Thunder Tiger EK4

[RCCARTMAN]

Bigdaddy... U broke it in today? in one day? 2 gallons? Did U start at sunrise and stop at sunset? Seriously, how many tanks did you go through before you started to lean out the high end? I ran about 8 tanks before I made any adjustments to the needles. I started at 3 turns out. The first 5 tanks were stable idle runs, and the next three were speed burst on the oval. After that minor adjustments such as an eight turn in. I am still breaking mine in and it is taking wonderfully to the 15% heli fuel. I am getting major speed from this formula and I have yet to make any drastic changes to the settings. I am going to finish running the 2 gallons of 15% through and then I'll visit my local expert and have him fine tune it. He said that he has a .80 heli engine that he can put in there for me that has much higher RPMS and HP. I may take him up on this sale. He got it to do wheelies with a few 1/8 turns. I am going to leave it set there until I finish the 15%. Good Luck, and don't take any short cuts on finishing the breakin.

[BigDaddy550]

rccartman....nah man I didnt run 2 gallons through it today. 2 gallons is just when your engine is going to be completely broken in for the fine adjustments. I ran 6 tanks at idle at 2.5 on the high and then ran slow for the 7th and 8th tank then after that started turning the high in 1/8 at a time. I'm getting about 7-8 minutes on a tank which I dont think is bad because like they say you cant have power and mileage at the same time. I am already enjoying this truck a lot more than my T-maxx. I can actually turn at more than an idle without flipping! Thanks guys. Also, when its cold you have to go leaner..correct? Good luck!

RC

[RCCARTMAN]

Only if lights out. It has to be set so that the plug isn't too cold and flames out. If you run an onboard ignition system, you can run richer.

[GLWBEAR]

RCCARTMAN: Hey, its me GLWBEAR. I just got your message about the EK-4 and your T-Maxx. I agree, I too have about $1400 invested into my T-Maxx and sure it's great to look at but it's still a .21 Truck!

What about your Thunder Quake??? I was afraid of this as it seemed too "Outa the Box" for me and too plastic. I didn't see any after Market stuff for this truck and I was afraid I'd be waiting forever for plastic parts if I busted something??? How does yours run? Are you pleased with it?

BACK TO THE EK-4: Give me a few items to check out before I get mine and fire it up. I know to loctitie everything in sight. What about the front & rear differentals? Anything else? What fuel did you end up using? Houligan sure hasn't had too good of luck, and some other guy blew a motor. NOT GOOD!
Keep me informed and I'll do the same.

Regards,

GLWBEAR
:rolleyes: :) :eek:

[hooligan]

yeah, hooligan didnt have too much of luck with his ek4 BUT hooligan has by now tackled all his titsy problems and now rocks his truck full power through the dirt with unstoppable powers !! :D

guys the first rc truck/car/plane that you dont have to work on and that runs perfect everytime still has to be invented.
sure a leaking front bearing is bad, but a easy fix.
i personally dont mind repairing so i dont care too much.
i am having a blast with this truck and so are thousands of others.
the 5 a 6 people on this board dont represent every ek4 in the world and bad news travels way faster then good news.

gerard.

[wipeout]

Well said Hooligan!:D

[BigDaddy550]

Hey has anyone with the ek-4 have problems with their one-way slipping in the started mechanism? Mine worked great all yesterday but went out to run it today and it slipped so much I had to put it back on the shelf. Is there anything I can do about it or can I just use a bump start?? Thanks guys!

RC

[dc]

Hi Everyone
Got my ek4 and impresion factor(1-10) 20 I got everything locktighted. Started the brake in and I had it run in reverse olso
3 times so far ? keeping an eye on it. I'm not the best tuner but getting this motor to idle is tough. But alas the tail of woe, I think I have a bad RX as it ran away and found my fence well here is the damage report. Impact was R front, broke lwr arm, knukel and cv axle. Bent servo saver top plate ,R top hinge pin and plastic mount. Bent shock tower to but I straighted,minor tweak.Parts are on the way friday I hope.I feel the need for speed EK4 style:eek: :confused: :o :cool:

[nitro tiger]

WHAT STARTER ARE YOU GUY'S USING FOR THE EK4 TRUCK I WAS GOING TO USE MY DRILL IT HAS A TORQ SETTING ON THE END SO YOU DON'T RIP OUT THE PISTION IF IT IS TO BE FLOODED!!! THANK S FOR YOUR HELP I GETTING READY TO BREAK THIS THING IN ON SAT!!!

[hooligan]

bigdaddy> remove the backplate and place one or two shims under the ring. that will fix your problem.

nitro tiger> cordless drill will do fine.

[wipeout]

The front bumper on the ek-4 is much to be desired, I am going to make a better one.Any suggestions?

[ducklake1]

I had problems with my bearing slipping.
It was because it's so cold here, 25degrees, i put the hair dryer to it, to heat it up. No problems since.

I've ran about 3/4 gallon through mine.
I'm using Cool Power fuel, 30%.

Mine runs real rich, i try to lean it out and it starts running funny, not smooth. I don't know if it has anything to do with it being so cold. I was thinking about going back to my Race Formula, Blue Thunder, to see if it would run better. It's so cold here i'm thinking i might not need that much oil to cool it down.

Anybody had these problems??

[BigDaddy550]

Im soaking my one way in denatured alcohol right now. Thanks hooligan. I think that a lot of us are not use to tuning a big heli engine and it'll take a little work but with some effort we'll get it. Im running Blue Thunder 20% that I will be able to tell you how good its running with it tomorrow, ducklake. Good luck guys. I hope to run mine quit a bit tomorrow. Later

RC

[RCCARTMAN]

To keep it from starting in reverse make sure the piston is not at the bottom of the stroke before the starting rod is used. This works for me, but it is still fun to see it run in reverse.:p

[BigDaddy550]

Hooligan>what exactly are you talking about when you say put a shim under the ring? Whats the ring? I soaked my bearing and it worked good for awhile but slips like crap again. Hows your engine running now? Thanks

RC

[muswagon]

You know what, if you thought the aftermarket did well for the T-Maxx, just wait till EK4 stuff starts coming out! With so many little quirks to fix, and the huge demand for these trucks, it's a gold mine!:D

[hooligan]

bigdaddy (and others offcourse)> the problem is NOT your one way bearing slipping !
take off the rear cap of your engine, pop out the plate that holds the one-way bearing. you see the shaft in the plate that actually holds the plate with the bearing.
place one ore two shims around that shaft.
i used 2 0.1mm shims (rings)
the goal is to make the plate with the bearing come out somewhat.
look at the plate around the little notch where it drives your crank, i bet its a little scruffed around there becouse the plate slips over your crank.
the rings will crush that problem straight into the ground ! :D

benn there, done that and never had it slip one more time again. ;)

[hooligan]

sidenote : my engine is running like a dream now ! the power of the fully broken in engine is amazing.
i never ever have to doubt that if i yank the throttle or it will pull wheelys.
have to be carefull with the gas or it will rip itself loose completely of the ground and then go on its path on the rear wheels :D
setting the idle on the truck is difficult.
just make sure your main needle is set, and your trucks top end is ok.
then adjust the idle screw (the one that controls the gap of the slide) to make it idle fine.
i set it a tatsy bit higher then my .21 car becouse i dont want it to stall on me.
let it idle for 10 sec.
give full throttle. it should blast away fine.
if it stalls, lean out the low end screw in the throttle linkage somewhat.

good luck.

gerard.

[Unregistered]

Have you noticed any chabge in fuel economy now that the engine is broken in?

[Brian_El Paso]

Originally posted by nascarfreak88
that and the 2-speed........ but you have ta admit that would be pretty Sweet!!!!

oh and the 90mph thing, well if it goes 30 w/.15 and i've heard 60 w/.21 (weather thats ture i dont know) and a .70 is 'bout 3x a .21 it would hit some ware round 90mph mathmaticly, but i would gear it down as far as i could go..... but than it would probbibly still hit 70-80mph........

OK, I've actually read enough of these 90mph messages that I registered and am replying. First of all, just because the engine is three times the size doesn't mean it has 3X the horsepower. The Pro 70 has 2.25 Hp vs 1.1 HP for an OS .12 CVR. In fact, several .21 engines have over 2 Hp, the same as the Pro 70. What it does have is more torque, which will allow it to turn higher gear ratios, and give it the power to lift its front wheels off the ground during acceleration. The truck goes 37 mph out of the box, it could have been geared differently and probably go around 40-45 with less acceleration, and with a two speed transmission it could possibly go even faster. The T-Maxx with the same engine would have the same limits. Engine RPM also plays a roll with top speed too, but it just gets very complex. The point is, with the right gear ratio and engine you could set up anyone of these vehicles to out race the other, what the 70 gives you is great torque to lift the front tires, accelerate quickly, and go up hills. Besides, who could actually drive one of those trucks at 90 mph :)

[BigDaddy550]

Ugh!! I'm so sick and tired of this POS starter system I wanna send the truck back. I did what Hooligan said and bought 6 dollars worth of shims only to have it work for 1 start then the same old thing. I mean this truck would rule if I could actually get it started. I put 2 shims in and that didnt help so I kept taking it apart and adding more and am now up to 6 or 7. The thing is it'll grip good at slow turns of the drill but when you speed it up enough to start it just freewheels. Im gonna have to do something or I'm getting a refund!

RC

[hooligan]

bigdaddy

sounds your bearing is dead :(
havent had any probs anymore with mine.
anybody else ?

[muswagon]

This sounds simple, but maybe it's the drill? My drill has a torque/slip setting from 1 to 8, then a no slip option. I thought my one way was slipping until I reset the drill. Just a thought.

[BigDaddy550]

Nah, the drill I'm using doesnt have any of that torque setting or anything. I was all hyped about running it all day today and get it running good but it didnt happen. Heck they could make them like the old cars where you stick the crank in (drill) and turn and when it starts it'll kick it out for you. That would be a helluva lot better. I must be a jinx when it comes to one-ways though cause the ones in my OS slip and everything. I wanna go have fun!!

RC

[ducklake1]

Is it cold where you live?? Where do you live?

I have to heat mine up before i attempt to start it or it won't start, it's too cold, 20 degrees.
I point the hair dryer at it for a few min's to warm it up, no problems.
If i don't do that, it'll just slip all the time, won't start at all.

[nitro tiger]

IS EVERYONE USING A DRILL I WAS GOING TO USE MINE BUT I AM SCARED THE ROD WILL NOT BE BALANCED IN THE DRILL AND BEND THE CRANK!!! IS THE BALL ON THE END BALANCED OR IS IT JUST FOR THE ELECTRIC STARTERS? I TOOK THE END OF AND PUT IT IN DRILL IT IS ALMOST BALANCED BUT I AM NERVOUS ABOUT THE CRANK UNLESS EVERYONE IS HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM!!!! PLEASE HELP I AM BREAKING IT IN TOMMROW!!!

