Associated RC10GT Forum v6.0

[Polk]

Broken suspension mount:

[Polk]

Hmmm, anyone know if i could glue that, just till i get some new parts in?

Screw it, ill try anyway!

[IFLYBYU]

Hi al,

Can an SG shaft motor be used in a GT, for example the mugen mt12?

Mike

[Conman]

That sucks Polk. What did you do?

[rocknbil]

See Polk, that's why I sent ya some extras. :D

Didn't I send you some rear blocks too? Thought I did!

You can CA glue it and string a zip tue around it to hold it but don't expect it to last that long . . . . will see what I can do.

Originally posted by bubbastump
... tell me how much u would pay and please be serious....

No tires, no electronics? I probably would shoot for $100, and not go over $125, I got two before with full electronics and all + extras for $179 and $225.

[Polk]

I wanted to see how high i could jump, i got to about 6-7 feet then landed in 1 wheel sideways...Bugger!

[bad viking]

Hi.
Im thinking on buying a 4 shoe clutch for my GT.
Will it make a difference on the acceleration?
(accelerate faster or engage smoother)
Also, I have a little problem with understeering.
What shall I do?
incres the angel on the caster/toe in and sutch
Im just gotten into racing u c.

:cool: Bad Viking:cool:

[bad viking]

And I am from Norway, thas why I whrite so many mistakes, :o :o :o :confused: :eek: sutch as tose in the end of my last, ehhh ........thing!! hehe. there u go, i dont know the F--- word
:D :D ;)

:cool: Bad Viking:cool:

[Toyotatogo]

Anybody know where I can purchase the 17mm hex hubs to fit my truck that will allow me to run buggy tires???

[geo8498]

Would I see a noticable difference if I put bushings in the clutch bell instead of bearings? I hate to downgrade like that, but I go through clutch bearings too often.

[trickedoutGT]

Heres some pics of my GT with the custom exhaust. I just wanted to try it out:D .

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid60/p3b430bb15048e100487bddd27e100589/fc50ebd6.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid60/pc9840e2fecbe54f3fc083140aad10a67/fc50ebd0.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid60/p63c5d2848b8883a38a057dba164caea2/fc50ebcd.jpg

:D :D :D

[Polk]

Dude!!

That looks mean!!!

Do you notice any differance in performance?

[trickedoutGT]

Havent tried it out yet. Still waiting for the Tx, Rx, and starter box batteries to charge:D

[bubbastump]

dude let us know
rokinbil i paid 100 bux and just wanted to know if it was worth it thank you

[trickedoutGT]

Ill test it out tomorrow. I only paid 30 bux for mine.

[geo8498]

hot off the assembly line...

[dog8spam]

I hate to tell you but that is not going to work well. It looks sweet though I'll have to admit. Read this, its a good article on how pipes work.

http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/tuned.asp

polk
You could probably cut a piece out (old licens plates are good) to run from the end of one hinge pin to the other one, it would make it alot stronger. I break all kinds of stuff on jumps too.

[trickedoutGT]

Yah I know its not gonna work good. I just want to try it out once, tell all of you how its like, then sell it either here or Ebay.

[Conman]

I'm with "Toyatatogo", I've wanted to try that for a while. Where can we fine 17mm hex hubs that will fit the GT?

[trickedoutGT]

Toyotatogo and Conman: Here you go:

http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=5

If link does not work, go to New Era Models (http://www.neweramodels.com) Then Associated Trucks and Cars then "Associated Ultra RC10GT RTR & Factory TEAM"

[TQboy1]

I'm going to get a rc10gt soon, and :confused: for break-in should i get "special" break-in fuel, or the fuel I'll be running regularly.

[Polk]

I wouldnt bother with special break in fuel. Its just a gimmic. Use the fuel you intend to use all the time, it will save money and time on any potential problems with switching fuels later on! Just follow the break in procedures by the book and your engine will last many a day...

[Saboteur]

Like I said on the other thread I posted, I've got a fresh qt of megatech 25% fuel and thats a little less than 3/4ths full. Its not worth wasting all that fuel and just buy another. Just use what you have and should you change brands, just idle on a tank or two and then see if you need to make adjustments to the LSN or HSN. Not much of a big deal if you ask me :)

[stealthpenguin]

I just got a MIP lightweight flywheel, and a MIP 4-n-1 clutch.

I can't believe how much higher my CV-R revs now!

I am shooting for very fast off-the-line acceleration, how should I weight/orientate my MIP clutch?

Right now I have it in the #2 position (weighted / standard shoe posistion), and I feel that it has too much slip off-the-line.

[1tuffRC10]

penguin, you can try the no. 3 setting but keep in mind that the engine needs to rev a little before the clutch engages or you will get tons of wheel spin. Try the no.2 setting for a few tanks, the clutch will start to engage quicker as it breaks in. You may want to sand the shoes and bell to remove the "glaze". This will help the clutch to engage as well.

[bubbastump]

i use #3 but remember it takes a few tanks 4 -5 for clutch to break in

[ZootMan]

I know the custom exhaust wont work well, but if you find a better looking pipe for when the body is on, please tell me.
An exhaust system that my friend made is actually two stinger exhausts put together to make dual rear exhaust. He "says" that it works good but i would need to see it for myself.

Anyways...His engine always has soo good of compression (enough to lift it off the ground if it was able to go that way) and that is because he puts a little Restore in his fuel. Just in case you dont know what that is, it is used in real cars for renewing cylinder compression. He puts in very little per gallon bacause even in a full size car, not all of it is required. You can find it at about any auto section of walmart.

[dog8spam]

An exhaust system that my friend made is actually two stinger exhausts put together to make dual rear exhaust. He "says" that it works good but i would need to see it for myself.

I thought about, only make the other side a dummy pipe so performance isn't hurt.

[TommyT]

Hey Guys,

I would like to turn my fuel tank around so that the fill hole and fuel pick up is at the front instead of back. The top of the tank would then come down at an angle toward the carb and allow better access to the low speed needle adjustment screw.

Has anyone done this?
The fuel tube would need to be a couple inches longer. Would this hurt performance?

Also, Is there a better alternative for the stock fuel tank?

TommyT

[dog8spam]

Get a reversed tank from Associated.

[stealthpenguin]

It was hard putting the spring around the clutch without the outer lip getting pushed down in some areas. Will this hurt reliability/performance?

[Saboteur]

Has anyone thought or made of for their GT? I thought it would be cool. Going to use some wire hanger, cut it and bend it into a nice shape and try to mount of it on the GT. When I get it that is. :)

[Polk]

www.neweramodels.com makes a roll bar for the GT but as far as i know it can nly be used on the New era chassis!

Im with ya TommyT accessing the LSN is a hell of a job, expecially with the body on and your scrambling to get it so then engine doesnt stall!!!!!

Oh well im going on holiday for a week so ill see you all later!

[1tuffRC10]

Don't turn that tank around. The pick up is in the rear and you won't get any run time before the fuel doesn't reach it on acceleration and leans your engine.

[TommyT]

I just looked on the web and it seems that the Associated Reverse Fuel Tank No.7721 has been discontinued. I couldn't find a source that still has a couple.

TommyT

[1tuffRC10]

Tommy, it's listed for a NTC3.

[dog8spam]

The reversed has the fuel thing on the opposite side of the lid, so it will be fine.

There is a small obscure company I saw somewhere on the web a couple of years ago that makes a rollbar thing that also stiffened the chassis, they made it because old blacktubs had alot of problems with flex, but it would still fit a newer GT.

[1tuffRC10]

7719 GT/NTC3 Fuel Tank. 75cc, with insert. (Pressure tube connects to lid) 1 $14.00

Straight from AE Hope this helps :D

[bubbastump]

anyone ever heard of the center clutch bearing ?
ae#6901 for the center one.

[1tuffRC10]

bubbastump, yes I've heard of it but I don't use it. If you run it you have to use all AE bearings or there is not room, so I've heard.

[TommyT]

Okay Guys,

Thanks for the info on the tank. After further inspection of the picture of the 7719 tank I see that the fuel filter and pick up is on the opposite side of the fill cap. Initially it looked like the stock tank that comes with the truck and then when Tower listed the reverse tank as discontinued I assumed it was the stock tank.

Thanks,
TommyT

[TommyT]

Let's Talk Engines for a minute.

It seems that most folks on this forum recommend the OS .15 CVR-S w/10E rotary carb.

What else do I need to put this engine in my RTR 10GT?

Also, which flywheel works best with this engine? I want a reliable slow idle but I'm not sure yet if I want a 3 or 4 shoe clutch yet.

I am assuming (here we go again) that all the AE Clutch Nut will fit on this engine and that AE and MIP 3 and 4 shoe clutches will fit on the clutch nut.

Thanks,
TommyT

[1tuffRC10]

Tommy, I like the OS TR but anyhow, the MIP clutch is different from the stock clutch. You will need to grind the pins on your flywheel. If you want a smooth idle, use the MIP. I never liked the AE set up without springs. To make any engine idle better, use a heavier flywheel. It will also help to control the power of the higher HP engines.

[1tuffRC10]

AE has two or three different clutch nuts but they aren't much different anymore. I believe the OS nut has a extra thread or two inside.

[tipper]

Originally posted by bubbastump
ok tell me how much u would pay and please be serious
i wanna know if i got a good deal
chasis few scratches os cv 15 and cvr 15 head
titianum turnbuckles
rpm body mounts
rpm ballcups
engine has good compression and runs
spare turnbuckles
spare rear a arms
rpm rear bulkhead

well to be honest I would pay about 150-175 dollars for that. I am being honest. that is all I would pay

[tipper]

Originally posted by bad viking
Hi.
Im thinking on buying a 4 shoe clutch for my GT.
Will it make a difference on the acceleration?
(accelerate faster or engage smoother)
Also, I have a little problem with understeering.
What shall I do?
incres the angel on the caster/toe in and sutch
Im just gotten into racing u c.

