Losi XXX Forum v1.0

[Aussie_Man]

Well I'll have to buy another thrust bearing assembly thing.

[SirSpeedy]

The uncaged bearing is actually a little smoother.

Just tear it down, clean it all up, and rebuild it. Make sure it is the diff first, and not a hub bearing ar something in you driveshaft, etc.

The biggest source of contamination is the thruse bearing. If your washers are scored up, flip them over and go at it again.

See ya...

[XXXER]

Boy! You guys kept this forum warm while i was gone! My DSL server went out o business.

FYI-Ultimate set-up, stock locations, 22.5 Wt. oil all around, #57 pistons, and green out front, with pink out back.

[Aussie_Man]

Well another annoying rain-out race-meeting. Any of you guys raced yet? Tell us your results if ya can.

[XXXER]

Well, that set up above did not work as good as i had planned, when i went out, the track had not yet been broomed off, and never was, so in some places i would push, and others, i would spin out so i first changed the front springs to silver, that helped, but i still spun in some places, i went to yellow out back, and i was dialed, it held the line very tight, and i liked it.

I qualified 6th in the A-Main, and almost had 3rd, but lost it in the last lap, it was awesome though, so i finished 4th

[XXXER]

Come on guys, where did you all go? those AE cars are taking all the space up....

[SirSpeedy]

Well,

Ask a question!

[nitroman1]

Does someone have a good picture of the XXX rear end with an example of the "shim issue"? I think this would greatly help the guys who are still a little unfamiliar or unsure of what to do still. Anybody's help would be great. I don't have a scanner! ;)

[SirSpeedy]

Issue?

Simple. Four screws hold the rear pivot block to the rear of the chassis. No shims under the pivot block at all equals 2deg of anitsquat; shims under the rear of the pivot block where the two rear screws are equals 0deg. Shims in the under the front where the front screws are equal 4deg A/S.

[doublet]

Hey XXXER - Your first setup you suggested was sorta close to mine. I now use all stock positions except rear shock on arm pos. is outside and bulkhead camber pos. is outside, and I use 30wt all around, and green for front and red for back. It works awesome in turning and stablility, but now the track changed and I lost rear traction when entering the first sweeper right after the full speed staight away. Its not bad but I could reallly use a little more rear traction. Could you help?

[XXXER]

I say on the rear bulkhead, put it to the middle position, that will tone down the steering a little more, or a softer stage spring out back would work nicely

[SirSpeedy]

hehehe....

You guys are getting hang of it....longer rear link will keep the car a little stiffer on turn-in, and keep the rear end from washing out...more forward bite as well....

What kind of surface are you running on? Car sounds really stiff.....

[Aussie_Man]

Well guys, I'm departing from my Losi religion for a moment. I'm getting a TC3 which will be soo cool to try onroad. I've only ever driven a xx cr ke and a XXX so it was this or a truck a XX4

[Railman]

Sir Speedy, I've come to the conclusion that the front & back camber rod lengths act almost opposite each other due to the difference in the design of the contact patch of the tires. The rear tires seem to get better side bite when you kick the outside of the tire into contact during chassis roll. Whereas on the front that seems to give less bite, & slow the steering way down. Does this sound right to you?

[ 04-27-2001: Message edited by: Railman ]

[doublet]

SirSpeedy - my track is like almost perfectly flat and smooth, hard packed 70% clay and 30% top soil dirt mixed, not many jumps. The stiff springs do well except for that one sweeper. My rear camber links ARE in the middle. Someone said soften the spring in rear to a yellow and get silver front. will this work?

[SirSpeedy]

Railman-

I don't really understand the "....kick the outside of the tire into contact during chassis roll." ?? Longer links raise roll-center, which makes the car resist roll, which makes it 'feel' stiffer. Lower roll centers generally give more traction, but you can go to soft....the car will absorb too much of the weight transfer in the suspension, and the car will "dump" mid-turn....

Doublet-

If you are on a low bite suface, you are most likely too stiff. I would lighten it all up a little. It is very hard to tell someone what to do without seeing your car. It does not sound like your car is dumping the rear end, but more like it is so stiff it will not allow the chassis to roll over. Try this:
Front
30wt, 55, orange, #2tower-middle on arm, link 2-B w/ 1 washer spindles down and narrow, arms level
Rear
25wt, 56, pink, #2-outside in the arm, link 2-B 2deg Anitsquat(no shims) bones level.

That is what I generally run, and tweak it from there. That should have pretty good balance.

[Railman]

Sir Speedy, Let me ask you this then: Which gives better side bite, more or less negative camber in the rear? Thanks.

[XXXER]

SirSpeedy, the main reason i know about the mounting holes, is that i got the Xtreme mag with the 'hook-up' on the XXX, and it goes through every tuning thing, except for springs and pistons and oils, so that is what i am trying to learn, i know what does what, now i need to find out a little more.

Railman, is that question you asked one that you do not know, or are you seeing if SirSpeedy knows his stuff, if it is the latter one, trust me, this guy really knows his stuff when it comes to this.

[Railman]

XXXER, I have no doubt that Sir Spoeedy knows his stuff. I am only trying to establish, in my mind, how different length camber rods affect side bite in different situations, and why. I guess its the "why?" part that I am most interested in, & at times people second guess my questions because of that. Anyway, I just asked him to find out! Peace! :)

[SirSpeedy]

Rail-

To tell you the truth, I really don't play with it that much. usually just run 1deg neg or so. The only exception to this was in Florida, on the Blue Spec tires. We ran 2deg POSITIVE camber and cut the outside two rows of studs off the tires. I reality, we made them into semi-slicks. The car actually rode on the sidewall of the tire through most turns. Keep in mind, this was a heavily blue-grooved surface.

[SirSpeedy]

Back to the roll-center.....

If you run short links(low center) but the damping is realtively heavy, you will not feel the full effect of the lowered roll center.......The damping will resist roll, regardless of where the links are.

It is all about balance. For instance, on the rear of the Triple, if you go from the B(outer)hole on the rear carrier, to the A(inner)hole, you have lowered the the rollcenter, however if the damping is too heavy, you will loose tracion, since you reduced the leverage the link has on the hub(which is hooked the the tire in the end). This is done to free up a stuck(pushing) car. However in the same instance, if you also reduce the damping, the shorter link will assist the chassis in rolling over, and thus creating more rear bite......unless it is all too soft, and you dump the rear end, then you need to got to a smaller piston, or a 1/4wt higher in oil......

It is all about balance.......

[doublet]

Hey I got yellow springs in back and silver up front to do the job. This is working good now..... but thanks for the info. I didnt have any pink or orange springs anyway, my brother is using them.

[Oyster]

New setup for whomever wants to try it. It's nice for a rough track.
http://members.aol.com/boostedomni/xxx42801.jpg

All comments welcome! :)

- Jon

[Aussie_Man]

Hi guys, I need a bit of help with this track I'm starting to race at. Its a fairly big track (only get about 7-8 laps in 5min) but I'm sliding out pretty easily through the corners in the rear. (think I need more side-bite) I had a look at your set-up sheet Oyster and printed 1, it looks just about what I need except its a long track, not short.
http://www.rccar.com.au/keilor3.JPG
http://www.rccar.com.au/keilor4.JPG

http://www.rccar.com.au/keilor5.JPG

[Aussie_Man]

The car also pushes alot entering and exiting corners. A bit more on-power steering is what I need too I think. Any suggestions would be cool. :)

[SirSpeedy]

You can't be pushing in AND out, and also have the rear end sliding around.....Which is it? It the rear steps out you have too much front traction somewhere....

Have you tried different tires?

[Oyster]

Aussie,

As Speedy said, what's your current tires? Also, what's the setup you're using now? Try my setup out, but you'll be able to gear for more high speed. 20/82 or maybe even 20/76. Depends on motor. That IS a big track, my 11 turn with an 18/82 or even 20/82 would be sweet!

If you're pushing too much IN the corner, like at the apex, slow down a bit. Practice drifting through the corner and also squaring the corner off. Slide into it hard, and pound out with wide open throttle. Can help get around traffic that way.

My current setup would help, but it hasn't been tested on jumps. MIGHT get a little twitchy on landings. If so, try a little heavier oil in the rear.. 25-27.5.

The XXX does push a little on power. Add shims in the rear pivot for a little less forward and more side bite. You could also try limiting the front shocks, and keeping them low.

Give us some details, and we'll rack the brains a little.

- Jon

[Aussie_Man]

Ok, maybe I expland it wrong (sorry). When I enter a corner (like the first big sweeper) the front end pushes alot (sometimes so much that it hits the outside boards) but when I go around a different corner like 1 of the hair-pins, it goes around ok but when I put the power down it spins out really easy. (I am only running a 540 (tamiya/mabutchi type) in the class that I race). I am running xtra wide fronts (silver) and X2000 reds on the rear. I am thinking on changing to bigshots or studs. My gearing was 26/76 when I started but it felt very laggy and sluggish. Then I went to a 27/76 and it had alot more acceleration and top speed. Thats when it started to spin-out heaps. This track only has 1 sort-of jump, like a little ramp. I am currently running standard 30wt shock oil front and rear. Standard springs (yellow rears, silver front springs), 1 washer under ballstud, 30degree castor blocks, (which I might change to 30, I've heard that a few people do that for some reason, have to try) B hole on front carriers, #2 hole on bulkhead. B hole on rear carriers, #2 hole on rear bulkhead, #2 hole on front shoktower and rear tower too. Gtg guys, hope this helps a little.

[XXXER]

Well, i can think of 2 things for the wierd handling problem,
1: You do not have the right tires, look at the fast guys, and ask what foams and tires/compounds they are running.
2: You are not hitting the corners right, stay in the groove, every track has a little bit of a groove, you just need to go in it, as slow as you have to, then try different things to see how you can make it faster through that corner.


Also, little story to tell you all, ever see what happens when a stock racer gets hold of a mod, and thinks he instantly becomes T.S.? It is pretty amusing, for other people it would probably be, I bolted in my friends freshly rebuilt and broken in D4, 13x4, with the sticker saying 39000+ RPM's, and i can vouch for every last one. Of course, this is practice, about an houw before we start racing, and i got a little sqirrely in the sweeper, so i of course tried to counter steer out of it, and SNAPPY SNAPPY, chassis, toast, just like that. me with no $, so i did what any other teen would do, call Pops. He said to call my LHS(I just needed a regular, forget the graphite) and see if they had one, they did, and I told my dad that they would not close til 7 or 8, i forgot. But they closed at 6, but when i called at 6:30, they were open, hmmm, bummer, so he came to the track, and I showed him the graphite, and asked my track owner how much were they, of course, we shelled out a 50, which my dad barely did, LOL, so I now have to pay him back when i get the $. I missed both qualifiers, and ended up doing terrible, because i and another racer got into a hack fest with eachother, but i ended up beating him in the end when it mattered.


Moral? Don't screw up

[Oyster]

How did you snap the chassis??

- Jon

[XXXER]

Well, i thought i explained it pretty well, but it snapped right where the front bulkhead piece, and front chassis brace go together, where you put in those hex thingies, just under the shock tower.

I hit it almost head on, it broke my body too, which is a little wierd :rolleyes: :(

[SirSpeedy]

I have seen a couple of chassis break there...weird....

[Oyster]

Oh.. well.. I guess "Snappy Snappy" explains everything. Good Job man.

Later on all.

- Jon

[doublet]

MAN i really need to buy an aluminum rear pivot block for mine... THIS IS THE 4th TIME I HAE BROKE MY PLASTIC ONE!!!! I am so tired of replacing these. Has anyone else had this problem? I dont even wreck when they break, except for 1 of those i did because i wrecked on purpose. :(

[SirSpeedy]

I run plastic pivots. Do you run the aluminum front brace?

TeamLosi part# A-4138.... $3 bucks.

