Kyosho Landmax Forum v1.0

[Pr0k]

eheheh Maybe we need to go on a quest!! Might find a Chic-fil-a too!

[Redfox]

I believe SHITE is a word that nicely sums up what i just did! Am i having bad luck or am i just a retard?!

I started takin apart the landmax to clean it up and prepare it for some onroad modifications. Anywayz i picked up the 3 bearings i needed for the clutch bell and they fit in there like a glove! I've fastened the pulley back on (btw the instructions show a washer in between the clutch bell and the pulley... is that necessary, cos i didn't notice one in there before...)

So it all went back together nicely... then i realise that the needle valve assembly is loose and like swivelling around. So i went and got the cross wrench thingy and tightened it up (the brass fixture) and i f**king broke it! It snapped inside just where the thread starts. So basically i have a non working carb cos i ******* broke the brass hex valve screw thingy ( i don't know what it's called!!!) and to top it off, the instructions show that part with the number 6520-03 but it doesn't come up on the tower search!! The part apparently includes the whole high spd needle assembly, but i dunno what part number i'm lookin for cos i 6520-03 doesn't exactly look like a part number to me! So if anyone could help me find the part number for this, i'd much appreciate it! Or else i could get a whole new carb. How much do you reckon that'd be?? What kinda carb should i look for??

I made up some new wheels last nite. I got the 15 spoke white wheels and i had a spare set of the rally tires and i found some awesome foam with a silver heat reflective backing on it. Anywayz now i have a full set of wheels and they are pretty hard. They feel like they are pumped up =] anywayz they were just an experimental set cos since i'll prolly be moving to radials or slicks in a while then i felt that i could experiment with these wheels and tyres. I am interested to find out how "pumped" tyres handle with this car...

I also saw a porsche 911 body today in the hobby shop, but it was a super 10 size body. I know theoretically it doesn't fit the landmax, but it looked about the right size! So 3434, seeing as you got a super ten (you do don't ya??) then mebe you could tell me if its the right size. Just curious, that's all...

I'm also quite serious about getting a mill, cos my school had two of them and they got them from one of my good friend's dad. So i am gonna ring up my mate and ask if he has one. The ones at school i've used b4 to mill out acrylic. They are unreal and the CNC programming is hell easy. Infact when i left the school i don't think they were being used! So i might go back and ask if i can have them or buy them for a severely reduced price!! hehe =]

Anywayz since i ain't got a workin engine anymore, i'm just gonna have to work on lowering the car and makin it road spec =]

Chill out pplz =]

Chris

[ecatbox]

you can search on "6520" at tower and it will list the available parts for the GS-21...unfortunately, it looks like an all or nothing deal...high end assembly is not listed so you have your choice of the 7 or 8mm carbs (same price too)

LXAVV9 6520-43 Carb, GS-21R, 7mm, new style
LXAVV5 6520-39 Carb, GS-21R, 8mm, optional for new style

you can pick up the 8mm and be the coolest kid on your block...or something...

superten bodies have around 280-300mm wheelbase (depending on make) so would come up a bit short for us (325mm)...they are also not quite as wide as we need...btw, i did some checking on the serpent bodies...the cars have a 300mm wheelbase also but i guess the bodies with flat sides could fit...so if you want a mclaren or porsche GT1 style body it might be workable...i will do some more checking on that one...

i would kill for a nice landmax 911 body...a REAL one (930 style), not these melted lookin 911s they sell nowadays...kyosho, are you listening???

[Redfox]

Ok, for once something has gone right for me!! Hehehe, you know there were these two guys in the NitroReview landmax forums from sydney australia? Well i got in touch wiv one of them last nite via MSN and he told me that he also busted the high end needle assembly and he was able to get the part from Wings n Things which ain't too far from me. Anywayz i rang them up today and believe it or not, they got it! And it's only gonna cost my AU$18.95. I'm a happy chappy now!! =]
Also i was speakin to my friend last nite (the guy wiv the CNC mill) and he still has one, so we might set it up in the next session break and try to machine some custom made landmax parts. The cool thing is that it can mill steel, so aluminium and carbon fiber will be no problems!
Later, chris =]

[Redfox]

****... you're not gonna believe it... i just went to the Tower website and checked up on the part number the girl at the hobby store gave me for the needle valve assembly... cos when i gave her the number i had, 6520-03, she came back and gave me the "new" part number 6510-27 and then i just found out on tower that it's the needle valve assembly for the GS11R... crap. ARGH!! things never seem to go right for me... well i'm gonna go in on saturday and see if they have it! If not i guess i'll have to get a whole new carb! =[ although AU$60 for a new carb doesn't make me happy!!!! ****.
Ok i'll update my situation when i work somethin out!!!

[Redfox]

You know what's weird tho... i just found the pullstart assembly for the GS21r on tower for US$49.99 which is essentially AU$90, but in the hobby shop in the city, the gp20 pullstart is only like AU$35!! now how is that possible?! =]

[somedude2187]

It depends on the taxes that imported items face, american warrenties stuff like that. This is why most japaneese car compaines charge less if you buy them out of japan. Example the landmax 2 is 450 us dollars but you can buy them in japan for 330.

[ecatbox]

theres that, and theres also the fact that tower is WILDLY overpriced on some things...fer instance, a new GS-21 lists for $185 on their site...which nobody in their right mind would pay since you can get a better engine for half that...if you want to see something funny, compare these two links...

1. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=KYOC2591&P=7

2. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=KYOC2574&P=7

which would i rather have? hmmmmmm...

[3434]

Hey Red
Had a super ten but that is long gone. Still a few memories laying around. I looked at the exploded view of the carb and the bolt looked like the same as a GS11x-r. But I have them and they are different. Even checked with Ripmax they don't have them any more either. Your going to have to find some hobby shop that has them in stock. Good luck!

[Redfox]

MP-6 brake set for sure bukkake! hehehe

I went to the hobby shop today and they sed that they can order that part in for me but it'll take about 2 weeks. =[ so i guess in the mean time i can't run the car, which'll give me time to clean it up a bit i guess...

=[

[ecatbox]

oscar's car:
http://***********/gp20/misc/oscar-rocks.jpg

what he's using:

FZW036 -pilot shaft (superten w/ 4-stroke) - fits the 40 also
39666-03 -clutch shoes used on superten 4-stroke
39666-xxx -gears for clutch bell
FZW035 -lightweight flywheel from superten
FZW37 -clutch bell (2 speed-superten)

he says the lightweight flywheel made a BIG difference (as far as rev-happiness goes i guess)

only downsides: still not fast enough for him (with 20T low gear, 22 is too high but 21 may be just right-he will try it this weekend) and the clutch shoes don't last long (working on that too)

[Pr0k]

Looks sweet, not sure it will ever have the speed though. Which would be fine for me BTW!

[3434]

NIIIICE! Thanks for the pics I like that. That could work. I have the 666s tranny but I don't think there is much difference.

[ecatbox]

should have mentioned hes using the GT-30 with that btw...i have seen a movie of his car in action and it ain't exactly slow (too fast for Pr0k anyway)

i think the 39666-05 bell (superten 2-speed 2 stroke?) will fit 2 stroke cars...28mm long and 7mm teeth and uses the same gears as the one oscar's using...13-22 tooth low gears and 17-26 high...wide enough for ya?

another pic of oscar's car:

[ecatbox]

p.s. forgot to mention...oscar said to check out castlehobbies.com for some of them same parts from a company called FORM. much cheapa

i notice they have some kyosho/landmax parts also...prices not so great but good to know in case of emergency

[3434]

My bell is a little different. Not sure about all the differences between the 666 and the 666s but they use the same pinions. I think its on the daily sale right now. Still have two problems. Engine is to big and I dont have a lot of movement. And I'd like to get more out of a set of clutch shoes.

[ecatbox]

i think the only real difference between those two superten bells is probably the length...the 39666-05 is 28mm and the FZW-37 is 23.8mm long according to tower...guessing this is due to the longer physical size of the 26 and 40 engines which also requires the shorter pilot shaft (1" long for that FZW-36 shaft compared to the 1.25" of the stock GT-30 pilot shaft and 3/4" stock single speed shaft) to fit...not sure how much the flywheel is a factor but from what oscar said they sound pretty much interchangeable...

hopefully they are both big enough in diameter to accept the standard clutch shoes if one were to sand down both sides until they could squeeze in there...i suggested that to oscar as an option and we'll see if he sees any problem with it...

[3434]

This is the bell I have. It's 23.75mm long or darn close to it.

[3434]

It came with this tranny.

[3434]

His looks more like this one.

[3434]

Hope this works. Its the only way I could get it here. From 75 Kyosho catalogue

[ecatbox]

just had to work that last one in dincha? hahaha

[3434]

What are you doing up ? My system is all screwed up after working two and half days strait. Thats the one I tried to get on the other day. Thats the wide version kit #31348X.

[ecatbox]

i think i am gonna order a 39666-05 bell and a set of 17/20 teef tomorrow...you said it hit the pilot shaft (or was it da shoes?) and came up about 3mm short but didn't mention if that was on the GT-30 shaft or the GTW-40 shaft or the stock one or what...but i have a dremel and am not afraid to use it...if i have to i'll get a hyper 21 (sg shaft) so i can bypass this pilot shaft crap altogether and MAKE it fit...those things supposedly pull 38K rpm anyways = DANGER DANGER

[ecatbox]

i keep vampire hours...too hot during the day to be awake

i'm telling ya...send those big scans to landmax@*********** ...i got 3MB free in the inbox at the moment and would love to have bigger versions for the site...you will be doing the world a favor (and me)

make a bogus yahoo account if you don't want me to know your email address...

[3434]

I have every thing in front of me now so ask. No clutch shoes involved GT-30 shaft bell is 2mm of the table. I never owned a GTW-40 shaft just the mounts. One more thing this bell is only 10mm deep compaired to the GT-3O 13mm. Clutch shoes might hit.

[3434]

I can't say I don't want you to know it. Just don't want it out there. Still a little rough at this thing and I don't have a Yahoo account. Haven't used the scanner that much and AOL did a number on it. But thats another story.

[3434]

The bell idea I had was a duratrax bell. Forget which model but the bell is dtxc7136 didn't work. Bells deep enough but only 9mm of thread. One thing to try might be an HPI bell 2nd is 6.5mm and 1st is 5.5mm, 25mm overall.

[ecatbox]

ehehe cool...sounds close enough to me...i have a nice 3 shoe flywheel/clutch setup coming for an sg engine (which i don't have yet) and i could always grind that nut down a little to whatever height i need...and yah, i could tell by looking the actual bell part of it is thinner, 1.5mm or so off each side of the regular clutch shoes wouldn't be too hard though...will the regular clutch shoes fit inside there diameter-wise?


edit: eheh i was thinking that you were thinking of some serpent bell or something..check this out...3 speed tranny off kyosho's new (as yet unreleased) .21 monster truck...probably so undergeared on a landmax it would wind out at 30mph but you could tow full size cars with it...saw a BMT 931 3-speed on ebay once but it went nuts at the last minute...

http://***********/gp20/misc/cap002.jpg

[3434]

HPI and the-05 are 26mm id. GTW-30 bell is just about 26.5mm id. Doesn't sound like a problem.

[ecatbox]

awesome..thank you my friend

[ecatbox]

wow eight pages of this crap...this is a milestone

[3434]

I was thinking monster trucks earlier in the week. T maxx was no good but the duratrax looked good on the blow up. Now I'm thinking v-one-r. But can't find any dimensions. The bell looks shallow though. I'm gonna crash have to finish my car and paint a body sometime today.

[ecatbox]

sleep tight...discovery channel or golf puts me out everytime

[ecatbox]

clutch bell and 16/19 teef added to cart (no 20)...should be about right...the 21/24 sounds like the hot tip for your car, now i just need to talk you into a .40 TWO STROKE ehehe

(don't think i haven't thought about it)

[Pr0k]

Well I manged to pull the rope out of the starter so no running today. I will be rebuilding it in the morning, atleast i hope i can do it ehehe. If you have any helpful hints let me hear em!

[Pr0k]

looky what i picked up on ebay. BRAND NEW OS max 21 RF-B 3.5cc ENGINE !! Eat your heart out Bukkake this thing has to be 10 years old.

[3434]

Originally posted by bukkake
clutch bell and 16/19 teef added to cart (no 20)...should be about right

Did you order those gears and bell yet? That whole trans is on the daily sale for about $75.

[ecatbox]

yep...bell, gears and $69 (with special stock number) extra GT-30...few other goodies and my $15 "i am an rc addict" discount...ordered this morning, shipped today...gotta love tower

[3434]

Wasn't sure what the parts were worth but the trans comes with the bell 19 and 13 tooth.

[3434]

Where did you find the picture of the three speed? First gear looks like the one on the 7.5

[ecatbox]

ahh i gotcha...the bell is $28 (ouch) and gears are $17 each (ouch, ouch)...got the 16/19 and thought real hard about 21/24 before deciding that would be seriously pushing it...think the 16/19 should be good as the car launches pretty hard now even starting in second (16t)...and i have to double check my math, but 30,000rpm on 19/50 worked out to ~84mph when i did it the other day...

now just have to make it fit...

edit: the pic of that 3 speed is from a little "spy" movie of the truck that was floating around a while back...

[3434]

If you knew somebody with a super 10 you might have been able to unload the rest. Thats the only reason I have a TR-15. I was looking to buy a new GS15R at $150. The TR came with the engine and the whole kit was $150.

[ecatbox]

ehehe nice how that works out...i have seen a few people on ebay that stocked up at that price and now sell them for the bargain price of $200...looks like a neat car too, i was surprised 10th 4wd buggies never really caught on back with the old inferno 10 and such...

[Pr0k]

I found this while looking fora brace for my little traxxas.Graphite Radio tray, front brace and Center Diff coverfor my Landmax, 25 bucks shipped!

[Pr0k]

New Imprezza Body, and asst other goodies, now if my buddy would build those shock towers...heheh

[ecatbox]

goood news...got my stuff from tower, looks like the clutch bell will work with some minor mods...about 2mm off the fat end of the GT-30 pilot shaft will get the bell part up against the flywheel...shoes should fit inside directly or with minor sanding of the sides, and i'm THINKING that flipping the motor mount plates around to the "OS position" will put me in the neighborhood of the spur gears, making up for the slightly shorter length of the new bell...more details to follow

[SixVi6]

WooHoo!! I got my Landmaxx 2..

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_01.jpg

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_05.jpg

Looks good so far. I'll have more pics as I build. I can't wait.. I'm starting it now!! :) :cool: :D

[Pr0k]

Cool we will be looking forward to your posts. Went up to Bukkake's place today he showed me what I was doing wrong while trying to replace the starter spring. Was doing it ass backwards!! ehehe well live and learn wasn't able to run the lm today cause i forgot to bring the stupid one way bearing with me. So we chased the neighborhood kids with my little 4tec. DAmm i love this stuff!!

[SixVi6]

More pics.. in order from start to where I am currently on the LM2. I was not going to assemble it this weekend but the weather is so great today! mid 40's and rain and thunderstorms I had nothing better to do.

OK here they are.. I'm posting them as links cause I sure as heck don't want ot clutter up the thread with this many pics.

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_01.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_02.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_03.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_04.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_05.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_06.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_07.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_08.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_09.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_10.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_11.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_12.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_13.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_14.jpg

I now have to set up the linkages, finish the shocks, the rest of the radio gear, cut some old t-maxx foams up to use in the max2's tires and glue them on and it will be ready for break in. I'm still deciding what color to paint the body though. I can't wait! It had better stop raining tomorow evening..

[ecatbox]

verrrry nice...i like the play by play, just wish i could enjoy that NEW CAR SMELL...keep the pics comin...oh, and let me know the KYOC number for that subaru body if you run across it in the documentation anywhere, wouldja?...i will wait until later to pester you for a copy of the manual...and 3434 will be after you for the 2 speed kit instructions you will inevitably get...ehehe...

anyways, enjoy..don't forget your throttle return spring and loctite (don't forget to hit the screw for that ball end on the carb!)...hope the rain stops and you can get it dirty...

[SixVi6]

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_15.jpg
Woo.. The size difference between my HPI Rs42 and the LM2 is impressive. The NRS4 looks cute next to the landmaxx 2. lol..
Here is more..

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_16.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_17.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_18.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_19.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_20.jpg

lol.. I love that new car smell. The fresh rubber tires, the plastic, mmmmm and I've gotten a throttle return spirng waiting to be installed and I just have to change the configuration of the RX pack that I have to fit in the batt box and finish up the linkages and it will be ready to run.

interesting note.. I also opened up the engine. really clean inside. No dirt or shavings in site. I've opened up other engines and have seen some horrible stuff but this was actually really nice. the negatives.. well a not so great round con rod and ABN conctruction and a tiny throat on the carb. the heat sink head is nice and has a really thick head spacer on it. The porting and machine work on the sleve and case is excelent. I did radius the inlet and outlet of the carb and on the pipe and header, also trimmed the header gasket just a bit to match the exhaust port and did a bit of work on the crank. It should really help get this thing moving.

The part # for the Ru Bod is 39161.

aahh.. soon it will be running.

