Kyosho Landmax Forum v1.0

[Pr0k]

eheheh Maybe we need to go on a quest!! Might find a Chic-fil-a too!

[Redfox]

I believe SHITE is a word that nicely sums up what i just did! Am i having bad luck or am i just a retard?!

I started takin apart the landmax to clean it up and prepare it for some onroad modifications. Anywayz i picked up the 3 bearings i needed for the clutch bell and they fit in there like a glove! I've fastened the pulley back on (btw the instructions show a washer in between the clutch bell and the pulley... is that necessary, cos i didn't notice one in there before...)

So it all went back together nicely... then i realise that the needle valve assembly is loose and like swivelling around. So i went and got the cross wrench thingy and tightened it up (the brass fixture) and i f**king broke it! It snapped inside just where the thread starts. So basically i have a non working carb cos i ******* broke the brass hex valve screw thingy ( i don't know what it's called!!!) and to top it off, the instructions show that part with the number 6520-03 but it doesn't come up on the tower search!! The part apparently includes the whole high spd needle assembly, but i dunno what part number i'm lookin for cos i 6520-03 doesn't exactly look like a part number to me! So if anyone could help me find the part number for this, i'd much appreciate it! Or else i could get a whole new carb. How much do you reckon that'd be?? What kinda carb should i look for??

I made up some new wheels last nite. I got the 15 spoke white wheels and i had a spare set of the rally tires and i found some awesome foam with a silver heat reflective backing on it. Anywayz now i have a full set of wheels and they are pretty hard. They feel like they are pumped up =] anywayz they were just an experimental set cos since i'll prolly be moving to radials or slicks in a while then i felt that i could experiment with these wheels and tyres. I am interested to find out how "pumped" tyres handle with this car...

I also saw a porsche 911 body today in the hobby shop, but it was a super 10 size body. I know theoretically it doesn't fit the landmax, but it looked about the right size! So 3434, seeing as you got a super ten (you do don't ya??) then mebe you could tell me if its the right size. Just curious, that's all...

I'm also quite serious about getting a mill, cos my school had two of them and they got them from one of my good friend's dad. So i am gonna ring up my mate and ask if he has one. The ones at school i've used b4 to mill out acrylic. They are unreal and the CNC programming is hell easy. Infact when i left the school i don't think they were being used! So i might go back and ask if i can have them or buy them for a severely reduced price!! hehe =]

Anywayz since i ain't got a workin engine anymore, i'm just gonna have to work on lowering the car and makin it road spec =]

Chill out pplz =]

Chris

[ecatbox]

you can search on "6520" at tower and it will list the available parts for the GS-21...unfortunately, it looks like an all or nothing deal...high end assembly is not listed so you have your choice of the 7 or 8mm carbs (same price too)

LXAVV9 6520-43 Carb, GS-21R, 7mm, new style
LXAVV5 6520-39 Carb, GS-21R, 8mm, optional for new style

you can pick up the 8mm and be the coolest kid on your block...or something...

superten bodies have around 280-300mm wheelbase (depending on make) so would come up a bit short for us (325mm)...they are also not quite as wide as we need...btw, i did some checking on the serpent bodies...the cars have a 300mm wheelbase also but i guess the bodies with flat sides could fit...so if you want a mclaren or porsche GT1 style body it might be workable...i will do some more checking on that one...

i would kill for a nice landmax 911 body...a REAL one (930 style), not these melted lookin 911s they sell nowadays...kyosho, are you listening???

[Redfox]

Ok, for once something has gone right for me!! Hehehe, you know there were these two guys in the NitroReview landmax forums from sydney australia? Well i got in touch wiv one of them last nite via MSN and he told me that he also busted the high end needle assembly and he was able to get the part from Wings n Things which ain't too far from me. Anywayz i rang them up today and believe it or not, they got it! And it's only gonna cost my AU$18.95. I'm a happy chappy now!! =]
Also i was speakin to my friend last nite (the guy wiv the CNC mill) and he still has one, so we might set it up in the next session break and try to machine some custom made landmax parts. The cool thing is that it can mill steel, so aluminium and carbon fiber will be no problems!
Later, chris =]

[Redfox]

****... you're not gonna believe it... i just went to the Tower website and checked up on the part number the girl at the hobby store gave me for the needle valve assembly... cos when i gave her the number i had, 6520-03, she came back and gave me the "new" part number 6510-27 and then i just found out on tower that it's the needle valve assembly for the GS11R... crap. ARGH!! things never seem to go right for me... well i'm gonna go in on saturday and see if they have it! If not i guess i'll have to get a whole new carb! =[ although AU$60 for a new carb doesn't make me happy!!!! ****.
Ok i'll update my situation when i work somethin out!!!

[Redfox]

You know what's weird tho... i just found the pullstart assembly for the GS21r on tower for US$49.99 which is essentially AU$90, but in the hobby shop in the city, the gp20 pullstart is only like AU$35!! now how is that possible?! =]

[somedude2187]

It depends on the taxes that imported items face, american warrenties stuff like that. This is why most japaneese car compaines charge less if you buy them out of japan. Example the landmax 2 is 450 us dollars but you can buy them in japan for 330.

[ecatbox]

theres that, and theres also the fact that tower is WILDLY overpriced on some things...fer instance, a new GS-21 lists for $185 on their site...which nobody in their right mind would pay since you can get a better engine for half that...if you want to see something funny, compare these two links...

1. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=KYOC2591&P=7

2. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=KYOC2574&P=7

which would i rather have? hmmmmmm...

[3434]

Hey Red
Had a super ten but that is long gone. Still a few memories laying around. I looked at the exploded view of the carb and the bolt looked like the same as a GS11x-r. But I have them and they are different. Even checked with Ripmax they don't have them any more either. Your going to have to find some hobby shop that has them in stock. Good luck!

[Redfox]

MP-6 brake set for sure bukkake! hehehe

I went to the hobby shop today and they sed that they can order that part in for me but it'll take about 2 weeks. =[ so i guess in the mean time i can't run the car, which'll give me time to clean it up a bit i guess...

=[

[ecatbox]

oscar's car:
http://***********/gp20/misc/oscar-rocks.jpg

what he's using:

FZW036 -pilot shaft (superten w/ 4-stroke) - fits the 40 also
39666-03 -clutch shoes used on superten 4-stroke
39666-xxx -gears for clutch bell
FZW035 -lightweight flywheel from superten
FZW37 -clutch bell (2 speed-superten)

he says the lightweight flywheel made a BIG difference (as far as rev-happiness goes i guess)

only downsides: still not fast enough for him (with 20T low gear, 22 is too high but 21 may be just right-he will try it this weekend) and the clutch shoes don't last long (working on that too)

[Pr0k]

Looks sweet, not sure it will ever have the speed though. Which would be fine for me BTW!

[3434]

NIIIICE! Thanks for the pics I like that. That could work. I have the 666s tranny but I don't think there is much difference.

[ecatbox]

should have mentioned hes using the GT-30 with that btw...i have seen a movie of his car in action and it ain't exactly slow (too fast for Pr0k anyway)

i think the 39666-05 bell (superten 2-speed 2 stroke?) will fit 2 stroke cars...28mm long and 7mm teeth and uses the same gears as the one oscar's using...13-22 tooth low gears and 17-26 high...wide enough for ya?

another pic of oscar's car:

[ecatbox]

p.s. forgot to mention...oscar said to check out castlehobbies.com for some of them same parts from a company called FORM. much cheapa

i notice they have some kyosho/landmax parts also...prices not so great but good to know in case of emergency

[3434]

My bell is a little different. Not sure about all the differences between the 666 and the 666s but they use the same pinions. I think its on the daily sale right now. Still have two problems. Engine is to big and I dont have a lot of movement. And I'd like to get more out of a set of clutch shoes.

[ecatbox]

i think the only real difference between those two superten bells is probably the length...the 39666-05 is 28mm and the FZW-37 is 23.8mm long according to tower...guessing this is due to the longer physical size of the 26 and 40 engines which also requires the shorter pilot shaft (1" long for that FZW-36 shaft compared to the 1.25" of the stock GT-30 pilot shaft and 3/4" stock single speed shaft) to fit...not sure how much the flywheel is a factor but from what oscar said they sound pretty much interchangeable...

hopefully they are both big enough in diameter to accept the standard clutch shoes if one were to sand down both sides until they could squeeze in there...i suggested that to oscar as an option and we'll see if he sees any problem with it...

[3434]

This is the bell I have. It's 23.75mm long or darn close to it.

[3434]

It came with this tranny.

[3434]

His looks more like this one.

[3434]

Hope this works. Its the only way I could get it here. From 75 Kyosho catalogue

[ecatbox]

just had to work that last one in dincha? hahaha

[3434]

What are you doing up ? My system is all screwed up after working two and half days strait. Thats the one I tried to get on the other day. Thats the wide version kit #31348X.

[ecatbox]

i think i am gonna order a 39666-05 bell and a set of 17/20 teef tomorrow...you said it hit the pilot shaft (or was it da shoes?) and came up about 3mm short but didn't mention if that was on the GT-30 shaft or the GTW-40 shaft or the stock one or what...but i have a dremel and am not afraid to use it...if i have to i'll get a hyper 21 (sg shaft) so i can bypass this pilot shaft crap altogether and MAKE it fit...those things supposedly pull 38K rpm anyways = DANGER DANGER

[ecatbox]

i keep vampire hours...too hot during the day to be awake

i'm telling ya...send those big scans to landmax@*********** ...i got 3MB free in the inbox at the moment and would love to have bigger versions for the site...you will be doing the world a favor (and me)

make a bogus yahoo account if you don't want me to know your email address...

[3434]

I have every thing in front of me now so ask. No clutch shoes involved GT-30 shaft bell is 2mm of the table. I never owned a GTW-40 shaft just the mounts. One more thing this bell is only 10mm deep compaired to the GT-3O 13mm. Clutch shoes might hit.

[3434]

I can't say I don't want you to know it. Just don't want it out there. Still a little rough at this thing and I don't have a Yahoo account. Haven't used the scanner that much and AOL did a number on it. But thats another story.

[3434]

The bell idea I had was a duratrax bell. Forget which model but the bell is dtxc7136 didn't work. Bells deep enough but only 9mm of thread. One thing to try might be an HPI bell 2nd is 6.5mm and 1st is 5.5mm, 25mm overall.

[ecatbox]

ehehe cool...sounds close enough to me...i have a nice 3 shoe flywheel/clutch setup coming for an sg engine (which i don't have yet) and i could always grind that nut down a little to whatever height i need...and yah, i could tell by looking the actual bell part of it is thinner, 1.5mm or so off each side of the regular clutch shoes wouldn't be too hard though...will the regular clutch shoes fit inside there diameter-wise?


edit: eheh i was thinking that you were thinking of some serpent bell or something..check this out...3 speed tranny off kyosho's new (as yet unreleased) .21 monster truck...probably so undergeared on a landmax it would wind out at 30mph but you could tow full size cars with it...saw a BMT 931 3-speed on ebay once but it went nuts at the last minute...

http://***********/gp20/misc/cap002.jpg

[3434]

HPI and the-05 are 26mm id. GTW-30 bell is just about 26.5mm id. Doesn't sound like a problem.

