HPI RS4 Pro 3 Forum

[E-LST]

Hey, welcome to the thread, I have the first design (front motor) JRX-S, the Battery installation goes like this, turn the car upside down, unscrew 2 screws, lift the front of the tray away from the chassis and slide to the from of the car. Now, take your battery, with the bars on the end cells,(for esc hookup, hardwiring) at the right length and angle, angle the rearmost cell into the opening and slide the battery in, only 1 cell will be on the topside of the chassis at this time, take the tray and hook the ends under the chassis and close the front to the chassis, reinstall the 2 screws, and you are done except for soldering your connections. but in all honesty, unless you reposition the steering posts, or custom make the tray for the screws to clear the posts , the jrxs tray system will not work, hope I didn't lose you.
I got both pro3's all carbon fibered now, like I said before, it makes a tremendous differnce from the stock chassis.
I'm glad to hear you finally got to run yours, Manny. I bet it felt good to knock the "rust" off the controller.
Later,
Bob

[Manny]

E-lst...I still have the knack for steering cleanly through apexes but I launched my car over the corner dots quite a bit that day! I used my stock tub (molded graphite) chassis car with a HB top deck. I may try out the carbon fiber chassis next time.

What caster blocks do you run on your track? 3,4,6 or 8 degree....

[E-LST]

I'm using the Jonas Anderson setup from '01 in Snetterton England. and it has the 6 degree blocks. I have stiffer springs in the rear, I'll have to go to the trailer to get the colors, but it gives me good off power turn in and minimal on power push, unless I get too quick with the throttle. The suface we race on is medium bite at best. I got the setup off of the HPI website, hope it helps

[kylelucas]

Hello Pro3 Fans-

I was wondering if anyone was looking for a HPI 72292 Aluminum Center One-way Pulley 16 Tooth(Pro 3) .... If so I can move this to the SELL/TRADE section. I ask, because I was at my local hobby shop yesterday and they had 2 or 3 in the sale bin. HPI older parts are getting harder to find, so I figured I would pass along the 'find' if this is a needed part, otherwise I will let it go.

Best Regards.

[E-LST]

Not me, I tried a front oneway and found out that stock motors, asphalt, and oneways don't like each other

[E-LST]

No racing for me today,, 35 degrees and raining, not a good time to be outside :(

[Manny]

Racing is next Sunday for me. Hopefully it doesn't rain again! We're starting a "Tamiya Black Motor" class here in Oahu; any touring car with a Tamiya black can motor, close to identical final drive ratios, and a Tamiya, HPI or Yokomo scale type bodies.

Hopefully it the realistic looking cars and low maintenance motors will get the class kick started here.

[E-LST]

That sounds like a good class, it would have to be cheaper than the stock motor wars. Are you going to have a standard battery, or whatever ya got? Wonder what it would cost to move there? hahahaha

[Manny]

Hawaii ain't cheap! :eek:

With the Tamiya motor and a 3300mah battery, making the 8 minute runtime is a snap. There isn't a standard battery (or tire either).

With the slower motors, it seems there's some things that become more iand some things that become less important. It's critical that the Pro3 is as light as possible, I wonder what's lighter: the woven or molded graphite chassis. I'm also loosening up the belts as much as possible and using the lightest drivetrain components I could find.

Because the cars are slower, the setup can be a little off and it'll still be OK. Having the perfect tires and batteries won't be as critical.

[mickafet]

Hello Pro3 Fans-

I was wondering if anyone was looking for a HPI 72292 Aluminum Center One-way Pulley 16 Tooth(Pro 3) .... If so I can move this to the SELL/TRADE section. I ask, because I was at my local hobby shop yesterday and they had 2 or 3 in the sale bin. HPI older parts are getting harder to find, so I figured I would pass along the 'find' if this is a needed part, otherwise I will let it go.

Best Regards.

hia how much would it cost to buy and post to the Uk? I ve just started racing my pro3 on carpet and cant find this part in the Uk

many thanks

[mickafet]

hi all,

well I ve finished the top deck, just the chassis to go. The batterys come out real easy, cant see why they didnt do this in the first place. My only concern is that the weight is all near the top of the car, racing on carpet today so will see how it goes.

