Losi XXX Forum v1.0

[micro_man]

oh my bad, i did mean to say Horizon. any way this really sucks, today i was driving my xxx and all of a sudden it just stopped moving. the motor could still turn but the gears werent catching. so, i tood it in and checked out the gearbox and sure enough the gear on the diff had broken. the inside where the pressure is applied by the halves of the diff was sepperated from all of the teath. so now i need a new gear. does anyone know what the part number for it so i can order it? lmk

thanks,
Kurt

[sofast]

Can any of you post pics of their buggy for me??
Thanks

[sofast]

micro_man


This is the part number i have...

A-3036 2.43:1 Diff Gear............... $2.50

Go to their site, www.teamlosi.com and look at the exploded view of the xxx.... it has a part numbers, prices, and of course the exploded view....

[2nd Gear]

I sat here and read for a long ***** time just to see you guys dont come here no more?:eek: :confused: :p to heck with ya's then!!lol,I just got a XXXKE so there.

[micro_man]

you want me to post a pic sofast? or who are you talking to? lmk i can get a pic of it if you want:rolleyes:

later

[2nd Gear]

I was kidding but when I checked to see how old this thread was I looked at the date which people was registered LOL man you guys been here awhile.:D LOL It was supposed to be funny sorry.:( :eek:

[sofast]

I would like for you, and everyone else that can too.:)

Thanks

ps. was that the right part number?

[micro_man]

yeah i wont be able to post pics till mon. um is anyone in here looking into buying an xxx? i am trying to sell mine so i can get a kinwald editio. it is listed in the buy sell trade forum if you want to check it out.:D

thanks,
Kurt

[micro_man]

i dont know about the # i havn checked yet. i am going to sell the car with it broke and include the money for it to be fixed.

later

[UberGamer256]

Hey guys... im new to the XXX Forum :) I got a XXX about a month ago. Ran it on a not-so-local track last Sunday and had a BLAST. It wasnt set up right but was still running good. Im planning on going this Sunday and metting up with some friends (including makaluch) and they are gonna help set it up :) Ill keep ya posted...

[sofast]

Ive got a problem.... ill have $195 to spend on my xxx. What besides the kit should I get?

[Gutter Ball]

I picked up a XXX too! Shoulda got the Kinwald, but it's for stock oval, so the kit (not spec) should be okay. I'll read through all the posts after I build the thing. $195 to spend? Wooo, depends on what you need! Do you have a controller, batteries and charger yet?

[sofast]

Yeah. I think ill save a little more, and get a good ESC.

[DR.GT]

Gutterball:

How's the XX-4 doing? I just finished building my
new XXX KE. I think they should have included "Blue Screws" with it, aftercall it is a KE. It is and will be a nice car for racing this summer no doubt. I'm not sure on the blue rims though, it kinda puts a cramp on my usual color scheme.LOL.

[Gutter Ball]

DR: The XX4 is partially back together! I ordered some belt rollers, a new rear belt and 2 new thrust screws/bolts 'cause the diffs felt a bit loose. I'm still waiting for my XXX!!! Hopefully it'll be here Monday :)

[sofast]

What is a good online shop to buy my xxx? Im looking to find the cheapest/most reliable place.

Thanks


PS. I may be getting the ke instead of the spec:D

[Gutter Ball]

Good choice! Go for the Kinwald!! Well, since Horizon sets the price, I'm guessing they'll probably have the cheapest price :)

[sofast]

239.99....... Is it worth the exta 100 to get all the graphite parts? Does the ke come with alum screws? Im pretty sure im going to buy the ke:p Should be able within the next 2 weeks:D

Thanks

[DR.GT]

sofast:

The best bang for the dollar is the XXXKE. You get all you need to win anywhere(except for driving ability). I just finished building mine and I must say it is a very nice car indeed.

[Skribble]

The Spec XXX here is $130, the XXX is $170-180, and the KE is $199. :p

[Gutter Ball]

Oooo, your LHS is UNDERSELLING Horizon Hobby?!?!?! They're not going to like that :) The KE has almost all the upgrades you'll ever need. For my Matt Francis, I just needed...or WANTED: RPM ballcups and gear cover! I already got the gear cover, but I wanna see if they'll make red ballcups before I get the black ones. $199 for a Kinwald is the cheapest I've seen.

[UberGamer256]

Any info on your LHS? Website?

[Skribble]

Racers-Haven.com .. It goes to up to $209 every now and than. The MF is also $209. For some reason our LHS sells some of the kits cheaper than other places. Some stuff is more expensive.

[Skribble]

The site mainly has miscellaneous stuff. The LHS is located in Bakersfield, California.

[losifreak2004]

Ross! What up?

The whole point of LHS's selling kits for less than retail is exactly that; to discourage them from buying direct. That's why everything else is sold at retail. Horizon encourages LHS's to "undersell" them.

[Gutter Ball]

Okay, I just got my XXX!! I took it apart to clean it up and now I'm stuck. It didn't come with a manual and I can't find one anywhere. This might seem silly, but for the rear arms, do they go on the proper sides (the one marked "L" goes on the left side, left pivot)? Or are they switched around?? I'm only asking because those are the same arms on my XX4 and for the XXCR conversion, the left arm goes on the right side and the right arm goes on the left side. :confused:

[Skribble]

Well, I guess you should put them on the way you did with your XX-4 and XX-CR since it fitted. There's a L on it? I didn't have a L on mine .. :confused:

[Oyster]

The a-arms can be either side. Just as long as they aren't upsidedown. :) The "L" I think you're refering to is on the hub carrier.

- jon

[Gutter Ball]

That's what I was thinking...I should put them on reversed, but what if Losi "fixed" it so that right should go on right and left should go on left?? Anybody got the manual?

[Oyster]

Not sure what you mean by "reversed"... the a-arms are made to be either side... same with the fronts. The hub carriers on the other hand should face the right way. Ball stud forward, the little L or R should face to the rear. One way to know, if the camber rod hits the shock/spring, they're backwards. If this doesn't help you, I can scan the manual off for you, or take pics of my XXX. Either way, we'll get you runnin!

-jon

[Gutter Ball]

Oyster: The XX4 WE uses the same rear arms, but you have to put them on the opposite side they were intended for...that's why I'm wondering if the XXX has them set up the same way. The rear arms I have are marked "L" and "R" and they appear to be the exactly the same. Eh, I just put them on the proper way ("R" on the right side) and everything appears to be correct :) Thanks all.

[Oyster]

Weird man. I knew the XX4 and XXX shared the same arms, but mine do not have L or R on them... strange. Glad you're up and running though, hope to see some pics of yer new ride!

-jon

[makaluch]

Hey guys ! I recently jumped on the buggy bandwagon. I picked up a Kinwald Edition and took it out for an all day practice. I'm stoked about this buggy. It actually feels more similar to my truck than any other buggy I've driven. Anyway, I was wondering if any of you guys could point me to a great setup that would work on a smooth, flowing, indoor track. It's the tricks I'm after really... necessary upgrades,anti-squat, rear toe-in, limiters, ballstud washers and all that stuff. Also how do you change the caster ? Can you kick up the front pivot block or something ? Where is stock caster ?

Sorry for the 101 questions, but like the title says...I'm a newbie to buggy. I've got a manual on the way so I'm sure that'll help. Option parts are where I'm fallin short. Thanks guys ! Later

:p Mark

[DR.GT]

Gutter Ball:

The rear arms go on the so that the Graphite label is facing the back of the car and the thick recessed area in the arm is on the bottom to allow the CVD's or universals room to rotate and not bind. And yes put the left & right carriers on their respective sides. The letters will be facing backwards on the carriers towards the rear of the car when properly installed.

hope this helps...

[losifreak2004]

Mark - Go hit up the Losi site for a starting setup. If Adam's NT setup worked for you, you'll love his buggy one :D

When you are ready to adjust caster, I'll let you know. :p

(Note: Losi drivers discourage "changing caster" as the effects are minimal and the average club racer will tune himself right off the track. It is only used in severe cases when there is no other way to get the desired effect.)

DR.GT - Why do my rear arms have the graphite on the front? LOL Just kidding man. The rear arms are exactly the same, and can be put on both sides.

[Skribble]

Matt Francis says you will have .01 faster lap times when you run the "Graphite" word upside on your A-Arms. ;) ;) ;)

[makaluch]

Gotcha on that caster tip...:rolleyes: I experimented with caster on my XR Mugen and it didn't help me much. There are so many other adjustments that make more sense to change and are more noticable.

I was told that the Kinwald's position setup (ROAR) works best on our track with the shock setup being Matt Francis style...light and limited with ends unscrewed 2 turns in the rear. There are slight variations to this setup that are just driver preference and stock to mod.

I've noticed that the speed control is an INCREDIBLE tuning tool as well. I have complete setups from a few buddies at TRCR and have driven a few different trucks (I know...this is the buggy thread...lol). Piont being that two of the trucks were identically setup(?camber) and the esc's were custom Novak and LRP Quantum (mod chip) and the ride was considerably different. I think it has something to do with the speed of the weight transfer. Hmmm.

[losifreak2004]

Uh oh, Mark's thinking too hard again! LOL

Yeah, that could be it, but next time you do that, have a buddy on the side of the track with a stopwatch. Find a free day to go to the track and try a bunch of different setups, and find one that suits your driving style. For me, all of Adam's setup ideas seem to fit me very well.

Skribble - Nah, that's only so you can advertise Losi's "Graphite" while you're upside down!

Aaron

[Skribble]

Lol. :D

[losifreak2004]

BIG inside joke.....along with the whole "red" thing.

(Inside note, Matt doesn't even use the Red wheels. They're too dark and don't let you see what the tire's are doing. Ditto for Brian and the blue wheels.)

[makaluch]

:confused: :( :eek: :( ;)

I hate when I think too much !!! LOL...

