Tamiya TXT-1 v1.0

[bluesy]

Hey you two... that sounds great. If it happens it will be my default homepage when I fire up my browser. Get on it!!!! jk...

:cool: :cool:

[junk4calata]

Hey Jeep, Just to update you, I did my research - started 14 years ago !!! I am well aware that an ESC switches power on and off to a motor....BUT at a rate so fast that its almost irrelevant for NON SOLID STATE circuits. When I suggested that a relay be used and it will either be on or off I was well aware about how a motor gets power.

Do you see your light bulb flickering in your house? No, but in actuallity it turns on and off 60 times a second right. Well guess what, if you don't notice 60 how are you ( or a relay for this matter ) going to notice something in the neighborhood of 2500 ???

So, yes you are right about pulsed DC ( you know, the term used for that graph you couldn't find or was too hard to draw with MS paint in under 1 minute ) but it is irrelevant in this case for this application.

I originally turned to this thread for all its vast technical posts ( some including by yourself ). Like me, I am sure others are looking, learning, and their gears turning. Unlike you, I have the time to try, experiment, explain and educate others and am not selfish. I believe that the more you teach others the more you will also learn. Beside, Education should be free ( F***** schools that charge ).

Please do not underestimate me as I also know more than the average Joe. If you want a second opinion to confirm that, ask HB and he can tell you what I came up with on the side.

Now, As far as you and Hairball combining sites / info, I also think its a great idea as long as it can remain up for others to see ( remember, there are always new people getting involved with this truck and reading posts )

[JeffHo830]

Wow, what have I done ?!?! (hehehe....) Interesting discussion on the auto 4WS. Let me get this right. According to junk4calata, if you can detected the amount of voltage the ESC sent out to the motor. We can determine the speed of the truck. Hence, we can probably use this information to maybe determine how much signals/or whatever it is to the servo to make the 4WS corrosponse to the speed of the truck. Did I get it right?

As for on-the-fly selectable sway bar. Somehow the image of the chinese finger trap came up. :confused: hehehe... Don't ask me why, cause I donno why. And to add to the discission. With all the information (Jeep's, Hairball's, and Dr Doug), I take it the little bar on the catilever lower arm is the sway bar right? If so, is there a way to make the little ziptie/clamp slide up and down the cantilever to adjust the sway bar toughness? Maybe installed a servo or something similar. Use a slider control somewhere to control the distance how far down/up the clamp travel. Kinda like the steering servo and the turning radius. The more you turn the tighter the turning radius. Does this makes sense to any of you?

If it's wrong, forgive me. Still no trunk to play yet. But will be soon tho. Won the auction on ebay from HongKing_Cowboy. Just waiting for him to respond on my question of surface mailing. Woohoo...:D Also got the center skid plate and bearing set from New Era. I'm going to hold off on all the metals upgrade. I saw a post on rcmt.net that Tamiya had some hop-up for the TXT-1. It's all blue looking. I think I'll wait for that. Anyone know when and where I can get them? Thanks.

Jeff

[junk4calata]

Jeff,

Congrats on your TXT from HK_Cowboy ( did you do as I said earlier and get the truck for $300? )

Now for the other thing regarding automatic RWS. My post was more or less to come up with a was to automatically control on-demand RWS. From my previos experience I have noticed that a 12vDC automotive relay will latch ( close or open a circuit depending on how you wire it up ) at as low as around 7 volts. What I said was that since in our case as the motor goes faster it sees more voltage, it would be possible to wire up a relay ( maybe a 9vDC relay with a rheostat for fine tuning ) so that it opens up the circuit going to the rear servo and then the RWS would be disabled ( more voltage to motor, more speed on truck, RWS disabled ). The opposite would hold true to activate RWS. If the relay does not see enough voltage ( slow speed on truck), it cannot latch ( in this case open the circuit ) and thefor the RWS will be active.

The purpose of the rheostat would be to fine tune at what point an individual would want to latch the relay as I'm sure not everyone has the same taste.

[JeffHo830]

Hi, can someone help me verify that if this is the same or similar as the RAM35 that Hairball is talking about? Thanks.

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1710096311

Hey junk4calata, i still haven't heard from HK_cowboy yet. I want to know if the surface shipping have insurance and how long would it takes. If surface shipping doesn't, then I'll go with air for the insurance. Back to the 4WS, according to your explanation. This process of looking the servo would be automatic then. So this would save a channel on the radio then, correct?

Jeff

[junk4calata]

Jeff,

As for the switch, I cannot say. It sounds like it but not 100% sure. As for the Truck, he should get back to you ( usually takes about 1/2 day - time difference I guess ). And yes, the hook up should elimate the need for 1 channel from the radio. However, it will be totally automatic and in rock crawling there might be situations where you would need RWS AND high power ( but high power would deactivate RWS ).

Personally, when I finally get my truck I will use a momentary switch wired up to a channel instead on the regular constant on/off type switches. I have a 6ch radio because I know myself and I need more than just 3 channels.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by JeffHo830
Hi, can someone help me verify that if this is the same or similar as the RAM35 that Hairball is talking about? Thanks.

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1710096311

Back to the 4WS, according to your explanation. This process of looking the servo would be automatic then. So this would save a channel on the radio then, correct?

Jeff

Nope, not the one I used.

And yes, it would be totaly automatic, so an extra channel on the radio would not be needed.

[JeffHo830]

Hey guys, picked up a Ko Propo failsafe at ebay for $42 shipped just now. Woohoo...:D The parts are coming in slowly. Hmmm... I guess I'll check some other place for the r/c switch then.

Hey Jeepinator, I have some question about your truck. On your gallery page. The first pic show your truck. What is the pink looking battery pack for? It has a switch on it too. What is the switch for? Also, there is a pack of purple-blue looking battery pack too by the ESC. (I think...) How come you have so many battery packs?

I had been scanning the rcmt.net. People said they are having some problem with the Super Rooster and recoomand the LRP Rro Reverse instead. Anyone have any opinion on this one compare to the Super Rooster? The LRP is a little cheaper, that's why I'm asking. :p Thanks.

Jeff

[junk4calata]

Jeff,

Not sure about problems about the super rooster as I do not have one.

As for the LRP F1 Pro Reverse, I do have one. I can also say that I have been running 8 cells thru it with 2 speed gems 17x1 wired in parallel. Not sure how hot is normal, but at the end of my run I can touch the heat sinks and hold my fingers on there for 3 whole seconds with out getting burned ( it is a little hot thou ). Keep in mind that LRP rates the ESC for 6-7 cells.

[Hairball]

The only place I know of to get the RAM35 switch is from towerhobbies.com

go there to get one.

As the the LRP speedo getting hot, install a small PC based fan on it, and that should cure your heat problems. You could even get fancy and use a temperature controlled fan with thermostat on it, and have the fan only spin at full RPM when the LRP is getting too hot. :) (I was going to do this, just havent gotten around to it yet)

Jeff - Congrats on your Ko Fail Safe unit, thats about what I paid for mine, and you KNOW it will work, because I've already proven that it does.

As for Junk4calata and his technical skills, I can confirm them. He was the one that actually got me started on my 4WS quest through emails exchanged bewteen the two of us. He knows what hes doing. :D

[junk4calata]

I really appreciate that. I didn't mean to sound rude, but I had to get that off my chest ( message to Jeepinator ). No hard feelings hopefully.

Nick

[junk4calata]

If anyone else is interested in other RAM products, their website is Ram RC (www.RAMRCandRAMTrack.com)

[Hairball]

Well, I hope this pissing match is done. I'm tired of it. :D

Now, back to how this started. Any ideas on how to make a automatic switching on-demand 4WS system work?

Here is a thought. The signal wire coming from a reciever puts out pulsed voltages depending on the signal from the transmitter. Like, if I've got my trigger at 0%, it would put out say 1.0 volts. If I increase throttle to 25%, the signal wire woudl read somthing like 1.2 volts, etc, etc.

Now, if you put a Y harness coming off the lead that goes to the ESC, (One lead to the esc, one lead just chillin), you could use that lead to monitor throttle positions, hence monitoring how much steering to give to the rear wheels. Like, for 25% throttle and below full rear steering engaged. 50% throttle, say, 50% steering, etc, etc..

This would work in therory, just have to build a circuit to read this signals, and modify the servo moments (like some sort of adjustable servo limiter).

I would still like an overide switch that gives 100% rear steering at all times though. Maybe a three way switch? One way 2WS only, next automatic varible 4WS, and the last 100% all time 4WS.

I think that would be the ticket. Now I just need to find the parts. Look out Google, here I come! :D

---------------------

Now, as for on-demand sway bars, I'm not really sure. And even if I did get somthing to work, it would probably end up hindering the truck more than helping it. I'm think of a chain driven latch / pully system.

[Hairball]

Sweet. How much space are we going to have to work with?

And I'm about a heart beat away from getting my wife to mail my TXT-1 out to me. I'm getting tired of talking about it and not being able to play with it. Shipping is going to kill me though, but I really don't care. :) I just need to find a place to put the damn thing. Barracks rooms suck.

I would just buy another one at a hobby shop in town, but I really dont think I need three TXT-1s. Two should be enough. :D

Maybe I could get some kick arse videos of it crusing through the low tide. (I'm like 25 yards from the ocean). Hmmmm, time to call the wife....

[Hairball]

Nope, if I wanted my wife with me, I would have to be here for 3 years. F*** that! :)

So we're doing the long distance relationship thing right now.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by jeepinator

The website will be hosted on my server. As in I OWN the server. As in I built the server and have full control over everything. As in, how many terabytes of web space do you want? :D

Groovy!

Oh, and check this out. I found that the best way to learn about making servos do weird things is check out the guys using them for homemade robotic projects. This is just one peice of interesing info I found.

http://www.welwyn.demon.co.uk/sslow/sslow.htm

Oh, and my webpage is back up. :D Sorry for the short interuption of service. My temper gets the best of me sometimes.

[TXTTHIS]

will, she is on the way!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D

[JeffHo830]

Thanks Hairball for putting up the webpage again. Not taking any chances, so just printed all 18 pages of Hairball's mod for safe keeping. :D :D

I had read over the link about slow servo that Hairball posted. With my very limited (next to zero) knowledge. This seems like the kit that we need to make the servo what we need to do. Correct? It use the signal pulse to determine if the slow servo function is needed. My question is, it seems like we need to link this device to both servo in order to have different rate of moment on the servo. Maybe we can modify the design and instead of the signal pulse, we use voltage or whatever Jeep and Junk are talking about. :confused: :confused:

I guess right now is just find out where the voltage or whatever is increasing when the truck is accelerating, then reverse the effects on the rear servo. Like the L/R and fader effects in car stereo. One speaker is louder, the corresponding side is turn down.

