Kyosho Landmax Forum v1.0 [Archive] - Page 3

french-fry

06-19-2002, 02:06 AM

Arghhhh...

Well, I have a new enemy to add to my little black book. First it was curbs, now it is dirt.

I was out with my friends today and we were doing donuts and the like on the baseball diamond at my high school...lots of fun...I rounded second base a little wide, got caught up in the grass and flipped the my LM, I wasn't going very fast, the car only roled once and I landed on my wheels so I kept on going. Little did I know that the air filter had come off. So I keep driving and of course a little while later the engine cuts out. Obviously I know that dirt and engine do not mix. However, I do not know what to do now.

I know at the very least I have to take apart the engine and clean it. But, do I need to replace the sleeve and piston? Should I just scrap the stock GS21R and go for a "real" engine even though my GS21 is only a week and half old, although I have put a gallon through it? If I do go the route of buying a whole new power plant, what should I get? You guys seem to like the hyper .21. Will it drop easily into an LM2? Any advice would be helpful.

Finally, I was curious as to how you guys prime your engine. Had my air filter been zip-tied on I would not have had this problem, but because the only way to prime the engine is to drip a bit of fuel into the carburetor I have to leave it free to be removed.

Oh well, it is summer, and I really don't have anything to do, so this will be a fun (hopefully not too expensive) project. On the bright side my friend did have his video camera and there are some really cool shots that I will try to get up on my web sight sometime soon.

Thanks again, and dirt and curbs beware, I'm out to get you!;)

Unobjectionable

06-19-2002, 03:36 AM

yeah just clean it out and oil it back up, it will probably be okay...i have one where the big o-ring at the backplate had let all kinda crap in...just sprayed it out with WD40, squirted in some marvel mystery oil and it's still going strong

and definitely use the tie-wraps...i prime the engine by covering the exhaust and turning the engine over until the fuel hits the carb

Markus

06-19-2002, 03:55 AM

Batteries!

Just spent last evening stripping down both our MP 7.5's. One is a sport version which shares a lot of parts with the LM.

At the race last weekend 2 of the top drivers burned out servos in the A-Finals. I justgot word what happened.

It Seems that they were using 6 volt NiMh Battery packs. These packs can deliver over 8 volts though and several servos brands don't like that. I'll be offering my NiMh pack on e-bay. Stick with NiCd packs. Servos are expensive!

Redfox

06-19-2002, 04:12 AM

I miss bukkake... :( i'm getting all confused with all these new names!! bukkake mate, which one are you!? Unobjectionable right?!

Btw thanks for the two speed pics... very helpful! =]

I noticed in the pic with the installation of the 2 speed, it sez that you take out the pilot shaft from the engine and replace it with the new one? Is that pretty easy to do, cos i've never actually attempted to take the flywheel off yet... only the clutchbell.

Btw, i remember someone told be in an earlier post that i will have to move the fuel tank, but according to these pics, my fuel tank is already in the proper position! Yay!

Oh and here it sez that 2speeds r for on road only... cos if dirt gets in the tranny it ruins it! Well do you think it would be a good idea for me to fabricate a cover for the tranny and flywheel hole on the bottom of the chassis?? Just to stop all that crap from getting in there... cos i have a HUGE piece of sheet aluminium (0.4mm thick or somethin...) that i think would do the job quite nicely.... tell me what ya reckon.

One more thing, i just rebuilt the front shocks and after i had finished i noticed that unlike before where without the springs you could move the piston and it would stay in place, now the piston springs back into the fully extended position fairly quick (like 1/2 to3/4 of a second)... it's almost as if the plunger doesn't have holes in the sides to let the oil through. But i pulled it apart, checked it again and rebuilt it and it still does that... infact both front shocks do that now. I am sure that there is no air in there and i'm using 40wt shock oil... is this normal?

