HPI RS4 Pro 3 Forum

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by corwin99
dood that ride looks tite! whens it due out? c'mon spill the beans :D

I knoooooowww nothing...wink wink...;)
DrTechno said it's just around the corner...:D

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
I knoooooowww nothing...wink wink...;)
DrTechno said it's just around the corner...:D

Its arooooooooooooooouuuuuuuuuunnnnnnnnd the corner but I can't say when because I know..hehehehehehe..

RCZ, save those short titanium turnbuckles......:D

Dr. Techn0
"Me going to Japan in a week".

:cool:

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by Dr. Techn0
Its arooooooooooooooouuuuuuuuuunnnnnnnnd the corner but I can't say when because I know..hehehehehehe..

RCZ, save those short titanium turnbuckles......:D

Dr. Techn0
"Me going to Japan in a week".

:cool:


You're goin to Japan!...lucky you... come back with lots of goodies:D

[sosidge]

Corwin - since you ask, I drive a 1.4 Civic! Very exotic... but at least it does about 40 to the gallon at 90...

Nice to see we're back on the Pro4 specualtion - it's been at least two months since the last round. I think HPI are building up to an autumn release myself.

And as for the Pro 3, considering how difficult it is to actually find one to buy now (in the UK at least, and probably in the US as well judging by how few online stores keep them), HPI are pretty clearly preparing a new car.

[corwin99]

Sosidge - nice... i used to have a civic.. traded it in for a sport utility. i dont think i'd ever go back, this thing tears through snow too good for me to ever want to worry about snow and snowtires again :)

Its not too hard to find one in Canada... parts are still fairly abundant. Will it be hard to find parts for the Pro 3 when the Pro 4 comes out? I think i'd still want to fix up the Pro 3... I'm sure it would still be fairly competitive on asphalt at the local club here.

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by corwin99
[B
Its not too hard to find one in Canada... parts are still fairly abundant. Will it be hard to find parts for the Pro 3 when the Pro 4 comes out? I think i'd still want to fix up the Pro 3... I'm sure it would still be fairly competitive on asphalt at the local club here. [/B]

Yeah, the Pro3 are still abudantly available here in the U.S. as well as parts. Besides, there's a ton of parts from different manufacturers worldwide so this means the car *needs* hop-ups. LOL.. I don't see the parts being discontinued very shortly since there will still be lot of racers with their P3. Do bear in mind the P4 may not be all that hyped up to be. The parts are totally different and so far none of the P3 parts except some screws (jokingly) will work. There will be yet another ton of new parts out in the market for this car. Some manufacturers are already into the designing phase of the hop ups. Again, I shouldn't even mention it because I know way too much already.

On a side note, the P4 drives nice but not as smooth with it's shaft drivetrain and is louder then usual. Oh, and the release date is *NOT* in Autumm, maybe in the U.K., but definately *not* in the U.S. and earlier in Japan. In fact, some drivers in Japanese tracks are already playing with the almost finalized version. Same here in the U.S. (wink, wink):D

Dr. Techn0

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by Dr. Techn0
.....Do bear in mind the P4 may not be all that hyped up to be. The parts are totally different and so far none of the P3 parts except some screws (jokingly) will work. There will be yet another ton of new parts out in the market for this car. Some manufacturers are already into the designing phase of the hop ups. Again, I shouldn't even mention it because I know way too much already.

On a side note, the P4 drives nice but not as smooth with it's shaft drivetrain and is louder then usual. Oh, and the release date is *NOT* in Autumm, maybe in the U.K., but definately *not* in the U.S. and earlier in Japan. In fact, some drivers in Japanese tracks are already playing with the almost finalized version. Same here in the U.S. (wink, wink):D

Dr. Techn0

Since the P4 prototype is based on TC3 components. The Cleveland version aside from the upperdeck is almost identical to the TC3... The TC3 will still leave the P4 in the dust... :D
A new version of the TC3 is in the works as well.. :D ;) ;)

[corwin99]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
Since the P4 prototype is based on TC3 components. The Cleveland version aside from the upperdeck is almost identical to the TC3... The TC3 will still leave the P4 in the dust... :D
A new version of the TC3 is in the works as well.. :D ;) ;)

Man maybe i'll just get a TC3 then.. pshhhht.

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by corwin99
Man maybe i'll just get a TC3 then.. pshhhht.

*hint* barracuda?

Dr. Techn0

[bionictony]

omg p4 is out in about a year? i just finished making my pro 3 look cool with aluminum, woven graphite and carbon graphite parts. where could i get a look at the p4? which tracks? looks like dr techno works for hpi or something haha.

[corwin99]

Originally posted by Dr. Techn0
*hint* barracuda?

Dr. Techn0

Those are nice... why do they all look so much like TC3's? Problem is they're hard to find out here and you gotta drop a ton of money to get one :(

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by bionictony
omg p4 is out in about a year? i just finished making my pro 3 look cool with aluminum, woven graphite and carbon graphite parts. where could i get a look at the p4? which tracks? looks like dr techno works for hpi or something haha.

You can see the P4 prototype here:
http://www.team-orion.ch/live/results-cars.asp?id=138#hpiproto

and no DrTechno..doesn't work with HPI..:) but lives close by the HQ.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by corwin99
Those are nice... why do they all look so much like TC3's? Problem is they're hard to find out here and you gotta drop a ton of money to get one :(

Cost no more than buy a FT-TC3...
http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/eshopping/shopexd.asp?id=1041

and they are available in 4 different colors.
THey all look like TC3's 'coz it's the car to beat!.. after 3 years the TC3 is still fast!
Take a look at the Tamiya Evolution-III...look familiar? :)

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
You can see the P4 prototype here:
http://www.team-orion.ch/live/results-cars.asp?id=138#hpiproto

and no DrTechno..doesn't work with HPI..:) but lives close by the HQ.
:D :p :D :p :D :p ;) :p :D :cool:

[corwin99]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
Cost no more than buy a FT-TC3...
http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/eshopping/shopexd.asp?id=1041

and they are available in 4 different colors.
THey all look like TC3's 'coz it's the car to beat!.. after 3 years the TC3 is still fast!
Take a look at the Tamiya Evolution-III...look familiar? :)

oi

is this rcmodel place good for shipping to canada and stuff? are they reliable?

i never even realized that the Evo III had the same layout... damn... so are these different colored barricudas the chassis that's the color or the aluminum parts?

[RC-ZOMBIES]

RcModel is safe and reliable. I've ordered from them more than a handful of times...I usually receive my items in less than 1 week. Shipping to Canada should be no problem.

The colored Barricudas are the aluminum parts. Probably better if you get the new Evo-III. alot better car. and all the parts will be available here in the state. :)

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
RcModel is safe and reliable. I've ordered from them more than a handful of times...I usually receive my items in less than 1 week. Shipping to Canada should be no problem.

The colored Barricudas are the aluminum parts. Probably better if you get the new Evo-III. alot better car. and all the parts will be available here in the state. :)

DITTO! ;)

[corwin99]

not to turn this into a non pro 3 thread, but i will anyway :p

which one is "better"..? probably all about the same, but better investment as to parts and cost and stuff, the AE Factory Team, The Evo III, The Barricuda, or wait for the Pro 4?

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by corwin99
not to turn this into a non pro 3 thread, but i will anyway :p

which one is "better"..? probably all about the same, but better investment as to parts and cost and stuff, the AE Factory Team, The Evo III, The Barricuda, or wait for the Pro 4?

It's not the car that wins...its the driver... as better car..hmmmm:confused: Barricuda..han't had a chance to see or drive one. THe Evo-III...I want one but may wait for the Hara edition P4 to be released. FT-TC3 still very fast after all these years. I have one. great product support nothing but the best from AE.

Another great car to consider is the Xray Evo2. DrTechno can tell you all about that car... :D

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES

Another great car to consider is the Xray Evo2. DrTechno can tell you all about that car... :D

:) shucks RCZ, you're making me blush....LOL. :D

Actually, the EVO 2 is one of the most tunable and drivable cars as of to date. The chassis is ultra stiff and I can't sleep at night without last touching this beautiful car. Ok, nuff about that since this is a "P3/4" forum. :cool:

Barracuda? very nice car indeed. Made by Alex Racing. The hop up are more expensive but if you get the top version, there's no need to upgrade.

FT-TC3? excellent car next to the EVO2. Was on my tail the whole time last night but I pulled away in turns after turns until it was a far distance behind me. :p Oh, and I own one too. :D

Tamiya EVO3? well, I was racing with Joven on Tuesday. He's the guy that won the TCS 2002 GT2 category. Awesome driver! Car is amazingly beautiful! second to the EVO2 in my opinion. I hope Tamiya picks him up soon or else, I'll offer him a job. :D

Losi XXXS? wow! my friend ran a hacker brushless last night and it hit the dot and flew 6 ft up in the air and landed two ft into a solid concrete wall 15 ft away! *OUCH!*. We stopped to see if the car was ok, unfortunately, we all have mistakenly thought the rear arm broke but then realized that the rear hinge mount broke instead and both rear arms was dangling, yet the arms was not even scratched. We sorta scratched our heads and continued. LOL

Pro3 Hara? aw shucks, RCZ knows way more about this car then me. He kicks buttocks with his and "blue *was* better!". LOLOL!

Dr. Techn0
P.S. All wienners, please move to the left.
:p

[bionictony]

dr techno where do you race at?

[superdriver]

I still like my pro 3 haha:D

[EMT^Racer]

Hi!

what gearing do u guys recommend for a pro3 using an orbital 2 probb 13x3, lrp f1 bullet and 2400s?

ive got a 116t and 108t spur that are both 64 pitch. im not racing competitively, but i just want the car to run good without overheating.

[sosidge]

something around a 32 with the 116 should give a fairly usable car.

[corwin99]

Man i was cranking turns last night on my Pro 3... and i noticed as i was looking at it closer, that the front wheel on the inside of the turn lifts up off the ground when its turning, is this good? or even normal??

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by corwin99
Man i was cranking turns last night on my Pro 3... and i noticed as i was looking at it closer, that the front wheel on the inside of the turn lifts up off the ground when its turning, is this good? or even normal??

That is normal at high speeds. If your not running a front one-way you loose alot of traction as a result. Power is transfered to the wheel with the least resistance ( the inside wheel that is off the ground. ) The opposite with one-ways.

You may want to try stiffer springs up front to lessen chassis roll or adjust you camber links. You want your car to run flat through the turns.. :)

[sosidge]

Try a stiffer spring on the rear as well - the inside front lifts partly because the outside rear is compressing too much as well.

Also try running more droop - again, keep a balance all round - most cars are set with the same amout of droop all round, or slightly more at the rear. More droop means more ability for the suspension to extend and keep the wheel on the ground.

[corwin99]

Thanks guys.. what kind of springs do you recommend for racing on asphalt? I was thinking about getting some of those HPI Pro-Linear springs.. do other springs fit properly, like Associated and Tamiya springs?

I tried adjusting my camber so the bottom of the wheels stick out a little more, does that make it lift less or more?

