Associated RC10GT Forum v6.0

[tagtracer79]

I just spent the past 4 hours working on my gt let me tell ya they do break :D lol well its to late to test it out tonight but i'll be up in the morn its been a week since i've last ran the truck and i'm just dying to get it out.Just scared that something won't be right and it will wreck again..."crossing fingers" hope everything works right on it.ok anyway i have a question how hard would it be to putt some monster size tires on my gt i'm talking about something like the tires on a t-maxx anyone have an idea what i'm looking at here?

[Motorman007]

do anyone Know joseph holmes from san clemente, Orange County?


if so please hit me up or till him to call me. thanx
dibs

[tagtracer79]

woohoo it lives again..i ran the truck today and everything works great had a little glitch when i started it but that was due to a wire getting pinched in the throttle fixed now..:) i got a race this weekend can't wait had to miss last weeks race due to the truck being broke i can't wait to get out and run it on the track.I am looking for some advice though,when i'm running at the track there is a jump that i almost always land nose first off of any idea how i can lighten the front end some to maybe get it to land properly i'm tired of watching it flip end over end.....

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Henry G
Hey guys, I need to finish off the charge in my glo starter....

Cycling any nicad is a good idea, but don't use the one in your engine, it will just wear it out faster. Use an old one, put it on and just leave it till it stops glowing.

Originally posted by tagtracer79
...how hard would it be to putt some monster size tires on my gt....

Wel not hard but you don't *really* want to do that, it would make it high-centered and screw up the geometry - it would handle very funny.

... when i'm running at the track there is a jump that i almost always land nose first off of any idea how i can....get it to land properly .....

Tag before you go altering your suspension maybe it's you're approach.

If you consistently nose-in on EVERY JUMP, I would indeed say you can fiddle with your suspension, but if it's only one or two jumps, see solution B.

First, think about this. As you begin to climb the slope of the jump, your truck is changing direction vertically. The front suspensions compresses. then by the time the front wheels get halfway up the jump, the front springs react, pushing the nose up (away from the ground,) right? At this point your rear wheels hit the bottom of the jump and begin to compress. Now what happens is by the time your rear wheels begin to react and push the rear end away from the ground, your front is in a light counter-reaction to the first push away from the ground and wants to tip back toward the ground. Already, before you've left the jump, your truck is rotating forward. Now you go airborne and there's no resistance anywhere, the rear end keeps moving away from the ground and over you go (see "aerial tricks" below.)

If this happens on every jump, you can try some things. See if you can limit the amount of bounce in the rear by just increasing the rear oil weight. This wil slow down the rate at which it bounces back when the rear wheels compress against the slope.

If you do OK on other jumps and it's just one that's a problem, think about the above kinetics and what you can do while driving to alter them without slowing down. My favorite trick is just as the front wheels are about to hit the jump, just as fast as I can I give a full flick on brake. Just a split second, I mean as fast as your finger can move and get back on the gas. If it's a BIG jump, I do this just before I reach the peak. What happens here is this causes the nose to drop for a split second so when it gets back on the gas, the truck is rottating toward the rear. More ofthe nthan not I have to perform aerial tricks to keep from flipping over backwards!

Aerial tricks: When you're in the air, the only tool you have at your disposal is the mass of the rotating wheels. If you're pitching forward, give a blip or two on the gas (don't hold it down! A blip.) This causes the wheels to agressively spin forward, putting a little torque on the rear downward, and can sometimes slow down or reverse the forward pitch.

If you're pitching backward, hit the brakes while you're in the air. Same concept, it will try to change the rotation to flatten out the nose when it's pointing skyward.

[easysport_flyer]

wow thats a lot of words lol:eek: :eek:

[bubbastump]

well gt is almost rebuilt brom tires up
gonna use t6hisweekends race as a setup guide and if it rocks heck im gonna for a win or top 5 in a main

[bubbastump]

taaa daaaaa

[bubbastump]

oops
ok i gots rpm ballcups and rear bulkhead
punisher hingepins and titianium turn buckles
trc sonics (back tires)
os .12cvr
rpm shock spacers
gs shock kit seals
special stuff for diff
mip shiny cvd
and other secrets im sworn not to tell

[Polk]

Hey all

Took the GT out again today and it ran sweeet (as always :p)

But I noticed everytime I land a jump (im getting better!) i hear the chassis slap the ground. Do I need to put a heavier shock oil in, or stiffer springs?

My suspension is all stock right now.

Thanks

[bubbastump]

look on bottom where r the scratches at from slapping bottom?
how is it jumping? nose high or low?
i would try a small spacer first or wait when did u last change oil in shocks?
clean and rebuild and get gs racing 1/10 scale shock rebuild kit.
the lil seals work wonders

[Polk]

All the scracthes are near the end of the chassis. I have never rebuilt my shocks since i got the GT (March)and have had about 4 Litres of fuel through it.

Most of the time it is jumping flat in the air, and when i drop it evenly from about waist height i hear it slap on the end to.

Got a link for that kit?

Thanks

[Floop]

OK, I know this is gonna be a dumb questioin but here goes anyway... I saw where it said somewhere to prime your engine to get it started easier. My question: how does one prime the engine? dump some fuel in the carb? My arm gets tired pulling that darn string all the time trying to get it started.:rolleyes: Ohh well... at least I can tell the wife that the GT can double as excersice equipment.:D

[Polk]

Heres how I do it:

1. Fill the tank with fuel
2. Pinch the pressure line going form the tank to the pipe
3. Open the tank lid all the way
4. Let it go and let it snap shut
5. Watch fuel flow nice and easily to the carb
6. Realise the pressure line


Done :D

[speedydave]

Put your finger over the pipe's stinger and pull the starter cord until fuel just about reaches the carb, or just as it reaches the carb. Be sure not to do it too much though, or you'll flood the engine.

[bubbastump]

sorry gs site is down but goto lhs and ask for the gs racing 1/10 scale shock rebuild kit
they cost like 3 bux

[bubbastump]

http://www4.tpg.com.au/users/rikim/info6.htm
here u go

[bubbastump]

o doesnt say the gt or associated but i use them and a few other gt racers use them

[stealthpenguin]

Are there any worth-while transmission upgrades?

[stealthpenguin]

I'm SO tempted to get the Sirio .12 ... such awesome specs!

Does anyone have one in their GT?

[Polk]

Originally posted by bubbastump
http://www4.tpg.com.au/users/rikim/info6.htm
here u go


My LHS is useless, do I really need these?

Can i rebuild the shocks without them? What purpose do they serve?

Thanks

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by Polk
Heres how I do it:

1. Fill the tank with fuel
2. Pinch the pressure line going form the tank to the pipe
3. Open the tank lid all the way
4. Let it go and let it snap shut
5. Watch fuel flow nice and easily to the carb
6. Realise the pressure line


Done :D

Exactly!!!! :cool:

[stealthpenguin]

Jamedup:

How do you like your MT-12? I am seriously considering getting one.

[stealthpenguin]

Can someone give me a link for the aluminum stealth-tranny case? My case threads stripped. :(

[stealthpenguin]

ONE more question.

Where can I find the Crescenzi Racing shock/tranny dust covers?

[Floop]

Here's another newbish question for ya... what's the difference between a slide carb and a rotary carb? What makes one better than the other?

[tallyrc]

from crescenzi racing here (http://www.rc10gthobby.com/index.html)

[1tuffRC10]

Floop, the rotary carb is smoother on the power than the slide thus it is better for off road.

penguin, the titanium top shaft and idler with the stock diff gear seems to work for me. The aluminum cases are not worth it IMO. Just to remember to run the case screws in till they "stop". DO NOT OVERTGHTEN. I use a dab of CA glue on the screws to keep them tight. Bayside hobbies is a distributor for Crezinski products. Their tranny saver seals work great, but get a couple of packs.

[Polk]

Morning everyone.

I soaked my bearings in WD-40 last night (all i had) and man were they dirty!!!!!! But anyway, should I do anything to them before i put them back in? Some sort of grease of anything?