[ecatbox]

awesome..thank you my friend

[ecatbox]

wow eight pages of this crap...this is a milestone

[3434]

I was thinking monster trucks earlier in the week. T maxx was no good but the duratrax looked good on the blow up. Now I'm thinking v-one-r. But can't find any dimensions. The bell looks shallow though. I'm gonna crash have to finish my car and paint a body sometime today.

[ecatbox]

sleep tight...discovery channel or golf puts me out everytime

[ecatbox]

clutch bell and 16/19 teef added to cart (no 20)...should be about right...the 21/24 sounds like the hot tip for your car, now i just need to talk you into a .40 TWO STROKE ehehe

(don't think i haven't thought about it)

[Pr0k]

Well I manged to pull the rope out of the starter so no running today. I will be rebuilding it in the morning, atleast i hope i can do it ehehe. If you have any helpful hints let me hear em!

[Pr0k]

looky what i picked up on ebay. BRAND NEW OS max 21 RF-B 3.5cc ENGINE !! Eat your heart out Bukkake this thing has to be 10 years old.

[3434]

Originally posted by bukkake
clutch bell and 16/19 teef added to cart (no 20)...should be about right

Did you order those gears and bell yet? That whole trans is on the daily sale for about $75.

[ecatbox]

yep...bell, gears and $69 (with special stock number) extra GT-30...few other goodies and my $15 "i am an rc addict" discount...ordered this morning, shipped today...gotta love tower

[3434]

Wasn't sure what the parts were worth but the trans comes with the bell 19 and 13 tooth.

[3434]

Where did you find the picture of the three speed? First gear looks like the one on the 7.5

[ecatbox]

ahh i gotcha...the bell is $28 (ouch) and gears are $17 each (ouch, ouch)...got the 16/19 and thought real hard about 21/24 before deciding that would be seriously pushing it...think the 16/19 should be good as the car launches pretty hard now even starting in second (16t)...and i have to double check my math, but 30,000rpm on 19/50 worked out to ~84mph when i did it the other day...

now just have to make it fit...

edit: the pic of that 3 speed is from a little "spy" movie of the truck that was floating around a while back...

[3434]

If you knew somebody with a super 10 you might have been able to unload the rest. Thats the only reason I have a TR-15. I was looking to buy a new GS15R at $150. The TR came with the engine and the whole kit was $150.

[ecatbox]

ehehe nice how that works out...i have seen a few people on ebay that stocked up at that price and now sell them for the bargain price of $200...looks like a neat car too, i was surprised 10th 4wd buggies never really caught on back with the old inferno 10 and such...

[Pr0k]

I found this while looking fora brace for my little traxxas.Graphite Radio tray, front brace and Center Diff coverfor my Landmax, 25 bucks shipped!

[Pr0k]

New Imprezza Body, and asst other goodies, now if my buddy would build those shock towers...heheh

[ecatbox]

goood news...got my stuff from tower, looks like the clutch bell will work with some minor mods...about 2mm off the fat end of the GT-30 pilot shaft will get the bell part up against the flywheel...shoes should fit inside directly or with minor sanding of the sides, and i'm THINKING that flipping the motor mount plates around to the "OS position" will put me in the neighborhood of the spur gears, making up for the slightly shorter length of the new bell...more details to follow

[SixVi6]

WooHoo!! I got my Landmaxx 2..

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_01.jpg

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_05.jpg

Looks good so far. I'll have more pics as I build. I can't wait.. I'm starting it now!! :) :cool: :D

[Pr0k]

Cool we will be looking forward to your posts. Went up to Bukkake's place today he showed me what I was doing wrong while trying to replace the starter spring. Was doing it ass backwards!! ehehe well live and learn wasn't able to run the lm today cause i forgot to bring the stupid one way bearing with me. So we chased the neighborhood kids with my little 4tec. DAmm i love this stuff!!

[SixVi6]

More pics.. in order from start to where I am currently on the LM2. I was not going to assemble it this weekend but the weather is so great today! mid 40's and rain and thunderstorms I had nothing better to do.

OK here they are.. I'm posting them as links cause I sure as heck don't want ot clutter up the thread with this many pics.

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_01.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_02.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_03.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_04.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_05.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_06.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_07.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_08.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_09.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_10.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_11.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_12.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_13.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_14.jpg

I now have to set up the linkages, finish the shocks, the rest of the radio gear, cut some old t-maxx foams up to use in the max2's tires and glue them on and it will be ready for break in. I'm still deciding what color to paint the body though. I can't wait! It had better stop raining tomorow evening..

[ecatbox]

verrrry nice...i like the play by play, just wish i could enjoy that NEW CAR SMELL...keep the pics comin...oh, and let me know the KYOC number for that subaru body if you run across it in the documentation anywhere, wouldja?...i will wait until later to pester you for a copy of the manual...and 3434 will be after you for the 2 speed kit instructions you will inevitably get...ehehe...

anyways, enjoy..don't forget your throttle return spring and loctite (don't forget to hit the screw for that ball end on the carb!)...hope the rain stops and you can get it dirty...

[SixVi6]

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_15.jpg
Woo.. The size difference between my HPI Rs42 and the LM2 is impressive. The NRS4 looks cute next to the landmaxx 2. lol..
Here is more..

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_16.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_17.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_18.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_19.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_20.jpg

lol.. I love that new car smell. The fresh rubber tires, the plastic, mmmmm and I've gotten a throttle return spirng waiting to be installed and I just have to change the configuration of the RX pack that I have to fit in the batt box and finish up the linkages and it will be ready to run.

interesting note.. I also opened up the engine. really clean inside. No dirt or shavings in site. I've opened up other engines and have seen some horrible stuff but this was actually really nice. the negatives.. well a not so great round con rod and ABN conctruction and a tiny throat on the carb. the heat sink head is nice and has a really thick head spacer on it. The porting and machine work on the sleve and case is excelent. I did radius the inlet and outlet of the carb and on the pipe and header, also trimmed the header gasket just a bit to match the exhaust port and did a bit of work on the crank. It should really help get this thing moving.

The part # for the Ru Bod is 39161.

aahh.. soon it will be running.

I just realized.. in normal writing and when talking about the Landmax I keep putting 2 X's at the end like its a t-maxx lol..

[SixVi6]

WooHoo! its ready to be broken in. I found out that my nice futaba FM radio gear is on its last leg. I'm not upset over it because I've been using this radio gear for 6 years now. but now I'm using the nasty radio gear from my smallblock maxx. lol.. a stock traxxas RX and a Transmitter from a MiniZ. looks like I'll be buying that JR XR3 that I've wanted sooner than I thought. Oh well.. its all working and just about ready to run. All I need to buy is a fuel filter. Next I have to focus on the body.

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_21.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_22.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_23.jpg

[Pr0k]

Looking SWEET! I think you will like the XR3 BTW have one myself.

[ecatbox]

sweet...can't wait to see it painted and ready to rawk...decided on a color yet?

p.s. thanks for the number but i got that one, just can't find the KYOC one, no big deal, just makes it easier to find on tower

[3434]

How about a big KYOC2407

[SixVi6]

I heat cycled the engine a few times in the garage over the afternoon today and it finally stopped raining! Its rather cool out still but the streets dried out a bit. So I ran the car good and rich driving slow through 2 tanks. I've yet to nail the throttle of course but just being at part throttle I can see this will be a lot of fun.

hmmm the body. I took a good look at it and the decals. It looks great and has nice detail in the body and it would be a shame to not use those really sweet decals so I think I'm going to paint it just like the real Ru WRX. Probably tomorow I'll go and pick up the paint, a good fuel filter, and a JR XR3. Not having a good epa on the crap miniZ controller that I'm using at the moment makes me nuts. It works well enough on the beater .15 t-maxx but this bad boy will need something a lot more adjustable.

[ecatbox]

3434- i think i love you, you sure you aren't looking to adopt a clean, quiet 30 year old son?

vi6- i was imagining you heat cycling the engine at 4am out on the balcony..ehhe

you are gonna love that thing...we ran Pr0k's little nitro 4 tec the other day and it was fast and all, but i guess i'm spoiled now...i think the landmax is my ideal rc car because it's big and heavy and handles more like a real car than some little "on rails" tc

and i know what you mean about the paint...hard to resist using all the goodies they give ya...looking forward to seeing the end result



clutch bell progress: ground about 2mm off the back of the GT-30 clutch nut with dremel and the thin cutting/grinding wheels, will have to knock the flywheel pins about 2mm back into the flywheel (BSW-22) and grind about 2mm off the back of the clutch (KC-45) and the bell will fit and leave about 7mm width of usable clutch...with the picco mounted with the little plates in "OS position" it looks to be just about right...maybe a shim here and there and we will be in bidness...and i may as well pick up a set of 21/24 teeth because i know i will eventually anyway

[3434]

You did mention something about cutting the lawn didn't you.

[3434]

Don't order those pinions yet. Got something else up my sleeve hopefully I'll know by Friday.