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by corwin99
Thanks guys.. what kind of springs do you recommend for racing on asphalt? I was thinking about getting some of those HPI Pro-Linear springs.. do other springs fit properly, like Associated and Tamiya springs?

I tried adjusting my camber so the bottom of the wheels stick out a little more, does that make it lift less or more?

Grey HPI pro-linear springs on all 4 works great on asphalt. If you're able to get the HB springs..they work even better.

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by corwin99
do other springs fit properly, like Associated and Tamiya springs?



Associated springs work with the pro 3, thats what I use. Don't know about tamiya.

About droop, how do you adjust that on the pro 3? Is that what the 2 holes on the bottom of the hub cariers are for?

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by S15Racer
Associated springs work with the pro 3, thats what I use. Don't know about tamiya.

About droop, how do you adjust that on the pro 3? Is that what the 2 holes on the bottom of the hub cariers are for?

The only way to adjust droop is by the length of the shocks. More droop longer shocks...shorter less droop ...

[sosidge]

Tamiya springs fit as well - but the best ones to use are the HPI's, because they have a slightly wider bore, so fit onto the shock ends better and are less likely to rub aainst the shock body.

[corwin99]

Originally posted by sosidge
Tamiya springs fit as well - but the best ones to use are the HPI's, because they have a slightly wider bore, so fit onto the shock ends better and are less likely to rub aainst the shock body.

Associated are a little bit smaller bore from what i've seen in the stats.. and tamiya's are bigger. by like tiny fractions of a millimeter tho... I think i'll go with the Grey HPI ProLinear's.

Yeah i lengthened my shocks a little bit last night.. man those damn things are SOOOO hard to get off the balls... and the ball cups for the turnbuckles are like impossible to get off without cranking them with pliers.. you guys got any tips for taking those things off?

Would running a front one-way diff be any good? those things are expensive... and from what i've heard sometimes they're good and sometimes they're not good.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Running one-ways are benificial if you're racing on high traction tracks. Let's you corner faster.

replace the stock purple ballend with #A137 balls and use a 3mm screw to hold them in.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM792&P=7

see what I've done to mine:
http://groups.msn.com/RCZOMBIES/pro35.msnw?albumlist=2

[corwin99]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
replace the stock purple ballend with #A137 balls and use a 3mm screw to hold them in.

So instead of removing the ballcups to do stuff u remove the screw? that's a pretty good idea. but then that means i have to remove these all to do it arghhh. i seriously had bruise fingers trying to get that stuff off man :\

if i start doing some major tweaking i might have to do that... and keep that in mind next time i slap together a kit.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

yes..You'll have to remove all and change..
You may want to change it anyways...the more you remove your shocks the more the plastic ball ends stretch - developing alot of slop.

[sosidge]

Got to say, I did the A137 mod myself, and I'm not all that impressed.

Yes, you stop stretching the plastic mouldings - but there's slop in the A137 balls anyway (on the upper shock mount position).

[EMT^Racer]

sosidge, thanx for the pinion :)

rc-zombies, did u have any problems with hpi's graphite upperdeck? ive heard that it tweaks the stock chassis when u tighten the rear screws :confused:
it sucks cos ive already got the purple rear brace and i cant get any other brands like invector or hb in australia.

oh yeh, does it take some time to get used to unscrewing the upperdeck for the batteries?

[sosidge]

If you run side-by-sides, and have small electronics, you should be able to remove the cells without removing the upperdeck (just takes a bit of wiggling).

Making the packs into a mini-saddle (i.e. a very short wire link instead of one battery bar) will make it easier.

[EMT^Racer]

haha well i only run stick packs and my electronics are big :(
oh well

[corwin99]

i run saddles and sticks... thinking about converting my saddles into sidexsides but then if i get a chassis that prefers saddles i can use them in both. I've got a TeamPRP upperdeck on the way.. i wanted to be able to stick in the packs without removing anything.

[bionictony]

another easier way to remove batteries if you have the hb and hpi upper deck is to just remove the two bottom servo screws, swing open the servo, and put in the batteries from the side.

as for removing the shocks, they're easy for me.. i use the little hpi wrench. stick it inbetween the shock and the ball end, and pop it out. be careful or else you'll scrape of the purple.

[corwin99]

Originally posted by bionictony
as for removing the shocks, they're easy for me.. i use the little hpi wrench. stick it inbetween the shock and the ball end, and pop it out. be careful or else you'll scrape of the purple.

could you explain that further? i'm not sure what you mean..

[bionictony]

ok.. take the hpi turnbuckle wrench.. one side is for the turnbuckles and the other is for hex stuff. take the hex side, put it between the shock and the purple ball end, and pull it back. thats the best i can describe it.. just try it and maybe you'll figure it out. when the top is off, the bottom is easy to pop off, let it hang upside down on the arm, and bend it away from the arm.

when reinstalling them, one hole is bigger than the other.. make sure the bigger hole goes in first so it'll be easier to take out next time.

[bionictony]

heres a pic of my pro 3. it has the hpi woven graphite chassis, team prp upper deck, everything else is just about aluminum and carbon graphite

[corwin99]

Originally posted by bionictony
ok.. take the hpi turnbuckle wrench.. one side is for the turnbuckles and the other is for hex stuff. take the hex side, put it between the shock and the purple ball end, and pull it back. thats the best i can describe it.. just try it and maybe you'll figure it out. when the top is off, the bottom is easy to pop off, let it hang upside down on the arm, and bend it away from the arm.

when reinstalling them, one hole is bigger than the other.. make sure the bigger hole goes in first so it'll be easier to take out next time.

okay i'll give that a try when i get homes from work :)

nice ride, by the way

[superdriver]

hey
Yeah I have a question what do those little things that you can put on the sides of your wing. They look cool but they usually fall off after the first race. I was wondering if they serve any really purpose. Thanks.

[sosidge]

The wing endplates don't serve much purpose - they're supposed to add a little stability, but the wing is shaped with vertical sides anyway.

[eliseracer]

nice car man

[corwin99]

I just stuck the foamy things to center the Battery Pack (side x side) in the chassis... i have the standard chassis and its a pain to try and squeeze the pack between the 2 spongey bits... is this the only way to keep the pack centered? anyone have any brilliant methods?

[S15Racer]

Hey guys. Just got back from practice night a the track. Man was it fun, this was my first opportunity to test might new parts and tires in a racing enviroment. The car was dialed in, I mean it was perfect! I'm sorry, I'm still a little giddy but thats just because my car has never really done that well at the track before. I was the fastest one there! Granted none of us were very good. But I was the only one not smacking the wall on a regular basis. I beat a TC3, XXXS, and a couple of tamiyas in our little unofficial heats.

BTW, RCZombies, thanx for the tire and insert recomendation, they work great. But you already knew that :)

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by S15Racer
Hey guys. Just got back from practice night a the track. Man was it fun, this was my first opportunity to test might new parts and tires in a racing enviroment. The car was dialed in, I mean it was perfect! I'm sorry, I'm still a little giddy but thats just because my car has never really done that well at the track before. I was the fastest one there! Granted none of us were very good. But I was the only one not smacking the wall on a regular basis. I beat a TC3, XXXS, and a couple of tamiyas in our little unofficial heats.

BTW, RCZombies, thanx for the tire and insert recomendation, they work great. But you already knew that :)

Great job S15racer...now you know what I
it's feel like when you can beat TC3's, XXXS and other with our Pro3's!

[Dr. Techn0]

LOL.. sorry but I had to say it........

"The underdog WINS again!"......

Congrats S15Racer!!!!:) :) :) :) :) :)

Dr. Techn0

[sosidge]

Corwin - slice the foam pads so they are half their original width on both sides, the pack will sit comfortably then.

[corwin99]

sosidge - thanks.. duh why didn't i think of that???

also.. just got a teamPRP upperdeck for the car... wow that thing takes away a TON of flex... there's a mount for caster braces on it.. what exactly do camber braces do besides look cool? the only thing i could see this doing is maybe reinforcing the caster?? to change the caster on the car you swap out the c-hubs right?

[sosidge]

The caster braces (made of an extra turnbuckle link) would be to keep the caster more constant during suspension compression.

Because the standard Pro 3 is a bit on the flexy side, the caster angle will change as the wishbones twist - the braces will help to stop that, and should make the car feel more direct on grippy surfaces.

BUT if you take a knock, there's a chance you will knock the caster braces shorter, which will change the caster and make the car handle funny (this happened when I tried the mod, but my turnbuckles were probably too short). They're also not geometrically perfect, so the caster angle won't stay constant during compression.

As an example, the Tamiya 414/TA04 has an option for caster braces - but Surikarn didn't use them to win the world champs.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

if you use the graphite arms and the graphite C-hubs... you won't need the caster braces..:)

[S15Racer]

Thanx 4 the support guys. :)

Can't wait to race for real on sunday:D

[corwin99]

S15Racer - go kick some TC3 butt ;)

RC Zombies - but its cheaper to just use caster braces :)

sosidge - thanks for the 411.. i think i'll just not bother with them... considering my modest driving ability i doubt i'll notice the difference :)

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by corwin99
....

RC Zombies - but its cheaper to just use caster braces :)

....

it is cheaper yes.... but also if you slam into a board too hard.. your whole front arm assembly is gone..arm and c-hub. a little of flex will help absorb those hard hits. :) that's why I no longer race with them on.

[corwin99]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
it is cheaper yes.... but also if you slam into a board too hard.. your whole front arm assembly is gone..arm and c-hub. a little of flex will help absorb those hard hits. :) that's why I no longer race with them on.

oi

maybe i'll just stay away from them.. the way i drive i probably won't notice. But i tested the car last night with the teamPRP upper deck and a new Race Prep Outlaw 27-R motor for the first time, I noticed a big difference in the cornering ability... but i also noticed that it doesn't lift the front wheels anymore on the inside of the turn.. could installing the upper deck reduce the amount of wheel lift on the front inside of the turn? I screwed down the springs a bit too because i dont have new springs yet.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

yes..the upperdeck will make the chassis stiffer letting the shocks do it's work. with the upperdeck..the chassis flexes too much and absorbs most of the bumps. and alot of flex in the turns as well.

[S15Racer]

yeah, the upper deck takes away most of the chassis flex, and the graphite main chassis should get the rest of it. With both the car is almost unflexible.

Speaking of getting rid of flex, and this is a little off the pro 3 topic, but I think I'll say it anyway. My friend just got a carbon fiber chassis for his TA04R and it flexes more than it did with the stock composite chassis. I can say this first hand cause I helped him build the car and I flex-tested it the day we built it. I keep telling him to make sure all the screws are tight and he swears they are. How can this be? Is carbon fiber less flex resistent than graphite, and for that matter a ribbed plastic chassis?

[DogBone]

Guys,

I am currently working on a Atsushi Hara Edition Pro 3 and was wondering if anyone else out there has one? I didn't buy as a kit so Im piecing it together a little at a time. Need suggestions for front/rear camber/caster so I can purchase the HB option parts for the correct setup.