:D

i am all upset about the new carby again! =[ cos i've had a look at some of the pics and it doesn't look like you can rotate the ball end on the slide so that the carby can be mounted the otherway around! And i was wondering is it possible to loosen the high end need part so that can be rotated around since it's already off-set just a little to be vertical...
http://www.gpmd.com/images/kyog0343.JPG
http://www.gpmd.com/images/kyog0330.JPG
you can see from this pic that it's mounted the opposite way on the new gs21r engine than it was on the old one, and i wanna mount it like the old one. The two probs are the ball on the slide is pointing the wrong way and the high end needle is tilted the wrong way! IS there any way to change this?? I just don't want the low end needle on the right side of the car cos it's too hard to get to....

i would really appreciate some help with the adjusting the tilt of the highend needle because i don't wanna get my carb and break something before i even get it running!!! if ya know what i mean. I would be damn annoyed if something like that brass nut on my old carby broke... grrrrrrrr

I am getting the feeling that i shouldn't try and mess with it and just change the throttle and brake linkages on my car.... tell me what you think...

:confused:

KIRK S. DECKER

06-19-2002, 09:02 AM

REDFOX

Do not fret. The new carb will fit fine on the LM 1 by putting it in the same position as the original....the ball end has a small set screw that allows you to position it any way you want, and the highspeed needle can also be adjusted by using a slotted screwdriver to loosen the aluminum "cap" on the end of the carb assembly and retighten it in the new position (BE VERY CAREFUL WHILE DOING THIS STEP AS TOU CAN EASILY BREAK THE BRASS FITTING AND THEN YOU ARE SCREWED...sorry, I think you already know this?!?!). All you need to do now is get tourself a 3mm? ball cup and replace the original cup on the thottle linkage rod...whalah! better than the original...You no longer have to worry about that small "ballscrew"on the LM carb backing out at the most inoppertune times.

Redfox

06-19-2002, 10:20 AM

Thanks very much kirk! You've made me feel a whole lot better about it now!! DOes the new carb also have a brass screw in it eh?? grrrrrrrr...

cheers mate

KIRK S. DECKER

06-19-2002, 09:37 PM

With some research I have found that OFNA has a part (86000)which is a "19mm to a 17mm hub adapter" to allow inferno owners to mt. 17 mm wheels on the "old stlyle" kyosho hubs (also found on the LM 1and2). by doing this one would be able to mt. OFNA GTP pre-mounted tires (such as 86508-slicks on chrome stars) on the landmax. Has anyone tried doing this? Im not sure if this would be a good idea... (changes in suspension, steering, handling secondary to the different tire/wheel size......and looks...???). I would appreciate any comments or suggestions concerning this topic.
Bukkake, with your researh on the landmax I'm sure you have come across this particular subject at one time or another(I did not see any comments on past posts on this board but I may have missed them?!?!). Any suggestions or comments?

Redfox

06-19-2002, 09:51 PM

Ok so now i am planning to mount the carby in the LM1 position with the slide valve on the exhaust side of the car... what i'm contemplating tho it taking the new carb apart and flipping around the high end needle? Can that be done... cos it might be a little bit annoying having the fuel inlet nipple pointing towards the heatsink head instead of the front of the car.

I assume that this carby is somewhat like the old carby that i busted, and if so, it seems to me that the highend needle assembly can be pointed in any direction.

I am a bit hesitant as to whether i should take apart a brand new carb... ummmm so what do you reckon?? Is it quite easy to put back together again, especially with that little hex nut thingy inside that the brass screw screws into?

Went out and bought some yellow transparent fuel tubing yesterday! Now i have plenty of fuel tubing to play around with instead of that tiny amount supplied by kyosho. I am wondering if it is a good idea to try and fit as much fuel tubing in as i can, cos i have seen pics of other cars where they have fuel tubing coiled up and bound... i presume this is just to allow more fuel in the lines so that if you roll the car it doesn't stall straight away??

Pr0k

06-19-2002, 09:53 PM

Kirk, why not just use hubs from a 7.5? They are 17mm and the lug nutset up is superior. I have to do some research but pretty sure it will work. I have checked the knuckle arms are the same the hub carriers carry a different part number then the LM2.