I just realized.. in normal writing and when talking about the Landmax I keep putting 2 X's at the end like its a t-maxx lol..

[SixVi6]

WooHoo! its ready to be broken in. I found out that my nice futaba FM radio gear is on its last leg. I'm not upset over it because I've been using this radio gear for 6 years now. but now I'm using the nasty radio gear from my smallblock maxx. lol.. a stock traxxas RX and a Transmitter from a MiniZ. looks like I'll be buying that JR XR3 that I've wanted sooner than I thought. Oh well.. its all working and just about ready to run. All I need to buy is a fuel filter. Next I have to focus on the body.

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_21.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_22.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_23.jpg

[Pr0k]

Looking SWEET! I think you will like the XR3 BTW have one myself.

[ecatbox]

sweet...can't wait to see it painted and ready to rawk...decided on a color yet?

p.s. thanks for the number but i got that one, just can't find the KYOC one, no big deal, just makes it easier to find on tower

[3434]

How about a big KYOC2407

[SixVi6]

I heat cycled the engine a few times in the garage over the afternoon today and it finally stopped raining! Its rather cool out still but the streets dried out a bit. So I ran the car good and rich driving slow through 2 tanks. I've yet to nail the throttle of course but just being at part throttle I can see this will be a lot of fun.

hmmm the body. I took a good look at it and the decals. It looks great and has nice detail in the body and it would be a shame to not use those really sweet decals so I think I'm going to paint it just like the real Ru WRX. Probably tomorow I'll go and pick up the paint, a good fuel filter, and a JR XR3. Not having a good epa on the crap miniZ controller that I'm using at the moment makes me nuts. It works well enough on the beater .15 t-maxx but this bad boy will need something a lot more adjustable.

[ecatbox]

3434- i think i love you, you sure you aren't looking to adopt a clean, quiet 30 year old son?

vi6- i was imagining you heat cycling the engine at 4am out on the balcony..ehhe

you are gonna love that thing...we ran Pr0k's little nitro 4 tec the other day and it was fast and all, but i guess i'm spoiled now...i think the landmax is my ideal rc car because it's big and heavy and handles more like a real car than some little "on rails" tc

and i know what you mean about the paint...hard to resist using all the goodies they give ya...looking forward to seeing the end result



clutch bell progress: ground about 2mm off the back of the GT-30 clutch nut with dremel and the thin cutting/grinding wheels, will have to knock the flywheel pins about 2mm back into the flywheel (BSW-22) and grind about 2mm off the back of the clutch (KC-45) and the bell will fit and leave about 7mm width of usable clutch...with the picco mounted with the little plates in "OS position" it looks to be just about right...maybe a shim here and there and we will be in bidness...and i may as well pick up a set of 21/24 teeth because i know i will eventually anyway

[3434]

You did mention something about cutting the lawn didn't you.

[3434]

Don't order those pinions yet. Got something else up my sleeve hopefully I'll know by Friday.

[ecatbox]

hehe stop teasing...i am almost there...think i will pick up a palm sander and some 60 grit to clearance the clutch..ahah..btw i noticed the instructions that came with my new spare spare GT-30 are different than the other ones...and they have the 39505 listed...weird

p.s. vi6, forgot to ask if you had checked out the diffs and their drive gears...thinking you probably did, but if you didn't you probably should...make sure the diffs are shimmed up nicely so there is just a tiny bit of backlash between the drive gears, slop on some more grease if necessary etc etc...

i notice looking at the LM2 exploded diff diagram emrys sent me that it shows o-rings at each end of the diff so i assume they build em that way for you...if you get real inspired you can fill the diffs with silicone oil like the buggies...i haven't played with it too much but think i will start with 7000 front and 1000 rear

[SixVi6]

Actually yes I did pull all the diffs out and apart because I was curious and had to see how they go together and I'm pleased to report that Kyosho built them beautifully. the diffs and gears had a coat of grease and it was all set up really nice. No binding or excessive play in anything. I was quite impressed. I'll probably check the play in the gears after I get it broken in good to make sure nothing loosened up.

lol.. heck if I would not get arrested for the noise I'd be out right now finishing up the breakin and doing some high speed runs and suspension tinkering right now with the landmaxx. :) Also the handling on rails thing of the TC's is cool but they are too fragile, low, and small and if you check a curb or hit a rock in the road and the car flips and crashes. After the crash, if you are lucky, it drives away tweaked but most likley it will be broken. I'm thinking the LM won't have any problems. TC's seem to be built just enough to work, 1/8 scales are overbuilt.. thats the way I like it.

lol.. darn it.. I still keep putting the double xx's at the end of LandMaXXXXX... stupid Traxxxxas and their repeating letters. T-maxxx... Maxxtraxx.. SuperMaxx.. lol :)

[Redfox]

Drool... me want a landmax 2 really really badly now!!! Those black arms look so solid.... and everything looks nicely arranged... which is more than i can say for the original... my LM has **** everywhere!! lol
I'm still waiting on the needle valve set for the carb! Oh my... i haven't fired up the max for months it seems!!!! hehe
I was thinkin of getting a TC next year... but i might get an 1/8 buggy instead... lemme know what ya reckon guys.
Laters,
Chris

[SixVi6]

I ran the LM2 today with some friends at work during an extended lunch because I came in early and had to stay late. Two of the guys have pretty well stock t-maxx's and one finally has his constantly broke and waiting for parts MP back up and running. We have a ramp set up in a dirt field and there is a fresh parking lot right next to it.. anyways. I ran tank #3, rich and still slow and eazy in the LM2. Then let it cool. While it was cooling I ran my .21 t-maxx just to shut up the MP guy up. After a good 30 mins I shut down the maxx and broke out the LM2 and ran tank #4 a little leaner and did some mild part throttle roll on tests and WOW! Its one fast Rc and its stock.. out of the box wiht a stock engine and it handles great. must get the body done and get good radio gear. I'm going to my LHS to get the XR3 I called they are in stock. I'll also get the paint... ohh I can't wait! I fricken love this thing!

[Pr0k]

Yeah there is nothin like a new toy to get the juices going. There is just no comparing the LM2 to any 1/10 car I have seen. Of course I have the original LM and still like it alot. :p :) :D

[Redfox]

Heya fellas,

well i am still trying to work out some issues wiv my LM. Do any of you know if there is a kit that i can buy to upgrade the steering on the LM to a bearing set??? or at least something that has very little movement around the steering posts...

Cos tonite i noticed that a lot of the slop in the steering is from movement in the two steering posts... particularly the one that isn't the servo saver. So if you know of how to fix this up, then i would appreciate it if you let me know.

Also, i think i need new brake discs... lol is it true that nitro will screw up your brake disks??? Like mine are still solid and all, but they have heaps of circular scratches all over the faces and they are generally in a crap condition. I think they might've been the reason why the damn thing never stops anymore!! not to mention they have castor all over them... hehehe lol...

I think i'm gonna order in the stainless steel brake system, IF053 or tower LXT697. Do you think these are a good choice??

Another issue is the rear shock tower? What is a good replacement part for that? cos i have noticed that the tower has warped because of the upwards pressure of the shocks.

I have already sussed out shock towers and i found the product on tower LXV272 and they are aluminium front and rear shock towers. I think... it sez it's the kyosho shock stay set inferno. Is this for the buggy?? and if so, will it fit on the LM??

Also, do i need to put a washer between the clutch bell and the fan pulley?? cos the diagram in the manual sez that ya do, but i never noticed one in there b4, i think...

I'm still waiting for the needle valve set so i can get it up and running again =[

Thanks for ya help fellas...

Cheers,

Chris

[ecatbox]

you know you can dye the arms right? it actually makes them stronger too...i have some used ones i simmered for probably an hour+ and you could bend em but i doubt you could break em

ball bearing steering kit is KYOC5777/BSW-86 but i think tower is still out of everything good for the time being...it's a good upgrade though, and well worth picking up

the mp6 brakes should work nicely...i will expect a full report if you get them of course...i also hear the duratrax 6 disc system is nice...

there is a replacement carbon fiber rear shock tower KYOC2752/GTW-9 but tower doesn't have them listed...best bet is probably to make one from 3mm alumin(i)um

the inferno set you mention has the alumin(i)um front and rear shock towers for the buggy...the rear one is a little different and doesn't have the rear body mount parts on it...

and washers never hurt...you can throw one of the small ones from your "racing box" in there

and finally, because you apparently didn't see it before (ahem)...

the parts list (freshly updated with more goodies to waste money on naturally)

http://***********/gp20/GP-20-parts.txt

[3434]

The duratrax multi-disc brakes are still available from Tower and they seem to work OK. But I really don't have a lot of time on them. The shock towers are done here but they seem to be available in the UK if you have any connections. You might even be able to get them.

[SixVi6]

WooHoo!!! damn! The body is done. Its came out excelent! I thought it was going to be a disaster though. I began to paint it and the spray can blew up. All the paint sprayed out of the top so I put my hand over it and ran around the house to the garage. Yes My hand is now blue. lol.. Luckily I still had two half cans of the same color left over from other paint jobs and got it painted. Then after probably 2+ hours of cutting out and placing decals I have this!

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_24.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_25.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_26.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_27.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_28.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_29.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_30.jpg

All I have left to do is cut a cooling hole in the front, back and side window. Sniff.. Its almost too pretty to run now. (I did say almost. lol.)

[Redfox]

Unreal! =] ok... now i really really want that wrx body! Lol...
Good job SixVi6!

Hey about cutting out the hole in the front windscreen, i don't think you really have to! Like i know it would be ideal for the airflow, but i haven't cut the front windscreen on my escort. I just cut out the front two windows and it looks schweeet. Cos really, if ya think about it, the body is pretty damn big and i'm sure there's plenty of airflow in there. Does the LM2 not have a cooling fan (i know they do f!@k all, but still....)??

Hey bukkake, thanks for the steering part no. It sure is hell expensive eh?! i can't see myself paying AU$60 for that, but i really want it so i think i'll just close my eyes when i'm paying! lol =]

I just checked out the duratrax multi disc braking system, and it looks lush! It's only a bit more than the Mp-6 system, and i would get it except it is too big. It wouldn't fit in the LM even tho it might fit an Mp-6. Cos if ya look at the radio tray there is only a small cut out for one disc on each side. I suppose i could modify it to fit in the extra discs, but then the fuel tank is also in the way. I reckon it'd be too much trouble to try and stuff it all in. I'll just get the Mp-6 brakes.

I will call the hobby store to see if i can get those parts.

Later ppl,

Chris

[3434]

You mean like this? Its not real bad but I have to cut more for the aluminum trans brace.
Sorry for the poor scan. Let me try something else.

[3434]

This is a little better.

[ecatbox]

yeah you will have to clearance the radio tray anytime you want to run that many discs...it's not a big deal, that aluminum cuts LIKE BUTTA

3434-can you try this pic again and send it to me?

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=574593

[SixVi6]

... Thanks man! I'm really pleased at how the body came out. I cut a couple large holes in the whindshield and rear windows as well as both front side windows. I'd rather be safe and get good cooling. There is no cooling fan on the 2's and now I see why the LM's have one. This engine runs pretty hot.

... I raced my .21 maxx against my LM2 today. A friend of mine from work drove the LM2 and I handled the .21 Maxx. It was close. The LM2 would lag behind initially but then catch up to my .21 T-maxx really quick but fall off in top speed. The maxx had an edge over the LM2 but the t-maxx is a bear to control on the pavenent at high speeds. :eek: It makes sense though. I geared the T for more speed, weight wise the T and LM2 are close to the same, but my T has a much more powerfull engine + 2 speeds over the LM2. So I guess my LM2 needs more hop ups!! lol..

Ohh I also took another pic of my LM2 in the sun.. The damn thing looks like a real Rally car is parken in my driveway.

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_32.jpg

[Pr0k]

Yes sir, looks like you did a really nice job all the way around. Kyosho makes some of the nicest detailed bodies IMHO. BTW nice camera angle it does look like a real rally car in the driveway.

[ecatbox]

indeed..looks very nice, just like the real deal and almost as dangerous to spectators..eheh

[Redfox]

******* the kyosho mp-6 brake set costs a lot!!! I just called up the hobby store and they was AU$47 for it!! lol... the tower price is $16.99 which is only about AU$30... so i'm feeling very ripped off.

I still really wanna get it tho, although the guy sez that the uni-crank steering that bukkake suggested is gonna cost me AU$62 which is a pretty decent price since tower wants about that much (i'm not saying tower is a good price tho! LOL :) )

Anywayz i have already put the brakes on order and i will get the steering later so that i won't lose a whole chunk of money really quickly and hence feel guilty!

So next time i have the LM up and runnin wiv the new needle set i will have new stainless steel cross drilled brake disks on it. I will be sure to put up a full report on how good they are (although anything beats castor covered nylon brakes, lol).

Til next time amigos... =]

[SixVi6]

Yes.. OK I started a quick site to toss my LM2 pics and a few links on. Its still rough but at least now the pics and the links are in one place now. I'll continue to clean it up, improve it, and add more on those rainy days when I can't run my RC's just like today.

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/index.html

Oh yeah I'm going to experiment wiht some differrent weight silicone diff oil over the weekend. Any sugestions on what weights I should try? I did a search and saw that most are running 5000 front, 7000 center, and 1000 rear just as a baseline in their 1/8 buggies So I'm going ot start there.

Also What effect does it have? Example if I put 7000 into the front will it oversteer? Understeer more or what? I know it will transfer power more evenly to the ground resulting in better traction or in the case of the center diff transfer power more evenly to the front and rear but how will that effect the handling? I like how the LM2 handles out of the box except the diffs unload a bit too easily for my liking.

on a side note.. the smallblock T-maxx is ready to sell I should have another $450 to blow on the LM2 by the weekend. I'm thinking of shocks and an RB 086 pipe and get a 1/8 scale starter box and other stuff in preparation for the future engine whatever that my be. hehehe..

[ecatbox]

now thats the kind of rc junkie talk i like to hear!

site looks good, i especially like the maxx vs. maxxx shot, never had a chance to compare the two in real life...

as far as the oil, setup you mention should work well, i haven't had much of a chance to play with it yet but harald (hf racing) had mentioned using extra stiff oil in the front and picking up some steering...i guess the thicker you go, the more that end acts like a solid axle, so when cornering, the slower-turning inside wheel tries to slow the outside wheel and helps tuck the front end in...or something

as far as shocks, the IFW-30/31s are VERY nice if you have the money...i recently acquired a few sets of the 31s and they are sweet...teflon coated shock body + teflon piston = one smooth shock...think the LM2 uses the shorter shocks front and rear so you probably want either the IFW-30s or the BSW-72 ones mentioned in your optional parts list...either should do nicely but the BSW-72 are really the "bang for the buck" choice ($40 per 2, springs included vs. $60 with no springs for the IFW ones) but the IFWs are silver, slippery and very, very sexy...ehehe

[SixVi6]

Dang.. the silicone oil filled diffs works great. A must do hop up IMO. It does help in the steering a lot. Before the diff oil it would unload one wheel i the turns and loose a lot of steering and speed comming out of a turn. Now it transmits the power a lot smoother and gained a good deal of on throttle steering. I used what most of the buggy guys use as a baseline starting point. 5000 front, 7000 center, 1000 rear and I'm going to try some thicker stuff in the center diff next.

Well today I found a small club that races in a parking lot at a school on saturdays. there was about 15 cars there total and races were mostly just for fun (most of them were whole families out to race rc's). I ran with the single speed mild mod TC's and Super Nitros. It was a blast but the stock tires stink for pavement driving and I found myself using the throttle and powersliding through the turns. Yeah, it looked cool but I wasted the stock tires. Three are totally bald! So I ordered up some New wheels and radial tires from Tower. I'm hoping these will stick better on the pavement so I won't be doing the power slide style driving or else I'll be buying tires by the case!

I also tried the Megatech .21 buggy pipe that is on my t-maxx onto the LM2 to just to see the difference and OMG!! what a difference! That stock pipe is crap! Next item to buy is a pipe for sure.

[Pr0k]

Glad to see you are enjoying your new car! I have been running my lil 4 tec the last couple weeks due to one thing or the other, the Landmax has been down. Got the replacement shock tower today, and tomorrow is suppossed to rain all day so it will be devoted to getting the Landmax ready to roll. I have aluminum radio posts and the Graphite Radio tray, front brace and Center Diff cover. and a couple new wheels and tires to put on. I might even get motivated enough to mask and paint the new subaru body I picked up. Keep us updated on your car, looks like the LM2 is a real winner!

[SixVi6]

A lil 4tec yeah. Its just not the same as the LM's. I really notice now how much the lil TC's get tossed around and beat up by every little bump in the pavement. My LM2 so far has crashed really hard twice and taken out one SNRS4 is a pretty spectuacular crash and nothing has broken. Its really good in the strength department. I've also accidently jumped it pretty good and have had no problems at all. I have a ghood 1/2 gallon through it so far.

I've started to scan the LM2 instructions. Pages 1-17 and 32-37. Also I have the complete GS21R instructions up. Hopfully it will all be done and up by the end of the weekend.