Dog Bone

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by DogBone
Guys,

I am currently working on a Atsushi Hara Edition Pro 3 and was wondering if anyone else out there has one? I didn't buy as a kit so Im piecing it together a little at a time. Need suggestions for front/rear camber/caster so I can purchase the HB option parts for the correct setup.

Dog Bone

just buy mine and it will save alot of money and time:D

buy the following HB option parts:
HB60130 HB PRO3 ALUMINUM FRONT SUSPENSION MOUNT SET 1mm UP
HB60131 HB PRO3 ALUMINUM REAR SUSPENSION MOUNT SET 2.5

These are the latest arm mounts..let you adjust roll center. up or down.

[corwin99]

I was just noticing something... when i hook up my motor positive to positive, neg to neg, speed controller and battery pos to pos and neg to neg, my car goes backwards when i pull on the throttle... so i have my radio set to reverse mode...

first of all, why is it all backwards, is this normal? also, if i wanna put a schottky diode on my motor, do i put it in silver site positive, or do i put it on backwards because its going the other way?

[sosidge]

corwin - You need to use servo reverse quite often, it's not necessarily a bad sign - I assume you tried to set the speedo up again with the reverse switch in it's normal position? That may solve it.

Schottky diode has the silver band towards positive.

S15 - although the graphite plastic is weaker than graphite plate when the two are the same size and shape, the kit TA04R chassis is a tub - and tub chassis are stiffer than plate chassis. My understanding is that the HPI graphite plastic Pro 3 chassis is actually stiffer than the HB lower deck.

[jjl]

just fyi, I have a loaded HPI pro 3 on ebay, today is the last day of the auction, search for "ultimate pro 3 loaded"

[corwin99]

Originally posted by sosidge
corwin - You need to use servo reverse quite often, it's not necessarily a bad sign - I assume you tried to set the speedo up again with the reverse switch in it's normal position? That may solve it.

Schottky diode has the silver band towards positive.


Yeah i tried setting up the speedo again with the transmitter in the normal position... actually the first time i set the thing up it WAS in the normal position but it would always be backwards... it would brake when i hit the throttle, and it would move when i braked so that's why i reversed it. This never really concerned me until i thought about soldering a schottky diode on and i didn't wanna put it on backwards because it seemed like the motor was going backwards.

[Philly's Finest]

You guys know where I can buy a pro3 online new in box? can't seem to find one.

[corwin99]

Originally posted by Philly's Finest
You guys know where I can buy a pro3 online new in box? can't seem to find one.

www.greathobbies.com in Canada has 'em for $199.99 CDN.. whic is like $130US or so... and if u buy the kit u get $10 off any motor and Radio you buy.

[DogBone]

Corwin,

Are you using an adjustable endbell or a fixed/sealed endbell motor (modified or stock). If modified then just turn the endbell 180 degrees from the current position. This will save you from having to re-solder the wires. I made a mistake like this at the start of a race and when they dropped the flag the car went in reverse! Funny! So instead of unsoldering the motor I just rotated the endbell and everything was fine. Got back in the race and finished 4th. If it's stock, well, you already know you can't adjust the timing so soldering is the only thing you can do.

Dog Bone

[corwin99]

Originally posted by DogBone
Corwin,

Are you using an adjustable endbell or a fixed/sealed endbell motor (modified or stock). If modified then just turn the endbell 180 degrees from the current position. This will save you from having to re-solder the wires. I made a mistake like this at the start of a race and when they dropped the flag the car went in reverse! Funny! So instead of unsoldering the motor I just rotated the endbell and everything was fine. Got back in the race and finished 4th. If it's stock, well, you already know you can't adjust the timing so soldering is the only thing you can do.


The motor currently in it is rebuildable, but It seems odd to me to have to flip it backwards... and then i'd get confused because the + - signs on the endbell wouldn't be right. I tested it with some sealed endbell motors by holding the magnets against each other... and its not installed backwards either.. so i dunno... i guess i'll just reverse the throttle.

what i don't get is why wouldn't you reverse the way the schottky diode is put in if you reverse the current?

[S15Racer]

Now that I've seen how my pro 3 handles with full time 4WD, I'm considering adding a one way. How does running a one way diff affect the handling as opposed to a one way pully and vice versa? Or for that matter, how does running one or the other compare to running both?

[sosidge]

The one-way's make the car much more responsive on the steering, especially off-power, although on some grippy tracks they can be a bit quicker. With the diff, you get a little more pull out of the corners because the front end starts to act like a solid axle.

The diff has a stronger effect than the pulley (with the pulley, you still have a front diff which adds a little stability off-power). The two combined adds a little efficiency.

Of course, braking is out of the question, because the rear wheels are the only ones that are braking - rather like a handbrake turn.

My advice would be to try one (if you're on a grippy surface, although people don't generally use them on carpet with foams because there's too much bite from the tyres), and see what you think. Personally, I've yet to get along with one in the Pro 3 - I think I can turn fast laps from time to time, but I lose confidence in the car if I lose the rhythm or come up against another racer.

[S15Racer]

Just got a one way pully off ebay. I'd say I did pretty good for $27.54, considering its $31.99 on tower, or something like that. If the transaction goes fast enough, I should be able to practice/race with it on saturday and sunday. I was just wondering, how does the pullt attach to the gear shaft if it doesn't use the cross pin?

[DogBone]

Dont mean to be sarcastic but you answered your own question. The Drive pully held in place by the pin comes off and the one-way slides onto the shaft in its place. Its held in place by a C-clip. Just a bit of advice. The grease is a little heavy for the one-way. Use one drop of bearing oil for each side of the pulley. This is enough to lube it and prevent it from wearing out. Or you can go the expensive route and use microlon if it's available. Keep in mind this is a totally different animal than what you may be used to running. I use both one-ways and I dont ever brake! I let the car roll through the corner with out loosing too much speed so I can get back on it without using too much juice. If you want to maximize I suggest using a large capacitor on th speedo to hold some power in reserve for this purpose if you aren't doing so already.

DogBone

[DogBone]

Originally posted by corwin99
The motor currently in it is rebuildable, but It seems odd to me to have to flip it backwards... and then i'd get confused because the + - signs on the endbell wouldn't be right. I tested it with some sealed endbell motors by holding the magnets against each other... and its not installed backwards either.. so i dunno... i guess i'll just reverse the throttle.

what i don't get is why wouldn't you reverse the way the schottky diode is put in if you reverse the current?

Corwin,

You had better reverse the diode if you reverse the current. If not you'll pop alot of schottky diodes.

Another idea behind your poblem and this is something that I have seen from time to time. It's rare but it happens. My guess is that the armature was wound backwards. If this is done it will have the same effect. You pull the motor straight out of the box, hook it up, and it goes in reverse despite it shows positive/positive and negative/ negative hook up. In this case you have to resolder the wires. Even if the schottky is installed it would pop eventually because its designed to do so to prevent your speedo from blowing. In the event you are running at high speed and come to a screeching halt because of a crash the energy has to go somewhere. These things don't have grounds on them so it basically retraces its steps (back to the speedo) So if it's installed correctly it will pop the schottky before it melts the speedo. I wouldn't worry too much with a stock motor since the amp draw on them is low. A modified motor that has a high amp draw would be more of a concern. Most motors I run have between 1.5 and 3.5 amp draw (stock) and my biggest modified which is a 6x2 draws 11 amps at 4.8 volts. I dont know what the max draw is because my checker is only rated at a max of 11 amps. Anyway something to think about.

DogBone

[corwin99]

tx dogbone, but i figured out what was going on... for some odd reason the speedo i was using just does stuff backwards.. it mixes the throttle response so i have to reverse it at the radio... no biggie.

i popped a new motor in it recently but i'm not going to do to many more upgrades to it.. might get the bigger motor mount. I am getting ready to pick up a new boat and MT its getting too darn wet to race this thing.

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by DogBone
Dont mean to be sarcastic but you answered your own question. The Drive pully held in place by the pin comes off and the one-way slides onto the shaft in its place. Its held in place by a C-clip. Just a bit of advice. The grease is a little heavy for the one-way. Use one drop of bearing oil for each side of the pulley. This is enough to lube it and prevent it from wearing out. Or you can go the expensive route and use microlon if it's available. Keep in mind this is a totally different animal than what you may be used to running. I use both one-ways and I dont ever brake! I let the car roll through the corner with out loosing too much speed so I can get back on it without using too much juice. If you want to maximize I suggest using a large capacitor on th speedo to hold some power in reserve for this purpose if you aren't doing so already.

DogBone

Okay, i understand that the pully slides on and is held by a C clip, but what keeps the pully from just spinning losely on the shaft.

Thanks for the advice about the grease, I'll do that. And I have a GT7 ESC which includes the capaciter so I should be good there.

The track I race on is pretty open, I dont even use the brake with full time 4WD, just let off the throttle and use the steering to scrub off speed.:)

[corwin99]

Man i was racing my car around last night for the first time on a 14T motor I just got, damn that thing is fast and handles pretty good too... i'm still i little heavy on the trigger and i spin it out too much.. i think i'll adjust the current limiter on the esc a bit. But check this out.. i was just running it then suddenly it stopped and the motor revved... and i thought the pinion might have slipped off, its happened before on other cars when i forgot to tighten the pinion enough... but turns out the damn spur gear came off at the center screw.. the one that screwed into the metal shaft.

i was wondering should i put like some loctite on that thing or what?... that's how i remove the spurt gear to replace the motor... instead of undoing the 4 screws that hold it to the hub, so i dont strip that hub so soon even tho it comes with 2 and i'm too cheap to dish out for the aluminum right now i'm saving up for a truck... still dont know which one tho :)

[sosidge]

Corwin - use a little threadlock on that screw - if you use blue stuff it will still come loose if that's your preferred way to pull off the spur gear (although I don't know why you're taking it off to change the motor...)

S15 - The one way bearing is designed to run freely in one direction, then in the other direction the rollers grip the layshaft and keep things solid.

[corwin99]

Originally posted by sosidge
Corwin - use a little threadlock on that screw - if you use blue stuff it will still come loose if that's your preferred way to pull off the spur gear (although I don't know why you're taking it off to change the motor...)

Both the screwdrivers that i have are multi-bit drivers.. and electric... so they don't reach the lower motor mounting screw without removing the spur gear and kind of contacting the screw at an angle. I need new screw drivers :) That's why i remove it.

ARGHHH.. i can't drive without losing something it seems these days. last night i lost my front left wheel! I didn't check the wheel nuts before going out and one must have loosened. so i spent 10 minutes with a SureFire Flashlight (good thing it was a surefire) in the dark looking for my wheelnut and hex bar holder thingy.

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by sosidge
Corwin - use a little threadlock on that screw - if you use blue stuff it will still come loose if that's your preferred way to pull off the spur gear (although I don't know why you're taking it off to change the motor...)

S15 - The one way bearing is designed to run freely in one direction, then in the other direction the rollers grip the layshaft and keep things solid.