[Doctor Doug]

jeepinator quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wasn't your FAQ up even before the thing was released in the US?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Yeah, I guess it was, but I don't recall how long before anymore.

[bluesy]

Dr. Doug..... that would be pretty cool. I can find lots of those types of 'mini Rubicons'. There is more rock around here than there is dirt...... not much new construction.... and most of the land is in use. If you are ever up this way just squirt me an email and we'll connect somehow.....


BTW.... where in the US are you? I work in the US 25 days a month and can be anywhere from LA to NYC, Chicago to New Orleans.....

:cool: :cool:

[Hairball]

Originally posted by JeffHo830
Thanks Hairball for putting up the webpage again. Not taking any chances, so just printed all 18 pages of Hairball's mod for safe keeping. :D :D

I had read over the link about slow servo that Hairball posted. With my very limited (next to zero) knowledge. This seems like the kit that we need to make the servo what we need to do. Correct? It use the signal pulse to determine if the slow servo function is needed. My question is, it seems like we need to link this device to both servo in order to have different rate of moment on the servo. Maybe we can modify the design and instead of the signal pulse, we use voltage or whatever Jeep and Junk are talking about. :confused: :confused:


You're welcome. :)

As for the slow thing, I'm not entirely sure myself that this is what I'm looking for. I keep thinking I want a travler limiter, not a servo slow down device. But finding something to adjust the end points of a servo WITHOUT using the transmitter is beginning to be a real pain.

[murf]

Hey anyone ever think about a self righting mechanism like some of those BattleBots have for when ya roll it over? I was thinking about a rack and pinion setup to flip ya back over...you could use a stock msc and and motor to power it so you get left and right throw to get ya up and going again. Its just an idea, would be nice!!! Can you guys give me a few tips, I got my "blue" Trinity Sapphires 17-1 today and Super Rooster...this is my first try with mods so I don't wan't to burn up, I will run 2 batts in parrallel...should I wire the motors in series or parrallel? I'm not looking for serious speed from the thing just more power for the climbs, and any help with motor break-in would be appreciated...
Thanks...

[RCtinkerman]

There's an antenna on the market that does that (flips you back after a roll). Wire the motors in parallel.;)

[Hairball]

That antenna would not work well on the TXT-1 because of its height. I'm just too damn big. :)

[RCtinkerman]

HB that's right, it was made for touring cars :) You guys are entering the realm of robotics with all your mod ideas:D

[Hairball]

I'm not seeing a problem here RCTink... :D

I'm getting my TXT-1 shipped over here, so I should have it in about two weeks. I can't wait.

Oh, and i'm having the strangest feeling that somtime in the near future I'll be buying an 8+ channel heli radio to accomadate all the crazy mods I'm beginning to throw on my truck...

Need more Channels!! :)

Maybe I'll add a working winch..

[Grant Tokumi]

Hairball,
I thought you didn't wanna use stick radios? :).

Couple FYIs for ya:

1. Drawback - If you wanna operate a heli/plane stick radio like a 2 channel stick radio (left stick up/down is throttle - right stick left/right is steering), you have to modify the left stick so that its up/down direction is spring loaded. Plane radios have that stick as a ratchet style (like your trims). Heli radios have that stick with no spring, and even no ratchet, just free moving. If you use just the right stick for throttle and steering, no mods necessary, both up/down and left/right is spring loaded in the right stick. But to me, very tough to drive that way.

2. Advantage - Your 4WS deal on your TXT will become much simpler. The plane/heli radios that I've seen have what they call "mixing". One channel on transmitter controls 2 channels on the receiver. So you'd put one servo on each of the channels and control both with one stick. On my Futaba T6XAS 6 channel radio, and I think most others, there is a switch on the radio that turns mixing on and off. So with it on, it has 4WS, with it off, 2WS. Simple as that. I've done exactly that on my vehicle. And even better, since they are both on different channels, I can control the trim of the front steering independently from the rear steering, AND, I can even reverse them independently from each other.

3. Advantage - Once you get used to stick, you give your self much more controlling options. With stick radio can you control up to 4 proportional channels without releasing or shifting any of your fingers. With pistol radio, only 2. Your entire right hand is dedicated to steering, left hand totally dedicated to throttle. Gotta shift thumb to activate 3rd channel. I tried to use my 3rd channel button on my pistol to track lap times, but with all that concentration, I just couldn't release my thumb to do it.

4. Disadvantage - Most plane/heli radios come in 72 Mhz. You "should" convert it to 75 Mhz to use it on ground vehicle. Costed me additional $40 to have my radio converted.

These heli/plane radios are awesome stuff. They got your FM/PCM, multiple models, hipots, dual rates, exponentials, just like your expensive pistol radios, and you get so much more options with the multiple channels. I'm seriously considering using my 6 channel radio on all my other vehicles as well. You'll like it. :)

[Hairball]

Ok, check it out.

Channel mixing, although really really cool, isn't really need in my application. I'm just after more channels.

I've got On demand 4WS working perfectly, no problems, no worries. On my 4ch Ko Propo EX-11 Presto (kick *** radio btw) I've got two easy to use thumb switches. One to shift the E-Maxx tranny, one to turn 4WS on and off. And they are placed on the grip in a way that it requires no real movement of the hand to use them, just a slight shift of my thumb. Easy.

I want more channels for things like headlights I can turn on and off, and a working winch (not really needed, but it would be cool), and anything else I can think of. So actually all I need is one more channel. Actually, maybe too. I'm thinking of install a wireless camera on the rig, so I can drive it with a small television. That would be soooo much fun. So, possibly two more channels. I don't like stick radios too much. They work, ut the just don't feel as cool as a good pistol grip radio. So I guess I'm stuck. I could use a multiplex radio and have up to 7 channels in a pistol grip, but I really don't like the feel of those radios, and they are UGLY! :D Now, I think I can get around a few of these limitations with some complex circuitry (not really complex, just a lot of parts) but i'm not sure if I want to go that route. RAM makes a 4 way switch, and I can program 4 positions into my AUX channels on my Ko EX-11. Meaming, using Ch3 I could select what Ch4 controls. For example -->

Position 1 - CH4 controls 4WS
Position 2 - CH4 controls 2 Speed tranny
Position 3 - CH4 controls headlights / tail lights
Position 4 - CH4 controls (insert function here, camera?)

Now, this may seem complicated, but actually it would be SOO easy, and I'd probably wire in some groovy LEDs into my radio so I could have one light up for each position it was in. Sound crazy? I think not, the only thing that is crazy would be my radio tray! :eek: :eek: Wires going everywhere!! I'd have to goto a double-decker setup so I could fit everything in there, and install a stand alone reciever pack so I don't suck too much power from my main battery packs. Probably install a nice roll cage to protect all the electroics as well. End up being the $500 radio tray. *sweet* I figured out a way to move the tranny shifting servo to the rear of the truck and still keep it protected, so that should free up some room on the radio tray as well. Just need to make the brakets.

Oh, and I just thought of all that while I was typing this response by the way. :) How do you like them apples?

I could just lock the tranny in low gear, because it seems to be almost pointless to have a 2 speed on the TXT-1. Once I get the truck up to speed and actually need to shift into high gear, the truck is going so damn fast that I pretty much lose control of it anyway. That would save an AUX channel, so you could use that extra channel for something like headlights instead of tranny shifting. Just a thought.

[Hairball]

Smartass. :D

And if you know they're tasty, shouldn't you know what color they are since you just took a bite out of one of them.

[JeffHo830]

Hi guys, I got pretty much all the gears for my TXT-1. Also got a E-maxx tranny off ebay too. Just have to figure out a way to mount it later. Hopefully by then one of the hop-up sites have the tranny mount. Have a little question conerning the radio. (Last piece of the shopping list). I'm planning to get the Ko Propo EX-11 Presto. But it said it only comes with 2-ch receiver. How do I use the 2 other channels? The radio is 4-channels, it seems odd that they only have 2 channels receiver. Oh well, just waiting for the parts to get here. :D

Jeff

[Hairball]

Check it out.

Ko only sells 2ch recievers. Heres the deal. They sell an "Extra Channel Unit" (about $25) that adds two channels to there receiver (so, two little boxes, 4 channels)

Or, you can buy a Novak XXtra reciever, it supports 5.

(I'd just get the extra channel unit, wait, I already did... hehehe)

-=Hairball=-

[JeffHo830]

Hi Hairball, what is this crystal thing people talks about on their radio? Do I need to get it along with the radio and the receiver?

Jeff

[Hairball]

Crystals are used to set the frequency the radio runs on. Channel if you will.

Your radio will come with one set. The reason for having multiple sets (I have like 10) is that if your racing with someone you can't be on the same freqency, so thats the reason they have different ones.

Make sure when you buy additional sets that you buy the same brand that your Radio is. Like, If you run a Ko Propo radio, buy Ko crystals....

Oh, and make sure you've got the right band too. 27mhz and 75mhz. Some run on 27mhz (there are 7 channels availible for 27mhz radios) and 75mhz (30 channels availible).

NEVER USE 27mhz crystalls in a 75mhz radio, and vice versa. :)

[JeffHo830]

Woohoo, just placed an order for the Ko Propo Ex-11 Presto radio with the extra channel unit at Pit Stop Hobbies. It was $184 shipped. Seems like a pretty good price to me. Hey Hairball, how much did you get yours? I hope I didn't over pay it. Got the Ko Propo failsafe last night. I finished getting everything I need to get for the truck except the battery and charger. What is a respectable economic battery/charger combo that is under $100.

I have a question for you guys. Would it be ok to run 2 batteries that is 2 different brand and different amp. Like 1500 and 3000? They are both running parallel of course. I just want more run time out of the dual battery setup. Also how long does a typical 3000 battery last on rack crawling session?

Jeff

[bluesy]

Jeff... Looks like your TXT aquistition is coming right along. Don't have an answer about using different cells in parallel but I can tell you that with the stock motors and 2400 stick packs I get between 20 and 30 minutes of run time per pattery. By that time I need a rest, where I go rock crawling I get to do a lot of climbing myself to keep the truck in sight. It is sure not the same as putting a car on a track and standing on a driver's stand. I get a real workout with all the climbing around.