I took 3rd in the A-Main yesterday with the buggy ! Pulled a 13 5:08 and the leader was at 14 5:18. Not too bad for just getting into the buggy...I think...hehehe. Those guys get crazy with the simple green and buggy grip though...jeez. Maybe after I'm racing a while I'll start that stuff. But it's just pure fun for me right now. With those times I was told I'm a front runner in the B-Main on a super-competitive night. I had an old Green Machine in too...probably over-geared too...hehehe. I just didn't wanna change anything mid-race...this stuff is just FUN AS HELL !!!

Talk later guys...I think...:D

[losifreak2004]

LOL makaluch.

Although buggy grip WILL make your car easier to drive... and put a good motor in there!

And yes, RC is fun, that's why we do it :p

[PsychoLosiFan]

Okie, I understand the whole buggy grip thing, added traction, but I don't understand the Simple Green thing?

Also I was getting some other ideas about setups and what not at my local track..

1. Why stuff the the losi fronts with rear foams?
2. Why take a dremel and shave the tires down?

I should have asked this at my track, but I don't know - I feel silly sometimes asking...but I know its the best thing to do.

Also..

Still blowing the pin off the CVD's ... Happend again.

Also does anyone use those shims in the rear under the gearbox? Was thinking about taking those out, not sure it will make a difference...

Any other suggestions for some rear traction?? Using Losi pink right now (also everyone using them at the track).

Lates All....

[Skribble]

2. Why take a dremel and shave the tires down?

My friend does this to balance his tires. My other friend just sticks screws and bolts they're balance.

[makaluch]

Simple Green is the best cleaner for your tires. It takes them back to like new and makes 'em sticky...it conditions the rubber.

Shims go under the pivot block not the tranny. This is called anti-squat.

Use loctite on the setscrew and CVD boots help too. I don't use the boots because I just prefer to keep an eye on them.

[losifreak2004]

PsychoLosiFan - Rear foams stuffed in front tires will make the tire hold its form more, and on a packed sticky track will give your more aggressive steering, as the tire will not roll over.

Shaving the tread off on a super sticky clay track will allow more rubber to be in contact with the track.

Try one degree rear hubs.

Skribble - Shaves what part of the tire to balance them?

The best way to balance tires is with lead tape from a local motorcycle shop. Cut however much you need, and stick it on the rim. Tah-dah! (I reccommend the Matt Francis tire balancer from Trinity).

Cleaning tires, I have never really used Simple Green, I've heard it can eat the foam. I use water and a very soft brush. Then, when applying traction compound, use the applicator that comes with the bottle to get the tire wet, then scrub the tire with an old tooth brush to get the gooey stuff into the tire. If you really wanna get "hooked up" put a few sets of tires in a large ZipLock bag, and spray a few quick squirts of Zip Grip in the bag, and suck the air out of the bag before you seal it.

Loctite or even a little CA should help keep your CVD pins in check.

Anything else?
Aaron

[Skribble]

He dremels slightly the inside of the wheel until it's balanced ..

[Ray]

I would just like to say hats off to Losi. I purchased a XXX KE kit and had numerous missing pieces. Nothing major, just a pain. Some of the stuff I had (I have a XX "CR" and AE T3). I called Losi and complained. They got right back with me, had me give them the part numbers I were missing, and they are shipping everything out to me. I could not have asked for better service. The car looks awesome and well made. My son drives, so I can't wait for this Saturday for our season here to get started. I have been reading all the posts for info and I appreciate everbody who contributes. I have got a wealth of info and feel like the car is well prepared for the racing season. Thanks to all.

[losifreak2004]

Skribble - OK, I thought you were talking part of the tire! *cringes*

Ray - Welcome to the board! There is an overwhelming amount of information on this board, and it's worth the time to read all of it!

Although 99% of your questions I'm sure are already answered somewhere on here, you (and anyone else) should feel free to e-mail me with whatever question/chitchat/idea you have, and I'll get back to you.

I'm also glad to hear you were pleased with Losi's customer support. Bill Goldsmith is a class act, and they aren't in the business for no reason!

(Check it out, this issue of CarAction has some of my advice in it!)

Aaron

[UberGamer256]

This is from this last Sat. Copyed from another board.

Whoohoo!! My first real race today.. i went in 2wd stock with the
other two kids my age there. They have massive track time.. but i was able to pull 2nd place in the main out of three! Eric was lapin me a few times though!!

Man we had fun... I would have gone alot faster if i had some batts that had higher voltage (getting some within a week). I have really old Pannie 3000's.. they are the first gens and have NO voltage lol.

[Casper]

I know this is not really XXX related but since the whole tire balancing thing has been going on I will put my two cents in. Poster puddy (KMart, Walmart, Target) $0.99 a pack works great for balancing tires and if you reuse rims the stuff comes off easy enough to not have to worry about it. This is what Drake uses. Also I use the Top Flight magnetic Prop balancer. Yes it will support Truck tires witout any problem. It will give you a better balance and is only $20 (found at a LHS that does planes). The MF one is good but not worth the extra $30 to me. Neither one of these will do front buggy tires but you can actually do a pretty good job with these on the car. Mount the tire on your car and balance it using the cars bearings.

[losifreak2004]

Ross - HAHA

Casper - That's a great idea.....but Adam normally uses lead tape, he had just run out a few times and started using the putty.

[Casper]

Ok if you say so. I asked him what he uses to balance tires and he told be poster puddy. I think it is cheaper and and easier to adjust then lead tape. Just my opinion though. I like the screws and bolts that fancis uses but glue and screws are expensive compared to puddy for us normal folk! :)

[Northerner]

has anyone heard of or been using the Trinity XXX rear end conversion? it comes with new-geometry rear hubs, cvd's and axles.

it is supposed to make your buggy accelerate straighter and drive flatter through turns with easier handling?

if anyone has any info on these please let me know?
thanks!

[Casper]

The CRE conversion is for realy high bite conditions from what they tell me. I have not seen a lot of guys use it yet. If you are running slicks or can run slicks then I would try it. Other then that I think it might be a waste of your money.

[Skribble]

If you do run the XXX Rear Conversion, place a small washer beneath the ballstud so just in case that ballstud breaks, a little but of it will be hanging off so you can still take it off.

[Northerner]

hey thanks skribble, thats a really good tip!!

[Skribble]

Don't give the credit to me. I asked about the same question earlier in the thread and I forgot who said that tip.

[Casper]

Skribble-- You should put two washers under the balls stud to make it "stock" hieght. You can take washers out or add washers as a tuning aid. Also for what it is worth since the load that will break the ball off is at the hub itself and not at the washer you probably will not get what you hoped with a little extra stud if it does break because of a washer. I have learned from experience that this usually does not work. I would strongly recommend that you spend the extra dough and get titanium ball studs if you run alum hubs.

[losifreak2004]

Skribble - ;)

Casper - I've seen Adam use putty on club tires, yeah, but every set he's given me all have the tape on them.

That, and I can get lots of it for cheap, so it's just what I choose.

Good stuff on the Rear Conversion.

And the point of putting the washer under the stud isn't to spread the weight out and stop it from breaking, just an attempt to keep enough material outside the hub to slot and take out with a screwdriver. It works, I've had it save a couple rear shock towers.

[LosiMan3456]

Are you guys talking about the trinity blue rear hubs or the Skip gear rear conversion? Oh yeah a guy at my LHS ran the blue trinity rear conversion and put washers under his ball stud and it still broke cleanly of in his hub. He was really mad. Which conversion do you recommend? The skip gear one or the trinity one? Are either of them even worth the money? Thanks!

Oh yeah BTW, Which tire balance do all you guys use? I was thinking of the MF one but that is really expensive. I will be balancing my XXX tires and XXX-T tires(both front and rear)

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

what are those nuts that BK runs on his threaded shocks? He uses two each shock, to prevent the first one from backing out...

[Skribble]

I think they're one piece .. I'm also using the Trinity Shock Collars but it looks like half of a one BK is running.

[Gutter Ball]

Actually it's 2 of the Trinity Shock collars. The top one is just turned upside down. I use the Trinity aluminum pivot on my XXX-T only because it can take a lot more abuse.

[losifreak2004]

LosiMan - How big was the washer? It should be a little larger than the ballstud (the part of the stud that pushes against the washer). Hopefully, the washer will rip off on top of the washer instead of below it.

They're talking about the Trinity conversion, which has different hubs and CVD's to change the geometry. The SkipGear conversion uses the stock hubs and only provides another tuning aid.

[LosiMan3456]

ok thanks guys! He had two washers under it. I am not sure what kind but it still broke cleanly off.

[Northerner]

i still havent really heard from anyone who is running the trinity rear conversion kit? if anyone has it, please let me know how it works for you?

and can anyone tell me if wheels and springs for a double x losi (XX) are the same as or will work on a triple x (XXX)???


any help would be great!
thanks

[Gutter Ball]

I'm not running the conversion (yet :) ), but I am using XX rims on my XXX. I like the 5 star pattern waaaaay better than the dish. I'm not at home right now, but I am sure that the shocks on the XX and XXX are the same size so the springs are interchangeable.

[losifreak2004]

(Note: The dish wheels are slightly lighter and stronger than the five spokes)

The XXX rear shock shafts are 1.0" and the XX ones are .9", but yeah, other than that they use all the same parts, including springs.

[AssociatedRacer]

just like to say i have a XXX KE and race at SoCal R/C Raceway.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I too have been looking into getting this rear conversion. Right now my XXX Spec is stock as far as the rear end goes. I want to get dogbones(?), but I don't know about this kit.
Anyone have any insight? Is it worth the money? I hear that it breaks alot, and isn't worth it...

I have looked into getting the HPI buggy off road wheels, for my XXX. I looked at the back to see if it would fit, but all I see are instructions. It also comes with adapters for kyosho, associated, and losi. Is it for older losis? Will they work for the XXX? I am sick of seeing the same old wheels everywhere I go for buggies. I think there should be more out there....