One thing is for sure the flex has gone!!

[Manny]

That will definitely improve your handling! Is it fiberglass (or fibreglass)? If you're concerned about weight, you may be able to trim a little material from the edges and retain it's rigidity(?).

[BillH]

I am looking to let my pro 3 go if anyone is interested. It has brand new Penguin R/C race kit, both graphite braces, and the graphite side plates. I'll let it go for 75.00 plus shipping. I just paid $55.00 for the upgrades and have not even run the car yet.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f282/rally4ever/pro3005.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f282/rally4ever/pro3002.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f282/rally4ever/pro3heli001.jpg

[mickafet]

That will definitely improve your handling! Is it fiberglass (or fibreglass)? If you're concerned about weight, you may be able to trim a little material from the edges and retain it's rigidity(?).

Yup I tried it tonight, so much better, and so simple. Its made from C/F 3mm, I made a mistake when I ordered as I only wanted 2mm. I am going to wait until I ve made the chassis, then if theres still plenty of strength I ll start looking at removing material from the top.

Thanks for looking!

[kylelucas]

How many do you need?

I think I saw 3 of these, I will need to get back to the local shop and pick them up if you want them. I think they were $39 USD originally and $25 on clearance. I will ship them for cost, so I would assume ony a few dollars to get them over to you. Let me know and I will pick them up for you. I can get them this week.

hia how much would it cost to buy and post to the Uk? I ve just started racing my pro3 on carpet and cant find this part in the Uk

many thanks

[E-LST]

Hey, Mickafet, Tower Hobbies has the HPI CF chassis in stock, I've bought 2 of them and they are nice. I think they are about $45 USD. Just in case you didn't want to do all the cutting your self.

[Manny]

Hey E-lst, I've ran my Pro3 for the 2nd time and with the set-up I've mentioned before it handles pretty sweet. It has a little bit of push exiting slow corners so I'll have to work on that. It seems I'm competitive against "modern" TC's. I'm going to do a back to back test next time by comparing it to my new TA05. How does your Pro3 compare to your Losi?

[E-LST]

Hmmmmm,, that's a good question, I have come up with a setup in my Losi that works for my driving style, but I think a lot of people would laff at it, and my pro3 has a more conventional setup in it. But one day right after I got the Losi I did drive them back to back and there was noticable difference between the 2. With that being said, a guy at the track runs my pro3 every weekend and usually out qualifies me, ( I never said I was a great driver) The biggest difference I guess, is the number of adjustments on the Losi.

[Manny]

There are a couple of adjustments that the latest TCs have that the Pro3 doesn't. I hate not having droop screws (which pretty much means disassembling the shocks), non adjustable front suspension mounts (except for one rake adjustment), and a limited number of rear suspension mounts (I can't try 0deg rear toe in). BUT I love the way it drives anyway and having the batteries down the center just makes sense to me.

When I start driving my TA05 I'll fiddle with the adjustments more because they're easier to make.

[E-LST]

I agree about the battery placement, I think that's the biggest reason I went with Losi, that and a good price on ebay. Earlier in the year, I was think ing about getting a Hara cyclone, but never saw any on ebay when I was ready to buy. A good thing about a losi is that parts will be around for a while.

[mickafet]

Hey, Mickafet, Tower Hobbies has the HPI CF chassis in stock, I've bought 2 of them and they are nice. I think they are about $45 USD. Just in case you didn't want to do all the cutting your self.
Thanks mate but I ve just doen it!!!!

Can any one suggest good set ups for carpet using foams?

I am running green front springs yellow rear and about 40wt oil.

toe in and camber etc is pretty much standard ( all about one degree)

with 6degree front castor.

hopefully a one-way pulley will be on its way soon.

heres some pics of the almost finished C/F chassis I made

[Manny]

Wow! That's impressive, puts my production Pro3 to shame! :cool: Can we get some bigger pictures? I have a Pro3 gallery on my computer with lots of pics and I would like to add your car to it.

