Thunder Tiger EK4

[RC Jack]

As far as which Locktite to use, go with the BLUE and you should be fine. If you still have problems with screws coming loose, use a little bit of RED Locktite. Under extreme circumstances, and I mean EXTREME, use only a smidgeon of Locktite RETAINER. If you use RETAINER, you may not be able to remove the screws or have a lot of difficulty doing so.

I don't have any pix of the old verses MJS starter pix, there is a big difference in them and worth the bux, so, it's not money you'll be throwing away on a frivolity.

The batteries that I have are sub"C", 1000mh. You should be able to find longer lasting sub"C" batts somewhere. And they are strong enough for the steering servo, 133 in/oz minimum. To conserve battery power, use a lesser servo for the throttle & brake, a standard one seems to suffice here.

Also, you'd be wise to invest in a FAILSAFE UNIT!!

cya

[pistole]

thanks a lot for your advise on the Locktite. I'll go and get a bottle of Blue and Red Locktite just to be sure.

As for that starter unit , I'll try to take a closer look at it later today when I visit the Store ( what with my DT 10 needing a little
care and attention , ie parts ! ).

The Store is telling me to allow them to run-in the engine. What do you think ? I understand that they do this to all the "sensitive" cars that they sell ... so as to ensure ( I guess ) that we don't screw it up on out own. When I was there , they were running in a new NOVAROSSI 'TURBO' engine (road car) for another client ..... that engine really sounds sweet !

Anyhow , best regards and safe runnings.

Thanks again.

[RC Jack]

pistole, as far as letting the lhs do the break-in for you, that's a personal call. Tho, it's not a difficult motor to break-in, it takes considerably longer than an ABC engine. If you run these settings, you'll have no problem breaking it in:

High.....4-4 1/2 turns
Mid.......Flush
Low......2 turns

All turns are from the "closed" position.

The only "problem" here, is that you'll want to lean it out......due to anxiety.:D :D

Run these setting for at least a gallon, then after that, you can gradually come down to these settings:

High....3 1/2 turns
Mid......Flush
Low.....a little less than 2 turns

I use Cool power 30% Nitro & 20% oil. On a ringed motor, the oil content of the fuel used is more important than the Nitro content. As far as I'm concerned, any fuel over 20% Nitro is a waste! The only reason I use the 30% is because the 20% Cool Power isn't availble where I live....yet. Because the oil in Cool Power fuel is synthetic, I wouldn't recomend it for break-in, too slippery. Try to use a fuel that has caster oil in it for break-in.

One other thing, don't use the RED unless you have to, in fact, I wouldn't buy RED unless I needed it. Gotta think positive, "The BLUE will hold, the BLUE will hold", then click your heels together 3 times. Works for me.
:D

I did manage to find a pix of the MJS and stock starter, tho, it's not from the v2.
Enjoy.

[pistole]

ok , I'll get the BLUE LOCKTITE first ..... but first I am gonna have to get off my flying broom first ..... what with the heel-clicking and all ..................


Anyhow , thats alot for the advise on the carburettor settings. Just a small caveat here , is the carb on the Version 2 the same as the carb on the original EK4 ?


Thank you. Thank you. for the pics of the starter unit. At least I have a point of reference there.


I take your point about the LHS running in the engine. Maybe I'll take the middle road by letting them start it , get it to idle for a while and then I'll take her home from there.


As for the FUEL . I am now using BLUE THUNDER 20% NITRO fuel. Is this the recommended fuel for this truck? It is quite affordable and does well in my DT 10 too.

Thanks again for the pics/advise. Much appreciated.

Bye and safe runnings.

[NitroOwnsYou]

EK4 S2 ARTR . . . the updated truck will have a newly revised PRO70BX engine (large head, new carburetor, new piston/cylinder, new rear starter), new clutch, new bulkheads, new gears, and new body colors (red, blue, and the
current purple).

This information was sourced from John Chang @ TTR. A big thanks to him for the information.

Jr

[NitroOwnsYou]

If you can run the coolpower 30% nitro heli fuel. It has lots of oils to lube and cool that engine down!

http://www.cartogra.com/rs/293CDD28-8F5C-11D6-B42B-0090277A760E/screen.jpg

http://www.cartogra.com/rs/293CDE42-8F5C-11D6-B42B-0090277A760E/screen.jpg

BTW 3 gallons of fuel on the stock crap plastic diffs and Hyper 7 diffs, and no failures!

[pistole]

with that new carburettor for the Version 2 , I guess I will be at the bottom of the learning curve ............

Thanks for the pics , great looking EK4 you have there.

I am seriously thinking of fabricating my own roll cage for the EK4 and my DT 10 in order to lessen the amount of broken parts when rolling the cars. Any ideas ?

Thanks for the information.

Best regards and safe runnings.

[RC Jack]

ain't nothin' wrong with Blue Thunder 20%, but, what's the OIL CONTENT? Should be 20% minimum. If I'm not mistaken, Blue Thunder is one of the fuels that don't list their oil content; they aren't alone, cuz most don't . Don't know what Blue Thunder's web address is, but, if you can get there, you should be able to find out what the oil content is, via their list of codes, then check out their code against the code on your present gallon. Lot of work, isn't it? Just get Cool Power 20/20, might even be cheaper, and that's always a plus. Save the Blue Thunder for your DT-10.

[pistole]

yup , you are right , Dynamite's Blue Thunder fuel does not list its oil content.

I am using it because the Thermal Overload Protection which is part of the fuel really works. On my DT , if I lean it out too much, the fuel causes the engine to cough on acceleration thus letting me know about the mixture problem.

I suppose this would be helpful in the EK4 since it is heat that is the No. 1 enemy for that ringed engine.

If oil content is really that important , then maybe I will go back to what I used to do ages ago , ie mix my own fuel , simple formula : 80% methanol + 20% castor oil ( straight mix - like on the regulation fuel for FAI Aerobatic Plane competitions ).

The Nitro content ......... I will replace with 2-3 % of ACETONE just to assist the idling.

Please let me have your views. Thanks alot for the help.

Best regards and safe runnings.

[alvin1]

beware!............i bought a quart gallon of blue thunder fuel to try {i believe it was the race formula** and although it ran well i searched the web sites and eventualy found out that it had only 10% oil in it!not good for an ek4:eek:

[pistole]

thanks for the note on the Blue Thunder 'Race Formula' fuel. By the way , which site mentioned the 10% oil content ?

I would really like to avoid fuel problems with my EK4. But with the revised Cylinder Head / Piston / Ring , I HOPE that this has been sorted.

Anyhow , I am still chasing the Store to complete the radio installation ............... wish me luck !

Thanks and safe runnings.

[RC Jack]

pistole, I'da replied sooner, but have been very busy in the shop. Now, about your "home brew", I'm not a chemist, so, I can't help you on that on. Sorry.

[pistole]

informed me that they can't install a basic radio ( with an extra torque steering servo ) because that requires a 'special' receiver and 'new wiring'.

They wanted permission to install an expensive SANWA radio (the one with the Digital Display - can't remember the model - I think that it is the 'M-8' ) , saying that it allows , in stock form , the installation of the special servo.

What are your views on this ?

My principal worry is that the SANWA ( M-8 ) is ALOT more expensive than the basic radio.

The basic radio is a SANWA BLAZER unit which is more than adequate for my non-competition use.

Thanks and safe runnings.


NB : I believe that the SANWA brand is marketed in the
USA as AIRTRONICS.

[alvin1]

pistole,as far as i know there is no reason why a basic radio cannot be installed with a high torque steering servo,i have such a set up in my thunder tiger mirage.as long as you have a reasonably high capacity receiver battery to power it.sounds to me like they are trying to take you for a ride,i would be very wary:rolleyes: ps i can't remember which site had the info on the fuel content,it was about a year ago,however i am trying to find it again,its very usefull

[RC Jack]

pistole, what alvin said is true, they are trying to hustle you into expensive radio gear!! This is what I have and it works just fine: a JR 3 channel radio/receiver, I think I paid $169 for it and Hobbico servos, CT-70 and have 133 oz/in torque. If you can afford a 180-200 oz/in, then I'd suggest that, but, you only need one....for the steering; a standard servo will be fine for the throttle & brake.

If that is your LHS that's trying to hustle you, I'd find another LHS or report him/her to the manager. They're in business to make money, but, not at the expense of losing customers.

One last thing, I'd suggest a 3 channel radio; who knows, you may find a use for the third channel, so, it's better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it. AND make sure it's an FM! AM has too many glitches. And don't forget a FAILSAFE UNIT!!($29)

[pistole]

he is actually quite a nice chap. Eager to help and full of knowledge.

What he was trying to explain to me was that he can just throw in a high-torque servo with the standard radio but the excessive current drain will result in the throttle servo twitching at full drain of the steering servo ..... and lessened performance throughout.


Is this a viable explanation ? I know that when the receiver batteries of my DT are run-down , full lock on the streering will result in the throttle servo twitching , so I am not dismissing what he has said off hand.


Anyway , I dropped by and discussed it with him and he said that having even tried the SANWA M-8 model , he can't attach the high-torque servo to it . So the M-8 is also out of the question.

He is currently looking for a special 'receiver' to attach to the basic BLAZER radio that I have insisted on , but I have to wait....


Auggghhhhhhhhh .................




I am suffering from EK4 dependancy syndrome .... help.


Bye and safe runnings.

[toddzilla]

i have an old mag. jr in my monster pirate.. hitec super torque steering servo and stock throttle servo.. it doesn't glitch when i put full lock on steering.. i'd just go with a decent transmitter with end point adjust ments and put a high torque servo for steering..
if it glitches then you could mess with it, but i think he might be a little too demanding in his requirements..

[RC Jack]

As far as the radio gear goes, there is no difference between the EK and any other monster truck, they all have oversize tires. Maybe the guy at your LHS is just makin' it complicated so, you'll rely on him more or doesn't really know.

ANY 2 or three channel radio & receiver will work just fine, just make sure it's an FM unit. Plus, when the batteries are drained, they're drained. If the servo twitches then, well, you aren't going to run the vehicle till they are re-charged again, are you? I know I certainly won't. Just get a 2 or 3 channel FM radio & receiver and don't let your LHS complicate things, life's complicated enough.