Later, I will post what I curently own for my Buggy, and what I will get for it. This includes mods.... :)

[tarvymoto]

how can I get more side bite for the buggy? I just lowered the rear roll center by removing a washer. Any thing else? One track I where I race is very slick on power and requires alot of steering off power. Thanks
Travis

[UberGamer256]

Aaron.. FYI.. your in the newest RCCA mag ;) Congrats.. start putitng TeamURC.com in your sig... LOL!!!

[makaluch]

Tarvymoto - try these tips...maybe one at a time:

1: softer spring/oil in the front and/or rear
2: raise the rear ride height a tad
3: be ritual with tire cleaning and buggy grip
4: less camber front and rear (1/2degree)
5: try playing with a little drag brake...r u in mod or stock ?

I'm sure there's more you can try (positional setup), but I try the simple things before I get nuts with positions. I'm pretty close to one of Kinwald's setups when he was on a track similar to mine.

[UberGamer256]

Tarvy, Loosen slipper, Run Taper pins rear and pro-line dash tires up front. Clean and apply Tire Grip (trinity) to all 4 tires every other or every run.

That should help you some. And putting your arms a little below level might help too. I run on a very slick track too and rear traction has never been very good for me. But the above has helped lots.

[tarvymoto]

AT this particular track EVERYONE runs m3 hole shots in the rear. I do clean the tires w/ simple grn/ water mx after every run. It's the kind of track were your tires don't pack w/ clay , they just get dusty. I'll try some buggy grip and a softer spring in the rear . I'm using a pink spring , 25wt , and .5* camber at the moment.

Travis

[losifreak2004]

You guys are thinking too hard!

Travis - Should be as simple as moving the shocks out one hole on the top. Are you running the low-profile Holeshots? Those might hook up even more straightline also. If you are running 2 degrees anti-squat right now (no washers under block), I'll find the thickness of the washers it takes to get one degree (factory secret! Shh! LOL). Less anti-squat should give you slightly better side-bite during entry-to-mid corner.

Ross - I saw that! But if I advertise another site, they might not be so kind LOL!

TEAMLOSIRACER - I'll have to make it up there and race with you some time! What's your name?

XXX/TC3 Racer - I personally don't think the rear conversion is worth the money for club racing, the car works great stock. I can reccomend CVD's though! I haven't heard about any different wheels though....sorry.

Hey guys, as Ross said, check out http://www.teamurc.com ! We (and when I say we, I mean Ross LOL, I just do the easy stuff) have been working on it for quite some time now, and it's getting pretty big! Stop by and check it out!

Aaron

[tarvymoto]

Yeah I'm running the Holeshot LP's. Putting power down upon exit of larger radius turns is where the rear end wants to come around. If I'm squared up coming off a corner I'm ok.

[losifreak2004]

What are you geared at? (Might sound like a funny question, I'll explain later LOL)

How much anti-squat?

Also, you could try tightening your diff down a little

Ah, the fun of tuning when you have no clue what's going on HAHA

Aaron

[makaluch]

I think Aaron's on with the tighter diff. Might even try a 1/2 degree of toe-out. What front tires are you using ?

[losifreak2004]

Mark - Toe-out will make the car turn in harder. If the thing is loose halfway through a big sweeper, it's in the fence by the exit LOL. If he has 1 degree of toe-in now though, that wouldn't be a bad idea to only try 1/2, but I really don't think that'd have much to do with it.

This MIGHT be the time to start messing with caster, if none of this other stuff helps.......*insert dramatic music here*

LOL!

Aaron

[makaluch]

oh DUH...correction noted. Toe in actually breaks the outside threshold sooner and turns on the inside tire...plus it plows slightly which keeps the nose in the suspension stroke a tad. Negative effect is that toe-in is twitchy at speed...don't quote me though. Aaron seems to have come from the Adam Drake's School of Speed, so he's got the doctorate...lol !!:D

[losifreak2004]

Doctorate HAHA. I believe his correct title is Adam Drake, M.D.? :p

On the twitchiness note, it is toe-out that feels twitchy and "wandery" at high speeds. Because toe-in causes the front end to plow (much like skiing), you remain in much better control (when the front end is on the ground, anyway!).

[R/Cbum4life]

Can some one describe caster for me. I know camber and toe but how do you adjust the camber?

[losifreak2004]

Caster is the angle between the kingpin (veritcal hingepin that the steering block pivots on) and the ground. It is not really supposed to be adjusted on the XXX, as most people that do mess with it get themselves in more trouble than anything when they start messing with it.

Factory drivers will turn to changing caster only as a last resort, because the only way to change it requires messing with the whole geometry of the front end.

Aaron

[tarvymoto]

Ah, the fun of tuning when you have no clue what's going on HAHA

Aaron [/B][/QUOTE]

Not a very profesional comment coming from someone that solicates questions. tisk tisk

[makaluch]

Aaron - Travis is very knowledgable. He just put a generic question out there to get a few ideas about off-road AAANNNDDD to help a few others. You're slippin a little with the extra comments.:rolleyes:

[losifreak2004]

I know Travis knows what he's doing. I just can't see first hand how the cars reacting to whatever changes are made. It could be that he has to let off a little to settle the car before turning into the sweeper, and too much weight in transfering forward, or even that he has too much dragbrake and when he lets off, the rear tires lock up. He could be running a gear ratio that pushes his motor too far back, and the momentum of all the weight is pulling the rear end around. There could be a slight drop in elevation that's unloading the suspension. He could be railing the corner so quickly that the outside rear tire is overloaded, the foam squirms inside the tire, and he spins out. It could be a million things.

I didn't mean it to sound like I don't know what I'm talking about, I was just referring to how much easier it would be if I was actually there watching him drive around the track.

There's also a million things he could try. A wing with larger side dams. Different tires, different foam inserts. Stuffing truck foams into a buggy tire to support the sidewall and stop the foam from squirming when the tire gets overloaded. He could run a thin rear swaybar to keep both rear tires planted when he slides through the corner. He could tighten the diff to help him square up the corner (which is what I would do), or he could loosen it and try to round it off more.

He could move the rear shocks out on the arm or the tower. He could try lengthening the rear camber link (no matter what the setup sheets say, most factory drivers like Matt and Brian run positive camber on all their XXX series cars), but the preferred way to do that would be moving it in on the tower or out on the hub. He could run more pack (smaller piston and/or thicker oil, usually more straightline traction) in the rear to stop weight transfer to the rear and put more pressure on the tire if the problem is in transition from turning to straight, or less pack (larger piston and/or thinner oil, usually better sidebite) if the problem is when the car is still turning.

The problem with the the stuff in the last bit of mumbo-jumbo is that it will probably affect the rest of your setup, and you'll have to make a change up front to get the balance of your car back.

Mark - Is that enough random thoughts? HAHAHA

Aaron

[tarvymoto]

it was a simple miss comunication. I thought you were infering I had no clue. I realize now that you didn't didn't know enough about the conditions ect.. Anyway I do appreciate the help and in the future I can try and paint a better picture of the situation if I need some help. :) I've gathered some great info from you and Mark that I'll use next time I at that particular track.

Travis

[tarvymoto]

My base setup for the XXX buggy is BK's Mod Nats set-up(at Minreg 2001) I use this one because I usually race offroad in FL where most tracks are generally a tad soft but usually develope a nice groove. I am from FL but I currently live in NY(still get down to FL all the time...5-6 times a year..anyway

The track where I requested the help for is in NJ (Family Hobbies in Vineland) which is VERY hard pack (the guy that owns the track has sculpted the track into a rutless masterpiece, every jump has a perfect face ..ect) . He doesn't allow practice during the week and only opens the track 1.5 hours before racing starts.The first race of the season(and my first time ever at this track) was held in cold conditions. The track was slick , not really taking rubber and alittle tricky even for the locals(the pace was off by about 3 laps if that tells you anything). Plus I was racing 2 classes and didn't have enough time to really tune(the fact that I was freezing my a$$ of contibuted to that to). I do have one of the smoothes throttle fingers around;) but I still had a tuff time. Ithink Iwas a bit over damped for the temp and traction.

Anyway , my friend that is a local there said the traction gets much better after a few races and the temp warms up. It was humbling to struggle that weekend after I just got back from FL where I qualified 3rd and finished the same(w/my NT) at a rack that I raced at for the first time too.

The expirience has taught me how to adapt more quikly to track conditions.
Travis

[losifreak2004]

It's all good, no harm, no foul. That's the problem with talking through typing, you can't see facial expressions

I hate racing when it's cold! Not only does the track get slick, your throttle finger gets stiff and it's hard to be smooth LOL. To give you any indication of how bad it sucks, this most recent Dirt Nitro Challenge, the track was FROZEN during practice LOL.

When the temperature drops that much, it is safe to drop 2.5 or even 5 weight. And putting your tires next to a heater actually works LOL.

Are you running the larger high-downforce rear wing?

Aaron

[tarvymoto]

I just installed the high downforce nose wing(front traction was scarce heading into turns aswell , and will probable put the rear wing on . I also glued up a set of 4wd front tapers to the wide buggy front wheels(one of the local guys was DIALED w/ that set up. He also had Silver front springs & Yellow rear. I was running Grn & Pink

BTW whats the aptmnt w/ the neuro surgen(sp) all about?

[losifreak2004]

The rear wing will probably help. The Taper Pins on the front will give you slightly more steering, but it will also smooth out steering. It'll only work when the track is super hard packed, which it sounds like it is.

Silver and yellow? Stock setup? LOL

I have a cyst inside my brain that's nearly the size of a women's softball, and it's always caused problems, including putting me into a coma for three days when I was six years old. I've been having horribly severe headaches for the last ten days (doped up on 800mg of Advil every hour). The neurosurgeon today said "my professional opinion would be to go in and fix it within the next two weeks."