[midmadn]

My Brother and I both got EK4's for x-mas.

Today was the last and final straw. I've tried everything to get mine to run right. I talked to Brandon at TTR today and He gave me some reccomendations.

I felt like I was gaining on it a little, then the f'in thing blew up. It was coasting to slow down to turn, at an idle and it just made a little clinck sound and stopped dead. It must be the Ring as it turns freely about 300 degrees in either direction then it stops dead.

So, we decided to play with my Brothers to see if we could get his to run anywhere near right. After hours of fiddleing and getting nowhere, we took a break and then when we went back to try fiddleing some more his f'in starter drive messed up. The drill spins as normal but the Engine only turns over at a slow rate. We can't even make the thing run again.

We are done with these things for good.

We went and talked to DirtDummy for a bit and He really seems to think the 30% Heli fuel is the answer, but We just can't stand to even look at the damn things anymore. We are totally EK4'ed out.

So, now they are both broke and we have never even gotten them to run right.

For all those with the leaky front bearing thing, don't bother trying to fix it. Its not really of any concern. The fuel and oil is leaking between the Crankshaft and the inner bearing race. Its most likely not the bearing seal leaking. If you want to get rid of the mess, just put a tiny drop of loc-tite on the end of the crank behind the flywheel collet. Don't put too much or you could mess up the seal or make it hard to get the Engine apart if the need arises. :rolleyes:

If you have one of these and its running great and giving no problems then great for you. I however will never envy you as I don't care to even think about the EK4 ever again.

My Brother said it best - I've had all the fun I can stand. :D

Jack

[muswagon]

Jack, don't run these things in the cold, period.

Are they for sale?

[RCCARTMAN]

What are U guys doing wrong? Mine runs great in the cold weather. It runs at about 160 degrees F and I will continue to run it rich, and get and onboard ignition apparatus to end flame out. Mine turns over 1st try everytime. TOO fast with 15% nitro, can't wait to get into 30%. My temp gun arrives Tuesday.

[MaxxHead]

Did any of you guys check the mesh between your spur and clutchbell? When i got mine it was way too tight. That my be some of the problem with the overheating. When i got mine, i loctited everything, set the spur/bell mesh and put a MIP temp gauge on it. Im runnin' Traxxas 20% fuel. My temp on a 40 deg. day is around 210. Im still runnin' it a little rich.

[MaxxHead]

Does anybody know what the pitch is on the EK-4 spur/clutchbell?

[hooligan]

guys : do not put locktite on a bearing to stopleaking ! that is not the answer.
the leaking accures in the bearing itself, not the space between the bearing and crankshaft so putting locktite on it wont help a thing unless you seal the whole bearing (bad idea becouse they are made to spin around and not stand still)

midmadn> sorry to hear that you and your bro have so much trouble with your truck.
seems to me the problems that accure with setting the engine settings are all down to the ones trying to set the engines !

i had all the same problems, no idle, couldnt get it to keep running, and i let a friend look at it who is a heli man, he tuned it in 5 mins and it hast given me more trouble anymore.
my advice, ask help and start having fun with this thing

if a little engine trouble takes away your fun like this, dont start on nitro rc at all.
go electric ! (maybe a truck with a triple 3KW electric motor will fly like the ek4:D )


gerard

[StevePond]

Maxxhead - the pitch on the gears is 1 module. It's a metric pitch that would equal something in the ballpark of 24 pitch if there were a standard equivalent. It's the same pitch gear that's used on most nitro cars, except for Losi, Associated and Traxxas cars and trucks - they use 32 pitch.

[midmadn]

Originally posted by hooligan
guys : do not put locktite on a bearing to stopleaking ! that is not the answer.
the leaking accures in the bearing itself, not the space between the bearing and crankshaft so putting locktite on it wont help a thing unless you seal the whole bearing (bad idea becouse they are made to spin around and not stand still)

midmadn> sorry to hear that you and your bro have so much trouble with your truck.
seems to me the problems that accure with setting the engine settings are all down to the ones trying to set the engines !

i had all the same problems, no idle, couldnt get it to keep running, and i let a friend look at it who is a heli man, he tuned it in 5 mins and it hast given me more trouble anymore.
my advice, ask help and start having fun with this thing

if a little engine trouble takes away your fun like this, dont start on nitro rc at all.
go electric ! (maybe a truck with a triple 3KW electric motor will fly like the ek4:D )


gerard

I have already posted that the leaking is not really anything to be concerned about.
In my case the leaking was absolutely, positively happening between the Crank and the Inner Bearing Race. You can think what you want.

I agree with you on one point. If your an IDIOT, don't put loc-tite on your Bearing. You could get it on the Seal and cause the Seal to spin and wear out.

If you've worked on Machinery all of your life and know what your doing, you can get rid of the mess and eliminate the possibility of the Seal causing the Engine to run like crap with a small drop of L-T and a little common sense.

I am far from new to Nitro RC.
You shouldn't be so quick to insult people and tell them they don't know what they are doing and should seek help.


I will show my age and maturity here by resisting the urge to insult someone for their opinion. :D Even if it is way off base.

Jack

[Dirt Dummy]

I have met midmadn! He and his brother are not new to nitro. They are two of the nicest guy"s you would ever meet! They just got two of the worst ek4"s ever made. I know the ek4 is new, but there are alot of problems. The manual said run 5% to !5%, ace now said run 20% trinity, people on the forum run everything in between! Some are running fine some are not! There just seems like no baseline to start from

[muswagon]

Hey man, you don't know, well, Jack! :D

Read Hooligan's post again. At no point was he insulting you.
I will, however.
Quit being a big defensive baby, and have fun with your trucks! I waited and saved forever since SteveP released the first video, and I am expecting to have problems, not crying about them. Hooligan and SteveP seem to be the only one's who have running EK4's on here, so be careful where you tread.

Learn how to take some advice. Find a heli guy from your LHS. Quit bashing the EK4 gods (all hail SteveP and Hooligan). Just kidding about the last part!:D

[hooligan]

hey jack ,
do as muswagon said and read my post again.
if you make out of it that i am insulting you, i am sorry that never was my intention.
with seeking help (which as stated in my post, i did myself also) i was hoping that you would have some fun with your truck in the end.
wasnt trying to put you down on the locktite thing but do understand this: loads of guys here with only a minimum of rc nitro nowledge do visit these forums for guidance.
and a ignorent reads putting locktite on his bearing, and whacks a half bottle on it.

wham problems. get my drift ?
why put locktite on it when a fluid proof bearing is only 12 bucks ?

signing off.

hooligan

[nitro tiger]

THIS TRUCK KICKS BOOTY I JUST STARTED BREAKING IT IN AND MAN THIS THING IS FANTASTIC EVERYONE SHOULD OWN ONE!!! THE ONLY PROBLEM I AM HAVING SO FAR IS A LEAKING HEADER WHICH WAS EASILY FIXED.

[BigDaddy550]

I finally got that starter fixed and have been running the EK-4 all day. This baby is running sweeter all the time. The few bugs this truck does have is easily fixed and personally I'm starting to like it a lot more than my T-maxx b/c of wayyyy more power. Well Im going to go run some more. Watch those wheel nuts!

RC

[midmadn]

Hooligan,

I have re-read your post and still find it insulting.

You stated that putting loc-Tite on a Bearing was not a good thing to do and that I didn't have enough brains to figure out wether the leak was from the Seal or between the Crank and the Bearing. You are wrong. I have been around Machinery all of my life. I have prick punched shafts, welded them, chromed them, knurled them and yes in a few instances used a little loc-tite with great results.

I understand and agree with your concern about someone with less experience pouring a half of a bottle of loc-tite on their Crank and causing all kinds of problems. But that isn't what you posted.

You make assumptions and act like I am too cheap or stupid to replace the Bearing. I already did that. The Bearing was only $7.00 for a better brand replacement than the Cheap EZO that came in the Engine. Even though the EZO was fine in the end. The Crank fit the bearing very loosely. Not to the point of being able to detect side clearance, but it drops in easily and does not require any effort.

I even tried a permanently lubed Bearing with Seals on both sides. :D No need to make assumtions on the correctnes of doing that, I don't reccomend it, it was only to further evaluate the leaking.

Hooligan said -
"if a little engine trouble takes away your fun like this, dont start on nitro rc at all.
go electric !"


Here you assumed that it was a little Engine trouble and that I was a newbie to Nitro and that maybe I should go electric. I can understand that maybe it wasn't your intention to insult me, but you were replying to my post and not talking in general.

One of the Trucks Engines is kaput after days of trying to get it to run right. While trying to get the other to run right, the one way bearing in the Starter shaft went kaput.

Before this we played with mine for days and tried 3 different Fuels and could not make the thing run anywhere near correct or for any length of time.

If anyone could put themselves in my shoes and feel that they wouldn't be insulted by your post, then I sincerely apologize to everyone.

I want this Truck to be as good as you and everyone else does. I hate the thought of going back to .21's again. I was spoiled by the Tourque even though I got to experience it only very briefly.

Dirt Dummy re-itterated some of his thoughts last night and we fixed the Starter Drive, (just took it apart and cleaned it) on the one running truck and have been running it today.

The 30% Heli fuel, (DirtDummy recomended) seems to be working well. We have run about 4 Tanks through it and have got it running a touch better. It will even go a whole Tank without stalling out.

The 15% had the Engine all gummed up and loaded with Oil. It took running almost a whole tank of the 30% to clean the thing out and get it to start running somewhere near correct. Without changing any of the settings.

We are still having trouble with the low RPM performance. Once we got either of the Trucks so that it wouldn't die by applying any throttle, the low end seems to lean out and the idle increases. I believe that this is causing a lot of the overheating problem. We just can't get it to stop doing it. We richen the low speed and it doesn't stopp it, if we richen the high or the mid it will just stall if we apply any throttle.

Their is a lot of contradictory information between the Manual and talking to Brandon at Thunder Tiger and talking to the Dirt Dummy.

The manual says to use max 5% heli fuel and not touch the mid or low settings until the Engine is broken in. Only adjust the H. Speed

Brandon at TT said to use 20% Car Fuel and rely mostly on the mid setting to tune the Carb.

Dirt Dummy has been the most help with his thought of using 30% Heli and relying mostly on the High Speed setting. It seems to be working and if We can break this one in without blowing it up, we might be their. :D

I just hope its a lot less tempermental and runs much better when broken in or we will be terribly dissapointed with these Engines.

