Losi XXX Forum v1.0

[Car_Head12]

havent been on in awhile, glued to Diablo II X-pack... lol, it kicks SERIOUS BOOTY! anyhoo... ok sounds good i have a fabric store fairly close to me, that should do. hey! i dont get to go visit britney spears? :( ::looks at poster as tear plops:: u just took my dream, shot it then took an aluminum baseball bat to it, now would you like if you were the dream and it was beating you? i think not. lol dudes... chill well
CH

[Oyster]

doublet, No I haven't tried the wing. I thought it looked too darn funny. hehe. The track I ran at isn't big enough to even use the rear wing... so.. the rest goes unsaid.

Carhead, don't let me spoil your dream. I think you can watch Britney shop on the internet now. Something to do with Pepsi. I guess they film her... shopping. Hmm. Once they figure out no one is watching, they'll have her shop for panties and bra's... then I'll have to watch.. JUST to see... ya know. I love the internet.

- jon

[losifreak2004]

Like Honda says, "No wing, no prayer"

[doublet]

007yoshi will soon be back to the BB! Im tired of my current name.......... its making me have separate chat and BB accounts... :(

[Aussie_Man]

Have you guys ever tried cutting down your tires? I mean by cutting a strip out of the tire and then gluing it back together to give it a smaller diameter? I'm talking about the rear tires here, never fronts) I've heard from alot of racers here that it gives more side-bite on a smooth track. But, could someone please explain to me the real meaning of 'side-bite'? Seems as though Iam thinking differently. My version of side-bite is the amount of traction the tries have when going into a corner and theres alot of sideways force on the tire, less sidebite woul make the tire spin out easily like that wouldn't it? thanks

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

Im going to be racing the HRH shootout at hot rod hobbies. The hand out motors are going to be the MPV's. I was wondering what good gearing would be for this motor. You can see some of Hot Rod Hobbies in the May 2001 issue of RCCA.

XXXER and Nairb, Hot Rod hobbies is a little more "open" than your Local Track. Have you ever used a MPV with your buggies?

THANKS

[SirSpeedy]

Aussie-

The benefit of cutting down the tire is to keep the tire from folding over on it's sidewall. I have done it before with X-2000's on really high traction surfaces. You can achieve the same effect by merely running a firmer foam, or better yet 2-stage foam.

2-stage foam will allow the tire to have initial softness for good forward bite, but the firmer inner layer will give the tire better sidewall support, thus preventing it from rolling over.

[XXXER]

Nate, no i have yet to run the MVP, on my track, or anywhere, and I know that Nairb has only run his MVP in his truck. Though, i do not, if you pick up the Reedy MVP "Plus" motor, see what springs that are on it, they are probably no doubt a better set-up than the handout ones will be. Also, the Reedy 760 brushes are the ones to run it with, NOT the 767.

As for gearing, try 23/82, that is a very good all around gearing. Keep a 24 tooth on hand, because i have a feeling you may need it, but remember, the MVP runs hot, NO MATTER WHAT. High or low, that baby's temp will go up, and with HRH being outdoor, and at this time of year, you are going to see a loooot of them go *poof*.

If I can catch Nairb here on AIM, i will come back and edit the post, he is "Away from Computer" right now.

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

XXXER, with the handout motors, can I put better brushes and springs on it? Or do they check them?

THANKS!

[Nairb]

N8, if you can or can't change the brushes isn't a big deal on the MVP, for a two day race. They all (even Plus versions) come with 766 (no, not 760) brushes, and these babies work very well and are super nice to the comm. I'm going to continue using them, because 767s eat the comm like crazy and these 766s give great performance anyway. The MVP springs are almost 180 degrees (extra heavy). I suggest you replace the negative side spring with a slightly softer spring. I bet you'll want to gear it at between 23-25/82, but you better figure out what is best there.

XXXER, I don't think a lot will be toasted at the race...but I could be wrong.

[ 07-07-2001: Message edited by: Nairb ]

[dm76]

Guys, I am really excited. I just picked up a XXX Kinwald Ed. last week. So far I love it. I was having a serious moral dilema, I have been loyal to AE since day 1. I have a FT T3, an original RC-10, and a RC10-T. My first Losi car I picked up was a XX-4 I got off ebay. Since then I have turned it into a worlds ed. +
So I decided that it was a fluke and that would be the last Losi vehicle I got, but when the XXX KE came out, I could'nt pass it up.
So is it ok for me to own both brands??? of course I am just joking about this, and I know its o.k., but I thought I would share my "moral crisis" with you. Kind of like the Ford vs. Chevy thing! :)

[Car_Head12]

hey dudes, completely random question... i got in a fight with my servo and i messed up the screw that holds down the horn (lol) its a Hitec 625 and im having trouble finding out what the screw size is... anybody know?

what are the tires that come stock? is it like the X2000 's or something like that?

BTW Britney spears on the int.? SWEEEEEEET! ::does the happy dance from Basketball:: www.britneyspears.com (http://www.britneyspears.com) here i come!!!!

if i tighten the slipper all the way will i be able to pull wheelies? if not how

[XXXER]

Okay, i am sorry, but i do not know about your servo horn screw, but i DO know, that where i work(my hobby shop), go to the servo section, and I have seen them come with screws. Check that out.

On the KE XXX, the rear tires are X-2000 in Red compound, and on the standard, are Taper Pins, in Red compound.

No, if you tighten the slipper down, it will not make it wheelie, it will jsut be hard on everything, not worht it. How can you make it wheelie? It was not designed to do that, it was designed for keeping all tires on the ground, so as to keep your car in full control.

You wanna wheelie? Weight down the back of a Stampede.

[SirSpeedy]

Here is the wheelie formula.

6 degrees of anti-squat, 40wt oil and #60 pistons in the rear with Blue springs.

You'll need a mod motor, like a 12x2 or so. make sure the diff is good and tight, and tighen the slipper just a little.

Of course you will have to be on blue-groove or asphalt.

HAVE FUN!!

[Nairb]

Tonight I finally got my XXX ready to run! I put in my brand new C2 and XXtra. This is gonna be so sweet! I can't wait to lay the smack down on XXXER in his own class! hehe ;)

[Nairb]

We'll see who beats who on Saturday. Will it be Steve, who has had his XXX for a year, or me, who has never raced or really even driven a buggy yet? Oh, the suspense... I'll keep you posted. :D

Stick to the facts, buddy. I am NOT a woman. You're just jealous of my pecs when I was your age...you scrawny little bugger. ;)

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

Im having a really bad pushing problem. Here's my set up for Font: Green springs, 35 wt oil, # 55 pistons (I think, or 56), Ball stud in middle on bulk head with 2 gold washers, ball stud out side on hub, shock locatons, on arm, middle and on tower, middle. ½º toe in, 0º camber. Rear: Pink spings, 35 wt oil, (55 or 56 pistons) ball studs on tower in middle and out side on hub. Shock location, tower, 2 from inside, on arm, inside 2º toe in, 0º camber. And my servo is a Hitec 925 (@ 6.0v: .08, 103 oz). Wing location: bottom with one gold washer under the bottom mount.

Notes: 2 quarters on font bulkhead. And Aluminum brace.

MY problem is really low speed-on-power steering and trying to turn without brakes.

THANKS!

[Nairb]

I'd start by going to silver or orange springs out front, and maybe try removing one of the washers under the front ballstuds.

[XXXER]

The front pistons are 55, and the rear are 56, if stock. Your damping seems waaay to heavy out back, go to a 30 weight. The front, go to 32.5 weight oil, with, as Nairb suggested, with silver or orange springs, go with Silver first. Try removing the shim underneath the rear pivot block, that will give you more forward bite, less side to side, and, if it STILL pushes, put the shim under the FRONT 2 holes in the pivot block, for even more forward bite, and less side to side.

Hope this helps!

Also, you could put the Ball Stud location on the rear axle carrier to the inside.

[SirSpeedy]

Run 25/56 in the rear. That will help to let the rear 'dump' a little more, and should give you some more steering. The 35/56 you are running is a lot of pack.

[XXXER]

Yeah yeah, keep talking.... WOMAN!

You are a truck racer, face it, you are going to get suuuu-lapppppped in Stock buggy!

One thing i will need to help you with, i am sure, is that thing's set-up, it pushes soooooo much with the stock set-up.

See you Saturday man!

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

I meant 30 wt rear... What about 32.5 oil in front and 27.5 in rear? With same springs. And about the shims.. Should I put them under the holes in the FRONT of the car or the rear? If in the rear, should I put them under the front holes??

[Nairb]

That oil you suggested would probably be good, but you definitely should try softer springs up front (try silver, then orange if you have to). Yeah, the shims always go under the rear pivot block. When you remove them from the rear holes, or add them under the front holes, you're getting more anti-squat; antisquat is basically the angle the inside hinge pins are with reference to the chassis, when looked at from the side. As XXXER said, more antisquat gives you more forward bite and less side bite. With less side bite, your rear end will swing around easier and that can help stop the understeering problem. I still think you should use softer springs up front, though (in addition to more antisquat).

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

Thanks! Now about the shims. They have a tab on them.. which way should they go??

[ 07-10-2001: Message edited by: rcracer_xxxt_futaba ]

[Nairb]

Always put the rounded part towards the edge of the pivot block, and the "tab" part towards the center of the pivot block (or you could say the far edge). Ok, just so you don't get confused, I'll spell it out. If you put them under the rear of the pivot block, the "tab" should point forward. If you put them under the front holes, the "tab" should point towards the back of the car. Get it?

[SirSpeedy]

Does anyone read the manual?

The manual covers all of this type of thing....direction the shims should go, etc.

[Nairb]

Obviously, the guys answering the questions read their manual... I agree, Tim, this isn't rocket science or anything...

[SirSpeedy]

I understand if you come here looking for set-up advice or theory, but some of the questions........whew....

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

Idont care to read my manual. If I know the car inside-out, why should I use a manual. Acually I dont even have a manual. I lost the one for my XXX-T and bought my XXX used with no manual. :D :D

[Aussie_Man]

The XXX manual is my version of the dictionary. You should get a manual rcracer, it will help you alot!