[XXXER]

I have only broken 1 of them, and have replaced the rear 1 time, that is it, and i run it pretty hard, what I have been seeing peeps do is that they get a longer screw, and go all the way through, and put a gold mini lock-nut on the other side.

[Aussie_Man]

Geez you guys must drive your r/c's really hard cause only ever seen 1 guy really brack something at our track. He broke both front and rear pivot blocks in the same race! Plus I broke my first part on my xxx couple of days ago running a 13x2 (I borrowred from a friend to see how fast it would go) The left rear ballstud broke on the carrier after a couple of bad jumps (like going full throtel and jumping 20ft).

[XXXER]

Ok, SirSpeedy, just so it is written down somewhere, for smoother tracks, i would want to use smaller holes, or higher # shock pistons, and/or heavier oil, right? and opposite for later.

This is a ? that I was not able to get to last night, How do i know what to set up the front or rear, where do i begin? Should I run the same front and rear(I know that is not right, but still, need back up)

[XXXER]

Ok, also speedy, i just checked my e-mail, and i got the pics, and it is a suuuweet track, i bet you really lay down the mods with that straight of yours, it is a cool track, and looks like it would offer decent traction. How often do you change the layout?

[Nairb]

Steve, why don't you forward that e-mail my way? I'm sure SirSpeedy wouldn't mind. :)

[SirSpeedy]

Well, you have two aspects of shock tuning. Pack, and Static Damping.

Pack is a quick movement of the shock. We adjust this with pistons. Smaller holes = less quick movement.

Static Damping is the slower movement of the shock. Like the transfer of weight from side to side through a switchback, or the loading of one side of a chassis through a sweeper. We adjust this with oil.

I have a setup that I start out with. I posted it above for someone. I try and go from there. The kit pistons are 55 front, and 56 rear. That is what I generally run.

Smaller pistons will make the car more responsive to your input. They make the car absorb less of any quick, sharp movement. If the suspension does not absorb it, it is transfered to the track.

Smaller pistons will make the the car less responsive to the track. Smaller bumps, and 'footprint' size holes are not felt as much. When you encounter larger bumps however, too small a piston will cause the car to bouce about and loose traction.

Larger pistons will give you a little more forgiveness, and mellow the car out a little. They also help the car 'absorb' the track, or in other words, develp traction.

[SirSpeedy]

We do a major layoff change probably ever 5-6 months. We tweak the layout a little each month...different jumps, etc.

The front straight is 120' long. I am going to try on get some good pics next weekend. We are hosting a ROAR FL State Series Race.

We do have really good bite for outdoors. Skyler ran his BK bars from your track. I prefer Sprints or X's for club races, and of course Tapers when the groove comes up.

See ya...

[XXXER]

Thanks SirSpeedy, that helped me a ton, i will try this out on Saturday(If i go).

Wow, hosting a ROAR race? good luck with that! Nairb, i will be sure to send you that letter.

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

I just got my XXX sat and ran a 11x2 with gearing 84/20. Does that sound right? Its really FAST!

[doublet]

that sounds awful high..... i ran a 23/78 with a 11x3.

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

Aleast its fast and not over heating. :D :D :D

[doublet]

hmmmm.... oh well

[Nairb]

Actually, Doublet, you were geared higher than futaba-guy. Your ratio is 78/23 = 3.39 and his ratio is 84/20 = 4.2

The lower the number, the harder it is on the motor. futaba-guy, you're OK if it's not getting hot, but I still suggest you check with Losi for their recommended gearing for your buggy with that motor.

[Nairb]

Hey, how's your C2 futaba-guy?

[SirSpeedy]

Gearing all depends on track size, traction, temperature, turn/wind/timing, type of battery, and more.

You can only get there from trial and error. Laptimes always tell the truth.

[Aussie_Man]

Well guys I finally got to go to another meeting yesterday and qualified 1st and finished first overall which was cool. (racing stock too) Next week I'm going to my first onroad meeting with my tc3 which hopefully should be fun, cya's :)

[XXXER]

GOOD JOB aussie! That is cool to here! I wish that mine went as smoothly as i wished.....

I was not able to really tune, like i wanted to, it would have been useless, they changed the track on sunday either way. It is just that there is a whole lot of hacking going on which is wierd for stock class(that last part should be read: Matt)

Either way, i have yet to get last place, which is a good thing, i have come way to close though LOL

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

Nairb, Stupid Tower did it again!!!! Sent the wrong ITEM!!! lets see a pair of 1/8 tires that cost $20 can instead of a speed control that cost $140!!! I AM OFFICAILY NEVER ORDERING FROM TOWER AGIAN!!!! 3rd TIME!! THEY EVEN SENT ME DAMAGE BATTERIES BEFORE!! And we sent them back and got more damaged batteries so one more time!! They where out of the package but I got mad and didn't send them in again. Oh, and a $30 screw kit for my car was acually a $4 flywheel for a starter box!! Im going to order form the one and only place that has never messed up my order the best-in-the-bussnuiss *** www.stormerhobbies.com (http://www.stormerhobbies.com) *** :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

[Nairb]

Sheish, what's up with that?

How do you order? Through the internet, mail, or phone?

[XXXER]

Dang, sorry bout that rcracer, I once got the wrong body that i ordered, so they had me keep the one they screwed up on, and sent me out a new one, so i pocketed a new body, LOL

[Nairb]

Uh, oh. Guess who bought a XXX today? Hmm...it might take a while to get it ready to race, though. I need more money...

[SirSpeedy]

You need a stainless screw kit for that new car.

GetScrewed.

[Nairb]

Where do you get those, Tim? I'll check them out. I can't stand the steel black ones anymore. WAAAY too boring.

[XXXER]

Nairb, sure, put yourself in debt, come on, little more, wait, you stopped, oh, i see why, it is your limit that is stopping you, here, let me raise it....... :D

And along comes the Repo Depot....

[gacjr0]

Mcmastercarr.com has stainless and Ti screws for cheap. And lathe bits, and lots and lots of stuff.

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

After 2 weeks geuss what came??? The C2!! Its SWEET! The on/off switch is also the one touch setup. Not one wire coming out of the case (well, the plug for a CAP, THE HUGE CAP!) cause of the switch harness. It works GREAT!

Also I took my XXX for out for my 3rd run ever with a buggy and took 2nd in MOD. I would have got first but my stupid D4 got brush hang-up! I just pased first and STOP! I took a 15 sec pit stop got back in pased to PPL and took second. I even got it turned and new brushes! And the magnets seem to have lost some magnitizem. Im not going to buy any hand wound mods. Only Speed Jems cause they last a whole lot longer! Insted of a D4 11 I'll get a SG's 9. or 10. My XXX FLIES! Im running 23/84 WITH A ***STOCK*** MOTOR. And 20/84 WITH A **MOD**. Its fast but I was wondering with my mod should I put a 19 pinnon to run a little coller? THANKS!

[WhoKnowsWho]

I'm running a 20 tooth in my XXX now, and it seems to be cool enough (when it ain't 100 outside at least) Best way to find out is try both pinions and run some laps to see which is faster.

[Railman]

Hi Futaba, Hows the 23 x 84 gearing working out with the P2K?

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

Rail- REALLY GOOOD! Fastest stock buggy on the TRACK! And with 15 min runs (2400 mAh) the longest running. THANKS!

P.S. The mod is a 11 for anyone else wondering.

[XXXER]

rcracer, i am just glad that you are not only having luck with your XXX, but your new ESC also, i think i am going to have to get it now :D

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

I fell rich now, I got a Novak C2, a XXX, and a Futaba 3PDF. Also I will be getting 3 race packs for my XXX. And hopefully a P2K. The XXX is used and I got it for 150 I got the 3PDF for 155 from ebay with 3 differnt freq, the C2 (its in my pride-and-joy truck though) for 144, and the batteries will be 50 each so every thing I got for my bday is 150. But I did save for 2 months to get my C2 so thats not for my Bday and my mom let me take 150 out of my savings account for the radio. MY Bday is this weekend and geuss what I git to do! NOTHING my brother gets to go race MX. What a life. I should get this weekend to my self and go racing but NO! It makes me MAD!

Neight

[R/Cbum4life]

Hey here's the deal, I have had a xxx for about two months. I was running a firehawk in it and it did fine but now that i upgraded to a 16 turn speed gems (great for zippiing around in the streets) I seem to have lost all on and off power steering. I also am wondering if it might be the tires (brand new proline street hawgs on the front and back). Are these not hooking up on the pavement or what? How do I get more steering? And what should I gear it at with the 16 turn? :confused:
Thanks!

[XXXER]

The gearing ? is out of my league, but i found that you could get a ton of on-power steering when putting the front shocks onto the outside hole on the front shock tower.

As for the tires, are they in XTR or M2 compound? That could be the problem, and you could try going to a stiffer spring out back like a red, or orange, that might help it having the back end squat less when turning

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

Nick-- I just bught my XXX and it seemed to have less on and off power steering than my XXXT. I have a faily good servo in it to. What I did is bought a $7 front wing kit. It really helped expecially in high speed turns. XXXER's front shocks location also works, I would do that before anything else. :) :)

As for gearing, what spur gear do u have? If you dont know the teeth what color is it?

Neight

[ 05-17-2001: Message edited by: rcracer_xxxt_futaba ]

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

I just got my Futaba 3PDF radio today. ITS SWEET! And really easy to program. I have the 3 model memory full with my XXXT, XXX, and RC10 GT. Since I bought a 2PEKA FM radio for my XXXT I have an extra Rx. Thats acually in my XXX and I have a novak XXL in my 3XT. I bought the radio used and got anouther Rx and 3 sets of crystals. Now I have the lardge 113F Rx in my GT (came with the 3PDF) and the much smaller 123F in my XXX (came with the 2PEKA magnum jr. FM) and the Novak XXL in my 3XT. I didn't plan this out! Now I will use the 3PDF for racing the 3X and 3XT and the 2PEKA for if my bro wants to drive against me.

I haven't tryed it in the 3X cause a bearing in the trans blem up! :mad: :mad:

Its cool cause now I have 5 differnt fequncys! 61, 85, 87, 88, and 90. I used to only have one. But I thought 61 was messed up so I got 87. The I got the rest with the 3PDF. And almost every time I would go race I would have to borrow a freq. No any more!

Neight

[R/Cbum4life]

Front wing kit what is that and how does it work? thanks for the other advice. I run a yellow gear.
-Nicholas------_/) optisailor2022@hotmail.com

[Railman]

Nicolas, There a good chance that your dif may need to be re-done. I believe the street tires are a smaller diameter than the offroad tires & what happens is they make a stiff diff even stiffer, due to the smaller diameter tires. A smooth, & free diff is a must for a buggy to turn, much more so than a truck. How long has it been since the diff was re-done...or how many runs/packs? Does it feel stiff & crunchy when you turn one wheel & the other turns backwards (motor shouldn't turn to test). Let us know.

[Nairb]

Just so you know, the front wing won't do much for ya until you get up to a high speed (say, 20+ mph).

[R/Cbum4life]

Hey thats what I was wondering about when I was working on it last night. I am yet to redo it since I have owned the car. And it has a ton of time on it. The tire size is not different. (I checked) If the diff needs to be fixed I will need a new locknut correct? What are some signs of wear on the diff? Do the balls get worn down? Is it natural to be kinda of notchy?

Thanks,
Nicholas-------_/)

[XXXER]

You should see a groove around the rings, and the ballls should be smooth, also, you may want to check the thrust bearing, i have seen a few washers detonate, and it gets ugly, you will need to replace the lock nut, and ballls, flip the rings over to the other side, and use them again. And remember, you cannot get too liberal with the grease

[Railman]

Nicolas, There is an excelent thread on trinity tech talk site (www teamtrinity with dots & com) on "how do I get a smooth dif"... good stuff. Too much to list here. The most important thing is to redo the thrust bearing also.

