Tamiya TXT-1 v1.0

[MaxxQbn]

Well folks, I think I got beat for $330.

I ordered my TXT-1 on Ebay from StellaModels (Kong Kong). They say they shipped it on the 5th of April. 19 days and counting, still no TXT-1. They didn't even ship it so it can be tracked. Does anyone know what I can do at this point. They also stopped returning my e-mails. :(

[ProjectTwin]

junk4calata,

When you type each message, you'll see an attach file box under the text entry box...just browse your HD for the pic and select it.

Jason

[Hairball]

Originally posted by MaxxQbn
Well folks, I think I got beat for $330.

I ordered my TXT-1 on Ebay from StellaModels (Kong Kong). They say they shipped it on the 5th of April. 19 days and counting, still no TXT-1. They didn't even ship it so it can be tracked. Does anyone know what I can do at this point. They also stopped returning my e-mails. :(

You can contact eBay. They have buyer / seller protection policies. I think they also insure you're purchase for up to a certain amount.

Did you use you're credit card to purchase the TXT-1? Your credit card company may also insure your transactions. You may want to look into that.

I'm sorry to hear that your transaction went south. Mail coming and going from overseas (especally big stuff like the TXT-1) can take quite a bit of time. It may show up soon after all. Don't give
up hope just yet.

Good luck.

[MaxxQbn]

Originally posted by Hairball


You can contact eBay. They have buyer / seller protection policies. I think they also insure you're purchase for up to a certain amount.

Did you use you're credit card to purchase the TXT-1? Your credit card company may also insure your transactions. You may want to look into that.

I'm sorry to hear that your transaction went south. Mail coming and going from overseas (especally big stuff like the TXT-1) can take quite a bit of time. It may show up soon after all. Don't give
up hope just yet.

Good luck.

Thanks for the vote of confidence.

BTW, what hop ups do you recommend to start. I already have a Hitec digital servo and Novak Super Rooster waiting for the TXT-1.

[JeffHo830]

Hey MaxxQbn, what method of transport did you used? If it's ground. It can take as long as 6-8 weeks to get to their destination from oversea. I ordered mine TXT-1 from a Hong Kong vendor mid Jan, and it didn't get to my possession until like mid March. So just be patient and wait for the reply from your seller. Good Luck !!!

Jeff

[Hairball]

Originally posted by MaxxQbn


Thanks for the vote of confidence.

BTW, what hop ups do you recommend to start. I already have a Hitec digital servo and Novak Super Rooster waiting for the TXT-1.

Ugh. Didn't I already cover this somewhere? :D

What do you plan on doing with the truck? cruising around and minor crawling? Or *balls to the walls* thrashing bashing?

For durability, I recommend New Era Models (http://www.neweramodels.com) aluminum lower supports. A little pricey, but you'll new break then, and the stock ones will break like its going out of style.

Motors. The stock 540 *silver can* motors blow chunks. Plain and simple. I first used Trinity Speed Gems 19T doubles. Insane speed. Awsome. Crazy even. But a little too much to be honest. Try sticking with higher turn mods, like 22T doubles or something. Peak (http://www.peakmotors.com) makes some nice ones to try out. Tower Hobbies (http://www.towerhobbies.com) sells them. :D

The stock shocks are a little stiff, but will work just fine. Changeing them out for aluminum ones is more of a cosmetic change than anything else.

Skid Plate. A must in my opinion. Again, New Era Models (http://www.neweramodels.com) makes a very nice one. And Ballistic Stupidity (http://www.ballisticstupidity.com) makes some equally nice ones as well. I use the BS one myself.

Bearings. GET BEARINGS! Don't even bother assembling the truck using the included bronze bushings. You're just going to end up tearing it done and replacing them all with good ball bearings. Why not just install bearings from the get go? :)

What else? Hmm, well, if I havent covered it here, check out my webpage. You'll find some good stuff there.

http://www.txt1.net

If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask, I'll do what I can.

[junk4calata]

Thanks Jason.

[junk4calata]

Hi,

This info is directed more towards Andy, but I am posting it here in case anyone else is also interested.

Andy,

You remember I gave you the idea about RWS. Well, now that I finally have my truck, I also installed RWS, but have figured out a simple way to take it a step further. I can have 3way On-Demand RWS. Its quite simple. You know how your current setup is installed. Well, I figured that if you install another ram 35 switch in parallel to the current one and 2 "y" harnesses before the failsafe, its possible to have 3way On-Demand RWS. A Genius of an idea. Even Tamiya engineers couln't figure that out.

In my case, I have a stick radio and can do the 3way steering all from one stick only and leaving the other channels open.

I am going to install this once I get my second Ram 35. Then I will be taking pictures once it is complete.:D :D :D :D

[junk4calata]

:D :D :D :D :D :D

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
Hi,

This info is directed more towards Andy, but I am posting it here in case anyone else is also interested.

Andy,

You remember I gave you the idea about RWS. Well, now that I finally have my truck, I also installed RWS, but have figured out a simple way to take it a step further. I can have 3way On-Demand RWS. Its quite simple. You know how your current setup is installed. Well, I figured that if you install another ram 35 switch in parallel to the current one and 2 "y" harnesses before the failsafe, its possible to have 3way On-Demand RWS. A Genius of an idea. Even Tamiya engineers couln't figure that out.

In my case, I have a stick radio and can do the 3way steering all from one stick only and leaving the other channels open.

I am going to install this once I get my second Ram 35. Then I will be taking pictures once it is complete.:D :D :D :D

OH MY GOD, HES WHACKED!! You're even crazier than I am Nick... :D

I was thinking about doing something like that, but not using the RAM35, RAM makes a 4 way switch, and I was going to use that to have FWS, RWS, 4WS, and crabwalking. Then I realized how much room all of that electroic gear would take up and changed my mind. hehehe

I'm been trying to design a new upper deck for my TXT-1. Don't like the battery tray setup. It puts all the weight on the rear of the truck making it unbalanced. I found that I could make a single peice upper deck like ProjectTwin did, battery slot it like on a touring car, and put one pack at each end on truck, balancing the weight of the batteries.

This also will help the packs cool off, because there will be more free flowing air around them, and I can get some heatsink type battery straps on them as well.

With both packs installed, I have enough room in the center to mount the EVX and my reciever. I DON'T have room to mount the RAM 35, the Ko Extra Channel unit (same size as the reciever), the E-Maxx tranny shifting servo, and then sqeeze in the Fail Safe Unit, and the servo reversing "Y" harness.

Now, I may have figure out the servo for the tranny, making a custom mount for it like ProjectTwin did, but I'm not sure if that will work on my truck. I may just end up locking the tranny in LOW until I figure something out.

The Fail Safe can go anywhere really, So I may jsut stick it to the bottom of the radio tray or something silly like that.

Has anyone ever mount a reciever ON TOP of a battery pack, Seperated by a peice of carbon fiber plate? I was thinking of doing this, but something in the back of my head kept telling me it was a bad idea.

Any thoughts? Comments?

[bluesy]

Andy... with regards to mounting the Rx above the battery pack.... shouldn't be a problem except for the heat generated by the battery. The battery is running DC through (from) it. The only glitching might come from the ESC and its attendant Hi-Freq noise. But I don't really see it as a problem. I did it on a Tamiya Mini Cooper cuz there wasn't much room inside it either. NO glitches there... hope this is of some minor assistance...... DB..
:cool: :cool:

[Hairball]

Originally posted by bluesy
Andy... with regards to mounting the Rx above the battery pack.... shouldn't be a problem except for the heat generated by the battery. The battery is running DC through (from) it. The only glitching might come from the ESC and its attendant Hi-Freq noise. But I don't really see it as a problem. I did it on a Tamiya Mini Cooper cuz there wasn't much room inside it either. NO glitches there... hope this is of some minor assistance...... DB..
:cool: :cool:

Interesting info Blue.. thanks. Heating up the Receiver is an issue though, my batterys get HOT after a run, thats one of the main reasons I'm redesigning the upper deck, so instead of having two packs side by side cooking each other, they're be spread out and hopefully won't get so dang hot. Sloting the peice will give the cells more free air as well.

I'm using a large peice of 2mm Carbon Fiber plate for this project by the way... :D Already bought the peice, and all I can say is this stuff is EXPENSIVE!!! :eek: Oh well, everything I seem to do in the R/C world is expensive it seems.

On that subject, People seem to to think that R/C Helicopters are expensive... try getting all the tools and equipment needed for a Heli!! OMG!! I think I've spent like $300 on tools and supplies just to work on the thing and get it off the ground. Gota love this hobby...

[junk4calata]

HB,

I have the ram 35 stuck on with servo tape on the side of the battery tray. My failesafe is also on the battery tray right next to the ram35. My Fuataba Servo Reverser is installed in front of the radio tray where the stock MSC Resistor is installed. My e-maxx shifting servo is installed where the stock MSC shifting servo is except that its mounted upside down with the arm pointing towards the ground. It shifts the tranny with no problem. My 7ch Receiver is installed where the stock battery pack is installed. My 5cell hump pack is installed where the factory MSC would be. The EXV has room to be mounted behind the receiver. If I can hold my truck upside down on a scanner, i'll post some pics to give you a better idea.

Right now I am working on something that I am sure no one else has. Easy battery recharge. 3 switches and 3 RCA audio connectors. The switches are DPDT with center off types. I will be wiring them up so that in one position the batteries ( 3 packs total ) complete the circuit to the ESC. In the other position, they complete the circuit to the RCA connectors. Then I just make a harness with a deans plug on one end and a rca connector on the other to connect my charger. That way, When I want to charge the packs, I just put the switch in the charge position and connect an RCA plug. THAT'S IT. Its a lot of work up front but it makes life easier in the long run since I don't have to remove the body, loose pins, bend posts, unplug connects, etc, etc.