Here is a link to the pics and scans page (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/pics.html)

[ecatbox]

eheh yah...a tc hits a tiny rock at speed and goes flying, landmax just runs over it..don't worry about jumping it either, i think you will have to abuse it more than that to break something...

well done with the LM2 instructions and stuff, all us poor folks are grateful...how long will it be til you have the 2 speed? (ehehe)

p.s. yeah the stock pipe is VERY restrictive...open it up and you will see why...i dremeled off most of that baffle and it works better (still has good bottom end too) and doesn't sound as "coffee can-ish"...real pipe will still walk all over it though

[3434]

Originally posted by bukkake


3434-can you try this pic again and send it to me?

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=574593

Where do I send it to?

[ecatbox]

landmax@*********** for all things landmax

[SixVi6]

I tinkered with the suspension a lot today. Changing positions of the shocks and the links and am now running with 1* rear toe. I'm adding a piece of upswept lexan to the rear wing for more rear downforce at speed. I wish there was a 1/8 on road body that would fit the landmax. It would be a heck of a lot better at speed. Oh well.. make do with what you got. After I get it all set up nicely and get some good shocks its 2 speed time.. but that is all pending when Tower gets them in stock. And I picked up a Stock GS Storm Pipe/Dynamite .21 pipe for $15 at MaxxTraxx. Dirt cheap and a heck of a lot better than a stock pipe! lol.. I hacked up the stock pipe the day after I got the LM broken in. mine now has about a 1.5cm onpening in the baffle. It helped marginally and will be trash as soon as the new pipe gets here.

Darn cold weather! I crash tested the LM2 today on accident. Its about 45*F here which makes high speed runs hard to acomplish on a regular street with bald tires. I was running flat out at high rpms, Spun, and hit a really large curb. The car went flying and landed on the front and flipped several times on the concrete then slid for 10 feet on its lid. when it hit the curb you heard a loud CRACK!! I thought I split it in half but the only issue other than scratches on the body was the servo saver jamed in the full left position. I simply pushed the steering back to where the Saver's cam droped back into place and Done. I'm Impressed.

[ecatbox]

cool, glad to hear nothing got destroyed...the LM2 a-arms look to be pretty beefy and made of that nice near-indestructible plastic, prolly break a tie rod before you could snap one...dunno if the lunsford MP 7.5 turnbuckle kit would fit the LM2 but the hingepin set definitely will...there's another upgrade to waste some money on...gawd i love this hobby

made another tower order...have the 7.5 front carriers and little steel collars coming and i wanna see if i can fit them to the LM1 a-arms and use my overpriced fioroni knuckles...uses the same length pins (according to my cross refencing anyway) so should be doable...and if not i will save it all for the day i find a cheap LM2
ehehehe

[SixVi6]

yeah this hobby gets ya with the hop ups. Even when you think you have it all you dont! lol..

I have a recipe for everyone.. take one LM with bald stock tires a smooth damp cold garage floor add just a coat of nitro cleaner and what do ya get?

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/laynrubber.jpg

lol.. I was cleaning off an old engine with some nitro wash. Then fired up the LM I was holding it in place and I gave it a bit of throttle while warming it up and the tires spun a bit.. I noticed a bit of black on the floor. so I stopped in the leftover nitro wash and water leftovers and nailed the throttle. It left a nice 4 wheels burnout mark!! lol..

I also updated the LM2 (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/index.html) site a bit. I jsut added some recomended hop ups and info and listed my curent setup.

[Pr0k]

Haha the things we do when bored Six!
Well I used part of Sunday to start adding my goodies it was slower than expected due to a flying e-clip! Got some new ones On monday at rippoff rate from the LHS. Had a running ordeal with UPS all day so I was so pissed last night I can't remember where I put the screws to the aluminum radio posts! LOL will go to hardware store tomorrow.

[Pr0k]

Got some nice highcarbon stainless screws at the boat supply house down the street. Had to do some more slight mods on the radio tray, seems it was cut for a non 2 speed. It was binding at the brake and front gear. I am figuring this out as I go, hopefully I won't need to get Bukakke to bail me out!

[SixVi6]

I noticed differences in the radio trays on the the LM's and LM2's vs the buggy conterparts. I Hope the LM2 won't need any mod's to get the 2 speed into it.

Aluminum radio posts.. I was thinking of getting some also from my LHS yesterday but they wanted $14.50 for 4 of the Kyosho ones. Eeek.. tower has them for around $10.00 even with the shipping it would be cheaper to get from tower. I also got my High Grip radials and 5 stars form tower. Yeah! I like! lots more grip.. One problem though I lost a bit of top speed because the radials are about ~3mm's shorter than the stock rally tires. I put the word out for a larger clutch bell among some online friends and picked up a used Kyosho 16t one for $5 which i'll get tomorow but today figured.. ahh heck! and ordered up an 18t from tower. I'll have the GS Storm pipe by tomorow too. I hear the Stock GS pipes is loud.. lol. I can't wait! Anyways anything is better than the stock pipe!

Also I was told by a guy at my LHS after seeing my LM2 run around the back lot that mine moves a lot better than the one they had at the shop for a while.. I told him that I did some crank porting and radiused the carb inlet. The rest is stock. I guess the porting must have helped a lot! It should be fine with a pipe and the 18t bell. I run it a lot in large parking lots so this sould be a lot of fun... :D

I took a few more pics of the LM2 and the Maxxx together..

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_33.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_34.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_35.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_36.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/maxx_45.jpg

[ecatbox]

nice pics, i bet that tmaxx can throw some sand...i have a rc10gt i will eventually set up as a .21 powered sand mixer, with some paddles etc...the kyosho "QRC" baja beetle looks like a real POS, but the body is awesome and will look fairly scale (albeit a little "mad max" with the crazy GT width) next to the landmax...kinda like a old tamiya sand scorcher but with balls, and really big tires..ehehe

as far as the 2 speed, just be sure to get the right one...GTW-20 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAVV1&P=7/) for the LM2...judging from the pic you shouldn't have to modify anything, probably have to move the fuel tank forward a little to clear the clutch bell same as with the LM1...also note the clutch bell they give you, 13/16...obviously way undergeared but it will make for some retarded acceleration, especially with a "real" engine...but the same setup i am working on (with the superten clutch bell) should work for you too...i will post full details/pics etc. here and nitroreview when i finish getting it in there...and a side note, i have used my 2 speed in sand and dirt (contrary to kyoshos recommendations) with no problems..."poor man's chassis protective film" (duct tape) on the underside to keep out rocks and you are golden...the one way bearing in there that allows 2nd gear to take over is pretty well protected inside 1st gear with a washer in front of it, so it doesn't see too much dirt...good idea to keep it clean anyway...the only other moving part is the 2nd gear hub/clutch mechanism and thats pretty simple...you could make a little lexan guard for it easily enough anyways...

and be sure your brakes are adjusted up nice...helps avoid those awkward "sorry, should i call the ambulance?" moments...

the radio posts are certainly expensive for what they really are, if you can find the fioroni ones (OT-BSW54) they are typically cheaper than tower's prices and a prettier shade of blue...and they may be 7075 but i'm not sure about that one...

let me know how the high grip tires hold up, seems like a heroin habit would be cheaper than getting hooked on those bad boys...eheh

got some goodies from tower today myself...the 7.5/LM2 carriers will NOT fit on the LM1 arms (which i should have realized from looking at pictures) but they will fit on the inferno or one of the wide cars...the ends of the LM1 arms don't extend out far enough to reach the hole for the lower hingepin on the carriers, not a problem with the longer inferno a-arms...and side note, burns/nitro crusher arms are too short also but are sort of in-between LM1 and inferno arms in terms of length and fit the stock stuff perfectly (the LM1 uses the burns carriers in front)...hmmm...extra wide landmax with nitro crusher rims and tires = car crushing monster peugeot!

p.s. you may wanna pick up the HD clutch (KC-45) next order, they hold up a lot better than stock, especially with tall gearing...im currently running the inferno with 15/46 gears and a stock clutch and it is something of a torture test for the poor thing...you can see where it's trying to squirm off the pins and escape to freedom...the KC-45 is wider and made of a harder compound

and p.p.s. any way i could get you to measure the height of the 7.5 servo saver/steering assembly?

[SixVi6]

hehe.. Yeah the Maxxxx can throw some sand, woodchips, snow, dirt, TC's, or just about anyhing that gets under its tires.. lol. Its expensive but man its a total blast! The most fun I've had with an RC! But for an All Round Rc the LM2 is there. If I could only have one it would be the LM2.

The 2 speed.. actually the LM2 is all ready for a 2 speed out of the box. The gas tank has a couple mounting positions already drilled on the chassis which the instructions have you use the more forward mount. but I think I may run the 18t and a good High hp engine first. It should have good aceleration and top speed all in one package and my friend reminded me on the maintence of an unenclosed 2 speed. I hated the 2 speed on my RS4 2 but the nice sealed 2 speed on the maxxx is great so I may just run with no 2 speed.

I'm currently running the 16t now with the good tuned pipe and I like! I have the speed that is had with the taller rally tires back and then some. The pipe is a low/mid power pipe and its loud! the loudest pipe I've ever heard.. I like that too! the engine runs a lot cooler now so I'm happy. I'll get a better header/pipe combo when I pick up a new engine.

lol.. Yeah I can hear that, "Ohh.. Well your foot is over there in the lawn. umm you can have the pipe because it looks good sticking out of your stump amd its stoping the bleeding." I've got the brakes covered, They are really good. I'm using the servo that I was originally going to use on the steering on my now in pieces HPI NMT.. hitec digital, something like 100 oz of total overkill total locking up the brakes power on tap but I dial some of it out.. I love this XR3! The high grip tires great so far. After a day of running about 4 tanks of hard running in a dusty parking lot they show little if any wear. Time will tell.

As soon as I dig up some kind of measureing device I'll measure the 7.5 steering.. My calipers are at my friends house and I can't find any tape measures. darn it! I did see that the good Ol' Tower has measuremants for the servo saver/steering on their site. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXVD37

I scanned the rest of the LM2 instructions and a small mid year product panphlet showing the LM2 and its features. I just have to upload them and update the site. Its supposed to be really nice the rest of the weekend for once so I'm hoping to get some good running time in for both of my .21 powered beasts. I'll probably need to buy another gallon of Nitro this weekend for sure.

[ecatbox]

cool, thanks...should have thought to check tower first

and don't blame you for wanting to stick with the single speed, it will be plenty fast off the line with a decent engine, and probably better suited to "dual purpose" type use...any thoughts as to which engine you might get?

[ecatbox]

just occurred to me that if i could fit the GTW-20 2nd gear (43T) on my GT-30, i could run a rather stupefying 16/26 53/43 setup...where is that 3434 fella when you need him?

[SixVi6]

OMG! 26/43... Yeah that would be a rather sick gear. Have good brakes and have any spectators sign a waver before you attempt any high speed runs.. lol.

I've got no idea what engine I'm going to run as of yet. I still have a bunch of other things to buy before that. Shocks, better clutch, steel diff gear, better ring and pinion gears to replace the cast ones, a better starter box and the motor mounts. Hopfully soon I'll have everything I need/want for it before the new engine has to be chosen. I have a side project right now on a body body swap on an old CJ7 that is paying very well and I have two HPI RS4's and a supermaxx .21 conversion to build and get totally RTR that are well paying deals also. Soo busy right now I barely had a chance to run the RC's this weekend! Oh well.. I'm making money.

[Pr0k]

HAHA You are a Wild Man Bukkake, only you would come up with that idea. Lets Do iT!@:D :D :D

[ecatbox]

eheh i know dat feeling...except for the makin money part...i am good at spending it though...

check this out...here's the same numbers as before but with the larger inferno/old-skoo supereight (959, calsonic etc) wheels and rubba...HMMMMMM

[ecatbox]

eheh and i just MADE a tower order...least those gears are only $10...the regular 46T MP5/6/7.5 spur could be made to fit, but theres no 23 tooth screw-on gear...so i guess i haveta go for the gold...i will figure out something

*drools thinking about what a 10 tooth jump would sound like when executed at 28K rpm by deadly picco/cvec combo*
http://***********/gp20/misc/959-ghetto.jpg

[ecatbox]

i could go 18/25 (or 19/26) and 53/46 though if the GTW-20 gear doesn't work out...let 1st push it a little faster before shifting....that is a real tall 2nd gear to pull either way and i will of course need an airport runway to see how i did...and there is no way i am gonna risk trashing the 959 body in the process...have to see if i can find one of those CLK bodies from the ofna gtp to mess up

http://***********/gp20/misc/ofna-clk.jpg

[3434]

Tried to tell you to hang on. Work got crazy and Dover is coming up this weekend. But I had ordered the GTW20-2 gear set and just got them Friday. I don't think they will work. They have a heavy offset to them . About 5mm on first and 12mm on second. Still in the package hook up with you later. But the stock spur from the LM2 will bolt on the one-way holder. So I'm guessing the optional one will too. What to do with second gear????. You are probably going to have problems with the clutch. I did this once with my GT. It wouldn't go five feet without melting the spur gear. Had to push it to stop that from happening. There are two more pinions SU16 24t and SU17 25t

[KIRK S. DECKER]

I was recently browsing through radio control zone when I found this Landmax forum...cool, i was beginning to think I was the only person who realized how great these unique cars are . I have had my LM1 (Lancia) for about a year now and during this time I have really thrashed on this car (while humiliating a few T-maxx and HPI MT owner I might add). Also during this time I have added many option and replacement parts (shck towers, bodies,etc) to my wifes dismay. Just recently I decided to use my LM1 to base a super-modifed touring type car (coincidently along the lines of the project put together by HF racing found in the earlier sections of this thread). This is a great site to bounce ideas off of you guys and get input based upon your experiences with the landmax.
Sorry for all the above rambling, but I do have a question concerning the current topic of drive trains...does anyone know if the two speed tranny (LM1) can be used with a three shoe clutch with option parts IFW-55, IFW-50, ifw-52, And IFW53....this would be for an OS rz reg thread shaft class of engine. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[Pr0k]

Although I have the 2 speed I have only the RG engine and it was installed on the car when I bought it. Bukakke and 3434 are in the middle of a fitting project right now so perhaps can answer your questions. I am a newbie myself but I love my LM1, pretty much bullet proof as opposed to 1/10th scale tourers. Post some pics of your car!

[ecatbox]

you came to the right place for rambling...we award points based on number of paragraphs and derailed trains of thought...tell us of your plans for your super-tourer and get caught up some (for valuable gifts and prizes)

lemme list the parts so we can keep this straight...

KYOC3528 IFW-50 Flywheel, 3 shoe type - Thickness: 10.5mm (20.9mm Including Pins)
KYOC3527 IFW-51 Flywheel, 3 shoe type, for OS with double brake discs - Thickness: 14mm (24.2mm Including Pins)
KYOC4712 IFW-55 Pilot shaft. for threaded engines, with groove for 3 shoe clutch
KYOC3013 IFW-52 Clutch shoes, for 3 shoe flywheel (3) washer included
KYOC3014 IFW-53/M/S Clutch springs, for 3 shoe setup, standard, medium, soft-3015

i don't see any problem with using the 3 shoe, shoes etc. should all fit under the GT-30 bell fine, may have to knock the pins in a bit, but that seems to have more to do with whoever assembled it...can i assume you are using the BSW-22 now? mine measures at about 14mm thick (as does the IFW-51 per towers description) so the 51 might actually be the right one for you to use...prolly wanna take a few quick measurements of the important parts of whatever you are using now to be sure...

i'm not sure how the "standard" springs compare to the others and i can't find the KYOC part number for the medium tension ones anyway (KYOC3016 comes up as ultima clutch shoes, go figger) so i guess standard is the way to go there...

should be a nice setup...i'd like to know how it compares to the KC-45 clutch in terms of performance and wear once you get some runtime on it...and don't be shy, we LIKE hearing what other people want to do with their cars (or at least i do, screw the rest of these jerks) ehehee

3434 - thanks for the info on the GTW-20 gears...didn't order em yet so you might have saved me ten bucks...thinking hard now about alternate 2nd gears...you can see the plain old 46T spur would be about perfect for 2nd too, it's just lacking a big hole in the middle and four more little holes in the right spots...course getting those little holes in the right place is the tricky part...

i think running a steel 1st gear would be a bad idea...even the fiber-plastic stock ones can chew up the steel bell, steel gear would prolly eat it in couple runs, and that superten first gear is aluminum...plus like you said, that doesn't leave many options for 2nd...also i want to keep 1st pretty low so i don't have problems like you mention with the GT, i don't think running a tall 2nd gear will be as big of an issue since the car will already be going pretty fast when it shifts...i will do some cypherin on that right now but i am thinking 18/25 or 19/26 isn't TOO crazy...just kinda shifting the ratios from too-close to "omg thats fast"...any decent engine should be able to pull a 18 or 19 tooth 1st especially with the 53T spur on the GT-30...as i see it, it's more a matter of how fast 1st gear gets the car going and what rpm the engine wants to drop to when it does hit 2nd...lemme run them numbers now

btw, before i forget, talked to oscar again and he reports the FORM superten 4-stroke 4-shoe flywheel and clutch setup is working nicely on his .40 lancia...he even picked up a little top-speed from reducing the clutch slippage with the old (stock i think) kyosho superten clutch (which seems about as crappy as the stock LM clutch, they are both 8mm thick)...i still think the narrowed KC-45 is the way to go but haven't ground mine down yet, too many projects at once, you know how it is ehehe

ok back to the numbers

[ecatbox]

ok, using 19/26 and 53/46 on LM1 with 3.5" tire diameter:

set to shift at 28K rpm, 1st gear takes it to little over 36mph, which corresponds to about 17.5K rpm in 2nd...so roughly 10.5K drop in rpm when it shifts, and top speed of about 60 at 30K rpm (or 78mph at 38K)...not too shabby

on an inferno or old supereight with 4.25" tire diameter, that works out to 51 mph at 28K in first, 8K drop in rpm (to 20K) shifting to 2nd, and 74 mph at 30K (94 mph at 38K)

all numbers from the extremely handy rcca gear calculator:

www.radiocontrolzone.com/cars/calculator.asp

[ecatbox]

lookee here...the 44T spur for 7.5/LM2 (IF-147)...same gear as the 46 less two teeth i guess...not too much use to me as it would stick me with 17/26 and there doesn't seem to be a 17T 1st for the bell i'm using...16/25 would work though, and i already have the 16! hmmmm, time for more math

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAWB7&P=7

p.s. 2002 kyosho catalogs are now in stock (as are some other goodies, like the unis)

p.p.s. added that gear to the parts list (http://***********/gp20/GP-20-parts.txt)

[KIRK S. DECKER]

bukkake


Thank you for the quick response and input. Upon further review of the clutch situation I run into a problem with the pilot shaft. The IFW 55 part has the the bottom of the nut "rounded" to allow the 3 clutch shoes to fit where as the twospeed pilot nut has a hexed bottom...no fit with thee clutch shoes. There is not a problem if both pilots are the same length to fit the larger double
pinion... a direct replacement with IFW-55 (i do not have demensios for IFW-55 to be sure though). If this is not the case I could always do a little "dremel" work to the included two speed pilot to resemble the IFW 55, but I do not have a pic or diagram of what this part looks like, and I want to be sure before I start cutting.... maybe I could install a Fioroni sliding clutch instead, but that is another whole can of worms.
As far as my experince with three-shoed clutches, I have one on my GS Storm buggy. Overall I have had less wear problems and slipping with this type of clutch. Also acceleration seems to be crisper...especially when you drill a 3mm hole in each shoe. Most clutches seem to engage too early even with the "sport type" engines and by lightening the shoes the clutch
"hits" much harder at a higher rpm. I found my self over leaning the bottom carb needle to get the acceleration I needed until I lightened the clutch shoes...this modification made a big difference.