:cool: Bad Viking:cool:

get a mip clutch they are so much better and they dive u less troubles and u get 4 diffrent clutch patterns

[tipper]

Originally posted by trickedoutGT
Havent tried it out yet. Still waiting for the Tx, Rx, and starter box batteries to charge:D

what type of shock oil and shocks are u using I am using 50 weight shock and number 3 pistons

[tipper]

Originally posted by TQboy1
I'm going to get a rc10gt soon, and :confused: for break-in should i get "special" break-in fuel, or the fuel I'll be running regularly.

use fuel u are going to be running I brok my engine in with 30% and it works great and I only use 20% some times. u don't need fany fuel like team trinity break in either waste of money I use byrons fuel that is the best. they are all pure to don't listen to the labels u have to read what is in them. I live i canada and for a gallon of byron 20% is 30.00 and for team trinity monster it is 42.00 see the diffrence.

[tipper]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
I just got a MIP lightweight flywheel, and a MIP 4-n-1 clutch.

I can't believe how much higher my CV-R revs now!

I am shooting for very fast off-the-line acceleration, how should I weight/orientate my MIP clutch?

Right now I have it in the #2 position (weighted / standard shoe posistion), and I feel that it has too much slip off-the-line.

I have the same clutch and flywheel my posistion is number to it works the best of road and makes it handle very well u got to easy into it and it give it more break to it al depends on your settings and track condition to sometines I have it set on 4, 3, 0r 2 nver one it has to much slip. sell home this is help full

[TommyT]

Let me see if I got this right?

Mip Heavy Flywheel
MIP 4-n-1 Clutch
Robinson Racing 15T steel clutch bell
AE Clutch Nut

Don't I also need a different engine mount for the OS .15 CVR? Remember, I have the RTR Trucks.

TommyT

[tipper]

Originally posted by TommyT
Let me see if I got this right?

Mip Heavy Flywheel
MIP 4-n-1 Clutch
Robinson Racing 15T steel clutch bell
AE Clutch Nut

Don't I also need a different engine mount for the OS .15 CVR? Remember, I have the RTR Trucks.

TommyT


ya u need the clutch bell adapter it is like 3 dollars i wouldn't go with th os though it is to hard I have that motor and I hated it. it had very little torque and rpm. I have the picco xp.15 it was 10 dollars more and it is so much better has good instrucitions. fits rtr trucks very nicly all u need it the adapter. I have it with a mip light flywheel, mip 4-1 clutch on setting no.2, and a robinson racing harden steel 16tooth clutchbell with an clutch adapter that is all I have on my engine. your ae air filter fits nice and tight on the carb to. heavy flywheel will not make it go faster it will make it go slower but idle nice that is all lighter flywheels give u more torque, speed and rpm.


hope this helps the xp.15 is like a power box to it gose at least 10 more mph then ae.15

[tipper]

Originally posted by TommyT
Let me see if I got this right?

Mip Heavy Flywheel
MIP 4-n-1 Clutch
Robinson Racing 15T steel clutch bell
AE Clutch Nut

Don't I also need a different engine mount for the OS .15 CVR? Remember, I have the RTR Trucks.

TommyT

ya I remember u have a rtr I do to so I bought the o.s.15 cvr to it sucks. it had no torque it was the same as the ae.15. so I went out and I bought the team trinity xp.15. I love that engine I have has it for 3 days now and I csn notice the diffrence in torque, speed and rpm climb. It is the perfect engine for the weekend warrior for on and off road. now on that engine I have
Mip 4-1 clutch on settinf no.2
mip light weight flywheel
robinson racing clutchbell.
now for the clutchbell take some 400 grit sand pater and clean the inside so it is shinny metal and I ruffed up my clutch for a little fater engadgement. now did u buy that heavy flywheel or are u because I wounld not get it because it is only good for nice idleing get one that is lighter for faster acceleration better torque and faster rpm climb. or stick with a stock associated pull start on no pull start flywheel they are pretty good. You do need the clutch bell adapter. it is like 3 dollars what u do is put a plastic bag over your motor and put the shaft there the bag and cut off part of the shaft so the adapter can fit on just get the shop to do it less chance of screwing up. hope it helps
good luck

[tipper]

Originally posted by trickedoutGT
Heres some pics of my GT with the custom exhaust. I just wanted to try it out:D .

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid60/p3b430bb15048e100487bddd27e100589/fc50ebd6.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid60/pc9840e2fecbe54f3fc083140aad10a67/fc50ebd0.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid60/p63c5d2848b8883a38a057dba164caea2/fc50ebcd.jpg

:D :D :D

how did u make that exhaust

[ZootMan]

It appears that he used some kind of pvc pipe and some cut metal pipe. Never the less, it looks just plain cool.

[TommyT]

You are using the pull start version of the Pico .15?

XP .15 = pull start.

Let's assume I go with the Pico P15 non pull start with Pico exhaust won't I need a different header?

I don't think the Pico comes without pull start and standard header.

TommyT

[TommyT]

Looks like 1/2" or 5/8" brass to me.

[Conman]

It's probably 1/2 inch copper water plumbing pipe.

[tipper]

Originally posted by TommyT
You are using the pull start version of the Pico .15?

XP .15 = pull start.

Let's assume I go with the Pico P15 non pull start with Pico exhaust won't I need a different header?

I don't think the Pico comes without pull start and standard header.

TommyT

picco dose come without a pull start u can use the standard head and it fits picco exhaust. I just bought the engine and put every thing else from my old engine on the new one all ae stuff fits on picco.xp and u can get a pull start and just get a cover. trust me I have my dad is a distributor for team trinity.

[tipper]

Originally posted by TommyT
Looks like 1/2" or 5/8" brass to me.


It is 1/2 inch os brass pipe I know how to make it work better to my uncle is with me riche now helping me make one out of one continous piece of pipe. he has to many courners and joints. so if you use 1 piece just till the pipe seperates u will get more power it is the same as a tuned pipe it has no corners it just bends. I will let u know how it worked out and I will give u a pic to of it.

[Saboteur]

Are you talking about the picco XP .15RE or the picco rc speed .15. I've heard of the Picco re.15 but the only RE XP engines I know is the .12. These have WAY more power than the other picco .12s and even the rc speed. To bad they wont fit because they only come with an SG crank.

[Conman]

Aw, CRAP! I just got my GT running, and the paint on the body is drying. So I sit and wait for the paint to dry before running it right? No, I run it without the body because it was my first time driving a nitro anything. And on the Second tank what do I do, I launch it of one of those beveled curbs. It flips over in the air and lands upside down, BOUNCES up of the grass and lands right side up. It won't move. I run. When I get there I see the RX pack on the grass.(where the h*ll did the zip-ties go) I broke the rear bulkhead! Crap. So, should I buy the RPM Bulkhead?

[TommyT]

yea conman, that's what I meant copper. :o What was I thinking :rolleyes:

[tipper]

did u break your engine in it take 6 tanks 4 of idling and 2 of driving it around on 1/4 throttle and giving ti big burst of throttle once in a while

[TommyT]

In my limited experience with these trucks, I have learned one thing. I have yet to break an RPM part. Get RPM!!!

[tipper]

tommy got to rccar actions chat and lets talk k

[tipper]

conman why don't u just buy a roll cadge they are only like 30 dollars or put tie rapts on the top of your engine to pertect it.

[TommyT]

Tipper,

This is what I got when I attempted to register: ACCOUNT STATUS: Sorry, but the server is not accepting new user accounts!

Email me with instructions or idea on how to register in future. Got to go soon anyway.

[Conman]

I bought the engine used, so it was already broken in.
There is a lesson here: Run you truck with the body F-ing ON!

[tipper]

I never run the truck with the body on. I was smart and bought a roll cadge for 30.00 and all rpm parts so nothing would break

[tipper]

go to rc car action and got chat in radio controled zone click here http://chat.rccaraction.com/

[Conman]

Now I need money.

[tipper]

Originally posted by Conman
Now I need money.

come and chat with me I am already on there chat at http://chat.rccaraction.com/

if u have any questions just ask

[Conman]

It won't accept any new accounts!

[tipper]

Originally posted by Conman
It won't accept any new accounts!

it should because I just joined today keep trying it will not let u if someone has that name try COOLGT_55

[ZootMan]

Just curious-

What content nitro fuel are you guys using? What brand?
Do you guys have any idea on what your top speeds may be?

[ZootMan]

I tried to get on the chat but it said that it is not accepting new accounts. Do i have to wait until there is a scheduled event?

[tipper]

Originally posted by ZootMan
Just curious-

What content nitro fuel are you guys using? What brand?
Do you guys have any idea on what your top speeds may be?

I am using byrons 20% fuel because it is a good price and it gives your truck a little kick to it. I like it better then blue thunder, trinity, orion and traxxas, and o'donnal. my truck hits around60mph on road

[stealthpenguin]

Tipper, what do you have in your car?

I have been having big problems with air bubbles in my fuel line. When my car hits one that is too big, it will cut out. How can I reduce air bubbles?

[tipper]

u have a air leak i there some where cheack all the fuel lines the gas tank and put gasket sealent around the carb where it goes into the engine. pretty much put gasket sealent around and on every o-ring and original gasket that is what I did had the same problem. don't gorget to check the tank to see if there in any holes in there to and the fuel lines. if that dosn't work tell me use a gasket sealent that is hight temp. it dosn't have to be gas proof mine isn't just got to put new stuff on every month.