Thanks

[stealthpenguin]

Well, the case threading was stripped when i acquired it, so there's not too much I can do about it now. I may as well get a new case.

[CHEVYMAN07]

Well my cv-rx powered t-maxx has been given me some tuning problems, but I still want to get something nitro. I have an e-maxx and love electrics but would like a reliable nitro for once. I am either going to buy an RC10GT or an RC10T3. I am probably going to be racing on the weekends and bashing on the weekdays. I would like a great handleing truck to. What do yall think of the Rc10gt plus? How reliable is the engine in it? Thanks again

[Polk]

Well I am puzzled.

I just re-built my rear shocks and put in some Team Losi 50wt oil but, in the rear shocks there was no oil at all!!! Not even a drop, just a small amount on top of the shock piston-it was greyish blakcish, why wasnt there any oil, where did it go?!!?!?

I have to order some harder springs from tower as well, im gonna get the Rear spring kit-part no. LXBVG0.

:D

[Nitrogt10]

I have the RC10GT RTR and I want the O.S. .15 CV-RX (S) w/10ER Rotary Carb.
iwas wondering it i could use the same manifold from my AE 15 on it.

Also i want to know what would be better. A slide carb or a rotary carb.
A friend told me that silde carbs have more power but some people say that rotary carbs are the best for off road.:confused:

[bubbastump]

Originally posted by Polk
My LHS is useless, do I really need these?

Can i rebuild the shocks without them? What purpose do they serve?

Thanks
they serve as a seal preventing leaks
makin shocks work better and longer

[bubbastump]

no oil is cause it leaks out get the gs racing shock rebuild kit and replace o rings and install the bladder
trust me
i swear on em

[Polk]

Oh well to late...Maybe next time then.

Ive ordered a HG transmission brace form tower as well, I would have preferred the trinity tranny brace but i cant afford that right now and the HG one is half the price of the trinity one.

:D

[1tuffRC10]

Nitrogt10, a slide carb is quicker on the power but is too much like a light switch, on or off. Not much on midrange power. The stock header will work on most side exhaust engines.

polk, the grease will attract dirt. So will that WD40. JMO

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by Polk
My LHS is useless, do I really need these?

Can i rebuild the shocks without them? What purpose do they serve?

Thanks

You can rebiuld your shocks without the bladders and get them right but with the bladders it makes getting the the shocks the same easier. The bladders keep the shock from hydrolicing (is that a word?) when the shock is fully compressed. GS makes some good O-rings.

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
Jamedup:

How do you like your MT-12? I am seriously considering getting one.

I love "them":D..... They put out good useable power from bottom to top and they last a long time when taking care of. They are the longest lasting engines that I've used so far.

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by Polk
Well I am puzzled.

I just re-built my rear shocks and put in some Team Losi 50wt oil but, in the rear shocks there was no oil at all!!! Not even a drop, just a small amount on top of the shock piston-it was greyish blakcish, why wasnt there any oil, where did it go?!!?!?

I have to order some harder springs from tower as well, im gonna get the Rear spring kit-part no. LXBVG0.

:D

#50 oil and you're putting stiffer springs on it too?:eek: But hey, whatever works for you. ;) You can also try #3 (I think) pistons to harden the rebound.

The greyish goop left in your shocks is the aluminum wearing inside of your shock cylinder mainly due to driving with no oil in them. Shocks are very important for a good handeling and stable driving truck. The thick aluminum goop is one reason why I was never in a big hurry to change from plastic bodied shocks to aluminum.

[ross]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
Can someone give me a link for the aluminum stealth-tranny case? My case threads stripped. :(

Dont bother with the aluminium one, ive heard some dodgy stuff on them, like they get hot. Instead put some self tapping screws into your exsisting gear box, works great and tightens down every time.

[tipper]

my radio is beeping and I have no clue why it said on the net it is the throttle but I tryed that please help wana drive my truck. every wire is good to no broken connections

[bubbastump]

battery might be low did u try batteries?
or radio is bad

[bubbastump]

well another raceday more problems
1 st quall i was just stupid forgot to threadlock motor mount and motor got loose and shot down spur
2 qual switched to new radio xs3 and had to setup on a roll took it easy
3 qual ok mo problems
qualed 9 in b (next to last)
finished 3rd 7/10 sec from second and a bump into a main
maby next race
i love this but its burnin me out

[pitchblend]

i have an os -cvx in my fact team gt, it seems as if when i pull the throttle to full i get less speed then when im acceling and using about 3/4 throttle. i know the stock tuned pipe has a low end punch not a high end and im pretty sure my slipper isnt too loose, any thoughts or ill i have to settle for 3/4 throttle

[stealthpenguin]

Two questions:

1. Where can I find linkage wire?
2. I need a more compact RE header, anyone know of one?

[atm92484_3]

For the linkage wire, go to the airplane section of your LHS and get some 2-56 pushrod. For the header, check out either the Trinity or Losi headers.

[doesgo]

As a result of jumping over a small building with my GT today, I broke my tranny case.

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/gttranny.jpg

Do I just need a new case to fix this problem, and is there any strengthening I can do (braces or stronger parts or something) to prevent it from happening again?

Oh, and clearing the building made it all worthwhile!

[stealthpenguin]

Thanks atm!

[Railman]

Stealth,
In addition to the Losi, & Trinity, check out the Mugen header. It's even more compact, & is said to perform very well. It's very different in design. Steve Pond posted a pict on here a while back, but I can't remember where.
Joe

[RC10's]

Get a new radio, that jaguar thing is the biggest piece of junk ive ever seen, it isnt fit to be in a radio shack car. I am frustrated at AE for putting such garbage in good cars, funniest thing is the rtr electrics have the Hi-tec Lynx radio.

[stealthpenguin]

I remember someone mentioning drilling a hole in their rear shock tower to set up a drum-brake with a slide carb.

How/where should I do this?

BTW: I just picked up a MT-12 w/ a slide carb, and I can't wait to get it fired up! Also, a Trinity Truck header is on its way too.

[Polk]

Hey

Does the GT RTR Plus use metric of american measurements for the screws?

I need 1 hex driver for the screws holding on the shocks, rear body mounts, tranny brace, etc.

What is the size of those screws?

Thanks

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
.... in the rear shocks there was no oil at all.....

The most common cause of this is actually overfilling the shocks. When you fill the shocks, push the piston all the way into the shock body, allowing excess to run out, then cap it in this position. Otherwise, the pressure caused by the displacement when the shock compresses with have nowhere to go but through the seals, blowing them out and causing leaks.

... do I really need these? .. (bladders)

No.

[ross]

stealthpenguin,

Yeah, its on the Creszenci site, look under slide carb suggestions or something simular and it will show you. Im having the same problem.

Polk,

The GT uses "american" size hexes or imperial has they are also known :) The size you are looking for is 3/32

[pitchblend]

i have an os -cvx in my fact team gt, it seems as if when i pull the throttle to full i get less speed then when im acceling and using about 3/4 throttle. i know the stock tuned pipe has a low end punch not a high end and im pretty sure my slipper isnt too loose, any thoughts or ill i have to settle for 3/4 throttle please any help would be greatly apreciated

[dog8spam]

Can you use those Tyco RC 8 AA cell battery packs in a transmitter? I found one in my closet all I will need to do is install some connectors.

[Polk]

Originally posted by rocknbil
The most common cause of this is actually overfilling the shocks. When you fill the shocks, push the piston all the way into the shock body, allowing excess to run out, then cap it in this position. Otherwise, the pressure caused by the displacement when the shock compresses with have nowhere to go but through the seals, blowing them out and causing leaks.



Well you can blame associated for that, i bet the fronts are also empty...

[Floop]

Well you can blame associated for that, i bet the fronts are also empty...

I guess I should check mine as well... the rear shocks seem awfully weak and spongey. My GT is only a week old.