Thanks Dirt Dummy

and Thank You Hooligan for making me fight this fight a little longer.
I am a very patient person. Please don't assume that I am not and that it was just a few bad tries that made me come here and start typing negative stuff about our dream RC Truck.
I may have to retract that if in the end it still turns out badly.

Dirt Dummy, if you have any time this weekend or Mon/Tues, let me know. We will bring the truck to your house and see what you can do with it. email me and I will call you. :)

I apologize to everyone for leading this post astray.

[jhnyblz]

I got my truck for christmas and put the receiver and servos in on the 26th. Idled 10 tanks through(no joking) at 2 and 3/4 turns. then slow 1/4 throttled for 2 or 3 tanks still and 2 and 3/4 turns. and then it stopped. Attempted to restart, new glow plug, manual carb priming, everything and no restart. Pulled off the head and what did i see, yep a chipped/cracked piston. ooooppps no more ek4 for me. Acehobbies is as most of you know moving so I have to call them back on Jan 8th and then arrange to send my motor out there. This truck is supposed to be a beast but pushing it around my backyard suks.

[muswagon]

Jack, sorry for being so hard on you.

hey guys, who wants to start coming up with aftermarket parts for the EK4?

I had a brand new problem this morning. After setting my needle to 2 turns out to keep it running (great smoke, about 160 degrees at idle) to break it in, sheared off the starter drive. Not hurt the bearing, the outdrive didnt come off, sheared the thing clean off! I am going to yank th head to make sure no piston damage. Wow, I was shocked. I had my drill set at 50% slip, I guess the one way bearing decided to become a two way bearing (identity crisis perhaps??).

So, going to open 'er up, see what I can do. Might end up sending the motor to the HS that I bought from. Can this thing be started with a bump starter? Seems to me (I have ZERO knowledge of bump starting) that the flywheel is too offcentred, and I would have to modify the chassis??

It is now a challenge to get this thing working and running right. Let's keep this post going, as I it won't be long until all of these problems are solved.

Wish me luck!:D

[nitro tiger]

WELL EVERYTHING WAS GOING OK AND THEN A QUICK REV OF THE ENGINE AND THE TRUCK WENT NO WERE I HOPE THE DIFFS ARE OK BECAUSE I CHECKED THEM!!! RCCARTMAN AND HOOLIGAN DIDN'T YOU GUY'S HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WHAT WAS IT? NEVER THE LESS THE TRUCK WAS GOOD ALLDAY BUT NOW IT'S THINKING TIME ANY INPUT WOULD BE HELPFUL THANKS GUY'S

[midmadn]

muswagon, No Problem.

Well I tore it down. My assumption was pretty close. The Piston went as well as the Ring and the ConRod got some damage from the pieces of Piston and Ring. It's looking like a returner still. :(

Just too many people having problems. If I held any faith in this thing holding up, I would see about getting the parts and giving it another go.

Here is a peek -

http://www.faxonwell.com/images/piston.jpg


http://www.faxonwell.com/images/lowerend.jpg

Jack

[jhnyblz]

Midmadn->


That is exactly what my piston looks like. any idea of what is causing this.


Does anyone know where you can by that OS-91 talked about earlier with the 4.85 HP

[RCCARTMAN]

Nitro Tiger it was my set screws after all. The loct tite I use d wasn't strong enough, so I went to the local car parts store and got some thread locker that holds upt to 8,000 p.s.i. That should hold them.

[RCCARTMAN]

U can get it Tower, but you have to have a fan cooling it or else it'll break.

[hooligan]

jack i tried to explain to you but you didnt get my point at all.
in my whole post, i NEVER ment to attack you. those comments were in general and the E-thing was sarcasm.
chill out, it wasnt ment for you personal.

im through appologizing right now, take it or leave it same to me.

gerard.

btw your piston indeed is wrecked bigtime.:(
i understand your bad feelings about the ek4.

[hooligan]

btw jack> how long is your total runtime on the engine ?
the piston looks spanky new, no discoloring from the heat, nothing.
was the ting placed wrong ?
i saw one ek4 of which the pin that locks the ring around the piston wasnt secure, it caused the ring to turn and it went over an port and grabbed some material there.

but the damage wasnt this big

[wipeout]

I've run a gallon of fuel thru mine and it seems to be running fine ,still running rich but going to get a new cooling head next week ,hope it helps with the hot running problem.Haven't really hammerd it yet though.I hope my engine holds up.

[BigDaddy550]

wipeout> where are you getting your cooling head from? I hear autohaus has some. I would like to get one as well. Thanks

RC

[muswagon]

Well,

Everything is bliss inside the engine. Just the starter shaft appears to be toast. If anyone knows of anywhere to get EK4 parts yet, please let me know. It is part number AA0106. One concern though, the connecting rod has a small nick about half way up. Looks very strange. There were no metal shavings inside the motor, so I think it is from pre-assembly. Oh well!?!?

So, does anyone know if this beast can be bump started? Anyone?

Midman, let me know what you are doing with your ehobbies EK4, I would definately be interested in buying it for my nephew. It would also give me something else to work over the winter.

[nitro tiger]

rccartman it looks like that is the problem with it what mm were the screws i am on my way to the store now to see if i can figure something out!!!!!

[jhnyblz]

here is my piston look familiar

maybe two hours of running my ek4

[muswagon]

Looks like it got kinda hot there man!

[Brian_El Paso]

Ok, I've been reading this thread for a few days now. I need advice, I've got about a grand to blow on a new vehicle, and I want a monster truck...I have an RC10GT and a Nitro MT Racer. Is the EK4 worth the trouble. I haven't been to my LHS yet, and don't know if they carry it, if they do, I think I'll actually be willing to pay more for the tech support (several helicopter guys there). Any suggestions????

[nitro tiger]

YOU GUY'S SHOULD RUN ALOT RICHER THAN YOU ARE THERE IS NO SECRET TO THAT!!! WHAT FUEL ARE YOU USING!! I RAN MINE ALL DAY AND IT NEVER GOT HOT LIKE THAT. WHEN I SPOKE TO TTR THEY SAID RUN IT VERY RICH FOR A WHILE. I KNOW A WHEELIE IS NOT POSSIBLE BUT WITH THIS KIND OF INVESTMENT PAITENCE IS A MUST.

[midmadn]

Originally posted by hooligan
jack i tried to explain to you but you didnt get my point at all.
in my whole post, i NEVER meant to attack you. those comments were in general and the E-thing was sarcasm.
chill out, it wasnt ment for you personal.

im through appologizing right now, take it or leave it same to me.

gerard.

btw your piston indeed is wrecked bigtime.:(
i understand your bad feelings about the ek4.

I'll have to take your word for it. I've read your post numerous times and can't see how anyone in my position would have been less insulted.

Apology accepted. ;) Water under the bridge.

I lost track of the run time. I would guesstimate about a dozen full tanks worth. Only once did it actually run for a full tank though.

As far as putting the Piston in correctly, if you are paying attention during dis-assembly and re-assembly, its obvious that the Piston goes in one way only. While you can physically install it either way, the Ring Gap falls between 2 Ports the correct way and in the opening of a port if put in the wrong way. I'm sure I got it the right way. The line up pin was there.

jhnyblz,
while our Pistons look like they have failed in a similar manner, I am concerned that heat may have played a role in yours. It looks like that sucker got hotter than H E double hockey sticks.
I can sympathize with you on the Carb Settings, this thing is so hard to tune it seems impossible.

Muswagon,
If you want, shoot me an offer for my Brothers. It is in perfect running condition, ( ;) ) and except for removing, cleaning and re-installing the Starter Shaft it has never been apart. It has about 10 Tanks run through it. It has never been rolled or flipped or run into anything. The Body has never left the Box it came in. I can snap a few pics if you would like.

Jack

[old phart]

jhnyblz: Sorry to say bud, but your engine got cooked. It is shown by the discoloration of the metal parts. Might as well send it back to TT and see if they will warranty it. Good luck.

[Dirt Dummy]

Fried!!!!!!!

[ducklake1]

Sorry to hear about everybody's problems.
It's good they're being shared so other's can learn.

Mine's still running good. I have about 3/4 gallon through it.
I was running the Cool Power 30% Heli fuel, but went back to the Blue Thunder 30%, because it's so cold here. A little less oil.

I had problems with my radio glitching on me.
Went and bought another one today.
Should be ready to go tomorrow.

I'm using a drill to start mine also.
I just make sure i go pretty slow, just fast enough to start it.

[dc]

Well replaced rx and no more problems!!!! bad novak rx sending it back. I went and did some up grades already my hole front is now red less shock tower, added 60wt oil to the shocks I like it better. My truck got hot 310 going to start all over. My high end was at 2 1/2 ? running 30% cool power,who has cooling heads already. wish me luck


Dave doing it EK4 style

[muswagon]

Does anyone know if the EK4 can be started with a starter box? I am dying to know as I no longer have a starter shaft.

[hooligan]

muswagon> i think if you make the hole in the chassis slightly bigger it can be done.

[wipeout]

You can order the cooling head at autohausrc.com. :D

[nitro tiger]

IF ANYONE LOSES SET SCREWS BUY THE DRIVE CUP THEY ARE 5MM AND I PICKED SOME UP AT HOME DEPOT 50 CENTS. THAT WAS MY SLIPPING PROBLEM THE LOC TITE LET GO I AM TELLING ANYONE WHO IS NOT USING LOC TITE YOU BETTER OR YOU WILL BE LOOKING FOR SCREWS FOR EVER UNTIL THEY ARE AVALIABLE!!

[muswagon]

Well,

I was trying to figure out why my connecting rod has a nick in it, then my eye caught something really scary. There is an actual large chip in the crankshaft counterbalance!!! This was definately there before the thing was even assembled, as there are no metal shavings, and no scoring or damage internally. I am getting the felling that the parts of the PRO 70 that were changed to adapt to the truck were extremely rushed.

If I don't have warrenty, I am going to need your guys' help, as changing the rod and crank, it looks to be a little more difficult than simply removing the starter drive (which is currently the most I have ever done on a Nitro engine!).

[dc]

I think the engine is sitting to high to use a starter box. A hand starter might work but I thing the size of the opening would weaken the chasie because of the engine hight. My 2 cents


Dave doing it EK4 style

[midmadn]

Originally posted by muswagon
Well,

I was trying to figure out why my connecting rod has a nick in it, then my eye caught something really scary. There is an actual large chip in the crankshaft counterbalance!!! This was definately there before the thing was even assembled, as there are no metal shavings, and no scoring or damage internally. I am getting the felling that the parts of the PRO 70 that were changed to adapt to the truck were extremely rushed.

