*** Mugen MRX3 Forum V1.0 ***

[RBMRX3]

All right all you MRX3 owners, lets start a nice and helpful forum here for any that has the MRX3 or is looking at getting a New 2001 World Champion Car.



Post Away

[timkoul]

I raced this MRX-2 for this season but I' m switching to the 3 for the next one. Do you own the car already? Did you also had the 2? How does it feel compared to other cars?

http://www.radiocontrol.gr/images/18trocta8.jpg

radiocontrol site (http://www.radiocontrol.gr)

[timkoul]

Isn't there anybody with an MRX car around? I haven't seen any replies yet. :confused:

[raffaelli]

there are other foirums around the net that have 450 something replies. so there are plenty of 3's around.

I drove the 2 all summer, then got the 3 at the end of the season. the 3 carries much more speed into and out of the corners. it handles better for me. the 2 was awesome, the 3 is better.

[timkoul]

I had a problem trying to make the car turn more when entering a corner. It pushed a lot so I ended up using blue springs with 400 oil in front and pink springs with 500 oil in the back. With 35 tyres all around it still pushed. A friend used 35 in front and 37 back with white springs in front and 500 oil all around and in fact he won that race. In case I use the MRX-2 for the 2002 season I will try it.
Any other had that kind of problems?
I also keep screwing the thrust bearing on the centax. What about that?

[weasel]

I have one!! Ilove this car! I must admit that i bought it for play though. I have a question though, when using the smaller front side pulley, should the side belt be loose? I mean very loose?
One more thing, this car really works good.

[timkoul]

No it should be like when you use the larger. Adjust it with the tensioner.

[weasel]

I can adjust the tensioner to the point that the belt touches its self in the middle. And still be loose.

[weasel]

I have the same problem with my thrust bearing. I wish that the mugen clutch was like the serpent one, with the cap on the end to keep it clean and lubed. Too bad that they are too different to swap!

[weasel]

Do you know of anyone that carries hop-up parts? Not that the MRX-3 needs it, I just like shiny aluminum parts. I've seen the
kawahara site but cant find a place to get them from.
http://digilander.iol.it/kawahara/main2.htm

[timkoul]

Well the Mugen dealer in Greece has them but you only need the optional rear sway bar. Kawahara has a nice disk brake which works very good. Sorry but I live in Greece and can't help on availability matters.
About the thrust somebody suggested I use a bronze shim from a normal plug. I haven't tried it yet.
The belt must be relatively loose or you ll screw it with this kind of HP. Don't overdo it. Just make sure it doesn't skip.
Anyway the car handles better with the larger pulley so why bother?

[timkoul]

Anyway I sold the 2 so I'm waiting for my 3, in about 2-3 weeks from now I'll have it. I hope it will turn better. At least everybody says it does.

[weasel]

About the smaller puley, I was just wondering.....:)
Is the middle bearing block worth the cash?
Thanks for the input!

[timkoul]

You mean the aluminum block by kawahara in front. The local dealer uses it in his car. It just looks good but no other reason to buy it. I' d go for the kawahara brake and the mugen optional blade type rear sway bar.

[timkoul]

What engine do you use anyway? I still have the old JP Speed from the 2 but hopefully I' ll get the JP Race 2001 edition with the 3. Both are great engines but my Speed is old and very used up. I will use it for practice or in low traction days.

[raffaelli]

tim: the 2 had no problems turning, and yes, the 3 is 10 times better. i am using the jp red because you cant have enough horsepower. i would get the rear sway bar instead of the block as suggested. changing the pulley will change the overdrive.

[timkoul]

In our track it pushed a lot. As I mentioned in my e-mails to you the solution seemed to be to use softer tyres in front. Maybe it was our track's problematic design and surface but trully, never did the MRX-2 manage to turn as the Veteqs. The 3 is allready here, it raced once but it didn't do well due to lack of testing. Next year we' ll have a stronger team, new cars and hope to do better

[weasel]

Im using a rb c4 and have 2 new picco g1 pro's.

[raffaelli]

oh right, i remember your emails. never got it resolved? it seemed like you did everything to get it to turn. I really never had any problems with the car even on the tightest of turns.

good luck with the 3, it is a winner right out of the box!

[timkoul]

Thanks man. The car seems great, the local dealer has allready started testing and we will have it sorted until March when the 1st race is scheduled. Problem is my car is somewhere in Japan still. I hope it' ll be here soon. :)

[timkoul]

What do you think of the JP Race? :confused:

[timkoul]

Several guys used Piccos G1 but they abandoned them after a while. Maybe it has too much low end for a slippery track like ours. Any RB was better but no as fast as our JPs

[raffaelli]

Well, the JP looks fast sitting on my work table :D It is 25 degress here so I have not had a chance to run it in. I will get to it in April.

[timkoul]

Hey Chris how did you finally solve the engine bogging problem ?
I see many people faced it and I am concerned. Is there something I should do as a precaution during the initial building of the car ? Or just leave it according to the manual and see what happens ?

[raffaelli]

tim , i ended the season with that problem. but the tracks we ran the end of our series here in the northeast were small, so the bog was not as noticable because I richened it. But it never went away. I have heard that several things can be done. I am going to put a one way valve in the pressure line. The winter race is next month, maybe mugen will have a fix by then.

when is your car going to show up?

[timkoul]

My car will probably be here by the end of the week. Due to unexpected problems though I will delay the purchace till the end of the month. Anyway last weekend we tested the dealers car and it seemed to have plenty of steering. I think I will love my MRX-3 !!!!:) :) :)

[timkoul]

About the rear blade type sway bar. What do you think ? Should I use it right away? What angle is the same as the stock ?

[timkoul]

Just got my MRX-3 !!!!:)
And the rear optional sway bar as well.

[raffaelli]

Great Tim!!

Some things I did before I built it...

take apart all the bearing to get that thick grease out, put a drop of oil in them, put them back together.

polish all the shafts, pins, balls etc.


car is smooth...

[jrkara]

Hey guys,
I do carry the Kawahara hop ups for the MRX-3 and MTX-2. New shipment arriving in about 10 days, pulleys, belt tensioner, mid bearing block, lightweight 1st gear housing and brake discs. Just e-mail me at jrkara99@msn.com and I'll send you a list with pricing.

The last shipment sold very fast so if you're interested please let me know early.

Thanks
Jim

[timkoul]

Thanks chris
What do you use for polishing?
I don't think I will open the bearings yet. Maybe I wil let them break in with the grease.
About boiling the plastic parts... Does it help? It sounds dangerous.
Do you use a LOLA type body? It is not EFRA legal you know and we have to use Group C bodies. Wondering about the setup differences if any are needed...

[raffaelli]

Tim,

I have not boiled any parts. I dont think it is needed.

I put the the part I am going to polish in a drill, put some polishing compound on it like crome polish for real cars, hold a piece of emery cloth or scotch brite to it, spin the drill till my arms get tired...clean it up...nice and smooth.

The lola body hold the car to the track better than the group c body. While I have not changed my set up from body to body, I imagine that you can use a stiffer setup with the lola.

I suggest that you clean out those bearings. The grease will take a gallon or two to break down, somewhat.

Take some pictures along the way!
Chris

[raffaelli]

.

