Tamiya TXT-1 v1.0

[Fetztang]

even if it didnt have a lot of sentimental value i can just see me smileing from ear to ear when people compliment me on my awsome work. and i love doing stuff like that and wouldnt mind the money. plus i got the family collision shop for likie endless resorces:spray booth,frame shop,4 wheel alighnment,any tool you would evr need for a car and then some:D


andy do you have any experience with body work ect or are you just gonna wing it?
Brian

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata


My apologies. I had no idea about the meaning behind it. I thought that is was going to be just another restoration project. Sorry for the confusion.

No hard feelings man. Just thought I'd explain my interest in the truck a little better. :)

-Andy

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Fetztang

andy do you have any experience with body work ect or are you just gonna wing it?
Brian

Me personally? Nope, besides bending fenders (I rolled an '86 Jeep Cherokee when I was 16), never tried fixing them. But my wife's uncle owns a body shop, so I think he's going to hook me up with a lot of the hard stuff.

I'm a down and dirty grease man myself. Welding and wrenching are my thing. Making stuff look pretty? I'll leave that to the more experienced folks. :)

[bluesy]

Andy.... what an awesome tribute to your Dad!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Best of everything when you get started. It sounds as if you have a pretty good support system when it comes to getting this project done.

:cool: :cool:

[JeffHo830]

Hey Nick, that's a nice setup TXT you got there. Love the color theme. Haven't really seen a bright yellow TXT before. Hey Andy, don't forget to give us update on your TXT-nitro and your restoration of your classic when you get a chance. I personally like those old old 60s Chevy truck like the ones you see in Karate Kids. :D Don't know much about cars/trucks. But from what I heard from my former boss. Those old truck is like a tank. Just curious, how strong are they? Would that make it hard to work with tho?

Jeff

[Hairball]

Originally posted by bluesy
Andy.... what an awesome tribute to your Dad!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Best of everything when you get started. It sounds as if you have a pretty good support system when it comes to getting this project done.
:cool: :cool:

Thanks! All I know is that is going to be a long project, but I've got all the time in the world. :)

Going to cost me a bloody furtune though... :eek:

[Anthony]

hey saw that others like old trucks my favorit is a 1967 jeep/kiaser m715 i dont know how to put pic on the posts but if you look on ebay and search m715 there are some there

:)
noe to the bigger problem iv got a futaba 2pc and its not working any more, its like over night it died i got new batteries new cryestals nothing works the serve just twithes in you guys vast knolage what do i do?:confused:

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony
noe to the bigger problem iv got a futaba 2pc and its not working any more, its like over night it died i got new batteries new cryestals nothing works the serve just twithes in you guys vast knolage what do i do?:confused:

I not really a radio repair buff, so I'd just send it in for repair. Before that I would check every connection to make sure they were all in good working condition. Do you have any other raido gear you could try to try and eliminate things that ARE NOT the problem?

I got my E-Maxx wet the other day (playing on the beach, should have known better... but it was so much fun!), and it just died on me. Nothing. No power, no lights, to twitching. Just dead.

I tore it all apart, hooked the ESC up to another reciever I have and it still worked, so that wasnt the problem, hooked the servos up, they still worked. So I narrowed it down to the reciever. A $75 Ko Propo. UGH!

I took the plastic case off, and foudn that seawater had corroaded a few of the terminals (in 2 hours, fast). cleaned them up, plugged it all back in, and it works great. *whew*

Your crystal socket may be a little loose as well. and make sure you have the TX crystall in the radio, and the RX crystall in the reciever.

-Andy

[Anthony]

the thing is it died overnight i was useing it then in the morning it would not turn on? i also left the transmitter on to overnight that sucks:(

and some one thought about putting a nitro generator in so that you dont need any batteries and hairball, on your web site you said that you hade to raise the battery box so that the moters would fit:
first you could have put them in backwards and wired them that way also or you could have swaped the trays around so that the radio tray is in the rear and the battery box is in the front

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony
[B]the thing is it died overnight i was useing it then in the morning it would not turn on? i also left the transmitter on to overnight that sucks:(


Please tell me you tried using different batteries?

[b]
and some one thought about putting a nitro generator in so that you dont need any batteries and hairball, on your web site you said that you hade to raise the battery box so that the moters would fit:
first you could have put them in backwards and wired them that way also or you could have swaped the trays around so that the radio tray is in the rear and the battery box is in the front

Tried that. If I put the tranny in backwards, the motor plate would hit, so I'd still be in the same situation as before.

Whatever you mount stuff, you're going to have to hack up the truck a little if you follow in my footsteps. I came up with a better way to layout the entire truck, just havent been able to get it to work the way I wanted it to. It involves a one peice upper deck. Its just there wasnt enough room for all my electronic crap. Close though....

Setting up an alternator on a Nitro engine is an idea, but I don't think its a very good one. The batteryies provide constast power to the vehicle's electroics, where an alternator would vari with the engines RPM, and rod power from the engine as well. I'm not sure one could be built that small that would work properly anyway. :)

[Anthony]

that was the first next thing i did to itmy new f1 pro reverse just lights up red (neutral) i think i somehow fried it




Please tell me you tried using different batteries?

:confused:

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony
that was the first next thing i did to itmy new f1 pro reverse just lights up red (neutral) i think i somehow fried it
Please tell me you tried using different batteries?
:confused:

You put new batteries in your transmitter right? Maybe thats why its dead.

And for the LRP F1 Pro? Sell it, junk it, whatever.. get a Novak. LRP's speedos are unreliable junk. I've seen and read about sooo many problems people are having with them. Never had a problem with a Novak....

[Anthony]

oh ya ha ha;)
ya all were replaced

well ill blow it befor i sell it just got it today, i found some diagrames in a smallengine book of mine i should have a few up tonight all about moters make ing power like a snpwblower with lights and theres differnet configurations not sure how to read them but sure someone does

[MaxxQbn]

Well, I finally finished my TXT-1 for now.

Novak SuperRooster
Trinity 17x2 Speed Gems
Trinity Motor Heat Sinks
Powerline Shocks
JR XR3 Radio
Ballistic Stupidity Skids

I hope to post PICs soon:)

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball


And for the LRP F1 Pro? Sell it, junk it, whatever.. get a Novak. LRP's speedos are unreliable junk. I've seen and read about sooo many problems people are having with them. Never had a problem with a Novak....

Are you sure we are on the same planet ( I know different continents ). I love my LRP. Never gave me trouble. The Novak EVX was shipped back twice for warrenty repair. Didn't even get 10 minutes run time out of it in the last 3+ months I've owned it.

And if you say anything about my configuration, It was run in the same config as the LRP.

I am giving up on conventional motors thou. I am waiting for Modeltech to release their new Brushless motors. I've heard/read about the novak system, but they are supposed to come out about 1.5 years ago. If it comes out before the modeltech, I might give it a try and sell it if I don't like it.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
Are you sure we are on the same planet ( I know different continents ). I love my LRP. Never gave me trouble. The Novak EVX was shipped back twice for warrenty repair. Didn't even get 10 minutes run time out of it in the last 3+ months I've owned it.


Same planet? You tell me man, I only work here.

Well, ok. I know Novak designed the EVX, but Traxxas seems to have jinxed the thing or something. A friend of mine went through 4 LRPs before he got his quantum pro working right. AE is very good about the warranty, but still.... screw that.

I've but my cyclones through hell and back, and never had a problem... going to be getting a super rooster soon for my TXT-1. I've given up on the EVX thing. I'll just leave it in the E-Maxx, belongs there anyway.

