Associated RC10GT Forum v6.0

[chachi]

i bought an rpm receiver box for my old style rtr gt. when it is mounted, it interferes with the steering servo horn movement. anybody else had this problem? will it only work on the longer team and factory team chassis?

[Pro3/nmt105]

Do any of you guys use shock bladders on your gt's shocks? I have trouble filling my shocks so that they feel the same and so they dont have alot of air in them, and somebody told me bladders make it much easier to fill you shocks and seperate the air from the oil. Another guy said gs bladders and ae shocks work very smoothly. What are the effect of bladders on performance and handeling and just the shocks in general? and can somebody give me a link on tower to some bladders that will work on ae shocks.

Thanks

[stealthpenguin]

I have the same problem, chachi. I have the team factory chassis and it does the same thing

[tipper]

Hi this message is very important to everybody running a ae.15 engine. I took my truck in for a toon up and the guy started it up and each screw came out of the crank case head and the head flew off. The aluminum is very week in there the screws stripped right out. :confused:

[Draxx]

I guess the obvious question is who tuned the engine and are you sure they did not damage it in the process?

[NoPulse]

I cant see the screws stripping out when I use locktite in there. The cast aluminum seems like its is a fair grade. I own 2 AE 15 engines, and they both disasemble, and assemble fine.
Good luck on buying another engine.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Do any of you guys use shock bladders on your gt's shocks? I have trouble filling my shocks so.....they dont have alot of air in them.....

I don't, and you will always have air, here is why:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=119999#post952205

When they say to expell the air, they are saying the air under the piston so it doesn't give you a "false" fill. Shocks are to control the speed at which the shock travels, not the suspension of the chassis.If you have trouble getting them to feel the same, maybe it's because your seals are putting different pressure on the shafts? Got any over-squashed or improperly installed?

[tipper]

oh well I fixed my engine and threded it with 4-40 threads. I also just bought the picco xp-.15 and I don't know how to break it in. The ae runs fine now.:)

[dog8spam]

Is a shock bladder the same as a resivior?

I was also wondereing if anyone knew who suplied Associateds bearings.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Does anyone know if you have to fill the cap with oil when building shocks? because I think this is what causes my problems. I fill the cap and some of the oil spills out when Im putting it on and diffrent amounts of oil spill out when I do diffrent shocks so the rebound is diffrent and I have to spill some out of some of them which usually causes me to get alot of air in the shocks.

[Henry G]

Hey guys, I got my rc10gt + today! Well, I was wondering how to mount the Battery holder. I can't manage to figure it out. Well, this is my first nitro, and I was wondering how I tell if my reciever batteries are low, and if I run out while i'm out driving, will it run outta control?:confused:
Can't wait to drive it! I live out in Utah, so I'll have to talk my parents into going down to the salt flats and flooring it!:D :D :D :D :D

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
I just finished by paint-job, and would like to share my pics of my car. But, there are a few too many for me to post them all, so here's a link instead!

My RC10GT pictures (http://benjimo.home.attbi.com/pics/rc10gt-gallery/index.htm)

Tell me what you think!
That one of the sweetest paint jobs Ive ever seen! Not that detailed but the colors and the small flames look awsome. What color paints and what brand paint did you use and who makes that mask with the smalll flames?

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Henry G
Hey guys, I got my rc10gt + today! Well, I was wondering how to mount the Battery holder. I can't manage to figure it out. Well, this is my first nitro, and I was wondering how I tell if my reciever batteries are low, and if I run out while i'm out driving, will it run outta control?:confused:
Can't wait to drive it! I live out in Utah, so I'll have to talk my parents into going down to the salt flats and flooring it!:D :D :D :D :D
If the reciever batteries are low you will notice the stering servo getting slow and having a loss of power and the car will wander slightly but still remain in your control usually. if you notice any of these symptoms immediatly change the reciever batteries. If they run out while you are driving and you dont have a failsafe or throttle return spring your car will go off but it self with the servos in the same spot they where right when you lost radio control, so if you were goint wot when you lost control, our truck will go off by itself in wot.

[stealthpenguin]

Mask: Parma Fire & Ice

Paint:
Outlaw Black (main-color)
Briliant Blue (drips)
Flourescent Blue (flames)
Sprint White (back the flour. blue)
Indy Silver (roll bars)
Sprint White (for final coat)

[bubbastump]

well i got another 1/2 gallon in os 12 cv which makes 8 gallons.
only problem is 1. im loosing compression when hot but tightens up when cools which isnt a problem that much. the real problem i was running wot and filter popped off there isnt alot of dust on track so im gonna rebuild motor and clean it out . should i go ahead and put my cv-r on it or hold the cvr till i get my new gt for a race only truck?

[stealthpenguin]

I would think that your CV is near the end of its life. Although, if you just use it for bashing, you may want to get a new piston/sleeve for it and use the CV-R for racing (which is awesome by the way).

[trxstr1961]

need help... im changing fuels,from cool power to o'donnels, 15% to 20% anything i should know about doing it before i run my car??

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
....Does anyone know if you have to fill the cap with oil when building shocks?

No, just push the piston up and "dome it." SteveK brought over the text from RC10.com and it has their full instructions in this thread:
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=119999#post951081


Originally posted by Henry G
...I was wondering how to mount the Battery holder.......I'll have to talk my parents into going down to the salt flats and flooring it!

Welcom to the board Henry, but do observe a few precautions:

You should really use rechargeable nicads or NIMH batteries for your receiver pack, and always make sure they have a good charge. If you lose power to the receiver (esp. if the plug comes out or the switch gets bumped off) it can indeed go off on you. Here's today's disaster:
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=120555

Batt Pack: You should see 4 slots in the rear bumper, two up by where the shock tower mounts and two near the back. Get some 6-8" zip ties, thread two of them through those slots, drop the pack in and zip it snug. Yes, you'll have to remove it every time so get a good supply of zips. :D Don't you have a manual? It should be in there, if you don't you can download one from http://www.teamassociated.com .

Listen to this one very very closely: Your idea of going to the flats is good, but flooring it can be dangerous ans once you do you're not going to want to let up! Anything more than three seconds or so at full wide open throttle can be deadly to your engine. Here's a perfect example, complete with pics, and comments by Steve Pond:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=119543

His engine was a week old!

OK NOW GO HAVE SOME FUN AND KICK SOME 'TOOIE!

[stealthpenguin]

You can also buy adjustable zip-ties, that have a little lever on them so you can un-zip them. They cost a little bit more, but you won't have to waste 2 zip ties everytime you run it

Also, there are little plastic devices that clamp over the connection of the radio -> battery, making it impossible for them to become dettached.

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by bubbastump
well i got another 1/2 gallon in os 12 cv which makes 8 gallons.
only problem is 1. im loosing compression when hot but tightens up when cools which isnt a problem that much. the real problem i was running wot and filter popped off there isnt alot of dust on track so im gonna rebuild motor and clean it out . should i go ahead and put my cv-r on it or hold the cvr till i get my new gt for a race only truck?

You lost your filter before the tree thing or after? :p
The track has claimed a few RCs in it's day, so don't feel to bad.

Was that a monkey ball or an air filter? :eek:

[bubbastump]

u hush
well gettin new gt was pushed back
i just spent 180 bux that i was gonna use toward new gt
to pay the animal hospital. but by end of april I WILL HAVE A NEW GT
i just want my pup to be ok before i get it

[Henry G]

Hey it's me again, I was just wondering if you guys had any tips on breaking in the engine? I have the manual on how to do it, I just don't want to blow my engine. I think it's called the nitro star FE. It's a .15

[bubbastump]

set low end flush and high end 2 1/2 turns out
start and run at idle 4 5 min.
shut off cool down
repeat 2 x
start put around slow for about 1/2 tank and let coollean out low end 1/16 turn put around slow for other half
keepin engine close to 195-200 degrees
lean low end 1/16 turn put to drive slow i/1 tank and cool
2x
lean 1/16 and drive slow full tank
cool
lean 1/16 drive slow with half throttle bursts
cool
lean 1/16 drive half throttle with full bursts
fine tune and have fun
thats what i did with os .12 cv

[tipper]

Hi I just got a Team Trinity Picco XP .15 an it has the new carb style the stand settings are 4.5 turns out of high and 2 turns out on low with throttle wide open. I have my idel on 1/8th of an inch. I can't get it started when I brake it in. The longest it runs is 2 sec and it has to run longer for breke in I have a new glow plug. I have a charged glow igniter. I have fresh 20% fuel I need help I can't think of anything esle to do. I don't want to open the carb or it will reck it in break in.:confused:

[offroadcrazy01]

Am thinking about trading my gt for a losi xxx-nt I don't bash any more I just race I know the xxx-nt brakes more but alot of people say it handle's and jump' better then the gt.Also kinwald has some parts that help it not brake as much.what do you guys think any info would help It seems like associated does not care anymore .I'm confused which car to keep I have both of them.I have won alot of sport-man races with my Gt now am thinking about racing exp at my lhs track hotrodhobbies.com

[trickedoutGT]

Hi guys. I am not new to R/C. But I am new to stadium trucks. I picked up a RC10GT with Paris pipe and OS .12 CVR. Is this a good combo? And If I run a MIP Stinger will it hurt the engine?Also theres almost every RPM part made on this truck. Thanks guys. I will have pics when I receive the car.