[losifreak2004]

The only reason I have my library right next to my comp is because I can't memorize the part #'s of everything. I'm trying!!!!

[XXXER]

Hey, SirSpeedy, what is up. Me again, asking for a few set-up tips.

Okay, but first, I just rebuilt my shocks, cartridges, and all, they came with some funky black spacers. What is the deal? What are they for? Look a lot bigger than .03" should be. When should i use spacers?

Okay, now, We have a few elevations, that are pretty gradual, But it is a mid-speed section, where you are accelarating hard, and when i come down, my back end will wash out, Pretty much always. Recently, the track has been nice and moist, with good bite. When I say elevation, it rises total, maybe 1-2 inches, but it is gradual enough, that is screws me up.

My set-up,

REAR: 25Wt, 56, Shock location, upper, 2nd out, inside on arm. Camber 2-B, shims in back of pivot block. Yellow Spring.
FRONT: 30wt, 55, middle on tower, middle on arm, Camber 2-B, Stock caster, Shim on steering knuckle on top, bell crank on outer links. 2 Washers underneath the Ball Stud. Silver Spring(I may go to Orange, because the condition still caused a bit of push)

Thanks for any help, I need to take Brian this saturday, because he is FAST in stock buggy, and I NEED to beat him!

Thanks!

-Steve
EDIT: BTW, I got my Titanium last night, ME LIKE! I picked up the black ball cups too, they look TONS better than the gray, or the blue ones, i HAD on my car. I am taking my car with me into work today, we have a Toe gauge, and camber gauge, so I am going to go dial it in.

[ 07-12-2001: Message edited by: XXXER ]

[SirSpeedy]

Those are the A and B spacers. Don't use them too often.

If the rear is washing out, or dumping, you need to stiffen the rear. I would first go to the outside hole in the arm. If that doesn't do it, you could try 30/56 in the rear.

[XXXER]

Alright, sweet, Will do! :)

[XXXER]

Guys, i got my new things on, Titanium, and everything, and spent FOREVER getting everything just perfect, camber, toe, etc. My car is going to be like brand new. those graphite suspension arms look sweet with that big ol "GRAPHITE" on them. Just so people KNOW that you spent the extra 5 bucks for them :)

Catch you all later!

Also, I got a little creative, and the rear motor cage, i took the dremel, and took a little off, so that i can get to the brush easier, and i can pull it out, and use a comm stick, very easily, i suggest you all try it, it took me all of less than one minute, and it does not look hack!

[SirSpeedy]

XXXer-

I usually wipe all the "graphite" logos of with motorspray.....especially all that crap on the bottom of the chassis and pivot blocks....

[XXXER]

Oooooooh, hehe, STEALTH MODE!

I kinda like it :)

[Oyster]

Hey all, long time no see. :)

XXXer, got yer parts, eh? Yes! I remember when I got my GRAPHITE parts. :) First I put em on so the GRAPHITE was upside down. Finally, I just scotchbrite pad'ed the GRAPHITE off. hehe, the graphite has a cool look all it's own.

I see what you're saying about the motor cage. I cut the TL out of the middle so I could check the motor's can temp quick.

New stuff here too, I am trying an Integy Motor... so far it's sweet. It's basicly a D4 with a different sticker. 12 turn double. Then two new 3000 SMH's are on their way. My soldering gun in cleaned and ready to build a couple packs! Getting closer to being "more complete!"

I tell ya, getting nice batteries and a nice motor is almost as exciting as getting the car. We'll see how BIG the difference is! :)

- jon

[ 07-13-2001: Message edited by: Oyster ]

[Nairb]

Here's a question. How many washers do you guys like to use under the front ballstuds? I'm liking one washer so far (in the middle hole). So far, that's all I've changed from the standard setup and boy, is it dialed... My buggy ROCKS! :D

[007yoshi]

I have my good name restored!!! so long 'doublet'.....

[Oyster]

Welcome back, 007yoshi! :)

- jon

[XXXER]

Sir, today was excellent! My car was fast, torquey, I am loving this Spitfire more and more!

Today, track was dry, rutted, and slick! My first qual went excellent, i was in the lead for the first half, then lost it, but stayed in Second. I finished with a 16/5:17, repsectable, but i was really holding back, i knew that i was having a little too much steering, So, i went from 25 to 30. for the second qual, I noticed it had that extra push i was looking for, and enough steering, when called for. I again, finished with a 16/5:17, which is just plain wierd, but I crashed, a lot more, so i knew that it had helped me, so i kept it that way for the main. I ended up qualifying 5th A-Main, which was sweet, you always love it when you EARN the position. I outqualified Brian by about 5 seconds, but, he had to change that, he and another guy swapped places (he did with 4th Place, he qualed 7th, last to be in the A) and I stuck it out in 5th, losing it temporarily, only to gain it back.

In the end, Brian beat me, and surprisingly, not by as much as I thought he would, about 5 seconds(BTW, my finishing time was 16/5:16. Showing I am consistent, with wrecking, :rolleyes: )


Sir, I think you will be happy to know, that Skyler is doing very well at the Hot Rod Hobbies Shootout. Qualifying is over, and he is sitting 7th place, A-Main, Sportsman Stock Truck, and get this, TQ for Sportsman Stock buggy! That is awesome, for this little 9 Year old, and i Pray he does a great job. Everyone at IR/CR wants him to do well also, which he has already showed.

[Nairb]

For my second outing with my XXX so far, I did very well. This buggy handles like a dream; I totally dig it. :D With both rounds of qualifying done rather weakly on my part, I felt fortunate to make the A-main in both stock buggy and truck. I qualified 6th in truck and 7th in buggy; both qualifying times were not up to par in my book. I ran pretty mediocre throughout the day, but I pulled out all the stops for the mains. First up was the Stock Buggy A-main. Steve was a cocky bugger all day long because he was doing well, but I shut his mouth in that main. :p I passed him early in the race and never looked back. I nearly got third, but I definitely got the best buggy time of all my buddies, 16/5:09 (which is more than 5 seconds, buddy ;)). I felt pretty good after that, and I was ready to rock when the stock truck A-main came around. As I said, I qualified 6th (which was pretty weak, because I usually am much closer to TQ), but that didn't mean anything. By the third lap, I was in the lead and was never seriously challenged again. I rolled on to get 16/5:03, and first place. Aahhhh, that's more like it... BTW, I'm still faster with my truck, which is weird, but understandable. It feels pretty good to do so well on a two-heat-per-stock-class night, especially after such crappy qualifying.

The first rumble in stock buggy with my buddies is over, and I came out victorious. That's how I like it... :) After all, I beat Steve solidly in our only race together and got him to shut his cocky trap for a few minutes...hehe. :p Besides, I wiped the floor with his (_!_) in practice...lol :D About my other buggy-driving buddy? He wasn't any trouble (no offense, Derek; you rock!). He had a bad night and ended up the BQ (Bottom Qualifier). You've got to admit it, Steve. This truck driver's got skillz... :cool: But hey, so do you. I admit it...

[ 07-15-2001: Message edited by: Nairb ]

[Oyster]

Congrats Brian! Sounds like you're doing very well... I haven't forgotten you either. Still have your email here about the outdrive bearing savers I'm making. Just been busy as he!!. Anyway, good luck to you AND Steve on the next race. :)

- jon

[XXXER]

Heck yeah! You had your way with me in the Main, that is for sure.

Derek, you are coming around, just need to practice more, and get that servo dialed in man!

Hey, I figure, as many times as i am crashing, that is the only problem i am having, though i am crashing less every time. I will get you one day though!

[k-thib]

007yoshi-dude, I love my XXXke. That car is awesome. I wish I could have been hangin w/ you in the race. The whole race you were like 1 turn ahead of me. http://www.plauder-smilies.de/coolman.gif

[007yoshi]

sup kyle... didnt know you had an account here. Anyway were letting scot keep the crappy xxxt he messed up and my dad got a new one. I havent built the truck before. You should see it running round the track saturday.

[adnansal]

I have a thunder tiger stadium truck and the team losi xxx will be my secong car.
so, hot this car perform and what is its speed? :confused:

[Gutter Ball]

Okay, I'm jumping the Associated band wagon and hopping onto LOSI's! I run a XXX-T Spec and 2 XX-T Graphites and love 'em! The T3 didn't appeal to me at all. However, I couldn't bring myself to abandon my trusty B2 and B3...until I drove a XXX, man...great buggy! I tried the XXCR and didn't like it, so I went with the B2 at the time and then a B3. Sooooo, when I get the funds...I'm gonna get a XXX and sell both of my Associated's! I can't wait to try out that XX-4 I picked up from here too!! All I need now is a Losi Touring car and I'll be fully Losi-fied! :)

[007yoshi]

XXXER- do you run a spitfire motor? i might need some help

[XXXER]

adnan, The XXX buggy is an all out racer, through and through. It will most likely handle better, and be pretty much better all over. You will notice the difference more by the performance on the track, more than just farting around the front yard. If you get this car, I highly reccomend it for racing.

007, Yes, I do run the Peak Spitfire, what is happening with it? I just found this killer bushing lube, that is some sweet sweet stuff, it is Bolink's Mean Green bushing somethingorother. I will find the part # later, but that stuff rocks!

I run the stock springs, with reedy 767 brushes, cut my comm every 5-6 race days, clean daily, with motor spray, and comm sticks. I break in the brushes, so that the serrations are well gone, and the brush face is making FULL contact with the comm, with a 4-cell pack. I hardwire the brush shunts. I run a 21/82 gear combo.

My guess, is you would like the lightened aluminum top shaft, that was my first time running my buggy with it, and it was excellent! I can really notice a difference. My next fad is going to be a lightened drive train, Nairb is selling me some new molded outdrives, and Trinity Titanium outdrive savers, for 15 bucks, I am going to pick up his old trinity blue shock bushings too, all for 25 bucks, hehe. I will not run the outdrives until i get some Team Losi Aluminum universals.

I have been told that the molded outdrives only do well on really bumpy tracks, but i do not mind.

[007yoshi]

XXXER- I was just wondering whats the best springs and brushes to use. I LOVE THIS MOTOR! It feels waaayyy better than the P2K I was using. It also cools down a heck of a lot faster.