Hope this is of some minor assistance.....

:cool: :cool:

[Hairball]

I paid $100 for mine. Used off eBay. I I spent probably another $60 getting it fixed, plus two of or three trips to San Diego (From Camp Pendleton) getting minor issues worked out.

The radio worked when i got it, the two of the adjustment switches did not (well, sort of, but not good enough for me)

I had the entire radio re worked and cleaned up. Now it sits in a Pelican 1550 case along with my ko EX1 mars and JR R-1.

I am SUPER a n a l about my radios. Clean, and properly put away every time. If its not in my hands or on my workbench being used, its in the case safe and sound.

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by jeepinator
When did I display uncalmness? :)
I am just trying to help. I KNOW the answer...

BTW, I took my TXT-1 out last weekend. Went blasting through the nastiest, muddiest construction site on the planet. It wa fun!. Like Jason, I am starting to like the slow action just as much as the wheelie popping, balls-to-the-walls action. I had both say bars disco'd and was articulating like MAD!
Pretty fun stuff.

He-he...toldja! ;)

Slow-speed stuff is more fun!

Jason

[JeffHo830]

Hi guys, for those of you that made a e-maxx tranny conversion on your TXT-1. Can you tell me how strong of a mount I need to hold the transmission up? Does it need super strong metal? I don't know what I'm going to use yet. But plan to go to the local hardware store to see what I can find use of. Or if someone is willing to make one for me. :D :D Been waiting for New Era and Ballastic on the tranny mount and no luck yet.

OH Hairball and Bluesy, thanks for the info on battery. Got a pair of Peak Performance Power Maxx 2400 for $50 Hobby People (Didn't know there is a local store where I live). And picked up a simple peak charger too for under $40. So I'm pretty much set now. Just need to spec out the custom job materials later.

Oh Bluesy, when I was driving last weekend around where I live. I saw a Chevy Suburban with "Bluesy" license plate. Was it your car? :confused: :)

Jeff

[Hairball]

If you look on my webpage, you'll see that I made my mounts from a solid peice of aluminum, about 1/4" thick all the way around. VERY STRONG, and probably overkill, but since they are aluminum its not very heavy.

I've seen a set made from alumnum right angle stock, and then trimmed to fit. Worked pretty good I suppose. I just wanted to make my own.

As fro getting aluminum right angle stock, check out home depot, and if they don't have any, find a local (if you can) metal supply warehouse, and they will have what you need. It really doesn't need to be more than 1/8" thick.

Oh, and I wouldn't wait for New Era or Ballistic Stupidity to get there out. They been listed as "COMING SOON" for over 4 months now, and I really doubt they'll even get them out all together. They suck. I mean, how hard is it to make two right angle brakets, and drill holes in them?? Hmmmmmm.....

I guess if they were making a servo mount too it could slow them down, but I still don't think its worth the wait.

[JeffHo830]

Hey Hairball, thanks for the advise. I guess I'll stop by Home Depot this weekend and check out what they have.

Was just browsing ebay and noticed a lot of people selling the E-maxx/T-maxx rims and tires. Will they fit the TXT after the adjustment using the Juggernaut parts (from Dr Doug FAQ)? And are those E/T-maxx rims alumnium or just chrome plated? I kinda like those 5 spoke wheel. They look pretty sporty. Oh will the stock TXT-1 tires mount on the T/E-Maxx rims? Last question(I hope :p ), if I decided to mount alumnium wheel on the TXT-1. Can the truck take it? I mean the tranny (stock and E-maxx tranny), axles and gears. Thanks for answering all the question.

Jeff

[Hairball]

AHHHH!! Too many freakin questions! :D

Maxx rims on a TXT-1? Sure, with adapters, but why? Maxx rims and tires are smaller in diameter than TXT-1 tires and rims. So'd you'd be lowering the truck a little, and giving up some ground clearence too.

Aluminum or Crome Plated? They have both. But then again, why? :)

TXT-1 TIRES on Maxx RIMS? No idea, never tried it, probably never will either. :) Anyone else having any idea?

Can the TXT-1 take it? HELL YES! this thing was built for TORQUE, not much else.

[JeffHo830]

Hehehe... more questions. Actually one little one. Are the rims size the same between the TXT-1 and T/E-Maxx?

Jeff

[Hairball]

Geesz, www.towerhobbies.com too hard to get to by yourself?

Clod Tires

Inner Diameter - 2.6"
Outer Diameter - 6.25"
Width - 4.25"

T/E-Maxx Tires

Inner Diameter - 3.2"
Outer Diameter - 5.75"
Width - 3.5"



There you have it.

[bluesy]

Jeff.... NOpe,,,,,,,,,, not my car. I'm at home in Victoria, BC, Canada right now. But I'd like to know who snatched my "handle"!!!!......... LOL:cool: :cool:

[murf]

Yeah Jeff... check out http://rcvehicles.about.com/mbody.htm
theres a ton of info on there. I just got back into the hobby after 10 years...lots of new stuff to learn. I have a question about motor timing...I got the 17-1 SpeedGems and SuperRooster ready to go in this weekend, theres not a whole lot of info that came with the motors, but the installation instructions for the ESC says to run 0 timing or it will overheat in reverse, should I mess with this or is it OK cause I don't really use reverse too much, just to get out of trouble.
Thanks

[Fetztang]

hey hairball or anyone
i just did a p-94 brush conversion on a 13t double motor and i notice the brushes are only wearing on one side. should i break in the motor some how? or do i need to cut my com like you are always talking about? i just bash so i never worried about maintanance or any thing. i only ask because you seem to know what your talking about when it comes to motors
Brian

[RCIDIOT]

Im pretty new at this stuff, well actually, i have very little clue about anything. Is it possible to get better motors (Speed Gems) on the TXT-1 without buying a ESC, or can i get the motors and run them off of a MSC. :confused:

[Skribble]

You will an ESC, and one that can handle 2 mod motors. The MSC will most likely burn up and puff in smoke. Most people that run dual motors around here will recommend the Novak Super Rooster or the Novak EVX. :D

[RCtinkerman]

RCIDIOT, If you go back though this post there are several different setup options you can use for subing the motors and MSC. I will start by telling you it is easier as well as better to install an ESC rather then the supplied MSC. In any event, if you use other than the supplied motors keep the turns over 20 and you'll be safe.

[NitroRookie]

When I decide to get my TXT-1. I'LL be using the stock motors first. But I will be using a Super Rooster.

[NitroRookie]

When I decide to get my TXT-1. I'LL be using the stock motors first. But I will be using a Super Rooster. Oh another thing I'LL be using the 2WS mode for the first little while. then I will get the second servo for the 4WS mode. I'm using the 2WS mode first so it keeps the initial cost down.

[bluesy]

Nitrorookie..... as you can see by my location I'm not far from you... Where are you getting your TXT-1? If you need any assistance just pm me..... I already have one.... If you want to see it run ...pm me. Later......:cool: :cool:

[NitroRookie]

Bluesy.....I'LL be getting my TXT-1 from Greathobbies. When I do decide to get it.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by RCtinkerman
RCIDIOT, If you go back though this post there are several different setup options you can use for subing the motors and MSC. I will start by telling you it is easier as well as better to install an ESC rather then the supplied MSC. In any event, if you use other than the supplied motors keep the turns over 20 and you'll be safe.

Ya, MSCs suck. Get an ESC if you can afford it, just make sure it can holds lots of current draw and extra cells (6 - 12) if you decide to go that way later. Always plan for the future.

If you plan on keeping your TXT-1 for a long time, you're probably going to go crazy with it and spend insane amounts of cash on it. :)

I think I've got like $2700 into my TXT-1 obsession, so be warned. :)

If you (or anyone) needs any help with anything, just ask me, I'll hook you up best I can. Also, check out my webpage

http://home.jps.net/~hairball/

and you'll see my main TXT-1 project. I'm about to start another here pretty soon, and i'll have that one up as well. :)

[Fetztang]

HB check out my post like 8 up and please reply



p.s i bid on a ex-11 to get started on the things i need for a txt-1 that i hope to get but someone used buuy it now so i lost that one:(

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Fetztang
hey hairball or anyone
i just did a p-94 brush conversion on a 13t double motor and i notice the brushes are only wearing on one side. should i break in the motor some how? or do i need to cut my com like you are always talking about? i just bash so i never worried about maintanance or any thing. i only ask because you seem to know what your talking about when it comes to motors
Brian

Sorry! Must have missed this one, that, or was too tired to reply the first time I read it.

I break motors in after I cut them with a 4 cell pack and let it run for like 3 - 5 minutes, with a tiny bit of cutting oil on the comm.

I cut mod motors every 5 - 10 runs depending on how hard I run them, and what turn motor they are. (Lower turn, higher maintenance)

Did you change out the springs while you did the P-94 conversion? I could be a spring issue. Thats the first thing that comes to mind.

And when you say one side, is that ONE brush on one side of the motor, or ONE portion of each individual brush on both brushes?

If its both brushes, and they are wearing unevenly, you need to re-cut the comm, and replace the brushes with brand new ones.

PLEASE tell me you cut the comm before you installed the P-94 brushs conversion... If your going to spend the time removing the motor from the vehicle, you might as well re-cut it, even if its just one minor cut. This will make the motor last SOOO much longer, and provide more power as well.

[Usagi]

Originally posted by RCtinkerman
RCIDIOT, If you go back though this post there are several different setup options you can use for subing the motors and MSC. I will start by telling you it is easier as well as better to install an ESC rather then the supplied MSC. In any event, if you use other than the supplied motors keep the turns over 20 and you'll be safe. those options that you want should be out some time very soon tink.

[JeffHo830]

Hi guys, been really busy at work. So didn't even have time to start to build the truck. Got most of the stuffs already. Just waiting to get some free time to stop by the hardware store to get some metal pieces to make the E-Maxx tranny mount.

Hey Hairball and Jeep, your combine TXT-1 site is looking good.

Fetztang, I got the EX-11 Presto from Pit Stop Hobbies with the extra channel unit for $184 shipped. Give them a try. I think the price is reasonable.

Jeff

[Hairball]

Originally posted by JeffHo830
Hey Hairball and Jeep, your combine TXT-1 site is looking good.