How did you cut the CF? I hope you wore a mask or a respirator. :teacher:

[mickafet]

hia, yeah I ll get some picks up, but not right now. I cut it with a small disc on a dremel with a flexy cord. To line everything up I drilled out the front and back hole with a pillar drill, it would'nt work with out this as the drill has to go through stright. Then it was just a case of bolting the old chassis to the carbon fibre and cutting.

and yes I wore a mask, I also done it in a card box with a hoover in the corner to keep the dust down, but I was still covered!!!

cheers

M

[E-LST]

That's neat, good job. If you got HPI's website, click on cars, scroll down to dicontinued kits, click on that, find pro3 and you'll find some setups carpet and asphalt. I am using one in mine and it works pretty well. hope that helps

[mickafet]

hi, I ve found one carpet set up on there. But I think I ll keep working on the one I ve got for the minute.
I ve bought a spare car whihc I might try that set-up on so I can do a back to back.


What gearing does every one use for 19T, I am running 23/81, but I think I could go 25/81 on longer tracks.

cheers

[E-LST]

I don't know what is best for 19t I've always run stock. but generally 2-3 teeth less on the pinion than stock is a good start

[mickafet]

heres the picks:

sorry I keep shaiking!!

Any chnace I can see your gallery? will you be putting it up any where.


If you look at the picks I have made two C/F supports at each side of the top-deck, this connects the chassis to the topdeck. The thing I notice with the pro 3 is the distance bewteen the motor mount and front bulkhead is not supported in any way. This C/F braces make a conntact halfway between the two and make the car so much stiffer. It just goes to show what the pro3 can be with just a little work

[Manny]

I can't really see the details you're referring to. If I were still living in Harrogate, I'd drive up to Sunderland to see your car!

Most of the pics in my gallery were "stolen" off of the internet, so I wasn't planning on putting it up...but since you asked. I'll give you guys the address when it's done!

[Manny]

Here's a link to my Pro3 gallery

http://www.mannydesign.com/pro3Gallery/index.htm

[mickafet]

cheers, the gallery great, giving me some ideas, whats with the white diffs? any one know?

cheers

[Manny]

They're made out of delrin, I believe. I also think they were made by Hotbodies and available only in Japan. Asia had quite a few parts that weren't imported to the U.S. and possibly the UK.

[E-LST]

Great collection, Manny. And I thought I had some stuff on mine. I wonder if much of that aluminum parts ever made it over here. I have a set of the hpi purple alum front lower diff mounts, but I never even thought anybody had the top diff holders. that's cool.

[mickafet]

yup, there some interesting looking stuff.

How do you guys Pro 3's do for weight?

The BRCA minimum is 1500g, with 3300GP cells my pro is 60 gram over, any where I could save this or other mods that might work? I cant keep shaving bits off my top deck!!.

Does any one do a light weight screw set as the Pro has loads of screws on the bulkheads etc??
cheers

[mickafet]

Okay so I am bugging now, does any one know what I will save the most weight with:


Graphite Diff Hubs


Titinium shock shafts

cheers

[Manny]

I thought the stock diff hubs were graphite? Anyway the answer to your question is diff hubs. The Titanium shafts although lighter, probably aren't a big savings whereas lighter diff hubs (if you can find them) is weight that needs to be rotated. You'll probably have to hunt around for individual titanium screws but you should be able to find a titanium screw for 95% of the screws on the Pro3.

[mickafet]

I thought the stock diff hubs were graphite? Anyway the answer to your question is diff hubs. The Titanium shafts although lighter, probably aren't a big savings whereas lighter diff hubs (if you can find them) is weight that needs to be rotated. You'll probably have to hunt around for individual titanium screws but you should be able to find a titanium screw for 95% of the screws on the Pro3.


CHeers Manny, your right, I just hunted around and they are the standard one, however there been sold on ebay as lighter!!. Titanium screws are the next to check,

cheers

[Manny]

If you get the rear CF shock towers, you can mount your body post on them instead of using the body mount bracket...that will save weight that's high up in the chassis. Should get you much closer to 1500gr. Making this mod is much cheaper than an entire titanium screw set and will lower your center of gravity too!

Don't forget, weight isn't everything...If you changed all of the screws on your lower chassis to titanium you'll actually be raising your CG slightly!