[alvin1]

pistole,having read the explanation given by the lhs,i still can't help but think that they are exagerating the issue.it's down to the reciever battery to supply current to the servos,as long as the battery is a reasonably high capacity one it will supply both servos adequatly.as was previously pointed out,if the battery is near flat,the servos will twitch for a number of reasons,including using full steering lock,and you would not run the car until the batteries had been recharged.this applies to any radio with a flat battery including expensive ones;)

[pistole]

thanks alot for the input , it is really appreciated.

The LHS has relented , and is installing the SANWA BLAZER unit with the H-Torque Steering Servo ..... but they need time because they need to 'source the Receiver and do the wiring'.

I joke you not. They had another EK4 at the Store also with a SANWA BLAZER system installed with strange wiring to enable the H-Torque Servo.

Thanks and safe runnings.


NB :- If the 0.21 engines are known as BIG BLOCK engines , what is the 0.70 of the EK4 to be known as ? MEGA BLOCK ?

LOL................

[NitroOwnsYou]

Pistole,

On the rx and servo issue, Airtronics/sanwa had a wiring change on their servos/recievers awhile back to match the futaba/Jr/Hitec wiring. The newer setup in the US is called the Z-connector. the recievers and the servo connector, are blue (I know some of them are =) ) Maybe that is the conflict you ran into with your hobby shop. Maybe your Blazer radio is of the old style, and the new (to be installed) servo is of the z connector style, he might be searching for a harness to convert the wiring to your old reciever. I think on the old setup the positive wire was in the middle and the negative wire was on the outside. now they are reversed (I might of reversed them, I just cant remember the wiring off the top of my head).

Ko-Propo, I believe had the older style wiring, and converted it also.

If you need me to shed some light on this further, I will, but I know the reciever doesnt need to be changed out, unless its defective.

Jr

[pistole]

..... thank you , thank you........ you are spot on about that "Z CONNECTOR" matter because the high torque servo that was shown to me was marked "Z Connector Only" on the box and thus could not fit the BLAZER's wiring requiring a 'special' wiring loom to be bought or made.

I am made to understand that SANWA markets a special wiring harness to adapt the old style receivers to the new Z-Connector type servos ......... but maybe they can't get that here , thus the need to fabricate.

Thanks again for the kind response , I am really amazed with the amount of expert knowledge in these forums ......

Thanks and safe runnings.

[pistole]

I dropped by the STORE yesterday evening and the Guy actually took the time to demonstrate to me how the standard BLAZER receiver could not control (without glitching) the high torque steering servo ...............

BUT when he attached a different type of Receiver ( cannot remember the model number , but which can accomodate the Z TYPE connector of the servo ) , there was no glitching at all.

This test was conducted with one similar battery pack.


So ....................... the long and short of it is that :-


(a) sometimes , they're not bluffing you, and

(b) I can collect my EK4 this evening !


Wish me luck.


Bye and safe runnings.

[NitroOwnsYou]

Good Luck!

I hope you enjoy yours as much as I enjoy mine!


Jr

[pistole]

thanks , I really appreciate it.

The Store has agreed to break it in for me ( the first 3-4 tanks of fuel ) ............ so I am very optimistic.

As for the fuel , I have a limited choice here , ie :-

(a) Tornado,
(b) Dynamite Blue Thunder, and
(c) Gammalube

Any suggestions ? From the **** forum by 'midmadn' , Blue Thunder (20%) fuel is said to be OK.

Thanks again and safe runnings.

[pistole]

today .......... and she's now in the boot of my Car.

The store had run her in already .......... 5 tanks of fuel and she's going fine already.............


When the EK accelerates , is the suspension supposed to dip slightly at the rear ?

And the tyres are really soft ( is there even an insert in there ? ) ... compared to my DT10.......... is this normal ?


She make ONE HELL OF A NOISE !


Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

yeah , she going great and the NOISE from the exhaust is really something else !

When I start her , there is no mistaking it for an EK4 ........

I had got the SHOP to tune her slightly rich ( since she is really still a virgin ............ ) , so there plenty of smoke from the pipe when the throttle is blipped or at a good pace.

She EASY to start ................. EASY to idle BUT ............ all the stuff that I have to carry to run her is really a hassle , ie , the Starter Battery, the Starter , the Glow Igniter , the Fuel Bottle , the Radio and the basic tools ............... aaughhhhhhhh ..... but everyone who has seen it is totally in awe of its SIZE , CYLINDER HEAD and above all the NOISE !!!!! Its like a 2 stroke racing motorcycle engine..


I really love it ! I will be taking her out to the PARK today and letting her have her head , if she wants to ........



Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

well , it rained CATS & DOGS today yesterday afternoon , so no go for the park run. Instead , at night I brought her home and ran her on the asphalt ......... she's really easy to start and idle. No problems whatsoever.


I think that TTR really worked out the bugs with that engine/carb. So , I guess these are the fruits of the earlier birthing pains..................... . AND the cordless power drill starting solution does NOT work with the new EK. It can't get up to enough speed to get the engine started ............ or it could just be a bad battery on my 2 year old DRILL ................


Will bring the EK into the SHOP today to replace the crystals on the Radio , they supplied me the same frequency ones as on my DT-10 , so thats kind of inconvenient.

I have to also look for a fuel filter to install on to the EK .... any recommendations ? I am kind of suprised that a car in this class would not come with one installed already .......... of well.


To those EK owners out there , how do you prevent the body pins ( etc ) from breaking when running her hard , eg when she rolls ................... ? Is a roll cage the only solution ?


Bye and safe runnings.

[NitroOwnsYou]

Cordless drill is really the only way to go. I use a Dewalt 18v cordless drill. I know its a bit overkill, but I dont bu8y any of the 12v ones anymore (use them for work also).

Any cleanable 2 piece fuel filter will work fine. Also most of the kits or rtrs neglect fuel filters, so the EK isnt the only one. My MRX3 didnt come with one either, and for $475 bucks just the kit it would have been nice to get one.


Ive never broken a body post or lost a clip as of yet. Maybe this might be a defect from TTR?

Jr

[pistole]

7.2 volt item , so I guess its totally useless ...........


Anyhow , bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

my Version 2 - EK was going GREAT ................. she's tuned slightly rich since its still relatively new ..... so lots of smoke when blipping the throttle.

It handles the undulating ground really well and THE SOUND is ASTOUNDING .............. acceleration is BOOM-BOOM.


I started by DT 10 ( its down due to broken rear shock tower ) just to warm it up and when I compare its 0.15 engine note to that of the EK's 0.70 , there is a marked difference... the EK is like a 2 stroke racing motorcycle's engine ......... the DT is like a buzz-saw.


But both the EK and the DT are really easy to start and idle.


I learnt to lightly oil the starter rod ball end of the EK in order to prevent BINDING when the same is coupled to start the 0.70 .... I noticed that after the oiling , the shaft engages cleanly and without any binding at all.


I am going to head out to the park later today after work .... it is raining now ............ aaugh.


By the way , is an ELECTRONIC FAILSAFE a good investment ? I dropped by the STORE yesterday and they had some on sale ............ some expensive , some not so. Is there any difference between the brands ? The expensive ones are branded ( eg KO PROPO ) ......... the cheaper ones are just generic brands. Do they all do the same job ?


I am looking at doing a Throttle Return Spring ........... but the set up is not conducive to attaching one .......... not like my DT.


I ran the EK a bit on the street yesterday ............ only later did I realise that I had not put on the battery cover on my transmitter after disconnecting the TX from the charger ....... had the batteries fallen out when the EK was flying hard................ oh no.




Bye and safe runnings.

[NitroOwnsYou]

I run one on my ek. Very much worth the money wether its 40 or 80 dollars. It wont save your ass if the linkage pops off or you loose power from the reciever pack. It will stop the truck when your radio glitches badly, or when you loose signal totally, or when the battery pack gets too low for safe operation.

Just wait till you can tune that beast to wheelie on command. :D

Jr

[alvin1]

pistole,i dont run a failsafe myself ,however i do think they are a good idea,especialy on an ek4,and will be purchasing one when i get my ek4.as for the throttle return spring that is ABSOLUTELY essential in my opinion,it will certainly protect you against your transmitter battries falling out.{i know ,i've had many a runaway in the past before i learnt this**.see if you can attach one end of the spring to the zip tie around the air filter and the other to the servo throttle linkage,this is what i have done with my thunder tiger mirage and it works flawlessly every time:D

[pistole]

thanks for the advice , I will try to negotiate a good price on that FAILSAFE ..... and do the Throttle Return Spring later.


Went to the park today , great time ....


Yup , I am waiting patiently to tune her to wheelie later.......


Bye and safe runnings.

[NitroOwnsYou]

:D once the wheelies start, you are going to want a nice wheelie bar for that thing! My truck NEEDS one :D

http://www.cartogra.com/rs/293CDD28-8F5C-11D6-B42B-0090277A760E/screen.jpg

Jr

[Mt killer]

Yes I ran the length of a foot ball field on two wheels! it is amazig how she stays straight when on two wheels. I have to admit it was challenging trying to get her not to spring up on one wheel. So once I got her up I had to back out just a touch and maintain the two wheel thing. It is real amazing how this thing can pull them up at 30 plus MPH and hold them. EK4 rocks! :D

[pistole]

great to hear from you.


That wheelie must have been enormous ..............


I have not tuned in my EK yet , so she can't wheelie ...... I am being gentle with her .......... she's still just a BABY....


I love the SOUND though ......... nothing else out there like it.



Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

lets make this thread active again ( active for good reasons I hope ) and post your EK4 stuff + action here.


I for one am heading out to the Park again after work ( its 5.30 pm here ) but the grounds are wet again from the rain........ so maybe it will be a gentle run.


Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

I will bring my car over to by dad's place later and use his digital camera to upload pics for y'all to see.

I had trouble before with the warning "File Too Large" .... is this avoidable ?

Or should I take the photos in LOW-RESOLUTION MODE ?


Post up if yer wants to sees pics of me truck ..................


Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

does anyone knows what has happened to Midnight Madness' forum ?