If I don't have warrenty, I am going to need your guys' help, as changing the rod and crank, it looks to be a little more difficult than simply removing the starter drive (which is currently the most I have ever done on a Nitro engine!).

muswagon,

I don't believe that what you are seeing is a flaw or defect. I saw the same thing on mine and upon closer inspection I believe that is factory and intentional for balancing purposes.

I'll shoot a pick really quick for you, then I'm on my way to meet DirtDummy to discus these Trucks and maybe give a shot at running the one that still runs.

Jack

[muswagon]

thanks Midmadn.

[midmadn]

Here is the pic. Sorry if this isn't what you were talking about. I just thought it might be where I thought it was a chunk missing and then determined that it must be designed that way for balancing.

http://www.faxonwell.com/images/crank.jpg

Jack

[jhnyblz]

the engine never even got hot to the touch and it was about 40° outside so i am having trouble with the heat idea

but i could be wrong

and if it was running hot at those rich settings with fuel coming out of the exhaust then there is something else wrong

[muswagon]

Wow, that is exactly what I was talking about! OK, so I feel a little more relaxed now, thanks man! I guess that's what TTR calls "balanced and blueprinted"!!!:D

I need to pick up a camera, I would like to show you the nick in the connecting rod, to see if it is something I should worry about.

[muswagon]

jhnyblz, I dont knwo alot about nitro motors (ok, I know nothing!!) but the colour of the sleeve in that picture looks like a burnt valve in real car, caused by a lean fuel mixture. What kind of fuel did you use (% nitro and % oil), and where did you have your high speed needle set?

Again, in comparison to real cars, I have seen real motors burn valves and warp heads before you would even know something is wrong according to the temp gauge.

[midmadn]

I went to Hobbytown today and chatted with the owner and Dirt Dummy for quite a while. Nicer folks you will never meet. :)

Dirt Dummy ran a couple of Tanks through my Brothers. I'll let him fill you in on what his thoughts are.

I'm stuck on the blown up one until atleast Wednesday, when Ace is open.

I got curious and slipped the Piston and Sleeve out to see if I could figure out why mine failed. The Line-Up Pin for the Ring is know where to be found. The Ring turned 180 degrees before it finally caught in a Port and busted the Piston and Ring.

I wish someone could offer some real advice that was helpful to get my Brothers running right. I would just check in to getting mine fixed and keep it. I'm gonna start a new Thread to see who is happy and if they could pretty, pretty please tell us their settings and Fuel used.

Jack

[hooligan]

midmadn> that is exacly what i said what happened to a friend of nine.
the line up pin for the ring went gone and the ring moved and whooshed with the part that closes together over a port.

must be a warranty case.

[BUTTY]

hi everybody ,reading all the post`s what a lot of thought going on about the ek 4, i think it`s good , bad &ugly so far ,i have not recieved my new piston & liner yet,bad news for me ,can somebody tell me what to look for in more detail about the line up pin for the ring as i think this is what happened to mine , the ring has moved &opened up by the port`s, when my part`s turn up i will look for this pin &makesure it is there , i am not used to two stroke`s only big smelly diesel`s

[compliantguy]

I've been reading this post since last week and have found that there a lot of problems with the EK4. I am not new to Nitro RCs or Large Scale RCs, but I can tell you that I have many more problems with my EK4 than any other RC that I've owned. I have only been able to get 7 tanks of Cool Power 30% through it and have had nothing but problems with the carburetor. When I disassembled the carburetor I found that the low idle need was binding inside of the carburetor slide. It doesn't allow the needle to screw out once it is screwed in. I'm going to have to get a replacement carburetor. The exhaust header was also leaking, but I fixed it by using Orange Permatex High Temp RTV on the header gasket.
Also, for some strange reason my new JR DZ8550 (188 oz.in. torque, Digital, Dual BB, Metal Gear) steering servo stripped today! I am using the same servo for the throttle/brake, and it is also making binding noises (not the usual noise that digital servos make). Unusual, but maybe it is a manufacturer defect from JR, which I find hard to believe because all of my other JR equipment works flawlessly!
I have thread locked every screw on the truck so fortunately nothing has come loose. This much is certain, I had a fully customized Tmaxx with an OS .21 RG and it didn't give me near the problems that this has!! I only wish that I hadn't sold it!! I also have a Monster X 4WD 1/5th scale Monster Truck with a Zenoah G230RC that has run a lot better. I really had high hopes for the EK4, but once I replace the carburetor, I am going to sell it. I hope for everyone else, that these are just early design problems, but I am not going to wait.:(

[BigDaddy550]

Ok guys just got done running quite a few tanks through my ek-4 today and no problems at all!! I am enjoying it soo much! And for those that arent just stick in there. I had the same problems and stuff when I first got my tmaxx but after a while you will get over them and really enjoy your truck. This thing is too sweet to just give up on. I live out in the country where I need big displacement engines (found that out after getting the tmaxx) and was thrilled with a .70 monster truck so I had to get it. The ek4 is an excellent truck, I've had nothing but good luck with mine. I just hope you guys will stick with it and give it another chance. Good Luck!

[RCCARTMAN]

I was running my EK4 today and an awful grinding noise started from around the engine or spool, so I stopped it immediately and I am going to check the engine tonight. Wish me luck. I hope to God its not the engine. It really would make me mad to have used so much time breaking the truck in to have to go with a new motor, unless I decided to put a new one (different) in.

[nascarfreak88]

Hows it do in the snow???? i thought that thing would be killer in snow, giving it dosen't have the traction, and stick on some paddles on it and it could probibly tow you on a sled...... but stillit would have to be sick!! my RS4 MT dose alright and i still need to take the maxx out...... so any of you lucky farts out there played with it in the white powder yet??????

[RCCARTMAN]

I hope mine is alright, because the wind chill here is cold, and snow may be around the corner.

[Dirt Dummy]

Originally posted by midmadn
I went to Hobbytown today and chatted with the owner and Dirt Dummy for quite a while. Nicer folks you will never meet. :)

Dirt Dummy ran a couple of Tanks through my Brothers. I'll let him fill you in on what his thoughts are.

I'm stuck on the blown up one until atleast Wednesday, when Ace is open.

I got curious and slipped the Piston and Sleeve out to see if I could figure out why mine failed. The Line-Up Pin for the Ring is know where to be found. The Ring turned 180 degrees before it finally caught in a Port and busted the Piston and Ring.

I wish someone could offer some real advice that was helpful to get my Brothers running right. I would just check in to getting mine fixed and keep it. I'm gonna start a new Thread to see who is happy and if they could pretty, pretty please tell us their settings and Fuel used.

Jack I worked on mids brothers ek4! It has a gal of fuel run tru it. I think it needs to be run more, to be fully broke in. At least another gallon. (if it doesn"t blow a piston like mids) The high end tuned in good at 2 turns out! The bottom end never did, It seemed to be too rich. Leaned out the bottom to the point of stalling, no diff. Complaint guy said he had problems with the carb, I think this one does. The starting drive is a peice of ---- ! Brass bushing wore out after one gallon, Because you can"t get the shaft on it straight. If i owned one, I would have a flywheel made with a groove made in it, And start it with a belt and a sullivan starter. Like i do my rc boats. I did see the truck rip one healthy wheel stand, wich got my blood flowin! Don't get me wrong, I think its a good concept. But it got released with a lot of issues! Lets see what ace has to say wed morning! I know one thing, I am shure glad i don"t work foa ace answering phones!!!!

[muswagon]

Well, I think that the nick in my connecting rod is from the one way bearing assembly when my starter shaft broke. I found a small shaving from it in the crankcase, good part is the engine wasnt tuned over after that. Will I need a new connecting rod? The nick is on edge of the rod just above where the lower journal stops. Everything is still tight, so I think I might be OK (keep in mind this is my first nitro, opinions please!:D).

When I get a new starter shaft, thinking about either welding on a 1/4" drive universal joint from a socket set to the starter drive cup, then I can just use an extension and chuck it into my drill. Either that, or weld on small socket and chuck one of those flexible extensions into my drill. I dont know, just some ideas, cuz the stock system sucks:D

[RCCARTMAN]

Help! I ripped my engine open and as soon as I took off the head, I noticed specs of debris... I immediately thought "Oh no my engines toast!", then I noticed the same debris on the inside is the same debris on the chassis. Apparently the head and manifold has sucha gap between themselves and the crankcase that debris was able to enter my engine. As soon as I noticed the change in performance I stopped running the truck. QUESTION: Is my engine still runable?... Can I clean it out? HOW? WITH WHAT? It appears to only have mild abrasions and still has loads of compression. What should I do? PLEASE HELP!

[midmadn]

muswagon,

I know you don't want to hear this, but I feel you will loose that Engine. If you noticed the ConRod is highly polished and has no sharp edges to speak of. One little scratch is enough to cause the Rod to fracture and fail taking out the whole engine.
They don't go through the trouble of polishing it to make it look pretty. Its a known fact that pours, scratches, casting lines and yes knicks will cause a Rod to fail. Especially in a H.P. Nitro Engine.


RCCARTMAN,

Hope your Engine is OK.

If not, Join the crowd. :( If you look in the Heli section at AceHobbies, Dirt Dummy put a post asking about the EK4 and specifically the Pro .70.

The Heli guys said its an OK Engine if you don't wind it up or abuse it. Seems like it just is not going to make it in a Truck where it can freewheel and rev out. IMHO.

Lets see what TTR says.

To the defenders - No offense meant here but - Don't tell me how great yours is running. You could be shooting yourself in the foot. ;)

Jack

[BigDaddy550]

Dude, its not like TTR designs a vehicle and doesnt do any testing or anything. Its not like their going to put an engine in a truck of theirs that isnt suited for the operation. Thats kinda like what you said about the con rod and polishing..they don't just polish it to make it pretty. One difference between the heli and this engine is that the carb is smaller which may help to overrevving? Another thing is that we are only hearing from a small portion of people with the truck. If you remember back with the Tmaxx, a lot of people had crank bearing failure but a lot of them didnt either. Its just like what hooligan said, bad news spreads worse than good. Good luck with yours man!

RC

[RCCARTMAN]

Man I am really worried. If this is the case, I am going back to shop, returning the engine, and using the credit toward another engine(NOT THUNDER TIGER). HEY HELI GUYS!!!.... What are the main manufacturers of heli engines?

