Associated RC10GT Forum v6.0

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by geo8498

Do you have any advice on if I can adjust that brake better, or maybe I should get that custom brake kit? (can't rememerb the name)

The Ofna linkage is on the car now so the slide carb will work. Give that a shot and see if the brakes are any better. I know for a fact it has a longer arm (more travel).

Speed, you could give the heavyduty ends a shot. I personally do not have a problem with the AE ones, but many people like to upgrade those. If the larger ends causing binding in one place, just keep the stock ends there. For the steering, I personally think its pretty good. Granted ball bearing steering with a built in servo-saver would have been nicer (hopefully the next update to the GT has this), but the stocker is more than enough. If you want, you can upgrade to a MIP steering system, but you'll need a servo saver for the servo which might lead to more play in the whole set-up.

[duratraxman]

yo wasup.
alright i got the rc10gt rtr every things stock. i need to know the gearing to run proline masher tires (the ones that fit on the 2.2 stadium truck rims.)i still have the .15 engine. what do i need to buy?a new clutch bell?new spur gear?both?what sizes? thanx so much.

[stealthpenguin]

I am going to buy pretty soon (like in 1-2 weeks) a RC10GT FT that I found in my local area. It is practically new, and it has a .12 CV-R in it with less than a gallon through it. The guy said that he installed a custom 'drum-brake'. I'm not totally sure what this is, but he said it's a lot better.

What do you guys think?

[dog8spam]

I need help, I've broken in three engines but this one just siezed up. Its an OS CV .12. I cant even turn it over with the glow plug off. It had fuel:confused:

[Railman]

Dogspam,
You might want to take a look at your glow plug. If it burned up the wire may have come loose & jambed the piston. I would pull the back plate, & head to look for foreign material. Was it running at speed when it locked up, or did it lock up when it was sitting?
Joe

[dog8spam]

The glow plug was had the wire in it, I only got it to turn over 10 to 20 times so it was sitting.

[bubbastump]

http://hometown.aol.com/rattrapmax6/myhomepage/howto.html

dogspam how old is engine?
did you break it in ?
are you running to lean?

[tipper]

I've broken in three engines but this one just siezed up.

did it have lots of oil content because that had happened to me and I only was running 5% oil with 25% gas

:D

[RC10's]

First of all im pretty sure your stock gearing is 15/66. Which I think is a perfect middle of the road gearing. However the Masher is a large tire. I would put on the mashers and if you feel there is not enough low end or it accelerates sluggishly then try going to a 14/66. Personally though i would just leave it because you probably wont notice the difference. Good luck

[RC10's]

My motto - if it aint broken dont fix it. I like to leave things stock until there is a good reason to replace it. The RPM ends are good and when my stock ones wear out i replace them with RPMs. As for the steering, i find it to be more then sufficient and can not complain about it at all. Of course there is always a better setup then stock but stock works just fine. I like to drive my truck and not worry about having or doing 6000 hop-ups to hardly make a difference.

[sosidge]

Dogspam - it could have been a major failure somewhere in the crank/piston/liner, and bits of material have jammed the whole thing up. Happened to my old AE.15 - the con-rod failed, and bits of the piston skirt got jammed between the piston and liner - in my case, the liner was so distorted it wouldn't come out of the block. New engine time...

[1tuffRC10]

geo, I run the steel idler with the titanium drive and stock diff gear. It works great so far. Over a gallon of fuel and the diff still feels fine. BTW I am using diff savers also. As for the brakes I have a drum type system and have run about five gallons with it, maybe more, its been on for a while and still locks up the wheels.

fatherspeed, I am running Lunsford turnbuckles with Traxxas bolt on ends and a MIP ball bearing steering. No problems in over a year, at least 12 gallons of fuel. Have replaced servo saver three times! Bad driver, hard walls! BTW If you are using the stock camber rods on the front you may need to cut them a little. If you set the camber to 0 or less the rod will bottom out in the stock cups and bind on the ballstuds. Usually two or three threads on each end will do. Factory Goof up!

I haven't gotten any mail from RC Zone lately. What's up?

[dog8spam]

I had 10% Blue Thunder. I think it just didn't draw fuel fast enough. The engine was old with a new piston/sleeve. I took it apart, there was two little soft green things on the piston and the sleeve was scored up, though not from the green things, there was too many. Hopfully it will still pull through, I wont be able to do anything for awhile because it got cold again.

Whats a good cheap compression gauge?

[eman88]

would 225 for this truck be a good deal?
it has the magnum junior radio

http://cgi.ebay .com/ws/eBay ISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3118899779&category=19168

you guys know the deal with the spaces, just take them out after the word EBAY

[illbreakit]

GEO, I was havind an idler stripping problem. I would strip one every two wks. I got the Robinson Hardened one and haven't had a problem yet:D

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by bubbastump
i found that i am melting stock shoes.....what am i doing wrong????
Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
....If you are melting them down then maybe you need a better clutch.

FIRST - Bubba, look to the clutch nut shaft. Put a new one on and replace the bearings and I will bet that will stop. There are a few posts in this thread about that, and the play in the bearing-to-shaft surface generated the friction sufficient to blow bearings and melt clutch shoes; the other reason is too high of an idle or brakes on at forward.

1TUFFRC - OK you guys, I have watched thread after thread rave about the MIP 4-in-1, and I've been stock all this time, my wife's had the 4-in-1, and I have three 4-in-1's sitting in my box. So last weekend I thought I'd give it a shot, I put a brand new MIP clutch on with a new MIP light flywheel.

Why don't I like this clutch?

I'm trying to figure it out myself, but more than anything is seems like it needs a lot more RPM to get the thing moving, and it really does seem to slip a lot more. I had to nail my slipper down almost all the way to get some dead-stop bite at all. Maybe I'm used to getting more bite from a dead stop, but it seems like the throttle trigger is very soft now, whereas before if I wasn't careful even with some slipper action it would burn off, but I am used to that - when I get it lined up I could nail it hard and it would bite in and GO. Now it takes twice as long to get it up to speed. Thinking I'm an idiot (which is ofttimes) I pulled the bell and put the counterweights in, which produced very little change.

I know I'm not "that great" of a driver, it can't be that I can just handle the groove of a quick-engaging clutch. So what have you got that that would make me love the MIP clutch? :D

[stealthpenguin]

1) What is a 'stealth' transmission

2) Would it be worth it to invest in steel spur gears?

[CJ3willyMX]

Well i ordered my RC10GT FT today. also ordered a CV-r. The engine will be in friday but the truck ownt be in until mid to late march :mad: ohh well weather sucks anyways.

[tipper]

to bad the weather is so crappy there I went swiming yesterday that is how hot it is here. My gt is digging up the dust to. well good luck with your rc u all. :D

[1tuffRC10]

stealthpenguin, The stealth tranny is the one that the new GT's, flat chassis, use. I'm not sure about the tub chassis trannies but they should be the same. Steel spur gears, no. They are the easiest gear to replace if you do get things a little too tight.

illbreakit, the instructions tell you that it will wear out the top shaft quicker. Why even take the chance?

rockinbill, I'm not paid anything to sell their stuff so if you don't like it , don't use it. It's just driver preference anyhow. When I run a new MIP clutch it does take a few runs or more to get it to kick in a little quicker. The main reason I like it is that it helps the truck to idle. If you want it to engage a little quicker, see that it moves on the pins freely. They are very snug at first but they loosen up quick especially if you blow out a bearing. Sometimes that will chew one up beyond use. BTW I run NO drag brake. Truck will idle and roll backwards at same time.

[Jamedup]

The stealth tranny as we know it has been around since, as far as I know, since the GT was introduced or shortly there after.

rocknbil,
Did you try the 4in1 on the #3 setting? That's the setting I use and mine bites pretty hard and fast. It'll take some 15 race minutes to break-in and seat the clutch shoes. Give it time, I think you'll like the clutch.

[RC10's]

The "stealth" transmission was introdcued in 1987(i think?) in the RC10. Stealth doesnt mean anythign to my knoweldge it just sounds cool. The tranny has undergone several changes since the original but is basically still the same, which is nice when you have several AE cars, you can swap things back and forth. Metal gears are good because you wont strip them out, but i dont like the idea of metal and metal meshing, thats just me, so its a personal preference, if your stripping out plastic ones left and right you might want to try it.

[bubbastump]

is there anywhere that i can buy some talent or should i just give up?
ran car today finished 7 gallons sofar i guess i need to rebuild motor just gotta get gaskets first. now for the question should i use wd40 or denatured acholol?

[stealthpenguin]

both, use the denatured before you disassemble it, to get it all clean. then after you have cleaned everything, and are putting it back together, then you use WD40.

[bubbastump]

thanx now is there anywhere i can buy some tallent

[YZ167]

Any of you guys with GT's have a monster truck or 1/8 scale buggy? I had the original T maxx and I loved my GT a lot more. I think the fact that I bulit it helped too. I'm looking foward to buying a new kit this summer with my tax return money =) I love putting these R/C kits together. Anybody else planning on purchasing a new vechile as well soon? I'm thinking that Mugen X5 would be a nice one to get a hold of when it comes out (anybody looking at the XR works,since you can get them around 400 now, save 200 compared to the X5 dont ya think)or maybe even the BFT or MGT whatever it's. Those 1/8 scale buggys look gnarly though, almost bullet proof in videos. What you guys think or plann on doing?...just putting more money in the GT, or looking for a new kit as well...