Unobjectionable

06-20-2002, 12:14 AM

chris - kirk says you can put the ball end wherever you want, relax...even if you couldn't, you can bend all kinda craziness into the throttle rod...i have even set it up to go out and around the center diff before...

a longer fuel line will indeed keep it running longer upside down...i also run a longish pressure line to ensure even pressure and prevent fuel foaming and bubbles...i do prefer the blue aerotrend stuff though because you can see through it (and it doesnt look fruity eheh sorry Pr0k) and yes, i was the bukkake who is now ecatbox and also am me, myself and also i (sometimes)..got it?

the wheels...

i can see possible clearance problems with the exhaust manifold (especially the "real" manifolds) running those big wheels on a landmax...the gtp wheels are the same size as all buggy wheels and would definitely not fit under the landmax bodies either...

this doesn't mean that a full width inferno or indeed 7.5 couldn't be combined with a GTP body and rims for a pretty sweet high speed tourer...thats kinda what i was thinking of, to compliment the custom 2 speed stuff i haven't finished yet either (haha)...the wheelbase is about 5mm shorter on the GTP vs. the inferno (at 325), but since i was going to make the chassis anyway....

put it this way...when ofna releases the new celica body separately, i am all over it...i can get the paint off (comes prepainted white) and it should be about $30 cheaper than what tower gets for the landmax bodies...it looks more scale than the other gtp ones too (that viper makes me cry)

http://***********/gp20/misc/ofna-celica.jpg

Redfox

06-20-2002, 12:35 AM

rightio... how does the long pressure line make it more even??

this yellow fuel line i got is transparent... well semi transparent. Let's just say you can pretty easily see the fuel... and the bubbles.. DOH!

so am i right to flip the high end needle assmebly around or would you advise against it??

i just checked out my old carby and i got another question for y'all... you know the brass screw that i busted which was the beginning of all my problems... well see how it has the little canal with the two holes opposite each other. This part is pretty clearly where the fuel gets sucked through, but my question is do you have to try and align the hole on the inside of the high end needle assembly with those two holes, or even so that they don't line up? I was just wondering whether they are trying to achieve an even fuel flow through both of these holes... or does it just not matter?? I take it the new carb has something along these lines...

also, just outta curiousity... a mate of mine said that the os 4-strokes are gravity feed for fuel, so how exactly does the fuel get to the engine if the tank is mounted where it is??

Unobjectionable

06-20-2002, 01:02 AM

ehehe...try inflating a balloon through a drinking straw, then try inflating it through four of em taped together end to end...you'll see what i mean

i did find a brief mention of it here, but he warns more about having it TOO long and losing fuel pressure, mine are maybe 9-10"...i started doing it with my first gas car, the rc10gt, they recommend in the manual you leave it long and loop it to help prevent the foaming and air bubbles due to "pulses" of pressure from the pipe:

www.parisracing.com/pressureline.htm

what do you mean flip the highend assembly around? you can adjust the angle it sticks out at, flipped around would be pointing straight down..ehehe...listen to kirk though, go easy when you re-tighten it, if you do have to relocate it to avoid hitting the head or something...

if you mean flip the whole carb 180 degrees (from the LM2 setup) so it works like what you are used to, yeah i thought thats what we were talking about...eheh...

not sure about the carb part, i will look at it...and i just checked a pic of oscars .40 landmax, he has a pressure line from the muffler to tank, so i think in this case, they must have been referring to how the valvetrain gets fuel (read OIL) since there is no resevoir of oil in the crankcase to pump up there, which would be pressure feed

edit: i wish they had an edit counter for each post, i prolly average 5 per

Unobjectionable

06-20-2002, 01:41 AM

okay, just had a look at that piece...it's threaded so i don't know how you would adjust the holes other than shimming (and risking a leaky carb)...i drew a line across the head of the bolt parallel with the holes and they don't line up like you would think...both sideways would be the optimum i guess, best i can get with this one is one up one down...therefore, i doubt it makes a significant difference...as long as the fuel has enough room to flow around the brass part i guess it can find it's way into the holes...the "path of least resistance" from the high end needle is that groove anyway

p.s. i tightened it back FINGER-TIGHT (do they say that in oz? means tight as you can get it with your fingers) then just under a quarter turn with the wrench, slow and careful (you can feel any bolt/screw stretch going into metal, the trick is to stop just when it starts to)...you could probably loctite at the back of the threads (or silicone there and at the junctions) if you were worried about it coming off or leaking, generally speaking a good idea anyway...just use it sparingly and keep it out of the engine