[Dirt Dummy]

Originally posted by RCCARTMAN
Man I am really worried. If this is the case, I am going back to shop, returning the engine, and using the credit toward another engine(NOT THUNDER TIGER). HEY HELI GUYS!!!.... What are the main manufacturers of heli engines? O.S The problem is the cranks on the os 61 and 91, are to big to except the ek4 clutch and flywheel! TT took there pro.70 heli motor and made a crank with a piolt shaft

[midmadn]

DUDE,

Are you reading these threads? You are probably next. X

What I would give for something as simple as a Crank Bearing failure. Good quality bearings are cheap.

Thats my whole concern. Where do we turn? What Engine can we replace this sorry P.O.S. with? We all bought this Truck for its powerplant alone. Without a good Pro .70 Engine, we bought nothing. Got it. The Truck is nothing without the Engine.
If it were a matter of just throwing more cash at it, I would have my wallet out. What Engine will fit? Who makes an aftermarket Piston that will hold a line-up pin? 3 line up pin failures in one thread. What Carb do I buy so I can have the pleasure of jumping up and down on the sorry P.O.S. one that came on the EK4? I'm sure their is probably a good Carb out there.

I have had Nitro Trucks and have had lots of problems. None of them are trouble free. I went through many sets of Gears with my Nitro Crusher before I replaced them with hardened steel Gears from an Inferno or Burns.
I'm not new to dissapointments and failures. I'm just new to not knowing where to turn and feeling stuck.


Jack

P.S. More people are likely to make light of problems due to embarassment from a bad choice they made. Look at my Poll. People who don't even own the Truck are speaking up to say how great it is. The people that haven't experienced major problems yet are saying how great it is with only 3/4 of a gallon burned. Go out and blow that sucker up. Its going to happen. Where are all of these people in these threads that are having major Engine problems. They are ashamed or in fear of being attacked by the 1 or 2 DUDES that is still running after only 3/4 of a gallon.

I will drop this, when people stop jumping on me for showing my concern with all of the problems. I was simply addressing muswagon and RCCARTMANS post. I'm sorry if my opinions differ from yours.
If you feel you got your moneys worth, their is no need to defend your purchase to me.

I feel like I have been RAPED, BEATEN and left for DEAD. :D
Just kidding. lol

[muswagon]

Thanks for the heads up Midmadn. I think I will try for warranty, if that fails, I will replace the connecting rod and starter shaft. I am actually really enjoying taking this thing apart, my learing curve is straight up right now. Which brings me to my next question.....The connecting rod....How do you remove one? I am stuck in a chicken and egg quandry. Does the sleeve have to come out first, to allow for movement of the rod off of the crankshaft? I really appreciate all teh help guys.

Midmadn, I am feeling more and more like an ***** for bashing on you a while back there, I really appreciate the help man, you got class!

[Dirt Dummy]

Originally posted by muswagon
Thanks for the heads up Midmadn. I think I will try for warranty, if that fails, I will replace the connecting rod and starter shaft. I am actually really enjoying taking this thing apart, my learing curve is straight up right now. Which brings me to my next question.....The connecting rod....How do you remove one? I am stuck in a chicken and egg quandry. Does the sleeve have to come out first, to allow for movement of the rod off of the crankshaft? I really appreciate all teh help guys.

Midmadn, I am feeling more and more like an ***** for bashing on you a while back there, I really appreciate the help man, you got class! Yes remove the sleeve first! Take note to how it is located in the block.

[midmadn]

Thanks muswagon. It means a lot to me. I like helping people, even if they did dis me. lol :D

1,000,000 enemies are worth nothing, but one friend is priceless. :)

You have to remove the sleeve. If you take a solid plastic object that will fit in the cylinder and position it so it slightly catches in one of the ports, you can just rotate the Crank by hand and the Piston will push the sleeve up and out. Don't stick it too far in the port or it will hang up and not let you turn the Engine to push the sleeve up and out. Also, go easy on it. If it takes more than just a little effort, find another way. Don't force it.

NOTE: jhnyblz, I don't think yours is going to come out that easy. You might be better off leaving well enough alone.

Once you remove the sleeve, the Rod will come off of the Crank with the Crank all of the way down and a slight turning and pulling on the bottom of the Rod. No force is required, it will come easily once you get it right.

Check the little line up pin in the Piston Ring Gap and let us know if it seems like its solid or is it floppy or missing?

Thanks - Jack

P.S. Also like Dirt Dummy suggested, make note of the orientation. Their is a line up pin and a notch for the Cylinder on top facing toward the clutch.
When the Piston goes back in, it can go in the right way or 180 degrees wrong. Don't put it in wrong. The Ring Gap goes towards the Clutch as well, but slightly off centered towards the Ehaust side. Almost facing the Throttle Servo if the Engine was mounted in the Truck. In that orientation, the Ring Gap falls between 2 of the Ports, If you put it in 180 degrees out, the Ring Gap would fall in the opening of a port and it wouldn't last long. Probably wouldn't even get it started once.

Of course, if your line up pin decides to take a lunch break, you are screwed anyways. ;)

Jack

[hooligan]

i am so so glad mine is still running but i am kind of worried here.
i allready saw 3 pistons where the line up pin failed and caused the ring to shift with the end result as in midmadn's pictures.
i am really looking for ttr's reaction to this when so many engines will fail.
i also looked into another engine and i dont mind putting in a decent .60 engine and loose .10 on the .70 but almost any engine you look into is bigger in size or indeed the cranck is bigger not allowing you to place your flywheel.

not even mentioning how will you start the engine ????

time will tell.
its a shame, the concept of the big engine on a MT is great and the wheelys are priceless, but to ruin an engine in a few weeks ?
naah fun is away very fast then:(

[jhnyblz]

midmadn->

is the reason you suspect my sleeve is going to give me difficulty is because of the heat.

I honestly am just looking for another engine and i am planning on sending mine to TT on Jan 8th when they arrive in their new office in Cali.

Any help from anyone on a possible new engine, would be greatly appreciated

But it has to be a beast I purchased this truck to beat the mess out of my boys .21 T-maxx so no wussy engines

Maybe if i get the .70 warrantied I will put it in my RS-4 and do some street car wheelies

[midmadn]

Originally posted by jhnyblz
midmadn->

is the reason you suspect my sleeve is going to give me difficulty is because of the heat.

I honestly am just looking for another engine and i am planning on sending mine to TT on Jan 8th when they arrive in their new office in Cali.

Any help from anyone on a possible new engine, would be greatly appreciated

But it has to be a beast I purchased this truck to beat the mess out of my boys .21 T-maxx so no wussy engines

Maybe if i get the .70 warrantied I will put it in my RS-4 and do some street car wheelies

Yes, it might give you trouble because it got so hot. Then again, it might pop out easier than one that didn't get hot. I would love to know if your line up pin has gone awol. I use a leg cut off of a Servo Arm to stick down in their and slide into a Port to make the Piston push the sleeve up out. Use the widest part of the leg to displace the force more evenly on the Piston.

The looking for another Engine thing is what gets me frustrated. Their doesn't seem to be anything available that will replace the Pro .70. We can't even throw more money at it to make it the beast we want it to be. :(

I will pour gas on the Truck and watch it burn before I will resort to putting a .21 in it. I'm not against .21's at all. We have a couple of Rex .21's that are insane and we love them. But We didn't get the EK4's to put a .21 in.

Jack

[jhnyblz]

midmadn->

I am at work now but will check on that line up pin for you later tonight

I have got the gas and the match i say we burn these trucks

I am going to stick with the RS-4 if i have anymore problems with this truck

[muswagon]

I am willing to buy someone's used EK4 with or without the paper weight we call the engine. Let me know.

[midmadn]

muswagon,

You want to deprive us of the only excitement the EK4 is going to bring us, (Watching that sucker burn)? lol

Jack

[muswagon]

hahahah! Good one.

Happy New Year everyone!

[muswagon]

Took out the sleeve and piston. Man, all that stuff I have read about in RcNitro, kinda fun. Well, seems there are two light scratches on the piston. Again, newbie questions, do I need a new piston and sleeve? There are no scratches on sleeve that I can see, but it would dumb to replace one without the other right?

Midmadn, the line up pin for the ring is there. It doesnt stick out too far, but I guess it's enough when the ring is compressed. Speaking of the ring, how would one get the ring compressed to fit the piston back into the sleeve?

[BigDaddy550]

Today I finished up running 1 gallon through my truck. I had to drive it around 2 wheel drive most of the day because one of the set screws on the front driveshaft that holds the drive pin in(closest to wheel) came out even though I loc-tited it and lost the pin and the universal somewhere in the yard. I was on my last tank of fuel and my left front tire caught a chair leg and broke the two steering arms that are mounted on each post. Does anybody know where he best place to get those couple things are?? Thanks

RC

[muswagon]

Those are EB4 buggy pieces, so anywhere that you can buy EB4 parts.

[BigDaddy550]

Thanks muswagon. I think I'll be getting them from autohaus where I got my truck. Thanks again

RC

[midmadn]

Originally posted by muswagon
Took out the sleeve and piston. Man, all that stuff I have read about in RcNitro, kinda fun. Well, seems there are two light scratches on the piston. Again, newbie questions, do I need a new piston and sleeve? There are no scratches on sleeve that I can see, but it would dumb to replace one without the other right?

Midmadn, the line up pin for the ring is there. It doesnt stick out too far, but I guess it's enough when the ring is compressed. Speaking of the ring, how would one get the ring compressed to fit the piston back into the sleeve?

Sounds like your Piston and Sleeve are fine. A couple of light scratches on the Piston wouldn't worry me.
I want to make a wise crack here about how long it needs to last, but I will give it a rest. :D

The Sleeve has a slight taper in the bottom of it that if you carefully line up the ring and carefully slide the cylinder down, it should start right in and compress it self. Don't twist the cylinder or you could turn the ring. A very slight wobbling motion with a slight amount of pressure should get it started in. Be patient and sure. If in doubt, whip it out, (NO, not that) and do it again.

Jack

[nitro tiger]

the set screws i posted last night you can get them at home depot 5mm 50cents

[RCCARTMAN]

Hey guys looking for a KICKA$$ engine to replace the crappy stock one... YS .80H Heli engine 2.8 HP and RPM range 2000-26000. I am ordering one. $240 at my local shop.

[Dirt Dummy]

Originally posted by RCCARTMAN
Hey guys looking for a KICKA$$ engine to replace the crappy stock one... YS .80H Heli engine 2.8 HP and RPM range 2000-26000. I am ordering one. $240 at my local shop. How you going to mount a flywheel and clutch on that 5/16 threaded crank? And how will you start it?

[midmadn]

and how are you going to keep it from frying? Nobody is going to be making a Head for the YS80.

I'm curious to see how it goes, though. We need some options. Not trying to deter you. Just making sure your considering all of the possibillities.