You are right, I am crazier than you !!!:D :D :D

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata

Right now I am working on something that I am sure no one else has. Easy battery recharge. 3 switches and 3 RCA audio connectors. The switches are DPDT with center off types. I will be wiring them up so that in one position the batteries ( 3 packs total ) complete the circuit to the ESC. In the other position, they complete the circuit to the RCA connectors. Then I just make a harness with a deans plug on one end and a rca connector on the other to connect my charger. That way, When I want to charge the packs, I just put the switch in the charge position and connect an RCA plug. THAT'S IT. Its a lot of work up front but it makes life easier in the long run since I don't have to remove the body, loose pins, bend posts, unplug connects, etc, etc.

You are right, I am crazier than you !!!:D :D :D

I've seen NiCD packs explode while charging before, and I rather have them no where near my toys while they are charging. :)

Seems like a cool mod, but then again, you only get one run before you have to recharge. My setup lets me run for about 10 - 15 mins, pop the top, let it cool for 5 mins or so, then drop in two fresh packs and head out again. Much more fun then waiting around for a battery to charge. I'm actually thinking about New Era's gas converion for the TXT-1 purley for the added run time. I probably won't do it, but 30 minute runs sounds pretty good to me! :D

So whats everybody else up to? Any other cools mods in the project phase? Or is everybody just keeping there stuff Top Seceret? :p

[junk4calata]

Lousy but worth a try.

[junk4calata]

other side

[junk4calata]

I give up, How you copy and bold other people's text. Please let me know.

[junk4calata]

BTW, I can still remove the body and swap packs. Deans Plugs are easy, but I think it makes my life easier when I am done playing with it. Also, I have 3000mAh Nimh cells. Don't have to drain them and then recharge - just recharge.


As of right now, I am running a LRP F1 Pro Reverse. The tranny has 8T Pinions, and 72T spurs. Also, It has a slippage disk eliminator installed. With the tranny in first gear I haven't found anything the truck can't climb except 90 degree verticle obstacles - even from a dead stop with no roll on. Imagine on 14.4v. I am running the stock motors because they have more torque than the Speedgems 17x1. A Little slower, but more torque.

[Hairball]

Here Nick, lemme help you out... :)

[Hairball]

This one is a little whacked out, but you can still make the details out.

[junk4calata]

Thanks,
Don't have a digital camra yet and my regular camra is on loan. Thanks.

BTW, how do you copy and bold other people's text. Please let me know.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
Thanks,
Don't have a digital camra yet and my regular camra is on loan. Thanks.

BTW, how do you copy and bold other people's text. Please let me know.

Well, you can hit the quote button instead of the reply button, and that will automatically do it.

to Bold things out add a "[ B ]" at the beginning of the words you want bolded out and a "[ /B ]" at the end. just get rid of the spaces and qoutation marks.

For copying others text, highlight what you want with the mouse, right click, select "COPY", then right click where you want the new text, and select "PAST

HAVE FUN!

[Hairball]

Better yet, check this out -

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/misc.php?s=&action=bbcode

-=Andy=-

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball
Better yet, check this out -

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/misc.php?s=&action=bbcode

-=Andy=-

Thanks.

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by Hairball



So whats everybody else up to? Any other cools mods in the project phase? Or is everybody just keeping there stuff Top Seceret? :p

I'm beefing up the steering.

Nothing major. ;)

Jason

[Hairball]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin


I'm beefing up the steering.

Nothing major. ;)

Jason

How so? New servo mounts? Better servo saver?

Elaborate a little please..... :cool:

[Soya]

WOW!! This is the longest thread ever!! Good job Tamiya!!

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Soya
WOW!! This is the longest thread ever!! Good job Tamiya!!

Wait till the Terra crusher sells like hotcakes. My hobby shop already sold 17 and ordered another 20. Now, If tamiya could just get off their asses and sell individual parts and not trees......

[Soya]

Hear hear!! I own a Tamiya Blazing Star and I HATE having to buy the entire gear set just for the spur gear. Guess it's cheaper for them that way.

[ProjectTwin]

Now, If tamiya could just get off their asses and sell individual parts and not trees......

I've been saying that for a loooong time..:(

Jason

[junk4calata]

For all others that are interested in 3way On-Demand RWS, Here is the diagram. I delayed posting because I wanted to get HB's permission first since I used his for simplisity's sake.

Keep in mind that I said CH "X" because for me it will be run on a stick radio. With the radio stick in the center position I have 2WS. With it in the up position, I have 4WS. With it in the down position, I have Crabwalk Steering. Pretty cool I think, just have to get used to it.

Real Monster Trucks Have 3way RWS. Now my TXT-1 is more of a monster truck ????
:confused: :confused:

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by Hairball


How so? New servo mounts? Better servo saver?

Elaborate a little please..... :cool:

Servo mount. As you know, the New Era underguard mounts help beef the steering, since they are the left and right extremes of the servo mount. All that's left is the actual underguard and the two plastic servo mounts. I've eliminated the servo mounts. I ended up to the point that my servo and servosaver actually held up, but the torque would actually move the servo in the mounts...even twist out of the mounts at times. I haven't even upgraded to the New Era parts yet, either.

So...after a bit of Dremel work and a bit of aluminum, I've made a good, stout, reliable servo mount. I still need to slot it to accept mounting screws (baby is asleep and I'm in a hotel room) :p, so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to fire up the Drem-mill.

Or...I can wait until she wakes up...;)

Jason

[Hairball]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin

So...after a bit of Dremel work and a bit of aluminum, I've made a good, stout, reliable servo mount. I still need to slot it to accept mounting screws (baby is asleep and I'm in a hotel room) :p, so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to fire up the Drem-mill.

Or...I can wait until she wakes up...;)

Jason

Wait a minute, you're in a hotel, with you toys, and your Dremel tool? ***! :D

Sounds pretty cool. I've been half thinking about redoing the servo mounts myself, just busy with other mods at the moment.

[Hairball]

Junk4Calata -

After reviewing your schematic about 5 or 6 times, I finally figured out what the heck you were trying to accomplish. I see a major problem though.

lets say RAM 35 #1 is channel 3 and RAM 35 #2 is channel 4 on your radio equipment.

What happens when you have both 3 and 4 in the "ON" position? I think you have some whacked out servos to say the least! :D

It needs a logic check in there somewhere (If Channel 3 is "ON" channel 4 MUST be "OFF", or something like that). I'm not sure how to accomplish this rigth now, but if I figure it out, I'll be sure to post it up so you can take a look. :)

One more thing. I know most of you have seen my radio tray with all the on demand 4WS stuff on it, and its pretty cluttered and stuffed as it is.

Junk - Where in the world do you plan on installing all this gear? The truck only has so much room on it....

-Andy

[ProjectTwin]

Wait a minute, you're in a hotel, with you toys, and your Dremel tool? ***!
Yeah...I shipped some stuff from Korea to Florida. My wife and I went to a gathering in Texas, so I shipped the R/C's to the states early. While in Texas, I won an Adrenaline .21 conversion kit fo the t-maxx. Since I had a .40PS laying around, I decided to work on it. I've pretty much built it in the past 3 or 4 days, right here in the hotel.

Here (http://pub13.ezboard.com/fmaxximumtraxxasfrm32.showMessage?topicID=966.topi c) is a link.

Jason

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball
Junk4Calata -

After reviewing your schematic about 5 or 6 times, I finally figured out what the heck you were trying to accomplish. I see a major problem though.

lets say RAM 35 #1 is channel 3 and RAM 35 #2 is channel 4 on your radio equipment.

What happens when you have both 3 and 4 in the "ON" position? I think you have some whacked out servos to say the least! :D

It needs a logic check in there somewhere (If Channel 3 is "ON" channel 4 MUST be "OFF", or something like that). I'm not sure how to accomplish this rigth now, but if I figure it out, I'll be sure to post it up so you can take a look. :)

One more thing. I know most of you have seen my radio tray with all the on demand 4WS stuff on it, and its pretty cluttered and stuffed as it is.

Junk - Where in the world do you plan on installing all this gear? The truck only has so much room on it....

-Andy


Andy,

My channel X is channel 3 only on an aircraft radio. If remember that you stated yourself that the Ram 35 needs to be adjusted to work corectly. Well, I am adjusting it so that when the right stick in centered vertically, and I steer left/right, I only have 2WS. When the stick is moved UP vertically, left/right steering is now 4WS ( Adjusted the RAM 35 to activate only at the TOP position. Once I get the other RAM 35, It will be adjusted so that it is on in the BOTTOM stick position. Understand :confused: . It might be easier to see if you hold the heli radio. Since only 1 Ram 35 switch can let the signal flow at any given time, it does not require a logic circuit and could be safely used on other 3 channel remotes that have a 2 way switch, NOT A SIMPLE ON/OFF like the traxxas e-maxx radio for shifting the tranny.

As far as the radio gear is concerned, It all fits easily. Both Ram 35s and the failsafe will be mounted on the sides of the battery tray. Starting from the front of the radio tray going backwards, Things are mounted as follows.
- Futaba Servo Reverser ( where the stock resistor is )
- Tranny Shifting Servo ( where the stock MSC servo is )
- Trinity 5 cell Hump Pack ( where the stock MSC is )
- Futaba 7ch receiver ( where the stock hump batteries go )
- EVX speed controller once I get it back from Traxxas - got it dead brand new.... What ever happened to QUALITY CONTROL ??? ( where the stock receiver goes )

Then its the battery tray. Simple and everything fits with no problem.

Projectwin, Took a couple of suggestions from you and wanted to report on them. The truck is unstoppable over any obstacle around the house up to 90 degree verticles. I am currently running the sotck motors with an LRP F1 Pro Reverse

I have:
- Kimbrough 72T Spur
- Bolink 8T pinions
- Traxxas 4593 Slippage disk eliminator.

Nick

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata



Andy,

My channel X is channel 3 only on an aircraft radio. If remember that you stated yourself that the Ram 35 needs to be adjusted to work corectly. Well, I am adjusting it so that when the right stick in centered vertically, and I steer left/right, I only have 2WS. When the stick is moved UP vertically, left/right steering is now 4WS ( Adjusted the RAM 35 to activate only at the TOP position. Once I get the other RAM 35, It will be adjusted so that it is on in the BOTTOM stick position. Understand :confused: . It might be easier to see if you hold the heli radio. Since only 1 Ram 35 switch can let the signal flow at any given time, it does not require a logic circuit and could be safely used on other 3 channel remotes that have a 2 way switch, NOT A SIMPLE ON/OFF like the traxxas e-maxx radio for shifting the tranny.