[ross]

Originally posted by pitchblend
i have an os -cvx in my fact team gt, it seems as if when i pull the throttle to full i get less speed then when im acceling and using about 3/4 throttle. i know the stock tuned pipe has a low end punch not a high end and im pretty sure my slipper isnt too loose, any thoughts or ill i have to settle for 3/4 throttle please any help would be greatly apreciated

If its a sudden bog down when you go full throttle then your high speed needle is to lean so richen gradually until it stops doing it. However if its a gentle bog down then its probaly to rich. The low end needle could also be to lean. The easiest way of sorting it out is to set the needles back to factory settings and then working from there.

Thats the only thing I could think of that could cause that problem.



Ross.

[RC10's]

pull off your air filter and make sure that when your radio is at full throttle that your carb is open all the way too. Once your sure your trimmed right try re tuning a little as ross suggested.

[stealthpenguin]

How do you attach a throttle return spring when using a slide carb?

[Stix]

Hello all, my first post here, been over in the X-factor thread for too long :) anyways, i bought my RC10 used (i've had it for about a year now, two sets of back tires, a diff and many clutch bearings later) from a guy that had it for about 9 months, runs really good, but i have a few questions that ya'll might be able to help me on. First, i've jimmied with the High and low needles on the carb, and still can't get it to idle without engaging the clutch. So, when i start it, i have to prop the back wheels up with my foot while i pin the body back on. Secondly, does anyone else have any problems with the clutch totally destroying bearings? about every ten tanks the clutch chews em up and spits em out:o . I'm on deployment in the navy now, so i won't be able to get it runnin again till i get back, reason being the nite before i left i yanked the engine out to have the better half take in to the LHS to have em yank the backplate, put a newer style one in (the kind that doesn't have the starter shaft held in by the recoil unit, my one way bearing is messed up) and all that, including new motor mount screws ( i beheaded mine :o ). Also, as a side note, one of my dogbones, the thing has been twisted 90 degrees somehow, the other one is still straight, must be the power from the motor, even though it's an older motor. anyways, hope ya'll can help me!

Stix:cool: :cool:

[Stix]

also, to add to the list of things i've thrashed on my truck, stinkin motor mount kept comin loose (due to slightly beheaded screws) and eatin my spur gear...now i keep an extra on hand at all times :D . also broke a front suspension arm on a stop sign pole..i was kinda happy about that because it dented the pole (metal). Also, i'm running the stock disc brake, and it seems like it's "glazed", by the looks of it and reduced stoppin power (could be the good reason why i smacked a pretty high concrete curb..bent the frame a little at the front, didn't break anything, took a heckuva chunk outta the curb and knocked my muffler off, didn't even kill it LOL) bout all i got for now :D

Stix:cool: :cool:

[tipper]

hey look at the jumps from rcx I am going to build some of them in my yard

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/rcx/dirttrack.jpg

[doesgo]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
How do you attach a throttle return spring when using a slide carb?
I attached a Losi TRS to the throttle/brake servo on the brake side pulling forward. I attached the other end to a screw that goes through the chassis. Works great (my crystal fell out of my receiver a couple times last weekend, so the TRS was tested a couple times).

If my linkage comes off the carb I'm screwed though, since it's not directly connected to the slide. I couldn't see any other good way to set one up.

[stealthpenguin]

Do you have a pic?

[doesgo]

Not at the moment, but I can take one this evening and post it.

[stealthpenguin]

Okie dokie.

[bubbastump]

whooo hoooo im ordering my brake from cresini friday along with a bunch more stuff. Icant wait till i get it
almost done with ollady's gt so she can race the trinity race and some club races

[CoryL]

Hey I had my truck run away from me yesterday and hit a parked car.(Sniff Sniff) I taco'ed my chassis. Its got a 45 degree bend behind the front brace. Can I just bend it back or won't that work?If not I was thinking of making my own two deck chassis.What do you think?
Cory

[doesgo]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
Do you have a pic?
Here's my TRS setup. It's a tub chassis, but it'd work on a flat chassis just the same.

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/gttrs.jpg

[stealthpenguin]

Um, actually I was hoping for a method taht would hook directly to the carb, so that it would still work if hte linkage was disconnected.

[doesgo]

I mentioned it wasn't like that in my original post. :p

[Zilla3boy]

I don't know if it would work or not, but I would put that little thing the TRS hooks to under the left front tranny brace screw, hook the spring on it, and hook the other end to the slide carb ball.

I don't know what that little thingy is called, but it goes under the screw and has a loop on it to hook up the spring. Maybe that would work for you, penguin?

[doesgo]

Good idea, Zilla3boy. I might try that myself, I'd definitely rather have it pulling the carb closed than pulling the servo.

[Synthesis5]

ok i just officially made it. i just order my first nitro rc, which is a rc10gt, off of tower hobbies. since i am completely new to this whole rc thing, what should i expect as some of my first priorities in this new truck?
also , someone told me to order some extra glow plugs, is this neccassary???

whats the first thing i should upgrade etc. ???

[Railman]

I use a rubber band on my MT12 slide carb. I just wrap it around the carb, & over the throttle ball on the carb. I use two wraps on it. You just need to keep an eye on how the band holds up, but mine seem to last a very long time without degrading. I then also use a setup similar to doesgo on the servo as well.
Joe

[stealthpenguin]

Railman:

How do you like your MT-12?

[stealthpenguin]

Do progressive resevoirs make a big difference?

[Floop]

Originally posted by Synthesis5
whats the first thing i should upgrade etc. ??? I kind of wondered this as well. I would be looking for something that improves handling at the moment. I seem to have a hard time easing into the throttle and always end up spinning out when trying to take off. Might I want to look for better tires? New parts for the suspension perhaps?

LOL... I've already stripped the spur (?) gear... all 66 teeth were flattened.:eek: Do those gears come metal? or am I stuck with plastic? I just noticed yesterday that I have now also lost a screw that holds the exaust header on. LHS didn't have any on-hand.:mad: Oh well, guess I'll have to wait a week or so.:rolleyes:

[Floop]

Oh, and can I get a larger gas tank for this thing? the stock tank seems to run out pretty quickly.:confused:

[Polk]

Wow, cant say Ive had that many problems with the GT! The only thing I have broken is a suspension mount and thats cause I suck at jumping!

New Era Models (http://www.neweramodels.com) Makes a larger tank for the GT

I havent stripped a spur yet, always always always make sure you use threadlock n the engine mount screws!

About the sliding when taking off, check your tires, does it slip on concrete, or loose dirt? Try tightening your slipper clutch just a tad and see if it makes a difference.

[Polk]

Originally posted by Synthesis5
ok i just officially made it. i just order my first nitro rc, which is a rc10gt, off of tower hobbies. since i am completely new to this whole rc thing, what should i expect as some of my first priorities in this new truck?
also , someone told me to order some extra glow plugs, is this neccassary???

whats the first thing i should upgrade etc. ???

Yea get a few more plugs, while breaking in the engine you may go through a few.

I think one of your first upgrades should be the RPM Large Front Bumper (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXJ6&P=7) This baby will bounce off anything!!! It will protect the whole front end of the GT - arms, suspension, etc. A definate upgrade I would say. And also maybe RPM Reciever Box (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDGR1&P=7). After that and once you get the GT you will know and see what you think you need to upgrade.

read the manuals and break in procedure all first and make sure you know excactly what you are gonna do for break in, but most of all, have fun!!!!

:D

[Polk]

Gargh, why do I always think of something to write after the post!!

Anyway, do you guys think it is worth it to buy the MIP Super Diff rebuild kit (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAX15&P=M) for someone who is rebuilding there diff for the first time? How do you know when to rebuild your diff?

Thanks

[Floop]

Originally posted by Polk
Wow, cant say Ive had that many problems with the GT! The only thing I have broken is a suspension mount and thats cause I suck at jumping!

New Era Models (http://www.neweramodels.com) Makes a larger tank for the GT

I havent stripped a spur yet, always always always make sure you use threadlock n the engine mount screws!