[timkoul]

The car is ready !!! I am breaking in my new JP Race. Looks and sounds great. Look for pics of the car below. They will be added soon.

http://www.rchobbyathens.com

[weasel]

Have you guys tried the updated fuel tank yet? Did it fix the bogging issue? I ordered mine, it should be here friday! Thanka all!:)

[EuroKRN]

Hey all.. I've had my MRX3 for the past couple months but still haven't run it yet since I haven't bought an engine for it.. went to the LHS yesterday and was told most people in the class are running JPs at around $550+..!!! that pretty much woke me up and made me realize how much it's going to cost to start/upkeep my car and so it's on the selling block now.. I posted a for sale ad on this board so if any of you are interested in a brand new never run but built MRX3, go check it out...

BTW, out of curiousity, which engines are you guys running on your MRX3s and how much did you pay for them? Thanks!

[weasel]

I running a RB c4 that I had in my vector. If you dont race, I wouldnt get the JP. Check out E-Bay! I picked up a Picco G-1 pro
for $133! Brand spankin new!!!!!! Its a $350 engine.

[ragamuffin]

I'm running a Collari-Picco XS-2100 in my MRX-3 and it just as fast as the mid-line RB C4's out there. ;) I haven't had any issues with the tank (yet), but one thing I DO hate is that front body mount. It must be made of the same material as the NTC3's "extended" front bumper (i.e., GLASS ). I must be on my 4th one after just getting tapped on the front end by other cars. :mad:

There has GOT to be a better way to do this...the Serpent guys get aluminum ones...:mad:

[weasel]

Yes they are brittle! I hit a curb,and had to replace the entire right front corner. The tie rod, shock shaft and the dog bone broke!!(and alot of plastic) I wasnt going but 25 or so, its weird that all that steel broke. And it does suck that you have to buy BOTH sides to get one side. O well.. spare parts!

[raffaelli]

ragamuffin : Be thankful that it does break...if you had the aluminum one you would be replacing the bulkhead and maybe the top plate everytime.

euro : Having a crazy motor will not just make you fast. Practice with the car. LEarn it and learn the tweaks and setups. That stuff is far mor valauable than the latest go fast engine. On most tracks, you dont need 3.5 HP. I started .8th with the MRX-2 and a NR R1 ( I think I paid 400). The C4 is also good. I also have the JP Pro99 (425) and the JP R1 (600). I have not use the JP R1 yet, wiating for the nationals.

[weasel]

Well, I got the updated fuel tank installed and it did make a big difference!!

[raffaelli]

no more low end bog?

[Bigman]

Nope, it got alot better! Its worth the $20

Weasel

[biTTo tiGGies]

Hi people I just found this thread it is nice to see others running this car. I just bought mine 2 weeks ago and break-in the engine and raced it last weekend. Well the race was cancelled right before qualifier started because of rain. But I love mine so much that I'm going to sell "almost" all my other RCs.

My MRX3 is equipped with an RB C4, RB 9886 one piece pipe and rear blade type sway bar. But I noticed I got the old fuel tank and wondering where I can find the new tank?? My low end seems to bog a lot and maybe the new tank solve my problem. I went to Ace Hardware Hobbies last week and they only have the old fuel tank. There are no other shops around here that carries much MRX3 parts.

[Tee]

Originally posted by biTTo tiGGies
Hi people I just found this thread it <..snipped..>that carries much MRX3 parts.

What up you freak?! You think I should race mah rent-a-wreck? You're going to sell all your cars? Yah, I'm that Tee. lates.

[Bigman]

I got mine from nitro house.

[raffaelli]

www.ashfordhobby.com they have a bunch

get the tank. it will help but make sure your engine and clutch are right otherwise the new tank will not thelp.

[Poindexter]

Guys, I have a new (well, new to me anyway!) Mugen MRX-3. It's got a Collari XS2100 hand-modified engine, Hitec Digital Servos, and a Nova Mega one-piece pipe. <p>
Here's a silly newbie question: What's the secret to learning to drive one of these things fast? When approaching a fast corner, do you ease off the throttle and coast through? Help! :p

[Bigman]

Lots and lots of practice! You will find that you will need to power through the corners.If you are new to 1/8th, join your local race club, and ask lots of questions! People are always willing to help a newbie! First and foremost, gat the car setup corectly, correct diameter tires, clutch, and all the basic stuff, like toe, camger,caster,etc. Thats what i did. Dont worry about giong fast yet, worry about being cansistant, and getting around the track in one peice. When you are learning, you will break stuff!
Good luck!!!!

Weasel

[Bigman]

raffaelli, how are you liking that C-5? Is it the standard, Rody, or Collari?

[raffaelli]

I have not used it yet. I still need to break it in. Looks great in the box with a clutch on it though!! It is the stock C5, nothing modified. I was looking for a nice calm engine. I did rebuild the R1 for this past weekend, worked on some gearing and the car was a rocket. I think I went a little too tall on the cars because my car lacked a little comming out of the turns.

I look forward to running the car with the C5 this weekend.

[Bigman]

I had a race today, and finished my first main!! Wooo Hooo!!
Took 4th in the A. Im still learning how to drive thou. I am so hooked on racing!! We had a few rain delays, damn Oregon rain!
Water and VHT dont mix!

[raffaelli]

thats great! what was your setup?

[Bigman]

Im runnung an MRX-3 with a standard RB C-4, M-8 trans. with
airtronics 94357 for steering, 94458 for throttle. Im using the basic stock setup and only changed to serpent yellow springs in the rear and serpent blue in the front. I also have the adjustable rear sway bar, I run the front flat and the rear at 45 deg. 35 shore Micro Systems tires all around. Hows about you?

[raffaelli]

ko servos, R1, 9886 one piece, frewer body

Front:
35 Fast Tire 69mm
no bump stop
mugen white
1.2 piston
600 oil
45 stabilizer
6mm height
middle hole
2 droop
2mm caster
+1 toe
-2 camber
253mm

Rear:
30 Fast Tire 76mm
no bump stop
mugen red
1.3 piston
600 oil
45 stabilizer
7mm height
bottom hole
8 droop
-2 toe
-2.5 camber
264mm

8mm wing
body foward
gold sring about 1 1/2 threads down
stock shoe
stock weights
.2mm play on bell
17/20
45/49
30% odonell


the serpent yellow in your setup is similar to the mugen purple which is very soft, used in the touring car sometimes. the serpent blue is similar to the mugen grey which is a soft spring sometimes used in the rear of the 1.8. You might want to stiffen up the car a bit.

[Bigman]

I was thinking about using a stiffer setup. The reason that I use Serpent springs is that they are cheaper than Mugen. Is the gold clutch spring the hard or super hard? Thanks for your advise!!
Like I said, I'm new and could use all the input I can get!
My car dosent seem to have enough steering what do you think I should change?
Thanks!! :)

[raffaelli]

the super hard is silver.

if you stiffen up the car, you will get more steering. try white in the front and red in the rear, you will get more steering when you make the rear stiffer.

[Bigman]

Cool! I will try that. My next race isnt for another 3 weeks:mad:
Thanks for the input !!!!!!!

[Poindexter]

Big Man, thanks for the advice. I suppose you're right--there is no substituion for "track time." I spent about a half hour practicing this weekend at our local track. It is a huge track, tailored for 1/5 scale cars, and it took a bit of "courage building" before I was able to take the car out on the back straight. The car was set-up by the person I bought it from, so I'll need to check the settings once I get a bit smoother out there.