[Oyster]

Update for Steve... sorry buddy, I found it at Horizon. :)

BOL6041 Mean Green Bushing Oil $4.99

For bearings I've been using Trinitys Royal Oil... works very well. I use two drops on most bearings, three drops on the outdrives.

TRI4051 Royal Oil $4.99

Now, what's everyone using for motorspray? That stuff is spendy! :)

- jon

[derekjr_1]

Ok Losi Boy's (narib and xxxer), Derek is in this forum now. My B3 (I swear I am the only associated guy) is getting hoppups like mad! So now I am ready to start running with you guys, hehe...

XXXer > My servo is so dialed now with that new 757. It ROCKS! No more servo problems.

Better watch out boys, the B3 is dialed, and my driving is getting outragously AWSOME! I am driving lines like you wouldn't beileve.. Just though I should add to this thread cause I see my name, hehe.. :cool:

[Possumbot]

Wow, big forum, recently, i got a E-maxx, but i already a xxx. Im thinkin of turning it into a project car, but i cant decided on which kind. Its either gonna b a dragster, or a tc racer. Im lookin for a conversion that wouldn't take that many upgrades, and would result in a really cool car.

[losifreak2004]

Oyster, I use the Trinity stuff, but if cost is a big deal brake cleaner from any old motorcycle shop is nearly the same thing.

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

My computer says theres only 14 pages in this form.

[Oyster]

Derekjr.. You certainly don't need hopups to make a B3 keep up with an XXX. I've seen em run, the B3's are tough and dialed cars. It's all who's behind the wheel.

Aaron, I've used the Dynomite spray, and then just the stuff from Schucks auto supply. If it's quick dry stuff it works.

- jon

[XXXER]

Nate, it looks like Steve changed how many posts make up a page, It looks like, 50 posts per page now, I think that is like that, because, of some forums that have gotten ridiculously long(coughrc10gtforumcough)

[losifreak2004]

LOL!!

Oyster-That's pretty much it. I just like the Trinity stuff.......

[derekjr_1]

Oyster > I totally agree it is on the driver's driver what determines how you win a race. Cars are Cars. AE wins some and Losi wins some. It's just who is driving there car better that day.

Some like the the feel of losi cars and others like the feel of AE cars. I personally like AE cars, but it doesnt really matter!

[007yoshi]

here it is:

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Jul/20017273430214435829069.jpg

[Car_Head12]

hey Oyster-
if i were to get the ti-screws would i be able to anodize them? also have you tried anodizing anyhting else?
CH

[Oyster]

Derekjr.. I hear ya. I've seen the B3's tear it UP! And I've seen the XXX's tear it up too! Come this aug 18th and 19th, we'll see how many B3's tear ME up! hehe.

Car Head, The Ti-Screws should be able to be colored using the same process I used on the turnbuckles. I tried to do aluminum, but it's a totally different process to do aluminum. So we're stuck doing the Titanium. I know there are ways to do aluminum, but it takes other nasty chemicals and lots of power. I gave up when I figured I'd be spending more on equip than my whole car. :) The screws should take a color though! Let us know how it works for you!

- jon

[Oyster]

007Yoshi! Where'd you get my standard setup!? Could this be why the Team Tyco kids always beat me up!?

- jon

[Car_Head12]

well oyster only thing is... i need to GET the ti turnbuckles first... lol. im also looking at this website that sells anodizing stuff (cosmo posted it in the painting forum) but it looks like its gonna be too much... also how many cells should i use?
(dont have any breakin packs, thinking maybe i could use a 4 AA's?) and will the allen wrench things that came with the kit be good enough? hehe now time to go order some sexy ti... HAHAHAHAHA
BTW i think a bk blue heatsink motor plate might have to go in my little shopping cart :D :eek:
CH
PS do u have aol or aim cause it be much easier to talk abooot the anodizing...

[Car_Head12]

also what is the part # for the Lunsford Titan turnbuckles?

[007yoshi]

Oyster... I'm a secret agent, shhhhhhhh! :)

[Oyster]

Car Head, yeah, I'd get the ti-rods first. The price for the screws are crazy! To answer your questions.. I used two 9 volt batteries. To get roughly the same power, you'll have to hook up 2 freshly charged 6 cell batteries. That'll give you roughly 16.5 volts. Just in case, I'd buy two 9 volt batteries. They're cheap. You don't have to use an allen wrench. You could pick up a stainless screw or nail or something and it'll work. Doesn't really have to be stainless for that matter... but if it's a tool you use, you probably don't want it messed up. Just make sure the wrench, or screw is roughly the same size as the product you wish to anodize. - If you don't want your OLD motor plate, let me know!

Next question, you can reach me about anytime at boostedomni@aol.com - AIM or AOL or whatever. I'm around most the time.

Horizon's catalog says... for the super duty (SD) ones, the part number is ....

LNS12054 SD Turnbuckle Kit: XXX (6) $33.25

Which is also currently being ordered from Horizon... they don't have any...

Lunsford also offers the older and still strong (I use em), and cheaper ti-rods for the XXX...

LNS2054 Turnbuckle Kit: XXX $25.65

Those are currently in stock. And they work just dandy.

If you just HAVE to have the Super Dutys, and don't mind paying more.. get this one..

LNS14054 SD Turnbuckle/Pin Kit: XXX $44.55

Of course you'll also get a hinge pin kit with it. It's in stock.

If you want the regular rods and some pins too... here's that part number...

LNS4054 Turnbuckle/Hinge Pin Kit: XXX $38.93

Above is in stock too.

Hope this helps! Where do you order all your stuff from?

007yoshi - You're a secret agent? Me too! Oh Great, now I'm not... it's no secret anymore... thanks a lot Yoshi! :)

- jon

[007yoshi]

Hey Oyster- my future recedent by 65 million years (im a dinosaur, duh :) ), James Bond, has had his future revealed via 10 or so movies and now hes filthy rich, so whats the hurt in becoming famous and having your identity revealed? I had it well helping mario out in beating bowser, but now I get to do spy stuff for M-I6 and get paid big time!!! :p LOL

[007yoshi]

What agent # are you? 009, 010? I wasnt informed of another new agent....


ANYWAY speaking of Ti Screws, besides looking cooler and being high priced, do they weigh less than aluminum screws and are they really strip-proof? I like those but I cant put them in high stress areas, I've broke 4-5 of them. Im also tired of stripping the steel countersunkers under the xxx pivot plate. :mad:

[Oyster]

007yoshi, I'm 00998911. There's been a BUNCH since ole Bond joined up. I only make 4.25 per hour. Plus, the ladies that follow me around are always about 290 pounds. I think I joined at the wrong time.

Oh yes, Ti Screws. They will be about twice the weight of aluminums, but much stronger. I have yet to totally strip one of the steels, but I can tell ya, the wrench Losi sends with the kits is a little too small. I think the one I have now is metric, and it fits the smaller countersunk ones a LOT better. I doubt there is many screws out there that are strip proof. So, I'd say no on that one.

I'd stick with the stockers. At least that's my plan. If offroad even gets so bad that you need to drop a gram or two to win, I'll just figure out a way to keep everything together with one screw. :)

- jon

[007yoshi]

I didnt care too much at all about weight... I just wanted some screws that strip out less. I'll stick with steel since they only cost 1$ per bunch.


Man you definitely had wrong timing in joining M-I6. What was M thinking?!!?!!? I thought there would never be more than 10 agents hired. And besides your payrole ***** , I average in about 300-500 grand a year. :P

[SirSpeedy]

I can hook you up with a full set of Stainless Steel screws for $20.

GetScrewed Racing.

sirspeedy01@yahoo.com

Team Losi/Peak Performance team driver Ryan Eckert uses GetScrewed fasteners exclusively in his Losi cars and trucks, as well as many others.

[ 08-07-2001: Message edited by: SirSpeedy ]

[losifreak2004]

I use them too, well, along with Lunsford Ti screws.

Get some MIP wrenches, no more strippage

[k-thib]

Has anyone had this problem with your xxx ke kit- Mine didn't come with the 2 screws to mount the front shocks to the a-arms, and it didn't come with the rear dust covers for the ballcups. My friends car didn't come with those exact parts either. It's not a problem or anything, but I found that pretty weird. ;)

[k-thib]

007 yoshi- Where did u get that awesome setup? I raced at the veledrome last week using that setup, and it hooked up great............. LOL J/K :p

[Car_Head12]

Thanks Sir, unfortunately im almost out of dough... lol. Maybe in a month or so.
BTW how much is it? :D
CH

[XXXER]

CarHead, he sells them for 20$ a set

My friend did not have the same exact screws in his KE Kit.

Wieeeeeeeeeeerd!

[Josh B]

my xxxke came with everything, but i bought it when it first came out.

[Oyster]

Wow... no one has posted here in a long time! The ole XXX ran great in Tacoma this weekend. I didn't run that great, but the car did. Had to fix a couple problems. One, a while ago, I pulled (stripped) a screrw in the front bulkhead. At the track, every time I hit the front just right, I'd pull a screw out (or two) about 4 threads out. Which made the car grab everytime the nose came down. :(

Then the real pivot block got loose, and kept getting loose. For the front, I installed the graphite nose parts. Knowing how this stuff cuts for threads... I shouldn't have a loose bulkhead again. Of course, new screws... for the rear, I cut about 3 threads off the extra screws for the front, and installed them in the back. Then to top it off, a nylon nut. Should hold it tight with minimal weight increase.

Other than that, the car ran great. Motor ran excellent, (Yokomo can/arm, Trinity 4455nt brushes) and the batteries also cycled excellent. (Integy SMH's). Novak Cyclone ran perfect. M8 ran perfect. Only complaints was my nervous shake. :)

- jon

[mikemann]

anyone looking for some tires for thier XXX buggy? I have a bunch for sale in the forum that are all brand new and cheap.
http://www.rccaraction.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=11&t=003051

thanks,

Mike

[Aussie_Man]

Dam this place is dead. But the xxx still rules!
Does anyone know of a way to zap magnets in a sealed endbell motor or in a re-buildable mod can (without buying a zapper)?
Any suggestions would be cool! :cool:

[Aussie_Man]

Come on peoples, dont let the best thread here die away!