[mickafet]

If you get the rear CF shock towers, you can mount your body post on them instead of using the body mount bracket...that will save weight that's high up in the chassis. Should get you much closer to 1500gr. Making this mod is much cheaper than an entire titanium screw set and will lower your center of gravity too!

Don't forget, weight isn't everything...If you changed all of the screws on your lower chassis to titanium you'll actually be raising your CG slightly!


Good point, i ve been looking at this onmy car, and like you point out, saving weight higher up is better. Do you have a pick of this mod, as I am not sure what you mean?, I know it is to get rid of the large plastic moulding, but how would the posts fit to the tower?

cheers

[Manny]

Take a look at the rear shock tower on this car:

http://www.mannydesign.com/pro3Gallery/pages/haras_auto.htm

It has the body posts mounted on the outer edges of the rear shock tower, I"ll try and dig up the P/N for the body posts but I'm sure they're a standard HPI part.

[mickafet]

yup, I found some posts that fit in a spare parts box, thats 8g saved!!!

3300 are so heavy!!

I will be using a one way pulley soon if any one has any tips??

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Here's a link to my Pro3 gallery

http://www.mannydesign.com/pro3Gallery/index.htm

That's an awesome gallery you have...

I really like that Blue Pro3... ;)

[RC-ZOMBIES]

....

I will be using a one way pulley soon if any one has any tips??

don't use the brakes.. :D
the car is fast with a dual one-way set-up..

[mickafet]

heheh, I dont use em any way!!!

will it make much difference just haveing the pulley?

[Manny]

That's an awesome gallery you have...

I really like that Blue Pro3... ;)

Your Pro3 is still the coolest one I've ever laid my hands on!

[RC-ZOMBIES]

I wish I still had it... :(

[mickafet]

well thats killed the thread off then!!!!,

what do you guys race on carpet or tarmac/asphelt??

[Manny]

Don't worry about RCzombies, he's gonna regret selling that car for the rest of his life! :p

I race on prepped asphault parking lot. Even with a thin layer of sugar water, the traction is pretty good.

[Manny]

Don't worry about RCzombies, he's gonna regret selling that car for the rest of his life! :p

I race on prepped asphault parking lot. Even with a thin layer of sugar water, the traction is pretty good.

[SCHMACH]

anybody happen to know the email address for team prp racing ? i just got my pro 3 back and i have some q's for them

[Manny]

look here:
http://www.teamprpracing.com/contact.html

[SCHMACH]

tried that marty... i get an error when i hit send...i'll just sens my q thru snail mail

[SCHMACH]

any possibility of anyone who has either the prp or hot bodies upper plate taking it of their car tracing on paper,scanning it and posting it?...it would be most appreciated

[mickafet]

any possibility of anyone who has either the prp or hot bodies upper plate taking it of their car tracing on paper,scanning it and posting it?...it would be most appreciated

If its the centre one that stop you getting the cells out I can?? HPI/HOT BODIES I think

[SCHMACH]

that'll work...just need a starting template to make mine...so you can get the batteries out like the prp racing one....if you can do it, thanks

[mickafet]

Schmach,

here it is I can e-mail you a better one if needed. TBH you need a templte for the holes, I used this spare one, drill one hole then bolt the T/D on to you CF. If the holes are out you will end up with a tweeked car,

Also try and include the bit across the steering posts so you can barce it there as well. if you do you can get rid of the front plastic brace and save weight as well.


let us see the results!!!

[SCHMACH]

i will....thanks dude

[GuyIsDamGood]

Hey Pro 3 guys; Nagengast Hobbies has a few Pro 3 Carbon Parts at a LOW Price(all Real HPI stuff).
-They ship parts to alot of places; but if you`re in the U.S. you`re really good.

Nagengast Hobbies
68-02 Fresh Pond Road
Queens, N.Y. 11385
(718)821-0958


I wish the Pro 4 and TB Evo 5 spots was this awake. Those 2 spots have been dead for some time now.

Take Care

[mickafet]

Hey Pro 3 guys; Nagengast Hobbies has a few Pro 3 Carbon Parts at a LOW Price(all Real HPI stuff).
-They ship parts to alot of places; but if you`re in the U.S. you`re really good.