[stealthpenguin]

go to www.talent-for-n00bs.com

:D

[Jamedup]

Stealth Tranny 2.60.1 in 1995



Time for some links? lol

http://www.rc10.com/basicshub/timeline/1980/RC10insidestory.htm

http://rc10.com/basicshub/timeline/timeline-complete.htm

http://www.rc10.com/basicshub/timeline/1980/rc10s_sweep.htm

Ok, I'm linked out..... Go to http://www.rc10.com and follow some of there links about their history. There's lots of pages of their history there, you have to look hard for them.

btw.... the 1st ROAR National event they are talking about is where I race at in Vineland, NJ. (http://www.familyhobbiesraceway.com/)

[stealthpenguin]

yz, I actually had that exact same idea.

I am going to purchase a RC10GT from a guy I found locally in the next couple weeks. THen, during hte summer, when I'll be able to earn some money, I'm going to buy a Kyosho MP 7.5 (which is the best 1/8 buggy around).

1/8 buggies are so sweet, so I can't wait to save up enough to get one! = D

[1tuffRC10]

bubbastump, this may sound a little crazy but when rebuilding or just cleaning up a engine, I use a few drops of air filter oil on the bearings and the rod. It is thicker than WD so it won't run away as soon as you start it up.

[geo8498]

I have both the RC10GT Plus and the Hot Bodies Lightning 1/8 buggy. I like them both. Depends on the driving mood. Good to know I have one ready to drive if I'm wrenching on the other.

The Lightning is alot like the Kyosho 7.5, good to know for replacement and upgrade parts. I picked mine up for $350. There's a Pro version now with thicker 4mm shock towers, et al.

[rocknbil]

Jamedup I forgot all about those LOL . . . I always thought it was a coincidence that the Steath tranny came out about the time the buzzwords "Stealth Technology" was at it's height, and they named it that because of the smoothness of it and it was so quiet . . . LOL . . .

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
...2) Would it be worth it to invest in steel spur gears?

My personal opinion is that if something "goes wrong" (like motor bolts work lose or chassis torsion on a hard jump) that puts undue force on the spur, the plastic spur strips out. With a steel sput that force has nowhere to go, I've heard of people bending or breaking topshafts, damaged pinion bells . . . . etc . . .

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
.....When I run a new MIP clutch it does take a few runs or more to get it to kick in a little quicker. .....

Well we'll let it go for a few tanks and see, I just don't see a real difference yet except it seems to slip a lot more . . .

[eman88]

would 220 for this truck be a good deal?
it has the magnum junior radio
factory team truck
a few sets of tires
the chassis has some scratches, but nothing too big.
http://cgi.ebay .com/ws/eBay ISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3118899779&category=19168

you guys know the deal with the spaces, just take out the two spaces that are in the bolded areas


please reply about this. I pretty much need to decide by tonight!

[trxstr1961]

well, got it to run, but have a prob... :eek: it runs but when i barley giv it throttle, it acts as if it was wide open when its at 1/8th throttle. and when i give it breaks it dies... :(




HHHEELLPPP!!!

[eman88]

That is definately a carb. adjustment problem.
take off your airfilter, and hit the gas. Does the carb open all the way when your have only gone half throttle on the transmitter?


and your idle stop also has to be adjusted. now hit the brakes. Does the carb totally close? This cuts off the air to the engine and will turn it off. You have to adjust the idle stop until the carb stays open when you hit the brakes. From idle to brakes the carb position shouldnt change.

Your high speed needle also might be lean, i'm not sure about that though because I havent seen it run, or heard it or anything.
hope that helps you somewhat

[dog8spam]

sounds lean, do you have experince tuning?

Anyway, heres some pics of my truck.
A:\Mvc-897f.jpg
A:\Mvc-898f.jpg

If anyone needs help tearing up a body, I'm your man.:D

The bumper on front, do yall think theres a market for it? If so I will look for some stock. When I made it it was shiny, the one on there is pretty old.

[dog8spam]

Why didn't the pics work?:confused:

[atm92484_3]

The [img] tags only works only to link pics. Its kind of like the <href=> tag in HTML. To get pics from a local disk (floppy, hard-drive, cd, etc), you'll need to use the Attach File feature (look right below the text box you type your response in and you'll see it along with a button that says "browse").

[Railman]

Rockinbill,
About the MIP 4in1...I bet you put the same clutch bell from the stock shoes over the MIP shoes. The problem is the stock shoes are made out of teflon, & leave a slick film on the interior of the bell. What I remember doing was to clean it with acetone, & then roughen it up with some #100 or so sand paper. Then use the #2 setting (trailing with weights). That's pretty much the only way guys around here run them. I have actually almost flipped my truck over in the middle of turns from it hooking up so well when nailing the throttle (MT12 slide). The only other time they tend to slip is when fuel gets in them. In that case it takes a few minutes of hard running to burn the oil off, & then it's good again.
Personally, I would never go back to the stock setup again.
Joe

[trxstr1961]

gonna try the setup i saw on the os website....can fuel go bad if its been in a capped container over the winter :confused:dog8spam, not very much, i did get a new os running descent, but since this one is used....

[Wallis Racing]

For you guys wondering about the diff and spur gears, i, and a few others here, have full RRP gears. i have the RRP alloy main diff gear, hardend steel idler gear, ti top shaft, steel spur and hardened steel clutchbell.

fo me, the main reason i go the diff gears was simply cause i like powerful engines. with the standard gears, i striped an idler in 1 month of having my GT, so i decided to spend $50 and get the 3 RRP diff gears. and now after over 6 months of GTing(with a RB X12) there is not a mark on any of the gears. i got the RRP spur and CB set just because it was at my LHS. i did have a prob with rocks and stuff getting at the spur, and it was looking pretty sad, so i got the metal gears. 1 time, my engien did move, like rocknbil said, but it is nothing that the steel spur and HD steel CB cant handle. it spat sparks out for a second till i realised what was wrong. then i checked the gers and there was a little mark on each tooth on the spur, nothing serious, and this was about 4 months ago, and im still using that spur. my friend also had a run-away, and it fliped over reving WOT, and when he went to step on the flywheel, the chassis flexed and the metal gears spat sparks everywhere, but his gears still look brand new!

so i say, if you are a serious basher, grab the RRP spur and CB set. if you have a serious engine, spend 50 for the diff gears and never worry again, or, if you just want piece of mind, get the whole lot. but for you people who are running OS's and similar, who just drive(no Hardcore stuff) there is no need for the RRP stuff.
JMO

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[offroadcrazy01]

1/8 buggy"s look fun you are right but they cost alot no matter what name brand you get I got a 7.5 inferno off e- bay there is a alot of up grades to get it ready to race.good luck bro my pocket book is hurting I hope it wil pay off soon

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Railman
...I bet you put the same clutch bell from the stock shoes over the MIP shoes......
I AM BUSTED!!!

I will try it. :D

Originally posted by eman88
...would 220 for this truck be a good deal?...

OK two areas that would make me "close the window" on this auction. Observations about the item:

Both bodies are stock AE bodies. This indicates this person is not really into tweaking the RC at all, which opens the door for poor maintenance. Anyone who is into their ride in the least at least buys a couple cans of Pactra spray and a blank body, it's cheaper than buying a pre-painted AE (isn't it?)

Secondlyabsolutely no close ups except for the bags and wheels. What aren't they showing you?

Third, supporting claim one, look at the extras: tires and a few things he probably breaks with frequency. So if all he did was put cool tire on it and fix what's broken there's a good chance a lot of stuff got thrashed, and very likely over-lean and no ARO through the engine life.

Fourth, they're opening at $150, which lends belief to #3 below.

Second area, about the seller:
I didn't even bother to look into the feedback, people sell a lot of crappy stuff on eBay and still get good feedback. As soon as I see "No PayPal" it means one of three things to me:

1. Underage seller or seller without a credit card account, least common.

2. Overtly paranoid seller, will not add CC info to payPal, a little more common. My sis is one of these people and they are the same kind that will go off on you at the least bit of suspicion.

3. The most common, and my personal eBay peeve: Cheap tightwad who is too concerned about the few bucks payPal skims off their sale to run their business. Anyone who refuses to support payPal because of the minimal amount they take, or has the nerve to tell you "sure I'll take payPal if you pay the $2.50 that they charge" (which technically, eBay says you CANNOT do,) is the same kind of person that will nickel and dime you to death and probably overcharge you wherever they can.

All of this together, especially what they're not showing you and the "no payPal" policy, in my opinion add up to dude, take your GT and put it back on the shelf.

If you insist on going for it I would top out at $125, but you can'tdo that as it's opening at $150. There are better eBay deals out there.

[eman88]

He emailed me more pics when i asked. Let me upload and post them

this is what he said when i asked if he took paypal
Unfortunately, no. I've had a couple bad experiences with them and choose not to use them, sorry.

All i really want, is a factory team, (or a team if it is really nice) with a pullstart engine that runs well, and some good tires. I guess onroad tires can be bought cheaper off ebay.

I think I will let this one pass.
http://users.domaindlx.com/eman88/rc10gt/Pict0052.JPG
http://users.domaindlx.com/eman88/rc10gt/Pict0053.JPG
http://users.domaindlx.com/eman88/rc10gt/Pict0054.JPG

about what you said
1. Underage seller or seller without a credit card account, least common.
dont you need a CC to sign up to be a seller on ebay?
And dont you need to enter things like your bank account number? I set up an account over a year ago with my dad, and I dont really remember what info they wanted.


Thanks for your opinion!