[R/Cbum4life]

Okay guys your all getting to lazy or in my case to involved in school to post. I feel your pain. Well here is my problem does anyone know where i can get some losi stickers for a new wing and body i need some of those big ones. let me know.
Nicholas

[Aussie_Man]

I wouldn't have a clue where to get them over there (I live in Australia). Goodluck anyways

[Oyster]

Nicholas, these may be what you're looking for...

LOSA8306 - TEAM LOSI STICKER SHEET

LOSA8341 - LOGO STICKER SHEET:XXX

LOSA8349 - KINWALD STICKER SHEET: XXX

That's all Losi offers for the XXX... good luck!

- jon

[R/Cbum4life]

okay now i really have a problem i was running my xxx real for about 5 or 6 batterys in a row. I was driving around in the street on the last battery and my 16 turn suddenly died. I looked at it and noticed that on the back of the motor where the brushes go that little metal brace thing that screws into the plastic was dangling. The plastic melted and the metal brace came out. The plastic piece is broke, is this repairable or do I need a new motor?

-Nicholas

[Oyster]

Yeap, motors can/can't take that much abuse. :) You probably need a new motor, but... you'll have to check the arm and comm realy close.

Let me ask, do you run the car till it barely moves, or do shut things down when the battery starts to dump? The latter is best. Once the voltage drops in the battery, resistance increases, thus creating nice heat for you. :)

It's ok to run everything as hard as you can, (race conditions) but you must allow things to cool. Also, you should check things out before each pack goes in.

Let us know what you find. :)

- jon

[R/Cbum4life]

What should I be looking for on the arm and comm? plastic is ruined. is That replacable or not?

[Oyster]

Yeah, the endbell (depending on maker) can just be replaced. As far as the arm... look to see if the comm is purple colored. This means overheated. If it can be turned, you might ok. Brushes? Were they purple?

The arm... it should be a bright copper. If it's dark and dull it's seem too much heat for sure. If it's black, ouch. Replace everything.

If you need a good motor, let me know. I've been doing a lot of research and know some nice tips! :)

- jon

[R/Cbum4life]

According to the hobby shop near my house it was because it just got real dirty and overheated it works fine and I am definently going to get some kind of cleaning kit.
Thanks,
Nicholas

[LosiMan3456]

Hi! I am having a couple problems with my car pushing at low and high speeds. I want it to corner better at lower speeds more so than at higher speeds. I run on blue clay which is somewhat rough and very slippery. It is tight to. I am running bald tires out front and back. They are soft compound tires with a firm foam. The fronts are 4wd. I also use a sticky tire solution. Ok her is my setup ( that I know. Some of it I dont know.)
Front: Ride height-arms level with surface,1* of camber, stock caster,no sway bar all stock locations for ball studs and stuff like that, all stock holes. For the supension, I have 30wt standered piston and orange springs.

Back:
Ride height is dogbones and arms level with surface,1* of camber, center rear hub spacing,all stock locations for ball stud holes except my Turnbuckle that controls cmaber is on hole A and hole 1. For shocks I have 35 wt oil,standered piston,yellow spring. If you could give me any advice on how to set my car up a little better would be great. Thanks!!!!!

[SirSpeedy]

You are running slick tires?

[Nairb]

Holy CRAP, I LOVE MY BUGGY! I just can't say enough about it... It has definitely dethroned my XXXT in the fun-to-race category. Whew! What a blast! :D I just had to say that. ;)

[LosiMan3456]

yeah I run bald/slick tires. I can also run X-2000 or something similar to that. The track is so hard it doesnt have a top layer of any kind. There is nothing for pins or anything to grip. So bald tires with death grip tire solution works really good. Kinda strange huh! :D

[007yoshi]

LosiMan- put a .055 sway bar on the rear

[SirSpeedy]

Sounds pretty high-bite. Shorten your rear camber link. Try Link 2-A, 3-B, or possibly 3-A if those don't help.

[007yoshi]

I thought a longer rear camberlink would flatten the rear out in a turn, giving the car more steering. I could be wrong.... :confused:

[SirSpeedy]

Longer links provide more traction by leveraging the tire more with the roll moment. Shorter links let the rear end dump over, and give more steering.

The only way a longer link will give more steering is if you get it long enough that it puts forces on the tire so high that it overloads the tire, and breaks loose. That is bad, and unpredictable.

[LosiMan3456]

k thanks guys. I will try it this saturday

[R/Cbum4life]

losiman you live in portage eh? I live in Grand Rapids. Where do you race?

[R/Cbum4life]

Hey everybody around here WAKEUP! Has anyone had any experiance with any of the trinity caliber motors? What did you think of them? For 25 bucks they've gotto be good for cruising the streets right?

[Oyster]

Howdy all! This place HAS been dead, for sure. Let's talk XXX! :) As far as the new Caliber motors, haven't tried one. I've actually had the best luck with an Integy Atlas (yokomo) motor. I'm using the hand wound's. They aren't well setup from Integy, so you have to modigy them a little. But enough about that...

Here's the most updated pics of my everchanging XXX.

http://members.aol.com/freqracing/xxx11.jpg

http://members.aol.com/freqracing/xxx12.jpg

Post your pics too!

- jon

[R/Cbum4life]

Finally someone talks around here. I want something cheap to just rip up and down the street with. Calibers are only 25.00 big ones. (thats pretty cheap)You think these are any good or are they all show and no go? By the way thats a mighty fine looking car you got there.

-Nicholas~~~~~~~~_/)

[Oyster]

Oh I'm sure the Calibers will be good for running around. They'd be good in racing as well. It's all about control in Offroad racing. Super fast speed only really helps in Oval and Drag Racing.

Trinity makes good stuff, so pick one up and tell us all how they are!

- jon

[Oyster]

Hey Steve (XXXer), I got your email with the new paintjob... it looks great!! I know it's been awhile, but these people in the forum don't know that.... ok, they do now... so I guess I shouldn't have said anything... I suppose I could backspace and delete the part in question... oh well, I'm just feeling too lazy to even finish this senta

- jon

[losifreak2004]

HA!

[SirSpeedy]

So,

What is new in Triple-X land?

Everyone hooked up and winning races I guess....

[losifreak2004]

I race at Hemet, SoCal, and K&M

[Oyster]

Not much new in XXX land. I've been making aluminum parts and bearing seals. :)

Any news on a NEW Losi buggy? I'm sure something is being worked on, or tested. I'd ask Drake, but I doubt he'll tell me. hehe.

- jon

[R/Cbum4life]

speaking of new buggy's is the rumor really true about associated coming out with a t4 and b4? They think they can compete with losi again. HAHA

-Nicholas~~~~~~~_/)

[pdduubb]

OK so it is not an origianl topic..... but I am not known for being a trendsetter.

I bought a XXX -spec but now realize I should of spent the extra bones and got the higher proced versions. I am trying to cross over from thrasher to racer. This is my first buggy so it takes a lil getting used to . I am running a pk2 pro 24-82 at the Tacoma RC track.

I have got:
Bearings throughout
Better tires
Graphite A-arms
Good Batteries
High Speed servo

After reading the previous postings, I should get TI rods.

What other suggestions can be made?

What is the benifit of CVD's?

Gearing?

Thanks for the infornation!

PW

[Oyster]

pdduubb, right on, another Washington racer. I've raced in Tacoma myself.

Looks like you're well on your way! Ti-Rods is a good upgrade for sure. You should never have to worry about them. As far as CVD's... I haven't used them, nor seen the need for them. I'm not using the Spec kit though. Don't those come with the telescopic shafts? (plastic) - If so, I'd just get the stock XXX kit bones. They work great. Don't get me wrong, I'm sure the CVD's are good, and probably worth the money. But, it's not needed.

Gearing. That's a test deal. If you're over heating, then you best gear up. If your motor is cold after a run, you can always add a couple teeth to the pinion. Test test, then test somemore. You'll get more info from that than anyone here can tell you.

Other than that... I'd invest in springs, shock oil, and little replacement parts to keep the suspension tight. Like the spacers for the spindles. These wear somewhat quickly, and can change your caster if worn too much. This will cause a funny acting buggy.

You're certainly on the right track! The best thing to do from here is drive the tires off that XXX. You'll gain so much info while you play with different setups, and try different driving styles.

Hope anything here helped ya. Good luck with your racing. It's certainly a good track to race on!

- jon

[007yoshi]

Havent been here in a long time. Here's my XXX:

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Oct/200110227410184008419499.jpg

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Oct/200110227777561977168169.jpg

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Oct/200110222366312961601615.jpg

[007yoshi]

Thats one screwed up clock here on this BB... its not 2 am, its not even the 23rd yet, its only 8:21p.m. here......

[Nairb]

That's DEFINITELY a sexy XXX, yoshi! I totally dig it.

I'll post pics of mine as soon as they're ready. :D

[007yoshi]

Its gotta be the purple rod-ends and the 6 month old body :)

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

I might get a used XXX
Is losi going to make a newer buggy within next 2 years?
If I get the car I will be driving it on carpet oval...
What kind of set up should I have???
thanx guys :D :D :D

[micro_man]

Originally posted by losifreak2004
I race at Hemet, SoCal, and K&M

hey losifreak, i used go there to practice with my rush then i sold it and bought an xxx, i am going to start going there now. what city do you live in i live in moreno valley. do you know where that is? oh yeah, there is also a new track in perris that has all classes and drag racing. well, maybe i will see you at the track some day.

later

Oh, yeah. does anyone know where i can download the instruction manual for the XXX. i bought mine used and i didnt get the manual.

later

[losifreak2004]

Yeah, but I heard the track at Perris races six days a week. I've also heard they don't get enough people to be worth driving up there. If that is different tell me, I'd like to head on up there.

There's no new buggy. The market isn't needing one. Doesn't mean new stuff isn't in the works......

Two years is a long time. If AE releases a B4 in that time, then yes, Losi will come out with a new buggy.

micro_man - I live in Escondido, which is near San Diego

NMT_racer - how much you wanna experiment? You could just use a normal setup, or you could make the thing oval-only.