Nagengast Hobbies
68-02 Fresh Pond Road
Queens, N.Y. 11385
(718)821-0958


I wish the Pro 4 and TB Evo 5 spots was this awake. Those 2 spots have been dead for some time now.

Take Care

Nice :roll2: , do these guys have a web-site???

[mickafet]

hi all,

whats the crabo graphite chassis like from HPI? think the part No. A381 is much more strength in this, I have'nt seen many as most racers to for C/F

cheers

[SCHMACH]

het mikafet...this is what i came up with...gonna cut it out today...i'll post pics wh it's done

[mickafet]

het mikafet...this is what i came up with...gonna cut it out today...i'll post pics wh it's done

make sure theres room for the cells to come out!!!!, it may be to late but I made a template from clear plastic so I could mark off where I wanted to cut it and try it out.

make sure you put some imgs up, good luck

[E-LST]

mickafet, I don't know if there are any 381 chassis' around, I've been looking for nearly a year, and finally got the hpi cf flat chassis from tower for my 2 pro3's, and use the pegiun braces on the top side. Granted, I have to take my top brace off to change batteries, but it works right out of the bag.

[mickafet]

I asked as there was a pro3 in the Uk with one on ebay, most of the top drivers seemed to use the flat chssis so I resume thats best.

I ve just added some alu shocks, very soomth but a bit heavier than std shocks, does any one else use these??

[E-LST]

I use the Tamiya TRF florine blue shocks on one and the stock ones on the other. I had to mix and match spring cups and rod ends from tamiya, hpi, and associated to get the right length, but they work very smooth. Also, I use associated springs, easier to tell what rate they are for me

[Manny]

I think the molded cf chassis is a little bit stronger than the stock one but it still flexes almost as much. I currently run one with an HB top deck to take care of that and the car works just fine for outdoor parking lots.

I also run the std shocks because they're lighter.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

just a heads up guys...there are several hopped up Pro3's available for sale on the RcTech forums....

[GuyIsDamGood]

Hey Pro 3 Guys.....

Nagengast Hobbies does have a website; but I believe it`s set-up only with Trains.....for now.

But you can contact them and ask about the Pro 3 Carbon Parts.
-Carbon Main Chassis
-Carbon Upper-Deck
-Suspension Arms

Take Care

[bxpitbull44]

Hey Pro 3 Guys.....

Nagengast Hobbies does have a website; but I believe it`s set-up only with Trains.....for now.

But you can contact them and ask about the Pro 3 Carbon Parts.
-Carbon Main Chassis
-Carbon Upper-Deck
-Suspension Arms

Take Care

http://www.nhshobbies.com/

It has been upgraded.

[mickafet]

Yo,

So I am best off with a flat Cf chassis than a A381? I ve found one in the uk for 24GBP posted, help should I buy or stick with flat CF

cheers

[Manny]

If you're racing on carpet, yes. Stick with the flat CF chassis.

24 quid for a a381? That's a little steep.

[E-LST]

OK boys, it's been too quiet on here for too long... popcorn I have some news of interest for us in the market for pro3 parts. It seems that there is a company over in mickafet's neck of the woods that can get parts for us. www.PodiumRC.co.uk On March 6th I ordered 3 sets of carbon susp. arms 2 sets of susp arm mounts ( the peices that the pins slide into) and 3 bumper/body mount assys. Today they showed up at the PO from merry old England. and paid with a debit card. :D how cool is that? I don't know where or how they get them, but I have been looking for a front bumper assy for almost a year. Check'em out. :driving:

[Manny]

Hey E-lst! It's been a while! I'm still racing my Pro3 here in Hawaii. At the last race, my average lap time (for a 13 sec. lap) with the Pro3 was about a second faster than my average for 1/12 scale! Meaning to say my car was dialed! I won both races BTW...

BTW how much did you pay in postage from the UK?

[E-LST]

They aren't the cheapest place, but if they can get you what you need, I don't mind a little extra cost. That being said, the shipping was 12 pounds(?) total cost was 68,92 pounds.

[Manny]

I know what you mean, the graphite parts are getting a little scarce. I think I only have one back-up set. In the future, pm me with what you might need, I'm MUCH cheaper than the hobby shops in the UK :D

BTW how is your car running? Are you still running the Losi car?