[Oyster]

Hey all, just moved into my new place, and got everything (almost) setup! Now in the same room as the computer, I have my work bench with all my RC stuff. Very cool indeed.
http://members.aol.com/boostedomni/bench.jpg

Seems the hot topic is building diffs. When in doubt, get out the XXX manual. I do a couple things different, but it's pretty much by the book. Notchy and scratchy feelings are either the dif rings, or dirty thrusts. Both can be checked for wear, like XXXer said, look for deep wear rings in the diff and thrust "washers". Both are cheap to replace, so order two. One thing I do different is the lube. I use either Losi diff lube or Losi Teflon assembly lube, and use just enough to cover the ball. I leave the rings dry. The reason for this, when I'd clean the diff gear, I kept getting a build up on the gear where it's thrown during motion. That's just waste. So, I put less on now. Diff is still smooth as can be. That's also a little less rotating mass. :)

- Jon

[ 05-19-2001: Message edited by: Oyster ]

[XXXER]

Oyst, good to see you back pal, have you started racing yet? How have you been doing?

[Oyster]

XXXer, I'll be racing soon. With the recent move, I've had to spend ever so important battery money. So, I have to save again. Been woring with my XXX though. Practicing like mad, and learning all I can. From what I see at my "local" track, (200 miles away), I shouldn't have a major problem getting some trophies. :)

Hows the racing on your end? Shoot me off an email before long.. haven't heard from ya for awhile.

- Jon

[XXXER]

Still treating me pretty good, i am still running stock buggy, and constantly getting better, i have been in the A-Main quite a few times, took fourth, so stinkin' close to third, less than 1 second, but just enough. Last week i won the B-Main, but it was an ugly race, i am surprised i did that even, i wrecked every single lap, it was nasty!

[Oyster]

Ouch man. We'll see how good I do against the locals. Either way, I'm sure I'll have a dandy time.

Was just out trying out a hard surface setup. Must find more places to practice off road. Need a local track BAD! :)

- Jon

[Nairb]

Man, the front body clip location is too cumbersome... I took off the nub with a dremel and now I use velcro there; I suggest you do the same, because it's easier to deal with, holds well enough, and keeps you from drilling another hole in your body. :)

[Oyster]

I just grabbed the body pin with pliers, and bent them 90 degrees. Now it slides in and out easy. Same with the wing mounts.

- Jon

[XXXER]

I did what oyster did, no problems here, you can run the XXX body with no clips if you'd like to, that thing just sticks on now matter what.

I did not bend the wing clips though, never really take that off.

[R/Cbum4life]

Could someone please tell me what a thrust bearing is? I'm new to this!
-Nicholas-------_/)

[Aussie_Man]

The thrust bearing is the little bunch of 5/64th of an inch balls between the 2 thrust washers in 1 of the outdrives. Have in look in the instructions for a good picture.
Oyster, I tried some of your setups the other and they seemed pretty good, allthough it was hard to notice the differences because it was a fairly damp cold day.

[Aussie_Man]

And has anyhere used a Orion Chrome stock motor before? I just bought 1 and need some suggestions on gearing for a fair size track that I usually get about 12laps in 5min. (thats with a johnson 540 motor) Who has used 1 of these as well as any other re-buildable stock motor. How well do these go against P2K's, or MVP's and the GM3?
And I've been hearing about a stock motor that is a 'factory race motor' (yokomo based) and has more torque than any other motor and more rpm's than the GM3. Does anyone know who makes this motor or anything about it?

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

A_man-- I have my Crome stock geared 84/23. I have tried 83/23, 84/22, and 83/22. I like 84/23 the best. BUT the P2K is much much faster than the Crome. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :D :D :p :p

[Oyster]

Aussie Man, glad you liked the setups. They certainly won't be THE setup for the XXX, since there isn't one. But, I hope they give you something to work with. They are for my driving style, but... you know the rest.

Diffs - I have been experimenting with a different grease for the thrust, and diff. The stock diff lube isn't bad at all, it's slick, and doesn't move much. The teflon lube is terrible. It's not even really suited for the thrust. Too light, which allows it to push out, collecting dirt. I am now using a Grade 2 Lithium grease, which is made for automotive bearings and such. So far so good, this stuff is high temp (350F) so it won't thin on ya like some diff lubes. My diff is smooth as silk right now, no crunch, or inconsistant behavior. Exactly what I was looking for. If anyone is interested in it, I'll get a number for ya. That's all the news right now, unless you all want to hear about how to make the outdrive bearings last 5 times as long between cleanings, and have less drag. :)

- Jon

[Nairb]

Actually, I've found that my Orion Chrome Stock RS is faster than my P2K Pro in my truck at the same gearing. I suggest you gear it similar to a P2K; maybe 82/23 or so...

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

I think I got a bad Orion cause I had a Peak Spitfire and it was pretty fast, as fast as my P2K, and its the same motor. My P2K is faster than alot of motors. Two of my friends are running the same gearing with thier MVP's and GM3's but mines still a little faster. They said that the gearing that they run is the fastest out of all the other gear ratio's they have tried. When I put the Orion in my truck, its really, really, REALLY slow. It was a whole lot slower when I first got it. I ran all kinds of differnt gearing. Mabey you'll have better luck with it :) And depending on your track you might want to suggest Mine (for a tight track) or Nairb's (for a little bigger). Or just try both of them mabey even try 83/23, that would be right in the middle of our opinions.

Good Luck!

Neight

[XXXER]

I gear mine 1-2 teeth lower than my P2K, usually only one, here is my review of my Spit fire that i gotREVIEW (http://www.rccaraction.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=001948)

I hope you like it. I plan on getting another P2K when funds allow

[Nairb]

What's this "No Pro motors in stock class" crap, Steve? I've never heard such a thing.

Just so you all know, my Chrome stock gets very hot just like my P2K at 18/88 gearing in my XXXT (Losi suggests 20/88). I still like it, though. I've used it instead of my P2K for a few race days now. I'm gonna have a friend dyno all my motors soon, though, and I'll see their numbers and compare.

[XXXER]

Ummm, brian i am not sure, did i write something like that in my review? I do not think so, I will be right back....

I will edit when i read it

Even after reading my review, i do not understand what you are saying, i think you are talking about i said 'There were no Dyno-Tuned motors in stock', meaning, if you take a closer look, West Valley Hobbies did not have any in at that time i bought my motor.

[ 05-22-2001: Message edited by: XXXER ]

[Nairb]

LOL! What a dummy! I'm so embarrased. It was worded just perfectly as to say you thought you couldn't use a "Pro" stock motor in stock class. DUH! My bad... :D I totally see what you were saying. Why don't you just shut me up with a big slap across the face with a trout? I deserve it... :D

[Nairb]

Never mind that last post of mine...

Steve, it was a joke! :p

[XXXER]

Sure........joke....*hack*coverup *cough*


A trout? More like a KIPPERED SNACK! lmbo.

[Aussie_Man]

Hey guys, who here has used a V12 with a stock motor? How do they go? What ESC'c do all guys here use? I have a GMSport which I love! LOL :)

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

I have a dually in my XXX and a C2 in my XXXT.

[ 05-24-2001: Message edited by: rcracer_xxxt_futaba ]

[XXXER]

I use the Peak SpitFire, and Novak Fusion(hey, gimme a break, i am a 16 year old bum with no cash, and my parents do not really buy me anything, except the occasional race fee).

The V12 is a very cool looking ESC, i have seen one in real life, at my Hobby Shop, and it is tiny! I do not know about the performance and such though.

BTW, next post hits 15 pages! I always miss it by one :rolleyes:

[Car_Head12]

ok now i am not very happy with losi, i got in my screws (to replace the buttonhead ones) and started building. Everything is going just dandy, then i get to the hinge pins, the hinge pins are too small! (part40) What? this is very weird, it barely fits through the arm... should i call losi... or what?

I am REALLY not happy with the quality of Losi right NOW, i hope they can prove otherwise.

Car Head

[Car_Head12]

I dont understand why it is so hard for people to be nice. I called losi, "oh Bill does that stuff and he will be back in fifteen minutes... yadda yadda" so i gave my phonenumber etc.

15min later... nothing
30min later... nothing
45min later... nothing
60min later... nothing

so i called and got the guy on the phone, wont do anything about it, its going to take four business days, which gets it to me on thursday, well laddy fricken dah isnt he nice, now i get to wait ANOTHER week because of there mistake, and they cant be bothered to be nice to the people that are buying their product. I dont see why it is so hard to be nice to people that are paying your salary.The ONLY nice people i have encontered is Horizon Hobby.

Car Head

now that im done with that... :mad: :mad: :mad:

[Car_Head12]

ok, now that my tantrum has settled down, im in heaven (BESDIDES that) my nice parts came today, JR XR2, and my Dually.BTW is there ne thing i can build in the meantime, i assume it is ok to build the tranny...???

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

yea u can build the trans. Now the hinge pins, part 40? OK. Are u putting the hinge Where the brace and bulk head are?
or are you putting it trough the spindel?
Neight
:)

[ 05-24-2001: Message edited by: rcracer_xxxt_futaba ]

[Car_Head12]

they gave me two REER hinge pins and no front hinge pins, and nope im not going through the spindel or ne thing like that, they jus plum gave me the wrong sizer and i want to smack them . im just going to build the tranny. thanx anyhoo :) ;)

[Oyster]

Carhead, same thing happened to me about the pins. Bill is a good guy and will hook you up. If you haven't talked to him yet, just have the part number(s) ready. The pins are just a little big longer, so it's easy to mistake them... not that it's an excuse.

YES, build the rest of the car and make sure everything is there. I had a couple things missing with my kit. Not sure why this was happening, but rest assured, Losi set it straight. It also shouldn't take long to get the parts to you.

- Jon

[Car_Head12]

maybe he wasnt having a good day because he sure was not happy...

[R/Cbum4life]

anthor question... When i took my diff apart i inspected the balls. The ones that pop in the gear looked normal but I noticed that the balls looked as if they were way to small. Is it possible that they are worn so much that the rings are not even making contact on the balls? And what is the right gearing for my xxx with a 16 turn?
Nicholas~~~~~~~~~~~_/)

[Oyster]

Carhead, Can't comment on his mood, but as long as you get your parts, it's all good. If you want, you might be able to order the right parts from Horizon and get em to your door faster than Losi. It all depends how much you wanna drive. Be sure to send it First Class mail, it's only 1.50 for shipping. Might as well pick up some springs too. :)

Nicolas, you must be talking about the thrust bearing. They ARE small. Really small. Could they wear that much, no. The washers would be worn out before you could ever wear a carbide ball. But, they are certainly small. Small enough to fit under a fingernail. :)

For a 16 turn, your manual will give you some suggestions... (24) but with a stock spur (82) I'd try a 22 or 23 and start there. Run it hard, and check the motor. Check for heat, and brush discoloration. If it's too hot, gear to a 20. If it's cold, and looks great, go for a 23 or 24. Take small steps, you don't wanna fry a motor.

- Jon

[R/Cbum4life]

No, I was talking about the diff balls not the thrust bearing balls. Anyways being the stupid idiot that I am I took my diff apart and started inspecting the gear. Little did I ever notice before but it is the gear itself that is messed up. The little places that the balls insert into were junked. The plastic looked as if the balls were not moving freely and it (hard to explain) torked the balls into the plastic. It looked as if the balls were pushed out of the wholes and then tightened onto the plastic creating little dimpled pieces of plastic sticking up. In the manual is says "insert the carbide diff balls...blah blah blah" I am wondering if it is a typo in the manual or if it really comes with carbide balls. It does not seem normal that losi would give away upgrade parts in the kit. Is this true or not?
Nicholas~~~~~~~~~~~~~~_/)

[Nairb]

I know exactly what happened. You had your diff set too loose and after running it and letting it slip, the gear got hot and soft and became ruined. You need to buy a new gear and rebuild it. Make sure you retighten it after the first couple of runs this time.