Nick

So, you're putting the two RAM 35 units in a "Y" Harness, plugged into channel 3 then? Hmm, weird, but interesting. :)

At least it makes sense now. Hehe This whole project would be a lot easier if we both just broke down and bought some 6+ channel Heli radios with programming features and channel mixing. But that would make sense, right? :)

-Andy

[junk4calata]

I like trying things that no one else has yet. Gets me thinking and keeps me busy. It's how I came up with the on-demand in the first place.

Beside, I already have 2 radios and I believe you have almost $1k in radio gear alone now (with your new radio ). Don't want a third one unless I sell one of the ones I already have. I even modified my 6ch radio so that the tranny shifting channel uses a momentary switch instead of a on/off toggle switch, and made the throttle stick act like the steering stick where it returns to neutral.

Nick

[junk4calata]

Anyone know where I can purchase Metal Servo Mounts that I would be able to use for the TXT-1? Or do I have to make my own?

I figured that If I buy the NewEra kids, I could possibly secure the servos onto the aluminum skid. If that don't work, I could just remove the stock plastic skid and make my own plate that that mounts between the axle guards. It will not be bent, just a flat sheet of 1/4" aluminum. I could pick up the holes from the plastic piece. The New Era skids could do their job for protecting the undersides and the new plate would hold the servo in place.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
I like trying things that no one else has yet. Gets me thinking and keeps me busy. It's how I came up with the on-demand in the first place.

Beside, I already have 2 radios and I believe you have almost $1k in radio gear alone now (with your new radio ).

Nick

I completely understand Nick. Anything to keep the mind going. :D

And $1,000 in radio gear? I wish it was only that much... hehe

Ko Propo EX-1 Mars - $240 new (plus a $50 repair fee, I broke it)
Ko Propo EX-11 Presto - $110 used (plus $50 in repair fees, it was broke when I got it)
JR Propo R-1 - $350 used
JR Propo 8103 PCM Heli Radio - $650
Extra recievers - $250+
Extra / Special Servos - $300+
Gizmos - around $100
Radio Crystals - $100
Radio case for the three pistols - $100
Batterys for the radios - $50

Shall I go on? :) I'm sure I've missed something in there....

Looks like about $2,150 give or take.

If you count ESCs as radio equipment, add another $350 to that..

I have a hard time letting go of anything I happen to like, and I like all my toys.

-Andy

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
Anyone know where I can purchase Metal Servo Mounts that I would be able to use for the TXT-1? Or do I have to make my own?


Make your own. You'll be happier with them if you do.

Mayeb Jason can post some pics of his custom mounts so we can get an idea of how to attack the project.

-Andy

[ProjectTwin]

Maybe Jason can post some pics of his custom mounts so we can get an idea of how to attack the project.

Ya know, I'd love to, but....

Frustration defined:

Went to the local car wash...the pressure wash job with the pay vacs to clean the inside of your car. Well, it seems I somehow ended up in Cranal-**** loopback and lost my right front TXT wheel/tire at the car wash. I've searched the hotel room three times and can't find it.

Aggravated me to the point I didn't feel like messing with it last night, and I went to help work on the track today. I may still finish the mount tonight, but I won't be able to run it until the wheels and tires arrive.

Me and my luck...:rolleyes:

Jason

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball


Make your own. You'll be happier with them if you do.

Mayeb Jason can post some pics of his custom mounts so we can get an idea of how to attack the project.

-Andy

I Came up with this idea. I figured I could use some 1/8" Aluminum stock. I could place the servo on it and then pick up the holes. Also, As far as mounting it onto the skid plate, I could first pick up the holes from the factory plate onto the bracket and then transfer them back to the New Era Skids. I don't have to make elongated holes, Just pick up the 2 holes where the indentation from the lock washers are.

What do you guys think?

[junk4calata]

I think I found something that could help solve our drive axle problems, either the stock axles or the Traxxas axles. Its found on the Tamiya Terra Crusher. I do need help locating a part number thou.

It seems and confirmed at my local hobby shop that it has a metal center shaft. I also believe that the plastic is actually Derlin.

[junk4calata]

I got the Part Shaft Breakdown. Now just need to figure out which and how many parts bags.

[ProjectTwin]

Here's the mounting bracket I'm making. I haven't finished it due to the fact that I'm missing one tire...Arrrgh!

The mount is just some 3mm aluminum from Home Depot. I cut the hole for the servo with a Dremel, now I just need to drill holes for the mounting tabs and cut the slots in the front for mounting the thing to the underguard.

I'm slotting the bracket so I use four screws to attach the mount to the underguard instead of the regular two.

If this doesn't beef the steering, I don't know what will. One thing is for sure though, the servo won't twist out of the mounts again! :)


Jason

[ProjectTwin]

another shot:

Jason

[ProjectTwin]

and...

Jason

[junk4calata]

That was pretty much my idea also, except that I would of put the servo the other way.

When you upgrade one thing, you have to upgrade the other, etc... So, do they make aluminum servo cases?

[ProjectTwin]

J4,

I think once I get the New Era underguard mounts it should be stout enough. The servo gears will go before the case I think.

Who knows..hopefully it'll work out ok.

Jason

[Hairball]

It'll work.. or you'll get a hammer and make it work! :D

Wow, ya'll notice that this thread hit 800 posts? And thats AFTER RCCA nuked all Jeep's posts.. Groovy!

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball
It'll work.. or you'll get a hammer and make it work! :D

Wow, ya'll notice that this thread hit 800 posts? And thats AFTER RCCA nuked all Jeep's posts.. Groovy!


What ever happened to Jeep? You still keep in touch as I see you both share pages.

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by Hairball
It'll work.. or you'll get a hammer and make it work! :D

Wow, ya'll notice that this thread hit 800 posts? And thats AFTER RCCA nuked all Jeep's posts.. Groovy!

I'm lost...what happened there?

Jason

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball
It'll work.. or you'll get a hammer and make it work! :D

Wow, ya'll notice that this thread hit 800 posts? And thats AFTER RCCA nuked all Jeep's posts.. Groovy!

That's not including the 3100+ posts on RCMT.net

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
What ever happened to Jeep? You still keep in touch as I see you both share pages.

I'm not going to get into that here. This is not an appropriate place for that conversation. :) email me if you want the *down and dirty*

[Hairball]

...

[e_schickdu]

you know what irks me about tamiya?

anyways, some how, i have absolutely now clue how, but i basically ruined one of the body-hold-together-shafts, that goes inbewttween the two ladder chassis parts, so i go np, ill just order ONE. Low und Behold i cant, lol i would have to pay $61 for the whole part bag!!!

any ideas?

[Hairball]

Welcome to Tamiya products! What part do you need exactly? Give me the part number form the instruction manual, maybe I have an extra I could sell to you at a far cheaper price than buying the whole parts bag.

I've been in the same situation. I used to live about 25 minutes away from Tamiya USA HQs, and I would just drive there to get parts. Well, I found that I had to buy the whole tree. I ended up spending like $85 for a part that would have cost me $10 had Tamiya not sold me the whole tree.

Now I have TWO extra complete axle casings, a TON of extra ball studs, and a bunch of extra parts I really didn't need.

I'm actually thinking about building a THIRD TXT-1 just out of spare parts I have laying around. I found an extra frame on eBay cheap, so I said *why not*? :)

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by Hairball


Wait a minute, you're in a hotel, with you toys, and your Dremel tool? ***! :D



http://www.projecttwin.com/DSC00397.JPG

;)

Somewhere in there there's a benchtop vise, hacksaw, air compressor, 3 dremels, and a few e trannies. Then there's the trucks. Not pictured are the Jugg 2, Supermaxx (under construction), Dominator, and the scale crawler.

The compressor isn't too bad at 2 am...doesn't seem to wake anyone...it's pretty quiet. :D

Jason

[Hairball]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin

Somewhere in there there's a benchtop vise, hacksaw, air compressor, 3 dremels, and a few e trannies. Then there's the trucks. Not pictured are the Jugg 2, Supermaxx (under construction), Dominator, and the scale crawler.

The compressor isn't too bad at 2 am...doesn't seem to wake anyone...it's pretty quiet. :D

Jason

3 Dremels? I though I was bad with two! And "A few e trannies" *** MAN! :)

I'm jealous. All that R/C equipment in such a small place. hehehe

Looks like my barracks room. DOH! Oh ya, nice tool box... I've got one just like it (blue, but the same thing). :D

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by Hairball
I have been seriously thinking about getting one too, but its very hard to justify the cost of one of these toys.

TXT-1 - ~$360 (WITHOUT Bearings)
High Torque Servo - $50 - $100
New Motors - $100

Ok, thats $500 WITHOUT any radio gear, batterys, or a charger.

I've already got my radio gear, so its not an issue, but how many people are going to go out and spend most likely around $800 to start out from scratch with one of these?

I know I wouldn't. Not when you can get a RTR EMaxx for ~$400.

Hmmm.... I think Tamiya needs to re-think the pricing of this baby.

Man...things sure do change around here, eh? :p

Jason

[Hairball]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin


Man...things sure do change around here, eh? :p

Jason

LMAO! How old was that post Jason? Man, things do change, I've got two of these babies now, and thinking about building a third one (gas converted is the thought of the day).

And I'm building an E-Maxx just for kicks! I think I've got like $2300+ in my TXT-1 Projects now. (I've got a detailed list back home, but not here at work).

Thanks for the "blast from the past" :)

[NitroRookie]

Hairball or ProjectTwin,

When I get around to get a TXT-1 for myself. I'm thinking of leaving it with 2 wheel steering. But what I really want to know is.

What kind of performance will I get out of a TXT-1 if I use the TXT-1's stock Tranny with two Titans and an EVX ESC and a couple 1500 packs ?

For example,

What kind of Run times can I expect ?
What would the Top Speed be ?
How much Torque would it have?
ETC,ETC,ETC

Thanx for any info you guys can send my way.

[Hairball]

Stock tranny with an EVX and titans? Hmm..