About the sliding when taking off, check your tires, does it slip on concrete, or loose dirt? Try tightening your slipper clutch just a tad and see if it makes a difference. ...must keep in mind that this is my very first RC truck... electric or nitro. I expect to beat the crap out of it before learning how to drive and take care of it. :D Guess that's why I chose the GT... cause I hear it's built like a brick... well you know, outhouse.;)

It slips on loose dirt, I haven't driven much on concrete. I'll try to figure out how to tighten the slipper cluch and give it a try.

[1tuffRC10]

Polk, I tried the MIP diff rebuild kit and didn't think it was as smooth as the factory stuff. The stock GT diff balls are better. If you hold one wheel and turn the other and it feels like it's got rocks in it, it's time to rebuild.

floop, try a longer bolt in the header with a lock nut on the back. It's tough to get them on but they do not back out.

stix, if you are still running the stock clutch try to clean the shoes by scuffing them with some fine sand paper. Also the clutch bell then clean the bell with brake cleaner. The stock bearings are the best I've tried so far, but the MIP clutch is much better than stock. It will allow the engine to idle better without the clutch dragging as much.

FYI, My trick of trimming the tips of the MIP clutch bit me in a Q this weekend. The clutch is about wore out anyway so I put it in the #4 position and it worked great in high traction. Ran 5 minute main and had over half of tank of fuel left. Will find out if it will work on a blue grove track this weekend.;) BTW I WON! :D

[bubbastump]

spur gear is flat cause u didnt set the mesh right
do not get a metal spur or u will most likely burn diff up
i use the upgraded diff and a good ol plastic spur
plastic spur is easy and cheap to change


a 5 min main where do u race ?
we have 5 min quals
and mains r 20 or more min for a main

[slaf]

Does someone ever try to install a Traxxas TRX 2.5 engine into a 10GT ???

[ross]

Originally posted by Polk
Gargh, why do I always think of something to write after the post!!

Anyway, do you guys think it is worth it to buy the MIP Super Diff rebuild kit (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAX15&P=M) for someone who is rebuilding there diff for the first time? How do you know when to rebuild your diff?

Thanks

Check out the Cresenzi diff rebuild kit, looks excellent and great value.

slaf,

it will work, should be a great engine in the GT, very powerful.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Synthesis5
....since i am completely new to this whole rc thing, what should i expect as some of my first priorities in this new truck? ....

Welcome aboard, nitro can be frustrating or a total blast, depending on your patience level.

Priority one is learn everything you can about tuning and what to do and not to do. Go to http://www.rccaraction.com and search for the words tuning, nitro, and glow plug, these will turn up some VERY good articles you need to know almost by heart. Tuning is the single thing that frustrates new RC'ers, sometimes out of the hobby. It does require some patience to "get it" and be able to consistently start and run your nitro. Generaly takes about a month.

Be patient, in breaking in the engine, in learning what you're doing right and wrong, until it becomes comfortable. Quite often I can tell people are very close to "getting it" but the frustration level makes them want to give up.

Always always ALWAYS be very conscious of the state of your transmitter/receiver and the battery charges. Transmitter ON FIRST, the nRX, RX OFF FIRST, then TX, make sure there's always a signal going to the car before taking it live. If you're at full throttle and you lose a signal guess what? Buh-bye, until it hits something or blows the engine.

Which brings me to the next one, resist the urge to take it out to the Bonneville flats, open it up, and let it go for as long as you can. Nitro engines are designed to be at full open throttle for about 3-6 seconds at a time - any more and the very least you'll do is shorten it's life, sometimes it will go "ping" for good.

Lastly get in the habit of tuning every time you run. You cannot tune it and leave it. Differences in temp and humidity from day to day and even hour to hour will change the way it runs. Heat is your biggest enemy, you should begin getting bervous if it's running over 250º.

That should keep you busy, after all that think about the hop-ups! :D


Originally posted by Floop
. . . . I seem to have a hard time easing into the throttle and always end up spinning out when trying to take off.....

Floop you don't need a hop-up for this. You have a single problem, and your GT comes equipped with the best thing to handle it . . . .

Slipper Clutch.

Loosen up your slipper clutch so that, on the surface you're running on, when you nail the throttle from a dead stop, you can hear the clutch slip and the wheels don't slip. It should fully engage in 3-6 feet, you can tell if it's engaging by the sound of the motor. This will definately solve your problem.

The amount of slipper you will need will definately change for different surfaces, just like tuning always carry your clutch adjustment tool in your back pocket.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
...How do you know when to rebuild your diff?.....

The MIP is supposed to have harder balls, I don't think it matters much.

Hold the spur so it can't turn, then turn one wheel. The opposite wheel will spin in the opposite direction. Does it feel smooth as it turns, or gritty? If it's gritty, the diff washers are getting grooves in them and it's time. Sometimes you can get away with reusing the balls, I put them through this test:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=124684#post995927

BTW bee nwatching your posts, did you already get your stuff ordered? I am majorly busy lately, working with FlashMX till 3 or 4 AM, then up for work next day . . . .

[slaf]

ross....

This will work even if the crankshatf is not "standard short" ??

With all this power....Is there any danger for the diff ??

[ross]

Originally posted by slaf
ross....

This will work even if the crankshatf is not "standard short" ??

With all this power....Is there any danger for the diff ??

If the crankshaft is shorter than standard short then you may hit a problem, but if its a bit longer then just but the cut off on and file/cut it down to size.

I dont think you will have a problem with the diff has long as its well maintained and set up correctly. Ive seen them go in a maxx and if it can take something that heavy to them type of speeds then just think how much fun it will give you in a GT!

[Nitrogt10]

Originally posted by Floop
Oh, and can I get a larger gas tank for this thing? the stock tank seems to run out pretty quickly.:confused:

You must have you gt really rich because i can get up to 15 mins on one tank
:confused:

[Floop]

yeah, I get 10 - 15 minutes depending on how I drive. Hoping to go longer. Is there any danger in that as far as overheating the engine?

[Henry G]

Originally posted by rocknbil

Which brings me to the next one, resist the urge to take it out to the Bonneville flats, open it up, and let it go for as long as you can.
I was going to take it down to the flats, until you guys told me that it was bad to run in WOT for more than 3 seconds. I woulda ruined my engine without finding this site!
Thanks for all of your help guys, you're awesome!

[Polk]

I still have my resstrictor in, And i think if you have one of them in you can go for WOT for longer, cause it isnt going full power, but im not sure...

[hoytshooter]

Hey guys,
Just my first attempt at posting pictures. Here is my GT. It started out as a RTR, but I have upgraded it completely to Factory Team specs plus a lot of RPM and other hop ups.:D

[hoytshooter]

Here is one with the body on.:D

[stealthpenguin]

Personally, I think you're GT could use more blue. lol. :D

[hoytshooter]

My motto is "Blue is faster" lol:D

[dog8spam]

Whyd you lengthen your stinger? I was just curious.

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Synthesis5
....since i am completely new to this whole rc thing, what should i expect as some of my first priorities in this new truck? ....
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I would water proof the electrics, use alot of WD40, and put longer screws with nuts & locktite wherever you can. Also watch where you set your body clips (I'm still learning that one :p ) and keep your glow-starter charged.

more specificly watch the screws that hold the engine onto the mounts, on some cars they like to come loose and strip a spur gear. Also the rear a-arm mounts will come loose and you can loose a dogbone.


It does require some patience to "get it" and be able to consistently start and run your nitro. Generaly takes about a month.

Parts will break alot at first and you will have all kinds of problems. If you stick it through the reliability will improve dramaticly as you learn more.

[hoytshooter]

Without the extension the stinger does not go all the way through the body for some reason. I don't know if the stinger on my pipe is abnormally short or what, but the extension shouldn't hurt anything.:confused:

[Polk]

My GT is now Out Of Action until i get a new rear suspension mount, which is gonna be AT LEAST a week. *sigh* Zip ties just cant fix this one....

:(

[Floop]

heh. I thought zip ties and duct tape could fix anything. Have you tried the duct tape yet?:p

[Zilla3boy]

Anyone have any thoughts on using a Hitec 625MG for a steering servo? My thought was it looked like a good compromise of torque, speed, and price. Also, if I go from the 1/4 axles to 3/16, will I need to change anything other than bearings to make it fit, or is there something I haven't noticed that won't work? Thanks guys.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
....a new rear suspension mount...... Polk you never answered, are you getting your parts or do you need me to try and get them for you?