It seems to be down ................... sad , lots of great EK4 info and forum there.


Bye and safe runnings.

[alvin1]

does anybody have any idea when the version 2 ek4 will be available in the uk? i've contacted the uk importer but they seem to have difficulty distinguishing between the version 2 and the .90 unlimited models.i seem to know more about their products than they do!please help:confused:

[pistole]

I ran my EK hard today at the PARK and she was really flying .................. I had a real collection of spectators gawking at the size and sound of that car !


She was going fine and climbing really hard , even though she was tuned very rich . I still cannot wheelie her yet but am still waiting patiently for her FIRST TIME off the ground.


BUT ......... beware all EK owners .......... whilst I was climbing the HILL , and turning slowly ( thank goodness ) , a rear wheel fell off because the wheel nut had loosened !!!!


Remember , please , to LOCKTITE even the wheel nuts ...... if not can you imagine the damage to the Car if she was at full trot....


I love that EK of mine .... no regrets buying her.


Bye and safe(r) runnings.


As for ALVIN ....... I have no idea about the position in the UK but the UNLIMITED is the 0.90 version , so I imagine that's a different kettle of fish alltogether.

Good luck on you hunt though. Perhaps if you visit the acehobby.com site , you can get an idea about the Version 2 and , hopefully , be able to communicate better with your local TTR distributor.

If you really need one , drop me a line and I'll see what I can do for you. Perhaps I can hook you up with my local dealer and you can take it from there .......... your choice.


Best of luck ALVIN.

[pistole]

whilst I was at the STORE today ( after they had shown me a delicious SERPENT VETEQ road car ) , I spied a vented 17 tooth clutch bell for my EK4 engine.



The Stock one is 14 tooth.

Is this a good modification to install ? Its cheap and they said that the EK will really fly after that , but a bit of torque is sacrificed in return , but the EK has torque to spare ......


Please let me have your views on the 17 tooth pinion.


Thanks and safe runnings.

[Sgt_Ek4]

Pistole-

First off- don't worry about sacrificing any torque in the EK4, it has gobs to spare.

The stock gearing in the EK4 has a 4.29:1 final ratio. A 17T bell would put you in the 3.53:1 area, which is still relatively tame.

Many folks who want to step up to a taller bell usually choose an Ofna 18T Vented bell. The 18T bell is approximately 33% higher than stock, and sacrifices no torque.

I have also had good luck with a 20T and 22T bell as well, both very fast, still snappy, and of course, still wheelies.

Good luck

[wetspot]

are you same sarge on another forum midmad . and if you are could you tell me are you having trouble shigning on to that forum and to pistole larger clutch makes larger fun.

[Sgt_Ek4]

Wetspot-

Yes I am-

There is a problem with the webpage(s) on Midmad.com. Some folks seem to think it is a problem with their account- it is not.
The Admin is doing what they can to take care of the issue, and will let you all know ASAP.

Sorry abut the inconvienience-

[NitroOwnsYou]

:rolleyes: @ forum


Sup Sarge!

Jr

[wetspot]

though maybe i got banned at first Thanks again:D

[pistole]

for the kind advice on the 17 tooth vented bell. Will purchase one today and see how she'll go.


I locktited all the wheel nuts , so hopefully , there won't be a repeat of the 'flying wheel' episode.

Will take her to the Park again later , with my DT10 and we'll trash some more.


Great fun guys.


Oh and SARGE , thanks for the info about midmadn's forum being down ....... that message about 'account suspended / billing' sure gives a wrong impression. Thanks again for the great work over at the midnight madness forum ........ good info about the EK.


Thanks and safe runnings.

[pistole]

I have a theory about the EK4's original set of problems with the engine and carburettor.

Your views on this would be very much appreciated.

The reason for me posting this is that I now own an EK 4 S2 Version 2 which is going fine and showing none of the earlier version's flaws.

She's the one with the new Cylinder Head , Carb , through bolts on the Diffs , etc. Having compared it to the older version (an incomplete comparison since I only have pictures of the old car and bits of information gleaned from the poor souls that have wrecked their EKs and posted their cries for help) , I have come to the following theory :-

(a) As regards to the engine/carb set up , TTR has done the following ( vide the addendum and also vide the Version 2 ) :-

(i) raised the level of the fuel tank vis a vis the carburettor. The raised height is not insignificant ( about an inch plus ). It raises the middle of the tank up to the height of the carb-throat ( as it should have been in the first place ),

(ii) moved the fuel tank pressure nipple on the muffler to a higher pressure area ( ie , nearer to the manifold ) thus resulting in greater fuel tank pressure which results in more fuel going to the Carb , and

(iii) installed an aluminium insert in the form of a restrictor into the throat of the new carburettor thus , I believe, enhancing the venturi effect of the said Carb. This enhanced venturi effect will also result in more fuel being drawn from the various needles. Remember Bernoulli ?


(b) Here comes the theory . The sum of the above mods is that it was meant to cure a form of fuel starvation in the old Version of the EK4 which inadvertently , I believe , resulted in an artificially lean mixture reaching the Carb irregardless of the needle settings. This automatic leaning .... which would get progressively worse as the fuel level in the tank fell, resulted in fried engines. The design of the cylinder head was partly to blame ( perhaps ) but not the one determinant factor here. The reason for this is very simple , that very same engine runs fine in the Helicopters ( ie , also an enclosed , high temp , environment ) without encountering the acute problems suffered by the EK.


(c) Now , I know that the above is just a theory , but its , I believe , educated guesswork based on comparing the current version , the various mods made by TTR and also the old car's problems.


Lets hear your opinion and views herein.

If TTR is listening in , maybe you could post anonymously and confirm or deny the above without opening yourself up to suit.


Thanks and safe runnings.

[Sgt_Ek4]

You've done your homework Pistole-

From what I read you are right on track, and it's very good input.

I just have a few thoughts-

- I have performed the fuel tank mod in my truck, and have noticed a slight increase in performance, nothing earth shattering, but noticable. Is the raised tank in your new S2 the same as the "Fuel Tank Fix" TTR put out? Or did they move it even higher up on the new version?

- Regarding the restrictor. Enhancing the Venturi Effect is absolutely correct. But, from my knowledge, having a restrictor is not always a good thing, removing it from nitro engines will usually enhance the performance by night and day. This mod may not apply to the throaty .70, but as for the snappier high-revving small blocks, it dramatically raises output. Think of it as taking the Govenor off of a Go-Kart Motor. Maybe it is an attempt to conserve fuel? I dunno, TTR should explain this, IMO.

-As for the carb change- you are right, the combination of factors may lead to a false sence of mixture in the carburator-But, I still feel that the reason why some folks have trouble tuning the .70 is because they are compensating for the richness by leaning out the HSN, and only the HSN. As we know, both the LSN and HSN need to be adjusted when finding initial and post break-in settiings. IMO, if the average Joe sees his truck is behaving like it's too rich, he just grabs the screwdriver, cranks out the HSN, and that's it.....Bang. I guess I'm trying to say that the HSN needs to be used in moderation, not compensation.

Good points, got any pics?

[Sgt_Ek4]

Oh, one more thing-

Please keep us informed about how the new truck is performing. I want to see how the new "fixes" like the diffs and starter plate and cooling head work out.

Thx-

[pistole]

thanks for the kind words.

I am working on the pictures now since I have pinched the digi-cam from my Father and am trying to figure out how to connect the cam to my computer ......... sorry for the lateness of the pics.

As for how my EK is doing , it is fine , I just ran her yesterday (about 2 tanks full) and its fun , the sound from the motor is really astounding.


But SARGE , I am still going gently with the EK ...... ie , no jumps , no full throttle extended runs ........ just a bit of Hill Climbing !

So , perhaps , my experience with the new EK ought to be qualified by the way in which I have been using the car but the important bit is that the engine is really running cool and I imagine that that is the important part to bear in mind.



Starter Plate
____________

No problems here SARGE. I have not had close sight of the original one with all the problems but what I do see is that the new one has two grub screws at 90 degree interval on the starter pinion as opposed to the one on the old starter shaft. There is also additional aluminium webbing on the back plate by way of reinforcement , I guess.


The Cy. Head
____________

Nice and cool here SARGE. Pokes out of the body and impresses everyone ..........


Fuel Tank
_________

The new tank has incorporated the raised mounting pins and also the relocated pressure nipple. I am not certain whether on my EK is has been further raised but the mid-level of the tank is roughly level with the base of the carb.



Restrictor
__________


I am convinced that it is a restrictor because the alum. sleeve is conical internally.



Anyway, the pics ........... working on them.




Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

how do you guys stop your EK's engine ?


I usually put a finger to the exhaust and snuff it out.



Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

As promised.... the pics

[pistole]

Pics...

[pistole]

pic

[pistole]

piccccyyy

[pistole]

pppppppppppppppiiiiiiiiiiiiicccccccccccccccccccccc cc

[pistole]

picturesssssssssssss

[pistole]

ppppppppiiiiiiiiiic tures

[pistole]

ppppiiiccctuurueresada

[pistole]

ppococococ

[pistole]

pppppppcccccccccccccccccccc

[pistole]

more pics to come , but I have to post on my buddy's DCLXVI's DT10 thread now .........


See ya and safe runnings.


NB : Both were running fine today at the park.

[pistole]

there is a significant size difference between the EK and the DT ......... together with a great big weight difference as well.

That EK is really heavy ......... hence my KO Propo 12kg steering servo. That servo is very strong and makes an easy meal of the big wheels.


I have been running the EK everyday since I got hear more than a week ago........ no problems so far , she going fine and I am not regretting buying her.


How are all the old guys on this thread ? Like HOOLIGAN , etc. Are they still around ?

It seems like only the hardcore ones are left and even then , they're hanging out at midmad.com's forum. Hey , come on. Post some pics and lets exchange some info on the BIGGEST truck out there.


Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

if y'all are busy viewing the thread ( what with the trouble I took to put up all those pictures earlier ) , I can tell because the views counter is going like crazy ......... BUT


no one else is supporting this thread by posting ANYTHING.


The forum at MIDMAD is not any better , they seem to be talking about the same things over and over again ( blah blah clutch , blah blah engine can't start , blah blah what fuel to use , blah needle settings ad nauseum , msj this msh that , ...... Good God ...... ) ........ everyone griping.