[Railman]

Make sure to clean your balls real well! Carbide that is. You need to get the plastic out of the carbide for the balls to grip the rings without having too much pressure on them. Most guys just blast them with motor spray. I like to put them in a film canister with some laquer thinner or acetone, & shake them for a bit. Then let them soak for a few minutes & then shake again. This seems to make a world of difference as too how tight the diff needs to be. Make sure to redo the thrust bearing as it's usually where the gritty feel comes from. Some guys use 3/32" loose balls to replace the stock thrust. Right Nairb? ;)

[Nairb]

Yep. ;) I got my funky lube this week [a whole freakin cartridge, caulking-gun-size :eek:], and I'll be rebuilding the whole diff with 3/32" balls & that funky grease in he thrust bearing on Monday. I think I'll take your advice about cleaning the balls. :)

[ 05-26-2001: Message edited by: Nairb ]

[XXXER]

The stock balls(is this ok for us to say that so much?) are steel, i think i will stick to steel, because of the longevity that they last, i may try ceramic, just to see what is the difference.

I am a total slack when it comes to maintenance.

[Car_Head12]

Railman- and i think my balls were clean seeing as they were just out of the package! :D ;)
I agree XXXER! can we refrain from "stock balls" sounds a little icky, almost makes me wanna upgrade to "after-market BALLS"

[Car_Head12]

[ 05-27-2001: Message edited by: Car_Head12 ]

[Oyster]

Carhead, I think you are re-living my XXX experience! First the front pins are too short, now the washer snapped. Same with me! I replaced it, and it hasn't had a problem since. 5 diff washers should be OK for now. I'd order some stuff anyway since you're going to drive the tires off this car, I'm sure. Here's some part numbers of things you'll need. :)

A-3099 - Thrust Assembly
A-3070 - Diff Rings
A-3078 - Diff Hardware

I'd also grab this stuff...

A-4126 - F&R Pivot blocks
A-9702 - F Graphite Arms
A-5128 - F Red Springs 2.5 rate
A-5129 - F Orange Springs 2.9 rate
A-5132 - F Green Springs 3.5 rate
A-5134 - F Blue Springs 3.8 rate
A-5150 - R Pink Springs 2.3 rate
A-5152 - R Red Springs 2.6 rate

If you have the XXXKE, you won't need the front a-arms listed above, nor will you need the pink rear or green fronts. However, you'll need the silver fronts (A-5130) and the yellow rears (A-5148), ... well, not NEED but it's handy to collect this stuff now.

Then you need different shock oils. But, that can wait. :) Let me know if you need anymore help.

- Jon

[Car_Head12]

*hit! I already ordered the stuff i needed! Oh well, is that stuff REALLY necessary, if it is ill make another order. Horizon doesnt allow you to add stuff onto your order, does it? oh well thanx for posting...

Car Head

[Car_Head12]

and i THINK im all set for now :D :rolleyes: :)
thanks again

[Railman]

Car Head, Actually the balls are covered with a grease when you get them. This is not what you want. It's worth the time to remove the packing (protectant covering) from the balls before assembly. That covering will make it more dificult for the balls to grip the rings. Just my $.02. However I've been there & done that & it does, without a doubt, make a difference.

[Oyster]

Carhead, is the other stuff really needed? No. Unless you want to tune it to many tracks. Or just learn how each rate changes things. I ordered that stuff to learn the tuning. In that way, it makes all the difference. Making the car do what you want it to do is the real fun.

I would, however, get the graphite front arms. I snapped mine quick. Since then I haven't hit anything hard enough to break em. Now when other people drive my car, I'm biting my nails, and each time someone else drives it, they run into something HARD. Haven't broken a-arms yet. I would also get the pivot blocks just to have on hand. I don't think it's worth it to buy the aluminum one Trinity makes. Not only can you get about 10 stockers for the price of an aluminum one, but the aluminum one adds weight to rear. Bad news.

Good luck on the new parts. From what I hear, it's good to use about 10 washers for the diff. That's what Matt Francis says... I don't have problems yet, but you'll have a bunch, so you may try it and tell us if theres a difference.

- Jon

[Car_Head12]

wow! i am el genioso! i busted a thrust washer and, oh BTW they only gave me 5 beveled washers instead of six, any ideas why i busted the washer? i was just tightening it up (the dif) and all the sudden it got real loose, and wouldnt tighten, so i took apart the diff and the one of the thrust washers was in 3 peices! LOL, now i have to buy somore thrust and beveled washers... hehe...

Car Head

[Car_Head12]

Railman- wait, so theres something over each individual ball that I should take off? (and by rings i assume you mean the thrust bearing washers?)

Oyster- eventually im sure ill get that stuff but for now i think im all set...

[Car_Head12]

hope this gets pg 16, come on come on...

anyhow-hrmmm that interesting why would it work better with more washers?

[ 05-28-2001: Message edited by: Car_Head12 ]

[SirSpeedy]

More washers will increase the spring tension.

I run ten on my electric and gas truck, eight in the 2wheel.

[Oyster]

Hey SirSpeedy, long time no see.

[Oyster]

Carhead, yeap you got that right. You're certainly in good shape with the stock setup. It's quite a car for sure. I can't remember if you said or not... but are you running the KE or the 'regular' Tri-x?

- Jon

[Car_Head12]

nah, im just running "the regular" 3x, the graphite doesnt look "I have to have that" good, but it looks ok. and also the cash :eek: :eek: lol

im thinking-i got a P2K, but it turns out that the track im running on is mostly long straits, right now im using (or going to be...) a 23tooth pinion, will that be fine or should i move up to a 24?

[XXXER]

Who knows, you tell us, whatever works, try them both. Also, I have gotten some graphite, and i have not had any problems. I have the Rear Shock Tower, and the chassis, i like them both, i would like to make the whole car graphite, only need a few more pieces. Plus, i am probably going to get a job at my LHS, BONUS! Can you say 'Discount'? :D

[Car_Head12]

I completely envy you, ehhhhh,no fair... also i have no problem with the graphite, its good stuff, just right now i dont really want ,nore do i have the mula to dish out.

[Oyster]

The graphite stuff is certainly pretty nice. All I have graphite at the moment is the front arms. They were a must. I may get the chassis but probably not much else. You'll notice the 'pro' guys running all graphite are adding weight to the front to get some steering back. I'll throw money at batteries and motors then go for graphite. We'll see. The biggest thing, learn how to drive it thru everything. Practice practice, then practice a little more. That'll win you races.

- Jon

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

My car keeps pushing a whole lot. When I turn the wheels it pushes a whole! lot! I can watch the front tires just plow through the dirt, going straight. Should I get some lead wieghts? I took the Hi-tec 925 (.08 transit time and 103 oz/.in of torque at 6.0v) out of my 3XT and droped it into my 3X and it still pushed. When I go around my sweeper at top speed it works fine. I think its the front wing. The only way to get around a 180º turn is to lock up the rear wheels, almost come to a complete stop then pin it so the tires spin the back around. It gets really annoing when the B3's come flying past me in the turns. Makes me think I should have got one.

My XXXT acually over steers (I fixed it with my radio) and I thought that was wierd considering there the same basic car design. But they do have much much larger wheels.

Anyone else have a pushing prob? Did u fix it? I was watching kinwald, and Adam Drake the last time I went to my LT. There cars would turn on a dime and wouldn't push at all. Adam Drakes setup is in RCCA I'll have to find the month, that issue has the other 3 setups.

P.S. my car is full graphite

[ 05-30-2001: Message edited by: rcracer_xxxt_futaba ]

[R/Cbum4life]

I have the same problem. I re-did the diff and that helped a little but it still isn't what i expect of it. Something that seemed to help a little was to move the front shocks to the outer holes.
-Nicholas~~~~~~~~~~_/)

[Car_Head12]

IF your car is ALL graphite that is a part of your problem (I THINK! :rolleyes: ). Oyster talked about how the pros were not using all graphite etc. in one of his previous posts. Try and shift some weight forward... hrmmmm.... maybe some one a little bit more experienced could add some input? (Oyst, Sir...)
Hope this kinda helps
BTW, DO you have the KE edition or the 'regular'?
Car Head

[ 05-30-2001: Message edited by: Car_Head12 ]

[Car_Head12]

oh, also try changing the front shock positions, I think moving them to the outside holes will result in more steering (?)

Come to think of it the first thing you should probably do is check to make sure your servo is correctly centered etc.

[XXXER]

If you are looking for more High Speed steering, put the Front Shock, on the tower, to the outer position, and for more agressive steering, put the Ball Stud location on the bulkhead to the outer most hole. In the rear, if you put the shocks out on the tower, you will give up low speed traction, for high speed cornering, but if you put it in, it will handle better with the low speed stuff. Your tire could just be plum worn out, my car did the same thing, then i got new tires, and it does great. Neight, your track looks a little rough, if it is not smooth, on the Bell Cranks, put them on the inner holes(I Think, it is different from stock location) And that fairs better throught the rough stuff.

[Oyster]

Weight is our enemy here. If it's a super tight track, it might work for ya, but anywhere you need to get going faster than the guy/gal behind you, adding weight will hurt. How many of you with a push problem are still using 30wt shock oil? Go lighter (20-25) and try that... get that nose digging.

Diff, the diff certainly makes a difference. Make sure it's just right. Read thru the manual if you need diff assistance.

The pro guys also know a rule some of us don't know. You only learn this thru paying attention, or racing full size autos. Slow down before the corner, nail the gas in the apex, and come out hard. You do it right, and you'll be up with the pro's. Practice... come up to a corner fast, slow down fast, start your corner, you'll "feel" the car push, then come back to you.. the instant the car starts to come back to you, nail the gas. You'll be amazed how fast you can nail corners.

As far as having to slide into a corner, practice that too. Don't be annoyed. Practice how to do it perfectly... you never know when you and a fellow racer need to shoot out of a corner. If you're neck and neck and he/she takes the outside and you're forced with the inside, slide that baby and shoot out before em.

Check out some of my setups, they are in the pages before this one. Some of the later ones are really geared towards a tight bumpy track where steering is very much needed. Good luck all...

- Jon

[SirSpeedy]

Try camber link 2-A in the rear. 3-A will give even more steering.

[Aussie_Man]

Do you guys rekon that the XXX KE would hanlde bandly due to all the graphit bits? I'm thinking on getting 1 of these soon instead of having to buy all the optional parts seperatly eg, ti turnbuckles, CVD's all that stuff. Plus it would probably be alot cheaper for me (over here) lol ;)

[Oyster]

Aussie, what's up man? :) The XXXKE should perform great! Don't get me wrong, the Graphite parts are awesome. I'm sure it won't HURT any performance. On certain tracks all graphite performs better than plastic....

- Jon

[Car_Head12]

hey guys-
could one of you give me the tuning basics? Like what dif. springs/shock oils effect, and also what changing the from the stock hole locations will do...
Thanks!

Car Head

[SirSpeedy]

Go to a good book store, and get a copy of "Tune To Win" by Carrol Shelby.

There are absolutely NO blanket statements that can be made about ANY adjustment on that car. It is a total package.

For example:

You can't say, moving the shock out on the tower will make the steering react more quickly. I will if the front of the car is too soft and lazy.....if the front is too stiff, and you are not transfering weight to the front, going out a hole with only make your problem worse........going softer is not always good either....you can develop a push by going too soft....too much weight transfer is absorbed by the front suspension, and not transmitted to the front tires.....

Did you understand any of that?

And of the books by Shelby, and there are a few by Unser Sr., but "Tune to Win" is very comprehensive...

[SirSpeedy]

The all-graphite car is stiffer, and will react faster to the track, and to your inputs.....you will only really notice this on high-bite, blue-groove surfaces. A plastic car will be a little easier to drive, do to flex.

I run an all plastic car, with only a graphite front nose piece, pivot plate, and rear tower.

Later...

[Oyster]

Execellent advice SirSpeedy. I must give credit to the man as well. Carroll Shelby has changed my life, indeed. One more thing I'd add to REALLY understand how to tune, and better understand the suspension.. study geometry. Carroll Shelby will certainly put it in a plain english way for sure. Driving an RC car get's easier to drive if you race the full scales. It's all logical after you understand it.