SixVi6

06-20-2002, 02:01 AM

woohoo.. I ordered up a hyper for $116. I can't wait I'll have it by friday and I already picked up the bearing I need to fix the .21 megatech that I run in my maxxx. I think I'll try the hyper in the LM2 first because I'm worried about the stock diffs on my maxx.. but the only problem is I'm missing one of my engine mount spacers with the motor mount still atached to it. I can't find it anywhere. grrr.. and tower is out of stock of them both. I'm takin' a trip to one of the LHS's tomorow so they might have what I need. I hope. If not then the hyper will get broken in and run on the Maxx for a bit until tower gets what I need back in stock. Oh well.. I was hoping to have a real engine on my LM2 by next week since I'm on vacation then. oh well.. the Lm2 still runs.

Unobjectionable

06-20-2002, 02:40 AM

sweet...where did you get it?

if you can't find the mounts, try ace or nationalrc, they carry a good bit of 7.5 parts too

Redfox

06-20-2002, 07:29 AM

Bukkake, when i said flip the high end needle around i mean take it off and rotate it so that the highend needle is still pointing up, but the fuel inlet nipple is facing the otherway! COs if i mounted the new carb in the direction of the LM1 mounting, then the fuel nipple would be facing the heatsink. I want it facing the fuel tank to get the fuel line there instead of bending it around the back of the carby? DOes that make sense??

KIRK S. DECKER

06-20-2002, 12:50 PM

REDFOX,

The high end needle can be dissassembled and rotated 180 so that the fuel inlet nipple is in the same position as on the original, and also don't worry about the two holes on the brass srcew, they dont have to line up with anything. The reason Im so confident about your whole carb problem is because I went through the the same dillema step by step (from the broken brass screw to the position of the inlet holes on the brassscrew) .........this part is almost scarry. I thought I was the only one who would worry about such a small detail like the position of those small holes on that brass scew. we RC guys must all think alike and obsess about the same little things(my wife calls me "professor obsessor"). My brother on the other hand would have been like "screw it, slap that piece of **** carb on and if it does not work right then you must have put something on wrong...worry about it then!"
I digress.

One more thing, I also added a second red o ring seal (from my first LM carb) onto the other side of the high end needle assembly (if you look you will see what I mean, there is a groove on each side of the high end needle assembly where it interfaces with the carb body. A red oring can fit on both sides for a better air seal...I dont know why they only included one?) Also i sealed (CAREFULLY) the aluminum "nut" with high temp gasket seal (be very careful when tightening that nut as per bukkake unless you want to start all over again!). Also seal the base of the carb body to where it attaches to the engine (use sparingly AND DO NOT GET ANY IN THE ENGINE) and if you feel real ambitious, you can also seal the backplate to the engine. All this "sealing" should keep air out and allow you to tune the engine easier.

Basically REDFOX , you can set up the new carb just like the original very easily and with no problems...just have to change a few pieces around.

SixVi6

06-20-2002, 01:02 PM

well I posted on maxxtraxx and got a bunch of replies but most were too much $$$... $130-$150+ or didn't not have them in stock.. then I got an e-mail from EngineNut (his maxxtraxx sn). I know that he has sold Hyper's to lots of other people, the price was right, I had just enough in the paypal account to cover it. I can't wait. I hope the driveline holds up in the maxx. I called a couple LHS's to see if they had the engine mount and spacer but no luck. Oh well I'm in no real hurry. I'll shoot an email to National Rc and see if they have the stuff.. if not then I'll be waiting on tower because they usually get stuff from Kyosho before anyplace else does.

Redfox

06-20-2002, 10:26 PM

Cool thanks for the info professor kirk ;)

Yeah i was also concerned with little detail such as which way around does the little hex nut go inside the carb. You know the thing that you screw the brass nut into? Cos it's got two different holes sizes, although i've come ot the conclusion that the big hole end of the nut should face the high end needle assembly...

I dont' really wanna touch the carby too much but i suppose it's pretty simple to set it up like the original if i am careful and pay attention. All i'm worried about is snapping that stupid brass thing again! Argh... do all carburetors have that problem or just the kyosho ones? Maybe we should write to kyosho and tell them that it just plain sux! Apparently lotsa ppl have had that thing snap!