O OK, thanx for clearing that up.

and about the spur gear, sometimes its just easier to get motors in and out if its out of the way.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Looks like HPI might be releasing the Pro3.5.
Car was seen at the Nurmburg Hobby show in Germany.

it's probably too little too late to revive the Pro3. :(

[dgrobe2112]

Do you think they will release that here in the US?? Will it come with the carbon fiber or not?? Is there a price set yet?? where did you find that?? That looks like the Hara Edition.. Zombies, have you sold your Pro 3 yet??

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by dgrobe2112
Do you think they will release that here in the US?? Will it come with the carbon fiber or not?? Is there a price set yet?? where did you find that?? That looks like the Hara Edition.. Zombies, have you sold your Pro 3 yet??


no word yet on release or price if ever. and it should come with the HPI CF chassis. HPI was proposing this version from the old HPI forum. The Hara Edition is more option parts than this car.

and Yes..sold the Blue Pro3:( for a hefty sum $$$
I still have the purple...and that too is up for sale shortly... tentatively... a ton more option parts on it than my blue one. I'll probably ask alot more for that car.

[S15Racer]

OMG is HPI acually taking our advice, or were they planning this the entire time.

BTW How much did the Pro 3 go for Zombies?

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by S15Racer
OMG is HPI acually taking our advice, or were they planning this the entire time.

BTW How much did the Pro 3 go for Zombies?

Pro 3 sold for alot..it was enough to buy a XRAY EVO2 w/C-hubs (used but in new condition) and some option parts!

I already have a buyer interested in the MY PRO3.5 as soon as I take some pics and take inventory of all the option parts included in it... still haven't made up my mind to sell it or not.. car is practically brand new. Hasn't even touched the track yet. :)

[emaxxgo]

is the pro 3 able to handle brushless power?

if not what would i have to buy for it to handle it?



thanks

Alex

[GA Maxx]

erm it sould but ive heard brushlless motors eat belts

[jjl]

I have a nice pro 3 for sale on ebay, just search for "ultimate pro 3". Only one day left for the auction. check it out, it's still priced low.

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
Pro 3 sold for alot..it was enough to buy a XRAY EVO2 w/C-hubs (used but in new condition) and some option parts!

I already have a buyer interested in the MY PRO3.5 as soon as I take some pics and take inventory of all the option parts included in it... still haven't made up my mind to sell it or not.. car is practically brand new. Hasn't even touched the track yet. :)

A lot? Ok I wont persue that one anymore;)

I thought you were going to race your Pro 3.5 this season. i guess you'd race the evo 2 in its place. I would want to buy it, but I've got very little mula right now. Besides, I'm growing increasingly interested in a tamiya F1, the F201 I think it is. Is there a forum for that car on here?

edit: Oh there it is:D :rolleyes:

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by S15Racer
A lot? Ok I wont persue that one anymore;)

I thought you were going to race your Pro 3.5 this season. i guess you'd race the evo 2 in its place. I would want to buy it, but I've got very little mula right now. Besides, I'm growing increasingly interested in a tamiya F1, the F201 I think it is. Is there a forum for that car on here?

edit: Oh there it is:D :rolleyes:

I was going to race the Pro 3.5 but after DrTechno convince into getting the Evo2. The car is very fast out of the box! It may cost more..but it is worth every cent.
Hope to have some pics up soon on my MSN album later this week.

I think there is...if not go start one..:)
I just finish mine with the Cross CF chassi, aluminum shocks etc.
the car is slow but fun to drive. we have form spec class and race with spec 19t motors. check Formula one RC. at:
http://www.formula1-rc.com/
also check rc-tech.net....very active F201 forum there.

[S15Racer]

Hmm, acually now that I look at the specs on the F201, I'm losing interest. I don't like the gear diffs and the oddly sized wheels. Plus I don't really feel like shoveling more money for a new ESC and radio system. :(

On to a brighter topic, I've been thinking about that Evo 2. Heres what I would do if I had one. 12 cell battery pack, 2 turn Hacker brushless w/esc, geared as tall as you could get it, sound fun?

:D :D :D

About bl in a pro 3- Maybe, but you'd probly have to get longer cvds cause the stock ones are too short and a bl would tear the out drives apart in a second. You'd probly also want aluminum bulkheads and any other chassis strengthening you could get.

[jjl]

hurry, only one hour left on my ebay auction for my totally hopped up pro 3, search under "ultimate HPI pro 3", still priced low.

[corwin99]

Originally posted by S15Racer
About bl in a pro 3- Maybe, but you'd probly have to get longer cvds cause the stock ones are too short and a bl would tear the out drives apart in a second. You'd probly also want aluminum bulkheads and any other chassis strengthening you could get.

excuse my ignorance, as i've never used a BL setup, but why would you have to get longer CVDs and why would it tear the outdrives apart?

couldn't you just plug a Hacker C40 where your 'ol speedgems was and hook up the BL ESC and stick it in there and just run it? They don't see like a bajillion times more torquey, at least not from the paper stats... rpm's wouldn't tear outdrives, but torque might. i dunno about belts tho.. do belts handle BL well?

btw, i hope rc-zombies doesn't mind me mentioning this, but if u really want to find out how much the car went for you coudl just look it up on ebay. and yeah it did sell for a lot.. i think that's the highest i've ever seen a pro 3 chassis go for on ebay.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by corwin99
....

.....

btw, i hope rc-zombies doesn't mind me mentioning this, but if u really want to find out how much the car went for you coudl just look it up on ebay. and yeah it did sell for a lot.. i think that's the highest i've ever seen a pro 3 chassis go for on ebay.

nope I don't mind...:)
I have an offer for my purple one...and it's more than what the blue one sold for. :D

[corwin99]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
nope I don't mind...:)
I have an offer for my purple one...and it's more than what the blue one sold for. :D

hwah! that's alot.. .especially in Candian dollars... exchange rate is great for selling, but sucks a bit when we're buying :(

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by corwin99
excuse my ignorance, as i've never used a BL setup, but why would you have to get longer CVDs and why would it tear the outdrives apart?

couldn't you just plug a Hacker C40 where your 'ol speedgems was and hook up the BL ESC and stick it in there and just run it? They don't see like a bajillion times more torquey, at least not from the paper stats... rpm's wouldn't tear outdrives, but torque might. i dunno about belts tho.. do belts handle BL well?

btw, i hope rc-zombies doesn't mind me mentioning this, but if u really want to find out how much the car went for you coudl just look it up on ebay. and yeah it did sell for a lot.. i think that's the highest i've ever seen a pro 3 chassis go for on ebay.

You would need longer cvds because the stock ones are too short and break the out drives. Ok, how can I explain this....
It's like using a pair of pliers, I know that sounds weird, but bare with me. When using pliers, is it easier to compress them by gripping the ends of the handles, farthest from the hinge, or to compress them by squeezing the part of the handle closest to the hinge? The ends are easier aren't they? This is because of leverage. Its the same way with the out drives, since the crosspins on the cvd bones don't penetrate far enough into the out drive, it is easier for them to break it because they have more leverage against it. If the cvds were longer, they would be pushing against a part of the drive that was stronger and they wouldn't have as much leverage. I don't know if that clears it up any, or if it just makes it worse. But the fact of the matter is that longer cvds will lead to less breakage in the outdrives, so there:D

As for bl motors, yes they do have a lot more torque than brushed. I think its because of the neodynium magnets, which are way stronger than the ferrite magnets in brushed motors.

And I suppose I could look on ebay, but I'm too lazy, besides, it would probably just give me a better idea of how out of reach another car is for me right now:(

[corwin99]

Originally posted by S15Racer
As for bl motors, yes they do have a lot more torque than brushed. I think its because of the neodynium magnets, which are way stronger than the ferrite magnets in brushed motors.

And I suppose I could look on ebay, but I'm too lazy, besides, it would probably just give me a better idea of how out of reach another car is for me right now:(

Simple Machines.. the lever.. i learnt that in.. grade 8? wow that was a long time ago.. actually leverage was the simple machine project that my group did :) i was just thinking about it the other day and telling my g/f about it.. hehe.

Neodynium Magnets... wonderful things they are.. i love how they make the treble so much brighter and the hi-hats in my music sound like their jumping off my head on my klipsch speakers :)

The pro3 has a plastic thing that goes around the outdrives to relieve the stress of the cvds on them doesn't it?.. has someone actually broken the outdrives on a Pro 3 before with a BL setup? Cuz i'm thinking if the CVDs are much longer, wouldn't it hit the inside of outdrives or somethign when the shocks compress? I'm not looking at my pro 3 right now, so i could be wrong.. just seems odd that they would make the CVDs shorter than they needed to be and as a consequence weaker than they could be without much effort since CVDs come in so many different sizes.

Couldn't you set a current limiter on a brushless esc to remedy the situation with the torque? again, i dont own one so i dont know if they exist... have you installed a BL in yours before?

[corwin99]

I'm finding that the standard Futaba 3003 servo isn't as quick as i'd like it to be.. or at least that's what i think.. it seems a little weak too. Anyone suggest anything better for my Pro3 or is a standard servo pretty good already? I've been kind of reluctant to spend $75 on something that comes basically free with my radio and that i have 4 or 5 extras of... but if i'm going to see a huge difference i think i might get one.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Anything is better than the Futaba 3003 servo. just too slow.
I have the Futaba 9450 and 9550 digital servos..simply the best.

[corwin99]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
Anything is better than the Futaba 3003 servo. just too slow.
I have the Futaba 9450 and 9550 digital servos..simply the best.

okay so what's a digital servo? i see them all the time but dont have a clue what they are... do i need a specific voltage of BEC on my esc to run them? do i need a specific receiver?

i just use plain 'ol 2PHKA's... i might get a JR XR3i...

[sosidge]

Digital servo's are totally compatible with regular radio gear - they just use digital technology inside to improve performance (i don't really want to explain how they work, too wordy)

[kameleonmn]

Hey all...i'm kinda new in this forum stuff, but have been reading it for awhile...i bought my pro 3 a while back (have it for 2 months now) and love it...this thing is pretty good on the carpet track where i'm from. But i got a question...what parts do Cross make for the pro 3...and where can i get them?...The Jet racing parts are to boot too for my pro 3, I got the upper deck and it rocks when you're swappin packs. So far i've got the aluminum rear brace from HPI, the quick change spur gear hub, and the aluminum middle shaft mount. I'm lookin to get the alum. front bulkheads. Also, are there better and stronger outdrives?...the originals are kinda weak. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. :D

Its just cool that i'm the only one that runs a pro 3 at my track.

[S15Racer]

I too, am the only pro 3 at my track, it's fun cause most people (around here) haven't ever seen one, so I get a lot of complements on it, the graphite and aluminum probably don't hurt either:D I don't think anyone makes stronger outdrives for the pro 3, but there is a company that makes longer cvd bones for it. I thinks its Titanium Racing, or something like that.