The starting part I think can be accomplished with a larger flywheel or turning the outside edge of the flywheel smooth and making a press on extension to make it larger.

Jack

[Dirt Dummy]

Like jack said i am not trying t o piss on your fire! You could have a machine shop make a flyweel with a groove, and start it with a belt. Just like we start inboard rc boat motors. But the clutch and clutch bell are the real problem! the tt .70 heli motor comes with 5/16 threads. I would assume the ys .80 is the same. You would have to get a cluch bell and shoes made. Another thing about the heat problem, All heli flywheels have a fan built on to the flywheel. And usally a shroud around the motor! You could pull it off but the cost! origanal truck $500, YS 80 $240, Machine shop cost $200 ! The look on your face when it seizes PRICELESS! LOL :eek:

[muswagon]

If we are going to try something radical, why not a cheap Heli motor like a GMS .76? It has close to the same specs as the TTR .70, and actual a bit more HP. Not sure about the torque rating, but even it is less who cares!

I can buy that motor for $139 Canadian dollars, which makes that just about free in American dollars:D Just a thought before anymore engines get blown up, start cheap.

[midmadn]

If I was going to go through the work of doing this, I would first go to the Heli guys and see what Engine is indestructible. I think it would need that kind of reputation to hold up in a Truck where it will see high RPM's and such varying loads. It will also need to be able to handle higher temps as AutoHauss won't have a COOL Head for it.

Jack

[midmadn]

Maybe we can get WISECO to make a forged Piston with Ring for the TTR .70. :D

Then all we would need is the COOL Head from Autohauss and a good Carburetor so I could jump up and down on that sorry piece of **** that came on it. :D

Jack

[justmy2cents]

Well, before Christmas I was going to get one of these monsters but I chickened out and got an Ofna MBX 1/8 scale buggy instead, and I must say after reading all the problems with the ek4 I am thrilled that I didn't get one.

I'll wait until they get the bugs worked out. Then they will be great trucks. I want to do wheelies but I can't afford to be blowing engines all the time (I wouldn't have any money left for the other 5 rc trucks I have):D

[PITSTAIN RC]

OK Guys I am going to give it a try here please correct me if i am wrong at any point, this way we can narrow down how to run this motor.

I have Blown one already (the Con Rod Blew up and took out the piston with it)

this is a ringed engine, being similar to a real car motor.

the materials are (i think), alluminum for the piston and conrod, and a steel piston ring and steel sleeve.

our normal truck engines are usually a .15 to .21 ABC engine

Alluminum piston and rod, chromed steel sleeve with taper instead of using the ring.

The way to run a ABC is to get it up to 200-230 F temp so the sleeve and piston expand properly to have the proper pinch (compression) so it runs smooth.

These Ringed Pro .70's Already have the proper compression at room temperature, all that any heat is needed for is to keep the plug going.

maybe at some temp the piston expands enough to seize the engine and therefore snap the Con Rod.

We need info on the optimum temp to run this thing.

I have just recieved a brand new TTR Pro .70 Heli engine, and have installed the Crankshaft, Backplate and Carbuerator from the dead one, i have not even started it yet, i am a bit scared to do so.

so until i hear some SOLID info on whats up with the Pro .70
I'll just breakin my new T-maxx which is running fine.

[Dirt Dummy]

Originally posted by PITSTAIN RC
OK Guys I am going to give it a try here please correct me if i am wrong at any point, this way we can narrow down how to run this motor.

I have Blown one already (the Con Rod Blew up and took out the piston with it)

this is a ringed engine, being similar to a real car motor.

the materials are (i think), alluminum for the piston and conrod, and a steel piston ring and steel sleeve.

our normal truck engines are usually a .15 to .21 ABC engine

Alluminum piston and rod, chromed steel sleeve with taper instead of using the ring.

The way to run a ABC is to get it up to 200-230 F temp so the sleeve and piston expand properly to have the proper pinch (compression) so it runs smooth.

These Ringed Pro .70's Already have the proper compression at room temperature, all that any heat is needed for is to keep the plug going.

maybe at some temp the piston expands enough to seize the engine and therefore snap the Con Rod.

We need info on the optimum temp to run this thing.

I have just recieved a brand new TTR Pro .70 Heli engine, and have installed the Crankshaft, Backplate and Carbuerator from the dead one, i have not even started it yet, i am a bit scared to do so.

so until i hear some SOLID info on whats up with the Pro .70
I'll just breakin my new T-maxx which is running fine. If i was you i would break that motor in on a motor stand with a plane prop! That s how heli guys do it. Runs cooler and at a constant rpm. I would run 2 gal of fuel thru it this way. Check out old pharts thread on the monster truck page. I think its called breaking in ek4 motot. He has picks of his stand. I have heard that it takes 2 gal to properly break in a ringed motor

[midmadn]

But how do you attach the Prop?

[muswagon]

With all of that left over loctite!

:D

Good question. I think that is the route I will take if someone finds a way to attach the prop. We will beat this pro .70 yet boys!!!

[Dirt Dummy]

Originally posted by midmadn
But how do you attach the Prop? He has the heli crank that came with the heli motor he got. he would have to put it back in! I am going to break in the tt 70 heli motor i have, that way. Then throw it in a truck and see what happens. For yours jack, Iam shure you could figure out a way to get a prop on the truck crank.

[PITSTAIN RC]

Thanks for the input Mr. Dummy :)

Unfortunatley I don't have a test stand or any equivalent.

Brandon at Ace told me he breaks in his engines on a test stand also, he said if i do it in the truck to keep it at about 1/4 throttle so i setup my radio's throw on the throttle to only open to 1/4 max throttle, so ill just start her up and floor it!! hehe

Tell me how it goes Dirt, good luck.

Ian

[Dirt Dummy]

Originally posted by PITSTAIN RC
Thanks for the input Mr. Dummy :)

Unfortunatley I don't have a test stand or any equivalent.

Brandon at Ace told me he breaks in his engines on a test stand also, he said if i do it in the truck to keep it at about 1/4 throttle so i setup my radio's throw on the throttle to only open to 1/4 max throttle, so ill just start her up and floor it!! hehe

Tell me how it goes Dirt, good luck.

Ian MR PISS STAIN :D Its not hard to make an engine stand! Check out old pharts post he has pictures. I think this is the only way to break it in right!

To MR JACK and MR MUSWAGON You can buy props with no hole in them, and drill it out to the crank size. Or you can invest in a tt .70 heli crank and prop washer. Jack iwould let you use my crank if you or your brother are intrestead!

[RCCARTMAN]

I don't know about you guys, but I don't have a problem with the head temperature getting too hot. I run very rich, and only get 4 minutes per tank, but its worth it. It screams and running full throttle? Yeah right, only on an open field. I am afraid of this thing. My piston sleeve and piston have no abrasions. I had to buy some gasket material and cut them to size for the head nad manifold, where the debris was capable of entering the engine. I took th back plate off and cleans the engine out. Some particles were in the bottom and came out with ease. Running with better compression than before, and is a force to be reckoned with. The only guys locally that are willing to go head to head are those with Ek4's. I have been lucky thus far. My problems haven't been so severe.

[UP2NOGD]

Any chance of getting those carb settings?? Fuel? Engine Temps!
Thanks!

JJ

[RCCARTMAN]

I am 3 1/4 top end, stock on low and mid range, average temp 160 F (with 15%nitro).

[RCCARTMAN]

Guys I think my break in is going so well because I haven't used high nitro yet. I am going to complete the break in cycle of the engine with 15% nitro (Cool Power) with 18% oil, and then I'll go up to 30% nitro, if I decide to keep this engine. By the way my LHS owner has a rig that I can run the engine with, just like the stock engine, starter and all. The only things different would be the carb. It would be like the regular heli carb with rotary acceleration, and he will break it in on a stand for me (with purchase of the fuel as well). I am gonna consider it, just need more info on the engine specs from the manufacturer to see if the info I was given was legit.

[UP2NOGD]

Thanks for the Info! I went straight for the 30% Cool Power for the extra Oil! Somewhere in this thread they posted the higher nitro would make the engine run cooler? Who knows anymore - boy has the EK4 sent the whos who of the nitro world reeling or what?? I guess this is why they only let us play with ABC engines before? Hmmmmmm!

JJ

[nitro tiger]

HEY GUY'S WENT OUT WITH THE EK4 TODAY HAD A GOOD DAY!!
RAN IT REALLY RICH AS WE KNOW WE HAVE TO. I AM 3 TURNS OPEN ON TOP AND THIS THING IS STILL RUNNING HOT IT IS 40 DEGRESS HERE AND STILL CAN'T GET THIS THING TO RUN COOL. IT DID RUN WELL LEANED OUT THE BOTTON A LITTLE AND MAN THE FRONT WHEEL JUST CAME RIGHT UP FROM THE START. IT'S PRETTY NICE WHEN GOING 10 TO 15MPH PUNCH IT AND THE THING COMES RIGHT UP. I KNOW IN THE SUMMER THIS IS GOING TO BE A PROBLEM I HOPE THE HEAD COMES OUT SOON BUT I FEEL IT'S NOT GOING TO BE ENOUGH. RCCARTMAN YOURS IS RUNNING 160 AT 3 1/4 OPEN FOR TOP END MAYBE I WILL TRY ANOTHER 1/4 OPEN TOMMROW. I DID RUN 2.5 OPEN IT SCREAMS BUT SO DOES THE TEMP NO THANKS I RUN RICH. I WILL LET YOU KNOW HOW IT GOES TOMMROW WHEN I RUN IT AGAIN.

[muswagon]

Hey Dirty Dummy, if you happen to come across a starter shaft for the Pro .70 please let me know. I am desperate, and it sounds like it will be awhile for these parts to come out from Ace. I also need a connecting rod, but I can get that here. Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated.

As per what Midmadn said, I may take the broken shaft to a machine shop and see and they can make me a whole bunch of 'em.

[Dirt Dummy]

Originally posted by muswagon
Hey Dirty Dummy, if you happen to come across a starter shaft for the Pro .70 please let me know. I am desperate, and it sounds like it will be awhile for these parts to come out from Ace. I also need a connecting rod, but I can get that here. Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated.

As per what Midmadn said, I may take the broken shaft to a machine shop and see and they can make me a whole bunch of 'em.
Sorry pal we have no shaft. When you get one made see if they can make the dia. bigger! Also mabey they can machine it out for a regular bearing instead of the brass bushing

[RB Maxx]

Hi
I am just about to recivw my EK-4.
My lhs have just breaked in the EK-4 and they used
RB Concept fuel 25% with no problems at all.
I think i am going to try the same.
Have anyone else tried this fuel?