Should be an animal. Expect a blown gearbox after time though.

About 10 min run times would be about right, depending on how hard you are on it. 1500 packs arent going to last long. If you're going to use sport packs, might as well get the "Maxx Packs". they are 2400s I think, good batterys.

Bearings are a must throughout the truck. Have you checked out www.txt1.net yet?

Anything else I can do, just ask..

[ProjectTwin]

Personally, I'd stay away from the Titan/EVX setup...why run two batts at one time? The EVX/Titans are also more of a speed type of set-up...stick to 7.2....much better suited to a solid axle. (IMO)

Some news for TXT owners...

This morning at 5am I was on my way back from Unlimited. We installed the new Ti turnbuckles and cantilever pushrod links on my TXT, a Clod, and a Jugg. These use 1/8 scale ball ends and 7mm balls. Very beefy.

The 'buckles even have the hex machined in...where it's easy to reach with a wrench.

These are first-runs...they may change. For now they seem to be just the ticket to beefing the steering.

I really didn't think I needed Ti pushrods, until I started dis-assembly. Three out of four of the pushrods on my TXT were bent, and all I do with the thing is rockcrawl!

Jason

[NitroRookie]

So ProjectTwin,

Would a Dual IPC F1 Pro w/ Reverse and two Magnetic Mayhems be a better setup or should I just stick with a Single IPC F1 Pro w/reverse and the stock motors.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin
Personally, I'd stay away from the Titan/EVX setup...why run two batts at one time? The EVX/Titans are also more of a speed type of set-up...stick to 7.2....much better suited to a solid axle. (IMO)

Don't you run two packs Jason? How do you have your rig set up?

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by NitroRookie
So ProjectTwin,

Would a Dual IPC F1 Pro w/ Reverse and two Magnetic Mayhems be a better setup or should I just stick with a Single IPC F1 Pro w/reverse and the stock motors.

The F1 Pro reverse and a couple of Mag Mayhems would be cool (and a bit faster than stockers). If you want good, long life and don't care much for speed, go with the stockers and put some small pinions on them. I love stock motors! :p

Originally posted by Hairball
Don't you run two packs Jason? How do you have your rig set up?

I'm running a single 5 or 6 cell pack, depending on the packs I use. I have 2 5-cell Ballistic packs that I use to run on my Brushless (2 5-cell packs), but I run a single 6 cell most of the time.

My truck currently has a Super Rooster, stock motors (on E tranny...8/72 pinion/spur), Airtronics 3channel RX.

With one pack I can crawl for a good, long time with this set-up. Throw in an EVX and Titans and you lose the low-speed control you'd have with stockers and 7.2V. Instead of crawling over rocks, the EVX set-up would have you hopping them.

I just prefer to keep the truck light and run as few packs as possible. The more packs you use per run, the more packs you'll need to buy...

My whole anti-speed thing with the TXT stems from the torque-induced roll. Throw some strong motors in it and it'll roll right over on the right rear tire. A Clod is better suited to speed, since there's no left to right torque being thrown in. On Clods the torque is front to rear...Watch a mod Clod run. The thing launches and hurls itself forward. A TXT or Jugg would lift that left front...all due to driveshafts...

Jason

[murf]

Yeah, I'm with Twin on the idea that this truck is not made for speed...sure ya can make it go like hell and heavy it up, but then you take away from what its made to do...CRAWL and CLIMB over just about anything in its path. The suspension articulation is so cool to watch...I put the Super Rooster and Sapphires in there and now it doesn't have the low end that I wanted, I will go down to 10 or 12 on the pinion gear, single batt and just have fun with it...Hey any of you guys into off-roading, I was out in PA last weekend riding my quad and there was a HumVee bash going on, there was 53 of them doing all kinds of crazy stuff, rock crawlin' and mud boggin' and some insane low gear hill climbs...it was a trip...
Murf

[Hairball]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin
My truck currently has a Super Rooster, stock motors (on E tranny...8/72 pinion/spur), Airtronics 3channel RX.
With one pack I can crawl for a good, long time with this set-up. Throw in an EVX and Titans and you lose the low-speed control you'd have with stockers and 7.2V. Instead of crawling over rocks, the EVX set-up would have you hopping them.


Dang you Jason! :D Now you've got my mind wandering in new directions! Thinking about installing a Super Chicken now, and going with a milder motor setup, and leaving the speed runs for my almost built E-Maxx. :)

But why does the E-Maxx not suffer the same torque twist problems than the TXT-1 does? Weird....

Oh, and do you even bother with HIGH gear on the Maxx tranny, or do you just leave it in low the entire time??

-Andy

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by Hairball


But why does the E-Maxx not suffer the same torque twist problems than the TXT-1 does? Weird....

Oh, and do you even bother with HIGH gear on the Maxx tranny, or do you just leave it in low the entire time??

-Andy


The E-Maxx isn't a 4-link vehicle like the TXT. The E's independent suspension is much more suited to high-speed antics.

I think the E vs. TXT comparison in the recent Monster Trucks special issue is a bit unfair for this reason. Both vehicles run an EVX and Titans, but due to the TXT's suspension design, it simply can't compete with the E in some areas. (Especially when strapped with two packs sitting in the rear of the truck and that much power being applied. Your center of balance shifts to the rear quite a bit with two packs stuck out back...)

I do use high gear from time to time, mostly to quickly go from one crawling area to the next. Even though it's geared low, I'm still moving faster than stock speed, except now I have a slipper, and gear changes are really simple with the E tranny. ;)

Jason

[ProjectTwin]

Here's pics of the Ti stuff from Unlimited Engineering (http://www.unlimitedengineering.com).

Rear steering lock on TXT...
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/DSC00401.JPG

TXT cantilever links...
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/DSC00402.JPG

They also work on Juggs...
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/DSC00403.JPG

Which would you rather use?
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/DSC00406.JPG

I should add that the Steering Kit also works on the Clod, but without the stock center steering links.

This kit was designed for the TXT, but fits the Jugg perfectly. Use of this kit on the Clod or Jugg requires you to go to an axle mounted steering system. The included parts are enough to go with either 4WS on TXT, or rear lock and 2WS. Two lengths of rear steering/lock links are included.

I'm going to install a kit on my stock clod to test it on there. We did manage to install a kit on a mod clod with very little fuss.

Jason

[junk4calata]

So when is the expected release dates for those turn buckles? Also, are those Kyosho 6.8mm ends? I want to place my order for 2 sets of ends from tower, but if the new turnbukles will have different ends, then I'll just hold off on the Kyosho Ends conversion.

BTW, you don't think the knuckles were enough of a weak link? Wait till those turnbuckles are run around for a little while.

Thanks,
Nick

[ProjectTwin]

The turnbuckles are in stock now.

Here's what's included in the steering link kit: (not pictured are the included black oxide screws and washers)
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/slideshow/TXT/Hi-TXT-TiTurnbuckles.jpg

Here's the Ti Cantilever links.
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/slideshow/TXT/Hi-TXT-CantileverDownlinks.jpg

The ends are 7mm ends for steering, and you re-use the stock 6mm ends (or aftermarket replacements, 6mm ball ends are not included) for the canti links.

As far as the knuckles being weak...I've only cracked one in the past 3 years. That was when it was about 19 degrees outside and I was jumping and landing on asphalt with a JPS Clod.



Jason

[junk4calata]

Funny,

I broke 3 knuckles within a month. Now that the TXt has been sitting for upgrading purposes, I have had better luck.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
Funny,

I broke 3 knuckles within a month. Now that the TXt has been sitting for upgrading purposes, I have had better luck.

I've broekn two knuckles since I've had my TXT-1. 6 months now if I can count... :)

I've also bent & broke two of the catalever rods from thrashing around. Never had any problems with the steering links though.

Whats all this cool stuff going to cost anyway?

[ProjectTwin]

I'm writing instructions for the kits now. The cantilever kit is done, I'm just doing steering link instructions for the TXT/Jugg and Clod.

Prices for the steering link kit will be around 50-60 bucks. Pricing hasn't been finalized, still need to hear from the machinist.

The cantilever links should in the 40 dollar range.

Jason

[Hairball]

So about $100 for a complete kit (+ shipping). Not too bad.

Another thing that SHOULD have come STOCK with the kit. :D

Oh well, another Tamiya shortcomming. I wonder if anybody from the Tamiya R&D team actually reads this forum. Would be nice to know if they were at least paying attention to the people who buy the trucks....

-Andy

[ProjectTwin]

HB, there's also a discount for military folks.

Shipping is usually included also.

Jason

[Hairball]

Discount for military people? No way.... :D

I'm all over that.

[ProjectTwin]

contact Robin (monstermaxx@att.net ) and tell him JasoninAugusta told you to get with him on an order for links. Let him know you're in the military. You APO should be enough proof, but you might want to send a xerox/scan of your ID with the social covered.

Jason

[NitroRookie]

When I decide to buy a TXT-1.

How long will the stock bushings last if I keep everything stock in the truck and just use it for Rock Crawling?

P.S. Because I want to keep the cost of the truck as low as I can keep it.

[ProjectTwin]

Nitro Rookie,

I'm still using bushings. I just haven't decided to tear it apart and put bearings in.

Bushings will serve you well for crawling (I have no complaints), but bearings will naturally be more efficient.

If you don't want to tear the axles apart a second time, go ahead a get bearings right off the bat.

Be sure to get a TXT bearing kit, not the Juggy kit. Besides the obvious difference with the inclusion of cantilever bearings, there's the oddball 6x11mm size that Tamiya decided to throw into the mix.

Jason

[NitroRookie]

Where can I find a place that sell TXT bearing kits?

P.S. Hopefully there is a Hobby shop in Canada that sells them.

