix/H7/wheels/wheels_diam.jpg

http://www.tnett.no/thorbob/RC_pix/H7/wheels/wheels_width.jpg





And it does give the Hyper a bit more of a beefy feel to it...:lol

http://www.tnett.no/thorbob/RC_pix/H7/wheels/pose1.jpg

http://www.tnett.no/thorbob/RC_pix/H7/wheels/head_on.jpg

http://www.tnett.no/thorbob/RC_pix/H7/wheels/l_side.jpg



So with any luck, I have found the perfect "beach wear" for buggy...:D

Hope its useful for ya!

Thor

[WHITESTER1]

I haven't had 1 problem with the Kyosho knuckles as of yet. When first installed, I used blue loctite and let it set up overnight. I have run two 30 min A mains, and numerous 15 min A mains. I have yet to have 1 of the screws come loose. I would guess over 1.5 gallons of fuel since I switched to the Kyosho standard front knuckles.

I do however check them regularly, but haven't found a loose screw yet.

[St00pidn00b]

Hey Thorbob,

Did you run that yet? I like the idea of having another set of tires to play around with. That is a really nice looking tire/rim combo.....

I would love to know if it works as well as it would appear...


tnx...

[dlandsv]

Ofna Blazer wheels/tires work too. I think the tire/wheel Thor is using are hard to find in US.

This comment from another forum.

I found a website that sells the tires Thorbob uses on his Hyper 7 for bashing.Here is the website: www.robsrchobbies.com .Just click on the link for the Tires/Wheels.

FYI...be aware

When I mounted the Blazer tires I found the oversize tires ruined the front of body. The body has to be trimmed or the tires will catch and rip the lexan. I mounted a truck body instead, but had to mount the body fairly high to keep the tires from catching on the body on full upward suspension travel.

[St00pidn00b]

I guess I could just see what is available at the LHS.... some trial and error might be necessary. Those tires still look cool though!

thanks for the helpfull post.....

[Tstalion79]

Hey guys. I think im about to get a Hyper 7 Pro kit. Just thought i should make a first post in this thread lol!

[Nitroleum]

Hey guys...

Thought I'd post a few piccies of my 7. It aint a pro but thought you'd like to see it anyways.... Currently running a C5 in it and the 7 has a few hop ups on it. Well impressed with both the 7 and the C5.... :D

[Nitroleum]

another...

[Nitroleum]

...next to a m8's mugen.

[Crashbot2001]

Hey guys, I race 1/10 scale gas truck, and have been bashing with a OFNA MBX R2, but have been considering racing buggies and was thinking of scraping the MBX R@ and going with a Hyper 7. I have a few ???s though.

Can you please tell me the differences in the Hyper 7 RTR, Hyper 7 kit, and Hyper 7 Pro Kit?

Obviously the RTR comes with radio, servos, engine, pipe etc,

What I want to know is Are the actual components different between the three? Like a-arm materials, tower materials, radio tray materials, different types of stiffeners, bearings, Diffs, etc?

OFNA's site does nothing to help justify the extra cost of the Pro over the kit, or even the kit over the RTR

Basically, I'm asking you to gimme all you got on the three different packages. I appreciate your help.

[Marky]

As far as i know the main difference between the RTR and the Pro are......carbon shock towers....radio plate....and the alli braces....i race with nitroluem and another guy with the pro version and thats the only diff i noticed......and the quad brake set-up....torsen diff as well.....front over here in the UK and center in the US i belive
Anybody else add anything????

Marky :D

[OldskoolGT]

The USA Hyper 7 Pro comes with aluminum shock towers now. You also get 20 and 22 degree C hubs with the Pro kit, relatively useless purple springs, full CVDs, ball bearings for the brake arms to pivot on, some aluminum pieces where the RTR uses plastic or steel, and some purple conical aluminum washers.

[dlandsv]

If you were to upgrade the Hyper 7 to the Hyper Pro-R these are the costs for the upgrade parts.

Torsen Center diff $110
QuadBrakes $12
CVA Joints Rear $49
CVA Joints Center $49
C-Hub 22 degree $10
C-Hub 19 Degree $10
Torq Brace Front $25
Torq Brace Rear $27
Alum Radio Tray Posts and Wing $18
Anti-Roll Bar Front $11
Allen Wrench Kit $28
Flywheel dual Brake $21
Misc Colored Washers $9

I suspect also, that the H7 RTR purple shock towers are 3 or 3.2 mm whereas on the pro-r the black shock towers are 4mm.

Total cost to upgrade is approximately $379 (or $322 with a 15% discount at NitroHouse).

Is it cost effective to upgrade? Why bother, a new Pro-R kit is $439. Throw in the cost of an additional body and decals ($42) and it costs almost as much to upgrade as it costs to buy a new pro-r kit.

Is it cost effective to replace the wear and tears items (CVA's and Shocks)?

CVAs 3 X 50 = $150
Shocks front and rear 2 x $45 = $90.

These items alone cost $240.

Would I upgrade? No. I would buy another kit instead.

Is it wrong to go RTR? IMO only if you think you plan to upgrade, otherwise spend the money on a better radio, servos, and motor.

When it wears out and you've improved your driving skills, spring for a pro kit (Mugen, Kyosho, Ofna 9.5, H7-Pro, etc. and not necessarily in that order)

hth

[Meestor_X]

Hey!

So I'm having some trouble getting my H7-PRO's engine (Hyper-21) tuned properly. (Engine has had 20 tanks of fuel through it, and I feel I have broken it in properly...)

I had a 1/10th scale GTX before this, and learned about tuning from it and reading lots.

Unfortunately, the H7-PRO doesn't come with any kind of manual for the engine, and since my previous truck had a .15 engine in it, with only a high speed and idle mixture adjustment, the 3 adjustments on the H-21 threw me. I thought the brass adjustment was actually the idle mixture, so unwittingly adjusted it. I put it back to where I believe that it was (flush with the casing).

My problem is I can't get the high speed mixture correct. If I set it rich enough that it doesn't hesitate when I pin the throttle, it POURS out smoke and doesn't go very fast at all. If I lean it out so it still puts out smoke, but not so much, it can really wind out and go like stink. The only problem is that it can hesitate and bog really badly. There's no compromise position inbetween that stops it from hesitating and still gives good top end speed.

I don't feel I am leaning it out too much to get it to run fast, it still blows smoke all the time - it's not THAT lean!

Would adjusting the midrange mixture help?

Any ideas?

[coyote660]

X...oct. rc nitro mag...pg 46...2 needle carbs.

[HoBaoHOBO]

Originally posted by WHITESTER1
I haven't had 1 problem with the Kyosho knuckles as of yet.

WHITESTER,

I recently got ahold of some 7.5 knuckles and yes the geometry for the most part is the same, it also allows for a minimal amount of more steering in both directions; however I have a serious problem and I'm wondering what you did to fix it. The steering knuckles are built a little different so the camber is different. I run out of threads on my turnbuckles before I can get my camber set. What did you do to remedy this, Get longer turnbuckles?? Right now my camber is at about 10degrees in and I want it at about 2. It is so far out of whack that the front CVA pops out of the drive shaft on heavy landings.

I am running the 22degree hubs, are you maybe running the stock setup???.

Thanks!

[WHITESTER1]

I have the stock hubs on. I am running -2 degrees of camber. Are am not sure what is wrong with your buggy. Are you sure you have the right tie rods on? Are you sure you have the knuckles on correctly, and not upsidedown. I haven't come across that problem, nor do I see how that can happen, atleast not on my Hyper.

Sorry I couldn't be more help.

[HoBaoHOBO]

Whitester

Thanks for the prompt reply. I'm pretty sure I have everything set up correctly; although I did set them up on the last race of the day after numerous mechanical problems so I could've botched something. I'll check it out when I go to the track Sunday and post back. I have two hyper front ends so If they are still fouled, I'll run my backup.

Later

[WHITESTER1]

Also, make sure both tie rod ends are screwed in equal length before you start making adjustments. Hope this helps. I looked at my Hyper 7 and I still have room for adjustment. Atleast 5-7 mm or 1/4 inch left for adjustment.

[Ady]

Hey guys,

Could you help me out by confirming something for me?

I want to but a H7PRO but at my LHS they have a Graupner XR-7 Competition. I believe this is the same car, just from a different distrbutor.

I've found a review/build guide here: http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/car/hobao/hyper7/hyper7build/hyper7intro.html

I'm 99% sure it is exactly the same car. As the website gives a little explanation about the different names and they even call it the H7PRO.

I just wanted confirmation that it's exactly the same kit. Otherwise I'll look for it somewhere else.

thankyou :)

[fab]

Hi,

for what I know, it should be the same car.
I'm going to buy this car also in a couple of months and i'm have the same problem.

I can buy the car in France, where it is called Pirate RS2 pro (distributed by T2M). The cheapest is 730 euro.

But I've seen, what should be the same car, for 430 euro in Germany where it is called WS Hyper 7 pro-R (does the R mean something trickt ? like "not the full pro version" ?? )

1 difference I found is that the RS2 comes with a FRONT torsen while all the others have a center torsen.

this is where i spotted the cheap buggy : (this store also sponsors twf8.ws and they donated the hyper7 wich the review so i'm pretty sure it's ok)

http://www.cmc-shop.de/shop/showdetail.php3?ArtNr=6-4905

[coyote660]

will the 9.5 knuckles work on the H7?

[dlandsv]

As info: Kyosho knuckles fit (about $10 for a pair).

If you are referring to rumors of early production H7 knuckles and the kingpin screws stripping out of the knuckles, one fix is Kyosho knuckles (cheapest method).

Refer to early posts on issue in this thread.

hth

[dlandsv]

FAB

The USA Hyper 7 Pro versions kit boxes are all labeled Hyper 7 Pro - R. Look closely at the label.

I suspect all it means is Pro - Race(r), although I have not seen that defined anywhere.

hth

[hyper7rocks]

I would like to know if any one could tell me how to adjust the rear toe on my hyper7. I was also wondering if someone could give a estimated speed for a my hyper with a 18 tooth clutch bell and a stock engine.would the engine overheat with that kind of gearing?Are the parts from this new hyper 7 with the pillow ball suspension going to be compatible with the old one?Any info can be sent to hyper7rocks@aol.com.THANK YOU:confused:

[OldskoolGT]

In the USA versions, the "R" in Pro-R doesn't really stand for anything and the kit is the same as the old "Pro" versions. I read on the sgrid that the printer of the box just decided to stick the "R" in there for no reason.

[dlandsv]

You can adjust by turning the purple ball mounts (part # 19317) in or out. On either side there is a front and rear ballmount.

Turning the front ball mount on each side out will reduce toe-in.

I would insert washers between the ballmount and rear bottom arm (part # 19309) however, to reduce flex. This will assure the ballmount is flush up against the arm which keep the ball mount screw from twisting if there is play or a gap where it screws in.