Thanks! We were going crazy on it for awhile, but seemed to have slowed down a bit. Need some more motivation to work on it again. Work has been kickin my butt lately, so I just havnet felt like doing anything. :D

[Fetztang]

thanks HB i acually didnt cut the comm or replace the springs. i dont have a lathe and my lhs doesnt cut comms so i guess i will be buying one soon. Jeff thanks for that radio tip. i cant wait to get this truck it is going to be my next for sure :D
Brian

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Fetztang
thanks HB i acually didnt cut the comm or replace the springs. i dont have a lathe and my lhs doesnt cut comms so i guess i will be buying one soon.

Shame on you!! :D

I've got a simple Team Cobra Mod lathe, runs around $160 with a diamond bit. Great little lathe, and worth every penny.

I highy suggest you pick up some sort of lathe if your going to continue to play with mod motors.

[Big Wig]

Hi all!

A friend of mine just bought a TXT-1 and we decided to make a set of nice sway bar clamps for it. What do you think?

pic 1:

[Big Wig]

pic 2:

[Big Wig]

pic 3:

[RCtinkerman]

Big Wig, all due respect, I like your clamps:p Right now since I can't make my own I'm using small car hose clamps, then when Ballistic Stupidity makes them, I'll order those:D

[Hairball]

Big Wig - Those are awsome man! Nice work indeed.

Right now I'm just using some groovy tie wraps one mine, and I'll probably upgrade to hose clamps soon mainly because they are cheap and easy to come by.

[MaxxQbn]

I am thinking of buying a TXT-1 to complement my E-Maxx. I have a few ?'s I hope you all can answer.

What is the best recommended setup to increase speed? Not too much speed. I can use my E-maxx for that. I just want to double the speed and perhaps add torque. I was thinking of adding a Novak Super Rooster, but want motors that do not require much maintenance like the Titans.

Should I go with an EVX Titan Setup. I want to keep most of the stock tranny and gear parts.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.:)

[RCIDIOT]

at towerhobbies.com, for 4ws, it says "Four wheel steering is available by installing 2 way connector (included)." what is a 2 way connector, (a splitter im thinking)? and is that what i need to install another servo?

[Hairball]

MaxxQbn -
The EVX / Titan setup might blow your stock tranny gears. They (titans) don't seem as radical as the Speed Gem 19T doubles i ran, but they still ahve plenty of power. The truck does come with one extra set of gears, so go ahead and try it, if you blow a gear or two, you'll know why. :D

I would upgrade the tranny (actually, I did) to a E-Maxx one. Much stronger, better gear ratios, 2 speed, etc...

Check out http://home.jps.net/~hairball/ and read my section on "More Power" under the mods page. It'll tell you what you need to know.

RCIDIOT -
You need a "Y" harness. There are two types. One just lets you control two servos with one channel, and the other type does the same thing, but reverses one of the servos. I would get the reversing model, that way you can setup the rear of the truck the same as the front.

If you don't use a reversing "Y" harness, you have to use Tamiya's hardware servo reversing setup. All I can say about this is DON'T DO IT! It sucks. :)

The "Y" harness I use is made by Cirrus. works great. And, you can re-center the rear servo independantly from the front one, making it easy for the truck to steer straight, and saving tons of time in legth linkage adjustments.

[MaxxQbn]

Hairball, thanks for the advice. Sounds good and I'll take it into account when I start making mods.

More importantly, where can I get one cheap. Lowest orice I found so far in the States on the web is $380 USD. I saw that there is a guy who sells them from Hong Kong on E-Bay but I am a little skepticle about that. He sells them NIB for $250USD with $75 for shipping. But if anything is deffective will Tamiya replace the parts since I didn't purchase it from one of their dealers. Any thoughts from anyone on this would be great.

By the way, we need to put pressure on the market for more TXT-1 mods. There is a sh@# load for the maxx trucks but not much for the TXT-1.

[Hairball]

Umm, no.

The E/T-Maxx is the "I don't know jack about R/C cars, but still wanna play with everyone else" gift to the R/C challenged. That is why everyone and there brother has one (well, I don't, but anyway). They come fully assembled and ready to run, and they sell like hot cakes. That why there is a huge aftermarket for them.

The TXT-1 is more for the true R/C loving person. It comes in a big box with lots of little parts. Most people wouldn't have a clue what to do with it.

I enjoyed makeing my own parts, and I buy the aftermarket items that either I can't make myself, or I'm too lazy to make myself. Pressuing the market is possible, but not very easy to do. They see that the money is in the Maxx line of trucks because there are so many of them out there.

I mean, last time I was in my LHS,they had about 30 T/Maxxs in boxes ready to sell. How many TXT-1s did they have? 1, maybe 2 on hand.

[ProjectTwin]

The E/T-Maxx is the "I don't know jack about R/C cars, but still wanna play with everyone else" gift to the R/C challenged. That is why everyone and there brother has one (well, I don't, but anyway). They come fully assembled and ready to run, and they sell like hot cakes. That why there is a huge aftermarket for them.

I disagree...but I'm not going to go into it here.

My reason for posting: I put a new lid on the ol' TXT. I figured if I was going to go crawling, I might as well go Jeepin'!

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/txtjeep.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/txtjeep1.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/txtjeep2.JPG

Thought I'd share.

Jason

[JeffHo830]

Hey ProjectTwin, nice looking body for the TXT. Reminds me of the Wild Willy. :) Where do you get your body tho? I'm a Nissan truck fan and had been looking around for a Nissan truck body, but no luck. Do you know anyone makes them? I found the Tamiya King Cab and Kyosho Double Dare. But both are out of production and it's really rare to even get the whole kit. Let alone just the body set. :(

Hey MaxxQbn, I just purchased a NIB TXT from the guy from Ebay (HongKong_Cowboy). It was a flawless experience. The only problem was the email server didn't deliever our emails on time. But once that clear up. The whole transaction took less than 3 days to complete and the package arrived in my hand in about a week via air mail. Packaging was pretty good. Another good one to get from Ebay is StellarModels. They are pretty reputable seller. I got mine from HK_Cowboy for $330 shipped.

Hey guys, I'm looking for the joint boot that use to cover the drive train. Where can I get those? I 1st saw those on System BloodClod's TXT-1. I emailed him awhile back but didn't get an answer from him. Any help would be great. Thanks.

Jeff

[ProjectTwin]

Hey ProjectTwin, nice looking body for the TXT. Reminds me of the Wild Willy. Where do you get your body tho? I'm a Nissan truck fan and had been looking around for a Nissan truck body, but no luck. Do you know anyone makes them? I found the Tamiya King Cab and Kyosho Double Dare. But both are out of production and it's really rare to even get the whole kit. Let alone just the body set.

Jeff, the body is a CJ8 by Pro-Line for the T and E-Maxxes. It is a direct fit.

As for a Nissan, try the stock Monster Pirate body. It is an extended cab like the trucks you mentioned, just fits the TXT better.

Jason

[Hairball]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin


I disagree...but I'm not going to go into it here.

My reason for posting: I put a new lid on the ol' TXT. I figured if I was going to go crawling, I might as well go Jeepin'!

Thought I'd share.

Jason

Twin -

First off, Nice TXT!! The Jeep body looks like it belongs there. :)

Second, why do you disagree with my post? I'm not trying to start a flame war here, I'm just curious. I mean, the truck is RTR and aimed at a market where people either don't wan tto but the models together, or don't have the technicaly background to do it well.

[ProjectTwin]

Thanks Hairball!

[nonflammatory response]

My disagreement comes in the fact that there are many people who feel the T and E-Maxxes do not deserve the sucess they have. Why? For the fact that they are RTR. The problem with this is that:

When you buy an RTR, there are those that jump to the conclusion that RTR means "entry level". Not true.

I remember back in the days of the Clod, when it hit the market...

Truck would run you 250+. Then you still need radio, batteries, and charger. The Clod was so cool that many of the people that wanted it didn't know how to build it (at least the kids I went to school with). So, tack on another $75-125 for a build fee!

My hat's off to Traxxas for sticking their neck out there and doing the RTR thing. It's brought many new people into the hobby, even if those are the ones who "don't know jack about R/C cars, but still wanna play with everyone else".

If T-Maxxes were sold as a kit, would your viewpoint change?

Dont be put off by the popularity or "sterotype" a vehicle has. Experience it for yourself, then make your judgement.

Keep in mind, not all R/Cs will appeal to everyone, but each vehicle has a target market. That, couple with a good design, and support (stellar as far as Traxxas goes), will result in a sucessful vehicle.

If Tamiya would wise up and offer parts by the part,not the parts tree and have them as easily accessable as traxxas parts are, it'd be scary how big they'd be.

[/nonflammatory response] ;)

BTW, Jeff...

Contact Clayton at http://www.ballisticstupidity.com

He can hook you up with Freddy. Clayton runs Freddy's booties and has his e-mail addy.

Jason

[Hairball]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin
Thanks Hairball!

[nonflammatory response]

When you buy an RTR, there are those that jump to the conclusion that RTR means "entry level". Not true.

I remember back in the days of the Clod, when it hit the market...

My hat's off to Traxxas for sticking their neck out there and doing the RTR thing. It's brought many new people into the hobby, even if those are the ones who "don't know jack about R/C cars, but still wanna play with everyone else".

If T-Maxxes were sold as a kit, would your viewpoint change?

Dont be put off by the popularity or "sterotype" a vehicle has. Experience it for yourself, then make your judgement.

If Tamiya would wise up and offer parts by the part,not the parts tree and have them as easily accessable as traxxas parts are, it'd be scary how big they'd be.

[/nonflammatory response] ;)


I have to agree that if Tamiya sold parts BY THE PART, and not on trees, they'd be a lot better. And if more hobby shops would carry parts for them as well. When I was living in Southern California I was only about 45 mins from the Tamiya factory (neat place btw) so I could just drive up there to buy parts for my broken TXT-1. On one occasion I needed just the peice on top of the axles that connects the 4 link setup. Well, they don't sell just the peice I need, they sell the enitre parts tree including the axle cases and other part I didn't need. It cost me a whole lot more than that piece should have cost too. Now I've got two complete axles just hanging out, wating for the rest of the parts to finish them.... hehe

I do believe that Traxxas should offer a kit version of the T/E-Maxx. With so many after market peices availible, it kinda sucks buying a BUILT kit, and then just tearing it apart anyway to change out the stuff you don't want.