[tipper]

Originally posted by offroadcrazy01
Am thinking about trading my gt for a losi xxx-nt I don't bash any more I just race I know the xxx-nt brakes more but alot of people say it handle's and jump' better then the gt.Also kinwald has some parts that help it not brake as much.what do you guys think any info would help It seems like associated does not care anymore .I'm confused which car to keep I have both of them.I have won alot of sport-man races with my Gt now am thinking about racing exp at my lhs track hotrodhobbies.com

Keep your GT it is a great truck and I know ae dosen't care anymore. They woun't help me but I personaly don't like the xxx-nt because it handles diffrent. Brion also has parts for the gt and alot of the xxx-nt parts fit the gt
keep your truck :D

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Henry G
.....tips on breaking in the engine?...I think it's called the nitro star FE. ...... it's a .15 ......

Originally posted by bubbastump
.... set low end flush and high end 2 1/2 turns out ..

bubba that works for the OS but if the nitro star .15 is anything like the nitro star .12, it's too lean and the N.S. .12 does not have a low speed needle.

The nitro star .12 I had required about 4 turns out to get it started and in the zone, so on break in that's where I'd start, but the rest of his break in procedure is probably safe.

Go to the HPI site, you can download a manual for it there and it should have more info on your breakin.

[bubbastump]

well its tues night and opening day is sunday . i was doin a once over for the 5th time and noticed something new. my cvd is bent .
i straightened it out most of the way. im a lil behind on money right now the animal hospital took most of my last check and bills got rest. should i cash in piggy bank and get new ones and if so what kind? stock or mip??
please help

[Conman]

I just got a GT FT. What starterbox should I buy. Cheap is good.

[Conman]

There is no comp. between stock and MIP units. Get the MIP CVD or you'll wish you did.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Conman
I just got a GT FT. What starterbox should I buy.....

Ofna Universal box, single or dual motor will work. The rear wheel touches the motor casing on the single motor version, but it works and people say it has more torque than the duallie. I haven't found this to be true, I have both boxes, and you can rebuild the dualie version with regular mod motors when the time comes.

If you really want CHEAP, pick one up on eBay with the intention of having to do some work on it, which you probably will have to, you can get them from $35-$65.

Bubba the shiny CVD's are pretty cool, the only difference between those and the black ones is the chrome plating.

[bad viking]

Hi

I just can keep my batterypack on my GT
I have tryed zips offcourse and dobbelsided tape. but it it always falls off. What can I do???

Bad Viking

[chickenmobilin]

I just use Zip ties , and have some really nasty wrecks , never came off.

[bubbastump]

http://groups.msn.com/mdrcracing
look at last 2 pics i have done alot of summersaults and flips never came off
did you strap it this way?

[bubbastump]

never mind it didnt go in yet
ill try later

[bubbastump]

yeah it did page 2 under pics

[NoPulse]

What do you mean AE doesnt care any more about RC10GT?

[bad viking]

Hi
how thick is your zips, the type i use is maybe a little thin.
Ïts just so imbaresing every time my pack falls off during a race!
By the way, I have a FT. Is there even more good stuff I can get on my truck that makes it go faster/better?

The GT rocks!!!


The BAD Viking

[Polk]

Ignore this, im just resubscribing to the thread........

[bubbastump]

faster is not allways better
if u saw my local track u would see what i mean
but fast is cool but be prepared to get more parts due to them breaking

[BTE214]

does it fall out the side? Or do the zip ties break? i use thick zip ties and then rubber band it accross it'll never fall off

[1tuffRC10]

I sure did miss this forum. What happened to all of our posts? House cleaning time? LOL

[offroadcrazy01]

Bad viking take out the pad and just shoe gue the pack to the battery tray then use the zip ties

[offroadcrazy01]

make sure the zip tie are nice and thick and long so you can pull them real tight

[offroadcrazy01]

Any body live in vegas and see any of the silver state nitro challenge there are alot of big names there. I wonder who is winning

[geo8498]

Just bolted some Gladiators onto my RC10...and man I have to say, they are now my favorite tires.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
I sure did miss this forum. What happened to all of our posts? House cleaning time? LOL Asit turns out the popularity of the GT reflected by the outrageous length of the thread demanded a revision and rebuild of the database. :D

In English, they broke it up into sections, see GT Threads v. 1.0, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0, and 5.0.

[bubbastump]

this is what i use to tighten zip ties its much better than the channel lock method and it cuts it

well its allready posted somewhere in v 5.0 somewhere after p 14

[bad viking]

My zips are long enough, but im not shure if they are thick enough.
My pack does not slide out of its place, the zips always breakes somwhere and falls of.
Can any of you apply a picture of you patterypack-selution?

[speedydave]

My GT battery setup (http://community.webshots.com/photo/54487854/66165591hMbqpo)

[bubbastump]

whooo hoooo opening day tommorow track looks great ill post pics tonight for yall to see

i worked 12.5 hours overtime this week , so that mean new gt on payday whooo hoooo

[Polk]

Interesting how such a small thing such as battery mounting can give such a prolonged disscusion isnt it!

My setup:

[Polk]

And for the noobs out there, this is how I mount my battery plug thing...

[Polk]

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, check out my tranny brace! This thing is ment to be straight!

[Polk]

Hmm, interesting how since i land mosgt of my jumps upside down the brace can be that bent! Will that affect my pefor,ance in any way?

And finally, my chassis....used to be so clean and scratch free...*sniff*

[trickedoutGT]

The next bad landing might make the chassis flex but i dont think it would hurt performance.

[PackerlandRJ]

Looking to get a new engine what would you say to be the best .12 or .15 what brand? I see alot of OS what is the difference between cvr and cvrx Willing to spend 100- 175 Please tell me what you know Thanks

[trickedoutGT]

Hey man I have a .12 OS CVR and it flys. I am going to put my RB X12 Turbo Pipe in:cool: . Anyways the difference is the CVRX has a pullstart while the CVR doesn't.

I'd get a OS simply because they're reliable and powerful.

[PackerlandRJ]

Im looking to get a new engine. What would you say to be the best one for the GT. Willing to spend 100-175 I see alot of OS what is the difference between cvr and cvrx? would a .12 or .15 be better. I will be raceing eventually How are the associated engines? Tell me what you know Thanks

[PackerlandRJ]

Sorry I screwed up didnt think it went through the first time

[PackerlandRJ]

How much of a difference between a .12 and a .15 OS

[trickedoutGT]

the .12s have slightly less power than the .15s. But more RPMs I think.

[Polk]

.15 are not ROAR legal.....

[speedydave]

Polk, you think that's scratched? Have a look at this.

[Conman]

What in the H*LL did that to your chassis?

[Conman]

I've got a FT GT. My rear camber links rub the front of the springs. What can I do to stopp this?

[trickedoutGT]

You call that scratched?:p

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid58/p8e91c1139f5dddce18aa2a3cac6d47ad/fc62e93a.jpg

[RC10's]

Is anyone elses chassis bent like this? It is bent at a good 5-10 degrees. Enough to make the body mounts not line up with the body anymore. I was going to buy a stock chassis to replace it but I figured it would just bend again. Anyone know of a better chassis? by the way the chassis was bent due to a run in with a curb (not my fault; run away, it sucked).

[Polk]

Jeez man, why dont you just buff that up and say it was silver in the first place!!!

I guess the first few scratches are alwyas the hardest...

Can i re straighten my tranny brace?

Will chassis flex damage any other components?

Would buying the help?Trinity tranny brace (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMA03&P=7)


Thanks guys.

[bubbastump]

yes it would
i should be asleep i gotta be at track in 3 hours
here is an updated group of pics the last few
http://www.msnusers.com/mdrcracing/shoebox.msnw

[Wallis Racing]

yes polk,
i say that the kinwald/trinity rear tranny brace is the best you can get. and pretty cheap too. my stock one was bent like yours, if not worse, then i got the kinwald one and havent had a prob.