When you unscrew the purple ball mounts you will see that the upright will turn in or out as you screw the ball mounts in or out.

I think the rule is that the more toe-in the better straight line tracking (each wheel fights against the other which forces the buggy to move forward in a straight line). Toe-in scrubs off some speed, but most 1/8 scale buggies are over-powered anyway.

For example one reason why 1/10 scale trucks handle as well as they do is because the rear wheels have so much toe-in. Reduce the toe-in and all they do is go in circles or fishtale and are nearly uncontrollable.

[hyper7rocks]

I understand it would be squirely on dirt.But wouldn't the steering be more responsive on the street.I am setting it up for the parking lot.All the people i know has 1/10 scale touring cars&they all absolutely love the buggy except for the fact that it doesn't like to turn when on pavement. I told them that it would respond good on the road if it was set up for it.I believe that's true is it? After all it is made for offroad&not the asphalt.If i do put foams 0 degree toe in back & a high torque servo for steering,would it turn sharper on the asphalt? I would also like to know how much faster it would be with the stock engine & a 18 tooth clutch bell.I am running a 13 tooth now.Any responds on the last post i made which is the third post up from this one would be great.Hope to see all at the track :D :) :( :o ;) :p :cool: :rolleyes: :mad: :eek: :confused:

[hyper7rocks]

I understand it would be squirely on dirt.But wouldn't the steering be more responsive on the street.I am setting it up for the parking lot.All the people i know has 1/10 scale touring cars&they all absolutely love the buggy except for the fact that it doesn't like to turn when on pavement. I told them that it would respond good on the road if it was set up for it.I believe that's true is it? After all it is made for offroad&not the asphalt.If i do put foams 0 degree toe in back & a high torque servo for steering,would it turn sharper on the asphalt? I would also like to know how much faster it would be with the stock engine & a 18 tooth clutch bell.I am running a 13 tooth now.Any responds on the last post i made which is the third post up from this one would be great.Hope to see all at the track :D :) :( :o ;) :p :cool: :rolleyes: :mad: :eek: :confused:

[anothermbdusted]

what does the kit include in the rtr version?does it have a plastic center gear or steel? please respond soon TY

[hyper7rocks]

The hyper7 RTR & PRO both include all steel gears. The spur gear which is the center gear is a 48 tooth steel gear the pro includes a center torsen 110.00 dollar value as well as a regular diff. They both come with steel spurs.:) :D :cool: :D :) :eek: :confused: :rolleyes: ;) :( :o :p :mad:

[anothermbdusted]

thanks for the response on this subject there hyper7rocks.I was surfing and found a good deal on a ofna 9.5 so i bought it.should be here in about 2-3 days.thanks again

[ezequiel]

I traded my nmt for a hyper7 rtr sans the
electronics, due to lack of $$ I put in my standard servos and actually got to drive
this thing on the lhs track. This thing flies!
literally! it's my first buggy and I know I'm gonna love it even more. I was running it around
then the left rear hub got trashed where the bearings are fitted, thus the dogbones get locked
up on the out drives. The lhs do not have ofna
parts, but they have the rear hubs for mp7.5, and they fit right on except that I lost 2 of the upper optional holes for the rear rod end, but have gained another hingepin hole option and this part help me continue fun time. I was getting
like 5-6ft of air, on the most jumps, until i noticed that I actually had the buggy bottom
out on every landing. I have the black springs
all around and 60wt oil on the shocks, what will
I need to do so I will not bottom out the car
on jumps. There is the part of the track that has
like 7 small jumps that I am thinking if my springs are stiffer, my buggy wont be able to
take it as fast as it can on the now soft spring.
Thanks. I also think the stock h7 is undergeared since the engine is screaming but not getting anyfaster when I gun the throttle. it was like begging for more.
:D

[hyper7rocks]

EZEQUIEL I drilled 1/8th inch additional holes in the stock shock pistons and filled them up with 100 wt shock oil from associated.I also cut 4 pieces of fuel tubing 1/4 inch thick to fit over the shock shaft to stop it from bottoming out so hard.I run the ofna purple springs.It does get a little out of shape in the rough stuff,not that bad though buy it greatly affects the way it lands.It does not bottom out at all over jumps 2-6 ft high and lands much softer over all.

[windellmc]

For running on a track try a 55 or 54 drill bit in the existing piston holes with 25 weight in the rear and 30 in front. Use Kyosho or Ofna 9.5 blue springs. Kyosho springs are longer and take less spacers so that is better. They do cost a little more than the Ofna ones. The chassis will bottom out on big jumps if you don't land on the back side of another jump. That's just how it is. All of the 1/8 cars do this.

[Jamesh7p]

Hey guys i need some advice, i am thinking of selling my car but don't know how much to sell it for. This is what it has
Hyper 7 pro $460
hitec lynx 3d $185
hs5945 steering servo $90
hs5645 throttle servo $50
OS V01B (a gallon of 20% through it) $300
CVEC tuned pipe $60
trinity flat 1100 reciever batt. $30
Total=$1175


Thank you for your time,
James

[Tstalion79]

I would imagine that you could sell it for about 600 dollars rtr.

[CHUCKMANDO]

I have the rtr. I cannot get the fuel to the carb anymore. Only had it for 2 weeks. Rarely driven. I hold the stinger on and off while pulling but to no avail. The hoses and filter seem fine. If I take off the hose to the carb and put it down low, then the fuel comes out. But when I put it on the carb, it's like its to high for the fuel to climb. I noticed one of my tie wraps on the muffler was a little loose. Can't change it now,gotta go to work. Can this be the problem or can you give any suggestions.
Thanks

[Crashbot2001]

Chuckmando, yes that could be your problem.

It sounds like your header, pipe, coupler, pressure line, tank, or fuel line is leaking. Any one of these will allow pressure to escape and therefor prevent fuel from being forced to the carb. I would fix the coupler, check your header/engine connection for leaks, replace the pressure and fuel lines, and try again.

Then if it doesn;t work, you probably have either a leaking tank or something plugging your carb.

Good luck

[Meesh]

I had the same problem with mine. I pulled the main needle assembly off the carb and blew it out with an air hose. There was a small piece of crap in there. Runs fine now and starts real easy.:D

[CHUCKMANDO]

Thanks for the replies. Found a way to start it. I blew hard into the exhaust line which forced the fuel down to the carb. It is a temp fix for now till I get a chance to see where the leak is. Ran a tank and it started to rain. But thats my luck.

[_Burn0ut_]

Hello ppl, ive made the decision to get a hyper 7 pro, i will be using an Ofna 8 port in the pro and ill sort something out for the radio, not decided yet. Is there any advice u gould give me upon building the buggy or any other stuff?

cheers

[Ady]

Burnout. This article Here (http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/car/hobao/hyper7/hyper7build/hyper7index.html) worked for me.

[LouisB]

I'm thinking about getting a H7 Pro, I haven't tried 1/8th buggys before b/c the class is just starting up at my club but I have had experience with nitro trucks. Quite a few people in the club are going for the Ofna (or Ho Bao in the UK) and my LHS said that they'd sold loads so it's top of my list at the moment:)
I just have a few questions, how strong is it? I don't know if my LHS carries parts even though they should.
I was thinking about putting a RB concept WS7 or C4 engine in it, which would you recommend (other engines also)?
What is a good starter box to get? I've only used pull starts before.
Thanks for any help:)

[Marky]

The Hyper Pro offers great vaule for money in the UK, a friend that i hang out with on the race track and bash with has a H7 pro with a C4 engine and it is very quick and handles superbly
However my WS7 powered MP 6 can keep up with him on the track and we have some very close racing indeed, I dont think that C4's are available any more as it was replaced by the C5, anonther friend has one of these engines in a normal H7 and it is just a handfull to controll.....insane power and torque.....
If your LHS stocks parts for the H7 then you cant go wrong with it, however if he does not keep spares then i would try and avoid it as its no good havin to wait for weeks to replace broken parts eh ;)
I'm not sure on engine prices in Guernsey but over here a WS7 costs £190 and a C5 is around the £230 mark, and dont forget the pipe.....you will get a hyper pipe in the kit but to injoy the full performance of an RB engine a RB pipe is highly recomended (about £70 for the polished ones)......depending on the type of track that you will be racing on i would say a 063 pipe for a shortish track and a 086 for a larger track, this also applys to the engine choice as well, a C5 needs a nice large track to really stretch its legs and a WS7 is great for the smaller type tracks, however the current "world buggy champ" uses a WS7, so it just proves that the WS7 is also good on the large tracks.....i think that in a drag race the C5 will just have the edge over the WS7 but it would be a very close run thing.
The Thunder Tiger starter box is very good vaule for money, about £68 over here and will run on both 7.2v and 12v sources, it had no problems what so ever in turning over a brand new C5, and belive me RB engines are renowned for being very tight when new.
The UK spec H7 pros come with a torsen front diff as well as the standard version.
Of course this is just my opinion :D

Marky

[LouisB]

Thanks Marky, it was a great help.
I think I'll probably go with the WS7 because I've always liked RBs and the track I'll be running on is very tight, I also have a RB in my truck. Is the inline pipe and header combo a good choice?
I'm not sure if my LHS carries Ho Bao parts (b/c they have virtually nothing in the shop except traxxas) but if they are going to have spares for any buggy it will be the H7:)
The TTR starter box looks like a good idea, I'll ask at my LHS, they don't have much in stock but they can order stuff OK.
I know what you mean about RB engines being tight:eek: I could hardly pull the pull-start on my C12 when it was new!

[Marky]

Hard to say about the "inline pipe" really, i have the normal type pipe and manifold (063 pipe and long manifold) i find that it works great for me. You can also fine tune the normal type exhaust by trimming the manifold to increase bottom end or top end as you are proberbly aware of anyways. I cut approx 10mm off my manifold to improve top end slighty. But i must admitt that the one piece type pipes do look sooooo sweeeet :D
I use Three 5 Models for all my spares parts and bit's and bob's, they also stock Hyper parts, but i'm unsure if they will ship outside of the UK :confused: http://www.three5models.co.uk/
Send them a e-mail and see if they will, you never know ;)
I also have a C12 (p) in my RS4-2, great little engine eh !!!

Marky

[LouisB]

Yep I knew that about manifold trimming but i don't expect to need any more top end as the track that the club is thinking of running on is very small. There haven't been any races yet b/c they're waiting for a good number of people to get buggies before they start. I was thinking inline because with me if there is something that could fall apart or go wrong then it will:eek: I also have a good story of a kid that asked if he could pull the grass off my truck (why??), when I went off to marshall he put the grass up the stinger (but nobody saw him!) and for the rest of the day my car wouldn't run for more than 30 secs:eek: LOL

I believe that Guernsey is classified as part of the UK, at least by most R/C shops and I haven't found one that I can't get parts from yet:)
I also don't have to pay VAT:D (that Kyosho 7.5 KII at Three 5 looks loads cheaper when you see it like that:) )

I swear by RB engines, I like the huge power and amazing efficiency:D

[CHUCKMANDO]

Can someone give me a ball park setting for the rtr engine after breakin? I get it stated no problem, but I cannot give it a good gun it or even close. It dies. To me it sounds like it has too buch gas. It just blurts out. I am about 2 out on the high end, and about 2 in from flush on the low end. The first time I stalled out, I noticed the filter has come off. I took off the carb and sprayed it. But the probem persists.