Originally posted by hoytshooter
My motto is "Blue is faster" lol

As you can see my wife would agree (this is her driving her GT)

[easysport_flyer]

Ok I might get a GT but all i want is a basher i dont want a traxxacrap or a duracrap so i was thinking maby a associated rc10GT plus OR a HPI SAVAGE i dont know I race oval with my L3O so i am a good driver and would like to spen as little money as possible is that is lol any way i would like a really good car that can jump really well and hill climo and just drive in the street and mass around with so what do you guys think ? what should i get?

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by Zilla3boy
Anyone have any thoughts on using a Hitec 625MG for a steering servo?

I have no complaints about mine. It has the torque to steer the truck and it doesn't seem to need any more speed for the application.

[doesgo]

Originally posted by easysport_flyer
Ok I might get a GT but all i want is a basher i dont want a traxxacrap or a duracrap so i was thinking maby a associated rc10GT plus OR a HPI SAVAGE i dont know I race oval with my L3O so i am a good driver and would like to spen as little money as possible is that is lol any way i would like a really good car that can jump really well and hill climo and just drive in the street and mass around with so what do you guys think ? what should i get?

I've got both a Savage and an RC10GT (and a 1/8 buggy). It'd be very difficult to pick between the GT and Savage, but if I could only get one, I'd get the Savage. The GT is a blast to toss around, and it's very tough, but the Savage is also very tough and it's so much more capable on rough surfaces. .15 engines are generally much quieter than big blocks too, which is nice for running in the neighborhood.

If operating costs are a concern, however, I think a GT will be cheaper to run, since it's pretty well set up out of the box and parts for it are so plentiful and cheap. The Savage needs a few things early on in its life, like upgraded dogbones, better air filter, etc.

But either will be a ton of fun.

Oh yeah, the buggy. I know I might be in the minority on this, but I've found the buggy to be the worst of both worlds. Yes, it's got 4WD which is fun (point it and GO!), but the suspension can't handle the rough stuff like a Savage - it really bounces around and flips over easily. Okay, so the GT can't handle it either, right? Right, but the GT has the advantage of simplicity, low weight, fast with a small engine, etc., and 2WD can be a lot of fun too! More challenging to drive, and fishtails and whipping donuts are fun.

[Floop]

Has anybody tried those rechargable alcaline batteries? I'd like to know how well they work. I've heard the Nicad batteries dont' provide as much power and am wondering if rechargable alcaline's would be better in this reguard.

Cheers
Bruce

[Polk]

Originally posted by rocknbil
Polk you never answered, are you getting your parts or do you need me to try and get them for you?


You, You YOU!!

Tower wants to charge me it a ton to ship, are you getting my PM's??

[easysport_flyer]

Yeah well over all the GT PLUS seems pretty cool so i think i am gonna go with that.... i almost have enough after i sell my rustler i will have 370... thats more then enough for fuel and extras plus the car :D :D :D :D :D

[Zilla3boy]

Took my GT out today for a little fun, just starting to really get the motor broken in well and working good, went for about 5 min. and no brakes. Finally figured out why after tearing the truck all down, the little hex adaptor for the brakes was absolutely toasted. Anybody else ever melted the little brake-hex adaptor? If so, were you able to determine what caused it, and/or what did you do to prevent it from happening again?

Thanks again guys, someday maybe I'll have this thing figured out, huh?:rolleyes:

[stealthpenguin]

Hurray! Be glad that your disc brake is toasted!

Time to upgrade to the incredibly-awesome CRESCENZI RACING DRUM BRAKE

Find out more about it !here (http://www.rc10gthobby.com/dbrake.htm)

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

[easysport_flyer]

So what do you guys think should i get the rc10 GT PLUS?

[dog8spam]

Anyone have any thoughts on using a Hitec 625MG for a steering servo? My thought was it looked like a good compromise of torque, speed, and price. Also, if I go from the 1/4 axles to 3/16, will I need to change anything other than bearings to make it fit, or is there something I haven't noticed that won't work? Thanks guys.

You will have to drill out the rims with a 3/16 bit.



Without the extension the stinger does not go all the way through the body for some reason. I don't know if the stinger on my pipe is abnormally short or what, but the extension shouldn't hurt anything.

It will make a little difference, there are specs for making stingers though I dont think it will make that much of a difference. I would check the pipe stand or make a new one.

[dog8spam]

one last thing, if you run around water alot the chreshenzi wont work too well.

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by Zilla3boy
Anybody else ever melted the little brake-hex adaptor? If so, were you able to determine what caused it, and/or what did you do to prevent it from happening again?


I've worn the plastic ones out but never toasted one. A Factory Team alumunim nut will fix ya right up. There's like 4 alumunim upgrades the GT needs, and that's one of them.

[Floop]

Originally posted by easysport_flyer
So what do you guys think should i get the rc10 GT PLUS? Yes. The GT is a fun truck to drive. i got mine last week and think it's a good truck to start with.

[speedydave]

Originally posted by Jamedup
I've worn the plastic ones out but never toasted one. A Factory Team alumunim nut will fix ya right up. There's like 4 alumunim upgrades the GT needs, and that's one of them.

What are the other 3? I'm assuming brake hex, Trinity tranny brace...what else?

[easysport_flyer]

Yeah i am going to have spare money what should i get to go with it I mean hop up wise AND what kind of fuel/ plugs would you use for bashing???LMK

[Zilla3boy]

easysport, I'm just bashing right now, and I'm using Wildcat Eliminator 20% nitro,18% oil. I'm getting great power, and hopefully with that much oil, better longevity from my engine. Upgrades looks like; aluminum brake hex (figured that one out today :D), trinity tranny brace, cvd's if you're getting the RTR, and personally, I replaced the airfilter that came with my RTR, it just looked cheesy to me. Oh yeah, get a servo for the steering with more torque, you'll thank yourself later.

[RC10's]

I recently emailed associated about the Jaguar radios and the problems with them and how they basically suck.

this is my letter-

hello,
I recently started working at my local hobby shop. One question
we
repeadetly are asked is, "which is the best RTR nitro car?" Now,
as a long
time Team Associated fan my natural response would be the RC10GT
or the
NTC3. However I dont tell people this for one simple reason; the
Ace Jaguar
radio. In 2 months i have seen at least a dozen of these things
fail in one
way or another. This pains me, becuase I own multiple Team
Associated cars
and I absouletly love them, but I feel guilty selling people the
RTRs with
such junky radios in them. The wierd thing is that the RTR
electrics such
as the TC3 and the RC10T3 have the lynx radio by Hi-tec, which
is a decent
radio. My question is why you put a decent radio in the
electrics and
garbage in the nitros? I want to sell people the best, but as
long as the
Jaguar radios are in your RTRs I cant do that.

and there response-

Thanks for writing this to us. We were aware of some problems
during the
xmas holiday that we experienced with the transmitter. Since
that time we
have taken over the quality control and have had great success
with them
since.

[stealthpenguin]

Zilla:

I used to run Wildcat 20%, but now I'm running Blue Thunder 20% (Race Formula, but regular is just as good), and I can say that I have seen considerable temperature drops, as well as performance increase.

They are the same price, so the next time you buy fuel, make the switch to Blue Thunder, you won't turn back!

[stealthpenguin]

BTW guys, here's a pic of my slide-carb linkage w/ a drum brake:

http://benjimo.home.attbi.com/pics/slidecarb_linkage.jpg

And, here's a pic of my HUGE airfilter! (it's the only one that would fit my MT-12's huge 16mm carb)

http://benjimo.home.attbi.com/pics/hugefilter.jpg

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by speedydave
What are the other 3? I'm assuming brake hex, Trinity tranny brace...what else?