CVD's bind up more, which gives you more forward bite and the car squares up easier. They will hurt you on a rough track though.

ppdubb - your gearing is about dead on

[Oyster]

All hail the XXX! :)

How ya'll been?

- jon

[Oyster]

I guess I'm the only one anymore with a Tri-X. Where are ya'll?

- jon

[007yoshi]

I still have mine :)

[speedydave]

Hi guys. I am thinking about getting a XXX-KE. I know it comes with all the hop ups, but I think there MAY be some things missing. Anyone got any tips or suggestions as to hop ups? All I know right now is Ti ball studs. Thanks.

[losifreak2004]

Anything else is just for show, or to make it more durable. I would go for the Trinity front and rear pivot blocks.

[Oyster]

007Yoshi, Yes man... thanks for making me feel a little less alone. :) How's your XXX?

Speedydave, the ti ball studs might be a good choice. I've bent a couple of mine(stockers), and it had me puzzled for a night. I just couldn't figure out why my camber was off on one side. Then I realized I'm an idiot. After that, things started to fall into place. Seriously though, the only time you'll bend a ball stud is when you hit something on the side, like a curb. The trick is not to hit anything... but... well, you know the rest. How much are the ti ball studs anyway?

Losifreak, I personally think the aluminum pivot blocks are a waste of money. Up front... well, you should never ruin a stocker. I've abused this car a few times, and never even harmed the front block. If you have, please share! As far as the rear block, you can get about 10 stock rear blocks for the price of an aluminum piece. If you hit something hard enough to break the stocker, you'll certainly tweak the aluminum one. The only problem I see with the stock rear block is the threads. There's not enough of them. So, run down to the hardware shop and pick up some 4/40 nylon nuts. They are about 10 cents each or less. Then buy a package of the front XXX 4/40 countersunk screws... the ones that hold the bumper/block/bulkhead together. Cut about three threads off, and put on the nut. I haven't had a loose block problem since. You only need nuts on the very rear, since the front is held together with the shock tower.

Of course, there are people that have had other interesting things happen to them, so if anyone can disprove anything I've said, please do! I promise not to bash anyone in conversation. So bring it on, you ignorant dorks! Oops... sorry. :)

- jon

[007yoshi]

Ya I run stock blocks front and rear also. I only broke the rear once and that was after a horrilbe wreck. The only Trinity stuff on my buggy is threaded shock collars, rear shock bushings, transponder mount, and a few blue screws here and there. I think the only necessary hop-ups for a XXXKE would be an RPM rear gear cover (the plastic ones stink IMO) and RPM Ball cups (the Losi ones fit so tight to where you can't adjust the tierods while keeping both ends on the ballstud). My favorite hop-up is definitely the custom carbon-fiber shock tower in the front. Only costed my 6$ on ebay :D :D

Oyster- My XXX is doing great. Its still the same as the one in the pictures above but now I have AE blue rear wheel nuts. I like the darker blue color, and it matches my purple, white, and yellow scheme better. I wish I knew who made purple 8-32 locknuts.

[Oyster]

007Yoshi, I've seen the shock tower on Ebay before, what's the difference between that, and the stocker? Also, got a good pic of it?

About the Purple nuts. (Sounds like a disease.) Doesn't GS make some?

- jon

[Jason_R]

Here are a few pictures of my XXX:
http://www.mlode.com/~moondanc/XXXTopshotWeb.jpg

http://www.mlode.com/~moondanc/XXXSideshotWeb.jpg

http://www.mlode.com/~moondanc/XXXFrontshotBodyoffWeb.jpg

With dirt and ALL!

[007yoshi]

Oyster- I think the carbon fiber shock tower is only a looks upgrade. Anyway, take a normal shock tower and imagine it as carbon fiber, and theres a good pic. Its actually a little brownish instead of gray.
GS does make purple alum. nuts but they are 4mm not 8-32. Unluess the thread is the same size as 8-32s, it sounds like it fits a different size axle. I need it to fit a CVD axle.

Jason_R- Nniiiiiiiice! Ya race at a muddy track?

[XXXER]

Hop ups from the KE are Titanium Ball studs, I strongly suggest losi ones, I have yet to break one of them, but, the first night I put in a Lunsford, it broke. The losi ones are a pretty penny though, 9 bucks for 2, and I suggest you get 4 of them, all in the long, long version. WHITE wheels. I use yellow personally, but, I wish I would have went with white. When you/if you get the kit, choose one color, and STICK with it, no matter what. I wish I would have gone with white, but I made my decision, and I am sticking it out. That is purely cosmetic, but, you can only go as fast as you think you can, and a hack looking car, will only get you so far.

Also, whoever bagged on the Losi Ball Cups, they are the BEST, keep them on there. The reason for your ball cups popping off from the stud, is because you obviously did not lubricate the threads of the Titanium turnbuckles. Use wax, or chapstick works in a pinch.

The plastic shock collars for the threaded bodies are good, only after a little while, then they will wear, I do not know how you feel about blue stuff, but I like it, and I suggest you get the Trinity ones.

I personally go for the all black look, bumpers, ball cups, the blue plastic does not really get me going, as much as the uniform black plastic of others. Trust me, if you want to make sure, if they know it is a real KE, they will look close enough, and respect you, for not totally trying to be like Brian Kinwald. Definately get a RPM Gear Cover, that should be black, all of the other colors(yellow, purple, blue) look like crap after a while, and their colors just do not match with any of the others.

I have never had a problem with the rear pivot block, without a valid excuse(mean case on a triple, ONE time) I have broken one to date, and the second one I have is super strong, and I hear that with the aluminum brace, it makes it pretty much indestructable. If you decide to race mod, you may want to invest in one of the Trinity ones, but, I still do not think you will have a problem with the stock one, and still, do not replace things until you break them, really. The stock shock bushings are drabby looking, and give no flare, pick up some Trinity shock bushings, they make your car a little flashier, and are super cheap. HG also makes some, if you want to go with that "Polished" aluminum look.


Whoever talked about the 4mm locknuts, and trying them with the Losi axles, they will not work. Also, the wheel nuts for the Losi dogbones, are not the same size as MIP CVD size. If you are looking to try something new, and trying to get a little extra edge, try out some plastic outdrives, and the optional Aluminum dogbones. NOTE:If you decide to go this route, you MUST run Titanium outdrive savers, they are an absolute requirement, period.

Dave, I suggest you go with the "Regular" XXX Standard set-up, available at Team Losi's website(or, it used to be, I can post it, if you need me to). Also, a variety of shock pistons, and tuning springs are suggested.

Working on my car, it is GREAT, I remove 3 screws, I have the tranny in my hands, ready for me to wrench on. The shocks are the COOLEST, after you bleed these the first time, you will wonder why everyone else does not do this. Pick up the RPM shock wrenches, they are invaluable, so your cartridges, and shock bodies do not get messed up.(refer to my cosmetic/hack job statement above for reason ;) )


If you have any other questions, bring it on.

[losifreak2004]

Wow Steve, that was good.

The electric tracks down here have brutal back-straight walls just begging to rip your pivot blocks apart. And in mod, it gets all that more violent.

The stock Losi ball studs are fine, but when you can, replace them with the Ti ones, either Losi or MIP.

Make sure you get shock bushings with the actual bushing being plastic. The metal ones will wear out the shock body.

Plastic outdrives will make your car hard to drive. On a flat fast track in stock, they are worth it. Otherwise, stick to the metal ones.

[007yoshi]

I was trying to ask if the M4 locknuts fit a CVD axle because I have shiny cvds on my buggy. I dont use the universals.

[Oyster]

XXXer, whats the part number of the titanium ball studs you're using? I'm thinking about grabbing some. :)

Thanks!

- jon

[MISTERgadget]

http://www.sgrid.com/2001/november/track-4.jpg

Miami R/C raceway is proud to announce its first race! Come on sunday, november 25th, for the JLap thanksgving turkey race. Booby moore and team mugen USA will be there. saturday is practice day from 9 am to 5pm, and sunday registration is from 7:30 to 9 am, and racing starts at 11 am. Fees are 10 for practice and 10 for the race. It promises to be a great day, so come and show support for miami's first permanent rc off road track.

http://www.sgrid.com/2001/november/track-3.jpg

http://www.sgrid.com/2001/november/track-5.jpg

visit our website for more information, including rules and directions to the track.

Miami R/C Raceway Home (http://www.geocities.com/gadgetracing/miamirc)

[n2o]

Hey guys, whats up? None of you probably remember me but I posted on this forum about 4 or 5 months ago. Kind of got busy with work and stuff and no time for the rc's.. Anyway, I am going to get my XXX KE and my FT GT back in shape and start racing. That post about upgrades for the XXX was just what I was looking for. My only other question is about a new speed control. I just bid on a cyclone c2 on ebay. Is this the best choise? Also, what cells should I get? I run stock right now but I am looking for a new battery and motor. Any ideas would be great. thanks

-n2o

[RustlerBoy]

Hey, im trying to decide on a XXXT or a XXX KE edition. I have a T3, ut i love losi. HELP!!! Are they easy to drive, work, etc?

[pdduubb]

I am fairly new to the RC racing world, having oy Traxxas RTR cars before. I bought a XXX for the purpose of racing, and it is very straight forward to build and work on. It seems the only problem I have is leaving the A arms intact after a heat or a main. But with time comes skill right. As far the hop ups go tey are right on the money. I have started out slowly only get the must have to begin with there will be plently of time for "cool to have".

The particular forum has slowed doen considerably, what would it take blow some life into it?

[losifreak2004]

An arm every heat or main? Eek, that's harsh LOL. Just be patient, it gets a whole lot easier.

n2o - For stock, the new 2400's are just the ticket. I use Trinity packs, and they run great. A P2K or MVP would be a good choice for a motor, I use P2K's and have quite a few screamers. I believe the C2 is one of the best, if not THE best ESC on the market right now.

Oyster - The Ti ballstuds are not in Losi's parts listing, I will try to find them.

[Oyster]

Losifreak, I found em with Steves help. If anyone else want's part numbers, let me know. Thanks for YOUR help, regardless.