EDIT

Im also looking at this truck
http://cgi.ebay .com/ws/eBay ISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3118703458
its a team kit with .12 cv-rx. It looks almost brand new, chassis is still shiny


and this truck. I think this one will end well over 300 though
http://cgi.ebay .com/ws/eBay ISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3118985343&category=19168

it is a factory team, non pull, but it has a starter box.
it has an xr3i(big plus, i want an xr3 or nice fm radio)
.12 cv-r
looks like it has been maintained well. I will ask this guy for a picture of the chassis.

[stealthpenguin]

What are the major dis-advantages of the Factory Team? I want to know what spare parts I should buy.

[BashCat]

I bought my RTR in great condition at the LHS for $200.00 and I am really happy. I'm sure you can find a better deal as well. Remember, A brand new kit sells for as low as $269.00 in RC Car Action ads. I would avoid something that you can't put your hands on and inspect. IMO

[Philly's Finest]

Hey guys I need a little help with a price on a project truck.

How much do you think a gt would go for with the following:

.21 engine
alum rear bulk
alum gearbox
alum tranny brace
alum shock tower f&r
alum uprights
ti turnbuckles
shinny cvd's
losi shocks
alum rear skid
alum servo mounts
reciever box
125 tank
possibly alum arms f&r

I might consider selling this truck for another project and I wanted to get a feel on the price.

[rocknbil]

dont you need a CC to sign up to be a seller on ebay?

No, I don't think so, but you do to do any kind of online payment methods offered by eBay. It's more of added conveniences.

....All i really want, is a factory team, ...

Well if you look at these new pics, look at the square bumper at the front. You can only put those on an RTR chassis.

Both of those other trucks look better to me . . .

[trxstr1961]

IM getting confused now need help BAD!! in tunning the cvx... they say that i should turn the MCV 2.5 turns ... now is that from closed, open or what?? also, the other settings are ok, but im wondering if fuel can go bad in less then a year... :confused:

[sosidge]

Needle settings are measured from closed.

[1tuffRC10]

Time isn't fuel's only enemy. Moisture will hurt fuel quicker. A jug of fuel that as been warm then cold can sweat and cause the fuel to be weak. If you are at the bottom of a gallon or quart for that matter, it is best to use that for cleaning. With fuel, when in doubt, replace.

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
What are the major dis-advantages of the Factory Team? I want to know what spare parts I should buy.

The only thing I don't care for on the FT GTs are the aluminum screw kits. I use steel screws in the high pressure areas. My old Team Tub GT with the FT chassis upgrade is just as fast and handles just as good as my new FT GT.

The advantage of the FT GT is like building computers. You build your own with quality hardware, then know what you have. :)

Spare parts? hmmmm, good one.
Glow plugs
Clutch bell bushings (or bearings)
Ofna throttle linkage
Throttle return spring.
ball cups
case of fuel
few sets of tires.

That should keep you going for a few months. hehe

[BTE214]

how do you put a short shaft on the gt i just bought an os .12 cvx (s) and was wondering how to put it in?

[dog8spam]

I still cant get the pics to work. Now they are too big.
:confused:
The OS cv should drop right in unless you have an RTR. Search for 7603 on Tower, it should be around five dollars.
Old fuel works for thrashing, but I dont race with it.

The only thing I don't care for on the FT GTs are the aluminum screw kits. I use steel screws in the high pressure areas. My old Team Tub GT with the FT chassis upgrade is just as fast and handles just as good as my new FT GT.

I like flat-heads for the chassis, you can get all kinds of materials.

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by dog8spam
<snip>
I like flat-heads for the chassis, you can get all kinds of materials.

LOL same here, as my hex drivers become a little loose on a screw, I'll take my Dremel and cut a slot in it. Pretty soon all I'll need is a flat driver than having 8 different hex drivers.

[RC10's]

You need an engine with a short crankshaft, all the rest of the necessary parts are in the trucks kit, just make sure your engine has a short shaft.

[Philly's Finest]

So nobody can give me a ballpark price on a .21 gt with some nice aluminum fixens?

[atm92484_3]

You'll probably be somewhere in the $400 ballpark by the time you get a really weak .21 engine, a .21 kit, and some steel gears.

[Polk]

Hey

Im getting some 'bronzing' on the clutch bell ( i think its the clutch bell) is this normal?

You can see the part i mean in the pic (bad pic i know, but you get the picture! (haha))

[ross]

Yep thats happening on mine too, I dont think its anything to worry about.

[RC10's]

Is that really necessary in a truck as small and light and undertractioned as a GT? I would think a super high power .15 would be plenty, but thats up to you. Not to mention a .21 is expensive. what i want a .21 in is a 1/8 4x4 buggy.:)

[Draxx]

Philly, it is your money to spend of coarse, but in my opinion, for the money you could buy a buggy and get better performance, speed,durability and it will actually handle well(I have had a buggy, trust me). Once you convert an rc10 to .21 power, and throw a bunch of alloy goodies on it, you will have spent big bucks for a vehicle that might
fly in a straight line, not handle worth a damn
and all the aluminum will bend badly if you wreck.
I am with RC10 on this, buy a hot .12 or .15 and you will have a really fast, barley manageable truck. This is my opinion only, I could be wrong.;)

[1tuffRC10]

I'm not sure but that sounds like a clutch slipping a little too much. The change in color is a sign of heat and that's not good. There is a trick to take the color change out but it will only come back if you don't fix the clutch. Which clutch bell are you using, stock?

[Polk]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
I'm not sure but that sounds like a clutch slipping a little too much. The change in color is a sign of heat and that's not good. There is a trick to take the color change out but it will only come back if you don't fix the clutch. Which clutch bell are you using, stock?

Im on my second tank of break in!!!
What the hell?!

[eman88]

that is totally normal. It isnt anything to worry about

[Henry G]

Hi guys, I'm new to the forums. Well, I've been driving my electric Kyosho Pureten Alpha Rally for abouta year now, and decided it was time to go nitro. I did some research, and decided on the RC10GT plus. So, here's my question: can I get a RC10GT plus in a kit form? I want to build it myself so when I crash it I know how to fix it.

[Polk]

What is the stock plug that comes with the RTR plus GT? Ive done the plug that came with it so what is a suitable replacement?
If i used a plug that i found in my drawer, significantly change anything?
Thanks

[eman88]

the rtr plus only comes prebuilt.




polk-if you use a random plug, it could give you bad performance. It could possibly hurt the engine. Ask to see what plugs people are running.
if you still want to run the plug, richen the engine up 1/2 turn, then retune from there, so you make sure you arent running lean.

[1tuffRC10]

Polk, I am pretty sure its a MC59 made by McCoy. It is a little longer than a OS 8. That is if you still have the stock engine. The OS 8 will work but not as well. OS based engines use OS plugs, Picco based engine use McCoy. About that clutch, I guess all of my clutch bells are old. They have already turned a different color but, when my clutch starts slipping too much or I have a runaway, it changes color then. Try sanding the shoes a little and clean out the clutch bell with some automotive brake cleaner. Sand the contact area of the clutch bell also. That discoloration is caused by heat which is no good for your clutch or bearings. Which clutch bell and clutch are you using (again)? Is it slipping?

Henry G, even if you brake something the GT is much easier to repair than a lot of other trucks. Watch out for the preassembled trucks. Have heard of missing tire foams, slipper pads, bushings where bearings should have been. . . AE made it all good though!

[CJ3willyMX]

well my GT should be in wednesday. Any tips or things i should watch out for while putting it together? any help is appreciated. thanks

[Polk]

Well, i just banged another plug in there and it seems to work nice, so ill just keep using these ones. They are SH Super Glow-Plug. #3 Says #3 is for "Med, for medium or big engines and/or medium nitro fuel.

I am running the stock clutch ( i guess) i just finished break in.
Also:
When i leave it idling for about 10 secondsit doesnt stall or anything but as soon as i clamp the throttle, it stalls?!

The manual said richen the bottom and lean the top end, i have and now have a very pretty and sexy trail of smoke, but it still stalls, and after a tank or 2 of solid running as soon as i put a drop of water on the head it bubbles away immediatly, but i have smoke, and i dont have the body on, so ***?

But dam, even with the carb restrictor, wow, this thing hauls, and can take punishment, but i seem to have lost a orange washer thing from one of my dogbones....

Also i dont know if this is things getting stuck in the drive train then getting cut up, or something else, but sometimes usally when im cornering or going fast, i hear a clicking sort of grating sound for a few seconds, is this things getting munched up, my spur slipping, the dogbone with no washer thing coming out slapping about a bit then going back in, or something else?

Thanks!!!!!!!!

[bubbastump]

richen up low end a bit more
i think the ticking is the servo for stearing try to turn wheels with a bit of oposing force and see if it ticks still




u should have oil and fuel coming from exhaust but not to much
hope it helps a bit

[1tuffRC10]

polk, check the end of the outdrive and axel on the side with the missing "thingy". You may find that the dogbone is trying to jump out. After they sit at idle for a few seconds, they should load up a little. That's why they hold up the rear just before the start of a race.

[bubbastump]

yeah that to

[1tuffRC10]

Polk, with those new clutch bearings, you probably need to take the clutch bell off and clean it out. Those new bearings have a grease in them that ain't too good. It will sling out pretty quick if you turn a lot of rpm's. Some people soak new bearings to remove the grease and put a synthetic motor oil in them. There is a little trick to that too. I set the bearings on the end of something pointed, heat them up with a heat gun or small torch, drop in the oil, then spin them with a air blower at good speed to sling out the excess. Put the clutch bell on them to spin them.

bubbastump LOL:)

[BTE214]

what can i do if the dogbone pops out the outdrives all the time? I put some cloth into the axle where the dogbone sits but it pops off still and limits suspension travel, by the way it's the rtr version if that means anything

Thanks for the help!