I use Master grey plus RTV silicone Sensor Safe Gasket maker. that is the best stuff to get

hope this helps

[geo8498]

now I don't want to drive it

[stealthpenguin]

My friend says it may be a sign that my piston/sleeve are going dead.

[geo8498]

with a couple decals

[atm92484_3]

Nice body Geo.

[Saboteur]

Good work. BTW what engine and gearing do you have on your gt that makes it go 60mph tipper? Just curious.

[Henry G]

hey guys, it's me again
Today I took out my gt +. I'm on my second tank of gas on break-in. So, I fired it up, drove it in a few circles, and it died. It did this a few more times. on about the fifth, or sixth time after tuning the engine, I put in the glow starter, fired it up, took it out and it stopped! My engine won't run without my igniter in. Why is it doing this???????:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

[Conman]

I need one of these;

[Saboteur]

You may have the needle settings too rich. Try leaning it just an 8th of a turn or so.

[tipper]

Originally posted by Henry G
hey guys, it's me again
Today I took out my gt +. I'm on my second tank of gas on break-in. So, I fired it up, drove it in a few circles, and it died. It did this a few more times. on about the fifth, or sixth time after tuning the engine, I put in the glow starter, fired it up, took it out and it stopped! My engine won't run without my igniter in. Why is it doing this???????:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

it is doing this because your bottom end is to rich. to much fuel is getting to it. I also think u were breaking it in wrong at our shop we did 2 test with the same car and same engines xp.15 what I have. we found that when u break them in the manual way it has more wear on the engine. I found letting it idel in 1 spot for 4 tanks and driving it around at 1/4 throttle and giving it big burst once in a while for 3 tanks really works. there is not as much wear. get it it still might not be to laite.
:D

[tipper]

Originally posted by Saboteur
Good work. BTW what engine and gearing do you have on your gt that makes it go 60mph tipper? Just curious.


I have about 10 diffrent clutch bells but the main setting for 60mph is a 20tooth clutch bell and a 55tooth spur :D and a team trinity picco xp.15 engine

[tipper]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
My friend says it may be a sign that my piston/sleeve are going dead.

I dought that it has all the things air leak would have just try it first because after time part wiggle loose and stuff breaks so try the silicone :D :D :D

[bubbastump]

well day 1 of project i want a winner

[bubbastump]

dissasembeled all 2 1/2 gts
and took best parts and puttin it on 1 for racer

[bubbastump]

i now have rpm bulkheads and body mounts
mip 4 n 1 clutch
mip light weight flywheel
os .12 cvr
mip shinny cvd
ft kit new front tires and bearings all the way around
some special diff lube (dont ask i cant tell)(i was sworn to it)
titianium diff ball or hardened steel???
15 tooth cb
67 tooth spur
amb personnel transponder
and a verry verry sore back

[stealthpenguin]

Although I really love my .12 CV-R, I really want more power/speed.

What is the best non-pullstart .12 engine for $160?

[stealthpenguin]

I was thinking about:

Team Orion Wasp Off-road (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCJZ7&P=7)
RB X12 (http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=108_146_147_149&products_id=2825&osCsid=ddeafc4d568de7c1519b1d8373e684b9)
Fantom FR12 (rear exhaust) (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=FAN01010)

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by bubbastump
dissasembeled all 2 1/2 gts..... BUBBA!! Is that your bed??? :D Good score on the GT, $100 is equitable.

Originally posted by geo8498
.....Would I see a noticable difference if I put bushings in the clutch bell instead of bearings? I hate to downgrade like that.....
Technically . . yes, but not much. I would be more concerned about the added heat it's generating.

If you're burning clutch bearings I would try replacing the clutch shaft, that seems to be the most frequent culprit, it wears a little and allows the inner race of the bearings to slip and wobble.

[tipper]

Originally posted by bubbastump
i now have rpm bulkheads and body mounts
mip 4 n 1 clutch
mip light weight flywheel
os .12 cvr
mip shinny cvd
ft kit new front tires and bearings all the way around
some special diff lube (dont ask i cant tell)(i was sworn to it)
titianium diff ball or hardened steel???
15 tooth cb
67 tooth spur
amb personnel transponder
and a verry verry sore back

maybe u should think about getting some better stuff for the rc10gt still like allrpm parts some lunsford titanium turnbuckes and hingpins front and rear graphite shocktower stuff like that makes it lighter and stronger go onto the net and look up rc index and there will be a sight that is donated to rc10gt and it has everything on there. also get the progressive suspention with resivores.

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
I was thinking about:

Team Orion Wasp Off-road (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCJZ7&P=7)
RB X12 (http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=108_146_147_149&products_id=2825&osCsid=ddeafc4d568de7c1519b1d8373e684b9)
Fantom FR12 (rear exhaust) (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=FAN01010)

I'd get the Wasp. The X12s are insane, but I've heard they are too much for a stadium truck.

[stealthpenguin]

If I got an X12, should I get a metal spur to go with it then?

I want 'wheelie-power'. :D

[1tuffRC10]

penguin, check the fitting on the rear of your tank where the line goes to the carb. If that little elbow moves, get a new tank. Silicone may work for a little while but you don't know when it quits working and your engine goes lean.

I know no one seems to like the TR but it is 119.95 on Tower!

You can try the light flywheel on dirt but with one hp or more it just doesn't work. Too much wheel spin. Not sure why no one seems to like OS but 2 gallons of fuel through a TR with a CV-R piston and it still runs great. OS doesn't use those crappy looking, air sucking plastic carbs either. :)

[tipper]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
If I got an X12, should I get a metal spur to go with it then?

I want 'wheelie-power'. :D

the picco xp.12 put out the same amount of power as a x12 but the xp is a hole lot cheaper and if u get the xp.15 is give even more power that makes awsome wheelies

[Saboteur]

RE or SE? If you got to most sites they show you the picco .12 or .15 rc speed, but on www.teampicco.com they call the SE versions the XP. The rc speed versions with rotary carbs are no match for most rear exhaust engines out there. Only the picco XP .12RE which claims to pump out 1.4hp@37krpm (<--Manufacturer stats).

[1tuffRC10]

Ha Ha. The turbo pico claims to put out 1.5 hp @ 40,000. Do you believe it? What would you do with that much power? If you can keep it running LOL

[stealthpenguin]

Well, yes, my tank elbow does move. a lot.

So, I guess the new tank is in order.

Also, I think I'm gonna wait on the engine. My engine runs great, just not 'wheelie-power'.

It's the driver that makes it fast, not the engine. :D

[stealthpenguin]

Tipper, .15's are not legal in ST's, and I rather get the .12 just to be safe. What .12 out there can make my GT do wheelies?

[dog8spam]

we found that when u break them in the manual way it has more wear on the engine

When I broke in my friends GT Plus I had to richen it 1 1/2 turns to get it to break in properly. It wasn't freezing outside ethier.

I would try a Novvi Rosi or Picco, if you have the money. I wouldn't get a metal spur gear ethier, if it doesn't go something else will. A .15 shouldn't strip it just from pulling the throttle, most of the time I dont strip gears accelerating.

[dog8spam]

Heres a pic of my car, the bumper is missing though and I ran out of material to make another.

[dog8spam]

Also ignore the wires and missing carriers. Has anyone had problems with 1/4x1/2 bearing blowing or should I spend the extra buck and get 3/16x1/2?

[geo8498]

I have 1/4x 3/8 bearings in my gt since I got MIP CVDs which had 1/4" axles. I was a little concerned that I'd blow through those bearings, but I've been tooling around pretty hard for about a month with them. RPM has a a larger hub carrier kit with 1/4"x1/2" bearings, available for $26 at Tower. I think I'll be getting that soon anyway.

[RC10's]

RB engines are insane and will probably pull wheelies in a GT. If you still have any doubt you could get a novarossi:) If that doesnt pull a wheelie nothing will. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDUH3&P=7 I would reccomend against metal spurs also because something has to give like a top shaft or idler gear or diff or....... just stick with plastic for 4.00 bucks

[stealthpenguin]

Heh, I don't think I'm ready to spend $320 on a .12 engine. lol.

[tipper]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
Heh, I don't think I'm ready to spend $320 on a .12 engine. lol.

hey buddy what do u ezactly want to spend on a motor because the x.12 isn't that far behind the novarossi. for the xp.15 or the p.15 and u can even get a point 12 if u want from team trinity, it is 160.00 it is awsome price, u are only really paying for the name to cheack up on them u are also really paying for .1 maybe .2 of a hp and 4,000 more rpm is it worth 160.00 really. think about it.

[dog8spam]

I have 1/4x 3/8 bearings in my gt since I got MIP CVDs which had 1/4" axles. I was a little concerned that I'd blow through those bearings, but I've been tooling around pretty hard for about a month with them. RPM has a a larger hub carrier kit with 1/4"x1/2" bearings, available for $26 at Tower. I think I'll be getting that soon anyway.

I'd watch those. On one side the bearing blew and somehow pulled the cover inside the carrier which was mostly demolished except for a little piece that cut up the axle so bad nothing will slide over it. It looks like ~~~ through the middle.
Now I need new bearings and axles.