[E-LST]

The pro 3 is doing good, I have a nitro driver piloting it, He could drive a little harder, but what the heck, he doesn't break a lot of parts. He always wants the "best" batteries and a different gear and they are killin me out of the corner, you know the type. but he's got it out there. Yeah, I'm still driving the losi, I fially found a setup that works for me, and tweaked it a bit and it improved my performance a lot. are you still running the silver can motor or have you gone back to the stock motors?
Talk at ya later,
Bob

[Manny]

We're still running the Tamiya Black can motors...It's basically a silver can motor with a bit of timing and softer brushes. I doubt our rules are going to change anytime soon (any car with a Black can motor,6.58 gearing and realistic bodies). We're building up our new club on Oahu so we're trying to keep the rules simple to attract new racers.

It seems to be working because every two weeks we get more and more racers coming out! Especially the mini class. We've even got our hands on an AMB system and a set of Road Rails for our track. And even though the local hobby shop owner isn't "officially" involved with the club, I think he's done more than anyone to promote us!

[E-LST]

Where'd everybody go???? anywho,, for those who do stop by, I parked the jrxs and went back to my pro3, guess what? I did better with it than that high zoot car. I think it was because I knew it was an "antique" and shouldn't run with the new stuff and I wasn't trying to push it, like they say, "slow is fast" I did hear about a dirt oval and was told that my jrxs with the 13.5 brushless would be "Da Bomb!!" in that class, I hope that's good. hahahaha I'll let you know how it turns out. Laterz :wave:

[Manny]

I'm still around! Racing in Hawaii is getting better by the fortnight! I put the Pro3 away for a couple of races but I"m bringing it out again.... Get this, some of the old timers are racing Hpi rs4's (the original one), Yokomo Mr4tc's and Yr4's along with the latest cars! It seems to be pretty close between the different cars and I"m gonna join in.

[Kden46]

That's Kewl Manny! I did'nt know you have a Pro3! I kind of wish I still had my Pro3! ;) I bought it back when they were still racing TC's at Dave's at night! But they stopped before I had a chance to go racing :(

I like my Pro4 after racing it for the first time on Sunday! But racing the Main at night got me thinking of that Pro3 I bought years ago!hehehe :D

This is John aka Xtant ;)

[Manny]

Oh yeah! You're the guy who crashed after Jesus and I were commenting on how smooth you were! :wave: Just kidding! That was an amazing race: it was close and when nearly everyone finished on the same lap there was a big round of applause from the crowds!

I have a Pro4 too but I'm still stuck on my Pro3!

[Kden46]

Yah that's me! :p ;)

I was to busy listening to you 2 guys! :teacher: :D

[E-LST]

Well, Manny, I have driven the 3 to new heights,hahahaha. actually the track was lengthened to 408' and I was able to get around much better, had time to set up and correct if necasary. I really enjoyed the track, had one car that hacked me all thru the 2nd heat, I guess he aint figured out how to drive around another car yet. That's all right, there's always next weekend. I ran the Protoform charger SRT8 yesterday and was impressed with it's qualities, and good looks, might have to get one for a back up. Laterz

[Manny]

Well, that's the right attitude to have...it's just racin' little cars after all! In the last couple of mini A-main races I've been getting smashed into at the start of the race and usually finish the first lap in last place! I just have to laugh and say "There's no love for Manny!" I have fun no matter where I finish!

Anyway..no changes to my Pro3 to report, but I'll let you know how I did at the last race.

[E-LST]

Hey all, I put some "HORSEPOWER" in my pro3 this week, I had a 13.5 brushless sitting on the bench that was looking forlorn, so I put it in the car. I have one in my jrxs(which is supposed to be sold) and like the way it jumps out of the corners. I tightened up the diffs to compensate for the bigger torque of the 13.5. I also upped the gearing to a 42/108 from a 33/108, as long as the motor comes off the track at 140 or so, I'll be all right with the gearing. I had to add about that same number of teeth on the jrxs and temped good. Can't wait 'til tomorrow to pull the trigger. :D :driving:

[E-LST]

Well, last Sunday went really well. I qualified for th A main in one of the qualifier heats. and finished 3rd out of 6 on the lead lap. I finally wound up with a 44-104 gear on the 13.5 and probably could have went more. The car handled well and surprised me at how well it drove. All in all, a good day. :wave:

[Manny]

Glad you had another good day! I also had a good day with my trusty Pro3! I had a close battle in qualifying with my buddy and his TA05 but narrowly beat him to get pole position. The A main for me was uneventful after I took the lead from the start, put a lap on the field (there were some unfortunate accidents behind me), and set the fastest laps of the day in touring car.