[kameleonmn]

thanx S15...i guess that'll have to do. BTW, i'm lookin to get the alum. hex hub clamp type for my pro 3...does anyone know where i can get them?...i've read somewhere that you can only get them exclusively thru buy hpi only, but am hoping that someone knows where else to get them. I'm also anxious to see what the pro 4 will look like. Til then i'm happy with my pro 3.:D

[*Miller*]

Hey. I have some money to spend on a motor... My LHS isnt too well stocked, its only a small town. They have a Team Orion Core Touring 11t (I think its 11t). Is this a good motor to buy? It is £55. I have a TO 27t stock at the moment, so I know the new motor will be a LOT faster than my current one. Do any of you use this motor? In your Pro3? Any opinions welcome please.

Btw, I know there are probably a lot better motors on the market, but the LHS cannot carry much, and it takes a long time to get stuff ordered in. :)

[sosidge]

The Core's are very good motors - the only thing is, the BRCA limit is 12 turns, so you wouldn't be allowed to race in the modified class at certain events (most club meetings are open though).

[*Miller*]

Im not going to be racing officially. So this motor is good? :)

[corwin99]

the only thing i would be concerned about is the maintenance on a 11t motor.. when you start getting that low it will require new brushes and truing the comm more often.. and that's a pain in the butt.

alot of companies make aluminum clamp style hex hubs.. whether they make purple or not i dont know... I believe Yokomo and Associated make blue annodized ones, not sure if they will fit the pro 3, as Associated has a different size bar thing i believe.

[the_yawn]

Hey guys, I need some help. I was tightening my ball diff in my pro 3 when I suddenly heard a snap. I thought nothing happened, so I just went out and ran it, but the rear left wheel does not turn. So I took the diff out, and tried to figure out what happened. When I tried to turn the screw on it, nothing happens. I can't take it apart, but I can pull the diff partially apart. (Like I can see the balls) Should I just throw the whole thing away or is there a way I can fix it? I am really frustrated.

[kameleonmn]

Well, i just got the alum. front bulkheads, alum. middle shaft mount, and alum. steering arms. Hopefully i'll be able to show my car to the rest of you. I'm still lookin for the alum. clamp type hex hub for my pro 3 tho. I've tried BuyHPI but that part of their site is down. Ricky's RC doesn't stock them, from what i've tried to researched, so i guess i'll do some more lookin around the net. Well, got another race comin up this sat. I actually get some people who ask me what kind of car i'm racin with...it's funny. :D
Right there on my foam bumper is a "RS4 PRO3" sticker.

[sosidge]

the_yawn - sounds like part of the tightening mechanism has broken - maybe the screw, maybe the nut, maybe the plastic piece the nut mounts in. If you can pull the diff partially apart, you can probably get it all apart - no need to buy a new diff (they don't come as a whole set anyway, unless you buy an HB diff) - just work out which bit is broken and replace it.

[*Miller*]

Originally posted by corwin99
the only thing i would be concerned about is the maintenance on a 11t motor.. when you start getting that low it will require new brushes and truing the comm more often.. and that's a pain in the butt.

.

Ah yeah, thats true. How many runs would it be before maintenance would be needed? :confused:

[Rdub202]

ne one knw when the pro 4 is coming out??????

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by Rdub202
ne one knw when the pro 4 is coming out??????

Not for another 6 months or more. Look for it end of summer or fall.

[dgrobe2112]

Maintenance in an 11 turn motor.. your looking at needing to cut the come after every 4 or 5 runs..

Zombies- are there any places to see what the Pro 4 will look like??

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by dgrobe2112
Maintenance in an 11 turn motor.. your looking at needing to cut the come after every 4 or 5 runs..

Zombies- are there any places to see what the Pro 4 will look like??

Not the actual production version. You can see the prototype that was seen at the Cleveland race. There are probaby a link here somewhere or visit the Orion webisite and look for it in the news section. :)

or close your eyes and visualize the TC3..but in purple.:D

[S15Racer]

I don't like the idea of the pro 4. HPI is basically throwing away all the unique concepts behind the pro 3 and just copying off of someone else's cough...OLD...cough design. The pro 3 was a totally new design and could have worked with a few minor changes.

Here's what I think the pro 4 should be- Graphite upper and lower decks, similar to the pro 3's. Same superwide diffs and driveline setup. Pivot ball suspension with upper and lower A-arms instead of the flexible H-arm/upper link design. And most importantly, a rear bulkhead section with the motor plate integrated into the rear assembly, since this is a major cause of flex in the rear section. Sound good?

[*Miller*]

Originally posted by dgrobe2112
Maintenance in an 11 turn motor.. your looking at needing to cut the come after every 4 or 5 runs..


Ouch. So, I should perhaps look for the same motor but with a higher turn then?

I dont have the means to cut my comm, and I use my cars a lot.. so I'd end up with a buggered motor

[corwin99]

Originally posted by *Miller*
Ouch. So, I should perhaps look for the same motor but with a higher turn then?

I dont have the means to cut my comm, and I use my cars a lot.. so I'd end up with a buggered motor

If you want good balance between speed and longevity of the motor try something around 15 turns... What you could do is get a more expensive motor for racing, and get cheap low turn motors for bashing.. like Trinity Speed Gems... or if you want really cheap get Trinity Caliber's..

your LHS doesn't cut comms for you?

[corwin99]

Originally posted by *Miller*
Ouch. So, I should perhaps look for the same motor but with a higher turn then?

I dont have the means to cut my comm, and I use my cars a lot.. so I'd end up with a buggered motor

If you want good balance between speed and longevity of the motor try something around 15 turns... What you could do is get a more expensive motor for racing, and get cheap low turn motors for bashing.. like Trinity Speed Gems... or if you want really cheap get Trinity Caliber's.. or even scour ebay.

You can get even a stock motor going pretty fast with the right gearing, and it lasts like way longer. What size pinions and spurs do ya have?

[*Miller*]

I dont know if they do. They have never mentioned it before...

I have the stock Pro3 gearing...

I dont actually race, but I may look into getting two motors, one when I race my mate, and one when I bash...

[corwin99]

oops i double posted that one kinda weird hmm..

for the stock pro3 gearing HPI recommends something like a 16-17 turn motor, which i find is a bit conservative... You could probably do good with a 15 turn.. but then i use low profile tires usually too so that affects it as well. The best way to make your stock motor go a lot faster is just pick up like a 37T Pinion and a 110T Spur gear... the 116T Spur they give u is too big for stock and ur undergeared... you'll notice a huge difference with a smaller spur and a larger pinion.

I have a 33, 35, 37 pinions and 110 and 116 spurs.. that gives me most of the options i need for the motors i use.

[*Miller*]

Thank you very much for the help Corwin. I will see what the LHS has in stock, and also order new gears :)

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by S15Racer
I don't like the idea of the pro 4. HPI is basically throwing away all the unique concepts behind the pro 3 and just copying off of someone else's cough...OLD...cough design. The pro 3 was a totally new design and could have worked with a few minor changes.



Hmmm. Seems no one likes to discuss the pro 4 topic when somebody bashes it;)

[S15Racer]

Dang-it, Double post

[corwin99]

I personally prefer belt-driven cars, so the Pro 4 isn't inspiring a ton of interest, but it seems like that style of chassis is like one of those must-have designs.. feel like i need to own one just for the sake of it :)

on the Pro 3 side, I got around to taking some photos today after giving it a few runs and burning out a motor somehow :\ i think i missed one of the shims when i took it apart.. i still haven't cracked it open. i just stuck a different motor in there after waiting for it to cool for like 15 minutes so i could actually touch the damn thing.

check it:

http://dood.ca/pics/cars/photo_pro3_01.jpg

http://dood.ca/pics/cars/photo_pro3_02.jpg

[sosidge]

What's going on with those orange tyres?

And also, your collars are way down on the shocks - looks like you're running a lot of pre-load - does the car still have any droop? If it doesn't, it'll mess up the handling.

[endangered]

i apology for being offtopic here. but this seems to be a place where there's PRO3 love,

i am seling my PRO3 with hopups. i am getting into micro's and lost interest in the 1/10

here's what i got

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=903254#post903254

thank you and again sorry for the classified

[*Miller*]

Well tomorrow, im going to my LHS, going to be getting some stuff. I have about £150 to be spending. Ill report back with what I get as soon as :D

[corwin99]

Originally posted by sosidge
What's going on with those orange tyres?

And also, your collars are way down on the shocks - looks like you're running a lot of pre-load - does the car still have any droop? If it doesn't, it'll mess up the handling.

I bought a bunch lot of colored tires to use as matching things for display cars with dyed wheels, there were a few pairs of orange in there and i figured i didn't really need that many so I popped 'em on and used them. They hook up alright, but they look kinda funny.

yeah the collars are way down cuz those shocks that i put on there are really short for some reason. there's actually barely any preload at all on the shocks, the handlings actually pretty good, i swapped in and out a whole bunch of shocks and there is a bit of droop in the shocks still.

[*Miller*]

Nice...

Today I bought

Futaba T2PHKA 40Mhz radio
Team Orion Rush 11t
Ordered a Reedy MVP stock
Commutator cleaning fluid
Corally connectors
Body clips
2000MaH Battery.

£117 :)

[Kden46]

I'm looking to upgrade my pro 3 and would like to know if anyone knows who still sells parts online besides towerhobbies? Thanks for any help.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Kden46

For HotBodies option parts contact Ricky's Rc Car direct. you won't find any on there website.

http://www.rickysrccar.com/

ebay also have lots of option parts available...they have a couple of the purple steering set available now..which is not sold in the US.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by corwin99
oops i double posted that one kinda weird hmm..

for the stock pro3 gearing HPI recommends something like a 16-17 turn motor, which i find is a bit conservative... You could probably do good with a 15 turn.. but then i use low profile tires usually too so that affects it as well. The best way to make your stock motor go a lot faster is just pick up like a 37T Pinion and a 110T Spur gear... the 116T Spur they give u is too big for stock and ur undergeared... you'll notice a huge difference with a smaller spur and a larger pinion.

I have a 33, 35, 37 pinions and 110 and 116 spurs.. that gives me most of the options i need for the motors i use.

I race with 8x2 or 10x2 and the car is ballistic!
I gear a stock motor P2K2 with 110/39.

[corwin99]

there's tons...

rcmart.com
rcboyz.com
www.penguinrc.com
home.attbi.com/~teamprp/

then there's a bunch that ship only within the US.

[corwin99]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
I race with 8x2 or 10x2 and the car is ballistic!
I gear a stock motor P2K2 with 110/39.

hehe I find it hard enough to drive with a 14x2 i dont wanna try anything that low yet, i wanna be able to drive properly first :) I still lack the skills :(

[kameleonmn]

So what class do you all race in?...I race in the stock motor class...here's my set-up...I have a stock peak performance motor, a 27 tooth (48 pitch) pinion, 81 (48 pitch) spur gear...that gives me a final drive of 6.75. Technically you'd want to gear it so your final drive is between 5 and 6. But i wanted a little bit of top speed for the straight. I'm still tryin alot of different set-up to see how my car handles too...so any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.:D

[sosidge]

I run stock.

You realise that the final ratio in the 5's will give more top end than the 6's (if the track is big enough for the motor to reach top speed).