-Andy

[junk4calata]

Well, I've actually had very good luck with futaba ESCs. Have 2 currently in the house. No problems. Smaller than the F1 PRO ( about the same size as the Novak XXL receivers. It can handle 7 cells and down to 13 turn motors. Didn't even get warm when I run 7 cells and 14 turn motor.

I want to try the EVX on a Tamiya TL01 thou.

It's sad that Tekin went out of business. They had very reliable products.

[junk4calata]

I remember back when this thread was only 13 pages long, someone said they were lazy and didn't want to read thru all that.

GOOD LUCK to all the new comers. Over 40 pages now.

[junk4calata]

I've already made my own servo mounts out of aluminum 90 degree stock.

BUT

I've finally found a set of standard type aluminum servo mounts.

See link to purchase (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXGE01&P=7)

Picture (http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcitem/parts/img/53308.jpeg)

Hope this helps others that want to stiffen up the steering or have worn out their stock plastic ones.

[JonDax]

Currently I have full bearings, a Super Rooster, 2 Reedy Rage motors, Tamiya blue shocks and links, and BS skids all around. I'm gonna replace all the self tapping screws this weekend, and now I'm gonna order the alum servo mounts listed above. I love this thing! It's so much fun!
--Jonathan

[junk4calata]

It drove itself into this. It's not that fast with stock motors, but has plenty of torque.

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by Hairball



I've but my cyclones through hell and back, and never had a problem... going to be getting a super rooster soon for my TXT-1. I've given up on the EVX thing. I'll just leave it in the E-Maxx, belongs there anyway.

-Andy

OMG this is coming from Hairball? :) Man, how long ago did I try to tell ya that? :p

EVX is a "speed" speed control

Jason

[Anthony]

i just got a new tx a xr2 and now i dont know what to do theres a blue FET wire what do i do with that "solder to an this in place now ???:confused:

whats up with this i cant even set it up right

[Hairball]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin


OMG this is coming from Hairball? :) Man, how long ago did I try to tell ya that? :p

EVX is a "speed" speed control

Jason

Ya ya ya.... I've started taking a harder look at my R/C habbit, trying to spend money more wisley now. The Helicopter takes up most of my *hobby cash*, so when I spend cash on the monster trucks, I want to be sure its in the right direction. :)

The more I break, the more I learn.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony
i just got a new tx a xr2 and now i dont know what to do theres a blue FET wire what do i do with that "solder to an this in place now ???:confused:

whats up with this i cant even set it up right

First, please post complete thoughts and complete sentances. It really helps us help you.

From what I understand here is that you don't know what to do with the blue wire correct? The answer. Do nothing. Its for 4 wire digital FET servos that use that wire. Most don't, so you don't have to worry about it. :)

-Andy

[Anthony]

o

well had my first run with the new stuff and all that i have to tell is that im placeing an order from tower:D

anyway it flys and iv been jumping a 45 degree ramp it got freqent flyer mile for the day

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by Hairball


Ya ya ya.... I've started taking a harder look at my R/C habbit, trying to spend money more wisley now. The Helicopter takes up most of my *hobby cash*, so when I spend cash on the monster trucks, I want to be sure its in the right direction. :)

The more I break, the more I learn.

Ut-oh...helis! 'spensive and less forgiving on crashes. Best of luck to ya, I'll stick with RealFlight, crash and reset. :)


Jason

[JeffHo830]

Hi guys, I want to use my transmitter to control another truck. How do I do this? Do I have to take out the Rx from the current truck and move it to the new truck and set the new truck with a new model? Or can I just get any Rx and put that Rx in the same frequency crystal as my transmitter to control it? Can anyone recommand a good 3 channels Rx? Thanks for any help in advance.

Jeff

[Anthony]

the best thing to do get one the same make and model number that is on your reciver that way they are the same for both trucks

[Hairball]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin


Ut-oh...helis! 'spensive and less forgiving on crashes. Best of luck to ya, I'll stick with RealFlight, crash and reset. :)

Jason

Yes, but you don't know how cool of a feeling it is to see your baby spool up and lift off the ground for the first time. Talk about exciting!

My Ergo 60 was just beautiful hovering off the ground at around 10 feet, the coolest thing I've done with R/C stuff ever. Then mother nature decided it shouldn't fly anymore. A big gust of wind came up and *threw* my poor Heli in the ground. Now I'm waiting for replacement parts...

I miss crashing my TXT-1. $20 worth of damage at most. The Heli crash, it's over $100.... :(

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

do you have a gyro? i think they are suppose to save them from gusts of wind, not sure.. o well, tower hobbies has a micro gyro for 28bucks under scratch and dent... good luck fixing it!


how's the TXT1? post some pics once in a while guys!

[Hairball]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
do you have a gyro? i think they are suppose to save them from gusts of wind, not sure.. o well, tower hobbies has a micro gyro for 28bucks under scratch and dent... good luck fixing it!


28 bucks.. HA! I use a JR Gt500T TL gyro. Street price, $400.

The gryo is used to keep the tail rotor under control and keep the Heli spinning in one direction without you have to do it.

The TXT-1 is still broke. :(

Hopefully next payday I'll be able to fix it.

[Anthony]

The TXT-1 is still broke. :(


what brokeon your truck?

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony
The TXT-1 is still broke. :(

what brokeon your truck?

I *just* got the drivelines fixed.

Now its needs motors and a speed control... with till the end of the month to get paid....

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Originally posted by Hairball
28 bucks.. HA! I use a JR Gt500T TL gyro. Street price, $400.



lol enough money spent an electronics? :D
somebody make a movie of this thing, that would be awesome! (BTW: what kind of set up did RCCA use in their TXT-1 vid? it looked pretty fast)

[Anthony]

16t crome stock team orion and a high torque steering servo

i got just a bout the same setup wont stop poping the links off

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

did they have 14.4 volts or 7.2?

[Hairball]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY



lol enough money spent an electronics? :D
somebody make a movie of this thing, that would be awesome!

You have no idea... :) I'm working on getting a digital video camera right now, if I do, I'll have to post some in flight vids of the thing.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony
16t crome stock team orion and a high torque steering servo

i got just a bout the same setup wont stop poping the links off

Where are the links popping off? I had a problem with the black ball link cups popping off like crazy (the 4 link suspension ones).

Fix? Lots of blue loctite. BLUE LOCTITE EVERYWHERE!!! :)

[Hairball]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
did they have 14.4 volts or 7.2?

For the TXT-1 VS E-Maxx article, they used an EVX speed control with Titan motors. (14.4v)

For everything else I've seen they use the Super Rooster. (7.2v)

[Anthony]

Where are the links popping off? I had a problem with the black ball link cups popping off like crazy (the 4 link suspension ones).


there on the bottom where the links meet the bottom lower brace i kinda fixed it by CA ing it togheter (along with my fingers:eek: ) the ball links where the shocks mount i put them in backwards both front one poped off at the same time part D2 broke wher the bearing get put the canter piece fix:filled with hot glue sucks towers out of stock

broke both torsion bars in a few hours of each other that sucked to

that was all in three days :rolleyes:

[Anthony]

For the TXT-1 VS E-Maxx article, they used an EVX speed control with Titan motors. (14.4v)

when was this:confused: i would like to see that one

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony
For the TXT-1 VS E-Maxx article, they used an EVX speed control with Titan motors. (14.4v)

when was this:confused: i would like to see that one

Its in the Radio Control 2002 Monster Trucks special edition. (July 2002)

Starting on page 45.