[ezequiel]

I went back to the lhs track and found out that
the blue springs are like $15 a pair, so ne'er mind about that till I get $$. Anyway I bought
mc59 plug, since the track guy, said I'd need it since the day was colder, I do not know 'bout those,so I put that in my hyper21. For some
reason, I could not start with that plug. Then I
switched back to the old plug which was a
duratrax gold plug, then I was able to fire
the engine, but it flames out as soon as I
remove the igniter, that was at factory setting.
I was only able to run when I leaned the setting
to 1 and 1/4 out on the high needle. It did not
stall on me with that setting and I was able
to run 4 tanks, till my left front knuckles
stripped.!!! arrgggg. good thing mp7.5
knuckles are cheaper than those springs.
hhhhmmmm, this hyper7 of mine is slowly evolving
into a mp7.5... :D

[OldskoolGT]

ezequiel,

I think the MC59 is too hot for any .21 engine and is only for .12-.15 engines. For .21 engines, stick with 6-9 plugs. The Kyosho blue springs are just a little bit stiffer than the black springs that come with the H7, so I wouldn't worry too much about them right now.

[coyote660]

hey chuck...set your low end back to flush and your high end out about 1 1/2...heat up good ...tune high end and go from there.

[LouisB]

I'm now thinking of getting the almost RTR Hyper 7. My LHS has a really good price on an assembled one with 8 port engine and no radio gear.
I was thinking of re-building it (If I can resist the temptation of running it first) and filling the diffs with silicone fluid and threadlocking everything. I'm not sure what viscosity to get, I was thinking of going for 1000 in the rear, 5000 up front and 7000wt in hte centre diff, does this sound about right for a small dirt track???
This would also leave me with more money to upgrade the engine when I need more performance and to get good servos:)
Which servos would you recommend?
Thanks in advance:cool:

[Marky]

Servos eh...hmmm....depends on what ya wanna pay really ??
The hitec range are quite good and reasonable priced
HS645mg and the HS625mg are priced at £30 each and are up to the job ( i have these myself :D )
645 = 9.6kg @ 6v speed 0.2 sec
625 = 6.8kg @ 6v speed 0.15 sec
As you can guess i have the 625 up front and the 645 for the throttle/brakes, you could always try the other way if you like, but i like serious brakes ;) enough to lift the rear wheels somtimes :eek:
The diff weights you suggested are a good starting point, i think its more of a prefrence thing really, depending on your style of driving. I'm running 7'000 f 10'000 c 3'000 r but must admit its a little twitchy at the rear, but i like it like that :p

Marky

[LouisB]

Thanks Marky, I have a 625 in my B3 and i like it but I was looking for more performance to be able to really flick this thing around the corners:D I may get a Hitec digital for steering b/c they seem to have pretty good specs and are fairly cheap and a cheap hi-torque servo for throttle/brakes. I've always found it worth while to get decent servos before, and I s'pose it's even more important in a car this heavy.

[Marky]

Like i say, "it depends what you wanna pay"
check out http://www.hitecrcd.com they have some digtal jobbies with 13kg of torque and a reaction time of 0.10 but not sure on the prices :confused:

Marky

[Crashbot2001]

Hey guys, check this place out.. free shipping to the US, I dunno about where you guys are.. muight have to call them, but I got my didgital Hitec 5945 MG Digital Coreless from them and love it.. It's very fast and very strong.... and cheap(relatively)

Torque:

4.8VDC:
153 oz-in. (10.98 kg-cm)

6.0VDC:
180 oz-in. (12.91 kg-cm)

Speed @ 60 Degrees:

4.8VDC:
0.16 seconds

6.0VDC:
0.13 seconds



www.servocity.com

[LouisB]

The 5945 was the servo I was looking at before, I'm making and order from Stormer Hobbies so that will be added too:)

[CHUCKMANDO]

Originally posted by coyote660
hey chuck...set your low end back to flush and your high end out about 1 1/2...heat up good ...tune high end and go from there.
Thanks for the reply. I tried but still cannot get it right. Once the engine starts, basically I can restart it on 1 or 2 pulls with vertually any setting I use close to what you stated. It idled pretty well, I can go about 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. The engine seems to bog with any strain to it. several times it sort of backfired. But this is all better then before.I cleand and airtighted the carb back onto the engine. Can I also air tight the needles on the threads. I didn't do that yet. I am so fed up at this point I may get a new engine by the end of the week if this keeps up. I don't really want to, but thinking of the OS because they are supposed to be easy to get going. But I love my RB x-12 so maybe I will check RB'S out. Can someone give me any more ideas on the hyper 21 first or maybe give me suggestions on a decent engine. It will be more for bashing this year anyway.
Thanks

[ezequiel]

chuckmando, I also had experienced that, when I first
went out with the used h7 I traded with. The engine
would start on first 2 pulls, keeps good idle but doesn't
seem to move and will always quit out when I gas it 1/4 or 1/2. The car seems to be fighting something and could not move.
I found out that the bearings in the rear hub stucks up,
especially when I put down the car on it's wheels. check
that your car rolls with ease when engine is off, see that the drive
train is not binding or that your bearings are not shot. hope this
helps. if not I can help you get that hyper engine out of your
hands. :D

[CHUCKMANDO]

Originally posted by ezequiel
chuckmando, I also had experienced that, when I first
went out with the used h7 I traded with. The engine
would start on first 2 pulls, keeps good idle but doesn't
seem to move and will always quit out when I gas it 1/4 or 1/2. The car seems to be fighting something and could not move.
I found out that the bearings in the rear hub stucks up,
especially when I put down the car on it's wheels. check
that your car rolls with ease when engine is off, see that the drive
train is not binding or that your bearings are not shot. hope this
helps. if not I can help you get that hyper engine out of your
hands. :D

Thanks, I will check tonight. Is supposed to rain all weekend anyway. Nothing to do but break it down, and if all fails, guess a nice paper weight. I was looking into maybe getting an rbs7 or ws7 if all fails. I was told th rex 5 is as good or better.

Any other suggestions I really appreciate.

[coyote660]

hey chuck...your low end's fat....lean it out 1/4 turn and make sure nothing's bound up like zeke said...stick in a new plug..ofna 51007..and as you run continue to lean the low end needle until you get good throttle response...don't stab the throttle from stopped until you're warmed up...good luck.

[CHUCKMANDO]

Thanks Coyote, I adjusted the servo travel so the break will engage a little latter. That wasn't it. I noticed late last night that the rubber sliding part that goes in and out deforms when being moved. I also noticed that when I let off the throttle, the carb closes at regular speed to a point, then closes slowly for the last 1/8 of travel or so. I am going to reclean the carb out. I really think there is something wrong with the carb. I started racing nitro touring since March. I have a little understanding of tuning but am no way seasoned at it. I will let out know how it turns out. Want to save as much as $ possible for my MRX3 for next year, or I would have bot a new engine by now.

[_Burn0ut_]

My h7 pro shoud be arriving soon and im going to my LHS to get some diff and shock oils. Im not going to be using the torsen diff quite yet so what level oils should i use in : The diffs, and the shocks. I will be running mostly on slightly bumpy grass and a bit of tarmac.

What wt in the diffs and shocks should i use?

cheers

[Marky]

A good starting point would be 5000 F 7000 C and grease in the rear. As for the shocks, try 30wt all round.
What LHS are you getting it from ?? And what engine have ya chose ??

Marky

[_Burn0ut_]

Im going with the 8 port hyper first as i want to learn how to drive it b4 i go with an RB. I have a .21 maxx and a xt-r3e so im experienced with big blocks.

I cant really call it a LHS as my nearest is 50+ miles. Im prolly gonna get the greases + stuff from modelsport or galaxy. The h7 pro and 8 port r coming from special contacts for £350. Cheap as chips as the duke would say :D

[Marky]

Man thats fookin cheap :D
Dont forget Three 5 Models, they stock hyper spares and all your buggy needs. They have a good mail order service too

Marky

[_Burn0ut_]

Do they stock diff greases ect ect, do u know if u get a glow starter with the h7 pro as i broke my old one.

[CHUCKMANDO]

I took the carb off. Took all the pins out, and noticed that the slide doesn't slide in and out too freely.I resprayed the carb out. No help. I.put afterrun oil in and it moves only a little better. I noticed that the slide will rotate a little making it slide better or more difficult depending how it rotates. I also noticed the accordein on the outside fills up with air and deforms when depressed, till the air leeks out. I didnt take this off. Is this the next step and what shold I be looking for?
Thanks in advance

[Marky]

Originally posted by _Burn0ut_
Do they stock diff greases ect ect, do u know if u get a glow starter with the h7 pro as i broke my old one.

Yup, they will have grease :D
They have every thing you need for your buggy and even stuff you didn't think you needed ;)
No glow start with the hyper i'm affraid
You may want to consider a different set of tyres to glue up, the kit tyres are ok but, Turbo Rats are better, however they will not last 5 mins on tarmac :( They cost about £15 glued on rims, so i guess they are about £13 ish on there own ( per pair )

Marky

[CHUCKMANDO]

I replaced my carb with a freinds and the emgine is working lot better. Still not prefect, but it has been raining all day here. Hope that is causing the rest of the problem. Also has anyone expirianced any problems with the tank? Seems the lid doesn't close air tight. This is my second one? I thought it was me, but my friend, who has been running for years, noticed the same thing.

[_Burn0ut_]

What rims do u get the tires on? Also, are those 16 spoke wheels good? they look really spongy. Im gonna place an order on monday for the greases, oils ect. Im gonna ask them whats best for mostly grass running, ive never had to put oil in diffs before so its gonna be a case of asking and trial and error.

[coyote660]

chuck....i don't think the amount of moisture in the air going into the mix is doing you much good my friend....tanks are about 12 bucks...swap it out.

[Marky]

Originally posted by _Burn0ut_
What rims do u get the tires on? Also, are those 16 spoke wheels good? they look really spongy. Im gonna place an order on monday for the greases, oils ect. Im gonna ask them whats best for mostly grass running, ive never had to put oil in diffs before so its gonna be a case of asking and trial and error.