And IMHO the T-Maxx (a friend has one thats stock) and I think its WAY underpowered. A .21 Maxx would probably be about right. I don't have any first hand experience with an E-Maxx, but I think with the right motors and batteries it would be a great toy to play with.

My problem with the Maxx trucks is that people buy them, and when they break they have no clue how ti fix them, turning local hobby shops into local R/C garages. "Ok, broken A-Arm, Stripped spur gear, broken body mount..., I should have it done by Thursday or Friday" :)

That, and the fact that people keep calling them monster trucks, but I won't get into that, everyone knows exactly where that will lead. But I'm a scale monster truck kinda guy. I like things to work like they do in the full size world.

A kit version of the truck (even with all the required stuff like radio gear) would be SOO much better. Hobbyists would leave how the truck works, and how to fix the thing, so if they break it, they'll have an idea of how to fix it as well.

-=Hairball=-

[MaxxQbn]

Hairball / ProjectTwin,

You both have valid arguments. However, if you don't mind, I'll give you my point of view.

I bought my E-Maxx as an intro to the hobby. If I had seen the TXT-1 in the LHS, I may have considered it. However, Traxxas has done a stellar job of putting the Maxx trucks out there. I had started making mods on the E-Maxx one month into owning it. Unfortunately, I don't have the tools or resources to make my own parts so I buy aftermarket. Needless to say, I've put a ton a $$ into the maxx.

The work I have done on the E-Maxx has only inspired me to delve into this hobby a little deeper. Hence my thirst for a kit, which I can mod and make my own from the start. My posts are geared towards opinions as to avoid the mistakes others have made. I spend my money, I don't waste it.

I am a professional and look to this hobby to escape from the everyday rat race. I don't regret starting with the E-maxx. But I look forward to other projects.

I just hope to keep getting good tips from members like you.

[Skribble]

Hairball, where did you live in Southern California?

[Hairball]

Well, I'm originally from a small town outside of Sacramento, CA, then I spent 2 years in Oceanside, CA (Camp Pendleton), and now I'm in Okinawa, Japan for the remainded of the year. I'll be moving back to Sacramento when I get the hell out of the Marine Corps.

4 years is enough, thank you. :D

[Big Wig]

Hairball and RCtinkerman, thanks for the compliments on my sway bar clamps!

RCtinkerman, I just want you to know that I had no intention of selling my clamps... I didn't say anything in my post about selling them. I just wanted to know what you guys thought. So when you say you'll wait until Ballistic Stupidity makes some then you'll buy them... you'll have to! Mine aren't for sale. I appreciate your comments but a simple "hey, those are cool..." or even a "those are crappy... " would've been just fine.

regards
Jay

[ProjectTwin]

My problem with the Maxx trucks is that people buy them, and when they break they have no clue how ti fix them, turning local hobby shops into local R/C garages. "Ok, broken A-Arm, Stripped spur gear, broken body mount..., I should have it done by Thursday or Friday"

Everyone has to get their start somewhere, and RTR is most times that starting point. I wonder what woudl happen if a TXT were offered as one of Tamiya's XB kits with an AD Spec radio.

That, and the fact that people keep calling them monster trucks, but I won't get into that, everyone knows exactly where that will lead. But I'm a scale monster truck kinda guy. I like things to work like they do in the full size world.

Real monster trucks do not get 10 feet of wheel travel and move at 300 miles an hour. The reality in the TXT stops at size and the fact that it has solid axles. If you want a truck that performs as a 1:1 monster truck does, but at 1:10 scale...check out a stock Clod or a stock Jugg.

Real monster trucks do not rockcrawl...

Jason

[JeffHo830]

Thanks Jason for the infos. I had been looking for places that sells the Onfa Monster Priate body. But unsuccessful so far. Do they sell the body seperately as a replacement part? Or they only come with a kit? Thanks again.

Jeff

[ProjectTwin]

Jeff, you should be able to get the body seperately...

Jason

[speedydave]

hairball, what city are you going to move back to? you may be close to where I am...

[Hairball]

SAC TOWN USA!! :) But that won't be until March 2003.

where are you?

[Hairball]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin
Real monster trucks do not rockcrawl...

Jason [/B]

Well, They would if they could find rocks big enough!! :D

j/k :)

Good points to argue Jason. I'm just going to leave it be. :) Maxx trucks are cool, just not something I'm really interested in I guess.

I'm been playing with the idea of building a E-Maxx from parts off eBay, maybe now is a good time to start.

[ProjectTwin]

I'm been playing with the idea of building a E-Maxx from parts off eBay, maybe now is a good time to start.

Good way to go about it! You can also find good deals on parts at MaxxTraxx. Guys there are usually selling parts, although used.

I guess we'll agree to disagree. ;)

Jason

[ProjectTwin]

Here's pics from today's outing with the TXT.

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/stp

Today's damage: One set of metal servo gears.

I guess it's time for a servo-saver :p

Jason

[Hairball]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin
Here's pics from today's outing with the TXT.
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/stp
Today's damage: One set of metal servo gears.
I guess it's time for a servo-saver :p
Jason

Probably a good idea. :) I use a white kimbrough heavy duty servo saver on mine (front and rear). I had to *cut* a little off to make it fit right, but its all good. :)

I've been told the Kimbrough 1/8th scale black ones are the best, but when I was buying mine, my LHS was out of them, so I just got the white ones instead. Maybe its a good time to put in a order to tower....

Where were you driving your TXT-1 in those picks? Looks like a GREAT spot to go scale rock crawlin. I'm got some cool rocks outside my barracks that I'm going to attack this weekend. Hopfulyl I'll remember to take my Nikon with me. :rolleyes:

[Hairball]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin


Good way to go about it! You can also find good deals on parts at MaxxTraxx. Guys there are usually selling parts, although used.

I guess we'll agree to disagree. ;)

Jason

Wow, a TXT-1 vs E-Maxx (kinda) discussion ended without a flame war. We'll have to write this one down in the history books.

[WFO]

do you guys run foams? pros and cons?

I just put on pro-line giant tracs and they did not come with foams so I havent glued them yet

If I need the foams ,does someone sell them for clod tires ...or ?

thanks guys

[Hairball]

I used Ofna monster pirate foams in my tires. They don't conpress as much, and I think this gives better traction.

[DS5160]

Hairball mentioned that you had a discussion without a flame war, and I for one am very happy to have read the posts. I've been thinking about a monster truck for a bit, and have basically decided on either the E-Maxx or TXT-1. They both have pros and cons, and you've covered them nicely. Thank you both, and everyone else that chipped in. My list to try and help me decide is nearly filling a full sheet of paper. The main reason I don't want an E-Maxx, all my friends have one. I'd really like something different. I still don't know what I'll get.

[NitroRookie]

In the overall area of Electric Monster Trucks would you class the TXT-1 or E-Maxx.

#1
or
#2

In the Electric Monster Truck Catergory. If #1 and why the same goes for #2.

[Hairball]

DS5160 -

Well, if you want to stay competative with your friends, a E-Maxx is the way to go. The perform better than the TXT-1, handling, speed, etc..

If you want to stand out and have a REALLY REALLY cool truck, climb rocks and be Unique, the TXT-1 is the way to go.

I'm more into monster trucks (real ones) than really big sadium trucks (E/T-Maxx).

If your just after really really big tires, you can put Clod/Juggernaut/TXT-1 tires on the Maxx trucks with adapters.

If you want to get a TXT-1 and race with it, well, you're going to have to put some money into it for sure. :D Buts thats half the fun of owning the truck.

If you need any help with anything, please post it up here, and I'll do what I can to help you out.

[NitroRookie]

I already have an E-Maxx. So would you suggest the TXT-1 be my next RC purchase. That is after I have my current bills paid off.

[RCIDIOT]

Hairball- how much money have you put into your txt? what's it worth now, assuming everything is in mint condition?

i was thinking of upgrading mine, getting some Trinity Speed Gem 2 Sapphire 17T, and a Novak Super Rooster. Would i have to upgrade my gears or anything, i dont want them to melt like hairballs'. Would i need anything else (mine is stock right now)?
:confused: :confused: :confused:

[Hairball]

Originally posted by RCIDIOT
Hairball- how much money have you put into your txt? what's it worth now, assuming everything is in mint condition?


You're gona love this one... (I kept a record of everything)

Nov 24 - TXT-1 Truck, used. $300
Nov 26 - Novak EVX $100
Hitec HS-5925MG Servo $100
Connectors and wire $30
Nov 28 - Ballistic Stupidity Skid Plate $20
Nov 28 - Ko Propo EX-11 Presto /w Ko Recv. $110
Dec 02 - Bearings $44
Pinions 18T x2 $7
Ofna Monster Foams $15
Speed Gems 19D x2 $60
Dec 10 - Spare Parts from Tamiya (suspension) $35
(Gears / Shafts / Screws)
Dec 16 - 2x New Era Lower Supports $96
Dec 20 - E-Maxx Transmission + Xtra Spurs $110
Dec 23 - E-Maxx Transmission Aluminum Mounts $0 (4 hours work)
Dec 24 - Shifter Linkage + Mounts $8
Dec 26 - Ko Propo Extra Channel Unit $35
Jan 01 - GPM Oversized Threaded Shocks (4) $80
Jan 05 - 2 E-Maxx Titan motors $40
Jan 22 - Spare Parts from Tamiya (axle parts) $88
Jan 25 - Hitec HS-5925MG Servo (Rear Steering) $110
"Y" Harness
Jan 26 - Ko Propo Fail Safe Unit $45
Jan 27 - Cirrus "Y" Harness with servo reverse $20
Jan 28 - RAM 35 Solid State Switch $35
Feb 08 - Spare Parts (Steering knuckles) $15
Feb 16 - TXT-1 #2 eBay (*** is wrong with me?) $635
Mar 12 - TXT-1 & Gear shipped to Okinawa, Japan $196


Total thus far - ~$2335

I have no idea what It's worth now, I guess it all comes down to what someone would pay for it. And I'm sure there is a few items that didn't make that list, I'll have to think about that one.

Honestly, I doubt I could get $900 for it. People don't like spending insane amounts of cash on R/C cars.