No one is posting anything great that they're doing with their EK , like how are you running your truck , hill climbing , jumping , what not.


I am throughly enjoying my EK and am running her almost everyday , weather permitting. I take her hill climbing at the park and also a bit of mild jumping.

She can wheelie now and that is really impressive , imagine the truck screaming (0.70 BIG BLOCK engine ) up a 40% incline hill on her two rear wheels................ You should see the look on the faces of the 'spectators'.


Hey , come on ........... lets bring this thread back to life . Enough already with the gripes.


Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

PIGS !!!!!!!!


If you don't post before the end of business day today , I am going to ................. stand in the corner and sulk ..............


COME ON COME ON COME ON !!!


Lurking is a SIN !!!!



Peace and safe runnings.

[NitroRookie]

If I'm going to be only get one Nitro RC I want it to be very durable have a monsterous sized engine. And kick the pants off of any T-maxx old or new that it gets near.

[pistole]

come on , lurking is a mortal sin , you could end up with TMAXX up you *** for all eternity ...........


ITS TIME TO POST .............. to the controls people.



Bye and safe runnings.


NB : Nitro Rookie , aren't you decided already on what you want to buy ? If I remember correctly , its a HPI SAVAGE or something like that ............. Anyhow , best of luck on your MINI-BLOCK-ENGINE TRUCK.


MINI BLOCK , MINI BLOCK , MINI BLOCK .................. nyeh-nyeh-nyeh..............


As , you can tell , I have gone off the deep end ................

[NitroOwnsYou]

Ok ok heres some pics...... Some have been posted before, but Ill post them again, cuz I love to look at the truck!



Edit: Pics will be posted later............

[NitroOwnsYou]

More...

EK4

Edit: Pics will be posted later............

[NitroOwnsYou]

Dont make fun of my body either! That was my first attempt at an airbrush! :D

Jr

[NitroRookie]

NitroOwnsYou none of the pics are working.

[NitroOwnsYou]

OMG! They just were working! F!

[Poindexter]

Are there any other differences than thos outline by Pistole between the EK4 and the EK4 V2? I jus tbought one, and have bought the MSJ Head, Backplate, Flyhwheel, along with HHH Braces and battery holder. Is there anything else I can buy for it? I am really interested in handling mods, as I intend to race this truck in the MT class at my local track. I've raced a T-Maxx succesfully, but am really thrilled with the EK4 idea...

[pistole]

if you've just bought an EK4 ( I assume you bought a new one ) how is it that you're still talking about MSJ stuff ?

Just take a look at the pics that I have posted above ...... does your car look like that ? Mine is unmodified , pure stock.

Unless , you've bought a new-old model .............. if so , I would take it back and return it in an awful hurry.


Sorry to appear negative , but , hey ....... I have had stuff on the V2 up on this thread for ages.


Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

sorry , your pics , they no worky.





POST POST POST ............. come on !!!!!!!!!!!!!


Does anyone know what happened to the earlier people who started this thread ? Like HOOLIGAN , etc ........... are they still alive ?


Bye and safe runnings.

[Poindexter]

Pistole, I bought a "new old model" on eBay--why should I retrun it in a hurry? I have read through a whole lot of the past posts (and will workk through more today), and it seems that a lot of the "problems" can be alleviated if I follow the given tips. Is that so? Are there problems that can't be fixed? I am not afraid to tinker, and things like the fuel tank modification, and sealing the engine, etc. don't bother me. Please let me know--I really appreciate the input. Thanks!

[pistole]

sorry to appear negative with my earlier post.


But , if the V2 is available (maybe its not over where you're at ...) , why buy the new-old version and have to spend money on those extras to make it run properly ?


Anyhow , good luck with your purchase ...... visit the MIDMAD.COM forum often , they have great info on the EK4 that can help you get up to speed on the Hows and Whys.


Just be careful with the running in. Avoid messing with the low and mid needles. Just richen the High Speed needle and let her belch as much smoke as she wants .......

Bye and safe runnings.

[Poindexter]

Thanks, guys. I've been told to make certain the low is at 2 - 2 1/4 turns out, the mid 1/4-in from flush, and the high at 3/34 - 4 out. This sound right? I know enough from my older Novarossi .21 buggy engines not to mess with the mid speed oo much, but I always have a hard time trusting the "factory" settings.... I also read on Midmad that I should loctite everything, and, new to me, use red loctite on the "grub" screws. Can anyone clarify what a "grub" screw is on an EK4?

[NitroOwnsYou]

The "grub" screws aka set screws are the little hex screws w/o a head that threads into the drive cup(the part that mounts to the pinion to accept the front and rear drive shafts). Now although that forum reccomends red loctite, I know for a fact that blue is plenty sufficient. Just use a liberal amount on the screw before you insert it into the cup, then thread it in. I reccommend letting it sit 2-4 hours before you run it to let the loctite dry. Presto it should be perfect. Red loctite is just too strong IMO, and not needed if loctited properly. Trust me on this, as Ive played with the drivetrain alot on that truck! They even say to use red on the exhaust manifold bolts that IMO work fine with blue loctite. Use a good set of allen wrenches to snug up the drive cup screws also. Cheap ones just cant do it as well as the good ones can.

Jr

[pistole]

Nitro Owns You has it correct. Do not use Loctite Red unless you don't mind stripping your screws/grub screws when you next try to remove them.


Do any of y'all have a pic that you could post of the old starter back plate and coupling ( the one that caused all the trouble in the first place ) ?


I am looking for a pic to compare it to the new one on my V2 (the pics of which I have posted above).

Thanks and safe runnings.

[Poindexter]

LOL! I just read your "Iran-Contra Affair" intro above... Not many people remember Adm. Poindexter... I am waiting on my EK4 and am extremely anxious to get my hands on it... I suppose next on my list will be a set of aluminum diff cases and Hyper-7 diffs....

:p

[NitroOwnsYou]

I still havent purchased any alum diff cases from christian, and still dont know if I will. My H7 diffs are bulletproof. Still no mods to those old flimsy gearbox cases. Actually I had one failure that I did not post on the midmad forum. I desintegrated one of those cheap ass TTR bearings that supports the pinion gear, and let the pinion gear walk off of the bevel gear a bit and slightly rounded the bevel gear teeth. Having 2 hyper 7 buggy's, I swapped out a diff from my buggy, and replaced all the bearings with quality bearings that will last. well theres my thoughts!

Jr

[pistole]

Hi.

Just to drop you guys a note. I've been having fun with my EK since I bought her and have 2 things to add :-

(a) try not to use a drill to start her. The lack of any play in the starter shaft when used in the chuck of a drill , as opposed to the use of a rubber cone starter adapter on an airplane starter unit may result in the snapping of the coupler on the starting plate. More on this at the midmad.com forum , and

(b) remember to OIL the ball head of the starter shaft to prevent binding. This is important , binding will result , eventually , in a broken coupler.


FOR THE AVOIDANCE OF DOUBT : The above 2 points are just my views from reading the posts here , I have not had any problems with my EK4 since I have been all along , using the airplane starter and also oiling the ball head of the starter shaft.



By the way , the EK is flying fine...... took her to the park yesterday and let her rip....... the engine is getting loose and the power/torque is slowly coming through ............ wheeeelieeesss.

I am still using Dynamite Blue Thunder (20%) ...... without any problems whatsoever. I have just bought another Gallon of the stuff , but I got the 25% one , thought I might try something slightly different.


Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

those alum gear cases from MSJ cost USD220-00 for a pair. I am not even talking about shipping costs yet.


My EK4 V2 (without radio) costs , about , USD375-00 here.


I have much sympathy for one bloke on the MIDMAD.COM forum that complained about those cases being WAY TOO EXPENSIVE.

If I bought those cases and the MSJ starter , I might as well buy another EK4 truck as a spare................


Just a thought , but hey , the economics just don't work out....



Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

I am able to appreciate good machining when I see it ....... but money is still money .........

Stupid Example follows :-
______________________

Its like you paid USD25,000-00 for your car.

New wheel rims for that car will cost you USD20,000-00.


Might as well buy a new car.




Bye and safe runnings.

[Poindexter]

Pistole, what you're failing to appreciate it is that we are in this hobby not for the economics of it, but for more ethereal reasons. We can apply any number of theories (8 x the cost of you truck is still a long way from true cost of a 1:1 scale monster truck, etc....), but they entirely miss the mark. We cannot justify what we spend based on how practical a purchase is... We buy what tugs at our heart, and if nice, shiny, billet aluminum diff cases are what do so, and we have the means, then we shouldn't try to justify their purchase. I mean, did I REALLY need a .70-powered monster truck? Practically, NO--emotionally, ABSOLUTELY!!! Gues which side won....:D

[pistole]

Hi.


My EK4 is going strong ........ weather here permitting , that is.....


Does anyone here have any experience with the VENOM Electronic Failsafe ?

There's one on sale at the Store ..........


Bye and safe runnings.



NB : AREN'T there any other V2 owners out there ????

[Poindexter]

Yes--Be very sure that you set it up as per the instructions because, unlike the OFNA version, it is not properly set at the factory and will ACCELERATE your car if you shut the radio of and the car is on.... It happened to a friend with a brand-new Nova Mega in his Mugen MRX-3. Luckily the car was on the starter box and we caught it right away... Could not have been good for the engine, though....:p

[pistole]

.... attended any Congressional Inquiries lately ...............

LOL.



Anyway , thanks for the info on that VENOM FAIL SAFE........ it needs to be set , right ? Okay.


Have you received your EK4 yet ?

Please post some pics when you get the car. It'll be interesting to note the stuff on/in it.


Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

the reason why I had advised you to be careful about your NEW/OLD version EK4 is contained in the EK4 thread located at ACEHOBBY.COM ( Forum section ). See the threads on 'Buyer beware...... "


There SEEMS to be some EK4 owners out there who are STILL having problems with their old 0.70 engines , even after they had been rebuilt by ACE under warranty.


I mean , if there is a new version out, why on earth would you want to pay for the old version ( with acknowledged problems ) unless you got it REALLY CHEAP and was willing to factor in the costs of MSJ ,,,,,, etc, etc.........