We'll see how it goes
Aaron

[makaluch]

I hope things get better for ya Aaron (no headache !!). Best wishes to you with your medical situation. You'll be in my prayers.

Good work guys ! It really is tough to help with handling problems through bulletin boards. There are just too many variables. I'm glad you can use some of the feedback though Travis. I'm sure you'll find a way to get that track dialed in.

[losifreak2004]

Today is the tenth day, I can't imagine a day without a headache! LOL

They have me taking 800 mg per hour of Advil if I need it, but don't want me on anything stronger, because they want me to be able to tell if something is seriously wrong.

Thanks for the kind words, it actually helps a lot. I have the best doctors in Southern California, but it's still hard.

Travis - Good luck with getting your car to work! LOL, lemme know how it shakes out

Aaron

[tarvymoto]

with all the stuff you have going on at a personal level you have a good heart to help out others. I too wish you nothing but the best and you'll be in my prayers as well....not just cause I need some tuning advice..lol
Travis

[losifreak2004]

Thanks Travis!

The doctors won't let me go to school or leave the house really. They want me sitting down, with my head slightly tilted back, and it whatever position is comfortable. So I dragged a big poofy chair in front of my computer, might as well make sure people are having fun with their cars, and it kills boredom too! I'm actually wearing very lightly tinted sunglasses, and my computer volume is about 13% right now, just because light and sound SUCK.

LOL

Aaron

[Gutter Ball]

I hope you get better soon.

[losifreak2004]

Thanks Gutter Ball!

[Railman]

Aaron, I wish you the best, my thoughts & prayers are with you. Keep a positive attitude, & it'll all work out.;) :)
Joe

[losifreak2004]

*wipes tear from cheek* That was beautiful!

LOL seriously, it helps a lot to know I have people's support!

Aaron

[Gutter Ball]

Yah, lots of us don't really know you...but there is a feeling of "community" here so lots of people are pulling for you :)

[tarvymoto]

Aaron will get past this thing. Knowing Aaron(and his parents for that matter..apple doesn't fall far from the tree) he has got Docs that are all over it. Aaron if you need anything ... you just say so. Theres alot of us that are here for you bro.

[AssociatedRacer]

anyone know a good setup up for SoCal R/C Raceway...??im using stock KE setup...

[losifreak2004]

Travis - Yeah, my parents are being pretty funny about this whole thing. Nothing is just "good enough" and have gotten the best doctors in CA on the ball right now to get stuff done.

Now that I think about it, there's not one person on this forum I've ever seen before LOL. About the only person I talk to somewhat regularly is Mark. Any of you guys can feel free to talk to me on AIM! My screen name right now is Lindsays Coconut (girlfriend-induced nickname) if I haven't changed my profile yet...

TEAMLOSIRACER - Adam Drake's standard setup from the Losi website is what he runs at SoCal, so you could use that. But even better, next time you're at the track, go ask him in person. Tell him Aaron Waldron sent ya ;)

Aaron

[AssociatedRacer]

Drake doesnt race at socal much..its mainly brain kinwald, ryan cavelira, and some local guys...

o ya...do you know what shock piston/limiter on a XXX KE? also would mod make a difference in setup?

[losifreak2004]

Yeah, Mr. Nitro Guy is always trying to beat me at Hemet HAHA, but I heard he goes to SoCal a lot before electric races. With the Worlds coming up, I'm sure he'll be there some time soon.

If he's not there, talk to Todd Hodge, Greg Hodapp, or one of the Monise brothers. I know all the Losi drivers there from racing with them, and they'll all help you out. Even Brian if you want to gain the guts to talk to him LOL.

Heck, if you really wanna be funny, go talk to Andrew Swanson. He was recently picked up by AE/Reedy, but he's a really cool kid and had raced Losi cars up until then. Tell him I sent you and he'll hook you up.

Aaron

[AssociatedRacer]

is that guy the short kid with freckles red hair? He sold me a useless wrench and told me it works...then later said it doesnt...

i talked to brian before...but he kind of seemed annoyed...

[losifreak2004]

Short kid with freckles and red hair? The only one I can think of that fits that description is Ryan Cavalieri LOL, but I don't think he'd sell you anything.

Andrew is about 6'0" or 6'1" and BIG. He'll surely be wearing a Reedy/AE shirt, but he'll still help you.

Brian might seem annoyed, but he just isn't someone that goes out of his way to be in the public spotlight, just likes to keep to himself. He will answer your questions though, he's still a cool guy.

Also, Trever Adamo is always a big help. Trinity/Losi driver that's tall and skinny, and wears glasses.

Aaron

[AssociatedRacer]

trever works at hobby people right?

[losifreak2004]

LOL, I have no clue if he does or not. I've never heard that he works at Hobby People, but he might.

Aaron

[sofast]

Wow, looks like all new people in this forum!!
I know you guys dont want to hear this, but with a p94 10-13t double motor, how fast would the xxx be?

The reason I ask is: Ive been into nitro mostly, and I REALLY like the xxx kit, but I dont know if the speed would satify me. I dont want to spend the money, and find out im not....

Thanks!,
Craig

[makaluch]

I am also coming from nitro and didn't think I'd like electric much. I picked up a few just to keep me driving through these long Washington winters. But I've come to enjoy it more than gas.

Modified buggies are super-quick ! They are so quick that you actually have to change your driving style coming from gas. In electric you're looking for acceleration on the backside of jumps and actually have to come off the gas, in alot of cases, on the face of jumps...especially with mods.

The reason for the change is because the powerband effect. Electrics are super-smooth and pull when you pull. There's not as much instant torque. They might not have the pure top-end that an engine does, but they'll get there quicker on a medium sized track. On a large track you'll probably be disapointed. Electrics are also lighter so they don't turn too well at top speed.

The upside to larger tracks is that everyone racing mod buggy also will have the same problem

[sofast]

What kind of speed (mph) can I expect from a mod xxx on say a parking lot? I will race on a track, but would also just bash with it.......

[losifreak2004]

Craig - You will NOT be disappointed!

Electric racing is a whole new ballgame from nitro. Everything is MUCH more precise. In gas racing, if you finish the race there's a good chance you did well. Electric racing is pushing yourself as hard as you can for five minutes. Stock racing is VERY competitive, with the field being so close as far as power, the driver that carries the most speed while maintaining a decent line will finish well.

Modified is a different animal. When you pull the trigger, there's no waiting for a clutch to engage, no powerband to climb before the engine gets "on the pipe". You have a slipper clutch, tirespin, and your finger. Instant power. Trucks have been known to wheelie over onto their roofs. 2WD buggies are insane rockets. At the old Ranch Pit Shop (site of the 1997 Worlds) Modified trucks were on par with gas trucks down the back straight, and 2WD buggies were quite a bit faster. This was a 170' straight. With the new batteries and motors available now, electric cars are faster than ever. With a top of the line setup (motor, batteries, ESC, etc.) and the correct gearing, 40-45 MPH in race trim would not be too hard to come by.

Does that answer what you were lookin for?
Aaron

[sofast]

Originally posted by losifreak2004
With a top of the line setup (motor, batteries, ESC, etc.) and the correct gearing, 40-45 MPH in race trim would not be too hard to come by.
Does that answer what you were lookin for?
Aaron

What kind of "top of the line setup"? I dont want to spend to much to make it go fast..... Thats why I got into nitro in the first place. Ive had 3 electice cars/trucks, and were semi happy with thier speed. Well I really liked the speed from my direct drive car(went about 40 with a 16t lol).......

Ok, id be pretty happy with it, if it went about 30-35mph.... Can you give me some examples of what motors/ gearing I would need to accomplish this?

Thanks
Craig

ps. I do have expierence with esc's so I know what Ill need to get for the motor I buy;)

[losifreak2004]

Well, you can't expect speed of light from a 1500 Sport Pack and a Machine wound mod. If you're looking to be competitive in racing, three or four 3000 Ultra Metal Hydride Packs or 2400's, a 11x2 P-94, and a Novak C2 (which is what I would recommend for ANYTHING) would keep your towards the front of the field for a long time. Those are cream of the crop.

Stock racing is a blast though, and 2400's with a P2K is what I think is the way to go. Go this route and you're saving about 100 bucks. You should still expect speeds around 30 MPH, and with a light and fast reacting buggy, this is about the second most fun you could have on a track (Mod being the most fun, of course :p)

[AssociatedRacer]

after a usual inspection of my car...i looked at the (rear)pivot block...and notest it broke all the way threw were the screw went(the bottom left one if your looking from the top)

is this unusual or no biggy? also should i buy aluminum/metal/whatever ones? or just stock?

thnx...

[sofast]

Originally posted by losifreak2004
Well, you can't expect speed of light from a 1500 Sport Pack and a Machine wound mod. If you're looking to be competitive in racing, three or four 3000 Ultra Metal Hydride Packs or 2400's, a 11x2 P-94, and a Novak C2 (which is what I would recommend for ANYTHING) would keep your towards the front of the field for a long time. Those are cream of the crop.

Stock racing is a blast though, and 2400's with a P2K is what I think is the way to go. Go this route and you're saving about 100 bucks. You should still expect speeds around 30 MPH, and with a light and fast reacting buggy, this is about the second most fun you could have on a track (Mod being the most fun, of course :p)


That right there is the info I was looking for!
A p2k would be that fast in a buggy?!?! Wow, Im going to like this buggy thing:D

Thanks again for the info! Im going to be picking me up an xxx as soon as have all the $$$ required!

Ps. I heard they quite making the normall kit. Just spec and Kinwald now. Is this true? If so, do you guys think they are coming out with a new buggy?

Thanks
Craig

[AssociatedRacer]

i doubt it...but still i say cough up the money and get the kinwald edition...wont be dissapointed...makes ur car faster too...cuz its lighter...