[corwin99]

yeah.. the lower your drive ratio the higher the top end, dood.

also, wouldn't a 27/81 give you a final drive ratio of 6.3? I thought the drive ratio from the diff is 2.1.

i run stock, modified whatever motor i happen to have handy at the time :) i just bash around, race with friends and stuff.. nothing serious, not enough of a following around here to get a track going.. hell we dont even have an LHS that carries car stuff.

[sosidge]

the pro 3 internal ratio is 2.25:1, so kameleon is right with 6.75.

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by kameleonmn
I'm still tryin alot of different set-up to see how my car handles too...so any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.:D

Heres the set-up I run at a small tight carpet track:

Front suspension-

camber 0
caster 10
toe in 0
associated red springs
60 wt oil
piston #5
ride height 5mm

Rear suspension-

camber 0
toe 2
associated blue springs
60wt oil
piston #4
ride height 5mm

Misc-

gearing 112/35
tires HPI 23R w/ sorex firm blue inserts
one way front pully installed
traction compound on outer half of a 4 tires

Thats not the full setup but I got the important stuff in there. I am still tooling with this set up but it seems to work for my driving style. Anyone have any sugestions for me?

[corwin99]

Originally posted by sosidge
the pro 3 internal ratio is 2.25:1, so kameleon is right with 6.75.

doh! all this time i've been calculating it with a 2.1

yo now i'm wondering where the hell i got 2.1 from :\

[sosidge]

Suggestions - I can't believe your running 0 camber - you'll need at least 1 degree for even tyre wear.

Try less caster at the front, it'll really improve the steering around the tight corners.

And why are you saucing the outside of the tyre? With foams, people will use it on the inner side, or across the whole tyre.

[kameleonmn]

Hi all...well, big race today...wish me luck...today is Road Rage's racer gather up race. Seems there's gonna be a big crowd, the track owner tells me that there will be some pretty fierce competition today...But has yet to see anyone else but me with a pro 3...why wouldn't anyone race with this car sure beats the hell out of me...My brother races with a TA04 pro and his doesn't have the punch that my does on acceleration. Although the top end is about the same...when i let him have a car length (rc car that is) of a head start. Although his car is serious competition for mine tho. Have any of you seen the Jet Racing aluminum rear brace?...that looks sweet and trick compared to HPI's. My HB upper deck was good, but i swapped it for the Jet Racing upper deck...Anyways I'm off to kick some serious butts, so take care.

[rcharry]

I just wanted to let you all know that im tired of this all that i fell in love with so long ago, i hoped up oh so much and it still wont perform for me, i must admit i suck at driving and im sell my all graphite pro 3 w/ alum front blukhead and alum heatsink, so if any one wants it for spare parts email me. back schocks are beat up. It gave me many joys as well as my other toys.

Sounds like a love letter:D

[*Miller*]

I have my shiny new 11t motor in my Pro3, taking good care of it. The acceleration is still very good, which suggests to me that the car could be undergeared. So, I have the stock gearing now, what would be a good gear to go up to?

Speed would be good, but not overly critical, but I need to order a new spur gear, so I may as well order both and get some more speed :)

[sosidge]

I wouldn't go any higher than the kit gearing, otherwise you could end up overheating the motor.

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by sosidge
Suggestions - I can't believe your running 0 camber - you'll need at least 1 degree for even tyre wear.

Try less caster at the front, it'll really improve the steering around the tight corners.

And why are you saucing the outside of the tyre? With foams, people will use it on the inner side, or across the whole tyre.

Hmmm, the tires seem to be wearing ok, but I'll set it to 1 just cause you know more about this this than I do:)

I have tried less front caster (8) and I hated it! The car turned in too hard and spun out, then when I tried other adjustments to accomedate for this, it was never as good as it had been before, so I leave it at 10. Seems to work

And honesty I don't know why I put the compound on the outside. I just decided to do half of the tires instead of the whole thing and it went on the outside:D

[corwin99]

Originally posted by *Miller*
I have my shiny new 11t motor in my Pro3, taking good care of it. The acceleration is still very good, which suggests to me that the car could be undergeared. So, I have the stock gearing now, what would be a good gear to go up to?

HPI Recommends Gearing of either a 32 or a 31 pinion with your stock 116 spur. You could calculate the gear ratio from that and apply it to what pinion you would need with the 110 spur. The 110 Spur is by far the most versatile of all the spur gears for the pro 3.

I run a 14T mod with the stock gears and it just gets slightly hot after a pack or 2 even. Using the stock gears you are actually geared fairly high for a 11T. Best way to see if you are overgeared is to see how hot the motor is after a pack.. you should be able to hold your finger on it for 5 seconds. If you motor consistently overheats it will toast itself very quickly... I don't think you would be undergeared with what you're using on a 11T.

[*Miller*]

Ok thanks corwin and sosidge. It does get rather warm. I will check if it is TOO warm next time, and if it is I will gear it down a little when I order replacement gears. Thanks!

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Pro3 still on the podium.

Hara finished 2nd the the Thailand International Touring Car Championship lead by SURIKARN CHAIDEJSURIYA.

Just goes to show ya that the Pro3 is still very competative car.

Wonder why he did not run the Pro4?

[X-garage]

Here is a picture from the Thailand International Touring Car Championship. Surikarn was running TAMIYA TB III. I hope it would be better for HARA to use PRO4 to compete with TAMIYA shaft driven car.:D
http://picdb.thaimisc.com/rcpetchburi/1-7.jpg

[corwin99]

What was the other Tamiya driver running? a TB Evo III as well?

How come there are no TC3's on the podium in Asia? I've always heard that the races in Asia are usually dominated by Tamiya...

I was running my Pro 3 and a stupid tiny little rock bounced its way between my pinion and spur... i was using a lightweight RRP purple aluminum pinion. They are now both toast :( man.. i think the pinion is possible usable, but i dont wanna strip any more spurs with it.. the purple is kinda gone from one bit of it, as the rock was lodge in the spur. I didn't run it for very long with the strange noise, maybe 3-4 feet. I wonder if its alright?

[X-garage]

Both TAMIYA TRF were using TB III.

[YZ-870C]

just got my Pro 3 ...

got a lot to read, a lot to learn :D

[S15Racer]

Well good luck:)

BTW, how much did you pay for it?

[kameleonmn]

Hi all...I've searched and searched with NO LUCK...:confused:
Where does people who post their pic of their pro 3 get the aluminum clamp style hex hub from?....The plastic ones with my kit keeps sticking to my wheels...It's a hassle during pitting. I've asked people at my race track, but no one knows where to get them...and besides i'm the only one running a HPI and Pro 3. If anyone can direct me to a hobby site that sells them or similar item I would greatly appreciate it. :)

One last note...This one guy was racing a old tamiya ta03F pro knocked me out of the race...I was hangin second til he took me out. Don't worry the car was undamaged. I had to contend with comin back finishing 4th. Well, I'm out.

[sosidge]

HPI make the clamp hubs - they're available through the website in the USA, and in shops elsewhere.

[kameleonmn]

Thanx Sosidge but BUY HPI is not running...and I don't know any online hobby sites that sell them. So far I've tried rickysrc.com, towerhobbies.com, hobbyetc.com, hpiracing.com.
No luck. These are just the ones I know of. Although towerhobbies.com have some clamp style hex hub for the yokomo cars...do you think those would work? They aren't purple like hpi's because yokomo and AE likes the blue anno. Well, if i can't find them to trick my car out and to ease my pitting, maybe i can just settle for more plastic ones...oh well...i'm out.
:confused: :( :mad: :D

[AssociatedRacer]

Well if it helps i think the part # is 72036

[kameleonmn]

Yea thanx...I know the part number...it's just a matter of where to get it. I think the yokomo ones might fit but not sure if they're the same size as HPI's. :confused:

Such a small part but so hard to find :(
Oh well.....
For all pro 3 owners tho...the best upper deck is the Jet Racing one. Check it out on dinballrcmart.com, well, i'm out.

Got to resume my search.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by kameleonmn
Yea thanx...I know the part number...it's just a matter of where to get it. I think the yokomo ones might fit but not sure if they're the same size as HPI's. :confused:

Such a small part but so hard to find :(
Oh well.....
For all pro 3 owners tho...the best upper deck is the Jet Racing one. Check it out on dinballrcmart.com, well, i'm out.

Got to resume my search.


Yes..the Yokomo clamping hubs should fit.:)

[corwin99]

dinball for sure!

what kind of wheels are you using that the hex drives are sticking to the insides? I've tried about 6-7 different brands of wheels on the hpi hexes and the only ones that don't seem to fit are Tamiya ones.. they seem tighter, others are fine.

[JR in NC]

Getting ready to use my Pro 3 in a 19t spec class has anyone got any gearing advice or starting points. Gearing this car has been hit or miss for me form the beginning.
Thank for your help

JR

[kameleonmn]

Corwin I'm just using HPI black R5 wheels...also some 15 spokes from Ricky's rc. I'm to the point where each wheel has a hex in it so that i won't have to worry about tryin to take the hex off from the wheel. I was thinkin about getting the yokomo clamp hex but decided not to. The blue anno doesn't do it for me. Well, i'm sure i'll come across the hpi one's soon...hopefully. I'm sure there's a hobby site out there that sells them. As soon as my stupid digital cam starts workin i'll post my pro 3 for all to see. til then i'm out.

[sosidge]

JR - try 7.5:1 overall (roughly the kit gearing) as a starting point - a good guide to gearing is to get the motor to hit top speed at the end of the longest straight. Go down a bit if the motor is overheating, or the car lacks zip in the infield. Sometimes the car will go better when geared even higher - the laptimes, and how the car feels, are your best guide.

kameleon - I never have probs with the wheel hexes either - try sliding the wheel off at a bit of an angle, so the hex grips onto the shaft.

[kameleonmn]

Hi...I was wonderin if anybody knows if there is a carbon graphite plae chassis for the pro 3 that will accept a stick pack...like my sport packs. I saw some guy has one posted on the hpi racers gallery with a plate chassis that holds a stick pack. If anyone knows where i'd like to know where to get it...thanks...i'm out. :D

[kameleonmn]

I just got the Penguin graphite chassis set...pretty cool...ok now that my chassis is set...I want to get the cool purple alum. steering arms...Where can i get them?...I saw them once for auction on ebay but, now I can't seem to find them anymore...Today was a bad day...we got a little snow and the track was closed down...bummer. Well, I'm out but anyone who knows where i can acquire this steering set would be greatly appreciated. :D

[YZ-870C]

i have the hpi CF chassis, can i use stick pack with it?

[jay272]

Does anyone know where to get the low friction belts (A735 front, A736 rear) for the pro 3? I've been looking online forever and can't seem to find them. I'm also looking for the aluminum hexes, and that worthless "buy HPI" site is down as usual. Does anyone know where else to find them? Thanks guys.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by YZ-870C
i have the hpi CF chassis, can i use stick pack with it?

On the molded CF chassis yes..you can..
ont the CF plate chassis...no you can not..:(

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by jay272
Does anyone know where to get the low friction belts (A735 front, A736 rear) for the pro 3? I've been looking online forever and can't seem to find them. I'm also looking for the aluminum hexes, and that worthless "buy HPI" site is down as usual. Does anyone know where else to find them? Thanks guys.

email me at rc_zombies@hotmail.com..
I'll have to double check..but I think I might have a new set front and rear I might be able to sell you.