Sorry , just my thoughts on this ........

By the way , is the V2 available where you're at ?


Bye and safe runnings.

[Poindexter]

I understand why you'd advise that--and I appreciate it. However, I got the EK4 at a very good price, with the hop-ups included, so I won't complain too loudly... Regarding the V2, I haven't seen any locally. But, you must note that I haven't even seen the S2 version very much locally (I can only recall seeing one other TT EK4 at my local track), so that's not terribly surprising. I think that TT is not calling the truck "V2" in the U.S. market--even the magazine ads still list the truck as the TT EK4 S2... but they show the improved head, and list the other improvements (diffs, carb, backplate, etc...).

[NitroRookie]

If I was to get an EK-4 I'd have to pay upwards of $1,700.00 Canadian to it.

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by NitroRookie
If I was to get an EK-4 I'd have to pay upwards of $1,700.00 Canadian to it.

Why would you have to pay $1700 Canadian for it? That price seems very hefty--even factoring-in some of the "essential" hop-ups....:confused:

[NitroRookie]

There's no hop-ups in this list. check it out.

Thunder Tiger EK-4 w/.70
Quantity Item No# Description Price
1 TTT6216F 1/8 EK4 4WD Nitro Truck w/70 $799.99
1 AIR90511 MX-3 3-Channel FM 1/94102Z 75M $189.99
2 AIR94358Z Servo - ERG-VR Hi-Spd/Torq 200 $177.99ea
1 SUL603 Dynatron Electric Starter $124.99
1 HPI74105 Glow Plug Igniter w/Charger $ 29.99
1 DYM2000 Turbo Fueler Fuel Bottle $ 12.99
Sub-Total $1,513.93
Tax 7% $ 105.97
C.O.D Fee $ 6.00
Total w/o Shipping $1,625.90

[Poindexter]

Where are you getting those prices? What's the current exchage rate for Canadian-US dollars?

You can trim quite a bit off of that list. For example, you can use a Hitec 645MG servo on the steering end--lot's of torque, and it only costs $50 U.S. You can use a standard servo (these come with most new radios) on the throttle/brake end.

As far as your radio is concerned, you can make do with the inexpensive Hitec FM radios, or even the Futaba 2Pk FM Magnum Jr., radio--you don't have to have the digital screen, etc. of the MX#. You can buy the Hitecs for about $80 or $90...

Then, you can look for a bargain on a glow-plug ignitor on eBay (I've bought some for as low as $8), and do like-wise for a cordless drill (of at least 12v...). I bought a Bosch 12V cordless drill for $60 at the swapmeet....

I can't help you with tax or COD, but you can see how you can save a considerable amount by carefuly choosing your components--and even your vendors.

If price where no object, your list looks extremely good--however, you'll still have very similar performance from the not-so-pricey options....:D

[EK4_Fan]

Anyone know where on the web to get the updated EK4 from?

[Mt killer]

I'm still abusing them but after rebuilding my diffs I added the through scews and bolts as suggested by TTR. I Shimed them and noticed that they seemed to be really tight. I hate allen wrench screw heads so I replaced the bolts that lock the diff cases down with bolts with Phillip heads I got these bolts from my local hard ware shop for $1.50 however they are a little longer and they came with bolts. So I said why not? I noticed that the diffs loosened a little and now after 15 tanks of real abuse they seem to be holding up!!!! It's a cheap fix I think every body should give it a shot. I could be wrong but at a buck fitty it is worth a shot! :cool:

I hope you have the same rssults that I have Good luck!

[pistole]

Hi.

Have you received your EK4 yet ?

Let us have a progress report ........


As for my EK4 , it is going fine , except that now with the engine loosening up very well , the engine sometimes quits when decellerating from a High Speed run.

Could it be the mixture ? Ie the sudden closing of the throttle resulting in access fuel being all of a sudden , drawn into the engine and snuffing out the Plug ?

Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

Has anyone here raced a nitro monster truck against an electric one ?

Was there any competition AT ALL ?


Bye and safe runnings.

[Mt killer]

I have a electric stampede with a 10 turn motor and a racing speed controller. (I get only about 2 1/2 minutes of running time.) I runn the highest gear made for it and you would not believe the speed of that thing. LOL!

[pistole]

my nitros are really fast and leave the electric boys blushing.

They don't even dare to let their cars down onto the ground when I have my cars ( a TTR DT10 and the EK4 ) on the run.

And with run times in the realm of 2-3 mins ...... they even go home early.


LOL. Like I said , not cocky.


Bye and safe runnings.

[Mt killer]

Pistole,
real electric RC's run just as fast if not faster in some cases. it is hard find anything faster then a 10 turn motor. when I run it I keep 3 batteries one right after the other with my quick charger I run almost none stop! I love my Ek4 and T-maxx far more then my electric pede but I have that pede maxxed out. If you don't know what a 10 turn hot motor is. Don't take a bet on which is faster. That pede is so light and it is only rear wheel drive. It has a clear advantage. :D

[pistole]

Check them out at the ACEHOBBY.COM section for the 1/8 truck.

Bye and safe runnings.



NB : My V2 is going just great.

[pistole]

Hi.



http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=789265

[pistole]

Just changed to a Vented 17 tooth clutch bell....... the EK is really flying now !!!!!!!!!!

Just check out midmad.com

I have posted a couple of warnings there for those attempting this bell swap !!!


Bye and safe runnings.

[Poindexter]

Okay, I'm a happy camper now--I finally got my EK4. The only problem is, there was no starter rod/hex anywhere to be found! Do I call ACE and order one up, or is there a better, after market alternative?

Incidentally, the air filter was also missing, but I suppose I could use one of my buggy spares. The truck is really cool, but needs to be fully assembled. It has the MSJ backplate, flywheel, Fridge head, and battery cover. It also has HHH motor mounts and chassis braces. I'm going to take it completely apart and loc-tite everything down properly during reassembly.

Oh, and the suspension sucks. I think I'll try using only two shocks in the rear, different springs, and, of course, different oil.

Anyone have any experience with Imex tires? These seem to have a nice tread pattern, though they seem to be even wider than the stock tires. OFNA Dominator wheels/Prolin Bowties are in my immediate future.... :D

[Meesh]

You should try running it with the 4 shock set up in the rear. It actually works quite well. Since this pic I've upgrade to the OFNA threaded body shocks from Unlimited Engineering. 2 in the front, 4 in the rear.


http://pic5.picturetrail.com:80/VOL92/800986/1418510/16602556.jpg

http://pic5.picturetrail.com:80/VOL92/800986/1418510/16602568.jpg

:D :D

[Poindexter]

Meesh, Thank's for your tip--I will look into some higher-quality shocks (these TT plastic things don't look like they'll hold up to too much abuse). So you are only running two shocks up front? I'm wondering if it's not easier to just worry about tuning two shocks in the rear as well. Maybe a set of Mugen big bores or some Kyosho shocks would help.

Also, where do you guys buy your Ofna wheels/tires from? The LHS doesn't carry OFNA products, and the one that does always asks for part numbers so they can "order" me the parts. I'd really like to just order a set myself.

On a slightly different note, my EK4 didn't come with the starter hex for the MSJ starter--but I noticed that the MSJ flywheel is rather large and it looks like a starter wheel from a starter box would reach it. Are there any drawbacks to using a starter box?

Thanks again!

[pistole]

Hi.

Good to see that the Thread is moving a bit now.

Bye and safe runnings.

[Meesh]

The MSJ flywheel was designed to allow use of a starter box. I have never personally tried it but some say it works fine. ;)

[Poindexter]

Is anybody here racing the EK4? I bought it to race the "Super-MT" class at my local track (I replaced a T-Maxx....), and am really looking for advice regarding handling, etc. I am ordering the diff cases, with Hyper 7 diffs, and will definitely replace the shocks, but so far, no one has given me a definitive answer regarding the shocks. I guess I'll have to experiment. I'm thinking Mugen big bores with Kyosho Kanai (blue) soft springs and 40wt oil...

Also, is it true thta if I run the smaller-diameter (and lighter) Ofna-type wheels I no longer have to worry about the clutch? If not, has anyone tried using the aluminum clutch shoes from, say, a Kanai II or the Mugen aluminums?

Regarding fuel tanks, any ideas? I'm thinking of trying to fit a Tera Crusher tank (160cc, I believe), or even having one made from aluminum--any thoughts? 4 minutes of run time just won't cut it during 12 minute mains....:D

[pistole]

HELLO ....................

Anyone out there .....................

[Meesh]

This issue has bothered me ever since I bought my Ek4. The hinge pins fit so loosely in the upper and lower arms, it's a wonder the thing will track straight. Well, tonight I fixed it I took her all apart last night to install my Triple H chassis. I measured the hinge pins, 5/32 diameter, and went to the Hobby shop today. I found some 3/16" outside diameter brass tubing with an inside diameter of 5/32".

When I got home tonight I drilled the holes in the arms (upper and lower) where the pivot pins go with a .185" diameter drill, this gave me a slight press fit on the tubing that measured .1875". I cut some pieces to length and deburred the ends and put a slight chamfer on the end I would be pressing in. Pressed in the tubing and presto! I had a nice tight fit on the hinge pins. I took it one step further and put brass bushings in the plastic arm that bolts to the diff housing and holds the end of the pins of the lower arms. The suspension now has "Zero" slop in any of the joints!
:D :D

http://pic5.picturetrail.com:80/VOL92/800986/1418510/16863430.jpg

http://pic5.picturetrail.com:80/VOL92/800986/1418510/16863405.jpg

[Mt killer]

I don't get enough time with it !!! LOL! I feel like my truck is running perfect right now (knock on wood) But I cannot find any time in my schedual to run this puppy!!! I find it almost impossible to time when to charge my batteries. What happens if you over charge your radio and Battery pack? I run mine for 12 hour charge times! :D

[NitroOwnsYou]

Allrighty! On the shock setup, Ide run the four shocks in the rear. The rear is heavy, and the truck will torque load the rear alot. I broke one of those cheap ass shocks, and tried running 2 shocks with I think it was 40 wt oil and hard t maxx springs(not super hard springs, and dont remember the rate of them) and it did not work well at all. even 4 shocks its still quite a bit of weight on the rear. Remember the T weighs about 7.5 lbs stock, and the ek is 13 lbs, so the weight difference is a considerable difference. Also 1/8th buggy shocks are geared for a 7-7.5 pound buggy. this MT is a bit heavier.

