HPI RS4 Pro 3 Forum

[jay272]

Kameleonmn.....Try a softer rear insert and tire combo. I use 27r compound and medium or firm in front, 20r compound and yellow soft HPI inserts in all my cars (rear). I had so much rear traction (on carpet) that if I took a corner sloppily midway though a race (after the tires were heated) the car would get up on 2 wheels or traction roll. Also, user thicker shock fluid in ftont. People have told me that "going soft" will make the car corner slower. Now I'm lapping those people In my Xray!!

[Downforce]

Who makes the upper brace that you can lift your battery out the front? I have the HB brace which I have to remove it to put the battery in.

[xtreme]

The braces are from Team PRP (http://home.attbi.com/~teamprp/)

They are excellent quality and the owner of the company is the nicest guy I have ever dealt with.

Definately worth the money.

[Downforce]

extreme-Thanks man, ordered one this afternoon.

[corwin99]

I took some new pics of my pro3 with a Stratus body.. i figured i'd join the lemming-driven Stratus population for a bit :)

i messed up the masking on the bottom edges.. i hate that.

http://rc.dood.ca/images/photo_pro3_01.jpg

I'm also in the process of setting up an RC page: http://rc.dood.ca/

its going to be actually all of my "hobbies"... rc being one of them. Im gonna put up some videos and articles too maybe.. not sure yet.

[Megatron]

Spoolin':

Is that the special Hara edition, or is that chassis availiable by itself? And if so, from where?

[k_bojar]

Anyone have links to all the Japan Pro3 hop-ups?? Like Square's, Tops, or any of them??

thanks

[Frank McKinney]

Originally posted by Downforce
Who makes the upper brace that you can lift your battery out the front? I have the HB brace which I have to remove it to put the battery in.

You can save wear and tear on your bulkheads and screw heads by just leaving the upper deck in place and installing/removing the battery on the belt side of the car.

[Vmax911]

Any advice on what springs to use on a swept parking lot track?
I got my Po 3 used, and the springs on it feel reall stiff. They are blue progressives in front and green progressives in the rear.

[nomac]

hey extreme... back on page 20 you posted a pic of a new chassis. where'd you get it and what's the cost? Just get a pro3 yesterday at the east coast reg. 3's. it's no beauty queen but i'm happy. the flex in that thing is incredible! so i want to reduce the flex as much as possible. and maybe add carbon arn and install reduced castor blocks.

[sosidge]

Originally posted by Vmax911
Any advice on what springs to use on a swept parking lot track?
I got my Po 3 used, and the springs on it feel reall stiff. They are blue progressives in front and green progressives in the rear.

Use something from the 27mm linear range, pink fronts and blue rears are a good start.

[Wraith0078]

Here's the only pic I have handy of my Pro 3. As of this afternoon, I appear to be in need of a new chassis. Where might I find a good upgraded one, possibly even aluminum? :D

[Wraith0078]

Helps if I attach the image....

http://wraith.is-a-geek.com/Images/RIP-RS4.jpg

[Vmax911]

Now that's modular. hehe :)

[nomac]

anybody have a good mod set-up for a large asphalt track. summertime temps with dual one-ways and take-off control tire. i run in between 8x1 to a 13x2 tri-rotor. thanx

[sosidge]

Originally posted by Wraith0078
Here's the only pic I have handy of my Pro 3. As of this afternoon, I appear to be in need of a new chassis. Where might I find a good upgraded one, possibly even aluminum? :D

There's no aluminium options, but there are a couple of woven carbon fibre options (HPI has two, one tub style and one plate style, also Hot Bodies and a few other makes as well), or you can get the original plastic chassis, or the graphite version of that (A381).

[Wraith0078]

Anybody know if these shocks will work on the Pro3?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAHM6&P=7

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by Wraith0078
Anybody know if these shocks will work on the Pro3?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAHM6&P=7

Without looking at this I'd assume they would fit...Hot Bodies parts fit HPI cars very well :)

Currently I'm running Tamiya TRF threaded shocks on my Pro3

[Wraith0078]

Originally posted by k_bojar
Without looking at this I'd assume they would fit...Hot Bodies parts fit HPI cars very well :)

Currently I'm running Tamiya TRF threaded shocks on my Pro3

Are they aluminum? How much? And where can I find them?

[sosidge]

Hotbodies shocks are shorter than the HPI versions, so you COULD get some problems with ride height etc. They're designed primarily for the Hotbodies shock towers.

[nomac]

no set-ups yet huh?

[S15Racer]

Hey guys, im getting back into the habit of RC. kinda dropped it for a few months because of school and stuff. Anyways, mines a pro 3, got the HPI graphite plate chassis, upper deck, and aluminum motor plate, shaft mount, and soon to come carbon graphite shock towers. I've got a bit of a problem though- I cant fit any thing bigger than like a 116 spur on there with the plate chassis. What can I do? I really need to put bigger spurs than that to run mod motors.
TIA

[Wraith0078]

Why don't you just use a smaller pinion instead?

[sosidge]

You can fit some pretty small pinions with a 116 spur... If you need to go much lower than those options I would say you're running too much motor for the track.

Or you can cut a small recess or slot under the spur.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by Wraith0078
Are they aluminum? How much? And where can I find them?

I got them from a TA04R I sold...Tower hobbies also sells them - probably will run you about $50 bucks or so

[corwin99]

yeah the chart with the Pro3 says you can go down to a 24T Pinion with the 116 Spur.. which gives you a rollout thats lower than you'd need with even a 6T motor...

I bought some woven Graphite shock towers for my pro 3, and they were a waste of money I think.. I bought the Jet ones, the Hot Bodies ones are kinda cheap, and the the HPI ones are expensive. Now my car doesn' even look as good I dont think.. and with all the extra locknuts on there its probably just as heavy if not heavier. Maybe the HPI ones are designed better.

Hot Bodies shocks are usually cheaper than other shocks... I bought 4 long threaded shocks for my clod from hot Bodies... i htink they were only $18 a pair. the Touring car sized ones were about the same.

[S15Racer]

Can you get 64pitch pinions that small? 24t? Wow, that smallest ive got is a 29, and I run that with a 116 spur on my 10 turn P94, and the thing is horribly slow acceleration wise. Is 116/29 too high for a 10t or am I just spoiled by low gearing and super acceleration?
:)

[corwin99]

116/29 should be fine for a 10-Turn.. you might even be able to go up to a 30T. Does your P-94 run hot? I've never used the P-94 series of motors, just the D4s and the Speedgems. How does it compare to other motors you've used?

[nomac]

s15 racer...do you run asphalt? can you help me with some mod set-ups? i printed out the ones from hpi but they are old. i need some fresh new ones. btw my chassis is basically stock with aftermarket stiffeners.
thanks in advance.

[xtreme]

Originally posted by nomac
hey extreme... back on page 20 you posted a pic of a new chassis. where'd you get it and what's the cost? Just get a pro3 yesterday at the east coast reg. 3's. it's no beauty queen but i'm happy. the flex in that thing is incredible! so i want to reduce the flex as much as possible. and maybe add carbon arn and install reduced castor blocks.

I got it from Buy HPI, part number A383. It cost $55 US. I don't know if they still have any.

[nomac]

thanks for all the help guys (yea right :( , i got all the help i needed)

[mpyacfo]

If you guys want the best pro 3 chassis, buy the penguin rc complete kit. I have it on my pro 3 along with a whole list of purple parts to make it all match. I am thinking about getting the one way pully. Does it increase overall speed or acceleration? I think the Penguin rc kit was in some 2002 RCCA issue. It was the one about getting the "tweak" out of your chassis. Personally, I love my HPI. I think something is wrong with it though, because I have to poin the antenna at the car otherwise I lose steering but not throttle. You guys think it's the radio or receiver?

[sosidge]

The one-way pulley may make a tiny difference in top speed, but the main reason for using one is the handling difference they create, you get a lot more steering, and should be able to carry more corner speed on a grippy track, but you lose a lot of stability when you lift off or brake. The pulley has a milder effect than a full-blown diff, but it's not something for beginners.

[nomac]

EXTEME > didn't find any castor blocks or a chassis from my lhs. but they did manage to get my a-arms in. what a differance!

but any-hoo, i work in a fab shop so i have lots of materials to play with. just finished my "custom carbon" chassis yesterday. flex....no more. now it's time to find a comfortable mod set-up with the double one-ways!

[mpyacfo]

Does anyone know where I can get a set of purple alluminum a-arms? I need front and back but I can't find them. I was looking for some like on the harra edition. If anyone can give me a link it would be really helpful!

[S15Racer]

116/29 should be fine for a 10-Turn.. you might even be able to go up to a 30T. Does your P-94 run hot? I've never used the P-94 series of motors, just the D4s and the Speedgems. How does it compare to other motors you've used?

OK if you say so, it just seems ungodly slow compared to what I was running before. I had it geared 29/125 to take care of it since I wasnt acually racing and it was like upper 90s temperature. I really dont have a basis for comparison since the only other mod motor i had was a 12t speed gem and I had that over geared and it burned up. But lets see, Id say the P94 10t geared 29/125 was just as fast as the 12t SG geared 35/116. so there you go:)

s15 racer...do you run asphalt? can you help me with some mod set-ups? i printed out the ones from hpi but they are old. i need some fresh new ones. btw my chassis is basically stock with aftermarket stiffeners.

I dont really race mod, I use my mod motors for play time and to impress people since there currently arent any mod class races in my area (much less tracks big enough to hold them:rolleyes: ) I mostly just race stock, and you prolly dont want my tuning help anyway, Im not that good at it yet lol.

[sosidge]

Originally posted by mpyacfo
Does anyone know where I can get a set of purple alluminum a-arms? I need front and back but I can't find them. I was looking for some like on the harra edition. If anyone can give me a link it would be really helpful!

The Hara edition doesn't have aluminium arms.

[mpyacfo]

Oh, well has anyone ever found alluminum arms for the pro 3?

[*Miller*]

Dang it. I was just ready to set up my digital camera so that I could post a vid of my Pro3, when I realised that the motor brushes had cracked apart because they are worn out. Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnng it! :mad:

[SilentGT]

www.hpiforums.com is the replacement site of the HPI USA forums. If you used to be there we'd like you back. If you are new why not stop by anyways. We'd love new members.