[ecatbox]

you're very welcome...i think we all know how frustrating it can be trying to find the right part with kyosho's cryptic naming scheme and various other annoying things

but today is your lucky day, i happen to have a pic of IFW-55 here for you, fresh from last year's catalog...looks like a few minutes work with the dremel but nothing too major...can't find any dimensions for it either, but i'm pretty sure it's shorter than the GT-30 shaft...another option might be to use the BSW-59 "clutch bell guide" thing to make up the difference using the IFW-55...i would guess the IFW-55 is roughly 3/4" long like the stock kit shaft, while the GT-30 one is 1" long, and the BSW-59 is just shy of having 1/4" of usable 5mm pilot shaft on it to slip inside the bell...*edit* just realized you will have to make a groove in the GT-30 shaft for the springs too, maybe chuck the pilot shaft up in a drill and groove it with a file after knocking the edges down with the dremel


here's da pics:

http://***********/gp20/misc/IFW-55.jpg

and the BSW-59 just in case
http://***********/gp20/misc/bsw59.jpg

and i hear ya on the clutch thing, they also make a optional heavier spring for the KC-45 clutch (KYOC4222 for the spring) that i may experiment with later...i have to grind 2mm or so off the back of the KC-45 shoes to use my fancy clutch bell, hopefully won't need much more lightening than that...ehe...if i get real inspired later on (or suffer from melted clutch syndrome) i might have to try a 3 shoe setup...be a pain to grind 1mm off both sides of 3 clutch shoes though...ahah

[3434]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by bukkake
Re: 3 post bonus, triple word score [/QUOTE

To funny. I have been waiting for that new catalogue. The latest idea I have is to use our stock spur 51t for first and the LM2 spur for second. Kind of a pain in the butt though. I have a good mechanist so thats not a problem. But if I where out a spur then I have to wait.

[SixVi6]

LM2 instructions are all uploaded and good to go.. well at least the pages that have english on them. several pages had usage guidelines and blank notes pages that had not a single lick of english on them.

:D

LM2 Pics, Instructions, and more here.. (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/pics.html)

[ecatbox]

excellent...i will save all those for future reference...thanks again for doing that...

3434- i remembered you wanted one too, thats why i mentioned it...ehee

i ordered some more stuff this morning, LM2 spur in there too...i will see if i can't figure out how to fit one of these with some degree of precision...i was thinking about making some kind of jig to make replacements easier...the 44T might actually be a little small to properly cover the hub part of the 2 speed...the 46T leaves plenty of tooth hanging out, but the "lip" on the hub is a little large to fit inside the recessed part of the gear, so i might have to trim that down and kinda make the hub fit the gear instead of the other way around...the hole in the center of the stock 2nd gear is exactly 1.25" which corresponds nicely to my holesaw bought especially for making brake discs so if i could mount the gear to a piece of scrap wood, find the exact center and hit it with the holesaw, the hard part is done and i could glue the damn thing on...eheh

and now for something completely different...found this snooping around the kyosho japan site

www.kyosho.co.jp/models/car-gp/tr15rally/tr15rally-e.html

mini-landmax! what will they think of next

[evilGearhead]

ive been looking at buying a landmaxx, i already have a snrally, i know that the landmaxx has alot more power, and size, but the ground clearance is the same- can you drive a landmaxx through grass, and rough terrain at all? or is it a dirt-or-gravel only rig?
bcause my snrally gets stuck in my yard, and im looking for a basher, not a roadcar.
is it worth a look, or should i just buy an MT?

thanks

[Redfox]

Evil... >=], the landmax is a hell of a car! About the driving on the grass thing, yeah you can drive it on the grass... (although it depends how tall the grass is!) I took it to my old school in the xmas hols and it ran awesome on the grass oval there. Although let me warn you, it's prone to traction roll pretty easy if you drive it hard!
About the all terrain stuff, i think you'll be very pleasantly surprised which what the landmax can actually stand up to. It's definitely not an on road only car... i think the ideal environment is dirt and gravel, although i've run it through some pretty tough terrain and it worked fine!
It's got a helluva lotta grunt as well, and that's only wiv the stock engine...
But the decision is ultimately up to you, and if you wanted a real basher, i suppose the MT would do the trick nicely...
DOn't go past the landmax tho, cos it is a good combination of speed, agility, handling, terrain handling, and looks...
=]

[ecatbox]

yeah no tall grass, but regular old front yard grass is okay, even if you are as bad about cutting it as me...you can still get hung up on bumpy stuff but filling the diffs with oil like vi6 mentioned should help, since when you do get stuck, it's usually because one wheel is off the ground and spinning wildly...with the oil in, it acts more like a torsen or limited slip diff, and will spin ALL the wheels and help you get unstuck...it's a pretty capable offroader since it's really just a narrowed inferno

p.s. you know you can convert your SNR into a NMT right? same car with bigger wheels and smaller body etc

[3434]

Originally posted by bukkake


and now for something completely different...found this snooping around the kyosho japan site

www.kyosho.co.jp/models/car-gp/tr15rally/tr15rally-e.html

mini-landmax! what will they think of next

I posted about this on the TR-15 thread a few month ago. Thats what it is with different body mounts and front bumper. I think I need three parts to convert mine. And of coarse Tower says it does not exist. Try to get you some pics tonight.

[ecatbox]

always one step ahead! ehehe...it looks like it uses shorter a-arms though, i reckon thats the hard to find part...i think i will stick with the LM, that superten stuff is twice as expensive...haha

[SixVi6]

evilGearhead..

The landmax series are great overall but tall grass can be a problem even if its cut it will wil be slow going. The LM2 has a lot of ground clearance actually more than a SN Rally if you crank it up a bit more than the instructions say and unlike the HPI cars the Landmax 2 does not need a ton of hop ups to be reliable and really strong. I had/have 2 NRs4's, 1 NMT, 1 super nitro onroad, and an Electric MT (the EMT was the best of the bunch imo) and the LM2, stock out of the box, blows them all away in everything but the really rough stuff that the MT's can somewhat handle. But if you are looking to go into the grass. you might want to consider an MP 7.5 Sport over the LM2. If you want an NMT I have a stock rolling chassis NMT with a few extras I could sell you.

[3434]

A-arms are the same. Besides the body the chassis has a new part# TR-01B. But I think the original TR-01 is discontinued. Then the only other parts that are different are TR-10, TR-11, FT-22, FZ-19. The hard ones are the 10 and 11. When I have time I will try to find them.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

evilGEARHEAD

Overall the LM handles most surfaces pretty well (low grass, dirt, gravel, "rough asphalt",etc.), but it does not handle the off-road like a 1/8 scale buggy...the landmax can be thrown off of its line fairly easy by the rougher stuff, sometimes making percision driving tough and there is alot of four wheel drifting (even whe NOT trying to)...but this is what makes the car so fun; it handles like the real thing. If you ever seen rally racing on tv it seems like the cars spend most of the time riding just on the edge of losing control, sometimes power sliding into ditches,fences, and the occasional cameraman or spectator. I definitly recommend the landmax as it is the "premier basher".

[Pr0k]

Yeah there is a golf course Bukkake and myself pass on a weekly basis. Has a nice sand trap and a few jumps right near the road! HAHA has the word landmax written all over it. Now where did I put those fence cutters?

[ecatbox]

that would almost be worth the jail time...damb uppity rich folk wasting all that good land

edit* i still can't stop thinking about a quick blast through the mall

[evilGearhead]

ok, another question about the landmax, at tower, i see the different varieties of the landmax, but no landmax 2.. are all of them for sale landmax 2s? also, why do the prices vary SO much?
the lancia is $500, but the f-150 is $330, isnt the only difference the bodies and wheels?
also, kyosho shows a ford escort version available, which i think is sweet, but where can i find that one? tower doesnt have it.
thanks

[ecatbox]

tower organizes stuff weird...the LM2s are in "R/C Car Kits Nitro-Powered Off-Road - .16 & Up"

links for those:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXANJ3&P=0 (has the wrong pic)
and
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXANJ2&P=0

the LM1s are all in "R/C Car Kits Nitro-Powered On-Road -.16 & Up" on this page:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0093p.pgm?C=CBD

dunno how to explain the price differences between the LM1s other than tower being greedy and trying to get more money for the faster sellers...either that or they jack the prices on the ones that are running low in stock...the prices typically fluctuate wildly, but the lowest i have ever seen em new is about $340...i am too cheap to pay that though, bought all mine on ebay

p.s. the escort seems to be gone from their site...part number for the kit is KYOC0530 and tower says theres no such thing (=discontinued and already swallowed up by the black hole)...but you can buy the body for a mere 80 clams...eheh

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=KYOC2100&P=7

Pr0k has a painted escort body he might sell ya for cheap...and if you buy the alfa at $340 i will give you a fair price for the body set

[Redfox]

I got my escort before they stopped selling it at tower for $309... it was in the daily specials pages, so you might wanna have a look in there every so often just in case it pops in.

=]

[SixVi6]

Yeah tower and many other places including Kyosho call the Landmax 2's -> MP 7.5 Rallys or Subaru Impreza MP-7.5 with no mention of Landmax 2 but the instructions and the box have no mention of MP 7.5 Rally.. its called the Landmax 2. Confused yet? lol.. when I was looking into getting one I was really confused with what was what.

[evilGearhead]

ok, i see... so what is the difference between the lm1 and lm2?
is there a cooling fan on the lm2? parts any harder to find>?

[Pr0k]

Parts are still readily available for the LM1 through Tower or LHS. The LM2 is based on the mp7.5 so parts and hop ups everywhere.

[evilGearhead]

hey , proK, Bukkake mentioned something about you maybe having an extra escort body possibly for sale.. how much?
also, does the Lm2 have the same a-arms as the 7.5 buggy,
is it a much better car than the Lm1?
im seriously thinking about buying one

[Pr0k]

Well at some point I may be willing to get rid of the body, but when he said that we were under the impression that we had some new Subaru bodies. Weren't the right ones and had to return them so the escort Body is currently the only one I have.

[SixVi6]

The LM2 arms are the same shape and material as the 7.5 arms but shorter in length. All of the other 1/8 buggy based rally cars are nothing but buggies, long arms tall wheels and tires and all with really silly looking wide bodies on them. That is why I chose the Lm2 over something like the Ofna GTP and I'm glad I picked the LM2. As far as it being a better car than a Lm1 I can't say. for LM2 hop ups check This link to the RCCA Landmax 2 Super shop.. (http://www.rccaraction.com/rn/articles/kyosho_lmx.asp) They did one heck of an on road buildup on an LM2. Also I have lots of pics during assembly and the entire instructions scanned if you are interested in seeing how the LM2 builds and looks. Right Here (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/pics.html)

[ecatbox]

don't worry, i'll work on him...i have an escort body as well, but it's pretty well used...i stripped the paint off it and i'll probably use it for my basher body

both LMs use their own a-arms, which are shortened versions of the inferno dx II and MP 7.5 respectively

heres my escort if you want to see it...i used this citrus cleaner called "de solve it" to get that ugly paint off, been meaning to paint it for like months now, thinking black or silver

before (http://***********/gp20/misc/escort.jpg) and after (http://***********/gp20/misc/escort2.jpg)

[SixVi6]

What glow plugs, fuel and pipe are you guys using on your GS21's?

I'm runing 30% blue thunder and an McCoy MC-9 with a mega loud Dynamite sport .21 pipe and it really brings the GS21 to life and runs nice.

[ecatbox]

i really like the mccoy plugs too, though i run the MC-59 (in EVERYTHING) with 10-20% blue thunder race or o'donnell preferred, though i have stooped so far as to use traxxas if necessary...

[SixVi6]

sleep? is that why the neighbors get all mad when I run the LM at this time of night err.. morning? lol..

yeah the McCoy plugs rock. I run the 59's when I'm using 20% fuel and usually move to the cooler 9's when I run the 30%. I actually have a last resort can of Traxxas 20% that I use in emergency's only but it will be parting along with my .15 t-maxx on sunday when my friend picks it up.

lol.. I mangled my friends mostly stock RS4 with my LM2. he was struggling to get around the parking lot track a couple friends and I set up. He spun right at the end of the long straight going into a fast turn. Then when he was turning around he drove right out in front of me and I nailed him hard. The poor RS4 spun, caught air, and clipped the cement base of a light pole. The chassis is bent (Which may not be from this crash because he is a horrible clueless driver), the front top plate and the left front suspension is all mangled, and we never found thedog bone or one shock. :confused: he was pissed but I told him in the first place that he is really way out of his league racing his stock RTR RS4 against my old really built .12 CVR powered RS4 2 that I sold to a friend and a .15 CV powered Kyosho V1R <--- I like). I told my buddy straight up that if he could not hang to just get out of the way but he claimed his RS4 would take my LM. lol.. oh well.

[ecatbox]

hahaha...last time me and pr0k ran together it was 4 tec vs. inferno..talk about outclassed...i went pretty easy on him and didn't break anything, though i did catch some air off that little thang..eheeh

and before he starts his whining, he bought the gallon of COOL POWWA and i didn't pay jack, so i guess i can't complain...that stuff does seem extra-stinky though (in a bad, "jesus my nose is burning" kinda way)...and i guess it's the extra castor in the blue thunder, but that stuff smells really good after the fact, every time i get a whiff i feel like a little kid in grampas tool shed or something...maybe thats just the brain tumor

[Pr0k]

ehehe YEAH you big bully! If there is a stock rs4 out there that will stay with an LM2 I would like to see it. Simplw tell the guy he he is not in your same class, there is no shame in that, that is why they have different classes for racing. It's like thinking a chevette can stay with a corvette. I hope to get to run my LM today(weather permitting). Also hope to take my newly aquired mp6 on its maiden run. I have a feeling the 4tec aint gonna see too much use any more (why bother?) but not sure if i will keep it on the shelf or ebay it.

[SixVi6]

grrrr.. he called me today complaining again and I just gave him most of the pars to fix his piece of junk. The only thing I didn't have to give him were the arms. Mabey if he would stop jumping his RS4 off ramps, hitting curbs to see it fly, and take somewhat decent care of it, it would run a lot better and be a lot stronger.

hmmm.. come to think of it yesterday I also gave my neighbors new V1R a good thwack when he spun and it was fine. My old built RS4 and the V1R hit head on and they were both fine also. Heck when dumbass came there yesterday with the crap RS4 he said, "Well my clutch is fried but it still works as long as I run the idle way high." Grrrr... he doens't run a fuel filter either and has all kinds of tunning problems. I'm not calling him when I head out today again with the same two other friends. It was a decent match up with the other two TCs and drivers.