[1tuffRC10]

There's only two things that keep a GT with any .75 hp engine or more, from pulling wheelies. If you have everything set right, something in the gearing, slipper, or diff, WILL slip. If it doesn't you will tear out a gear running off road. The second thing is traction. With any decent engine, a good set of steps, and everything tight, you should be able to pull a wheelie in grass. But with the truck set that way it will be junk on dirt, unless you can get tons of traction in the dirt. JMHO

penguin, that fitting will draw air and you know the rest. Good time to get the new tank with the pressure line in the cap. Works great!

dog8spam, I ran some of those RPM carriers with the 1/4 axels for over a year, at least 12 gallons of fuel, and didn't wear them out. BTW The kit is not much more than just the bearings.

[1tuffRC10]

geo, I never had any luck with those bearings either. I used 3/16 on my new truck. The wheels will fit but you need to drill them out a little. BTW I didn't drill all the way through mine.

[bubbastump]

i do have titanium turnbuckles

[geo8498]

Yeah, I was thinking of returning the CVD's for 3/16" axle set, but decided I'd keep them . I'm still going to get the RPM hub carrier just to upsize to the larger bearings. I am able to fit normal Proline wheels on the 1/4', as the actual axle part that is threaded and going through the wheel is still 3/16". The only thing is, the part with the pin is 1/4" The plastic on the Prolines is flexible enough to spread over it and gives a nice snug fit. Just have to pay attention when mounting them to make sure the pin aligns with the wheel properly when tightening.

[Conman]

Yes! I got my GT fixed. Is there anything that CA and some scrap lexan can do? I'm still going to buy the RPM bulkhead because it'll probalbly break again.

[stealthpenguin]

Um, the X12 is only 169. Not that much more than the Picco, but a LOT less than the novarossi.

[chachi]

I know this has come up before, and searching back through the GT thread I found a few reference to the use of an SG crank engine. I would like to put an MT-12 SG in my GT.

Has anybody figured out an easy way to install an SG crank in a GT?

Wallis Racing: is sounds like you were going to try it out....how did it work out?

[bad viking]

I have a small problem with understeering.
How should I change my setup to get more traction.

Keep up the good work.

Bad Viking

[ross]

Originally posted by chachi
I know this has come up before, and searching back through the GT thread I found a few reference to the use of an SG crank engine. I would like to put an MT-12 SG in my GT.

Has anybody figured out an easy way to install an SG crank in a GT?

Wallis Racing: is sounds like you were going to try it out....how did it work out?


Delelted.

[tipper]

well guys my jag radio is on the sh*ts again, it is beeping and will not stop I took it apart and I looked inside and there is a red wire for the steering sesitivity that is broken off. the internet said there is something wrong with the trottle I have no clue I cheacked the throttle what should I do. please help me

[CoryL]

Does anyone have copy of RC10GT manual? I bought a used truck
yesterday, but I'm relatively new to Gas. I think i got a good deal:
Newer style Gt w/ .15, starter box w/ power pannel, a gallon of fuel, and a quick fill bottle for $250. what do you think?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by bad viking
I have a small problem with understeering.
.....

1. Strong servo, metal gears, 80 oz/in + will allow you to lock down your servo saver a little tighter without "giving" on high-G force turns.

2. Good grippage - I like the Pro-Line Edge tires up front.

3. Make sure you have at least two 1/8" holes drilled on the inside of your rims to allow the air to expel.

4. - Drag brake - given to me by (was it Railman?) drag brake is adjusting your brakes at idle so there is a very slight brake applied. Not much, just enough to apply a smooth resistance. This way, when you approach a turn and let off the gas, the smooth slight brake shifts the weight forward as you approach the turn affording more front traction.

5. (and you have to expirament with this) For traction coming out of a turn (when you're getting back on the gas) adjust your squat. As you probably know, when you apply throttle, the torque of the wheels against the ground causes the rear end to drop, this is called squat. When the ass squats, the nose lifts, reducing front traction.

The anti-squat is controlled primarily by the angle at which the rear A-Arms are oriented to the chassis and there are different rear A-arm mounting blocks you can buy to fiddle with this, but you can also adjust the rear suspension -primarily the oil - to reduce the amount of squat you get. I start with the oil on this one because oil is not to assist in suspension of the chassis as many people believe, that's what springs are for. Oil is to control the speed at which the suspension reacts. If you use a heavier weight oil in the rear, it will slow down the squat action when you throttle, and gain a tad more traction up front, which in combination with 1-4 above should do the trick. You just have to find the spot where the heavier oil doesn't produce other problems, like straightline traction.


Originally posted by CoryL
Does anyone have copy of RC10GT manual?

Cory it looks like Mr. Shusting is finally revising the AE site, it';s a mess over there, but I did find these:

Drawing
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/catalogs/drawing_gt.pdf

Or you can order one direct
http://www.teamassociated.com/feedbackresult/forms/oldmanuals.htm

[tipper]

can't anybody help me please I am stuck

[stealthpenguin]

I'm not very familiar w/ electronics, but I would say that you should definitely reconnect that wire (although I don't know how it would come loose).

BTW: I have an electronics question myself. I have a M8, and the cover for the battery pack is very flimsy, and it can easily come off, disconnecting the battery pack in side. Any suggestions?

[geo8498]

tipper

Did you try a fresh pack of batteries?


If you can tell where that red wire goes, can you solder it back on?

On my Jag, if you turn on the TX while holding the trigger down, it will beep like that. Make sure the trigger isn't stuck. Or maybe the red wire goes to the potentiometer for the trigger. If the red wire isn't the problem, maybe the potentiometer itself is crudded up. You can try spraying electronic circuit cleaner into it to see if that fixes it. Servos glitch from dirty poentiometers as well. You can get the spray from the hobby store or at Radio Shack. Duratraxx makes the brand called Power Shot. It's used for cleaning electric motors.

Before you do anything though. . . You should consider if digging around inside your radio will void any warranty. I generally know enough about electronics to not be worried about warranty work, but not everyone does.

[tipper]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
I'm not very familiar w/ electronics, but I would say that you should definitely reconnect that wire (although I don't know how it would come loose).

BTW: I have an electronics question myself. I have a M8, and the cover for the battery pack is very flimsy, and it can easily come off, disconnecting the battery pack in side. Any suggestions?

well the only thing I could think of is tape it on or glue it only thing I can think off.

[tipper]

Originally posted by geo8498
tipper

Did you try a fresh pack of batteries?


If you can tell where that red wire goes, can you solder it back on?

On my Jag, if you turn on the TX while holding the trigger down, it will beep like that. Make sure the trigger isn't stuck. Or maybe the red wire goes to the potentiometer for the trigger. If the red wire isn't the problem, maybe the potentiometer itself is crudded up. You can try spraying electronic circuit cleaner into it to see if that fixes it. Servos glitch from dirty poentiometers as well. You can get the spray from the hobby store or at Radio Shack. Duratraxx makes the brand called Power Shot. It's used for cleaning electric motors.

Before you do anything though. . . You should consider if digging around inside your radio will void any warranty. I generally know enough about electronics to not be worried about warranty work, but not everyone does.



my warranty has expired and the red wire is for the steering sesitivity and my trigger is messed up I don't know the proper settings for the trigger placement? do u know and there are brand new batteries in there and the trigger isn't stuck because there is no trigger on there

[RC10's]

I have seen and delt with so many problems with those stupid jaguar radios that I wouldnt even bother to fix it, spend 50 bucks and get something new that isnt complete garbage, I dont know why AE plagues the RTR with such a junky radio, it bothers me as an AE fan. Novarossis are expensive but they are the absolute best engine you can buy period. But thats just my opinion.

[slaf]

Hi all !

Does someone have try to install a NTC3 (part number 2258) receiver box on a 10GT ???

[Conman]

Novarossi's are the best. No question. An SG crankshaft can fit in a GT. My HPI by Novarossi engine has an SG crank.

[ross]

Originally posted by Conman
Novarossi's are the best. No question. An SG crankshaft can fit in a GT. My HPI by Novarossi engine has an SG crank.

As far has I know HPI have never made a small block engine with an SG crank.

[Conman]

Well it says HPI on the crankcase.

[stealthpenguin]

I don't think the SG crank will fit a GT.

[Conman]

Then I don't know how I have one, but I do.:confused:

[stealthpenguin]

Um, SG cranks are proportioned and are threaded differently than regular 'threaded' shaft.

I don't understand how it would work.

[tagtracer79]

i recently bought a rc10gt as my first nitro it has an upgraded motor,exhaust,shocks,and some other misc parts it came with a starter box the jr xr3 radio a bashed body and a few spare parts fo $70 in all hope i got a good deal.....my problem is that the wire between the batt pack and the on/off switch broke car went full throttle into a wall then messing alot of it up i fixed all that i could now (need more money to repair the rest) my big thing is should i spend the money to fix this one back up or just buy a new car i'm looking at a t-maxx just not sure which is batter any suggestions???:confused:

[tipper]

Originally posted by tagtracer79
i recently bought a rc10gt as my first nitro it has an upgraded motor,exhaust,shocks,and some other misc parts it came with a starter box the jr xr3 radio a bashed body and a few spare parts fo $70 in all hope i got a good deal.....my problem is that the wire between the batt pack and the on/off switch broke car went full throttle into a wall then messing alot of it up i fixed all that i could now (need more money to repair the rest) my big thing is should i spend the money to fix this one back up or just buy a new car i'm looking at a t-maxx just not sure which is batter any suggestions???:confused:

1 - learn how to spell.
2 - fow much money is the truck going to cost to fix and what parts are damaged.
3 - u probally don't have the money for a t-maxx.
4 - always cheack the wiring on the car before u drive it. it was probally cut to start out with and then it just snaped off.
5 - what happened to your throttle return spring and if you don't have one get one or a venom fail safe.
6 - if you have any more questions just ask.