[mpyacfo]

Can someone give me the site with all the jet racing parts for sale on it? Thanks in advance.

[corwin99]

Originally posted by S15Racer
OK if you say so, it just seems ungodly slow compared to what I was running before. I had it geared 29/125 to take care of it since I wasnt acually racing and it was like upper 90s temperature. I really dont have a basis for comparison since the only other mod motor i had was a 12t speed gem and I had that over geared and it burned up. But lets see, Id say the P94 10t geared 29/125 was just as fast as the 12t SG geared 35/116. so there you go:)

wow.. 29/125 seems a little undergeared... i didn't know you could fit a 125 spur in there! P-94's are supposed to have lots of torque for like off-road racing, you might be able to gear them higher. There's a couple ways to see if its running hot.. if you can hold your finger on it for at least 5 seconds its ok, or if you put a drop of water on it and it doesn't evaporate in less than 10 seconds. i usually dont have a dropper handy. if its not running hot then u should be okay... and remember that running 2 consecutive packs will make it hotter.. so gear it lower if you plan to run pack after pack.

[S15Racer]

Yeah, I was running pack after pack in the middle of the summer just playing around my house, so you see why I geared it low. But it was still incredibly fast! It could out accelerate my P2K stock with that gearing and it prolly didnt top until about 30mph lol. It was fun. And yeah, you can fit a 125 spur in there with the stock chassis, but just barely, lol. Cant get anywhere near that big with the plate chassis. Went out and bought a couple of new spur gears yesterday, a 110t and another 116 to replace my old stripped one.

Now if only this pack would finish charging I could go out and run it some more:D

Oh, and I almost forgot- Corwin, I figured out where you got the 2.1 internal gear ratio thing. I figured it out when I bought the HPI spur yesterday, it comes with a gear ratio sheet you know, and down below that in small print it says, "Use this equation to calculate the final drive ratio for the RS4: Final drive ratio (all RS4 exept MT) = gear ratio times 2.1 yadda yadda yadda... So there you go, just thought I'd share that:)

[corwin99]

I love my pro 3 for driving around my street.. I miss driving it.. its been a while. Lately its been all off-road for me.

Ah ha! That is defiantely where i got the 2.1 ratio from! I remember reading that thing too from my spur gears. I hate how stupid little tiny rocks always get into the pinion and spur gear mesh and end up stripping both the gears :\

[Vmax911]

Has anyone ever heard of the HPI VVS shock or know anything about them?

[Vmax911]

Okay, after checking out HPI's webpage, I guess the VVS shocks are what come stock. Funny, since HPI's Europe page lists them as hopups.

I got my Pro 3 used, and it appears as if the caps have been cross threaded. Any suggestions for replacing the shocks, or should I just stick with the stock replacements?

[mpyacfo]

I just ran my car in the pool! We emptied out the pool because it's getting re-plastered and I had to give it a try. Man, it was so cool. I got the car up past the pool light on the deep end, and turned so it went around the wall kind of like someone would on a skateboard. Well, my brother was begging to have a try and when I let him I guess he doesn't know how to turn OR brake. He went full throttle up the deep end of the pool and jumped it. OMG, it got about 20 feet of air and fell on the grass outside of the pool. After I was done yelling at him, I looked at the car and the only thing that broke was a body mount (which I JUST happened to have an extra one laying around) and an a-arm. I wish I would have gotten a video of it. :mad: I suggest that if any of you ever see an empty pool, try your pro 3 it's sweet! The only problem I had was the body couldn't stay on unless it was on like the top body mount otherwise it would scrape. Now, I have to try this with an offroad car and get some air!!!

[sosidge]

If the shocks have been cross threaded, just buy the bodies, don't waste money on the full shock set.

[Vmax911]

I was thinking that, but then I local shop here has them on clearance for $15 a pair.

But then I won a spec V pro 3 on E-bay, so I guess all my problems are solved :).

[nomac]

pro3 guys i need your help again...what other manuf.'s belts fit the pro3?

[corwin99]

no clue, what's wrong with the HPI ones?

[mpyacfo]

Do you think that a 116 spur and 31 pinion is too high? Thats what I have now and it's crazzzy fast. I used to have the timing on the motor set at 30 degrees but obviously it jacked it up. Now I have 10, you guys think this is okay? I'm running an Orion Core Touring modified 10x2.

[*Miller*]

I run a 116 with 36 pinion atm on a 17t, and its slow as **** :)

[nomac]

no hobby shops around here can't get 'em..."back order"

[Vmax911]

Anyone here using sway bars on their Pro 3? Or can give me tips on when to use them.

[corwin99]

nomac: why don't you try Tower Hobbies or an online seller?

vmax: typically, sway bars are used on high traction surfaces to reduce body/chassis roll and to increase the cars responsiveness to steering.

[S15Racer]

Ive come to a resolution. I'm gonna race my pro 3 until the pro 4 comes out, then I'm gonna sell the chassis, get the pro 4, and put all my elctronics in the pro 4. 2 questions: 1. How much could I ask for a pro 3 with HPI graphite upper deck and plate chassis, carbon graphite shock towers and batt brace, aluminum motor plate and shaft mount, and front one-way pully? 2. when is the pro 4 coming out and how much will it cost? on second thought, I think I'll just check the Pro 4 thread lol :D

[blacksun43]

Bought a pro3 off of ebay. Been cleaning and tweaking and just ran it on-road. When I have it on my stand, the left rear wheel isn't turning, and doesn't seem to be catching...any ideas on what it might be?

[sosidge]

Missing axle pin, seized bearings, loose diff...

[blacksun43]

the axle pin is there, how would i know if i have seized bearings...also how tight should the diff be? In the instructions it says, "The diff should spin smoothly after assembly"...how smooth? It feels smooth where the two ends spin without catching or anything, but not so freely that you can't feel the balls turning in there. Any other help?

[Vmax911]

blacksun43 -

If the diff balls are worn it may feel gritty when spinning even if it is adjusted properly. Since you can "spin the two ends" the diff beaaring must be free (assuming you spun the diff while it was in the car). Remove the entire hub and spin the CVD with your fingers. Does it spin freely? If so you bearings are most likely good.

Everyone else -

Anyone use shock bladders in place of the foam in your shocks? Also, the car comes stock with 6 and 8 degree uprights. You can also get 3 and 4 degree in a little different style. The instructions mention 8 degree is for low bite and 6 degree is for high bite. So does that mean 3 and 4 degree are for carpet only?

[sosidge]

I use bladders, it's easier to get a squeak-free shock.

Less caster give more off-power and mid corner steering, but less on power steering. You can use it on any surface you like.

[Vmax911]

Sosidge,

When you use the bladders, do you have to remove the foam first, or can you use both simultaneously? Thanks!

[sosidge]

Remove the foam, but leave the plastic spacer.

[Vmax911]

Originally posted by kameleonmn
Hi all...just got back from a race today...man what a race...everyone was bashin into one another...it looked more like demolition derby then a race...but everyone had a great time...my question is has anyone had the problem of havin the rear swing out in a tight turn?...I run Sorex 28r all around with medium hard inserts in the front and meduim soft in the rear...my suspension i'm usin the teflon number 3 with 40wt oil all around, pro linear pink springs in the rear and pro linear blue in the front. running in this set up makes my rear stick out during a hard turn in...any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...thanx.

kameleonmn -

Did you every get your car setup the way you want it? I raced mine for the fist time yesterday. We have a big parking lot track and after a high speed sweeper we come into a tight 180, and I always blew that corner. The car did well on-power, but it seemed whenever I had to let off the throttle or brake the rear end would let go as well.

[corwin99]

I was racing my Pro 3 yesterday... and I wiped out BIG into a curb while i was checking out some girls. Not cool. Anyway.. it bounced back and i continued to drive it.. it sounded fine and everything.. then i started noticing that it had a bit more understeer and it would spin out right after the apex of the turns... I couldn't figure it out.. so i just drove it like that and then went home... then when I was swapping out the tires (i thought maybe they were going bad) i noticed that the front right CVD was dangling.. then i realized that I broke the right front outdrive!! so now I gotta go buy an entire Diff Hub set just to get that stupid little outdrive.. and those diff hub sets aren't cheap either.. like $7.70 or something at rcboyz... grr.

[corwin99]

what size are the wheel locknuts on this thing? I had some extras kicking around but i need to pick up some as I just used my last one.. are they 4mm? 5mm?

[Vmax911]

corwin99-

The purple wheel nyts are sized M4, and I assume that means 4mm.

everyone-
I still trying to get my Pro 3 where I want it. I was trying to adjust my ride hieght today. I can't get the thing lower than about 9mm on either end (that's with no preload). I'm using 27mm pro linear springs and Hot Bodies carbon fiber shock towers. I'm wondering if the hopt bodies towers are lower profile than stock, and causing the high ride height. Can anyone verify this? Or is anyone else using the hotbodies towers?

Or maybe I'll have to search for my stock towers.....

[corwin99]

thanks.... yah M4 is 4mm.

[sosidge]

Yes, the hotbodies towers are the problem.

[Vmax911]

Originally posted by sosidge
Yes, the hotbodies towers are the problem.

Thanks Sosidge, looks like we can always count on you for technical support :)

[Vmax911]

Well, I swapped the HB towers for the stock ones, and suddenly my car was dropped to the ground :). Too bad really, I thought the carbon fiber towers looked cool. Does anyone know if the HPI carbon fiber towers mess up the geometry?

So here's te setup I'm going to run Saturday:

FRONT
Grey Pro Linear
50 wt. oil
10 degree caster
-1 degree camber
1 degree toe in
5mm ride height

REAR
Navy Pro Linear
40 wt. oil
-1.5 degree camber
Whatever stock toe is (2 degree?)
5mm ride height

I'm running on a pretty big track, with only two turns I'd consider sharp. Its on a newly paved parking lot, swept and sprayed with sticky stuff. Think I'm in the ballpark?

[sosidge]

That should work out as a fairly neutral, understeering setup.

The HPI towers are drilled correctly.

[Downforce]

The HPI graghite towers are the way to go. No slop in the shocks and they don't give you that ralley look. They are also thicker and don't bend when you compress your suspension. I just put these on 2 weeks ago and can't believe I waited. I bought the HB's last year due to cost and they were a waste. Anybody want them?