RC10-
yeah, my stock chassis was like that as a result of 2 RB Concept X12 GT's going head to head at WOT :S
i got the hammad Ghuman(sp?) chassis, but i hate it and dont recomend it. it is made for the old style GT, but it doesnt say that on their site now does it:rolleyes: with the HG chassis you have to grind part of it away to use non-pull engine mounts. the stock GT front tube mounts dont fit. the tubes are also too short. its more crowded, only standard servos fit in the steering spot, anything bigger requirres mods. and the conter sinking on the bottom of it is not right so all the screws stick out. NO BODY GET THE HG CHASSIS!!!!
spend an extra $40 and get the Hard Core Ti chassis! also, if your chassis is bent, you can bet your ass that your front tubes are also bent. the only after market tubes avalaible are for GPM. they make ti and steal ones, but if you get the Hard Core chassis, stock tubes should be sweet.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
........Can i re straighten my tranny brace?
Will chassis flex damage any other components?..........

Polk with the tranny brace all tweaked like that I suspect something else is going on. It's plastic and something is putting enough force on it to twist it up like that. Are your bulkhead screws worked lose, or is the bulkhead broken? That's the knotty 3" X 3" square vertical thing that the shock towers, ball ends, and tranny all bolt to to attach to the chassis. I've broken a few . . .

If you have any flex at all between the rear tranny mounts and the engine, the spur gear will bounce off the pinion and strip it for sure, just for starters.

Originally posted by RC10's
...........the chassis was bent due to a run in with a curb.......

Stay out of the street! Curbs are the worst.

Just dissasemble it and bend it back into shape.

[1tuffRC10]

That plastic tranny "brace" you are talking about is junk. It won't brace anything IMHO. What "gives to bend that is the rear of the chassis between the tranny and bulkhead. This is caused by landing jumps on the rear or extreme end over end rolls. It allows the bulkhead to move closer to the tranny and causes the body not to fit right anymore. It will also cause the rear bulkhead to break. The Trinity Kinwald brace is the best I've seen so far.


TrickedoutGT, that looks like my chassis! LOL It's been a good one.:D


With a bent chassis in the front, caster in the front and ride height is so far off you can't hurt it by trying to straighten it. If you are just bashing in the street or yard, it'll be just fine if you straighten it. Remove all the stuff in the way and put the top against the end of a two by four and "beat" the hump out of it on the bottom. You can use a straight edge along the bottom to check your progress. BTW That pic of the bent chassis probably has some "bow" at the rear too.

[Polk]

Ohhh yes, i have rolled the GT many many times after a jump!

Mainly cause the jump i am using is not equal and striaght so if i hit the wrong part of it...uh oh....

Rocknbil, does your LHS stock that Trinity brace?

Thanks guys, i love this place :)

[vector]

what is a good pipe for the .15 OS hyper.

[bubbastump]

well opening race is over
it went bad i had many many probs.
overall in 1/10 nitro i got 12th
4th in b main
i have a big supply list for lhs tommorow
i bought a used gt for 100 bux w/ motor another cvr
chasis has few scraches in it
everything evcept the radio and wheels
ill give yall he list of things and show some boo boo pics
after i take a long hot shower

[Polk]

I dont spose anyone has a Trinity Tranny brace lying around that the dont want? Im willing to pay for it!

Post here, PM me, or email me at adrianf@paradise.net.nz

:)

[bubbastump]

im gonna order from tower soon
as soon as i upload these pics to pc and finish all these pm and im i will post em up

[bubbastump]

ok qual 1 had no traction just wanted to spin
well i never checked shocks due to being out till 3 am doin karaoke
so after 1st qual i rebuilt shocks ( get gs shock kits ) they are awesome
second quall engine wouldnt stay runnin
idle to low
set it up and ran a run time ran out b4 i made a full lap
i had no pit man for that qual
shoulda put starter under stand instead of runnin back to pit table
3rd quall tried a different set of tires worked great track startin to bluegroove then front right stoch open ball cup broke off exhaust header came loose and lost motor mount screw
fixed all that
then i happened to qual for b main by some miricale
started was doin great was gettin happy then murphys law
blew off back left shock cap after 3 laps of runnin with 3 shocks cvd popped out and cracked rear bulkhead

[bubbastump]

a brief pic

[bubbastump]

heres another
and when i set idle up a bit i saw dust in carb i pulled off head (which i dont like to do there) flushed carb and did a quick peek for scratches 8+ gallons of fuel still ok noticed i had a short plug in so i left shim out made a difference. thats why i never got a full lap in

[bubbastump]

now in the a main 2 buds had problems
notice the zip ties holding a arm together thats a quick fix

[bubbastump]

and anothe one had the same thing that happened to me last year except he got to goback and race (with a losi rim and tire)

[bubbastump]

http://www.msnusers.com/mdrcracing/shoebox.msnw
if yall want to see all pics from track

[bad viking]

Well, I am thinking to upgrade my GT FT.
I am thinking about buy the os 12cv-r. How well does this engine preform on the truck?
And, is there any point in buying a new tunepipe insted of the Factory Team pipe?

Bad Viking

[bubbastump]

the cvr is great not sure bout the pipe i only used the ft pipe seems good
most of my buds stick with the ft pipe also

[doesgo]

I hate to ask because I'm sure it's been discussed before, but a search of the AE forum showed nothing, nor did manually searching several pages of this forum, so here goes...

I'm getting a low-budget, older GT roller soon and I have a used O.S .15 CV-X as well as a used Ofna Force .21 on hand. Obviously the .21 is considerably more powerful than the O.S., but is it "too powerful" (if there is such a thing) for the GT? Will it be a nightmare to drive?

What does it take to convert to a .21 engine in a tub chassis GT? I see New Era has a kit for $120, but is a major kit like that necessary? I can't afford that, so if it's necessary, I'll go with the O.S.

Any opinions? Thanks in advance.

[stealthpenguin]

I noticed that my front body posts do not match up perfectly with my body holes (though they were pre-marked), it was also the same issue with the stock body.

Could this be because my chassis is bent at the front?

But, my tubes are not bent, so it may be due to the flexibility of the stock plastic tube mounts

If this is indeed the case, I may decide to invest in a Ti chassis, as well as the Trinity tube mounts.

Viking:

I have the .12 CV-R in my GT-FT with the stock pipe, and I must say that I am very pleased with the results. I use Dynamite 20% Blue Thunder, which burns significantly cooler than most fuels, and therefore allowed me to lean it out 1/4 - 1/2 a turn more than with my Wildcat 20% Qwickfire+ (Eliminator).

The CV-R has a great amount of torque, but still has some top-end as well. Just tune it well and you'll be a competitor.

[Nitroooo]

Hey guys, what with all this RC 10GT v6.0, v5.0, v4.0 and so on. Is there any difference since they updated last week?

[bubbastump]

to many pages slowed down server so they seperat it for more speed
the only down side is that every time they start a new version is u have to find it and re subscribe

[mike80corvette]

where does the on/off switch mount to

[bubbastump]

to the rear shock tower

[1tuffRC10]

bubbastump, Is that broken front wheel an AE? If it is, I have noticed that the yellow wheels (AE) seem to be weaker than the white ones. I had a set on the rear and twisted the centers out of them. I don't mean where they fit on the axel but the "vanes" comming out from there.

mike80corvette, mount that thing where you want but on the rear shock tower is not the best place IMO. I have been hit in the rear and had my switch and wiring taken out before. I use no switch and just plug the wires together beside the throttle servo.

stealthpenguin, yes your chassis is the problem. It's not going to be much good anymore but you can straighten it.

I'm not sure what OS is going to do with the CV-R. With the prices going down it makes you wonder if it will be around much longer. The TR is great. It has more power than the CV-R and the rear exhaust is easier to work with.

[RC10's]

yes we have discucessed the .21 several times. The only way to make it work is to completely upgrade the entire drivetrain which = moneyb which you dont have. The .15 will have plenty of power, it is a light truck and its only 2WD so you will be spinning the tires anyways.

[doesgo]

Thanks RC10's. Not really what I wanted to hear, but that's better than diving into the project and having problems.

O.S. .15 CV-X it is! I got my Savage, 1/8 Ofna buggy, and old RC10T running again tonight, so I can't wait to receive the GT and start working on that!

[doesgo]

Sorry, itchy trigger finger.

[bubbastump]

actually that was a rear whell that the hub broke loose on
the price of the cvr is going back up

[stealthpenguin]

I'm buying a 4-shoe flywheel for my GT FT (using AE teflon shoes), as well as a 15T CB.