[rocknbil]

1 - learn how to spell.
????????????

fow
u
probally
cheack
u
it (sentences begin with a capital)
probally
snaped


"Tend thine own spellchecker."

[geo8498]

Originally posted by tagtracer79
my big thing is should i spend the money to fix this one back up or just buy a new car i'm looking at a t-maxx just not sure which is batter any suggestions???:confused:

Assuming your engine is in good shape...

My thought is this...Worst case scenario; if you spend as much as $200 on new parts for your GT (it probably won't require that much), you have a total investment of $270. You'll be able to customize with your choice of parts. A new RC10GT Plus runs around $300.

If you invest more money into your RC10, you may have a supply of spare parts already. If you invest your money into a new Team or Factory team RC10GT, you will have a radio and engine, not to mention, wheels, tire and other pieces as spares.

Switching to a TMaxx is a totally different arena of RC. Also, they cost $400.

Going into the TMAxx will require a new investment of wheels, tires, bearings, and so on. Then you may soon want to start adding hop-ups as well.

The choice can be approached by what you want to drive and what you can afford. If you want a TMaxx, and can afford it, you may decide to do it now and your only out $70. You still end up with a radio and probably the engine from original investment.

[Conman]

Has anyone tried putting 1/8 buggy tires on your GT? I know that New Era Modles makes some adapters for 17MM and 19MM hex rims.

[Ford850]

Has anyone try to fit a Traxxas 2.5 motor on their RC10GT? What do you have to do to get one to fit?

Thanks

[tipper]

Originally posted by Conman
Has anyone tried putting 1/8 buggy tires on your GT? I know that New Era Modles makes some adapters for 17MM and 19MM hex rims.

I have maxx mashers on my truck I have aluminum adapters for mine custom made and ready to ship

[tipper]

Originally posted by geo8498
Assuming your engine is in good shape...

My thought is this...Worst case scenario; if you spend as much as $200 on new parts for your GT (it probably won't require that much), you have a total investment of $270. You'll be able to customize with your choice of parts. A new RC10GT Plus runs around $300.

If you invest more money into your RC10, you may have a supply of spare parts already. If you invest your money into a new Team or Factory team RC10GT, you will have a radio and engine, not to mention, wheels, tire and other pieces as spares.

Switching to a TMaxx is a totally different arena of RC. Also, they cost $400.

Going into the TMAxx will require a new investment of wheels, tires, bearings, and so on. Then you may soon want to start adding hop-ups as well.

The choice can be approached by what you want to drive and what you can afford. If you want a TMaxx, and can afford it, you may decide to do it now and your only out $70. You still end up with a radio and probably the engine from original investment.

ya man stay with the rc10gt just buy all nem none stock [arts that is what I did and there is nothing ca glue, tie raps and a hammer can not fix trust me. I bent my chassis and I mean hent and I just hit it with a hammer till it was flat and used ca glue to fix the cracks still holds

[Conman]

Ordiginally posted by; tipper
I have maxx mashers on my truck I have aluminum adapters for mine custom made and ready to ship
Interesting.
How does she handle with such big tires?

[tipper]

she handles so well not to mention great traxtion. I can hit wheelies with her. just got to gear it high enough. turns nicely and everything. u have to cut the sides out of the body a little bit bigger but oh well right looks like a monster truck to or when it is low enough it looks like a offroad pimp mobile.

lol:D

[Polk]

Got any pics of it?

[RC10's]

I too would stick with the GT over a T-maxx, T-maxxs are a money pit and like to break, no before everyone gets all butt hurt about this let me say this, i work at a hobby shop and i say way more broken T-maxxs then any other car. By far. stay with your GT they are great trucks.

[tagtracer79]

ok all thanks for the advice includung spelling lesson . i'm gonna stick with what i have to fix all that i damaged i'm looking at $114 for it being that i get my tax return next week money problem will be solved ..... still looking at the t-maxx though maybe i will buy it and fix the one i have nothing wrong with having 2 nitros right.... thanks again for all the advice

[tipper]

Originally posted by tagtracer79
ok all thanks for the advice includung spelling lesson . i'm gonna stick with what i have to fix all that i damaged i'm looking at $114 for it being that i get my tax return next week money problem will be solved ..... still looking at the t-maxx though maybe i will buy it and fix the one i have nothing wrong with having 2 nitros right.... thanks again for all the advice

can u give me any pics of the damage of the truck or tell me whitch parts are ruined. just for hecks rightI know how to fix most broken parts to because same thing happened to me:(

[Saboteur]

I saw the Team built GT at ultimate hobbies for about $159 or so. Just waiting till may or so till I get my rc since the weather now is sorta screwy and not perfect running conditions. The Velocity .15 that was on the used SFGP now features a slide carb from the M16. Wonder how it will be in my sedan, as well as a GT?:) :p

[tagtracer79]

here is a list of all thats broken:batt pack w. on/off switch,receiver,crystal,gas tank-the total price on parts at my LHS is $114.oo to fix it all i posted a want ad for the receiver i need but no luck yet they want $70 for a new one at LHS so thats the most expensive piece

[tipper]

Originally posted by tagtracer79
here is a list of all thats broken:batt pack w. on/off switch,receiver,crystal,gas tank-the total price on parts at my LHS is $114.oo to fix it all i posted a want ad for the receiver i need but no luck yet they want $70 for a new one at LHS so thats the most expensive piece

well I might have a reciver and radio for sale if I cannot find a tc3 or pro 3 for sale. I would sell it for 50.00 they are airtronics sport:D need money for new flywheel

[geo8498]

Originally posted by tagtracer79
here is a list of all thats broken:batt pack w. on/off switch,receiver,crystal,gas tank-the total price on parts at my LHS is $114.oo to fix it all i posted a want ad for the receiver i need but no luck yet they want $70 for a new one at LHS so thats the most expensive piece http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=ASCC0387

Parts for the RC10GT at Tower hobby. As for your switch and battery holder, you'd be best to just by-paas the switch and just plug the battery directly into the wire. You might even want to get a rechargable battery pack to replce the AA holder.

[geo8498]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=ASCC0387

[tipper]

Originally posted by geo8498
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=ASCC0387

Parts for the RC10GT at Tower hobby. As for your switch and battery holder, you'd be best to just by-paas the switch and just plug the battery directly into the wire. You might even want to get a rechargable battery pack to replce the AA holder.

ya screw the switch I just unplug the batter pack from the wire.

[Floop]

What does the GT+ do for top speed "out of the box?" I'd also like to know how fast I might be able to get it to go with new gears or a engine or someting?

[Saboteur]

GT plus=30-35mph. With a new engine you can hit 40 as well accelerate a lot quicker.

[RC10's]

35 is a fairly realistic top speed out of the box, a new engine would not neccesarly increase your top speed. Top speed is directly proportional to the peak RPM of the engine, so unless your new engine has higher RPM you wont get much more if any more speed, however the new engine will have more power so it will get to its top speed much faster. Since your new engine may have more power you may also be able to gear it for some more speed and not loose much low RPM performance because the engine has the torque to pull the higher gearing.

[tipper]

MINE RIGHT NOW GOSE 50MPH WITH A NEW ENGINE AND GEARED REALLY LOW SO REALLY NO EXCELLERATION

[Floop]

Is it realistic for me to want to get 60 mph out of a gt? Sorry for all the questions but I'm a noob and want to buy something that I can modify to hit 60. (not that 50 is all that bad either)

Thanks

[speedydave]

If you want a car that goes 60mph, buy a Nitro 4-Tec. :rolleyes:

[tagtracer79]

i'll stick with the on/off switch i had it hard wired and thats the reason it was crashed the wire pulled away for the batt pack and the car went full throttle into a curb so i want the on off switch now as far as rechargeble batts i use them already i have a charger that holds 8 aa batts so no problem there i just charge the batts every night when i'm doing messing with the car.thanks for the suggestions though

[Saboteur]

Offroad vehicles werent intended for such high speeds. A high speed crash can a lot of damage to the truck as well as your wallet. Its natural for 1/8th offroad buggies though to hit 50mph but for a stadium truck, its around the 30s-40s. I'd rather have a truck doing atleast 40mph with some fast acceleration and easily blow past one thats geared to the moon just to hit 60. Think about it.

[Saboteur]

BTW, leave all the high speeds to the onroads. :)

[doesgo]

Can I just cut the crank on this engine to put it in my RC10GT or do I need to use an actual short-shaft engine?

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/os15.jpg

[1tuffRC10]

doesgo, if you haven't bought it yet, don't. That is a pilot shaft engine and is a beast to "rig" up in a GT. Get the short shaft version. Someone on here some time back posted how to make a pilot shaft engine work in a GT but it seemed like too much trouble to me. If you do have the engine already, save your self some time and get a short crank to put in the engine. At around $30 it's worth the money.

tipper, after posting on here about glueing cracks in chassis, I'm not sure I'd want to buy a reciever from you. JMO :(

tagtracer, If you are using upper end servos with higher torque, you should get a rechargable 5 cell pack. Those high torque servos will use a little more energy.

floop, a GT can be geared to run 60 but if you are going to do it in the dirt let me know where this track is, I want to go. A GT is a nitro off road truck that can be raced competitive or used to play in the yard, but it is just not designed to run quite that fast, it is for jumping in dirt and out running NT's LOL

[1tuffRC10]

doesgo, I read your post better, LOL. The thread diameter is larger. AE does not make a clutch nut for it, that I know of. AN OFNA 1/8 scale nut will fit after you cut the shaft, but it is a lot more to getting everything working from there.