The rims aren't the best looking :( but since you have to glue the tyres up you can use the rims that you have have, which i think are very nice :D
Three 5 Models may give you a better set up for your diffs and shocks....i'm only going on what my buddy runs at the track ;)
The rims look like this

Marky

[CHUCKMANDO]

Coyote,
I should have said this is my second one after the orgional. I only bashed for a a total of 1/2 hr and not all out. Since we were breaking it in. Thats why I was asking if anyone else expirianced this problem

Tks again

[anothermbdusted]

look here maybe this can help you for your tank.I know that it is for the 9.5 but who knows right http://www.jamminproducts.com/ofna_9_5.htm

[_Burn0ut_]

Thanks Marky, im gonna leave the tires for a while, im saving up for an airtronics 200oz servo and a few other things to get the pro upto its full potential.

How much are those RB's and how well do they run over other engines? U need a starter box right?

Im giving 3-5 a call tomorrow to order some things and ill ask them whats best to put in my diffs ect.

[Marky]

RB WS7 = £190 comes with the "concept" coating
RB C5 = £240 or £265 with the "concept" coating on the crank
RB S7 = £160
And don't forget the pipe which is about another £70-80 ish
Cant really compare them against other engines as most of the guys i bash and race with all have RB's :D
That must say summit eh ;)
And yes you will need a starter box, the Thunder Tiger box is about £70 plus batts :( but does the job nicley

Marky

PS if you can visit 3/5 to purchase you bits'n'bobs you can haggle a bit on the price, but he will not give you any discount on a engine !!!!

[prevelige]

ok guys, I need help.

I bought a paris mod picco for my H7 pro. The problem is that the clutch nut seems to be a different pitch than the shaft. Is this possible?

I thought there was a standard size clutch nut and pitch. Am I wrong?

Thanks

Bob

[_Burn0ut_]

Does anybody know where i can get some of those long lasting, bigger than AA batteries. Theres 5 of them and they are like those of that in the foto

[Marky]

Is that your buggy BurnOut ??
I take it you want a longer runtime ?? Have you got 600mAh ??
If so you can get the same size pack but with 1100mAh, thats what i have and it lasts ages :D
http://www.modelsportuk.com/bin/products/o12211.jpg
£20 from modelsport, the only difference i have is that mine is in a hump pack configuration (3 cells on the bottom and 2 on top )
I dont think that you really need the bigger than AA size batteries pack cos you will have probs fitting it IMO

Marky

[_Burn0ut_]

No, its not my buggy, but im looking for some batts like in the photo. I have some EZ-start batts which i used for my maxx but i dont use them nemore, are they too big to go in the buggy.

[Crashbot2001]

Too bad they don't stay this clean!

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid39/pe3f2cf12172e7589bb544802087a863b/fd05d0be.jpg

[1/8 Nitro]

I was thinkin about gettin the Mp6 white springs for my H7 but the look like they would be a little long and not give goos cushion. Is anyone runnin these or know a better setup?

[_Burn0ut_]

I just bought a Lynx 3d fm radio set off ebay for £92, very pleased, looks in good condition, in box. Includes a DCR aswell :D

[LouisB]

I'm getting the ARTR H7 for christmas:D I now have a digital steering servo (hitec), hi torque throttle/brake servo, 1K, 5K and 7K diff oil, 1000mAh rx pack and I'm gettng a mugen starter box with the car:)
BUT, are there any extras on the Pro I should save up for and put on my car?
Thanks

[windellmc]

The batteries in that picture are smaller than AA. They come in the Orion or Trinity receiver packs. They usually have 1000 or 1100 mah in the NiMh version.

[_Burn0ut_]

LouisB - How much are u getting the mugen starter box for as im looking for one, and where r u getting the battery pack from, how much do both of them cost?

[LouisB]

I think the starter box is about £65 but i'm not sure, that's from my LHS. I ordered the battery from Stormer Hobbies along with a lot of touring car stuff when i made my last order from America.

edit> I have an Orion RX pack in my T-Maxx that i got from Modelsport UK for £20. They also do flat packs:)

[_Burn0ut_]

Did u get the batts for the starter box or not? If not, how much are they?

[LouisB]

You can use 2 7.2 volt battery packs (just cheap sport ones) or a 12v battery. When I get some new race packs (electric racing) my current ones will go into the starter box but until then I'll use a 12V 7A sealed battery. I think the sport packs are pretty cheap but you'll need a charger for them. My 12V was £17, I use it to power my charger

[AEAddict]

Is that your buggy BurnOut ??


Nope. that's my Buggy before I got done building it up.

The battery pack I run is a 1000MAH NiMH MDP battery. I picked it up for $29.99 at my LHS.

I just have a little charge jack-switch, and it's set to go. Don't even have to undo the battery box to charge the buggy. ( I kep the lead short enough so crap wouldn't get in it either).

Here's my buggy NOW:

[Tstalion79]

Hey guys. Do you know if the hyper 7 RTR is any good? Is it close to as good as the pro? Thanks

[smacked]

ya which one is faster/better/more reliable out of the box? Ultra LX Pro or the Hyper 7 RTR? specific details pleez :D

[Crashbot2001]

tstalion and smacked.... Depends on what you're gonna do with it..

If you're just gonna play with it, get the LX RTR.. It's very tough, cheap, and lots of fun.

If you plan to race it, the hyper 7 pro is the way to go. Much better set-up for racing, better parts, better adjustability, etc. The rtr comes with all the stuff you don't need.. cheap radio.. sell it, engine, pipe, etc, sell them.. cheap servos.. sell them, etc etc.. then get all the parts the pro comes with and you lost money. I just bought a Hyper 7 Pro kit, RB C-5, the ofna one piece pipe, a digital high torque steering servo and an analog med torque throttl/break servo.. Lotta money? YEs.. Worth it? Yes.

[coyote660]

then race it on carpet and it won't even get dirty..:D

[OldskoolGT]

Hey all,

I just thought I would report back here on my experience with cylinder squeezing (done by that osrocket fellow). The piston/sleeve is from from a WS7 engine. Initially, the squeezed P/S felt just like a brand new one, with lots of pinch at the top. But after break in and one race (3 qualifiers + main), it does not feel like there is any pinch left, and turning the flywheel by hand does not give that distinctive pop you get with a fresh engine. I did speak do another racer who has had many cylinders squeezed and he said that while there is no "pop", the engine should last for awhile. I will report back later on how well the cylinder lasts.

[Crashbot2001]

Hey guys, I'm not happy with my fuel and pressure line routing on my Hper 7 Pro. Could you folks with the capabilities to do so please post some pics of how you run your lines? I would like to see some alternatives.. Thanks!

[anothermbdusted]

for anybody that wants some.I was talking to jr yesterday at acehardwarehobbies and he dtated that he will be getting very shortly some lundsford titanium hinge pins and turnbuckles for the hyper 7, 9.5 .He didn't state when he will but i would imagine in the next day or two so if you want some try giving him a call.CYA

[Crashbot2001]

Tower Hobbies has the Lundsford Turnbuckle kit for it in stock

[Motorman007]

I was looking around I found these pic’s

The photo’s are not that great. But it is something


The new Hobao OFNA Hyper7
http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/worldpics/2_pic.jpg


http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/worldpics/2_zoom_pic.jpg

Particular of fusello on spheres of the Hyper7 new and "the increased" support the shocks-absorber


http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/worldpics/3_pic.jpg


Sight of the Hyper7 new





http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/worldpics/3_zoom_pic.jpg


Sight in particular of the posterior revolutionary fusello on spheres.

http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/worldpics/4_pic.jpg

Particular of the new Hobao OFNA Hyper7

[nitroburnerr]

Hello,

I was wondering whether a RZvo1b (P) would fit and work in a hyper 7 pro. And also does the crankshaft need to be cut up to the threads? Any help would be appreciated.


Thank you.

[Crashbot2001]

nitroburner, it will fit just fine, and no, don;t cut the shaft. The flywheel, clutchnut, clutchbell and all that come with the kit should go right on

[LouisB]

I had a look at a H7 pro with RZV01B tearing up the track a couple of days ago, it looks like a great engine, very smooth and powerful:)

[soslo]

The vo1b will drop right in. It IS sweeet over the Hyper 21. The Hyper 7 really jumps now!:)

[soslo]

Did have to put and extra washer on the end of the screw thouugh. The clutch bell was binding up, when the screw was tightened. So the crank may be a little shorter, but not enough to matter.
and oh yesyesyes!!! LOL!! Ofna has shiny "racing" universals out now! (Under "new products" on the ofna homepage.)

[BurnsDX]

Well I ordered my Hyper 7 today. It is time to retire my BurnsDX. Are the new kits still having the steering knuckle problems?

[soslo]

Got the cnc knuckles just in case with this one. After 5 races the originals are still there.

[OldskoolGT]

BurnsDX,

The steering knuckle problem has supposedly been fixed. However I always had problems with the bottom screws coming loose and eventually stripping out (went through 3 sets of knuckles). You should constantly check the tightness of those screws. I think the best and cheapest soultion is the Kyosho knuckles for the 7.5. They are of vastly superior quality to the Ofna ones and just cost $13.

BTW, now is porbably a good time to retire that Burns DX. :)


And happy holidays to all my fellow Hyper 7 drivers.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

i just got the hyper pro what is a good starting point for diff fluids and weights and where can i find basic set-up sheets with settings to start with. what is the diference in front hubs in degrees what do they do between them both. i have an rbs7 and i believe it should rip with that in it. rb blew apart my mbx and instead of upgrading that thing i bought the hyper pro i hope this time it was a good move.:rolleyes:
have a merry christmas dudes................

[soslo]

The bottom left screw did get a little loose during the last race, but screws always must be checked anyway. Just loktited it back in. It seems to be holding ok.
Thankya' OldskoolGT! You drive a GT also, I take it? My son flat refuses to trade his in for a Losi!! hehe!!
Happy Holidays from Texas, to ALL!! :-)

Didn't see your post there KolorCraft. It started a new page!
My son is running the setup shown in the manual. 5000 front, 7000 rear, and 1000 rear. The different degree hubs are for if you want more steering. The kyosho boys are running 22 degree hubs, but my son said he can still out manuver them with the 17 degrees on the Hyper. We might put them on, just to see what they do, but he is very happy with the way it drives with the 17 degree hubs.
I would like to hear what everyone else thinks about the 20, and 22 degree hubs too.
Enjoy!! :-)

[soslo]

Oh.. I have no idea where to find different setups for the Hyper. Been looking myself.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

soslo did you just put it together like the instructions and what diff fluid did you use.

[soslo]

It is together just like the instructions say. 5000 front diff, 7000 middle, and 1000 rear. It doesn't matter what brand of oil.

[OldskoolGT]

Here is a starting setup for the Hyper 7 from Rick at Ofna, taken from the Starting Grid.