Happy New Year from Norway.

[RCCARTMAN]

I am really starting to love this truck, but I must admit, I was ready to give up on it when problems arose. It is starting to pay off.

[BigDaddy550]

I am glad that everyone is getting most of their problems worked out and deciding to stick with the truck. At first I was having trouble with mine, bearing kept slipping (hairdryer does the trick) but stuck with it and its really payed off. I never drove a truck so power and mean as the ek-4. I have one gallon through the engine and its running around 220 or so. Im waiting for some steering parts and hopefully gonna be going for the weekend. Good luck guys.

RC

[RCCARTMAN]

I might just put a Saito 160 in my Ek4 and call it a day. HAHA If I could I would, but I can't so I won't, or atleast, not yet???HMMMM:D

[ducklake1]

So the hair dryer worked.
That's what i have to use, too cold.

[Techspert]

Just got my EK-4 yesterday. OKAY...to do list:
- any and all metal-to-metal components need to be loctited
- manifold needs to be sealed with orange sealant stuff
- loctite engine head bolts
- ??? rear diff ... should I do anything to prevent it from failing on me ???

any other suggestions?

Also, I bought a Proline 350 body. How do I get the backend to work with the factory posts? They're too wide to fit the Proline body.

[blackjack172]

autohause is coming out with a bunch of trick parts for the EK4
including body posts that will fit the proline bodies;)

[BUTTY]

hi guy`s , ENGINE REPORT , I WENT BACK INTO MY LHS & I AM GETTING A NEW ENGINE EITHER TOMORROW OR SAT , WHILE I WAS IN THE SHOP I LOOKED AT THE OLD ENGINE IN A BIT MORE DETAIL & FOUND THE PIN ON THE PISTON WAS STILL THERE ALTHOUGH IT WAS NOT FLUSH WITH THE PISTON , THE RING ON THE SIDE WERE IT WAS NOT BROKEN HAS A TAPER ON IT (TAPER GOING FROM OUTSIDE TO INNER) I AM THINKING THIS MAY HAVE RODE OVER THE PIN , ANYBODY ELSE NOTICED THIS? I MAY BE WRONG ABOUT THIS RING BUT NORMAL RINGS ARE SQUARE CUT,
HAPPY MOTORING

[UP2NOGD]

I don't think it is the diff as much as the grub screws that hold the drive cups in place -- there are 3 or 4 - if these come out many problems can occur -- also make sure you loctite the grub screws on the starter piece, it has 2ea - Good Luck!!

JJ

[RCCARTMAN]

I have done been getting the front end to dive while the back raises, during my donut attempts. Try it, its pretty cool. I especially liked the one time I got it to do a spin on the front tires by slamming break / gas while in a turn. Nose stand! :p

[midmadn]

Originally posted by BUTTY
hi guy`s , ENGINE REPORT , I WENT BACK INTO MY LHS & I AM GETTING A NEW ENGINE EITHER TOMORROW OR SAT.

Please update when you get your Engine. That is the route I would like to take but I was told TTR wouldn't have an Engine until the middle of the month or later.

Thanks - Jack

[RB Maxx]

I just got an E-Mail from Autohausrc.
Here it goes:We were running a little rich at 255 Deg with the stock head, Dynamite
MC9, Blue Thunder 20%. We
changed the head ( 5 minutes) and nothing else and ran 111 deg. All
checks were at the glow plug. The stock head ran hottest
at the glow plug, ours ran hottest on the edges of the head (140 Deg).
Which means we are really taking heat away from the cylinder.


Patrick
:D :D :D :D

[hooligan]

jack> do you get a full refund or new engine for yours ? and did your lhs arrange it or did you contact ttr directly ?

gerard.

[midmadn]

Neither,
My LHS was kind enough to offer me $270.00 credit for it. We paid them $540.00

I gladly declined and am seeing if I can get parts or an Engine.

I still wish I could just start having luck with one of them and fall in love, then apologize for all of my whining.

BUT, we have been trying to get my Brothers going for the last 2 hours. I have never in my life been so baffled with an Engine.

We tried everything, less fuel, more fuel, 5 different glow plugs, faster drill. Nothing will make it run.

At first it started as normal and we headed out the garage door, before we got out the door it just went kaput. I know thats an everyday occurence with these little Nitro Engines, but it did it kind of funny.

Now no matter what we throw at it or how many curse words we use it just won't run.

We tried priming it till it was spitting fuel out the exhaust, then we pulled the glow plug, spun it over with a finger over the whole to clean it out, put a new working glow plug in, spin it, nothing, prime it, nothing, pull the fuel line and spin it, nothing. Clean it again, nothing. I've never had an Engine that you couldn't get to fire, even with a wrong adjustment, if you give it fuel and it doesn't fire, you take the fuel away until it fires.

We know it has fire as our Glow Charger has a meter. It lights the plugs right up.

We have 2 Monster Pirates coming tomorrow, so at least we can go out and have a little fun.

Maybe the EK4's should be cleaned up and put on display. They sure look BAD. :rolleyes:

Jack

[RCCARTMAN]

Hey midmadn, how is the compression of the engine? I had to put some gaskets (homemade) in mine because there was a 1/32" air gap between the head and the case when the screws were drawn all of the way down. Mine has a ton of compression now, and it takes the highest torque setting on my drill to start my truck now. I got the gasket material at my car parts store.

[PITSTAIN RC]

geez man sorry to hear your having troubles still, i havent even started mine up again with the new engine.

I have a monster pirate also is real nice BUT the front upper suspension mounts are made out of glass so be careful not to clip any shrubs or trees or empty soda cans, the mounts arent too strong.

[midmadn]

I thought it seemed fine but my Brother keeps saying it is down. I'm starting to think He is right.

Can you clarify on the gasket and the 1/32 gap. We did pull the head and their was the one shim that comes stock on them. We poured a little fuel on top of the piston and it held it their. Didn't leak by.

But I think it is down. I just spun my little old O.S. .50 Heli and the Pro .70 does spin much easier.

Thanks - Jack

[RCCARTMAN]

MIDMADN just try the gasket material, its only $5 and takes about 15 minutes to make gaskets, for the head, and manifold. It may change everything for you. I did for me. WHEELIES with 15% @ 3 turns out on the high end. This after I put in the gaskets. Running perfectly now.

[fitoran]

Hey all those guys out there talking about the problems with there ek4`s and all. I know what the problem is. You get the truck and go out there and right off the back run the hell out of the engine. I wanted to do the same, with all that power at my finger. But I took it slow and run the engine really rich running 30 percent nitro and letting the truck stall alot. The only thing so far is the screws came out of the pipe so I got some new ones. I haven1t done any wheelies yet because i`m still running it rich for a long break in. 10 tanks so far. Next I`ll let it loose DRIVE SAFE. :p

[Techspert]

Originally posted by fitoran
Hey all those guys out there talking about the problems with there ek4`s and all. I know what the problem is. You get the truck and go out there and right off the back run the hell out of the engine. I wanted to do the same, with all that power at my finger. But I took it slow and run the engine really rich SAFE. :p

I somewhat agree Fiti, but those guys have some legitimate issues with their cars.
I just started breaking in mine and it's running really well so far. :D

The first initial start took a while though. I bought a 12volt starter (waste of money). I ended up going to a drill which works much better. One problem was the glow igniter not having enough juice. I then switched to my Ofna starter box for the glow igniter ports and !!POW!!, the engine kicked in and was humming. :eek:

My initial settings are a little more than 3 turns out for the high-end. I will not touch the low and middle needles until later. I also had the trim turned up on my remote to keep the idle a little high. My fuel choice is Blue Thunder 20%. I let the engine idle while sitting on the ground for 3 tankfulls. Afterwards, I crept the EK around my cul-de-sac and took temp measurments (214-229 degrees). While driving slowly, I would richen the high-end in 1/8th increments until the truck would almost cut off. I kept the settings really rich and continued to drive around slowly. I have run at least 8 tankfuls this way and will run about 4 more b4 I start to lean it out. I never gunned the EK accept accidently and the front end still KICKs UP!

Its amazing the power this thing has! I am barely 1/4 through my break-in and I notice the power already! My 1/8th Mugen doesn't seem close to the fun/power factor this EK-4 has.

Updates to follow...

[RCCARTMAN]

Hey fitoran I hope you are refering to me. My troubles have been design flaws, and problems with crappy parts of the truck. I think that alot of the engine problems might be from compression, the fuel, needle settings, and impatience to unleash the beast.

[BigDaddy550]

Here are some pics of mine:

http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbumPhoto.asp?userid=BigDaddy550&album_id=33204&image_id=8

Go here to see more pics: Pics of EK-4 (http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbum.asp?userid=BigDaddy550&album_id=33204)

[BUTTY]

fitoran , ithink nearly all the problems people are having with the ek4 are design prob`s , i can not believe the guy`s on here are stupid enough to rant the nut`s of these truck`s as soon as they start them , my case was no exception , i filled with fuel ,primed, turned engine over , without glow starter a few times & then started, ran for 1-2 minutes on tick over & then bang no more compression . i have now got my new engine today . i have now gone through 1 gallon of 10% glow fuel from model technics with no prob`s just on tick over , did not run it at all across the ground , hopefully now i can get on and enjoy this baby

happy motoring , martin

[RCCARTMAN]

my EK4 ran circles around my friends trucks. They are going to help me modify my Thunder Quake to take a 70 engine. This sould be sweet. The EK4 runs great with the TQ tires.

[Techspert]

RCCartman,

Does it appear that your ThunderQuake can take a .70 at all or is the space too tight? If someone makes a conversion, I'll get a Thunderquake just to run the .70.

I actually am looking forward to seeing if TTR will be making the .90Pro(BX) fit easily in the EK-4.


EK-4 + .90 = InSaNe!!!

[hooligan]

EK-4 + .90 = InSaNe!!!

.90 in an ek-4 is even more troubles you mean.
whish i could start an phat os heli engine when mounted in the ek-4.
then i would kiss all ttr engines goodbye forgood.

[BigDaddy550]

Hey, Can somebody help me out so I can post pics that I have on printroom into this thread? Thanks!