[Anthony]

which truck won?

the txt-1 probly kicked the &#$@ out of it:D

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony
which truck won?

the txt-1 probly kicked the &#$@ out of it:D

Actually, it was a tie. Both trucks have good points and bad points. So they each shine in different areas...

I have both, and enjoy both almost equally. I used to not like the E-Maxx at all until I actually got one. Changed my mind quite a bit.

Buts its not fast enough. Needs someone with a little more kick to it... Brushless?? :D

[Anthony]

Brushless??

thats a very good idea when school stars up agian in september im going to make a set of alloy tranny gears this is going to cost me nothing beside the cost for bits that they dont have

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony
Brushless??

thats a very good idea


Brushless is always a good idea until you look at how much those damn things cost.

A single motor and speed control will cost you more than the E-Maxx is worth. What about TWO? OMG!

[Anthony]

team orion at tower is 89.99 per moter and 209.99 for the esc

theres three moters 8,9,10 turn i think

[TimmyRC10T3]

I check Tower. It is 89.99 for a motor and 169.99 for an ESC. The motors come in what is equal to a brush motor. 8,10,12 turns are avialible. If you get them chances are only one is going to be more power then you need. I am not sure if the controller can handle more then one motor or how many cells either. I have heard the even low mod like 12T puts out maybe 250w at the most while a BL will put out 600+w. So that is alot of power also probably more RPM's too. Just have to wait and see.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by TimmyRC10T3
I check Tower. It is 89.99 for a motor and 169.99 for an ESC. The motors come in what is equal to a brush motor. 8,10,12 turns are avialible. If you get them chances are only one is going to be more power then you need. I am not sure if the controller can handle more then one motor or how many cells either. I have heard the even low mod like 12T puts out maybe 250w at the most while a BL will put out 600+w. So that is alot of power also probably more RPM's too. Just have to wait and see.

I wonder how brushless motor would work in my TXT-1? I'm running the maxx tranny, so putting two in would be easy, but do they have the low end torque that brushed motors do??

[ProjectTwin]

HB, there are brushless Juggy vids on my site. I was running 10 cells on Mode 1 with a Modeltech motor and controller.

Grenaded the tranny. It's pretty much uncontrollable at speed. At the time my jugg wasn't set up for crawling...check out the vids.

Jason

[Fetztang]

for that txt/e shoot out it figures rcca wouldnt pick a winner they never give bad reviews always "all in all its a good car". but i better not get started about the things i dont like about rcca
Brian



EDIT: i was thinking the other day about a car with endless suspension and wondering if yuo could do this: have a solid axle truck take off the axles and mount in its place a gear box with a-arms and all from a independant susspension truck

now if this did work you could leave it like that and get some wicked air or mount links in place of the shocks on the independent suspension "clip" and get some cralling action in for you rock crawler nuts:D

give me some feed back or ask some Q's if you dont understand

Brian

edit2 man i spell like a kid that rides the little bus

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Fetztang
for that txt/e shoot out it figures rcca wouldnt pick a winner they never give bad reviews always "all in all its a good car". but i better not get started about the things i dont like about rcca
Brian


Crazy as it may seem, but RCCA seems to go quite well mixing politics with R/C stuff. bastards... :D


EDIT: i was thinking the other day about a car with endless suspension and wondering if yuo could do this: have a solid axle truck take off the axles and mount in its place a gear box with a-arms and all from a independant susspension truck

now if this did work you could leave it like that and get some wicked air or mount links in place of the shocks on the independent suspension "clip" and get some crawlling action in for you rock crawler nuts:D


Interesting idea. Like locking the suspension to make it a *solid axle* and attacting links to a cantalever setup. (I'm thinking the TXT-1 here).

It would be very hard to design it and make it all work though.

[Anthony]

the only thing that i dont like about the txt-1 is that for jumping resons there to much suspention travel so the truck bounces every where and brakes parts in the procces

ant one know what the torson bars are made or thinking ofwelding it i think its steel but it sems to be too stif

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony
the only thing that i dont like about the txt-1 is that for jumping resons there to much suspention travel so the truck bounces every where and brakes parts in the procces

ant one know what the torson bars are made or thinking ofwelding it i think its steel but it sems to be too stif

When you say torson bars, I'm assuming you mean the sway bars? If so, just buy new ones, they are really cheap.

And for bouncy suspension, all you have to do is some suspension tweaking to get rid of it. Smooth aluminum shocks, and the right combination of oil and spring rates should give you a smooth ride.

But, Monster Trucks by design (true solid axle ones thats is) bonce like crazy when jumped. Its just the way it is. If you want good jumping and soft landing, and independant suspension truck would suit you better.

[Anthony]

ya but when mine land it bounces and flyies evey wich way and parts get lost and broken :mad:

i dont know what to do about this: the suspention somehow keeps the body at an angle like its still accelerating my canties woble and my shocks suck roaly my body is just about trashed

would a 5-cell 200mah battery be safe to use for a rx pack?

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony
ya but when mine land it bounces and flyies evey wich way and parts get lost and broken :mad:


If this is the case, either you built the truck very poorley, or you are taking jumps that are WAY to big for the poor truck. (I'm really leaning towards case #1).

Take the truck apart, all the way apart, and rebuilt it step by step, making sure everything is perfect. You loctite like its going out of style. Rebuild the shocks, make sure they travel freely. Put some lighter springs on the shocks too, the factory ones are WAY to stiff. (Lost RED rear springs work good).

What kind of power are you running throught the truck? Motors? ESC?

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball


If this is the case, either you built the truck very poorley, or you are taking jumps that are WAY to big for the poor truck. (I'm really leaning towards case #1).

Take the truck apart, all the way apart, and rebuilt it step by step, making sure everything is perfect. You loctite like its going out of style. Rebuild the shocks, make sure they travel freely. Put some lighter springs on the shocks too, the factory ones are WAY to stiff. (Lost RED rear springs work good).

What kind of power are you running throught the truck? Motors? ESC?

I disagree. I had the same problem with the chassis leaning to one side. I fixed it by installing STIFFER shocks and higher weight oil. I still have all the articulation ( as you have seen ) but the chassis lean is gone.

[Anthony]

i have:
lrp f1 pro reverse
17 turn monsters of touring
jr xr2
futaba s9303 high torque
and various new era stuff
its kinda unlikely that i put it togther wrong i have taken it apart like 3 times its just the canties when they unload the swing to the frame and i think i found a fix for the front diff cover i took the old jugg one and i cant realy discrib it to you i found it on a web site mikes r/c or search monster trucks r/c and its should be the first one for web sites

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata


I disagree. I had the same problem with the chassis leaning to one side. I fixed it by installing STIFFER shocks and higher weight oil. I still have all the articulation ( as you have seen ) but the chassis lean is gone.

Didn't think of that. TORQUE ROLL!! can't help it really. But some 19T doubles in the truck with a stock tranny an EVX powering it.

The truck will almost to a barrel roll becuase of the troque. Can't help it. By installing stiffer shocks and heavier springs, you decrease the torque roll effect, but also make landings much more brutal onthe truck.

Fix a problem, create another one. :)

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony
i have:
lrp f1 pro reverse
17 turn monsters of touring


That confirms it. Too much torque, causing the cause to *tip* over under acceleration. Its normal, just go with it.. hehe

[Anthony]

it stays in its tilted posion after it has stopped moving

i made new "sway bars" out of an old metal hanger works ok but still flexes too much and how is that two-speed working out?