[doesgo]

Thanks 1tuffRC10. I don't have the engine yet, I think I'm glad.

I've got an RC10GT that has an old .15 CV-X that I want to replace. Tower has that 15 CV-R for $104 right now, a screamin' deal it seems. They don't have a short shaft on sale, and I don't want to pay $150-plus for a basher engine, but I want something with some power.

The Traxxas TRX 2.5 is interesting, but it seems I'd have a lot of problems putting that in my GT as well, because of crank issues and exhaust routing.

[doesgo]

Now I'm confused for a couple reasons.

1) Tower shows the picture I posted above, but they also have a link to another picture of what I'd be buying, which shows a non-pilot shaft. Here it is:
http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/os15a.jpg

2) The O.S. part number listed in Tower's listing for the 15CV-R matches one on O.S.'s page. The O.S. parts breakdown list from that engine includes a 12CV-R crank, part number 21252000. I entered that number in Tower's search engine and it shows a threaded crank, not a pilot-shaft crank:
http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/os15crank.jpg

3) You mentioned the pilot shaft crank has larger threads than the others. Tower's description lists all the 15 CV-R's thread size as 5mm, including the pilot, threaded, and short shaft versions. I'm not sure what to think now.

[tipper]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
tipper, after posting on here about glueing cracks in chassis, I'm not sure I'd want to buy a reciever from you. JMO :(

floop, a GT can be geared to run 60 but if you are going to do it in the dirt let me know where this track is, I want to go. A GT is a nitro off road truck that can be raced competitive or used to play in the yard, but it is just not designed to run quite that fast, it is for jumping in dirt and out running NT's LOL

well that track is in my back yard and it is 200 square feet large it has a 150 meter straight in it to.

don't be worryed about my radio it looks brand new same with the reciver it has been all redone by my uncle who is a pro at circite board work. the case it a little banged up. I am getting some replys on a car though so I have to see. it u want to go 60mph put a 20 tooth clutchbell in and a 55 tooth spur gear in. works great it is not that slow but not that fast good enought for fun right I can always change it back

[tipper]

Originally posted by doesgo
Thanks 1tuffRC10. I don't have the engine yet, I think I'm glad.

I've got an RC10GT that has an old .15 CV-X that I want to replace. Tower has that 15 CV-R for $104 right now, a screamin' deal it seems. They don't have a short shaft on sale, and I don't want to pay $150-plus for a basher engine, but I want something with some power.

The Traxxas TRX 2.5 is interesting, but it seems I'd have a lot of problems putting that in my GT as well, because of crank issues and exhaust routing.

get a team trinity picco xp.15 that is a great motor faster then the os .15 cv-r engine great torque and rpm to. trust me I have it right now

[doesgo]

Could you explain the difference between an on-road engine and an off-road engine? Are the ports different? Carb? Porting? The tune?

O.S. has some .12 CV-R engines listed as off-road and others as on-road, but the .15 CV-R engines don't list off- or on-road.

[RC10's]

If you really wanna go 60 with an RC get on on-road with a 2 speed because they are meant more for speed. A GT at 60 will be so swirly that one wrong move on the steering and you just broke 50 bucks worth of stuff. A GT is a stadium truck meant to race off-road competitevly. I understand people will use it for other purposes and thats fine, but if you wanna go that fast get something that is meant to go that fast. JMO

[slaf]

Hi all

On my 10GT, I've rebuilt my diff and since I've stripped 2 spurs within 2 fuel tank :( :( My slipper clutch is not too tight, I can turn it with my thumb while I'm holding the rear wheels. But I think my diff is too tight. I can turn my wheels on the oposite direction with no resistance. How can I be sure my diff is adjust properly ?


Another quastion, If my engine idles too high, is this possible that my bel clutch get hot and then melt my plastic spur ?? When idling, the clutch is not engaged but really near....

[ross]

Originally posted by doesgo
Could you explain the difference between an on-road engine and an off-road engine? Are the ports different? Carb? Porting? The tune?

O.S. has some .12 CV-R engines listed as off-road and others as on-road, but the .15 CV-R engines don't list off- or on-road.

There is absolutly no difference between the on and off road engines listed on Tower apart from the carbs. Tower seems to think that a engine with a rotary carb is a offroad engine and a engine with a slide carb is a onroad engine. IMO slide carb is a better carb for offroad and onroad.

[stealthpenguin]

slaf,

Make sure that your gear mesh is not too tight. Make sure by running a piece of paper through your gear mesh. After doing that, it should be at optimal mesh.

Also, make sure that your clutch is alright. THere should be amost no resisteance when you turn your wheels in the same direction. Your clutch may be engaging all the time, which would be bad.

Also, clean out your differentials. Just a little dirt in your bearings and your diff gears can make it very rough.

ALSO, make sure that you differentials are not too tight. If you remove the right axle, there will be a slot for a hex key in the right outdrive. There you can adjust how tight your diffs are. AE recommends that you tighten them all the way down, and then loosen it 1/8 of a turn.

[stealthpenguin]

Ross, maybe they're differentiating between off and on road engines by thread style also. Most trucks use threaded (like the GT), where as a lot of on-roads use either threaded or SG.

Plus, MOST off-road trucks use rot. carbs.

[doesgo]

Thanks for the help, guys.

One more thing. Can I use pull-start mounts and a pull-start flywheel on a non-pull engine? I just bought a new MIP clutch, AE pull-start flywheel, and clutch bell for my existing pull-start engine, but I'm finding it's in pretty rough shape (just aquired the RC10GT).

I'd like to drop in a CV-R non-pull, but I don't want to have to buy new mounts and a flywheel already. I know it'll sit higher in the chassis with pull-start mounts, but as long as my flywheel is a pull-start flywheel, I can't see why that'd be a problem.

[atm92484_3]

They'll work. The non-pullstart parts only lower the engine to the point that if there was a recoil, it would interfere with something.

[doesgo]

Coolio. Now I just have to decide if it's worth it to spend the $7.50 for the non-PS flywheel. The clutch and bell are the same, and I remembered I've got a Trinity one-piece, non-pull mount on hand I can use.

Hey StealthPenguin, didn't you used to be an NMT guy?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by slaf
......I can turn my wheels on the oposite direction with no resistance. ......

That's what it's supposed to do. Try holding your spur (maybe temporarily tighten down the slipper for this test) and hold one wheel so neither the spur or wheel can turn. Now try turning the last wheel. If it "slips" easily, diff too loose, which will cause the balls to slip on the plates, heat up, and melt the balls into the diff ring holes. If it's hard to turn or doesn't budge before the slipper slips, you're good to go.

If it's idling and doesn't move or barely creeps forward, your idle is probably OK. The biggest cause of melted spurs is too tight of a gear lash, adjust your engine position so there's a little "wiggle" of the spur against the clutch bell pinion.

[stealthpenguin]

doesgo,

Yah, I used to have a NMT, but I got rid of it. The GT is loads better. HPI can suck my *&$%.

[doesgo]

LOL! Why did you get rid of the NMT and why such distaste for HPI now? Just curious. I sold my NMT as well, and now I have an RC10GT and a Savage.

[1tuffRC10]

doesga, You can believe me on that thread size on a pilot shaft crank. I found out the hard way. :o Tower has the TR for $119 now but you will need a header for a rear exhaust. As long as you have the same type, pull start or non, flywheel and engine mount, it will work with a bump starter or starter box. If you use a non pull flywheel on a pull start engine mount the flywheel will sit too high on the chassis to get to it to crank the engine. The bad thing with a pull start flywheel is that it is narrower and doesn't work on a starter box as well.

slaf, that sounds like a clutch problem. Which clutch are you using? The bell can get hot enough to melt a spur. I think Robinson Racing makes a better gear. But not the metal one, never a metal spur. JMO

[doesgo]

Thanks for the help.

I didn't trust Tower's info, so I got a .12 CV-R non-pull from Tower for $99 and a non-pull flywheel. I've already got the Trinity mount, so another $8 or whatever for the flywheel is no big deal. I got the $15 discount for ordering over $175 of stuff, so it all worked out. That's a fun little engine, well worth the $99 in my opinion.

[DriveShaft]

I ordered these parts online for my GT the other day. I’m trying to deck out my car in a Blue base / Yellow highlight theme and thought these would look awesome.

However, I’ve seen a lot of photos of GTs lately with all sorts of mods and hop-ups, but not one had these arms. Is there something I don’t know about these things like they have bad performance? Or maybe they are new and not many had had the chance to pick them up?

They are made by RPM

http://www.rc10gthobby.com/new3/RPM-R-arms.jpg


http://www.rc10gthobby.com/new3/RPM-F-arms.jpg

[bubbastump]

i know a guy who races with those but now that hes tied up with a woman he aint been racin much
but he likes em and they seem cool

[DriveShaft]

While I’m on the subject of blue, I want to put blue rims on my GT and i read the best way to get blue rims is to buy white ones and dye them.

Does anyone know what would be the best kind of die to use? has any one tried dyeing their rims them selves?

[stealthpenguin]

RPM parts are great. Very durable. Not a big fan of the blue, myself, but whatever ;) .

[TommyT]

DriveShaft,

There is an article dyeing parts in the book Painting & Detailing R/C Bodies published by R/C Nitro and R/C Car Action. They tell you to use Rit Dye available in most grocery stores or Walmart.

I don't have time to write all the details right now but, it is a great book and you may want to pick it up at your LHS.

Can post details tomorrow if you wish.

TommyT

[doesgo]

My bro-in-law dyed his white wheels with blue RIT and it looks awesome! I was very impressed. Color-matching isn't that easy, but other than that it's great.