Pr0k.. Yeah once you go .21 everything else is just ohh so cute. lol.. I sold all my smallblock powered RC's because I new that I'd probably never touch them again after I got the LM2. hell I'm thinking of selling my .21 t-maxx and buying an MP 7.5 then I'd have on road and off road with interchangeable parts.

[Redfox]

hey ppl, i'm still waiting for the f*#$ing needle valve set to come. Finding obscure kyosho parts in australia is a nightmare! Then the other nite i found out that maybe the 6520-03 needle valve set has changed, and the new ones don't have the brass hex screw that you may recall i broke about a month or so ago.

So i'm just wondering if anyone knows about whether the brass hex screw that holds the needle valve assembly to the carb case is included in the 6520-03 set. I don't wanna buy a needle assembly for the new gs-21r carb.

Although now i haven't got the stupid part yet, i'm starting to get pissed off. I can get my dad in NY to fedex me a whole new carb! I would get the 6520-03 off tower except it isn't listed there. Maybe i should get the brand new 8mm carb that will supposedly fit the old gs-21r.

I'm paying AU$36 or something for this needle valve set, and for double that price i can get a whole new carb from the states...

Oh btw, what is the diff between the 7 and 8mm new gs21r carb?? and why are they plastic?

Any help would be much appreciated...

cheers,

Chris

[KIRK S. DECKER]

REDFOX

Before you buy a new carb for the GS-21 engine you might want to invevest in another power plant...in the long run it will probably be cheaper and I think you will be happiier. From experience I can tell you that the GS21 is nothing but a hassle. I too had the brass carb fitting break in the matter you described...twice (the second time I was being very carefull, I promise). Also the piston and sleve are ABN and not ABC so therefore they wearout and lose compression fairly quickly making starting difficult ,especially when warm and flameouts more common (replacements are $40 bucks a pop US). Finally, the performance of the GS-21 is poor to fair. I never was able to get it tuned perfectly as the needle positions always seemed to change(the low end would run rich, then run lean, then stall,then run lean again and so forth, all without touching the needle! ) I tried to seal it with gasket silicone to prevent airleaks but no help. I could kick myself in the a** for all the time and money I threw away on this engine....oh yeah, the pull starter and one way bearing will also fail soon (i did have a homemade remedy I got from the TMAXX guys to fix this). The other .21 engines I have used all tuned and ran with out any problems. For one example, I have a "sport" SH 3port engine sold under General Silicones that runs perfect (4 gallons of fuel so far) ... no overheating (another GS21 flaw), starts on the second or third pull everytime, and once I get the needles set (only takes a couple of min. once the engines is warm) the engine performs great and stays at a constant running temp (give or take 5 deg) and never flames out tank after tank. This is just my opinion and I wished someone would have gave me this advice before all my heartache with the GS-21 but I'm sure the other members can give you more input about this subject.

[SixVi6]

I agree.. the GS21 is a pretty weak engine. my t-maxx with a $100 pull start Megatech .21 can beat my GS21 powered LM2. Just about any pull start engine will be more powerfull and easier to tune than the GS21.

[french-fry]

Woo-hoo! I've been folowing the posts here for several weeks now and I finally ordered my very own Landmax 2 with Subaru impreza body. Wow I can't wait till it gets here. This is my high school graduation present since my parents won't let me take a real (or rather, full-size) car to college with me. I'm sure I'll have questions for you guys in the next few days.:)

One last thing, what kind of top speeds can you get with a stock Landmax 2?

Thanks (in advance)

[Pr0k]

Hey I am glad to see the lm2 is being so well received and that this forum is active. Post lotsa pics!! and ask lotsa questions we have some real pros and innovators on this forum, and I will always be around lurking and babbling.

[Redfox]

Heya pplz,

kirk, thanks for your suggestions... i am still waiting for the carb neelde valve replacement and i was just thinking of cancelling the order. Just one thing tho... i was told by many sources that the LM2 new gs21r engine is a much better engine than the original LM gs21r engine cos it doesn't run as hot and is basically a better engine. THe thing is, many of those faults that you pointed out in your post was related to the carb. Like the changing settings in the high and low end needles. Those are def. carb related issues and i was thinkin, if i just buy a brand new carb (the new gs21r one) it should run fairly well. ALso, my engine still has heaps of compression and should run fine. I prolly won't think of upgrading until i lose compression.
But gimme some suggestions for a new .21 engine anywayz!!! i would luv to know what a cheap, yet good .21 engine is for future reference.
Cheers,
Chris

[KIRK S. DECKER]

REDFOX

I too have heard that the new GS21r is a better power plant but I don't really have any personal experience with the new one, but...
I did replace my carb with the "new" one, I bought the "new" heatsink head, and the replacement piston/sleeve was designed different than the original (so I assume it is from the GSR2) leaving me with esentially a GS21R 2 engine (with the exception of the newly designed crank shaft ...I think). Although this did improve my performance/tuning somewhat it was not to the degree I expected and I would have spent my money more wisely on a different engine.
I think your right though; keep running the engine until it dies and then purchase a new engine, keeping in mind what brands have good product support Down Under(for spare parts,etc.) As far as suggestions the OS RG series is very good, both performance wise and reliability. My experience with "sport" SH engines (distributed by Megatech I think) again has been good. From what I read, the Force engines by ofna are also strong and reliable performers. As long as you stick with the "big names" I think you will be OK. Again, I would go with something you can readily get spare parts for so that you don't have to deal with the frutration of trying to find and then wait for parts needed to get you max back on the road.
Finally, maybe I just got a lemon GS21R, but I do know this engine really soured my first "nitro experience" and I was ready to go back to electric. But when I finally replaced this engine I quickly regained my nitro tuning confidence and realized how easy and FUN nitro can be.

[ecatbox]

well, buying the carb is probably the best way to just get it back on the road, the 7 and 8mm ones are the same price, will fit perfectly on your engine, and the 8mm might actually make a difference...i definitely agree with kurt that you don't want to spend any more on the stocker than you absolutely have to, but i know you are a student and laying out the dough for a new engine and all the stuff required to use it (mounts, flywheel, decent clutch etc etc) might be more than you are willing to spend at the moment...i have a couple of kyosho engines i am not using and might be willing to give you the australian student discount on the carb off one of em if you are in need that bad...if you do decide to order from tower, be advised you can also get the GT-30 2 speed for $70 (with special stock number)

with that said, a new engine is about the biggest upgrade you can make and is really an eventuality...i can recommend the ofna/picco sport (which is just a picco ES 4 port that says "ofna" on one side)...has a threaded crank so it requires a minimum of extra stuff, and makes crazy power...plus i understand you can use the piston/sleeves/connecting rod from the higher-level versions ("comp" 6 port and "O-1" 8 port) when it's time for a rebuild and have a truly fearsome pullstart engine...i also understand the ofna hyper 21 is a great engine once you work the kinks out (ripped o-rings in the carb from the factory and a weak pullstart) though i still haven't tried one...it is an sg engine though and requires the sg clutch nut and "bell guide" thing (which is not too bad, extra $8) along with it's own flywheel (which any new engine other than the kyosho will require)...i'm sure the RG is nice but i don't know if it is THAT nice...you can get a hyper 21 for $110usd with manifold, the pullstart RG lists for $180 or so and still requires it's own non-standard manifold (or adapter) in addition to all the other stuff...i also heard a few too many reports of people snapping the crank journal at the front, which is something nobody should ever have to worry about...the ofna/force engine (P4) or it's duratrax cousin (torq 21) can be found pretty cheap sometimes and would make a decent upgrade at the right price...i haven't tried any megatech engines and after my last experience with the company, never will...

another step up and you get into the serious OS and italian racing engines (seemingly all made by either picco or novarossi), more power, more upgrades required (steel gears etc), no pullstart...

my opinon is the best bang for the buck would be a hyper 21 with cvec...power on par with engines three times the price (it is supposedly a more or less direct ripoff of the RB C4 nova engine, but made in china by ho bao) while running longer and COOLER than any gs21 ever dreamed of...

btw, most all the fancy engines come with plastic carbs now, i guess it has something to do with heat/vibration etc...haven't had any weirdness with the picco carb

[Redfox]

Thanks for the tips kirk... i think i'll just keep on running it until it dies. Otherwise i would feel a bit ripped off that i had to buy a shoddy engine with the LM... i at least wanna get good use out of it to make it feel worth it!

I am gonna cancel that order for the needle valve set, and either order one of the new carbs from the hobby shop or order it through tower depending on how much the hobby shop wants. I think they would want a good AU$90 at least for the new carb, and i think i'm right in saying that tower wants US$32 for a new carb.

Btw which one should i get?? both the 8mm and 7mm would fit my gs21r engine right? Just the 8mm has a larger internal diameter right? I think i will go the 8mm... but if anyone knows the diff, then please let me know...

I will prolly go and pick up the new stainless brake disc set that i ordered within the next coupla days cos they called up two days ago to say that it's in stock now! Yay! I have the stopping power, but no friggin power source!!! Lol...

Btw, i am gonna meet up with some bloke around the sydney area (he has a LM too) and figure out what is wrong with my steering.

Chris

[Redfox]

Cool thanks for that info bukkake! =] yeah i think i'm just gonna buy the new carb. My dad is comin home from the states soon and he told me that i can order the carb and he'll bring it back. Btw thanks for the offer of your carbs, but i don't wanna hassle ya too much =]

I'll keep the idea of the hyper 21 in mind for the next time i decide that i gotta waste some money on the car! lol but thanks for the suggestion...

He's also getting me some new shocks... i'm gonna get the large front and rear turbo burns metal shocks. Although now that i think about it, they are US$40 a pair... maybe i should do away with the shocks and get a 2spd!

Hrmmm help me... should i put up with these crappy blue shocks and get a 2 spd, or what?! with the 2 spd, do you use the same centre diff housing?? Or do you get a whole new assembly with a whole new brake kit or what??

I was also thinkin of getting a CVEC pipe seeing as they are only about US$54... pity tower doesn't stock them, cos the carb and the other parts i'm getting would be from tower and i don't really wanna order from another online company because of extra shipping charge...

I think i'll also get a new air filter... my one has had it... i really wanted one of those K&N aluminium filters, but since tower doesn't sell them, i will prolly get the motor saver 15mm of-road .21 filter... is the 15mm the right one to get or should i get the 16mm or 16.5mm??

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBG03&P=0

Anywayz, now i got some stuff to think about! I gotta decide really quick cos i gotta get this stuff ordered within the next day or so... Bukkake, if you wouldn't mind, could you fetch me that part number for the el cheapo 2spd?? Cheers mate....

Later,

Chris

btw i think i'm gonna talke off the cooling fan... It does bugger all and just gets in the way. I am gonna leave the pulley on the crankshaft to hold all the bearings and the clutchbell on, but is there something i could replace that with so i don't need a pulley there?? just curious, that's all...

[ecatbox]

sure thing...stock number is SR3295, good until june 30th at least...other fun codes - ad# 010P2 ($15 off $175 order) or ad# 04240 ($10 off $125 order)

i would get the 2 speed myself...shocks are a necessity, but it's hard to beat a $30 discount...and you may be able to get a better deal on the shocks later

the 2 speed comes complete (no extra brakes though) and fits in the stock center diff housing, biggest mod required is moving the fuel tank a little bit (using the provided holes)

tower does carry the cvec pipes, just not the right one (170)...i dunno if that means cvec is phasing the 170 model out or what, i still see it elsewhere...the new one (165) looks too short to me...

the air filter should work...i get 13mm on the neck with 15mm lip, so try the 15 and tiewrap it on nice and tight...

and i am surprised you have spared the cooling fan this long, you can lose it and replace the pulley with a washer

good luck on getting your steering straightened out (haw haw), if you decide to get real crazy, the BSW-86 ball bearing steering kit is also now IN STOCK (In Limited Quantities)..ehehe

[SixVi6]

french-fry..

Congrats on the purchase of the LM2! I recently bought mine and love it! Its big and fast out of the box. As far as speeds its probably around 35 up close to 40 mph stock depending on the tunning. Its a blast to drive and really needs nothing to be strong and reliable.

The only problem I had with mine was the engine screws coming loose. Even when I cleaned the threads and used the high strength lock tight they eventually came loose form the heat cycling. I fixed that by using some t-maxx motor mount screws. They stick out from the chassis more than I like but they have built in lock washers. I use those with just a small amount of med lock tight and have never had one back out on me.

RedFox..
I have the newest GS21 on my LM2 and I have to say its OK but still runs hotter than any .21 I've had and still is not a real power producer by any means. Its really not worth spending the money to upgrade to the latest GS21 specs. Just get the carb and save some change to get a better engine. The 8mm carb has a larger bore going through the carb. generally the larger carb will give more power in the mid and high rpms and will of course use more fuel in the process.

They now make carbs out of plastic composite to reduce weight, costs and the plastic carb won't heat the fuel up before it gets to the engine therefore it, in theory, makes more power. Also if the engine stalls, an aluminum carb can be so hot the fuel boils off in the carb before it can reach the engine making for impossible restarts. no such problems with the plastic composite carbs.

The Hyper .21 is the best low budget high power engine out there. Lots of power and after you seal the carb up its a great reliable engine. RC Nitro just tested the Hyper on their dyno. It pulled 1.88 hp at 21,000 rpm! lol.. thats better than the much more expensive Megatech .21 7 port "race" engine that pulled only 1.7 hp. lol..

John

[french-fry]

....waiting is the hardest part....*checks his order status for the third time today*

[Redfox]

Bukkake... maaaaaate!! You're a life saver, i swear that's gotta be the cheapest LM 2spd i've ever seen... one thing tho, it sez at the bottom of the page "for on-road use only!" what does that mean ;)
In all seriousness, i realise that if you are runnin a 2spd in the dirt, then it can wind up at shift from the wheelspin right?? I don't wanna get a 2spd and then have to sacrifice my sideways driving skills (or lack of!) for it... although a guy i know has a LM wiv 2spd and he sez it runs fine in the dirt. If you could just confirm.... =]

Lol, now that you've saved me US$30 i can't use the $10 discount! hehehe even if i get the new carb it won't be over $125, hehehe

I'm gonna pick up the new brake set this arvo, and i just rang up and the guy said that it'll be AU$49 *RIP OOOFFFFFFFF* but what can ya do?! *shrug*

SixVi6, thanks for the help... i suppose that all makes sense now about the carb. Seeing as everyone reckons the hyper .21 is a good hp for your buck engine, i'll def. keep that in mind for when i upgrade that engine.
I think i'll stick to my stock pipe now and upgrade when i get a new power plant...

I'll keep you updated...

p.s. bukkake, where did you find that 2spd??? it's obviously not very well advertised on the site, so is there something you know that i don't?!?! ;)

[SixVi6]

lol... waiting oh yeah. I had a long wait for my LM2. Fed Ex damaged the first LM so bad they shipped it back to tower. then Tower just refunded my money and I was still stuck with the stupid shipping and handling fee. The annoying part is I live a few hours away from Tower Hobbies but its far enough that It would not be worth it to drive all the way out there to buy stuff. They got it right the second time around though.

[Pr0k]

SixVi6, is their store open to the public? ehehe if so i would prolly go there just to look at the new toys! We used to have a big old place here , but it closed, now just little places with not too much in stock to look at.
:confused:

[ecatbox]

that number is from the inventory reduction section of the latest speedmart thing, been on special for a while now...

i haven't had any problems using mine in dirt/sand, just put a piece of tape over the opening in the chassis to help keep rocks from getting kicked in there, and keep it clean in general...you will see when you get it that it wouldn't be too hard to make it more or less dirtproof...and as long as it is set correctly, i don't think accidental shifting will be a problem...the nature of it dictates that you have to have to hit a certain rpm for it to shift, stay under that rpm = no shift...so set it at roughly 80% of full throttle like they tell you and you will have to work to get it to shift up at anything under 25mph...not that it can't be done...ehehe

fry - hang in there, it will be worth the wait

[Redfox]

I got my brake disk set.... it swear its the most expensive 6 pieces of metal that i EVER bought... AU$49!!!

Anywayz, i wanna know what glue i'm supposed to use to affix the composite pads to the metal calipers... do you reckon CA, selleys multigrip or a contact adhesive like kwikgrip??

=]

[ecatbox]

i think they recommend rubber cement...little bit of silicone should work even better

p.s. good gawd, thats $25 in real money! (ehehe)

[KIRK S. DECKER]

I just found a goldmine of option parts for the LM1 made by a company that I oddly enough never heard of, GPM. Anyone else on this post have any input on the quality of these products? They carry a line of part including hub carriers, body post sets (both aluminum), graphite radio trays and shock towers etc. Their prices are rather cheap, but from the small pics. the parts look pretty trick. The site that carries this line is www.hobbyetc.com
under "car kits" kyosho I think.