Incidentally, I didn't find myself using any brakes whatsoever (I just let off the throttle before initiating a turn). Is this common? Or will I need to use the brake when I get faster? I know the car has a hefty brake for a good reason, but if I even thought of using the brake, the thing would swap ends. Oh, and yes, i had to buy a new front body-post mount--these things are brittle!! :)

[Bigman]

The brake thing depends on the track, you probably wont use a lot of brake on a big track. There is an updated body mount, made of a different plastic. Go here, and youll be able to tell the difference, theres a lot of good info, and join the mailing list!!!
www.jasonjenkins.com . You might have to dial out some brakes on your transmitter, your setup will affect how straight it brakes. Swapping ends is normal with 1/8 scale,as only the rear end has brakes. Good luck with it!!! And most of all have fun!!!:) :)

[Bigman]

none

[Jack Moss]

For all your MRX-3/MTX-2 needs check out www.kustomrc.com the site does not show anything for mugen but contact information is on the site and i will have the mugen info up soon

[Bigman]

http://www.gasrccar.com has the best prices. And 3 day shipping.

[Jack Moss]

I dont think so

[raffaelli]

Well, I had a terrbiel day at the track. I woke up with a headache, took some allergy pills, and off I went. Well, I have never broken so many things. I lost a bunch of dogbones, a pipe, some plastic in the front. I ran the C5 for a while.

Listen to this one...the engine just did not seem to have any punch. I asked around and everyone with an RB did not have that complaint. So for the main, I took it out and put in my realiable R1. Again...no punch. I ended up not finishing my main...another dog bone. As I was packing up my car, I just happen to see the label on my gallon of fuel...it was 20%. DAMN. No wonder I had no punch. I always use 30%. Perfect top to a crapy day. I ran 3:30 in the first heat, 0:30 in the second and about 7:00 of 20 in the main.

There is always next week.

[Bigman]

Dude thats too bad. Them friggen dog bones I hate em! cant wait till the universals come out. Thats a good attitude(theres always next week!)My next race isnt till the 22nd. Good luck next time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!
have you been breaking bod bones too? It seems like Mugen didnt heat treat them right.

[raffaelli]

Actullay no, I did not break any. They just kept popping out. I have to car set too wide. But yes, I hear that it is a problem with them breaking. Universals would be cool.

[Bigman]

Ive broken both front and rear bones, a shock shaft, and tie-rods
The tie-rod and shock shafts brakes at the threads. I'm going to get the titanium rods and see how they work out. Titanium bones would be cool! But very spendy!!

[Tee]

Mugen hardens their steel so hard, it just snaps. Very common problem.

[Bigman]

Hey Raff, I went to Serpent yellow springs all around, rear sway bar to 40% front almost flat, man my car handles killer (for me)
our track is a little slick. Im now leaving for the second day of a 2 day race, my mains are today! A main, 45 B, 30, C,20

[timkoul]

Hi there I' m back!!
I raced the MRX-3 for 3 races and the results where ....hm...
lets say I was just totally unlucky.

At the first race I flipped the car at the end of the straight and you know what happens when another guy hits you with top speed. Uprights, suspension arms, a shock shaft, a dogbone etc...

The second race had a period of light drizzle which confused qualifying. On top of that during the A-main my rear sway bar got loose and I had tremendous amounts of understeer.

Before the third race during open practice a guy flipped his car in front of me. I hit him at full speed and the rear end of his Veteq hit the head of my JP Race. I kissed the engine goodbye with broken case and missed the race.

My engine was sent to France and was totally rebuilt and back in time for the fourth race. I had a good setup, but unfortunately a guy hit me, sent my car to the boards and broke a rear susp. arm and cut a large piece of a rear tyre. It took me 8 min to replace it and I only managed a 6th place also because I had no other tyres to use.

Nevertheless the car is fast, needs a lot of work practice etc to set it up right and hopefully someday my bad luck will stop.

[Bigman]

Hey Tim, I know just how you feel! Thats been my luck so far this season, (4 races) however this is my first season racing anything!
I have never raced anything ever before I just jumped into 1/8 4wd. I will get better for the both of us, I hope!!! Good luck to you!!!

[jasoncsc]

I just bought a MRX3 chassis today. The one mind boggling issue is the choice of engines. I would get a OS for practice, but would get a "no holes barred" engine too. All my local LHS sold out the JP R1WC, does anyone knows where in the net I could get one? Also, any other suggestion on a modified engine of other brand?

[Bigman]

I run an RB C-4 and love it!! 90 percent of my club runs them. If you want a balls out engine. get the Rody mod. version of the C-5. It will keep up with a JP Race for less cash.Theres Picco G1 Pro, but they can be very hard to tune, I have 2 of them and 2 C-4's the Picco motors are new and stay at home on race day. Its all in the carb, if you change carbs the picco is a very good motor. The Cmb LSI is pretty good also, comes with pipe and header for under 3 bills.

[Bigman]

Be sure to check out www.mrx3.com
for good tips and info!

[Jack Moss]

RB is definetly the way to go I run the C-4 myself and love it but save the money and get the stock C-5 if you want the latest from RB the last one I sold I broke it in for the customer and it was keeping up with the JP's just fine at our last series race.

www.kustomrc.com

[Manbik]

I run the Picco G1 pro engine and love it and find it easy to tune. they did come out with a new carb a few months ago that may have solve the problems that you are seeing.

I also run the C4 and love it but it needs a rebuild right now.

Any Novarossi, JP, Collari, etc will be fantastic also.

-Jason
MRX3.com

[tekrsq]

I'm running a Nova SP1 modified by Speedline Racing. It's ballistic!!! It easilly runs with the JP's at our track.

[Bigman]

Thanks for the info about the Picco carbs Jason!! My G-1 Pro's are the older black on black versions.

[Bigman]

You can only go as fast as your driving skills will let you! Learn to drive good before getting monster power, otherwise it will make you slower!!

[Manbik]

My G1 has an aluminum carb restrictor in it and the engine has a silver backplate. Hope it helps... picco doesnt have the other sizes though. :(

[Bigman]

I think that I will stick with my C-4's and sell my G1's and maybe try a C-5. Thanks for the info!
Mine are the ones with black heads and black crank cases and a goldish back plate. They seen to be a bit picky. Once you get close to a good tune, it takes less than a 1/16 of a turn to go too far either way.

[NitroOwnsYou]

MMMMM JP! I love em! You guys are keeping up with the Pro 99 Onroad JP's?

[Manbik]

(shrug) Nobody runs JP at my track.

[Bigman]

Same here. RB or Picco.

[tekrsq]

Originally posted by NitroOwnsYou
MMMMM JP! I love em! You guys are keeping up with the Pro 99 Onroad JP's?

Haven't seen one of those green heads yet. Is that the $1200 JP?

[NitroOwnsYou]

Actually thats the Pro 99 buggy edition. Ill be purchasing the Onroad edition very soon for my MRX-3! I love these engines! Im trying to track down an XT12 for my Touring car also.

[timkoul]

I run the 2001 JP Race which is faster than the green-headed Pro 99.

[NitroOwnsYou]

Wheres that engine listed or bought from. I really want to check out the new blocks, but the website isnt that great.

[NitroOwnsYou]

You talking about the medial pro JP engine?

[raffaelli]

Hey guys, I have an extra Pro 99. I used it last year to win the Series East Points Championship. It is in good shape and would still be using it but I could not resisit a new one. Over the winter I put a new con rod in it. It is on its second piston and sleeve. Runs great. If you are interested in it, drop me an email chris.raffaelli@verizon.net I will open it to to take some pictures if you like.