[tipper]

Originally posted by DriveShaft
I ordered these parts online for my GT the other day. I’m trying to deck out my car in a Blue base / Yellow highlight theme and thought these would look awesome.

However, I’ve seen a lot of photos of GTs lately with all sorts of mods and hop-ups, but not one had these arms. Is there something I don’t know about these things like they have bad performance? Or maybe they are new and not many had had the chance to pick them up?

They are made by RPM

http://www.rc10gthobby.com/new3/RPM-R-arms.jpg


http://www.rc10gthobby.com/new3/RPM-F-arms.jpg


those are great I have both front and rear. they are very strong. trust me:D

[stealthpenguin]

BTW, doesgo.

Nova (No va) really does mean "doesn't go".

English translations from Spanish are not always just their literal meaning.

[doesgo]

"No" in Spanish is "no", and "va" in spanish is "go".

However, putting them together, "nova", is like putting the words "no" and "table" together and assuming the meaning doesn't change. "No table", however, is significantly different from "notable". In Spanish there is no word "nova" other than the name of an old Chevy or for other product names.

And contrary to urban legend, the Nova did sell rather well in Mexico and Latin America where it was produced well into the '80s, whereas it stopped production in the US in 1979.

There is even a gas station chain in Mexico called "Nova". And if you think they'd name a gas station after something that means "it doesn't go", you're crazy.

So, the summary of today's lesson is: "no va" means "no go", but "nova" isn't a proper Spanish word.

So there. :D

[stealthpenguin]

Um, no. Spanish is NOT a direct translation to English. If you wanted to say that something didnt go, that's exactly how you would say it.

The car doesn't go = el carro no va

Pretty elementary.

[Zilla3boy]

Hi guys, just dropping in to say hi, and that I've finally seen the light. I got rid of my duratrax truck and got a GT.

I've noticed people recommending the trinity tranny brace, has anyone tried the HG one that's a lot cheaper, and is it any good? Also, is the Crescenzi (sp?) brake good for bashing, or is it mostly a racing thing?

Thanks

[doesgo]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
Um, no. Spanish is NOT a direct translation to English. If you wanted to say that something didnt go, that's exactly how you would say it.

The car doesn't go = el carro no va

Pretty elementary.
You totally missed my point, Stealth, and I agree with you.

no va = no go
nova = no direct translation

Further information: http://www.snopes.com/business/misxlate/nova.htm

Probably enough off-topic stuff for today though, huh? :) At least everyone knows the defiition of fun: RC10GT!

[1tuffRC10]

RPM arms are great for bashing but too springy for racing.

Trinity or any brace with 6 holes are good. Crezinski (sp) brakes outlast stock ten times. Work great too!

bubbastump, tell your friend that RC's are cheaper than a woman! Possibaly more fun too! :D

[doesgo]

Hey StealthPenguin, what happened for you to sell the NMT and dislike HPI so much?

[stealthpenguin]

OK, well this is how it ALL went down:

I got my NMT around early December last year. At first I was extremely pleased with it. As far as I knew at the time, it was very fast and it handled pretty well. Since I was an active member at hpiforums.com, I got a lot of tips and suggestions from other people who told me what the best things to upgrade are.

So, I began upgrading. I upgraded the: shocks, clutch, clutch-shoes, springs, servos, and a bunch of other little stuff. Then, I realized, that I shouldn't HAVE to upgrade all that crap. All these little things ought to be standard on a truck. I was already sick of upgrading my car, and there were still 20 other 'essential upgrades' that needed to be done.

On top of that, my car kept on breaking. After very minor accidents, I broke shock tower, A-arms, spurs, and some other little things. This all was very irritating, cause my NMT wasn't exactly cheap (about $400).

So, I decided that I wanted to upgrade before I got dove farther down into the proverbial money pit that is HPI. I tried selling my NMT, but I wasn't getting very much for it. So, I decided I would probably come out better if I traded it instead.

Then, someone approached me about a trade for a XXX-T Matt Francis. I was delighted, because my friend had been wanting to get into the hobby with a electric truck. So, I traded him, and I sold the XXX-T to my friend for $400. I was happy :D .

I then found someone through my local race track (Delta R/C), who was selling a huge lot including a GT FT and a ton of other crap (M8, 2 starter boxes, tons of spares, digital servos) for $550. So, I just saved up another $150 and I bought the GT, and I couldn't be happier.

Now I'm thinking of upgrading my .12 CV-R to a .12 Team Orion Wasp Off-Road. What do you think?

[doesgo]

Wow, that's awesome! Congrats on the vehicle upgrade. I found the NMT needed a lot of little things here and there as well, and it wasn't the toughest thing around by any means.

As for the engine, I've had a GT with a .12 CV-R and a XXX-NT with a Wasp .12 off-road, both for a short time, and they're very similar in performance, with possibly a slight edge to the Wasp.

If your CV-R is worn out, the Wasp is a good choice, but I don't think it's enough better to justify the high cost. Besides, if your CV-R is worn out, get a new one at Tower for $99 (non-pull, slide carb)! They're closing them out right now, mine should be here Thursday. :D

[pitchblend]

just got my ftgt built, its pretty stock i guess. waiting for the engine as we speak

[stealthpenguin]

Doesgo, what is the best .12 engine for the GT (under $200)?

[doesgo]

I don't really have enough experience to answer that. Some swear by RB products, some love the Wasp, and the CV-R is tried-and-true. There are plenty others as well, like Picco, Ofna, Fantom, etc.

If it were my money, I'd probably go with the O.S. .12 TR.

On the other hand, R/C Nitro just did a dyno test on the Ofna/Picco Turbo 7-port and came out with 1.29 hp, which is .04 hp shy of the TRX 2.5 that's in the Maxx, which is the strongest .15 they've ever tested.

They said that engine goes for about $200. The O.S. .12 TR dyno'd to .97hp, if I recall correctly. The .12 CV-R is just shy of that.

The Ofna/Picco is new, however, and I have no idea about tunability, reliability, etc. O.S. has a very good reputation, and I don't see being able to use much more than 1hp anyway. The .12 CV-R and .12 Wasp are both a handful in a 2WD stadium truck, at least for me.

[Zilla3boy]

Does anybody know what HP the stock .15 that comes with the RTR has? I got to drive mine for the first time today (it was used so already broken in), and that sucker is just ballistic! I had a Duratrash Overdrive before this, and I thought it was fast, but now it just looks like a dog.

I am curious as to the HP of the .15, cause if I had any more power, I don't think the truck would be very driveable. As it is, the slightest squeeze of the trigger and it just blasts off. I had to loosen the slipper clutch to stop doing wheelies, and I'm thinking if those other engines have more power, there's no way I could handle one in the dirt.

[stealthpenguin]

Hm... well I want an engine with power to spare. I have good-enough throttle control that having a more powerful engine wouldn't necessarily have adverse effects on my driving. But I would like to have extra power, so if I need to go faster, I have the ability to.

Plus, in terms of performance, O.S. is only a medium-performance engine. They just have very good name recognition as well as good reliability.

[tipper]

hey guys guess what I just got a xxx-nt brand new adam drake edition. I am ow going to upgrade this one. I finished my rc10gt and now I am going to to my xxx-nt

see ya

[stealthpenguin]

I was thinking about:

Sirio .12 Standard Racing Engine (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKX8&P=7)
RB X12 (http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=108_146_147_149&products_id=2825)
Trinity Picco .12 Rear Exhaust (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=tp100&search=Go)
Collari Picco .12 (http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=108_118_119&products_id=2532)

[stealthpenguin]

WallisRacing, how do you like your X12?

[TommyT]

DriveShaft,

Here is the low down on dyeing parts according to what I read, in the excellent book "Painting and Detailing RC Bodies"

1. Get an old 1.5qt to 2qt. pot (one that you will never cook in again) for the Rit Dye.
2. You'll need a stove or hot plate to heat the dye and water mix. (be very careful not to spill any dye. REMEMBER, IT WILL STAIN ALMOST ANYTHING IT COMES IN CONTACT WITH!!! like the counter, floor, clothes...)
3. You'll need some string to suspend the parts from.
4. Dye only light to dark (pref. white)
5. To make "Black" parts use the following recipe: for the liquid Rit Dye use 2 to 4 oz of dye to 3 to 4 cups of water and for the powdered Rit Dye use 1/2 to 1 tablespoon power to 3 to 4 cups water. Bring mixture to a boil then lower to medium. Immerse parts and let set for about 5 minutes trying to avoid small bubbles on the parts. Rinse immediately in water and dry thoroughly with a paper towel and Q-tip.
6. For all other "colors" follow same instructions but only use about half as much dye as for the black and check your parts after the first 30 seconds or so they may already be the desired shade. Remember, the longer the parts sit in the dye and the more dye you used, the darker the color will be.

Dye your parts at your own risk. I take no responsibility for the accuracy of this information or for the result of the process described herein.

Good luck,
TommyT

[DriveShaft]

Thanks for the info. I’m going for a nice deep navy blue. I'll post some pics of my truck here after i get it back together, with the new Rims of course ;)

[stealthpenguin]

Does anyone need a .12 CV-R?

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=124481

[doesgo]

Anyone got any pics (or advice) of a slide-carb linkage setup on a GT? My new CV-R has a slide carb and I'm unsure about how to set it up because of the angle between the servo and the carburetor.

[Floop]

w00t w00t! I just picked up my first RC car today! I popped into my LHS and they had a GT plus just sittin' on the shelf with my name on it.:) Tomorrow's job = break it in. The manual says I only need to use 4 tanks of fuel to break it in, but I've heard elsewhere that I should run a gallon thru it before it's broken in. Which one is right?