I have a Pro4 and a TA05 but I'm very hesitant to even run them at this point because my PRO3 is so consistant.

[E-LST]

Well, here we go again,, I bought a jrxs type r after selling the jrxs. last week I knocked all the arms off of it, (kit EA3 parts are junk) so I put the old car arms on it for sunday and could not get a handle on it, my set up doesn't resmble what I started with at all. Got smacked in the 1st heat and broke a rear hub. So, I got the pro3 out put the motor/esc on it and went out and qualified for the b main. It was a little loose but not bad. I was trying to run down the leader in the b when the trigger finger overrode the brain and blasted the pipes and broke a steering knuckle. I guess I'll keep the 3 around for back up, It is amusing tho, park a $400 car to race with $130 car, because it drives, :D go figure :bang:

[Manny]

I'm proud to say I don't have a lot of money in my Pro3..the only options are the top deck, shock towers, aluminum motor mount and a few other aluminum parts...around $200 for the whole thing since I got it when it was on closeout! Not dirt cheap by any means but probably less than what you pay for a TA05 or Cyclone S with some hop-ups.

We raced last weekend and I had to battle it out with two TA05s..... those things handle!

[E-LST]

Well, well, well,, how things change in the course of a couple of weeks, I have decided to let go of both of my pro3's and a huge parts lot go with them,they are on the for sale forum $175.00 shipped. get 'em while they're hot!!!!

[Manny]

Sorry to see you go! I feel like the last man standing......

[bxpitbull44]

Anyone selling a roller Pro3? I need one to be a parts car for my Pro3.5. I am resurrecting my Pro3.5 (graphite everything, purple everything). Will need a back-up for parts because parts are rather scarce.

[bxpitbull44]

Help. I bought several Maxamp packs, only to discover that the pack slated for my Pro3 doesnt fit. Even thought the car looks like the Losi JRXS-R, the battery is a little too big. I tried to use my 4600's, but they were CA'ed and soldered based on the Pro4 slots. What cells can I buy that will make this puppy go? I have been out of sub c game and need some help. Pease tell me I have an option other than 3300's.

[bionictony]

For the pro 3 molded chassis, side by side batteries should not be glued together. There are somehow small gaps between the cells. So if you use battery bars, do not glue the cells together. If you have glued your cells together, it will fit the pro 3 woven graphite chassis.

[bxpitbull44]

Looking at one of my packs that I squeezed in there, I realized just that. Now, here is the kicker, how am I to solder the bars without gluing? I dont own a jig and gluing in a Pro4 chassis I have lying around is how I have been building my packs.

[bionictony]

Get the woven graphite chassis for the Pro 3 then. If it has been glued together to fit the Pro 4, then it will fit the Pro 3 woven graphite chassis

[bxpitbull44]

Now, this is where things get confusing, I dont know which is which. The stock is the flex monster, I have one that is graphite that is in the same shape as the stocker and the one that is hopped up now, is the one that looks like the Losi JRXS-R. Same material as all of the high end tourers. Please elaborate..thanks.

[Helgaiden]

someone should post a side by side pic of the pro 3 with the woven carbon fiber chassis next to a JRXS-R... :p

[bigb11]

do anybody own a Hara Pro 3? like to see pictures.

[C2B]

I have a collection of 4 Pro 3's 1 x Hara, 2 x Penguin full build as well as a graphite tub with the usual hop ups, to my mind the fact that it still outruns the majority of the 'modern' cars at our club shows that HPI knew what they were doing when this became the first of the new breed of CAD cars.