[bluesy]

NitroRookie..... I got mine (bearings) through BC Shaver And Hobbies in Victoria.... They ordered a set of Boca bearings for me. Total cost for complete set $100.00CDN. I had built mine with bushings cuz I couldn't wait then ran it a few times and put the bearings in...... big difference in run time. Even just rock crawling like I do it extended the run time by about 5 to 10 minutes. :cool: :cool:

[Hairball]

Originally posted by bluesy
NitroRookie..... I got mine (bearings) through BC Shaver And Hobbies in Victoria.... They ordered a set of Boca bearings for me. Total cost for complete set $100.00CDN. I had built mine with bushings cuz I couldn't wait then ran it a few times and put the bearings in...... big difference in run time. Even just rock crawling like I do it extended the run time by about 5 to 10 minutes. :cool: :cool:

5 to 10 minutes MORE run time from bearings? Seems a bit far fetched, but possible. :D

Bearings are a BIG PLUS, and soooo much easier to install the first time around. I ran mine with the bushing first, then ended up tearing the ENTIRE truck apart to install bearings later. Long process....

[ProjectTwin]

5 to 10 from bearings?

Yipes!

Jason

[e_schickdu]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin
5 to 10 from bearings?

Yipes!

Jason

jeez wow, i need to get some then, i guess it makes sence b/c its 34:1 drive train to begin with and there are like 36 (i think) drivetrain bushings ( 9 of which are already bearings) so thats alot of resistance that would be cut if there were bearings installed. When i order teh bearings should i replace the stock 9 bearings that came w/ the kit? or just order the 27 extra that i need? I never thought about it but i bet that they do add alot of time.

[e_schickdu]

oh ya, i had a question, i was wondering what people though about possibly fitting CVDS inted of those huge clunky and heavy universals? I was reading in some article somewhere about some1 that did that, but they didnt say which CVDs they used. Does anyone know if this would increase performance?

[jegster]

I just bought me a TXT-1 a few weeks ago and ordered a full bearing set(35) from Acer Racing Bearings out of Santa Monica, CA for $45.99 plus shipping and taxes.

They didn't have a set made up so I e-mailed them about the bearing sizes and they made me a set up and had it shipped out the next day.

http://www.acerracing.com/products/index.html

The guy I talked too was Eric and I'm not real sure if they have made up a set yet from the sizes I told them so you may have to let them know the size and quantity of each again.

[speedydave]

Kevin Hetmanski put CVD's on his Project TXT1 in one of the recent RCCA's. He had to mess with the wheelbase of the truck to get them to fit, though...

[Hairball]

Just use T/E-Maxx half shafts. Just a little shortening action, and they work out fine.

Junk4Calata mention that its possible to use Tamiya Terra Crusher ones as well, but I haven't tried that yet.

-Andy

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball
So about $100 for a complete kit (+ shipping). Not too bad.

Another thing that SHOULD have come STOCK with the kit. :D

Oh well, another Tamiya shortcomming. I wonder if anybody from the Tamiya R&D team actually reads this forum. Would be nice to know if they were at least paying attention to the people who buy the trucks....

-Andy

Take a look at this thing with 8inch tires and a standard lawn mower gas engine.

[junk4calata]

and

[junk4calata]

but, its $1500 USD!!!:eek: :eek::eek:

[junk4calata]

Hey,

I need a little help please. I am looking for a good quality picture in JPG format of the E-Maxx logo. I have something in mind that I need it for.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

[hdcchrome]

Just found this thread!!!! Truck looks kick butt.

Anyone have one for sale with the four wheel steering installed?

[MaxxQbn]

Anyone have any ideas on the best way to wire the stock motors to a Novak Super Rooster, parallel or serial?

Also, is it neccessary to install the capacitors that came with the Super Rooster to the stock motors?

Oh, yeah, I finnaly received my TXT from Hong Kong. I was getting a bit worried there for a while. Can't wait to get it finished and running along side my Emaxx

[bluesy]

Congrats on getting your TXT-1...... I know you'll be excited to get going on building it..... BUT DON'T.... unless you have a complete set of bearings to put in while you are building.

Wire up your stock motors to the ESC in parallel. The output from the ESC is the same as what batteries you attach to the other side. eg..... 7.2 volts. If you were using an EVX (from an E-Maxx then you would have to wire stock motors up in series.)

I have a super rooster in mine and it is incredible......

Just remember, go slow and follow the manual and the BEAST will be done in no time..... have fun.... :cool: :cool:

[ProjectTwin]

how do you guys like the suspension?

Any gripes?

I do slow-speed crawling, but for the faster guys, are you having much luck?

Jason

[JeffHo830]

Hey guys, I got the TXT builded and am testing the beast. But I got some problem. When I hit the throlette, the truck is getting brust of power. The acceleration is not smooth at all. How can I fix it this problem. Also I got the on-demand-4WS setup. Wired it as Hairball have it in his instruction. I'm able to get the RAM35 to switch on and off. But the fail-safe unit doens't kick in. What do I need to check? I'm running the LRP F1 Pro Reverse with the Ko Prop Ex-11 w/ extra channel unit. Stock 540 motors and stock tranny. Hitec 925 servos. Oh another problem is when I slowly accelerate, and then trying to turn the wheel. The truck just stop even tho I had my finger on the throlette. Any idea(s)? Thanks.

Jeff

[speedydave]

Hey guys. My friend(RCIDIOT) is having a problem with his TXT1, and I don't know if he's going to post about it, so I might as well...

The problem he's having is, he is only running the front servo right now, so the rear steering linkage is tied in to the plastic skid...Well, he keeps stripping the plastic skid's holes! Yes, hitting stuff less would help that stay in there, but is there anything else I can suggest to him to help that stay in place? I recommended to get a longer screw and put a nut at the end of it, but then I realized that the hole doesn't go all the way through...

Another thing, his truck is stock, and didn't impress me much. He glued the tires, but otherwise, everything is set up 100% stock, as Tamiya suggests. I take it modified trucks will drive much differently than his truck did, but will I see more performance if I were to get bearings and an ESC? Right now, I'm turned off from the TXT1 because of this experience. I know the TXT1 isn't a speed demon, but I thought it'd be more exciting than it was...Right now, I'm considering the Tamiya Pajero XB over the TXT1, but that could change(these things are getting too expensive...).

[Hairball]

Super Glue the mounts in. Thats the only way to keep them from moving. I have no idea why Tamiya built the truck that way, buts its a MAJOR problem if you ask me

[speedydave]

I'm not too sure which part of the truck you mean, since I don't have one, but I mean the screw that goes into the skid, coming off of the shorter link, which goes to the wheel. There are too many cheesy quirks on this truck...

[speedydave]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin


http://www.projecttwin.com/DSC00397.JPG

;)

Somewhere in there there's a benchtop vise, hacksaw, air compressor, 3 dremels, and a few e trannies. Then there's the trucks. Not pictured are the Jugg 2, Supermaxx (under construction), Dominator, and the scale crawler.

The compressor isn't too bad at 2 am...doesn't seem to wake anyone...it's pretty quiet. :D

Jason


I got bored, so I thought I'd finally post something about Jason's *toys*... Jason, dood! :eek: You're SOOOOOOOOO *insert bad word here* lucky to have those sweet MT's! Lucky, lucky, lucky!!! Which is your favorite? I noticed an E-Pede in there...what hop ups does it have, and have you had any problems with the tranny? I take you're an MT fan :rolleyes: So am I! I loooooove trucks. I just don't have the $$ to buy everything you've got :( :p Have you ever driven a Tamiya Pajero XB? I'm taking a look at one of those, since it's cheaper than the TXT1...I'm finally trying to slow down on my RC purchases, but I just can't resist...See ya!

[MaxxQbn]

:) It's done, and all I can say is awesome. Even my girlfriend who thinks I am being foolish for spending so much money on this hobby thinks the TXT looks cool. She thinks it looks more agressive than my tricked out E-Maxx. Anyway, I can't wait to get it out and crawlin'. I finished it last night and of course, it's raining here in Jersey today. Oh well.

Does anyone recommend any mod motors for the TXT. I am using a Super Rooster and am think of getting a pair of Speed Gems or Atomic Forces. I am also using the stock tranny. Any thoughts?

[NitroRookie]

I read somewhere in this thread. That the Kyosho Magnetic Maytems are a good choice. Because they are 7.2v 550 size motors.

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by NitroRookie
I read somewhere in this thread. That the Kyosho Magnetic Maytems are a good choice. Because they are 7.2v 550 size motors.

If you want torque, the stock motors have more torque than the Speed Gems 17x1. The speed gems are faster, but have less torque.

[JeffHo830]

Hey guys, can someone please help me on the acceleration problem? It seems to accelerate in brust sometimes and turning sometimes stop the acceleration for a second. Also is the servo suppose to hold the position when the truck is on? Mine doesn't seem to do that. I can kinda move the steering by hands without using the transmitter. Lastly, how do I install the Kimbrough servo saver on the TXT? Please helps.

Jeff

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by speedydave



I got bored, so I thought I'd finally post something about Jason's *toys*... Jason, dood! :eek: You're SOOOOOOOOO *insert bad word here* lucky to have those sweet MT's! Lucky, lucky, lucky!!! Which is your favorite? I noticed an E-Pede in there...what hop ups does it have, and have you had any problems with the tranny? I take you're an MT fan :rolleyes: So am I! I loooooove trucks. I just don't have the $$ to buy everything you've got :( :p Have you ever driven a Tamiya Pajero XB? I'm taking a look at one of those, since it's cheaper than the TXT1...I'm finally trying to slow down on my RC purchases, but I just can't resist...See ya!

Thanks! Luckily, I have a cool wife! :p

My fav is whichever I happen to be driving at the time.

The E pede is running some RPM camber links and Masher 2ks. Body is a Pro-Line Ford.

I don't have a Pajero XB, but I do have a Tamiya Wrangler (in restoration process). It uses the same XC chassis as the XB Pajero. I also have another XC chassis, but it's basically a parts truck.

I'm more into monster trucks myself. You can drive them basically anywhere.

Here's one I'm building now.

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/sm/DSC00016.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/sm/DSC00018.JPG

I will update my website with pictures if I ever get the time.

Jason

[speedydave]

Nice! I race, so I can't have all MT's(well, I could...), but I love just about anything with wheels and an engine/motor...but if I had th choose one class, it'd be MT's, hands down. I don't know what it is about them, I just love 'em!

EDIT: How is the XC chassis? It seems like a nice, inexpensive alternative to the TXT1, but I love the look of the TXT1(and the scale appearance of the Pajero). Ahh, the choices! When you're my age(14, no job), it kinda sucks, actually!

