HPI RS4 Pro 3 Forum

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

I would like to know if PRO 3 is better than XXX-s
THANK YOU

[V-OneR Racer]

The only way to answer this quetion is to look at value for money. The Losi IS better value for money than the Pro 3 in so much as you "need" less hopups to get the car "dialled".

As for what is better, more durable etc etc you really should get friendly with you LHS or some racers at the track and ask really nicely if you can drive their car. This is the best way to know as everybodys car opinions are personal.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

I am almostly sure that it will be better than the pro 3

[Ras Thavas]

The Losi is a better value if you consider that they give you a body and tires for only $10 more.


The Pro 3 does not need a bunch of hop ups to be dialed. It does need some hop ups to be competitive in the speed department if you are running stock. Funny, there are certainly a bunch of hop ups out already for the XXX-S, a car that allegedly does not need any.

Competitive racers will probably buy hop ups that make the car perform better even if they don't need them. I spanked everyone last week in the speed department with my XXX-S, but I still bought and installed the aluminum cvd's. Gotta keep that edge.

The XXX-S holds the edge on speed over the Pro 3 out of the box with stock motors. The Pro 3 handles much better than the XXX-S out of the box. All you really need to tune the Pro 3 for parking lot tracks is a good set of tires and a couple different types of pro linear springs. I'm still trying to figure out how to get the XXX-S to turn smoothly.

The Pro 3 comes with better shocks, and the steering posts have bearings for ultra smooth steering. I hate the shocks on the XXX-S (why are they so big?). It took me 15 minutes with 400 grit sandpaper smoothing those plastic bushings that fit in the steering bellcrank posts, and I am still not happy with it. I am going to have to find some bearings that will fit in there to replace the bushings. Why are the wheel nuts so big on the Losi? Just makes for more rotating mass. It is not like it is a buggy and it needs to be that beefed up.

HPI has the greatest customer support in my experience. They have a great web site, and a forum full of useful information. When the Pro 3 came out, there was some question about the strength of the A-arms. HPI readily admitted that they made them too thin in an effort to save as much weight as possible. They immediately re-designed them, along with the outdrives. Anyone could get the upgraded parts by simply sending an e-mail saying you wanted them. Heck, I got 2 sets cause I made a nice phone call and said I broke one of the upgraded outdrive rings and could not find a replacement. Knowing that they wanted to do some quality control on these parts, I recently sent them 2 of my original a-arms that finaly broke after months of racing. I did not ask for any replacement parts, but they sent me a set of a-arms and outdrives anyway! That is good customer service. Now I have a-arms coming out of mu butt! I wonder if Losi will send me a new A-arm when I break one of mine?

You must consider where it is you race. The Pro 3 does flex. If you race on parking lot tracks it won't bother you one bit. If you have ultra smooth dedicated tracks, or indoor carpet tracks than the Pro 3's flex may be bad. In that case go with the XXX-S, it is really stiff.

[hypertech]

The flex in this car is worse than anything I have ever seen.....sure you can put an HB upperdeck on it but then you have to tear the deck off all the time to get the batts out...and you gotta just love the flex in the suspension...yuk....HPI messed up on this car big time !! Wish I had kept my Pro 2...was way better than Pro 3 by far but I'm really tired of HPI's upgrade game and poor designs :(

I am putting mine up for sale and getting something else, maybe an RC Labs 7Even 6.0 or Kyosho KX 1....

[DrDiff]

There was no Pro3 forum.

I had to start one. I still believe in this car. HPI is working on stiffer chassis parts for carpet racers.

[Ras Thavas]

The Pro 3 has worked great for me all summer long.

[Ras Thavas]

Wow Dr. Diff, we are certainly the underdogs of this forum:)

[DrDiff]

Yea I agree. My local track is considering actually removing turns to "make the track more friendly" I think that they are making the road course more of an oval to get more speed out of the cars. They say less turns means less broken parts. However less turns means more speed. More Speed means harder crashes. Harder crashes means more broken parts.

You can't win for loosing!

[Ras Thavas]

Bah, twisty turny tracks are the most fun!

[rchotrod]

Hi everyone, I too have a pro3. Great car! I have been slowly adding hop up parts when I can, so far a heatsink motor plate and the center mount. I will add some penguin parts this winter. I won't get the full blown chassis, just the parts to stiffen the car up alittle. I hate it when people won't give a car a chance just because it isn't a champ right out of the box. Well this is my first TC and I love it! I am the only pro3 at my track and can hold my own with the others. Just my thoughts on the subject.

Thanks, rchotrod

[DrDiff]

The full penguin treatment is not necessary. From what I have seen all you truly need is the HPI graphite impregnated chassis, and the soon to be released HPI upper deck.

If you can not wait for the HPI upper deck, get the HB thick upper deck and the Penguin rear brace [the one for over the motor]

[Ras Thavas]

Welcome aboard rchotrod!

I just put on the HPI graphite chassis. My local Hobby Town just rented an abandoned supermarket and is setting up a carpet track. I figured the car might benefit from being a little stiffer on the carpet. I have the HB upper deck, but I am not going to use it right away. Want to see how the new chassis affects the car first.

[rchotrod]

Thanks Ras! From what I see on other websites the HPI graphite chassis is not as stiff as you think, looks like everyone is still using a top plate. I plan to get the penguin front and rear brace kits along with their racing upgrade kit. It looks like a nice upgrade for my stock Pro3.

[DrDiff]

rchotrod: The nice thing about the soon to be released HPI upper deck is that you do not need the Penguin front or rear braces. If you can not wait for HPI go with the Hot Bodies upper deck as it eliminates the need for the Penguin front brace, but you still need the Penguin rear brace.

[rchotrod]

Do you have any photos or where I can look at the hpi deck? I am not set on the penguin stuff just yet, but that is my first choice right now.:)

[DrDiff]

The HPI upper deck was in prototype form on the Pro3 display car at the Chicago Show.

[rchotrod]

Well I installed the turnbuckle between the battery brace and the rear chassis brace and really liked the way my pro3 is working now! I might change my mind on those penguin parts and spend the money on something else. What do you guys think about the front or rear oneway?

[DrDiff]

A turnbuckle brace is nothing compared to the HB upper deck and the Penguin rear brace.

The problem still is that the kit front and rear braces are flexing all over the place. Untill you solidly bridge the front and rear diff covers, the car is as flopy as it was in bone stock condition.

[StevePond]

There were four threads for the Pro 3. I narrowed it down to this one. It would be nice if we could keep it to just this thread. :D

[makaluch]

I'm getting conflicting info on the tranny. I was wondering if the RS4 2-speed works on the Pro3 ?

I'll be running med sized tracks in parking lots so I believe I've chosen the right ride...with the exception of straightaway speed. I'd rather be tuned for the turns though...then if I lose a little in the straights it's not too critical. It'll make me a better driver.

And a comment on the HB upper deck...most guys charge/discharge while in the car. Use fans and you'll be fine. It's probably a good idea to rest for 20 min or so between runs too. I usually take the time to inspect the car and/or make changes while I'm waiting. (XXXT anyway...I'm new to on-road...hehehe)

[makaluch]

I'm hoping people will post their setups here...maybe we can see what works and what doesn't:

New parking lot, mild dust (use blower)

Stock Pro3 pistons
Stock positions
Springs: AE #35yellow f/AE #30purple r
Oil: 80f/70r
TiresF: Yokomo 206m... firm Yok insert
TiresR:Yokomo 138g...soft Yok insert

Now I'm brand new to on-road so I really have no clue what I'm doing as far as tires. I also have no experience with on-road shocks and fluid so I'm just gonna drive a few packs, change setups and see how it feels. I run around cones by myself...lol. No one's into on-road around here, but it'll change when a few other guys gather up some money to buy 'em. Anyway...some input would sure help those of us who are willing to give the Pro3 a shot. Lata:D Mark

[tarvymoto]

Maybe try something a bit lighter for the shock oil. More like 50f/40r. Even lighter for bumpy parking lots ect... . I'm not familiar w/ associated springs but you may want to try something apropriate for the lighter oil.

[makaluch]

What's a good neutral ride height to start at ? The parking lots that I run around on are new...not bumpy like the street. Also what springs do you run and what are they rated at ? Hmmm...I'm like a sponge with this on-road stuff !!!:rolleyes: My wife and daughter are into it, so I can have a built in racing crew...lol !!

[Usagi]

people still running these things! I thought most owners went bey bey with them.oops only few are left.:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :o

[makaluch]

Are they really that bad ? The Pro3 isn't competitive if I decided to race it ? Can you tell me why you think most people dropped them ? Hmmm...:(

[tarvymoto]

Trust me , some people are just haters. On parking lot tracks the Pro 3 is PERFECTLY capable of winning. Some people are just pissed about the flex(wich is not good for carpet of high-bite tracks , but RIPS on parking lot tracks). I could have won my local series w/ my Pro 3 if I had not missed 1 too many races(do to being out of town)

[Usagi]

There are not many drivers in japan using the pro3 its sad...... They have forgotten them.

[tarvymoto]

You will be ok. You can move on . You will heal. Now go post on another board:D :D :D

[Usagi]

...hum its sad many drives felt hpi let them down. And they did.. they what moved into a new building and are saying they are increasing the business. well they better start looking that the present buys not the future ones..... They lost a huge base here.........

[makaluch]

Ok...so for the driving I plan on doing my choice wasn't a bad one....whew !;)

The graphite chassis and HB deck can take some flex out and get me close too...if I plan on being on any other surface...from what I hear...hehehe:rolleyes:

[tarvymoto]

You'll be in great shape. Just use a smaller pinion for tight tracks , like you said and you will be smoke'in it. The Pro 3 is not as good on wide open tracks in Mod class, but for stock on road it's the bomb.

[Uncle JT]

Well, no one has posted here in awhile so I'd thought I'd post.

I hope DrDiff is still active on here. DrDiff, are you still planning on relocating to NW Indiana? It'd be great to have you up in this neck of the woods.