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony
it stays in its tilted posion after it has stopped moving

i made new "sway bars" out of an old metal hanger works ok but still flexes too much and how is that two-speed working out?

Are you asking me about the 2-Speed? The E-Maxx 2-speed is the only option in my opinion. The stock tranny has VERY weak gears (I went through 3 sets in 2 weeks). It took me about 3 - 4 months to blow an idler get in the Maxx tranny.

The shifter is a bit of work setting up correctly, but not that big of a deal. You just need to be creative.

Of course, you have to manufacter you're own tranny mounts, New Era and Ballistic Stupidity are advertising mounts, but they have yet to show a working model. I designed mine in 2 minutes, and then went to the mill and started cutting them out of a block of aluminum. Total time from start to finish was about 4 hours, only because it was the first time I did it.

I could crank out another set in about 30 minutes I bet now. Peice of cake, if I had a mill. Mines back in the states.

[Anthony]

while your there at the base you should see if you could get stock tranny gears made up it might reqire a 30-pk or a 40oz that seems like that could work:cool:

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony
while your there at the base you should see if you could get stock tranny gears made up it might reqire a 30-pk or a 40oz that seems like that could work:cool:

As good as the idea is, i'm no longer with a command that has a machine shop. There is another company down the road that has a machine shop, but the machinests are pretty much worthless. They couldn't make a simple nail without screwing it up somehow, and they are VERY lazy.

I'll just have to wait till I get back home, and then learn how to make them myself.

Oh, and I had a very good suspision that it you goto an ALL METAL gearbox, I think you had better run it wet. Meaning sealing the gear box, and filling it about 1/2 full of some type of oil to constantly oil the gears. I would probably go as far as machining a new case as well, and finding some seals to fit the output shafts (making longer shafts too). That would be a gearbox worthy of brushless motors.... Now the axles would be the next weak point though.

[Anthony]

iv e-mailed that idea to you a while back
when schools starts up agian its the first thing that he is going to help me with as for the case why bother added wight and all you need i silacone sealent goop it around the bearing shafts to prevent oil leakage and around the case
for oil i use a full tube (the little ones like 10 ozs) its black lithium grease real thick works wonders its slow in the begining butafter its warmed up the trans is a whole lote quiter

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball


Didn't think of that. TORQUE ROLL!! can't help it really. But some 19T doubles in the truck with a stock tranny an EVX powering it.

The truck will almost to a barrel roll becuase of the troque. Can't help it. By installing stiffer shocks and heavier springs, you decrease the torque roll effect, but also make landings much more brutal onthe truck.

Fix a problem, create another one. :)

HB, you've seen my truck. Its not made for jumping, just wheel dancing really. Took it outside finally. Went to a parking lot. You know those yellow cement baracades they use in parking spots to stop cars from parking too much forward? Not a problem with the stock motors.

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Anthony
it stays in its tilted posion after it has stopped moving

i made new "sway bars" out of an old metal hanger works ok but still flexes too much and how is that two-speed working out?

Try The dual rate springs from here (http://www.rcraven.com/shocksprings.htm)

I have them on my truck and love them.

[Anthony]

i acctuly like the stock moters better than the mod moters i fixed my suspention i got some of those brass servo spacers or some thing like that and replaced the original part(#MG1) no mare chassie flex:)

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata


HB, you've seen my truck. Its not made for jumping, just wheel dancing really. Took it outside finally. Went to a parking lot. You know those yellow cement baracades they use in parking spots to stop cars from parking too much forward? Not a problem with the stock motors.

OMG YOU GOT IT DIRTY!!! How could you!!??!?! hehehe

Yes, stock motors can crawl over anything... just don't expect them to win any races for you. :) Next order I put into tower hobbies I'm going to get me a set of Magnetic Mayhems to try out in my truck. Should be interesting.

Oh, and about getting dirty.. My TXT-1 is so thrashed and abused that I don't even worry about it anymore. Its a toy, and I play with it. Not a dust collector to sit on a shelf... Forget pretty, I want to break something!

[Anthony]

i bet my body is in worse shape than yoursiv done tons of things to it to day i jumped it and it hit a wall(the jump slid to on side)and the lower guarg brace and plastic plate bounced of the top of the wall and went back about a foot looked cool until i took the body off there were part mia and broken

is it ok for the front wheel hub (or any for that matter) supposed to wobble like the wheel it lose i got bearings in'em

to turn the comm would it be ok to do it on a fullsize lathe

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony
i bet my body is in worse shape than yoursiv done tons of things to it to day i jumped it and it hit a wall(the jump slid to on side)and the lower guarg brace and plastic plate bounced of the top of the wall and went back about a foot looked cool until i took the body off there were part mia and broken


Let me get this straight, you crashed it MIDAIR INTO A WALL? And your asking why your TXT-1 is falling apart? No comment.


is it ok for the front wheel hub (or any for that matter) supposed to wobble like the wheel it lose i got bearings in'em


NO! It wobbles? You need to take it apart and check things out, something is not right. Probably something to do with those walls you keep crashing into. :)


to turn the comm would it be ok to do it on a fullsize lathe

Yes, just be careful. You need to make sure you're spinning the comm and the right speed (RPM) and use the correct cutting bit. A full size lathe could destroy a R/C motor armature in seconds if you let it.

[Anthony]

the crash was not that bad it just hit the plastic guard no problem not going that fast i only crashed about three times kinda bad one only the links pop out quick fix
i looked through the manuel about puting the knuckle i did put it together right you can pull it back'en forth lik theres a washer missing

[Anthony]

when it hit the wall it was not going that fast i did put it together right it feels like its missing a washer it moves back'n forth

[jeepinator]

Originally posted by Anthony
it stays in its tilted posion after it has stopped moving

i made new "sway bars" out of an old metal hanger works ok but still flexes too much and how is that two-speed working out? Your sway bars are not sway bars at all. I don't intend to be mean, but have you ever bent a hanger?
Does it bend back?!
NO!
Your truck, for whatever reason, gets tilted over and pretty much stays there. You need to use material with more "springy" in it.
Wing wire has this property to some degree. You might try that. I have noticed a lot of hobby shops have a little rack with carboard tubes filled with various metal stock. This is where I buy my wing wire. Usually there is round stock of various thickness. Buy a few different sizes and experiment. They are like 2 bucks or something silly.

[jeepinator]

Who has played with their TXT-1 on sand dunes?

OMFG that is fun. I had one of those moments I used to have when RC was still new to me. Time stood still for 3 sets of battery packs. Then my rear diff grenaded :(

These were the soft 30 foot high kind with vertical faces and trippy contours. I was like a young kid on Christmas morning. At least until my truck broke. Then I was the same kid right after the teenage neighborhood bully stole his 1 day old bike :D

The good part, and something I just learned a few minutes ago, is that my diff is not ruined! WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!
All that hapenned was the 3 microscrews that hold the diff halves together backed out.
There is some chunkage and metal pieces, but she'll run again no problem.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by jeepinator
Who has played with their TXT-1 on sand dunes?

OMFG that is fun. I had one of those moments I used to have when RC was still new to me. Time stood still for 3 sets of battery packs. Then my rear diff grenaded :(


I was playing on the beach with my TXT-1. Very fun indeed, until the idler gear in my E-Maxx tranny destroyed itself. Thermo-nuclear-meltdown is more like it. :D

Seems the constant loading and unloading of power from the sand (100% traction one second, 0% the next) is VERY hard on the poor little gears. :) Luckily there cheap.