Front
Toe: ZERO
Arms Level
-1 degree Camber
22 Degree Caster
2.1 mm Sway Bar
35 Weight Shock Oil
55 piston (standard)
Blue springs(kyosho)
Shocks on Top middle on the tower
Inner hole on the arms
Upper arms on lower hole on the tower

Rear
Toe in 3 degrees
Bones Level
-1 degree Camber
2.8mm Sway bar
30 weight Shock Oil
54 piston(drilled)
Blue Springs(kyosho)
Shocks on Lowere outer hole on tower
outer hole on arm
Hubs forward
Upper arm middle inner hole on tower
upper inner hole on hub

For the diffs, try 3000/7000/1000 or 5000/7000/1000 for more steering upon exiting turns.

I would also seal up the diffs with some silicone or RTV sealant and use some teflon plumbers tape on the setscrew that goes in the service hole to keep the diff oil from leaking out.


The lower the amount of camber, the more low speed steering you get. So the 17 degree hubs might be the best for tight technical tracks. Most guys I see are running the 20 degree hubs because they are a good compromise betwee the 17 and 22 degree hubs.

KOLOR KRAFT,

I am sure you will like your Hyper 7. It is a very robust buggy and can withstand a good deal of abuse. And once dialed in, it can hang with the best out there.

soslo,

Yeah, I do have a GT, although I retired my "old school" GT (tub chassis) awhile back after getting a new GT. Right now I race with my new XXX-NT because Ultimate Hobbies was selling them so cheap and I wanted to see what all the fuss was about.

[Marky]

Originally posted by OldskoolGT
BurnsDX,

The steering knuckle problem has supposedly been fixed. However I always had problems with the bottom screws coming loose and eventually stripping out (went through 3 sets of knuckles). You should constantly check the tightness of those screws. I think the best and cheapest soultion is the Kyosho knuckles for the 7.5. They are of vastly superior quality to the Ofna ones and just cost $13.

BTW, now is porbably a good time to retire that Burns DX. :)


And happy holidays to all my fellow Hyper 7 drivers.


I had a similar problem with my knuckles (MP6) screws keep comming loose, no matter how much thread lock i used, and how long i left it to set. Eventually stripping them as well, however i seem to have found a cure, I replaced the 10mm cap screw with a 12mm cap screw because thats all i had left one day at the track and it seems to have solved the problem. I think the extra 2mm of thread which just pokes through the knuckle is enough to hold it in place and it does not interfere with the drive cup......give it a try and see if it works for you :D

Marky

[soslo]

Thankya' Oldskool, and Marky! Your reports have been logged in.
You can get copies of a blank set up sheet from the Ofna website, just in case someone is needing some. They come in handy!
Left the GT off your handle Oldskool, because you are a traitor!!! LOL!! :-) Just had to roust ya' up about it! hehe!!
Everyone have a Good Day tomorrow.
Happy Racing to ALL!! :) :cool:

[BurnsDX]

Thanks OldskoolGT, I will post some pics when I get it finished.

[Mugen21]

on that setup posted above unless ofna has changed the pistons they are not 55 from the factory, you will have to drill the fronts out with a #55 drill bit.

[Crashbot2001]

On that Set-up, the upper front arms should be on the Upper hole on the tower.. You missed the correction a few posts later OldSchoolGT.. lol

[KOLOR KRAFT]

good info thanks, here is a another one should i take the torsen diff apart to put silicon fluid in it, i opened it up and it has red grease looking stuff in it i wanted to put 7000 in the center but cant find anywhere that tells you that you have to..............

[Marky]

Do Not Use silicone oil in a Torsen!!!!!
You have to use ONLY torsen oil Red or Black i belive

Marky

[KOLOR KRAFT]

i kindo thought so but wasn't sure i love the info they give you in these kits. thanks dude.

[OldskoolGT]

I think the best stuff to use in an Onfa torsen is grease. I use Mobil synthetic grease in my torsen.

And don't forget to put some grease on the ring and pinion gears too.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

what is the best battery pack to put in the hyper does anybody recomend a certain brand please.

[Crashbot2001]

KOLOR, it doesn't matter. you can get a great price on battery packs here:

www.onlybatterypacks.com

[soslo]

I soldered 5 of the RayoVak AA 1600mAh nimh into hump packs for the GT. They work pretty well in the Hyper also, although they are a little bulky. If you can find the Crono packs, they go for about $20.00.
The more mAh rating the longer you can run between charges. The RayoVacs (Energizers are sanyo cells, from what I hear) run through the qualifiers, and could make it through a 30 minute main, no problemo. I just like to put the charger on it before the main, just to be safe. :)

ALMOST FORGOT!!
In case anyone has the Hyper .21, and uses o.s.plugs in it.. DON'T!
The proper plugs are: McCoy MC8 (medium), MC9 (cold),or ofna/picco #51007. This came from Chris, at Ofna.
The o.s.plugs are about 2 threads too short. They will cause the engine to be hard to tune, and overheat.
I was having tuning and heating problems w/mine.
Just thought ya'll would like to know.
:) :cool:

[BurnsDX]

I just got my Hyper 7 and have a few questons. I ended up with 3 extra 6x14 mm shims for the diffs, 2 where in the frt/rear diff bag and 2 in the center diff bag. It shows only one going in the center diff. When the diffs are together they feel alittle notchy, you can feel the gears. Using 5000/7000/1000. I have alittle play between the steering knuckle bushing and the hub. The upper shock 3x16 screws are missing, Have not looked in other bags yet. Now to decide on an engine.

[soslo]

It sounds like you are doing it right. They just throw extra parts in sometimes, and don't take time to count them. It's the mass production thing.
The only thing that bothers me is the the play in the hub. Sure you have the screw tight? There may be some casting in the hole, and not letting the screw go in all the way, or something like that. You have the washer on? Just checking.
My driver (son) wants an RB C5. ( I am just the lowly pit b----. ) Trying to tone him down to at least a WS7. Ya... right! It's like talking to a brick wall. He is running the v01b now, but he wants MORE!! hehe!! The Rossi Black Widow looks awsome, but they also have a new one out. I forget what it is called. It is on the CML distributing site, in the U.K. The boys' gonna' be doing donuts around the corners, and on the straights! LOL!! There are some radical motors out now.
O.S. is supossed to be coming out with a v03b? it is supossed to have a new piston, and whatever else. I duunnnoo! It is hard to
keep up with with all the new stuff.
Hope my rambling helped some! :-)

[BurnsDX]

Everything is in and tight, bushings are tight to knuckle but the bushing had about 1 mm play between bushing flange and the hub. I dont see it being a problem just seems that it could be tighter.

[soslo]

Ohh..ok..I see what you are talking about now. The up and down. This one has it too. It is just added "give" for suspension travel. hehe!! It hasn't created any problem. Put it together, and drive it! :-)
The O.S. RG is down to about $120.00 or so. That wouldn't be a bad motor. They run pretty decent.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

my hyper pro didn't have the upper shock screws either thank god i had other screws from another ofna that worked . it drove me crazy last night trying to find them till 2 in the morning..i was a little confused on the clutch shims the bell spins free but had alot of extra shim thinging left.:confused: :confused:

[soslo]

Kolor Kraft?
Did you put your RB in there?
My driver (son) wants a C5. Have you driven one? Do you think it would be too much for tracks with 120 -150 ft straights, and technical with big jumps in the middle?
I read the ws7 is better for most tracks, as the C5 won't get to full speed unless there are 200 ft. straightaways? In that aspect,.. Would the ws7 have more punch off the line, regardless of the power rating, and number of ports? Less ports are supossed to have more botom end.
We are running the v01b now. He keeps hollering for "more" on the bottom end, but there isn't any left to give. He doesn't want to gear down a tooth because of the straightaway speed. The kiddo loves awsome bottom end, but doesn't want to get blown away in the straights either.
Have a good time with the Hyper! You made a nice choice. Picked up the gray "hyper" wheels this morning. They sure are puurrttyy!!
Happy 7.5 Hunting!
Oh ya... Ya'll may want to put longer screws and locknuts on the lower ends of the chassis braces. Those screws take a beating there, and have a tendency to come loose. Just something to keep an eye on.

[OldskoolGT]

Soslo,

Check out the new Novarossi Rex PR-21 P5. Chad Bradley used a stock one (with aftermarket cooling head) at the recent IFMAR 1/8 Worlds and did pretty well with it. I just ordered one and will report back here after I run it. A C5 just seems crazy unless your track consists of mostly 200 ft straightaways. :)


The really sad aspect of the play between the bushing and the hub is that Kyosho is using the same exact C-hub (in the new KE 2 kit) and there is no play there. So Kyosho does a better job with Ofna parts than Ofna does with their own parts. :(

[soslo]

Thanks OldskoolGT.
The C5 is a little much.
I just don't want to have to deal w/Trinity. Ernie seems to be getting his hands into everything anymore. After a little d4 episode, I just don't trust em. It looked like the parts were just thrown in, magnet spacers were missing, and the armature looked like it was turned w/sandpaper. Waaayy out of round. Started getting them from Banzai after that.
I was thinking about putting nylon washers between the hub and steering knuckle. (one on top, and one at the bottom) That should work ok. It seems like a sudden hard shock at the slop would really cause the screws to loosen up. It does need to be more solid. Since the bottom screw takes most of the abuse, it would make sense that it would come loose 1st, which it does. Taking out the slop would be a definate improvement. :)

[KOLOR KRAFT]

THE C5 HAS STUPID AMOUNTS OF POWER i am happy with ws7 good all auround power and torque just a little more power than OS i can run them down on the backstrech in my mbx wich couldn't stay together:) :) on the c5 one guy had one at the track and it was uncontrolable power was sliding that thing all over the place i think sometimes all 4 wheels were off the ground on the straitiway way to much power for small to medium size tracks. that engine sounded like little explosions go auround that track...........

[soslo]

Well now Kolor Kraft...
He thrives on stupid amounts of power. Especially bottom end. BUT< there is a limit.
If the ws7 can out perform the v01b, that would be fine. He doesn't need anything that will launch him into the next county, on the tracks around here.
Happy Racing! :)

[Marky]

Originally posted by KOLOR KRAFT
THE C5 HAS STUPID AMOUNTS OF POWER i am happy with ws7 good all auround power and torque just a little more power than OS i can run them down on the backstrech in my mbx wich couldn't stay together:) :) on the c5 one guy had one at the track and it was uncontrolable power was sliding that thing all over the place i think sometimes all 4 wheels were off the ground on the straitiway way to much power for small to medium size tracks. that engine sounded like little explosions go auround that track...........

I have to agree,
I have a WS7, and a couple of the guys i race/bash with have C4's and C5's and all i can say is that i'm the current champ ;)
The C5 is awesome, loads of power, but you need a BIG track to make the most of it, The track we run at is not very big, so when the C5 is just getting upto "top RPM" the next corner is comming up fast, where as the WS7 reaches max RPM alot quicker, and the power delivery is so much smoother with the WS7. The C5's power seems to come in "all at once" and just spins up all four tyres!!!
The C4 is more competition to me than the C5, it seems to have a more usable power band, doesn't seem to come in so "sharp"
I suspose that with the right clutch/diff/tyre tuning you could get more of the power to the ground, but its alot easier with a WS7
IMO ;)

Marky

[1Fat Cat]

what i dont understand on the Hyper 7 pro, is why ofna has put the standard uprights on the front suspention as opposed to the other kits that have the ball ends. It seems to me that they are trying to scub weight . I dont know of any other reason. But the ball ends seem to take alot more abuse. I figure there would be some hardcore, seasoned racers in here that could give me some better insight.