So I went out and bought an HPI RS4 Pro3 earlier this week. However, it never fails, after you buy something, you start reading on here about everyone bitching and complaining about how much the car sucks. Everything from 'belt drives suck' to 'too much flex'. However, to me it seems like it can be a very competitive car based on the standings I was looking at prior to purchase.

However, I do have one issue that has come up during building. The round plastic pieces that are suppose to keep the MIP CVDs from falling out (step 22, part A492(6) ) are driving me crazy. I have already broke one trying to get it on correctly and once they are on, the CVDs still have a tendancy to fall out. Maybe this won't be much of an issue once I get shocks on the car but man, this seems like a very cheap setup. I'm glad Tower Hobbies stocks replacement parts and their warehouse is only 1-day via UPS ground for me.

Thanks for listening.

- JT

[DrDiff]

What did you pay for the car. Horizon is having a fire sale. They will sell you a new one for $130 they now sell them to hobby shops for $99! Horizon said that HPI 178 [the Pro3 kit] has been discontinued. HPI denies it and says that they have not discontinued the car. I personally am considering a TC3 or a XXX-S.

Many people have had problems with the outdrive rings. HPI had to make a new mold. If your kit came with rings that look like the ones in the book you simply call HPI customer service and return the broken ring and they will ship you 4 new ones.

The new ones allow the CVD bone to be removed with out removing the ring. The shocks will help keep the CVD bone in the out drives.

I would love to get back to NW Indiana. I was born in Valpo and raised in Portage. MrsDiff was born in LaPorte and raised in Chesterton. I started racing at Wings and Things in Chesterton

[Uncle JT]

Diff:

I'm just getting back into the hobby after a 10 year hiatus so I was a bit anxious. I had read some initial reports that indicated the RS4 Pro3 was a decent car so I had no problems picking it up for $219 when I saw it at the LHS. I bet it had been sitting on the shelf for awhile because it had had some dust on the box.

I will have to contact HPI about the outdrive rings. Mine are a royal PITA to fit on and I broke one in the process. Overall assembly is about 50% completed now.

I think I will be buying another car later this week but will be keeping the RS4 Pro3 for when I get my asphalt track built this spring. Most of the tracks around here are carpet ovals so I think I will be picking up a RC10L3Oval or a Trinity Switchblade 10SS2 for these tracks.

- JT

[Linkin Park fan]

could i post about the nitro RS4 3??? Well anyways i heard that it can usa many of the rs4s hop-ups.....what are they???i know that hpi is going to make some specific hop-ups for this.



ThanxLinkin Park Fan~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

[FrankW]

Yeah, i picked up a RS4 Pro 3 for $100 today through my hobby shop (I work there, get stuff at wholesale). I haven't started building it yet... I'm waiting until I get some other stuff straitened out, and some cars and planes sold. Anyways, while I love HPI cars, I was somewhat disapointed with the fact that the chassis (and other parts) isn't made of a better material. I can't remember, but does it not even include a one-way pulley? I used to race Stock Sedan with the origonal Pro, and I liked the quality a lot. But the Pro 3 is more like a Sport kit with bearings. I don't regret my purchase, and I will turn it into more of a performance machine as time goes on. I stick by belt drives, and I think the design of this car is very interesting, but HPI should've used better materials for it's construction... after all, it's supposed to be a "Pro" I don't plan on racing this car just yet (going to race 12th scale), but I may see how it works on the track down the road. So, for now it'll be stock, and I'm happy.

-Frank

[DrDiff]

What do you expect from a $100 sport car with bearings.

Nope HPI ditched the one ways from the Pro2 and Pro3 kits in order to reduce cost.

[Usagi]

hey you getting this info too about the pro3 no longer is being made :)
wow i heard that they are working on a another car........ what gives they just released this thing and now they stopping.........OMG this does not look good.:rolleyes:

[FrankW]

Hmmm... maybe I'll just keep this one stock then :D . Just use as a display car for my touring bodies for sale on ebay. Darn, I wish I hadn't removed the shrink wrap. Well, maybe my hobby shop will get another one, I already have one of the origonal RS4s still in shrink wrap... why not the Pro 3? But if/when HPI comes out with a newer, <b>better</b> tourer, I'll look into getting that (provided it comes with all the goodies that it should).

-Frank

[Ras Thavas]

Dr Diff, see if you can find a Yokomo MR4-TC Special and drive it. I am not getting rid of my Pro 3's, but I do like the Yok better as a stock car, and it is much better than the Pro 3 on carpet. I'll probably run the Pro 3 in mod when we start outdoor racing again.

All those american and overly large fasteners drove me crazy on the xxx-s. Why in the world they have 11/32 nuts for the wheels escapes me...

[Usagi]

The crazy part of this problem is many of HPI sub metal part companies are making tons of purple crap for it. NO BRAND, SQUARE, etc etc etc........ Hara has really messup a aready screwed up company in HPI. If HPOI is smart they dump NOW! :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[makaluch]

Hey guys, do I need the spur adapter to go to 48 pitch spurs ? What is the purpose of the adapter ?

I have both odd and even sets of Robinson pinions for my MF XXXT. I can save a few bucks if I'm running the same pitch on all my stuff. I'll lose a little in the fine tuning, but it's fine for me. We're just play racing locally for now. Thanks !:) Mark

[Ras Thavas]

I'm not sure what adaptor you are referring to, but all you need to do to use 48 pitch gears is remove your 64 pitch spur and replace it with a 48 pitch spur.

[Notnerb]

Nice body there Makaluch. When I tried to mount mmy Motor Sport Elise body, the front shock tower got in the way, so now the front of the body looks really bad. And I painted it with the wrong paint, so when I hit a big bumb and launched the car about 4 feet and landed it upside-down, it knocked some off. But I didn't break any A-arms. Who says they're weak?

[hpidriver]

i have to ask, why are people complaining about the pro 3?
i have a pro3 and it's probably the best sedan i've had. yes, i'll agree, it does have some flex, but a penguin chassis kit would take care of that if you really need it. if you sit down with the car, strap it into a hudy board, and set the thing up it's just awesome. i've had alot of tc's, and i would say it is a contender for anyone that knows how to set it up. the last car i had was a yokomo (still have if anyone want's it), and the pro 3, for me, was much better at the track. i use the stock chassis and a setup from hpi's website. as far as this car being better than a xxx-s, i couldn't tell you, but i do know that with the hopups avalible for it, it should have no problems for you or anybody!!!

[Notnerb]

I don't know either. For some reason, people don't like HPI.

[mustangman79]

I have had my pro 3 since early march. It's a really good car. I haven't broke a single part on it. It's took a couple of good hits. I haven't got to race against anybody yet.

Joe

[Need2Speed]

I just bought 4 Pro 3.....why 4 you ask........Well thanks to all the PRO3 haters some of the distributors are trying to dump those kits on LHS's Mine got a great deal and passed it on to us the customer.....I paid $79.99USD for my kits
So now I am back into electric after a long(too long) abscence......

[Need2Speed]

$79 a piece that is LOL:D :D :D :D

[Mustang_child]

is that car able to run (no offense) but it seems really low to the ground and its nice also

[Need2Speed]

I honestly couldnt tell you I sold them all for around 150/each.....and bought a XXXS

[TEM]

Can someone suggest a good carpet setup for this car? Also, how do I get them updated arms and diff outdrives from HPI?..

thanks!

[pro3racing]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
I would like to know if PRO 3 is better than XXX-s
THANK YOU

yes yes

[roberttatefan]

get the prp top deck, it is just as stiff and the battery slides right out, check it out at www.rccentral.com

[cyb0rg]

I want to get into touring cars and on road racing, and the HPI Pro 3 was at the top of my list...until I read this forum.

I would be doing most of my practicing in the parking lot but the actual racing is done on carpet. I've read a lot about the Pro 3's flex problems, and maybe this car isn't for me after all.

I think I'll do some more research on the XRay T1. :D

[Tweaked]

Well its been a while since a real Pro 3 owner has posted. I was wondering how they feel about their cars now. I would like to get a new touring car this summer and am a huge fan of an underdog! Thanks.

P.S. if anyone is wondering why I chose this thread its because the other one which is more recent is more dedicated to defacing the RS4 rather than helping its users....

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

look at this... the pro 3 hara edition... pretty sweet huh?

[RacingFreak]

Here is my PRO3.
<img src=http://home.earthlink.net/~suttichet/pro3/1.jpg>
<img src=http://home.earthlink.net/~suttichet/pro3/2.jpg>
<img src=http://home.earthlink.net/~suttichet/pro3/3.jpg>

[RacingFreak]

I got to show you my pro3!!
<img src=http://home.earthlink.net/~suttichet/pro3/1.jpg>
<img src=http://home.earthlink.net/~suttichet/pro3/2.jpg>
<img src=http://home.earthlink.net/~suttichet/pro3/3.jpg>

[metal man]

Sup
I have had my pro3 for a year and I can seam to find the gearing for it if you have any suggestions let me know.

[CookieDude]

Hey i am thinking about gettin a pro 3 as well but can you fit a 7 cell bat in?

Tower said the HPI Sports 2 only 6 cell and Pro 3 can use 6 or 7. But base on what i am seeing from the pic it doesnt look like it can fit 7 cell

and one more thing is the pro 3 a lot better then the Sports 2?

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by CookieDude
Hey i am thinking about gettin a pro 3 as well but can you fit a 7 cell bat in?

Tower said the HPI Sports 2 only 6 cell and Pro 3 can use 6 or 7. But base on what i am seeing from the pic it doesnt look like it can fit 7 cell

and one more thing is the pro 3 a lot better then the Sports 2?

On the Pro3 it only has slotts for 6 cells. you may be able to strap down 7 cells if you dont run a upper deck or use the stock battery strap. but with the strap and upperdeck the chassis will be very flexy.

Yes... the Pro3 is better than the Sport2

[trippin freddy]

yeah! i just got a pro 3 2nd hand today! it came with a 1-way & graphite chassis for $150 (australian- about $75USD). i havent been able to use it yet because i need to install some electrics and stuff but i already love it! as for hopups i think it depends on the class you race in but you cant go wrong with the team PRP upper deck. it's so much easier to remove batteries than the HB one! also think about a woven graphite chassis, like the one on the hara edition. other than that just keep getting graphite and aluminium.
GO THE PRO 3!!!:D :D

[trippin freddy]

Everyone seems to think that the Pro 3 is cr@p but i can tell you if you get the Spec v from Asia you will love it.
for $480 (yes that's right, it's cheaper than the US Version) you get the pro 3 with (i think) 100% graphite & aluminium as well as plenty of other hopups.
and don't complain about the HB upper deck being hard to remove batteries, just get the new team PRP one (see a review @ www.rccentral.com ) for an extra $4 you can take the batteries out in about 4 seconds instead of 40 seconds
or if you have the extra cash, get the hara edition and the PRP upper deck.

SO STOP COMPLAINING ABOUT THE FLEX AND BATTERY INSTALLATION!!!

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Just released from Japan... HPI long awaited full length upperdeck. #73044 Should perform as good as it looks.

[hpiracer2r]

hey guy im getting a rs4 pro and a rs4 sport that doesnt have all the parts i was just wondering what can i take off the sport that would do good on my pro???? and ive heard people talking about that the pro has a 1 way diff and what does the pro not have that the pro 2 has becuase i might what to upgrade to pro 2 specs and then on up to pro 3 specs. but can i still race my pro 1 at the hpi challange and if so what class would it be in alright later


(sorry about no periods commas i dont like them)

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Check out the other Pro3 forum... I just posted a pic of the new HPI full length upper deck.

... Spec-V is $270.00 HB Hara edition is $520.00 with today yen / dollar exchange rate. and it is loaded with option parts. HB graphite chassis and upperdeck, etc.... no need to switch to the PRP upperdeck. How often do you really need to change batteries is 4 sec.? only if you're running endouros... In a normal race day... you'll be waiting 30minutes or more between qualifing rounds... I can get mine out in 10sec. The HB upperdeck just looks nicer...

[TSR6]

I merged the two Pro3 forums together. We don't need two. ;)

Enjoy.

-Troy

[metal man]

who makes a better chassis of the pro3 HB or Penguin

[RacingFreak]

HB has the best graphite chasis for PRO3!

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by metal man
who makes a better chassis of the pro3 HB or Penguin

HB! :D

[Samsonite]

I just got a pro 3. It has run great from the time of gotten it from till now. i dont race on carpet but why are you guys complaining about spendin a little more. Most of us have already spent reasonable amounts of money in rc so whats a little more.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Just got the new HPI full length upperdeck...:D

And here's the new HPI Graphite chassis....

[InsaneRc]

I just bought my wife one and would like to know if anyone would post rollout for a short and long track for stock.

[teamitazura22]

is this thread supposed to dead? i hope not because i just bought a pro 3. i hope i didnt make a bad investment. im new to this and would like some opinions on part for this car. are there any parts for this car that i "should" get for better performance? ill be running this car on mostly parking lots.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

I'm hoping too that this thread is not dead...
There are alot of new option parts being released for the Pro3.
First thing on you list to purchase is the upperdeck, either the HB or new HPI will work the best. this will stiffen the chassis considerably, improving the overall handling of the car.
Other things to consider is the motor mount heatsink, aluminum shaft mount, set of springs and oils, graphite arms and components, 3deg. c-blocks, front one-way diff & one-way center pulley, this will help increase your cornering speed on high traction tracks.

[teamitazura22]

sweet. time to make a shopping list, haha. thanks RC-ZOMBIES. in my opinion, i say we keep this thread alive and going. who knows, this thread might get resuscitated again, which is what i'm hoping. as a newbie, im going to need all the help i can get.

would you recommend that i get the "HPI Main Chassis Woven Graphite w/ Servo Plate" as well for racing in parking lots?

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Yes.. forgot to mention that... I do recommend getting the new HPI woven graphite chassis plate or the woven graphite molded tub chassis. Right now I have the HB graphite chassis and upperdeck. the car handles and just as fast as any car out there. The HPI graphite chassis plate can be pre-ordered from Tower it's about $47.99 and that's about $10.00 cheaper compared to the HB chassis.

You may want to check out the HPI electric touring car message boards too. alot more active than here.:)

[superdriver]

hey i just got a pro 3 and so far it's ok, but I was woundering if anyone knew what the best speedcontrol for a pro 3 in a stock class. I race on a brand new track and spend at most $150. so if anyone has some info thanks.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Get the LRP SR or GT7...

[superdriver]

how about the quantum pro sport or the lrp 7.1

[Dr. Techn0]

Ok,

just to keep this thread alive. Although I have a 2 indentical Hara Edition Pro 3, along with an Xray T1 EVO2 fully hopped out and now playing with Serpent and other nitros. Here's a picture of what you can do with your Pro 3. Bare in mind, mine is a geniune Atsushi Hara Edition with further hop ups including all Titanium Hex, Ceramic ball bearings and diff balls, etc. The car was setup using the Hudy Ultimate set-up system and runs on rails. Well, not just run on rails, but hyper-speed with and silkly smooth with the ceramics. Ok, I'm beggining to sound like I'm bragging, but in actuality, I'm just a proud owner of this car.....:D

http://www.ampacshipping.com/hara2003.html

Dr. Techn0

[popsracer]

I have the HPI 1 piece graphite upper deck and don't like the way it interferes with removal of the battery packs. My car handles great without it. What I need is a little more top speed. Going to try some motor tuning this weekend and see how it goes.

Popsracer

[*Miller*]

I recently ordered a Pro3... wont be able to afford to buy it for a while, but im looking forward to the day I get it :p

[JR in NC]

Just bought a used Pro3 am trying to get some understandingon how to gear this car so it can compete in stock. My other car is an XXX-S so if anyone out there has a wonderful idea about how I can draw a comparisons wirh these cars or some kind of final ratio before adding the pinion.(the old owner threw away the manual) so I don't have alot to go on. Is there a problem with converting this from a 64pitch to a 48pitch spur.

Any help would be helpful.

JR in NC

[RC-ZOMBIES]

I gear my car at 110/39 with a P2K2. for large asphalt track.
you should have no problems using 48pitch gears.

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
Get the LRP SR or GT7...

I'll vouch for the GT7, just got mine, and its awsome! its got 7 "hence the name" throttle profiles to choose from, and you can adjust the minimun brake values in any of them. The 7th profile can also be completly customized without an external device. Sorry- I started to sound like a novak advertisement there for a second.

I can also vouch for the HPI upper deck, I got it along with the esc, and now its like a whole new car! And Ive discovered that you can get the batteries out of the car without taking the deck completely off. All you have to do is take out the front 2 screws, and bend the deck upwards, this gives you just enough clearence to get the batts out.

And guys, lets try to keep this thread alive OK? There are a lot of Pro 3 owners out there that would like to have this tread available.

Hey RC Zombies, whats up, do you remember me from the HPI forum? How many of us are there in here?

[bionictony]

i dont remember racer from hpi.. but i remembr zombies. i have the team prp upper deck. it makes my pro 3 pretty stiff. plus there's a hole in the middle big enough to take the battery out without removing any screws. you should check it out. they have a new design. i'll post pictures of my car later.

prp's website: http://home.attbi.com/~teamprp/

some guy is selling a pro 3 with the upper deck here (http://**************/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2565&item=1921091900&rd=1)

[Kden46]

Dr. Techn0 that is a sweet pro 3!!!:eek:

[JR in NC]

what other companies make performance parts for the Pro 3 other than HPI. In order of importance where would you start.

I've just bought a used one and am looking for all kinds of info on this car like hop-ups and gear ratios. I've been racing a XXX-S for about 6 months. I ran across this deal 2 weeks ago, the car a stock GM3 all electronics and a Futaba fm radio for $ 200.00.

If there is anyone out there who can make some suggestions I would appreciate the help.


JR in NC

[nomac]

jr, where in nc do you race? i frequent the durham tourin track. i would love to get some "alone time" with one of those cars. so far i have played with two x-ray's, a xxx losi, a pro 2 hpi , and i'm currently tweaking with a tc-3. i've all of these cars on black-top, carpet and cement and i must say that the 'ole pro 2 was the best handling car of the bunch. but due to it's thicker belt's it was hard to "keep up" in stock carpet racing.

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by JR in NC
what other companies make performance parts for the Pro 3 other than HPI. In order of importance where would you start.



OMG where do I start?

1Hot Bodies
2Cross
3Square(or something like that:rolleyes: )
4Penguin
5PRP
6Theres more, I know

HPI is still the major one though- you can get anything you need from them.

[JR in NC]

Nomac,

I race at Wheels in Durham, on Sunday afternoons. Home of the 2003 Electric On-Road ROAR Nationals. I just bought this car but don't know much about it. I thought it might be a good choice for a spec touring car or maybe a stock touring car. My son and I are there most of the time, Bryan has been racing the XXX-S in novice, he actually won the fall series.

I've just been trying to decide where to start as far as hop-ups or to just leave it the way it is. It does have a one way dif on it right now.Any ideas as to what I might do next.


JR in NC

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by Kden46
Dr. Techn0 that is a sweet pro 3!!!:eek:

Thanks. I now have it running smoother then ever. Did managed to break two graphite front lower arms within 10 minutes apart from rubbing on rail down at Ricky's RC a couple of nights ago. LOL

I found out that the diff cover helps alot on dirty tracks as I've had it come off and had to rebuilt the diff within a few runs. *sigh*

I currently have a 6t double on there and x-patterns and they are SWEEEEEEEEEEEET! :D

Dr. Techn0

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by S15Racer
OMG where do I start?

1Hot Bodies
2Cross
3Square(or something like that:rolleyes: )
4Penguin
5PRP
6Theres more, I know

HPI is still the major one though- you can get anything you need from them.

Jet makes some really good hop-ups. I just started my hobby shop and will be carrying these parts. Also OVA, and Nobrand.

Dr. Techn0

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by JR in NC
what other companies make performance parts for the Pro 3 other than HPI. In order of importance where would you start.

I've just bought a used one and am looking for all kinds of info on this car like hop-ups and gear ratios. I've been racing a XXX-S for about 6 months. I ran across this deal 2 weeks ago, the car a stock GM3 all electronics and a Futaba fm radio for $ 200.00.

If there is anyone out there who can make some suggestions I would appreciate the help.


JR in NC

Hi JR,

I would greatly suggest you get the delrin diff set. It's a bit longer and helps keep the rear CVD dogbones in place.

2. Do change the diff balls to carbite or even ceramic as it will be much, much smoother. The stock HPI ones are lousy and will wear in no time.

3. If you haven't already, get the better shocks known as HPI's aluminium threaded body shocks. They are expensive but will worth the investments as it'll offer more rebound if you add the bladders. I can use my full sets of XRAY springs on the shock bodies and they are a perfect match.

4. If you're running mods, don't forget to get the aluminium motor plate. Since this is not a performace upgrade, but proved it's usefulness on hot motors.

Good Luck!

Dr. Techn0

[popsracer]

S15Racer;

What bothers me about removing the screws to change the batteries, is now you create the very real possibility of Tweeking the chassis. Also I have 3 cars that I race with on any given race day so things can get a little hectic when I have back to back heats.

DR.Techn0;

The Bladders will fit in the kit Pro-3 shocks, Just remove the foam from inside the bodies. (don't need anyways) At about $50 a pair for the HPI Aluminum shocks, I ONLY paid $120 NEW for the whole Car.
Never had problems with my diff outdrives except for breaking the little rings. Has worked fine without them for months racing Stock class.

Do you have a web site yet for your Hobby Shop? I am looking to buy a new Robitronics Motor Dyno soon. (as soon as I find one)

[nomac]

to jr.

were you the guy there with the 2 hpi pro 3's? my race name is pete. i think i met you there one weekend i was crew chiefing and racing. can you tell me the next time you're gonna go the wheel's? i would like to meet you there and maybe do a trash session. p.s. if you wanna race anytime this winter, my tc-3 is always ready and available. (i think it's a fair trade considering how i want to take that pro 3 home and discect it.lol.:)

[TEM]

popsracer, if you hate removing screws to change batteries there are 2 options, 1 you make 3+3 saddle packs, and the other, to buy a upper deck that has the big opening for removingpacks I think 2 companies make them right now..

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by popsracer

DR.Techn0;

The Bladders will fit in the kit Pro-3 shocks, Just remove the foam from inside the bodies. (don't need anyways) At about $50 a pair for the HPI Aluminum shocks, I ONLY paid $120 NEW for the whole Car.
Never had problems with my diff outdrives except for breaking the little rings. Has worked fine without them for months racing Stock class.

Do you have a web site yet for your Hobby Shop? I am looking to buy a new Robitronics Motor Dyno soon. (as soon as I find one) [/B]

Popsracer,

Sorry but we're still in the web writing stage so there isn't site available for the time being. About the stock shocks, I agree that the bladders will fit but because the stock shocks weren't designed to withstand consistant heavy load and rebound, it'll eventually leak. I've seen the optional threaded shocks selling for less then $30 a pair so that can be considered in the future when running mods IMHO. About the outdrives working fine, I somewhat agreed again, only when running stock classes. But when racing mod is concern, a slight mishaps will sent the cvds out of the outdrive and break the cvd's. They're expensive costing more then the delrin diffs. But again, just my opinion since I've actually though when I had my Spec V that it's all I needed until these things occured. :D

Questions, seeing you want a Robitronics Motor Dyno, how many motors do you have? reason I asked is because wouldn't a comm lathe be a priorty over the dyno? :)

Dr. Techn0

[JR in NC]

Pete,

Are you the guy that was at the track this past Sunday,who was supposed to be at home sick,or at least that's what you told your wife. I offered you the couch at my house. We'll probably be at the track 12/8. We might practice on Thursday afternoon, Idon't know for sure yet.

Not sure I'm ready to see the Pro3 in the disection tray quite yet. I've got plans for it next year. Maybe spec touring, who knows what.


JR in NC

[nomac]

you got it bro! but since today was my birthday, and i was sick at work all week, she's gonna save the spankin till later. but if don's is open then i'll be there for some mod testing.

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by popsracer
S15Racer;

What bothers me about removing the screws to change the batteries, is now you create the very real possibility of Tweeking the chassis. Also I have 3 cars that I race with on any given race day so things can get a little hectic when I have back to back heats.



I suppose that is a possibility, I rarly do this anyway, most of the time I just leave the batt in the car to charge it- and I set it on top of an ice pack to keep it cool:D It also occurs to me though, that after youve bent the deck a few times to get the batt out, you could just flip it over and continue bending, this would prevent it from getting substancially tweeked.

Ahhh... its nice to see this tread back on its feet again.

[sosidge]

I'm just curious how long you've actually been racing R/C cars.

I remember your first posts on the HPI forums six months ago, which suggested you were a complete newbie.

Now you seem to have spent a thousand dollars on the equipment, and all of a sudden you know what people should be putting on their Pro 3's to make them run right.

Here is my experience with the car, referencing your recent advice.

1. I've run the car with bladders in the stock shocks for over a year. The shocks do not leak at all, never have, and remain completely smooth.

2. I get at least 3 months out of the standard steel balls in the diffs, with no smoothness problems. Carbide/ceramic balls are just an extravagance, in my opinion.

3. The only way to damage the diff outdrives is through impact/excessive suspension travel - the Delrin diff is again an extravagance.

It REALLY gets on my nerves when people who spend too much money on their car tell others they NEED to buy certain costly parts.

My Pro 3 is virtually standard, except for a variety of tuning parts in the pit box (anti-roll bars, one-way, springs, caster blocks), a top deck, three-piece motor mount and spur hub.

I'm just a club racer, but the car's got me into A-finals at competitive clubs from the day I bought it.

I'm curious to know where you finish at race meetings?

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by sosidge
I'm just curious how long you've actually been racing R/C cars.

I remember your first posts on the HPI forums six months ago, which suggested you were a complete newbie.

Now you seem to have spent a thousand dollars on the equipment, and all of a sudden you know what people should be putting on their Pro 3's to make them run right.

Here is my experience with the car, referencing your recent advice.

1. I've run the car with bladders in the stock shocks for over a year. The shocks do not leak at all, never have, and remain completely smooth.

2. I get at least 3 months out of the standard steel balls in the diffs, with no smoothness problems. Carbide/ceramic balls are just an extravagance, in my opinion.

3. The only way to damage the diff outdrives is through impact/excessive suspension travel - the Delrin diff is again an extravagance.

It REALLY gets on my nerves when people who spend too much money on their car tell others they NEED to buy certain costly parts.

My Pro 3 is virtually standard, except for a variety of tuning parts in the pit box (anti-roll bars, one-way, springs, caster blocks), a top deck, three-piece motor mount and spur hub.

I'm just a club racer, but the car's got me into A-finals at competitive clubs from the day I bought it.

I'm curious to know where you finish at race meetings?

I had thought of not replying to your post because being a public forum, there's always one or two Mr. Know-it-all mightier then thou type regulars who spends more time demeaning others in the forum rather then spending more time on the tracks. Can't blame you since it's probably cold and snowing where you're at.

Well, lets see... Hmmm?

First of all, six months ago, I wasn't new to this hobby. Just new to the Pro 3 which my son got me into since he wanted one. Prior to that, I've owned and race older tamiya version cars on and off whenever I had time or leave. Its not easy being a squadron leader with the USAF yeah! the F-16....

Yeah, I also spend a small fortune on both my pro 3. Why? because I always wanted the best and will ONLY settle for the best. Yeah, it looks good, makes me feel happy and runs great! You think HPI and others aftermarket companies spend a fortune on R&D to come out with parts that have no use? No performance advantage? you got to be kidding!

Maybe you're just lucky that your stock shocks hasn't leaked. But this is both experienced by a couple of respectable guys who post in this forum including "Mr. Blue is Better", a couple of tech support for HB, World Champion Hara himself and humbly ME. Need I name more? And don't ask me how I know them because I'm not telling but ask some of the guys in the old HPI forum and they'll tell you I KNOW THEM!

The carbite/ceramic balls are much smoother and less maintainence. Simply put, those who can afford it can, those who can't, can't. There are performanace gain and most know why but since you refused to acknowledge that then so be it. Go ahead and use your steel balls, it ain't my car.

Delrin diff by far is stronger then stock graphite or plastic diff because of it's material. I read a lot of people complaining about their dogbones falling out and was referred to purchase longer CVDs from Titanium Racing. I too along with some other great drivers have switched. I've seen racers who got slammed and ended up with a broker outdrive or CVDs. Maybe stock class racing is different or your car has "the force" surrounding it.??

This hobby is more than just winning races and people who comes to this forum comes for a few other reasons such as advices, experiences, set-ups, hop-ups and etc. There are literally hundreds of optional parts for the Pro3 and most are not needed while some are luxury items to boot. But your opinion is simply YOUR opinion and mine is mines. Just because I like mines all hopped up and the fact that I CAN spend a thousand dollars on my car doesn't mean I can't contribute my actuall experiences to others. I'm sure everybody who reads my opinions knows I don't run their lives and they CAN get whatever parts they want. I don't really see a reason why I got on YOUR nerves for making a suggestion and WHO ARE YOU to tell me or anybody else that we've spend TOO much money? Surely you don't know me or what my financial capabilities are so I don't see how one can trickle your nerves.

So you want to know where I finish at in a race meeting? Just to suit your curiousity. I have a freshly laid 3,000 sq.ft. asphalt private track in my own warehouse. I have my own group of 6 team members/drivers. We practice 3 hours per day 5 times a week. I also practice on the track that Hara himselve designed and laid. The same track where Hara practices normally when he's in Southern California. Just in the last two months, I've had 4 TQ and won 2 A-mains locally. So Mr. SAUSAGE, I really don't know your point of this post but I definately feel (IMO) you've ruin it for others with your remarks. Again might I remind you, it's just MY opinion.

Lastly, how many A-mains have YOU won? not that it matter, just redirecting the question back to you..

Dr. Techn0
P.S. Please don't bother replying since I won't continue this thread.

[sosidge]

EDIT I'm not comfortable "boasting" about results - if Dr Techno came back, he'll have seen, if not, what does it matter? EDIT

I don't want to get into an argument about who's the better driver - like I said, I'd class myself as a competitive club driver - the national class guys are a long way ahead of me - I just don't think the million dollar man sending edicts on what expensive parts to buy from on high is good for the hobby. The thumbs (or fingers, in the case of a wheel radio), and the head, come first.

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by Dr. Techn0
But this is both experienced by a couple of respectable guys who post in this forum including "Mr. Blue is Better", a couple of tech support for HB, World Champion Hara himself and humbly ME. Need I name more? And don't ask me how I know them because I'm not telling but ask some of the guys in the old HPI forum and they'll tell you I KNOW THEM!



If I'm not mistaken, sosidge is from the old HPI forum, as am I so we both probably know how you know "Mr Blue is Better" and the others. I'd also be interested to see what RC Zombies (hint, hint) thinks about all this.

Next, you both have a point, and neither of you is right or wrong so why dont you just go on without making this thread into an episode of Jery Springer. Lets just keep this about the Pro 3 ok?

PS: I'm most likely younger than both of you children:D

[nomac]

no but seriously jr, i just wanted to bring the pro 4 to my stable and see what makes it tick. sorry to have been so forward!(i guess i'm too used to my roadies sayin- "here pete, take it home and see what you can get out of it.") because for certian i won't be runnin a tc3 next year at durham, and the pro 4 is the only dual belted car i haven't "felt" yet. i guess i could buy one for like $100 or so (blessed are the hock-ups!) and try it out but then i might be stuck with a rc paperweight. but that robitronics touring car looks good though.

[GA Maxx]

hi, my pro3 project is coming to an end here are a few pics of it

i like it much better than my tc3 factory, i think its the greatest touring car:)
i race on a carpet track i will post my set up later:

enjoy:)


http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL131/783110/1376654/16131140.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL131/783110/1376654/16131173.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL131/783110/1376654/16131170.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL131/783110/1376654/16131133.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL131/783110/1376654/16131112.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL131/783110/1376654/16131108.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL131/783110/1376654/16131108.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL131/783110/1376654/16131123.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL131/783110/1376654/16131127.jpg


here is my set up

Track: Dudley Radio car Club
Driver: Keith Powell
Car: HPI RS4 Pro 3

Front:
Springs: HPI yellow 25mm (sprint)
Shock Oil: 40 wt
Camber: 1 deg
Toe in: 1.5 degree
Ride height: 5.5mm
Caster: 4 deg
Shock positions: top row, 3rd hole in
Tyre: Schumacher Yellow rally block
Swaybar: Gold

Rear:
Springs: HPI yellow 25mm (sprint
Shock Oil: 40 wt
Camber: 1 deg
Toe in: 3 degree
Ride height: 5mm
Caster: 0 dg
Shock positions: top row, 3rd hole in
Tyre: Schumacher Yellow mini pins
Swaybar: n/a

Motor
Model: Trinity P2k2
Timing: n/a
Brushes: Demon

Gearing
Pitch: 48dp
Spur: 87
Pinion:28

Electronic Speed control:
Model: Novak GT7
Profile: Aggressive Stock

Batteries: GP 3300

Servo: Keil Ps 4001

Bodyshell:
Make: Protoform
Model: Opel Astra DTM 190mm

Notes:
Loads of hop ups, very stiff car. Front one way differential. Tight carpet track
lay down for more turning and stand up for less
May be get pins all around and mess about with springs maybe I should go softer
Less caster the better.
(understeer is better than oversteer for a track like you race on, so dont have too much)

[GA Maxx]

hi, my pro3 project is coming to an end here are a few pics of it

i like it much better than my tc3 factory, i think its the greatest touring car:)
i race on a carpet track i will post my set up later:

enjoy:)


http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL131/783110/1376654/16131140.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL131/783110/1376654/16131173.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL131/783110/1376654/16131170.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL131/783110/1376654/16131133.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL131/783110/1376654/16131112.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL131/783110/1376654/16131108.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL131/783110/1376654/16131108.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL131/783110/1376654/16131123.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL131/783110/1376654/16131127.jpg


here is my set up

Track: Dudley Radio car Club
Driver: Keith Powell
Car: HPI RS4 Pro 3

Front:
Springs: HPI yellow 25mm (sprint)
Shock Oil: 40 wt
Camber: 1 deg
Toe in: 1.5 degree
Ride height: 5.5mm
Caster: 4 deg
Shock positions: top row, 3rd hole in
Tyre: Schumacher Yellow rally block
Swaybar: Gold

Rear:
Springs: HPI yellow 25mm (sprint
Shock Oil: 40 wt
Camber: 1 deg
Toe in: 3 degree
Ride height: 5mm
Caster: 0 dg
Shock positions: top row, 3rd hole in
Tyre: Schumacher Yellow mini pins
Swaybar: n/a

Motor
Model: Trinity P2k2
Timing: n/a
Brushes: Demon

Gearing
Pitch: 48dp
Spur: 87
Pinion:28

Electronic Speed control:
Model: Novak GT7
Profile: Aggressive Stock

Batteries: GP 3300

Servo: Keil Ps 4001

Bodyshell:
Make: Protoform
Model: Opel Astra DTM 190mm

Notes:
Loads of hop ups, very stiff car. Front one way differential. Tight carpet track
lay down for more turning and stand up for less
May be get pins all around and mess about with springs maybe I should go softer
Less caster the better.
(understeer is better than oversteer for a track like you race on, so dont have too much)

[GA Maxx]

ive just readthis thread: Will you please sop going on a bout flex, it is a minor problem, easy to solve and cheap, upper deck bang sorted stiff car:rolleyes:

[JR in NC]

Pete,

Tell you what I don't mind if you tweak on it, feel it or whatever else I'm just not ready to part with it until I explore it's potential. I've been looking for a second car to run in spec class and from what I can tell this may be a good choice. You're still welcome to mess with it maybe between the two of us we can tranform this Pro 3 into a winner. What are you going to do when this new prototype that HPI was working on in Cleveland comes out.


JR

[S15Racer]

"That prototype that HPI is working on" wont be out for at least a couple of years. Believe me, we talked on and on about this on the HPI forum be fore they shut it down:rolleyes:

[GA Maxx]

the actual release of the new hpi tourer is 1 maybe 2 years away

[popsracer]

Dr. Techn0;

I ALREADY have all of the nessesary equipment minus a Dyno. Looking for that extra EDGE over the competition and have no problem being able to affors one.
Am running a Pro-3 in stock class and would probally buy a Losi XXXS or the X-Ray T-2 if I ever decide to race MOD. (not likely)
I was an Industrial Maintenace Mechanic/Electrician for 25+ yrs and have recently retired (I am 46 yrs, today). There are a total of 8 R/C cars in our family and 4-5 get RACED 3 out of 4 weekends a month.

SoSidge;

My car ALSO is basicly stock. Hop-Ups; Aluminum Motor plate and counter shaft plate. Bladders in the shocks and stiffer springs for the shocks and recently the Front oneway. I have the upper deck but didn't like the battery hassel with it, so I left it off. No Parts breakage except for the little rings on the outdrives. That's it, in just over 4 months of racing.
So I agree with your statements about the cars durability.

Dr. Techn0;

I would also race at Haras track but they are currently NOT holding races at Rickey's R/C in Temecula. Have met Hara twice, nice quiet spoken person.

X-treme Pro 3;

Nice car, Want to explain the Rally tires futher?

Popsracer
Team Mach 5
Southern California

[popsracer]

Hey guys;

My Wife bought me a Digital Camcorder for my BD today, so as soon I Figure everything out and get the cable needed.
(Extreme Pro 3, Take note:)
I will upload "1" picture of my Pro-3 and "1" of the r/c stable.

Popsracer
:D

[GA Maxx]

Originally posted by popsracer


X-treme Pro 3;

Nice car, Want to explain the Rally tires futher?

Popsracer
Team Mach 5
Southern California

try them on carpet, and you will see ;)

[nomac]

buy the time hpi comes out with a new car i'll have my own car built! i plan to have it feature pillow ball suspension, shaft driven, ad
justable carbon fibre plate chassis, AND in-board shocks!

jr* looking forward to it. you comin to durham this week.

[S15Racer]

Hey X-treme Pro 3, sweet car, thats the invector chassis isn't it?

[GA Maxx]

yes it is i ve got a list of all the hop ups so far if you want them?

[popsracer]

Ok, here it is.

Here's a better picture.

Popsracer

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by X-treme Pro 3
yes it is i ve got a list of all the hop ups so far if you want them?

Alright, lets have it. I can already name quite a few things on the car, invector chassis, purple aluminum everything, are those HB diffs? Bring on the full list;)

[GA Maxx]

th rear diff is standard:eek:

i have titanium CVDS which are 3mm longer and the HB rear diff doesnt work with them

heres a list
Quick Release Spur Hub
Purple Heatsink motor plate
Purple Belt tensioner
HB Front Shock Tower
HB Rear Shock Tower
HB Front 4deg purple aluminium C-hub
HB Rear 1 deg Purple Aluminium Hub Carrier
HPI Clamp Type purple aluminium Hexes
HB Upper Deck
HPI Front Purple Bulkhead
Invector Chassis
Jet Purple Battery Bar
Jet Front Purple Knuckles
Jet Rear Upper Bulkhead
Jet Rear BulkHead
Jet Purple Steering
Jet Front upper Bulkhead
Titanium CVD's
Titanium Screw Set
Titanium turnbuckles
Front 1 way diff
Penguin front shock tower
Penguin Rear shock tower
HPI GRaphite bumper plate
HPI Low friction belts
HPI alloy spring stopper perches 72422

ive probabley forgot a few

[trakhak]

Anyone have any suggestions on who has the best mail order prices? And yes, I have checked my local hobby shop, they carry Losi and Assoc and do not really believe in the Pro 3. I like playing the underdog. Any help greatly appreciated. Peace

[toddzilla]

dr techno----"You think HPI and others aftermarket companies spend a fortune on R&D to come out with parts that have no use? No performance advantage? you got to be kidding!"


actually, i think many "hop ups" have no use other than to look cool and make money for the manufacturer.. didn't you read the recent article in rcca about that tc3 they had some company put every hop up they make on it and it barely went quicker at all? granted, aluminum a-arms will rarely break, but how many sets of stock a arms can you buy for the cost of a set of aluminum ones?

i'm not against hop ups, i just think alot of it is marketing b.s.

[GA Maxx]

lol most hop upsare just eye candy but they d look cool, thats why i bought them

[trippin freddy]

Dr. Techno: More information on that god... i mean car of yours please! Such things as what hopups does the hara edition come with, how long the project took you, I want a full report!!

Thank you so much for showing me that... that... creature of beauty.

*drool* Pro 3...

[GA Maxx]

DR Techno, where ddi you get the square parts from

i need R/C Square shock threaded Cases and i have every hop up for it.
If i was you i d get titanium CVD's, they arent purple but are much better than the purple ones. I got mine from TIR in The UK, Only problem is they dont work with the HB rear diff. I also have there screw set and there turnbuckle set.

Where did you get your Ceramic bearings from and how much. Ive found them for around £100 but bein onl;y 15 and i ghave bought all parts myself with a job i can tafford these. Anywhere cheaper?

thanks

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by X-treme Pro 3
Quick Release Spur Hub
Purple Heatsink motor plate
Purple Belt tensioner
HB Front Shock Tower
HB Rear Shock Tower
HB Front 4deg purple aluminium C-hub
HB Rear 1 deg Purple Aluminium Hub Carrier
HPI Clamp Type purple aluminium Hexes
HB Upper Deck
HPI Front Purple Bulkhead
Invector Chassis
Jet Purple Battery Bar
Jet Front Purple Knuckles
Jet Rear Upper Bulkhead
Jet Rear BulkHead
Jet Purple Steering
Jet Front upper Bulkhead
Titanium CVD's
Titanium Screw Set
Titanium turnbuckles
Front 1 way diff
Penguin front shock tower
Penguin Rear shock tower
HPI GRaphite bumper plate
HPI Low friction belts
HPI alloy spring stopper perches 72422

ive probabley forgot a few

Holy crap:eek:

Thats just about every part anyone ever made for the pro 3!
Hmmm, I see HB shock towers on your list, I heard some bad things about those on the HPI board, something about them messing up the shock lengths, have you had any problems with them?

[GA Maxx]

i had no probs but i u[graded to the penguin. the HB are ok, but i dotn recomend them

[S15Racer]

Why not?

[GA Maxx]

they take alot of setting up for correct ride height, and dont have many settings
id get the HPI

[S15Racer]

Yeah, just put those on my tower hobbies wish list.
BTW, why is no one posting in here anymore?

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by S15Racer
Yeah, just put those on my tower hobbies wish list.
BTW, why is no one posting in here anymore?

Why is nobody posting here anymore? read the previous page. There's some god-like wannabes demeaning others for having a better car then him so a few other posters including myself have no will to even continue this thread. Just so you know.

Dr. Techn0
P.S. To those who've seen and praised my car, "Thank you".:)

[JR in NC]

Help guys,

You mention using parts from HB is that Hot Bodies, if it is what is their website or where do you find them. This goes the same for, jet,square, and cross I can't seem to find anything about these's companies

Where should I start upgrading, with what parts. Thanks for your help


JR in NC

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Yes HB is short for Hot Bodies.
to view all the items available you'll need to go the HPI japan site
or see: http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/contents/hotbodies/index.html

you can order direct from Ricky's Rc car, they have most of everything except for the delrin diffs.
http://www.rickysrccar.com/

the HB option parts are not on the website, you'll nedd to call direct with part no. to order.

Also best place to order in HK is RcModel:
http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/eshopping/default.htm


If you just bought a basic Pro3 kit..first thing to get is the upperdeck. This will drastically improve the handling. HPI just release the one-piece graphite upperdeck and graphite chassis plate. both are available now from Tower Hobbies. I highly recommend getting them.

See the HPI parts on my car at:
http://groups.msn.com/RCZOMBIES/pictures

The blue version has the HB chassis and upperdeck.
3.5 version has HPI chassis and upperdeck.

Good luck with your car....
:)

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by S15Racer
.....
BTW, why is no one posting in here anymore?

Let's concentrate on helping each other on performance and racing needs... there is no need to bash each others cars. :)

Happy Holidays to all....

[GA Maxx]

this is a bit like the ex us forum, same users, lol Dr techno, and Ramon, nice to see you posting again. i use the unnoficial hpi europe forum now (probabley because im the admin:P) www.hpiforums.com if your interested

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by X-treme Pro 3
this is a bit like the ex us forum, same users, lol Dr techno, and Ramon, nice to see you posting again. i use the unnoficial hpi europe forum now (probabley because im the admin:P) www.hpiforums.com if your interested

Kewl! Thanks for the heads up. I'll check in tonight. Nice to have a place to hang as long as there's no wienners. LOL. Sorry, I had to get that off my chest... LOL :p

Dr. Techn0

[GA Maxx]

lol

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
Let's concentrate on helping each other on performance and racing needs... there is no need to bash each others cars. :)

Happy Holidays to all....

My point exactly, Hey RC-ZOMBIES, great to see (:D ) you again.
If were finally talking about the pro 3 again, then I have a question. Ive got the HPI upperdeck for my pro 3, I'm getting the HPI chassis, middle shaft mount and heat sink motor plate for Christmas, what next? I was thinking carbide diff balls, and maybe graphite shock towers, anything else that should be on the priority list?

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by S15Racer
My point exactly, Hey RC-ZOMBIES, great to see (:D ) you again.
If were finally talking about the pro 3 again, then I have a question. Ive got the HPI upperdeck for my pro 3, I'm getting the HPI chassis, middle shaft mount and heat sink motor plate for Christmas, what next? I was thinking carbide diff balls, and maybe graphite shock towers, anything else that should be on the priority list?

I would get the woven graphite shock towers next. they will help to tune the car even further vs stock towers. many more mounting locations. There are sereral on Ebay right now. You may also want to get if you havn't already are HPI Grey #6852 springs. or HB springs if you're able to order overseas in HK. I've used the grey springs or HB springs on asphalt, parking lot, and on carpet. Possibly the only springs you'll ever need. Other things to consider: Front one-way diff, center one-way pulley, sway bars set front /rear etc....

Happy Holidays...

[S15Racer]

The shock towers first? OK. I don't know about the one way, my car is set up pretty loose already, I'll have to see how it handles one carpet this winter before I buy any of those. Carpet, that brings up another question: Whats a good set up for carpet as far as tires and inserts and such. It would be for a very stiff car running stock motors. Appreciate it

Happy Holidays 2 U 2

[RC-ZOMBIES]

get back to you on the carpet setup... don't have my setup sheets with me... do you have a fax.. if so PM your fax # and I'll send it to you...

oneways on carpets is recommended do to the high traction. it will help you corner alot faster. But do try it first without and see how it does.

[sosidge]

Carpet setup that's working ok for me (on Jaco Blue foams all round).

Everything standard expect for...

HB top deck fitted
Camber set for even tyre wear (around 2deg all round I'd say)

Front:
Yellow 25mm spings (390-ish gms/mm)
80wt shock oil
3deg caster hubs, with 2mm spacer.
5mm ride height
2mm droop

Rear
Grey 27mm springs (340-ish gms/mm)
60wt shock oil
HB 1 deg toe in hubs (makes for 3 deg at the wheel - probably not an important part of the setup)
5.5mm ride height.
3mm droop

Things to experiment with - swaybars, I also was using a higher rear roll centre, which makes the rear of the car skip quicker around the corner, but you lose a bit of momentum and smoothness, so I'm back to the standard camber link position.

One way front diff with foams for me is far too responsive on the steering - by really decreasing the rates I can get the car around, but I lose confidence in the car in close racing. One-way pulley may be better for me at least - car is currently permanent 4wd.

[S15Racer]

Hmmm... Darnit, I don't have a fax. If you could just give me some basic info, that would be fine. I was thinking of using those HPI carpet advans with some color HPI pro molded insert, am I far off?

[RC-ZOMBIES]

As soon as I find the setup sheets I'll post it.. it's been a while since I raced.. :(
those Advan carpet tires don't work. If you're going to use Rubber tires...try HPI 23R or 27R with blue firm inserts. the same if you use Sorex tires. :)

[S15Racer]

Oh, hey sosidge, looks like we posted at the same time:)

[S15Racer]

Now everyones posting at the same :D time Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
As soon as I find the setup sheets I'll post it.. it's been a while since I raced.. :(
those Advan carpet tires don't work. If you're going to use Rubber tires...try HPI 23R or 27R with blue firm inserts. the same if you use Sorex tires. :)

Advans don't work, thats strange. I'll look for those 23R/27R's on tower. Acually, how do foam tires compare to rubers in price?

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Before you buy foams.. check with you track first...sometime they don't allow foam tires and rubber tire only rule is enforced. This was the case at the track hear...it was only this year that foam tires were allowed but were limited to certain classes mod and 19T spec. all other classes must use rubber tires.

Cost is almost the same..considering if you buy rubber you'll have to buy wheels and inserts as well.

[S15Racer]

OK, I'll check with the track. Another thing, don't foam tires wear down faster than rubber?

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by S15Racer
OK, I'll check with the track. Another thing, don't foam tires wear down faster than rubber?

yup. :(

[sosidge]

The foams physically wear, and go down in diameter - so you always have to check ride-height and re-adjust the droop to keep a consistent car. I used to get about 6 meetings out of a set

Rubbers don't change diameter (that you'd notice), but they won't grip well forever.

[S15Racer]

Now see, thats a problem for me. I can't afford to buy a new set of tires every 6 races:( I'm just a poor kid with an expensive toy. Just kidding, it more than a toy, I know this. It just that its so expensive to maintain, I've got over $175 worth of parts on my wishlist, and none of them is priced over $20:eek:
Sorry, I know I wining, I'll stop;)

[S15Racer]

Help please! I'm having some trouble with my HPI graphite upperdeck. When I run my pro 3 around my driveway, just bashing, the 2 rear screws that secure the deck to the rear bulkheads loosen and stick up about 1/4'' ubove the deck. I can't explain it, any help would be appreciated, thanx.

[sosidge]

I assume the spacers are all in the correct positions, and the upperdeck isn't bent like a banana?

If so, a bit of threadlock or superglue should help stop the screws working loose.

If the top deck is bent like a banana, you need to mess around with the spacers to get it to sit flat and true.

[dgrobe2112]

I got a Pro 3, changed to 48 pitch gears.. What gears should i run on a medium track.. witha p2k2 pro stock motor?? Looking for good all around torque and speed as well..

There will be a big oval, like a big front stretch, around turn 1 and 2, onto a back stretch.. then down the backstrech into a hairpin, and some esses, and stuff like that..

So let me know.. need the top end for the stretches.. but need some good torqe for the inside of the track..

Maybe just get me in the ballpark.. and i will tweak from there..

Thanks for the help

[sosidge]

On tight tracks I've been running between a 25 and a 27 pinion with an 81 spur.

On bigger tracks I've gone as high as 31 on an 81, with room to go even higher.

81 is a good choice spur, because it'll suit pinions for pretty much any kind of motor.

I'd start with 27/81 - but your actual ratio depends on how the car feels to you, and your laptimes.

[dgrobe2112]

Thanks alot.. i apreciate the help.. thats what i will do.. 81/27..

Then if i need more torque, for bottom end.. run lower on the pinion right??

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by sosidge
I assume the spacers are all in the correct positions, and the upperdeck isn't bent like a banana?

If so, a bit of threadlock or superglue should help stop the screws working loose.

If the top deck is bent like a banana, you need to mess around with the spacers to get it to sit flat and true.

Ok I'll try that, I just got this upperdeck, and it is very true. What do you think could be causing this. Could it just be that the holes in my (plastic:mad: ) rear bulkheads are striped out?

[dgrobe2112]

I got a upper deck that goes over the center of my car.. now.. i put this item on my car.. and now it is a pain in the ass to get my batteries in and out of the car.. i have to unhook my steering servo.. and force the batteries in.. Did i do something wrong??

here is a link to the upper brace that i have..

http://windtunnelracing.homestead.com/files/HPIpro3_upperdeck_sm.jpg

Let me know

Thanks

[RC-ZOMBIES]

That's a copy of the HB upperdeck.
best way to install your cells is going through between the main belt and run a split pack sidexside. replace center battery bar with flex wire.

[dgrobe2112]

Well, that sux.. cuz i do run 1 stick pack.. so your talking about running a ste of batteries like this

000_000

Is that what your talking about?? If so, that means i gotta redo all my batteries..

About how long of wire do i need between, just a inch or 2??

The Pro 3 only holds 6 cells.. so i dont have alot of room for extra wire to be sticking out..

[RC-ZOMBIES]

yes..
wire length about the same as the battery bar. on about 1in.long. and it will not stick out. :)

[dgrobe2112]

Thanks alot.. Starting the onroad series this saturday, i am the only HPI out there.. im all carbon.. hoping to get this thing running good.. so i am doing my final setups right now.. getting everything ready..

thanks alot

RC did you ever sell your Pro 3, and get the Hara Edition?? i saw you had yours on Ebay.. Too bad you sold it so soon, cuz i got my bonus check this past friday.. went and spent some money on alot of Parts, and stuff, like electronics and stuff like that..

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by dgrobe2112
Thanks alot.. Starting the onroad series this saturday, i am the only HPI out there.. im all carbon.. hoping to get this thing running good.. so i am doing my final setups right now.. getting everything ready..

thanks alot

RC did you ever sell your Pro 3, and get the Hara Edition?? i saw you had yours on Ebay.. Too bad you sold it so soon, cuz i got my bonus check this past friday.. went and spent some money on alot of Parts, and stuff, like electronics and stuff like that..

boy! are you in luck.. LOLOLOL:p

RCZ, I think we have a winner here. ROFLMAO!


Dr. Techn0

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by dgrobe2112
I got a upper deck that goes over the center of my car.. now.. i put this item on my car.. and now it is a pain in the ass to get my batteries in and out of the car.. i have to unhook my steering servo.. and force the batteries in.. Did i do something wrong??

here is a link to the upper brace that i have..

http://windtunnelracing.homestead.com/files/HPIpro3_upperdeck_sm.jpg

Let me know

Thanks

You're in luck! I've got two Hara Edition and they both have this problem and I've found the easiest and quickest fix for this. I'm hestitant to post the fix though. Maybe "Mr. Oscar Myer Wienner" will reply to you with a fix cause I sure ain't want him to throw another wienner at me. That, or you can PM me and I'll tell you how it's done easily along with the pics.

Dr. Techn0
P.S. I've been racing 3 hours per day now and have swap my batteries hundreds of time using this fix. LOL

[sosidge]

Grow up Dr Techno - seems everyone in the thread has moved on except you.

And why should I post a fix when RC Zombies has already given the best answer? Personally I can just about manhandle a side-by-side in without a wire link, but it all depends on the arrangement of your radio gear/battery connectors.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by dgrobe2112
Thanks alot.. Starting the onroad series this saturday, i am the only HPI out there.. im all carbon.. hoping to get this thing running good.. so i am doing my final setups right now.. getting everything ready..

thanks alot

RC did you ever sell your Pro 3, and get the Hara Edition?? i saw you had yours on Ebay.. Too bad you sold it so soon, cuz i got my bonus check this past friday.. went and spent some money on alot of Parts, and stuff, like electronics and stuff like that..


nope..did not sell it.. still have it..and still available..waiting for the right offer to come along. :)

Dr.Techno...I wish I could 3hr of practice in a day...with the baby keeping me busy 24hr a day..I'm luck to get 1 pack in a month. :(
well at least I'm happy with my baby boy and look forward to taking him to the track when he get old enough. His id name will be Zombie jr. :D

[S15Racer]

You're not selling your blue pro 3 are you?
:eek:

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
Dr.Techno...I wish I could 3hr of practice in a day...with the baby keeping me busy 24hr a day..I'm luck to get 1 pack in a month. :(
well at least I'm happy with my baby boy and look forward to taking him to the track when he get old enough. His id name will be Zombie jr. :D

You edited your post when I was posting mine:) BTW congrats on Zombie Jr. ;)

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
nope..did not sell it.. still have it..and still available..waiting for the right offer to come along. :)

Dr.Techno...I wish I could 3hr of practice in a day...with the baby keeping me busy 24hr a day..I'm luck to get 1 pack in a month. :(
well at least I'm happy with my baby boy and look forward to taking him to the track when he get old enough. His id name will be Zombie jr. :D

RCZ, Yeah Zombie Jr. sounds great! :D

btw, still haven't gotten those tires yet. Maybe later on today. You've got to come down here w/ Jr. and run a few laps. I just had the guys put soda on it yesterday so we'll see how those tires hold. LOL

Oh, I'm not going to you know where cause the P4 isn't running this afternoon. Me think he'll run against B.Kinwald tomorrow and I'll be there.hehe So, I'm building the 414 WC to get ready for NORCAL.

Dr. Techn0;)

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by Dr. Techn0
RCZ, Yeah Zombie Jr. sounds great! :D

btw, still haven't gotten those tires yet. Maybe later on today. You've got to come down here w/ Jr. and run a few laps. I just had the guys put soda on it yesterday so we'll see how those tires hold. LOL

Oh, I'm not going to you know where cause the P4 isn't running this afternoon. Me think he'll run against B.Kinwald tomorrow and I'll be there.hehe So, I'm building the 414 WC to get ready for NORCAL.

Dr. Techn0;)

Tire should arrive today or tommorrow..sorry I didn't send it priority..I didn't have a car to go to the P.O.

gee..you have 414 WC too!... you didn't tell me you had one. how's it handle? anybetter than the P3?
I was thinking of getting the new EVO-III for the TCS race up here in Feb.... If I can get away..maybe I'll take a drive down for the Norcal chanpionship.

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
Tire should arrive today or tommorrow..sorry I didn't send it priority..I didn't have a car to go to the P.O.

gee..you have 414 WC too!... you didn't tell me you had one. how's it handle? anybetter than the P3?
I was thinking of getting the new EVO-III for the TCS race up here in Feb.... If I can get away..maybe I'll take a drive down for the Norcal chanpionship.

What? I thought you were going in the first place. That's why I went ahead and got the 414wc, its still in the sealed box. LOL.. Darn thing is prices at 7 bills now. With all the hype, I really don't know. But with so much practice everyday. I might even use the TL-01 and run stock just to prove I can. ;) I bet the new s9550 will do it's justice along with out other trade secrets. LOL..

Dr. Techn0

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by Dr. Techn0
What? I thought you were going in the first place. That's why I went ahead and got the 414wc, its still in the sealed box. LOL.. Darn thing is prices at 7 bills now. With all the hype, I really don't know. But with so much practice everyday. I might even use the TL-01 and run stock just to prove I can. ;) I bet the new s9550 will do it's justice along with out other trade secrets. LOL..

Dr. Techn0

7big ones..:eek:

[*Miller*]

Hey. Im getting my Pro3 soon, so I will be able to contribute to this thread some more. Just a question. I will be running with a Team Orion stock motor. Is this motor good in the Pro3? Any idea on what speed would be likely? Thanks

[sosidge]

The team orion stocks are good - if you're looking for speed runs, 20-25mph is the ball park.

[S15Racer]

Hey, while we're on this topic, I've got a question. I'll be running a pro 3 with a P2K pro on a 36' X 80' carpet track. It has one long straitaway (SP?) and the rest is tight. What would be a good gear to run on this track?

[S15Racer]

Man, no ones posted in here since me:(

Oh well, I have another question, acually just a major problem. I just got some stuff for my pro3. I got the HPI woven chassis, heat sink motor plate and the aluminum middle shaft mount. The trouble is, since I put the new parts on, the thing glitches like crazy. It ran perfect before I put on the new parts. What did I do wrong:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

[bionictony]

woven graphite conducts electricity.. so make sure no bare wires are touching the chassis. i'm going to get the hpi woven graphite chassis soon. hopefully i wont have that problem. does the chassis make your pro 3 pretty stiff?

[dgrobe2112]

I raced my Pro 3 for the first time this weekend since i hopped it up.. I put the pengin main chassis on.. (thank you RCzombies, that is your old chassis) and front and rear carbon fiber shock towers (thank you RCzombies) aluminum rear brace, and the penguin carbon side plates as well.. the car is plenty light.. but i my first race was nothing but glitches.. cuz i had a battery wire touching the chassis.. So.. make sure no exposed wires.. after i fixed that problem.. the car ran fine.. i just gotta get out and practice..

Oh yeah.. im still waiting on that Hot bodies upper brace fix.. besides makeing my batteries like this

000_000

Thanks again..

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by bionictony
woven graphite conducts electricity.. so make sure no bare wires are touching the chassis. i'm going to get the hpi woven graphite chassis soon. hopefully i wont have that problem. does the chassis make your pro 3 pretty stiff?

OK, does it make a difference that I didn't file down the edges of the battery slots like it said to? I didn't have a file on hand and I was kinda in a hurry:rolleyes:

PS. yea the new chassis+upperdeck (HPI) makes the car extremely stiff:)

[twinturboz24]

S15, check your PM.

[S15Racer]

did

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by S15Racer
OK, does it make a difference that I didn't file down the edges of the battery slots like it said to? I didn't have a file on hand and I was kinda in a hurry:rolleyes:

PS. yea the new chassis+upperdeck (HPI) makes the car extremely stiff:)

C'mon, I really need help here:(

[bionictony]

follow the directions? hahah.. arent the edges sharp? wont it cut into the battery labels or something? i heard it was a good ideal to put ca glue on the edges of woven graphite parts to prevent splitting. not sure if it really works though.

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by bionictony
follow the directions? hahah.. arent the edges sharp? wont it cut into the battery labels or something? i heard it was a good ideal to put ca glue on the edges of woven graphite parts to prevent splitting. not sure if it really works though.

You're mocking me aren't you;)

I have since filed down the edges of the battery slots, man thats a lot of trouble. As soon as I get this glitch fixed I'll be able to go race. Thanx 4 your help, I think:D

[Dr. Techn0]

Here's a suggestion,

Just electrical taped the bottom of your RX and trace the thin antenna line to the post and you should be set. Carbon are known to give glitches.

hope it helps.

Dr. Techn0

[S15Racer]

Thanx 4 the tip, I'll try that. Acually I think what the problem is is that The battery pack I've been testing with has holes in the shrink wrap and it shorting out on the chassis. But I will try the electrical tape.

BTW, why does it say to file down the battery slots to prevent shorting. Cause I did this and then ran the car, the batteries still shorting out and I almost set the thing on fire:eek: It seems that filing down the slots just increased the contact area between the cells and the chassis and made the shorting worse. Just a thought:cool:

[sosidge]

You file down the battery slots to get the cells to "sit" better, not to prevent shorting.

[*Miller*]

I just finished making my Pro3. Havent ran it yet, but when I have, ill report back :cool:

[AssociatedRacer]

Why don't any of you run the molded graphite chassis and just use the top deck?

[sosidge]

That's the chassis combo I use

[newracer]

graphite can be very sharp and will cut into the shrink wrap and cause shorts, you file down the slots to prevent this as well as let the batteries sit better in the chassis

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by TEAMLOSIRACER
Why don't any of you run the molded graphite chassis and just use the top deck?

Because the woven plate chassis+ upperdeck is lighter, and it just looks better darn it all:D

And I'm still glitching. I put a ton of electrical tape on the bottom of the rx, and it helped a lot (Thanx Dr Techno) but the car still glitches moderatly from maybe 50 or 60 ft. Any other advice on reducing glitches caused by graphite? Could it just be a minor glitch that the car had before and the graphite plate is just making it more noticable? (sp)

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by S15Racer
Because the woven plate chassis+ upperdeck is lighter, and it just looks better darn it all:D

And I'm still glitching. I put a ton of electrical tape on the bottom of the rx, and it helped a lot (Thanx Dr Techno) but the car still glitches moderatly from maybe 50 or 60 ft. Any other advice on reducing glitches caused by graphite? Could it just be a minor glitch that the car had before and the graphite plate is just making it more noticable? (sp)

Ok, here's a dumb suggestions from me:

Have you checked to see you Receiver to see if you've had the crystals switched? RX crystal to the receiver and TX crystal to the transimitter because they're .05 mhz step down on a pair.


Dr. Techn0

[S15Racer]

Just checked it, its good.

Will it cause glitching if the rx crystal is too tight in the slot, because I can't get it out of mine:confused:

[S15Racer]

This is kinda off the current topic but can I use HPI tires with sorex inserts? And if not, whats the sorex equivilent to an HPI 23R slick?

[Dr. Techn0]

Originally posted by S15Racer
Just checked it, its good.

Will it cause glitching if the rx crystal is too tight in the slot, because I can't get it out of mine:confused:

What brand of radio are you using? where is your antenna mounted? I suspect you might have a semi-bad reciever.

Dr. Techn0

[S15Racer]

Its an almost brand new Airtronics MX3. The antenna is mounted in the stock pro 3 location, right by the ESC and reciever:rolleyes:

[corwin99]

Originally posted by S15Racer
This is kinda off the current topic but can I use HPI tires with sorex inserts? And if not, whats the sorex equivilent to an HPI 23R slick?

Sure ya can :) I have sorex inserts with my HPI Advan's right now.

I just picked up a Pro 3... just arrived today. Just started reading up on what everyone's got and stuff. Really interesting stuff. I'll probably start building it tonight after work for a bit before i party the new year up! then tomorrow :) hopefully have it done for the weekend :)

[S15Racer]

Originally posted by corwin99
Sure ya can :) I have sorex inserts with my HPI Advan's right now.



Well thats reasuring concidering I already bought the HPI tires:D
Hope to hear more about your pro 3 soon.

BTW, how much did you pay for it?

[rcharry]

Why does everyone dis on this great car, im the only one at my track running one and hobby shops here dont carry much parts for it. And is there a booklet or someing like that that gives us tuning options, cuz when u buy the car they give u a whole bag of parts so you can tune it to your needs but they only tell u 2 tuneing options for the sespension. If anyone know some tuning options for all those extra parts please LMK.
thanks

[AssociatedRacer]

Hey, do you guys remember how the pro3 was 110 at sheldon and 130 at ultimate hobbies? Are there any good deals like that again. And also any place to buy the spec V or the one with the molded graphite?

[TEM]

rcharry, The truth is, the Pro3 is not so great. Tuning options in the kit are not much and only 1 is useful, if that. I've got one myself that is mildly modded and I HATE it! I don't know about the guys on asphalt, but on carpet this car sucks. There is waaaay too much slop and flex. You'll need(or want anyways), graphite chassis(woven carbon fiber if you got the $$), top deck, graphite arms, hub carriers, hubs, sway bar kit front and back. Tires, inserts, shock oil and springs; as with any other car. This will get you going alot better. You can put in aluminium bulkheads(makes your drive train more efficient), but won't make much difference unless you're good. Other mods if you got cash to throw on top; carbon fiber shock towers, oneways(track dependent), motor heatsink, the long list of Ti stuff... etc, etc, etc.. I'd say leave the car as is, and go for something else!

[sosidge]

This (http://home.tiscali.be/be067749/58/) is an excellent place to find descriptions of what various tuning options will do - use the shortcut to the "Touring Car Setup Guide" if physics isn't your thing.

[JR in NC]

TEAMLOSIRACER,
Check your PM, frankly the Pro 3 is just like any other cheaper kit car you have got to change it over to graphite and Ti to make it competive. The XXX-S the TC3 their all that way.


JR in NC

[corwin99]

Originally posted by S15Racer
Well thats reasuring concidering I already bought the HPI tires:D
Hope to hear more about your pro 3 soon.

BTW, how much did you pay for it?

hehe... with all inserts (even like 26mm ones) you can just snip off the edges and stuff and make it fit if it doesn't :) Hell for my first tamiya before the internet was around I made my own inserts out of foam when I couldn't buy any :)

I paid about $120US for mine... I've heard the car isn't that great for racing.. all the carpet racers are dissin' it and it requires a ton of money in hop ups to perform like what people say it should have performed like out of the box. I race in parking lots and it was significantly cheaper than the xxx-s and tc3, and from what i heard, i wouldn't see a difference where i was racing.

I will be purchasing either an xray or a xxx-s graphite soon to check out the difference.. but before that I think i want to trick out a stampede.. it looks like a fun cheap little project.

I want of one of those TeamPRP upper decks.. but i can't seem to find them. its the only place to buy them sending in that form on their site which is hosted on like Angelfire or something?

I finished building the Pro 3 last night.. its a nice looking chasis, stupid place i got it from backordered my SpeedGems 2 Sapphire and forgot to send me one of the battery pack and forgot to send me the ESC i ordered, so right now its gonna sit here unfinished. I have another ESC coming in from Ebay that i'll pop in soon as i get it.

[rcharry]

TEM, my whole car is grafite (sorry), and i do have the aluminum front bulkheads along w/ the aluminum heat sink, and rear sway bars, just put a little $$$$ and u got a great car, and buying all that cost just as much a TC3 factory team. And thanks sosidge
harry

[TEM]

rcharry, Maybe buying all that stuff makes the car cost as much as a factory team TC3, but it