The thing I don't like about the beach? The messy cheapup afterwards. Talk about a pain in the arse! Have to damn near take the whole truck apart to get all of the sand out of it.

And welcome back to the thread Jeep, bout time you stopped by. :)

[Anthony]

Your sway bars are not sway bars at all.

i agree thats all i have for right now and even with the stock sway bar it stays at a tiltkinda pises me off

[Anthony]

The messy cheapup afterwards. Talk about a pain in the arse!

try compressed air and blow your problems away
ijust leave some of the dirt on it to show that it is not a frigel toy/truck

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony
The messy cheapup afterwards. Talk about a pain in the arse!

try compressed air and blow your problems away
ijust leave some of the dirt on it to show that it is not a frigel toy/truck

You going to buy my a compessor I can keep in my barracks room? :D hehehe

Actually, I found a small compressor for airbrushes at the local hobby shop, looks like a winner, but well on the pricey side.

its about the size of my R/C radio I guess. could work great.

[Anthony]

well they dont have a compresser on base are they nut what do they do use hand tools in the moterpool common every shop has some kind of air commpreser my dad has a huge 120gal vertical its like 7-8 feet tall

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony
well they dont have a compresser on base are they nut what do they do use hand tools in the moterpool common every shop has some kind of air commpreser my dad has a huge 120gal vertical its like 7-8 feet tall

Ok, so the weekends, I'll play with my truck, get it dirty and stuff, then throw it in my car getting my car dirty, take it all the way to the shop, charge up the air compressor (takes about 20 minutes) just to use 10 seconds of air to clean the truck off? Oh, I forgot the parts about getting the keys from the duty to get into the shop.... more excessive driving. 10 Minutes of fun in the sand, 2 hours of hassles to use 10 seconds of air. :)

Life in the Marine Corps my friend.

Hmmmmmmmmmmm.....

Having a small compressor handy would be much cooler. Useing the shops (which is locked up on weekends too) is really more trouble than its worth.

[Anthony]

how about air in a can those aka: ant hill blasters :)

and they have a refillable spray can for like 10 bucks other wise its worth it to get the hobby compreser or look into like "pankcake" compresers for like 200buck s and there good for around the house

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony
"pankcake" compresers

What the heck is a pancake compressor? First time I'm heard that term used.

I'll probalby just end up getting a *hobb* compressor, like the small ones used for air brushes. I want to get into air brushing too, so it will serve a dual purpose. :)

All this time an effort for compressed air. geesz.... :)

[junk4calata]

HB,

I've read good reviews about this compressor and its very quiet too. Jason has one and said he used it at night with others sleeping in the same room and didn't wake them up.

$90 compressor (http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.gsp?cat=4093&dept=5428&product_id=4021&path=0%3A5428%3A4093%3A3915%3A4338)

Or you could use what I use. Safe for electronics and cleans all dirt like a MF. Just keep it away from the body. Its so strong that it takes away a permanent marker off aluminum, yet would not damage the plastic. I've sprayed my receiver and ESC liberly, gave it about 2 minutes to dry ( usually 30 sec, but just to be extra safe instead of damaging $140 worth of electronics ). Never had a problem. It's highly compressed cleaning solvent. One can lasts about 2-3 clean ups unless its really filty, then I use the whole can. Its a little pricey but its also portable and cleans dirt real good, not just blows it away.

Blue Shower (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=6811389&St=2986&St2=-75331807&St3=68386823&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=10022&DID=7)

[Anthony]

a pancakr compresser is like a round air tank that has been squshed down to form a "patti" and i think its smaller than that 2 gallon one this one just has height i find a site for it after i get back from work

[JonDax]

Originally posted by junk4calata
HB,
Or you could use what I use. Safe for electronics and cleans all dirt like a MF. Just keep it away from the body. Its so strong that it takes away a permanent marker off aluminum, yet would not damage the plastic. I've sprayed my receiver and ESC liberly, gave it about 2 minutes to dry ( usually 30 sec, but just to be extra safe instead of damaging $140 worth of electronics ). Never had a problem. It's highly compressed cleaning solvent. One can lasts about 2-3 clean ups unless its really filty, then I use the whole can. Its a little pricey but its also portable and cleans dirt real good, not just blows it away.

Blue Shower (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=6811389&St=2986&St2=-75331807&St3=68386823&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=10022&DID=7)

It says you need a special business license or something to buy this stuff--what's up with that?

[Anthony]

well this is the style but its a bit large i would be talking about a 2gal not a 4 thats alittle too big dont know if i did the link right but here it is

http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=910861&prmenbr=6970

ok it does no problem:)

[Anthony]

Originally posted by JonDax


It says you need a special business license or something to buy this stuff--what's up with that?

i can get any cleaner i would need for this no problem i work for the school dept. over the summer and we have cleaners, strippers and any thing that pretains to cleaning

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

do you have to use aircompressor for airbrushing and cleaning? can you use air pumps that pumps air instead of ones that compress air into a can

[Anthony]

they pump air too slowly its for inflating tire and stuff like that not cleaning but some small compressers are fairly cheap go to a home supply store and ask them for there cheapest air tank air compresser and alco get a length of hose probly recoiling type and a nozzle/blower tip for the end

[Hairball]

So, uh.. anything TXT-1 related going on?

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball
So, uh.. anything TXT-1 related going on?

You beat me to this question. Well, I found out that an EVX ( finally got it back again ), 8T pinions, 72T spur, stock motors, and 30 seconds DO NOT go together.

[Anthony]

you have got to keep that drive shaft that is so cool

i going to go to 8 tooth pinions with the stock tranny would i break gears with 17 double moters?

and i finaly went mudding this weekend i was going trough water that went alittle past the whole tire in the puddle i have one tip if you do it seal the tires mine filled with water and lost tons of speed

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Anthony
you have got to keep that drive shaft that is so cool

i going to go to 8 tooth pinions with the stock tranny would i break gears with 17 double moters?

and i finaly went mudding this weekend i was going trough water that went alittle past the whole tire in the puddle i have one tip if you do it seal the tires mine filled with water and lost tons of speed

Its not cool, its extremely annoying. As for the 17x2 with 8T pinions, they have less torque then stock motors. Just don't do reverse/forward jerks. Also, will you be powering it with 7.2V or 14.4V?

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball
So, uh.. anything TXT-1 related going on?

Yea, I'm kinda thinking about selling mine since I have accomplished what i intended to do - Build a Torque monster.

[Anthony]

les touque how?:confused:

less turns more power right?
and i use 7.2v

well is cool how it twisted like that i have not twisted one yet

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata


Yea, I'm kinda thinking about selling mine since I have accomplished what i intended to do - Build a Torque monster.

How much? And why in the world do you want to sell something this cool? :)

Honestly, when I get back to the states, I'm going to be selling off most of my R/C stuff. My interests have changed quite bit. Flying is so much more fun then driving. :)

I'll keep the monster trucks and offroad buggies though. The on-road cars are getting sold. Oh, and the boat stays too, its just too fun to play with.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata


You beat me to this question. Well, I found out that an EVX ( finally got it back again ), 8T pinions, 72T spur, stock motors, and 30 seconds DO NOT go together.


Can you say "slipper clutch??" :D :D

My question is what would you have broken if you had steel drivelines in there....

[NitroRookie]

Is the stock TXT-1 an awesome R/C. If so I'll buy one for myself. Because I've always wanted to own A solid axle Truck. So all you agree that the TXT-1 in it's stock form is pretty cool. Right.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by NitroRookie
Is the stock TXT-1 an awesome R/C. If so I'll buy one for myself. Because I've always wanted to own A solid axle Truck. So all you agree that the TXT-1 in it's stock form is pretty cool. Right.