I curently have a ultra mbx and have recently returned to the hobby. I love the way the new Pro kit looks but for the money maybe looking at the 9.5 mbx or even a lesser ultra mbx pro. I am definately going to swap the radio out but again they are now offering, it seems, so much product for dollar in the rtr kits.
The only thing I hate about the rtr kits is....I want to build and check everything myself....that way i know its right.

any opinions?????

[1Fat Cat]

what i dont understand is why ofna has put the standard uprights on the front suspention as opposed to the other kits that have the ball ends. It seems to me that they are trying to scub weight. But the ball ends seem to take alot more abuse.

I curently have a ultra mbx and have recently returned to the hobby. I love the way the new Pro kit looks but for the money maybe looking at the 9.5 mbx or even a lesser ultra mbx pro. I am definately going to swap the radio out but again they are now offering, it seems, so much product for dollar in the rtr kits.

any opinions?????

[soslo]

The Hyper 7 and Ultra are made by HoBao. The 9.5 is made by HongNor. Ofna is the distributer in the U.S.
The new rtr Hyper 7 is going to have the pivot ball suspension, and come with a starter box. The pro version should follow shortly after that.
The Ultra is going through diff. problems now. There is an upgrade for the axles also, from 6mm to 8mm.

Did ya'll know Ofna now has a forum on the website? Also a new opions page, and notices.

[OldskoolGT]

1Fat Cat,

There is nothing wrong with the "traditional" style C-hubs that the Hyper 7 uses. It is much easier to set up than the pivotball type suspension and just as durable if not more durable than pivotbal IMHO. And the buggy with the most big race wins (Kyosho) uses C-hubs as well.

[soslo]

The pivot ball just looks scary. Just don't know how much abuse they can take.
But then again, Mugen has had it for years, and has no problems with it.
It is supossed to create less friction between the moving parts, for better suspension travel. Guess it sounds logical.
:)

[1Fat Cat]

history shows that c-hubs work great. I just have had experience with other cars in the past that were not so forgiving. The cars that had pivot balls seem to hold up to more abuse.

I gues the other thing you have to look at is that most harcore and seasoned racers who have these kits....dont do alot of bashing. The other thing is that they are probably better drivers as well. I dont know. I just could see some guy just buying the hyper to beat up.

[soslo]

Some will get them, just to see how much abuse they can take. That you can be assured of! LOL!! And then cry when they do break. :confused:
This one is strictly for racing. You can't finsh races when you break. Always looking for ways to make it more dependable!
I heard in one of the forums, there is a cnc chassis, for less chassis flex.
Having a little problem with the motor dieing, when landing from jumps. It has not been a big problem with the v01b, but the Hyper .21 does it really bad.
I measured the flywheel depth from the bottom of he chassis, on both engines, and they are the same.
The cnc chassis is supossed to cure this problem.
Does anyone have a part #?
Found the cnc chassis for the 9.5, but not for the Hyper 7.
Called nitrohouse, but they are closed today.
Has anyone else run into this?
HAPPY NEW YEAR!! :)

[OldskoolGT]

soslo,

The part # for the CNC H7 chassis is 87313-L. I don't know if it's availiable in the US yet though. I got that info from an ad in a Taiwanese RC magazine. The incredible part is the price. In Taiwan, the retail price of the CNC chassis is only $55!!!

According to the Ho Bao ad, the chassis is 4mm thick, so I guess that probably would flex considerably less than the stock 3mm chassis. Seems it is gonna add a bunch of weight though.

[1Fat Cat]

well what about Harcore. I know they were making some products for the kyosho cars. sur ewould be cool if they were to make some superlite chassis out of TI. I would buy that for sure.

[soslo]

Thanks for the info. OldskoolGT!
That number would be 19313-L over here then. Wonder what the "L" is for? Could it be longer? The cost is always more over here. Got the Hyper 7 pro for $285.00 from Japan. A friend went there on a business trip, and brought it back with him. Now he regrets selling it. LOL!! He has full intentions of getting another one when he goes back.
The Hyper 7 has plenty of power, so I am not as concerned with the weight difference, as much as I am about it dieing out.
I figured the v01b is just a stronger motor than the Hyper .21, so it is able to take more of a sudden shock, if the clutch bell and spur gear were flexed together too far by the chassis warping, when landing.
Does that make sense to ya'll?? hehe!

Hardcore doesn't, or didn't, have one a couple of weeks ago, 1 Fat Cat. Maybe they will later? If they see they can make some $$ out of it, I am sure they will. I don't know about titanium though. It would be expensive.

Thanks Again! :) :cool:

[soslo]

Hey ya bums!! Ya'll still hung over from New Years? hehe!! j/k :-)

Just called Ofna, and talked to Amgel about the cnc chassis. Angel talked to Paul and found out the Japan version is not going to be released here.
Instead, they are going to release the chassis Paul made, and drove at the Worlds in Uraguay. Angel said 2 weeks or a month before it hits the market, as it just went into production.
No one else has run into the dieing out problem?
Happy 7.5 Hunting!! :) :cool:

[KOLOR KRAFT]

OK lets hear your picks on shock springs these purple ones are really bad plus i don't like purple it reminds me of my hpi mt really agrevating truck. finally got my new starter box to work didn't think assy. would be that dificault to wire love there instructions let hear it for ofna again........:D

[OldskoolGT]

KOLOR KRAFT,

Give the black springs a try. I have no idea what Ofna was thinking with the purple springs. They are way too soft for a buggy.

The hot setup is of course the blue Kyosho springs. The blue Ofna springs are also very close in spring rate to the Kyosho's and cost less too.

[soslo]

The white Kyosho springs are stiffertanthe blues. Some like to run them on the front.

[LouisB]

Can anyone give me a basic set-up for a short, technical, slightly bumpy dirt track (with several large jumps)? I haven't had much chance to test yet so I don't know how far off the stock set-up is so I'd like to try a proven set-up:)

Can someone explain how changing droop on the buggy changes handling? I know what it does on a touring car but I don't know if it's any different for a buggy.

Thanks

[LouisB]

It's OK now, I've done some searching through the earlier pages and I think I've found a good set-up.

[mtracer]

I need some help here guys.......
I sold my MT Racer and now I have 600.00 burning a hole in my pocket!!

Im new to buggy's so Im not sure about the Ofna's

I was looking at the OFNA 9.5 MBX RTR Ready to Race
PART #34955 RTR

I dont need a RTR but thats all they have.....

Any suggestions.....



http://www.ofna.com/95mbx.html

[LouisB]

Originally posted by Scott H.
30 weight oil stock pistons front and rear
Black springs front and rear
19*-20* castor (whatever the middle angled C-arm is)
Front shocks: top center/inner hole on A-arm. I run on hard smooth non-rutted tracks. This would suck on rutted tracks as the front end dives on braking and bottoms on jump faces.
1.5* toe out front
-2* camber front and rear
Rear:
Stock built in anti-squat
2.5 degrees toe in rear
Top center hole outer middle A-arm hole for rear shocks.

No bottoming screws in front or rear A-arms.

Front and rear A-arms level.
Fat black rear anti-sway bar
Front skinny polished anti-sway bar
Brake biased ~65% to front.


I found this back on page 23 and used it today at the practice race (first time with a 1/8th)
All that I changed was to use the outer hole on the front tower, no front sway-bar and more rear braking.
Nitro buggy racing is restarting at my club after a season in 1995 and there are lots of H7s, some Kyoshos and a couple of Mugens. My car was dialed, everyone was asking what my set-up was. It was only an untimed practice but I could easily keep up with a Kanai 2 with RB engine, probably because the track is small, perfect for my Hyper 8 port:D it also jumps very well, nothing broke and the only time my engine stopped was when it was out of fuel, I think i ran about 11 tank fulls in 2 hours:)

[mtracer]

What engines are you guys running in your Hyper 7 pros?

I am purchasing a pro kit this week and I was overwhelmed when I started shopping for .21 and up...

Any help out there or suggestions.

I will be racing at my local track and a state series every now and then....

I was in 1/10 truck’s but needed a change....

Thanks

[BurnsDX]

I ran my H7 for the first time today, its light years ahead of my Burns. Almost done breaking in engine. Have a small problem, its seems my fuel tank is leaking at the cap.

http://www.members.cox.net/beechplt/h71.jpg

[haittmax]

Mine did too when I first got it. I found a rubber washer that some how fitted perfectly. I put that under the existing washer(covers the lip of the tank) no more leaks bro :D The washer came from the tank of some old pile of crap traxxas car I had laying around .....................Mike

[haittmax]

no one likes the H7 anymore?, did yas all go out and buy a 9.5? Screw the 9.5, lets talk H7..........................Love Mike:D :mad:

[mtracer]

Yep screw the 9.5!!!

I sold My MT Racer and ordered my Hyper 7 Pro!!

I should have my Hyper 7 Pro in 1 or 2 more days.....
I wasn't sure what engine to go with so I ordered the Ofna Hyper 21- 8 port......

After I put some miles on the 8port and hone my 1/10th truck skills over to a master 1/8 Jedi Buggy Pro I will get a RB concepts Engine...

Any suggestions on building my kit.......
Or a better Engine??
And thing to look out for???

Will be busy this weekend terrorizing the local squirrels and rabbits with the break in!!

See ya guys soon.......
I will post some pics later!!!!!

BYE BYE HPI!!!!!!

HELLO OFNA!!!!!

[redcarrot55]

I found something wierd about the Taiwan manufacturer of Hyper 7 Pro. First of all, the Ofna Hyper 7 link (http://ofna.com/h7pro.html) is broken. Emailed ofna asking why and when they'll have the link fixed but got no reply for days. Checked the Taiwan manufacture website (htp://www.hobao.com) and found the website was "under construction". Emailed to Ofna again asking them if Hyper 7 Pro is going to be discontinued, got no reply either. Sending another email pretending part lost in my kit, got reply. Any idea?

:confused:

[KOLOR KRAFT]

I JUST BOUGHT THE 7 PRO now there are going to be discuntinued ?.i need more info there web site is down. as far as RB go's the WS7 is awsome but don't rule out regulaur S7 i have that one for a back-up and it is also preety awsome.last but not least screw the 9.5..................:mad: your kit will probably be missing the upper shock screws and don't bother with the worthless purple springs other than that its pretty basic .GOOD LUCK its good to see people sti;; like the pro 7.