Good racing!
Chris

[raffaelli]

Hey nitro, what setup are you using at 106? I will be up for the regionals in a few weeks?

good racing!
Chris

[timkoul]

Originally posted by NitroOwnsYou
Wheres that engine listed or bought from. I really want to check out the new blocks, but the website isnt that great.

Check the page below. The engine there is new big block version. Mine is the previous one.
http://modelling-news.com/2002/rchobbyathens/rchobbyathens_news.htm

[jasoncsc]

Thanks guys for the engine suggestions!

I just bought a NovaMega Evo 5 M. Rossi from my LHS. They said the M.Rossi modified motors are the team motors and better than JP, and in fact they charged the same price as the JP R1 WC which is out of stock....Anybody know about the M.Rossi engines? Can't find any info in the web about them though....

Also, I am looking for a Novarossi R1 WC engine, but here we are out of stock. I tried searching for a price in the internet, but can't find any....Any suggestion on where I could get one?

[NitroOwnsYou]

Actually Raff, Im waiting anxiously to get my MRX-3. It should be here soon, and have no experience with 1/8th onroad. I have wanted to visit 106 raceway and step into the 1/8th onroad action at a competitive level, but have been involved in 1/8th dirt racing. It sux around here cuz not many people run 1/8th onroads or really race anything all that much. Tracks are limited and arent the best quality ones either. Too many electric flashlights still running around here. :D I know rt 106 has a website somewhat of a forum, so you could ask there. If you dont have the web address Ill get it for ya man. Im interested in watching the races now!

[raffaelli]

Nitro...well if you come the weekend of the 17th, there will be a regioanl race there. Ask for my and someone will point me out. I will show you around to the fast guys and have them explain the car to you. I will be at the track on the 16th for practice. The racing shoudl be good there. Have you been down to the club in Enfield? Once you get the MRX-3 you will forget about that dirt car of your!:D

[NitroOwnsYou]

The Dirt car is a Hyper 7 with that sick JP that does about 60 mph :D I allready have a car that Im in love with, but I dont mind adding another! :D Maybe I can race her onroad! :p

I really would enjoy and appreciate to get together and run through the MRX3 with me. Im new to onroad, and have learned that setup is very critical(in a sence that its drivable and not horribly inconsistant), and then once the car can be driven it will be my skills that I will work on. I really would enjoy meeting up with you. Drop me an email with the specifics of when youll be up my way! Also I havent heard of the club in Enfield, so youll have to let me in on that! Ive seen you around on the forums and on Jasons mail list, so Im learning from everywhere I can! :D I hope to talk soon!

[Bigman]

TTT

[Bigman]

Well, I made my first "A" Main today! This is my first season racing anything at all. 1/8 kicks arce!!

[biTTo tiGGies]

congrats to your "A" main finish. :D This is my first season for 1/8 on-road and I am hooked on it. Have to agree 1/8 kicks arse.

[jon4rr]

i live in hartford ct and rc off road at rc madness 1/8 in enfield and want to rcae 1/8 on road can u tell me where the club in enfield is

[chinalfr]

Originally posted by jon4rr
i live in hartford ct and rc off road at rc madness 1/8 in enfield and want to rcae 1/8 on road can u tell me where the club in enfield is

http://www.ashfordhobby.com/nercar.htm

Hope this help.

[Turbo][]

Originally posted by jasoncsc
Thanks guys for the engine suggestions!

I just bought a NovaMega Evo 5 M. Rossi from my LHS. They said the M.Rossi modified motors are the team motors and better than JP, and in fact they charged the same price as the JP R1 WC which is out of stock....Anybody know about the M.Rossi engines? Can't find any info in the web about them though....

Also, I am looking for a Novarossi R1 WC engine, but here we are out of stock. I tried searching for a price in the internet, but can't find any....Any suggestion on where I could get one?

M.Rossi could mean Mario Rossi, which is the owner of Novarossi. but I haven't heard them modding motors for a long long time. There is a NovaMega EV5 MS...which is the Michael Salven mod'd motor, and it's pretty even with the JP Black Race motors.

I personally run a JP Black Race 2001 in my Veteq. Which I will be putting in to my soon to come MRX3. I also have a JP Black Race 2002 WC motor coming as well.

[Jack Moss]

You cant find any info because they do not exsist Michael Salven does all the mods on the Nova Mega motors and if they charged you the same price as a JP I would be pretty hot the JP's are way more than the MS Nova Mega retail on the MS is 425.00 I sell them for 385.00

www.kustomrc.com

[Turbo][]

I think I just lost my contact to my JP Race Black 2002 WC. I was wondering Jack....do you carry one? Or a C5 Collari mod? Or any other mod R1 WC 2002 type motor, like Jtec...etc..??

[Jack Moss]

The JP's are not available yet through me supplier but i can get the RB C5 Collari it is 520.00 or the Rody C5 is 480.00 I prefer the Rody over the Collari if you want to order one call me tomorrow after 3pm central time you can find my number at www.kustomrc.com I may be able to get A JP from another source but i dont think i can get as good of a deal
for everyone else I do carry parts for the MRX-3 it does not show on the site but you can call me for availability

www.kustomrc.com

[Turbo][]

Is there a specific reason you choose the Rody over Collari? Isn't there also a Rody Team edition as well?

[Jack Moss]

Yes there is a team version too It is the same price as the Collari but it takes about 2 months to get one in I have the team 3 port x-15 and it rocks it just took forever to get it they are both great motors but the rody is a little faster than the Collari

www.kustomrc.com

[Turbo][]

ooo...I want Rody Team .21 C5!! :) I'll give you a call at the track later today.

[Turbo][]

Jack, I forgot to ask you about the shipping charges...I hope you don't "make-up" for the price with your shipping.

I talked to Rody, and he said the collari is faster than his own mod. He honestly said his mods are not sufficated as Collari. However he said it takes time to tune it.

I think I'm going to go with the Collari. I'll give you a call next week sometime.

Will be busy building my new MRX3 next week ;)

[Jack Moss]

I do not charge anymore than what it costs to ship it and I will ship it any way you want usually it costs around 11.00 dollars to ship it UPS ground

[NitroOwnsYou]

*** we cant link websites here??

[macman]

MRX-3 racers ARE THERE ANY HERE?

Regards
MAC;)

[tekrsq]

Yep

[StevePond]

I have one as well. :D

[macman]

Are you guys racing them and what hop=ups do you have

[StevePond]

Mine's stock right now. I have a JP modified Novarossi R-1 engine Futaba radio and Futaba digital servos. The body is a Serpent Lola with the Gurney spoiler. I haven't raced this car yet, but I have raced with the Veteq and NT. I'll start next season with the MRX.

[macman]

Soory to hear you have not driven the MRX-3 as of yet

I had a Veteq from early 2001 and sold it mid season thsi year .
I love the MRX-3 it works a lot better for me than the Veteq ever did.

I have not left the track disapointed since I got the Mugen.

Good Luck MAC

:o

[Bigman]

I raced one lact season, great car! However I bought a 2002 chrome SMP Slide, even better! Never broke a rear belt, just a front belt. I do suggest that you join your local race club and race. You will learn sooo much. Like setup maintence and most importantly, driving. It is alot of fun!
Good luck with it!!!


BTW, leave it stock! It really doesnt need any aftermarket stuff,
I had all the googies, and took it all off.