[Yakuza]

hi all i got a pro 3 im haveing turmble with the servo and that long link it turns to the right perfect but then i turn to the left it barlly moves and looks like it just lowers the hole link with out turn the wheels can some one tell me whats rong iv been trying to figure out why this is happen and im getting no where


-Thnx

[Vmax911]

Yakuza-

Is your servo horn straight up in the neutral position?

Everyone -

That setup worked out well for me. On another note, does anyone know of some type of clip on motor heat sink that will fit on the pro 3?

[sosidge]

Is the adjustment nut on the servo saver adjusted properly?

[Yakuza]

i got it working thinx

[Yakuza]

what are some good schocks for the pro 3 is the hb schocks good for the pro 3 or sould i just leav the shocks? im also wondering is the sway bar set worth getting?



Thnx

[S15Racer]

double post

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by Vmax911
On another note, does anyone know of some type of clip on motor heat sink that will fit on the pro 3?

I doubt any clip on heat sink would fit. theres just not enough space between the motor and the rear brace. Maybe if you ran with a graphite chassis and an upper deck, (not the HPI one though) you could lose the rear brace and fit one in, pretty much any clip on would work, the ones for most shaft drive cars would fit.

Yakuza- pretty much any TC shocks would fit. But I've bee told the stock HPI units are some of the best, if not the least troublesome.

[mpyacfo]

Are the wheels supposed to spin so freely when you get an aluminum front differential? I just installed mine, and now there is no way of braking. The car just keeps going with its momentum and I know this will be a problem when going 40 mph. Anyone know how to fix this? Thanks...

[Vmax911]

Originally posted by mpyacfo
Are the wheels supposed to spin so freely when you get an aluminum front differential? I just installed mine, and now there is no way of braking. The car just keeps going with its momentum and I know this will be a problem when going 40 mph. Anyone know how to fix this? Thanks...

That's what a front one-way does. The only braking you will have is with the rear wheels.

[nomac]

will there be any of you pro3 guys running at this year's nats?:cool:

[Vmax911]

It's amazing what a dremel, a couple sanding drums, and some time can do.

[Vmax911]

Installed, too bad it's blue.....

[corwin99]

hey that's pretty cool.. what was wrong with the pro3 motormount heatsink? is your motor really putting out that much heat?... i'd figure if my motor was getting that hot i would gear it down a bit...

[nomac]

that's just one more trick i can take with me to the nats! thanks man!:D

[Vmax911]

Originally posted by corwin99
hey that's pretty cool.. what was wrong with the pro3 motormount heatsink? is your motor really putting out that much heat?... i'd figure if my motor was getting that hot i would gear it down a bit...

HPI heatsink = $30
Blue heatsink = $0 (given to me)

Running the Reedy MVP, it did get rather hot. Heatsink dropped it about 25 degreed.

[Yakuza]

vmax what gearing do you have on your car im rujing a 87 19 right now and it seems really slow i didnt set the gear so i dont know im runing motor form p2k2 pro mvp reedy and a 19 rush


-thnx

[Vmax911]

I run a 64 pitch 35/110, which would be equivalent to you running a 28/87 in 48 pitch (which won't fit by the way). So I'm sure you could gear up quite a bit!

[Vmax911]

Hey guys-

I'm putting together my Spec V. Great kit, but most of the instructions are in Japanese. Now for the question:

What are the two set screws for near the sway bar mounts, and how should they be set?

I guess if they are turned in far enough, they will contact the swaybar and make it "stiffer?"

[sosidge]

The set screws should hold the bar snugly in place, without actually gripping it, so it rotates freely without moving back and forth.

[monyet fangkeh]

whats the different the pro3 specs and pro3 spec v?
is it just the threaded shock? and some purple parts?
thanks

[Downforce]

Originally posted by monyet fangkeh
whats the different the pro3 specs and pro3 spec v?
is it just the threaded shock? and some purple parts?
thanks
Basicly yes.

[Vmax911]

The spec V comes with most of the HPI hopups already.
All the aluminum parts except the front bulkhead.
All the carbon graphite parts except suspension arms.

Basically all the goodies (oneways, aluminum hex hubs, aluminum CVD's, swaybars, and purple stuff) except for the woven fiber parts.

[monyet fangkeh]

Originally posted by Vmax911
The spec V comes with most of the HPI hopups already.
All the aluminum parts except the front bulkhead.
All the carbon graphite parts except suspension arms.

Basically all the goodies (oneways, aluminum hex hubs, aluminum CVD's, swaybars, and purple stuff) except for the woven fiber parts. if im gonna race...which one is the best to start? the spec S or the spec V? con in my place the spec S is really cheap. i cant afford the spec V.

[Vmax911]

What is your driving experience? If your relatively new to racing, stick with the less expensive car. Learn to drive and setup the car properly, then add hopups as you need them. The spec V comes with dual oneways, which can be a handful for many (even experienced) drivers. The rest of the parts basically stiffen the car, which make proper suspension setup more critical. A stock base pro 3 is very forgiving.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by Vmax911
Installed, too bad it's blue.....


What's wrong with Blue...?

My Pro3 was Blue!!!! :D

http://groups.msn.com/RCZOMBIES/bluepro3haraeditionreplica.msnw

[Vmax911]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
What's wrong with Blue...?

My Pro3 was Blue!!!! :D



'cause my Pro 3 is NOT blue! :D

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by Vmax911
'cause my Pro 3 is NOT blue! :D

:D I've seen purple ones on ebay that look similar to the TC3's...
and I think Trinity made some in Purple there the fins are in the right direction of the airflow.... :)

you did do a good job machining the heatsink...:cool:

[monyet fangkeh]

Originally posted by Vmax911
What is your driving experience? If your relatively new to racing, stick with the less expensive car. Learn to drive and setup the car properly, then add hopups as you need them. The spec V comes with dual oneways, which can be a handful for many (even experienced) drivers. The rest of the parts basically stiffen the car, which make proper suspension setup more critical. A stock base pro 3 is very forgiving. im not raelly new with racing, i've been racing my tl01 in indoor carpet track. i think im gonna get the spec S. what will be my first hop up that i need to buy? like ball bearing, turnbuckle( cos i saw in the pic, there is no turnbuckle)

[Vmax911]

I'm not familiar with the spec-s kit (we don't have them here in the US), but bearings and turnbuckles are definitely needed. Will you be racing the Pro 3 on carpet?

[Vmax911]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
you did do a good job machining the heatsink...:cool:

I am a Dremel Master :cool:

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by monyet fangkeh
im not raelly new with racing, i've been racing my tl01 in indoor carpet track. i think im gonna get the spec S. what will be my first hop up that i need to buy? like ball bearing, turnbuckle( cos i saw in the pic, there is no turnbuckle)


If you're in the US...you are better off getting a std. Pro3 and not the Spec-S... or better yet try to find a Spec-V. Or even better Yet..buy the Hara Edition... Check Ebay there's tons of hopped-up Pro3's available at a good deal. :)

[nomac]

throw the pro 3's away and get a better car!

[*Miller*]

Originally posted by nomac
throw the pro 3's away and get a better car!

:rolleyes:

The Pro3 is a great car. Sure, not for all purposes but - who cares? Most people who have one have it set for their needs, no one elses.

[nomac]

that's all well and good, but if you acually NEED to win then this is not the car!
i'm sure lots of racers (and HPI itself) would agree that the pro3 is the biggest FLOP in the company's 20 or so year history.:mad:

[Sharkey]

it all depends on your driving style. i love my pro 3. im running stock with it and do quite well on carpet. the only upgrade i have on the car is a graphite upper deck. what i realy like is the durability of it. last weekend when i was racing at a big carpet race up here, i watched guys clean the suspention right off their tc3's and losi xxx-s's time after time. one guy did it 3 times in one day, and he is a top racer. the only thing i have ever had to replace on my car is a suspention shim, cause i lost it. in the hands of the right driver, it is a competitive car, but it has to suit your driving style. i do have to agree that it doesnt suit everyone.

i do have some upgrades planned for my car, mainly a carbon graphite chassis and a heat sink motor plate.

[nomac]

look! pure and simple.. the car's crap! even YOU have to admit that! there are no pro versions here in the US, and there's not hardly ever a big race with it in the A-main. why? nobody wants it! if it wasn't for Hara switching to HPI the car would be like a dead humpback whale washed up on a beach!

how many "pro" cars out there do you know of that were pulled from the shelves in less than 2 years? huh? say something?...i thought so.

so if the car personnaly suits you then you don't have high expectations!

[Downforce]

Originally posted by nomac
look! pure and simple.. the car's crap! even YOU have to admit that! there are no pro versions here in the US, and there's not hardly ever a big race with it in the A-main. why? nobody wants it! if it wasn't for Hara switching to HPI the car would be like a dead humpback whale washed up on a beach!

how many "pro" cars out there do you know of that were pulled from the shelves in less than 2 years? huh? say something?...i thought so.

so if the car personnaly suits you then you don't have high expectations!

Thats funny...I seem to have put almost 2 laps on the field today in my pro 3.

HPI did what any company does when they are close to releasing a new car, quit making them and dump them cheap. Just like the big three at the end of a model year. It's only smart business.

And as far as their cars in the "A"'s. Hired drivers drive what they are paid to. HPI had no factory drivers on their pay role before Hara. Why do you think any of the manufactures hire drivers? bueler....bueler...thats what I thought you're to slow with your lip...win on sunday and sell on monday. Maybe you should go back to your 4-tec forum.

lap ya later....

[wiseman]

Ready to sell mine with all the hop ups on it, my rally is faster, then the Pro 3 car

[Sharkey]

Originally posted by nomac
look! pure and simple.. the car's crap! even YOU have to admit that!
so if the car personnaly suits you then you don't have high expectations!

first off, i dont have to admit that, cause i dont belive it is. and yes i do have high expectations. i have driven other cars before i bought my pro 3. i spent a lot of time playing with a guys tc3, trying to make it to my liking, and i couldnt get it dialed to my liking. i also broke a couple a-arms. after the first time driving the pro 3 i loved it. it just suits my driving

now i want to know something. have you even driven a pro 3??? have you set one up and spent some time with it??? and what do you even race??? or do you even race???