[ProjectTwin]

I'm more of a builder/tinkerer/basher than a racer.

The XC is nice. It's faster than a TXT, and makes a great "scale" crawler...meaning you are forced into negotiating obstacles much more like a 1:1 vehicle than a TXT would.

With a TXT you can simply twist/crawl your way over most things. With the XC, things in your yard take on a whole new purpose. you'll be finding little things to tackle with the XC that you'd never even think of messing with while driving the TXT.

You can have just as much fun with a XC on smaller obstacles.

If you ever go to RCMT.net, there's a scale crawler/XC forum over there, lots of info on mods and such.

Jason

[speedydave]

Cool Jason, thanks. I think I'll be going with the TXT1, but it's so darn expensive! J/w, if you had to choose between one, which would you choose, and why? I love bashing, but there aren't really any good places to bash around here...and I'm not old enough to drive, soooo..I get screwed out of a lot of stuff...but at least I'm in this cool hobby at all :)

[ProjectTwin]

If I had to choose one?

TXT. More aluminum...more aftermarket support.

The XC is all plastic. Sure it has a radio, but you can throw an AM radio into a TXT and have fun.

Jason

[junk4calata]

I finally but the truck back together and finished off the 3 Way On Demand RWS. The truck rocks. But I do have a problem. I keep braking e-maxx sliders . Went thru 2 sets in one day!!! I broke the rear first, then replaced it. Next, the front one went. Then same scenario all over again. I have the tranny pushed forward so I need custom lenth metal shafts. I looked into the MIP CVDs for the t-maxx and no help - size wise. Anyone know where I can get a set of custom sized MIP CVDs? Or how about the e-maxx sliders in metal:confused: :confused: :confused:

I could try the terra crusher axles, but am trying to get full metal shafts first. Besides, to do the terra chrusher axles swap, I have to buy 3 different BAGS and other trees.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[junk4calata]

Projectwin,

I noticed you have a mostly naked txt-1 chassis in the backround. Anything new or in works up your sleeve?

[ProjectTwin]

J4...what motors are you running? I popped a front and rear set of shafts within 5 minutes of each other, but I was crawling on rocks larger than the truck. When I popped the axles, they gave at the U-joints, which would simply snap back together.

Why is your tranny pushed forward? It should mount dead center with no problems.


The TXT frame in the background is apart for some parts design. I think it's time to make it a bit different from every other TXT on the planet. ;) After tearing it apart, I did notice that I was actually twisting the axles. The yokes have a bit of a twist to them, and the shafts are getting that candy cane effect. The only area that's twisting is where the outer part of the driveshaft doesn't overlap.


Jason

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin
J4...what motors are you running? I popped a front and rear set of shafts within 5 minutes of each other, but I was crawling on rocks larger than the truck. When I popped the axles, they gave at the U-joints, which would simply snap back together.

Why is your tranny pushed forward? It should mount dead center with no problems.



Projectwin, I am currently using the stock motors with the LRP F1 Pro Reverse. If I broke those axles already, what will happen when I install an EVX onto those motors? That's why I want to have better axles. The axles broke at the U joints, and it made the "U" into an "L". Also, I noticed that the rear shaft was also twisted a little. BTW, all I was doing was full power blasts from a stand still on carpet in 2nd gear.

I spoke to Andy, and he suggested the slipper clutch. It makes since but I have the slipper eliminator in my truck and others are always complaining about the slipper.

The tranny is pushed forward for 2 reasons. It help move some weight forward ( for when I intall the EVX and run 2 packs in rear ), and also, I did not want to cut the battery tray. With the slipper eliminator and 8T pinions, It would have protruded in pretty deep, about 5/8".

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata


Projectwin, I am currently using the stock motors with the LRP F1 Pro Reverse. If I broke those axles already, what will happen when I install an EVX onto those motors? That's why I want to have better axles. The axles broke at the U joints, and it made the "U" into an "L". Also, I noticed that the rear shaft was also twisted a little.

I find this funny because I am running the traxxas slider shafts, and have been for awhile, and have never broken / popped / twisted one yet. I ran then with my EVX / Speed Gem 19T Double setup and my current EVX / Titan setup. Maybe I just have better luck? :confused:


I spoke to Andy, and he suggested the slipper clutch. It makes since but I have the slipper eliminator in my truck and others are always complaining about the slipper.

Slippers rule! I have mine cranked all the way down, but if the axles bind up, it still provides just a minor bit of slip to prevent damage to the drivetrain. Small insurance policy.


The tranny is pushed forward for 2 reasons. It help move some weight forward ( for when I intall the EVX and run 2 packs in rear ), and also, I did not want to cut the battery tray. With the slipper eliminator and 8T pinions, It would have protruded in pretty deep, about 5/8".

You wuss! Hack up that funky battery tray, add some spacers in the center to raise the front of the battery tray up, install a new end plate to prevent the batterys from sliding around, and you've got yourself a geat setup! :D :D

If I'm alive and moving in the morning, I'll try and get some detailed pictures of my battery tray up to you can get an idea of what i'm talking about.

Oh, and if you want to *beef* up the traxxas slider shafts, try this. The inner shaft is hollow right? Well, you can get a dowl rod and slide it in there (one the same size) to make it stronger right? Well, super glue it in and it'll help it not have the candy cane effect too. you could try finding an aluminum rod too...

-Andy

(Edits were for spelling errors)

[junk4calata]

Andy,

The tranny set up is done and I am happy with it. As for the shafts, I already knew about the dowel inside, my proplem is that they snap at the "U" joint where the metal ball goes.

[murf]

OK guys hear me out...I have built this truck ran it, broke it, fixed it, ran it , broke it again fixed it again, then modded it...ran it, broke it!!! My beef is with Tamiya...aside from the aluminum frame and suspension, this thing is an old design Jugg/Clod. I say C'mon Tamiya...whats with the brass bushings, MSC and cheap plastic load bearing parts...I was cool with all this at first, I got all the BB's, SR and Trinity motors. Thats over $600 not including radio to make it a running machine , so how does the TerraCrusher come out of the box RTR with radio for just about the same price I paid for my TXT-1 stock??? I'm just a little pissed about this...Hey Tamiya there is a little company down in Texas you might want to keep an eye on...I have been a die hard Tamiya guy since 1988, but now I don't know about that...
Later,
Murf

[Hairball]

Originally posted by murf
OK guys hear me out...I have built this truck ran it, broke it, fixed it, ran it , broke it again fixed it again, then modded it...ran it, broke it!!! My beef is with Tamiya...aside from the aluminum frame and suspension, this thing is an old design Jugg/Clod. I say C'mon Tamiya...whats with the brass bushings, MSC and cheap plastic load bearing parts...I was cool with all this at first, I got all the BB's, SR and Trinity motors. Thats over $600 not including radio to make it a running machine , so how does the TerraCrusher come out of the box RTR with radio for just about the same price I paid for my TXT-1 stock??? I'm just a little pissed about this...Hey Tamiya there is a little company down in Texas you might want to keep an eye on...I have been a die hard Tamiya guy since 1988, but now I don't know about that...
Later,
Murf

Well, if you leave the TXT-1 BONE STOCK, you'll probably never break it.... it goes to slow to do any real damage too it. I think the Tamiya R&D guys took this into account.

[JeffHo830]

Hey guys, check this drive shafts out. I found this in one of the discussion in RCMT.net. The people there found out the price is about $115.

http://www.sdp-si.com/search3/

This look really beefy. :D

Jeff

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by JeffHo830
Hey guys, check this drive shafts out. I found this in one of the discussion in RCMT.net. The people there found out the price is about $115.

http://www.sdp-si.com/search3/

This look really beefy. :D

Jeff

Jeff, the link is to a search page. We need a part number.

[JeffHo830]

Oops, there are 5 parts numbers:

A 5X 8MSE1306
A 5X 8MSE1608
A 5X 8MSE2010
A 5X 8MSE2512
A 5X 8MSE2514

If you check the lower left corner and scroll down to UNIVERSAL JOINTS, then select METAL TELESCOPING, then SPLINE TYPE TELESCOPING(METRIC). You should see a pic of the metal shaft I'm talking about. Good Luck.

Jeff

[speedydave]

Hairball, like I was asking you about before, about my friend breaking his TXT1(more like a temporary break...he just screws it back in, but it IS stripped), his is 100% stock, and he still manages to break it...:rolleyes:

[ProjectTwin]

Jeff, thanks for posting that link!

I had it bookmarked on my Athlon, but since I shipped if from Korea it's been nothing but problems. I couldn't even get it to install windows..:(

I picked up some aluminum...hopefully I'll get some parts made this weekend.

Jason

[Hairball]

Originally posted by speedydave
Hairball, like I was asking you about before, about my friend breaking his TXT1(more like a temporary break...he just screws it back in, but it IS stripped), his is 100% stock, and he still manages to break it...:rolleyes:

The piece that is stripped is plastic right? Well, either add a drop or two of super glue and QUICKLY screw it all back together, or try loctite and see if it helps.

loctite is a must on this rig.

And what is your friend doing to break it? Purposly crashing it into thinks? It is a TOY after all, not a bullet proof demolition derby machine.. :)

[Hairball]

Originally posted by JeffHo830
Hey guys, check this drive shafts out. I found this in one of the discussion in RCMT.net. The people there found out the price is about $115.

http://www.sdp-si.com/search3/

This look really beefy. :D

Jeff

Awesome find Jeff! I'll defiently be adding this to my truck sooner or later! :)

Now only if we could get them anodized....

[speedydave]

Originally posted by Hairball


The piece that is stripped is plastic right? Well, either add a drop or two of super glue and QUICKLY screw it all back together, or try loctite and see if it helps.

loctite is a must on this rig.

And what is your friend doing to break it? Purposly crashing it into thinks? It is a TOY after all, not a bullet proof demolition derby machine.. :)


Yes, it is a plastic piece, but all he's doing is mainly rock climbing in a dry riverbed. I think I'm going to try to convince him to go back to 4WS...