About that little red o-ring, i think they figured that the black rubber washer that goes between the brass screw head (on the old carb) and the aluminium thing (on the new carb) is plenty of sealing to keep the air out. But i guess i might as well use that other o-ring to make it super air tight.

Should be getting the new carb in 6 dayz!! Yay! It's about friggin time too... do you guyz understand that pain and suffering i have had to endure not being able to run the car for the last 2 months or so?! Everyday i just sit here and stare at it :rolleyes:
Oh well...

Btw, anyone have any hints about anything to do with installing the 2-speed? anything that i should be careful with or anything that might break easily if i'm not careful??

Cheers maties!

Chris :)

french-fry

06-20-2002, 10:37 PM

Help...

Okay, so following the whole dirt in the engine episode, I dismantled everything cleaned it all out and rebuilt it. However, I still cannot get it to run properly: every time I give it gas, there seems to be a sort of delay and then the power comes but doesn't go away for about a second. Then, when it returns to idle, it slowly but surely drops lower and lower in revs until it dies. What am I doing wrong. I reset the carb needles to be a bit richer since I rebuilt the engine, but otherwise everything is unchanged. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

moep

06-21-2002, 02:50 AM

How does your engine sound when you give WOT out of idle?
Does it rev down and clear after one second or rev up and bog until it launches?

It's normal for a good .21 to die after ~8-10 seconds of idle.
Just tune the top-end needle first, then adjust the low-end needle after the best throttle response. if it dies after 10 sec, its just right. :)

I'm not familiar with Landmaxes, but I guess you've got a .21 in there... ;)

SixVi6

06-21-2002, 06:34 PM

I dissagree with teh 10 sec idle thing. I've never had a nitro engine that could only idle for 10 seconds. I can let all my nitros sit and idle for a good minute before it begins to show signs of stalling.

french-fry.

How much did you turn the needles when you put it back together? you sould only adjust them just a little at a time, by a little I mean like 1/8 turn. When it bogs does it sound all gurgly and spew out a lot of smoke then go? if it does its too rich.

If the low end is too to lean when you hit the throttle it will hesitate and bog for just a second then go.

The GS21 will also stall abruptly while on the throttle if the high end is too lean.

There should be good a trail of smoke comming off the exhaust when you are acelerating through the lower and mid RPMs. when you get up to high RPMs towards the top speed limit it will have less smoke, which is normal.

Oh yeah I got the .21 Hyper today and just reassembled the .21 megatech with a fresh rear bearing.. too bad its just all together too hot out to drop the hyper into the maxx and break it in. I want to run my .21 megatech and the hyper on the t-maxx and LM2 to see which has more power and at what RPMs I have a feeling the Hyper is more powerfull therefore will break the megear t-maxx driveline easier so the hyper will probably end up in the LM2.

Unobjectionable

06-21-2002, 09:09 PM

might be a good time to check those diffs!

i have seen the engine nut guy on ebay, he gave you a much better deal than he's givin those suckers..ahaha

french-fry - yeah it sounds like maybe it's just super-rich...try starting about 2.5-3 turns out on highend and see if it's any better...i don't think its an air leak, they generally make it seem to be running lean...lowend should be more or less as directed, with the groove "semi-flush" with it's housing

chris - installing the 2 speed is cake, little weird with the stock engine but not bad, just use loctite on all the metal to metal connections (including the engine mount screws and the little drive cups on the 2 speed, they seem to either come supertight or about to fall out) and set the mesh with a piece of notebook paper...

a quick way to check the 2 speed mesh that i mentioned before, push the car backwards fast (with engine off) then stop, the bell and spurs should freewheel smoothly for a few seconds, not make a horrible GRAAAACK noise

Redfox

06-21-2002, 09:22 PM

Cool, thanks bukkake... i'm still-a-waiting for my stuff to get here!!! *taps foot on the floor* :rolleyes:

Hey i got a question that isn't exactly about the LM, but i've noticed this several times with my engine and now a friend of mines engine.