Depends on what your definition of *cool* is.

what is *cool* to one person might not be *cool* to another. :)

I think the TXT-1 is a great truck stock, but it really does need a few upgrades to make it worthy. Nothing too expensive though. Well, then again, expensive is also a relative term also.

Whats your budget look like, and how much are you willing to spend? I think thats what it all comes down to in the end.

[bluesy]

NotroRookie..... I haven't modded my TXT-1 at all....except for the sway bar retainers. I still get a real kick out of it every time I take it out. It's not a speed burner but it crawls over darn near anything. Plus I get great run times with the stock setup. Get one soon!!!!! You won't be dissappointed!!!!!

:cool: :cool:

[Hairball]

Originally posted by bluesy
NotroRookie..... I haven't modded my TXT-1 at all....except for the sway bar retainers. I still get a real kick out of it every time I take it out. It's not a speed burner but it crawls over darn near anything. Plus I get great run times with the stock setup. Get one soon!!!!! You won't be dissappointed!!!!!

:cool: :cool:

Ya, whats up with that anyway? A modded TXT-1 is a happy TXT-1!

I told you I'd build you an on demand 4WS system, long as you bought the peices!! :D And when I get back to the states, I'm going to start making E-Maxx tranny mounts and radio trays for the "Hairballs E-Maxx Tranny Modification Package"

it'll be fun and stuff. :)

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball


Flying is so much more fun then driving. :)




And unfortunatly a lot more expensive. But then again, like I say "work hard, play hard".

Your selling your on road cars, and I want to purchase a TC3 - :eek:

I still have the Micro and am junking the TLl01.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
And unfortunatly a lot more expensive. But then again, like I say "work hard, play hard".

Your selling your on road cars, and I want to purchase a TC3 - :eek:


Well, thats not entirely true. Helicopters are WAY more expensive, but planes can be cheaper if you don't go crazy.

I'm going to be selling two Xpress Pro on road cars (kinda like HPI Pro 2). Speed wise, they're just as fast as anything else out there, and can be tweaked to handle better.

Its just an *import* car(s), so not very popular.

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball



Can you say "slipper clutch??" :D :D

My question is what would you have broken if you had steel drivelines in there....


I honestly don't think I would break anything ( at least not that fast ). You know the characteristics of the EVX. Well I have the stock Tamiya shaft ( shorted rod ) in front. When I go full power backwards from a dead stop I have no problems. The other end still comes up in the air.

BTW, a FWD monster truck is kinda cool also when its fighting for traction. I know I would hate to be in it if it were in real life because it Toque Steers like crazy.

[Hairball]

Maybe its just time to ditch the EVX and get a Super Rooster...........?

[Fetztang]

hell yeah ditch the evx. my friend and his brotherwent trhough 2 evx's a piece. i have had my super chicken for like 2 years with no trouble at all except for when i get it wet but then it works great once it is dry. i tell my friend to get a super and he still wants to give the evx another go:eek: i tell him he is f*cking stupid but he dont listen
Brian

[Anthony]

Originally posted by junk4calata


As for the 17x2 with 8T pinions, they have less torque then stock motors.

how would they have more torque?
wouldent the 17 turn have more power than the stock?

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Anthony


how would they have more torque?
wouldent the 17 turn have more power than the stock?

Not sure how its actually possible. I just know that when I installed Speed gems 17x1 motors, I couln't go over obstacles that I had no problems with before. I verified that both motors where turning so a dead motor was not the case. The only explanation I could think of is the spring tension on the brushes.

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball
Maybe its just time to ditch the EVX and get a Super Rooster...........?

But I just got the thing. I think I will try it in my next project - wheelie buggie.


BTW, anyone have any idea when the new modeltech brushless motors will be available. I've been going to their site for the last couple of months and they seem to be having less and less info on there. It almost seems like the company is going out of business ( I hope not ). I give up on waiting for Novak to release theirs and Modeltech seem to put out more RPM per volt than what novak is posting on their site. I know Team Orion's set is out but lately their newly released products wind up being recalled for mass defects ( I wonder if their are related to FORD ) and I refuse to participate in a mass market trial and error game.

[NitroRookie]

If I get a TXT-1 it will mainly be used has a crawler.

What would you guys suggest for future mods for the TXT-1?

P.S. with the TXT-1 speed is not required if it's going to be mainly used for crawling and climbing. Please give a detailed description in your replies.

[jeepinator]

Originally posted by NitroRookie
Please give a detailed description in your replies. HEHEHE

What's the word for that?
Oh well...

The EVX positively sucks for crawling. With my Tekin I can control the truck down to just barely even moving (less actually). There is just huge resolution at the bottom end. It is smooth as butter. With the EVX you get this herky jerky, almost glitchy bottom end. I have confirmed this behavior on other EVX controllers. Reverse is even worse. Sometimes it "pauses" and then acts like nothing happened. Very weird. It's just a POS, simple as that.
I am investing in a SR pretty soon. I'll keep the EVX as a special applications controller, but it will prbably just collect dust until I come up with some crazy job for it. I also have two brand new 14 turn Reedy Sonics that will be going in. I bought 50 pair of Sonic brushes on eBay for $20 a few months ago. As I understand it, the Sonic line is dead now...
So, the setup will be a Super Rooster with two 6-cell packs in parallel running two Reedy Sonic 14 turn motors.
Should be a sweet setup. Now all I gotta do i buy a whole 'nother TXT-1 as mine is nearly shot. I am really despising the reliability and parts availablity of this kit. If it weren't so darn fun to play with, I would have thrown it in my rather huge RC graveyard pile long ago. I have done this to much better kits too. For some reason, there is a special appeal to the TXT-1.

[Hairball]

You really think the TXT-1 is junk huh? I remember when we all priased its quality and construction, and how good oh a kit it was.

Now we all ***** about things that break onthe truck most often. I think maybe your just playing with it too hard. Imagine a full size monster truck. Would you really put it through what we put ours through?

I think the TXT-1 is a true scale truck. Drives like one, runs like one, and breaks like one. :) may not be a good thing, buts it the truth. hehe

-Andy

[jeepinator]

Now did I say "JUNK" ?
Silly rabbit, trix are for kids!

[Hairball]

"I am really despising the reliability and parts availablity of this kit"

=

"junk" in simple terms. hehe

[Anthony]

Originally posted by junk4calata


( I wonder if their are related to FORD

or firestone

[Anthony]

i dont have speed gems cost too much for me i got trinity monsters of touring 17 t double i looks like it has about the same torque

[JeffHo830]

Hey guys, just want to say an early happy 4th of July for the people in the forum. Gonna be one of the drivers on the road for the holiday soon. :cool:

Jeff

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

hmmm... how do you hook up 2 battery packs parrely?
wouldn't they over heat because of the shorting?

[bluesy]

NMT......that diagram is right on. The proper polarities are in order. Just remember positive to positive and neg to neg===>no shorting===>no heat. All you will get from this setup is extended run time not higher voltage at the motors.

Hope this helps....

:cool: :cool:

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

but look! it's like shorting 2 cells appositively... only the cells are 6 cell batt!!!
don't you see what i am seeing???:D

[Hairball]

Shorting the batteries would be wiring positive to negative and vice versa.

Wiring positive to positive and negative to negative is called paralel wiring. It will work just fine, and give you increased run times.

I run two sex cell packs in my boat in parrallel without any problems.