-=Hairball=-

[Usagi]

Hey thos tamiya txt-1 shocks are finally out! shop cost 2250 yen for a pair . blue color........
and the smaller chassy brances are out 2650 yen for a set of 2.........


its a good day for txt-1 owners.TINKER The shocks are out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:)

[DS5160]

Hairball. Thanks for the offer. The two reasons I am leaning towards the E-Maxx are the price, and the fact that I would have tons of help and spare parts available if I broke something not in my toolbox. Drawbacks to the E-Maxx, everybody and their grandmother has one. The reasons I would choose the TXT-1 include it's just cool, it's different, and the climbing prowess. The drawbacks are the money issues. Knowing that I'd have to spend almost $800 to get the truck, radio, motors, bearings, esc, and transmission are a real turnoff. (From your list, that seems close to reality.) I know I'd want the faster motors and the esc from what I've read. Which also means the new transmission. I primarily want to climb hills and rocks with the MT that I buy. So competing with them racing isn't an issue. I have a T3 that I use for jumping and racing right now, so the TXT-1 is really what I'd like to get. I just have a tough time justifying that amount of cash when there are so many other things on my list of financial priorities. The debate still rages in my mind.

[Hairball]

Your welcome! :)

The TXT-1 is a very expensive toy for sure. I wouldn't sell mine for the world (well, maybe the world, but the buyer would have to get me drunk first). :D

You can see the time frame that I bought all that junk. It wasnt all at once, but pretty close too it. I'm lucky enough to be able to spend whatever I like on my R/C hobby (the wife thinks it keeps me out of trouble, so she doesnt mind) so whenever I come up with a cool idea, I jump in my truck and head out to the hobby shop (well, that was until I shipped out to Japan).

Climbing is what the TXT-1 was meant for, so you won't be disapointed in that area. I say if you can hold out, save up and get one. Watch eBay closely and you'll find some great deals on everything you'll need to get started.

Or just go max out your Visa and get started tomorrow... :D (kidding, please don't do that... credit cards are evil)

[Timmy]

I been hearing alot that the TXT-1 is a great climber. Does anyone have a video to back it up. I really lke to watch the real rock climbing trucks in action. Also if someone did a comparsion video or pics of a E-Maxx and a TXT-1 on the same course/track that would be neat. Just to see how big of a difference a solid axle makes. I tried rock climbing with my T3 for fun. Definitly doesn't work to good. Have you guys ever tried it with a Stampede. That is more in my price range now. 76.99 and 20.99 for bearings. Thanks

[ProjectTwin]

Timmy,

Click on the http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/images/home.gif below and check out the TXT movies on my site. There are a few crawling vids there.

Jason

[DS5160]

Well, I will be getting the solid axle MT sometime in early June, probably. I'll be back from vacation then. Either it'll be the TXT-1 or a Clodbuster. A friend of a friend may still have a used Clod that's all hopped up that he'd be willing to sell. If the price is right, then it'll be a Clod over the TXT-1. Otherwise, I'll get the TXT. Thanks for all the great comments.

[speedydave]

Hey guys. For anyone who goes to the Joisey-Maxx TXT forum, you may have already seen this question, but I'll ask it here too. I have seen clods and juggs with PL Clod tires, but no TXT1's(well, I have, but not full on pics, lemme explain). I always thought the clods and the Jugg i saw(on ESP's site) look cool, but with the TXT1's bumpers and chassis, they may make it look WAY different. Could someone post a pic please, if you have these tires? Also, what kind of performance do these tires add on different surfaces(grass, hard packed dirt, loose dirt, concrete, etc)? Thanks. :)

[WFO]

Hey guys I did my first run with the txt1 today!

man this truck rules heres some pics (thanks big wig)

pic 1

[WFO]

pic 2

[WFO]

i broke nothing today wooohooo
BUT i do need to lock the diffs

[WFO]

pic3

[WFO]

pic 4

[WFO]

another

[WFO]

last one...........I cant belive how good this truck crawls

[speedydave]

Nice! I take it you didn't run the stock tires? How are the PL Giant Trac's? What foams do you use, if any? One last question, are the Giant Trac's M2 compound, or XTR(M2 is softer). I doubt PL would make M3's...

[bluesy]

WFO.... great action pix of the TXT.... you surely did get into some fabulous crawling country. I haven't been brave enough yet to get into the real muddy crud yet...... Crawl on.....!!!!!!! :cool: :cool:

[Timmy]

Very nice pics. I would be careful in that water. That would be cool if you can get some video of that area of your truck crawling. Looks like the TXT-1 is going to be a leader in crawling for a while. I hope traxxas gets the idea and builds a solid axle E-Maxx.

[NitroRookie]

Jeep, Your TXT-1 must have lots of power to make rooster tails like that.

Does your TXT-1 make or do decent power wheelies like the big monsters?

[NitroRookie]

I thought it was impossible to run 540 motors on 14.4 volt without frying the motor. Don't 540 motors run on 7.2 volt. And 550 motors run on 14.4 volt.

[NitroRookie]

Jeep,

How long will the bushings that come with the TXT-1 last before they need to be replaced with bearings?

[jacknjul]

It's True! I watched him drive his TXT-1 today, and it ran awesome! Here is a pic of Jeep's truck that I took today.
<img src=http://www.theshreves.com/pics/txt1sand1.jpg>

[Hairball]

Yup, 540 motors running on 14.4v CAN melt. Mine sure did. Jeepinator's are still holding out though. Maybe I just got a bad motor? It looked like the bearing on the endbell seized up, and caused a MAJOR heat build up, and thats probably what caused the endbell to melt. oh well. :)

Traxxas 550 Titan motors work pretty well, but they DO NOT have the low end torque that 540 mod motors do. No where near as close. Sucks really. Because if I'm right up against an obsticle, my motors will just stall out and not PUSH the truck up and over, I have to get a little bit (like 2 inches) or a running start.

When I was running the 540s 19T doubles, well, there was no stoping the truck. I'm starting to rethink my power train setup and I'm thinking about going to one, maybe two Novak Super Rosters, and then going with 540 mod motors again.

I want to get away from Traxxas parts. :D

I also want to redo the battery tray and radio tray (again) hoping to balance out the weight a little better. Two 6-cell packs in the rear of the truck isn't really a good thing. It works, but having one pack one each end would be better I think. My shifter servo needs to get moved to.

Jeep - heres one for you.
Since we both run the same digital servos, I have found that mine use a lot of battery juice, and if they are being forced into a position (like, stuck in rocks with the tires wedged) and I try to move them back to there centers using the radio, I lose throttle control until I can get them to where they aren't being forced into a position. Have you had this problem? Its like the servos are taking so much power from the reciever, that signal going to the EVX speedo loses power, and will not work until the servo stops sucking so much power.

Maybe I need to run a Rx pack?? That would make the radio gear independant from the main packs, and could solve the power problem. Any thoughts?

Also, what do you think of my Super Roster / dual Super Roster idea? I've seen it done on many clods before, and I'm wondering if its a good idea here? The reason for two would be to give each motor its OWN battery pack, and then run the radios with a Rx pack.

Any ideas from anyone out there?

Also, I need better servo savers!!! The white Kimbrough ones I have need to die. They give to easy, even on carpet. I know running the aluminum servo arms would be best, but I don't want to damage the servos either.

-=Hairball=-

[WFO]

speedydave-

I love the prolines(as far as i know theres only one compound)
and I bought monster pirate foams but I never installed them and I never willl......... lol

with no foams these tires are great for crawling etc and no too bad everywhere else

just my 2 cents

[ProjectTwin]

Hairball,

Try the black Kimbrough for gas vehicles.

Getting away from Traxxax parts? Does that mean you're going back to a stock tranny?

Have you thought about some Magnetic Mayhems? They're a 7.2V 550. They're also about 20 bucks at Tower.

Jason

[Hairball]

PTwin -

Magnetic Mayhems? I may have to check those out. And yes, I'm think about going back to the stock tranny. I never really use high gear in the E-Maxx tranny anyway. And now that there is stronger gears availible, my needs may be full filled. The Derlin gears are expensive though, but at the same time, the stock tranny ran so much smoother than the Maxx one does.

Maybe I'm just being weird. I dunno. I'll keep ya'll informed of what I end up doing. :)

Its just that when I had the 19T Doubles / stock tranny in the truck, ITS WAS A BEAST, now with the titans / maxx tranny, it seems to have calmed down a bit. No more broken gears, but also a lack of power compared to what is was before.

[NitroRookie]

Hairball or Jeep,

Would you guys class the TXT-1 as the Best Realistic Box-Stock Monster Truck in the History of Electric RC Monster Trucks?

If so, Please explain way you guys think that way.

My decision will be based solely on your opinions to the Question above has to what RC I'll be getting in the distant future.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by NitroRookie
Hairball or Jeep,

Would you guys class the TXT-1 as the Best Realistic Box-Stock Monster Truck in the History of Electric RC Monster Trucks?

If so, Please explain way you guys think that way.

My decision will be based solely on your opinions to the Question above has to what RC I'll be getting in the distant future.

Holy Crap, somebody wants MY opinion on this? I'm flattered. :)

Well.... I think the TXT-1 is the best scale monster truck as well. If it did not use cantalever suspension, and just used double shocks on each wheel, it would be perfect.

Even though the catalever setup if far better, its not realistic to the full size monster trucks. as ProjectTwin stated before, real monster trucks DO NOT climb rocks like the TXT-1 does. :D

Other than that, the TXT-1 is the closet you can get to a perfect R/C scale monster truck as far as I know.

[RCtinkerman]

I'll second that HB:D

[Usagi]

trinker those shocks are in and so are the side alum half panels.:)

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Usagi
trinker those shocks are in and so are the side alum half panels.:)

Side aluminum half panels? What in the world??

Got a picture?

[ProjectTwin]

Hairball....

Try the Kimbrough #124 servosaver.

This info is from the TXT FAQ at RCMT.

WARNING: The Kimbrough Products #124 comes with a warning NOT to use it with plastic gear servos, as an example they list the following as working fine with the #124:

Airtronics #94357-94358
Futaba #S9302-3302
Hitec #HS-604BB
JR Propo #S4735-S605
KO Propo #PS-1001 FET - PS-1003 FET

Its just that when I had the 19T Doubles / stock tranny in the truck, ITS WAS A BEAST, now with the titans / maxx tranny, it seems to have calmed down a bit. No more broken gears, but also a lack of power compared to what is was before.