[ecatbox]

hehe stop teasing...i am almost there...think i will pick up a palm sander and some 60 grit to clearance the clutch..ahah..btw i noticed the instructions that came with my new spare spare GT-30 are different than the other ones...and they have the 39505 listed...weird

p.s. vi6, forgot to ask if you had checked out the diffs and their drive gears...thinking you probably did, but if you didn't you probably should...make sure the diffs are shimmed up nicely so there is just a tiny bit of backlash between the drive gears, slop on some more grease if necessary etc etc...

i notice looking at the LM2 exploded diff diagram emrys sent me that it shows o-rings at each end of the diff so i assume they build em that way for you...if you get real inspired you can fill the diffs with silicone oil like the buggies...i haven't played with it too much but think i will start with 7000 front and 1000 rear

[SixVi6]

Actually yes I did pull all the diffs out and apart because I was curious and had to see how they go together and I'm pleased to report that Kyosho built them beautifully. the diffs and gears had a coat of grease and it was all set up really nice. No binding or excessive play in anything. I was quite impressed. I'll probably check the play in the gears after I get it broken in good to make sure nothing loosened up.

lol.. heck if I would not get arrested for the noise I'd be out right now finishing up the breakin and doing some high speed runs and suspension tinkering right now with the landmaxx. :) Also the handling on rails thing of the TC's is cool but they are too fragile, low, and small and if you check a curb or hit a rock in the road and the car flips and crashes. After the crash, if you are lucky, it drives away tweaked but most likley it will be broken. I'm thinking the LM won't have any problems. TC's seem to be built just enough to work, 1/8 scales are overbuilt.. thats the way I like it.

lol.. darn it.. I still keep putting the double xx's at the end of LandMaXXXXX... stupid Traxxxxas and their repeating letters. T-maxxx... Maxxtraxx.. SuperMaxx.. lol :)

[Redfox]

Drool... me want a landmax 2 really really badly now!!! Those black arms look so solid.... and everything looks nicely arranged... which is more than i can say for the original... my LM has **** everywhere!! lol
I'm still waiting on the needle valve set for the carb! Oh my... i haven't fired up the max for months it seems!!!! hehe
I was thinkin of getting a TC next year... but i might get an 1/8 buggy instead... lemme know what ya reckon guys.
Laters,
Chris

[SixVi6]

I ran the LM2 today with some friends at work during an extended lunch because I came in early and had to stay late. Two of the guys have pretty well stock t-maxx's and one finally has his constantly broke and waiting for parts MP back up and running. We have a ramp set up in a dirt field and there is a fresh parking lot right next to it.. anyways. I ran tank #3, rich and still slow and eazy in the LM2. Then let it cool. While it was cooling I ran my .21 t-maxx just to shut up the MP guy up. After a good 30 mins I shut down the maxx and broke out the LM2 and ran tank #4 a little leaner and did some mild part throttle roll on tests and WOW! Its one fast Rc and its stock.. out of the box wiht a stock engine and it handles great. must get the body done and get good radio gear. I'm going to my LHS to get the XR3 I called they are in stock. I'll also get the paint... ohh I can't wait! I fricken love this thing!

[Pr0k]

Yeah there is nothin like a new toy to get the juices going. There is just no comparing the LM2 to any 1/10 car I have seen. Of course I have the original LM and still like it alot. :p :) :D

[Redfox]

Heya fellas,

well i am still trying to work out some issues wiv my LM. Do any of you know if there is a kit that i can buy to upgrade the steering on the LM to a bearing set??? or at least something that has very little movement around the steering posts...

Cos tonite i noticed that a lot of the slop in the steering is from movement in the two steering posts... particularly the one that isn't the servo saver. So if you know of how to fix this up, then i would appreciate it if you let me know.

Also, i think i need new brake discs... lol is it true that nitro will screw up your brake disks??? Like mine are still solid and all, but they have heaps of circular scratches all over the faces and they are generally in a crap condition. I think they might've been the reason why the damn thing never stops anymore!! not to mention they have castor all over them... hehehe lol...

I think i'm gonna order in the stainless steel brake system, IF053 or tower LXT697. Do you think these are a good choice??

Another issue is the rear shock tower? What is a good replacement part for that? cos i have noticed that the tower has warped because of the upwards pressure of the shocks.

I have already sussed out shock towers and i found the product on tower LXV272 and they are aluminium front and rear shock towers. I think... it sez it's the kyosho shock stay set inferno. Is this for the buggy?? and if so, will it fit on the LM??

Also, do i need to put a washer between the clutch bell and the fan pulley?? cos the diagram in the manual sez that ya do, but i never noticed one in there b4, i think...

I'm still waiting for the needle valve set so i can get it up and running again =[

Thanks for ya help fellas...

Cheers,

Chris

[ecatbox]

you know you can dye the arms right? it actually makes them stronger too...i have some used ones i simmered for probably an hour+ and you could bend em but i doubt you could break em

ball bearing steering kit is KYOC5777/BSW-86 but i think tower is still out of everything good for the time being...it's a good upgrade though, and well worth picking up

the mp6 brakes should work nicely...i will expect a full report if you get them of course...i also hear the duratrax 6 disc system is nice...

there is a replacement carbon fiber rear shock tower KYOC2752/GTW-9 but tower doesn't have them listed...best bet is probably to make one from 3mm alumin(i)um

the inferno set you mention has the alumin(i)um front and rear shock towers for the buggy...the rear one is a little different and doesn't have the rear body mount parts on it...

and washers never hurt...you can throw one of the small ones from your "racing box" in there

and finally, because you apparently didn't see it before (ahem)...

the parts list (freshly updated with more goodies to waste money on naturally)

http://***********/gp20/GP-20-parts.txt

[3434]

The duratrax multi-disc brakes are still available from Tower and they seem to work OK. But I really don't have a lot of time on them. The shock towers are done here but they seem to be available in the UK if you have any connections. You might even be able to get them.

[SixVi6]

WooHoo!!! damn! The body is done. Its came out excelent! I thought it was going to be a disaster though. I began to paint it and the spray can blew up. All the paint sprayed out of the top so I put my hand over it and ran around the house to the garage. Yes My hand is now blue. lol.. Luckily I still had two half cans of the same color left over from other paint jobs and got it painted. Then after probably 2+ hours of cutting out and placing decals I have this!

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_24.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_25.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_26.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_27.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_28.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_29.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_30.jpg

All I have left to do is cut a cooling hole in the front, back and side window. Sniff.. Its almost too pretty to run now. (I did say almost. lol.)

[Redfox]

Unreal! =] ok... now i really really want that wrx body! Lol...
Good job SixVi6!

Hey about cutting out the hole in the front windscreen, i don't think you really have to! Like i know it would be ideal for the airflow, but i haven't cut the front windscreen on my escort. I just cut out the front two windows and it looks schweeet. Cos really, if ya think about it, the body is pretty damn big and i'm sure there's plenty of airflow in there. Does the LM2 not have a cooling fan (i know they do f!@k all, but still....)??

Hey bukkake, thanks for the steering part no. It sure is hell expensive eh?! i can't see myself paying AU$60 for that, but i really want it so i think i'll just close my eyes when i'm paying! lol =]

I just checked out the duratrax multi disc braking system, and it looks lush! It's only a bit more than the Mp-6 system, and i would get it except it is too big. It wouldn't fit in the LM even tho it might fit an Mp-6. Cos if ya look at the radio tray there is only a small cut out for one disc on each side. I suppose i could modify it to fit in the extra discs, but then the fuel tank is also in the way. I reckon it'd be too much trouble to try and stuff it all in. I'll just get the Mp-6 brakes.

I will call the hobby store to see if i can get those parts.

Later ppl,

Chris

[3434]

You mean like this? Its not real bad but I have to cut more for the aluminum trans brace.
Sorry for the poor scan. Let me try something else.

[3434]

This is a little better.

[ecatbox]

yeah you will have to clearance the radio tray anytime you want to run that many discs...it's not a big deal, that aluminum cuts LIKE BUTTA

3434-can you try this pic again and send it to me?

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=574593

[SixVi6]

... Thanks man! I'm really pleased at how the body came out. I cut a couple large holes in the whindshield and rear windows as well as both front side windows. I'd rather be safe and get good cooling. There is no cooling fan on the 2's and now I see why the LM's have one. This engine runs pretty hot.

... I raced my .21 maxx against my LM2 today. A friend of mine from work drove the LM2 and I handled the .21 Maxx. It was close. The LM2 would lag behind initially but then catch up to my .21 T-maxx really quick but fall off in top speed. The maxx had an edge over the LM2 but the t-maxx is a bear to control on the pavenent at high speeds. :eek: It makes sense though. I geared the T for more speed, weight wise the T and LM2 are close to the same, but my T has a much more powerfull engine + 2 speeds over the LM2. So I guess my LM2 needs more hop ups!! lol..

Ohh I also took another pic of my LM2 in the sun.. The damn thing looks like a real Rally car is parken in my driveway.

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_32.jpg

[Pr0k]

Yes sir, looks like you did a really nice job all the way around. Kyosho makes some of the nicest detailed bodies IMHO. BTW nice camera angle it does look like a real rally car in the driveway.

[ecatbox]

indeed..looks very nice, just like the real deal and almost as dangerous to spectators..eheh

[Redfox]

******* the kyosho mp-6 brake set costs a lot!!! I just called up the hobby store and they was AU$47 for it!! lol... the tower price is $16.99 which is only about AU$30... so i'm feeling very ripped off.

I still really wanna get it tho, although the guy sez that the uni-crank steering that bukkake suggested is gonna cost me AU$62 which is a pretty decent price since tower wants about that much (i'm not saying tower is a good price tho! LOL :) )

Anywayz i have already put the brakes on order and i will get the steering later so that i won't lose a whole chunk of money really quickly and hence feel guilty!

So next time i have the LM up and runnin wiv the new needle set i will have new stainless steel cross drilled brake disks on it. I will be sure to put up a full report on how good they are (although anything beats castor covered nylon brakes, lol).

Til next time amigos... =]

[SixVi6]

Yes.. OK I started a quick site to toss my LM2 pics and a few links on. Its still rough but at least now the pics and the links are in one place now. I'll continue to clean it up, improve it, and add more on those rainy days when I can't run my RC's just like today.

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/index.html

Oh yeah I'm going to experiment wiht some differrent weight silicone diff oil over the weekend. Any sugestions on what weights I should try? I did a search and saw that most are running 5000 front, 7000 center, and 1000 rear just as a baseline in their 1/8 buggies So I'm going ot start there.

Also What effect does it have? Example if I put 7000 into the front will it oversteer? Understeer more or what? I know it will transfer power more evenly to the ground resulting in better traction or in the case of the center diff transfer power more evenly to the front and rear but how will that effect the handling? I like how the LM2 handles out of the box except the diffs unload a bit too easily for my liking.

on a side note.. the smallblock T-maxx is ready to sell I should have another $450 to blow on the LM2 by the weekend. I'm thinking of shocks and an RB 086 pipe and get a 1/8 scale starter box and other stuff in preparation for the future engine whatever that my be. hehehe..

[ecatbox]

now thats the kind of rc junkie talk i like to hear!

site looks good, i especially like the maxx vs. maxxx shot, never had a chance to compare the two in real life...

as far as the oil, setup you mention should work well, i haven't had much of a chance to play with it yet but harald (hf racing) had mentioned using extra stiff oil in the front and picking up some steering...i guess the thicker you go, the more that end acts like a solid axle, so when cornering, the slower-turning inside wheel tries to slow the outside wheel and helps tuck the front end in...or something

as far as shocks, the IFW-30/31s are VERY nice if you have the money...i recently acquired a few sets of the 31s and they are sweet...teflon coated shock body + teflon piston = one smooth shock...think the LM2 uses the shorter shocks front and rear so you probably want either the IFW-30s or the BSW-72 ones mentioned in your optional parts list...either should do nicely but the BSW-72 are really the "bang for the buck" choice ($40 per 2, springs included vs. $60 with no springs for the IFW ones) but the IFWs are silver, slippery and very, very sexy...ehehe

[SixVi6]

Dang.. the silicone oil filled diffs works great. A must do hop up IMO. It does help in the steering a lot. Before the diff oil it would unload one wheel i the turns and loose a lot of steering and speed comming out of a turn. Now it transmits the power a lot smoother and gained a good deal of on throttle steering. I used what most of the buggy guys use as a baseline starting point. 5000 front, 7000 center, 1000 rear and I'm going to try some thicker stuff in the center diff next.