[1tuffRC10]

RCracer214, check that the spring and the spacer is still in there. Also check for slop in the screws go through the chassis into the rear control arm mounts. If they are loose, it will allow the arm to swing forward and back. If everything is there and tight then be sure that the travel isn't too much in the rear suspension. If you hold the wheel all the way down, the dogbone end should not be out of the outdrive. Also check for too much play in the rear wheel bearings or bushings.

[BTE214]

thanks 1tuffrc10 i realized i don't have and springs or spacers to hold in the dogbones

[blur69]

my orange washers kept wanting to slip out the side of the axel so I cut some new ones out of fuel line and they work great. I used this on both ends of the dogbone to center the dogbone correctly (since I didn't have springs anymore) and haven't had a problem since

[YZ167]

Wow, I got my new OFNA starter box today, the one that cost 70 dollars at towerhobbies with the 12 volt and it works with 1/10 and 1/8 on and off road. This starter box is awsome and any one that is looking to get a starter or box or needs one, get this one is rocks and turns over the engine with no problem!
I cleaned out my os .15 that is over a year old that has only a 1/2 a gallon through it. Man it flew, I had to reglue the tires a few times because the raw power was throwing them off! Man it's so much fun to be driving the GT again, I got to get down to the track soon. Did I mention that my Hitec 925 rocks for steering up front ! I've never seen the wheels turn so fast from right to left.
I use to have a 605 or 625, well it is like night and day difference!
Any how I saw some posting going on before about how you need to cut off 1/8 an inch on the flywheel to get the Gt to go into neutal? Any body want to enlighten me so I dont have the brake draging? Thanks a lot and make sure you have those tires glues on good that was the only problem my GT had today. (Besides the fact I bought the new flip foward gas tank and had the fuel tube in backwards!!! LoL)

[stealthpenguin]

Hey, is the starter box you got the pink one? If so, I am going to be getting one of those pretty soon. I plan on using it for my GT and a 1/8th scale buggy.

[Polk]

Hey guys my RTR GT came with these few xtras, any idea what they are for? Thanks

[YZ167]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCUC2&P=7

it's blue =)

[Polk]

Hey guys

Heres the deal, i seem to have lost oe of the 'washer' things form my rear dogbones, you can see the bit i mean circled red in the pics:

The side with the washer:

[Polk]

The side without the washer:
Will this effect me in anyway, can i replace it, with what?
Thanks

[Polk]

Oh, i just read blur69's post, replace the washers with fuel tubing, great idea, ill try it now, but still this clicking sound annyos me, its not a quiet clicking of a servo but rather loud, sounds like osmething is getting munched up in the drive train, or the psur is slipping, but the spur and pinion gear are both in perfect condition...any ideas?

[Draxx]

I got the stainless steel Ofna starter box with
the 750 motor. It runs on two sport packs or a 12v. It most certainly converted me to never pull starting an engine again. The only way to go!!!!

[Draxx]

I meant to include the link..it works great.(It is the top one).

http://www.nitrohouse.com/starter_boxes1.htm

[1tuffRC10]

polk, I'll bet that when you get the dogbones spaced the clicking will go away!

[stealthpenguin]

Which part on the Team Factory is most susceptible to breaking?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
...any idea what they are for? Thanks

The white plastic things are shock pistons with different size holes. These are not spares, they are alternates, larger holes will allow the shocks to react faster with the same weight of oil.

The black clips are shock ride height spacers, they clip above the springs to change your ride height, and are in different thicknesses to fine tune the ride height. Optimum is to adjust so the rear axles (dogbones, CVD's) are perfectly level, and there is a straight line across the chassis and a-arms up front.


The black cylinder with the angled tip is for rebuilding your shocks, you use it to push out the snap-clip inside.

The wrench is in case you don't have a toolbox. :D


The clear plastic washers are to keep the body clips from scratching your body, you put them on the posts after putting on the body, then the clips.

All of the above will become apparent if you ever rebuild your shocks or your GT, it's in the manual. :D

[trxstr1961]

im having trouble, can wd40, when left on bearrings, turn to goo?? if so, what will take that s$it off :confused:

[Gabrill]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
polk, I'll bet that when you get the dogbones spaced the clicking will go away! You need to make sure that you have the correct rear arms. My Team Built model came with two left arms, and I had dogbone clicking. The rear arms' crossbracing should be recessed on top and flat across on bottom. If this is the problem you can hollow out a small hole for the driveshaft to lay down in with a dremel or similar tool without losing very much strength.

[stealthpenguin]

I hear that the GT pushes a lot in the front. What can I do to counter this?

[stealthpenguin]

I hear that the GT pushes a lot in the front. What can I do to counter this?

[Philly's Finest]

Originally posted by Draxx
Philly, it is your money to spend of coarse, but in my opinion, for the money you could buy a buggy and get better performance, speed,durability and it will actually handle well(I have had a buggy, trust me). Once you convert an rc10 to .21 power, and throw a bunch of alloy goodies on it, you will have spent big bucks for a vehicle that might
fly in a straight line, not handle worth a damn
and all the aluminum will bend badly if you wreck.
I am with RC10 on this, buy a hot .12 or .15 and you will have a really fast, barley manageable truck. This is my opinion only, I could be wrong.;)

Some of you might have missed my earlier post but I was asking how much a very hopped up gt with a .21 might go for like on ebay or something.

As far as money goes this would cost me no more than 150 bucks. I got a gt a while back for free. I have a few .21's sitting around collectiong dust. This wouldn't be a race truck just a project. Basically would just need to sure up the tranny a bit. I think it would be fun.:D

[DLF]

I need one of you with later FT GT's to look in your manuals for me. I have an older Team tub GT that has long been converted to the newer flat chassis version. However, in my manual, the rear shocks use one 1/8" and one 1/32" limiter in each shock (P/N 6466). However, these are not in the shocks now and I'm trying to find if I may have taken them out for some reason. Are these limiters called out in the later manual? What about the front shocks? Thanks.

[1tuffRC10]

DLF, I think the limiters are for driver preference. They don't list any in the manual, front or rear.

Philly, I can brake axels with a 12 so I can't imagine what all would break with a 21!

stealthpenguin, I run step pins up front and have no push. You can run the rear hub carriers in the long wheelbase position and take away some push also.

trxstr, sounds like time for new bearings. WD doesn't turn to goo without something else getting in it like dirt. You may try soaking the bearings in some WD but it will be tough to get that stuff out without taking out the seals. Considering the price of bearings, and how long your bearing has to live, is it worth it?

[DLF]

I realize they are for driver preference. I know the purpose of them and when you use them. I'm just trying to determine if they are removed from one version of the truck to the next and if I had a good reason for removing them during the upgrade. I don't usually alter the box setup of a vehical unless I have an obvious reason. Removing limiters is something I wouldn't have done unless supplemental instructions would have told me to do so.

Thanks for the info.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
I hear that the GT pushes a lot in the front. What can I do to counter this?

Someone in this thread (I think it was Raliman) suggested a little drag brake, it helps shift the weight forward going into a turn.

Also make sure you have holes drilled on the insides of your rims so they're not all puffy.

I've never had the GT or any AE truck push, in fact they seem to oversteer and I always have to bump the dual rate down about 10%. I use the old Edge 95's up front.

They will push if your steering servo saver is loose, or if it's a weak servo . . .

[stealthpenguin]

How many holes and how big of holes should be put into the rim?

[geo8498]

Just got my new OS 15cv-x hyper broken in. new tuned pipe too.

[geo8498]

just had to show it off.

[Railman]

Stealthpenguin,
In addition to what Rockinbill said, you might try laying the front shocks down, using lighter front springs, raising the rear ride height, using a lighter battery pack, going to 25' castor blocks (any of the above). The idea is to end up with more weight transfer to the front of the truck. Most people I know run anywhere from 3/4 to 1 1/2 oz of weight added to the front. I settled for 3/4 oz. The reason Losi's tend to steer better is that they are about 5 oz heavier than the GT. The Losi's tend to get loose in the rear though. Another huge factor that many overlook is the diff. If it's not free, it'll mess everything up on a loose track. There are other things to try, but these are the main ones.
Joe

[BashCat]

Cool shocktowers! I have noticed that most aluminum
hopups are either blue or silver. I think red would be really cool, what colors are popular with you guys?:confused:

[speedydave]

Originally posted by rocknbil
Someone in this thread (I think it was Raliman) suggested a little drag brake, it helps shift the weight forward going into a turn.

I added a very small amount of drag brake to my GT to get the same effect, and now I have just enough steering. :)

[stealthpenguin]

Doesn't that really reduce the life-span of your brake disc?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
Doesn't that really reduce the life-span of your brake disc?
Not really, or marginally. Remember we're talking just a touch, and it's only when you let off the throttle and go to idle. At throttle it's not applied. You eat more pad on a hard brake than that.

How many holes and how big of holes should be put into the rim?
Two is sufficient, about 1/8", drilled from the INSIDE of the rim so that no or very little water gets in when you clean up. :D
Originally posted by BashCat
... think red would be really cool, what colors are popular with you guys? ....

Check out my wife's GT, she's tricked out in purples - this pic doesn't show the new OFNA purple linkage and purple dyed 5-spoke RPM rims she got last Christmas, but it's still looking pretty cool.
http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html

[RC10's]

Broken carb thorttle arm + carb stuck at full throttle = 35 into a curb. Stupid ass megatech M16. If your running a megatech (first of all im sorry) second, get a different carb arm ive broken 2 now and this last one cost me a bent chassis.