[ecatbox]

yep, theres a mention of them back at the end of page 1...i have heard kinda iffy things about their quality though...and if you think their prices are cheap, i would like to get to know your wallet better...ehehe

did you order your flywheel etc yet?

p.s. you should check out the nitroreview landmax forum if you haven't already...lots of pics and info...and some of the fellers over there have some pretty trick cars

www.nitroreview.com/newforum/forum.cfm?clubid=42

[KIRK S. DECKER]

bukkake,

whoops, I meant to say NOT VERY cheap. I have not ordered the flywheel,but I think I did come up with a solution for the three shoed clutch. I plan to use a pilot shaft engine (either an os, picco, or l collari with a three piece clutch flyweel (kyosho, model depending on engine brand) with mugen aluminum clutch shoes and 1.1 springs....now to make the 2-speed fit (the pilot shaft will be too short for the 2 speed bell) I will probably use onfa cluth bell kit(10099) which comes with various pilot extension tubes and shims and hopefully with some proper shimming and fitting it should all work out. The idea came from an rcaction article where a similar problem arose for.21 conversion of a hpi mt...the two speed could only be put on a non pilot engine; the author instead forego the included "special" pilot nut and used the onfa bell kit, thus ending up with a set up that "looked factory" with some patience.
Also, Im not really woried about how the engine will mount because I will be machining out my own chassis (my step-dad just orderd the 4mm 7075 T6 aluminum for me today)so I can set up the mounts as needed for a perfect fit. This project car will probably take several months secondary to limited time (I'm working between 60-70 hrs per week) and funds (I plan to buy parts a little at a time to appease my wife and not feel to guilty), plus I want this project to be and look good...not just slapped together. I am really looking foreward to the beginning of this "journey".

[french-fry]

Yippeee! I just spent more money!...Err....I mean I bought my radio today. It is a JR XR3 which is FM and digital. Also bought a high-torque servo from hitec. I don't really have any reason to add this pic, but I'm bored and it used up a little time. (Sorry about image quality but my digital camera is one of those palm-pilot cameras....fun and cool, but nowhere near good quality)

[ecatbox]

eheh i kinda figured ($50 for swaybars???)...their prices are insane, roughly twice the cost of the kyosho parts they are copying in some cases...some of their stuff might be okay but i wouldn't try any of the high-stress items (chassis, carriers, a-arms etc)

your project sounds very cool, keep us posted on your progress...is this gonna be a rally car or more of a tourer? (this is probably a dumb question i realize)

[ecatbox]

ahh nice...i got to check out pr0k's XR3 recently...it's a sweet radio...which servo did you get?

and why does nobody like the poor ugly duckling peugeot..ahaa

[french-fry]

The servo I got is a Hitec HS-625MG which does 60 degrees in .18 sec at 4.8 v with a torque of 76.37 oz.-in. and 60 degrees in .15 sec at 6.0 v with a torque of 94.43 oz.-in. It is definately not the strongest servo I could have gotten, but unfortunately *cry* my RC budget is not unlimited. I think it will be perfect for just bashing around.

Oh and the peugot thing...
I considered getting the peugot body (to keep with the French theme), but I already have one on a NIKKO RC that I keep around for kicks. On top of that, the Landmax peugot is the 2001 (or maybe 2002) model and I don't like it as much as my 2000 model (see pic).

[Pr0k]

Yeah that servo will suit your purposes just fine i would recommend you use a 6v that should be more than adequate. BTW nice choice of radios. I like mine alot, still haven't figured out half of it! lol

[french-fry]

Woo-hoo! It's here. I'm off to build...

[Pr0k]

WHAT? no pics of the box? lol enjoy!

[SixVi6]

Sniff.. I remember when I first got my LM2.

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_01.jpg

It seemed like just last month (ohh wait it was a month ago). The excitment. The new car smell. Lock Tight on my fingers... ahhh the memories.

[Redfox]

yay! i just ordered my stuff from tower... dad should be bringin them home from NY in july after my exams, so i shall be up and runnin wiv the 2speed within a month! :)

Kyosho 2-Speed Transmission Assembly GP20 1 69.99
Motor Saver 15mm Off-Road Filter .21 1 18.39
Motor Saver Pre-Filter Off-Road Small 1/8 (6) 1 9.49
Kyosho Carb Assembly 8mm GS-21R New 1 31.99
$10 Promotional Discount 1 -10.00 <------ thanks to you bukkake! =]

[dirtgypsy]

Hi all, I have been lurking here long enough and will be buying an lm2 early next week. I am going to go new from tower. But before I do is there or are there any items I should be picking up to get this thing on the road. I have a futaba radio, hitec 615mg servo and stock servo for throttle/ brake. As for fuel, extra glow plugs, glow starter, or any other nitro equipment, what would you guys recomend. I am totally new to nitro but I figured if I was going to do it I might as well do it right!! Any help is greatly appreciated. btw, you guys have some great looking cars! thanks, dg

[french-fry]

It runs...It runs! Hopefully I didn't wake up the neighbors considering its 11:15 at night. Hehe. Lots of fun! Can't wait for tommorow. Pics later. Must sleep.

[ecatbox]

eheh gotta love the late night maiden voyage...congrats on your new ride

gypsy - it's a good car to learn on i think, fairly simple mechanically and very durable, plus it's a lot easier to keep the 21s running...

i like the blue thunder race or o'donnells, in 20% with a nice mccoy MC-59 plug, runs like a clock and makes good power...glow starters are all the same, i use the cheap plastic ofna one because i usually stop the engine from the flywheel (and use the butt end of the warmer to do so)...i actually prefer the cheaper ones since you can use alkaline batteries if you want, or throw a monster D cell nimh in there and be ready to go either way

as far as building advice, loctite all metal to metal connections (ESPECIALLY the screw on the carb that secures the ball end), check the diffs for mesh, and never start the car with the radio off (not really a building tip but helps prevent nasty accidents on that first run)...oh, and use a throttle return spring ($2 at the hardware store) to put the brakes on and the gas off if the radio loses power for whatever reason...

[Redfox]

Well i got around to installing the brake set tonite! =] I took apart everything except the diffs on both ends, and i cleaned it all up and it looks like new! Well not really, but as close to new as you can get it.

I got some news for you guyz tho... be careful of those nasty aluminium radio trays! Urgh! You know the part that is cut out in the shape of an X where you mount the receiver... well those cut outs are NASTY! cos i folded up my extra wire from the servos and used a cable tie to keep them in a bundle then i stuck them between the receiver and the radio tray. And then the wires actually go through one of the holes in the tray to the servos. Well anywayz, one of these wires has been worn through so that i can actually see the metal wire inside! So i taped it up and i also wrapped tape around the radio tray to stop the wires from rubbing the edges of the metal.

Anywayz, on to the brakes... they work well so far. Since i haven't got a power plant right now, i cant tell you how well they stop the car when it's in full flight, but i can tell you that they work just as good as the original nylon brakes when the car was brand spankin new! As in, you push it fairly fast along the floor and hit the brakes, and it stops on a dime (well actually more like a 5c piece ;) ) but yeah... oh i glued the pads on wiv CA glue and they seem to be ok... but i'll soon find out anywayz.
In fact i think i will have to dial the brakes out some, cos with my lack of index finger coordination in my left hand whilst driving this car, i got a feeling that i'll lock it up all the time... and anywayz, the disks look really schweeeeet... dunno if it's worht AU$49, but it certainly is a helluva lot better than thos crappy nylon disks. I will eventually get around to making an aluminium guard to prevent nitro from getting on the brakes.

Can't wait til the 2 speed, carby and airfilter come!! =]

Later,

Chris

[dirtgypsy]

Hey bukkake thanks for the help. I have a question on the reciver pack. It looks like there are a bunch of different configurations of these things. What pack works with the lm2? And what charger would I need to get to go along with it? thanks again, dg

[SixVi6]

Well they have a universal 2 over 3 layout (kinda like a pyramid stack) or the ofna brick pack will work for sure. I believe that there are also some specific 1/8 scale OFF road packs that have a lower profile that will work also.

As far as chargers. I'm using a dynamite intelipeak charger but I also use it to charge my electric RC's a decent multi purpose charger is the way to go imo. Charging will take just a short time and it peak charges it perfectly but ofna makes an overnight wall charger that will also do the job just fine it just takes a lot longer.


I'm off to run my LM2 and .21 Maxx for a bit.. I'm so busy today!

[SixVi6]

dang it! well I ran the LM2 with an OS RGX engine that I have currently from a thunder quake I'm working on for a friend... lol.. he said to open up the engine and check it out and run it a bit.. he didn't say on what though. anyways I opened the packages on the motor mount, spacer plate, flywheel, new clutch, and the 18t clutchbell I did thes yesterday but didn't get a chance to run it but today..

WOW! is all I can say. its damn fast! over 40 mph with an OSRG.. actually too fast for the radial tires. The tires split along the tread when they began to balloon at high speeds. Buy the slicks for high speed on road stuff. I wonder if there is any way to put foams on the LM2. hmm..

Well I found out the tire problem in a bad way.. I was at high RPM at blazing speed all the sudden something flew out from under the right front of the body, the LM2 spun flipped once and smacked a right angle curb on the right front. It was still running but the chassis was dragging on the ground. Well initially it looks like the chassis is bent in the center, and has a few degrees more kickup on the right side. The center drive is bent hard and the tiny little buggy bumper broke clean off. So I'm going to dissaseble the whole thing and atempt to straighten it out and pick up some center universals for it.. mabey even go all out and grab the Fioroni chassis then drill the GS21 to use the standard motor mount because the Fioroni chassis doesn't have the holes for the GS21 mount but the firioni is also missing the 2 speed and gas tank optional holes but heck 18 t clutchbell and a sick powerfull .21 ... drool ohh and also pick up some slicks. so now Im having a blowout sale on my parted out smallblock T-maxx and anything else I have laying around. lol.. its all gotta go!

[ecatbox]

ack...i hate curbs..

sorry to hear that, i wonder if the GT-39 tires are any better...i checked out the ones that pr0k got and they seem quite soft, the GTW-4 ones must be downright gooey...maybe you could try the monster truck trick and belt em with some of that fiberglas packing tape or something...and let's see some pics of that dead one...my morbid curiosity compels me

ah well, at least you got to see what it can do with a real engine, now you see what i mean about scary fast...imagine that with a cvec and 2 speed...muahaha

gypsy - no prob...and like vi6 says, hump pack or flat pack or really any configuration will work with that radio box, the thing looks huge from the pics, prolly fit lunch in there too in a pinch..flat pack would be ideal due to the lower center of gravity, throw that in there with rx on top and foam in between and surrounding them...everything should stay dry and well protected

chris - sounds good, you are in for some fun...keep it nice and rich for those high speed runs and enjoy...

[SixVi6]

Well I was expecting to find more damage but luckily nothing new. I'll get pics up by tomorow. I can't believe anybody would need a 2-speed. The 18t with the mild power of an RG was impressive.. the 18t and a hairy engine would make for enough speed and power for most. After this crash whew.. I definetely don't need a 2 speed but now I must buy a real engine. so far the parts needed.. chassis, front center shaft, front torque rod, front bumper, and some new wheels and tires. no broken arms, bent turnbuckles or hinge pins. I wish I had a vid cam.. just the sound it made when it smacked the curb was painfull. Oh well I still have the t-maxx to run until I get the parts for the LM2.

I hear ya I hate curbs! My normal place to run the LM2, at a school parking lot with no islands and no curbs, was jam packed because its a beautifull day out and people were using the baseball field and kids at the park.. I ended up on unfimiliar ground and I guess I paid the price. oh well.. Its time go buy a real engine..

RX packs... Yup.. any RX pack will work except a flat pack. Now that I've looked into it a bit there is a specific 1/8 off road pack that will drop perfectly into the 7.5's box. Here it is at tower's site (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXVG15&P=7)

[french-fry]

Wow, my first forray into the world of nitro RC is a definate success. This car is amazing. It is just so much faster than any RC car I have ever owned. Wow! I haven't quite finished putting all of the decals on the car, but I keep having the urge to go out and drive it and the cosmetics are second to performance for sure. I have only had the car for two days and have already put 2/3 of a gallon through it (seems like a lot, but i really don't know). Ok... so on to the tech questions:

First, I'm running a fairly rich mixture, that's good right?
I have only cut out a section of the front windsheild for cooling, is that enough?
What is the best way to clean these things, is an air compressor to powerful?
What is air filter oil, do I have to buy it at my LHS, is it important, or is there a substitute?
Finally, when and how should I clean the air filter?

One more thing, if I put more spacers in the shock that makes the suspension firmer and will make on-road handling better, correct?

Thanks for your help!
-Alex

P.S. I hate curbs too (fortunatley I haven't yet had a run-in with one)

[Redfox]

I think i've finally worked out the problems with the steeering of my car, but i'm gonna have to wait until i get the engine back in working order to test out if i was right.

You guys may recall i had chronic steering problems, like it's pull off left when i gas it, then pull back right when i hit the brakes. Well i found a few bent sus bolts (you know how with the newer LM1 kit, they chucked in the sus bolts instead of the shafts and e-rings...) when i took it apart to clean it yesterday. I've managed to straighten them out pretty good and it was pretty easy seeing as they are made of fairly soft metal. I also seem to recall that one of my real hingepins was bent pretty bad.

From just looking at the car you can't really tell the difference that these bent parts are making, but i think they affect the steering of the car pretty drastically...

So just for future reference, do you think there are any good titanium parts on the market that would be fit to replace these hingepins and sus bolts?

I know i can buy a set of replacement parts, but i feel that they would just as easily bend as the originals... this is the kyosho shaft set that tower is selling. Seems bloody expensive for not much...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXV152

So if you know of any titanium parts that would suit my needs, would someone let me know what they are and where to get 'em??

Thanks =]

oh btw, i was thinking of cutting off the back part of the radio tray (all after the centre diff mount) and replacing that with an aluminium box to store my radio gear in? Do you think this is a good idea or not?? Cos by batteries get mighty dirty where they are now sitting under the tray, and the wires are getting ruined and all. If you think it's a good idea, then could ya lemme know how you suggest i do it and what i should be careful of when i perform the surgery.. =]

[KIRK S. DECKER]

REDFOX,

I am kind of in the same boat as you.. I'am also looking for titanium replacements for the hingepins of my LM1 project car. I know you can buy individual turnbuckles from Lunsford but they only seem to sell hinge pins in "sets" for various kits, and the Inferno kits have been phased out. The closest so far (after a few hours of tedious research...I hate numbers ) seems to be the MP-6 kit , but this does not match the LM kit very well. I asked my step dad (who works in a shop that machines bolts, screws, etc) if I could just machine the oversized hinge pins to fit my needs (shorten and then lathe out a groove for the E clip) but he said this will be very difficult secondary to titanium being very tough to machine (you need special tools or you can damage the metal itself). I guess that is why titanium parts are so gosh-awful expensive. Well I am going to keep researching ( I HAVE have those titanium pins) and I bet between us, and the input of the other guys on this page we will be able to come up with some solution.

[ecatbox]

we could email lunsford to let them know there is still a demand...i would like a set or two myself...they could easily piece it out from their existing stuff, and replace those factory 28mm pins (with the ugly/weak aluminum stopper on it) with their 22mm ones to boot...

chris - the kyosho shaft set is just a replacement, it does include the old style pins though...the radio box idea sounds fine, i was planning on using an MP-5/6 radio box myself...hard to find item at the moment though

[SixVi6]

french-fry

Yes rich is good but too rich will loose power. it should have a nice smooth sound when idling and on the throttle. If it sounds gurgley and acelerates slowly with lots of oil spitting out of the exhaust lean the high end needle out an 1/8 of a turn at a time just until it acelerates well but still has a good trail of smoke pouring out of the exhaust when on the throttle.

For cooling you might also want to cut a hole in the rear window also to let the hot air escape.

A Compressor works well for most dust and dirt just be sure the air filter is zip tied on well when you do it and don't blast air into the filter either. Dirt in the engine is the worst for your engine.

Adding spacers will make it a bit better on road on smoother parking lots but it is more for changing ride height than anything else. The best thing you could do for on road running is lower it down to where the axles are parallel to the ground. This makes for the least amount of axle to drive cup binding and still has good enough ground clearance for most rough parking lots. you can go lower but the chassis will start to smack the ground over bumps and stuff. That will upset the balance and be more likley to spin out and crash.

Curbs.. uuugghh... every RC that I've really hammered good and bent the crap out of chassis and thins were all because of tall right angled curbs. grrr... they should be outlawed! hmm I think its the RC manufactures that are pushing the government to build those to make more money off the hobby.. lol.. OK well probably not but it sounds good. :D

[french-fry]

Thanks for the tips...here are some pics!