[macman]

I do race a club and more.
I took 3rd at the Toledo MWS behind winner and World champion Brian Berry & Brent Gottfried.
this wqas my 3rd season Nitro but have raced carpet stadium truck and buggy 9 yrs.
great stuff.
where do you race the Slide?

Regards MAC:)

[Bigman]

I live in portland Ore. And we race in a local parking lot, and I practice here, http://www.timezoneracing.com. Im glad to hear you are doing good, this was my first season racing anything so Ididnt do well. I had alot of fun and learned a ton! Thats what its all about!!!

[macman]

Bigman , Nice track .
At Toledo we have a section of the lot fenced off. but we have boards to break our cars. I like the nice soft grass you have there.
Here is our web site.the good thing with our track is its built for 1/8 racing 230 ft. straight away
http://www.oneeighthracers.com/

see ya

MAC

[Bigman]

We only have 3 races a year at Time Zone(due to noise issues). The rest of the year, its board city!! The last race of the seasen was the enduro, a 3 hour race. We had 4 person teams, and change drivers every 15 minutes...a driver, pit guy, turn marshal, and one person resting. It was a lot of fun! Reciever pack changes,tire changes, ang in some cases engine changes. Thats one helluva club you have!! We only have about 1/2 the people you do.1/8 just isnt as big here in Portland. Here is my club.

www.rc-cars.com In the pictures page 4 you will see me wrenching on my MRX-3.


C-YA! Kenny

[Bigman]

Anyone run a Slide in your club?

[need4speed4]

I am thinking about getting a MRX3, how fast is it? Is it easy to tune?
Thanks

[need4speed4]

Can the mrx-3 beat a serpent 02, top speed?

[need4speed4]

How fast is the MRX-3????? Can it beat a serpent veteq 02 off the line???
Can it beat a veteq 02 top speed????

[Manbik]

Well first we need to know:

- What tire compound does the Veteq have?
- What tire compound does the MRX-3 have?
- What are the tire sizes of both cars?
- What are the engines in both cars?
- What are the gears being used in both cars?
- What is the track traction like?
- Who tuned the engines in both cars?
- What are the driver reflexes like?

As you can see, there are lots of variables involved. Either car is capable of beating the other as the variables change.

-Jason
MRX3.com

HINT : Racing these cars is not about which is faster of the line. Both can win races if a good driver is behind the radio. So I guess you need to ask yourself... are YOU better than the other driver?

[macman]

I race at Toledo / Detroit / Cincinnati and Ive not seen a Slide.
The question about a MRX-3 beating a Serpent top speed thats a tuffy .
there are many things that can load that question Engine/ body type/ nito % /person setting up car.
this I can say the MRX-3 comes out of corners faster than all the cars from what fellow racer tells me.
I was a serpent racer 2.5 years Veteq / Impulse .
I only race Mugen now and dont think I will ever go back to Serpent cars.
the quality and fit and finish of the Mugen MRX-3 is far superior to Serpent cars.
the MTX-3 is a Jr. MRX-3 and I may go back to racing Sedan again.

MAC
:D

[NitroOwnsYou]

Need,
My feelings on which is faster is,

Both and neither. Too many variables to determine that.

Jr

[JWF_FRANI]

i was wonder what effect would adding another spacer on
the rear block wich attaches to the rear upper arm do
on the mugen mrx3.

[ragamuffin]

Originally posted by Manbik
HINT : Racing these cars is not about which is faster of the line. Both can win races if a good driver is behind the radio. So I guess you need to ask yourself... are YOU better than the other driver?

I think that the original poster of the question should spend some time over on the HPI Forums for awhile first, lol.

[macman]

I have owned both Veteq and MRx-3 and I will say that the MRX-3 launches and comes out of a corner much faster than a Veteq.
withthe very same motor.
sold the Veteq.
my pit man will tell you the same he is the one that made the statement first.
not tring to make anyone mad. just stating truth.

this car is the whip.

Mac ,telling it as it is:o

[rc10gtisthebest]

I can't wait! as soon as i sell my reflex i will have one of these babies in the flex's parking spot...


What engine do you all recommend?


Thanks,
Todd

[NitroOwnsYou]

It really depends on your wallet. Theres tons to choose from for 1/8th onroad. I run the JP Racing .21's

Jr

[macman]

I have a Nova Rossi (R-1 race)
and a REX R-1 race the Rex is a tad faster then thr Nova but these motors are made at the same plant.

Unless you race competetion you will not notice the difference or need a JP motor.

No disrespect to other posts.

good Luck

[fasRC]

Guys, at my local track I have a really bad push comming out of a fast sweeper. Once my car slows down a bit the push disappears. I run 35 shore tires all the way around with the stock springs. I run flat sway bars in the back and the front.

Any setup tip to alleviate this would be apperciated.

thanks.

also camber in the rear is -3 and -1 in the front.

[macman]

I would go back to the stock rear bar and if that didnt help go with 30 shore all around.
also I found the the Parma R-8 Audi body makes for better cornering over the Lola bodies.
also they make a (gray) spring for the front thats softer than the white.
The servo saver is adjusted stiff enough??
What kind of ride height do you run?
lower will push more.

Good Luck
MAC

[fasRC]

for ride hieght i run 6 in the back and 4 in the front....I don't know how tight my saver is...i'll look at that tonight.....as far as the body and tires are concerend...its the same as what I ran in my previouse mrx3 before i sold it and i did not have this issue.

Thanks Macman.

[JWF_FRANI]

hey guys just saw this new body from protoform

[macman]

JWF_FRANI , where did you see the new body?
I will look at there web but I was just there.

Thanks

[JWF_FRANI]

i saw it @prolineracing.com

[fasRC]

Ya I saw that on their site a while ago, its pretty nice. It comes with the wing and decals too.

[vega]

is there an engine like a .25 that I could buy, but get about the same top speed as a jp race or rody c5? I am not gonna race my mrx-3 there are no tracks where I live just huge empty parking lots, so I don't have to be worried about engine size, all I want is top speed without the $500 engine price.

[tekrsq]

Originally posted by vega
all I want is top speed without the $500 engine price.

Don't we all !!!!!!!

[fasRC]

I have a Sirio in mine and I can easily keep up with the JP's and Rody's at my track. The price was $290+tax. I had a C4 before and this feels faster on the top end to me. I use the C4 as backup now.

Also, If you want to just drive in a parking lot....i highly recommend you don't get an 8th scale car. These cars are made for a track and you will be very disappointed in its handling on a parking lot.

[macman]

Fasrc, have you ever had a Nova Rossi RX-21-R1.
I have not owned a R/B or a JP.
However my REX race was a bit faster than the Nova race.
can you post the other motors you have.

I was thinking about getting a Sirio , but if there only a small difference on the top end I will stay with the Nova Rossi built motors.

Thanks
Mac the Hack

:D

[macman]

vega, If there is no track you will have more fun with a 200mm Sedan.
Just for starters the 1/8 car will eat tires. without a clean surface the car will push like s sled and wear tires fast and at approx. 55-60 for a set that may not last the day you will be sad.
Go sedan with rubber tires they are almost as fast as a 1/8 car and the rubber will get better traction on a parking lot surface.
besides .12 motors around 160-180 dollars
.21 " " " " 390-430 dollars
you will be glad you went that way.

My 2 cents

Mac
;)

[mugenracer123]

hey guys i have bin racing a picco integra and with the release of the new car i have decided to purtuse an mrx-3 because they will be discontinuing mine. so im am happy to anounce i have become a member of the mugen famlely:D
if there any thing that will help me with the car like some tips problems you have had ect. any advise would be aprecheated

thanks
scott

[macman]

The gray clutch disc and super hard clutch spring are a help.
I like the gray rear springs on the Toledo track.
Most guys dont do nay more than that.
The cars a rocket out of the box.