[Philly's Finest]

Any ideas on how the tranny will hold up under a hyper 21 power?

It's the old 4 port version. I'm about to start on project 21 :D

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Philly's Finest
Any ideas on how the tranny will hold up under a hyper 21 power?... The general consensus by other posts in this forum is that it won't.

Originally posted by RC10's
...Broken carb thorttle arm + carb stuck at full throttle = 35 into a curb....

1. Proof positive anything more than a .15 is overkill. :D
2. votes we all raise a big GT prayer for RC10's
3..........

I've said this many times ............


CURBS are the number one reason to keep your GT outta the street! :D

[trxstr1961]

well got the engine a LITTLE tuned, but it sounds like its boiling the fuel, but not sure, man i wish i had a video to go by for this engine, thiis FRUSTRATING!! :mad:

[CJ3willyMX]

well i got my GT today.i cant wait to start putting it together. maybe ill even get it broken in this weekend.

[trxstr1961]

WOW! :eek: What a difference a little tuning does... got her nds runng now, YES!! :D

[CJ3willyMX]

well i got the front end together. next steps are too do the engine mounts and start the tranny and diff.

[CJ3willyMX]

well i have hit a stumbling block. I put the tranny together and not i have to put the pin through the top shaft, but i cannot get it in. How did you all get it in. I have tried almost everything.

Thanks

and should i have put grease on the gears in the tran because the directions didnt say too.

[stealthpenguin]

I'm picking up my GT-TF today!

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

I can't wait!!!!

[Railman]

CJ3,
First off, be shure you have the right pin. Off the top of my head, I can't remember the different sizes, but there are the ones for the axles, & the one for the top shaft. To put it in, you need to debur the hole a little, & then start the end of the pin that's the
smoothest (some have a slight taper). Then all you need to do is line it up, & press it in with a pair of pliars. Try the slip joint kind, or a pair of channel locks. The idea is to adjust the pliars so the the jaws are parallell & square to the pin. Concentrate on keeping it square to the hole. Once it's started, put a small nut over the topshaft hole, & then press ther pin into the nut. I know it sounds painfull, but it works! :rolleyes: Anyway, that's how I do it.
Joe

[CJ3willyMX]

got it in! thanks

[1tuffRC10]

CJ3, no grease in the gears unless you are running the steel idler and titanium top shaft. Just use grease inside the diff. BTW Use black in the thrust balls and white or clear in the drive rings. If you aren't using the diff seals, take one of those dust seals for the ball cups and put it in the right side before the plastic spacer. It'll help keep dirt out of the thrust balls.

[NoPulse]

Hey Tuff, I just ovehauled my Tranny and I put the black stuff on the balls, and on the gears. is this gonna be a problem?
also when I put the dust ring, does it go before or after the white plastic thing? as it stands I have the plastic thing, then the orange ring, then the d-bone (of course).

[NoPulse]

I just added major parts to my GT.
-I converted it to a non-pull start
-blue header & pipe
-graphite front & rear shock towers
-Blue Head
check it out....

[NoPulse]

more pics

[NoPulse]

More...

[NoPulse]

I got this box today. XTM Racing for $69.99
Can I zip tie the battery down inside the box?
If i do so the battery will be on its side, is this acceptable? will the battery leak?
check it out...

[BashCat]

I am enjoying my GT so much that I want to get more involved in this sport and am starting to design hop-ups for this car. I am going to start with the shocktowers, but I need some input from you guys, for example, do you prefer the really nice looking purple parts, or do you just want inexpensive aluminum parts, your opinions would be appreciated.
:confused:

[Polk]

Hey guys

Took the GT out today and rung it out!!!
Man i thrased it and bashed it flew it over dirt, burnouts, donuts, you name it i did it!!
Engine ran like a dream, loads of smoke relly inpressing the crowd of people watching me!

Pity i lost a front wheel nut and drowned it in a HUGE mud puddle, was time to go home anyway!!!!!!!!

Andyway, i took engine, and electrics of the chassis and hosed it down, took ages to get it shining!

So now i gotta find a new wheel nut......Anyone know where?

Rocknbil can you send me some with the other GT parts?

Anyway i havent taken the carb restricter out yet and man this thing hauls!!!!!!!!!


Woo!

[ross]

Polk,

Just use the standard Assocaited front wheel nuts, dont be tempted go with with aluminium nylock nuts, although I dont thinkt hey make a coarse enough thread for the front axles anyway.


NoPulse,

Nice truck.

[stealthpenguin]

I got my GT-TF w/ .12 CV-R... and this thing RIPS!

I couldn't believe how fast it was, leagues faster than my old .15FE.

GAH! I'm so excited! :D

[Laterilus]

thought I might find you over here Stealth!:D Took me awhile to figure out what forum you migrated to.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by NoPulse
....the battery will be on its side, is this acceptable?.....

That is an SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) and yes, it is fine on its side. I would put a good rubber pad along the inside of the box where the battery connections are in case the insulated connectors fall off so it doesn't short out on the inside of the box. Also you might consider getting some posts to stick through the side of the box so you don't have to open it to charge it.

Originally posted by Polk
...Took the GT out today and rung it out!!!.....So now i gotta find a new wheel nut......Anyone know where?....can you send me some with the other GT parts?

Absolutely, I'll throw a bunch of extras in, it will all go out next Monday (sorry, been getting off work late!) but don't you have a LHS where you can pick up a few? Indeed stick with the plastic ones up front, metal locknuts in rear, they don't seem to work lose as easily.

[Polk]

Sweet rocknbil, you the man.

But also, im going to the HS today and ill see if they have any nuts, probably not, but ill try. I just noticed i lost one of my front bearings, ill see if they have any of those too.

:)

[BoogerB]

Instead of reading nearly 300 pages.... could someone point me to a post, or post what my first upgrades should be when i get a rc10gt rtr in a few days?

[CJ3willyMX]

mip cva's while assembling them i realized i cant find the .050 allen wrench. does it come in the same bag with all of the other tools?

Thanks

[dog8spam]

What unit is .12? I'm writing a report for school.

[Draxx]

CJ3willyMX- I think it is included with the CVD kit.


I believe it is .12 cubic inches(not sure).

[eman88]

cubic inches.

[RC10's]

yeah .12 cubic inches. You can find cc's too if youd like i think its something like 3. and boogerb- the first thing i would do is swap out that crappy ass jaguar radio for something decent. Then i would get CVDs the rest of it isnt too bad.

[BashCat]

If you said the you lost the front wheel, then the thread should be 5-40. This is the same as the stealth differential slipper clutch nut.
I had the stock nylon nuts, and after I hit a curb, the nut popped off and my wheel bearings popped off too. I only found one:(
You should absolutely switch to the aluminum nuts with the nylon insert. AE# 6629 for $1.00

$1.00 keeps you from losing a $4.00 bearing:D

[speedydave]

It's .12 ci, or cubic inches, which is 2.11 cc, or cubic centimeters. .15 ci is 2.5 cc(hence the 2.5 name for Traxxas's newest engine), and .21 ci is 3.5 cc...may not be exact(like, .002 cc off...lol), but this is what RB claims on their site.

[Polk]

Hey

I went to the HS today, they didnt have any bearings or nuts to fit the GT, the GT is not very common around here.

So rocknbil...see what you can do!

[1tuffRC10]

I believe that the front wheel nuts are 4-40. I know the slipper nut is. A 5-40 lock nut will go on and feel like it is tightening up but, the plastic insert is all that is holding. They use those plastic nuts for the front wheels but I use the steel lock nuts.

[1tuffRC10]

Sorry I'm so late but I believe I would clean that grease out and try again. Put the dust seal in before the plastic spacer, the white one with ears on it. This will help your diff stay free of dirt and keep it smooth. Most of the time a "crunchy" diff is caused by dirt in the thrust balls. Like I said, no grease on the gears unless you are using the steel idler and titanium top shaft.

[ross]

Originally posted by BashCat
If you said the you lost the front wheel, then the thread should be 5-40. This is the same as the stealth differential slipper clutch nut.
I had the stock nylon nuts, and after I hit a curb, the nut popped off and my wheel bearings popped off too. I only found one:(
You should absolutely switch to the aluminum nuts with the nylon insert. AE# 6629 for $1.00

$1.00 keeps you from losing a $4.00 bearing:D


I disagree with that, a plastic nut allows it to rip off should you hit a curb where has if you used a aluminium nut it would stay on and probaly break something else such has a axle or wisbone or bend a turnbuckle. The bearings should fit tightly inside the wheel anyway.

JMO


Ross.

[NoPulse]

Your the man Tuff!
Heres what happened: I ran the truck with grease on the gears, and the car only went at half speed? it was like way too slippery. I rebuilt the tranny (following your advise) and the truck is back to its old tricks...hauling butt!
Thanks

[rocknbil]

You can get locknuts for the front. They are a little harder to handle becasue they're not as tall as the plastic ones, and for the same reason the wrench tends to slip on them a little easier. Most importantly, over the years I've found that the nylon ones don't tend to loosen up as easily as the metal ones.

[Polk]

Whatever you can get for me rocknbil.

I am your clay...mold me..

:p

[dog8spam]

$1.00 keeps you from losing a $4.00 bearing

...while breaking a $7.00 A-arm.:p

[eman88]

http://cgi. ebay.com/ws/ eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3120734204
one space in each bold area that have to be taken out.