How will this affect my acceleration?

BTW, my chassis problem is VERY minor. Minor enough that it is impossible to see it, and my body posts still fit in the holes, although they are about 2mm off.

[bubbastump]

dude get the mip 4n1 clutch
and get the ultralight flywheel
u will never want anything different
with the clutch u can add weights to affect how it works

[1tuffRC10]

I've heard some good about the 4 shoe clutch but I like the MIP also. But I run the heavy flywheel on a TR to keep the rears from spinning so quick. Not too sure about those yellow wheels still, or the CV-R. Kind of like my TR better now. It has a bigger carb and a much better looking rod than a CV-R. Also the head with the insert is nice. Wish someone made a bigger head for it though!

[trickedoutGT]

Hey does anybody know if theres a maximum size of the hole in the windshield for racing? Thanks

[NoPulse]

2" diameter hole. I use a 2" hole bit to cut out the hole.
Its ROAR rules that require 2"

[TommyT]

Hey All,

My son and I run our trucks mostly on some baseball fields near our home. The grass in the outfield is very short and the ground is hard. The clay is hard and dusty.

We run mostly on the grass but also use second base as a turn. A few more cones and a couple of home made ramps complete the circuit.

We can't seem to get much traction in the front on either the grass or the clay while going fast. Yes the servo is holding the turn but, the front end just seems to float above the ground.

We are using ProLine BowTie T's and Fuzzie T's on the rear of our trucks They seem to work very well. But we are still using the stock tires in the front.

The stock tires up front are in good shape and to me would/should provide good cornering traction but they dont!!!

What tires do you recommend for the front for these conditions?

Thanks in advance,
TommyT

[crazy1]

I thought the 2 inch rule was for touring cars. That you could remove up to half the front windshield for off road two wheel drive trucks. Help some one, am I cheating with half the front windshield gone?

[bubbastump]

half the window is ok at my track on roar races

try movin spacers from behind to the front of rear wheels that should help alot

[BTE214]

Tommy you should add some stick on lead weight that should keep the front end down Yeah i agree half the winshield

[trickedoutGT]

Cool. Thanks guys.

[TommyT]

One other thing.

I once read a post about a friction brake that uses a metal band around the outside of a drum. It was supposed to be a better setup without the fade.

Can someone provide me with a link to the person that makes them.

Thanks,
TommyT

[bubbastump]

tommy
now that i read what i said , it dont make sense
on the rear hubs there is a little spacer on the hinge pin make sure it is on the front side
here is that site u were askin bout
http://www.rc10gthobby.com/index.html

[TommyT]

Lead?!

I thought I should try to keep the truck as light a possible?

Right now the Center of Gravity is about 4" in front of the rear axle. Looking from the top, that seems about right to me.

Hey, I don't know but, lead just doesn't seem right to me. You guys should know.

Anyway, sooner or later we will need a new set of front treads anyway. So what do you recommend for a baseball field with short grass and dry hard clay.

TommyT

[bubbastump]

stay away from grass clay is cool
do u know what i mean bout spacer?
and yes ive put led on it b4
alot of people do
its in like 1/8 ounce bars break off what u need and stick it on
try the spacer first if u dont know what im talkin bout let me know i will post a pic 4 u

[TommyT]

bubbastump

The spacer is on the rear side of the hinge pin and axle. This is the stock location.

I should move it to the front?

TommyT

[bubbastump]

yes it doesnt look like much but i makes a big difference

it lengthens wheelbase giving better handiling

it took me 10 x reading book to find out

[TommyT]

Thanks Guys,

The link to the Cresensi Brake is what I was looking for.

Will move the spacer first then add lead if that doesn't help.

Now I still need some recommendations for a set of tires for the front.

TommyT

[bubbastump]

stock r the best i like there the sonics (http://www.teamtrinity.com/tires/1-10truck.asp)
the sonics seem to work real well
have fun

[RC10's]

I have never like the blade style tires that come on the stuck trucks, by design they just dont seem like they would work well and i have never felt that they do. Unfortantely i was never able to come up with a better solution. However i recently bought 4 pro-line "dirt works" (PN#1072-00). They provide excellent traction front and rear but are larger in diamater then stock so it raises the truck a little more then I would like, but they traction is excellent. The Pro-line "dirt hawg II" (PN#1070-00) looks good also and doest appear to be as large in diameter. I will try those next. good luck.....

[1tuffRC10]

Tommy, we call that "pushing". The way I got rid of it was to run step pins in the front as well as the rear. I've heard all the crap about the step pins are for the rear only but I recently saw some of the "team" drivers using rear tires on the front of their GT's. If you don't want to use new tires for the front, wore steps work well too. Remember that it is hard for any off road to have much steering while on 'da gas!

[stealthpenguin]

So, the MIP clutch and the ultralight flywheel will give me better acceleration?

Can someone give me a link to the ultralight flywheel?

What's the best way to remove the flywheel?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by TommyT
...Now I still need some recommendations for a set of tires for the front.....

I line the Pro-Line Edge tires.

TommyT two other things will help:

Railman turned me on to drag brake, the concept that when you let off the throttle the brake is set to apply just a little braking action. Not only does this make for smooth decelleration going into turns, the slight change shifts the weight forward dramatically, providing more bite up front.

As Tuff says if your turns have a lot of or hard accelleration, this tends to lift the nose and there is something you can do about that, at least a little. The problem is actually addressed with your rear suspension.

When you hit the throttle hard, an RC will try to "squat-" the rear end will drop from the torque. Inversely this reduces weight from the front. Fiddle with different anti-squat blocks and heavier oil and springs to reduce the squat. If you can do that, you reduce the amount of traction lost up front.

You can test it by watching closely, seeing how much it squats when you nail the throttle from a dead stop before you make any changes.

Keep in mind this will help with high-speed turns where you have a lot of goose on the gas but if you push it too far you'll give up a little rear traction and some low-speed turning. The trick is to find a place where it's a good balance for all.

[BTE214]

First you need to remove the clutch nut. The best wayis to get a crank lock tool http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD567&P=7 Im sure there are other ways this is the one i know works and wont dent the piston as people think (why make a tool that wrecks your engine?) After you get the nut off You can use a battery terminal puller flywheel wrench or tap it off with a rubber mallet.

[trickedoutGT]

I just use a popsicle stick and put it in the exhaust hole.

[bubbastump]

trickedoutGT I just use a popsicle stick and put it in the exhaust hole


that will try to push sleave out

just get a flywheel wrench
i had a piston stop untill it messed up piston
then it went dumpster diving

[trickedoutGT]

Anybody know if 2 shoes will fit/work on a four shoe flywheel? I bought the wrong shoes and forgot that my flywheel was 4 shoe(the fat one) flywheel. looks like i'll need to cut the shoes too.

[TommyT]

Originally posted by rocknbil

Railman turned me on to drag brake, the concept that when you let off the throttle the brake is set to apply just a little braking action. Not only does this make for smooth decelleration going into turns, the slight change shifts the weight forward dramatically, providing more bite up front.

When you hit the throttle hard, an RC will try to "squat-" the rear end will drop from the torque. Inversely this reduces weight from the front. Fiddle with different anti-squat blocks and heavier oil and springs to reduce the squat. If you can do that, you reduce the amount of traction lost up front. [/B]

I was thinking of getting the Crescenzi break. Is that the "drag brake" you are talking about?

What springs do you recommend for the front/back? I have the stock silver up front and the Green in the back. Should I get the Associated spring kit or do most guys run only one or two different sets?

Thanks for the reply,
TommyT

[TommyT]

I think it is about time to get a starter box also.

I'd like it to have a lot of torque. I guess narrow is better? (A neighbor has a wide box and the left tire pushes against the box while starting. Pins/Knobs that are supposed to align the body to the starter wheel also don't fit propperly. I can't remember who makes the box though.)

Which one do you recommend?

TommyT

[trickedoutGT]

Get the Pink narrow box from Ofna. Gobs of torque:)

[bubbastump]

ugh with springs i use 25 oil front 30 rear
gold front green rear
what u need to do is jump it if it lands on nose go to a firmer spring

did the spacer make a difference

[trickedoutGT]

Originally posted by trickedoutGT
Anybody know if 2 shoes will fit/work on a four shoe flywheel? I bought the wrong shoes and forgot that my flywheel was 4 shoe(the fat one) flywheel. looks like i'll need to cut the shoes too. .

[TommyT]

Originally posted by bubbastump
ugh with springs i use 25 oil front 30 rear
gold front green rear
what u need to do is jump it if it lands on nose go to a firmer spring
did the spacer make a difference

Thanks Trick and Bubba.