Well today I found a small club that races in a parking lot at a school on saturdays. there was about 15 cars there total and races were mostly just for fun (most of them were whole families out to race rc's). I ran with the single speed mild mod TC's and Super Nitros. It was a blast but the stock tires stink for pavement driving and I found myself using the throttle and powersliding through the turns. Yeah, it looked cool but I wasted the stock tires. Three are totally bald! So I ordered up some New wheels and radial tires from Tower. I'm hoping these will stick better on the pavement so I won't be doing the power slide style driving or else I'll be buying tires by the case!

I also tried the Megatech .21 buggy pipe that is on my t-maxx onto the LM2 to just to see the difference and OMG!! what a difference! That stock pipe is crap! Next item to buy is a pipe for sure.

[Pr0k]

Glad to see you are enjoying your new car! I have been running my lil 4 tec the last couple weeks due to one thing or the other, the Landmax has been down. Got the replacement shock tower today, and tomorrow is suppossed to rain all day so it will be devoted to getting the Landmax ready to roll. I have aluminum radio posts and the Graphite Radio tray, front brace and Center Diff cover. and a couple new wheels and tires to put on. I might even get motivated enough to mask and paint the new subaru body I picked up. Keep us updated on your car, looks like the LM2 is a real winner!

[SixVi6]

A lil 4tec yeah. Its just not the same as the LM's. I really notice now how much the lil TC's get tossed around and beat up by every little bump in the pavement. My LM2 so far has crashed really hard twice and taken out one SNRS4 is a pretty spectuacular crash and nothing has broken. Its really good in the strength department. I've also accidently jumped it pretty good and have had no problems at all. I have a ghood 1/2 gallon through it so far.

I've started to scan the LM2 instructions. Pages 1-17 and 32-37. Also I have the complete GS21R instructions up. Hopfully it will all be done and up by the end of the weekend.

Here is a link to the pics and scans page (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/pics.html)

[ecatbox]

eheh yah...a tc hits a tiny rock at speed and goes flying, landmax just runs over it..don't worry about jumping it either, i think you will have to abuse it more than that to break something...

well done with the LM2 instructions and stuff, all us poor folks are grateful...how long will it be til you have the 2 speed? (ehehe)

p.s. yeah the stock pipe is VERY restrictive...open it up and you will see why...i dremeled off most of that baffle and it works better (still has good bottom end too) and doesn't sound as "coffee can-ish"...real pipe will still walk all over it though

[3434]

Originally posted by bukkake


3434-can you try this pic again and send it to me?

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=574593

Where do I send it to?

[ecatbox]

landmax@*********** for all things landmax

[SixVi6]

I tinkered with the suspension a lot today. Changing positions of the shocks and the links and am now running with 1* rear toe. I'm adding a piece of upswept lexan to the rear wing for more rear downforce at speed. I wish there was a 1/8 on road body that would fit the landmax. It would be a heck of a lot better at speed. Oh well.. make do with what you got. After I get it all set up nicely and get some good shocks its 2 speed time.. but that is all pending when Tower gets them in stock. And I picked up a Stock GS Storm Pipe/Dynamite .21 pipe for $15 at MaxxTraxx. Dirt cheap and a heck of a lot better than a stock pipe! lol.. I hacked up the stock pipe the day after I got the LM broken in. mine now has about a 1.5cm onpening in the baffle. It helped marginally and will be trash as soon as the new pipe gets here.

Darn cold weather! I crash tested the LM2 today on accident. Its about 45*F here which makes high speed runs hard to acomplish on a regular street with bald tires. I was running flat out at high rpms, Spun, and hit a really large curb. The car went flying and landed on the front and flipped several times on the concrete then slid for 10 feet on its lid. when it hit the curb you heard a loud CRACK!! I thought I split it in half but the only issue other than scratches on the body was the servo saver jamed in the full left position. I simply pushed the steering back to where the Saver's cam droped back into place and Done. I'm Impressed.

[ecatbox]

cool, glad to hear nothing got destroyed...the LM2 a-arms look to be pretty beefy and made of that nice near-indestructible plastic, prolly break a tie rod before you could snap one...dunno if the lunsford MP 7.5 turnbuckle kit would fit the LM2 but the hingepin set definitely will...there's another upgrade to waste some money on...gawd i love this hobby

made another tower order...have the 7.5 front carriers and little steel collars coming and i wanna see if i can fit them to the LM1 a-arms and use my overpriced fioroni knuckles...uses the same length pins (according to my cross refencing anyway) so should be doable...and if not i will save it all for the day i find a cheap LM2
ehehehe

[SixVi6]

yeah this hobby gets ya with the hop ups. Even when you think you have it all you dont! lol..

I have a recipe for everyone.. take one LM with bald stock tires a smooth damp cold garage floor add just a coat of nitro cleaner and what do ya get?

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/laynrubber.jpg

lol.. I was cleaning off an old engine with some nitro wash. Then fired up the LM I was holding it in place and I gave it a bit of throttle while warming it up and the tires spun a bit.. I noticed a bit of black on the floor. so I stopped in the leftover nitro wash and water leftovers and nailed the throttle. It left a nice 4 wheels burnout mark!! lol..

I also updated the LM2 (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/index.html) site a bit. I jsut added some recomended hop ups and info and listed my curent setup.

[Pr0k]

Haha the things we do when bored Six!
Well I used part of Sunday to start adding my goodies it was slower than expected due to a flying e-clip! Got some new ones On monday at rippoff rate from the LHS. Had a running ordeal with UPS all day so I was so pissed last night I can't remember where I put the screws to the aluminum radio posts! LOL will go to hardware store tomorrow.

[Pr0k]

Got some nice highcarbon stainless screws at the boat supply house down the street. Had to do some more slight mods on the radio tray, seems it was cut for a non 2 speed. It was binding at the brake and front gear. I am figuring this out as I go, hopefully I won't need to get Bukakke to bail me out!

[SixVi6]

I noticed differences in the radio trays on the the LM's and LM2's vs the buggy conterparts. I Hope the LM2 won't need any mod's to get the 2 speed into it.

Aluminum radio posts.. I was thinking of getting some also from my LHS yesterday but they wanted $14.50 for 4 of the Kyosho ones. Eeek.. tower has them for around $10.00 even with the shipping it would be cheaper to get from tower. I also got my High Grip radials and 5 stars form tower. Yeah! I like! lots more grip.. One problem though I lost a bit of top speed because the radials are about ~3mm's shorter than the stock rally tires. I put the word out for a larger clutch bell among some online friends and picked up a used Kyosho 16t one for $5 which i'll get tomorow but today figured.. ahh heck! and ordered up an 18t from tower. I'll have the GS Storm pipe by tomorow too. I hear the Stock GS pipes is loud.. lol. I can't wait! Anyways anything is better than the stock pipe!

Also I was told by a guy at my LHS after seeing my LM2 run around the back lot that mine moves a lot better than the one they had at the shop for a while.. I told him that I did some crank porting and radiused the carb inlet. The rest is stock. I guess the porting must have helped a lot! It should be fine with a pipe and the 18t bell. I run it a lot in large parking lots so this sould be a lot of fun... :D

I took a few more pics of the LM2 and the Maxxx together..

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_33.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_34.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_35.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_36.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/maxx_45.jpg

[ecatbox]

nice pics, i bet that tmaxx can throw some sand...i have a rc10gt i will eventually set up as a .21 powered sand mixer, with some paddles etc...the kyosho "QRC" baja beetle looks like a real POS, but the body is awesome and will look fairly scale (albeit a little "mad max" with the crazy GT width) next to the landmax...kinda like a old tamiya sand scorcher but with balls, and really big tires..ehehe

as far as the 2 speed, just be sure to get the right one...GTW-20 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAVV1&P=7/) for the LM2...judging from the pic you shouldn't have to modify anything, probably have to move the fuel tank forward a little to clear the clutch bell same as with the LM1...also note the clutch bell they give you, 13/16...obviously way undergeared but it will make for some retarded acceleration, especially with a "real" engine...but the same setup i am working on (with the superten clutch bell) should work for you too...i will post full details/pics etc. here and nitroreview when i finish getting it in there...and a side note, i have used my 2 speed in sand and dirt (contrary to kyoshos recommendations) with no problems..."poor man's chassis protective film" (duct tape) on the underside to keep out rocks and you are golden...the one way bearing in there that allows 2nd gear to take over is pretty well protected inside 1st gear with a washer in front of it, so it doesn't see too much dirt...good idea to keep it clean anyway...the only other moving part is the 2nd gear hub/clutch mechanism and thats pretty simple...you could make a little lexan guard for it easily enough anyways...

and be sure your brakes are adjusted up nice...helps avoid those awkward "sorry, should i call the ambulance?" moments...

the radio posts are certainly expensive for what they really are, if you can find the fioroni ones (OT-BSW54) they are typically cheaper than tower's prices and a prettier shade of blue...and they may be 7075 but i'm not sure about that one...

let me know how the high grip tires hold up, seems like a heroin habit would be cheaper than getting hooked on those bad boys...eheh

got some goodies from tower today myself...the 7.5/LM2 carriers will NOT fit on the LM1 arms (which i should have realized from looking at pictures) but they will fit on the inferno or one of the wide cars...the ends of the LM1 arms don't extend out far enough to reach the hole for the lower hingepin on the carriers, not a problem with the longer inferno a-arms...and side note, burns/nitro crusher arms are too short also but are sort of in-between LM1 and inferno arms in terms of length and fit the stock stuff perfectly (the LM1 uses the burns carriers in front)...hmmm...extra wide landmax with nitro crusher rims and tires = car crushing monster peugeot!

p.s. you may wanna pick up the HD clutch (KC-45) next order, they hold up a lot better than stock, especially with tall gearing...im currently running the inferno with 15/46 gears and a stock clutch and it is something of a torture test for the poor thing...you can see where it's trying to squirm off the pins and escape to freedom...the KC-45 is wider and made of a harder compound

and p.p.s. any way i could get you to measure the height of the 7.5 servo saver/steering assembly?

[SixVi6]

hehe.. Yeah the Maxxxx can throw some sand, woodchips, snow, dirt, TC's, or just about anyhing that gets under its tires.. lol. Its expensive but man its a total blast! The most fun I've had with an RC! But for an All Round Rc the LM2 is there. If I could only have one it would be the LM2.