As far as hop ups, I'd get some Lunsford Ti-rods. The "punishers" should be just fine. Then you can still use the stock Losi cups. I have yet to break a ti-rod yet. But, I have bent the stock steel ones just by looking at it wrong.

Graphite. You don't need a lot of the graphite parts. I'd go with arms, and maybe (big maybe) rear shock tower. The front bulkhead/camber link kit is a good graphite choice. Mainly because the threads are stronger. The Graphite chassis MIGHT be a good call. We'll see. I'll only be happy if it rids the side to side flex in the rear of the car. If not, I'll send it back.

CVD's are not needed. They look snazzy, but not needed. You can mod the stockers to be nice and free.

For anyone new to the land of XXX, I'd spend my extra cash on extra parts. Spacers for the front spindle and rear hub. These are handy to have. The fronts wear somewhat quick, the rears are ok. But the spacers can be used for shock limiters.

Springs, pistons and shock oil. This is a very needed item. The XXX is no fun to drive if you can't fine tune it to what you want. If your XXX doesn't do what you tell it to do, make it do what you tell it to do! This is how!

I don't see the need for many of the hop-ups that are out there, if anyone has any news or info, please share. I'm always looking for something new. :)

- jon

[XXXER]

I do not suggest the front bulkhead in graphite, Mainly, until you break the parts, is when you go for the graphite stuff. I could not get much(if any) steering out of my little buddies KE, and me and other racers agree, it is the front, it is too stiff, and lighter, so you do not get as much weight-transfer action going on. I will keep that part of my buggy stiffezel. I do like my chassis being graphite, I did notice stronger accelaration(the day I broke my stock, and bought a graphite one the same day, I either got more forward bite, or the advantage of less weight, because I could then clear the triple).

Lunsford Ti's, not only do you get a sexy look, you get strength.

I have gotten a few Trinity blue things, the front hinge pin brace, and the shock bushings. Both are worth it, in my opinion, the shock bushings are a lot smoother, and not too much money(8 bucks). Unless you have the KE, and are looking for a front brace, I like the look of the trinity one.

I run my buggy pretty much stock, I do nto have too many "Special" things.

Also, you should be able to get a screaming deal on mail-order 2400's now, wiht all of these super 3K cells, the demand for 24's have gone down. Get em now, while htey are cheap. I like SMC packs, they are awesome

-Steve

[losifreak2004]

Many people that run the graphite front bulkhead also add weight to the front of the cars. It's not needed, but it looks cool :D

At MnM and SoCal (two of the area's largest tracks, MnM has closed, however) we ran everything BUT the chassis graphite. The extra flex helps in some cases, such as high bite tracks. Also, more often than not, you will find aluminum goodies on team drivers' XXX-series cars. For the most part they handle better with a little weight.

[LosiMan3456]

XXXER- I run the shiny universals on my XXX. Do I need titanium outdrive savers? Who makes them and how much are they?

Also has anybody tried the new rear hub conversion things made by trinity? Are they worth the 70 bones? what are the advantages?

Thanks

[losifreak2004]

LosiMan - You only need the outdrive savers if you are running plastic outdrives.

The new rear conversion kit allows you to adjust roll center by adding or removing washers. It is just one more tuning option, useful on a really high bite surface, especially racing modified.

[R/Cbum4life]

Losiman where is Portage in relation to Grand Rapids? And where do you race? :confused:

[XXXER]

As Losifreak already said, you do not need to run the outdrive savers, unless you are using the plastic outdrives. Trinity makes some nice ones, and they run for 20 bucks. Get the Titanium ones, the aluminum ones have still been known to crack :o

As for the rear Trinity conversion, I am happy with the stock set-up, because, I do not have to pay money on it :) If you would like to see a similar set-up, for a LOT cheaper, and some other cool stuff(check out the body mount, it is Carbon Fiber!) go to www.skipgear.com

[losifreak2004]

You've actually had one crack?

[R/Cbum4life]

Hey Losiman I am glad to here im not the only one in all of michigan with a triple x. Where do you race and where exactly is portage and how far is it from Grand Rapids.

[n2o]

Why dont you guys talk as much as everyone else? The XXX forum is WAY at the bottom of the list.

I just got my XXX KE all put back together and ready to race. I also bought a nice 2400 Sanyo matched pack at 1.74 vpc. Any of you guys have some ideas on how I should paint my body? I want to put something on that will go with the yellow wheels and ball caps.

-n2o

[pdduubb]

I saw a real nice paint job over the weekend that has black and yellow. It reminded of the Pittsburg Steelers.

[R/Cbum4life]

I would reccomend some blue and silver and a lion b/c the detroit lions are always winning. ( yes i realize they finally won a game) Here's a joke of for you: There is a mom dad and baby lion and the mom and the dad decide to get divorced. They go to court to decide who gets custody of the baby lion so the judge asked the kid "do you want to live with your dad?" "No" he said "he beats me" the judge then asked if he would like to live with his mom and he said "no she beats too" the judge then asked "then who do you want to live with?" the baby lion replied " I want to live the detroit Lions b/c the never beat anyone."
That was good wasn't it? I'm sorry I had to get off topic but I just couldn't resist.

[losifreak2004]

I heard that last year about the Chargers......

[n2o]

Hey guys, I'm thinking of getting a mod motor and maybe running mod class in a few weeks. I have only run stock in my xxx so far. Any ideas on the turn I should get? I assume I should ask around and see what every one else is running because I dont want to be a lot slower. But I also dont want to send my xxx off a jump right into the wall.

I was thinking about a Trinity D4 11T Triple

-n2o

[losifreak2004]

Anything from the 10-13 range would be great, an 11x3 is perfect. Remember, it will be MUCH faster.

A P-94 would be good to look into also...

[LosiMan3456]

Hey sorry I didnt post in a while. Should I still get the ti outdrives anyways? I have noticed there is a little wear in the outdrives. looks like it could form a notch in the future.

R/C Bum- I race at RNL on Portage road. Go here to get directionsR&L Hobbies (http://www.rlhobbies.com)

[R/Cbum4life]

Darn thats 71 miles to far for me.

[losifreak2004]

Ti outdrives? I've heard of Ti rings for plastic outdrives........

If that's what you're referring to, then yes.

[LosiMan3456]

I think I am lost now. What are the Ti rings? My outdrives(the things that the universals or CVD's go into) are wearing a bit. Do they make Ti ones or somthing to prevenmt this? thanks!

[losifreak2004]

The stock outdrives are steel, but Losi also makes plastic ones. For these, aftermarket companies make Ti sleeves to put over the outdrives to stop them from breaking.

You can't do anything to stop that, it's going to happen. Just pick up a new pair.

[LosiMan3456]

OIC now!:D Thanks!

[Skribble]

I'm getting a KE XXX soon, and I only have a Kisbey Stock motor which I think has a lot of Torq. What's a good stock motor under $40 that has high RPM? Also, did you do any upgrades to your buggy?

And where can you get Outdrive Savers?

[losifreak2004]

Losiman - Anytime

Skribble - The P2K2 and GM3 are good high-RPM motors. I run the P2K in my XXX, and just gear the piss out of it. They have the torque to pull a higher gear.

Trinity makes aluminum ones, and I believe Lunsford makes Ti units, although I could be wrong on that one. Steve?

[Skribble]

Also, I'm wanting to cut out battery slots for the XXX to make it lighter and lower the CG. Anyone know where this can be done? I don't want to use a dremel because I'd most likey screw up my chassis.

[losifreak2004]

No! As far as lightening the chassis, it won't do much, and XXX cars handle a little better with some weight anyway. As for lowering the CG, how much lower can it get? The car already sits very low at ride height, and having the battery sitting down further is only going to make it more susceptible to slamming against the ground.

We used to do it to all the XX cars, but not even Brian Kinwald has tried it in his XXX. The performance gain just isn't worth it. Also, if the person who does it doesn't round off the corners of the holes, you will break the chassis everywhere there is a corner.

Leave the chassis in one piece :D

[Skribble]

Ok. What could I do to make my buggy as light as possible? I'm gonna be running a Birdman 3000, Cyclone 2, JR250 servo, and a Kisbey Super Stock.

[losifreak2004]

Light as possible? Will you be drag racing? Otherwise, the extra weight will help!!

All graphite parts, plastic outdrives, aluminum screws, aluminum top shaft. That should be enough.

[Skribble]

I'm going to get the Kinwald edition, so that should include the Graphite parts and Light-weight top shaft, right? I'm going to trade the the CVDs for Aluminum ones, get Aluminum pivot balls, titanium-nitride shock shafts, and try to get a Titanium screw set.

Right now I have a XXX-T, not MF. When I full throttle over a jump, it stays level as it lands, but when I let go of the throttle, it just nose dives. Do you know why it does this? Does a Buggy also do this?

[Skribble]

And how does the extra weight help? Not to be rude or anything.

[losifreak2004]

The setup could be causing that nose-dive, but so could the amount of drag brake you have in your car. The truck was designed to jump a little nose heavy so you could land on the gas. If your truck is flying nose down, pull the trigger to raise the front end. The buggy does not have as much weight up front, and the difference between the front and the rear is much greater

The extra weight thing....it's kinda hard to explain. A few of the Losi guys stumbled upon it one day at MnM. A few of the guys were running the big capacitors for the Cyclone ESC's, and then putting coins on the other side of the chassis to balance it out, and we were gaining a couple tenths a lap, and because the capacitor does nothing but save the ESC when you hit the brakes, we conjured up the idea that it was the weight. Then someone put the aluminum servo brace on, and by the end of the night, we all had the TK pivot blocks and other metal goodies, and were gaining time.

Might have something to do with the geometry that helps when there's more weight on the tires. And this helped at every track. With the XX cars the thought was to get them as light as possible. I'm not talking pounds of weight here, maybe 2-3 ounces over the ROAR legal weight.

[SirSpeedy]

Hey guys-

Just checking in.

Trinity makes both the aluminum savers and Ti also...the Ti ones are silver, the alum. ones are blue.

[Skribble]

I finally got my KE XXX. :D I built the tranny wrong though and I also fried my Cyclone 2. Don't know how. :( Gonna be a while before I get this thing running again. When I get some money I'm gonna get the Carbide Balls for the diff, Plastic outdrives, light-weight slipper plates, and Aluminum CVDs.