Once you get the setups right then to be honest there are not many more fluid cars to drive, if only the boo boys back in the day when I first bought mine had taken the time to go with it they may have been surprised. Is it no wonder that HPI went to the Pro 4 as everyone was clamouring for a shaft drive at the time due to the speed of the TC3, but once you factor in drivetrain breakages it's nmo wonder that most 'current' cars now run back on 2 belts.

People always ask me wow that car goes good what is it and I can happily smirk and tell them that its a car that I bought over 7 years ago and have still to this day only ever worn out Wishbones, hubs etc NEVER broken one. Low cost motoring lol.

I now run 19 turn with a money motor and 3200 LiPo's and its super quick once this motor wears out I think I will treat my Baby Pro 3 to a 10.5 Brushless.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder I know but even so........after 7 years she still has it IN SPADES !!

[Gixer]

Hi guys,

Anyone still racing or bashing these cars?

Bought my Pro3 used around 3 months ago, having an absolute blast with it.
Out of the 3 RC cars i have it's used far more than the other 2 together.

Recently looked around at buying another 4x4 road/touring car, but to be honest i think that there's really not much i've driven that's as much fun and well balanced as the pro3.

Soooooooo i ordered a brushless motor and Esc a few weeks ago and have just ordered the Penguin Carbo chassis with side bar things and race upgrade.


It's a little crazy spending that much on a out of date car that wasn't even that popular when it was new.

BUT i kinda like doing up old car (full size) and have become pretty fond of the pro3 so i thought i'd put the money that would have gone on a new car into me old one.


If anyones still interested in these cars i'll stick up some pics when the chassis arrives.



Cheers
Mark

[Radio Acer]

I raced mine last winter until the local track shutdown. I don't have a use for it anymore. I consistently won my class, which was rubber tires, stock motors, and nimh batteries. It was pretty fun and with some tweaking it handled well. I don't even have any aftermarket parts on it. It's still a good car, but when you compare it to the new X-Ray's and such, it will be hard to keep up. I'll see if I can dig up some pictures. It's good to hear that someone else still has one, even though Mine has seen very limited run time for a while now.

[Gixer]

Great to hear someone else is still using the Pro3.

Only racing mine sees is against mates cars on a slapped together car park track, it's mainly for fun and bashing.

On the car park runs though it seems to have the legs on most my mates cars on the turns, it's just losing out on the straights (hence the brushless ;)).

I could have probably bought a new car that's much better than the Pro3 for the money i'm spending upgrading it.

But it's pretty much worthless if i sell it, so to buy a new car and just throw the Pro3 in the back of a cupboard somewhere just seems a shame to me.

Here's some pics as it stands now.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/cbr6fs/RC%20Cars/RS4%20Pro3/IMG_1578.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/cbr6fs/RC%20Cars/RS4%20Pro3/IMG_1603.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/cbr6fs/RC%20Cars/RS4%20Pro3/IMG_1606.jpg

The Ezrun 5.5T 6000kv motor and 60a Esc.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/cbr6fs/RC%20Cars/2009_10_05%20Bits/IMG_2753.jpg

Also bought the LCD program box as well.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/cbr6fs/RC%20Cars/2009_10_02%20Motor%20BL%20Cntrl/IMG_2737.jpg



Any tips on what sort of gearing to start off at with the new 6000kv motor?
It's currently running a 64 pitch 35T pinion and 116T spur.


Cheers
Mark

[samaj]

I'am looking for a NIB RS4 PRO3 kit. If not NIB a runner in good condition will also do.

Pls mail me

samaj69@gmail.com

Cheers

[Smokis]

nice to see this thread on the first page... i actually just came on the forums because i'm bringing my pro 3 back to life for some bashing... also upgrading to brushless.

[SCHMACH]

you got a pic of your 3 ? i still have an extra team prp upper deck for sale

[Urbandrag]

I know this post is almost dead...
But, I have in sight one Pro 3 in good shape...
I have in my garage a GTB2 ESC, and a Team Novak Velocity 3.5r...
What do you think?, Will the car hold well the power?... What gearing would you recommend?
I'm planning to build a drifter...

What do you think????

[SCHMACH]

i tried fitting a losi excellerin setup in my pro 3 and the motor wouldn't fit....too much motor though