It's because of the slipper on the E tranny. I'm experiencing slip with mine cranked all the way down. That is soon to be fixed though. ;) With the stock tranny every bit of power is sent to the driveline. With the E set-up you have slippage, whether you like it or not. I'm running silver can 540RS (stock TXT motors) with 8 tooth Bolink pinions and a 72 tooth spur. I cranked the slipper down as far as I could crank it. It's still slipping at times. Just the nature of the beast. (makes you wonder why it's called a slipper, eh? :p) Try Traxxas part number TRA4593 first. That should eliminate any slip. Take a look here. (http://www.traxxas.com/products/nitro/nsport/blueprints/Nitro%20Sport%20trans%20assy.pdf)

I am not a very good person to answer your question. Jason (ProjectTwin) would be far better at answering this question. The TXT-1 is my first scale monster truck. Jason has a long history with monster trucks. I do not.
But, since you asked, I DO think that it is the best scale electric MT ever made :)

Whoa...lemme pick myself up off the floor. ;) Thanks, Jeep...I think! :p


NitroRookie,

What is your definition of realistic? We all have varying opinions of what's realistic of R/C's. If you see an R/C that performs exactly like a full-scale monster you'll probably be dissapointed.

One of the big complaints from stock Jugg and TXT owners is the speed of the vehicle in stock form. Although it's more realistic as far as scale, it's not very exciting to drive.

The E-Maxx satisfies the speed aspect, and handles great, jumps like a champ, but has independent suspension, not a solid axle.

It all depends on your definition of a "Monster Truck" as far as R/C goes.

I've had fun with all my monster trucks. They all had large differences, but all suited their purpose, to have fun.

Here's a pic from today's driveshaft poppin', metal servo gear breakin' adventure...yes this one is posed...the rest are not.

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/stp/day2/DSC00199.JPG

Here's the rest of the pics...
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/stp/day2/

Jason

[NitroRookie]

To the owners of the TXT-1,

Would you class the Box-Stock TXT-1 as the closest realistic looking R/C next to it's Real World Counterpart?

[NitroRookie]

Originally posted by jeepinator
Am I experiencing some monster deja vu, or is this a social experiment ?


Why do you say that jeep.

Because I think they are two different but simular questions.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by NitroRookie



Why do you say that jeep.

Because I think they are two different but simular questions.

You THINK? You're not sure? You wrote both questions, I'd hope that you'd know if they were different or not.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by NitroRookie



Why do you say that jeep.

Because I think they are two different but simular questions.

You THINK? You're not sure? You wrote both questions, I'd hope that you'd know if they were different or not. :D

[NitroRookie]

Thanks for the reboot Hairball,

I known Both questions are different. But they also have a simular conclution I take from Jeep's Reply.

[RCtinkerman]

ProjectTwin, I hope you don't mind, I'm using one of your great pics as the wallpaper for my computer :cool: I love that shot with the wave breaking in the background. Photography is my second love :D

[Hairball]

Originally posted by RCtinkerman
ProjectTwin, I hope you don't mind, I'm using one of your great pics as the wallpaper for my computer :cool: I love that shot with the wave breaking in the background. Photography is my second love :D

LOL! I'm using the same picture for my background at work.

Hey PTwin - You're famous. :D

[JeffHo830]

Hi guys, still debating on installing the E-maxx tranny. According to Hariball, by installing the E-maxx tranny, you lose some of those power with the stock tranny. Also you need to install the E-maxx tranny in the opposite direction to get the right forward and reverse. Can anyone verify this two things? Also can someone give some pros and cons on this two tranny. Thanks.

Jeff

[ProjectTwin]

stuff I submitted on rcmt:

What about using the E-maxx tranny?
Pros:
Slipper Clutch
More options on gearing (can gear down to 50:1)I'm currently running 8 tooth pinions on a 72 tooth spur...well exceeding 50:1
Two speeds
Easier pinion changes (Have to remove tranny from truck to change pinions with TXT tranny, can simply stick an allen in from the side of the frame and change pinions with E tranny)
more parts availability (internal gears, tranny cases, spur gears)

Cons:
Slipper (for crawling nuts who HAVE to have every bit of power sent to the tires)

As far as speed...Yes, if you install the E tranny with the 540's you'll see a noticable speed increase. It's hard for me to say how much...I'm a terrible judge of speed, but first gear with the E tranny is faster than the stock TXT. (with 540's) With the EVX and Titans, you should be approaching E-maxx speeds.

NOTE: be sure you mount the E tranny with the pinions facing the front. TXT and E tranny output shafts rotate in the opposite direction!


Jason

[Hairball]

Well, I'll start this list. Everyelse feel free to jump in at any time. :D

E-Maxx Tranny VS. Stock TXT-1 / Jugg2 Tranny IN a TXT-1

Maxx Pros -
Won't break gears
2 Speed (kinda pointless in a MT, but anyway)
Better Gearing options
Slipper Clutch
Easier to change motors (still a pain though)

Maxx Cons-
Need custom mounts
No room for Heat sinks on motors because it just barely fits
2 Speed needs custom linkage
Slipper Clutch (some like it, some don't)
Its a Traxxas part. :D
Did I mention its a Traxxas part? :D
Motors hit TXT-1 battery tray


TXT-1 / Jugg2 Tranny Pros -
Its made to fit in the TXT-1
Ultra LOW torque bone stock
No Slipper Clutch
You can use heat sinks on the motors, plently of room

TXT-1 / Jugg2 Tranny Cons -
Weak gears.
Does not come with bearings (easily fixed though)
Did I mention WEAK gears?
Very few gearing options.
Pain to change motors (entire tranny must be removed)

Did I forget anything? :confused:

[Hairball]

Dangit ProjectTwin! You posted while I was typing!! :D

[ProjectTwin]

He-he..

Gotcha!

Did you see the post about the Kimbrough #124?

Might be worth a shot.

I'm going to pick up the Nitro Sport spur adapter and try also.

Jason

[Hairball]

Yes I did, thank you! :)

I'm in the process of building a order for Tower Hobbies right now, and I'm going add a few of those on.

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by Hairball


LOL! I'm using the same picture for my background at work.

Hey PTwin - You're famous. :D

yadda, yadda, yadda...It's April 1st..nice try...;)

Oh..Never mind...it's the 2nd now. i guess the pic is ok...:)

I did pose it and try to time the digi for a cool shot..looks like it worked. Thanks, guys!

Jason

[Hairball]

Actually, I think that pic would be an awesome pic for the reader's rides section of RCCA.

Submit it, you know you want to.

[ProjectTwin]

Maybe if it had some fill flash...needs a little better lighting. The side facing us is a bit dark.

Jason

[Hairball]

Originally posted by jeepinator
About 3 degrees of toe-in per side, in the rear
2-wheel steering (at this point I truly can't see a need for four wheel steering. It turns pretty tight and I have not run into a limitation yet. But, switchable, like Hairball has, would be supremely cool)


Yes it would be. :)

Tell you what, you get the parts, send them to me, I'll wire everything up, TEST IT, make sure it works right, and then I'll send it back. (That goes for just about anyone out there that wants on demand 4WS, but is scared to wire it all together).

How much money you ask? $1 (enough to buy me a mountain dew) :D

I would be more than happy to do the electro-geek work for all the folks that don't want to do it themselves.

[jacknjul]

Originally posted by jeepinator

Anyway, I have been enjoying just a rear sway bar. Today I ran swabarless. I actually hate it.

And, sadly, I am running a servo saver again :(

Wow, I thought your feelings about sway bars and servo savers was that they were for *******?

[Usagi]

Originally posted by jacknjul

Wow, I thought your feelings about sway bars and servo savers was that they were for *******?

wow some things just don`t change:o :rolleyes:

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Usagi


wow some things just don`t change:o :rolleyes:

What the heck are you talking about?

[Usagi]

Originally posted by Hairball


What the heck are you talking about?
his mouth:D

[Hairball]

Juggernaut 2 / TXT-1 Derlin gears.

http://www.gpmracing.com.hk

And a bunch of other cool stuff. :D

[WFO]

I wanted to try and run the traxxas slider shafts in place of my stock driveshafts.

I got the traxxes maxx tranny outdrive cups but they wont fit on the txt output shaft?
can somebody help(explain)how its done/what need to buy?

[junk4calata]

Just drill out the hole in the traxxas shaft to fit over the txt-1 gearbox out put shaft. Once that's done, screw in the traxxas screw that goes all the way thru the shaft. If that gives you a little too much play, enlarge the hole and use a 3mm machine screw with a metal locknut.

Keep in mind that the TXT has metal shafts for a reason ( torque ). If you stick with the slider shafts, I strongly suggest that you strenghten the insides of the shafts. Click for More Info (http://www.maxxtraxx.com/tech/tech045.shtml)

[junk4calata]

BTW, after seeing the twin tranny quad engine SII custom e-maxx, I did a trial fitment for the TXT. 2 Transmissions and 4 motors will fit with about 1/2 day of time and spare hardware. Not that the txt-1 needs more power while running on a EVX speed controller, but its do-able.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
BTW, after seeing the twin tranny quad engine SII custom e-maxx, I did a trial fitment for the TXT. 2 Transmissions and 4 motors will fit with about 1/2 day of time and spare hardware. Not that the txt-1 needs more power while running on a EVX speed controller, but its do-able.

But wouldn't that make the drivelines really short, making the articlulation of the truck worse? Plus the added weight would also have some effect on the truck. And where in the world are you going to put four battery packs? :eek: :eek: :D

"Now lets see, one pack strapped to each side of the chassis, one pack on the front radio tray, one pack on in the stock location... now where to put all the electronic stuff?? I know, I'll just stick em to the under side of the body, ya, that'll work..."

hehehehehe

[murf]

Yeah 4 motors 4 bats and 2 trannys sounds nuts...you would have to find a sticker for that..."4x4x4x4x4x2" or somthing like that. Hey guys I got my SuperRooster and Sapphires installed, real nice...I mounted the SR way in front under the body mounts so it gets direct air from the front on top and below where the servo cutout is for the old msc. Anyway I didn't get too far before one of the lower supports busted at the point where the screws go thru to the top, theres not a whole lot of plastic left with all the holes molded in...aluminum is the way to go, where can I get these?
Thanks

[speedydave]

Do you have to run the tranny with the grease they give you, or could you lube it with something like White Lightning? White Lightning is a bike chain lube that is a liquid but dries waxy to be slippery(like a lube), but actually sheds/shoots the dirt off the gears(as good, if not better, then running the gears dry). Thanks in advance :)

[Hairball]

Originally posted by jeepinator
http://www.neweramodels.com/prod40_txt1.htm

http://www.neweramodels.com/jpeg/txt822.jpg

One of those "must have" TXT-1 mods IMHO :)

Also, very soon Tamiya is coming out with there own aluminum lower supports.