- Jon

[Aussie_Man]

Hey Oyst, I've been waiting for 4 weeks to race. Its been **** , LOL! We only get to race every 2 weeks. But I've been racing my TC3 lately which is going really well, (ecpt for all the hackers at the track). I qualified 3rd in pro-stock (my 2nd onroad meeting too, out of 19 people) and the first 2 mains I jumped up to 1st by the first corner then got t-boned and sent to the back of field (10th), the second main the same thing happened but I got hit buy EVERY car. Then in the last I got away to 1st for 10laps then the steering rack came lose. (major bummer) Finished 6th overall. I love offroad more now, not soo many hackers. :) Cya

[Oyster]

Aussie man, way to go! Sounds like you're doing great! Sorry you keep getting smacked around... just be thankful it's not your daily driver!! hehe Glad to hear you're racing as much as you can. Between work and getting settled into my new place, my racing schedule has taken an unwanted rest. :( I'll be back though!! Maybe we can all go down under and race the fames Aussie Man! :) Up for it, XXXer? I'll drive....

- Jon

[XXXER]

Oyst, you know it! I will drive, i got an AmphaCar, Not really, but that would be cool. Hey, if you want a pretty good site that i have found, about suspension and all this stuff can be found here, it is a really cool site, i have not read it in a while, but it is a great one! http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/techhelp/marc/car_handling.html

That is a good one.

[Oyster]

XXXer, hehehe, I was just thinking about the Amphacar when I wrote that... it'd take a while..for sure.

Thanks for the link! I'll be sure to check it out after work.

- Jon

[R/Cbum4life]

Hey oyster, you seem to know what you are talking about. When you said how many are running 30 wt. oil well guess what im one of them. SO my question is should I also change the back or just the front? 20 seems a little soft doesnt it? And lastly should I get some different spring rates?
-Nicholas~~~~~~~~~~_/)

[XXXER]

20Wt shock oil with have a quick bound(when the shaft goes up) and a stiffer spring will have a quicker rebound, when it goes back out) You need to find a happy median when changing around oils and springs, you want them to absorb the bumps well enough, and have the chassis settle down enough in time to get back on the gas.

BTW, if you have not noticed, here i am, once again, finishing up the last post of the page, i hate it when this happens, i think that nobody even reads this post.......

[Oyster]

Nicolas, Thanks! :) The reason for the 30wt comment was because that's what they send with the kit. It's pretty thick for offroad. XXXer had it pretty good... but oil not only effects the compression, but also rebound. After playing with different oils I found - at least on a rough track, 22.5 in the rear works great with the stock pistons. This allows the rear to soak up bumps and conform to the terrain better. The fronts I left a little stiffer (25-27.5) for better pack, and slower rebound. This way, if I'm forcing the front down (ie pushing weight to the front) it wouldn't be hitting the ground, or bouncing up too quick, which would throw weight to the rear too fast.

In (RWD) drag racing they use a 90/10 shock in the front. That's slow compression and very fast rebound. That way when they hit the gas, the shock allows the weight to move as fast as possible to the rear for traction. This applies to us, but we have a lot more to do. We have to tune for jumps, bumps, corners, and sometimes running over other cars. :)

For a smooth surface, I go for a stiffer spring and thicker oil. For rough surface, I'll go a lighter spring and lighter oil. Too light of oil and too stiff of a spring and you'll bounce around like a lowered Honda, or Tamiya Grasshopper. :)

Springs, the silvers are great, the yellows are also great. For more tuning I'd grab (and did) the Reds, Blues, and Oranges up front. For the rear, Pinks, Reds.

This is longwinded for sure... but there's so much to this it's hard to sum it up. I hope this helped a little. We haven't even started on this subject, nor have we covered the shock pistons! It just keeps going!

Here's a list of springs, it's a cheap way to get a lot of tuning. With these, grab some 22.5, 25-27.5 Losi Shock oil. More tuning!

A-5129 - F Orange Springs 2.9 rate
A-5132 - F Green Springs 3.5 rate
A-5134 - F Blue Springs 3.8 rate
A-5150 - R Pink Springs 2.3 rate
A-5152 - R Red Springs 2.6 rate

If you're running the XXXKE, replace the greens with silvers, and Pinks with Yellows.

Whew... I wrote too much!

- Jon

[Car_Head12]

I just did a quick little run outside on my street and it was zipping along at a NICE pace. BTW i got the parts from Losi and Horizon on thursday. Oyst, right now I only have the stock amount of washers in the diff (6?), because i wouldnt have anything to compare the other results to...

im gonna look in a bookstore sometime this week for that book...

Car Head

[Oyster]

Car Head, 6 washers should be fine and dandy. I'd get some 4-40 aluminum "mini nuts" as they call em, and replace the one in the diff about every other time. That should keep the diff consistant. You might try looking at amazon.com or bn.com for the book. Probably cheaper that way. Glad you're up and running. Once your car begins to wear in a little, it'll run better and better.

- Jon

[Oyster]

Since there's at least one person out there with a brand spankin new XXX.. here's a tranny tip. Charge a fresh battery, and install it in the car without tires on your bench. Hook a volt meter up to the MOTOR and set your radio (if you can) so you pull about 3 volts. With your allen wrench tighten the tranny screws up snug as always, then tighten a little more.. and then a little more. You'll notice the volts drop to about 2.7 2.8 or so. After a little time you'll notice the volts creeping up again, tighten a little more. Just enough to load the motor down. You don't want to overtighten... the aluminum will strip out. But you can snug it up real good.

Let it run about 10 mins.. keep an eye on your volt meter. Shut everything down, and loosen the tranny, and snug it back up where it's supposed to be. (Which is JUST snugged up) - You should now have a smoother running tranny, it should be worn in nice. How much difference did this make? On mine, I went from 2.7 volts to 3.3 volts. Freed up some horsepower.

Next time I'll write about how to keep the outdrive bearings cleaner and make em smoother at the same time. :)

- Jon

[Car_Head12]

Smith, Carrol Smith is his name, not Shelby... I just found the book on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0879380713/qid=991603612/sr=1-1/ref=sc_b_1/104-4028001-0445511

[SirSpeedy]

I must have the name of the book wrong then.

I am most definitely speaking of Carrol Shelby. Father of hte AC Cobra. Director of Ford Racing throughout the 60's.

[Car_Head12]

Oh well... I have no idea...
BTW I just read that post and it sounded a wee bitty evil so sry bout that...
Car Head

[Aussie_Man]

Hey Oyst, had another cool meeting yesterday (offroad). I was using 1 of your setups and the car was running pretty good. I still need to do a little tuning as I have run about 8sec faster over 5mins even with a slower motor. Qual 1st, finished 1st. :) Hope you had the same luck, cya!

[Oyster]

Aussie Man, Great Job! I'm glad I could help ya out... which setup was it anyway? I haven't posted one for awhile, I suppose I should.. :) Thanks for the update!

- Jon

[Car_Head12]

Time for my weekly purchase from Horizon, lol, I'm gonna get the springs, threadlock, and other misc. stuff... anything else I'm gonna need...

[Oyster]

Car Head, right on! You're turning into ME.. hehe. The springs are fun, it'll give you lots of different options. I'd pick up some 22.5wt and 25wt Losi shock oil as well. It helps as you get lighter spring rates.

- Jon

[n2o]

Hey guys.. I am about to buy a Losi XXX buggy from a friend. This will be my first Losi (first buggy). Anyone have some tips for me? This XXX is already put together, but I plan to re-build it all. What go-fast parts should I get right away to keep up? thanks

-n2o

[XXXER]

Aussie man, congrats firstly! That is awesome that you are becoming the Fast Guy at the track, i hope to one day be branded that, it would make me feel cool :cool:

Car Head, springs are fun, though you will probably never use anything stiffer than the red out back(I have still to find a use for them) But for the front, the only useless spring IMO is the blue, i have used green, silver, red, and orange. I strongly suggest the orange.

N20, Titanium Tie Rods, And Titanium Ball Studs for the rear shocktower/bulkhead, i have found Losi Ball Studs to be the best, thought they are a buck! (9$ for 2 :eek: ) But, anyone else will break, Robinsons will, Lunsfords will, HG will..... ETC.

Tuning parts, that is where it is at, those are the only way to fly, In my opinion, Tires, are the best, this car does not need much hop-ups, but spend your money on Batteries, or Motors.

[Car_Head12]

speaking of batteries... :D :eek: i wanna get some fairly cheep (40-60$) bats for racing... any ideas... i was looking at the maxx paxx but i not so sure about them... :eek:

[Oyster]

n2o, like you said, rebuild it, and make sure all the parts are good. Like XXXer said, go for some titanium rods. As far as "go fast" parts... don't worry about it. Buy good batteries, and motors and learn all you can. Excellent control will ALWAYS win over go fast parts. Like you plan on, take everything apart and put the parts out in little piles.. like front end parts, then rear end parts, then tranny parts, and so on... check for wear with everything while you put it back together. Pivots, arms, gears and so on will wear the fastest. Bearings as well, you may need to purchase some. Clean everything well... but I'm sure you know all this. :)

- Jon

[Oyster]

Car Head, batteries... check out the Duratrax and Dynamite batteries. I, myself would only buy Sanyo cells from them. Not to say the Panasonics aren't good, but I don't think the two above companys carry Pana's. Anyway, *I* don't feel you need the "high end" batteries to win races. *I* believe the people that practice and tune to the max, and alas drive to the max could beat up on a lot of "pro's" without the "high end" batteries. I don't know how good they are, but I hear these guys cell good batteries...
http://sjslhill.hypermart.net/cells/2400.htm

They carry 2400 Sanyos for 5.25 per cell (and up). That's 31.50 per pack... not bad!

- Jon

[Car_Head12]

oyster, was the "cell" pun intended? :D :rolleyes:
yeah all i have right NOW are Dyna 1500's and they work good. But i figured i would try something else...

[Oyster]

Car Head, hehehe, I didn't even see that. All this cell talk made my brain cells go cell crazy! :) I also own a Dyn-1500... these batteries are tough for sure. But, I only get 5 mins with my 12 turn. A GOOD 2000 will give me about 6-7, but those 2400's look like the ticket!

- Jon

[Car_Head12]

lol, for some reason i get like *20* min with the P2K! :eek: anything i can do to burn up someore energy to get somore speed? seeing as i dont think there are 20 min mains... :D :eek: :rolleyes:
well im expecting the stuff on friday, but seeing as i have finals next week... oh... s**** that idea... im gonna use the stuff first thing friday!!! :D

[Oyster]

Car Head, 20 mins!? Wow! With 3000's you should be able to drive for days!! hehe. Good luck Friday, hope your stuff get's here!

- Jon

[Car_Head12]

yeah, I did some pretty wack stuff to one of my Dyna1500's. I charged it fully, used it for about ten mins in my car (not the xxx) then took it out and let it sit for two weeks. Then i charged it up, and it took almost twice the normal time of charging than my other Dyna1500. Now it has really nice capacity/runtime. Unless i was just high off tire glue i think thats what i did... :eek: :D :cool:

XXXER, yeah sounds like a good idea to me...
BTW i am running a 23 pinion

[Car_Head12]

about the body- it sticks on even WITHOUT the clips is it okay if i dont use the clips while racing? i have enough troubles getting it off without the body clips on... lol
Car Head

[XXXER]

CarHead, sounds like you need to gear up, try one more tooth on your pinion, mine will last for 10 minutes+ when i am even driving like i stole it, I love 2400's, they are awesome, exceot for one pack i have, it is a first gen 2400, has a whopping 1.08V/cell, which is incredibly weak.

So, I think I have my car dialed in pretty well, now i just need better equipment, since mine is all junk.

[Oyster]

Yeah from what I've seen, the body clips aren't needed in the rear. I always put one up front... but the two rears stick like glue.