You will love this car!!!
:D

Good Luck Mac

[fasRC]

Macman,

I never owened a R1 but I did have the older Evo2 7port and this motor does feel by far faster. I have owned 2 older piccos and a rb c4 which I use as a back up and this Sirio feels faster than all. I think for the price, the Sirio is well worth it considering that a new piston and sleeve for a JP is 2/3 the cost of the complete Sirio.


Mugen racer....macman is right about the car....you don't really need to do much from the factory parts to get it to hookup....mine is completley stock except for the adjustable rear swaybar which in my opinion was a $60 doller eye candy. Also, you may want to get the Kawahara side belt tensioner.....other than that, you should be fine.

[Manbik]

The car doesnt really need anything for hopups, it's more like you need additional tuning options.


Personally I would go with:
Kawahara Side Belt Tensioner (known problems with stock one)
The different spring options for the shocks
Super Hard Clutch Spring
Speedline/Delta Red Clutch Shoe
Both Rear option sway bars, the 2.4mm and the new blade type.

Most of my tuning is done in the Rear with shock springs and the swaybar. Only thing I touch up front is the front swaybar.

-Jason
MRX3.com

[piccoracer123]

.

[mugenracer123]

ya i will deffently get some shock springs asap i went to the 2nd paris momoral this year and i was swaping out springs like no tomarrow. ya im excited to try another car i think this one will be ausom

i have a picco modified xp and a g1 but in vegas i streched the crank on the xp in a runaway so i think i will go with the sirio or the rossi maronellow. that red crank case looks prity hot

what do you guys tend to brake parts wise or what shuld i stock up on

thanks scott

[Manbik]

Common breakage for me:
Rear Lower Arms
Front Lower Arms
Front Bulk Head
Front Body Mount
Front Uprights
Front and Side Belts
Dogbones and Drive Cups (CVD's are a nice buy up front)
Shock Shafts if you hit exceptionally hard
Steering linkage, again if you hit hard

Eventually you will need to replace the front bumper because of excessive sagging, I have been meaning to try one of those bumper stiffner doodads. And you will probably break the rear bulkhead at some point.

[mugenracer123]

ok thanks


were do you guys get you parts from?

[tekrsq]

www.speedline-rc.com . The website is outdated, but get the number and call them. Everything you need and EXCELLENT support/knowledge of all the Mugen cars.

[mugenracer123]

ok thats grate because i did not rell have a place to get parts. i also have a mugen xr works buggy so its nice to have a good place to get parts

[Manbik]

I order local now but I used to order from Speedline ( they deal with COD's though). I also used Ace, Nitro House and of course Ashford.

Links to all these sites are on the links page of my site.

[mugenracer123]

ya i like nitro house that is were my car is comeing from

[mugenracer123]

do you guys use speed tec at all i like them to

[tekrsq]

I've used Speedtech, Ace, Nitrohouse, and Ashford. Had excellent service with all of them, but I don't like having to keep up with multiple orders from muktiple places. Mike at Speedline has treated me VERY well, and given some excellent advice on my cars, so I feel a certain amount of "loyalty" to him.

[macman]

Guys as far as the spares it would be best to get frt. dog bones / inner drive cups / Frt.bumper these are the only parts you will damage unless you get in a bad one.
I have not broke a frt, upright yet.
you need a real high bite track to use the blade rear bar.
the Fast brand foams work great.
I have used the 35 and 37 shore.
and you will usually need them in sets of 4.
only once I used 37 frt. and 35 rears.
traction was very high that day.

I raced the snakes before and will never go back.
the fit and finish of the Mugen cars are way superior.

all this talk is making me need the smell of burnt NITRO. live in Michigan and havent raced in 2 months :mad:


Mac

[mugenracer123]

i know i am so man i have not raced since vegas:mad: but the seson will start in march so thats good

ya i cant decided what motor i want. im relly debating betwene the RB C5, novarossi kangiroo, sirio, and the jp modifyed kangaroo so many choiceis. thow the C5 has the most ports it has 9+2 so i think that mite be the one:confused:

[macman]

You know that Nova Rossi cast all the R/B & Nova Mega (Serpent)parts to there spec.
R/B and Nova Rossi work hand & hand to make some of the faster /durable motors around.
from what I understand the C-5 is the same block as Nova Rossi casted for the Nova Mega EV05 for the Serpent Veteq.
I know I made that Veteq mistake.
and the only difference between the C-4 / EV04 and C-5 / EV05 is that the block was made beefier to hold up to the 2 piece classis flex of the Veteq.
the piston /sleeve /crank are the same.

this may help in your choice of motor.
:o

MAC

[macman]

Manbik,the Speedline/Delta Red Clutch Shoe.
is this harder or softer than the black or gray?

Thanks MAC

[Manbik]

Originally posted by macman
Manbik,the Speedline/Delta Red Clutch Shoe.
is this harder or softer than the black or gray?

It's odd that shoe. It grabs as well as the Mugen Gray but the wear on the shoe is fantastic! I just replaced mine when I bought the C5. Not because the shoe needed replacing, just thought that the new engine deserved new clutch pieces. The old shoe has a season of racing on it and is still usable... and out here, we run every weekend all year long.

[macman]

Manbik , Thanks!

and out here, we run every weekend all year long.

that would be great.

[mugenracer123]

ya i still cant decid so do you think that the rb would be a better motor than the siero because the sirio is that aac construction and it has the aluminum sleve so that it expands at the same rate as the piston witch gives you more compression.or the c5 witch is standerd abc construction and has more ports 9+2 and the sirio only has 8+2 so betwene those to i just cant decid witch would be a better motor:confused: :confused:

[mugenracer123]

do you guys have any pics of your mrx3 whean i get mine all bilt i will post a pick

[Manbik]

Go the Member's Ride area of the MRX3.com site, pictures there of a few people's car.

When I went to my C5 from a C4, I had to tighten my 2-speed by 1.5 turns on both screws to get it to shift in the correct spot again... that much more torque on that engine over the old.

[mugenracer123]

relly so you think the c5 is better than the sirio

[Manbik]

Originally posted by mugenracer123
relly so you think the c5 is better than the sirio

I never said that. :)

Do I think the C5 is better than the C4? Yes.

I have no experience with the Sirio engines.

[fasRC]

I have the C4 and the Sirio I prefer the sirio over it only because I it seems to have more top end for me. As far as the C5 is concerned, it is an improvment over the C4 and I have always found that Novarossi based engines are very reliable. If you have the money get the C5, if not, get the Sirio, its a good motor, only thing i do not know is its durablity compared to the C4 or C5.....Nova based engines seem to last for 12 to 15 gallons on the same piston and sleeve if you take care of them. The Sirio has yet to proove itself...I have only a gallon on it so far.

Hope this helps.

[mugenracer123]

ok well i think i will go with the c5 because i was thinking you know the aluminum sleve? i dont think that it would be verry durible in the long run.aluminum tends to get worn out faster becayse it is softer mettle than copper

[mugenracer123]

i got the car last night and i got the whole front end put on looks good:D

[mugenracer123]

i got it all done but i have no new engine so :(

i was wondering how do you guys set up your clutches. well i mean with the scrye that hold the clutch bell on.