I was thinking it was worth 160-170ish.
It seems to be a basically new FT chassis, with a magnum junior FM radio on 75 mhz(around 100 bucks).
I guess I would need,
engine
pipe
clutch setup
he gave me a chassis shot. absolutely no scratches.

on second thought, since its new it should come with a pipe and clutch right?

[BTE214]

it's me again. I need help. I have the gt rtr. i just bought new dogbones (other ones were bent) i ran my truck today and the dogbone would pop out of the outdrive at anyhting over 5mph. it only happens in the right side. it looks as if the white part that holds the diff bolt in the outdrive sticks out too far so the dogbone can't push very far into the outdrive.

[1tuffRC10]

rcracer214, have you got that piece in backwards? The ears on it should be to the outside of the truck. BTW Are the springs and spacers still in the axel?

As for that deal about the metal locknuts on front wheels. You can land hard enough from a jump to pop those plastic nuts right off. They are good for shocks at least that's where I use them. I just prefer the metal ones. There shouldn't be any curbs on a off road track! LOL

[BTE214]

nope the ears are in the right way i had to replace the diff bolt and made sure to put it in according to the manual thanks for the help

[1tuffRC10]

rcracer, Are the springs and spacers in the stub axels?

[bubbastump]

whooo hooooo we r gettin ready to rebuild track and man will it be better than b4 ill post pics when it is done

[1tuffRC10]

NOW WE ARE TALKING! Winter is on the way out. Now if we can get a break from this rain we'll get back to the fun!

Bubbastump, we are in the process of building a track here. It is laid out just need to put in the jumps. Two crossovers! Should be a high 30 to low 40 second track. Very technical.

rcracer, any luck?

[thuglove]

RTR RC10GT for sale $185 e-mail me if interested

[bubbastump]

1tuff u come up here fer some races and well come down

do yall have roar races there any national events?

our track is goin to be a lot more tecnical
laps Time Ave Spd
78 45 : 6 .27 13.74
that was last years a main results

[tipper]

If any one wants to know a great gressing methed just reply to this. I just got new bearings for my clutch bell and after the first run the clutch bell would spin for at least 1 min. I found out that was bad after I had to buy new ones a couple days ago. I found a great gresse to use. now they run smooth and I get more power out of it.

just wanted to tell u all reply if u want to know :D

[Henry G]

Originally posted by ross
I disagree with that, a plastic nut allows it to rip off should you hit a curb where has if you used a aluminium nut it would stay on and probaly break something else such has a axle or wisbone or bend a turnbuckle. The bearings should fit tightly inside the wheel anyway.

JMO


Ross.


I have a Kyosho Pureten Electric Rally. It had Plastic nuts to keep the wheels on. After a few months, I was driving it around in the park when my wheel fell off because the nut got stripped. Retards at Kyosho! :rolleyes: It grounded me for about a week until my dad could take me to the Hardware store. But yay! When my parents get paid, I get to buy my RC10GT+ online!:D I can't wait!
P.S. Which glow plugs u guys use?

[thuglove]

Henry G YOU GOT MAIL

[ross]

Originally posted by Henry G
I have a Kyosho Pureten Electric Rally. It had Plastic nuts to keep the wheels on. After a few months, I was driving it around in the park when my wheel fell off because the nut got stripped. Retards at Kyosho! :rolleyes: It grounded me for about a week until my dad could take me to the Hardware store. But yay! When my parents get paid, I get to buy my RC10GT+ online!:D I can't wait!
P.S. Which glow plugs u guys use?

I think Im using a Novarossi C6 in my CVR at the moment seems to be great, if its not that then its a OS No. 8.

[1tuffRC10]

Bubbastump, last year we had a couple of big races here, at the old track. Saxton, Deganni and Sinclair were among the racers. We were not a ROAR track then but this new one will be last I heard. I believe that the next "big" race we will be at is the GA state race in Savannah. Around the end of April. We haven't got far enough along with the new track to set any schedule yet. A friend of mine has a website set up with a listing of all the tracks and races in the area. www.ncorra.com Check it out

Henry G, if you get the AE engine, use the MC plugs or AE. They are the same.

[stealthpenguin]

What tires are the best for street use?

Right now, I have 2 pairs of Holeshots (1 worn, 1 new), 2 pairs of Edges, and 1 pair of Gladiators (they're in the mail).

[eman88]

proline road hawgs or road rage IIs.
they have a slightly different tread pattern.
The road rages have cuts that curve out to the sides of the tire, while the street hawgs have lines that go straight down the tire.
I forgot about the striker 2s. I havent seen many people with them, the road hawgs and road rage IIs looks like they would be better.
Road Hawgs
http://www.prolineracing.com/proline/tires/1060/1060.jpg

Road Rage IIs
http://www.prolineracing.com/proline/tires/1062/1062.jpg
Proline also has the striker 2s and the Speed hawgs but the two i talked about above look better




http://cgi. ebay.com/ws/ eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3121211614


165 is a good deal for the above truck right?


I'm also looking into this truck

http://cgi. ebay.com/ws/ eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3120734204

what do you think of both of them?

[1tuffRC10]

The top one looks like it has a large bumper like a RTR or non team chassis. Not sure of what engine he is talking about.

[1tuffRC10]

The top one looks like it has a large bumper like a RTR or non team chassis. Not sure of what engine he is talking about.

[Polk]

Hey

Heres the story, i got my GT wasted in a mud puddle so i took of the engine, and all the electrics and hosed it down, etc.

i have put everything back on but im stuck and confused on the throttle linkages!!

My carb keeps sliding OUT of the barrel, is this normal?! My low speed needle it tightened all the way in, as with my high speed needle (to set it back to factory settings..) i cant seem to get the idle speed in as far as it used to, i took it all the way out then treyd to put it in again, but the carb still slides all the way out of the barrel (to the right..)

What the heck is happening here?!

Im running the stock engine..

heres a pic to show what i mean.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=938544

[NoPulse]

Not to worry my friend. back out your idle screw so you can slide the barrel back in.
now, look inside the carb and align the barrel hole with the carb intake hole. then screw in the idle screw, gently feeling it adance into the groove on the barrel. to check so see if it is in, close the barrel, and as you tighten the idle screw, then barrel will open.

[eman88]

I think it is this engine
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCZD3&P=0
It is actually more than the .15, 115 for it vs 105 for the .15

The bumper looks pretty small on both trucks, I'm not sure what you mean.

[RC10's]

nopulse has the right answer there i think. My friends RTR did the same thing. Do yourself a favor and get that carb restrictor out of there.

[1tuffRC10]

The RTR or non team chassis has a wider bumper in the front. It mounts differently. Doesn't matter a lot if you just want a GT. There is a few differences in the chassis. The RTR is shorter and thicker. Got to go so we can drive 4 hours to race today. Everything has been rained out for the past two months!

[bubbastump]

wow im gonna need a lot more tallent this year
finished drainage used 4 loads of clay finished the quads the wiggles table top and 2 berms thats only 1 side od track getin ready to head out there and do other side im takin camera today

[eman88]

1tuffrc10-I do want a FT if possible.
do you think this one is a FT?

http://cgi. ebay.com/ws/ eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3121211614
I can get that for 165+shipping. It looks like it has the tub chassis. Did the FT ever come in a tub chassis?


was it this truck that you think isnt a FT?
http://cgi. ebay.com/ws/ eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3120734204
It is the non-pull version. If i wanted to put in a pullstart engine I would just need a new flywheel and new engine mounts right?

[bad viking]

Hi

I Just brought a new RC10GT Factory Team with a OS 12cv-r engine, a 200oz servo from Airtronics and a nice little Trinity batterypack. I have never runned it, and i am just wondering; what upgrades can i do with later??

The really
BAD VIKING

[YZ167]

Get Mip 4 n 1 clutch, Mip steering, RPM 3 degree rear mounts are a must **, RPM front and rear body post, a new top transmission brace, and a better brake pad and a hex adapter is all you need.
Thats my 2 cents.
Jacob

[stealthpenguin]

Viking, I have the exact same car as you! Except I have 2 Hitec 5925 servos. I have the 3 degree mounts, and I have a drum brake. I haven't upgraded my tranny brace yet, but I will eventually. The car is very quick with the CV-R, and it locks up the wheels everytime with the drum brake. I couldn't be happier!

[bubbastump]

stupid me shoulda checked camera batteries first ill swing by tommorow after doctors appointment.track is coming along awesome my 2 cars were first on track for testing 1/8 scale no problem. cleared the quads. whooo hoooooo. 1/10 (gt) couldnt clear crossover so we gotta reshape launch and cut down the lander can we say nose dive . man i gotta order some a arms and nose plates and quick .

i will get yall some pics

[stealthpenguin]

If I used street-tires, would I use them in both the rear and the front?

[bubbastump]

yup

[BTE214]

the problem still persists. My dogbone pops out on the right side out of the outdrive. It seems the white plastic nut that holds the diff bolt is out way too far. Can anyone post a pic of how it should be?

[RC10's]

do yourself a favor and just get CVDs

[bad viking]

1st i wanna thank you 4 your fast replies!! You guys ROCK!
But i was just wondering, (again) how much do this stuff cost?
I just want to know how many monesteries i have to rob... HEHE
Also, can any 1 show me some nice paint jobs???
Im getting a new body from atomik, I just need inspiration for my job!