How much are the Outdrive savers? :confused:

[007yoshi]

14.99 - 18.99 + tax from most dealers

[Skribble]

Where can you buy them online and do I need any other upgrades?

[007yoshi]

Any store that carries Trinity Kinwald parts.

[PsychoLosiFan]

Well, finally took out my XXX:KE for a practice run today...Went okie. I strapped on a P2K2 Pro (78/23, am I gearing it a bit low?) with a LRP Quantum Comp with the mode 5 setup on the ESC.

The MIP CVD's. Is there a better alternative to these. I can't stand the little pin on those CVD's. I use thread lock and all, still end up loosing it.

I must be stupid or something, I am having issues gluing tires, do they (losi or pro line) have pre glued ones? Would make life easier on myself, my tires all out of whack and all, if not, where can I get those rubber bands for them?

[tarvymoto]

Yoshi , Try Stormer or Sheldon's.

Treadz and Losi both make pre-glued tires.

[pdduubb]

I recently bought front & rear sets.

Gluing is not something to rush through.

First you have to get the tires to set properly. Making sure that it is even all the way around the tire. By doing this you are creating a "true" or straight tire that will roll smoothly.

Once you get the tire to set properly you take your CA glue and dab it around the inside of the rim. The glue will naturely run along the inside of the rim creating a bond.

The worst part is trying to keep your forefinger and thumb from being perminently attached to one another.

I use a rubber band to confirm the bond will dry properly. But it is just a precautionary method.

[losifreak2004]

You can pick up Losi universal drive shafts. For CVD pins, try a drop or two of CA (yeah, the stuff you glue your fingers together with :p) and that should hold it better.

tarvymoto - I think Losi is just selling truck tires?

pdduubb - Nice post!

[Skribble]

Anyone using the XXX Rear Conversion from Trinity? I'm thinking about getting it but my friend that works at the Hobby shop said that it just increases traction and since the buggy already has a lot of traction it doesn't need it. Is this true?

[tarvymoto]

I forget which forum I'm in sometimes:D

[holeshot]

I have a used xxx nt, almost new. My question is, how do I service and or rebuild the ball diff? I have a blown up parts list, and I know how to take it apart. I just don’t know how to service or adjust it. I have thrust bearing grease and the grease that is used on the balls (the greases are for my Traxxas Pro Ball Diff, they should work right)? I don’t have a manual. Thanks
:confused:

[Skribble]

Uh .. This is the "XXX" forum. :p

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Ok. I have not seen this forum before, so here goes..

I bought a XXX Spec buggy on the 25th of June last year. I have yet to get it running. I am loking for good stuff to run it with. I also want to know what to get for hop-ups. should I get threadedshocks? I want them to be blue. I also want the blue screw kit. Any ideas?

[losifreak2004]

Skribble - The kit was meant for high-bite smooth tracks at high speeds. It is just another tuning option, but I don't think it's necessary. If you want to try it, that is great, but you certainly DO NOT need it to be competitive.


XXX/TC3 Racer - A full set of bearings and Ti turnbuckles should definitely be the first things to go for, along with some new springs and shock oil for tuning if you plan on racing. Threaded shocks are just a convenience, and not needed. Trinity makes a blue screw kit, but don't put these in high-stress areas, they will break!

For gear, shop around. A good stock motor (the P2K or MVP, among others) and a few cheap packs are all you need to race novice or bash around. Any Novak or LRP ESC will be just fine really, just look at them before you buy. As for radios, JR XR2's, Futaba Sport, and Airtronics CX2P will all get the job done, and the JR XR3 and R1, Futaba 3PJS, and Airtronics M8 are the higher priced models.

holeshot - Normally, you just replace the balls, rings, and give the whole thing a look over for other things to replace. Tighten it, work it back and forth, tighten it again, so on, until you can't turn the diff gear while holding the outdrives still. Then go a little further. Make sure you check it after each minute or so the first ten minutes you run it.

[ole]

which one runs faster on straights XXX-KE or XX-4 if they have the same 10 0r 11 turn motor?

[losifreak2004]

With identical overall gearing (tranny ratios and tire sizes taken into account), perfect traction for both, and the same output motors, the XXX should be faster both on acceleration and top speed, because it is much lighter. In racing, however, traction isn't always perfect, add that to the fact 4WD off-road cars are so easy to drive, and you can get away with an 8 or 9 turn motor in a XX-4, while a 10 is pushing it in a XXX.

[Skribble]

Oh man, I definately not getting the XXX rear conversion now. Just yesterday my friend was racing his XXX-NT with the conversion and busted a ball stud, clean right off the top. No chance of getting it out and 50 bucks down the drain.

[losifreak2004]

Easiest way to have a chance at getting any busted screw out of a part is to put a washer under it. Now in a place like that, even a small washer would change the suspension geometry, but when it breaks off, the washer can come off and leave you with a small portion of the stud to slot and take out with a screwdriver.

[pdduubb]

???

I have recently had a loud barking noise coming out of the diff on rollers and bumps. I tried tightening it and maybe went too far.

I opened it up to find the bearing in the middle shreaded. My ? is this:

What size should the bearing be that goes inside of the (planetary?) middle white gear that contains the indivual bearings? Or should it be a bushing? I have upgraded most every part from a XXX-Spec to a basic XXX. So my instruction manual is no longer relevant.

Once I get the right parts, how tight should I tighten it when placing the diff back into the car for starters?

I know I am asking for a bunch of info, but this is the only place besides the track where anyone know anything.

Thanks,

[tarvymoto]

sounds like it's your slipper clutch. Inspect the clutch pads for wear. If they look ok , reinstall the clutch to with the nut 4 turns out.... anyone else...Losifreak?.....Hope this helps ...Travis

[Skribble]

pdduubb, that happened to me but I wasn't driving it. It seems like the diff bearings a slightly smaller than the thing that centers the diff. Now I have to buy 2 new bearings. :(

[losifreak2004]

The bearing is a 5 mm x 8 mm standard ball bearing. There are two of these in the diff.

When tightening the diff, work it back and forth while turning it a quarter or half turn at a time. To check it, place an allen wrench in each of the outdrive halves, and try to turn the gear. If you can't, your diff is tight. If you can, keep going.

Tarvymoto had another good point, it could also be the slipper. If the pads have a shiny glaze on them, scuff them up with sandpaper, or just buy new ones :D

pdduubb - That's why we're here..... :cool:

This is Finals week, and my brain is racked enough LOL. I will finish the common parts list by Thursday night, as we don't have school Friday.

[tarvymoto]

it's staring to come along!!!

[Oyster]

Hi all! I haven't been here for a long time! Ridded AOL from my computer and am now running cable. So fast...so fast. I wish I could hook up my cable to my battery charger!! hehe...

Just checking in... anything new in the XXX world?

I think I'll go drive mine now! :)

- jon

[Skribble]

losifreak, when you said the extra weight thing, was this for Mod or Stock racing?

[R/Cbum4life]

Tarvymoto that is a really sweet looking body! Im gonna find you and steel it. (hehe)

[losifreak2004]

Skribble - Believe it or not, the extra weight helps a bit in stock also. The car feels more planted and capable of carving turns and jumping flat and straight.

For those of you with the plastic outdrives, try the steel ones. You may lose a little power-wise, but you might find the car easier to drive.

I saw a truck body at Hemet last night, it had chrome paint on it.....now THAT was sweet!

[pdduubb]

In Search OF....

I am looking for the a Chasis Brace. You know the one that hold the steering servo in place.

I have checl the LHS and they say it only comes with the chasis. I do not need a new chasis, but my brace is toast after a nasty collision with the driver's stand.

So if anyone has an extra chasis brace, I would gladly pay for it. Or if you have any idea where I could get once with having to buy a whole new chasis I would be apprecative.

[derekjr_1]

pdduubb > I think that is correct that it only comes with the chassis, and I doubt anyone will just give you one.

However. You have an option. Trinity sells one by itself. It is like 20 bux or more or something.

[XXXER]

What is new in the XXX world? I am in the market for a new buggy, and it will not be a KE, or any type of Losi. I want to make the switch, If you ever look at a well mantained FTB3, they are really sweet buggies, and I think that I would be happy to race one, just after a little bit of working with it, and practice, I am confident it will be just as good as any other buggy out there.

When this will happen, who knows, I am hoping to get a new radio(Lynx 3D Spectra/Xxtra combo) before Stock Nats, and if I got the buggy too, that would just be sweet.

Come on guys, where are you all hiding at? Come on out and tell us what is up.

[Skribble]

Don't know if there's anything new out for the XXX, but I just bought the Trinity Blue shock bushings and a Trinity screw set. :D Looks pretty nice, but it was 17 bucks for the screw set and 9 bucks for the bushings. :( Gotta get those Aluminum goodies. Sucks though I only ran my KE twice before I fried my Cyclone 2. :mad: Still gotta buy Aluminum CVDs, Trinity Lightweight Slipper Plates and Plastic Outdrives, so I gotta while to go before my buggy is complete. :cool: Goin' for the Blue & Red scheme. ;)

[tarvymoto]

We'd love to see a pic:eek:

[Skribble]

I'll get one before next week starts. I have a webcam but it's really poor quality so I'll use my friends DigiCam.

[LosiMan3456]

Hey guys! I heard some talk about wings and wanted to say some stuff about that. A really good racer at my track told me to do this...

Put a small black spacer, the ones that space the rear hubs under the wing mount. Thread it onto the bottom screw and then tighten it back up. You will see your wing in the rear will be kicked up a little. It will give better rear traction. It helped for me a lot. You may notice you wont sky off jumps as much though. TRy it and see how you like it. Peace out!

[losifreak2004]

Funny, most people mount their wing mounts in the "down" position....

Oh well, it could work!

For big downforce on sticky, fast and flat tracks, try Losi's high-downforce kit. It includes a monster rear wing, a front wing, and mounting hardware.

Aaron

[Skribble]

What kind of tires are you all running?

[pdduubb]

Please unleash your knowledge on me!!