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball

I run two sex cell packs in my boat in parrallel without any problems.


naughty, naughty. The "i" and "e" aren't even close to each other.

[Hairball]

Yes, but they are both hit by the same finger on each hand... hehe

I didn't even notice that. Hmmm, got up to early this morning. Damn USMC....

I think I'll just leave it that way too. Adds a little fun to the forum.

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball
Yes, but they are both hit by the same finger on each hand... hehe

I didn't even notice that. Hmmm, got up to early this morning. Damn USMC....

I think I'll just leave it that way too. Adds a little fun to the forum.

I understand, but I also had to since you were picking on me with my spelling. Also, you wouln't be able to edit it entirely since I quoted you. At most you could only change your post, but the quote would remain ( I think, not sure :confused: )

[Hairball]

True, true.

I didn't mispell the word though, I misused it. :D:p

[Hairball]

OK guys, need some help here.

Start playing with the TXT-1 today (crazy huh?) and after having to drop the tranny to re-tighten the sliper, I came to the conclusion that I don't like the way the TXT-1 is built.

Ball joints. Tamiya ones suck, end of story. Can anyone recommend a good aftermarket supplement?

Steering Tie Rods. I'm thinking some good old Titanium here. I remember a link somewhere, but can't remember it. PTwin - I think you can help here.

I *really* want to redesign the upper deck again. Still looking for a way to improve the ballence of the rig. I'm thinking about using TWO stock battery trays (Like Junk4Calata metioned awhile back) and building the radio tray on top of them. Any thoughts?

I'm also thinking aluminum catalevers are a must. The stock plastic ones just bother me.

And I want to dress the truck up a little. Probably gona buy some anodized nuts and bolts to spice up the truck a little. Probably get a custom body on there too, the stock one is showing its age.

Oh, and anyone have a Super Rooster they wanna let me borrow for awhile? The EVX is realyl starting to piss me off... :D

[Anthony]

kyosho 6.8 mm ball links
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXT404&P=7

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Anthony
kyosho 6.8 mm ball links
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXT404&P=7

HB,

I have those already ( and the balls that go inside them ). I can tell you from experience that you will need many lock nuts and bolts also.

On top of that they are actually longer than the stock tamiya ones by about 2.5mm each so you would actually lengthen your wheel base by approx 10mm overall.

And yes they are more durable and less flexible.

BTW, I've seen a pic somewhere on RCMT of a txt-1 with dual batteries on the side secured with velcro. Just another thought about reducing the "top heavy" tendancy.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata

BTW, I've seen a pic somewhere on RCMT of a txt-1 with dual batteries on the side secured with velcro. Just another thought about reducing the "top heavy" tendancy.

I saw that same pic, and was like, "WHAT THE HELL?"

I'm sure it lowers the CG quite a bit, but I don't like how unprotected the batteries are. Batteries are expensive.... :)

[junk4calata]

same ball end and balls but packaged together and cheaper. tower package (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXT472&P=7)

[JeffHo830]

Hey guys, the battery on the side was from System Bloodclod. He was trying to get the TXT to be a race capable MT.

Jeff

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by Hairball
OK guys, need some help here.

Start playing with the TXT-1 today (crazy huh?) and after having to drop the tranny to re-tighten the sliper, I came to the conclusion that I don't like the way the TXT-1 is built.

Ball joints. Tamiya ones suck, end of story. Can anyone recommend a good aftermarket supplement?

Steering Tie Rods. I'm thinking some good old Titanium here. I remember a link somewhere, but can't remember it. PTwin - I think you can help here.

I *really* want to redesign the upper deck again. Still looking for a way to improve the ballence of the rig. I'm thinking about using TWO stock battery trays (Like Junk4Calata metioned awhile back) and building the radio tray on top of them. Any thoughts?

I'm also thinking aluminum catalevers are a must. The stock plastic ones just bother me.

And I want to dress the truck up a little. Probably gona buy some anodized nuts and bolts to spice up the truck a little. Probably get a custom body on there too, the stock one is showing its age.

Oh, and anyone have a Super Rooster they wanna let me borrow for awhile? The EVX is realyl starting to piss me off... :D

HB, Unlimited Engineering (http://www.unlimitedengineering.com) has the ti steering links, as well as ti cantilever puchrods. They may not be listed on the site, but if you e-mail them or visit the Unlimited forum on MaxxTraxx, you can get info there. There's a 10% military discount on UE stuff also.

I use the Kyosho 6.8s. I busted my links in Korea and replaced them with the 1/8th scale stuff. No worries since. They are also the ends I'm using on my Thuggernaut. The UE steering links use 1/8th scale OFNA ends which do not require conical washers like the non-flanged Kyosho 6.8 balls.

The EVX rocks in an E-Maxx, where it's full-tilt boogie. In a crawler (TXT) you want more control. The best control I've had was with my Tempest Max, but I'm now using a Super Rooster. The slow-speed crawling abilities of the Tempest are nice. Super Rooster is 2nd, and EVX is lagging way behind the two.

Also...If you want to make your own links, check out my Thuggeranut thread in General Discussion. There should be enough directions in there to show you how to make some custom-length links.

Jason

[junk4calata]

Now this is a servo horn ( no servo saver thou )KYOSHO Z3042 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXTH12&P=7)

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

so you mean nothing would happen if i did this?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

sorry, forgot to attach...:o

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
same ball end and balls but packaged together and cheaper. tower package (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXT472&P=7)

Does this come with *everything* I've going to need? I keep reading about conical washers.. what the heck are those?

[Hairball]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
sorry, forgot to attach...:o

Ok, you're showing TWO dirrerent pictures here. This one, and the one on the last page...

And two different setups. in the most recent drawing, the batteries would short out and be destroyed. In the pervious drawing, the + and - terminals NEVER ACTUALLY TOUCH so you wouldn't be hurting anything...

look carefully, you'll see.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
Now this is a servo horn ( no servo saver thou )KYOSHO Z3042 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXTH12&P=7)

Looks like a Helicopter part.. hehehe

Aluminum arms are great, but also servo killers... And the servos we use are too damn expensive to take chances with.

I think Jeep messed up one of his nice Hitec servos by using a aluminum arm on it in the TXT-1. oops.

I'll stick to my black kimbrough servo saver, thank you. :D

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata

BTW, I've seen a pic somewhere on RCMT of a txt-1 with dual batteries on the side secured with velcro. Just another thought about reducing the "top heavy" tendancy.

But could you imagine a high speed encounter with a rock and your batteries? OUCH!!

Forget that...

[junk4calata]

I thing these are the best bet. I will be upgrading to them myself shortly. The problem with the original Kyosho ball ends is that they limit pitch travel of the ball end since the ball end sits right up against the chassis. These balls push the mounting point out.HPI 5.8 x 7mm balls (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXLT81&P=7)

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by junk4calata
I thing these are the best bet. The problem with the original Kyosho ball ends is that they limit pitch travel of the ball end since the ball end sits right up against the chassis.

So use the Kyosho 6.8 flanged balls (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXT407&P=7).

There's always an easy solution....:D

Jason

[Anthony]

are rocket city ball ilnks still around kevin in 4x4 put some on his ride and i cant seem to find them any where

as for ball links i really dont break them/strio them out as often as i use to after i put some 8 tooth pinions in nice and slow but it will pull and climb non stop


i cant even belive how weel this would climb with locked diffs

[ProjectTwin]

Tower shows Rocket City as discontinued...but here's their info

Rocket City R/C Specialties
103 Wholesale Ave. NE
Huntsville, AL 35811
(205) 539-8358

Jason

[Anthony]

do they distibute to any other store?