[Polk]

Floop: Just follow the break in by the book, or manual as it is..:p If you are a fanatic about the life of your engine and are scared (as i was) about the engine, do an extra tank with the stock needle settings.

Ahh My GT is hacckkkeeddd!!

I have:
Broken Suspension Mounts
Broken Rear body mounts - 1 missing
Bent as tranny brace
Hacked to death (bent, broken and everything else) battery holder
Body had HUGE gaping cracks around where the body posts come through, and and big crack down the side (time to get the shoo goo!)
And many other broken things!!

And i cant afford to replace all of them!!! I quit my job so..yeah..gotta get a new one, fast!

I can only afford to replace the body mounts, suspension mounts and a few other things...

Rocknbil, you getting my PM's??

[RC10's]

In my opinion the best engine in the 200$ or less range would be an RB. I dont think you can get a more powerful engine for less money.

[Polk]

Also I notice when i hold the spur and turn one of the back wheels the other wheel turns in the other direction (normal...) but its is quite "grainy" and "gritty"...But if I dont hold the spur the other wheel doesnt move - the spur does (i think thats normal?)

Anyway, is it time to rebuild the Diff, or anything else? Bearings maybe?

[Polk]

Opp, The engine has had about 4.5L through it, or 1.18 gallons, for you americans....

[stealthpenguin]

RC10, I've been trying to get a hold of a Omega Picco XT-12 for $130 shipped (1 quart through it).

I think those are good engines as well. If I can find a used RB, I might buy it.

[ross]

Originally posted by doesgo
Anyone got any pics (or advice) of a slide-carb linkage setup on a GT? My new CV-R has a slide carb and I'm unsure about how to set it up because of the angle between the servo and the carburetor.

You should have had a seperate sheet of A4 in your manual showing you how to set up a slide carb. If youve got that do it by that, thats the way Ive done and found it to be no problem. Im also using a slide carb on a CVR, you wont be dissapointed!

You can sort of see it on this pic, but its not a very good shot:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ross2000/newpics/truck16.JPG

Note that the pic above is taken with the Crenzeni drum brake so thats why the brake linkage has all the bends, if your using the drum brake you can use a straight peice of linkage wire.

[doesgo]

The instructions! What a concept! :D Didn't even think of that. I should be receiving my engine tomorrow, so I'll have a look ASAP.

Thanks a lot for the picture, I can see it clearly enough. Obviously the angle isn't an issue.

[1tuffRC10]

polk, sounds like dirt in the thrust bearings. This is the most common problem with a "crunchy" diff. Probably time for a rebuild. After building the diff, put one of those dust seals for ball cups between the diff screw and the plastic cover that slides in the outdrive.

[tipper]

Originally posted by Floop
w00t w00t! I just picked up my first RC car today! I popped into my LHS and they had a GT plus just sittin' on the shelf with my name on it.:) Tomorrow's job = break it in. The manual says I only need to use 4 tanks of fuel to break it in, but I've heard elsewhere that I should run a gallon thru it before it's broken in. Which one is right?

1 galoon is great for break in and 4 tanks is not enought. heres what u do break the engine in with the gas u will be using for running it. let it idle in one stop for 4 tanks like 1 tanks of idleing bring it inside for a half inhour go out again and do the same. then after those 4 tanks u can drive it aroung the 5th tank drive it around on cortter throttle same with the 6th tank on the 7th tank u can start giving it more gas like going at 1/4 throttle and pulling the throttle all the way for a second and do that for the 8th tanks to. but between each tank let the engine cool down for 1/2 an hour. then u can drive it. make shure it is really rich when idleing and driving it should be spitting fuel out of the exhaust pipe. it should make a make on the road of al the gas and oil.
get it

[Mystracing]

You should break your engine in according to the manual. Depending on the hardness of the metals used the break in proceedure is different. The break in proceedure above is great for a Picco, but will prematurely wear an OS if not lock it up. Just follow the manual.

[rocknbil]

SORRY POLK been very busy, I have 7 trees that have fallen victim to the famous (or infamous) Oregon wood boring beetle, I have been playing lumberjack for about a week trying to regain control of my property.

I will do what I can but have to ask . . .

How in the HELL did you thrash a GT in under a month? :D

[easysport_flyer]

I was think about getting an associated rc10 GT are they any good? i just want a basher
thanks!

[Polk]

Originally posted by rocknbil

How in the HELL did you thrash a GT in under a month? :D


Well.... I have landed quite a few jumps upside down, i guess....Only 1 or 200!!

Sorry to hear about the trees dude...

[ross]

Originally posted by easysport_flyer
I was think about getting an associated rc10 GT are they any good? i just want a basher
thanks!

Yes, they are a excellent basher, they are VERY tough, I have never broken anything on front or rear on my GT except one front knuckle when I hit a concrete track marker. I cannot fault the durability of the GT.


Ross.

[easysport_flyer]

OK THATS IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!






































i am getting one he he he:D :D :D :D :D :D :D

[stealthpenguin]

The RC10GT is an excellent truck. I jump mine very frequently offraod and I must say that it FLYS. My friends' T-maxx and XXX-T cannot touch it. And even though I"m not an expert at jumping yet, it's amazing durability can compensate for my fair share of nose-dives and back-flops.

I have yet to break a part (although my fuel tank's gasket failed), where as my friend's T-maxx has broken a part everytime we've gone out.

The GT's handling and speed are also top-notch.

Get one now! :D

[Conman]

It's a very durable truck.

[1tuffRC10]

ONE GALLON OF FUEL FOR BREAK IN?

:confused:

That would take over two hours of running. Broke in and wore out!

I would follow the manufacturers instructions. Be sure that when it shuts off that the piston is not at the top. One time of doing that and you can lock it up or stretch the sleve. Either way it's junk.

[Floop]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
...Be sure that when it shuts off that the piston is not at the top...

Other than removing the glow plug is there an easy way of doing this?

[1tuffRC10]

Just take your finger and "roll" the flywheel till you find a tight place. This should be just the start of the "tight" place or where compression begins. Then just move it back about a quarter turn and it'll be ok. I always try to make sure that the piston isn't sitting at the top. Just as long as the flywheel turns freely, you should be ok. I hope this helps, I'm not too good with words or technical terms. LOL

[Floop]

Thanks. I'm sure I'll get a lot more good tips and info from these forums during my RC "life".

My GT is now broken-in. Tomorrow's job=tune it for optimal performance.:eek: Wish me luck.:D

Thanks again
Floop

[MORTER MAN]

hey guys i am getting a GT i live at 7000 feet and tower hobbies told be to get an O.S. r5 glow plug is that right? i will be running trinity monster horses power 20% in it so is that glow plug ok?

[Polk]

Is it alright to try and start an engine with a starter box with the pull start still on it?

[RC10's]

yes you can start it with a starter box with the pull start still attached.

[rocknbil]

Well Polk (bill says in a thick and AWFUL AMERICAN ACCENT :D LOL) look over the last few posts . . . the only reason I asked is landing on your lid doesn't affect the suspension mounts and such . . . probably bad luck. The GT is indeed tough but I've seen bulkheads and A-arms break with the slightest bump from the wrong direction.

I'll go over your list this weekend, route through my box (again! :) ) and order some stuff, I can probably come up with a few goodies I need too. :D

[doesgo]

Originally posted by Polk
Is it alright to try and start an engine with a starter box with the pull start still on it?
Absolutely! I do it all the time (1/8 buggy, RC10GT, HPI NMT).

[johnybravo129]

I just got my rc10gt used with the old style tub chassis. I want to get the new chassis but I hear you also need to get some other things with it to make the conversion. What all do I need? I have the new stealth trans so I don't think I need a new trans mount. The ones I'm finding cheap on ebay come with all new servo mounts, front bumper, rear battery tray, and reciever tray. Don't I alos need a motor mount? Also, what do you all reccomend for driveshafts? My cars a bump start and I'm waiting on a box, but I got it started using something I made and when I was driving it around for the second time i gunned and and it stopped moving. Upon closer inspection I notice the drive shaft (universal) had not only popped out of the outdrive but bent. I'm guessing it was bent before as I hadn't even hit any jumps or beaten on the car yet. Its a minor end but I doubt I can fix it good enough. I'll keep it for now but what do you reccommend for a replacement? I hear MIP CVD's are the way to go. Will they pop out and/or break as easily? Thanks for all help in advance.

[doesgo]

Tower sells a flat chassis upgrade kit for $50.

Pullstart:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUX81&P=7

Non-pull:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUX82&P=7

Do a search for "RC10GT chassis" on Tower's site for more stuff.

[1tuffRC10]

johnny, I think the kit has everything you will need to convert it to the new chassis.

[atm92484_3]

I got the conversion kit right when it came out and I didn't need to buy anything additional to covert my tub Team GT to the new chassis. Plus it also includes the upgraded suspension hubs and inner mounts for the rear.

Johnny, the CVDs are defiently the way to go. If you do manage to bend a bone, it can be replaced separately instead of having to get an entirely new driveshaft.

[Henry G]

Hey guys, I need to finish off the charge in my glo starter because tomorow I will be having my friend help me tune my car. So, my question is, is it okay to leave a plug in the starter to finish off the battery? BTW, it's outside of the engine.

[Henry G]

Hey guys, I need to finish off the charge in my glo starter because my friend and I will be tuning my engine. So, my question is, can I leave a plug in the starter to finish off the battery? BTW, the plug is not in the engine.

[RC10's]

why do you need to drain the battery? just charge it