We didn't get a chance to go out today. Will go out tomorrow and see about the spacer.

Firmer spring in front or rear?

TommyT

[bubbastump]

just get 2 more shoes and cut em to fit
or get new flywheel
or get right shoes
6 or 1/2 dozen it dont matter

[crazy1]

My clucth bell bearings go out all the time. every three tanks. Why? I have replaced the entire clucth assembly including the engine in case the engine output shaft wobble made them go bad. Have tried bushings and they fail after one tank! Have tried MIP clutch with and with out weights. trailing and leading clutch shoes. The gear spacing is correct. Before this started hapening ran three gallons on a set of clucth bell bearings. Have read other threads and have tried what they say. Even going so far as to oil the clutch bell bearings. I give up.

[bubbastump]

dont give up
check your mesh
and alignment
use a strip of paper put between clutch and spur hold em tight and tighten it down
u can allways just get bushings for clutch
the only time they make friction is when at idle

[bubbastump]

r the e clips coming off?
after u put the e clip on squeeze it tight and add a small drop of silicone to the open area

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by TommyT
I was thinking of getting the Crescenzi break. Is that the "drag brake" you are talking about?.......

No drag brake is a condition, not a type. You just adjust your brake linkage so at dead neutral there is a slight bit of brake applied.

And yes, by all means have a set of springs! I change them around all the time, but generally I'm going to say for extreme high speed turns expirament with higher tensions, maybe blues or golds, and oils in the 35-40 range? You have to have a variety to play around with.

BUBBA - back up a few posts, he was trying to get more front traction in extremely high-speed turns.

Originally posted by crazy1
My clucth bell bearings go out all the time. every three tanks. Why?

You say you replaced all - did you replace the clutch shaft? That's a very common thing. If you didn't that will be it.

If you did - how high is your idle speed? Have you got brake applied at idle, enough to keep it from rolling a little bit when you release the throttle? You could be just toasting them from idle friction.

Is you gear lash being set correctly? Too tight and it will put all the wrong pressure on the bearings.

Are you using any slipper at all or is it locked down tight? Adjust your slipper so it at least slips a little under hard accelleration.

[Polk]

Will losi rims work on the GT?

What mods will they need?

My LHS only stocks losi you see, so i need new tires and rims!!!

[1tuffRC10]

crazy1, what kind of bearings are you using? Need more Info.

[stealthpenguin]

Polk, Losi rims fit perfectly onto the GT w/o any mods.

[The King]

Ok Polk you asked for it, I am here. I havent ran my GT because there is water all over. You know me I might hit it.

Check out the new home page: http://kingtime.2ya.com/

[vector]

Does anybody know if the associated rpm tuned pipe is better than a stock ft muffler?

[crazy1]

All types of beraings form Assc. stock, Dynamite Red Seal, and Boca Bearings brands. Changed over to a clutch & flywheel assembly from an old Losi NXT. Bearly fits on cut of motor shaft. But was able to run thru three tanks of nitro and still have working bearings. At one time I thought the clutch pads were rubbing on front of clutch bell..

[bubbastump]

u thought what makes u think that?

[TommyT]

Who has the best value in wheel bearings?

I just did a thorough cleaning of our trucks and I noticed that a few of our stock AE bearings sound like they have some grit in them. (We run on clay and short grass mostly but, of our trucks only have a little over 2 gal. through them total)

Is it normal for AE bearings to go out after a little over a gallon of fuel?

Are the bearings shot? Should I try blowing them out with some WD-40 or soak them in something? How can I prevent this from happening again? I guess thew next set should be sealed? I want a decent bearing but, we don't need super/de/duper/de $$$ racing bearings. Just don't want to replace them with every gallon or two of fuel. Who has the best value in bearings?

TommyT
BTW, it seems we do have a little more turn authority with the moved spacer but, I will try a stiffer set of springs and better treads as soon as I get to the LHS before adding weight.
Also, much better turning with the drag brake so thanks bubba and rocknbil :)

[bubbastump]

np tommy thats why this thread is here
get the basic sealed bearings at lhs
clean with brake cleaner and add a drop of afterrun oil
the only bearings i had to replace r the clitch bearings
and thats cause the e clip kept comin off
since then i squeeze em tight and put a small drop of silicon on opening to help keep it tight

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
Polk, Losi rims fit perfectly onto the GT w/o any mods.

Well any newer GT's with 3/16" axles, if you have oldstyle 1/4" axles you have to drill them out but it will still work.

So the front's are the same bearings? I can't remember. :D

[TommyT]

Hey all,

I was just at my LHS and I had another customer talk me into getting a set of Associated Universal Dogbones instead of CVD's. See: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2559&P=7

He said that he raced RC10GT for 4 years before recently going to 1:8 scale buggys. He also said that a lot of people had problems with the Associated CVD's and therefore ran the universals instead.

All I have ever read about is to get CVD's. Did I go wrong with the Universals?

TommyT

[bubbastump]

no u didnt
get a syriange and squirt grease into universal every time u run it and u should have no problems

[bubbastump]

well i finished rebuilding gt and went ahead and put cvr in it
gettin ready for sunday so hopefuly i wont break

[tipper]

well guys I have a problem I rebuilt my diff and my top dirve, diff and another gear in the tran allhave a chip in. when I drive it u godr thump thimp thump or pushing it it makes a rotation then u have to push it harder to get past the chip. what should I do buy new gears because I really can't afford them just bought brand new picco engine:eek:

[Polk]

I went and picked up some yellow Losi dish rims and some Losi step pins, just finished glueing em.

They look so..so.. 'Fugly" yellow rear rims, front white rims, and a yellow body!

[ross]

Originally posted by tipper
well guys I have a problem I rebuilt my diff and my top dirve, diff and another gear in the tran allhave a chip in. when I drive it u godr thump thimp thump or pushing it it makes a rotation then u have to push it harder to get past the chip. what should I do buy new gears because I really can't afford them just bought brand new picco engine:eek:

Your only option is to buy new gears, the chip has probaly been caused by dirt or grit getting into the gearbox and chewing the gears up. Another possibility is that you ran the slipper to tight and then were doing jumps or something, remember to use that slipper!!

If you use standard Associated gears it shouldnt cost you that much:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2864&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3396&P=7

Tower didnt have the topshaft on thier site.

Polk,

I have heard that Losi rims make the truck wider because they hae a different offset so if your racing where they have rules that the truck must be a certain width then you may not be able to use them rims.

bubbastump,

You will not be dissapointed with the CVR, Ive had mine since christmas. Its fast, reliable, easy to tune and keeps it tune, idles forever and runs cool.........perfect engine!

TommyT,

My pal at racin who has been racing far longer than I have and knows quite a bit and he told me to stick with my dogbones rather than go to CVD's because the pins are quite easy to snap with CVD's. Im not sure if the Universals are stronger though but I cant see how you can go wrong with them.

[bubbastump]

the universal is at the tire side of the cvd as long as u keep em lubed they should be fine and its eaisier on gears
and allowws more shock action
what costs more a new set of pins or a new dogbone?
ill stick with cvd
piano wire makes great pins:D

[Polk]

Yea i noticed that ross, the losi tires are quite a lot wider than the stock ones i had, not the rims as much, but the tire is...weird...

[dog8spam]

What is all the different versions?

[ross]

Dunno if anyone knows anything about a new GT thats in development? Ive heard this of a friend, who was asked to supply a 'techinial wish list' to associated for the new GT. He told me this last year and said that he thinks it a while off yet but that its well into development. But associated arent letting away much so god knows when we know even a approximate date. Hopefully it will be a completly new design that will kick some losi ass. Not that theres anything wrong with the current one but I think it needs to be updated to bring the suspension a bit more up to date.

[tipper]

what is a good alterain tire to get I am on road alot and on grass dirt everything.They have to be good for jumping to. I also need a good suspention got any ideas:D

[trickedoutGT]

I really like the Proline "Bowties" in the rear and the Proline "Edges" up front.

[Conman]

I Just got a FT GT a month ago. The stupid switch wire wasn't long enough so I had to zip-tie it to the tront of the throttle servo mount. The JR XR3i is a great radio thou. What starter box works good a GT?

[trickedoutGT]

Conman-I recommend the Pink Ofna Narrow box. Excellent for starting a GT. Because this box is narrow, the tires ont hit the box, thus, easier starting.

[TommyT]

I just got the narrow stainless OFNA starter box. (the only one my LHS had that was narrow) It uses a single 750 motor with a belt drive and it's very powerfull. 12v Gel-cell and charger is included.