As for the Hyper 7 gears, they work the balls. I have no clue what amount of fuel I got on them w/o any mods to the cheap original diff cases since I started that fix. Just one tip, if you use oils in the diffs, get some silicone or teflon tape and put it around the set screw. I should have added that little tip in the Diff fix post, but totally forgot that. For racing, Ide use a light oil/grease in the rear, and a bit heavier in the front giving you alot better conering ability and letting the rear to diff out and the front to pull it throught the turn.


Ok now to the clutch setup, Ive never had great sucess with alum shoes in powerful engines. They didnt work nearly as well as std shoes on my JP Racing Pro 99, and heard poor things about them on the .70 . For the smaller wheels, yes its a tad better on the clutch, but also you will be able to use some race ready rubber like bowties or step pins. Big help there.

JR

[oohnoo]

HiHo Meesh
Fantastic Idea with the brass bushings! I've had that same problem with one of my other cars and now I know the fix.

Just a FYI. Use some graphite lube on those pins to really smooth things up.

[wetspot]

Iam running into problem with clutch shoes on a ek4 what is a good replacement ang where do you get them Iam going thru stock clutch shoes fast as Ican put them on, and now cannot find them anywhere authous,ehobbies,hhh. they have none in stock any sugestions Thanks

[Mt killer]

I find that I burn them up when I run my truck in a small area. I run at a BMX track and gravel pits now. I find that the the clutch does not heat up as much when you drive in open areas. other then that I have not came up with a fix for this.

[Gas_axe]

Hi gents, Got a New EK4 today and have some basic questons for you.
A)how do I know I have a mark 2 EK-4 whats the differance between the mk1 and mk2

B)Running in, I have Quickfire 10 fuel ????? is it any good and hows the best way to run this baby in. Is it true you run them in on tick over for a couple of tank fulls and them at full speed very rich

C)Can you run your radio gear off a six cell battery pack instead of a four cell battery pack, will this damage the servos/reciever

As you can tell I am very new to Nitro cars, maybe this EK-4 is not a good truck for beginers

[NitroRookie]

one sure fire why to know if you have the new EK-4 V2 is that the Heatsink on the engine is bigger than the first EK-4. Another way to find out if you have the new EK-4 is the body color the new EK-4 has two more body color choices "Red" and "Blue" are the new colors. You should run 20% car fuel on a very rich setting or 30% Heli fuel in the EK-4 since the engine is a .70 Heli engine.

P.S. I don't personally own a EK-4 yet. But I'm seriously thinking about getting one. All the info above I've picked up for several different Message Board that talk about the EK-4.

[pistole]

before you do anything else , please visit

midmad.com


There is alot of info there about the EK4.

As for the VERSION 2 , please see my thread there :-

http://www.midmad.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=1654



where I outline the stuff that has been happening vis a vis the VERSION 2 that I have.


Have fun !!!!!


Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

posted above about my VERSION 2.

You will see that :-

(a) the Cylinder Head is extra large , round and looks like a
dustbin ,

(b) the pressure nipple on the muffler is nearer to the manifold than to the exhaust outlet,

(c) If you remove the air filter ( and the little plastic elbow below the filter ) there is an aluminium insert in the throat of the carb ( that is removable and would probably come out with the elbow itself ) ... this is a restrictor. If you have this , there it is probably safe to say that you have the Version 2 ( note , not the S2 . the S2 is just a plain old version of the EK4 ) .


Be careful about what you buy ... some have made mistakes already by thinking that they have the new car when in fact ,they don't .


The new car is easy to handle , a newbie like you can take it on , don't worry, we will help you along.


Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

As for your questions :-


1. If you have the VERSION 2 , any type of commercially available fuel of good reputation will do. No need to bother with looking for helicopter fuel. I have used GAMMALUBE and BLUE THUNDER , both 25 % nitro , both good and reliable.


2. The batteries. Do try to use the 6 cell packs made specifically for the Rx ( it is stronger and safer , no cells coming loose ). The 4 cell holder thingy will be okay for smaller cars but the EK4 uses an extra strong steering servo ( mine is rated at 12 kg ) .. so this drains the batt. quite fast. Be careful here on penny pinching , it does not help you in the long run.



Bye.

[Gas_axe]

Looks like I have been stitched up with an old EK-4,it has a very square cylinder head on it and is only about 1 inch high and reading all about this engine makes me scarred to take it out the box. In the instructions inside the box it does show a cylinder head upgrade you can buy, so would this turn a mk1 into a mk2 engine ?????? ,will take a picture of it tomorrow to confirm what engine it is

Also the running in thing ????????? if it an early engine how do I run it in "on ttick over or full revs?????????

[NitroRookie]

Gas_axe,

You would have to upgrade the Heatsink on the motor, The starting backplate on the motor, and the Diff housings on the gearboxes. In order to make your EK-4 a Version 2.

I think that is all you would have to uprade. But pistole can add something that I might have forgotten.

[pistole]

HI.

This was something that I was worried about ...... and which I had posted about in midmad.com's forum , ie , the confusing amongst the public about the :-

EK4

EK4 S2

EK4 S2 Version 2.


Please note that whatever is stated on the BOX ........ take a look at the CAR itself. This is the ONLY RELIABLE way to ascertain what on earth have you put your hard earned money on.

The Cylinder Head is the first sign , then

look at the g/box - does it have the through bolts with nylon lock nut

look at the carb , is the restrictor there

look at the starter assembly , is it a webbed rear starter back plate ( this is important !! ),


GAS AXE
________

I am sorry to hear about your car ...... but make the best of it (unless you can return the item) and read all the info at midmad.com and then try your luck at making it run.

I am sorry to have to say this , but , I have had stuff up on this thread about the V2 for ages ........ ummm no consolation I know.


Bye and safe runnings.

[NitroRookie]

PISTOLE,

I dad told me that the EK-4 should be the Truck I should get. Because of the longivity of the EK-4's power plant. Want do you think about this.

[Mt killer]

It is known in the Heli and airplane world that ringed motors take alot longer to break in. They have to be ran alot richer (more oil) making them different on tuning but not any harder just different and they last more then twice as long as none ringed motors. I have an original EK4 and I love mine. I have the MSJ head and starter plate. I put my own through bolts through the diff cases and I bolted them down to the chassis (bolts and nuts cost me $5 tops at Local hardware.) I have taken my time to find just the right settings and she has more power then she knows what to do with. I've even went from a 14 tooth stock clutch bell to a 18 tooth and I can still pull the front up at 30 plus MPH! At my local RC hang out I have had the pleasure of driving almost all of the new trucks first hand and nothing I mean nothing is close to this power machine. I redid my shock oil with stock set up and the handling is killer!! I don't even see a need for the MSJ 4 shock set up some may disagree but I have to say I cannot be happier with my EK4 version 1 Purple fury!!! :cool:

[Croozer]

I believe the version 2 lacks the performance of the version 1 (v.2 has a carb restriction), and it is very easy to see the difference in the two versions, the cylinder head is a dead giveaway, and with all the info online it is very easy to hop up a EK4 to better than stock durability.

I went out and found a v.1,I did not want the v.2,the only new EK4 I will buy will be the new "Unlimited" version.

If you don't like modding your truck and plan on leaving it in the stock configuration by all means get the v.2.

But if you like to tinker and modify for performance,grab a v.1.

[Gas_axe]

Your right Pistole ,I am a dummy ;) ,Mine is the EK-4 S2 mark 1 and I went back to the shop and told the gent there who rang the importer Amerang, while I was in the shop,they replyed with "the EK-4 S2 is the latest monster truck we supply and didnt know of a version 2 :mad: and the EK-4 has no problems with the engine at all, THAT THEY KNOW OF". I wish I had found this web site before I had found the model shop. This is my first experiance with I.C cars hope its not my last.

Anyway I have to work with the truck now, I have no choice,Thank you all for the info, will keep you posted on the break downs I have :)

[alvin1]

Originally posted by Gas_axe
Your right Pistole ,I am a dummy ;) ,Mine is the EK-4 S2 mark 1 and I went back to the shop and told the gent there who rang the importer Amerang, while I was in the shop,they replyed with "the EK-4 S2 is the latest monster truck we supply and didnt know of a version 2 :mad: and the EK-4 has no problems with the engine at all, THAT THEY KNOW OF". I wish I had found this web site before I had found the model shop. This is my first experiance with I.C cars hope its not my last.

Anyway I have to work with the truck now, I have no choice,Thank you all for the info, will keep you posted on the break downs I have :) gas-axe,i'm sorry to hear that you have been supplied a version1 ek4,i myself had many problems with info supplied from amerang the uk importer,sometimes they would denie all knowledge of a version 2 ek4,and other times,they would tell me that there was a version2 but they didn't know when it would be available,and finally,one guy at amerang got totally confused and did not know the differance between an ek4 v2 and an ek4 unlimited................so bearing that in mind,i decided not to buy one.thunder tiger and amerangs customer sevice is unfortunatly not the best when things go wrong,just look at some of the dedicated ek4 forums.however,thunder tiger do make some very durable r/c cars,i have had a thunder tiger rallycross car for two years now without any problems,its also very durable......................many people have had a v1 ek4 and had no problems with it,and you may well find that you are one of them;)

[Gas_axe]

Hi Alvin1, Hope your right about the EK-4, so far so good thou,Started the beast up today and took about five minutes to get it going, but it started in the end possably down to my lack of I.C experiance. Got through 3 tanks fulls of fuel and alot of fun already, I must say you need alot of space to run these monster trucks.

[pistole]

Hi. Great to hear from all of you.


Dear CROOZER
______________


Please don't be offended. I understand where you are coming from on this issue .... but my main worry is for the newbies coming onto the EK4 for the first time. She is not the easiest handling of trucks , I am sure you can attest to this.