Aluminum hex..try Integy, or Speedtech, the yokomo ones will fit.

[YZ-870C]

how the comparsion of the hpi molded CF chassis, CF plate chassis and the stock chassis?

i also have a CF upper deck.

thanks

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by YZ-870C
how the comparsion of the hpi molded CF chassis, CF plate chassis and the stock chassis?

i also have a CF upper deck.

thanks

compared to stock..

the CF molded chassis still flexes. good for outdoor parking lot racing.
CF plate chassis the best! combined with HPI one-piece upperdeck...all the flex of the car is gone. great for carpet and some serious compitition races...
I have it on my car...the car is more responsive. :)

[YZ-870C]

anybody tried the HPI Inner Body Pro 3? is it a 1 piece or 2 pieces?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBGM0&P=0

i think it's good for a dusty parking lot.

[sosidge]

The inner body is 1 piece, it's a good fit, even if you cut parts of the front away to fit a top-deck.

If you get a plate chassis, the inner body will be useless, you need to stick with a moulded one.

[kameleonmn]

Hi all...I got the penguin cf chassis set and was wonderin if anyone has any idea on how i can modify it to use stick packs...I have only stick packs and don't really want to assemble any new packs...only because i have more then enough packs already...all in all it's a good lookin chassis if i can get it to accept my sticks...hehehehe...thanks for listening all...I'm out. :D

[corwin99]

I just picked up the CF Front and Rear shock towers/damper stays for the pro 3 from Jet on eBay. Now i'm just sitting here thinking why did i do that cuz well, i didn't wanna put anymore money into this thing, but they were only $16.

Do the CF damper stays really do anything other than reduce weight and decrease durability?

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by corwin99
I just picked up the CF Front and Rear shock towers/damper stays for the pro 3 from Jet on eBay. Now i'm just sitting here thinking why did i do that cuz well, i didn't wanna put anymore money into this thing, but they were only $16.

Do the CF damper stays really do anything other than reduce weight and decrease durability?

Just more tuning mounting locations...:)

[YZ-870C]

i would think CF would be more durable than the stock?

[sosidge]

Not really, the standard towers are very tough mouldings.

[YZ-870C]

oh :eek:

in that case, i would have to stick to the stock shock towers then (since i crash A LOT) :o :D

[corwin99]

oh well. that's one thing i still haven't fiddled with yet is the shock mounting positions. I have only rudimentry knowledge of the differences between the positions, but oh well.. at least it'll look cooler. :)

[YZ-870C]

speaking of mounting position ...

what's the mounting position for the lowest and highest ride height?

and how much camber i have use to compensate on the ride height difference?

[Whacky]

Originally posted by YZ-870C
speaking of mounting position ...

what's the mounting position for the lowest and highest ride height?

and how much camber i have use to compensate on the ride height difference?

:confused: :confused: :confused:

You don's change rideheight by shock location, u use the collar on the shock body the adjust the ride height!!

Corwin99,

The shock position is usualy a fine tune option and should be one of the last things to change!
Also if u change the shock location watch your tires for even wear becouse camber change is different.
When the shocks are more vertical mounted the springs behave more liniar (softer feeling)
When the shocks are mounted more inclined the springs will behave more progressive (Harder feeling).

so if u thing one spring is to soft and the next one is to hard u can use the shock position to find something in the middle. so if u want a little bit more grip on one side mount the shocks more vertical (Or incline the shocks on the opposite side a little bit more) Etc. change one thing at the time and make small adjustments, sometimes these changes can only be noticed with a STOPWATCH!!!!



-Whacky.

[YZ-870C]

:confused: :confused:

really?

i am even more confused about the ride height adjustment ... ??

we are talking about the same thing right?

ride height = how much ground clearance of the car?

[YZ-870C]

my next question was how to adjust the ride height?

i thought the collar was to adjust the pre-load of the spring?

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by YZ-870C
my next question was how to adjust the ride height?

i thought the collar was to adjust the pre-load of the spring?

Adjusting the pre-load will determine your ride height.. typically you want rided height set at 5.5mm rear and 5mm front. tower locations determine how your shocks will react in turns..more upright it is more linear...the more it leans inward it's more progressive. Are you confused even more:confused: :confused:

[corwin99]

adjusting the collar or the preload spacers will marginally affect ride hide by decreasing or increasing the droop.

why couldn't you increase ride height by either using longer shocks or changing the mounting positions, though I woudln't think that it was a good thing to do. You would probably affect the suspension geometry quite a bit.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Lengthening the shock shaft will definately increase the ride height..but will also increase the droop...You have to find the balance between the two.
On the front shock tower stick with the inner holes and on the rear set the shocks in the center hole. Then adjust your shock length accordingly. Less droop will increase traction and less body roll. and more the opposite. Also depends on the track conditions...more droop for bumpy low traction surface..and less droop for high traction tracks. In either case..5mm ride height is optimum.:)

[jay272]

Hey RC Zombies. I picked up a set of those low friction belts from a LHS, but thanks for the offer/response!

[kameleonmn]

Here's my set-up:
REAR: the rear shock location has 3 holes. I use the middle location.
CAMBER: on the rear shock tower you have 4 sets of holes. 2 towards the outside and 2 towards the inside. I use the bottom of the 2 insides. On the rear uprights I use the middle location.
Camber is set at 2.0

FRONT: The front shock location has 2 holes. I use the inside ones.
CAMBER: I use the bottom of the 2 inside. For the front uprights I use the bottom hole. Camber is set at 1.5

My ride height is 5mm all around.
Tires: I use the medium compound up fron. For the rear I use the super soft compound.

This set-up seem to work pretty good for me. Thanks for listening.
Happy racing :D

[*Miller*]

I am really curious as to how fast my Pro3 is going now.. Could any of you shed some light on what the speed is likely to be? I have an 11t motor in it with the stock gearing and Sanyo 2000Mah batteries. Its all stock except for the motor... The car appears to be very fast, and will outrun most the cars that go through my street (a 30Mph spped limit). Any ideas?

THanks, btw, I did search but couldnt come up with a figure for this car w/11t motor.

:p

[jay272]

I just saw a Pro 3 for sell with a full penguin chassis conversion on ebay for about $140. Looks pretty cool.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by jay272
I just saw a Pro 3 for sell with a full penguin chassis conversion on ebay for about $140. Looks pretty cool.

Not as cool as to the one I just sold..:)

[corwin99]

rc-zombies.. yah i saw your purple pro 3 on the auction block. nice. actually i was going looking at an item and noticed that you were bidding on it :) so i checked out your items for sale.. funny coincedence.

Anyway.. you guys know if these:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRB07&P=7

fit the pro3 balls? They're the RPM heavy duty ball ends and I wanna use them on the pro 3 cuz they look cool

[RC-ZOMBIES]

corwin99...

Yea it got sold...hoping it wouldn't sell..I was attached to it. but last minute someone got it. Funny thing too is that on the buyer's feedback all the items he purchased had nothing to do with RC. So I'm wondering what's he's going to do with the car.


RPM ball cups will fit the steering linkage. You'll need to get new balls if you want to change the one on the shock tower links as well.

[corwin99]

I always find it weird when someone buys something from me and their feedback doesn't have anything at all related to it. :)

Maybe he just wanted a top of the line car for his first? :)

excellent!
I was going to change the ones on the steering linkage only anyway... I need to get some for my Stampede and have a whole bunch of HPI balls from an auction that I won and wanted to use the remainder of them for the steering linkage. I guess i could change the rest too.. i have a lot of those ball nuts ;)

[corwin99]

I got my shock towers.. well.. i sent one back cuz it was broken :(
but i'll get it soon. I was hoping i'd get hardware for mounting all the shocks and stuff with them but that's not the case. I probably shoulda just bought the HPI ones since they're countersunk and come with hardware :(

So anyway, do you guys know what size of nuts I need to hold the ball nuts for the shocks and the camber links on the other side of the shock tower? None of the nuts I have are threaded properly... They seem to be in-between the self-tapping screws and the regular machine screws.

[YZ-870C]

i broke my pro 3 today ... :(

dusty basketball court, made a bad turn, oversteer, over correct, went into a post, broke the right left suspension arms and front upright ... :(

the ones i broke are the carbon graphite ones. should i go for the carbon graphite suspension arms again? or the original ones seems to be cheaper ...

[YZ-870C]

whats the difference between the degree of the front upright?

how will it change the handling of the car?

thanks

[sosidge]

If you're racing, stick with the carbon arms, if not, put a cheaper plastic one on (if you can, run the same kind of wisbone on both sides of the car).

Caster - less angle gives more off-power steering, good for tight tracks. More angle gives more on-power steering, better for more sweeping tracks. The Pro 3 seems to work better with less caster on most tracks.

[corwin99]

just took a pic today of my pro 3.. still haven't put the CF shock towers in yet.. one was broken so I had to send it back... Does anyone have any info on the thread and what kind of nuts I should use to hold the ball nuts in?

http://dood.ca/hobby/images/photo_rc_pro3.jpg

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Heads up guys...

Buy HPI is back up and running
Available now is the woven graphite tub chassis that everyone is waiting for..at a bargain price of $55.00
along with the new lightweight front one-way diff at $50.00

http://www.hpiracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BH&Product_Code=A383

[Vmax911]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
Heads up guys...

Buy HPI is back up and running
Available now is the woven graphite tub chassis that everyone is waiting for..at a bargain price of $55.00
along with the new lightweight front one-way diff at $50.00

http://www.hpiracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BH&Product_Code=A383

So is that one "better" than this one? (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDBF3&P=7)

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by Vmax911
So is that one "better" than this one? (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDBF3&P=7)


They are both equal. Some like the plates some like the tub.:D

[YZ-870C]

that woven graphite tub chassis looks good

too bad i already have the woven plate chassis :)

[kart38]

If someone is able to order that woven graphite tub off of Buy HPI could you please email me at kart38@mchsi.com. I want the tub, have been waiting since they showed a pic of the prototype, but don't have a credit card.

Sorry for being off topic.

Thanks for any help.

Jason

[oldginger]

If you are upgrading your PRO3, I think you want to check these out too. SQUARE Performance Hop-Ups! (http://www.rchub.com)

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by oldginger
If you are upgrading your PRO3, I think you want to check these out too. SQUARE Performance Hop-Ups! (http://www.rchub.com)

Those parts have been available for over a year now...Jet racing parts are less expensive and just as good.

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
Those parts have been available for over a year now...Jet racing parts are less expensive and just as good.

I totally agreed. The funny thing though is Jet's are so similar in design. btw, anybody looking for the Purple anodized aluminum servo arms? let me know because I have a couple of packs.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by Dr. Techn0
I totally agreed. The funny thing though is Jet's are so similar in design. btw, anybody looking for the Purple anodized aluminum servo arms? let me know because I have a couple of packs.