The 2 speed.. actually the LM2 is all ready for a 2 speed out of the box. The gas tank has a couple mounting positions already drilled on the chassis which the instructions have you use the more forward mount. but I think I may run the 18t and a good High hp engine first. It should have good aceleration and top speed all in one package and my friend reminded me on the maintence of an unenclosed 2 speed. I hated the 2 speed on my RS4 2 but the nice sealed 2 speed on the maxxx is great so I may just run with no 2 speed.

I'm currently running the 16t now with the good tuned pipe and I like! I have the speed that is had with the taller rally tires back and then some. The pipe is a low/mid power pipe and its loud! the loudest pipe I've ever heard.. I like that too! the engine runs a lot cooler now so I'm happy. I'll get a better header/pipe combo when I pick up a new engine.

lol.. Yeah I can hear that, "Ohh.. Well your foot is over there in the lawn. umm you can have the pipe because it looks good sticking out of your stump amd its stoping the bleeding." I've got the brakes covered, They are really good. I'm using the servo that I was originally going to use on the steering on my now in pieces HPI NMT.. hitec digital, something like 100 oz of total overkill total locking up the brakes power on tap but I dial some of it out.. I love this XR3! The high grip tires great so far. After a day of running about 4 tanks of hard running in a dusty parking lot they show little if any wear. Time will tell.

As soon as I dig up some kind of measureing device I'll measure the 7.5 steering.. My calipers are at my friends house and I can't find any tape measures. darn it! I did see that the good Ol' Tower has measuremants for the servo saver/steering on their site. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXVD37

I scanned the rest of the LM2 instructions and a small mid year product panphlet showing the LM2 and its features. I just have to upload them and update the site. Its supposed to be really nice the rest of the weekend for once so I'm hoping to get some good running time in for both of my .21 powered beasts. I'll probably need to buy another gallon of Nitro this weekend for sure.

[ecatbox]

cool, thanks...should have thought to check tower first

and don't blame you for wanting to stick with the single speed, it will be plenty fast off the line with a decent engine, and probably better suited to "dual purpose" type use...any thoughts as to which engine you might get?

[ecatbox]

just occurred to me that if i could fit the GTW-20 2nd gear (43T) on my GT-30, i could run a rather stupefying 16/26 53/43 setup...where is that 3434 fella when you need him?

[SixVi6]

OMG! 26/43... Yeah that would be a rather sick gear. Have good brakes and have any spectators sign a waver before you attempt any high speed runs.. lol.

I've got no idea what engine I'm going to run as of yet. I still have a bunch of other things to buy before that. Shocks, better clutch, steel diff gear, better ring and pinion gears to replace the cast ones, a better starter box and the motor mounts. Hopfully soon I'll have everything I need/want for it before the new engine has to be chosen. I have a side project right now on a body body swap on an old CJ7 that is paying very well and I have two HPI RS4's and a supermaxx .21 conversion to build and get totally RTR that are well paying deals also. Soo busy right now I barely had a chance to run the RC's this weekend! Oh well.. I'm making money.

[Pr0k]

HAHA You are a Wild Man Bukkake, only you would come up with that idea. Lets Do iT!@:D :D :D

[ecatbox]

eheh i know dat feeling...except for the makin money part...i am good at spending it though...

check this out...here's the same numbers as before but with the larger inferno/old-skoo supereight (959, calsonic etc) wheels and rubba...HMMMMMM

[ecatbox]

eheh and i just MADE a tower order...least those gears are only $10...the regular 46T MP5/6/7.5 spur could be made to fit, but theres no 23 tooth screw-on gear...so i guess i haveta go for the gold...i will figure out something

*drools thinking about what a 10 tooth jump would sound like when executed at 28K rpm by deadly picco/cvec combo*
http://***********/gp20/misc/959-ghetto.jpg

[ecatbox]

i could go 18/25 (or 19/26) and 53/46 though if the GTW-20 gear doesn't work out...let 1st push it a little faster before shifting....that is a real tall 2nd gear to pull either way and i will of course need an airport runway to see how i did...and there is no way i am gonna risk trashing the 959 body in the process...have to see if i can find one of those CLK bodies from the ofna gtp to mess up

http://***********/gp20/misc/ofna-clk.jpg

[3434]

Tried to tell you to hang on. Work got crazy and Dover is coming up this weekend. But I had ordered the GTW20-2 gear set and just got them Friday. I don't think they will work. They have a heavy offset to them . About 5mm on first and 12mm on second. Still in the package hook up with you later. But the stock spur from the LM2 will bolt on the one-way holder. So I'm guessing the optional one will too. What to do with second gear????. You are probably going to have problems with the clutch. I did this once with my GT. It wouldn't go five feet without melting the spur gear. Had to push it to stop that from happening. There are two more pinions SU16 24t and SU17 25t

[KIRK S. DECKER]

I was recently browsing through radio control zone when I found this Landmax forum...cool, i was beginning to think I was the only person who realized how great these unique cars are . I have had my LM1 (Lancia) for about a year now and during this time I have really thrashed on this car (while humiliating a few T-maxx and HPI MT owner I might add). Also during this time I have added many option and replacement parts (shck towers, bodies,etc) to my wifes dismay. Just recently I decided to use my LM1 to base a super-modifed touring type car (coincidently along the lines of the project put together by HF racing found in the earlier sections of this thread). This is a great site to bounce ideas off of you guys and get input based upon your experiences with the landmax.
Sorry for all the above rambling, but I do have a question concerning the current topic of drive trains...does anyone know if the two speed tranny (LM1) can be used with a three shoe clutch with option parts IFW-55, IFW-50, ifw-52, And IFW53....this would be for an OS rz reg thread shaft class of engine. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[Pr0k]

Although I have the 2 speed I have only the RG engine and it was installed on the car when I bought it. Bukakke and 3434 are in the middle of a fitting project right now so perhaps can answer your questions. I am a newbie myself but I love my LM1, pretty much bullet proof as opposed to 1/10th scale tourers. Post some pics of your car!

[ecatbox]

you came to the right place for rambling...we award points based on number of paragraphs and derailed trains of thought...tell us of your plans for your super-tourer and get caught up some (for valuable gifts and prizes)

lemme list the parts so we can keep this straight...

KYOC3528 IFW-50 Flywheel, 3 shoe type - Thickness: 10.5mm (20.9mm Including Pins)
KYOC3527 IFW-51 Flywheel, 3 shoe type, for OS with double brake discs - Thickness: 14mm (24.2mm Including Pins)
KYOC4712 IFW-55 Pilot shaft. for threaded engines, with groove for 3 shoe clutch
KYOC3013 IFW-52 Clutch shoes, for 3 shoe flywheel (3) washer included
KYOC3014 IFW-53/M/S Clutch springs, for 3 shoe setup, standard, medium, soft-3015

i don't see any problem with using the 3 shoe, shoes etc. should all fit under the GT-30 bell fine, may have to knock the pins in a bit, but that seems to have more to do with whoever assembled it...can i assume you are using the BSW-22 now? mine measures at about 14mm thick (as does the IFW-51 per towers description) so the 51 might actually be the right one for you to use...prolly wanna take a few quick measurements of the important parts of whatever you are using now to be sure...

i'm not sure how the "standard" springs compare to the others and i can't find the KYOC part number for the medium tension ones anyway (KYOC3016 comes up as ultima clutch shoes, go figger) so i guess standard is the way to go there...

should be a nice setup...i'd like to know how it compares to the KC-45 clutch in terms of performance and wear once you get some runtime on it...and don't be shy, we LIKE hearing what other people want to do with their cars (or at least i do, screw the rest of these jerks) ehehee

3434 - thanks for the info on the GTW-20 gears...didn't order em yet so you might have saved me ten bucks...thinking hard now about alternate 2nd gears...you can see the plain old 46T spur would be about perfect for 2nd too, it's just lacking a big hole in the middle and four more little holes in the right spots...course getting those little holes in the right place is the tricky part...

i think running a steel 1st gear would be a bad idea...even the fiber-plastic stock ones can chew up the steel bell, steel gear would prolly eat it in couple runs, and that superten first gear is aluminum...plus like you said, that doesn't leave many options for 2nd...also i want to keep 1st pretty low so i don't have problems like you mention with the GT, i don't think running a tall 2nd gear will be as big of an issue since the car will already be going pretty fast when it shifts...i will do some cypherin on that right now but i am thinking 18/25 or 19/26 isn't TOO crazy...just kinda shifting the ratios from too-close to "omg thats fast"...any decent engine should be able to pull a 18 or 19 tooth 1st especially with the 53T spur on the GT-30...as i see it, it's more a matter of how fast 1st gear gets the car going and what rpm the engine wants to drop to when it does hit 2nd...lemme run them numbers now

btw, before i forget, talked to oscar again and he reports the FORM superten 4-stroke 4-shoe flywheel and clutch setup is working nicely on his .40 lancia...he even picked up a little top-speed from reducing the clutch slippage with the old (stock i think) kyosho superten clutch (which seems about as crappy as the stock LM clutch, they are both 8mm thick)...i still think the narrowed KC-45 is the way to go but haven't ground mine down yet, too many projects at once, you know how it is ehehe

ok back to the numbers

[ecatbox]

ok, using 19/26 and 53/46 on LM1 with 3.5" tire diameter:

set to shift at 28K rpm, 1st gear takes it to little over 36mph, which corresponds to about 17.5K rpm in 2nd...so roughly 10.5K drop in rpm when it shifts, and top speed of about 60 at 30K rpm (or 78mph at 38K)...not too shabby

on an inferno or old supereight with 4.25" tire diameter, that works out to 51 mph at 28K in first, 8K drop in rpm (to 20K) shifting to 2nd, and 74 mph at 30K (94 mph at 38K)

all numbers from the extremely handy rcca gear calculator:

www.radiocontrolzone.com/cars/calculator.asp

[ecatbox]

lookee here...the 44T spur for 7.5/LM2 (IF-147)...same gear as the 46 less two teeth i guess...not too much use to me as it would stick me with 17/26 and there doesn't seem to be a 17T 1st for the bell i'm using...16/25 would work though, and i already have the 16! hmmmm, time for more math

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAWB7&P=7

p.s. 2002 kyosho catalogs are now in stock (as are some other goodies, like the unis)

p.p.s. added that gear to the parts list (http://***********/gp20/GP-20-parts.txt)

[KIRK S. DECKER]

bukkake


Thank you for the quick response and input. Upon further review of the clutch situation I run into a problem with the pilot shaft. The IFW 55 part has the the bottom of the nut "rounded" to allow the 3 clutch shoes to fit where as the twospeed pilot nut has a hexed bottom...no fit with thee clutch shoes. There is not a problem if both pilots are the same length to fit the larger double
pinion... a direct replacement with IFW-55 (i do not have demensios for IFW-55 to be sure though). If this is not the case I could always do a little "dremel" work to the included two speed pilot to resemble the IFW 55, but I do not have a pic or diagram of what this part looks like, and I want to be sure before I start cutting.... maybe I could install a Fioroni sliding clutch instead, but that is another whole can of worms.
As far as my experince with three-shoed clutches, I have one on my GS Storm buggy. Overall I have had less wear problems and slipping with this type of clutch. Also acceleration seems to be crisper...especially when you drill a 3mm hole in each shoe. Most clutches seem to engage too early even with the "sport type" engines and by lightening the shoes the clutch
"hits" much harder at a higher rpm. I found my self over leaning the bottom carb needle to get the acceleration I needed until I lightened the clutch shoes...this modification made a big difference.