[ProjectTwin]

www.mcmaster.com (http://www.mcmaster.com)

Part number
94510A030

Metric Brass Knurler Press Insert W/Out Flange M3-0.5 Internal Thread, 3/16" Length
$ 7.58 per Pack
This item is only sold in Packs of 50

Jason

[JeffHo830]

Hey guys, glad I can help. A lot of people is organizing a group buy in rcmt.net in the txt-1 group. I don't know how to make a link from that site. So can't make the link for you guys. Hey Nick, you might want to check with those guys to make sure the size is right.

I have some more question. How does the Kimbrough servo saver helps turn the wheels better? Better question, how does the servo saver work? Right now I have the one from the kit installed and it seems to always come loose (the screws to hold the servo saver come loose. Is this a common thing for the kit's servo saver? If I installed the Kimbrough servo saver, I would need to drill my own holes to install the ball connector right?

Other than the servos problem. The truck is pretty much build now. Got a set of head and tail lights from ebay and make some simple mount for them from some computer's PCI slot cover. Those are some strong stuffs dude. Only thing left is the E-maxx tranny. But want to test the speed out with the stock tranny 1st. :D

I know I'm going to ask this soon or later, how do you tune down the slipper clutch on the E-maxx tranny? Thanks.

Jeff

[junk4calata]

I think I found a better deal on those shafts. They are made by megatech and are for the Terrachrusher's shafts from the differential to the wheels. Only problem is there is no picture. Nore am I sure where to get it from. On modeltechs site it is listed for $50, but that's retail price.

Its the second from the bottom at the link. p/n 24830.

Steel shafts (http://www.megatech.com/terra_crusher_hop_ups.html)

Or, in the t-maxx section, search p/n 22308. Only problem is that I am not sure which has which size shaft hole (5mm/6mm)

[Hairball]

Originally posted by JeffHo830

I have some more question. How does the Kimbrough servo saver helps turn the wheels better? Better question, how does the servo saver work? Right now I have the one from the kit installed and it seems to always come loose (the screws to hold the servo saver come loose. Is this a common thing for the kit's servo saver? If I installed the Kimbrough servo saver, I would need to drill my own holes to install the ball connector right?


It works off spring tension. The *BLACK* one has a really high spring tension, and it realy helps the trucks turning. I have one on each end of my truck.

[murf]

Oh Yeah, I forgot to mention the sloppy servo savers in my Tamiya rip...don't get me wrong, with a little work the truck is a machine!!! How could ya not love it if ya built it...Its just that I think Tamiya could have waited on this one did a little more RD and make it a true Xtreme truck like it says on the box. But the question remains, how do they put out the Terra Crusher RTR (which as far as I know is a totally new design) for close to the same price as the TXT-1 kit (which uses some of the old designs)??? anyway its just a hobby! Have fun running this weekend and if ya break stuff, fix it and make it better...
Murf

[murf]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by JeffHo830
If I installed the Kimbrough servo saver, I would need to drill my own holes to install the ball connector right?

Jeff, the Kimbrough servo horn has the holes in it already...just have to drill out the center one a little bigger for the 3mm (.118)shaft...use a 7/64 (.109) drill which is a little smaller and use the ball connector like a tap and thread it in...you can use a 1/8 drill but it is a little too big and may have slop...either way put some loctite on all the shaft/nut connections...

[Hairball]

I just drilled mine out to allow the shaft to pass through, then use a self-locking nut on the other side. Works great.

I have found that I needed to trim the sides of the servo saver down so that it won't hit the axle housing though. Once you get it all mounted up, you'll see what I'm talking about.

[JeffHo830]

Hey guys, thanks for the tip. Man what a different a good servo saver does. Now I can turn the way I want to turn now. :D Kinda in a process to clean the wiring mess as clean as possible. I had to added another rx pack to the receiver pack to turn the servos. Since for some reason, the F1 Pro reverse only able to give power to one side (motors or the servos). Is this a typical problems with the ESC in the monster truck? Since they are powering 2 motors instead of the usual 1 motor?

Jeff

[Hairball]

Originally posted by JeffHo830
Hey guys, thanks for the tip. Man what a different a good servo saver does. Now I can turn the way I want to turn now. :D Kinda in a process to clean the wiring mess as clean as possible. I had to added another rx pack to the receiver pack to turn the servos. Since for some reason, the F1 Pro reverse only able to give power to one side (motors or the servos). Is this a typical problems with the ESC in the monster truck? Since they are powering 2 motors instead of the usual 1 motor?

Jeff

I have an EVX speedo, made for running dual motors. It puts out 5v to the Rx equipment. From time to time, if I've got the wheels positioned just righ, the truck will go dead, no throttle. It because the servos are robbing all the power, and the ESC is left with nothing to run itself. A simple Rx pack should fix this, I just havent found one I like / found a place to mount it yet.

For cleaning up the wiring, use LOTS of tie wraps, and if needed, a little hot glue works well too.

-Andy

[JeffHo830]

Hi guys, got some questions about motors. I'm about to swap out the stock 540 motors and replace it with the Trinity 17x1 motors. I had been reading around and people said you need to put the capacitors on the motors. Are the capacitors needed? It's running fine right now without the capacitors on the stock motors. Am I damaging the ESC if I'm don't have the capacitors install? Thanks for the info.

Jeff

[junk4calata]

Hey, was searching the net and found a site that shows how to make your own longer drive shafts. I thought I'd share.Link (http://www.albatrossrcworld.com/Tech/drive-shafts.htm)

[ProjectTwin]

J4,

the problem with those driveshafts is that they're a fixed length. They don't telescope they way we need them to for a TXT.

In an application such as a Pajero or Tamiya XC chassis, they'd be great, but in a vehicle where the driveshafts need to be able to expand/compress, those offer no movement.

The MIP CVD's are bad idea for this reason also. They're a fixed length.

Jason

[junk4calata]

ProjectTwin,

They are telescopable. They are the original universals with the shaft lenghtened. They still retain the cross pin from the original shaft. The black metal cap was taken off, the shaft replaced and then put back together.

[junk4calata]

Then, for the money I guess a combo of the GPM STEEL shafts for the Jugg and the ESP Stainless Steel entenders are the best bet. That is what I am going to try, I can't put up with breaking a set of shafts every single run with out even emptying the battery.

The Shaft that Jeff posted about and is talked more about on RCMT.net, costs almost $150 EACH plus shipping. With the GPM and ESP combo, I can have two full shafts for less than $150 shipped. Plus I have the added benefits of cutting the extenders to fit my application, and also if anything were to break, there are direct replacement parts available.

GPM Steel Shafts for the TXT-1 (http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=347&car_id=33) ($82.00)
ESP Stainless Steel Extenders (http://www.esphobby.com/juggerna.htm) ($29.95)

[ProjectTwin]

J4, I must've misunderstood. I thought they were replacing the shaft with a longer piece.

Jason

[Hairball]

Originally posted by JeffHo830
Hey guys, check this drive shafts out. I found this in one of the discussion in RCMT.net. The people there found out the price is about $115.

http://www.sdp-si.com/search3/

If you check the lower left corner and scroll down to UNIVERSAL JOINTS, then select METAL TELESCOPING, then SPLINE TYPE TELESCOPING(METRIC). You should see a pic of the metal shaft I'm talking about. Good Luck.

This look really beefy. :D

Jeff

I still think this is the best way to go... forget all that other crap. These have got to be the strongest ones available. Just a little on the pricey side...

But then again, this whole rig is on the pricey side, so why not?! :D

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball


I still think this is the best way to go... forget all that other crap. These have got to be the strongest ones available. Just a little on the pricey side...

But then again, this whole rig is on the pricey side, so why not?! :D

Because with the GPM ones, you can get 2 for under $150, while the other shafts are 2 for $300 ( because if you want them now, no one is actually doing a group buy 100% yet so your on your own and that means you pay the highest price ).

And at $300 dollars, its almost the price of the rig alone. Besides, to ask you your own question back - what will the next weakest point be? The internal differential gears?

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata

And at $300 dollars, its almost the price of the rig alone. Besides, to ask you your own question back - what will the next weakest point be? The internal differential gears?

Well, I really don't know what the heck you guys problem is with the Traxxas sliders. I've never blown one, and I can bet money on the fact that I'm way harder on my rig then you guys are on yours.

Since the Maxx tranny install, the only drivetrain related problem I've had is a blown idler gear in the tranny, and I suspect that was due to me having fun going from reverse to forward too much.

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball


Well, I really don't know what the heck you guys problem is with the Traxxas sliders. I've never blown one, and I can bet money on the fact that I'm way harder on my rig then you guys are on yours.

Since the Maxx tranny install, the only drivetrain related problem I've had is a blown idler gear in the tranny, and I suspect that was due to me having fun going from reverse to forward too much.

I guess it has to do with all the torque 8T Pinions / 72T Spur :confused:

Seriously, I've personally broken 2 sets of output yokes and bent a slider in the rear ( All without reverse/forward jerks ).

[Hairball]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by junk4calata
[B]
I guess it has to do with all the torque 8T Pinions / 72T Spur :confused:
QUOTE]

I've got the 8T pinions, just havnet installed them yet. Too lazy. :D

[NitroRookie]

Originally posted by Hairball
[QUOTE]Originally posted by junk4calata
[B]
I guess it has to do with all the torque 8T Pinions / 72T Spur :confused:
[QUOTE]

I've got the 8T pinions, just havnet installed them yet. Too lazy. :D


What kind of torque would you get from have two 8T pinions on the motors ?

[Hairball]

Originally posted by NitroRookie

What kind of torque would you get from have two 8T pinions on the motors ?

Apparently enough to break drivetrain parts.

[NitroRookie]

Hairball,

Can you please be more specific or can you elaborate more. I'm want to know the numbers.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by NitroRookie
Hairball,

Can you please be more specific or can you elaborate more. I'm want to know the numbers.

Will you buy me the equipment to acuratley measure torque at the tranmission output and at the wheels? ;)

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball


Apparently enough to break drivetrain parts.


I've done it and so has Jason.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata

I've done it and so has Jason.

Ask a silly question, get a equally silly answer.