Trinity Susp. Mounts-- LSWX63 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXWS63&P=7

Alum Shock Caps------ LXWL86 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXWL86&P=M

Trinity Tranny brace-- LXMA03
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMA03&P=7

Brake Adapter-- LXSG74
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSG74&P=7

[stealthpenguin]

Alum. shock caps?

Since when are those a 'must-buy'?

[ross]

stealthpenguin,

thats a hell of alot of preload on there. :)

Dont you have any problem with the brake linkage fouling agaisnst the spur gear or slipper plate?

[Jamedup]

If you race and/or change your shock oil often then you'll notice a difference. The plastic caps want to cross thread and fumbeling around to get them on increases the chances of loosing shock oil thus getting air in. Smooth shocks is a major piece of the puzzle to a well handeling truck.
Besides the fact that you get a good seal by just tightening them finger tight.... I never need a tool to reoil my shocks. To some it won't matter much but I've been using them for years and I'll never go back to the plastic caps, so in my opinion, they are must or at least a very good upgrade.

[rcaddiction]

Hey guys! Quick question. Do bodies make a difference in racing?
I don't have allot of time, so I'm considering buying one of Atomik's shells for my GT. I've noticed that no one seems to use them in racing. All I see are Pro-Line Crowd Pleazers and GMC LPs. The track that I'm going to race on has a 170 foot back straight, so if Aero is an issue, I'll just go with the status quo.
Thanks!

[easysport_flyer]

Hey guys so far i have batteries for the radio duratrax o'donnel 20% raceing blend the rc10GT PLUS RTR racers choice airfilter oil O.S. R-5 glow plugs [tower told me to get them becuase of were i live] those 4 hop ups that you guys said are a must have and then i have getting a set or 4 blue springs and a set of red springs this guy told me if you put blues in it the car handels 200X'S better and the red ones are for jumping LMK if there is any thing else i need to get to get going thanks!:cool:

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
...You, You YOU!! .......

Okay OKAY OKAY! You made some mention in a post on here about ordering some parts, I didn't want you to pay for them twice, will get right on it captain SIR! :D

[Stix]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
stix, if you are still running the stock clutch try to clean the shoes by scuffing them with some fine sand paper. Also the clutch bell then clean the bell with brake cleaner. The stock bearings are the best I've tried so far, but the MIP clutch is much better than stock. It will allow the engine to idle better without the clutch dragging as much.


Tuff,
the brake i said was the thing lookin glazed, not the clutch shoes, the shoes are fairly new, and i've used your tip before. but it still chewed up and hacked out bearings as usual. i even ran with my old worn out shoes (right after i got the car and burned a couple tanks i replaced em ) and still wouldn't idle without engaging. i've set the needles to factory and gone from there, got good power, but the motor won't let me take the idle down very much without killin itself. and i know these motors load up at idle, and i was adjustin the idle with a blip of the throttle in between to clear the crankcase. :confused:

Stix :cool: :cool:

[dog8spam]

And, here's a pic of my HUGE airfilter!
How many lbs. does that weigh? :D

[stealthpenguin]

Actually, the big airfilter has greatly increased pushing (j/k :D )

Um, as far as rubbing against the linkage, there is none.

Jamedup:
What glow plug do you run in your MT-12?

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
Jamedup:
What glow plug do you run in your MT-12?

Don't laugh but the Mugen likes the long Traxxas hot plugs, but I'll use OS #8 too. The (not so) local hobby shop is getting much better but is still about worthless for plugs.

[stealthpenguin]

Heh, I think I'll stick w/ OS. hehe. :D

[stealthpenguin]

Do they make a pressure nipple for the GT pipe?

[Floop]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
<snip>nipple</snip> hehe... you said nipple.:p

[stealthpenguin]

Originally posted by Floop
hehe... you said nipple.:p

lol... YOU said nipple!

[Floop]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
lol... YOU said nipple! :o

[stealthpenguin]

uh, i think we're off topic...

[GT4eva]

Hi all!

I haven't been here in a long time... not much 'puter time in awhile.

I used to be Big Wig but I guess that account is closed :(

I've been running an MT-.12 in my GT for a year or so and the best plug I've found is a Mcoy MC59 - awesome!

Anyway, I'm looking for a good clay setup for my GT. I race on 2 tracks regularly; 1 is pretty loamy and the other is a semi sand track... great traction at both. I raced the GT once at RC Madness in CT and of course my setup wasn't working well. I did manage a 2nd place finish in the B main but I could've gone a lot faster if my car was dialed.

Could I get a good starting point for running on clay? Shock oils, pistons, springs, tires, clutch setup... etc.

Thanks in advance
Jay

[Zilla3boy]

Well crap. I put on the aluminum brake hex (wife won't let me spend any more money for the drum brake at the moment), took it out for a test/bash run, and started showing off for the neighborhood kids (you can probably see where this is heading). Everything was going great until I hit this big bump in the yard, did a nice little jump executing a perfect half front flip and landed upside down, shattering the rear shock tower and bulkhead. Now I get to wait for parts since my LHS doesn't have any shock towers at the moment.:(

Are the RPM bulkheads a worthy investment, or are they not any better than stock?

[stealthpenguin]

Dave (Crescenzi) told me that the RPM one is a lot better because it lacks sharp edges, which he said makes it structurally stronger.

[Railman]

The RPM bulkhead is pretty much the only rpm product I use on our GTs'. The old stock bulkheads were horrible about breaking. The new ones are much improved due to the much stronger plastic composite, but still not near as strong as the RPM bulkhead. We have broken several (3 or so) stock ones, but never an RPM bulkhead.

Yes it's well worth the extra couple bucks!
Joe

[stealthpenguin]

I have not yet broken my stock bulkhead, even after many really bad spills. But, when you do break stock parts, upgrading to RPM is usually a pretty good choice.

[doesgo]

Originally posted by Railman
The RPM bulkhead is pretty much the only rpm product I use on our GTs'. The old stock bulkheads were horrible about breaking. The new ones are much improved due to the much stronger plastic composite, but still not near as strong as the RPM bulkhead. We have broken several (3 or so) stock ones, but never an RPM bulkhead.

Yes it's well worth the extra couple bucks!
Joe
Why don't you use other RPM products? Are they inferior to something else?

[Railman]

Doesgo,
I used to use the RPM front arms till I finally figure out how much more they flex than the stock ones. Rpm uses pure nylon in their products, & the newer assoc plastics are just more ridgid. I don't bash, so I'm more interested in ridgidity than unbrakability. I have used the RPM ballcups, but they tend to bind up, & are too big for the front steering at the bellcranks. They hit each other when turning & hitting bumps at the same time. For the body mount posts I use aluminum binding post form the hardware store. They never come loose!
It's not that RPM makes bad stuff, it's just not always what works best for me.
Joe

[doesgo]

Great info, Railman. Thanks!

[dog8spam]

The RPM bulkhead is pretty much the only rpm product I use on our GTs'. The old stock bulkheads were horrible about breaking.
I still have the one that origionally came with my GT. How do you break a bulkhead?

[Stix]

break a bulkhead?? easy, land it upside down...HARD! LOL i still have my original also, haven't broken it yet, but probably will some day.

Stix :cool: :cool:

[Railman]

Dogspam,
The area where the camberlink ball stud (rectangular section) simply used to break off. Prior to about two years ago, they used a much weaker plastic on the parts. The newer parts are much stronger. I'm guessing yours is the newer plastic. The old ones on the tub models, just bent back & forth from normal racing until they fatigued & broke off.
Joe

[GT4eva]

I know I'm the new guy here but it seems I'm being kinda ignored ;)

any info on the clay setup? (see my post on last page)

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by GT4eva
I know I'm the new guy here but it seems I'm being kinda ignored ;)

any info on the clay setup? (see my post on last page)

My opinion is..... the stock setup from the manual is pretty good, I don't need to stray from it much. But after my A-main performance last night, I'm probably the last person to give advice. :( I finished 6th so I'm thinking 4 people must have broke. :rolleyes:

[GT4eva]

My opinion is..... the stock setup from the manual is pretty good, I don't need to stray from it much.

OK thanks!