[ecatbox]

you're very welcome...i think we all know how frustrating it can be trying to find the right part with kyosho's cryptic naming scheme and various other annoying things

but today is your lucky day, i happen to have a pic of IFW-55 here for you, fresh from last year's catalog...looks like a few minutes work with the dremel but nothing too major...can't find any dimensions for it either, but i'm pretty sure it's shorter than the GT-30 shaft...another option might be to use the BSW-59 "clutch bell guide" thing to make up the difference using the IFW-55...i would guess the IFW-55 is roughly 3/4" long like the stock kit shaft, while the GT-30 one is 1" long, and the BSW-59 is just shy of having 1/4" of usable 5mm pilot shaft on it to slip inside the bell...*edit* just realized you will have to make a groove in the GT-30 shaft for the springs too, maybe chuck the pilot shaft up in a drill and groove it with a file after knocking the edges down with the dremel


here's da pics:

http://***********/gp20/misc/IFW-55.jpg

and the BSW-59 just in case
http://***********/gp20/misc/bsw59.jpg

and i hear ya on the clutch thing, they also make a optional heavier spring for the KC-45 clutch (KYOC4222 for the spring) that i may experiment with later...i have to grind 2mm or so off the back of the KC-45 shoes to use my fancy clutch bell, hopefully won't need much more lightening than that...ehe...if i get real inspired later on (or suffer from melted clutch syndrome) i might have to try a 3 shoe setup...be a pain to grind 1mm off both sides of 3 clutch shoes though...ahah

[3434]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by bukkake
Re: 3 post bonus, triple word score [/QUOTE

To funny. I have been waiting for that new catalogue. The latest idea I have is to use our stock spur 51t for first and the LM2 spur for second. Kind of a pain in the butt though. I have a good mechanist so thats not a problem. But if I where out a spur then I have to wait.

[SixVi6]

LM2 instructions are all uploaded and good to go.. well at least the pages that have english on them. several pages had usage guidelines and blank notes pages that had not a single lick of english on them.

:D

LM2 Pics, Instructions, and more here.. (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/pics.html)

[ecatbox]

excellent...i will save all those for future reference...thanks again for doing that...

3434- i remembered you wanted one too, thats why i mentioned it...ehee

i ordered some more stuff this morning, LM2 spur in there too...i will see if i can't figure out how to fit one of these with some degree of precision...i was thinking about making some kind of jig to make replacements easier...the 44T might actually be a little small to properly cover the hub part of the 2 speed...the 46T leaves plenty of tooth hanging out, but the "lip" on the hub is a little large to fit inside the recessed part of the gear, so i might have to trim that down and kinda make the hub fit the gear instead of the other way around...the hole in the center of the stock 2nd gear is exactly 1.25" which corresponds nicely to my holesaw bought especially for making brake discs so if i could mount the gear to a piece of scrap wood, find the exact center and hit it with the holesaw, the hard part is done and i could glue the damn thing on...eheh

and now for something completely different...found this snooping around the kyosho japan site

www.kyosho.co.jp/models/car-gp/tr15rally/tr15rally-e.html

mini-landmax! what will they think of next

[evilGearhead]

ive been looking at buying a landmaxx, i already have a snrally, i know that the landmaxx has alot more power, and size, but the ground clearance is the same- can you drive a landmaxx through grass, and rough terrain at all? or is it a dirt-or-gravel only rig?
bcause my snrally gets stuck in my yard, and im looking for a basher, not a roadcar.
is it worth a look, or should i just buy an MT?

thanks

[Redfox]

Evil... >=], the landmax is a hell of a car! About the driving on the grass thing, yeah you can drive it on the grass... (although it depends how tall the grass is!) I took it to my old school in the xmas hols and it ran awesome on the grass oval there. Although let me warn you, it's prone to traction roll pretty easy if you drive it hard!
About the all terrain stuff, i think you'll be very pleasantly surprised which what the landmax can actually stand up to. It's definitely not an on road only car... i think the ideal environment is dirt and gravel, although i've run it through some pretty tough terrain and it worked fine!
It's got a helluva lotta grunt as well, and that's only wiv the stock engine...
But the decision is ultimately up to you, and if you wanted a real basher, i suppose the MT would do the trick nicely...
DOn't go past the landmax tho, cos it is a good combination of speed, agility, handling, terrain handling, and looks...
=]

[ecatbox]

yeah no tall grass, but regular old front yard grass is okay, even if you are as bad about cutting it as me...you can still get hung up on bumpy stuff but filling the diffs with oil like vi6 mentioned should help, since when you do get stuck, it's usually because one wheel is off the ground and spinning wildly...with the oil in, it acts more like a torsen or limited slip diff, and will spin ALL the wheels and help you get unstuck...it's a pretty capable offroader since it's really just a narrowed inferno

p.s. you know you can convert your SNR into a NMT right? same car with bigger wheels and smaller body etc

[3434]

Originally posted by bukkake


and now for something completely different...found this snooping around the kyosho japan site

www.kyosho.co.jp/models/car-gp/tr15rally/tr15rally-e.html

mini-landmax! what will they think of next

I posted about this on the TR-15 thread a few month ago. Thats what it is with different body mounts and front bumper. I think I need three parts to convert mine. And of coarse Tower says it does not exist. Try to get you some pics tonight.

[ecatbox]

always one step ahead! ehehe...it looks like it uses shorter a-arms though, i reckon thats the hard to find part...i think i will stick with the LM, that superten stuff is twice as expensive...haha

[SixVi6]

evilGearhead..

The landmax series are great overall but tall grass can be a problem even if its cut it will wil be slow going. The LM2 has a lot of ground clearance actually more than a SN Rally if you crank it up a bit more than the instructions say and unlike the HPI cars the Landmax 2 does not need a ton of hop ups to be reliable and really strong. I had/have 2 NRs4's, 1 NMT, 1 super nitro onroad, and an Electric MT (the EMT was the best of the bunch imo) and the LM2, stock out of the box, blows them all away in everything but the really rough stuff that the MT's can somewhat handle. But if you are looking to go into the grass. you might want to consider an MP 7.5 Sport over the LM2. If you want an NMT I have a stock rolling chassis NMT with a few extras I could sell you.

[3434]

A-arms are the same. Besides the body the chassis has a new part# TR-01B. But I think the original TR-01 is discontinued. Then the only other parts that are different are TR-10, TR-11, FT-22, FZ-19. The hard ones are the 10 and 11. When I have time I will try to find them.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

evilGEARHEAD

Overall the LM handles most surfaces pretty well (low grass, dirt, gravel, "rough asphalt",etc.), but it does not handle the off-road like a 1/8 scale buggy...the landmax can be thrown off of its line fairly easy by the rougher stuff, sometimes making percision driving tough and there is alot of four wheel drifting (even whe NOT trying to)...but this is what makes the car so fun; it handles like the real thing. If you ever seen rally racing on tv it seems like the cars spend most of the time riding just on the edge of losing control, sometimes power sliding into ditches,fences, and the occasional cameraman or spectator. I definitly recommend the landmax as it is the "premier basher".

[Pr0k]

Yeah there is a golf course Bukkake and myself pass on a weekly basis. Has a nice sand trap and a few jumps right near the road! HAHA has the word landmax written all over it. Now where did I put those fence cutters?

[ecatbox]

that would almost be worth the jail time...damb uppity rich folk wasting all that good land

edit* i still can't stop thinking about a quick blast through the mall

[evilGearhead]

ok, another question about the landmax, at tower, i see the different varieties of the landmax, but no landmax 2.. are all of them for sale landmax 2s? also, why do the prices vary SO much?
the lancia is $500, but the f-150 is $330, isnt the only difference the bodies and wheels?
also, kyosho shows a ford escort version available, which i think is sweet, but where can i find that one? tower doesnt have it.
thanks

[ecatbox]

tower organizes stuff weird...the LM2s are in "R/C Car Kits Nitro-Powered Off-Road - .16 & Up"

links for those:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXANJ3&P=0 (has the wrong pic)
and
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXANJ2&P=0

the LM1s are all in "R/C Car Kits Nitro-Powered On-Road -.16 & Up" on this page:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0093p.pgm?C=CBD

dunno how to explain the price differences between the LM1s other than tower being greedy and trying to get more money for the faster sellers...either that or they jack the prices on the ones that are running low in stock...the prices typically fluctuate wildly, but the lowest i have ever seen em new is about $340...i am too cheap to pay that though, bought all mine on ebay

p.s. the escort seems to be gone from their site...part number for the kit is KYOC0530 and tower says theres no such thing (=discontinued and already swallowed up by the black hole)...but you can buy the body for a mere 80 clams...eheh

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=KYOC2100&P=7

Pr0k has a painted escort body he might sell ya for cheap...and if you buy the alfa at $340 i will give you a fair price for the body set

[Redfox]

I got my escort before they stopped selling it at tower for $309... it was in the daily specials pages, so you might wanna have a look in there every so often just in case it pops in.

=]

[SixVi6]

Yeah tower and many other places including Kyosho call the Landmax 2's -> MP 7.5 Rallys or Subaru Impreza MP-7.5 with no mention of Landmax 2 but the instructions and the box have no mention of MP 7.5 Rally.. its called the Landmax 2. Confused yet? lol.. when I was looking into getting one I was really confused with what was what.

[evilGearhead]

ok, i see... so what is the difference between the lm1 and lm2?
is there a cooling fan on the lm2? parts any harder to find>?

[Pr0k]

Parts are still readily available for the LM1 through Tower or LHS. The LM2 is based on the mp7.5 so parts and hop ups everywhere.

[evilGearhead]

hey , proK, Bukkake mentioned something about you maybe having an extra escort body possibly for sale.. how much?
also, does the Lm2 have the same a-arms as the 7.5 buggy,
is it a much better car than the Lm1?
im seriously thinking about buying one

[Pr0k]

Well at some point I may be willing to get rid of the body, but when he said that we were under the impression that we had some new Subaru bodies. Weren't the right ones and had to return them so the escort Body is currently the only one I have.