Also if anybody is looking for a hardly used front one-way diff, Square spurgear adapter and plate, or a Cross spurgear/pully adapter.. let me know...left over parts after I sold my Pro3's:D

[corwin99]

You guys know what kind of hardware i need to mount the shocks on the Jet Shock towers? They don't come with Hardware.. kinda annoying like that :(

the only problem i see with them is the shocks seems to need spacers from the tower, as the molded plastic ones that were originally there had built in spacers. What kind of spacers should I get? how will I connect the ball joint if i use a spacer... do i need longer ones?.. I tried to figure out what kind of hardware came with the HPI ones, but I dont think they sell those separately.. :(

[RC-ZOMBIES]

corwin99

you can use 3mm screw and nut to hold it in place.. the nut acts as a spacer. you'll need the proper ball ends for the shock caps.
I think they are A137 ...4.7mm balls..
see:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM792&P=7

you can use these for the shock shafts as well to replace those purple balls. :)

[corwin99]

cool Cool thanks RCZ!

yah i think they're 4.7mm balls too.. Excellent! That's perfect I have all the nuts and screws that I need for it too.

[spoolin]

Here is a pic of my pro 3......still up and running! :)
http://slidecentral.rs-scooby.com/RCD///images/hot34.jpg
http://slidecentral.rs-scooby.com/pics/newpro35.jpg

[sosidge]

Was it corwin who had the white integra? Well whoever it was I'm afraid I've copied you (although this is the new Integra/Acura RSX)

Instead of buying a new car, I decided to cut costs and buy a new shell...

[corwin99]

yah.. i have the white Old-skool Integra :)

I love that new RSX shell... its looks great! I was going to get one of those then decided on the Accord, then cancelled that one and bought a Stratus and a Subaru body off ebay for cheap instead.

Is that the HPI RSX...? They only have that in 200mm right? I've seen the Tamiya one but can't bring myself to pay that much for a body.

[sosidge]

Nope, it's the protoform RSX.

[kameleonmn]

Originally posted by Dr. Techn0
I totally agreed. The funny thing though is Jet's are so similar in design. btw, anybody looking for the Purple anodized aluminum servo arms? let me know because I have a couple of packs.


Hi everybody...Dr. Techno i'm interested in your alum. servo arms...how much do you want for it. Please let me know...i've been looking for them and so far only found them on DinballRcmart...but i think they're not located in the US. Oh, I also got the new woven graphite chassis that HPI just released...looks pretty trick but i've decided to stick with my graphite molded ones...not gonna run side by side packs. Anyone interested should check it out on ebay.
http://**************/ws/*******************************3126577537&ssPageName=ADME:B:LC:US:1
:D

[kameleonmn]

Guess the link didn't work...well my chassis on ebay is listed as:
HPI PRO 3 woven graphite chassis: not molded
It's cheaper then to order it from HPI. So check it out. Also its only in a limited quantity. Let me know about those arms Dr. Techno.

[SCHMACH]

hey spoolin, who makes that upper plate ? and what's the part # if you got it. i'm doing a project pro 3 and i'd like to have that brace on the car

[YZ-870C]

toe in? toe out? what's the difference? front and rear toe?

thanks

[Whacky]

He YZ-870C,

Rear Toe in is only used, the more toe-in in the rear makes the car more stable on the straight, but it scrubs off some speed.
Rear Toe-in is set at 2 deg.

Front Toe-in makes the car steer better in the middle and exit of a turn, but the car does not turn in as well.
Front Toe-out gives u a better turn in at the start of the corner, but a little less steering on the middele and exit of the corner.
Start with 0Deg of front Toe and work from there.



-Whacky.

[YZ-870C]

thanks :) good info

this explain my car's handling now.

and i am still looking for the reason why my car pulls to the left (sometimes even spin out) under hard braking

[corwin99]

SCHMACH: That upper plate is made by TeamPRP
check it out here:
http://home.attbi.com/~teamprp/

[Whacky]

Originally posted by YZ-870C
thanks :) good info

this explain my car's handling now.

and i am still looking for the reason why my car pulls to the left (sometimes even spin out) under hard braking


If your car pulls to the left then you probably have not setup your suspension corectly.
Make sure ure shocks are equaly long left and right and that the preload collar hase the same space left and right.
if not than one side (right) hase more traction and pushes the car to the left. onder braking the car could pull to the right or spin out.
To much weight on one side of the car can also be the cause of this (heavy ESC and RC) and a light servo.

greatz,

-Whacky.

[*Miller*]

I have just put a 17x2 motor into my car, and it seems really rather slow.. I am using stock gearing, and was thinking of changing it to add a little speed. Any of you run a 17t motor? What gearing do you use? Thanks :)

[sosidge]

If the car feels slow, try higher gearing, you'll need a smaller spur (like a 110), and then you can fit bigger pinions.

[*Miller*]

Ah cool, thank you. The pinion at the moment is 36 I believe. Would something like 30/110 be too much? Thanks

[sosidge]

A 30/110 would be a considerably lower gear ratio, and the car would be slower (unless you're on a tight track). 35 is the standard pinion, I would suggest trying the 110 spur first, then going up a couple of teeth at a time on the pinion until you get to where you want to be. Much more than 40/110 is probably going to start cooking the motor.

[*Miller*]

Cool thank you. WIll the 35/110 gears fit using the standard motor mount?

[sosidge]

Yes.

[*Miller*]

Originally posted by sosidge
Yes.

Lol thanks again, I will see about ordering a 110 spur gear :)

[corwin99]

i recorded a pic of my pro 3 cruising around with my new digital camera... check it out :) The pro 3 is the white one and the black one is a TL-01. The lot was SOOO dusty and i was using the wrong tires.. I got the thing drifting it was cool :)

http://www.island.net/~corwin/pro3_fast.AVI

[*Miller*]

Sweet, looks like you nearly hit a couple of times! :)

[corwin99]

heh yah.. if you listen closely you hear me say "woah" on the second reallly close one :) we actually did crash once but i didn't get it on camera. This filming thing is fun.. too bad i can only get 30seconds at a time :(

[*Miller*]

Hehe, I thought I heard something like that. I have had some close calls too with friends cars, shame I dont have the means to record the video digitally! :(

[xtreme]

I just got my new woven graphite chassis for my Pro3. :D

http://members.rogers.com/scott.sara/******/chassis-top.jpg

If you look there are some ears that stick in on the corners of each battery slot. They prevent the batteries from sitting all the way down in the chassis. The batteries stick up about 2mm from the bottom. I don't know what they are there for, maybe cooling?

http://members.rogers.com/scott.sara/******/chassis-topslots.jpg
http://members.rogers.com/scott.sara/******/chassis-bottom1.jpg
http://members.rogers.com/scott.sara/******/chassis-bottom2.jpg

My question is should I bother filing the slots? Just wondering if anyone else has seen battery slots like this before, and what they have done with them.
Also, the slots are about 2-3mm longer than a cell, which means there is room for the battery to move. How do you guys stop the batteries from moving without using tape?
My thoughts on the filing now are to just file the ears on a 45 degree angle but not file the rest of the slot. And to get rid of the side to side movement I could just file in 1 mm from each end, leaving enough of the ears to hold the pack from moving around.
And the chassis is not glossy. Can I just use an automotive clear coat on it?

Thanks

[sosidge]

I would just take the edges off the ears, so they aren't sharp. Just do it enough for the cells to sit flush with the bottom of the chassis - we don't want them to get scratched.

One way to hold the cells in place would be to get some scrap lexan, bend it, and attach the "rail" you've made to the chassis with either glue or servo tape.

[Downforce]

extreme-File the ears to a 45 and no more. If you do your cells will hang below the chassis. I did mine at a 45 and they are very close to hanging out the bottom.

[kameleonmn]

Hi all...just got back from a race today...man what a race...everyone was bashin into one another...it looked more like demolition derby then a race...but everyone had a great time...my question is has anyone had the problem of havin the rear swing out in a tight turn?...I run Sorex 28r all around with medium hard inserts in the front and meduim soft in the rear...my suspension i'm usin the teflon number 3 with 40wt oil all around, pro linear pink springs in the rear and pro linear blue in the front. running in this set up makes my rear stick out during a hard turn in...any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...thanx.

[xtreme]

Well I filed the slots last night and the batteries sit about 0.5 mm above the bottom of the chassis. I didn't want to go too far down. I put the car back together and does it ever look sweet, and talk about stiff. That new chassis combined with the Team PRP upper deck make the car as stiff as any other out there plus it looks extremely trick with all of that woven graphite (chassis, upper deck, shock towers). I will post a finished picture soon.

kameleonmn: You may want to try a slightly softer spring in the rear or install a light swaybar.

[Downforce]

Originally posted by kameleonmn
Hi all...just got back from a race today...man what a race...everyone was bashin into one another...it looked more like demolition derby then a race...but everyone had a great time...my question is has anyone had the problem of havin the rear swing out in a tight turn?...I run Sorex 28r all around with medium hard inserts in the front and meduim soft in the rear...my suspension i'm usin the teflon number 3 with 40wt oil all around, pro linear pink springs in the rear and pro linear blue in the front. running in this set up makes my rear stick out during a hard turn in...any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...thanx.

I have a small check list for you, in no real particular order.
-check your dual rate on your radio
-check your driving line
-is it in one corner? track condition? crack in corner, ripples,etc
-make sure your tires are glued all the way around. It's pretty amazing and frustrating when you find one.
-go over your car for anything out of the ordinary. I had a cvd wear out and was locking up when I went to full lock in one direction on the track.
-look your setup over and either add push or rear bite (same difference)to your car.

[popsracer]

Originally posted by kameleonmn
Hi all...just got back from a race today...man what a race...everyone was bashin into one another...it looked more like demolition derby then a race...but everyone had a great time...my question is has anyone had the problem of havin the rear swing out in a tight turn?...I run Sorex 28r all around with medium hard inserts in the front and meduim soft in the rear...my suspension i'm usin the teflon number 3 with 40wt oil all around, pro linear pink springs in the rear and pro linear blue in the front. running in this set up makes my rear stick out during a hard turn in...any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...thanx.

Hows your Rear Droop? Too little will cause the Rear end to get loose mid corner. Are you using any type of One-way? The Track may be too tight for use of a One-way, use both diffs instead.

My Pro-3 has been so Dialed lately that I've got the long time Expert Stock racers at our tracks nervous. Just need a little more Motor or Battery to take the #1 spot.

[kameleonmn]

Thanx for the tips...I was at a sight reading about set-ups...seems that all these new kits needs a really soft rear...with a low droop...the pro3 there was set up with sorex 33r in the front and 28r in the rear. Pink linear springs rear and blue fronts, 55 wt. oil front and 40wt oil rear. Is this right?...are we suppose to run really soft in the rear?...how are everyone's car set-up...because i can't seem to dial mine in no matter what combinations i've tried. But i'm gonna try the really soft rear set-up...we'll see how it handles. :confused: ....Our track is a very tight carpet...i'm not usin the one-way diff...yet ...and no sway bars. Wish me luck on my outing...i'm out!! :D