[junk4calata]

But wouldn't that make the drivelines really short, making the articlulation of the truck worse? Plus the added weight would also have some effect on the truck. And where in the world are you going to put four battery packs?
[QUOTE]

In regards to the articulation for the drive shafts, I discovered that if you take off the too upper arm shafts ( as listed in the instructions manual ) that connect from on top of the rear axle to the center of the chassis, the driveshaft can now tilt back about 40 degrees. Its then possible to shorten the upper arm shafts and re-attach them on the chassis closer to the axle. Tilting the axle is off-roaders do on taller lifted 4x4s. As for mounting the 4 packs, you only need 4 if you want to run a Novak EVX, otherwise you would only need 2 batteries which could be easily mounted in the stock battery tray..

I just came up with that as a thought. It would be a totally one off project, impracticle but a one off. You might think its nuts ( I also agree ), but that was also the same thing everyone said when the t-maxx was first converted to dual nitro motors and now New Era is selling kits for it. Besides, no other car in the world is actually labeled 4x4x4x4x4x2 :D :D :D

[junk4calata]

Tamiy will also be coming out with their own Aluminum shock kits and cantis. Personall, I'll make my own set of canti-levers ( You can buy aluminum off eBay for under $9-$10 + $3-$4 for shipping ).

What the TXT needs IMO is Aluminum Knuckles. I already broke my 3rd one in under a week and my hobby shop says its happens often. Towerhobbies and Tamiya state that it is the same knuckle that is used for the Clod Buster

If any one can find them in aluminum, please let me know.Knuckle (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXGB56&P=7)

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
If any one can find them in aluminum, please let me know.Knuckle (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXGB56&P=7)

You didn't check out the GPM Racing site I set you very well did you? :D

The same company that makes the Derlin gears also makes aluminum knuckles for the Jugg 2, which in turn will fit on the TXT-1.

But I wouldn't use them. If the plastic ones break, its a $5 part. If you use aluminum use, they'll hold up, buts the energy has to go somewhere, so something is going to have to give.

The plastic knuckles are cheap insurance, just put in an order to TowerHobbies for like $30 worth, and you'll be good for a long time.

[junk4calata]

HB, I did look at the GPM site, but the ones for the Jugg are phisically different. They are skinnier and the plastic piece that secures into the wheel sill not fit on it.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
HB, I did look at the GPM site, but the ones for the Jugg are phisically different. They are skinnier and the plastic piece that secures into the wheel sill not fit on it.

I don't think so. Ask far as I know, the Clod / Jugg / Jugg 2 / TXT-1 all use the same knuckles. So if the aluminum ones fit one truck, they should fit them all.

They may look different, but they will work exactly the same. Think about it... The Tamiya ones just have *extra* plastic stuff on them making them look different. All and all they are the same thing.

[junk4calata]

Aluminum knuckle (http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=345&car_id=33) and the Tamiya Knuckle (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXGB56&P=7)

Even thou they look physically different, They do actually seem to fit after a more carful observation. Thanks HB.

The reason I broke mine is because the rear wheels are locked in place ( Waiting for parts from Tower to install On-Demand RWS ) and there i nothing to soften the impact. Once a servo saver is installed back there, it should be fine. I already ordered 2 more sets that will be installed with the servo saver at the same time. Once those go out, I will upgrade to the aluminum version.;)

[Hairball]

Having a servo saver on the wheels will help, but you can still break em.

I was flying down the street with my rig and bumped in the curb with the right front wheel. The truck crashed and burned, and the right front tire kept going! :D

It sucked. :)

So I just ordered a bunch on the plastic ones. Only takes about 5 minutes to change one out, so its no big deal.

[ProjectTwin]

Just drill out the hole in the traxxas shaft to fit over the txt-1 gearbox out put shaft. Once that's done, screw in the traxxas screw that goes all the way thru the shaft. If that gives you a little too much play, enlarge the hole and use a 3mm machine screw with a metal locknut.
Or just buy the right parts.

There are two output yokes made for the Maxx vehicles:

TRA4928 is the 6mm yoke that fits the TXT and E-Maxx tranny output shafts.

TRA4927 is the 5mm yoke used on the T-Maxx.

Two packs of 4928's and one pack of 4951's are all you need to convert. No cutting, drilling, filing, or grinding are required. The Traxxas pins fit through the TXT input shafts on the diffs.

Jason

[murf]

Yeah the knuckles are Tamiya "D" parts...D1 and D2, it says ClodBuster 1987 right on it. I'm with Hairball on not using the aluminum ones...if ya hit it hard the axle housing will probabbly break instead and that is a "lot" more work and more $$$ to replace. Hey Jeep and HB thanks for the info on the lower supports, 40 bucks a pair seemes a little steep, but there is a lot of work in those things. I had a slow day at work and started making my own out of some .250 aluminum plate. I'll try and put a pic up here:

[Hairball]

Murf -

You're a Machinist!!! OMG! We need to talk. :D

Very nice work on the custom lower supports. Not sure if I like the deisgn though. The starts are a little weird.

[murf]

Hey HairBall, yeah I put the stars in there instead of the triangle cutout...I know you have seen those stars many times, its the Tamiya logo!!! HE-HE...it could be "HB" in balloon letters too...the hardest part was measuring the old plastic one, it really is a bad molding (lots of shrink) and the front edges have a big radius on them so it was tough to get an accurate caliper reading...I was only off on one dimension cause of that, I'll use these for the back and make the changes for the fronts...have to drill the holes tommorrow deburr and give em a tumble then put it all back together again...heres a better pic:

[junk4calata]

Murf, if you don't mind me asking, whats a tumbler ?

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
Murf, if you don't mind me asking, whats a tumbler ?

A tumbler is a machine that either tumbles (like, round and round) or vibrates with abrasive *media* inside it.

Media can be a number of things. When I clean rifle brass (emtpy casins) I used crushed walnut shells for media.

Now, what this does it remove and dirt, oil, grease, cutting fluid, etc from the item being tumbled. Gives it a real good cleaning. In Murf's case, after he tumbles it, it'll be ready for painting, polishing, anodizing, or just installing on the truck. Whatever he choses to do to them.

-Andy

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
Murf, if you don't mind me asking, whats a tumbler ?

A tumbler is a machine that either tumbles (like, round and round. for example a rock tumbler / polisher) or vibrates with abrasive *media* inside it.

Media can be a number of things. When I clean rifle brass (emtpy casins) I used crushed walnut shells for media.

Now, what this does it remove and dirt, oil, grease, cutting fluid, etc from the item being tumbled. Gives it a real good cleaning. In Murf's case, after he tumbles it, it'll be ready for painting, polishing, anodizing, or just installing on the truck. Whatever he choses to do to them.

I'm an amature machinist / gunsmith myself, so I know the basics with the metal world. Weld a little too. :D

-Andy

[junk4calata]

Thanks HB. It seems we ( people in general on this forum ) have more in common than just the TXT. I myself like working with metal, electronics, and mechanicals. As for welding, I welded my own custom roll cage for the t-maxx when I had it. I do some sheetmetal at work ( Aircraft Mechanic ) and am just getting involved with thicker metals. I made my own e-maxx tranny mounts for the txt, and am planning on making my own canti-levers. I do not have access to a machine shop, just metal cutters, benders, sanders, etc.

After I am done upgrading the TXT, I plan on getting a Thunder Tiger Unlimited with a 91.0 engine. Also in my plans, is a custom made tube chassis road racer based on an e-maxx with dual brushless motors.

[Hairball]

Back home in California, I've got my own small machine shop (Milling / Drilling Machine / two Lathes / metal bandsaw / drill press / bench grinder, etc) a MIG welder, and a Acytelene cutting torch, plus about a million various hand tools.

When I get a chance to spend a few days at home, I usaually end up spending the whole time in the garage going to town on some poor hunk of metal. :)

I'm been thinking REALLY hard about spending the $10K and getting a good Bridgeport mill with the CNC upgrade option for the future. It probably won't happen because the wife would have my head, but I can dream right?

[Hairball]

Here is a cool link for all you monster trucks freaks! :D

http://pub11.ezboard.com/frcmtnetworkmessageboardrcmtnetworkreadersrides.sh owMessage?topicID=4081.topic

Check out his cable steering system. Its got to be one of the coolest mods I've seen yet. Wish I would have thought of it first. :rolleyes:

[JeffHo830]

Hey guys, just more questions about the E-maxx tranny from me. I'm thinking about pairing up the stock tranny with the Trinity 17x1 motors instead of putting in the E-maxx tranny. Since it's gonna be a lot of trouble just getting the mount. Will I see some improvement on speed compare to the stock motors? Also just a survey here for those that did the E-maxx tranny. Why did you guys do it? For the speed? Just to be different and the challenge of getting it to work? Thanks for the helps.

Jeff

[ProjectTwin]

Jeff...I had a TXT before they were available in the states and hated the slow speed, but still wanted to crawl. The tranny was the same as the jugg, so i knew that motor/pinion changes would be a pain. Since I had the E tranny laying around....;) This truck ended up modified with the e tranny installed and running in less than 24 hours from the time I bought it. I've never regretted doing it. I'd put it up there with HB's New Era braces as a "Must Have"

You can look at the Pro/Con list in this thread for more reasons to go the E tranny route.

Jason

[JeffHo830]

I know it's not the best place to ask. But would anyone here have the tools and willing to make a E-maxx tranny mount for me? I asked around hoping someone I know I would be about to help me. But no luck. Waited for New Era to get this stock in and I called. They said not for awhile. Ballastic Stupidity is putting the mount on their lowest piority. Welcome any advises concerning getting the tranny to mount by someone that is not too good with his tools. Thanks.

Jeff

[Hairball]

I'd make them for you if I had the equipment. I may have a hook up at another company in my battalion. It'll cost my a 6 pack of bud, buts thats no biggie. I'll let you know what I find out.

[MaxxQbn]

Everyone!

Thanks for the comments on this thread. I just ordered my TXT-1 from Hong Kong. Unfortunatly it will take a week to get here. I have already ordered a super rooster esc.

Couple of questions:

Has anyone thought of using a t-maxx tranny instead of an E-maxx tranny. I would think it would hold up better to the stress and will shift automatically. Maybe I am missing something?