[Vmax911]

Is this turning into a "this is better than that thread?" Because we all know those are pointless.

As far as I'm concerned, any car can be a winner with the right driver. Everyone has different driving style and different cars suit those styles differently (like Sharkey said). So which car is best depends on the guy behind the wheel.

I will say this, I have noticed on thing about HPI cars, they are very durable. I race both nitro and electric sedan, and other brands of car tend to break much more than the HPI's (and those other cars belong to top drivers at the track as well). Oh yeah, and HPI's took 1st and second in both classes as well. :)

[Sharkey]

the main reson i run hpi is because of the durability. in the last 3 years i have only broken 2 a-arms and a couple of steering knuckles on my nitro rs4, and i havnt broken a thing on my pro 3 in since i got it 8 months ago. they are exremly tough cars, and will take an absolute beating. the main design with most of their cars is for noobs, and noobs hit lots of stuff.

[S15Racer]

Word to Nomac- if your going to go and say stuff like that about this car, this is the wrong thread for you- period. This thread is about tuning and racing pro 3's, so if you want to go and bash them fine, but do it somewhere else. Cause no one here should have to put up with this kind of crap.:rolleyes:

Now that thats out of the way, RC Zombies, glad your back, for the moment anyway. I've been curious about the pro 4 for months but no one is talking in the pro 4 thread. So I figured I'd ask the man who knows all lol. Can you tell me when its going on sale, I want to sell my pro 3 and get one asap. thanx

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by S15Racer
Word to Nomac- if your going to go and say stuff like that about this car, this is the wrong thread for you- period. This thread is about tuning and racing pro 3's, so if you want to go and bash them fine, but do it somewhere else. Cause no one here should have to put up with this kind of crap.:rolleyes:

Now that thats out of the way, RC Zombies, glad your back, for the moment anyway. I've been curious about the pro 4 for months but no one is talking in the pro 4 thread. So I figured I'd ask the man who knows all lol. Can you tell me when its going on sale, I want to sell my pro 3 and get one asap. thanx


I'll get shot if I told you...:D

[nomac]

ok guys maybe i was a little harsh. yes i've driven the pro3 and yes i race! i've been on the track with the best rc drivers in the world (save masami) and i've held my own.

i didn't say hpi cars i general suck, i just said the pro3 does.all of "my" major A-main wins have been hpi. but all i'm saying is after the pro2 car, hpi started going downhill. and no.... they didn't pull the pro3 because of the new car....they pulled it because it didn't sell or "...meet up to our expectations."
so now the pro4 is soon to come and guess what it looks like.
and in any case...what's gonna be more durable? a tank or an F1 car? the answer: [bing!] B, Chuck! sure the tc3's and the like are gonna be more brittle but they ARE FASTER!!! the facts don't lie!!

but check this!!! the pro3 is not a top level car, so the not-so-top-level guys can race it, bash it, and it'll still come back for more. but the "other" cars are just like the F1 deals: incredibly fast...nimble...but not so tough. so in essence...you drive a better car better...you won't break anything! i'm not a big fan of the others eigther, but i at least want to be competitive, thats all. so until the pro4 comes out...it'll be the tc3 or x-ray for now.

:cool:

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
I'll get shot if I told you...:D

Well can you at least give us a vague idea, like, is it within the next say 3 months? Oh and I never fully understood your affiliation with HPI, do you work there, or are you just friends with Frank McKinnely (sp) or what.

oh well, thanx for any info you can safely release:D

[nomac]

the pro4 will be a huge hit! even moreso on the local level....can't wait!

[Sharkey]

anyways, back to the pro 3.

does anyone know if there is a clip on motor heat sink that will fit the pro 3??? i know there is next to no room for one, but is there something that fits??? if not, does the hpi heat sink motor mount help with heat??? id like to get something to keep the heat down (not that it gets that hot).

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by Sharkey
anyways, back to the pro 3.

does anyone know if there is a clip on motor heat sink that will fit the pro 3??? i know there is next to no room for one, but is there something that fits??? if not, does the hpi heat sink motor mount help with heat??? id like to get something to keep the heat down (not that it gets that hot).


simply not enough room for a clip on heatsink..
yes the heatsink motor mount does help...but not enough..
like the big name pro racers...you can always put a fan on top of the motor.:)

[Sharkey]

i could do that, but likly wont. im gonna go to my hobby shop today nad see if they have a heat sink motor mount. mainly, i like the idea of the motor and the layshaft being on one solid chunck of metal.

to bad there isnt enough room to get a fan on the endbell, like shown on the team orion v2 motor.

[Vmax911]

Look at my post on the last page.

[Downforce]

Or you can try this. I did this when all we had to run was the super hot mvp.

[Vmax911]

Hey guys, my Pro 3 is the first car I've had with threaded shocks. Now, the idea with preload is to set the appropriate ride height, right? Because when set ride height on all four corners independently, the preload is noiceable different from right to left. Is this okay? I've always set the preload equal on side to side, but then again I've never accurately checked ride height.

[Downforce]

Originally posted by Vmax911
Hey guys, my Pro 3 is the first car I've had with threaded shocks. Now, the idea with preload is to set the appropriate ride height, right? Because when set ride height on all four corners independently, the preload is noiceable different from right to left. Is this okay? I've always set the preload equal on side to side, but then again I've never accurately checked ride height.

Yes, your correct. I'm betting your not running an upper chassis brace, tieing in the front and rear bulkheads. Both my cars had tweak untill I changed to the new woven graphite tub chassis and PRP upper brace.

[Vmax911]

I haven't put an upper deck on. With all the carbon graphite it actually feels pretty stiff. I hadn't thought of the tweak issue though.....

[Sharkey]

the tweak on my car is horible. i have about 1/4 turn in one shock, and 1/4" in the other!!! im looking to get a woven graphite chassis soon to stiffen it up, the graphite upper deck doesnt stiffen it enough for me on carpet.

[Yakuza]

Hi all there seems to be somthing wrong with my pro 3 its alot slower then my friends car his is a sprint and we are useing the same motor 19t rush the pro 3 make a sound like it not griping the floor or revin reeallly high b4 it takes off but its slow can anyone give me an idea whats wrong with it, its slow but not that slow it can keep behind the sprint form about 2 cars behind it, handel alot better then the sprint but just not as fast could it be cuz its heavy?


-Thnx
-D

[sosidge]

I reckon your problem is either slipping differentials (need tightening), or a gear ratio that's much lower than the sprints (your pinion is too small or your spur is too large).

[Sharkey]

yea it sould be your diffs slipping. when was the last time they were checked???

as for gearing, figure out what the sprint has for a final gear ratio. heres how

(spur gear / pinion) X (diff pully / other pully)

thats will give you final gearing. or you could just go here http://pagina.netc.pt/~nc13169a/index.html and punch all th numbers in. the just stick in your diff and pulley numbers (36-16, its a 2.25 ratio), and play with the pinion gear till it gives you a close final drive ratio.

[Yakuza]

yeah it was the rear diff i got it all working now but i have another Q i bot the HPI Titanium Suspension Shaft Set Pro 3 but they come out a bit after a few runs do they do that or do i need to lock them down some how? i can now beat my friend sprint now thnx for your help

[Downforce]

Originally posted by Yakuza
yeah it was the rear diff i got it all working now but i have another Q i bot the HPI Titanium Suspension Shaft Set Pro 3 but they come out a bit after a few runs do they do that or do i need to lock them down some how? i can now beat my friend sprint now thnx for your help

You should have set screws in the knuckles to keep them from sliding out. Make sure they are still there.

[Vmax911]

Dab a bit of shoe goo on the ends of the shafts. Let that dry overnite and they will stay put.

[sosidge]

The titanium shafts have little grooves in them that need to be lined up with the set screws to stop them coming out. You shouldn't need any shoo goo on them

[iceracer6x]

hey guys i have a ? for all ya.

y do ppl think that the pro 3 sucks so bad

i bought one from someone who thinked it sucked and he went and bought a tc3 and now im killin him

im runnin right up front with everyone else and they are runnin graphite xxxs's and team tc3's and and one guy even runs a fully decked out xray. well if you guys could help me out that be great!

thanks guys tony

[Sharkey]

here we go again..... try reading the previous posts.

anyways, its cause of the chassis flex. people like a solid car. i love the pro 3, cause the flex works to my advantage. im still a newer driver, and the flexyness helps soak up the mistakes of my driving, and makes up for a not perfect setup. with a graphite chassis and upper deck, the car can be as solid as anything else.

unfortunetly, so many people see a car the way it comes out of the box, not what it can be with a bit of tweaking. everyone thinks a nitro rs4 cant be competitive, but i made mine run with the best of them, after some hop ups and tweaking.

[nomac]

the pro3 is a good car. but to make it a GREAT car , you have to spend too much in order to fix...WAY too much! by that time you could have bought 2 or even 3 GREAT cars. now i do agree with some of your post. i think some guys spend too much on great cars to make them better and all they do is make them worse.

the stock a/e, xray, or losi have all the torsional rigidity any guy could want! why get every graphite piece they can find?! (especially new guys) this only makes them brittle and therefor not fun race.

but all in all, it's up to the individual. whatever you can tune baby have at it!!! ya, i know i ragged the pro3 quite a bit but it wasn't TOTALY the car...:rolleyes:

let's just say the i got a futaba 3pk-PCM/27 band coming. along with the MC800 speedo and ALL crystals. new servos and the lot. gp 3300's. quad magnet epics and a new chassis. (don't know which one though) if the pro4 comes out before cleveland then that will be my only choice.

i kinda knew better ya know? running a duratrax speedo with 2400's & 2000's in a national event! and runnig mod to boot! oh did i tell you that the modar was a 7 year old tri-rotor? the chassis of choice.... a used pro3 in stock trim! i bought it for only $60...but by the time i got all the hop-ups and stiff stuff, i could've got a full-option ride elsewhere.