[sofast]

LOL.... I may end up trading for my friends "amost kinwald" xxx. Its all graphite......

[losifreak2004]

Craig - I'm only here to help LOL. And yes, they have stopped selling the normal kit, only to help produce more of the KE and Spec kits. There really is no need for the normal kit, most people either get the Spec kit and spend more $$$ for other stuff, or spring for the KE right away.

Many people don't think the P2K would work in a 2WD buggy because of all the torque. I see this as a perfect oppurtunity to gear higher than normal, because the motor has the torque to pull it. I've had four P2K's and they all were rockets.

Aaron

[PsychoLosiFan]

Ok. I got in some practice time today....

1. I had 4 Team Orion 3000HV's. I used them the entire time, cells seemed to get better after each run...

I charged @ 7A...
Let cells cool down...
Dis @ 30A...
Trayed them on Trinity 2 board....

2. I am having a rear traction problem, I don't know if it's the ESC (LRP Quantum Comp) setting (Mega Punch setting) or another setting. I am running Losi pink front and rear, took the shims out from the rear. I guess the real problem is as soon as I gun it - wheel spins like nuts before it takes off.

I used to run the Hellfire's but swicthed back to P2K2's - They are growing on me. I am going to be checking out Team Orion's stocker's next....

Lates...

[Gutter Ball]

I've noticed that 3000's tend to run better the second or third time you run them too! But since there isn't enough cool down time between races to charge them up again, I just use 2400's. For your traction problem, either ease up on the throttle when you take off or loosen the slipper. I run orange springs on the front and yellow on the back with 25wt oil all around. How did you manage to squeeze those pink springs on the front?!?! I don't think Losi makes a shorter pink spring.

[PsychoLosiFan]

Sorry, Pink tires...

[losifreak2004]

I heard that Ni-MH batteries increase in voltage slightly the second run of the day.

PsychoLosiFan - Are you running CVD's? Try one-degree hubs, available from Losi.

You race at SoCal right? What tires are you using? Taper Pins?

[AssociatedRacer]

i took apart my diff case to do a regular inspection, and was about to spray it with Buggy Blast. I then read in the manual not to? is there a reason why. And also... how do i maintain the stuff in the diff case? Rebuild everything? i also noticeed that the diff was not that smooth...how do i rebuild it and what stuff do i need to relube?(and what can i spray with motor spray[buggy blast])

[Oyster]

Here is a "re-print" of my message to another member in another thread...

...Then, follow these instructions, and you'll have a perfect Losi diff for many years to come.

First off, clean everything, of course. Then get a sheet of 400 grit sandpaper. First sand down the washers for the thrust bearing. Lightly press the washer to the sandpaper, and make small circles with each washer. What you should come out with is a nice smooth uniform washer. Be sure to keep it flat. Wash with electric cleaner.

Next, do the same with the diff rings. Only this time, use your outdrive to keep the ring flat. Just put your diff ring down, and then put the outdrive on top of it, and apply equal pressure while you're again making small circles. Do this until the ring is uniform. Do the same to the other diff ring, then clean everything again.

Next, put the diff together, and use 10 washers, instead of the stock 6. This will give you more feel, and better adjustment. Next, snug it up. Then hold the diff gear, and turn the outdrive, slowly. Snug it up a little more, and turn the outdrive. Repeat the steps until the diff is somewhat tight, but not TOO tight. You'll have to get the feel of when the screw is getting tight. You certainly don't want to over tighten again, this causes many problems, as you know. Again, you'll have to feel when the screw get's tighter... Once it does, stop and spin the diff. Then slowly tighten again. Once it's tight, back off 12 degrees. 12 degrees is easy to find, just look thru the outdrive and turn the assembly so the screw slot is up and down, then turn the screw to "11 oclock". It should be perfect.

If you did it right, you'll have a nice snug diff, that is smooth as silk. As long as you don't slip the diff, or get dirt in it, you'll have a smooth diff for many races. If you slip the diff even once, you've worn the rings, and need to rebuild. This is because you've introduced small pieces of metal, usually from the rings, into the diff lube. This will tear up a diff quick!

Confused? It's easy. Once you get it down pat, you'll be a diff God!

Good luck, and I hope this helped!

-jon

PS. I don't know why you'd spray the whole tranny with buggy blast. You should take everything apart to clean it. Each part needs to be free of dirt, and gunk. spraying does not mean it'll be clean, it takes some time. Believe me, it's worth it.

[AssociatedRacer]

thnx for the help oyster....and hopefully ill be seeing u at socal soon? anyone...i dont know whats going on with me
ive been wanting a on-road car lately...and dont know if i want to sell my XXX KE to get a tc3...what should i do!

[losifreak2004]

I make sure the diff is tight enough by holding the outdrives still with allen wrenchs and trying to turn the diff gear. If the gear turns, it will slip in the car. Tighten until the gear won't turn. Simple.

TEAMLOSIRACER - No! On-road is no fun! HAHA. And a TC-3? WHY?

No, seriously. If you can win at off-road, you can win at on-road. If traveling at quite a bit faster speed sounds more fun, then TC is the way to go. Personally, I enjoy jumping my cars!

Also, in on-road, you must be more precise. Everything has to be "perfect" or at least closer to it. Best thing to do would be to give it a try and see what you like. Or you could safe enough $$$ to have both :-D


Aaron

[AssociatedRacer]

what i really want to do is get into offroad nitro truck...They seem the funest...but the tracks are to far...What is the closet nitro truck track to SoCal? BTW how do the RC10GT FT and XXXNT DE compare?

[makaluch]

I am a Losi driver, but have had this comparison discussion with a few guys that have changed over from AE.

I've been told that the AE trucks are for a more aggressive style. They require a heavier throttle and brake finger. You need to drive super-aggressive to be fast but it will perform if your skills are good. They prefer to be thrown around the track.

Losi trucks are very smooth and stable. There is no need to push really hard to be fast. You can keep better momentum through the entire track. In general, the XXX NT's are more stable and predictable. Drive 'em however you like and you'll be up front !

[losifreak2004]

The closest tracks to SoCal are Extreme RPM in Grand Terrace (www.extremerpmracing.com) and The Dirt in Hemet, CA (www.thedirtracing.com).

The GT is known to have a little more of a push, and most often suits drivers that tend to push harder. The truck is also slightly more durable.

The Losi truck feels more planted both front and rear, and fits drivers who seem to drive more calmly, and don't require pushing to yield fast lap times. The truck's durability has been questioned by some owners, however.

That answer your question?

Aaron

[sofast]

xxx or xx4? I cant seem to find an xxx (to trade for my 1/8) but have had offers for an xx-4.... What do you guys think?

[AssociatedRacer]

how do i clean the bearings? can i use motor spray? then do i have to relube them?

[makaluch]

Use motor spray and RPM's bearing blaster...then relube with a light bearing oil...one drop.

XX-4's are the fastest thing on most tracks...but fragile because of the quickness, speed and front axles. They can be expensive.

[losifreak2004]

TEAMLOSIRACER - While the RPM bearing cleaner does a good job of what it was designed for, you can get the same effect from buying a jar of you favorite baby food (the peach stuff ROCKS) and using the old jar to clean bearings (after you wash it out really well!). Just fill the jar 3/4 of the way full or so, drop your bearings in, and shake it like an earthquake. Then take them out, get one more good shot at them with motor spray, relube like Mark referred to, and run them!

sofast - The XXX is more durable, easier to find parts for (most replacement parts for the XX-4 have been discontinued) and there's more of a racing class for 2WD buggies.

Losi will have a new 4WD buggy shortly (the XXX-4). Both buggies will be easier to drive on a smooth track, but may seem slower with a stock motor.

I'd go for the XXX.

Mark - Thanks for picking that one up!

Anything else?

Aaron

[makaluch]

Aaron - What do you use to fill the jar ? Kerosene was a good cleaner for the MX bike chains. Would that be useful because of it's high oil content...maybe even deisel ?

Motor spray's kinda steep for something like that. I'm thinking it'll evaporate after a few days.

[hd_nitro]

Can you guys suggest a good battery setup for my xxx ke. Im not sure what Im going to get. I pretty much get stuff all at towerhobbies.

Please let me know.

[hd_nitro]

Also heck while im here. How about motor and esc as well.... ;)

Happy motoring...

[AssociatedRacer]

get a 7.1 or Cyclone 2....one of those should be good...stock get p2k, mod not so sure. For batteries...make sure u got a charger that handles nimhs, and get 3000SMH and 3000HV...and maybe some 2400 sanyos too...

[Railman]

I would be afraid to use a glass jar to shake up bearings in. In my younger days, it was a common thing to put a single 1/4 pebble in a glass soda bottle, & shake it till the bottom fell off. It's amazing how easy it is! Anyway, I find that 35mm film canisters work great for cleaning bearings, & it doesn't take a lot of kerosine to clean with either. If you only use digital cameras, I guess your sol! :rolleyes: Just my $.02
Joe

[hd_nitro]

How does this setup sound.

Battery: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=LXAEA8&P=7
Trinity Zip Metal Hydride - 2500 mah - $27

Motor: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=LXJX17&P=7
Trinity Speed Gem2 - 14T double turn - $29

ESC: Associated F1 Power ESC w/Reverse - $71
Handles a 13T motor
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=LXPB65&P=7

Do you think this setup is good?

[losifreak2004]

Railman - I thought about that too, but my dad has been doing that for years.

Mark - I just use motor spray, although kerosene or diesel fuel would work. Kerosene might make things a little gummy though?

The big trick with bearings is removing the dust seals, cleaning everything really well, and lubing them up with a LIGHT oil. Then clean them every one-two runs LOL.

hd - I am personally a Novak fan, and the C2 is a GREAT ESC. The Millenium Pro can program the C2, is NiMH safe, and has all kinds of adjustments.