I just recently went back to the stock setup and I'm very happy with it on my regular tracks (not clay). All last season I experimented with RPM shock pistons with great success. My regular track was a very fast layout with large berms and it was extremely rough. I had the GT dialed for those conditions. I ran that same setup on a smooth clay track and it was horrible. This year our track has changed... it's much tighter and the stock GT setup is working awesome. I'll have to stick with it when I go to clay. I'm running 30wt shock oil all around - would you suggest any different for clay?

Also, I've heard of guys running no clutch springs for clay for early engagement to prevent wheel spin - anyone tried this? I've always ran the MIP clutch on setting #2... can you run a MIP without a spring?

thanks
Jay

[GT4eva]

One more thing;

I'm running 1/8" limiters all around and I'm super impressed with the difference in handling - more razor sharp and predictable even when it's rough (very Losi like - sorry guys ;) ). Should I keep these in for clay?

[dog8spam]

I'm guessing yours is the newer plastic.

My car was a blacktub, it jsut has the new chassis now.

[tipper]

anybody want to buy a rc10gt hoped up ready to race right away.

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by GT4eva
I'm running 30wt shock oil all around - would you suggest any different for clay?

Also, I've heard of guys running no clutch springs for clay for early engagement to prevent wheel spin - anyone tried this? I've always ran the MIP clutch on setting #2... can you run a MIP without a spring?

thanks
Jay

My track is a hard kinda smooth clay type track (http://www.familyhobbiesraceway.com/) and I use 35 in the front and 30 in the back (which is opposite of the majority) which transfers the weight to the rear upon throttle for rear traction and I lower the front ride heigth which gives me lightning fast steering response upon braking... no more locking the rear wheels to turn sharp. The only down side to my setup is the chassis slaps the face of the steep angled jumps but in all seriouseness... I think all the (GT and NT) trucks do anyway, so....... :rolleyes:

I'm running a MT.12 with a rear Stinger type exhaust which gives me gobs of low end that I need for that track so I use the #3 setting on the 4in1 clutch. Matter of fact, I use the #3 setting on every track. I also keep my slipper pretty much locked down and use my throttle finger for traction controll. I'd lock the slipper all the way but I like the extra insurance the little slip gives incase I nose down from a jump and need to be hard on the throttle to avoid the dreaded chassis bending instant stop.

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by GT4eva
One more thing;

I'm running 1/8" limiters all around and I'm super impressed with the difference in handling - more razor sharp and predictable even when it's rough (very Losi like - sorry guys ;) ). Should I keep these in for clay?

You just let the cat out of the bag. Since everyone knows now, you are correct in running them. It forces the inside wheel down in tight turns for added traction and well as body roll and the few other things I don't understand.;)
Another trick I do when I'm running shocks without bladders is to put old O-rings on the shock shaft between the shock body and the spring holder thingy. That insures me that the shock piston stays out of the little pocket of air at the top of the shocks.

Oh, I also run a bit of toe out on the front and my diff as loose as I can get it without slipping, for all the steering I can get. I can throw my GT into any turn with very little push. All of that combined with my 2 Futaba s9404 servos make my GT hard to beat. My truck is much better then I'll ever be able to drive it. What a waste, huh?

[Jamedup]

Has anyone noticed the left front of their chassis wearing faster then the right front? I have 3 GTs and all 3 wear like that. I'm not sure if it's because of the turns on the track I frequent, or it's a weight distrobution problem.

Sorry about all my typos and spelling, I didn't proof read my posts.

[tipper]

5 month rc10gt for saleit comes with 2 pairs of tires a new team trinity picco engine xp.15 and a spare ae.15also has 2 fuel bottles, 2 glow ignighters, 2 radios a airtronics and jag the jag haw a broken wire, comes with all the tools, new rear springs, rpm rear and front a-arms. all oils need and glues, lots of spare parts, fuel tubing glow plugs and air filter too. Spare gears and screws, rpm tie rod cups and bell crank, a bottle of gasket sealent lots of shock and servo parts and a brand new mip clutch. engine has been broken in my the hobby shop never used it. all manuals included and comes with a rear home made exhaust just for looks.

[stealthpenguin]

Tipper:

Can you give me more info?

Do you accept trades?


benji_mo@hotmail.com

[tipper]

what do u think it is worth though

[Railman]

Gt4eva, & Jamedup,
Great posts!:cool:
I am finally about to get my Gt ( & my 13 year old son) out on a track next week. It's been almost a year since I've run it, but I have been racing a little electric (MFE truck, & XXX) indoors.

On our GT's we pretty much run the std setup, & don't get very far from it, other than changing springs, front oil wt, & laying the front shocks for more steering when needed. Ocasionally run the rear tower shock in one hole on the tower, for a little more rear side bite, & add a little weight to the front. I have toyed around with internal shock limiter springs, but they are kind of a pain to setup & change. I'm thinking about trying to do this externally, in a very simple way, but i'm not there yet. Kinwald used to run internal shock spring limiters on his XX4 years ago, but the thing about his setup, was it was very hard on the shock shaft. They sold the springs over the counter, but I've never talked to anyone who ran them. Most guys these days tend to run sway bars to get the flat through effect they want. The thing about my springs is that they don't touch the shaft. The whole idea of the limiter springs is that you get the benefit of keeping it flatter in the turns, but you still have all the shock travel. Solid limiters can't do that.

Jamedup,
On the left side wear, mine don't get enough use, but I've been running about 3/4 oz in the front, & favor the rt side because it always seems like the right front wheel lifts before the left side. I'ver never checked it out on a scale, but it seems like the left side is a little heavier than the right side., due to the engine, & pipe being on that side.

Is the MIP #3 setup; leading shoe with no weight?
I have always liked the #2 setup.
Just my $.02
Joe

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by tipper
what do u think it is worth though

I'm not sure but what used to be the norm was 1/2 of the cost when new no matter what upgrades it has. That's why 4 or 5 years ago you saw more upgrades sold seperatly. To give you and idea, I just bought this GT with a fairly fresh Picco .12 (http://ccsnetworking.com/catchinhell/Default.asp) for $40.

[tipper]

mine is way better condition and I put in about 1200.00 into it and I only want about 350.00 - 400.00 out of it. ready to race

[Jamedup]

Oops..... the first 4 pictures are of the exact condition I bought it in. The other few pics were taken after a few added parts I had laying around.

btw.... please disregaurd the condition of my shop. I've had to many projects go thru there since January without cleaning up before starting another.

Tipper,
Sounds like a fair price and you shouldn't have any problem getting "at least" $350
I hope your truck is in better condition, the one I got was a parts truck. I came close to racing it yesterday but I only ran 2 tanks thru it 2 days ago so I wasn't sure if it had any bugs in it or not. Even though it has the white tranny the insides are like new and the diff is smooth as silk.

Railman,
I never understood the trailing or leading edge thing but I "think" #3 is trailing without weights.

[stealthpenguin]

Tipper:

Will you consider my trade? My package is worth at least $350-400.

[stealthpenguin]

Are the EDC (piggy-back reservoir) shocks worth the price?

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=PS1002BK

[GT4eva]

Jamedup and Railman, thanks for the great info!

stealthpenguin, I have a set of those piggybacks and they work great. They absolutley make the shocks smoother. That being said, I haven't run them for a long time because I rebuild my shocks a lot and the piggy's are just one extra thing to do. I use aluminum shock caps though ;)

[GT4eva]

I still have the one that origionally came with my GT. How do you break a bulkhead?

I see guys break them all the time but both of my GT's have their original bulkheads. I do have NIP RMP bulkheads for each car just in case though.

[tipper]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
Tipper:

Will you consider my trade? My package is worth at least $350-400.

no I want at least 350 for it.

[stealthpenguin]

So, you're not going to accept my trade?

If you like, I'll throw in that LRP no-limit ESC for free.

[rocknbil]

Originally postd by dog8spam
.... How do you break a bulkhead?

There's more.