[french-fry]

number 2

[french-fry]

and number 3

[ecatbox]

ahhh looks nice...i'm glad you're enjoying it...only downside is i think you will find 10th scale cars oddly unfulfilling after having a landmax...ehehe...hard to get excited about the hot new $300 .12 engines when any old pos 21 makes roughly twice the power...

sorry i missed your questions the other night, i were tired...see if i can't answer the ones john didn't...

cleaning air filters is probably debatable, some people throw them away...i just soap em up good and rinse from the inside out...the ideal is probably the paris K&N ie: k&n filter with a foam prefilter but plain foam seems to work well enough...

you can get bel ray motorcycle filter oil at bike shops, very cheap for a large bottle that will last forever...the associated stuff seems to be a little bit thinner and more expensive, but might be perfect for extra-dense foam filters

beware of putting anything other than the stupidly expensive kyosho filter oil on the stock foams, they will puff up like a marshmallow...best deal i have found on stock type replacements are the ones from the duratrax axis/NQ/ND etc, $3.60 per 3 (DTXC6105) which are supposedly very dense foam and should work well with either bel ray or ae oil (i keep forgetting to get some to try out)

and yes, keep that engine running nice and rich...like the man said, you want to ALWAYS have a nice trail of smoke..and don't be surprised if you have to keep richening the mixture to maintain it, the gs 21s run fairly hot generally speaking, and may take a few minutes of running to truly be at operating temp...

also, there are some excellent engine tuning guides on rcnitro.com and parisracing.com, highly recommended if you haven't checked them out already...and we could spend days discussing handling and setup (and playing GT3), but as relates to the LM, you can limit the ride height with the little setscrews in the arms, which will also load the springs a bit more for a firmer ride and nice high speed handling...only problem there is the little "ears" on the chassis tend to bend up and you also lose full extension of the suspension (say it ten times fast) which can cause some weirdness of it's own (like picking up the inside rear tire on hard cornering)...probably the best way is to physically limit the up and downtravel of the shocks using some sort of bumpstop inside (to limit downtravel to near full extension) and outside on the shaft (to limit uptravel and preserve the body), then tune for proper handling like normal, springs/oil/pistons etc...front and rear swaybars are also available for both landmaxii and allow you to run the suspension softer while still keeping body roll to a minimum and having nice cornering ability...

btw (more for chris, but you may feel the need to upgrade too eheh), the nice blue anodized BSW-72/73 shocks are now $45 per set at tower, down from about $50, and definitely worth the extra $10 total over the BSW-27/28s (at $40 per) though they require either the taller front shock tower (GTW-8, good luck finding one, i'm making my own) or cutting a couple coils off the included front springs...they seem to be completely mechanically identical to the ultra-pricey $60 IFW-30/31 shocks, just not teflon coated inside (but do include teflon pistons, so it may be a more or less moot point)

/end ramble

[ecatbox]

p.s. here's a little present for you rich boiz, freshly scanned from the 2002 catalog

http://***********/gp20/Reference/Landmax2/Tuning-LM2.jpg

LM2 gets a 4 page spread, all inferno and burns based cars (LM1 and nitro crusher) are now officially discontinued i guess, watch for falling prices...parts supplies should be good for another ten years or so

also, i will be glad to compile a LM2 replacement/tuning parts list like my LM1 one (i WILL eventually have a LM2, damn if i am paying $450 for it though)...just let me know so we don't duplicate efforts...first on my list of 7.5 parts to look up is shock towers, i was rather shocked (har har) when i noticed the LM2 has PLASTIC ones...i'm sure they have some nice (and expensive) hard steel gears for it too...i can see it now, a $3000 "Landmax 2 Kanai" with TCD diffs, all steel gears and universals wrapped in sexy fioroni blue...ehehe

[Redfox]

Have you fellas noticed that it's relaly hard to adjust the ride height so it rides lower with just using the grub screws in the sus arms?? Cos the little tabs on the chassis don't stick out enough to make it fairly on-road spec, and in the end the screws end up binding to the edge of the tabs.

What do you ppl reckon is a good fix for that??

[ecatbox]

limit the shock travel and/or cut the springs

[SixVi6]

bukkake..

darn you! lol. just look at all that pretty LM2 stuff you had to go and scan.

What a busy weekend.. had lots of relatives stay over the weekend and could not get a break. I'm going to get th pics of the LM2 damage from the curb crash off the digi cam and get them uploaded now.

On my LM2 curb crash... The tire did not blow apart because of any defect. after I began to look at it I realized that the tear started at some sidewall damage of the tire. The high speeds I was running my LM2 were too much and the tire riped apart starting at the damage.. then tore along some of the tread. So moral of the story check those tires before you run high speeds! Don't learn it the hard way like I did. I'll post the bent chassis pics, and more in a few. It takes a while to get the pics off my vintage (vintage as far as digi cams go.. lol) 1996 Kodak DC40. :)

John

[SixVi6]

OK the pics..

The Body.. (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/8hurtlm2_01.jpg)

Wheel and tire (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/8hurtlm2_02.jpg)

Wheel and tire at a diff angle (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/8hurtlm2_05.jpg)

all the damaged parts (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/8hurtlm2_03.jpg)
The chassis bent so far on initial impact it knocked the gear mech off and chewed up a few teeth pretty well.

Chassis and front drive (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/8hurtlm2_04.jpg)

The chassis from a few angles. (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/8hurtlm2_06.jpg)
The top is the chassis upside down.. the second is the chassis sitting right side up and teh bottom chot in this pic is of a head on view.. Yeah its got some extra chassis kickup.

Also I found that the radio tray was tweaked just a bit but that was an eazy fix and the toque rod just poped off its ball end and survived the crash fine. I'm still looking at a good deal in money to get my LM2 back together but heck.. I will rebuild it... Make it better. :D

[ecatbox]

good gawd...ph33r the 360mph scale speed blowout...how did the sidewalls get damaged enough to let that happen though?

chassis ain't too too bad, but that fioroni one looks pretty beefy, and is sure a nice color

/bad influence

[french-fry]

Do you guys have any ideas for what to do with my radio's third channel?

I was thinking some sort of horn or remotely operated lights to add to the LM2 but any other ideas would be cool.

[french-fry]

Okay...so it looks like my stock shocks are crappy just like everybody else's, fortunately only one of them is leaking. Unfortunately, after not-so-extensive research it appears that the seal between the rod part (not sure on the actual names) and the oil resevoir has come loose. Is there any way to remedy this problem, or do I need to replace the shock with new ones?

Thanks...
Alex

[ecatbox]

flamethrower
water pump (to squirt those pesky onlookers)
extra brake servo for the front (for doing burnouts in the garage) or rear (e-brake turns!)
trigger system for the 4 model rocket engines in back
on-the-fly adjustable downforce rear wing
imitation hydraulic/pneumatic suspension (boing boing boing)
bomb detonation

or maybe just lights or a horn

on a serious note, one of my back-burner projects that i would like to implement is my idea for an all solid-state light system...no linkage or microswitches etc. for the brakes, and 3rd channel activation of the whole system...now i just have to design it..eheh

[ecatbox]

you mean the little seals at the bottom? might be able to slip an o-ring between them and stop the leaking, i never really checked them out because they are so cheesy

[french-fry]

Yah that's where I am having the leakage, but I think I worked it out. It seems that you have to be extremely gentle when getting the bubbles out because otherwise the piston creates a suction and loosens those seals. However, once the shock is completely secured, if the seals haven't loosened, there is no problem because the silicon oil flowing to below the piston equalizes the pressure and no suction is formed. At any rate...I will be saving for new shocks.

Thanks for the ideas on the third channel. Are the exhaust fumes on the car actually flamable, or is that not what you meant when you said flamethrower? My friends are trying to convince me that an afterburner type effect would be sweet. Or better still, run the engine really rich and leave a trail of burning nitro (like in Back to the Future ).

-Alex

[ecatbox]

hahahah...i meant more like "can of butane" flamethrower, but i think i like your idea better...probably mostly oil by the time it comes out though

[Markus]

Hi Landmaxers,

I'm planning on a LM2 as I have 2 MP 7.5's. I could use leftover hop-ups from my 7.5's for the Landmax and have the best basher in the world.

Some questions:

1) Will the MP 7.5 shocks fit on the Landmax? (I've got several spare sets)

2) Anybody know about the Four-Stroke kit for the Landmax??

thanx

[ecatbox]

hiya

the LM2 uses short shocks (BSW-72, IFW-30 etc) all the way around, though i doubt theres any reason you couldnt buy/make taller towers and use all long shocks if you happened to have some...

there is a 4 stroke conversion for the LM2 now, though i don't yet know the part number (unless it's the same GTW-40 kit)...

www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=83265

keep in mind though, you lose about 20K rpm going to the four stroke...torque or not that is real hard to make up with taller gearing (especially since kyosho doesn't really offer anything other than a 20T clutchbell that a .21 could pull pretty easily)...and it adds quite a lot of weight (thats a big motor)...it does sound very cool though

[Markus]

Oh I'm not worried about speed. If I want that I'll just drop one of my R&B buggy motors in.

The Landmax is a very special vehical. It's a fun machine. My MP7.5's are competition racers full of hop-ups costing so much it hurts. Why kust a competition motor costs more trhen a complete landmax!. After every race i strip them apart etc.

I want a landmax just for the fun of driving. I could imafgine a 4 stroker being fun just for the novelty and technology.

Beside I've been lurking on this thread and you guys are all great.

BTW: am willing to answer hop-up comments about diffs etc....

[ecatbox]

ahhh...well you are in the right place, i think they are the funnest rc cars ever...something about the size and those cool bodies...

LM2 would definitely be a good way to get some use out of your spare parts...wasn't trying to turn you off the stroker, it's just a LOT of money to wind up with a landmax thats not much faster than stock (top speed wise anyway)...one of your retired race motors would be ideal and probably surprise you with how hard it pulls with those smaller tires on...and i would love to see a C4 in an LM2..ehehe

not sure what you mean about the diffs...referring to the TCD ones or just in general?

[Markus]

don't have a C4, they are too powerfull for buggys. Very few drivers can handel them. I know several that have them but only one them can drive it properly.

A C4 would shred the tires. I drive S7's. Good all-rounder with plenty of power.

[Markus]

I compared part numbers. The optional turbo medium shocks for the landmax are in fact the standard front shocks of the 7.5 buggy.

Good news! Any replacement Front shocks of the buggy should fit.

[french-fry]

Okay, I have a question:

Does the two speed transmission that Redfox bought work in the LM2 as well, or do I have to buy a more expensive one like the one that is in that scanned catalog page?

Also, do the BSW-72 have threaded bodies, or do they also use spacers?

[Markus]

Originally posted by french-fry
Okay, I have a question:

Does the two speed transmission that Redfox bought work in the LM2 as well, or do I have to buy a more expensive one like the one that is in that scanned catalog page?

Also, do the BSW-72 have threaded bodies, or do they also use spacers?

I'd assume the LM 2 needs different w2 speed tranny. The big difference between MP7.5 and it's predecessors (remember LM2 based on 7.5) is that all the diffs are smaller and lower which reduces gyroscopic effects and lowers the center of gravity. So as we can't tuse MP 6 parts on a MP7.5 I'd assume the same for LM vs LM2.

the BSW-72 are actualy fromnt shocks from pre MP 7.5 but should fit, and yes i think they have spacers...

[ecatbox]

yep, you can use BSW-27 or IFW-30 all around on the LM2, and both of them come with the newer style gray plastic spacers and also the old style black shock collars with screws

whoops knew i forgot something...you need to use GTW-20 for the LM2, unless you feel like getting creative..ehehe

[FastEddy]

test
cant seem to post to other threads just testing.
Sorry,

[ZzS]

I have the LandMax1 and I have been in the nitroreview.com´s forum. And after this also in this forum. I spent once almost 5 hours to read those pages in this forum and that has been cool.
---
Redfox, I had the same carb problem as you some time ago (a broken brass screw), but I got a new carb second-hand. Now I´m back on road.
---
The ground clearance problem: I have replaced the hex screws from the suspension arms with taller screws and put two of them to the rear (instead of a one screw). I snap their bottom off so now they have flat heads. That will help you to get the car a little bit lower.
---
On Sunday happened very weird (and painful) thing. I was just after one month waiting got the car on road with a new carb and 2-speed. First I adjusted the needle valves (then watched the F1 start on TV) and continued running the Max. It was very powerful and it could make some burnout which it had never done before. Boy, that was cool! :D

The first gear was now working so it’s time to get gears changing on fly. Firstly it shifted too quickly but I ENJOYED IT WERY MUCH! The next step screwing had the effect that the second gears didn’t shift until the very end. I tried to adjust it on some way and tested it by keeping it in the air. When the RPM got higher it didn’t change gears. And then it happened. Something broke (I supposed so) and the spur gear started to wear out so the fragments just flied away. Oh, that also broke my hearth (and did a hole to my wallet :eek: ). I was a couple of minutes ago checked those spurs and wondered how could they be in so good condition though I run them over a half an hour.

The spur gears were lost a bit from their teeth but I think I can use them if I fit the engine closer the worn gears. I opened the clutch to check if all were there ok and I noticed the pilot shaft was relatively loose. The flywheel spacer could then move from the flywheel so it made possible to the flywheel rotate without hitting the spacer.

The spacer was damaged so badly so it cannot be used anymore. Therefore I ordered that (part 6520-05). I just wondered if someone knows if I can use the new GS21R’s spacer (6520-40) to my old one?
I have experienced that the parts of the old GS21R are very hard to find :(.

One running time and then a long waiting period again. It “eats into the man” as we say here in Finland :D.
---
Then a question after that long pour out my troubles. Have the Landmax adjustable diffs? Could I adjust them with the tiny hex screw it the sides of them? I first thought those screws would be only for the assembly of the little pins inside the diffs.

[Markus]

>Then a question after that long pour out my troubles. Have the Landmax adjustable diffs? Could I adjust them with the tiny hex screw it the sides of them? I first thought those screws would be only for the assembly of the little pins inside the diffs.

Keep away from that screw irt is purely for assembly. screwing around omnn it could cause you to loose that little rod causing expensivee diff damage.

If you want performance changes from the diff fill (but only app. 2/3rds full) them with different grades of diff oil.

Light in rear (1000) stiff in middle (3000) medium in front (2000)

if you play with the stffness always light stiff medium

hope that helps!

[ecatbox]

i think the new spacer will work, look at v16's page here:

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/GS21_04.JPG

the new one has 2 holes but looks the same

from what you say, it sounds like the pilot shaft came loose...you should always use threadlocker on it and get it nice and tight...i have some big pliers with duct tape on the jaws (as a cushion) that i use to hold the flywheel while tightening the shaft...

that might also account for the play you noticed before, the pilot shaft will take up most of that when tight...you don't want it TOO tight though (to prevent stress on the engine bearings)

the replacement gears here are not too bad (about $13-16) so i hope they are not too expensive in finland...they last a long time when the mesh is set right...i think i told you the trick with using notebook paper to set the gap, works perfectly...

you can see it's been raining here, no fun for me either..ehehe

[ecatbox]

eheheh that looks like some really messed up first person shooter

p.s. i forgot that one...those little setscrews ARE just so you can put the pin in the closed end, you use oil to tune as Markus says

[ZzS]

Everyone has said that you need to upgrade the clutch (shoe?) when using the two speed. What's wrong with the stock one? And which clutch would you recommend to me?

[Redfox]

Yeah that's a good point ZzS... i'm getting a 2 spd in a week or so and i'm curious as to whether my existing clutch is gonna cut it with the big guns... it already looks preedy screwed up.
My clutch has like a metal band around the shoes or something... do all clutches have that?
And do you have to buy kyosho clutches or can you get pretty much any brand?? Do any certain clutches fit specific flywheels??

Btw i got a bit decal happy and chucked some decals on the sides of those black mud guards and also a red kyosho one in the center of the right mud guard and now the car looks waaay better!! hehe i got the idea off of that LM from the nitroreview readers rides... just a thought

Later =]

[SixVi6]

Wow.. this thread is moving along fast!

I got all my parts for my LM2 on friday. Went with a stock chassis instead of an option one. I want to save for a truly sick engine. :) I also picked up GT45's the slicks tires and some fresh 15 spoke wheels. For parking lot surfaces these tires rock! IMO.. get the high grip rally tires for off road and the high grip slicks for on road. I also picked up a 17t clutchbell as well. Now I have my choice of 15-18t clutchbells and with my ported GS21 and dynamite sport tuned pipe the 16t is the best imo for most parking lot fun. I tried the 18t for giggles with the GS21 and it just does not have the power for it but any "real" engine will be up to the task with an 18t for truly silly speed runs. aaargh.. there is too much stuff that I want! between my .21 maxx and the LM2 there is soo much to buy. lol..

[kushami-san]

zzs - answered you over at nitroreview but for the record, KC-45 is recommended for both LM1 and 2, nice heavy duty clutch, stronger material and wider than the stock one

chris - that metal band is the spring, that and the weight of the shoes is what determines when the clutch engages ie: tighter spring or lighter shoes will let the engine get up a little more steam before engaging...you could probably fit shoes from other manufacturers (designed for a two shoe setup anyway) to the stock flywheel, but when you start getting into the more exotic types (4 and 5 shoes, fioroni sliding clutch etc), the right kind of shoes/flywheel are required...i will check out some cheaper alternatives for the 2 shoes, maybe some duratrax or ofna parts

john - heheh you got HOP UP FEVA...i told you this would happen...don't feel bad, i have been infected for months

so the slicks feel like the same compound as the GTW-4/5 tires?

[SixVi6]

the artist formerly known as bukkake...

Yes the slicks feel like the same compound as GTW4/5 mabey even softer but they may just feel softer because they have no tread on them. They are nice and sticky. Unlike the GTW4's its actually hard to get the LM2 to slide around with these tires unless you get into the loose stuff then its like ice.

HOP UP Fever is Right! It reminds me of an old banner I made for fun....

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/sixvi6_04.jpg

John..