[SixVi6]

The LM2 arms are the same shape and material as the 7.5 arms but shorter in length. All of the other 1/8 buggy based rally cars are nothing but buggies, long arms tall wheels and tires and all with really silly looking wide bodies on them. That is why I chose the Lm2 over something like the Ofna GTP and I'm glad I picked the LM2. As far as it being a better car than a Lm1 I can't say. for LM2 hop ups check This link to the RCCA Landmax 2 Super shop.. (http://www.rccaraction.com/rn/articles/kyosho_lmx.asp) They did one heck of an on road buildup on an LM2. Also I have lots of pics during assembly and the entire instructions scanned if you are interested in seeing how the LM2 builds and looks. Right Here (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/pics.html)

[ecatbox]

don't worry, i'll work on him...i have an escort body as well, but it's pretty well used...i stripped the paint off it and i'll probably use it for my basher body

both LMs use their own a-arms, which are shortened versions of the inferno dx II and MP 7.5 respectively

heres my escort if you want to see it...i used this citrus cleaner called "de solve it" to get that ugly paint off, been meaning to paint it for like months now, thinking black or silver

before (http://***********/gp20/misc/escort.jpg) and after (http://***********/gp20/misc/escort2.jpg)

[SixVi6]

What glow plugs, fuel and pipe are you guys using on your GS21's?

I'm runing 30% blue thunder and an McCoy MC-9 with a mega loud Dynamite sport .21 pipe and it really brings the GS21 to life and runs nice.

[ecatbox]

i really like the mccoy plugs too, though i run the MC-59 (in EVERYTHING) with 10-20% blue thunder race or o'donnell preferred, though i have stooped so far as to use traxxas if necessary...

[SixVi6]

sleep? is that why the neighbors get all mad when I run the LM at this time of night err.. morning? lol..

yeah the McCoy plugs rock. I run the 59's when I'm using 20% fuel and usually move to the cooler 9's when I run the 30%. I actually have a last resort can of Traxxas 20% that I use in emergency's only but it will be parting along with my .15 t-maxx on sunday when my friend picks it up.

lol.. I mangled my friends mostly stock RS4 with my LM2. he was struggling to get around the parking lot track a couple friends and I set up. He spun right at the end of the long straight going into a fast turn. Then when he was turning around he drove right out in front of me and I nailed him hard. The poor RS4 spun, caught air, and clipped the cement base of a light pole. The chassis is bent (Which may not be from this crash because he is a horrible clueless driver), the front top plate and the left front suspension is all mangled, and we never found thedog bone or one shock. :confused: he was pissed but I told him in the first place that he is really way out of his league racing his stock RTR RS4 against my old really built .12 CVR powered RS4 2 that I sold to a friend and a .15 CV powered Kyosho V1R <--- I like). I told my buddy straight up that if he could not hang to just get out of the way but he claimed his RS4 would take my LM. lol.. oh well.

[ecatbox]

hahaha...last time me and pr0k ran together it was 4 tec vs. inferno..talk about outclassed...i went pretty easy on him and didn't break anything, though i did catch some air off that little thang..eheeh

and before he starts his whining, he bought the gallon of COOL POWWA and i didn't pay jack, so i guess i can't complain...that stuff does seem extra-stinky though (in a bad, "jesus my nose is burning" kinda way)...and i guess it's the extra castor in the blue thunder, but that stuff smells really good after the fact, every time i get a whiff i feel like a little kid in grampas tool shed or something...maybe thats just the brain tumor

[Pr0k]

ehehe YEAH you big bully! If there is a stock rs4 out there that will stay with an LM2 I would like to see it. Simplw tell the guy he he is not in your same class, there is no shame in that, that is why they have different classes for racing. It's like thinking a chevette can stay with a corvette. I hope to get to run my LM today(weather permitting). Also hope to take my newly aquired mp6 on its maiden run. I have a feeling the 4tec aint gonna see too much use any more (why bother?) but not sure if i will keep it on the shelf or ebay it.

[SixVi6]

grrrr.. he called me today complaining again and I just gave him most of the pars to fix his piece of junk. The only thing I didn't have to give him were the arms. Mabey if he would stop jumping his RS4 off ramps, hitting curbs to see it fly, and take somewhat decent care of it, it would run a lot better and be a lot stronger.

hmmm.. come to think of it yesterday I also gave my neighbors new V1R a good thwack when he spun and it was fine. My old built RS4 and the V1R hit head on and they were both fine also. Heck when dumbass came there yesterday with the crap RS4 he said, "Well my clutch is fried but it still works as long as I run the idle way high." Grrrr... he doens't run a fuel filter either and has all kinds of tunning problems. I'm not calling him when I head out today again with the same two other friends. It was a decent match up with the other two TCs and drivers.

Pr0k.. Yeah once you go .21 everything else is just ohh so cute. lol.. I sold all my smallblock powered RC's because I new that I'd probably never touch them again after I got the LM2. hell I'm thinking of selling my .21 t-maxx and buying an MP 7.5 then I'd have on road and off road with interchangeable parts.

[Redfox]

hey ppl, i'm still waiting for the f*#$ing needle valve set to come. Finding obscure kyosho parts in australia is a nightmare! Then the other nite i found out that maybe the 6520-03 needle valve set has changed, and the new ones don't have the brass hex screw that you may recall i broke about a month or so ago.

So i'm just wondering if anyone knows about whether the brass hex screw that holds the needle valve assembly to the carb case is included in the 6520-03 set. I don't wanna buy a needle assembly for the new gs-21r carb.

Although now i haven't got the stupid part yet, i'm starting to get pissed off. I can get my dad in NY to fedex me a whole new carb! I would get the 6520-03 off tower except it isn't listed there. Maybe i should get the brand new 8mm carb that will supposedly fit the old gs-21r.

I'm paying AU$36 or something for this needle valve set, and for double that price i can get a whole new carb from the states...

Oh btw, what is the diff between the 7 and 8mm new gs21r carb?? and why are they plastic?

Any help would be much appreciated...

cheers,

Chris

[KIRK S. DECKER]

REDFOX

Before you buy a new carb for the GS-21 engine you might want to invevest in another power plant...in the long run it will probably be cheaper and I think you will be happiier. From experience I can tell you that the GS21 is nothing but a hassle. I too had the brass carb fitting break in the matter you described...twice (the second time I was being very carefull, I promise). Also the piston and sleve are ABN and not ABC so therefore they wearout and lose compression fairly quickly making starting difficult ,especially when warm and flameouts more common (replacements are $40 bucks a pop US). Finally, the performance of the GS-21 is poor to fair. I never was able to get it tuned perfectly as the needle positions always seemed to change(the low end would run rich, then run lean, then stall,then run lean again and so forth, all without touching the needle! ) I tried to seal it with gasket silicone to prevent airleaks but no help. I could kick myself in the a** for all the time and money I threw away on this engine....oh yeah, the pull starter and one way bearing will also fail soon (i did have a homemade remedy I got from the TMAXX guys to fix this). The other .21 engines I have used all tuned and ran with out any problems. For one example, I have a "sport" SH 3port engine sold under General Silicones that runs perfect (4 gallons of fuel so far) ... no overheating (another GS21 flaw), starts on the second or third pull everytime, and once I get the needles set (only takes a couple of min. once the engines is warm) the engine performs great and stays at a constant running temp (give or take 5 deg) and never flames out tank after tank. This is just my opinion and I wished someone would have gave me this advice before all my heartache with the GS-21 but I'm sure the other members can give you more input about this subject.

[SixVi6]

I agree.. the GS21 is a pretty weak engine. my t-maxx with a $100 pull start Megatech .21 can beat my GS21 powered LM2. Just about any pull start engine will be more powerfull and easier to tune than the GS21.

[french-fry]

Woo-hoo! I've been folowing the posts here for several weeks now and I finally ordered my very own Landmax 2 with Subaru impreza body. Wow I can't wait till it gets here. This is my high school graduation present since my parents won't let me take a real (or rather, full-size) car to college with me. I'm sure I'll have questions for you guys in the next few days.:)

One last thing, what kind of top speeds can you get with a stock Landmax 2?

Thanks (in advance)

[Pr0k]

Hey I am glad to see the lm2 is being so well received and that this forum is active. Post lotsa pics!! and ask lotsa questions we have some real pros and innovators on this forum, and I will always be around lurking and babbling.

[Redfox]

Heya pplz,

kirk, thanks for your suggestions... i am still waiting for the carb neelde valve replacement and i was just thinking of cancelling the order. Just one thing tho... i was told by many sources that the LM2 new gs21r engine is a much better engine than the original LM gs21r engine cos it doesn't run as hot and is basically a better engine. THe thing is, many of those faults that you pointed out in your post was related to the carb. Like the changing settings in the high and low end needles. Those are def. carb related issues and i was thinkin, if i just buy a brand new carb (the new gs21r one) it should run fairly well. ALso, my engine still has heaps of compression and should run fine. I prolly won't think of upgrading until i lose compression.
But gimme some suggestions for a new .21 engine anywayz!!! i would luv to know what a cheap, yet good .21 engine is for future reference.
Cheers,
Chris

[KIRK S. DECKER]

REDFOX

I too have heard that the new GS21r is a better power plant but I don't really have any personal experience with the new one, but...
I did replace my carb with the "new" one, I bought the "new" heatsink head, and the replacement piston/sleeve was designed different than the original (so I assume it is from the GSR2) leaving me with esentially a GS21R 2 engine (with the exception of the newly designed crank shaft ...I think). Although this did improve my performance/tuning somewhat it was not to the degree I expected and I would have spent my money more wisely on a different engine.
I think your right though; keep running the engine until it dies and then purchase a new engine, keeping in mind what brands have good product support Down Under(for spare parts,etc.) As far as suggestions the OS RG series is very good, both performance wise and reliability. My experience with "sport" SH engines (distributed by Megatech I think) again has been good. From what I read, the Force engines by ofna are also strong and reliable performers. As long as you stick with the "big names" I think you will be OK. Again, I would go with something you can readily get spare parts for so that you don't have to deal with the frutration of trying to find and then wait for parts needed to get you max back on the road.
Finally, maybe I just got a lemon GS21R, but I do know this engine really soured my first "nitro experience" and I was ready to go back to electric. But when I finally replaced this engine I quickly regained my nitro tuning confidence and realized how easy and FUN nitro can be.