[OldskoolGT]

Therse is no need to worry, the Hyper 7 is gonna be around for awhile. There will be a new kit coming out with pivot ball front suspension and some other minor changes. The RTR kit with pivot ball suspension is gonna get some new cheaper metal pieces in place of some of the aluminnum pieces.

[soslo]

OHH MIKEEE!!! We WUV U 2!!! smootcheskisseshugs!! LOL!! ;)

I believe the new Hyper rtr is coming with a starter box also. Ya'll can say "Goodbye Pullstart!", for those who want to get the rtr.
This is the only link to HoBao I could find. There may be one in Japanese, but I duunnnooo?
http://www.moriseiki.com/users/users_0701e_hobao.html
I was told they can't speak English, so that may be why there is no website.
That link for the Hyper pro has been broken for a looonnngg time. Rob (Ofna webmaster) is working on the website, taking pictures of parts for individual model parts listings, options listings, and things like that. He will get it together one of these days... weeks... years??? LOL!! He took over not long ago,, but he is getting it there. He is having problems converting one format to another, or something like, that for the parts listings and pictures. If any of you are computer gurus', give him a holler. He is always open to helpful advise.
The best way to get hold of Ofna is to call them. They don't always reply to my emails either. When I called the other day, the phones were ringing off the wall, and they were shouting back and forth to each other for answers. They are just understaffed, I think. But they do try.
The Hyper 7 isn't going anywhere, only getting better. :)

[soslo]

mtracer.. Use red loktite on the steering knuckles, and blue everywhere else.
5000 front, 7000 center, and 1000 rear works pretty good. 40 wt. in the front shocks and 35 wt. in the rear shocks. Some use 35 front and 30 rear. It is just up to you.

I pogot!! Drill the front shock pistons to 55, and the rear to 54.

Hope this helps :)

[haittmax]

Any of u guys busting uprights? I am, ordered the upgrades.Cant wait for them lil f ers to come in. :D Love, Mike

ps.... the only thing i hait about Ofna is there web site, the damn ball chinners, also, they offer crap as far is upgrades go for the H7...................Love again, Mike

[redcarrot55]

Here is the answer I got from Ofna support:

"Try www.hyper7.org"

They didn't reply my question regarding if Hyper is going to
obsolete soon. In business term, I can take that as a "yes". Oh
well... Hope it'll stay long enough. I don't want to buy the
Hyper 7 Pro, only to end up hunting for parts a few months later.

Regarding what the Ofna's webmaster said about the broken link,
being a senior sotware engineer in Silicon Valley myself, I find
that hard to believe. There is something caled data backbup...
Their web-hoster must have the backup:

VitalStream, Inc.
1 Jenner, Suite 100
Irvine, CA 92618
US
949-743-2000, 949-727-9660 949-727-9660

So even if the whole website got wipe out by a cyber attack, they can bring
the whole back in probably hours. Anyway, sigh, another quality control
glitch. Yet I still think Hyper 7 Pro (the car) is a great buy!

For those who buy the Hyper 7 Pro in the recent months, Do you guys
get the alum shock towers or the graphite ones? I like the alum
towers more.

Thanks!

[windellmc]

It always came with aluminum shock towers. Only some of the press cars had the graphite towers. Avoid the graphite. The Hyper 7 pillowball suspension is supposed to be out soon but that will only mean a few new parts and both cars are supposed to stay in production just like the 9.5 vs 9.5 pillowball. Rumor is a new car will be out in 2004/2005. It will have about 90% new parts an be much lighter.

[Crashbot2001]

Originally posted by windellmc
It always came with aluminum shock towers. Only some of the press cars had the graphite towers. Avoid the graphite. The Hyper 7 pillowball suspension is supposed to be out soon but that will only mean a few new parts and both cars are supposed to stay in production just like the 9.5 vs 9.5 pillowball. Rumor is a new car will be out in 2004/2005. It will have about 90% new parts an be much lighter.

That's exactly what I heard.

[soslo]

2004/2005 huh?? hmmmm?? That will be enough time to wear this one out.
This one came with graphite towers. They hold up great. Especially considering some of the tumbles it has taken. The aluminum towers would have bent for sure. Well.. maybe, maybe not... The graphite is lighter, and sure does look nice anyway. Someone has to be different!! LOL!! :)

[redcarrot55]

Does anyone knwo where I can get a good deal for Hyper 7 Pro? The cheapest I can find is from Ultimate Hobbies for 399. That's still too expensive. where can I get one for about $300-$350? Hong Kong? Taiwan? Europe?

Thanks!

[OldskoolGT]

Somebody (I think it was Soslo) got his H7 for $285 in Japan. I believe they are around $300 in Taiwan.

[windellmc]

I don't know if these prices are current buy you could call and find out. http://www.heli-kraft.com/

They show a Hyper 7 pro for $340 and they are in the US. They also show a standard Hyper 7 kit for $200. I think it is an unassembled RTR car with no engine or electrics.

[soslo]

That isn't bad at all! It would well be worth a phone call.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

I COULDN'T FIND A PHONE NUMBER so i just e-mailed them on a pro kit to find out shipping charges. they are in the us??????? that is the cheapest i ever found i will be another one just for the parts. thanks for the link dude.

[mtracer]

Originally posted by redcarrot55
Does anyone knwo where I can get a good deal for Hyper 7 Pro? The cheapest I can find is from Ultimate Hobbies for 399. That's still too expensive. where can I get one for about $300-$350? Hong Kong? Taiwan? Europe?

Thanks!

Europe or any where over sea's will be 100.00 in freight!!

I just picked up my Hyper7 pro for 399.00

This guy has a e-bay store.......

SpeedZone Raceway


http://www.stores.ebay.com/id=45807460&ssPageName=L2

[mtracer]

any suggestions on glow plug for a Ofna 8port hyper 21

The nitro house told me McCoy #8 or #9

[redcarrot55]

Has anyone had experience with http://www.heli-kraft.com/? The price fo the Hyper 7 Pro sounds good enough. But it has not address, no phone #, and it doesn't mention how long it'll take to ship the product once the payment goes through. I wish they can accept credit card, that way I can always dispute a charge if the product is not shipped promptly. Not sure about how much protection I can have using paypal.

Please share your experience...

Thanks!

[OldskoolGT]

I don't think there is any recourse when using PayPal if something happens (like you get ripped off). The place seems sorta shady since they only accept PayPal or bank transfer and have no phone number or address.

[LouisB]

Originally posted by mtracer
any suggestions on glow plug for a Ofna 8port hyper 21

The nitro house told me McCoy #8 or #9

I run the McCoy #9 in my 8 port, it runs great:D

[redcarrot55]

I did a 2 minute background check about heli-kraft.com. Their ISP is not a real ISP but a ISP service reseller for tucow.com's products. I am not even sure if this sowebme.com is in the US! Belize is a country in Central America and is famous for tourist industry, unemployment and drug. Both heli-kraft and their "ISP" has no address, phone#, etc. This does ring a warning bell. I guess unless I have lots of good feedbacks from previous buyers, I'll pass this one. $50 more in ultimate hobby may be safer. Windellmc did you buy any stuff from them?

Is it possible that heli-kraft imports the Hyper 7 pro driectly from HoBao's taiwan distributor and being secretive is a way to avoid business law suits from US Ofna??? Their radio set is also in 27/40Mhz, which is for non-US.


------------------
Registrant:
Sowebme Belize
Belize
Belize
Belize, Belize --
BZ
0011


Domain Name: HELI-KRAFT.COM

Administrative Contact:
Team Belize, Sale sales@sowebme.com
Belize
Belize
Belize, Belize --
BZ
0011


Technical Contact:
Team Belize, Sale sales@sowebme.com
Belize
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Record last updated 07-17-2002 07:11:18 AM
Record expires on 12-20-2003
Record created on 12-20-2001

Domain servers in listed order:
NS1.SOWEBME.COM 208.155.64.43
NS2.SOWEBME.COM 208.155.64.44
--------------------
Domain Name: SOWEBME.COM
Registrar: TUCOWS, INC.
Whois Server: whois.opensrs.net
Referral URL: http://www.opensrs.org
Name Server: NS2.SOWEBME.COM
Name Server: NS1.SOWEBME.COM
Updated Date: 08-sep-2002

[LouisB]

How can I change the rear shock and camber link positions to allow easier rotation in the turn?

Thanks:)

[soslo]

The O.S. plugs (A5, A3, & #8) are 2 threads too short, mtracer. McCoy MC8 or 9, or the Ofna/Picco 51007 are what is called for with the Hyper .21.
Sounds like heli-craft needs a good checking out before anyone sends any money. They could get them from Taiwan, since they do mention HoBao. It would at least be nice to know where they are. They might be legit, then again???.. Ya' never know. I will see what i can find on em', after I get relaxed for the night.
Not quite sure what you are after LouisB. The stock positions work fine around here. This thing has got steering out the cozumbi. If you are running 5000 in the front diff, maybe 3000 would help if it is pushing around corners.

[mtracer]

Thanks for the Heads up on the Glow plug guys!!

Im putting my hyper together right now....

Which hub is best to use?? 19*. 20* degre or standard

[mtracer]

Also...

Is the Rear shock tower purple or black?????

My front is nice thick purple and the rear is thin black......

[soslo]

Carbon fiber (black) front and rear came with my son's pro kit. Haven't had any problems with them and the buggy has been through 5 races plus practice time.
Did slightly bend a front axle. The new "racing" universals are on order. They are supossed to be better, according to Angel.
My son likes the 17 on his. He says he has plenty of steering, and can cut down under the 7.5's (with their 22 degree hubs) in the corners. Some like the 20.. Try and see what you like best.

I can't find any more info than what you did redcarrot55.
Heli-Kraft may very well be a legit company, but the BBB has no listing for them, and I can't find them here either. http://www.belizecentral.com/
They are in S.America, so the shipping would eat up whatever $$ you are trying to save anyway. It would be best to save your pennies and get it from a U.S. company. Unless you know someone going to Japan on a business trip, and can get them to bring one back.
The new Hyper is coming out soon, so the price on the present version should (maybe) start dropping anyway. The main difference is the c hubs vs. the pivot ball anyway. The c hubs work just fine. Not planning on trading this one in anytime soon, for sure!
Guess we could all meet at the Jungle Monkey Cafe in Belize and check it out further! hehe!! Alright!! redcarrot55??... Oldskoolgt??.. Who's paying for the trip??? :)

[redcarrot55]

Good idea. I need a vacatoin anyway. Maybe we can have a "buggy tour" there. :D

Damn! Why don't I picked up a kit when i was in Horkaido last year! Spent too much money on my gf, leaving nothing for myself :rolleyes:

Thanks for your advise soslo. I think I'll buy the kit in ultimate hobbies. I'm pretty much done with my purchase list. Man... this time it's gonna cost $1400 for everything. This hobby is expensive.