If you plan on stock racing, the P2K is the motor to have. For Mod, a Trinity P-94 (something in the 12x2 to 10x2 range). 2400's are great for stock racing, but competitive Mod classes require 3000's. I would pick up some of the new Trinity Ultra Metal Hydrides.

Anything else?
Aaron

[hd_nitro]

How fast can a p2k get?

[losifreak2004]

hd - MPH wise? About 25-30 if you gear it right.

Aaron

[LosiMan3456]

Hey guys, sup?
I have a couple questions for ya. I am racing this M.A.R.S.(michigan auto racing series) and this is the first time i have really raced outdoors in dirt and sand. How can I seal my tranny better to keep out dirt? The tracks get real rutted and dirty and my tranny gets a little gritty after about 2-3 runs. What can i do to stop this?

The handout motors for stock are Fantom MVP's. I need some tuning tips for these. They arent my favorite motors but atleast everyone has to use them!(BTW it is the mvp not fantom:p ) Anyways I have run these before and they get hot and feel flat towards the end of the race. How should i gear also. What can I do?

Thanks for all your help. Oh I will be running the MVP in my truck too, just in case if there is any difference in the way I should tune.

Sofast- I just got a P-94 13t 2 and a 10t 2 for my XXX. I havent raced it yet but going up and down my street tells me this thing flies. My guess is about 40-45 MPH. You wont be disappointed:D

[AssociatedRacer]

Wow, its starting to look like Matt Francis is taking over. Brian Kinwald keeps getting 2nd to Matt Francis..

[losifreak2004]

TEAMLOSIRACER - You're right, Matt Francis is the 2002 IFMAR World Champion! Congratulations to Losi, Trinity, and Matt on the win!

LosiMan - Run a thin bead of lube around the rim of one side of the tranny cases before you put them together, and then wipe the excess grease off the case when you have bolted it together. Use the blue dust seals that come with the kit around the outdrives and thrust bearing. That should be all you need.

Try Reedy 767 brushes on the MVP...you'll like it :D

Aaron

[AssociatedRacer]

Losi is the best.

[losifreak2004]

Amen to that!

Aaron

[AssociatedRacer]

What spur should i use for a 23 tooth pinion for a 10x2 d4 mod?

[Mr.X]

Hey, I have a XXXKE and I love it.
I am running a Orion Core stock a LRP Pro Sport IPC, and a futaba radio.

~Later

[Casper]

Originally posted by TEAMLOSIRACER
i took apart my diff case to do a regular inspection, and was about to spray it with Buggy Blast. I then read in the manual not to? is there a reason why. And also... how do i maintain the stuff in the diff case? Rebuild everything? i also noticeed that the diff was not that smooth...how do i rebuild it and what stuff do i need to relube?(and what can i spray with motor spray[buggy blast])

The reason you do not use motor spray on the tranny case is that motor spray will attack most plastics. It is not good for lexan either. It would not be the end of the world if you spray out the case halves but they will probably turn white and they may become weaker by spraying them. There are some motor sprays that say they are plastic safe but to be on the safe side I would not do it. :)

[Casper]

Originally posted by TEAMLOSIRACER
anyone know a good setup up for SoCal R/C Raceway...??im using stock KE setup...

Stock setup should work fine.

Let me see if I can remember what my setup is right now.

Front: silver springs, #2 top of tower inside on bottom. Camber either #2 with one washer or #3 with 2 washers. stock outside. Shocks 27.5 with 56.

Rear: pink springs, #3 on top outside on the bottom, camber middle hole on tower and outside on the hubs. (I actually run the trinity rear hubs and have the ballstud lowered by one washer but stock outside works well also) 27.5 with 55 in the shocks.

All stock limiters. Hubs centered caster blocks spaced stock. Wing down.

Tires: I almost swear by Pink X-2000 with grey bomb one foam. In the front either silver with grey bomb one or pink with grey bomb one. Pink will give you more steering then silver but depending on how the track is you will want both. IF you need to choose one I would go with Silver. Pink can be a little twichy.

[Casper]

Originally posted by TEAMLOSIRACER
trever works at hobby people right?

Yeah Trever works for hobby poeple. It is kind of funny because he is sponsered by a company they do not sell stuff from (Losi) so he has to sell AE stuff all day! :p

[Casper]

Originally posted by sofast



That right there is the info I was looking for!
A p2k would be that fast in a buggy?!?! Wow, Im going to like this buggy thing:D

Thanks again for the info! Im going to be picking me up an xxx as soon as have all the $$$ required!

Ps. I heard they quite making the normall kit. Just spec and Kinwald now. Is this true? If so, do you guys think they are coming out with a new buggy?

Thanks
Craig

I would actually recommend a P2K2 for a buggy. A little more RPM does not hurt with the lighter cars. The Hellfires/Core stock motors work really well also. Stock buggy is a heck of a lot of fun. The new 3000 (stock metal, ultra metal, HV) work well in stock also and you get the benefits from not having NiCd memory. The 2400's can be found a lot cheaper though and are just as good.

[Casper]

Originally posted by PsychoLosiFan

2. I am having a rear traction problem, I don't know if it's the ESC (LRP Quantum Comp) setting (Mega Punch setting) or another setting. I am running Losi pink front and rear, took the shims out from the rear. I guess the real problem is as soon as I gun it - wheel spins like nuts before it takes off.

I used to run the Hellfire's but swicthed back to P2K2's - They are growing on me. I am going to be checking out Team Orion's stocker's next....

Lates...

Rear traction probles. I would loosen up the rear end. Go to a larger rear piston (55) and a little lighter on the shock oil. If you are racing at So Cal it can get a little bumpy and you want the rear end to stay on the ground. Also if you are running mod then mega punch is probably not the best setting. Also a quick fix would be to take it off that setting and maybe loosening your slipper a little. Is the rear end comming around at high speed or exiting the truns or is it just all around loose?

[Casper]

Oh one other thing. The Hellfire and the Core are the exact same motor with different brushes I think. they may have the same brushes even but I believe the Core tuned motor comes with better brushes. My point is they are the same. Gear the Hellfire/Core the same as you would an MVP. I suggest 22/82 in a buggy. These are high RPM motor. I really like the P2K2's also as a great motor for both truck and buggy but the new peak/orion motors are growing on me.:D

[Casper]

Originally posted by TEAMLOSIRACER
What spur should i use for a 23 tooth pinion for a 10x2 d4 mod?

I would start gearinga 10T motor at 18/82. This is a ratio of 4.555:1. You would need to run a 104 spur to get that same ratio. I would just buy a new pinion! :) That is 48 pitch though. If you are running BK pitch I would still try and get that 4.555:1 ratio

[AssociatedRacer]

i have that white spur that comes with the ke, but nothing smaller then like 20 works on it..the spur is just to small...

[Casper]

I know that the stock KE spur is the white 78 spur but I replaced it with the yellow 82 because of the gearing problem. The 78 is the wrong gear to run for most Mod racing. Kinwald and others used to use the Spur gear to move the motor fwd or back to tune the balance of the car. I am not sure what size kinwald really runs these days but he uses the BK pitch gears. If you gear 23/78 with a 10 turn you will be over geared. Most guys run 11-13 (mostly 12-13) in 2wd so you can get away with the smaller spur for most motors but I just switched to an 82 and that solved all my problems.

[losifreak2004]

Wow!

Aaron

[Casper]

Wow what? :D

[AssociatedRacer]

Casper: thats the gearing i run stock, just didnt want to go buy another spur, i think im going to dremel the screw holes so i can scoot the motor closer...

[makaluch]

Your motor position is dictated by the size of your spur...smaller spur gets you closer. You can mess with the pinion/spur relationship alittle to get closer. There's no need to dremel anything. Just flip a few bucks on a bunch of spurs and pinions...lol.

[AssociatedRacer]

Flip a few bucks? Im not made of money!:D

[Casper]

A spur is a whole $3.50. I have heard of guys dremaling the holes on the motor plate to get more movement. I have also been told that the trinity motor plate (why more expensive then a new spur) has longer holes for more motor adustment. That is just an FYI. Also depending on how long you have had your car you probably could use a new spur buy now anyway. It is up to you though.

[LosiMan3456]

I have the same problem. I just got a new 13t 2 and my motor wont scoot in any farther. I was running 20/96 BK. but I can go up to a 21 or 22. I have a 10 turn tho. If I got a 100 or 98 spur BK would that solve my probs?

Casper: Are u positive on the trinity plate being bigger(the holes)? I might go to that too. Well actually, how hard would it be to dremel it? I dont need much room, just like a mm or 2

[Casper]

No I am not positive that the trinity one has longer adjustment holes. I was told that but If you are not willing to buy a larger spur then the $30 for a new motor plate is not going to be all that appealing. I think it would not be that hard to dremel the hole. It is only aluminum. If you can see one at your LHS compare it to a stock one.

[losifreak2004]

LOL, Casper, it is OK to take a breath!

Aaron

[AssociatedRacer]

how many made a transponder mount?

[Casper]

I bought the Trinity transponder mount becasue I was too lazy to make one my self but looking at the worlds web pages there is picture of a transponder mount made out of lexan. I will do that once the trinity one breaks (it will just a matter of time) and I will use some extra lexan from a body to make one. They are not that hard to do. One thing is though you will probably need to move the receiver as far fwd next to the antenna mount to fit a transponder behind it in a XXX. The XXX-T has more room so it is not as big a deal.

[losifreak2004]

I have the lexan-style one in both my cars. They're just a do-it-once and forget about it kind of thing.

Aaron

[Gutter Ball]

I just drill a hole in the windshields :) I should probably get/make a mount of some sort though.

[sofast]

Hey guys... Just lettin you know, im still trying to get an xxx....

I had another unexpected thing come up......

Heh.... I kind of ran one today.... I wasnt actually controlling it lol....