I am looking for any information that can be given as it relates to battery care. I have recently learned a tough lesson concerning batteries. I now know that you can not expect a battery to give you five solid minutes of run time if they had been charged a little less than a week ago. I go a solid 2 ½ to 3 minutes and then they dumped.

SO if there are any good articles or the do’s and don’t as it relates to NiCad and NMH batteries, I would be greatly appreciative.

When do you put the batteries in the fridge or freezer, and does this relate to all batteries or what?

So if anyone has anything, please either post’em up or email me. Any and all info is greatly appreciated. tylyssa@hotmail.com

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I need some help. I have a XXX Spec Buggy, and I don't like the current rear end drivetrain. I want the one that the kinwald and regular buggies run. I need a new rear end. Can I get it all as a set, and where can I get it? do I need to replace the differential halves? Can I get it all as a kit? I also want to know what the benefits are to the upgraded drivetrain. I think that it would accelerate better, not flex as much and plant the power better. Please correct me if I am wrong...

[Skribble]

To switch to CVDs will cost you like $50-$70 dollars ... Outdrives, CVD Kit, and some other stuff. I read that the Sliders work well over bumpy sections.

[Skribble]

To switch to CVDs will cost you like $50-$70 dollars ... Outdrives, CVD Kit, and some other stuff. I read that the Sliders work well over bumpy sections.

[losifreak2004]

You're both right. Sliders help going through bumps, but CVD's/ dogbones put the power down better. Since most electric tracks nowadays are fairly smooth, cars benefit from a driveshaft. You will need outdrives and the CVD assembly (which can be had in one bag).

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Can I get numbers-Places to get? Cost? What it is called as a set, and who from (most likely losi)? etc...

[losifreak2004]

You could just pick them up at an LHS. Or try www.ultimatehobbies.com

MIP CVD's for the Losi XXX
Losi diff outdrives for the Losi XXX

[Skribble]

Anyone get the new Trinity Body Mount?

[losifreak2004]

The one where the rear mounts in the middle? Nah, I just use the stock mounts (yellow, of course) but don't put body clips on.

[Skribble]

Do you know how much they cost?

[losifreak2004]

*Takes a wild guess* I think they're around 6 bucks? I could be WAY off....

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Does anyone know of Drew Loftus? I love the body he runs. Does anyone have any good pics of it? Also, does anyone know who did it? Thanx....
http://www.teamlosi.com/Pictures01/ROARStock/drewXXX.jpg
http://www.teamlosi.com/Pictures01/ROARStock/Junior01.jpg

[Skribble]

I read about him in RCCA, but don't know anything about his body.

[losifreak2004]

SkipGear is the one that painted it, I believe.

Check out www.skipgear.com or www.jconcepts.net for two really good body painting companies run by racers, for racers.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Is there any close-ups of Drew Loftus' car? I really wanna see...

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Hey Skribble, any pics of your car yet? Where did you place all of the screws that came with your Blue screw kit?

As I asked before, and now I am double checking: I ONLY need to replace the outdrive cup/Diff half, and the XXX Dogbone/Driveshaft w/Yoke & screw? Is that 1 per thing? I know that it costs $7.50 (as listed in exploded view) for the Dogbone and yoke-and that only comes with one. Does the diff half also come as only one half, and that I need to get 2 of them?

[Railman]

XXX, Aarons right, that's Skip's work. Just look at the front. It says "SKIP GEAR". The odd thing is I posted a response to this right after your post! Guess it must have been deleted, because I always check to make shure my links work. :confused:
Joe

[Skribble]

Can't get a pic, sorry. :( My friend lost his program for the pictures.

It tells you where to put the screws.

2 in the wing mounts.
4 on the servo brace.
4 on the servo mounts. ( My friend borrow my servo and stripped those. :mad: )

I have 4 extra screws for the shock adjusters, which I'm gonna put on the servo because I have the Trinity Blue Shock Adjuster thing.

[PsychoLosiFan]

Hi All! Just wanted to share my new ride....

Losi XXX:KE
LRP Quantum Comp (Map 5 Setting)
M8 w/ Micro Blue Reciever
Peak Hellfire RS24 Blueprint - Looking into Putnam's Stockers.
Team Orion 3000HV's

Pretty much stock - Pink fronts and rears...

Body by Zegers...

[losifreak2004]

Sweeeeeeet!

[Skribble]

Wanted to bring the thread back to life ..

I heard that Kinwald/Francis, etc. run every other ball in their diff. Is this true? And do you get any perfomance out of this?

[TEAM xxx LOSI]

i need a mip cvd for my xxx :p

[TEAM xxx LOSI]

does ne one have em

[anothermbdusted]

skribble as to your post on the diff. I would imagine that it would reduce the rotating mass for the diff. not sure but thats my $.02:D

[LosiMan3456]

Hey Physco, how do you like the Hellfire? How does it compare to the GM3 MVP or the new P2K2? How hot does it get and how do you gear it? Thanks I might be getting one of these motors.

[anothermbdusted]

for the xxx-s do you have to use self made battery packs or can you use premade ones?and how far off the groung is the chassis? can you run it on street driven asphalt? its a pretty new street.

[R/Cbum4life]

this forum is more for the xxx buggys and not the street cars. Dont take this wrong im not mad or anything but maybe this forum will be of more help to you> http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35875&perpage=40&pagenumber=6

[PsychoLosiFan]

I absolutely love the Hellfire. I was running the P2K2. As far as gearing it - 78/23 or 24 (MAX). It was a lil tad hot for my tastes, but not a big issue. I am using Orion 3000HV's - charging them at 7amps and using LRP Quantum Comp (Map 5 setting) - Huge amount of punch.

[losifreak2004]

Skribble - Who told you that? Can you do me a favor and smack them for me?

I still can't get over the P2K for 2W Stock....mad power.

I made the mag with one! Endless Summer Classic article in the March 2002 issue of RCCA

[Skribble]

I forgot .. I'm guessing it's not true than?

7 amps? :eek: Is that safe? :confused:

[micro_man]

hey guys,

i just got my xxx today and i love it. um what is a good site online to get some graaphite parts?

is there such thing as like a upgrade for your stock xxx to make it all graphite? if there is lmk where i can get.

i been looking on ebay and horizon hobbys for graphite ***** and i cant find anything that i want. i really want the graphite chassis. if someone could tell me where to get one it would be great.

thanks guys,
Kurt:D

[losifreak2004]

Seven amps would be OK for peaking, but there is no reason to charge that high.

There's no upgrade kit for the XXX (they have one for the XXX-S)

On Losi's website they have a search for all parts; get the part numbers for what you want, then you can order through Stormer, Tower, or anything like that.

Skribble - No, the every other diff ball thing is not true.

Aaron

[Skribble]

And I actually ran it like that for several races. Atleast my diff balls aren't square.

Any using Ceramic balls in their diff?

[losifreak2004]

Skribble - I just asked Adam about that...he laughed!

Some parts are better left stock...

Aaron

[Skribble]

Who's Adam? :confused:

[losifreak2004]

*shakes head in despair*

Factory Losi/Trinity driver Adam Drake.

I will tell you something that WAS used at the WinterChamps...new B3 parts....

They didn't help much! Look at the Losi site for the top ten in each class! 5 for 5 for 5

Aaron

[Skribble]

If you said Adam Drake in the first place I would have known who were talking about. Sorry. :(

[losifreak2004]

LOL I'm just playing with ya!

I guess I kinda get a little used to referring to him as just "Adam".

Maybe..."The Drake" is a little more appropriate LOL

Aaron

[sofast]

What do you guys think of the xxx spec? As soon as i sell one of my cars I will probably be buying one.... Either that, or the ke xxx, but dont count on it.. Anyway, were can I order one?? I usually use tower for alot of my rc purchases, but they dont carey Losi kits/parts anymore..

Thanks

[micro_man]

i have a spec and i love it and it is so cheap to buy. just note that you are gonna nead ti turnbuckles, bearings, and dogbones before your set off good. you can get them at verizon hobbies or stormer hobbies for 139.00 i belive


i got a wuestion guys,
what size bearings do i need to get for the rear hub carriers? i am upgrading the car to all bearings and the rear is the only part left. lmk thanks.

[micro_man]

i also have another wuestion about batteries. i didnt dnow you werent suppos to cycle your nimh. i di it and the batteries got kinda hot. do you think i have ruined them? will it decrese run time? aslo how often should i discharge them and how low should i go until i cut it off? lmk

thanks,
Kurt

[Oyster]

After lots of testing with NIMH's... I've noticed these are much stronger cells than I thought. I've also noticed that one needs not to discharge them after a run. The cells really don't care. They lose a little punch if you don't run them for a week or so, but after a couple natural cycles they are back up to par. I've noticed some decrease in the runtime department, but the voltage is still awesome.

What kills these cells are major abuse. The same thing that kills any cell. As RC racers and bashers, we abuse cells to no end. Overcharging NIMH's will kill their run times. They do, however, jump back a little with some TLC. Like anything though, if you abuse them to the point of no return, they're gone.

One of my packs has been overcharged three times now. And, boy did they get HOT! And because of my screwup's, that one pack is not as good as it's brothers. But alas, it still works, and gives me enough runtime to race it. I bought these packs on 7-15 of last year and they're still running great!

Batteries, believe it or not, like to be used. That is their purpose. It's worse for a battery to sit there, then be charged, then discharged, then sit again. One day I'll have to build a float system. Until then, my batteries get to sit on my desk... waiting for this snow to leave my hometown.

-jon

[Nairb]

The bearings for Losi hubs are 3/16"x3/8" and I think the sec car will be fine with the stock sliders for a while. If you want to upgrade to steel universals, I'd install Losi ones over CVDs, but that's just my choice.

I totally love my SMH batts. Yes, they definitely lose runtime over months of use, but their voltage increases (which gives you more punch) and who needs gobs of runtime anyway? I don't... FYI, most of my SMHs only accept around 2400 mAh now... See what I mean? They still rock, though. I discharge them every time I use them (with an Integy Octame 30 amp discharger) and I charge them with my Millennium Pros.

verizon hobbies? LOL! I think you mean "Horizon Hobbies." Personally, I'd go with Stormer.