[wiseman]

I have one with all kinds of hop up parts on it, but very unhappy with it, I have a rally with the same kind of hop up parts on itand it does circles and the pro 3 for speed, want to sell the car for 85.oo, I thought they where suppose to be faster, but its not,:mad: :mad:

[S15Racer]

I hate when people say that one car is better than another because its faster:rolleyes: Speed has nothing to do with the design of the car, it is determined by the motor and electronics. I could take a 4tec and put a 6turn mod in it with 3300s and beat an X ray with a stock motor. But set those cars up equally and see which one handles better:rolleyes:

[nomac]

nope...sorry bub....the pro3 really does S*UCK a lemon. i've driven some of the best electric kits out there since 1985 and the pro3....(see above).

the hpi tourers started out as toys/sportsman vehicles. not hardcore racers. the pro and the pro2 nearly squashed that rep. but the pro3 showed everyone that hpi went more for ground breaking enovatiuons than world level competition.

face it Racer....sucky cars CAN be built and this was one of them!i bet 'cha , now, that hpi will NEVER go back down that road again:cool:

[Sharkey]

nomac, why do you spend your life trying to convince people that the pro 3 is a bad car??? or is it the fact that you have no life???sure the pro 3 isnt the best car, but it isnt the worst car out there. it works just fine for me, and just fine for other. sure it wont win nationals, but its a great car for club racing.

now why dont you go get a life and stop insulting the cars that many of us race.

[S15Racer]

Allright nomac, I'll admit that the pro 3 is not a great car. I'll admit that it not competitive on the world level. I'll even admit that I'm getting a pro 4 to race instead of my pro 3 as soon as it comes out. But for the love of all that is sane, will you take your flaming the pro 3 to a different thread! Start one up in the Electric forum if you wish, and I wont come in there and flame you for not liking the pro 3. Just keep your anti pro 3 coments out of the thread where all the pro 3 racers come to talk about making it better.

[Sharkey]

[i can also admit that one day ill end up with a tc3, cause i just bought a nitro tc3. but untill i can win races several times in a season, i dont think im competitive enough as a driver to use a more competitive car.

the pro 3 is great for what im doing, and i love it.

[nomac]

i'm not bashing...just stating a fact. it's just like saying grace jones is a "holly berrie" when it's not true. sure people will appreciate her, but let's face it! that woman is uh-ga-lee!

[Sharkey]

wether a car sucks or not is someones opinion, not a fact. there is no great book of rc written by the rc gods that says "pro 3, sucky car, biggest blunder in rc". imo, its a good car, in your opinion, its not. this is not a fact.

[S15Racer]

lol I just solved my glitching problem that I've had for like 8 months! It turns out all I had to do was turn the reciever on its side:rolleyes: :D Oh well at least my car is finally drivable again.

just thought I'd throw that in in the hopes of changing the topic in this thread:rolleyes:

[Sharkey]

hey thats good, glitching sucks. i was having problems a while ago with my gas car, and it turned out to be the servo was junk.

[S15Racer]

Hmmm, I just talked to a guy at the track yesterday that had that problem. His car was glitching really bad, and it turned out it was his servo screwing everything up, the throttle and the steering:eek:

On a different topic, I got to drive on a real asphault track for the frst time yesterday. My indor carpet track built one outside in part of their parking lot. It awesome, just like a professional track, smaller though lol. Ran my pro 3 out there with my 10 turn mod, that was pretty fun:D too bad my car was glitching or I wouldv'e been able to really open'r up:cool: RThat was the first time I ran my 10 turn on a track acually, i'd tried running it on the carpet track, but thats just to small. Well that pretty much all for me:)

[nomac]

racer...was the crystal sitting hi or low? i tried a lot of configurations and nothing worked. it turnes out that all i needed to do was wire in a 1000 uF 35v power capicitor to my speedo and that fixed it.

i thought i would need to buy more expensive radio equipment, but thank God that i olny spent around $.86:D

[S15Racer]

Well my esc's a GT7 so it comes with a capaciter already installed. I think its my motor, cause I put my P2K back in it today and it glitches again:mad: It could also be my R Xtals, but I dont have any other sets to try.

Would it be bad if I cut the comm on my P2K? I know you dont really need to for stock motors but it wouldn't hurt anything if I did right? I'm just thinking that might be the problem.

:confused:

[nomac]

cutting the com shouldn't hurt all. having a rounder/truer com may reduce brush bounce and cut down on glitching. but be careful of the size...use dial calipers to check that it's over .273 inches.

but a lot of racers here remove the factory capacitors and use standard ones. how does that GT7 work anyway? i REALLY need new radio equipment and i was looking at the GT7, dually, mc 800, v-extreme (keyence), and the 7.1(lrp) to use with a futaba 3pk or the jr xs3.

my am radio lasted for years...i want to be sure to buy the same quality gear as before. any hints?


thanks.

[Vmax911]

I've been very happy with JR radio's. I had an XR3 for a long time, upgraded to an XS3 about five months ago. Never had a problem with either.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by S15Racer
...Would it be bad if I cut the comm on my P2K? I know you dont really need to for stock motors but it wouldn't hurt anything if I did right? I'm just thinking that might be the problem.

:confused:

What do you mean you "dont need to" cut a comm on a stock motor???????? :confused: That was the point of "rebuildable" stock motors, so you can do the needed maintenance - i.e., cutting a comm, cleaning -

Depending on you driving style, you should be cutting the comm every 5th or 6th race (and that's consertative), most guys I race with cut the stock comms every 3rd run :eek:

On a different note, anyone have any good set-ups for racing the Pro3 on a smooth asphalt surface???

[S15Racer]

What? That sounds like the maintinance (sp) you'd do on a low turn mod motor, not a stock??? I thought the point of being rebuildable is to be able to change brushes and springs and clean out inside the can. If you cut the comm on your stock motor that much it wouldn't last any longer than a hot mod armature.

:confused: :rolleyes: :confused:

Nomac- the GT7 works great, its prolly more than I need at the moment (only ever use 2 of the profiles, never the custom one:D ) But it does have some good features, the signal checking system is a good thing. And all novaks anti glitching/anti overheat bla bla bla is in there too:D What I've found interesting is that the agressive mod profileworks the best for me when running a mod OR a stock motor.

[Sharkey]

i cut the comm on my stock motor after every race, and during big races i cut it after qualifying before the mains. i can notice a differance between a fresh stock motor and one that has been run for a race. thing with a stock motor is when you cut the comm, you take very little off compared to a mod motor. the stock motor doesnt warp it as much.

basicly the rebuildable stock motors are like mod motors. they have their differances (laydown brushes, smaller com, fixed timing) but they are still the same sort of idea.

[S15Racer]

Well OK I guess I'll just go and do that then:D
its so nice having my own comm lathe

[nomac]

k_bojar...use the stock set-up at first. if you have the "normal" chassis, ( no aftermarket stuff at all) try going up 5 points on the oil.
but as you get "bored" with that set-up then use tc3 gold springs in the front with 40wt and keep the stock silvers in the rear with 40wt.

and when you add the carbon chassis and stiffeners...(let's just say the grafhite works) you may want to try hpi navy springs all around and play with 10 points higher on the shock oil.

this worked really well for me here in durham,nc (home of the 2003 roar nats) car was stable all around plus the car was KILLER in the chicaine area. but with a front spool, the car was a hair on the tight side.

[nomac]

oh...i also used the 0 degree option on the front a-arm mount. and i then moved the front hub forward .5 to 1 mm. lmk if i can be of more service.

[S15Racer]

Hey guys, cut my comm- stoped the glitching! Wish you had told me this 6 months ago:rolleyes: :D Well acually it didn't completely stop glitching, but I have a feeling if I replace the brushes it should take care of the rest of it (didn't have an extra set handy today) Also cut the comm on my P94 and 3 new sets of brushes are on the way for that so I have a feeling my glitching days are over, for now:rolleyes:

Nomac- I do have one complaint about the GT7 after today. The brackets that hold the capaciter to the mounts on the ESC case have worn out on mine and now the capaciter keeps falling out and dragging on the road (it's since been relocated) It got scuffed up pretty good though lol

[xtreme]

Just wanted to let you all know I am retard who can't read the rules.

[ALJR]

Hey, I'm pretty stupid too. I've been a member here for a while and probably know the rules, but choose to ignore them when it's for my benefit.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

I thought there is no selling or any hints of selling on this thread?

[S15Racer]

Let alone the entire HPI forum:rolleyes:

Sorry dude, but I dont think anyone wants your shocks...

[ALJR]

Originally posted by S15Racer
Let alone the entire HPI forum:rolleyes:

Sorry dude, but I dont think anyone wants your shocks...

then don't buy them!

[xtreme]

Sorry if I broke any rules. I didn't put the entire for sale text in here for a reason, just a link. If it is indeed a problem, I give my blessing to the moderator to remove my post and I will not be upset.

Sorry,

Scott

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by ALJR
then don't buy them!

Wasn't planning on it. Acually they're not bad, and my car needs new shocks, just dont have the $$$ right now:D

[sickdrummer]

i have a question.
i am using a PK2 pro stock motor and i have 3 sets of 3000 batts nimi. and my batts seem to dump real quick in my pro 3
but not in my
tamiya mini with stock tamiya motor(i get 56 min with this thing with my 3000 packs)timed it with my transmitter.

are there any ideas on what can be wrong? i have a tekin g12 c 3 in my pro 3
pcm 1024 rec. all stock set up.and i use 12 gauge wire. any hints will be great
thanks in advance
Paul

[Sharkey]

well, a tamiya mini is smaller, lighter, and likely has a smaller motor (not a 540) in it. they dont draw much current, so it will last a long time.

now the pro 3 is a touring car. it weighs more, and the p2k2 will draw a lot more current than the mini. it should get more than 8 minutes runtime with the pro 3. i get 10 minutes with my 3000, p2k2 pro in my pro 3.

[sickdrummer]

really thats it? damn i get more than 10 min out of mine but it seems like well at least i thought i would get more with the 3000's. it felt like my 2000's got more run time. well your probly right but the tamiya motor is a 540 just the stock silver can motor it came with i guess i got to used to that
and my tamiya tractor trailer which pulls a heavy load with full light kit and sound with the stock 540 siver can motor it came with and i get even longer run times with that like 1hr and 10 min was the top so far.
but like it said before your probly right. maybe i need to update my ESC .
Do you think more foward amps would help?
thanks again for your response
Paul

[S15Racer]

Dude! 56min of runtime!?! thats insane, thats like radiocrap runtime! Awesome though. Yeah I have a P2K in my pro 3 and get about 10min with my 3000s. Its normal, the stock motor has a higher amp draw than the silver can, so it has more power but doesn't run as long. But man, 56 min of runtime!?!