I have two complaints though. 1. You have to almost completely disassemble the box to switch the drive train around to fit the GT:( 2. The pins to align the chassis in the rear are just a little too short. They just barely hold the rear bumper/battery tray in alignment. 1/8" longer would be perfect.

Anyone know what to use to raise the rear alignment pins 1/8 to 1/4 inch or how about an alternative?

TommyT

[bubbastump]

i think u can use a rubber pad type thing from local hardware store
i gott goto bed race day
whooo
hooooo
ill let yall know how it turns out

[1tuffRC10]

My OFNA starter box has a piece that the rear bumper fits into nicely. No problems cranking any AEGT. Not sure where it came from as I bought the box used.

Ross, the losi wheels will make a GT narrower. The offset on the wheels is different.

[ross]

tipper,

IMO you can not beat Proline Gladiators for all round bashing, they hook up great onroad and are excellent in the dirt and on grass. They also have a good life span.

Conman,

Im using the Thunder Tiger starter box, Associated also do one which is exactly the same except with thier name on. Its excellent turns over my very tight CVR over without any problem, and it comes with 12v leads and the leads for 2 x 7.2v batteries. The GT fits on it great, ive got it so the two rear posts are in the corner where rear bumber and the wishbone are on each and the front posts are holding the chassis just where the front brace mounts are, this means the truck doesnt move off the starter box so you can tune it on there. You can get it at tower here:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLZ9&P=7


Tommy T,

Try putting some washers underneath the mounting posts to raise them, but then you may need to use longer screws.

[geo8498]

I agree. I've run the Gladiators on just about any surface. They hook up great and are very durable. They also look good.

[stealthpenguin]

Ross, you run the Glads ON road? Doesn't that wear them down quickly?

[vector]

Does anybody know if the associated RPM tuned pipe is better than the ft muffler?


I run Gladiators on road and off they work excellent. When you buy them make sure there the hard compound ones.

[ross]

Originally posted by vector
Does anybody know if the associated RPM tuned pipe is better than the ft muffler?


I run Gladiators on road and off they work excellent. When you buy them make sure there the hard compound ones.

Its better for some applications, it depends what type of track you run on. If your running oval then the RPM pipe would probaly be better but for tight offroad tracks then the FT pipe would be better.

[tipper]

I need a tuned pipe. I am willing to pay as much as 100 dollars for one I am also looking for a non stock front bulk head. I also need more hop ups have to much
$$$$$$ got all rpm stuff but need more also have new engine picco xp .15 and new tires and rims

thanks

[offroadcrazy01]

The ae pipe and manifold are the best on the market even the pro 's use it save your money bro if you want a up grade it a faster motor like a mugen or os-tr just my 2 cent

[ross]

Originally posted by offroadcrazy01
The ae pipe and manifold are the best on the market even the pro 's use it save your money bro if you want a up grade it a faster motor like a mugen or os-tr just my 2 cent

Its arguable that the AE pipe is the best on the market some people prefer different things but AE pipe would be a good choice. Also look at the Novarossi pipes and the TL Adam Drake pipe.

[tipper]

ok well I will just get a ae or ofna but what about upgrade to make it lighter I don't really race I just jump. I need strong and light parts no aluminum.

[trickedoutGT]

Well I use the RB X12 Turbo pipe. This this is a pain to get the opening into the coupler because the opening is the size of a .21 pipe. It makes my GT FLY!!! Wow it goes over bumps and ditches like its just regular smooth pavement!

[Conman]

What fuel do you guys think is the best for the GT?

[geo8498]

Speaking of TL Drake pipe... is there any considerable difference between the Adam Drake and AE's RPM pipe? I was considering the AE RPM pipe from Tower, but my LHS has the Drake. Which would I be better off getting? Looking for speed with my OS Hyper .15 CVX. Right now, I'm running the stock pipe from my GT Plus.

[ross]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
Ross, you run the Glads ON road? Doesn't that wear them down quickly?

Yep, I run the glads onroad quite alot, I even used them for racing once when we had a special event on tarmac and Ive still got the same set now which I used on hard dirt the other day. Mine have only showed little signs of wear because obviously all tyres wear eventually. And they will wear quicker on road if you do lots of slides and donuts and stuff, but i say stuff it and have some fun!

Conman,
Everybody has different opinions on fuel, I use Tornado 16% but use the fuel that your LHS regualary stocks, there nothing worse than keeping changing your fuel because you cant get hold of the first type you used.

geo8498,
Despite appearances the TL Drake pipe has really amazing bottom end, even though it looks like a pipe that would give you a stronger mid range/top end. One thing you should note is that Associated's RPM tuned pipe is exactly the same has the pipe that comes with your RTR plus, if you look the design is exactly the same but its just available in different colours. So if you still want more top end then look around for other pipes.

[bubbastump]

tough day at the races
qualled 1st in b main then bumped into a main
downhill from there
next to last in a main was my finish

wheel came off bent cvd worse
a couple flame outs (shoulda changed to a new glow plug used same as breakin)
oh whell maybe in 2 weeks ill be better
i need some advice
after i upload all my pics i need to know if i got gipped or a good deal

[RC10's]

my favorite tires for everything are the pro-line dirt works. They grip amazingly well on and off-road and dont wear that fast on road, great tires. For suspension set-up dont go too stiff i like 30 weight oil front 35 rear, try them with the green or silver springs (soft), you want your suspension to flex so you get a smoother ride off-road.

[trickedoutGT]

Originally posted by Conman
What fuel do you guys think is the best for the GT? I use Odonnell 20%. It smells nasty but its prolly the best fuel out there!:)

[tipper]

Originally posted by trickedoutGT
I use Odonnell 20%. It smells nasty but its prolly the best fuel out there!:)

I use byrons 20% fuel because it has good oil content and it give you the power you need. I smells really good to sotof minty

[Mystracing]

bubbastump, and all you other GT owners check out the www at the bottom of my post. It's new and all for you.

[Henry G]

I tried to start up my engine for the first time today. I had it set really rich, with idle also set high. It wouldn't start. I read the troublshooting section. It said it could be flooded. So, I took off glow plug, and air filter, turned it upside down, and no fuel came out. I also noticed that there was some fuel around the bottom of the heatsink, and around the glow plug. I can't get it to start! :mad: :confused: :mad: :confused: :mad:

[Henry G]

more newbie questions, how can I test my glow plug? How do I drain my gas tank? I tried siphling it out using a drinking straw. Those fumes taste horrible. I don't wanna leave the gas in there. I'm pulling my hair out over my car!

[ross]

HenryG,

Yeah, I was going to suggest that you check your glo plug, simply take it and and put it in your glo igintor and if it starts to glow a bright orange then its fine if not then you need a new plug or your glo ignitor needs to be charged. Make sure your mixture settings are has they say in the manual. If you glo plug is OK and the mixture settings are correct I cant why else it wont start.

To drain your tank, take the fuel line off the carb and put it into your fuel bottle, then take the pressure line out of the exhaust and blow down it.

Mystracing,
Nice work on the forum, im just signing up for it. :)

[stealthpenguin]

Those are all easily solved!

To test the glow plug, simply take it out of the engine cylinder head, and touch it to your glow-plug warmer. It should start glowing a bright orange almost instantly.

To get the fuel out of your tank, just disconnect the tubing leading to your carb. Then, string the tubing under your pipe, so that it has a totally downward path. Then just put your bottle of fuel under the tubing, and wait! Elevate your car on a high shelf, or just put the fuel bottle on the ground. Either way, just make sure that the tubing never goes up.

[stealthpenguin]

Dammit Ross! You beat me to it!

[Polk]

Ball cups...


I have the RPM ball cups and they suck, they always pop off, is there any product out there that wont pop off as much? Even the smallest hit takes these things off!

Thanks

[trickedoutGT]

Polk, I don't know if this is recommended but you could drill out the cup of the ball cup thing so theres a hole. Then you could put a screw with the screwhead being larger than the hole of course and screw the screw into the thing where the ball was. Sounds confusing but its rather easy.

[Henry G]

how long do your glow igniters last? mine is a rechargeable 1400 1.2 v red-glo starter. I used it a ton today, when I tested 2 glo plugs nottin happened. I think that could be causing my troublds. I'm a newbie if you can't tell:rolleyes:

[Henry G]

AHHHHHHHHHH! How do you guys drain the fuel? the hose is like 2.5 inches long! It's so short! I opened up the lid to let the air displace fuel and I had it tipped and some spilled out! I can't get it!:confused: :confused:

[ross]

Polk,

This is the same basic idea has trickoutGT's but no offence to trickout, its better if you buy 'captured joints' or 'rose joints' from your LHS because they include balls which allow your suspension to travel smoother.