We have a track with exceptionally large jumps, I mean like 6 feet high with a 45º incline, that can send you 15 feet in the air and landing 40 feet form the apex. (Yeah, I know.) It only takes one or two of those to shatter a GT bulkhead completely in half. And the ears to break off quite frequently under the same conditions.

I don't go in for aluminum much but this is one case where the aluminum bulkheads seem so hold up very well.

[bubbastump]

long time no posts
jamedup stop telling all the secrets
ugh i forgot a question but oh well im sure someone will answerit if i dont remember
oh yeah the cresni brake i think is a must think about im getting one soon and i will tell yall bout it
rpm parts r great
oh yeah i remember if you r burnin up clutch bearings get the 3rd bearing
its a 3/16x5/16 unflanged it goes in the center of the other 2 causing less play
thats what i couldnt remember
well come payday i gots to buy more tires and rims

[Jamedup]

LOL@Bubba
Bro, the true secretes are learned from racing experiance. The straight poop is..... ya gotta use your head.

[tipper]

no trade cash only need money for my kawasaki

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by bubbastump
....ugh i forgot a question but oh well im sure someone will answerit if i dont remember.....

The answer is . . . 42.

:D


GOOD GRIEF IT'S ALMOST JUNE AND IT JUST WON'T STOP RAAAAIIINING!!!!!


Ok I feel better, thanks.

[stealthpenguin]

Heh, where do you YOU live?

It's in the mid-80's here in CA. :D

[hpimonster]

Is it true that there is a 100mph RC10GT on this website somewhere?? I heard there is a 2-speed for the GT can anyone tell me what website this is abailable on?? And also do the neweramodels 1/8th scale buggy adapters fit on the rc10gt plus since the axles are a different size??
thanx

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
Heh, where do you YOU live?

I'm sorry stealth. Now I feel better.

LOL Southern OR.


Originally posted by hpimonster
Is it true that there is a 100mph RC10GT on this website somewhere....

Somewhere, in one of these GT threads, a kid came through bragging about how he was going to make a 100MPH GT, and well ,some of us thought he was kidding. . . . and spurred a conversation about it, apparently it has been done. It would be in one of the GT v 5.0 or less threads. Good luck, I searched for it once and it eluded me like the Holy Grail . . . .

[tipper]

dude it was me with the 100mph gt I am selling it now and no buddy thpught I could do it but I did almost got 89mph and wheels blew off. The truck is ready to race with lot of stuff all you need to take care of it. all my rc nitro stuff it in that one box for 350.00 obo

[Synthesis5]

what the hell, my servo on my rc10gt rtr is f-up. when the throttle is released the truck still goes. i tried to contact team associated but the gave me a number to ace hobbies and told me to talk to them about it, so i did. the lady told me that the guy that handles all the servo stuff is currently not with the company anymore. ***?? this is a week old truck , and i do believe i should be able to get a new servo from one of these companies but i don't know what the hell is going on. both are giving me these lame excuses. anyone know/has advice on what i should do??? Fast!

thanks in adavance ;)

[tipper]

ya I know why find every way to get around it. I through my radio away it went compeltly after 1 week. it would turn on but nothing worked had batteries the transmittler and throttles went

buy new better servos and ratio. mx3 is what I have looks excellent.

[RC10's]

I posted my reply from associated a few posts back about my complaints to them about the crappy radios to which they said:

Thanks for writing this to us. We were aware of some problems
during the
xmas holiday that we experienced with the transmitter. Since
that time we
have taken over the quality control and have had great success
with them
since.

I am still skeptical as to the quality of the radio and would recommend everyone by somethign new. considering you can get a decent airtronics or futaba in the 50$ range it isnt a lot of money.

[Motorman007]

i know i seen on here somewhere that someone put the T3 caster block and the Kingpin on there GT to get more steerting.

how will it give you more steering?
what parts do one Need to make this MOD?

thanx

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Synthesis5
what the hell, my servo on my rc10gt rtr is f-up. ...

Did you try adjusting your linkage at all? Maybe it just needs to be adjusted.

[Motorman007]

yes i did. i put it on the hudy stand that i have for 1/10's and everything is right. but i was told that some people was using the T3 Caster and Kingpin.

RC10GT - T3 CASTER BLOCK (http://www.rc10gthobby.com/~mystracing/RC10gt.htm)

[SST'99Pro]

Hello to all RC10GT owners and fans...
Are the older versions of AE RC10GT upgradable to the new ones??? I'm just asking because i have a friend of mine that owns an older version, i dont now what vers is, and he converted it to an electric trusk. He owns almost all of the parts that left from the conversion and he gives me the truck. If i buy new parts ( the ones that left) can i make it a Nitro Truck again???
If you don't understand what i mean sorry. I now my english isn't good. I'm from Portugal and i don't now much about english....:rolleyes:
Thanks anyway:p

[Zilla3boy]

SST, yes you can upgrade the older versions of the GT to the new chassis and such. Associated sells a conversion kit specifically for that, you can get it from Tower or possibly your LHS. If you have most or all of the parts from before the conversion to electric, I don't see any reason you wouldn't be able to convert it back.

[SST'99Pro]

thanks a lot Zilla3boy.

[dog8spam]

We have a track with exceptionally large jumps, I mean like 6 feet high with a 45º incline, that can send you 15 feet in the air and landing 40 feet form the apex. (Yeah, I know.) It only takes one or two of those to shatter a GT bulkhead completely in half. And the ears to break off quite frequently under the same conditions.

My friend and I made a huge ramp that was as tall as me. The first of the two times we jumped it my friends GT hit his neighbors basketball pole in the air and ripped off an A-arm. The best part was I didnt have to pay for the damage:D

dude it was me with the 100mph gt I am selling it now and no buddy thpught I could do it but I did almost got 89mph and wheels blew off. The truck is ready to race with lot of stuff all you need to take care of it. all my rc nitro stuff it in that one box for 350.00 obo

How did you do that? I would try foams. They sell them for the GT at Tower.

yes i did. i put it on the hudy stand that i have for 1/10's and everything is right. but i was told that some people was using the T3 Caster and Kingpin.

Do the T3 arms fit on the GTs carriers, or do you need the T3s carriers. Does anyone know for sure if it really helps handling?

[1tuffRC10]

For quicker steering, change the ackerman. Or you can set the rear wheels back. Either one will give you more steering than you can handle. Another way is to move the link between the servo and bell crank to the inner position on the bell crank.

As for the T3 steering parts on a GT, someone posted using them to make the front the same height as the rear when using the RPM rear bearing carriers. They are taller, between the control arm mount and where the axle goes in, than stock.

[Railman]

I use the T3 spindles with the GT castor blocks. I've used the Rpm version, & also the stock spindle. I just grind the height down with a belt sander a little at a time, eyeballing it from different angles now & then to keep the faces parallel. Then I finish it up by hand with a file, till it fits the caster block. I take all the height off from the same side, so it looks the same distance from the axle hole either way.
I'm convinced it make a difference for several reasons. In order to kill most of the bumpsteer on the std spindle, you have to jack the ball stud way up in the air with two to three washers, depending on which caster blocks you run. When you do that, it weakens the spindle to the point where it flexes way too much, resulting in limp, inconsistent steering in the rough. The longer T3 spindle is much stronger, also gives a mechanical advantage to the whole linkage, resulting in less steering play, & reduced load on the servo, if the linkages are adjusted properly. If you want to speed it back up, just come in on the GT's servo saver hoes. with the servo linkage. Speed isn't really an issue with a coreless though.
If you look at all the modern cars, & trucks out there (XX, XXX, XXT, XXXT, B3, T3) , the steering rods are at an angle, similar to what I ended up with. You can kill the bump steer on the std spindle with washers when going straight, but it will still have a bunch of bump steer when turning. That's the last thing you want when in the rough stuff, or when your turning on a loose track. We have two GT's with the T3 spindles, & several with the stock setup. It's very obvious to me what it does, but in the past I just got tired of trying to convince people of the benefits. I think it gives a more predictable, precise, forgiving feel when done. The action of the steering looks a lot like my MFE truck, or like a T3
That's my opinion for what it's worth.
Joe