:eek: :D :eek:

[sickdrummer]

dude i kid you not with the run time. shocked me too. and with my tractor trailer i get at least 1 hr out of it with 3000 and about 45 min with 2000s i timed it 3 times in a row and very consistant but i use 12 guage,light speed conectors the top of the line esc's with the least resistance and a awsome peak charger and i condition my batts all the time so they last me a long time, i still have 1700s that last me a hella long time in my tractor even with the lights and sound going. and pulling the trailer which is the flatbed one. so it amazes me but i had others here to see it especially today. my friend was amazed too.
lata
Paul

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

Originally posted by hypertech
The flex in this car is worse than anything I have ever seen.....sure you can put an HB upperdeck on it but then you have to tear the deck off all the time to get the batts out...and you gotta just love the flex in the suspension...yuk....HPI messed up on this car big time !! Wish I had kept my Pro 2...was way better than Pro 3 by far but I'm really tired of HPI's upgrade game and poor designs :(

I am putting mine up for sale and getting something else, maybe an RC Labs 7Even 6.0 or Kyosho KX 1....

agreed 100% PRO 3 SUCKS. once i saw and ran the PRO 3 i stuck with the PRO 2. i wish HPI kept the same design as the PRO 2 but thought of easier design. such as easier access to the diffs. i mean it only takes me 5 min to take the diffs out on my pro 2 but it would be nice if it was just a few screws and then done.

i am not sure about the pro 4 cause of the batteries being on one side so the car may sway, when the batts were evenly assorted in the pro 2 it is nice, easy to drive nice and even. i am still not sure about buying the pro 4..lol i might keep on running along with my pro 2..its been kicking ass till this day!

[Sharkey]

not another one...

this is supposed to be a forum to help people with their cars. saying the pro 3 sucks isnt helping anything. you guys need to pull your head out of your backside and realize that.

[Downforce]

I agree. But first they must know the difference between their head and their backside!:)

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by Sharkey
not another one...

this is supposed to be a forum to help people with their cars. saying the pro 3 sucks isnt helping anything. you guys need to pull your head out of your backside and realize that.


I agree.... there's was a ton of bashing when the car was released... we don't need to hear it again. When I had my Hara Pro3 I can keep up with the best cars out there....

Now that the Pro4 is just months away.... We are all hear to help each other out. :)

[sickdrummer]

sharkey is right.

ps i think the pro 3 is a great car has been good to me so far.
cant wait for the pro 4 want one of those

[nomac]

the pro 4 will more than make up for the pro 3...trust me!

it will see more local and national "A" mains than the pro 3 ever had! (including that one-off special edition, Hara version). the pro 4 will be fast, even without the "morph- mods".

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

yea you are right we all are racing with HPI so we do need to stick together....ok so the TC3 sucks ass...lololol jk

now about the PRO 4, the only thing that actually is worrying me is sway. with all the weight from the batts on one side of the car will cause sway, i drove the TC3 and it didnt grow onto me..probably cause i am too use to the PRO 2, that may be my real problem right there..lol but the designs of the pro 4 look identicle to the tc3.

dont get me wrong i think it looks sweet in those pics but right now in my eyes it is all show no go. but i am thinking the reason behind this design is for brushless motor systems..hmmmm if you have noticed they have found near perfect results coming from the tc3 with brushless motor systems...but who knows i am going off on a rampage here. but i think that is one of the reasons for hpi coming out with shaft and no more belts (i like the belts) so it will be more efficient with high speeds. who knows...lol but i garuntee you it was brought up! i am starting to look for some nice brushless systems here pretty soon, i think it is going to be the new way here pretty soon for R/C. good bye nitro and brushes...lolol

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by JIMMYBANGBANG
yea you are right we all are racing with HPI so we do need to stick together....ok so the TC3 sucks ass...lololol jk

now about the PRO 4, the only thing that actually is worrying me is sway. with all the weight from the batts on one side of the car will cause sway, i drove the TC3 and it didnt grow onto me..probably cause i am too use to the PRO 2, that may be my real problem right there..lol but the designs of the pro 4 look identicle to the tc3.

....


yea the TC3 sucks... even though I had for a few year..never did seriously race it...just gathered dust on the shelf. :(

On the Pro4 I don't think you'll have to worry about sway ( Torque Steer ) The layout is similar to the new YOK SD and Cuda R2 ( Pro4 is based on the R2 ). I race the SD and it's very well balance... no signes of Torque Steer and drive extremely quiet like a belt car. Can't wait for the Hara Edition Pro4 to be released... it will definately kick some butt. :D

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

thats sounds sweet. i am wanting to see how it runs..heard many good things about it, just not sure if it will live up to the hype.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by JIMMYBANGBANG
thats sounds sweet. i am wanting to see how it runs..heard many good things about it, just not sure if it will live up to the hype.

Yea we all hope the car is as good as HPI claims ... but I won't be first in line to get it.... I'll probably wait a few months and see what other racers are saying.

In the mean time....going to sell my SD and Xray..
about to get the Cuda R2 Webspecial with tools.. :D :D

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=423739

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

now that is bad..i like that car it looks sweet, but i never drove that car so i cant say it drives as good as it looks. hope you post some results for me so i can jump on the band wagon..lol

if you dont mind me asking but how much did you drop for that car? if you dont want everybody to see you can email me. just curious, looks exspensive but looks well worth the cash on that note:D

[Sharkey]

thats a nice car. how does she drive??? it looks a bit on the heavy side with all that aluminum. the orange is kinda cool, you dont see that color to much.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by Sharkey
thats a nice car. how does she drive??? it looks a bit on the heavy side with all that aluminum. the orange is kinda cool, you dont see that color to much.


Don't want to get off track...since this is HPI forum.

Should drive or handle better than the SD.... I yet to recieve the car...should be arriving in the next couple of weeks.... With all the aluminum...I've been told it's underweight when race ready.

[S15Racer]

RCZombies- you have that new yok... Is it the one with the silver graphite or just regular? How much did that cost BTW, cause its seems really similar to the Pro 4, feature and matirials wise, I'm trying to guestimate a price here.

I read that the SSG version is like $330, so I'm really hopin thats just for the graphite and not the car itself. thanx:)

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

Originally posted by S15Racer
RCZombies- you have that new yok... Is it the one with the silver graphite or just regular? How much did that cost BTW, cause its seems really similar to the Pro 4, feature and matirials wise, I'm trying to guestimate a price here.

I read that the SSG version is like $330, so I'm really hopin thats just for the graphite and not the car itself. thanx:)

i dont know if you have noticed but this is a forum for the pro 3 so dont go off subject here about a totally different kit...hahaha :rolleyes:

[S15Racer]

I imagine you'll have recieved my email by now...

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

yea i did...:D

[kameleonmn]

Hi all...yea its been awhile since I came here...but at my last race I couldn't keep up with any of the other racers in my group. Granted I moved from Sportsman to Stock but these guys are flyin like the wind that I thought they were all usin modifieds. My question is does matched cells, direct solder joints, and a racing esc make all the difference?...I've only started racing since last september so I can't say i'm knowledgeable in every aspect. I'm plannin on buy some matched cells and switch to deans plugs or a straight solder joint but using my current esc which is a futuba mc330...if not then maybe a intellispeed pro racing esc. I like my pro 3...but i'm also plannin on getting either a sea lab or x-ray...maybe i'll just wait for the pro 4...BTW, did you guys know that on a hot day when the track gets pretty warmed up...a good set of hpi racing treads works wonders...even better then slicks...which alot of the other racers was askin what i was usin.
I use the pro radials on the front and super radials on the rear. Well i'm out.

[Downforce]

Originally posted by kameleonmn
Hi all...yea its been awhile since I came here...but at my last race I couldn't keep up with any of the other racers in my group. Granted I moved from Sportsman to Stock but these guys are flyin like the wind that I thought they were all usin modifieds. My question is does matched cells, direct solder joints, and a racing esc make all the difference?...I've only started racing since last september so I can't say i'm knowledgeable in every aspect. I'm plannin on buy some matched cells and switch to deans plugs or a straight solder joint but using my current esc which is a futuba mc330...if not then maybe a intellispeed pro racing esc. I like my pro 3...but i'm also plannin on getting either a sea lab or x-ray...maybe i'll just wait for the pro 4...BTW, did you guys know that on a hot day when the track gets pretty warmed up...a good set of hpi racing treads works wonders...even better then slicks...which alot of the other racers was askin what i was usin.
I use the pro radials on the front and super radials on the rear. Well i'm out.

A quaility esc will be a HUGH difference. The batteries would be the next step. Deans vs direct solder? Direct solder is by far better. For a beginner, deans are the way to go.

[aspiringrcracer710]

I am getting a RS4 Pro 3 in a trade. whats the baseline outdoor parking lot setup? also, Im putting a P2K2 in it. what is good gearing to start with for that?

[Downforce]

Originally posted by aspiringrcracer710
I am getting a RS4 Pro 3 in a trade. whats the baseline outdoor parking lot setup? also, Im putting a P2K2 in it. what is good gearing to start with for that?

100 spur/33-36 pinion

Are you running the pro 3 box stock?

[aspiringrcracer710]

Its got every Hara option part except for the chassis. Im probably going to get something to stiffen the chassis though. Other than that, Im running it as I get it.

[kameleonmn]

I can't decide...I just got a look at the Alex Racing Barracuda R2...what a sweet ride. So now my fret is...I want to get this kit especially the blue one...but I also want to get the pro 4 if and when it comes out. It would be cool to see RC car action do a Comparison test of all the shaft 4WD touring cars i.e. TC-3, Yoko, Evo III, Alex Racing 'cuda R2, and the Pro 4. Well, either way I'll get to enjoy driving and racing a cool car...but for now i'm content on my humble pro 3 :D Alex Racing Barracuda R2

[k_bojar]

Anyone know of a good mod motor set-up for parking lot racing with HPI tires?? and a good starting point for 48P gears and a 14x3 motor??