You can see them on the back of my truck here, they are yellow:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ross2000/newpics/truck14small.JPG

HenryG,
Did you see my post above about draining the fuel? Has for your glo ignitor, the only way to tell is to put it on charge for 12 hours and then see if the plugs glo.

[trickedoutGT]

My "version" is for people on a budget:D

[dog8spam]

how long do your glow igniters last? mine is a rechargeable 1400 1.2 v red-glo starter. I used it a ton today, when I tested 2 glo plugs nottin happened. I think that could be causing my troublds. I'm a newbie if you can't tell

I cant even read the label on mine its been thrown around and abused so much. They should last about forever.

[Polk]

I heard about somoene who used Traxxas ball ends?? Any thoughts?


My LHS's here suck, they dont have anything for the GT, or anything gas for that matter, ive got tons of spare ball cups so maybe ill try the drilling thing i saw it in RCCA once when they looked at I think it was, Mike Pavids's car.

[Henry G]

Originally posted by dog8spam
I cant even read the label on mine its been thrown around and abused so much. They should last about forever.
Sorry, I shoulda phrased that better. I mean how much time can u use it before ya gotta charge it. That fuel tube is SO SHORT! I keep spilling! I smell like nitro!

[Henry G]

Well, I figured it out. Electric is 20 times easier. But nitro is 20 times more fun. I have one tank through it. Nitro is so much fun to drive! The smell, sound, speed. I love it!

[speedydave]

Alright guys, I'm giving my GT one last chance. I've messed with tires, springs, oil, ride height, etc, and I still can't get it to handle halfway how I want it to handle. It's pretty easy to drive, but it isn't always predictable. What I mean is, it likes to spin out in some turns, and it pushes everywhere else. It usually spins out in the high speed sweepers and pushes in low speed turns. Also, the big thing that bugs me is that it's attitude in the air is quite unpredictable. Usually, it will go pretty steeply nose down on larger jumps, and despite me nailing the gas, it won't really correct itself much. Occasionally it will go nose up instead, and when i slam the brakes, it does next to nothing. I can preload the suspension by letting off before the jump and then accelerating up the jump's face, but then I usually can't clear the jump all the time(usually tap the rear of the truck on the top of the jump and spin out or flip). Currently running silver front springs, green rear. Oil is 30wt all the way around. Front ride hight is arms barely below level, rear ride height is bones barely below level. Any help at all guys? I haven't driven a XXXNT yet, but they look like they're more dialed out on the track than most of the GT's I've seen(especially mine). Also, I'm in the market for a new engine. Any suggestions? If possible, i'd rather not have to cut the crank, and Tower just "discontinued"(i don't know if the engine istelf is discontinued or if they just ran out and aren't stocking them any more) the .12 CVR(S), which is what I was planning on buying. Thanks for any help you may be able to offer!

[1tuffRC10]

henry g, sounds like you got everything figured out. LOL

polk, I run Traxxas and AE captured ends everywhere but the center link and the link from the servo to the bell crank. It works for me but if you hit a wall, well something has to give. AE#6471 are the ends. They have a metal insert that is designed for shock rod ends.

Ross that looks like my truck that I just finished this weekend. It's been a while since I had a new chassis, well everything else too. Just I have a TR with Drake pipe and step pins all around.

To get the fuel out of a truck, empty fuel bottle, squeeze bottle and put in lowest point of tank and let suction take care of the rest. To get it all out just crank it up.

[1tuffRC10]

speedydave, check your slipper and diff. What clutch are you using?

[speedydave]

MIP 4-n-1 with weights installed, trailing position.

[Mystracing]

speedydave - Hit the www button below my post and check out the setup I oput in the setup section. What your describing is a couple problems, but mainly the way your shocks are limited.

Tuff - Did you check out the www button?

[Henry G]

Well tuff rc, I got one more question. Where do you apply after run oil? I bought some, now where do I put it? In the venturi? take out the plug and apply it to the piston? i dunno......
thanx in advance, sorry to bug you guys with newbie questions:rolleyes:

[RC Longtime]

Hey peeps new guy here great posts and valuable
info... just wondering if i could get some thoughts
on running the truck without foams in the front tires.
Anybody doing this, or have done this any input on handling
differences would be great. Just finished building a
FTGT and would like to know berfore glueing on the tires.

[trickedoutGT]

Henry G- I put the After Run Oil in the Glow Plug hole(a couple of drops) and then pull the pullstart a couple of times without the plug on or put it on your starter box then bump it a couple of times.

[Polk]

Can i use a starter box with stock flywheel and mounts?

[RC10's]

yes you can, it may not work quite as effectivly as it could but it will work.

[RC10's]

rc longtime, i would not reccomend running without the foams, the tires will be to flimsy and will give in to pressuer during hard cornering and jumping, your welcome to try it but i wouldnt reccomend it

[bubbastump]

try using a soft foam insert

[ross]

Polk,

Yes you can, it works fine. No different from using non pullstart engine mounts.


Im not sure why Associated glue the tyres to the wheels with thier team built kits but then dont include foams! Is it the same on the GT RTR?

[Henry G]

what do I do if I have too much compression? When i pull the starter, it is really dificult to pull, if it moves at all.

[Henry G]

Originally posted by ross
Polk,

Im not sure why Associated glue the tyres to the wheels with thier team built kits but then dont include foams! Is it the same on the GT RTR?

my gt + rtr came with foam inserts and the tires were glued to the rims. I figured I'd actually answer a question for a change:rolleyes:

[bubbastump]

i will get that pic to yall for an estimate of whats it worth
i been nusy with work

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Henry G
....Where do you apply after run oil? I bought some, now where do I put it? In the venturi?.....

There's a great deal of argument on this one, but here's my why and how:

The fuel travels through the engine through the carb, right? Your ARO should do the same. OS engines says "a few drops is only good if that's all your crankcase holds" and recommends a teaspoon. So that's what you do: remove the filter, open the throttle full (not running of course!!) and put about a teaspoon down the carb AIR inlet, then crank the engine over a few times to cycle it through the engine. The idea is to DISPLACE any moisture inside your engine.

Before anyone says it, when OS engines says in their manual not to put ARO in the FUEL inlet, they state on their site they are talking about where the fuel line goes into the carb, the fuel inlet, not the air inlet. The air inlet is fine.

WHY I DO NOT PUT IT IN THE GLOW HOLE:

This article by Steve Pond demonstrates that compression is definately lost be constantly removing the glow plug, it compromises the gasket seal:

http://www.rccaraction.com/rn/articles/super_tune2.asp

Also, think about it: you drop it in the glow hole and crank the engine. An engine with any compression at all is going to blow all or most of it right out the exhaust hole when you turn it over! :D

Lastly, Automatic Transmissin Fluid and Marvel Mystery Oil are perfectly viable substitutes for the $3/oz ARO your LHS sells you, they both have the lube and water displacement qualities required.


Originally posted by RC Longtime
... just wondering if i could get some thoughts
on running the truck without foams in the front tires.....

Offroad definately not, but I remove them for an on-road set, they seem to stand up well and give tons more traction.

[ross]

Originally posted by Henry G
what do I do if I have too much compression? When i pull the starter, it is really dificult to pull, if it moves at all.

Loosen the plug just enough so you can turn the engine over, when the engine starts tighten it back up.

rocknbill,

Thanks for that, So far I havent started to regulary use any type of after run oil in my engine, although its still relatively new. I was instructed to spray a blast of WD-40 into my cylinder after each race, which I did last week. But I think Im going to start using oil.

[stealthpenguin]

Henry, you're engine may be flooded. When you over-prime your engine (put too much fuel into it), it can become 'water-locked', and it will not be able to cycle the engine.

Don't pull on your pull starter too hard, or else you may break your pull starter, or worse, break your connecting rod.

Like Ross suggested, take out your glow-plug, and pull on your pull starter to get rid of any excess fuel (you may see fuel coming out of the glow-plug hole).

[RC Longtime]

thanks guys i guess ill go with the foams. It just
takes some effort to get them half a$$ balanced in there
to eliminate the wabble factor....

[ross]

Originally posted by RC Longtime
thanks guys i guess ill go with the foams. It just
takes some effort to get them half a$$ balanced in there
to eliminate the wabble factor....

Ive had the problem with some tyres. Try cutting the sharpe edge of the foams on both sides. But only cut a bit off, just so its flat.

[bubbastump]

when cutting foams is it better to cot inside or outside edges?