[kushami-san]

hahah thats nice! get the kids hooked too i say

parts list updated....now i have to buy a set to verify...damn you

ehehe...they sure LOOK soft in towers pic...if so they are a relative bargain compared to the GTW-4/5 since they should work better and last longer to boot (on pavement anyway)

[SixVi6]

Also the foams that come with the GT45 slicks are nice. they are harder foam and are nicely cut to fit the profile of the rim. The GTW4's foams are a simple rectangle shape with no cutout to fit the rim so they leave a low spot in the center.

hehe.. I got a whole family hooked. a month or so ago I talked to a family that was just blown away by mine and my friends nitro RC's. I gave them the addresses of a couple LHS's and a tower hobbies speedmart I had around plus a few recomendations and figured I'd never see them again but yesterday I went to the school parking lot that I normally frequent when i run my LM2 and they were there with a nice new Losi xxxt sport and an HPI RTR3. lol.. spreading the disease.

[Unobjectionable]

jesus h kyosho christ, they ask me nicely to make a new nick so i do...and they BAN IT...

making a new nick for every few posts will get tedious quick, i will probably be over at nitroreview depending on how long this one lasts

[Unobjectionable]

p.s. yeah its definitely a virus, i have a couple suckers er i mean people hooked now

[Pr0k]

HAHAHA yeah you S O B!! hook line and sinker. SixVi6


BTW SixVi6, I love that art may i use it?

[SixVi6]

yeah go ahead and use it as you wish. I forgot I had it still. and a few others that I made that are funny...

I made this one because there are soo many online RC car parts places that are trying to sell homemaid or homespun parts and other just soo many online RC chops in general I fugured I'd make my own.
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/sixvi6_06.jpg

This was just a silly idea.. I normally go by SixVi6-Camaro on most boards.
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/sixvi6_02.jpg

[Pr0k]

ehehehe thanks dude. BTW I just picked up another Lm1 on ebay, pig in a poke. I will post pics when it gets here.

[bukkake]

i seem to remember a couple of those from maxxtraxx now that i think about it

[Unobjectionable]

hmmm...

[SixVi6]

Yeah I used the Superfastwickedcool' one a lot when all the hack homemaid t-maxx hop up makers were ruinning rampid. I had a ton more that I made for a few other people and for other boards and just for fun but I can't find them all now.

Why did you have to start a new account anyways?

I just realized I know a am addicted to RC.. The alternator is dead on my camaro. it happened friday so what do I do? leave it sit in the driveway and repair the LM2.. then the next day call my parents to take their minivan, that just sits in their driveway anyhow, rather than fix the alternator on the camaro. haha!...

[Unobjectionable]

haha yep you're an addict

bobh asked me to pick a new nick so he wouldn't have to read the apparently steady stream of pr0n-addicted whiners complaining about it, so i made the kushami one, which quit working the same day (today), i dunno if they are anti-japanese fetish or just trying to force me to use the old account (which is now different i see)...too confusing for a simple man like myself

p.s. wow, 1 post and maybe 15 minutes for bukkake to be officially banned...good, i never liked that jerk anyway

[SixVi6]

lol.. well bback to LM related material..

I snagged my moms new camera and unlike my ancient Kodak DC40 frm 1997 her new one can take nice close ups.. so I took pics of my throttle return spring setup.

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_37.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_38.jpg

pretty simple.. I just drilled a hole ino the heat sink head and ran a spring around the engine to the carbs linkage. It works great and you don't have to disconnect it when you take the engine out.

[Redfox]

Ummm when i was talkin about the metal band on the clutch i wasn't referring to the spring. Just below the spring where the clutch actually contacts the clutch bell, each shoe seems to have a metal(?) part stuck onto it.

Well that's what i thought last time i had it apart. When i get the new two-speed i'll check again...
Lets just say that part looks mighty worn, as it should do no doubt!

Anywayz what's a good clutch to get for the LM?? One that maybe is a bit more durable than the stock one, and also how much should i be expecting to pay??

Damn these slow family friends that take what seems like months to get back from the states!!!! I want my 2-speed NOW damnit!! hehehe

[Unobjectionable]

ahh clever...the old maxxx carb flip! ehehe

i run mine from linkage (at servo) to one of the posts on the center diff so, worst case, knock the battery pack out and pop the throttle ball end off and it would still have some brake applied...ideally one would use two springs i guess, a light one (rubberband) on the slide itself in case the linkage came off and one on the brakes to keep it from killing anybody if power/signal is lost


i was going to pick up a dynamite failsafe but i keep hearing tales of iffy quality control, maybe i will try the ofna, about the same price anyway

[Unobjectionable]

Just below the spring where the clutch actually contacts the clutch bell, each shoe seems to have a metal(?) part stuck onto it.

i think thats just material worn off from the bell

here's tower's link for the KC-45, about $20usd...but like i say, there's probably something cheaper that would work, this one lasts real well though, barely visible wear after being heavily abused in my fast car

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=KYOC2990&P=7

[Redfox]

Hey SixVi6... i was just checkin out those pics and i noticed how you've got the carby attached to the engine and that's how they show it in the LM2 pics at the kyosho website. I got a question for ya, seeing as i should be shortly receiving the new carby for my old gs-21r engine from the states....

Where abouts is the low speed needle on this carby?? Cos on the old one it's on the actual slide valve and i recall it gets mighty annoying when trying to adjust the low-end and pumpin the throttle a bit to keep it from stalling, but having your screw driver keep pushing the throttle back in... if ya know what i mean... anywayz is the low end just below the high end?? or is it on the otherside still on the slide? One reason why i ask is because i obviously want the low end adjustment on the exhaust side of the car cos it's very easy to access and tune in that position...

I also noticed that the servo position seems to be different to the
one on my LM1... the part of the servo horn towards the bottom of your pic is just inline with where the brake linkage bar is. The LM1 has both of those brake linkages underneath the top plate of the centre diff mount. Anywayz i was wondering since my set up is different on the LM1, and if i install the new carb in the orientation that it's installed in the LM2, then how do i set up the linkage??? Cos it's obviously pulling the other way than the old carby...

I was thinking of just reversing the pull/push set up on the brake linkages, but is that the only way???

Does anyone know if the new carby comes with the little plastic ball cup to stick on the piano wire to attach it to the ball end on the slide?? Or do i have to go out and buy it myself?

Also, is it possible for the new LM2 radio box to be fitted to the old LM?? Cos i was thinkin the new LM2 radio tray looks mighty similar, just cut off... so maybe the new box would fit in there nicely...

I just had another look at my car and i have a feeling that it's gonna be mighty hard to rig up the throttle linkage to the carby from the servo cos it looks like the diff mount is gonna be in the way. That's if i mount it with the slide on the receiver side of the car. If i mount it the other way it'll be just like the old set up except if the low end needle is on the same side of the carb as the high end, then it will be harder to access than if it was on the exhaust side! ARgh!! Do you ppl see the predicament i'm in???

Any help would be much appreciated. Maybe i'm getting all excited about nothing... :mad:

[Redfox]

Btw i never realised how different the LM2 is to the LM1... like why is the centre diff gear snuggled right up close to one side of the diff mount!? I think that's why the linkages are different set ups right? Correct me if i'm wrong.

Btw i'm also very curious as to what the exact function of the centre diff is!!?? Please enlighten me!!

One more thing, SixVi6, i think you're car needs a little clean up ;) That area around the manifold looks diseased! hehe

LAter pplz

btw, even though i'm getting a new air filter, i still haven't worked out how to keep the airfilter cover (the one for high dust and wet weather conditions) on the actual air filter?! Do you somehow clip it on through that plastic knob that sticks out through the top hole???

[SixVi6]

yup that is just some residue from the clutch and the clutchbell wearing. I noticed some silvery colored residue on my clutch the last time I had it off. I believe it also may have been from the silver spacer rubbing against the clutchbell throwing off some light metal dust.

Yeah I also thought of a dynamite failsafe but never bought one. I also heard that they don't work soo well if you run metal hydride RX packs because when the metal packs dump they go so fast there is not engough voltage for the electronic failsafe to work. I don't know if that is true but when they go they go fast.

I had a setup initially on my LM2 that gently pulled on the brakes but just could not get it set right and got fed up with it. I went for the nice simple throttle spring. I'm nuts with the battery charging anyhow. When either of my RC's take a brake I plug the RX battery into the charger. I had some unplesantness with the maxx and a dead RX pack once and no return spring of any kind. It was not pretty.

[Unobjectionable]

you can mount the carb facing any direction you want, i guess on the LM2 they just flipped it 180 to save money on the throttle linkage they give you (ehehe)

center diff allows the front and rear wheels to rotate at different speeds (as they want to when you go in anything other than a straight line)

the cover thing screws on, shown on this page:

http://***********/gp20/Reference/man13.gif

[Redfox]

OOOHHHHHH!!! so that's what that little blue plastic thing is that i found floating around my box yesterday!! hehehe so ya unscrew the top off the airfilter then chuck on the plastic cover then the little blue thing then screw it all together again.... amazing...
I figured it was something like that! hehe
gtg to brekky now =]

[Unobjectionable]

yeah theres no substitute for a spring, i would just hate to be doing my little speed trials and find out my range was 10 feet shorter than i thought..eheh


mmmmm fooood

[SixVi6]

woo lots of Q's..

Yup I've done all kinds of whacky linkages on RC cars just because. You can try to flip the carb then tinker with the linkages to get it to work. reversing the push to pull or the oposite will work fine. if you have to clear anything you can bend linkages into z shapes and such to clear any objects. just don't do too much of that bending on the brake side because the brakes usually see a good deal more force being applied and it could cause them to bend when you apply the brakes. you will need to get a new ball cup to attach to the carb because I doubt the carb will come with it. lol.. but now that I look at pics of the Lm1 it will be pretty hard to do. that diff is in the way.

The carbs low end is on the slide side on the carb that I have and its annoying on the Lm2 because it is harder to get to.

As far as the different layout on the LM2 vs the LM1 I could not tell ya why they changed what. I do think the layout is much cleaner on the 2's vs the 1's.

the filter wiht the outer shield actually screws onto the standard filter. here are the instructions for the filter from my LM2 (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lm2inst_22.jpg)

haha... you think that is dirty you should see my t-maxx.. its got a layer of dirt cooked onto the engine that just won't go away!

[SixVi6]

Thats not in need of a cleaning... This is. lol. this was an old shot from before I went .21 on my maxx.. but normally its about this dirty.

the center diff just transfers the power to the front and rear. Also it allows for independent adjustment of the braking of the front and rear of the car. You can adjust the front brake to grab and lock up before the rear or make the rear lock up before the front. I have mine adjusted so that both the brakes lock up at the same time.. then I back the endpoint off just until the brakes stop locking up.

[Unobjectionable]

eheh i can't stop thinking about building that "landmax monster" now...full width inferno/7.5 with a landmax body (the toyota one i have would be cute), nitro crusher rims and clod tires

i need to start selling plasma to afford toys

[Redfox]

If the low end is on the slide then it's pretty much the same as the old carby... sooooo i'll prolly keep it in the same orientation as the old carby... although there might be a slight problem! Can the ball end on the slide be rotated around or is it in the fixed position? Cos if it's in the fixed position, then i have to mount it in the LM2 direction because otherwise i won't be able to get the linkage to reach the ball end.
Ahh this is all very confusing!! Hehehe this new carby better be worth it!!

If you aren't familiar with the LM1 set up, the throttle linkage actually goes under the diff mount top plate and hooks up to the slide on the exhaust side of the car. It can do that cos unlike the LM2 the centre diff gear isn't stuck right up close to one side of the diff mount.

Anywayz with a little bit of ingenuity i'm sure i can get it all to work fine! =]

Btw i think the LM1 heat sink head just stinks.......

Also is it easy to get good quality piano wire with one threaded end? I have seen a lot of piano wire that is threaded at one end but it's not all nice and shiny, but rather dull/matt/rough... see with the spring set up and how the piano wire has to slip through that little attachment on the servo arm, i gotta find a wire that won't bind to it or require lubrication to get it to work freely. When it binds then the throttle gets all stuffed up....

[Redfox]

Hey you know how earlier i was talkin about those two metal bands on the outside of my clutch... well i found the stock clutch on the tower site and you can sort of see the two bands i'm talkin about...

http://www.gpmd.com/images/kyoc3047.JPG


see how on the actual clutch shoes where they contact the bell, on the outsides of picture, you can see that different coloured material??? And those two little round sort of holes which hold that part on?? Well basically, my clutch has worn that part quite a lot and you can actually sort of lift up those two metal bands...

Do you see what i mean now?? What exactly are they?! I am guessing that the clutch material is not durable enough to be used to contact the bell, so they stick in these two metal bands to act as the shoes...

Correct me if i'm wrong pls! =]

[Redfox]

Oh looky what i just found...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXU247&P=7


what exactly is this??

http://www.gpmd.com/images/kyoc3546.JPG

it sayz that it's for use on the mp5 with dual disk brakes??? Am i right in saying it's some sort of spacer?? I don't see how dual disk brakes get in the way of the stock flywheel, so why do you need to get this jazzy thing??

:)

i got another question, how exactly does a speed work... I'm gettin one soon and i would like to know exactly how it works! Does anyone have some schematic diagrams to show how the 2 speed changes gear and stuff like that?

All i know is that you adjust a grub screw somewhere that regulates where the clutch for the second gear kicks in...... i think.... pls enlighten me!!

Sorry about all the questions today pplz but i'm very grateful for all ya help!! =]

[Markus]

Differences netween LM 1 and LM 2.

the 1 was based on the MP5/6 buggies which were evolutions. The LM 2 is based on the MP7.5 Buggy which was a major revolution.

The Mp7.5 has a new improved layout of diffs and engine. The diffs are smaller and lighter causing significantly less gyroscopic effects, making flying and turning easier. The motor and the diffs are mounted lower reducing the center of gravity making the car faster in corners etc. In general the Mp7.5 is easier to setup and to drive. I'd assume that all of these advantages are also noticable between LM 2 and LM 1. (but... The MP6 seems a bit more rugged then the 7.5)

hope this info helps.

[SixVi6]

Redfox

That clutch pic is interesting and I have no idea why it has those things in them. I didn't notice anything like that on mine when I had the clutchbell off last. hmm.. you could be right.

The flywheel is interesting. possibly there may be some clearance issues on the rear disks if you run dual disks. I know on most 1/8 buggies I've seen the brakes do come pretty close to the flywheel but I can't way for sure. ohh also it says in the comments its specifically for the OS engines with a standard threaded crankshaft.

2 speeds..

There is a 2nd gear clutch and clutchbell with the 2nd gear spur attached to the clutchbell. There is also a first gear spur that rides on a one way bearing. At lower speeds the 2nd gears clutch is disengaged and only the 1st gear is putting power down. When the RPMs hit a given speed the 2 speed's clutch enguages the clutchbell that has the 2nd gear riding on it and you have 2nd gear. At that point the first gear just freely spins because of the one way bearing that it rides on. I hope that made some sense. basically there is a clutch that enguages 2nd gear and disenguages it when it needs to.

[french-fry]

Okay maybe this isn't directly related to the landmax, but it is indirectly related...Anyway, I am trying to phase out my wimpy energizer rechargeables in favor of a "real" battery pack for both my receiver and transmitter. I went out and got the charger for my JR xr3 radio because it seemed to be the simplest and most direct method. It has one plug for the radio and one for the receiver. But now, I don't know which battery packs to get. What do you guys recommend?

Also, in the meantime, can I use the radio's charger, which says it is for ni-cads to charge my ni-mh energizers?

[Pr0k]

Now when you say "whimpy energizer rechargeable" are these nicads? I have seen some sweet nimh from energizer 1800mah which outlast most packs but you really want 6.V. the packs are rated by Mah most commonly seen are 1000 and 1100 mah. I cant really tell you much about brands.

As far as a charger goes, nimh batteries can be harmed by overcharging when using a ni-cad charger. I have heard of many people that use them with no harm and proper precautions to avoid over charging. You can get an overnight charger fairly cheap 10 bucks or so at you LHS. Or if you have deep pockets you can go for a peak charger just make sure you get one that is for nimh. My buddy likes his "MRC959 super brain" charger, I will tell you my "Intelli-peak pulse Digital" is great. Again all you need to do is get a $10 charger, depends on how deep your pockets are!

[french-fry]

Okay thanks.

Now I'm sort of kicking myself for spending 30 bucks on the JR specific charger.

Stupid no-return policy.

Oh well, live and learn.

[SixVi6]

I run some Rayovac NiMh AA batts in my JR XR3 TX and they rock! they are very high capacity listed as 1400mah on the battery itself so they last long. I would be carefull charging anything NIMh with a charger made for nicads because as said the NiMh batts are sensitive to over charging and excessive heat.

for RX packs I use anyhting that is NiMh and over 1000mah the brand does not really mater. I've used everything from dynamite rx packs to trinity to cheapo ofna ones and they are all the same. just be sure you have the high capacity 1000mah or better ones. I charge my Rx packs with a duratrax intelipeak charger and have had no problems at all. on the LM2 I sugest a standard hump pack (3 cells on the bottom two cells on the top) or the Ofna Brick pack. other configurations will work but you will have to take the rx box apart to get the battery out.