- Jon

[Car_Head12]

OK, unless I was REALLY high or something and switched the locknuts on the shocks with the locknuts that go on the front wheels... I have found that the front shock lock-nuts work better on the wheel and vice versa, this is after I lost one of the front wheel nuts during some INSANE high speed passes...
BTW, turns out my order is coming on MONDAY, Doh!
Do any of you guys have the threaded shocks? Are they worth it? They look cool and it makes it somewhat easier to tune...
The teamlosi lightened motor plate looks like it going to be first on my list of hopups anything I should get before that?

Car Head

P.S. is everybody dead or something... talk to me here peeple!

:D :eek:

[Oyster]

Car Head, on the shocks, I use a small washer and the gold mini nuts that are used on the diff. Needed to do something with my left overs. :)

Threaded shocks... they look neat, but for the price they want for em, it's not EVEN worth it. I have thought about threading my own and then polishing them. That'd look tough, I think.

Lightened motor plate eh? I didn't see the need at all. I modified mine to use a smaller spur, then polished it to a mirror finish. I then decided to make it kinda swirly.. by running a 100 grit sandpaper over it in a swirl motion. Looks cool.

Hop ups. Lunsford ti-rods. If anything, I'd get that first! (which I did).. so much easier to adjust, and won't break... ok ok, if they break, Lunsford will replace them.

Other than all that, I'd just get extras.. like a set of pivot blocks, idler gears, diff gear, thrust bearing, diff rings... that will keep you running nice for a loooong time.

The XXX needs very little. It's a mean car to begin with.

- Jon

[Car_Head12]

LOL, but the motor plate looks so pretty and i was going to get a red one and... :D :eek: w/ever its all cool, i remember you saying something about gettin g the graphite arms?

[R/Cbum4life]

Well you guys are still on the topic of shocks here is a helpful tip if you run on the cement sometimes. With the shocks all mounted on in the front of the car and the locknuts tightened put anthor luck nut on the very end of the screw that holds the shock up. This way when you roll over and go skidding across the pavement in circles the threads won't be damaged the locknuts will take the beating. If youy don't do this and skid it across the pavement enough it will become extremely hard to get the shocks off.
-Nicholas~~~~~~~~~~~_/)

[Oyster]

Car Head, don't get me wrong here. Buy all the motor plates you want! :) As far as the graphite front arms, I'd get em. I broke mine when I drove the car into a sidewalk at night. Yes yes, I was stupid... but everytime I let someone else drive my car, the front arms take abuse x 2. They have yet to snap on me. The rears are still stock, we'll see if I can snap one. :)

Nicolas, thanks for the tip. I can't use it though since I shortened every bolt I could. Saving weight turned into a project one night... it's amazing how much weight is hidden in the little screws and ball studs.

- Jon

[XXXER]

WOW! for once in the last some odd pages i did not finish it off! http://www.plauder-smilies.de/boldblue.gif Either way, my car is getting better, and i am learing better with it, I feel that my electrics, etc. are what are holding me back from the top spot in stock. I just feel i am getting outbought, that is all. You will all say, "90% driver, 10% car". I am all 90%, not it is time for that other 10%, I am going to work this summer, and get the goods.

FYI: I got 4th in the A-Main this Wednesday, did i feel cool? YES I did. http://www.plauder-smilies.de/eek7.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.de/eek2.gif

[Car_Head12]

XXXER- what electrics are you running right now? so you got the job at the hobby store?

[XXXER]

The crap de la crap Futaba AM radio, without the functions i need, and a Novak Fusion ESC, the only thing that is Decent would be my motor, Peak Spitfire. My batteries are OK, need more though, i want to find a place wtih some 1700's.

I have yet to get the Job there, but i am going in tomorrow to see what is up, wish me luck http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[Car_Head12]

good luck! :rolleyes:

[XXXER]

Hey guys, i just ordered a rebuild kit for my shocks(bout time, i have never replaced them :rolleyes: ) But i also ordered the Aluminum Top Shaft, has anyone had experience with these? Do they help?

thanks.
-Steve

[Nairb]

The aluminum top shaft & machined gear are awesome. I totally recommend it. When you get yours, hold it in one hand and the stock one in the other and you will see the HUGE weight difference. It's amazing! That's gotta make a huge difference, because it's a big part of the drivetrain. I never really drove my truck before I got my lightened top shaft, so I can't compare. My new buggy is still waiting for its aluminum top shaft & gear, and it's definitely going to get it.

[XXXER]

Right on, Glad to know it will help, My guess is it would be a big deal in my buggy, with the smaller tires, that it is able to spool up faster. So, it has a Machined gear that is lighter also? Bonus! I checked to see if i still had the required spacer, I lucked out, it is in my tackle box o parts! It will be a while before i get mine, buit hey, no biggie, they are sending out their order Friday, and they will get the order the friday after.

My shocks have held out this long, they can wait for 1 1/2 weeks more.

[Oyster]

Steve.. I'm jeolous!! hehe, I've been drooling over the aluminum top shaft. I'm a boring guy if I drool over that... anyway, 11 grams stock, 5 grams for the aluminum one... at least that's according to RCCA... if I have the numbers right. Anyway, that's good news, especially for stock class. I'll get one sooner or later. Be sure to tell us all about it when you get it, from the time you woke up to when the US mail person is. Or... UPS FedEx... hehe

- Jon

[XXXER]

Oyst man, you are one crazy nut! Either way, i ordered through my LHS, they do not have any in stock(surprise surprise) The only losi parts they have there date back the the Jr T http://www.plauder-smilies.de/eek7.gif But who cares, i may not be paying full price for them...I may get a DISCOUNT! WooHoo! I got back from my job interview at the hobby shop, and lets just say things went pretty well, i preppied myself up(well, i always do, i hate looking like White Trash!) And i had the first interview of the day, lets just say, those 'other' guys are going to have a hard time stacking up to my resume, she told me repeatedly she was "Very Impressed" with my resume, so, i think i did good! I will find out on Friday if i got the job or not...i am so EXCITED!

The main reason i ordered the topshaft, was because it has been a loooong time since i have put any things not required, like, meaning, i did not break it http://www.plauder-smilies.de/brakelamp.gif So, it will be nice. Up next, will be Titanium, i know i have not broken any of the steel so far, but I think it is time i got them, Titanium is very Sexy. After that, i will attack the Equipment, Radio->Servo->ESC->anything else, spare motors, batteries, etc.

[bhiggy]

I just bought a used XXX and didn't get a manual with it. I've emailed Losi several times over the past few weeks and have yet to get a reply.

Any ideas where I might be able to get one??

TIA

[Nairb]

I ordered a very trick part for my XXX yesterday. (Man, I have never driven the thing, but I'm STILL hopping it up! LOL!) It's tres chic et tres SEXY! It's a set of Lunsford titanium stub axles for the front. Screw the stock aluminum ones, these are the stuff! Besides those, I'm also getting a few long TiScruz to supplement my stainless screw set from SirSpeedy.

This baby is gonna be all pimped out before I even drive it! :D

[XXXER]

Brian, where did you get them from? I have seen them on Jerrits car, and they are absolutely P I M P! How much do they run for? I have seen the Aluminum ones break before, good thing that you got the goods. They are very good lookin.

BHigg, I cannot find my parts sheet(the yellow one) So i cannot find the part number for you at this specific moment, i will try to find it, never mind, i remembered where it is, lemme see if it is on here...
It does not look like it is on here, but here is the phone #, i have noticed that they are terrible with Customer Service in the e-mail department, their phone number is: 909-465-9728 they are a lot better with phone.

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

I think Stormer hobbies.com has them.

[Nairb]

I ordered mine straight from Barb Lunsford by e-mail. They were $26.95 I hope they come today!

[Oyster]

Howdy all, I haven't been here in a couple days. Anyway, for all those interested, here's my "standard setup" - This is the setup I start with, then tune as needed. If anyone tries it, tell me what you think!

- Jon

My Standard Setup (http://members.aol.com/boostedomni/standard.jpg)

[ 06-16-2001: Message edited by: Oyster ]

[n2o]

Sup guys?? I just got my XXX Kinwald Edition last night. Cant wait to start putting it together! I also got a ton of mods with it (RPM stuff wheels and sorts).

Any tips before I start?? Has anyone used the 'out of the box' setup? I guess I'll give that setup a try and see how I like it.

-n2o

[Oyster]

My only tips are, take your time, and make sure all the parts are there. Then you'll also want to trade me your graphite chassis for my stock "plastic" one. Yes, that's what you want to do. (Jedi mind trick) Didn't work eh? Well, just the first two tips then.

- Jon

[XXXER]

Tips? The car basically puts itself together, while you watch, and pay attention!

This is my only tip, do NOT start building without a set of High Quality hex wrenches, and thread EVERY piece, and do not just use that cheap little gold tap screw they give you, in some places, it is not long enough. With those graphite pieces, it is harder to screw in, etc.

BTW, guess who got a job at my hobby shop! http://www.plauder-smilies.de/bouncered.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.de/party/dance2.gif

[ 06-18-2001: Message edited by: XXXER ]

[Oyster]

Steve, did ya get it? Tell us all about it now... what are ya gonna be doing?

- Jon

[n2o]

Any of you guys from Texas in the Houston area?? Also, does the XXX need a high torque high speed steering servo?

-n2o

[XXXER]

Oyst, I start today, I will be doing it all, Planes, cars, boats, pretty much everything RC, so i am going to take the MAN and RCBM's from there, and start reading up, so i know what i am talking about when i am suggesting kits, etc. I will be fixing cars(that is right, people bring in their RC's and pay us to find out what is wrong, and fix them) I got a shirt :p and I will be looking into Slot Car things, the slots are not required, but they look so cool, i am going to have to get into those! I will be doing pretty much everything but the register, so that is pretty cool, eh? My order comes in this Friday, so we will see what kind of discount(if any) I get!

I cannot wait!

n20, it is not required, but i absolutely, strongly reccomend it, why run Regular in a Premium car? I am actually using a standard right now, and I hate it, i am replacing it as soon as i can replace my remote.

Hitec makes great, and cheap digital ones, but if hte cash flow allows, get the Airtronics 94357, that is the best out there on teh market.

[Oyster]

Congrats Steve. What a job! If you get a discount, that's an added bonus!

On another topic, I almost got my XXX back together. Took it apart for the annual check out, and also added the yellow ball cups, and bumper/motor guard. I dyed em green, and also "anodized" my lunsford ti-rods gold. Looks pretty cool! :) Along with all that, I also got the esc more dialed in with the Novak Software link I bought. It's coming together! :)

- Jon

[n2o]

sup guys?? Started putting mu XXX KE together last night. I worked on it for 2 hours and only got the front end put together! haha.. there are a heck of a lot more parts in thie triple X than in my GT. I have a Futaba S9404 servo in my GT because the GT needs a lot of torque to turn those big wheels under power. I just looked it up on Futabas web site and it doesnt say "High Speed".. But it's a heck of a lot faster than the servo that came with my M8. I guess I'll look into that Airtronics high speed servo for my XXX. But I want to make sure I have enough torque WITH speed to turn the wheels all the way under power.

-n2o

[R/Cbum4life]

Hey Oyster here's a question for you... You said you anodized your tie rods. How did you do this and what colors are possible?

[Oyster]

Steve, check out the setup sheets I've made... it'll explain exactly what the 3-b or 2-a and all that means.

Nicholas, I only tried one way and got Gold. I don't know what other colors are possible... but here's how I did mine. You'll need... 2 nine volt batteries (or a power supply set to 18 volts), a clear cup (plastic or glass), some Lysol all purpose cleaner. It's in a spray bottle, and is bright yellow (lemon scented), Three test leads, and a stainless allen head wrench ( at least the size of the ti-rod).