Some of them will not know what hit them with the V1 ..... I am certain that most of them ( more so if they have never even owned a glow-engine car ) cannot handle the 3 needle carb ...

Just note the problems that FASTBANSHEE (over at midmad.com) is having with his V1 (and that is after its been totally hopped up with MSJ / 3H , etc , etc ). He can't even get the thing to idle and broke a starter rod in the process. This really smothers out your enthusiasm real quick. If you have no one to help you out , then you're stuck with a very very expensive paper-weight.

Furthermore , to be sold , as new , an old model when a new model is out is plain cheating on the part of the dealer/vendor. Unless you were expressly told that the V1 is here , but there is a new V2 , but the Store will sell you the V1 for cheaper ....... then you can make an informed choice. Otherwise , the dealer/vendor is just plain misleading you.

As for the 'de-tuning' of the 0.70 in the V2 ... trust me, she is so overpowered that you'll never notice the difference. No one to my knowledge has run the V1 and the V2 head to head ..... so we are all speculating here. And if you are really motivated , you can always just throw away the restrictor if you want to.

Lastly , a newbie would need to know at the outset how much it would cost to upgrade his V1 with all those trinkets from MSJ / 3H.

Just check out the prices and factor that into the equation. I mentioned before that in order to buy the MSJ head and g/boxes , I could , just about , buy myself a new V2. The maths just do not work out. Since GAS AXE is from the UK , he should check out MONSTERREADY.COM's prices , he'll have a heart-attack.

I know , I know , someone had told me that this is all about a 'passion' type hobby. Hey , if money is no object to you , then by all means , gold plate your muffler ............. LOL!


Like I said above , its the newbies that I am worried about. Us old hands will and can handle just about anything the truck throws at us ( my EK was drown in a pool of water yesterday at the park ......... took her to the gas-station , used their pressure-air-line and blew her dry - and she steaming along fine now ).

Hope you understand. Thanks.



Dear GAS AXE
______________

Your Dealer is plain lying to you.

Just have them check out the acehobby.com website. The V2 has been up there for AGES , I know because I have been asking them (ie , ACE) questions about the V2 since a long time ago.


And another thing , I never said nor wanted to imply that you were ' a dummy '. You certainly are not that at all. You were just misled by your dealer.


It is people like you that I like to help the most .... you're just starting out and I want you to be able to enjoy the thrills that we have experienced in our hobby.

We really like to help one another out here. Just keep posting your questions and we WILL try our level best to help.



Dear NITROROOKIE
__________________


What MT KILLER stated about the ringed engines lasting longer is absolutely true.

The engine on the EK4 is a ringed engine. Ie , the piston has a compression ring unlike the ordinary glow engine.

The ordinary glow engine , which is ring-less, uses a tapered bore to 'pinch' the piston as it rises to top dead centre. Not to put down the 'ordinary' engines , if you've seen a Novarossi/RB Concept buggy 0.21 engine perform , you'll be suprised at the sheer power of these engines.

The 0.70 just requires more time to break-in. You'll need to be a bit patient here.





Bye and safe runnings.

[Croozer]

pistole:
No I am not offended in any way and I see what you mean when you talk about newbies to the EK4,by all means they should be steered to the v.2.

I picked up my v.1 with the MSJ starter and head,servos,radio,and 3 sets of tires/wheels for $475 and it still has the stock diffs in it and they have never broke,BTW I don't think the EK4 has anymore problems than any other r/c truck out there,if you check various forums you will see this also.

But remember that everyone does not properly set-up or break-in their trucks correctly then they post there problems on public forums bashing their trucks when the problem started with them.

[RC Jack]

Croozer, the EK4 does have problems that other monster trucks don't have, namely, the drivetrain. It was made for a .21, not a .70 and that's a lot of power to put thru a chunk of plastic and expect it to keep its designed tolerances. The aftermarket alloy gearcases remedied that, I know, 'cuz I had the first alloy cases ever made months before anyone even considered making them. http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=85334&highlight=bulletproof+ek Outside of that, there are no other major problems other than the clutch and I've fixed that too, using Vespel. Tho, there are a lot of other materials that can be used, such as the synthetic brakeshoe lining from an 18 wheeler, which works really well, tho it's brittle. The rest of the truck's problems are the same as other monster trucks and most of those depend on how you run it. These trucks are heavy and something will take it's toll somewhere. You can't beat these trucks like you can a stadium truck and expect it remain in one piece for long. Keeping this is mind, you'll really have some fun with your EK!!!

[pistole]

RC JACK
_________

Yeah , I remember your hand-made diff cases. They were like works of art. Till today , I cannot imagine the amount of work that must have gone into them.

I bow down at you feet ................. seriously.


As for your comment about the EK4's drivetrain ...... I do appreciate that putting an 0.70 into a chassis meant for a 0.21 is kind of like puttting a Ferrari V12 engine into a Go-Kart and expect everything else to hold up .........

[ Here comes the advertisement ... hey TTR , you owe me .... ]

But , I have to say that TTR have done their homework with the V2 ...... she is genuinely more reliable and easier , all round , to handle.

I would only hope that STEVE P could do another test with the V2 and publish a report .... at least we will have someone authoritative doing the test. You can pay me later , STEVE..... LOL!

Some of those earlier horror stories posted by the likes of HOOLIGAN still make my toes cringe.


But , thus said , I am throughly enjoying my EK ...... no other truck is even close to it , in terms of sheer power and eye-appeal. When I bring it into the store for something , everyone crowds round to see what on earth is that huge thing ............. When I tell them that that is an 0.70 engine and that the engine in your teensy-weensy road car is a 0.12 .... well , they kind of just gasp. Priceless !!!!

By the way , why do I not see you at MIDMAD.COM 's forum? You should hang there ..... thats where all the EK-ers go for the EK fix.



DEAR CROOZER
_______________


Thanks.

I was worried that I may have offended you. I am just concerned that the newbies will have a tough time with their purchases , what with Christmas just hours away ..... no better way to ruin it than to have the gift refuse to start , etc , etc.



ANYHOW .............. happy holidays and stay safe.

Bye.

[RC Jack]

Pistole, sorry, I have to make a correction here. TTR didn't do their homework........the suckers who bought the EK did all of the work at home, so, I guess that makes it, er, homework. It wouldn't have been so bad if TTR/ACE had been upfront and said something like, "We're marketing a new type of monster truck, unlike anything else and we'll work with you to iron out the major problems" , but, that didn't happen, so.........

TTR may owe you, but, you might have to get with Judge Judy to collect on that one.:D :D :D

[Gas_axe]

OK update so far, first outing the truck started first time and we run 3 tanks of fuel through her. Today came to start it and it would run for 15 to 20 seconds and cut out, then the starter snapped off the back of the engine "O great!" no playing for me untill after Christmass. I am going to return the Truck to the shop and try for a refund or try and get a MK2, its a shame it looks so cool as well :(

Why wouldnt it run in the first place ????????????????????

[Mt killer]

I have to say that I have never used the stock starter if you drop me a private message with your e-mail I would not mind sending you the starter! (if I can find it LOL) If you decied not to go with a different truck this will at least get you by until you can get the MSJ starter. There is nothing like a Ek4. I understand that some have had and some still have some issues with the truck. However I don't mind sending you the part for free so you can see why this truck in my opinion is the best that it gets. just let me know. :cool:

[NitroRookie]

What is the best nitro fuel to use in an EK-4 between the two mentioned below?

I have two quart size bottles of Blue Thunder Race Formula Fuel that hasn't been used yet. It has a nitro content of 20% and an oil content of 10-12% is this fuel any good for the EK-4. Or should I save this fuel for a different Nitro R/C and pick up a gallon jug of XP 30% Pro Heli Fuel.

This is the Blue Thunder Race Formula 20%
http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/shared/productimages/100/DYN2210-100.jpg

Anyway the XP 30% Pro Heli is green in color and has a oil content of 20%.

[pistole]

Hi.

RC JACK
________

I am trying to imagine 'getting with Judge Judy' .......... hey , I am not that desperate , ok ? The old bat looks like a dried prune on amphetamines.

Try imagining Henry Kissinger in bed with Madeline Albright ... that'll make that Christmas dinner come out instant !! LOL.


I appreciate what you mentioned about the buyers doing the homework for TTR .... sounds about right there. It was really unfortunate ... TTR had a shot at the big time with their EK4 and they basically blew it with shoddy first round work. Well , its TTR's loss ...... all those thousands and thousands of T-Maxxes running around is proof of this fact.





GAS AXE
________

This is the stuff that I was worried about when I heard that you got the V1.

What did you use to start the truck ? Did you use an airplane starter+rubber cone+starter shaft ......... OR did you use a cordless drill (with the starter shaft clamped into the chuck) ?

If you used the Drill ...... I did post a warning somewhere here about the rigid nature of the chuck grip that snaps the starter adapter behind the engine's backplate ... the problem is that there is no available flex to allow the shaft to move axially.

The normal airplane starter setup is better because the rubber cone acts as a simple universal joint to allow the shaft some 'give' and also acts as a slipper-clutch when there is hydro lock in the engine due to fuel-flooding............

As for your engine , where did the shaft break ? At the joint ?

Did the balance of the shaft go into the engine ? You have to be careful here.

And lastly , remember to lightly oil the starter shaft's ball end ... this prevents binding , which results in breakage ........ I also posted something about this earlier ...............

I know all this sounds overwhelming.

But , do try returning the thing ( do not know whether they'll take it back since you've run almost 5-6 tanks of fuel through it already) ........ if you can't , then get the starter from the Store or from MT KILLER ( nice of you , brother ) and replace it.

Raise hell with the Store ..... bring the whole family down there. Accuse them of cheating you , threaten to complain to the Consumer's Tribunal ( if you have one ) , threaten to sue them, threaten to get Uncle Jim to come down and burn down their Store.............. you get the drift.

Let us all know the name of the lousy dealer that sold you that truck ....... we'll let everyone in RC all over the world know about them........ then we'll see.


Bye and safe runnings.

Happy Holidays !!!!!!!