The BAD VIKING

[1tuffRC10]

rcracer. The only thing I can think of is maybe you got the outdrives on the wrong sides. Is the plastic against the diff bolt? That plastic piece should slide all the way in the outdrive. It should not hit the diff bolt.

badviking, Drum style brakes, Trinity 6 hole tranny brace, and a reciever box. The RPM steering is good but I heard that it changes the geometry of the steering so it's not as good for racing as the stock. MIP clutch and a heavy flywheel if you are going to run any "slick" dirt tracks. Oh and bearings if you don't have them.

bubbastump, I know what you mean with the landing ramps. I got to try out our new jumps this weekend and wow. Truck went over 6 feet high and cleared at least 15 feet. They told me to quit before I tore something up!

eman88, if it's a tub chassis it's not a FT. A FT chassis is only $45 so whatever truck you decide, you can put a FT chassis on it easy enough. I started with a nonFT and had a blast with it.

[rocknbil]

1TUFF I'M WITH YA ON THE RAIN MAN, geeze every time the weekend comes around here it comes on queue AAAAGH!

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
street tires . . .

One word on streets - the low profile tires look cool but will never give you the traction of dirt hawgs in the rear and an old set of Edge or Losi rails, soft compound, all with the inserts removed. Glue them on snug with only one hole in the rims and they'll bite like glue on asphalt or tennis courts. :D

[BTE214]

thanks for the help guys! i think i had the plastic pieces in the wrong outdrives i'll have to rebuild it thanks for the help

[stealthpenguin]

Yah, that's what I was planning on doing. I think I will put Dirt Hawg's in the rear, and some M2 Edges in the front, because the asphalt like to tear up my M3 Edges it seems.

[eman88]

I know a kid in college with an rc10gt. He has road hawgs. Its just constant tire spinning and donuts if he wants them with his .12 cv-x.


1tuffrc10gt- he gave me more pictures, it is definately the FT. He said 170 without the reciever which is fine because I would have just sold the reciever.

It is this truck,
http://cgi. ebay.com/ws/ eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3121211614
I think thats a good deal.
It has the .12 team associated engine.
I have to go now, let me know!

[geo8498]

I was at the park yesterday, and was having a good ol' time with a pair of Dirt Works on the rear. They ran great on the asphalt, grass and gravel. They seem to have a nice long tread life too. Can't remember if they are M2 or M3. They seem a bit harder than my M3 Bow Ties.

I tried the Strikers and didn't like them. I also ran a set of Speed Hawgs, which may have well been made of teflon cookie sheet for as bad traction as they have.

Other times when I want to run on the asphalt, I like to put a set of worn out Bowties on the rear.

[bubbastump]

ok i got some pics i just gotta upload and adjust size . i gots other probs also
hard hard packed clat no blue groove yet my bowties just wanna spin what should i get?

[bubbastump]

pic 1

[bubbastump]

pic 1 was the double after the back stretch this is right infront of where the drivers stand will be on left

[bubbastump]

this is the quad and the tripple with a semi makin it a quad but not really

[bubbastump]

here is the crossover but it needs a lil work and remember track is not finished yet

[speedydave]

Hey guys. I haven't posted here in a while..so...

I think I'm going to buy an OS .12 TR(S) for my GT. However, I know there are two manifolds that would work well with this: the Trinity truck manifold, and the Losi manifold. Which manifold would be better for the GT? I'm thinking the Losi because it doesnt hang as low down. Also, would the manifold hit the rear part of the brace/engine mount? Can anyone with a rear exhaust engine and one of these two manifolds please post some pics of how they set it up, and say if they needed to bend the manifold in any way to get it to work right? Thanks! :)

[1tuffRC10]

speedydave, I run the TR with the Losi header and Drake pipe. The only mod was I drilled a new hole for the pipe bracket. It works great. You may want to get a heavy flywheel as the TR has lots of power.

[speedydave]

You don't have any clearance problems(with the part of the engine mount that goes around the back of the engine), or any problems with the drake manifold sitting too low(if the chassis bottoms out, so does the manifold...seen this with the trinity manifold)? Otherwise, it was a straightforward, standard install? Also, how is the TR? I've seen one run in a GT, and driven one in an NTC3, but never driven one in a GT. Thanks! :)

[ross]

The Drake manifold was designed to be put in trucks so it doesnt rub on the chassis or body and doesnt bottom out like it would when using a normal onroad manifold.

[speedydave]

Alright, thanks. I pretty much figured that, but I have SEEN trucks with Trinity Truck manifolds have that kind of problem(especially in a GT), so I just wanted to make sure. I guess I'll be picking up a Drake manifold.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by eman88
...I know a kid in college with an rc10gt. He has road hawgs. Its just constant tire spinning and donuts if he wants them with his .12 cv-x.....

Do you mean this tire in a soft compound, without inserts?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU11&P=7

I say no freakin way man! :D Of course, any tire will spin if you have the slipper too tight . . . any way I've been through road hawgs, foams, and dirt hawgs of any compound and combo, and if there's anything that bites better on pavement I'm all ears!

[1tuffRC10]

speedydave, I really like my TR in my FT.The header is about 3/8 inch above the bottom of the chassis. It doesn't have a scrape mark on it. I wish my chassis didn't! I run a heavy flywheel so it's not as quick on the bottom. Idles better with it too. Finally wore out a clutch nut this weekend and lost the outer bearings. Finished sixth even after coming off the stand to fuel my own truck! Truck ran for a 10 minute main without the outer bearing! Clutch is junk and so is the inner bearing but it never quit. BTW was only one lap from third. I know I lost one lap coming off the stand!

[bubbastump]

hard hard packed clay no blue groove yet my bowties just wanna spin what should i get? i want to try evil twins but not around here yet please help

[speedydave]

Cool, thanks! Looks like I'll be getting the TR then! Just curious, what kind of fuel do you run, and what kind of run times are you getting on a tank? I know everything varies immensely, but I'm just curious. :)

bubba, try holeshots.

[eman88]

Originally posted by rocknbil
Do you mean this tire in a soft compound, without inserts?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU11&P=7

I say no freakin way man! :D Of course, any tire will spin if you have the slipper too tight . . . any way I've been through road hawgs, foams, and dirt hawgs of any compound and combo, and if there's anything that bites better on pavement I'm all ears!


nope, he was running these tires http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU03&P=7

[CJ3willyMX]

well here is a pic of my FT GT that i just finished. body looks better in person but not THAT great

[trxstr1961]

got my 2nd NDS runing right!! :)

Now to get my 2 gt's up and running!! :D

[RC10's]

I am running the Dirt Hawg 2 tires by proline and i must say they work very well on both street and dirt. Cant hurt to try them, they are a little larger then a bow tie or something though so a small suspension drop cant hurt, and a re-gear (if you honestly think you cuold notice the difference in the tire diameter).

[RC10's]

actually.... i just check and the tires are pro line dirt works PN1072 "all-terrain". The tires arent on pro lines website so maybe they were discontinued, which would be too bad because i really do like them, anyways good luck with your tire selection.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Hey guys it been a while since Ive been in here I finally ran my gt after my thurough winter cleaning and when I took it apart for cleaning after I used it, I decided to solve a problem that been bothering me for some time. On my gt the Idler shaft(the gear with the shaft that sticks out of the gearbox which the spur gear and slipper clutch go on) can move in and about about a millimeter or mabey a little more, Its always been this way and is causing my spur gear to hit the part of the rear a-arm that the hinge pin is in, when it moves out. I double checked that I used the right bearings and shims but theyre all the right ones. I noticed that the Idlershaft bearings arent flush with the case (again its always been this way not a result of wear) they are they are in about half a millimeter from flush. Im wondering If anybody else has had this problem and if its a defect with the tranny case or the Idler shaft, I know this shouldnt happen because it dosnt on my friends gt.

Any help would be appricated, Thanks

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by eman88
....nope he was running these tires ....

Bill sez DOH Got my Hawgs crossed, which can lead to mutant Hawgs . . . yeah the Dirt Hawgs work out pretty well, although I was looking at the Gladiators, they look like they might be pretty good on pavement . . .

Originally posted by RC10's
actually.... i just check and the tires are pro line dirt works PN1072 "all-terrain"....

Yeah RC 10's those are Dirt Hawgs, follow the link a few posts back and you'll see they are indeed the same tire.

[ross]

Originally posted by rocknbil
Bill sez DOH Got my Hawgs crossed, which can lead to mutant Hawgs . . . yeah the Dirt Hawgs work out pretty well, although I was looking at the Gladiators, they look like they might be pretty good on pavement . . .


Yep the Gladiators are great on concrete, last year there was an indoor trucking event in the UK that was on tarmac, everyone found that the Gladiators worked excellent, far better than any of the road hawgs or road rages.

I use both road hawgs and gladiators depending, although i had great grip with both with my old dynamite .12s engine, since i put my CVR in i tried the road hawgs for the first time, and they were crap, especially on the rear, but i didnt have time to play with the suspension and slipper clutch settings, so i cant really judge them yet.



Ross.

[1tuffRC10]

Pro3, shim that thing. I call it the drive shaft. Not sure what AE calls it. Be sure you have the stock spacers in it still. You can put the shims in the side with the slipper and "push" the shaft in a little. The middle gear is called the idler gear. You may want to try new spacers first.

cj3, Nice paint!:)

[stealthpenguin]

I hear that Gladiators only last 10 tanks on asphalt.

[geo8498]

I just got an OS.15V Hyper, and the flywheel has worked loose. How do I get it to tighten down? I can't turn the nut either way without the crankshaft turning. Is there a trick? Should I take the flywheel completely off and put some locktight on the nut? But I can't even loosen the nut to take it off? Already cost me a bearing, and causes the engine to stall out. Hope someone can help.