[macman]

mugenracer123 , they will all shim a little different.
you will start by making sure that the clutch bell will not drag on the clutch disc when you push the bell backward toward the disc.
if it drags start with just enough shim to keep the bell free rolling.

mac

[mugenracer123]

but should i have the scrue all the way titened

[tekrsq]

Screw the thrust bearing pilot shaft all the way in. There should be about .4mm of endplay when it's tight. If not, you need to reshim it. To much endplay will quickly wear out the clutch shoes.

[Manbik]

Too much end play will also destroy the thrust bearing. Don't ask how I know. :D

[CHUCKMANDO]

I may be able to get one slightly used. Hopefully I will be picking up a car soon. Does anyone run this engine on their mrx3. Any comments. If not has anyone seen them in action. I am upgrading from touring. Most around here were running nova megas. I was thinking this or maybe even a rb c-5, but may be able to work out a deal for the rossi. Thanks in advance

[macman]

Chuckmando are you talking http://www.teamtrinity.com/nitro/engines/rossi/rossi.asp
Or are you talking ( http://www.novarossi.com/ )

I can tell you that the Novarossi motors are fast and the most used motor parts in nitro racing.
I have a Nova (RX 21 R - Race )$385.00
and REX ( PR 21 R1 )$385.00
However Novarossi makes R/B motors / Mugen / HPI / and others.

hope that helps
MAC :o

[CHUCKMANDO]

I am looking into the Rossi, not the Nova rossi. Thanks for the come back. Can anyone else please help as I am on a limited budget and may be able to work out a deal for this engine on time.
Tks

[tekrsq]

I've heard good things about the Rossi engines. I've only seen 1 run, and I can honestly say it was impressive. But I can't comment on longetivity, tuneability, etc. I'm with Macman, I run only Novarossi engines in my cars. However with Trinity being the US importer for them now, I guess I'll be switching to R/B when it comes time for replacement.

[kakolitoy]

Originally posted by CHUCKMANDO
I am looking into the Rossi, not the Nova rossi. Thanks for the come back. Can anyone else please help as I am on a limited budget and may be able to work out a deal for this engine on time.
Tks .

Hi!

I can probaly help if u can give me a estiamte of how much is the engine here in the U.S.


I get most of my stuff in Asia such as JP, Novarossi, STS, and CMB.

I never really purchase a Rossi. If u can tell me what is the number of the specific .21 Rossi. I will try to get back to u as fast as I can.

[mugenracer123]

iv tryed no shems and i still have no end play help:confused:

[tekrsq]

Originally posted by mugenracer123
iv tryed no shems and i still have no end play help:confused:

Try taking a shim (or 2) out from behind the bell. If the bell now rubs the clutch shoe, then you will probably have to remove a shim from behind the flywheel.

[mugenracer123]

i got it i used a longer scrue and 1 more shem and works grate.
i will post a pick asap as i get my new pipe

[CHUCKMANDO]

Oh well, Rossi was sold. You snooze you loose. I now have to figure which new engine to get. Any more suggestions? I really don't want to sgo for 600 on a rody mod Rb. I just put in an order for the limited edition mrx3, Will be here monday. Cannot wait

[mugenracer123]

hey jason i just relized you took all of thos pictures at the paris momoral there grate you took a lot of my car:D
im the american flag picco car. i had so so manny problems in vegas:mad: one thing led to another.but i took it relly easy during the last mane. the guys i was racing sux. but i came home with 2 trophys a first and a scond:D . will you be there in aprial?

[Manbik]

Of course, that is my home track and our club is hosting the race. I'll be running Timing and Scoring, come over and say 'Hi!'. Hopefully I will have some free time to race my car also. Needless to say with me running the computer and trying to race my car, there won't be time enough for pictures. :(

[mugenracer123]

well ill bring my digital cammra and get some for my home club marcar so i will send them to you to

ya i just cant decid if i want to bring the mrx3 or the tc3? i will probley go fot the mrx3 but i dont know im excited to go tho:D
ya with marcar hosting it last time i did not have all the free time i wanted to do every thing i wanted to do to my car betene maning tech and doing the flagging i was quite bissy :( . well next year i will be able to work on my car since we will not be hosting it. i cant wate for our first race to start in march:D i want to race:mad:


ps: right know im out of town as soon as i get back i will post some pics of the car with the rossi in it. looks prity ausom if i do say so my slfe.:D

[Manbik]

Who is hosting it next year?

[mugenracer123]

you sayed you would be. but i was talking abought last year well the paris momoral in oct.

[mugenracer123]

im getting readdy to paint a body for the car and i want to do the mugen paint sceam with the checkers on the sides. do you guys know if i should use liquid mask or tape?

[mugenracer123]

seems like this thred is dieing out:(

[tekrsq]

Originally posted by mugenracer123
seems like this thred is dieing out:(

It's not dying...the car is just so awesome, nobody has anything to complain about.:D :D :D

[mugenracer123]

ya true true

[mugenracer123]

do you guys have any pics that you can post of your ausome cars:D :D :D

[Manbik]

Originally posted by mugenracer123
you sayed you would be. but i was talking abought last year well the paris momoral in oct.

Sorry for the confusion. Our club is hosting the Speedline Grand Prix, MARCAR still hosts the Paris race. Both races at our track though.

[mugenracer123]

o or i get it now:D

i will post pics asap of my car looks hella cool

[mugenracer123]

here it is

[mugenracer123]

.

[mugenracer123]

.

[Manbik]

Nice car. I don't know what it is but I just enjoy looking at pictures of this car. I must be addicted or something. :)

-Jason
MRX3.com

[mugenracer123]

lol me to i love the red crank case of the engine.

[raffaelli]

nice paint!

what is that engine?:D

[Manbik]

That there be a Rossi engine.

[PCC]

Rossi Maranello.

[mugenracer123]

yep and it runs elexent

[misio]

HI
I am new to MRX3 and I have some question for you. What is the idea of using small pulley in front side belt, and did you normally change your pulleys for different gear ratio?

I have my used in very good condition, just put C5 Coll, and I just love that car.

[mugenracer123]

it is relly to change the over drive ratio

a smaller one will give you less pull on the front tires a biger one will give you more pull on the front tires

[mugenracer123]

hey guys i have bought a mugen starter box and im having some problems with it, it does not have enough power to start the eng ine should i put in some bigger motors o what?

[jblaze725]

i have the same problem with my mtx2 prospec but with mine its that the rubber wheel isnt making good contact with the flywheel. its probably cause im just new to starter boxes all my other engines were pull starts. anyways thats a beautiful car. hopefully one day if i can stop wasting my money ill get a 1/8 myself.

[bl8zn]

anyone know if these two cases are the same....i need a case for my ev4ms and was told that most novarossi based engine casings are the same....casting of both casings appear different but was hoping internal porting are the same.....any ideas are appreciated...thanks

[macman]

bl8zn, I answered this question in the Veteq forum.

Good Luck
MAC

[mugenracer123]

do you guys have any pics of your mrx3? with out bodys

[Manbik]

My lil ole car.
http://www.mrx3.com/pictures/Jason_MRX3_3.jpg

[mugenracer123]

its so prdy! you have a lot of hopups on it

[macman]

Jason, being the PRO that you are .
you know you can push that dent out of that pipe by capping the holes after filling with watter and closely watching it while it in the freezer.
approx.1 hour 1 1/2.

the only hop-up I see is the chamber and R/B C-5.