I am gettign a helluva lot better at tuning engines and i helped my mate the other day break in his nitro. When i went back the next day he was having starting troubles cos he'd fiddled with the needle settings. Anywayz, my question is, you know when your engine stalls and pretty much rips the pullstart back into the housing??? What is the cause of that? Is that normal for the engine to rip in the pullstart really quick when the engine dies?

KIRK S. DECKER

06-21-2002, 11:35 PM

BUKKAKE

I was wondering how your modified two speed tranny came along. Looking at the 2 speed gear ratio, you are right about it being undergeared, especially for a hot engine. I was planning on dropping in a picco/ofna comp 0-1 (rated at 2.7 hp.... various reviews report it has ok bottom end punch but great midrange and insane topend speed) into my project tourer. With out taller
gearing Im pretty sure this engine will shred those slicks off of the line. (i already filled my gear boxes with hardend steel gears and center universal drive shafts to handle the new power as well as designing a 5mm 7075 chasis and 6061 braces to keep chasis flex to an absolute mininum with all that raw torque.)
Your comments will be greatly appreciated.

Unobjectionable

06-22-2002, 03:44 PM

well, like most of my projects, it's still unfinished...ehee...i did rethink the whole 2nd gear thing, i will still use the 46T gear as 2nd, but it makes more sense to mount it from the other side (ie: backwards from stock 2nd gear) and modify the 2nd gear hub and transmission "spacer" to make the tranny fit the gear, instead of the other way around...i still have to play around with this some, but it should all fit in there

i still have to finish the clutch bell thing also, i will see if i can't make a little progress on that this coming week and get some pics and info up about it...i think a 16/19 is probably more than enough top speed in reality, i just want to have something i can cause serious damage with

one other thing i am planning and would recommend to anybody with a GT-30...replace those bronze bushings in the hub with 6x12mm bearings...i haven't had any failure problems but you can guess what will happen when the bushings get some wear on em

which universals are you using? i figured either the MP 5 or 6 ones would fit, but haven't taken the time to compare the stock cups and bones with tower's measurements...i would love some of the steel diff gears but my GAWD they are pricey

your project sounds awesome, i can't wait to see some pics...let me know if you need a place to put em, you can have your own page on the site if you want...

chris - i have had that happen too...yank the pullstart and it fires and yanks back...not sure what the cause of it is, i kinda think that the engine fires before TDC and kicks back for part of a revolution...i may be completely wrong on that one but i had a full size car that used to do that...shut it off hot and it would "diesel" BACKWARDS...make a terrible death rattle noise and keep running backwards, verified by the car trying to go backwards when i would drop the clutch in 2nd to try and kill it...ehehe

french-fry

06-22-2002, 04:16 PM

Having become somewhat (ok very) frustrated with my now twice-rebuilt GS21R, I have started exploring alternatives to fixing it: mainly finding a better, new engine. So, my question is, what engine would be a good replacement? I am not looking for anything too much more than 200 bucks, but am hoping for something will drop into my LM2 without much fuss.

Thanks
-Alex

Pr0k

06-22-2002, 09:26 PM

French Fry, the hyper 21 is sweet for the price about 120 bucks. see V16's post where he got one. Th OS RG is another favorite and will fit right in. almost any .21 will work might have to do some slight mods on some or get mounting blocks, the rg is a direct match up.

Redfox

06-22-2002, 10:37 PM

Hey bukkake, you know how you said to replace the bushing in the gt-30 with 6x12mm bearings... well where exactly are the bushings?? i haven't pulled apart my centre diff mount recently and i figured i might as well get the bearings in there before i install my 2-speed... whereabouts are these bushing located?? there are bearings holding the centre diff in the diff mount right?

also i'm curious about those universals kirk is putting in... am i correct in saying that you can mount universals inplace of the stock dogbones for the centre drive shafts?

:D

Redfox

06-23-2002, 06:15 AM

My masterpiece is now complete!!! Lol, tonight i should've been studying for a big exam tomorrow, but no... i was polishing my pipe!