The car isnt exactly stock - carbon chassis (not the new one), penguin upper deck, HPI motor brace, HPI front & rear shock towers

Thanks

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by kameleonmn
I can't decide...I just got a look at the Alex Racing Barracuda R2...what a sweet ride. So now my fret is...I want to get this kit especially the blue one...but I also want to get the pro 4 if and when it comes out. It would be cool to see RC car action do a Comparison test of all the shaft 4WD touring cars i.e. TC-3, Yoko, Evo III, Alex Racing 'cuda R2, and the Pro 4. Well, either way I'll get to enjoy driving and racing a cool car...but for now i'm content on my humble pro 3 :D Alex Racing Barracuda R2

They tried something like that before...But it only included the TC3, EVO III and the Academy car...RCCA has some nice "shoot outs" but I think they tend to be too tainted with advertiser influence...Like the 8th scale RTR shoot-out, RCCA included the Lightning RR RTR (but not the Pro - a better buggy) against the likes of Hyper 7's and things...Advertiser influence :)

So understanding (or using) that theory, you'll never see a "true" shoot-out of all available cars in a certain genre of racing...Kinda a shame :(

[microrcdude]

Incase none of you have noticed, this is the pro 3 thread, notthe alex racing cars thread. They have their own thread in the misc. section. oh, this also isn't a "pro 3 is bad" thread. it's a thread for pro 3 owners to help eachother out.

[kameleonmn]

Yes, everyone...I must part with my Pro 3. It has brought me much enjoyment during my racing seasons. I put alot of time and effort into and have had alot of help from this thread...but alas its a hobby that i must part with for now...Its too hard to keep up with my racing and my college schoolwork. It's up for bid on ebay...just about everything I own for it is goin along with it. Maybe when i'm done with my schooling i'll pick it back up...i simply love it. Yup...she's (my Pro3) gonna sacrifice to donate for my books. Hopefully by then the Pro 4 will be widely available...so til I race again...peace...OUT.

[Sharkey]

that always sucks, selling your hobby to get books:( .

anyways guys im starting to think about getting my pro 3 ready for carpet season. my car is pretty much stock other than for an upper deck and aluminum shocks. last season, my lap times were about .7 second average slower than other guys good laps in sportsman, but i was very consistant lap to lap, so i did pretty well (most other cars were mildly hopped up tc3 kits). im looking at moving into stock this year, and id like to get that .7 second back. what hop ups do you guys think are most important (keep in mind im not buying another car, so if thats your answer, dont even post) here is what im looking at.

-carbon fiber chassis
-heat sink engine mount
-carbon fider shock towers
-titanium turnbuckles
-aluminum screws
-aluminum spur gear mount

my car is very heavy (2 onces) and id like to get the weight out of it. is there anything that you can trim weight off without losing durability???i realy want to make my pro 3 competitive (i made an rs4 2 beat serpants, so why cant i make a pro 3 beat tc3's???). here is what im running:

-lrp quantum sport
-nuclear power 3000
-monster stock (going back to a p2k2 pro)

and is there anything i can do to make the drivtrain more efficient???

[S15Racer]

Yeah, I'm gonna be parting with my pro 3 too:o I'm set on the pro 4 and I can't afford to have 2 cars right now (yeah I know its sad) I'm gonna buy the pro 4 as a chistmas present for myself and use the money from the pro 3 for a few new battery packs (Im in dire need of new batts) Hopefully the pro4 will be all its cracked up to be. I really wanted to be running the 3 and the 4 in stock and mod class, but funds aren't sufficient:o

Speaking of that, does anyone want to make a donation to the S15Racer RC Foundation?

[S15Racer]

Hey Sharkey, looks like your post just beat mine lol. I'd say do all the carbon fiber you can do, that'll lighten in up bigtime. And the heat sink motor plate is a good idea too. I dont really see the need for Ti turnbuckle or aluminum screws though? I've had all the stock hardware for 2 years and never broken or bent any of it. I'd say save your money there and spend it on more tuning accessories and gears, unless your pretty well off in that area. I run HPI 23R slicks and peak firm blue inserts for carpet and they work great. Well thats all I can think of, good luck:)

[Sharkey]

ive got plenty of springs (i have an EA spring kit for my gas car) and plenty of oils. the titanium turnbuckles are a streanth thing, plus they look cool. as for screws, you would be amazed how much a set of aluminum screws weight compared to the stock steel ones. that and they look cool.

[Vmax911]

As for lightening the car, check out the HPI carbon graphite parts trees. They are lighter and stiffer than the composite plastic used. If you're really serious about weight, you can get the carbon graphite shock towers. They are cheaper than the CF ones and you don't need all the extra aluminum and screws for mounting hardware. But they don't look as cool :(

[Sharkey]

what about the chassis plate. im looking at the flat one with the 2 wings for the electronics. should i get that or the moulded carbon graphite one???

[S15Racer]

Yeah I have the carbon graphite shock towers. They dont look near as cool as the woven ones, but their half the cost of one woven tower and you get both towers, the batt brace, front and rear braces, and batt brace mount.

About the chassis- that depends on what you want- if you have large (er) electronics the plate chassis prolly isn't good cause theres not very much space to mount stuff. I have a GT7 esc and an airtronics mini FM rx (mounted on its side) and they barly fit!On the other hand, the tub chassis is like twice the cost- it does win the bench racing contest though...

:D

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by S15Racer
Yeah, I'm gonna be parting with my pro 3 too:o I'm set on the pro 4 and I can't afford to have 2 cars right now (yeah I know its sad) I'm gonna buy the pro 4 as a chistmas present for myself and use the money from the pro 3 for a few new battery packs (Im in dire need of new batts) Hopefully the pro4 will be all its cracked up to be. I really wanted to be running the 3 and the 4 in stock and mod class, but funds aren't sufficient:o

Speaking of that, does anyone want to make a donation to the S15Racer RC Foundation?

S15Racer..

Sorry to hear you'll be parting with your Pro3.. I know you put alot of work and effort into the car. My advice... if you're going to wait til Christmas to get the Pro4... I think you can wait a few more month after... probably by then all the bugs will have been worked out. Hopefully the Hara Edition Pro4 is in the works...and it will be the car to get. :)

[S15Racer]

Thanks Zombies. Man I really wish I could keep that car, it would be so cool to have my pros up at the track togather. It really sucks that I dont have any money:(

Oh well, I might wait a while, depends on how things look in a few months, may finish out carpet season with my pro 3 then sell it. Dont know yet. I'd like to wait until the bugs are worked out, but at the same time I just really want one of those things NOW!:D And the Hara edition, yeah that would be awesome, but no way can I afford that, I cant even aford to keep 2 midlevel cars, much less something like that. How much did the old one (pro3) cost? like $400-$500. Well as long as I can race I'll be happy so I guess I cant lose right?

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by S15Racer
Thanks Zombies. Man I really wish I could keep that car, it would be so cool to have my pros up at the track togather. It really sucks that I dont have any money:(

Oh well, I might wait a while, depends on how things look in a few months, may finish out carpet season with my pro 3 then sell it. Dont know yet. I'd like to wait until the bugs are worked out, but at the same time I just really want one of those things NOW!:D And the Hara edition, yeah that would be awesome, but no way can I afford that, I cant even aford to keep 2 midlevel cars, much less something like that. How much did the old one (pro3) cost? like $400-$500. Well as long as I can race I'll be happy so I guess I cant lose right?

Hara Pro3 was around $500.00++
I think I spent more than that to get the car... :(

[S15Racer]

And then there was the Blue one. that was like $700+ to build right?:cool:

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by S15Racer
And then there was the Blue one. that was like $700+ to build right?:cool:

it was more than that:D

I see a Blue Pro4 coming...:D or maybe Orange to match my WebSpecial R2 Cuda..:cool:

[k_bojar]

Anyone have a decent parking lot/asphalt set-up for the Pro3??

Looking for a nice handling set-up for the local HPI Challenge near me in a couple of weeks

Help :confused: :D :confused:

[Kenny T]

I got my Pro3 yesturday, it came with the carbon fibre chassis and upper deck, missing a few parts but I am very happy with it.

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
it was more than that:D

I see a Blue Pro4 coming...:D or maybe Orange to match my WebSpecial R2 Cuda..:cool:

lol, orange might be cool, or what about red? I've never seen a red TC before:cool:

[aspiringrcracer710]

You obviously havent seen the Surikarn Edition Evo3 from Tamiya

[S15Racer]

Always someone there to burst my bubble:rolleyes:

There was a red anodised TC at my track for a while but I thought it was a custom job. Is this Evo 3 thing a dual belt, Layshaft over motor set up with wierd looking white diffs? Cause thats what I saw, thought it looked really cool:cool:

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Evo3 is shaft driven like the Yok SD, TC3, and Pro4:)

[S15Racer]

Ooooooh the TB evo 3:o Ok yeah I know what that is, didn't know it came in red. The one I saw was a real old car. Dont know who makes it. It was all graphite plate and aluminum. Had saddle packs and like I said, these really wierd white plastic diffs. It wasn't a pro 2 or anything like that though. ANYWAY I still think a red anodised car would look good OK?

:D

[Sharkey]

ok guys, back to the pro 3...

i have ordered my chassis, i went with the flat carbon graphite one, not the moulded carbon graphite one.

what i need now is some help on gearing. im running a 15 turn speed gem pro, and my track has about a 75' straight, with an infeild built for nitro cars. im runing a 116-32 combo, and the car tops out less than half way down the straight, and the motor is likely 100 degrees after 6 minutes. i have cranked the timing up to 25 degrees (gradualy, of coarse) and its getting more power and rpm, but i still need more gearing. i currently dont have anything other than the 32-116, so i need to pick some stuff up. can anyone sugest what spur/pinion would work well in my situation.

im also getting a thrust ring for the diff and tires tomorow. im likely picking up some venom premounted tires. are they decant for bashing on a track??? i dont wanna pick up some real expensive tires for bashing.

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by Sharkey
ok guys, back to the pro 3...

i have ordered my chassis, i went with the flat carbon graphite one, not the moulded carbon graphite one.

what i need now is some help on gearing. im running a 15 turn speed gem pro, and my track has about a 75' straight, with an infeild built for nitro cars. im runing a 116-32 combo, and the car tops out less than half way down the straight, and the motor is likely 100 degrees after 6 minutes. i have cranked the timing up to 25 degrees (gradualy, of coarse) and its getting more power and rpm, but i still need more gearing. i currently dont have anything other than the 32-116, so i need to pick some stuff up. can anyone sugest what spur/pinion would work well in my situation.

im also getting a thrust ring for the diff and tires tomorow. im likely picking up some venom premounted tires. are they decant for bashing on a track??? i dont wanna pick up some real expensive tires for bashing.