We have to take my finals (for school) today and tommorow...
Anway, i was in the gym all day.. My friend kyle had his xxx, and everything to run it except the transmiter.... So i got the bright idea of "hot wiring" it.... Heh, I locked the steering all the way to the left, and let it go full wot.... It ran nice circles all over the gym very fast... heh it was cool... Tommorow hes bringing his xxx everything to run it (5 3000 packs) and his charger.... We dont have any classes tommorow, so we are going to be running his xxx all day around the school.... He can charge his batteries from his car (real car) so we can run all day...

Now for the coolest part...... With graduation in like 3 days, they have these HUGE ramps (you walk up ect... for graduation) and we are going to move both sides and make a HUGE double.... that should be great!!!

Oh, and the reason we can do all this is becuase we are NOT suppervised!!!

Anyway... My xxx should be coming soon!! Woohoo, I love this buggy!!!

[AssociatedRacer]

man ur lucky, i think im gonna take my stuff to school..NOT...always supervised. THat would be awesome to take it to graduation...

[hd_nitro]

What do you guys reccomend for a 14T speedgem double.... Also im thinking on getting a motor that is real efficient like a stock motor but with bearings , should I just go with like a 17t p-94 brush motor next time...?

Also what can be done with broken / cracked graphite? I screwed up the piece that holds the steering in place and on the chassis...

[Casper]

Since I usually paint a new body for a big race it hurts me to have to put a whole in it for a transponder just to have it staring at me for the next couple months at club races. Mounts are VERY easy to make and keep your nice bodies in good shape.

[PsychoLosiFan]

losifreak2004 -"Try one-degree hubs, available from Losi."

You know the Losi part # ??

Thanks....

Also anyone else running a Quantum Comp ESC and running stock?? I am looking at the Mega Punch setting...just wondering what you all might have it set at....

[sofast]

Originally posted by TEAMLOSIRACER
man ur lucky, i think im gonna take my stuff to school..NOT...always supervised. THat would be awesome to take it to graduation... \


Man that was fun!!!! Except we eventually took it outside (in the rain) and we burnt up a reciever....... Oh well.

Heh, he was running a 17t motor, and that thing was pretty fast! I cant wait for him to get the p-94 12t double...

This was the first time i had ever driven a buggy.... I was doing powerslides that were like a 20ft radius..... I was awesome sliding that thing around!! The handling was great!

I can wait to get one of my own.....:D

[AssociatedRacer]

what is the AUX function on a m8?

[losifreak2004]

hd - Today's 19 turn motors are efficient AND use bearings...good fun. Gear these a tooth or two lower than you would gear a stock motor, and you'll be fine.

Cracked graphite will be weaker than it was stock, no matter what you do to it. Some shoe-goo on susceptible parts is not a bad idea though...

For a 14 turn motor, try a 17-18 tooth pinion.

PsychoLosiFan and TeamLosiRacer - I'll get to your questions when I get home...I don't have the resources here at school LOL

Aaron

[AssociatedRacer]

tisk tisk aaron....why arent u studying?:D

[tarvymoto]

set your Quantum punch control on 5 (max) for stock racing.

[Gutter Ball]

Okay, I'm hopin' one of you can help me out. You know those 2 body clips in the back? Well my big hands can't get in there to pull them out fast enough. It's really a pain in the butt after a race trying to get the body off so I can return the transponder and marshall. Is there a better way to hold the body on???

[makaluch]

I run the motor wires through the tower and they slightly push the body tight on the pins...and then just "forget to put the clips in ." I'm not sure if it's a good idea or not, but I've never lost a body. I cut the post holes pretty snug when I trim the body too.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I learned to use velcro to hold the body on in the back. I even use it on the sides, to keep it tightly fit. That way, the dirt will stay out, and it will snuggly fit. You can even get it in black, to match the chassis...

[Casper]

I usually only put one pin in the rear. I put it on the right side of the car so I can get the body up to turn the car one without damaging the body. I "stretch" or rip the left body hole if I turn the car on with that pin in place. I also learned to put the pins in from the top down. This way to get the pin out easy I can just push up from the bottom with a finger and the pin "shoots" up and theh body can come right off. I then put the pin on the wing and take out the transponder. This works well for me. A lot of guys use the velcro thing also. One other thing to try would be to use Racers edge rear body mount. This attaches to extra holes for the wing mounts and allows you to have a body clip on the top of the body. It is up to you but these are some good alternatives. (I think the Racers edge part is about $12)

[Gutter Ball]

Casper: Woot, that Racer's Edge part was just what I needed!! Have one on the way...lol, too bad I didn't think to just push the pin from underneath before :) Sucker just pops right out of there with no problem. Ah well...thanks!

[Ray]

I have never used body pins in the back. My son drives and the car takes a beating and we have never had the body come off. I just make sure that the holes are pretty snug on the pins.

[Casper]

Ray-- you are right but if the wholes do get loose or you run a transponder in the body I would rather be safe then sorry. I only run one on the back for club races and put both of them on for big races. It is and easy fix to a potential problem that when dealing with murphy's law you like to play the odds on in your favor! :)

[losifreak2004]

Wow would you look at that! All my posts got deleted!

Aaron Waldron

[tarvymoto]

Aaron , I started to make a comment about that then thought better of it:eek:

[Gutter Ball]

Errrr...I still see your name.

[losifreak2004]

Travis - Yeah, I've been thinkin about that too

Gutter Ball - Not sure what that was?

Aaron Waldron

[Gutter Ball]

Hahaha, probably a glitch when they did their maintenance.

[losifreak2004]

No, it wasn't a glitch...

Aaron Waldron

[tarvymoto]

Aaron , I would set your "signiture" up like you had it ..just don't use hotlinks.

A.W. team panther , urc.com

[losifreak2004]

Travis - Good idea!

Aaron Waldron
TeamURC Executive and Panther Tire Team Driver

[PsychoLosiFan]

Hi all..

I was wondering what is the best method for tire maintence after a race, I am lazy and just get 3-4 sets and clean them at home, starting to get a bit too much $$$.

Also, buggy grip 2, how or when should that be applied? Right before heat, right after cleaning tires?

Also, I wish losi would come out with pre-glued tires for the off road buggy's, I hate gluing...

:(

[tarvymoto]

PsychoLosifan , I use a Simple green/ water solution and a srub brush to clean tires. Srub them up and then rinse them off w/ water and try not to get the water inside the rim so that it gets into the foam inserts. Simple green does a great job of getting the tires tacky. I believe buggy grip is a softener and should be applied 15-30minutes before the race(enough time to let it dry) Wipe off any excess. As far as glue goes , I use the purple CA or a medium thick tire glue and some beafy rubber bands. The medium thick glue gives you a bit more time to seat the tire and gives you a better bond. I glue the inside bead , seat the tire on the rim , put the rubber band on , and then run an additional bead of glue on the outside of the tire/wheel . Reglue as needed after race days. Bring a small bucket to the track for a simple green/water soultion to clean in between heats as needed. Just roll the wheel around w/ just the rubber getting wet to clean the tires....dry 'm off and you're set to rip up the next heat.

Travis

[Casper]

Simple green and water works great as does just water. Get a small trash can to take to the track and a utility brush from the 99 cent store. Dipping the brush in the bucket of water brush all the dirt off your tires. DO NOT DIP THE TIRES! After you wash the tires dry them off with a towel. I tend to not use tire sauce for outdoor tracks but if and when I do use it I put it on about 30 min before my race so it can dry. Like travis said.

[Casper]

Small trash can like one for a bathroom. Just wanted to clarify that. A mob bucket works well also. So Cal raceway has buckets for you and they use 5 gallon paint buckets which do a great job also.

[racer13]

I'm getting an xxx kinwald edition on monday from a trade. i was wondering how much i could sell it for? i MIGHT replace the chassis, because the person drilled 4 holes for the receiver, because he wanted to zip-tie it down.. i just need to pay back my dad.. since i owe him.. about 300 dollors :D

[Casper]

A rolling chassis depending on how good a shape is not worth more then $100. I would put it on ebay as this is your best chance to get top dollar the quickest.

[racer13]

the car is accually in very good condition. i got offered $160 for it already.

[Casper]

Does it have eletronics? $160 is a great deal for a rolling chassis. (for you that is! LOL) :p

[racer13]

That's with NO electronics. i dunno. i might keep it. im getting the buggy, a Novak C2, three 2400's, one 3000 pack, a P-94, Reedy MVP, and thats all.. i already have a speed control, motor, and few batt packs. all i need is another receiver, and servo and im set.

[makaluch]

In general...is it better to setup a buggy light up front or in the back ?

I've checked out a few setups and noticed that alot of them use the same weight oil front and back or 1/2 step variations lightening BOTH the front and rear... meaning some are lighter up front and some lighter out back. So what's the general rule for 2wd buggies ?

[tarvymoto]

Mark , depends on how much grip the track has and how tight or open it is. In general , I would say the front need a lighter "feel" (when pushing on the suspension). I usually use the same weight oil for both front and back. good question though. Aaron , give us your thoughts..hehe

[Casper]

I usually have the rear lighter then the front for bumpy tracks but if the track is smooth I usually keep things about even.

[Gutter Ball]

Okay XXX gurus, I'm in need of help. I recently put the CRE coversion and lightened slipper plates on and I lowered my buggy so the arms are slightly tilted up. At this weekends races, the back end kept sliding out on me in the turns when I was slightly on power. Last weekend, I was taking the turns at almost full power. No problem, I just raised the front end a bit (about 5 full turns on the threaded shocks). Next race, the car was pushing a bit more, so I raised the rear about 3 full turns on the threaded shocks. I'm running orange springs on the front and yellows on the rear, shock positions are stock and I'm using 25 weight oil all around. This car is for stock oval only. How do I get my buggy to drive nice again?? Should I ditch the CRE conversion? Raise the ride height again? Mess with lighter/heavier oil? I was a full 2 laps slower this weekend. :(

[tarvymoto]

Gutter ball , for oval try leaning all of the shocks in on the towers to the innermost hole. Next on the left rear a-arm , move the shock mount to the inner hole. I would use a stiffer spring in the rear and use a red spring for your right front. After that just set your arms to be level in the front and rear. Give it a shot.