[Mt killer]

I use a 9 volt drill with torque control. I also highly recomend the MSJ starter. once you break your EK4 in you will not be able to go with any other truck. you will miss all of the power and nothing comes any where close. I know becuase my friend owns a Hobby shop and even he says he isn't going to be satisified until someone comes out with a Titan that has that .70 with wheelie capabilities. But he has a EK4 as well! Hang in there it is well worth it !!:D

[NitroRookie]

Pistole or MT killer,

What fuel do you recommend I use in the EK-4 V2 ?

P.S. I'm going to be getting an EK-4 V2 for myself and there is nothing no one can do about it. There are a number of reasons why I'm getting an EK-4 V2 I can only think of the Main reason for now. The main reason is the Longevity of the EK-4 Engine.

[Croozer]

I've heard that Coolpower 30% works good.

[Mt killer]

I use cool power 30 % as well. You will also want to get rid of the stock glow plug before you even start it. Go with an O.S. #8 plug. This will make break in super easy. I also find that this plug fuel combo works year round for my EK4. You also want to get a an MSJ starter ($45) roughly because the stock starter sucks. So Before you decide on getting the EK4 read eveything at this site.

http://www.midmad.com/index.html

This will help you make sure that you are really wanting an EK4. This truck has more then Three times the power of any other Monster truck out there. With that being said the drive train will take a beating. Once you drive it nothing I mean no other truck is even close to it.
:cool:

[NitroRookie]

It will most likely be around june 2003 or longer before I can get my EK-4. Buy that time the V2's should be available up here in Canada. Because the guys over at Greathobbies said they will be getting the EK-4 Version 2 Sometime in the spring of 2003.

[pistole]

about with the V1 .......


http://www.midmad.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=2069



Just be careful and safe runnings.

HAPPY NEW YEAR !!

[Mt killer]

When you buy a used nitro just like in real cars you never know what has been done to that motor before you got it. In that particular case Fastbanchee could replace his motor and still be better off for what he paid for that truck. He has more hop ups that I have seen offered! I know a few people that have the old trucks and have had not problems at all. Myself and my next door neighbor and a few other guys that run at my local bmx track. just to name a few all old school EK4s running cool power 30% and the right plug keeping em rich and no problems. I'm the only one with MSJ hop ups. :)

[pistole]

Here we go again :-




http://acehobby.com/acehobby/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3215





Be careful with what you buy out there.

Bye.

[RRRoamer]

[QUOTE]This truck has more then Three times the power of any other Monster truck out there. QUOTE]

Actually, it only has about 20% to 30% more POWER than a good .21 car engine. What it DOES have is about 3 times the TORQUE. There is a huge difference. The .70 is based on the TT heli engine which is designed to make a lot of torque and peak power at about 16000 rpm (vs 30k to 36k for a .21). It was never designed to be a moster horsepower engine (such as a ducted fan engine which makes huge power up in the 30k + rpm range). What does do VERY well is make tons and tons of low end (and high end) torque for yanking the nose of the truck up to the sky any time you want it to.

[shmotz405]

i just got my ek4 today used for 450 with radio and starter,actually very slightly used...like a quart run through it, im yet to drive it but i know itll blow the sheeit outta any of my friends cars, and yes that is a pop can there

[pistole]

Hey , SHMOTZ , join us at :-


http://www.midmad.com/forum/index.php



and have fun !!!!!!

[Mt killer]

Is there a lager set of tires out there for my EK4? I have the monster pirates on it now. They are wider but not taller. However I would like to get some that are wider and taller. what do you guys think?

[Billsky112]

Hello just wanted to let all know that the V2 EK4 is now in stock
at Heli-Kraft.com $495.00 shipped. That will be it for me for a while
Tmaxx 2.5, Thunderquake with XTM 24.7 & now EK4 V2.

Later

[Mt killer]

Looks like you got a great deal on that! If the V2 is anything like the V1 in performance you will probrably only drive the EK4!! that has been the case with alot of people over at the Mid night madness forum!! let us know how she runs. :D

[ek junky]

Originally posted by PITSTAIN RC
i use wildcat heli-mix 15%nitro 18%oil it is just about perfect hey ek owners, i'm new on the block w/ this forum but i have been reading these forums for a while, its great. i just wanted to say that it is ok for people to run 15% nitro in the .70, but what i have heard and experienced is that 15% will make the .70 try to produce hp by using heat from the engine rather than the nitro! with the 30% it makes power from the nitro,,, big difference! what it will do is make your engine heat fluctuate more than if you used higher nitro fuel!not that you can't make carb adjustments,but for me the 30% nitro, 18% oil is the bomb!!! fyi,,, i got that info from ace hobby! :cool:

[ek junky]

Originally posted by muswagon
What would cause these connecting rods to let go? You would almost think the engines were revved without load or something.

Where should my needle settings be for initial breakin. I dont have a temp gauge, so i want to be careful. I put it to 2 and 3/4 but want to hold off for some advice before the initial firing. hello muswagon
the only info i can give that might help is if you live in a colder regi on. i live in chicago land area, and my current needle settings are mid flush , low about 2 out from closed and my high is at 4! these settings are alittle rich for me but after i run about a half tank she'll start to pop wheelies. and also remember that when you make adjustments move needles only 1/8 of a turn at a time, and give settings some seconds to set. with those settings i can hold my hand on msj head after running the whole tank! and another thing more nitro content will give more consistent settings and run times. nothing less than 18%oil ! oh yeah make sure you change your muffler nipple location,,,, closer to engine works better 4.5 inches from the front of muffler (outlet side)!;)

[NitroOwnsYou]

I have yet to move my exaust pressure fitting, and still make as much if not more power than any EK Ive seen. My EK pulls wheelies from first pull of the trigger on a new tank, till the tank was dry. Maybe the move makes it easier to tune, but the other setup workes fine for me.


JR

[ek junky]

Originally posted by Mt killer
Is there a lager set of tires out there for my EK4? I have the monster pirates on it now. They are wider but not taller. However I would like to get some that are wider and taller. what do you guys think?
hello mt killer
i was also thinking of the same thing. i called a few places and found that the only thing you could really do is the mt3 rims and the tires that were offered for that rim size. unfortunately all the tires that fit the mt3's are all pretty much the same heigth,and shorter than stock ek-4's. i heard of one guy talking about clodbuster tires which are supposively bigger, but i myself do not know! good luck and please post if you find something,,, i will do the same!

[ek junky]

Originally posted by Mt killer
Looks like you got a great deal on that! If the V2 is anything like the V1 in performance you will probrably only drive the EK4!! that has been the case with alot of people over at the Mid night madness forum!! let us know how she runs. :D
you got that right,,, i have owned just about every truck out there , and my opinion is, ek4 is thee most awesome truck, i have ever drove! you guys should try the halogen led lights! they work awesome in the dark! nothing cooler than watching head lights raise up everytime the beast pulls the wheels! and you can see about 10 to 15 feet in front of you,,, even cooler watching it jump!

[ek junky]

Originally posted by NitroOwnsYou
I have yet to move my exaust pressure fitting, and still make as much if not more power than any EK Ive seen. My EK pulls wheelies from first pull of the trigger on a new tank, till the tank was dry. Maybe the move makes it easier to tune, but the other setup workes fine for me.


JR
hey nitro
thanks for the reply,, which state do you live in?? i have also set my needles to where i can lift wheels right away but chose not too ,, cuz i was too scared to over rev, and overheat! do you have after market head? just trying to figure out why ace hobbies says to move it?! they also say that lifting the gas tank heigth to 32 mm, helps performance also! currently i moved the fitting,,, and to compensate for the fuel consumption i added another tank! 125cc i just strapped that sucker to the top brace area and bingo bango,, 15 to 20 min run times! i even outlast the savage w/ its .21 and huge gas tank! i believe they are 160cc. not too bad in my huh!!?
holla back

[ek junky]

Originally posted by NitroOwnsYou
I have yet to move my exaust pressure fitting, and still make as much if not more power than any EK Ive seen. My EK pulls wheelies from first pull of the trigger on a new tank, till the tank was dry. Maybe the move makes it easier to tune, but the other setup workes fine for me.


JR
hey nitro
thanks for the reply,, which state do you live in?? i have also set my needles to where i can lift wheels right away but chose not too ,, cuz i was too scared to over rev, and overheat! do you have after market head? just trying to figure out why ace hobbies says to move it?! they also say that lifting the gas tank heigth to 32 mm, helps performance also! currently i moved the fitting,,, and to compensate for the fuel consumption i added another tank! 125cc i just strapped that sucker to the top brace area and bingo bango,, 15 to 20 min run times! i even outlast the savage w/ its .21 and huge gas tank! i believe they are 160cc. not too bad huh!!?
holla back

[NitroOwnsYou]

I live in New Hampshire, and yes I run an MSJ head. Helps alot, but you still have to watch the case temp right under the head. The msj head will read 180, but right under the head, it will read 220 degrees for me. I always posted my temps in both those positions. that is perfect for my truck. I still havent done anything to the gas tank either. It works fine in the buggy's there, why not the EK?

Heres some pics.......

EK4

[NitroOwnsYou]

EK4

[ek junky]

Originally posted by NitroOwnsYou
I have yet to move my exaust pressure fitting, and still make as much if not more power than any EK Ive seen. My EK pulls wheelies from first pull of the trigger on a new tank, till the tank was dry. Maybe the move makes it easier to tune, but the other setup workes fine for me.


JR
hey nitro
thanks for the reply,, which state do you live in?? i have also set my needles to where i can lift wheels right away but chose not too ,, cuz i was too scared to over rev, and overheat! do you have after market head? just trying to figure out why ace hobbies says to move it?! they also say that lifting the gas tank heigth to 32 mm, helps performance also! currently i moved the fitting,,, and to compensate for the fuel consumption i added another tank! 125cc i just strapped that sucker to the top brace area and bingo bango,, 15 to 20 min run times! i even outlast the savage w/ its .21 and huge gas tank! i believe they are 160cc. not too bad huh!!?
holla back

[ek junky]

hey nitro,
so all in all we have pretty much the same weather! why in your opinion would thundertiger (acehobby) recommend that those items be changed? to be honest i never had the chance to run truck w/ stock head to say if the whole problem was the head to begin with, but my ek runs great, and it has msj head.