[ecatbox]

well, buying the carb is probably the best way to just get it back on the road, the 7 and 8mm ones are the same price, will fit perfectly on your engine, and the 8mm might actually make a difference...i definitely agree with kurt that you don't want to spend any more on the stocker than you absolutely have to, but i know you are a student and laying out the dough for a new engine and all the stuff required to use it (mounts, flywheel, decent clutch etc etc) might be more than you are willing to spend at the moment...i have a couple of kyosho engines i am not using and might be willing to give you the australian student discount on the carb off one of em if you are in need that bad...if you do decide to order from tower, be advised you can also get the GT-30 2 speed for $70 (with special stock number)

with that said, a new engine is about the biggest upgrade you can make and is really an eventuality...i can recommend the ofna/picco sport (which is just a picco ES 4 port that says "ofna" on one side)...has a threaded crank so it requires a minimum of extra stuff, and makes crazy power...plus i understand you can use the piston/sleeves/connecting rod from the higher-level versions ("comp" 6 port and "O-1" 8 port) when it's time for a rebuild and have a truly fearsome pullstart engine...i also understand the ofna hyper 21 is a great engine once you work the kinks out (ripped o-rings in the carb from the factory and a weak pullstart) though i still haven't tried one...it is an sg engine though and requires the sg clutch nut and "bell guide" thing (which is not too bad, extra $8) along with it's own flywheel (which any new engine other than the kyosho will require)...i'm sure the RG is nice but i don't know if it is THAT nice...you can get a hyper 21 for $110usd with manifold, the pullstart RG lists for $180 or so and still requires it's own non-standard manifold (or adapter) in addition to all the other stuff...i also heard a few too many reports of people snapping the crank journal at the front, which is something nobody should ever have to worry about...the ofna/force engine (P4) or it's duratrax cousin (torq 21) can be found pretty cheap sometimes and would make a decent upgrade at the right price...i haven't tried any megatech engines and after my last experience with the company, never will...

another step up and you get into the serious OS and italian racing engines (seemingly all made by either picco or novarossi), more power, more upgrades required (steel gears etc), no pullstart...

my opinon is the best bang for the buck would be a hyper 21 with cvec...power on par with engines three times the price (it is supposedly a more or less direct ripoff of the RB C4 nova engine, but made in china by ho bao) while running longer and COOLER than any gs21 ever dreamed of...

btw, most all the fancy engines come with plastic carbs now, i guess it has something to do with heat/vibration etc...haven't had any weirdness with the picco carb

[Redfox]

Thanks for the tips kirk... i think i'll just keep on running it until it dies. Otherwise i would feel a bit ripped off that i had to buy a shoddy engine with the LM... i at least wanna get good use out of it to make it feel worth it!

I am gonna cancel that order for the needle valve set, and either order one of the new carbs from the hobby shop or order it through tower depending on how much the hobby shop wants. I think they would want a good AU$90 at least for the new carb, and i think i'm right in saying that tower wants US$32 for a new carb.

Btw which one should i get?? both the 8mm and 7mm would fit my gs21r engine right? Just the 8mm has a larger internal diameter right? I think i will go the 8mm... but if anyone knows the diff, then please let me know...

I will prolly go and pick up the new stainless brake disc set that i ordered within the next coupla days cos they called up two days ago to say that it's in stock now! Yay! I have the stopping power, but no friggin power source!!! Lol...

Btw, i am gonna meet up with some bloke around the sydney area (he has a LM too) and figure out what is wrong with my steering.

Chris

[Redfox]

Cool thanks for that info bukkake! =] yeah i think i'm just gonna buy the new carb. My dad is comin home from the states soon and he told me that i can order the carb and he'll bring it back. Btw thanks for the offer of your carbs, but i don't wanna hassle ya too much =]

I'll keep the idea of the hyper 21 in mind for the next time i decide that i gotta waste some money on the car! lol but thanks for the suggestion...

He's also getting me some new shocks... i'm gonna get the large front and rear turbo burns metal shocks. Although now that i think about it, they are US$40 a pair... maybe i should do away with the shocks and get a 2spd!

Hrmmm help me... should i put up with these crappy blue shocks and get a 2 spd, or what?! with the 2 spd, do you use the same centre diff housing?? Or do you get a whole new assembly with a whole new brake kit or what??

I was also thinkin of getting a CVEC pipe seeing as they are only about US$54... pity tower doesn't stock them, cos the carb and the other parts i'm getting would be from tower and i don't really wanna order from another online company because of extra shipping charge...

I think i'll also get a new air filter... my one has had it... i really wanted one of those K&N aluminium filters, but since tower doesn't sell them, i will prolly get the motor saver 15mm of-road .21 filter... is the 15mm the right one to get or should i get the 16mm or 16.5mm??

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBG03&P=0

Anywayz, now i got some stuff to think about! I gotta decide really quick cos i gotta get this stuff ordered within the next day or so... Bukkake, if you wouldn't mind, could you fetch me that part number for the el cheapo 2spd?? Cheers mate....

Later,

Chris

btw i think i'm gonna talke off the cooling fan... It does bugger all and just gets in the way. I am gonna leave the pulley on the crankshaft to hold all the bearings and the clutchbell on, but is there something i could replace that with so i don't need a pulley there?? just curious, that's all...

[ecatbox]

sure thing...stock number is SR3295, good until june 30th at least...other fun codes - ad# 010P2 ($15 off $175 order) or ad# 04240 ($10 off $125 order)

i would get the 2 speed myself...shocks are a necessity, but it's hard to beat a $30 discount...and you may be able to get a better deal on the shocks later

the 2 speed comes complete (no extra brakes though) and fits in the stock center diff housing, biggest mod required is moving the fuel tank a little bit (using the provided holes)

tower does carry the cvec pipes, just not the right one (170)...i dunno if that means cvec is phasing the 170 model out or what, i still see it elsewhere...the new one (165) looks too short to me...

the air filter should work...i get 13mm on the neck with 15mm lip, so try the 15 and tiewrap it on nice and tight...

and i am surprised you have spared the cooling fan this long, you can lose it and replace the pulley with a washer

good luck on getting your steering straightened out (haw haw), if you decide to get real crazy, the BSW-86 ball bearing steering kit is also now IN STOCK (In Limited Quantities)..ehehe

[SixVi6]

french-fry..

Congrats on the purchase of the LM2! I recently bought mine and love it! Its big and fast out of the box. As far as speeds its probably around 35 up close to 40 mph stock depending on the tunning. Its a blast to drive and really needs nothing to be strong and reliable.

The only problem I had with mine was the engine screws coming loose. Even when I cleaned the threads and used the high strength lock tight they eventually came loose form the heat cycling. I fixed that by using some t-maxx motor mount screws. They stick out from the chassis more than I like but they have built in lock washers. I use those with just a small amount of med lock tight and have never had one back out on me.

RedFox..
I have the newest GS21 on my LM2 and I have to say its OK but still runs hotter than any .21 I've had and still is not a real power producer by any means. Its really not worth spending the money to upgrade to the latest GS21 specs. Just get the carb and save some change to get a better engine. The 8mm carb has a larger bore going through the carb. generally the larger carb will give more power in the mid and high rpms and will of course use more fuel in the process.

They now make carbs out of plastic composite to reduce weight, costs and the plastic carb won't heat the fuel up before it gets to the engine therefore it, in theory, makes more power. Also if the engine stalls, an aluminum carb can be so hot the fuel boils off in the carb before it can reach the engine making for impossible restarts. no such problems with the plastic composite carbs.

The Hyper .21 is the best low budget high power engine out there. Lots of power and after you seal the carb up its a great reliable engine. RC Nitro just tested the Hyper on their dyno. It pulled 1.88 hp at 21,000 rpm! lol.. thats better than the much more expensive Megatech .21 7 port "race" engine that pulled only 1.7 hp. lol..

John

[french-fry]

....waiting is the hardest part....*checks his order status for the third time today*

[Redfox]

Bukkake... maaaaaate!! You're a life saver, i swear that's gotta be the cheapest LM 2spd i've ever seen... one thing tho, it sez at the bottom of the page "for on-road use only!" what does that mean ;)
In all seriousness, i realise that if you are runnin a 2spd in the dirt, then it can wind up at shift from the wheelspin right?? I don't wanna get a 2spd and then have to sacrifice my sideways driving skills (or lack of!) for it... although a guy i know has a LM wiv 2spd and he sez it runs fine in the dirt. If you could just confirm.... =]

Lol, now that you've saved me US$30 i can't use the $10 discount! hehehe even if i get the new carb it won't be over $125, hehehe

I'm gonna pick up the new brake set this arvo, and i just rang up and the guy said that it'll be AU$49 *RIP OOOFFFFFFFF* but what can ya do?! *shrug*

SixVi6, thanks for the help... i suppose that all makes sense now about the carb. Seeing as everyone reckons the hyper .21 is a good hp for your buck engine, i'll def. keep that in mind for when i upgrade that engine.
I think i'll stick to my stock pipe now and upgrade when i get a new power plant...

I'll keep you updated...

p.s. bukkake, where did you find that 2spd??? it's obviously not very well advertised on the site, so is there something you know that i don't?!?! ;)

[SixVi6]

lol... waiting oh yeah. I had a long wait for my LM2. Fed Ex damaged the first LM so bad they shipped it back to tower. then Tower just refunded my money and I was still stuck with the stupid shipping and handling fee. The annoying part is I live a few hours away from Tower Hobbies but its far enough that It would not be worth it to drive all the way out there to buy stuff. They got it right the second time around though.

[Pr0k]

SixVi6, is their store open to the public? ehehe if so i would prolly go there just to look at the new toys! We used to have a big old place here , but it closed, now just little places with not too much in stock to look at.
:confused:

[ecatbox]

that number is from the inventory reduction section of the latest speedmart thing, been on special for a while now...

i haven't had any problems using mine in dirt/sand, just put a piece of tape over the opening in the chassis to help keep rocks from getting kicked in there, and keep it clean in general...you will see when you get it that it wouldn't be too hard to make it more or less dirtproof...and as long as it is set correctly, i don't think accidental shifting will be a problem...the nature of it dictates that you have to have to hit a certain rpm for it to shift, stay under that rpm = no shift...so set it at roughly 80% of full throttle like they tell you and you will have to work to get it to shift up at anything under 25mph...not that it can't be done...ehehe

fry - hang in there, it will be worth the wait

[Redfox]

I got my brake disk set.... it swear its the most expensive 6 pieces of metal that i EVER bought... AU$49!!!

Anywayz, i wanna know what glue i'm supposed to use to affix the composite pads to the metal calipers... do you reckon CA, selleys multigrip or a contact adhesive like kwikgrip??

=]

[ecatbox]

i think they recommend rubber cement...little bit of silicone should work even better

p.s. good gawd, thats $25 in real money! (ehehe)

[KIRK S. DECKER]

I just found a goldmine of option parts for the LM1 made by a company that I oddly enough never heard of, GPM. Anyone else on this post have any input on the quality of these products? They carry a line of part including hub carriers, body post sets (both aluminum), graphite radio trays and shock towers etc. Their prices are rather cheap, but from the small pics. the parts look pretty trick. The site that carries this line is www.hobbyetc.com
under "car kits" kyosho I think.

[ecatbox]

yep, theres a mention of them back at the end of page 1...i have heard kinda iffy things about their quality though...and if you think their prices are cheap, i would like to get to know your wallet better...ehehe

did you order