Sweet racer dude
MAC
:D

[Manbik]

I fixed another pipe with the freezer trick, just this one doesnt bother me too much and that dent doesn't seem to effect anything right now. I should get a picture of the twins together, the other guy isn't as put together as this one is but it needs the spotlight too. :) I'll do that when I get home from work. haha

[mugenracer123]

Originally posted by macman
Jason, being the PRO that you are .
you know you can push that dent out of that pipe by capping the holes after filling with watter and closely watching it while it in the freezer.
approx.1 hour 1 1/2.

the only hop-up I see is the chamber and R/B C-5.

Sweet racer dude
MAC
:D

it hase some hop-ups like the pice of carbon fiber on the front body mounts and the spechal clutch shoe and im sur there are some other hop-ups lurking in that car

what do you recomend caping the pipe with

[mugenracer123]

jason do you have any more mrx-3.com stickers i would love to advertise for you

[macman]

I use rubber or plastic caps avaiaable at Murrays/Automotive supply/and a good hardware store should help.
ZIP TIE them on.
I have been a wrench all my life so there always stuff like that around.
I saved a pipe I thought was scrap that way.
You may need to remove the pipe from freezer and put back in after some thawing has occured that will let it expand more.
Jason for the most part I was just messing with you .
Beauty of a racer !!!

MAC
:o

[Manbik]

The MicroRCshop.com sells that lil Carbon Fiber brace on the front body mount. I'm kind of testing it for him but he is selling them right now. I wasn't sure about it at first because it seems that it would transfer any force from a frontal impact right into the bulkheads but... after installing it and playing with it a bit, there is still a lot of play in the mount to absorb some of that energy.

We'll see how it goes.

[mugenracer123]

here is the twins

hey jason do thes tropheys look familiar

[mugenracer123]

.

[Manbik]

Why I have one that looks similiar to those. :)

[macman]

mugenracer123 , NICE paint!!

paint them yourself ?

[mugenracer123]

ya i painted them i love to paint!!

ya i know i saw your pic at the paris momoral with your car and your trophey

[macman]

The PF-1 LMP has anyone painted one yet and can you post pictures.
the Protoform web site paints have a lot to desire.

thanks Mac
:D

[mugenracer123]

the body i posted is one i can send you more pics

[mugenracer123]

here is a cupple of it alone will you post some in you mrmbers rides section of mrx3.com i can let you know what hop-ups it has on it if you want to

[mugenracer123]

.

[mugenracer123]

.

[Manbik]

OK kids, put on your drool bibs and check this out. :)

http://www.mrx3.com/reviews/mico_2.jpg

[Manbik]

I just pulled my "A-Car" apart real quick so I could measure weight from stock to the new chassis. First I want to mention that my stock chassis was modified a bit so it was just a tad lighter than normal to begin with and after comparing the two, the new Mico chassis is 25 to 50 grams lighter than Mugen chassis. Exact weight is Unknown since my scale in't the greatest, but it definetly lighter.

I guess I'm glad I got the new chassis because this is the first time that I actually checked the alignment on the one that I was running and it's a bit out of whack. :)

[tekrsq]

Jason,
What's it made of??

[macman]

Jason,is it thicker than the stock plate?
and what was the price or is it a test part?

Thanks

:D

[Manbik]

Same thickness of 5mm. I haev no idea what the exact alloy is, the package reads "Aerospace Alum .190 - 5mm THK".

Ashford (http://www.ashfordhobby.com) sells them for $114.50.

[NitroOwnsYou]

Hrmm..... Isnt the stock one 7075 alum at 5mm. I tought it was 7075, but I got wicked bad CRS, so dont hold me to that. I think ide polish and lighten a stock one(good quality alum) before Ide jump on that one. A lightened Ti chassis would be very nice, and with the thickness it should be strong enough to prevent snapping.

JR

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by NitroOwnsYou
Hrmm..... Isnt the stock one 7075 alum at 5mm. I tought it was 7075, but I got wicked bad CRS, so dont hold me to that. I think ide polish and lighten a stock one(good quality alum) before Ide jump on that one. A lightened Ti chassis would be very nice, and with the thickness it should be strong enough to prevent snapping.

Hi all:

Just a quick note. Titanium dissipates heat like crap, their advantages is that much harder, but with a 33% of more weight to a comparable sheet of 7075 Aluminium and their memory, so it don't bends or warps.

Personally, I have an MRX3 and the new MTX3 and if I smack something pretty wild, prefeer to have a chasis that warps but not fryes engines.

Manbik: very pretty that Mico chassis.... do a show here of any parts that test.

BTW: Sirio AAC on my MRX rocks. Maybe isn't too expensive as R1's and JP's but you can keep frightening them for a lesser price. Mine has almost 3 gallons thru their piston and works flawless.

[macman]

Corse-R , what did you pay for the Sirio.21 ?
and I agree on aluminum vs titanium.
Ti is great stuff just not for chassis's

also have you had a Nova rossi RX-21-R1 or similar?
and how is the power band on the Sirio?

Thanks MAC

:D

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by macman
Corse-R , what did you pay for the Sirio.21 ?

also have you had a Nova rossi RX-21-R1 or similar?
and how is the power band on the Sirio?

Paid for the Sirio 379 Euros (Nova R1 costs about 430 Euros and JP stand for 480 and upper), and for their price is the most bang for the buck. Tried previously with Nova exhaust, but with Sirio exhaust works better due to their slightly different powerband.

Previously had some Picco G1 and XP's but preferred the Sirio.

Powerband of Sirio is slightly different, but loves to run at ultra-high (and conrod killer for others) rpms. Definitely love the Sirio.

At my track are plenty of Nova R1, Rex and NovaMegas (in fact on a club level race we run 18 - 22 racers) and is on a par level.

[misio]

http://www.misio.com/all%20my%20photos/rc%20photos/mrx3%20flames%202.JPG

[Manbik]

oops some confusion I guess. The mico chassis is not titanium but it is aluminum, like the stock chassis. Now if it's the same alloy that Mugen uses (shrug). The chassis is lighter though. I'll have exact #'s later tonight since I have to move the Mico chassis to the new kit that I got.

If you are not on my E-mail list, you are missing some great information that never makes it to the site. Just go to the website and click the picture that looks like a newspaper.

Lately I have been fanatical about lightening my drive train and unsprung weight. So with that... here's some numbers.

Mugen Option Brake Disk - 13 Grams
Mugen Stock Brake setup - 14 Grams
Kawahara Brake Disk - 15 Grams

Titanium Pivot balls are 1 gram lighter per ball over stock ones. 8 grams total in savings.

Testing on the Samara Racing Front Bumper Brace is excellent! I had an incident last Sunday where I tried taking the sweeper a bit too tight and touched the inside boards at about 40mph... spun the car and then smacked the outside board at about 20mph approx. the car just bounced off of it and I continued on. Post race inspection showed nothing broke or cracked and the bumper mount was still straight.

-Jason
MRX3.com

[macman]

Corse-R
Thanks for the input on the Sirio .21.
glad to hear good reprts on this eng,
I think I will get one.

mac:D

[fasRC]

Going on my 4th gallon on my Serio and my starter box still has problems turning it when its cold......can't go wrong with its price...i paid $279 plus tax on it and a JP piston and sleeve alone costs $229. Very happy with it.....

[tekrsq]

Finally got a dig cam yesterday. Here's a couple of pics I tried while learning to use this thing. (Be gentle-- this is my first dig cam. I'm still learning!!!)