Hook the nine volts in series, hook the allen wrench (cathode) to the NEG lead, and the ti-rod (anode) to the POS lead. Dip the wrench (NEG) into the solution. Then dip the ti-rod. If you filled it enough, you'll be able to dip the whole thing in. Just don't let them touch, of course. You'll know it's working by the bubbles coming off the allen wrench. Let it sit for about 3 mins, and you'll have a gold ti-rod. I tried different times, and found that 3 mins was about right. After about 7-8 mins it'll "burn" holes in the titanium.

I'm sure you can try different solutions for different colors. I just don't know THAT much about it, so this is all I can comment on. Side note... I wouldn't breathe in above the reacting chemicals. I'm no doctor, but that can't be good! :)

Good luck!

- Jon

[SirSpeedy]

Good place to start:

Frt: 30wt, 55, Orange, .030" limiter, #2-middle, link 3-b w/2 washers, Spindles down and narrow, arms level.

RR: 25wt, 56, Pink, #3-outside, link 2-b, hubs forward, 2deg A/S, steel outdrives, Losi bones, bones level, battery forward.

Later....

[R/Cbum4life]

Thanks for the help Oyster. The guys at the hobby shop were talking about doing that one day this guy did it to his t-maxx turnbuckles which was totally hoped up but anyway i don't know how he did it but he turned his green. I'll ask around next time im there and if I fund anything out I'll let you know.

[XXXER]

Oyster, SWEET!

i get 30% off of their price(usually MSRP) of smaller parts, and on whole kits, i pay 10% of what they get them for(that calculates to, ohhhh, dirt cheap i think :D )

Also, SIRSPEEDY!!!!!! I need your help! I lost your High Bite setup for the XXX, if you read this, HELP ME! I am tired of the same old set up on my car, i know it can be better, but i do not know how. Brian said your truck set-up rules! So i am going to give your's a try today, if i can get a hold of you in time.

If you could, instead of Camber link 3-b etc, I do not know what that means, so just say, like, rear bulkhead, middle hole<----that makes much more sense to me.

Thanks!

[Nairb]

n2o, high speed is more important than high torque in a buggy. As Steve said, the Airtronics 94357 is the ultimate servo. I use one in my truck and I LOVE IT TO DEATH! Standard servos just don't cut it.

[Nairb]

I forgot the rest of my reply...

Steve, you could e-mail SirS; he'll surely get that and reply fast. Also, are you REALLY racing tonight? Your discount sounds pretty good, but I think you're confused on the kit discount. I bet it's cost + 10% or something like that. I'm sure you'll tell me when you find out, and I'm looking forward to that discount, too. :D

[ 06-20-2001: Message edited by: Nairb ]

[Oyster]

I was hoping for green, actually. Perhaps the voltage makes the difference like I've read. I'm sure it also depends on the solution, and perhaps the size of the cathode. ?? I'll have to ask some people in the know.

- Jon

[n2o]

Sup guys?? I am almost done with my XXX KE. Just a few things left to do. But I do have one question. Can someone tell me about bleeding shocks?? I have them set up pretty good now. But when you lay the car on it's side, you can sometimes hear air when you compress the shock. But the only way to make it not do that at all is if you add enough oil that you cant compress the shock all the way in.

-n2o

[Oyster]

n2o, Here's the process I go thru for my shocks - Fill to the bottom of threads, insert seals and shaft/piston assem. with the shaft pushed it about a half inch. Slowly let oil seep around the piston. Put towel around shock, slowly screw in the assembly. Some oil will come out, along with air bubbles. Snug up the assembly, and get your wrench on it. Put a screwdriver thru the top mounting hole, and cover again with rag. Slowly push in on the shaft to let the oil bleed... when you get to the end of the shaft, ie all the way in, keep down force on the shaft while you tighten. Repeat 3 times. :)

If you don't keep some downforce of the shaft, it can **** in air. Perhaps this is where you get some air. Remember, no matter what, you HAVE to have air in there. That's why it's a good idea to bleed your shocks at the track. (Unless it's a nice AC building) because of different pressures at different temps. Craftsman (sears) makes a killer little wrench assortment. It's PERFECT for RC.

Make sure they all rebound the same, and all of them bottom out when you force em too. If one has some pressure at the end of the stroke, and the rest don't, you can expect some funky handling when you hit the jumps, bumps and so on.

Good luck! If you need more help, you know where it is!

- Jon

[n2o]

Oyster, thanks a lot for the help! I have been asking a lot of people about shocks and noone had the right answer. One other question I had though was about the rebound.

I tried what you said about tightening it with the shock compressed all the way in. But when I did that, it would want to pull the shock back in after you pull it out. I would think you would want it the other way around. Also, should you ever hear air bubbles when you compress the shock all the way in? And when you bleed, does the shock have to go in all the way to the tip that bolts onto the A arm? thanks

-Jeremy

[Oyster]

n2o, If you create a vacuum, it will pull the shaft in. Keep pressure on the shaft when you tighten it finally, after bleeding. It'll push out just a bit. You should not hear any bubbles when you push the shock in on the car. It should sound (and feel) smooth as silk.

As far as your bleeding question, the shock shaft should go as far as it can. The fronts won't bottom, but the rears will. If you have any outside limiters, it should bottom agaisnt that.

Make sure all the shocks react the same before you install springs.

- Jon

[Oyster]

racerman333, For the XXX, no. That'd be my bet anyway. They already have their Kinwald car... As far as the XXXT, Probably a good chance. I've heard rumors....

- Jon

[racerman333]

is there going to be a francis edition of the xxx, or a XXXT KE??? :confused:

[XXXER]

Actually, it was too late before i got the set-up, but i ran one very close to yours, here was mine.
It did not work well, for some reason, the guys slacked off, and did a crappy job on the track, it was rutted, dry, and clumpy.

Front:55, 30Wt, Silver, 2A, middle, middle.

Rear:56, 25, Yellow, 2A, outside mount on arm, second out on shock tower, hubs centered, 0* A/S.

It did not work well, so, I will probably not race again until we get a new track in, unless i go to Vision to race.

Either way, i did totally terrible, besides the guy that pulled off before the race started(the TQ even..) So I did what anyone else would do, see how long i could keep it pinned! Ended up catching the top of the lip of the double off of the table, and snapped my right front COMPLETELY off.

No biggie, ball cups popped off, and a broken Susp. arm. :eek:
But, i get to go get my order at work today, WooHoo! You jealous yet Oyst? :p

[Aussie_Man]

Hi guys, Oyst, I had a bad day today. Qualified 4th and finished 4th. But on the last corner of the last final I was in 4th (very close behind 3rd and would of passed him) so this guy cuts about 30mt (90ft) of the track and won. Had alot of problems setting the car up today and finding a gear ratio. Hope you guys did better ;)

[Oyster]

Steve, jeolous? Matters what you ordered... hope you ordered an a-arm or two. :) Tough luck at the track, but... you'll be back to race again.

Aussie! Tough luck for you too eh? Give it too em next time. Try to remember how hot the motor was, that'll help for gearing... try to remember what to car acted like thru turns (on and off throttle) and in the jumps and bumps. It'll make it a snap to set it up after that.

Other racing news, I gotta run up to Tacoma Raceway this Monday. It's one place to race in the Northwest, not the closest, (2 hour at least) but it's racing! :)

- Jon

[XXXER]

It was my shock cartridges and lightweight topshaft, and let me tell you, not only does it look cooler than the other, it is just one solid piece, and very precise, I have not run it yet, or spun it up, but i will soon. I made another order for some Graphite front A-Arms, so that will be cool, i will get those this Friday, and of course i will be back to racing, just not this track layout probably, it will be good for me, so i can up-grade my car, and come back with a vengeance, Lunsford Ti's are coming up next, along with a new set of Ball Cups, when i get the cash that is, of course. I realized after that crash, that everything on my car, really needs a rebuild, especially the Hinge Pins, they are not binding yet, but they are getting rusty :confused: I do not know why either, i have not run it in the snow, etc.

My outdrives are wearing, so i am going to look into some molded ones, with Ti outdrive savers, and Losi Al universals.

Remote, then a servo, then a new ESC, then all the other goodies that come after that, like, maybe an FM receiver, though i will go with the XXtra, because i am going to get the MultiPlex radio, which only uses Multiplex crystals in it, so i will only have to buy one type, and one receiver, which sounds nice to me :)

I have not lost the enjoyment of racing, it is just my car has lost the race in it, so i will be rebuilding her for a while. The shock rebuild is just what it needed, it gave it that soak-up feel it had when it was new.

[doublet]

Okay I need help with my xxx. What do I do when I need to increase rear traction even with the best tire set? When the track is drier my rear end is a little too squirrely and I have tried every possible tire and none can change it. Thanks in advance :)

[Oyster]

doublet, how is the rear squirlly? Are we talking foward traction or side traction? Here's some things to try on both... more forward, take shims out of pivot block, slightly lighter rear shock oil (20-25), pink springs mounted 2top outside arm. Camber link 2-b - 0 degrees. Bones level or just below. For more side... put shims back under pivot block, run yellow springs, 3 on tower, inside on arm. Camber link 1b - set at 1-2 degrees. Bones Level or just below.

Tires make a HUGE difference. I'm not sure what your track is like (dry...?) but the IFMAR Studs (red) I've tried on just about anything and it's torn the ground up. Even on hard dry... rooster tail. You might try some if you haven't.

Other things to try. Loosen slipper and maybe the diff. Too tight of diff will cause you to skate all over the place thru the turns, same with too tight of slipper. Make sure your pivot block is in good shape.. a small crack will force the car to the side of the flexing. Check out all your links, make sure they move free... I'm sure you know all this... I just can't stop typing! Hope any of this helped. Good luck and let me know how you fix your problem.

- jon

[Oyster]

Steve, I should have responded to you first, huh? hehe. Yes yes, jeolous I am. However, I think I'll shoot off an order to Horizon for the top shaft here in a bit. I drove the car this morning, and the tranny is worn. Well, more to the point, the idler gear is noisy. It got a little dirt awhile ago and wore it premature. So, now it's just getting more noisy. I've been broke/lazy and haven't replaced it yet. But, I advise you do the same! If you haven't already... replace the idler and diff gear before you run that nice soft aluminum gear! :)

Rusty Hinge pins? Where are you storing your car? Next to the shower? hehe... How humid has it been in Utah this year? You may want to go for the Titaniums. No rust. Or, check yours close... you may be able to polish the rust off, if it's just surface rust. Otherwise, where you store it, open a box of baking soda next to it...?

Outdrives.. I haven't tried the moldeds, but I hear they wear out FAST! I thought about turning mine on the lathe, and make em lighter. If you get the moldeds though, tell us how long they last you.

Good luck with the rebuild. Just did mine a few nights ago, you always find SOMETHING to replace or change, or modify. It's all part of the fun. :) Good luck man... hope to hear you coming back racing soon!

- jon

[Car_Head12]

a few things i noticed while driving:
my front tires are wearing more than the rear ones, which seems a little bit odd to me... (???)
the big a bearings in the back (outdrive bearings?) get dirty REALLY quickly, anything i can cover them with?
im currently using NO body clips ('cept on the wing... duh!) and the body has not even come CLOSE to coming off.
the stock servo saver setting is horrendous, i loosened it 1 1/2 turns and it is a little better, but now i have to buy another servo horn... ugh.
its that time of the month again... (to place an order at Horizon...) :( :rolleyes: :eek: :D
CH

[XXXER]

My gears are fine, i do not nearly run it enough to wear them out much, i am not a weekly racer, more like a "few times a month", meaning, once or twice.

Nah, just in my pit box, i think it may be from washing my tires, and it getting there? :confused:

Also, for you needing the set-up help, Oyst is right, take out the shims for more forward bite, or, if you need even more, put them under the front of the pivot block. Moving your shock on the tower to the outside will give more high-speed traction, less low-speed(i.e., taking off at the start, and slower corners).

Your foams could be the problem, check to see if you are running the right stuff. Maybe you will want to try a traction sauce, Trinity Buggy Grip is awesome stuff, so is the Bomb one(forget what its exact name is).