RC

[BUTTY]

got my baby running today , ran really well , just two minor faults, the glow plug came loose , so stalling the engine , & the exhaust gasket blew out , lost one screw , but apart from that absolutely brilliant hours of fun . patience is a virtue i have waited nearly 6 weeks to get to this stage & i am so pleased i did , all you guy`s out there having a few prob`s hang on in there it`s worth it in the end

happy motoring , martin

[RCCARTMAN]

Most .90 engine specs aren't better than the .70, with the only difference being to displacement. YS 80H is supposedly beefier in RPM range and HP than the OS .90 and 1.20. The rpm range actually decreases in the larger engines, and as far as the gearing goes, there is only so far you can gear the truck down. I just wish they would come out with an .70 sized engine or bigger with higher RPM (42,000 like the 21 sized engines) and with a ton more HP. Could you imagine and engine with .70 displacement(or bigger), 3 HP @ 16,000/ maxing out at 6 HP (or more), and RPM ranges comparable to the high revving 21's or even the brushless electric motors. TOO SWEET. I should take some engineering classes to see if I can design an engine with these specs. Imagine RC cars that can go faster than any other actual land vehicle. I'd love to have it, even though I'd crash it or ruin it in the first five minutes. We also need to desing a better cooling system. Pipe dreams, Pipe dreams. HAHA

[old phart]

Ducted fan engines and marine engines in those sizes (.90) already do what you ask :)

Adapting them for a r/c car would be the engineering trick.

[RCCARTMAN]

Old Phart I already inquired about them, but they are for jet like airplanes, not helis. They are for planes that travel over 100 mph and they are placed in the center of sometype of windtunnel within a planes hull. They operate at the specs I want, but it would be fried by the 2nd tank.

[EK4RACER1]

Ok boys...after a hard debate of whether or not to get the ek4...i decided to get it!!!!i was at my local hobby shop and didnt expect them to have it in stock, but they just got 2 in, one was sold, and the other one had my name written all over it!!!..my friends and i race monster pirates...we've done alot of mods to them and there a blast to play with, but now its time to step up!!!my friend is pissed off..that there was none in stock, cause hes going to get one also....and i know my other friend who reads this forum going to get one too, i can almost guarrantee it!!!!you know who you are!!!...
although a lot of negative things have come from ek4 first introduction, i believe those things can be worked out...im going to get the new cooling head from auto haus before i start breaking in...but are there any other tech tips before i run my truck??...besides the regular,, loctite all the metal to metal screws...did you guys truck come with the tires already glue??
has anyone ordered from autohausrc before???..i was wondering if any other mail order hobby store has alot of thunder tiger parts in stock...well thats it for now..RACE HARD OR GO HOME!!!!

[hooligan]

re glue the tyres or be prepared to see them fly :D

[Techspert]

Originally posted by EK4RACER1
truck??...besides the regular,, loctite all the metal to metal screws...

Speaking of metal-to-metal...make sure you loctite the 5mm GRUB screw that locks down the front and rear drive shafts. They will absolutely come out if you don't!!! It will appear as if you lost your front-wheel or rear-wheel drive if they pop out. Also, loctite the ball post screws on the hub carriers as they are prone to coming lose...

GUYS,

Does anyone with the EK-4 have an issue with the plastic throttle linkage control-end coming loose where it connects to the slide-carb linkage on the engine? The hole is too big and I had to squeeze the plastic to make a tighter fit.

[UP2NOGD]

Haven't had a prob with the carb -but I keep breaking servo control arms from those big tires!!! Hey has anybody checked the metal where the front shocks mount (upper)??? This is incredibly "SOFT" -- I bumped something last night and it bent back so I went to bend it back into place and could not believe how soft the metal is?? Does anyone know if the aluminum upgrade for the EB4 will replace this -- this will be a problem!

JJ

[BUTTY]

reference to your throttle problem , i think you will find there is a little ball joint type throttle control in one of the plastic bags it just pops onto the ball on the throttle , it took me ages to find mine i think it is attached to a plastic carrier with other little parts, i hope this helps

happy motoring , martin

[BigDaddy550]

I havn't had any problems with the carb piece that goes onto the ball. In fact, mine is so tight I couldn't hardly get it off. The servo arms that come with the truck suck!! I stripped 3 out within the first couple of minutes. I just took the arms that came with my servos I bought (Hitech) and they are much harder. Havn't even broke one of those yet. Good luck

[EK4RACER1]

thanks guys...the problem concering the servo arms that came with the kit could be solved by using after market servo arms....we like to run du bro super strength servo arms, they're a bit pricey, but worth it, we run those w/our monster pirates...i looked at the factory servo arms that come w/ the ttr ek4 and they look like junk...

[midmadn]

Are you guys putting the Metal Collars on your Servo Arms.

The Kit came with 2 - Metal Collars to help prevent stripping out the splines. They slide over the Round Splined portion and help to prevent it from spreading open and allowing it to strip.

Jack

P.S. If anyone would like a Pic of them, just hollar.

[hooligan]

midmadn is right, use the rings around the base of the horn to stop prevent slipping.
i personally had better results with the horns delivered with my servos then with the ttr ones.

on a sidenote, mine doesnt idle anymore grrrrrr. :mad:
and i got sick and tired of the slipping one way starter bearing so i replaced it with a new one.
the starter works like a dream now again, it hasnt slipped on me a single time anymore :)
now only if it would idle normally.............................

does anyone know the exact differences between the ttr pro.70 bx (r) in the ek4 and the actual pro.70 heli engine ?
i know the carb is smaller and i suppose the pin on the crank for the starter system isnt there on the heli one.
but the piston, sleeve etc ?

[midmadn]

Hooligan,

Is it idleing to low and stalling or is it Idleing up and revving out?

The 2 we have we couldn't get them to idle right at all. I swear they are pulling Air in by the starter drive. Theirs no seal at all in the starter drive assembly.

Jack

[BigDaddy550]

Isn't there a big o-ring on the starter assembly? When I had mine out I would have swore there was. Good luck

RC

[RCCARTMAN]

Does anyone know if the heads are out this week? I hope to have mine by friday, if so.

[BigDaddy550]

Also, does anyone know when we can get our updated starter assembly that was mentioned in that email fom ttr?

RC

[EK4RACER1]

hooligan,

Where are you getting your parts from,...there in europe or from here in the united states....how many starter assmeblies have you gone through,...your talking about the one way starter bearing right??....

Cooling heads!!!!....talked to Christian at autohausrc.com...they said they should have them by friday....so give him a call...i got mines on pre order already!!!!!

RACE HARD OR GO HOME!!!!!

[UP2NOGD]

rc,

yea I've had the rings on but I keep snapping the actual plastic that came with the servo (JR digitals) -- servos are plenty strong but the plastic that attaches keeps snapping ** on the other note - has anybody else checked the "metal" for the shock mounts - swear mine bends like thin alloy??? (this is the metal that attaches the top of the front shock)

Johnny

[RCCARTMAN]

tyr ofnas aluminum servo hornshttp://www.ofna.com/new/servhorn.html

[RCCARTMAN]

Shock tower aluminum is crappy. Buy some aluminum from a local dealer and make your own, its your best bet and is cheaper, if you have a file, drill, and something to polish it.:D

[hooligan]

midmadn>the only way i am getting it to keep running is by opening up the throttle so far that the clutch is allready engaged.
i am having serious doubts about an airleak at the starter too.
there is a lot of play on the starter axle that runs in the bushing.
i am looking tomorrow or the messing bushing can be replaced by a new or something better.
i have another pro70 heli engine coming in and i will try taking of the rear cap where the starter is and put the original heli cap on and then see what it does. (gonna start on the bench, on the flywheel with handheld starter)

i will get to the bottom of the idle problems no matter what it costs me !!!!

i bought this ****** for the insane power and I WILL HAVE INSANE POWER :D (and an steady idle god*amn)
i dont care what it costs me but i will find it out whats causing all those engines to run so bad.

gerard

[midmadn]

Originally posted by BigDaddy550
Isn't there a big o-ring on the starter assembly? When I had mine out I would have swore there was. Good luck

RC

Their might be an O-Ring on the outer housing, but their is nothing on the small shaft that the starter drive hooks to. I was tempted to force an o-ring onto it and slide the Collar in until it tightened the o-ring up against the housing, but that would have been a very temporary fix, if at all so I didn't bother.

Jack

[Techspert]

This is my EK-4:

I'm working on painting a Proline-350 body for it...


http://www.pixhost.com/pixr/rkendrick/techspertek4.jpg

[dc]

The shock mt is very week and the servo saver top plate, bent mine when it found my fence upgraded it all to ergal parts I'm waiting for a shock mt then I'll start on the rear. My truck wont ideal very long it will die when I take the temp.More smoke than a smoke generator.I'll try to get pics.

dave doing it EK4 style

[BigDaddy550]

I'm going to my LHS to pick up a reciever pack and never had one before b/c I just used AA's. How would I wire the reciever pack into the switch connector? My servo saver should be here next week so I can get back to running my truck! Thanks

RC

[dc]

Well you learn something every day, my RX problems was because my LHS gave me bad info on my Novak RX .The one I bought did not mach my JR system and it neads to. Novak is going to exchange it.:cool:

Dave doing it EK4 style

[midmadn]

Originally posted by hooligan
midmadn>i am having serious doubts about an airleak at the starter too.
there is a lot of play on the starter axle that runs in the bushing.
i am looking tomorrow or the messing bushing can be replaced by a new or something better.
i have another pro70 heli engine coming in and i will try taking of the rear cap where the starter is and put the original heli cap on and then see what it does. (gonna start on the bench, on the flywheel with handheld starter)

i will get to the bottom of the idle problems no matter what it costs me !!!!

i bought this ****** for the insane power and I WILL HAVE INSANE POWER :D (and an steady idle god*amn)
i dont care what it costs me but i will find it out whats causing all those engines to run so bad.

gerard

Please let us know how it runs with the Heli back end on it. I'm dying to find out.

Thanks - Jack

[UP2NOGD]

rc,

Thanks for the info.! Time for a few upgrades!! - Spoke w/ Christian at Autohaus Rc and was told that shortly they would have some "necessary" upgrades - " Real Shock Towers" !
Thanks for the help!!

Johnny

[Techspert]

Okay, after taking the above picture, I set out to continue my arduous break-in process only to find out my engine will not start!

It turns over with the familiar put-put sound emitting from the exhaust pipe but will not start. I changed the glow plugs (OS)8, checked high-mid-low needles, checked for missing head screws, possible air-leaks around manifold (which I sealed with silicone gasket stuff), and checked the coupler for pipe and manifold. All is well but the engine. I opened the back starter plate and noticed very small dings underneath the conrod. These dings were also in the circular path that the conrod travels. I don't know what happened, but I'm very frustrated now. I was using 20% Blue Thunder and running it rich with my break-in. I followed the rules and ran 3-3 1/4th turns out on the high end and never gunned or ran the engine more than 1/4 throttle and this happens. :mad:

My compression is non-existent. ?Any suggestions? How are some of you guys getting