[redcarrot55]

I know two versions. If people order the non US version (such as from UK or German), towers, server brace, center dif mount are black graphite and the wheels are drak gray. The Recent US (Ofna) version is has black alum towers and white wheels. Haven't heard of different colors (and material?) for front and real towers, though.

Here is some links:

recent German version:
http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/car/hobao/hyper7/hyper7build/hyper7intro.html

recent version from Ofna:
http://community.webshots.com/album/19944220JusSbMOHit

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

[LouisB]

soslo, if the stock positions work fine then I leave them alone;) I was just trying to get that little extra edge but it already handles better than the others:D

[soslo]

I don't see where there are 2 different shock towers any where else either.
http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/hob_hyp7p.htm
http://www.Three5models.co.uk/
I would call Ofna and find out what is going on, mtracer. The Pro kit should have carbon fibre, front and rear. Don't email, they may not get back to you. They stay on the phones most of the time.
The guy that brought this kit back from Japan also brought a set of the new universals back. They were packaged in a bag with a rear shock tower number. Maybe the person that packaged them just got back from their opium or sakki break.:confused: Who knows?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

Originally posted by redcarrot55
I did a 2 minute background check about heli-kraft.com. Their ISP is not a real ISP but a ISP service reseller for tucow.com's products. I am not even sure if this sowebme.com is in the US! Belize is a country in Central America and is famous for tourist industry, unemployment and drug. Both heli-kraft and their "ISP" has no address, phone#, etc. This does ring a warning bell. I guess unless I have lots of good feedbacks from previous buyers, I'll pass this one. $50 more in ultimate hobby may be safer. Windellmc did you buy any stuff from them?

Is it possible that heli-kraft imports the Hyper 7 pro driectly from HoBao's taiwan distributor and being secretive is a way to avoid business law suits from US Ofna??? Their radio set is also in 27/40Mhz, which is for non-US.


------------------
Registrant:
Sowebme Belize
Belize
Belize
Belize, Belize --
BZ
0011


Domain Name: HELI-KRAFT.COM

Administrative Contact:
Team Belize, Sale sales@sowebme.com
Belize
Belize
Belize, Belize --
BZ
0011


Technical Contact:
Team Belize, Sale sales@sowebme.com
Belize
Belize
Belize, Belize --
BZ
0011


Record last updated 07-17-2002 07:11:18 AM
Record expires on 12-20-2003
Record created on 12-20-2001

Domain servers in listed order:
NS1.SOWEBME.COM 208.155.64.43
NS2.SOWEBME.COM 208.155.64.44
--------------------
Domain Name: SOWEBME.COM
Registrar: TUCOWS, INC.
Whois Server: whois.opensrs.net
Referral URL: http://www.opensrs.org
Name Server: NS2.SOWEBME.COM
Name Server: NS1.SOWEBME.COM
Updated Date: 08-sep-2002
i got an e-mail from them today and shipping will be 70 .00 dollars and he didn't tell me were he was located i just e-mail them again to find ouy were they really were.

[mtracer]

I have graphite steering plate and servo holder ,trans ponder holder...

The Box says Hyper 7 PRO-R

[mtracer]

It has the grey rims with some cheesy tires.....

But it does have 2 aluminum braces.....

here are some pics.....

http://web.tampabay.rr.com/mtracer/hyper7.htm

[KOLOR KRAFT]

that is the same box mine came in i have graffite radio tray a transponder mount and steering plate. aluminum braces and shock towers but i have white wheels and some fuzzy looking tires.?

[mtracer]

Anyone have quad brakes on thier hyper 7 pro....

I set them up on mine,.......the fly wheel rubs the bolt on the brake hub.....

So I guess it isnt suposed to be a quad set up??

[p.n.e]

hey guys, does the engine mounting position on the hyper 7 permit the use of a drill started like the yank eliminator? thanks.

[prevelige]

mtracer-

the quad setup on my pro works great with no rubbing or drag. Check the assembly again. Cheers,

Bob

[redcarrot55]

Originally posted by KOLOR KRAFT
that is the same box mine came in i have graffite radio tray a transponder mount and steering plate. aluminum braces and shock towers but i have white wheels and some fuzzy looking tires.?

Hmm... that's confusing. Everyone got a bit different Hyper 7 Pro. Oh well, I guess as long as we got good quality parts, the colors and materials shouldn't matter too much.

[soslo]

My son's pro came in this box, with all the options shown here.
http://www.three5models.co.uk/hobao_hyper7_data.htm
It had the white wheels with muti-spike (fuzzy) tires though. The tires aren't available over here either. They would probably be great for smooth or blue groove tracks, but not worth a dang otherwise. They wear quick, and the foams are waaay too soft.
This one came with HoBao "Fun Buggy" stickers for the side windows, instead of the Ofna "Hyper Team" stickers. Anyone want some "Fun Buggy" stickers?? hehe!!

The tracks in Europe are much more civil than the tracks over here. When the Crono came over here, one of the guys selling them sent a video to the Crono people showing how the racing was here. He said they had a cow when they saw it, and started changing things on the buggy!! LOL!!

Maybe that is why there are different versions of the Pro. Some people don't like the carbon fiber towers, and some do. Maybe they are just trying to make everyone happy, or just trying to figure out what works best?
I duuunnooo?? :)

[BurnsDX]

mtracer

My kit came with white rims and purple front and rear towers. I am using the quad brakes and it is real close to the flywheel but it clears. i dont have that spacer under the bolts for the brakes. I just got this kit this month.

[soslo]

The rear brake setup is close, but it does clear. I am constantly keeping an eye on it. It just bugs me! LOL!! :) It doesn't create any problem otherwise.

[OldskoolGT]

mtracer,

can you move the engine rearward in the mounts? My flywheel has plenty of clearance if I move the engine back a bit.

[mtracer]

I messed up and followed the directions.....

They are pretty vague.....

I used spacers like they show in the instructions.....

SO I removed the spacers and now its fine.....

All I got to say for the 8 Port Hyper .21 is dam my forearm hurts.....

That engine is a little too tight.....

Why did I sell my starter box and get a pull start??

I miss it.......

When the say to set the Low end neddle 3.5 turns out from flush. they dont mean screw it all the way in then 3.5 turns out are they??

They mean turn it out untill its flush with the slide then 3.5 turns from there?? Right??

[mtracer]

1 more thing on the 8 port hyper .21.....

IT SUCKS!!!!!!

The spring in the pull start bound up.....
So after 3 tanks of break in.......now I have to buy a new pull start!!

Ofna's not leaving a good first impression with me!!!!

Hopefully they will back up their product.....

18.00 for a new pull start just might be the straw to break the camel's back.......

[soslo]

And... Another one bites th dust.
Use short, quick strokes, when pulling the rope.
You can get the non-pullstart back plate, a starter box also.
We had to take the glow plug out of the Hyper .21, in order to get it to turn over and break in, even with a starter box. Had to spin it over like that for a minute or 2, to get it to loosen up a little, so the starter box would turn it over. We were breaking a Crono motor in yesterday, and had to do the same thing. Even the O.S. motors are tight when new. Most of the good ones usually are tight, until you get them broken in. It has to do with how long the piston/sleeve will last. If you get one that spins over easily when new, it won't last long.
I have the regualar .21, and it is a 3 needle setup.
Are you sure it didn't say the top needle 3 1/2 turns out from bottom, and the screw on the slide flush? If it has the brass screw, below the top needle, just pretend it isn't there. It should be flush as well, if you do have it.

[OldskoolGT]

I got some of the revised front lower suspension arms from Nitrohouse. They are much more rigid than the old ones, so hopefully they will help in the handling department. Just thought I would give everyone a heads up on the new parts.

[soslo]

Hey OldskoolGT...
Is it a running production change, and is 19024 still the #? The nitrohouse website seems to be going through some changes.

[mtracer]

Do you guys get all or most of your parts from nitro house??


I'm use to Tower Hobbies having all my parts that I need....

They dont carry hardley any Ofna parts.......

How is Nitro house's stock, should be pretty good being next door to Ofna.....

[OldskoolGT]

I am not sure what the part number is for the new arms. The package the arms came in did not have one of those labels with the part # on it.

Nitrohose is very good for parts. They have some good sale prices on stuff too. I think Nitrohouse is owned by Ofna because they use the same address (22692 Granite Way Suite B).

[p.n.e]

does anyone have an answer to my question above about the yank eliminator? its made by shumacher. otherwise i will just get a starter box.

maybe the reason your hyper 7's have different parts is because some of them are directly from hoboa and others are from ofna? correct me if i'm wrong.:confused:

[soslo]

Don't think they make the yank eliminator for the .21, plus the rear shock tower would be in the way. Get a starter box.
The only difference in the Hobao numbers, and the Ofna numbers are the 1st 2 numbers. Instead of 19024 (Ofna) for the arms, it would be 87024 (HoBao))
hehe!! No wonder they keep pushing nitrohouse on the website, OldskoolGT. I never paid any attention to it before.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

HEY HELI-KRAFT is in Belize the web site go's to tawain he is the rep for the company thats were they get sent from is what he said through his e-mails. shipping is 70 bucks i think i will stick to purchasing in the usa.............

[coyote660]

hey MT...if you want...send your broken pull start back to ofna with a note and they'll replace it...a box will eliminate the problem if you don't mind luggin it around...

[mtracer]

I sent the pull start back to ofna today.....

So after Friday night and Saturday afternoon, with much ANTICIPATION of tearing up the back yard with this bad a#@ Hyper 7 Pro- it sits in front of me lifeless!!

Nothing more disappointing than putting all that hardwork in and having to wait longer!!

SO IF MY LOCAL HOBBY SHOP STOCKED Ofna PARTS I WOULD BE OUT RIPPING IT UP<<<<>BUT NOOOOOO ALL THEY HAVE ARE TMAXX AND ASSOCIATED STADIUM CRAP!!!!! NO OFFENCE GUYS

So I called Nitro House and ordered a new one....
I guess the replacement one from ofna will be a back up!
(weeks later)

[redcarrot55]

check this out:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDUS7&P=7

$850 for a new Hyper 7 RTR with starter box? That's pricy!

[soslo]

Yep.. It is that.. for sure!
Wonder what all it comes with? It isn't even on the Ofna site yet, or Nitrohouse.
If it comes with good parts, a starter box, decent engine, and awsome electronics, it MIGHT be worth it, for the beginner racer.
It still ain't cheap!! For a RTR??? That is unheard of. Unless it is awsome. We shall see.
Tower always boosts the price on new things anyway, to get the suckers who have to have the "latest and greatest" of everything, and don't care about blowing the money to get it 1st. The price will drop when the newness wears off, and all the stores have them.
That is still a lot of money for a RTR!

[OldskoolGT]

The Tower price is always really high (like MSRP) before they get the product in stock.

[haittmax]

I have a question. what is that plastic tab that sticks out from the servo tray? right next to the steering servo, its held on by 2 screws. I took it off, cant figure out what its for.......thanx, Mike