[ross]

Originally posted by bubbastump
when cutting foams is it better to cot inside or outside edges?

Normally outside, but you can do both.

[bubbastump]

thanks
man i just blew my lid on the thread of my lacal track

[1tuffRC10]

Well I got my new truck together finally! Ran one tank in the yard and it is much better than the wore out POS that I was running.

mysticracing, I'll try to get signed up on your site soon, been busy moving helping with new track, cleaning the pool, etc.... Looks good.

My bad, I don't use after run oil but makes sence to put it in the carb air intake to get to the carb too.

rclongtime, I run step pins on the front, no push with them. LOL

speedydave, That's the way I use it but I trim some of the trailing edge off to allow the engine to rev a little more before the clutch engages. As for the handling problems I still need more info e mail at RC10RULES@aol.com. I'll try to help.

[1tuffRC10]

bubbastump, what u do dat for?:eek:

polk, contact AE and they should make it right. I know of at least one more that had that problem and they took care of it. Makes you wonder about quality control. Monkeys on an assembly line! Saving money, who knows LOL

[pitchblend]

has anyone put a traxxas 2.5 in their gt? comments

[1tuffRC10]

pitchblend, I don't know why you would want to but it would be tough with the Traxxas clutch and crank set up. Seems to be a good engine so far.

[Polk]

Does anyone know if this will work on the RTR Plus GT?
Heres some dimensions:
13cm wide.
28 long.
Wheel is 15cm in from the end without the 2 white pegs.

Thanks!
Sorry for the crap pic.....

[stealthpenguin]

I don't see why not... plus, you can adjust those white pegs so that they DO fit your GT.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by ross
....I was instructed to spray a blast of WD-40 into my cylinder after each race, which I did last week......

Well I should probably say that a lot of people use WD-40 as ARO, and it should work because WD stands for Water Displacement and that's the whole point. If you know WD-40 though, it probably wouldn't be great for long-term storage as the solvents in it do evaporate and leave that gummy WD-40 grease . . .

Originally posted by Polk
Does anyone know if this will work on the RTR Plus GT?

Well Polk it may just be the scale of the pic, but it looks like it's too wide. Is this box where you can get to it? If so, and the truck sits evenly on the top with the wheels hanging free over the sides and the doughnut lines up with your flywheel it's a go.

[ross]

Polk,

The only thing that you might have a problem with is the back. The wheel looks to far forward for the back mouting holes to reach the bumber or wishbones on the GT. So you might have to drill some of your own holes to get a nice fit on there.

rocknbill,
Thanks for that, i never store my truck for a long time because that would be boring :). I plan on starting to use after run oil, I only used WD-40 because I never had any after run with me.

[pitchblend]

does anyone have any experiance with hpi nitro mt racer. Im wondering if its as a solid as the ftgt other than the 4wd, anyone ever raced against one? thanks

[ross]

Not a chance that the NMT is tougher than the GT. Ive raced agaisnt a few NMT's, it all depends on the driver.

[bubbastump]

well i got my new radio the XS3 by jr
no more glitches i hope
i also picked up a new starter box
tonight i will post pics for some opinions

[Nitrogt10]

I got a stock RC10GT RTR about 1 and a half years ago from tower . But i didnt keep it stock. Here are some hops ups i got

Blue cvec
4 in 1 clucth
RPM receiver box
masher tires
Atomik body
MX-3 fm radio

And i am planing on getting a os 15

Is there any other hop-ups that are worth the money

[1tuffRC10]

Why a 15. Why not a 12 TR or CV-R, they are legal for all racing? They are both very powerful and long lasting engines. There are other brands as well. I like OS if you can't tell.:)

[Nitrogt10]

i would rather have a 15 because it puts out more power (i need it for the big tires) and its only 40 dollars more. Also the local racing track lets you have what ever engine size you want.

[stealthpenguin]

O.S. is not the only option. O.S. doesn't perform as well as other engines (Picco, Novarossi, RB). The one thing that O.S. has going for it is name recognition.

If you really want an engine that rips, get a Picco or something (although you will be spending $150-$190). But, if you wanna stick with a really well-known brand, go with O.S.. Plus, I think you can get a .12 CV-R off of tower for $90.

[RC10's]

A novarassi or RB is more money but they are totally worth it for the shear power they have. If youve ever felt the compression on these engines you know what im talknig about....O.S. is good though.

[bubbastump]

so i fell asleep and didnt post pics
i promice i willl post em soon
other good hopups r
rpm body mounts
rpm heavy duty ball cups
gs racing 1/10 shock rebuild kit
titianium turn buckles
i ran a os .12 cv last year and it did well
im runnin cvr this year motor good gettin a good setup well gettin close
still needs work
motor rips though

[ross]

Originally posted by Nitrogt10
i would rather have a 15 because it puts out more power (i need it for the big tires) and its only 40 dollars more. Also the local racing track lets you have what ever engine size you want.

I take it you looking at the .15CVR?

Go for it, since I got my CVR (.12) i would not buy another other make of engine for my GT apart from OS just because of the quality of them. They are so reliable, so easy to tune and so powerful. Even though people are talking about more powerful Novarossi or RB's they will be more tempremental and not have the torque which you need for those big tyres like a OS .15 will.

bubbastump,

Yeah let us know how everything goes, Im particulary interested in the XS3. Cheers.

[Nitrogt10]

If i do get the O.S. .15 CV-RX (S) w/10ER Rotary Carb will it fit without mods and will i be able to use my flywheel, clucth bell , engine mount, etc. from my AE.15

[tipper]

Originally posted by Nitrogt10
i would rather have a 15 because it puts out more power (i need it for the big tires) and its only 40 dollars more. Also the local racing track lets you have what ever engine size you want.

If I were u I would get a team trinity xp.15 it give more power then the os that is what I have it is awsome. I kicks the **** out of the ae.15

[tipper]

all u need is the adapter to it is a 3 dollar part u need it with the os.15 to so go with the xp.15 it is a moster and u can get it in pull start.

I just got my truck 6 months ago and I have all rpm products, masher 2000 for tires, proline velocitys, all factory team hop ups, all robinson racing hop ups, and progressive suspention shocks with piggyback revserves. With a team trinity picco XP.15 as it power box, and a m8 airtronics controler with digital hitech servos. I also can't foget I have a venom fail safe, temp gauge, I also have a mip 4-1 clutch, aluminum polished cvds from mip and that is it and yest nitrogt all the stuff from the ae.15 engine will fit u just need the adapter. I is in you instruction manual. I also have a proline sierra body it kicks ass.

see ya
gotta race

[ross]

Originally posted by Nitrogt10
If i do get the O.S. .15 CV-RX (S) w/10ER Rotary Carb will it fit without mods and will i be able to use my flywheel, clucth bell , engine mount, etc. from my AE.15


You will just need this: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3371&P=7


The rest of it you will be able to use from your AE .15.

[Nitrogt10]

where do you find the money to buy all that in 6 months

[Nitrogt10]

Click here to see pics of my car

http://www.fototime.com/%7B646FC43D-3EA6-4C83-B1E3-FD9BA9E5CB35%7D/picture.JPG

[Polk]

Here are som pics...not that great! But oh well!

And no, i didnt land that jump!!!

Polk has attached this image:
http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/adrianfu/colpcs2.jpg

[tipper]

Well I don't really find money I sell weed just joking I work alot after school and on weekends. My truck looks very similare to yours I just have a diffrent body on the outside and more stuff. keep working u will get up there we are only kids right. I am 14 how old are u

[bubbastump]

ok tell me how much u would pay and please be serious
i wanna know if i got a good deal
chasis few scratches os cv 15 and cvr 15 head
titianum turnbuckles
rpm body mounts
rpm ballcups
engine has good compression and runs
spare turnbuckles
spare rear a arms
rpm rear bulkhead

[Nitrogt10]

Originally posted by tipper
Well I don't really find money I sell weed just joking I work alot after school and on weekends. My truck looks very similare to yours I just have a diffrent body on the outside and more stuff. keep working u will get up there we are only kids right. I am 14 how old are u

Yeah i am 14 too

[Conman]

Do any of you guys run fail safes? If so which ones. I want to protect my investment.

[Polk]

I used to have a failsafe but it annoyed me to much, it would activate to much for my likeing and didnt really do that much, only protected against interferance, and loss of signal, now you would have to be an idiot not to notice your batterys are running to low, or that your car is 1000miles away from you! I suggest a throttle return spring, much for cheaper and effective.

[Polk]

Heres a few pics of the carnage that happend today!

Broken turnuckle: