*** Mugen MRX3 Forum V1.0 *** [Archive] - Page 2

tekrsq

02-26-2003, 09:54 AM

I use the Ofna box that has a single 12v motor sticking out of the side (don't remember the part #, sorry), with a gell cell battery. Never had problem turning any engine. The boxes with dual motors don't have the torque to spin the true race bred, high compression engines. The ofna box is a little pricey, but you get what you pay for. It's better to spend a little more up front, than buy a cheap box that either won't do the job at all, or will burn up trying to do the job.

Meesh

02-26-2003, 10:13 AM

That is what I was afraid of

Manbik

02-26-2003, 10:20 AM

The Mugen box is nice but I have seen it having problems trying to start motors that are new or have high compression.

I have an Ofna box with a gel battery, the dual motor setup and it works fine for me. People with new engines will come to me to use my box when breaking in their engines because it turns over so well.

tekrsq

02-26-2003, 10:43 AM

You must have gotten the "freak of nature", good box. There are 2 guys here that ran the Ofna box with the dual motor(1 with the gell cell, 1 with the battery packs). They had constant problems with it not spinning their engines. They'd end up using mine, and eventually both of them bought a box like mine. They haven't had any problems since.

NitroOwnsYou

02-26-2003, 04:02 PM

Meesh,
You want the OFNA Pink 1/8th-1/10th onroad box. Thats the one Ive always ran. Jack had the Mugen box, and that seemed to work fine for him, but his engine was broken in.

You got to be very careful, and theres a few tips to help start it.

Make absolutely sure the wheel does not rub on the chassis at all, get the box up to speed before pushing all the way down on the car to start it(also watch the rear wheels, and make sure they dont rub the side of the box, as its a bit close when properly aligned on the Ofna box), and the more fuel you load up into the engine, the harder starting gets. You almost get used to hearing the proper noise when the fuel just enters the carb, then I remove finger from stinger and bam she fires up.

When did ya pick up a MRX3? What did ya pick up for an engine?

JR

NitroOwnsYou

02-26-2003, 04:09 PM

Oh yeah,
Only thing I dont like about the Ofna box with the gel cell is its too damn heavy!!!

:D

JR

Meesh

02-27-2003, 09:27 PM

Long time no see! Good to see you're still active. Picked up the MRX-3 last week from Ashford Hobby for $479.95. Scored an OS VZR .21 brand new on Ebay for $270.00. $370 on Tower so I figured I did OK. I know it's not the real hot setup but it will be fast enough for these old reflexes! I plan on renting some track time at RTE 106 this summer. Recent projects include Monster Pirate with an EK4 engine and I'm workinghg on a stretched chassis Titan with dual OS FS.40-C 4 strokes. Kept the 2 spedd in it so it should be pretty wild. E:mail me and I'll send you some pics.:D :D

macman

03-05-2003, 03:31 PM

tekrsq , where did you get the titaninum parts for your MRX-3

Thanks mac

Poindexter

03-05-2003, 03:36 PM

Originally posted by NitroOwnsYou
Oh yeah,
Only thing I dont like about the Ofna box with the gel cell is its too damn heavy!!!

:D

JR

And that's the beauty of the Mugen box: It is extremely lightweight. I have Mugens for my 1/8-scale buggies and for my on-roads, and I have never had a problem--even during break-in. I make sure that the engine isn't flooded, that the box is aligned correctly, and that my batteries are freshly charged; I also cycle the batteries in my starter box regularly to ensure good performance. I think that the weight savings off-sets any complaints of slightly-less power to start new engines...:D

tekrsq

03-05-2003, 05:10 PM

Originally posted by macman
tekrsq , where did you get the titaninum parts for your MRX-3

Thanks mac

The ti solid rear axle, rear bones and 2 spd shaft are courtesy "Smitty's Speed Works" in Washington. He doesn't have a web site, but his email is Todds670@msn.com.

KIRK S. DECKER

03-23-2003, 11:14 PM

Hi,
I was reading through your thread and I saw a couple of the guys on here are running Sirios and have pretty good things to say about them. So far i have found little info on these mills and was looking for a little more input about them ( i chose this thread because the guys her really seem to know their stuff and are giving opinions base on actual experience rather then what a friend of a friend's cousin's brother's uncle said ). My concerns are on the longevity of the engine. From what I have picked up from here and there is that the Siros need to be kept a "little cooler" than it ABC counter parts or its P/S will soon be shot...Is this true?From what I have read on this thread you are getting 3-4 gallons (under race conditions I assume) out of the p/s and still going strong. This seems to fly in the face of the generalization that Im hearing that "Sirios are good performers for the money but they dont last long..." How does the engine compare in longevity to lets say a C5?
Any input on the performance, durability, tunability (is this a very finiky engine?) etc. would be greatly appreciated. I had my mind set on purchasing a C5 but if this engine (Sirio) is is good as it sounds I might have to change my mind.

Thanks,
Kirk

KIRK S. DECKER

03-25-2003, 09:43 PM

.....

I also noticed that some of the people on this thread have the Rossi Maranello. I see that many places carry this engine but where does one find spare parts for this mill (specifically in the USA)?

Once again thank you for any info,

Kirk

Corse-R

03-26-2003, 07:01 AM

Originally posted by KIRK S. DECKER
Hi,
I was reading through your thread and I saw a couple of the guys on here are running Sirios and have pretty good things to say about them.

...

How does the engine compare in longevity to lets say a C5?
Any input on the performance, durability, tunability (is this a very finiky engine?) etc. would be greatly appreciated. I had my mind set on purchasing a C5 but if this engine (Sirio) is is good as it sounds I might have to change my mind.

I have some engines for my MRX3 (a pair of Nova R1's WC and a Sirio AAC). Love the two kinds of engines, but are quite different.

Sirios have a completely different powerband, have less bottom end, but where really shines those engine is on the high rpms. In fact I use those engine when I have low traction conditions or where the track is so huge that a lot of time you need to go full WOT.

R1's seems to be more plenty on all their powerband with better launch from low rpms, really are two very different animals. Love these two engines.

BTW: On my Sirio I passed more than 18 litres of fuel and on the Novas passed about 8 and 3 litres of fuel. All three engines have very good compression.

Saboteur

04-04-2003, 09:50 PM

I dont have this car nor can afford one till I get a job and seriously save up my cash. I did manage to see one in person at a small lhs not far from where i moved to. It was being sold with radio gear (Futaba 3pdf) and with the EVO-5 engine. This car is TOTAL SWEETNESS!! What was even better was to see it run. Watch out! :eek:

kakolitoy

04-16-2003, 01:46 PM

Originally posted by tekrsq
Chassis

Just want to know what kind of motor?

I am a freindly neighbor from Serpent Veteq, Vector and, 950 forum.

tekrsq

04-16-2003, 05:21 PM

It's a Nova SP-1 modified by Mike Queller at Speedline. I raced it against JPs, a Rody, and multiple other "modified" engines. No run against a Collari yet, but I'm looking. The only one so far that pulled away from me was the Rody C4. It wasn't smoking me, but it could pull out from me a little.

Saboteur

04-16-2003, 08:07 PM

Hey Tek, hope you dont mind if I add the pic of your mugen trio to my webpage along with the one I already have. :) BTW kakolitoy, Bruckner has two serpent impacts 2wd for $249.95 each. Its some closeout sale on both of em, just thought you might like it ;)

kakolitoy

04-16-2003, 08:47 PM

Originally posted by Saboteur
Hey Tek, hope you dont mind if I add the pic of your mugen trio to my webpage along with the one I already have. :) BTW kakolitoy, Bruckner has two serpent impacts 2wd for $249.95 each. Its some closeout sale on both of em, just thought you might like it ;)

Thanks for letting me know. I think I have enough impact. Honestly, I bought a MRX 3 just to test and SMP slide. I sold my slide right away!!! The MRX 3 is almost the same as 950. I cannot compare its almost the same. Both are great cars its going up to the driver how he set up and he drives. I got nothing to say in MRX 3 just applaus.

Anyway, for all of u. What is the differrence of the Osaka edition? I am speechless in MRX 3 already. Osaka edition sound more interesting. Also, both cars are reasonable prices compared to the Veteq when first came out and the price of SMP slide.

Well, I like testing new cars. 950 and MRX 3 is a race and will be great to watch on the World Ifmar!!

Off course all of u will put ur cash on the MRX 3, I am not biased @ all. Even though I drive Serpent cars MRX has a lot of potential so does 950. I am just amaze all us MUGEN SERPENT or any 1/8 on road in forum get along and share some tips

Anyone used the rain tires before? If u have not seen it Italian drivers used it such as Ielasi (MRX) and Domanin (950). Any feedback on this tires?

TEK do u mean SP from REX NOvarossi, I still have a old REX SP nd kept it. Do u think u can still help me and put some compresion in this motor?

show2ime

04-16-2003, 08:57 PM

wasup all. Just got an mrx3 and was wanting some general advice on gearing, setup etc from u all. i have been in nitro for a while but new to this class. i play with a ms ev05 but have a jp roo to run with.a new blue head and a used one on the way. how are u all setting up your clutches, gearing, etc. i know this is dependant on what u r doing. any advice is gladly appreciated. thx

tekrsq

04-16-2003, 09:35 PM

Saboteur-- use whatever you want. If I was worried about someone using the pics, I wouldn't have posted them for the world to see. HAVE FUN!!

Kakolitoy-- I'm not familar with the Rex SP1. In fact, I wasn't really familar with the Nova SP1 until I got this engine. My MRX-3 is my first 1/8 scale car, so I was kind of going into it blind. I did a lot of research, and knew basically what I wanted, but was still very open to suggestions. When I talked to Mike Queller about an engine (I do a LOT of business with Speedline), he suggested one of his engines. I had seen some of his .12 engines run, (and they were excellent engines), so I decided to give his .21 engine a try. My original choice was a Richey modified RB C4, but Dennis was WAAAAAY behind in engines and it woul've taken almost a year to get one of his. Either way, my engine is definetly a Nova, it has NOVA down the side of the block.

The Osaka edition has the following hop ups included in the kit:
Rear Adjustable anti-roll bar set
Rear Red spring set
Titanium King pin balls (8PCS)
Gray Clutch shoe
Titanium middle shaft
Light Weight Clutch Flyweights
Front Universal joint set
Hard clutch spring
Rear Universal joint set
Titanium steering rod set
Teflon Brake Pad set
Titanium turn buckle rod set
Ventilated Brake Disc set
Limited Edition Engraved Chassis

If you can find one, get it. It's a much better deal.

Show-- You'll probably want to upgrade to the lightweight flyweights, gray clutch disk, and the harder clutch spring. Other than that, the stock set up is an EXCELLENT starting point. Then you can fine tune/ upgrade for your driving style & track conditions.

kakolitoy

04-17-2003, 01:02 PM

Originally posted by tekrsq
Saboteur-- use whatever you want. If I was worried about someone using the pics, I wouldn't have posted them for the world to see. HAVE FUN!!

Kakolitoy-- I'm not familar with the Rex SP1. In fact, I wasn't really familar with the Nova SP1 until I got this engine. My MRX-3 is my first 1/8 scale car, so I was kind of going into it blind. I did a lot of research, and knew basically what I wanted, but was still very open to suggestions. When I talked to Mike Queller about an engine (I do a LOT of business with Speedline), he suggested one of his engines. I had seen some of his .12 engines run, (and they were excellent engines), so I decided to give his .21 engine a try. My original choice was a Richey modified RB C4, but Dennis was WAAAAAY behind in engines and it woul've taken almost a year to get one of his. Either way, my engine is definetly a Nova, it has NOVA down the side of the block.

The Osaka edition has the following hop ups included in the kit:
Rear Adjustable anti-roll bar set
Rear Red spring set
Titanium King pin balls (8PCS)
Gray Clutch shoe
Titanium middle shaft
Light Weight Clutch Flyweights
Front Universal joint set
Hard clutch spring
Rear Universal joint set
Titanium steering rod set
Teflon Brake Pad set
Titanium turn buckle rod set
Ventilated Brake Disc set
Limited Edition Engraved Chassis

If you can find one, get it. It's a much better deal.

Show-- You'll probably want to upgrade to the lightweight flyweights, gray clutch disk, and the harder clutch spring. Other than that, the stock set up is an EXCELLENT starting point. Then you can fine tune/ upgrade for your driving style & track conditions.

I can get a Osaka edition I bought the MRX because of my curiosity about the kit. Everything that u mentioned will cost about $200 to $250 in the U.S. I think the Osaka is a deal because its modified. I really got nothing to say about the MRX 3. About .21 engine I saw in ebay about Resizing. MY REX SP is well maintined and I used it a lot. There is like no compression @ all u can turn the flywhel easily. I do not want to spend about $150 on just PS I rather get a R1 brand new from H.K. Do any of u guys had any resizing done (PLs. I am not talking about sexually heheheh!!)? Any feedback will be great. Hope nobody got offended in my small joke.

Raydee

04-18-2003, 07:56 PM

Can one of you guys post a pic of one of your rear rims? I need to see what the inside of the rim looks like for some adapters I am buying. Thanks in advance!

show2ime

04-20-2003, 11:55 AM

what are the benefits of the grey shoe, lightweight flyweights and the super hard clutch spring? I know the harder spring helps with engine rpms for launch and the lightweight flyweights would do the same, but why not just tighten the centax adj nut?

ProF1TOOL

04-20-2003, 09:10 PM

Good questoin about the clutch spring. I've often wondered about that and I've come to the conclusion that the harder spring would give you a finer adjustment of the clutch. The spring is almost a must at my track. It allows the engine to "get on the pipe" quicker.

tekrsq

04-21-2003, 04:34 PM

Your're pretty much correct. You can only tighten a spring so much before you have to reshim the bell to get it off the clutch disk. The harder spring lets you do very slight adjustments without having to reshim the bell. Also the engine has to turn hgher rpm's before the spring will let the clutch engage.

Grey shoe is softer, which means it's "stickier". So you get less slippage.

Lightweight flyweights just reduces rotataing mass which lets the the engine rev up quicker, and the lighter flyweights engage at a higher rpm.

TalleyRacing2

05-24-2003, 07:45 AM

Send your p/s to OSRocket to have it resized. He won't let you down. Best $26 you will ever spend on your engine.

MCoupe

06-12-2003, 02:52 PM

1/8th scale cars have interested me ever since I got back into this hobby over a year ago after a decade long absence.

To date all Ive run are electric outdoor and indoor 1/10th scale stock touring and 1/12th GTP Modified. 1/12th Mod (12 turn) is by far my most favorite class as those cars are the real sportscars (handling wise) of the electric world plus I love the 8 minute heats.

While that has been a lot of fun the nitro bug is beginning to itch and Ive been thinking about 1/8 GTP. As I drive my real cars on race tracks, it seems to me that 1/8th would be one step closer in realism.

While Ive read about gas powered cars, for most part Im totaly green and I have some questions.

Is there a logical progression for stepping up to 1/8th, meaning should one run 1/10th scale nitro cars beforehand?

Is the experience with electric cars sufficient?

How hard is it to control one of these cars?
Speed, handling, braking?

Can a driver with one years racing experience handle one of these beasts?

How many electric or nitro seasons does one *typically* have before moving up to 1/8th?

Car durability - very or not so?

How maintenance intensive are these cars?

What are some good .21 entry level motors?

How much fuel is consumed in a single season?

Run time per tank?

How many foams used in one season, are there any rubber tires available?

Whew, that a lot of questions. Id appreciate any help.

Thank you.

Mario

Manbik

06-12-2003, 05:00 PM

As far as jumping into 1:8 from electric... I think it depends on you. The logical progression is Touring Car then 1:8 but nothing would stop you from jumping right into it. There will be a learning curve and if you are the type that adapts well, no problems. If it's what you want to do ... go for it!

Some people say that the 1:8 cars are as easy to drive as the 1/10 Sedan cars. People think they are more predictable and stable. Yes they are faster, other than that, they shouldnt be that much harder to drive. The speed will be the biggest determing factor.

Basically all gas cars are setup to run approx. 5 minutes. The one thing that you probably have not experienced yet in electric are the pit stops that we have to perform in order to keep running during a 20 minute race.

I don't think there are any "entry level" engines. There are engines that are less expensive than others though. First time out, I would stay away from a modified motor and stick to a stock out of the box engine. It will last longer and at first, you won't need or be able to control the power of a mod engine. Not saying that you can't... but it's more about your driving line and style and the handling of the car than how fast can the car down the straight sections.

The rest of your questions depend on circumstances. Tire wear will be dependant on the surface you run on. Total fuel consumption will obviously depend on how often you run the car. Durability is probably the same as any other class of gas car.

The 1:8 cars are more sensitive to setup though. So consider that you will need setup guages right off the bat and a Tire Truer or access to one also.

Personally I enjoy the class because of the technical side. I enjoy looking for that perfect setup and tuning the car's suspension and the fact they do 70-80mph helps also. :D

-Jason
MRX3.com

Corse-R

06-13-2003, 04:35 AM

Originally posted by MCoupe
Is there a logical progression for stepping up to 1/8th, meaning should one run 1/10th scale nitro cars beforehand?

Is the experience with electric cars sufficient?

How hard is it to control one of these cars? Speed, handling, braking?

Can a driver with one years racing experience handle one of these beasts?

How many electric or nitro seasons does one *typically* have before moving up to 1/8th?

Car durability - very or not so?

How maintenance intensive are these cars?

What are some good .21 entry level motors?

How much fuel is consumed in a single season?

Run time per tank?

How many foams used in one season, are there any rubber tires available?

Whew, that a lot of questions. Id appreciate any help.

Thank you.

Mario

Uhm.... very tough questions, but I come from electric classes (run previously 190mm cars and 1/10 & 1/12) and think that people coming from electric class have a slight advantage about setup vs. people that didn't went to EP in the past. Your experience in electric cars would be fine, but not definitive is a good ballpark but those cars are a different animals.

In terms of speed, stability and grip those cars excel because enjoy massive amounts of grip for their bodies, think that as much quicker you go, more grip you have with those cars. Acceleration and speed is maximum (think about 70Mph or about 117Km/h of top speed, probably slightly more).

Those cars with about 2500 grams and more than 2.5Hp bolted on them are slightly tough on maintenance, specially on transmission parts.

For a good entry level .21 engine, try to avoid modified ones and go for an 'old' Nova R1 or Sirio .21 AAC and lean accordingly to your power desires.

About fuel, think that one 125cc tank lasts barely 5 or 5:30 minutes, probably slightly more, depending on how much you lean your engine. One Litre of fuel lasts about 45 minutes, make yourself your calculations. :)

Foams is another problem of those cars, they eat any kind of foams you put on them, for a tipical race you need up to three sets of foams (one for qualifiers, other for semifinals - up to two 20min semis, and other for finals). A tyre truer is mandatory on this category.

Expect that answers and the ones from Jason will suffice you and you're ready to buy your next black bea.... er... your new 1/8 scale car. :D

MCoupe

06-13-2003, 12:46 PM

Manbik, Corse-R -

thanks for your replies. Your information is certainly very helpful.

Manbik, nice website!

Im pretty convinced Im going to join the 1/8th brigade but Im still a bit nervous - perhaps that will pass once I become more informed.

Im going to check on Ebay to see if I can find a a car with a .21 engine and spares for a decent price on Ebay. Im sure I will find something.

I have found the Mugen conference on Sgrid and found some good information there. Still waiting for a reply from the admin to get my password so that I can post.

Just of the top of my head, once I get the car (with servos)I will have to get the following:

Starter Box
Fuel
Pit Bottle
Set Up Board
Glow Igniter
Glow Plugs
FailSafe
Springs
Shock Oil
Receiver / Servo Battery Pack
Traction Compound??
Receiver

As far as spares are concerned I would think the following:
Front Arms & Hardware
C Hubs
Front CVD
Shock Tower
Belts
Transmission Gears
Clutch shoes

Few more noob questions:

I have a FM KO Propo EX Mars-1 Radio. Should be alright, right? Any special receiver considerations? I either use Novak XXLs or the KO receivers.

Racing. Do you need your own pit-man? IOW, bring along a friend to refuel and do make adjustments on the fly?

Or

Do the folks who attend the race (other racers) help out with pit duties? Is there a pit-man pool?

What do you guys estimate your annual racing expenses to be?

Are there any good 1/8th scale car publications?

Im based in central NJ, so I think the closest club is the Edison Radio Control Car club. I look forward to seeing and attending their events.

Thanks in advance for any further info you can provide.

Mario

Manbik

06-13-2003, 01:32 PM

There is no traction compound for the tires, most tracks use traction compound of some sorts (VHT, Sugar Water, Rootbeer)but it goes directly on the surface of the track, not on the tires.

Spares kind of depend on the car that you end up with. Somethings are more prone to breakage on one car than others. Usually the outlying stuff is needed first... Suspension arms, uprights, etc.

I'm not sure about the radio though since I don't use that brand.

As far as pitting, usually you can find someone at the track to help you out, especially if you are new... they will be more than willing to help you out.

You don't want to know what my annual expenses are. :D I'm one of those types that has to have everything under the sun. I also hate going home from the track because of something that I broke and I didn't have a spare for... so I stock quite a bit of spares. I have a fully assembled second car that is ready to go and probably enough spares to build a third car with still having parts left over. If I broke a part, I'll probably break it again so I'll buy two or three to replace it.

-Jason
MRX3.com

muddywaters

06-16-2003, 09:18 PM

Any and all Responses to this post are greatly Appreciated.

Let me start off by saying I've been racing Off-road for almost 4 years now. We only run JP motors in our Buggies.
My son would like for us to build the Fastsest Parking Lot Basher possible.
I purchased an Impact M2 and loads of spares for it. I am planning on installing a JP Roo in whatever Car we go with. I have been doing as much research as possible on which car would make the better choice for us. This research has brought me to the MRX3. Can anyone help me with the decision between using the Impact for this application or the MRX3?

Thanks,
muddywaters

Manbik

06-16-2003, 09:51 PM

The MRX-3 is not a "Parking Lot Basher". It is purpose built to be ran on a prepared surface. Stick with your Impact.

muddywaters

06-16-2003, 11:03 PM

I was affraid I may offend someone with this question. I was very reluctant to post it. I figured before I got to far into the Impact. I should find out if it were going to make me the faster Car.
I am very aware of the nostalgia one may have for their chosen item or piece of equipment they drive, race or just like for one reason or another. I built and race my 17' outboard powered boat at speeds over 100mph. There's newer and faster models but, you'll never get me out of the older underdog......... Also I just completed a 30k dollar Custom Chopper. People are amazed at some of the older nostalgic items I chose over newer hipper up-to-date stuff.
So, prior to asking this question I had a feeling I may ruffle some feathers. But, honestly. This is an innocent attempt to avoiding having to build 2 sperate 1000 dollar'd plus cars to find out which one will make us a faster Basher. I know that word sounds very harsh for these Highly Technical Pieces of Machinery. But, I do not know any other term to use.
I was hoping someone could enlighten me on, if the Serpent is lighter than the MRX3. Thus making it a better choice. Than, dissing me for asking such a simple question.

Thanks,
muddywaters

PCC

06-16-2003, 11:26 PM

Funny you would ask that question. When it comes to bashing, it's all about HP. The engine you mentioned will provide you plenty of HP. The question is whether or not the chassis can handle it. The Impact will take a lesser engine with no problems but a real powerhouse will destroy the belts and stuff. The MRX3 can handle the power better and be more stable at the same time. You will need to raise the ride height for running on parking lots but it is still an amazing car to run.

My brother has a MRX3 that has never seen a prepped track. He's selling it to me and I plan on racing it on a track but there's no denying that it makes one wicked parking lot car.

A word about dropping a .21 into an Impact. I've seen it done and it is fast. Using comparable engines, the MRX3 does not lose any acceleration to the lighter Impact but the MRX3 handles better, IMHO. There are issues with getting a .21 engine to fit without hitting the radio tray and stuff.

muddywaters

06-16-2003, 11:37 PM

Great Reply. That' what I'm hoping to get............

muddywaters

Manbik

06-17-2003, 05:36 AM

I never dissed you, didn't say anything negative nor are my feathers ruffled. I just beleive that with the foam tires, you will have issues with the car on a surface that's not meant for it.

muddywaters

06-17-2003, 06:26 AM

I respect and apprecite ur advice and concern. But, there's a few New Strip Malls that were built in my srea and are surfaced with New Blactop. Before we run them we prep the area with Blowers and Brooms. It's kind of a Ritual. Also, pretty fun.
Shoots, I don't think they even have a track nowhere around here. And if they do. It's probably 1 - 2 hrs away.
Thanks for the replies. After we get to run around theses Parking Lots. Who knows if me and son take to on-road as we did off-road. We may get seious and Seek some Tracks. But, will probably run Mugens if we do that.

Thanks,
muddywaters

wjj

06-17-2003, 10:46 AM

Most clubs race 1/8 on road cars in parking lots on the week end in the U.S. There just isn't enough permanent (or minature) race tracks around. There is a rc club called SARCAR up here in renton wa. that races in parking lots and don't seem to have any problems.

Manbik

06-17-2003, 11:06 AM

I guess there is a misunderstanding of the term then. To me bashing is basically running the car in front of your house or a parking lot somewhere with no prep work (no blowing or sweeping the surface).

I have raced my car on parking lot surfaces that have been sweeped, etc and the car worked well there.

muddywaters

06-18-2003, 07:24 AM

I have finally saved enough money for my engine.
I would like to know if anyone has heard of or have any experience with the .21 Nova Rossi Kangaroo Modified by Mario Rossi?

Could this engine compare to the JP Black Kangaroo? Or, does it produce more power?
Remember, initially I will not be competing with this car. YET.
But, are hoping to get Bragging Rights in the Local Parking Lots. Especially for Drag Racing.

Thanks,
muddywaters

Corse-R

06-18-2003, 07:30 AM

Originally posted by muddywaters
I have finally saved enough money for my engine.
I would like to know if anyone has heard of or have any experience with the .21 Nova Rossi Kangaroo Modified by Mario Rossi?

Could this engine compare to the JP Black Kangaroo? Or, does it produce more power?
Remember, initially I will not be competing with this car. YET.
But, are hoping to get Bragging Rights in the Local Parking Lots. Especially for Drag Racing.

Uhm..... have heard about those R1 WC 'MarioRossi'... but never seen one.

Probably is slightly more powerful than a mere R1.... (Kangaroo ones were an edition for the Worlds at Sydney). If is your first engine, think on reliability, go for an R1 straight, probably for the Mario Rossi sticker, price tag would be about 30 or 40% higher than a stock one.

muddywaters

06-18-2003, 07:36 AM

I presently own 1 JP Black Mod'd Nova Rossi. But this is my second. Now, we're going to the streets. And I'm pretty sure either of the previosly stated engines will help me achieve my goal. But, like I said I've owned 2 JP Black's and are wondering if I should try the Mario Mod'd Kangaroo instead of another JP.

I know, "Don't fix what ain't broken.".........lol

But, since I'm prepared to dump a wad here. I'd like to do a lil reasearch first.

muddywaters

mugenracer123

06-26-2003, 08:28 PM

i have a mrx3 and i love it but i am buying a new engine for it
i have not herd any elexent things abought the sirio and was wondering what you guys thought. i really dont know what i should get?RB, NOVAROSSI, JP,SIRIO help

offroadcrazy01

08-16-2003, 04:25 AM

Has any boby seen a vz-r in a mugen how was it ,was it slow is it worth getting or just save my money and get a Rb C5

PCC

08-16-2003, 11:22 AM

I've heard of someone leaning a VZ-R to the point where the engine blew trying to keep up with my brother's C4 Circuit. My brother was running his C4 at about 230F. Both cars were MRX3's.

offroadcrazy01

08-16-2003, 08:49 PM

Do rb still sell c4's the only engine I seen that rb is selling is a c5 and a s7 where can you still buy a c4 and how much does it cost. as for the os that can happen with any engine in the wrong tuners hands

show2ime

08-19-2003, 01:22 AM

for the money, get the sirio. it's hard to beat that engine. money no object, get a collari c5. it is the fastest motor out. period. faster than the rody team c5's and the jp kangaroo. i have one and have consistently whipped them both with the collari. on the rb forum, rody himself said it has more power than his modded rb's, but his get better gas mileage.

offroadcrazy01

09-04-2003, 10:57 PM

I was wondering what do you do after these 600.00 $ engines like jp race and the 400.00$ nova mega see about 4 to 5 gallons of nitro.Do you just throw them away or do you just keep on rebuilding them .Just want do know what I got my self into

navajo

09-22-2003, 08:58 PM

Hey does anyone have any info on gear ratio? I want to gear up for torque and top end. Any ideas. Also. will someone school me on how you pick gear combination.

BTW. Looking for a collari .21. Who sells them. How is the parts supply?

show2ime

09-24-2003, 10:20 PM

powerline racing sells the collari c5. Thats where I got mine from. Ask for Ritchie, he's cool. As far as gearing, I use 47/50 spurs and 17-21 pinions. It is a rocket with those gears.

offroadcrazy01

10-06-2003, 09:00 PM

check out xtreme rc cars last's mag they explained gearing.There is a t4 on the front page it says judgment day

waileun

12-23-2003, 01:10 PM

HI,

has anyone tried ceramic ball bearings on their MRX3? is it any good? or does it perform much like a steel bearing?

serpent69

12-31-2003, 02:48 PM

my friends got a vz-r in his mrx3 with the os tuned pipe, i've never seen it run but its an expensive set-up, i'm just starting out with a picco xp-21 pro but i'm looking to get like a c-5 or a rex rw-21

offroadcrazy01

01-18-2004, 07:40 PM

How do you think a ws7 II would work in a mrx-3

VETEQX2

02-07-2004, 02:30 PM

It's official.New MRX4 due at the end of April.

tekrsq

02-07-2004, 07:44 PM

Originally posted by VETEQX2
It's official.New MRX4 due at the end of April.

Where'd you hear that?

VETEQX2

02-07-2004, 07:51 PM

Originally posted by tekrsq
Where'd you hear that?

It is on this website: http://www.radiocontrol.gr/ Click enter on the homepage and then click the Nurnberg 2004 Hobby show link.

Pacoson

02-14-2004, 07:22 PM

Hey to you all!

Sorry for the probably too many times asked question of which is better. But.....

I own a
Hyper 7 pro with Hyper 8port race
Trinity Reflex NT wit Mugen MT12
and fly too many aircraft
(my credentials)

My question is for 1/8th scale onroad, What is a good package?
Kit building prefered but what thoughts do you have.

I have the electronics so I guess the chassie and motor with gears and treads.

Thanx
Jon

tekrsq

02-14-2004, 07:56 PM

Try to get the "works" kit. It comes with many Mugen hopups included in the kit. The "Osaka" edition is basically the "works" kit, but with a numbered and autographed chassis by Kenji Osaka. A nice piece, but not worth the extra price (to me anyway). Then you end up buying a stock chasis to keep from tearing up the Osaka chassis.

As for electronics, engines, tires, etc, that's personal preference. Personally, I'd stick with Novarossi or RB engines. My personal preference on tires are Super G's or Mugen Fast tires. There are other brands out there just as good if not better, but price reflects it. Check with the local scene and see what they run.

Pacoson

02-14-2004, 08:30 PM

Well believe it or not the purchace will be for just parking lot use.

I don't race at least not yet, With any of my stuff

The works? what is this, if you could tell more please
Link to a store?

thanx

tekrsq

02-15-2004, 08:11 AM

There are 3 versions of the MRX-3 on the market-- standard, works, & Osaka.

Standard- self explanatory, no frills or hop-ups.. Approx $500

Works- standard kit with all the up-grades that Mugen Seiki has to offer. It has all the up-graded parts like: Ti. Pivot Balls, Ti. Rear Sway Bar Rod, Ti. Steering Rod, Ti. Drive Shafts, Light Weight Centrifugal Shoes, Grey Clutch Shoes, Super Hard Clutch Springs, Universal Dogbones (CVD), the new Brake Disc, Teflon Brake Pads, and I think 1 or 2 more things I don't remember. Approx $600

Osaka- works kit with the limited edition, engraved Osaka chassis. Approx $700

Check www.ashfordhobby.com , www.microrcshop.com , www.acehardwarehobbies.com . You'll probably get the better deals with them.

Also check Ebay. With the MRX-4 soon to be released, alot of people will be unloading their MRx-3s at reasonable prices.

Pacoson

02-15-2004, 08:49 AM

MRX-4. interchangeable parts?

worth waiting for?

600$ for the works and another 4 for motor and pipe I have the electrics and say another 1 for misc sundries. tires parts......

about 11hundred gets you started in a race class 1/8th scale.

tekrsq

02-15-2004, 11:43 AM

MRX-4. interchangeable parts?

I haven't seen the car yet, but I've been told "most of the car is redesigned" from reliable sources. So the best I can say is maybe some of the parts will be interchangeable. I do not know for sure.

worth waiting for?

For local racing, I'd say no (unless you live in Cali where all the big name guys race). Just for the simple reason of price. Once the new car hits the market, you'll be able to pick up a used MRX-3 from racers at reasonable prices. Now if you plan to race at some of the bigger events across the country, then definetly wait for the new car. I can't see it being worse then the MRX-3.

600$ for the works and another 4 for motor and pipe I have the electrics and say another 1 for misc sundries. tires parts......

about 11hundred gets you started in a race class 1/8th scale.

That's about right. Initial cost is high, but in the long run it's not bad. Tires will be your biggest expense. My MRX-3 actually cost me less money to race last year than my MTX-3.

Like I said, you should be able to find some very good deals if you look hard enough.

offroadcrazy01

02-22-2004, 11:00 AM

I don't think that is true why would they change they have done very well racing last year if so it will just be upgrades not a new car from the grond up they will not make the same mistake as serpent

VETEQX2

02-22-2004, 11:46 AM

Originally posted by offroadcrazy01
I don't think that is true why would they change they have done very well racing last year if so it will just be upgrades not a new car from the grond up they will not make the same mistake as serpent

The MRX2 won the Worlds and numerous other top races.The MRX3 was produced and it was a completely new car.It won the Worlds.And you don't think Mugen will make a completely new car again?:rolleyes: But anyway,Mugen has already said it is completely new.So,theres no guess work needed.

offroadcrazy01

02-22-2004, 03:23 PM

where did you guys get this infomation from

tekrsq

02-22-2004, 05:47 PM

Originally posted by offroadcrazy01
where did you guys get this infomation from

Everyone has sources. If we told who they were, then people would be bugging them and we wouldn't get any more info.

One of the Mugen guys stated on another forum "the car is completely new". Other than that, I know a few people here and there that tell me things. The new car will be SWEEEEEET.

mistercrash

03-01-2004, 08:22 PM

A new 1/8th from Mugen must be coming since you can pre-order one at this shop.

http://www.modelsport.nl/webshop/shopping/

waileun

03-05-2004, 09:32 PM

Originally posted by mugenracer123
i have a mrx3 and i love it but i am buying a new engine for it
i have not herd any elexent things abought the sirio and was wondering what you guys thought. i really dont know what i should get?RB, NOVAROSSI, JP,SIRIO help

I know somebody who is a very experience driver in 1/8. He has been using his JP for 2 years and he only took it out of the car because of the age of the engine. Now he bought a sirio. He can make the sirio scream as loud as the JP. LOOKS powerful too. But after a few run, he decided, to change the parts of the JP engine and use it again. This weekend is the race, he would rather use the old JP engine than use the new sirio engine. There goes to show how much confident the siro can give.

AS for RB, why not put it in an engine that can give you more bangs for your bucks? THe price for RB is crazy.

Novarossi makes great engine. Jp refines it.

offroadcrazy01

03-07-2004, 10:24 AM

timkoul

04-01-2004, 06:49 AM

MRX-3 won the EFRA GP in Greece. Results and photos can be found here (http://www.mug.gr/gp2004/results/results.htm)

serpent69

04-02-2004, 03:32 PM

an RB engine is IMO the best 1/8 onroad engine manufacturer, they make the best, reliable engines, a good broken in RB, is like a good bottle of aged wine. Ya can't beat a nice rb, plus they got even crazier modded engines, like the c5 rody, c5 collari, and the c5 team, if you want something even crazier, but don't belittle rb man, if you diss them, its because you've never driven one.

Gravedigger

04-21-2004, 11:00 PM

Ok Guys,sorry to post this here. I'll try to make this a hell of a deal.

I have all these MRX3 parts below NEW IN PACKETS to trade for a good condition MTX3 (rolling chasis only)......

....... or to sell everything for $250 shipped. The prices i've put beside them are estimated prices if you were to buy them from a hobbyshop. Easily worth above $300.

Parts
Front Half Shaft (Dog Bones) $11.99
Rear Half Shaft (Dog Bones) $10.99
Damper Plastic Parts x 2 $21.98
Diaphragm x 2 $4.99
O-rings Set $3.99
Upper Arm Set $14.99
Spring for 2 speed $6.99
Front Wheel changing lever $7.99
Inner Drive Joint $9.99
Front Upright $9.99
King Pin $8.99
Front Lower Arm $8.99
Side belt $10.99
Rear Upright ball $3.99
Rear Body Mount $8.99
Rear Body Mount parts $8.99
Front Lower Suspension Shaft x 2 $15.98
Rear Lower Suspension Shaft $6.99
Front upper Suspension shaft x 2 $9.98
Titanium Steering Rod $15.99
Solid rear Axle $14.99
Snap ring Set C-Clips x 2 $7.98
Radio plate mount $5.99
Wire for side belt tensioner $9.99
1st Gear Pinion 18T $12.99
2nd Gear Pinion 20T $13.99
2nd Spur Gear 46T $6.99
Front Damper Stay Graphite $9.99
Rear Damper Stay Graphite $7.99
Middle Shaft Bracket $7.99
Middle Shaft $12.99
Pivot Ball (Silver) $5.99
Clutch Shoe (Grey) $11.99
Inner Drive Joint $9.99
TOTAL $325.64

I will also throw in a used MRX3 chasis. (Not tweaked or bend) In good condition

PM me to deal.... I will accept paypal.

firebld

04-28-2004, 02:06 AM

Been playing 1/10 for a while. Just bought from friend MRX-3 with C4 and new NOVA Mega throw in. The car are just stock. I had fun with the car & now able to play my 1/10 with one-way more effective.

Been new .. can anyone update on pinion/spur combination & it's effect. Been playing with MTX-3 gear ratio & need advise on MRX-3. Anyone manage to convert to .8 centex ???

offroadcrazy01

04-29-2004, 07:36 PM

Gravedigger

04-29-2004, 10:44 PM

Happy your happy with your mrx3 I was looking for the same thing I'm looking for some mrx3 set up sheets from some pro drivers from one of these big races on-line can't seem to find them any where.There are not that many 1/8 onroader here might have to go to teamserpent to find some guys http://www.mytsn.com/teamdrivers/teamdrv.asp?cid=1119&cm=3&adr=0 http://store.esellerate.net/s.asp?s=STR313706835 this book also helps alots

There are plenty of setup sheets at www.mugenseiki.com and at www.mugenracing.com

Mugen racing even provides a blank sheet with all the description of what each setting does...

Check it out.

JT1967

05-02-2004, 12:19 PM

I am a newbie and few weeks ago I bought a Mugen Seiki MRX3 platinum edition with a novarossi platinum edition and futaba radio. I am new in this hobby since used to fly electric helis :). Due to health problems since had to do major operation 2 weeks ago I couldnt try the car and I did only the first run for the engine with the dealer I bought the car from. I have some questions :) where do I start and what do I need to get the best out of it ?

thanks :)

serpent69

05-02-2004, 05:42 PM

ummm, to probably get the best out of your car? You'd probably need experience, 1/8 onroad's are really meant for pro's, not beginners. You're going to have to learn a lot about rc's to master 1/8. They're super fast and can put a huge hole in your wallet if u treat'em wrong, or run'em wrong. Plus you'll have to learn how to tune a nitro engine as well, and .21 onroad race engines are very finicky, not the easiest to learn on. If you got a good deal on this package, congrats, but it probably wasn't the smartest, because honestly, i would've started on something a lil' easier and then moved up, but good luck with it, its a fun car once u know how to drive it.

KingWillie

07-01-2004, 11:51 AM

JTi967, as you've heard 1/8 scale cars are probably not the easiest place to start, but it sounds like you have some experieince with RC, I think you mentioned heli's. The radio issues won't be new to you, but Nitro is the king.
As far as chassis set-up goes Mugen has plenty of info on their site, get some of the set up sheets and you can duplicate the setups. However you will need some new tools. Set up boards, ride height gauge, droop tools,etc.. Hopefully you have a good micrometer. Don't skimp on your tools, your 1/8 scale will make you pay.
There is a very good chassis tuning book available on the XXX web site, it will explain many of the theories which you can apply to the car. As far as the engine goes, go to the engine forums and ask your questions there. I have found them to be very helpful. You may ask about set ups in this web site when your ready, you may even get some answers. People are generally helpful.
One last thought, before you go racing, practice alot. Other drivers will want to scrape the skin off your body when you take out one their $1000+ cars, really practice alot first. Good luck and enjoy.
KW ;)

KingWillie

07-01-2004, 12:05 PM

I was going to buy sirio too but I heard to many bad things about them.like flame outs,I think I will get a RB or a os vz-r I know about mp's vz-r but he had done alot to the motor before he ran it he took it apart and I think he let some guy do some mods on it

My son runs the vz-r in his 1/8th, very reliable, very good temps, easy to tune, but no where near the top end of the Sirio. In ROAR legal terms the Sirio seems to have very good top end. I haven't seen much trouble with the Sirio's that isn't occuring with other engines. If tuned correctly you shouldn't experience any more trouble with it than any other brand and I believe Sirio's did very well in the ROAR Worlds last year with their new head design. I'm not sure if that engine is for sale to public yet.