[Hairball]

Try some Helicopter dealers... I know Rocket City ball ends are still availible for Heli related stuff, so they have to still be in business.

A place to start -

www.heliproz.com

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

hmmm........

[ProjectTwin]

Problem with that diagram...voltage does not "flow", current flows.

Voltage is just the electromotive force, or EMF, that makes electrons flow.

Current is the movement of electrons. Electrons move from a less negative to a more positive.

Wiring the motors is series means that the same current will pass through both motors.

Wiring the motors in parallel will effectively cut your load in half, increasing current (in parallel, with equal resistors, you use the resistance of one resistor and divide it by the number of resistors). Too bad the load doesn't stay the same on a Clod. With a motor mounted to each axle, each motor will be under different amounts of stress. The motor with the highest stress (resistance) will bog down (higher resistance, less current flow), while the motor with the least stress (less resistance, more current flow) will speed up, just like an axle with an open diff. The side that is in the air will spin faster than the side that's on the ground. In series current is constant, but you have varying voltage drops across each resistor, depending on the resistance of the component.

In parallel, voltage stays the same, but current through each branch of the parallel circuit will depend on the resistance value of the component in that branch.




Jason

[Grant Tokumi]

Thats interesting. After thinking about Nmt Racer's diagrams for a few minutes, I realize they ARE the same. Second diagram (2 single cells with + to + and wire connecting - to -) simplifies what I think is the point he is trying to make. The circuit is actually closed. They won't short though, but it makes me think a little.

It won't short because the current has to travel backwards through one of the batteries to complete the circuit. Assuming current goes from + to -; In second diagram (simplified one), the left battery's current has to go backwards through the right battery to make current circulate clockwise. The right battery's current has to go backwards through the left battery to make the current circulate counter clockwise. They oppose each other so no current flow, and it won't short. I guess its sort of like connecting a water hose from one spigot outlet to the outlet of another spigot and turn both spigots on. Nothing will happen. No flow. Same thing in the batts.

What makes me think though is that it could be bad for batteries in the long run if hooked this way for extended periods of time (like storing for months). When backpacking, I used to reverse one of my batteries in my flashlight in order to prevent them from draining in case it got turned on during the hike. This made the circuit just like Nmt-Racer's second picture. This method worked fine during the hikes (no shorting). However, one time I forgot to turn the battery around to the normal position after I came back home. Around a month or so after the hike, I grabbed my flashlight, and noticed the batteries had leaked and spilled the messy acid into the flashlight ruining it. I concluded that the reversed cell was responsible for destroying the battery and never did it that way again. I now put tape between 2 contacts.

I do know from experience that hooking up 2 packs as you show in first diagram will work. It will give you longer runtime, and may even increase performance. Overall internal resistance of the batteries are reduced significantly when 2 batts are hooked together in parallel.

What your diagrams did make me realize is that it might not be a good idea to keep the batteries hooked up this way for extended periods of time. Disconnect the batteries before storing.

Umm... Excuse me while I go run home from work and check to see if my batteries are still connected together. hahaha.

[Anthony]

would that configureation over heat/over load/blow up the esc?

[Anthony]

Originally posted by Hairball

(don't hear about guys running them blowing tranny gears).

i was reading the begining and i passed by this:D

now what do you have to say

[Anthony]

Originally posted by Hairball

My plan now is to install an E-Maxx tranny (don't hear about guys running them blowing tranny gears).




forget the last post i was going too fast a deleted too much

[ProjectTwin]

The other, major problem with the last diagram, your batts plug into your ESC, not to your motors.

E tranny has a slipper in it, which reduces stress on the driveline.

Jason

[ProjectTwin]

Awww, heck!

I'm an idiot!

Those aren't motors, they're connectors...

For some odd reason, I thought the thing on top WAS the ESC..lol

N/M

Jason

[Anthony]

it took you a day to find that out :rolleyes:

well it sorta dose but not

and to this: whould i damage my esc if i were to do that? iv got an lrp f1 pro

[ProjectTwin]

yeah...sleep would be a good thing...See what happens when I post at 1am? ugh

Jason

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Anthony


i was reading the begining and i passed by this:D

now what do you have to say

Hmm, well....

Since I blew three sets of stock TXT-1 tranny gears in under a month, and it took me 5 - 6 months to blow ONE idler gear in the E-Maxx Tranny, I have some to this conclusion:

TXT-1 STOCK TRANNY SUCKS ***!!!

The E-Maxx tranny is far superior in quality, strength, and design. If I could jusity the cost of the derlin gears for the TXT-1 tranny, that may solve the problem, but the cost of those gears is FAR MORE than the cost of a complete E-Maxx tranny off of eBay.

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball


The E-Maxx tranny is far superior in quality, strength, and design. If I could jusity the cost of the derlin gears for the TXT-1 tranny, that may solve the problem, but the cost of those gears is FAR MORE than the cost of a complete E-Maxx tranny off of eBay.

plus the 2 speed advantage.

And, the tranny is $50 at RC4WD (http://www.rc4wd.com/store.html)

I bought another one and have no problems, plus it comes with everything that the ones on eBay ( for around $70 do ).

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata


plus the 2 speed advantage.

Yes, but the 2 speed is *fluff* in the TXT-1 in my opinion. Its nice, but I find that I use low gear 95.5% of the time. I rarely use high gear because at that speed (with E-Maxx titan motors) the TXT-1 is more prone to crashing, and resulting in breaking something.

I'm really thinking about ditching the shifting stuff to simplify my radio tray. For rock crawling, low is all I need.

If I want to go fast and do some crazy stuff, I get the E-Maxx out. Its cheaper to fix than the TXT-1 too. :D

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball


Yes, but the 2 speed is *fluff* in the TXT-1 in my opinion. Its nice, but I find that I use low gear 95.5% of the time. I rarely use high gear because at that speed (with E-Maxx titan motors) the TXT-1 is more prone to crashing:D

You'd use it about 50% of the time if you were to use a 7.2v ESC. I know.

[junk4calata]

I've decided to sell my truck. Most of you that are regulars on this forum already know what I have installed and that its the only one in the world like this ( with the 3way RWS ).

If anyone is interested, see link (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=89205)

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
I've decided to sell my truck.

Wuss. :D

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Hairball


Wuss. :D

Wuss, why do you say that? I told you a long time ago, I get more satisfaction out of building them than playing with them.

Besides I already have my next project picked out. Mad force.

[junk4calata]

HB,

You ever got a hold of the kyosho magnetic mayhams? Just curious how they compare torque wise.

[Anthony]

i was thinking about getting some but i had no idea which ones/s to get there are two kinds

[Hairball]

Originally posted by krisI.925
The TXT-1 can out perform the Maxx in everything except top speed and probably cornering.

Do you have an E-Maxx?

when you get the TXT-1 built and running, you'll want to change this statement. :)

The TXT-1 has a MAJOR COOL FACTOR, but the E-Maxx is designed better and stronger.

Don't get me wrong, I love my TXT-1, its just that it needs a TON of upgrades (and money) to make it *worthy* in my opinion.

Check out www.txt1.net It'll give you an idea of what I'm talking about.

-Andy

[Ronin1973]

what do you mean? what's wrong with it?

[TXT Crazy]

Sorry, I dont have any experiance with dual packs-15 Turn speed gems and 7 Cell HV matched 3000 pack is plenty for me. But I need money. Ok random sentence. Nice truck Hua your makin me jealous,