[YZ167]

I have something like this and works great for getting the flywheel locked down good. I've been using it on my OS .15 Cv and there has'nt been a probably since. here is the link http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=57_47_84&products_id=2536&osCsid=873772e06e879205a5273a13f32beadf

[1tuffRC10]

geo, you will have to get a crank locking tool. They make two different kinds. One goes in the end cap of the engine, the other screws in the glow plug hole. The latter will dent your piston so try not to use that kind. That one above is the one that will dent your piston. BTW Locktite, yes!

speedydave, I use Odonnell 20%. However I recently found out that the oil content is too low. Not too sure about that but they said add a little castor oil and it would be fine. As long as mine stays under 240 I'll keep using it the way it is. I can get close to 10 minutes under the right circumstances (racing). OS 8 plug and a Drake pipe. I keep my throttle set under 75% on the radio. I just don't need all that power.

[speedydave]

Alright, cool. Thanks! I run O'Donnell 20% in all of my engines, and I haven't had any problems yet. I never let the engines overhaet(they always have blue smoke coming from the exhaust, and I temp them..depends for each engine though). I also use plenty of after-run oil, so I'm not too worried.

[geo8498]

Thanks guys. I managed it though. I thought about removing the head and blocking the piston, but that didn't sound too prudent. So I removed the pullstart, (OS considerately built the pullstart so it's self contained and the spring doesn't fly apart). Then I happily noticed the nice one-way hex nut simply needed turned around to remove the clutch nut. Since I'm in there, I'm replacing the flywheel collet and washer. Then just remember to turn the one way bearing around and wrench the thing back together.

[1tuffRC10]

geo, Good idea! I never thought of that one but I run bump start.:D

[RCFAN]

i have a wasp 12 offroad engine rear exhaust and the losi header. the engine run's good and all but a little after mid range it's like some one hit nos it takes off i have never had a engine do that. it a gt with the stock pipe . i took the pipe off after break in and it had fuel ine the pipe. but i guess that is from where i was running it rich. i have not taken the pipe off again to see if it was still doing it the pipe is at a angle so if it was running rich the fuel would not make it out. i have seen the line form the pipe to the tank has bubbles in it. both of my line's are cut short i wonder if that would have anything to do with it. sorry for the long post

[geo8498]

Flywheel is back on a snug. New collet seems to have made a difference too. Since I was getting my hands good and greasy, I decided that now would be a good time to try my experiment with replacing the brake lever. I bent a new one using 3/32" steel rod, which took me most of the night to get it just right. Then I replaced the brake disk too. Seems to be alot tighter than it ever has been. Locks up as tight as on my 1/8 buggy.

[geo8498]

Here's a picture of my new brake lever. 3/32" steel rod. Had to drill out the holes on the plate ever so slightly to fit it. The fuel line on it is to prevent the rod from falling into the spur gear in case the e-clip I fitted pops off. The rod end is from a broken turnbuckle.

FYI...You may notice the odd looking turnbuckles on the rear, which are from a Duratrax Maximum ST. Probably not pleasing for the RC10 purist, and not as light as titniums, but that's what LHS had in stock and they fit fine. The collars on the shocks are old Kyosho collars, just because I had them.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
Pro3, shim that thing. I call it the drive shaft. Not sure what AE calls it. Be sure you have the stock spacers in it still. You can put the shims in the side with the slipper and "push" the shaft in a little. The middle gear is called the idler gear. You may want to try new spacers first.

cj3, Nice paint!:)
I checked that I had all the right spacers and parts on it right away and I did know the middle gear is called the Idler gear the gear with the shaft that Im talking about is called a Idler shaft(or close to that)by some companys and a top shaft by others, anyway this is what im talking about:
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/r/rrpc1512.jpg
do you know of any thinner shims that'll fit it so I can fine tune it to get rid of the play? or mabey I should just get a new seath ctranny case?

[stealthpenguin]

How long will M2 Gladiators last on pavement?

[ross]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
How long will M2 Gladiators last on pavement?

Mine have hardly started to wear and thats after a days racing on tarmac and ive lost count of how many tanks on the street.

[1tuffRC10]

Pro3, I'm not sure where I got the shims from. They are smaller than CVD shims.

[bubbastump]

i just got TF05A http://www.teamtrinity.com/tires/1-10truck.asp
seem like a good starting point for a new track

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
I hear that Gladiators only last 10 tanks on asphalt. well any tire will burn up if you like to spin them off! Seriously though, never tried them but they look like they'd to well.

[Wallis Racing]

I have M2 gladiators and i was only using them for dirt and grass, took quite a while before the sharp edge of the pins was gone, like 20tanks. so offroad their life is good, and even after they lost their sharp edge, my GT was still flipping under accel in the grass, so i was pretty happy with that. then oneday i was at a mates, and i only took my glads and we were messing around on the road. after like 5 tanks, the spikes were half their original size. thats when i stoped using them on the road. (BTW, thats with a RB X12) so i'd estimate no more then 15tanks before they start to look like slicks.
JMHO

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[bad viking]

[SIZE=4]CHALANGE !!!!!!!![/SIZE

Hey, here is a challange 4 all GT racers: If you had a unlimmited budget how would you uppgrade your GT??
NO LIMITS HERE
just go crayzy and think of anything you would like to have on your truck!!


The BAD Viking

[Draxx]

Pro3/nmt105- I think I used shims for the MIP cvd's. I had them laying in my parts box and they worked great. Cured the play and rubbing in my tranny.

Perhaps you have some around or can find some somewhere. Just a thought.

[Mystracing]

I do have an unlimited budget, as far as RC is concerned, and a sponsorship. The only upgrades on my GT (It's a factory team) are a Crescenzi brake, rpm rear hubs with larger bearings, a TC3 gas tank, and t3 front caster blocks. The rest of the stuff doesn't do anything but make it look good unless you crash hard, a lot. Even then it usually just changes what you break, instead of breaking a ball cup you brake an a-arm for example.

I broke a ball cup in a head on with a truck that jumped the track, but I haven't broken anything else in the last two months of racing.

[Wallis Racing]

Originally posted by Mystracing
...The rest of the stuff doesn't do anything unless you crash hard, a lot....

...I broke a ball cup ... but I haven't broken anything else in the last two months of racing.

You are 100% correct. if i only raced, my GT would have hardly any hop-ups. but seeing as im the complete oposite to you, its a totaly different story. i 'try' race every second weekend, and every other weekend im BMX track bashing, and all the days between im jumping around my house. doing jumps means crashing. doing lots of jumps means having lots of crashes. doing LOTS of HUGE jumps means, well, LOTS of HARD crashes.

i got my GT around the middle of last year, and since then i have broken:
4 castor blocks/uprights
4 ball cups
12 ball ends(HPI ones, not the AE ones)
4 rear arms
1 header spring
4 header gaskets / rubber seals
2 servo horns
pretty much all the alloy screws(some broken, some striped)
4 AA battery holder things(shattered from rear landings)
4 rear body posts lost(they get ripped off)
4 snaped rear body post mounts
4 rear hub bearings
7 clutch bearings(4 wrecked, 3 lost)
1 striped idler gear
4 rear hubs
1 rear bulkhead
2 tanks
5 bent hinge/king pins
1 bent and mangled chassis
1 broken diff case
1 bent shock shaft
2 striped shock caps
both front chassis brace tubes bent
1 broken graphite rear shock tower
1 stuffed brake arm thingy

And theres prolly a lot more then that.
the only stock things on my GT are shocks, brakes, tranny case, towers, front bulkhead, front chassis brace tubes, throttle servo mounts, all hubs and knuckles, lower tranny brace, rear bumper. so i have hoped up most things, but i still break stuff, just not as much. mainly cause i get harder and harder on my GT. it will never be finished, there will allways be something. but recently i havent broken anything, so my GT is getting better and better. so to answer bad vikings question a little better, i would do what i have been doing, but if i had a little more money, i would get shocks, alloy hubs, knuckles and alloy front bulk head, Ti front chassis tubes, Cecrenzi brake, and thats about it. i generally like to keep away from alloy, but its allright for things like knuckles. so....yeah, thats enough rambling.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by bad viking
.....If you had a unlimmited budget how would you uppgrade your GT??.....

I would have everything from the lug nuts to the transmission gears made out of a special gold and titanium alloy (of course there's no such thing - I would have my personal team of scientist formulate it.)

Servos - nanotechnology. 300 oz/in torque and it's invisible. Nuff said.

Radio - electrotelekinetic brain implants.

For engine? Screw nitro. My team of Korean nuclear physicists would create a mini thermonuclear reactor engine that would run indefinately on the amount of uranium that would fit o nthe head of a pin.

For tires, I would have only silicone compound tires, air inflated, made from the discarded breast implants of movie stars. 20 sets.





:D

OK now the truth. The truth is, when asked this question, I try not to think about it, it only hurts.

[1tuffRC10]

Good one rockinbill. LOL:D I'm going to miss this forum. Going to be a couple of weeks before they get my new house wired. Got to get out where I'm at so I'll see ya'll in a few weeks. Good luck with the tracks, trucks and racing. I'll Be Baaack......

[pitchblend]

im buying a new enigne for my fac team gt, anyone know if the cv-rx is much more fast and or reliable than the cv-x, thank you.

[bubbastump]

heck yeah i just made the same jump the cv i think is .51 hp and cvr is 1.11 i think get rid of the pullstart get a bumpstarter
its much better

i just added some experiments to my gt a fiberglass cloth (like heat sink t