Sometimes I run my XXXTMF on an oval track that is slightly banked. I use 3 oranges and a right front red , then the shock mounts from above.

[Casper]

The CRE conversion is only for extreme high bite to keep the car level. You rear rid hight may be too low but more then likely the CRE conversion is not the hot ticket for oval. I am not sure about oval but for normal racing your front end should be level and your rear should be just below level.

[tarvymoto]

Gutter Ball , is the track you run on indoors or out? If it grooves up the CRE may be the ticket. I use the regular 0* trinity aluminum hubs on my truck and use the outer hole(longer camber link) to keep it flat. The tracks that I race on in Syracuse are highbite and groove up. If your track is flat and or dusty , I agree w/ Casper ....lose the CRE

[crono man]

do you guys know when it is necessary(track condition) to put sway bars on a xxx?

i dont see alot of people using them

[Gutter Ball]

Casper: I thought it might have been too low as well, so I took out a spacer from each shock to get it back up a bit.

Tarv: We run outdoors on a slightly banked track....I just saw the race order, the 1/8 guys ran two races before us so the extra dirt they kicked up probably contributed to my sliding. The last few weeks we raced before they did so we got the benefit of a little less dust.

So the track condition will vary depending on who races first. The track gets swept and rewatered between rounds, but the guys towards the end get a dry track...you two think I should go back to the stock configuration and use alumium 0 degree hubs? Thanks for your input!!

[Casper]

If they are watering the track then it will be too loose for the CRE. The CRE is for when you run slicks or blue groove.

Sway bars kind of do the same thing as the CRE. They are used when you want to free up the rear end. If the rear end is dumping in the corners (dumping means when the rear leans too much because of traction and then breaks loose all of a sudden) you can put a sway bar on to keep the car flat so the rear end will swing through the corners more consistantly.

[tarvymoto]

Also , use spring pre-load to adjust ride hieght - not spacers. Adding spacers inside of the rear shock will add steering , which you don't need.

I just ran oval tonight and TQ'd + won. :cool:

[Gutter Ball]

Oh....that's just great :) $100 for something I probably can't use ever...hahaha, oh well oh well...okay, I'll take it back off and put it up on Ebay or something. Thanks for the tips guys...can I use those aluminum carriers though? At least I'll get SOMETHING out of it :)

[Gutter Ball]

Ugh, I've decided to go back to the original setup. A 2 lap slow down is unacceptable!! :) So I won't even use the aluminum carriers.

[Casper]

The carries are too wide to use stock axles with so unfortunately the whole setup is kind of a lose unless you can get somewhere that is high bite but if that is not a regular thing for you a sway bar does pretty much the same thing as the CRE does so that is a simpler cheaper fix for those times.

[Gutter Ball]

Oops, you're right...those hub carriers were too big. I do have the other aluminium ones though, but I won't put them on. Speaking of sway bars, I think I have a set lying around :)

[PhsykoManMKAO]

how low of a mod motor can i safely put in a xxx-spec? is a 7 turn to low. it prolly is but i dunno. a lil' help would be greatly apriciated.

[Gutter Ball]

The tranny's in the spec and Kinwald are identical. I put a 9X2 in there for about 4 weeks and it was fine. Had to rebuild the tranny by then. 9X2 was way too fast for me, so I'm using a 21 single at the moment.

[Casper]

I like the standard trinity rear hubs as they allow you to raise and lower the ball stud changing the roll center of the car which is a way to tune the rear end. It is up to you though.

As for who low can you go. The XXX can handle a 7 turn as long as you have bearings in the tranny. I would not recomend such a motor as it will be uncontrolable but if you want it can be done. Getting a properly sized pinion might be hard though. You will probably need to put on a larger spur.

[PhsykoManMKAO]

hey thanx. i guess i will end up goin with sometin a bit less powerful maybe around a 13 turn or something. i dont have the xxx-spec yet but i am going 2 get it by the end of this summer and then i am gonna save up for some decent stuff for it, like maybe a jr xr2 radio system novak super rooster esc, a p-94, and 2 smc 3000 enduro packs...

[racer13]

hey.. i just got my xxx kinwald edition.. it's pretty cool.. but i will prolly sell it to some one

[Casper]

Trust me a good P-94 or Ti 12 turn mod will be very fast. You can even go to the 10-11 turn range if you wanted to but a 7 turn really is too much motor for a offroad buggy. Also the lower a turn motor you have the more maintence it will require.

[Gutter Ball]

If you're going to save up, you might as well save some more and get the Kinwald Edition for an extra $50 - $60....unless you're just racing for fun :)

[PhsykoManMKAO]

$50 or $60 could by me my motor and im a lil' short on cash these days... lol well i think i am gettin the p-94 12 turn double, torque.

[crono man]

big stupid newbie question...what size hexdrivers do i need to build up my xxx:confused:

thanks

[tarvymoto]

Chrono , I think the most important drivers for Losi kits are 1/16 and 3/32

[Casper]

3/32 and 1/16th are the most used. .050 is needed for most set screws and there are two places you will need a 5/64 driver (front axle and tranny case.) If you are tight on money just get the 3/32 and 1/16. You will get some cheap angle wrenches with the kit that will allow you to put it together.

[PhsykoManMKAO]

maintenance wise how much wrench work do u have 2 do with the xxx? i know with my nitro truck i always have 2 keep up with it and am constantly replacing parts adn stuff. i have an electric mt and well for 6 years i didnt have 2 replace a single thing. not all electrics are the same and since the xxx is more towards racing... i was jus wondering if many things are just ment 2 go some day, like glow plugs for nitro.

[Casper]

The diff would probably the the highest maintence thing on the car other then shocks. The diff if built right and adjusted properly will last about 2 months of racing or more. (about 100 runs) Shocks will need to be rebuilt every so often to maintain top performance if you want to. Other then that it is just stuff that breaks. Things on electrics do not wear out other then motor and batteries. As you cut the comm on the motor you will want new brushes (modified motors) so that is kind of equivalent to glow plugs.

[PhsykoManMKAO]

aight, that dont sound bad at all... 2 keep the diff in good shape what kinda stuff will i need 2 do with it and what kinda tools would i need? i decided that when i order da xxx i am gonna get the bearing completer set with it so i can just put them in while i am building it.

[Casper]

The best tips I can give in building a diff is to follow the instructions to the letter and when tightening the diff error on the tight side. If the diff slips it is done and will need a rebuild. As long as it does not slip it should remain smooth for a long time. As for bearings if you get the Kinwald kit you get all the bearings in it already. If you are planning on getting the spec kit and get bearings for it at the same time you will spend the same on the spec kit and bearings as you would with the kinwald kit and you get other cool things like all graphite parts, titanium ti rods (a must) some cool blue stuff. VERY worth the extra money the kinwald kit costs as upgrading the spec will cost you way more in the long run.

[PhsykoManMKAO]

the kinwald kit is like $90 dollars more then the spec... the spec is only 150 and bearings are 15. so it would still be 75 dollars more. and the extra 75 dollars could buy me the p-94. yea your right in the long run if i upgraded the spec 2 the same parts as the kinwald it would end up being more $ but i'd rather spend less at the beggining and evry time i have a lil' extra money get sometin for it.

[racer13]

ill sell u my xxx ke for $150?

[PhsykoManMKAO]

thanx for the offer but i wanna go with a in-the-box new one and i feel like buildin it myself 2.
thanx newayz

[Ray]

From what you are saying, the XXX KE you are looking at is $240.00. You might shop around. My LHS sells it for $209.00, and I have heard of some places selling it for $199.00. Also, $15.00 sounds real cheap for bearings, so I would be real careful of what you are getting. I do have to agree with evertbody else on here. You would be better off getting the XXX KE. It won't take you long at all to bend those steel turnbuckles, and by the time you get through replacing all the weak pieces on the spec, you could have bought a XXX KE.

[PhsykoManMKAO]

at horizon hobbies the price of the xxx ke is 240. and the $15 bearing completer is dynamite brand so they should be decent. whats a cheaper place onlone 2 buy losi stuff. my lhs would prolly be higher than that or if not the same.

[Backfire]

I recently purchased a few packs of 3000HV cells. After assembling one pack, I tried a test fit only to find that the pack is too wide:( I assembled the pack with a Dean's jig and used the pro-3 bars as recommended by Dean's for the Sanyo 3000 cells. The fit is close, but they are just too wide:mad:! Anyone else have this problem? I believe the pro-2 bars have a lower profile that may solve the problem, but it would be nice if Dean's had made that known before I assembled the pack.

[Gutter Ball]

I use Dean's bars on all my packs and the batteries fit fine. Maybe you have a bit too much solder on the battery ends?

[Backfire]

Do your bars just say "Deans" on them, or "Deans Pro-3"? If it is just "Deans", then you are using the lower profile ProBar-2. I will probably just pick up some of the lower profile ones to try. The bars are sitting pretty much flush on the battery ends. Very little solder; still a solid joint but not a lot of excess. Hopefully I can remove the bars from the first pack cleanly without any issues:(

[Casper]

Yeah the sanyo cells are tab bit longer. My buddy has had really good luck with the Orion bones batteryy bars. Just another alternative I will work with the HV's. This is the first I have heard that the battery bars matter if that finished battery would fit in the car. I have the pro-3 pars on my SMH and they are a very tight fit but they do fit.

[PhsykoManMKAO]

does the xxx- spec come with a painted body? i know ussually kits dont but theres always exceptions.

[racer13]

no it does not.