Following my discovery of Pr0k's thread in the nitroreview landmax forum about polishing the stock pipe, i got all excited about making this dull looking piece of **** into a goodlooking masterpiece that might even pass for a tuned pipe!!

btw this is Pr0k's thread:

http://www.nitroreview.com/newforum/forum2.cfm?TopicID=1204&clubid=42

Well when i get the chance i'll take a digital photo of the pipe cos it looks splendid... no really, it does!

I started out with a very dull matt stock pipe and the inside cone piece had burnt castor stuck on it. Also had some baked on dirt on the outside that didn't come off when i cleaned the whole car. I then used a bit of wet'n'dry 800 grade paper and systematically went through each piece of the pipe and polished it. I did both the outsides and the insides, and then i used some fine 1200 grade paper to do the outsides of the pipe. Then i got stuck into it with some automotive metal polish called "autosol". In the nitroreview thread, some of the guys were talkin about something called "MOthers mag & aluminium polish"... must be sorta the same stuff. But basically i got close to a mirror finish on my pipe now. Well not mirror yet. I would probably have to use 2000 grade paper and spend a while with the autosol, but it can be done!

THat's the latest news about my car! lol still hasn't been run yet!! I'm getting used to seeing a clean car so it might come as a shock when i end up running it!!! lol

:D

oh one more thing... do you think the aluminium will stay this shiny or get very dull due to oxidation? Cos when you buy aluminium tuned pipes that are this shiny, then usually stay this shiny right? So i am assuming i won't have to polish this all the time...

Pr0k

06-23-2002, 06:41 AM

Although, the aluminum will oxidize, it will do so at a very slow rate. A once over with the cleaner of choice once every few months will keep it nice and shiny. On another note I am working on polishing an ofna pipe that was sand cast, talk about some serious sanding. I have used 220 grit to get a close to workable finish and will work in stages up to 600 grit, at that point it is time for the polishing wheel.

Redfox

06-23-2002, 07:57 AM

I never knew that polishing pipes could be so fun and rewarding! Hey there is one thing i have noticed when i took the pipe off the car... you know the little rubber angle joint that joins the manifold and pipe, well i think it's sort of somehow deteriorated. It looks in fine condition, but if you squash the open end of it, it seems to stay in the sort of shape and slowly move back into it's proper shape. It never did this when it was new, so i figure that it isn't gonna last forever. I remember reading that this part took ages to order... =[
Anywayz i reckon it'll last the life of the engine and i'll just get a new engine pipe and manifold. That should do the trick! =]

I'm still very impressed by the shiny pipe look... i can't keep my eyes off of it!!!! lol :D

Pr0k

06-23-2002, 08:56 AM

Yes that is what we call the Bling Bling Factor here in the states!!! Shiny riced out rally cars. Hell they better LOOK good, we look it them more than run em it seems. LOL

Redfox

06-23-2002, 10:12 AM

Hey i'm just a little curious why some people mount their fuel tank facing the otherway... ie the lid opens towards the front? Is this so they can fuel through the front window or something? I ain't got a hole in my windscreen. I got two side windows cut out so it works out better for me that way... hrmmmmmm

jeroen

06-23-2002, 08:04 PM

want to see a real polished stock pipe check it out

http://groups.msn.com/kyosholandmax/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=47

Unobjectionable

06-23-2002, 08:29 PM

makes sense i guess...i generally forget to put the body on in the first place..eheheh

the 6x12 bushings i mentioned are in the transmssion unit itself, in the 2nd gear hub (you can see them in the exploded diagram)...the rest of the car uses all 8x16mm bearings, which is nice (instead of 12 different sizes of weirdo bearings ala ofna)

the optional bb steering does use 6x10mm bearings though, i believe this is the same on both cars...btw, did you ever meet up with the guy in sydney?

am i correct in saying that you can mount universals inplace of the stock dogbones for the centre drive shafts?

yep...we will wait on kirk for the part numbers, but i would guess they are the MP-5 parts IFW-12 and 13 (or maybe just two 12s?)...note also that MIP makes cvd equivalents, be nice if they would make us some cvd outdrives too

french-fry - yeah i think the hyper 21 or ofna/picco sport are the best choice for cheap pullstart engines...the hyper has the sg shaft and will need an extra $10 worth of parts to use, the picco has threaded crank but costs about $10 more...the RG is way overpriced in my opinion for what it is ($180 for the pullstart version) and has it's own os/kyosho conspiracy weirdness that requires you to buy more stuff to fit it...