The pro 3, right ok. Um the 32/116 sounds about right acually. Do you have the 35 pinion that came with your car, you could try that. Maybe just a 33-34 would work.

[Sharkey]

im not sure if i have the 35 tooth stock pinion, i think i stripped the screw out and had to cut it off, but im not sure. i did dig out a 30 tooth pinion. ill have to try some things out.

[trickedoutGT]

Whats the diff between 64 and 48 pitch pinions and spurs? Is there a difference in speed? I have a 48 pitch(yes 48 pitch) spur and pinion on my car right now. I was thinking of going back to the stock 64 pitch?:confused:

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by trickedoutGT
Whats the diff between 64 and 48 pitch pinions and spurs? Is there a difference in speed? I have a 48 pitch(yes 48 pitch) spur and pinion on my car right now. I was thinking of going back to the stock 64 pitch?:confused:

The biggest difference that I know of is that 64P gives you a finer (more subtle) change in ratios...48P the change of 1 tooth is a larger "gap"

BTW, I opted to run 48P on my Pro 3 also :) It was more outta neccessity than outta performance - I dont have many "smaller" 64P pinions :) So I went with my biggest selection of pinions

[trickedoutGT]

Thanks

If anyone has any Pro 3 or HPI Logo decals left, PLEASE let me know. Thanks

[Kenny T]

I realized a few days ago that the rear left A arm drooped a little more than the other ones, How do you fix this?

[nomac]

you might wanna take the rear shocks off first. then remove the spring retainers & springs. try to make sure there's equal pre-load on each one(shock collars) then with the shockshafts fully extended...check for equal length. if not....adjust till they're both even. check manual for for appropriate size. (depends on racing surface).


while the shocks are off and the suspension free....try letting both a-arms droop under their own weight. this will help you find out if anything's binding or stickin. if not, then put your equal-length shocks back on and that should do it.:D

[nomac]

you run carbon or regular a-arms?

[Kenny T]

Standard A arms. I'll try it out tonight.

[Kenny T]

BTW the preload on the shocks are the same I checked and adjusted them with vernier calipers. How do you adjust the shock shaft length?

[Kenny T]

The arm droops on its own with out the shocks, how do I fix this.

[Megatron]

Originally posted by trickedoutGT
Thanks

If anyone has any Pro 3 or HPI Logo decals left, PLEASE let me know. Thanks

I've got the set that came with my car. If you want, I can scan 'em and e-mail them to you and you can print them off your computer with clear label printer paper.

[S15Racer]

So I went out to the track today for a little mod action, that was fun:rolleyes: Let me set the scene, 180X80 asphault track, 100+ degrees outside, and my first time ever racing with a mod motor. First heat- ran 8 laps (only about .5-1sec slower than the leaders btw) then my spur gear must have heated to the melting point, cause the motor was spooling up and the car wasn't moving. Took the body off, and there were no teeth left on the spur, just a big groove where the pinion teeth cut in, not good. So i bought another spur gear and got ready for the second heat. This time, it was the pinion, it slipped off the motor output shaft in a not so spectacular crash on lap 3! and that ended that heat. it wasn't till I got the car back to my pit that I reallised I'd also shattered the left front outdrive, again! Thats the fifth outdrive I've broken with this car since I got it:rolleyes: So that ended the day for me. But other than those few mishaps, I had a great day at the track:D

[trickedoutGT]

Originally posted by Megatron
I've got the set that came with my car. If you want, I can scan 'em and e-mail them to you and you can print them off your computer with clear label printer paper. That would be great. But I heard the printer ink doesnt stick to those clear label printer papers? Do you have the stock # for the paper or where I can get it? my email is azntaimaishu26@msn.com . Thanks!

[jay272]

Do you pro 3 racers like your cars? Be honest.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by jay272
Do you pro 3 racers like your cars? Be honest.

I was fortunate to have a Hara edition kit...
and yes I did like the car. the car was fast and handled extremely well.... Other racers at the track alway want to see the car that passed them up on the straights and turns.... :)

unfortunately like other Pro3 racers... we all spent more than what we should have. Sold both my Pro3's at a major loss. Lucky to sell them for $450.00 for each car.. via Ebay. ....

[Sharkey]

i love mine. i race stock with it, and possibly will be running 19 spec this winter. it handles well and my lhs has a ton of parts for them (the guy that used to run my lhs raced one, so he brought tons of parts in, enough to build complete cars).

[nomac]

kenny t... just enscrew the shock ball where it goes in the bottom of the shaft.just make sure evrything is equal. the a-arms should drop on their own. just make sure there's not much play from back to forth.

[trickedoutGT]

Do you pro 3 racers like your cars? Be honest.

I love mine. With the correct set up its probably as competitive as other cars IMO. Takes a lot of stuff to get it properly set up though.

RC-ZOMBIES-Great to see you here even after you sold your pro 3s. BTW Im the guy that bought your GT7 ESC.:)

[Kenny T]

Originally posted by nomac
kenny t... just enscrew the shock ball where it goes in the bottom of the shaft.just make sure evrything is equal. the a-arms should drop on their own. just make sure there's not much play from back to forth.

What I should have said before is that the one arm is lower than the other with the shocks taken off.

[Kenny T]

Originally posted by jay272
Do you pro 3 racers like your cars? Be honest.

Is there a reason not to like them? and yes I like my Pro3 Spec V with a Hara chassis and hara top deck. Haven't raced yet but will try next year.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by jay272
Do you pro 3 racers like your cars? Be honest.

To be quite honest with you, I originally bought this car so I could run at the HPI Challenge this past weekend (Finished 1st in the B-Main, missed the "A" by 3 seconds) and was really planning on getting rid of it after the challenge since I already have a "primary" touring chassis that I just love and it fits my driving style. So I bought and drove the car with no expectations except for how much of my investment would I get back :)

Well let me tell you, this car has grown on me...I dont think it will replace my "everyday" racer (Tamiya TA04R), but it will definitely get its fair shake of racing...Yea, the car needs a little "work" to be competitive against the TC3 and the like, but the car can definitely hold its own...Especially running in a mod/open class...I ran a 10x2 and a 9x2 all weekend and the car didnt show any signs of too much power...It was like "gimme some more, I can handle it"

That said, mine is actually far from box stock - I got HPI front & rear carbon shock tower, the "cheaper" carbon molded chassis, the HPI motor plate, aluminum rear motor deck, aluminum layshaft support, titaninum turnbuckles, Tamiya threaded shocks, and the biggest imprvement, the Penguin upper deck/battery bar/plate...Attaching that thing make this chassis beyond stiff...Really made a racer outta it :D

So I'm gonna keep it...The Pro4 looks nice, but I'm more of a Tamiya man :):D so the Pro3 will stay

[jay272]

I'm not trying to say that the car is good or bad. I'm just asking what other racers think about it. I had one with the penguin chassis and countless other hop-ups and I thought it was great, except for the excess wheel wobble and slop everywhere in the suspension. I sold it on e-bay, and got a new x-ray evo 2. Honestly, the pro 3 felt like it was faster than the "X" but according to my lap times, it's not. My average lap times dropped from about 20 seconds to about 17 overnight. From B-mains to A-mains literally overnight. The x-ray is just so damn stable, it's hard to drive sloppy with it.

I just wanted to know what other real pro 3 owners had to say about the Pro 3, without simply saying,"I've seen them and they suck".

[Megatron]

Originally posted by jay272
Do you pro 3 racers like your cars? Be honest.

Initially, no. Not at all. I am a champion bench racer, and all that black plastic staring in the face was not cool. I bought it when it first came out and there weren't many accessible hop-ups for it. The Pro 2 had me (and everyone else) spoiled to graphite and aluminum and more hop-ups than one could count.

I was so underwhelmed I never even bothered to finish it. It just sat for around two years. I never even put the shocks on. Seriously.

Technically, there was nothing wrong with the car that a good top deck and some fine tuning would't fix, and no on can deny the innovations in it's design. Batteries down the center, wide diffs, short, stubby arms and cvd's.

Then, while cruising forums I decided to stick my head in the Pro 3 forum and saw Spoolin's Pro 3. When I realized that I could turn my fantastic plastic machine into carbon fiber/ carbon composite/ aluminum racecar I was back at. It's almost complete and it's feather-light and as stiff as a board. I love it. I'll buy a Pro 4 when it comes out, but I hate to see HPI throw away all the groundbreaking qualities of this car.

(And how many other cars have 8 different chassis' available for them...?)

[Sharkey]

well, if you think a great car has to have graphite and alumunum bits, you need your head looked at. most of it just looks cool and adds tuning options. i think the chassis and upper deck are the only bolt on things that make a big differance in the car.

[Megatron]

I've got an appointment with my shrink set for next Thursday.

I enjoy building these cars. I'm not a hardcore racer, and I didn't get into this hobby to race. I got into it because I love to build, and 1/24 scale models didn't go anywhere no matter how well you detailed the engine. (Mini-Z's weren't out when I got into RC...) I understand that not all hop-ups are necessary, and I'd be willing to bet that 75% of them don't increase performance by any noticeable amount, but I enjoy personalizing my car. Sue me.:p

And yeah, most of them look cool and add tuning options. Nuthin' wrong with that.

BTW, Does anyone out there know which of the available chassis' for the Pro 3 is the lightest? (Penguin, or any of the three HPI chassis?)

[Sharkey]

i couldnt tell you that. im getting the hpi woven carbon graphite chassis (the flat one). i will weight it once i get it.

yea making them look great with aluminum and carbon graphite is cool if your not racing, but if you are, the money is better spent on batteries, spares, and tires (lots of tires)

[trickedoutGT]

Well I have the HPI graphite upper deck. It is impossible to take the battery out without taking the upper deck out. Anyone else find this annoying?:mad:

[Megatron]

Have you seen the 'Team PRP' upper deck? It's just as effective as HPI's and batteries can be removed easily with the upper deck left in place.

[trickedoutGT]

Yeah. I have no money at the moment though:( . Does anyone have one for sale?