I ordered my graphite front arms, they will be in this saturday. Next will be Ti stuff, and possibly CVD's or the AL bones. Still deciding. I have heard that the Molded ones are fine, as long as you run outdrive savers. Nairb ran them for a while on his XXXT, and liked them. I heard they give a little more push, but not bad. A new body should be on the way also, but again, who knows. It is all about equipment that makes the racer, you know what i mean?

[doublet]

Oyster- Its squirrly in the turns only. I guess its a side bite problem. I realized i never tried square fuzzies and its a hard packed dry track. Im also gonna try lightening the oil to 25. I already have the yellow springs on and the shock postions like you listed except the camber links position. Thanks for help.

[Oyster]

Car Head, First... your front tires are wearing out faster, MAYBE because of inncorrect toe. If they're toed in or out too much they'll just wear away. I took my XXX on an asphalt oval and the fronts wore a LOT... it was just wearing em down like an eraser on concrete. Doesn't take long.

Outdrive bearings. Oh, for awhile these things made me NUTS! I finally figured out a long term fix. You need regular paper.. I used yellow ( :) ) Smear it with a thin (see thru) coating of silicone. Then fold it over, so it's doubled with silicone inbetween it. Then when it sets up use a punch to punch em out. 3/4 for the outside, and 3/8 inside. If you don't have punches, find some! You want it close to perfect. Make a few, just in case they're not good. These will fit between the bearing and tranny housing on the outside of the bearing. They also ride agaisnt the outdrive, and will cause a little drag the first few packs you put thru it, but they wear in nicely. I have a BUNCH of packs on my current paper seals, and they are still awesome. But, do they seal? You betcha! I don't even run the seals on the bearings anymore, (most of em fell out) just the paper seals... and I don't get even a 1/4 of the dirt I used to.

I suggest, when you punch the seals, punch the 3/4 first... it makes it easier to center the 3/8. You can also clean them with electric cleaner... just let em sit for a second and they dry up fast. If you can't find a punch or anything, email me. We'll get you hooked up.

Body clips... I don't use the rears. Never have. Never will. The body holds tighter than a virg... nevermind.

Hope you get a new horn soon! Don't want any withdrawls!!

- Jon

[Oyster]

Steve, the only reason I say get some gears is because you've worn the idler, even after one run it wears, to the steel gear. It's kinda like putting a new chain on a motorcycle and leaving the sprocket alone. They both wear out faster than normal. Plus, if something happens you'll two spare idlers (they come in packs of 2), a spare diff gear and a spare steel upper shaft and gear. I'd just hate to see you wear that aluminum one out real fast! Idlers are 3.50 a pack, and diff is 2.50. That's cheap insurance. I just ordered all my stuff! Aluminum shaft, idlers, and a diff gear. 17.50... not bad, not Stevediscount great, but... not bad. :)

I would have to disagree with something you said though... about it all being the equipment that makes the racer... I'd have to say it's about 25%, 70% talent, and 5% luck!! :)

- Jon

[Oyster]

Doublet, check out the diff and slipper too! If you're spinning the inside wheel while turning, you'll get sideways everytime... no amount of sidebite will help you in that case. You want a nice smooth diff action. Otherwise, donuts and slides under power. Now if you're slipping OFF POWER, then it's a suspension problem or broken pivots. Hope to get you hooked to the ground!

- Jon

[n2o]

Sup guys?? I took my XXX KE to the track on sat for the first time. This buggy is awsome, the setup right out of the box was right on the money. I ran in the stock novice class because it was my first time racing (first time driving the buggy). I qualified 2nd and took 3rd in the race. I lead the race by more than half a lap and had lapped two of the slower guys. But since it was novice classs, they let the trucks drive with the buggys and 2 of the not so good truck drivers hit me at the same time and it took the corner guy 6 seconds to flip me over. But everything was great, I even had guys from the expert stock class ask me what my setup was because I was turning 21.2 second laps when some of the expert stock guys run 22 second laps! ;)

I am going to go back to the track this weekend maybe a little more prepaired. Last time I had a really sorry old Hobico 900 charger that you just twist the dial and wait 15min for.. HAHA.. It was the one I had 6 years ago when I had an RC10T.. I am going charger shoping today, any ideas? I am pretty sure I want the Novak Millennium charger. But I guess it doesnt have a discharge mode? I have some Sanyo 2400 cells. What do I need?? I am new to electric so any info it helpful.. thanks

-n2o

[doublet]

Oyster- checked my diff and slipper and they seem fine. Its off power when i slide. Thats why i was thinking i needed to try square fuzzies and change my suspension setup in the rear, sorta like what you suggested. Will try it out this weekend. Thanks

[n2o]

Try those new X-2000 tires. They came on my XXX KE and work great!

-n2o

[XXXER]

Oyst man, it is just that the car makes me the driver, give me a car, that is good, and new to me, let me drive it a pack, and i can do not too shabby with it! That is all, Wow, is it just me, or did my head get really big within the last few seconds?

My car is really holding me back, i have been doing well for what i have with it, but it is not enought, that is all, and i was really affected by one of my buddies, one of the "fast guys" who told me i better have that stuff if i want to run with the big boys, so, you know what that made me think! I am looking into running mod, So i will need all that stuff anyways, and i should have it for stock racing, as it is. I really want to boost my racing soon, and see how well i can do, with a loaded car. I figure i may as well take advantage of this, while i can(the discount).

I will take the gears into consideration, i have been meaning to rebuild my diff soon, i gave it a relube, and a cleaning after i put in my top shaft. May as well, since i am going through everything else.

I will talk to you all later.

[losifreak2004]

LOL @ n2o. The X-2000 is more than four years old!!! Brian Kinwlad used tehm to win the 1997 Worlds at The Ranch!!!

Steve, if you want a setup, tell me what track type you need it for, and I will get one for you from one of the Losi guys.

[Aussie_Man]

Oyst: those bearing things, do they sit between the diff outdrive and the tranny case? I saw a XX with covers that went over the outdrive and bearings. They were black and I never really found out what they were. What happens if they stick to the outdrive and spin on the tranny? Do you have a picture of this? Thanks

[Oyster]

Aussie, they do sit between the tranny case and the bearing. They are two pieces of paper thick, and roughly the same size as the bearing. They ride on the outdrive, but, the outdrive and bearing keep them from coming out. At first they are tight, but they wear down to the exact size they need to be after a couple runs.

I'll need a couple more beta testers for this, as I plan on selling them. If you're interested, contact me via email. :) boostedomni@aol.com

- jon

[XXXER]

Aaron, i am not in a huge need of set-up help, i never do really live or die by the standard of the big name guys. I know what each thing on my car does, when i move this here, and whatnot.

Hey, if you guys would stop bashing your XXX's in the dirt, you would not have this problem :p

Seriously, i am still using the stock bearings, and have not had one single problem!

[Car_Head12]

Oh i dunno... I'm not sure it holds on THAT tight... :eek: anyhow silicon? Should i go pop Britney Spears !@#$%'s? or what? I guess what im trying to say is... is there any thing else i can use? this is basically just making another seal for the bearing, right?

[Car_Head12]

as far as dying my wheels... what should i use...???

[n2o]

Well, I got the Novak Millennium charger now. So I should be ready to race this weekend. All I need now is a good power supply. I think I will just use an old car battery I have for this weekend. Because I think the Novak N-Power is way over priced for what it is. If I cant find a good power supply that will work for less than that. I'll just make my own thats just like I want it.

So will anyone from this fourm be going to K&M Raceway in New Caney, tx this weekend??

-n2o

[XXXER]

hey, n20, here is a cheap power supply, Nairb uses it, and it is awesome, only 50 bucks or so, he runs two chargers off of it too, i will find the link.

okay, i cannot get a hold of him right now, but i will edit this post later, when i find it.
here is the direct link: http://www.mpja.com/product.asp?product=12422+PS

[ 06-29-2001: Message edited by: XXXER ]

[Oyster]

XXXer, hey man, don't be dissin on us!! hehe, I don't know what the dirt is like in Utah, but up here in WA it's super fine in most places. Even the rear hub bearings get bad after a couple runs up here. The track I made out behind my house I watered down, and that helped BIG TIME. But, any loose dirt, and it tears up cars fast. I'm sure people will understand that one.

CarHead, hehe, no Britney Spears talk here man! All you need is some silicone in a tube. If you don't want to make em, I'll make some, as stated, and the few people that have emailed me will get the first sets. I'm only making enough to send out to the guys for testing. I thought about selling them for a couple bucks, and might still do so. Almost all Losi cars use the same type setup. We'll see... As for dying your wheels, RIT dye works nicely. I'd go for the powered stuff (it's in a little box at most grocery stores) since it's cheaper than the liquid... If you can't find the color you desire try a fabric store.

- jon

[losifreak2004]

He's not bagging on you, just saying that in most conditions they hold up great. Most of the people you hear that have bearing problems don't clean them often enough. I take a tooth brush to mine after every time it hits the track.

[Oyster]

Aaron, I know what he's saying... if you read thru this whole forum, you'll see we dis on each other quite a bit. All in fun.

As far as bearings go, bring yer car up here to Yakima. No toothbrush will help ya, because ALL the bearings on the outside of the car will be stuffed with fine dirt. The track I race on in Tacoma is packed and dustless... no problems there. But, dirt bashing is tough on the XXX.

- jon

[doublet]

Oyster- I solved my rear traction problem. I first bought square fuzzies before i changed anything. It was better, but still wasnt hooked up. So what I did instead of changing the rear (i changed camber to 2deg.) I changed the front and made it less aggressive. I brought the fr camber link to 2-b and and changed toe-in to 1 or 1/2 degrees. So now i feel hooked up. Thanks for helping.

[Oyster]

doublet, Right on! I think you did all the work, but thanks for the thanks! :)

On another note about racing.. I checked out Tacoma RC Raceway, very cool. I was stuck in traffic on I-5 North for 2 hours, but it was worth it!! Nice track, should be great to race on. Some of the cars there are FAST! So, I better practice more.. hehe.

Too bad I had to come home early... but oh well... I'll be back to Tacoma to do battle.. woo hoo!

- jon

[doublet]

Oyster- You know what would have helped me from the start before i aksed for help? That darn downforce wing for the front which helped alot but ALWAYS came off in a race or simply messed up the mount so the wing cant be put back on...... :mad: have you tried the wing yet?

[XXXER]

Yep, i was just knocking on him a little bit :p

I have tried the front wing kit, marshalls rip it off all the time, stupid kids, they pull it out, so I cannot screw it in anymore, so what do I do? Put a bigger screw in it, it works, until they pull the same thing, hehe. So, I have given up on it. I never really noticed any difference, i just liked the way it looked.

Oh, and the affects are not really noticed, UNLESS at high speed.

Up next for my car, is either a new Remote, or some Titanium. I cannot wait.

Looks like I may be needing to buy a new truck soon also.... :D

[losifreak2004]

I'm all for poking fun, I will just defend Losi parts and cars until death.

That's when the front wing helps, high-speed, high bite tracks. Turn marshalls look at it and see a handle. So guess what? Don't crash!!! HAHAHAHA

Steve, get a M8 and the Matt Francis XXXT!!!

Wanna fly me up to Yakima? You can't say Hemet isn't hard on bearings.........

[XXXER]

Aaron Waldron I will defend losi parts to death Really? I never noticed! :p

As for the M8, that thing would be a good cornerstone in a very large building, what i am trying to get by, is that thing is a BRICK, I already told you, I am getting the Multiplex Profi 403. Also, about the FE XXXT, of course I am going to pick that bad oscar up, it is one sweet machine man! Check losi's web page, i see all graphite, red ball cups, but no bumper/body mounts/motor cage. Oh, well heck, i will just post it, here: http://www.teamlosi.com/Pictures01/ROARMod/5matttruck.jpg I think it may be a bit huge, but there it is!