I was assuming an answer like "A LOT OF TORQUE" or "ENOUGH TORQUE" wasnt going to make the cut here.

He asked for a specific thing. Like numbers for torque specs. How in the world do you get numbers like that for an R/C car?

I've rebuilt and dyno'd real life engines, and the dyno gives you those kind of numbers. Then you place the vehicle on a machine to give you "AT THE WHEELS" numbers like that.

I don't think its possible to get torque specs for R/C cars. So I proceded to answer the question as best I could. Yes, it forced me to be a smartass.

[junk4calata]

Totally understandable. BTW, keep in mind that I don't have the slipper in mine and I don't think Jason does either ( not 100% sure )

[ProjectTwin]

I'm running the slipper (with six friction pegs installed), but still twisting the sliders. (very slight) I did manage to pop the yokes at one point, but only off the 4-way ball in the center of the u-joint. They didn't break, just popped one ear of the yoke off the 4-way.

The lower gear ratio(8/72) puts more torque on the driveshafts than a higher (15/66)...Like HB said, it's hard to measure.

Jason

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin
I'm running the slipper (with six friction pegs installed), but still twisting the sliders. (very slight) I did manage to pop the yokes at one point, but only off the 4-way ball in the center of the u-joint. They didn't break, just popped one ear of the yoke off the 4-way.

The lower gear ratio(8/72) puts more torque on the driveshafts than a higher (15/66)...Like HB said, it's hard to measure.

Jason

Just out of curiousity, what about hooking up a torque wrench to the wheel lock nut? I am talking about the older types that use a swinging needle to show torque.

obviously I am bored am just brainstorming - its kinda of a joke and also possible if someone with the tools has time.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata


Just out of curiousity, what about hooking up a torque wrench to the wheel lock nut? I am talking about the older types that use a swinging needle to show torque.

obviously I am bored am just brainstorming - its kinda of a joke and also possible if someone with the tools has time.

Hmm, interesting theroy.

Maybe not an accurate way, but it could give us numbers to compare at least?

But would you measure the wheel, or the tranny output? And at the wheels, would you unhook the front / rear drive line to measure only one end? Lock one wheel so the diff doesnt unload?

Hmmm, I think you're on to something J4....
(Just needs a little fine tuning)

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball


But would you measure the wheel, or the tranny output? And at the wheels, would you unhook the front / rear drive line to measure only one end? Lock one wheel so the diff doesnt unload?

Hmmm, I think you're on to something J4....
(Just needs a little fine tuning)

Not sure. Never done it. I guess it would have to be fine tuned while in progress. I think the other 3 wheels would have to be held in place to prevent the differential from unloading.

Its funny how they have formulas for gear ratios, top speed, etc, but nothing for torque ( even thou final torque really depends on motor capability so then again if you measure your rig, its only accurate for those motors).

It was just a silly thought while I was bored and brainstorming.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
It was just a silly thought while I was bored and brainstorming.

A silly thought with good intentions behind it.

Really, if you (we, whoever) got something to actuaratly measure torque of an R/C car, you coudl actually compare stock and modified models and COMPARE THEM for real.

On the track tests of models totaly depend on the driver, but for horsepower / torque test you could really compare the cars and there powertrains.

[junk4calata]

I found a new site ( for me anyway ) on the net that I thought might help others also.

Metal for sale (http://www.lowcostmetals.com/)

[junk4calata]

Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional

Growing up? Whats that?

[junk4calata]

Ok, I need help with my new set up. About 2 months ago, I bought a EVX. It turned out to be dead on arrival so I sent it in to Traxxas for warrenty repair. I finally got it back ( about 1.5 months later --- AAAHHHH ) and it worked.... for about 5 minutes until it stopped again. I went thru the reprogramming 3 times and no help. The led works fine, but it puts out no power to the motors. I tried other battery packs and new motors, no help. I was wondering if I am actually doing something wrong by using it to power the stock txt motors? It has enough power and speed for me with that set up. I don't really want to invest / change over to 550 motors. So again, I am doing something wrong with the 540 motors/evx combo, or is it a bad esc?????


Thanks all in advance,
Nick

[ProjectTwin]

I had that problem with my first EVx...it turned out that one of the batts had false peaked...if one batt is near dead it won't operate right.

I re-peaked and all was fine.

Jason

[StevePond]

Hey J! You back home yet, or are you still overseas?

[Hairball]

Originally posted by SteveP
Hey J! You back home yet, or are you still overseas?

Ya, this really belongs in the TXT-1 forum. :)

[Mason Copeland]

I really want to get a Txt-1 and heres my list...
http://www.boomspeed.com/masonc/untitled.bmp
What do you think, anything else I should consider or change? I all ready know about bearings but I ouldn't find them as a set, do you know of a set I could get or which bearings I need? Thanks. Christmas is only 6 months away and I all ready have -$40!:D I can't stand not having this awesome truck. BTW: Do you guys run locked diffs?

[bluesy]

Mason...... unless you plan on using an EVX speed contol from an E-Maxx don't get the Maxx motors. Just take a few minutes and have a look through this thread to see how Hairball and RCTinkerman (and others) have modified their TXT's to handle the EVX and Maxx motors. It will be extremely helpful. The Clod bearing set has most of what you need but there are some extras that aren't in there. Again scan through this thread to find a list of the bearings (with sizes).

I run mine bone stock (except for bearings) and love the heck out of it. Get lots of run time and crawl rocks that my E-Maxx runs away from.

I hope you can find your way to getting one of these babies......they are a ton of fun.

Hope this has been of some minor help.....

:cool: :cool:

[Mason Copeland]

Why do you say run the EVX ESC? So I can run dual packs? I'm also considering keeping the stock motors in for crawling. Thnaks for the tips. Do you have an estimate on the run-time? With what battery? Do you have any insight on the locked diffs? Sorry for all the ?'s and thanks for the help.

[Mason Copeland]

Found this on Towers kit specs list... Duh Mason!

Qty. Size Location

(1) 6mm x 11mm gear assembly
(1) 5mm x 8mm gear assembly
(3) 5mm x 11mm gear assembly
(1) 6mm x 11mm gearbox
(1) 5mm x 8mm pinion gear
(1) 5mm x 11mm pinion gear
(8) 5mm x 8mm frame assembly
(4) 6mm x 11mm drive bevel gear shaft
(6) 5mm x 11mm drive bevel gear shaft
(2) 5mm x 8mm drive bevel gear shaft
(8) 6mm x 12mm drive shaft
(8) 6mm x 12mm upright assembly

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by SteveP
Hey J! You back home yet, or are you still overseas?

Steve, I'm back in the states. Good ol' Augusta, Georgia again. Pulling time as an instructor here, teaching electronics theory and component level troubleshooting to the new trainees.

I have about 10 months left in the Army. I would love to get a chance to talk to you...

jasoncj3a@hotmail.com


Jason

[ProjectTwin]

Mason,

On your list, there's a couple of things I thought (for what it's worth) you might want to consider:


1/4 scale servo
Servosaver


The 1/4 scale servos are capable of high-torque, are cheaper, and since the gears are larger (wider tooth face), the load is spread over a greater area, unlike our 1/10 scale servos. 1/4 scale servos are also a direct fit into the TXT. Bonus!

The stock servosaver, for the lack of a better word...sucks.

I'm currently using the Kimbrough #124 (on-road nitro). There's a warning note that comes with the #124; for use on metal gear servos only.

Just offering up a couple of alternatives.

If you want some 550 size motors, take a look at the Kyosho Magnetic Mayhems...7.2V, 22 turn singles if I remember right.

Jason

[bluesy]

Mason.... the only reason I suggested the EVX is because the Maxx motors are designed for 14 volt input. The EVX is deisgned to have two series battery packs to supply the required voltage to the motors. I'm not up to speed on all the possible ESC's out there that can handle more than 6 cells (in series) but maybe someone here can help you with that if you are set on using the Maxx motors. Personally I'd use a Super Rooster and some lower wind 7.2 volt motors.

hope this is of some help..............

:cool: :cool:

[Mason Copeland]

Oh, I see what you mean, good idea. Do you mean low turn or high turn motors? Would a low turn motor not have enough torque to launch this beast? BTW: Sorry about the pic being gone but it's size took up all (and more) of my hosting service room!

[Mason Copeland]

I might just stick with the stock motors cause they have a lot of run-time and torque for rock-climbing (but you knew that:D ).

[Mason Copeland]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin
Mason,

On your list, there's a couple of things I thought (for what it's worth) you might want to consider:


1/4 scale servo
Servosaver


The 1/4 scale servos are capable of high-torque, are cheaper, and since the gears are larger (wider tooth face), the load is spread over a greater area, unlike our 1/10 scale servos. 1/4 scale servos are also a direct fit into the TXT. Bonus!

The stock servosaver, for the lack of a better word...sucks.

I'm currently using the Kimbrough #124 (on-road nitro). There's a warning note that comes with the #124; for use on metal gear servos only.

Just offering up a couple of alternatives.

If you want some 550 size motors, take a look at the Kyosho Magnetic Mayhems...7.2V, 22 turn singles if I remember right.

Jason Hey thanks for the 1/4 scale servo idea! Thats great, I don't see how they are a direct fit though... Thanks for helping me out. The mag mahems sound good to I've heard many good things about the run-time on those too.

[Mason Copeland]

Oh yeah, check this servo out... http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXN609&P=7 $50 for a servo that has 224 oz. in. of torque at 4.8 volts. Wow, thanks for the info Jason, dude you rock (you too bluesy:D ). Thanks again.

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by Mason Copeland
Hey thanks for the 1/4 scale servo idea! Thats great, I don't see how they are a direct fit though... Thanks for helping me out. The mag mahems sound good to I've heard many good things about the run-time on those too.

Check this pic out...

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/stocktxt.jpg

See the slots in the front underguard? You can see that I'm using the one on the far right and the 3rd slot from the right. The servo is held onto the underguard with a couple of plastic standoffs. To run a 1/4 scale servo, you simply use the wider slots.

Easy, eh?

Jason

[Mason Copeland]

Thats great! Why didn't Tamiya think of this? They did with the Terra Crusher...