generally speaking, any new engine is going to require the adjustable engine mounts and a new flywheel, so don't forget to factor that into your budget...upon checking, i find the 7.5 comes with the KC-45 clutch stock, so that's one less thing to buy..ehehe

edit* eheh i have one of those pipes too, nice and loud

Redfox

06-23-2002, 08:55 PM

Nah i haven't met up with that guy in sydney yet. I haven't got the car running since i started talkin to him... and i'm also in uni exams right now. But when i finish i should have the car finished and we'll meet up at the castle hill off road track... Although i have a feeling that my car is gonna get an ass whipping!! he's about to drop in his 4-stroke into the LM... just waiting for hte right motor mount... =[

I take it that it's a good idea to change those bushing in the tranny unit like you suggested then... i think when i get my stuff from the states, i will go out one day and buy everything i need...

6x12mm bearings
cable ties
bigger fuel bottle
cable ties
cable ties :D (i swear you can never have enough of the buggers!)

Um oh btw last nite i put on a cable tie and fuel tubing as a grab handle for my fuel tank... then i opened the tank and *SNAAAP*... one side of the fuel tank lid spring snapped... =[
The lid still closes pretty well but it's just not as tight as it could be... I don't suppose i can get a new spring? i gotta buy a hwole new fuel tank. I will just put up with this one until the otherside snaps....

jeroen... that is the shiniest thing i have ever seen. That's it! I am taking my pipe off again and i'm gonna polish it even more!!! Maybe i do need an electric polishing wheel!! I'll see if i can find one... i'm sure we have one floating around the garage somewhere!

It's kinda hard with the new stock pipe to get in and around all the nooks and crannies to polish it.. especially around the screw tabs and the end part where the pressure tube goes... i suppose i just gotta be patient.

Since it is sunny this morning, i can see all the tiny little scrath marks on the pipe cos i didn't use a fine enough grade. So i am gonna go to the hardware store and get some finer wet'n'dry... should do the trick :D

Unobjectionable

06-23-2002, 09:18 PM

hehe obsessive polishing...and yes, i polished mine too (and cut out some of that baffle), really need a dremel to get in the tight spots...

and i have good news (kinda), in a rare move for kyosho, they DO sell the spring separately...KYOC4881 BSW-66 *edit* haha $8.50 for a damn spring, thats crazy...the whole tank is $16, i'm not sure which is more offensive to my ch33pniss

is the guy in sydney luke with the ST? cool that you found somebody relatively close to run with, and it will be extra fun to run em together on a track

Redfox

06-23-2002, 09:40 PM

Lol... i am very surprised about that spring!! hehe ummmm i would probably buy the spring instead of a new tank cos i got a cool ampol (that's a petrol company in australia for all you americans...) sticker that i stuck on teh tank and i like it there! I wonder if the LHS has one of the springs in stock...

Ummm and hte guy in sydney is not luke... i suppose you are talking about luke ak from the nitroreview forums? well the guy i am meeting up wiv is theo assa... but i have tried to get in contact with luke, he just hasn't emailed back yet...

anywayz i gotta go ot an exam now! wish me luck :(

Unobjectionable

06-23-2002, 09:48 PM

good luck, don't forget your lucky shirt

french-fry

06-23-2002, 10:25 PM

Yeah super-coolness... I fixed my car!

It turns out that it was a combination of problems and because I tried to fix them separately there would always be something wrong so I would change the thing I fixed back thinking that it had had no affect, when in fact it had (are you following me? I'm not).

Anyway, there were three main problems:
1. it was running super rich:
Because dirt was stuck under the head of the needle screw, when I tiightened it down to zero it was actually still at about 1 full turn, so when I richened it three turns it was at more like four full turns.

2. the idle screw was set just a hair too low, that explains the stalling

3. finally, what took the longest to figure out, my throttle linkage was doing weird things. Basically it was set up in such a way that the screw holding it to the servo arm was too tight and clamped the little sliding part to the linkage. Thus when in neutral it wasn't actually at idle and when the brakes were applied, it would drop to the too low idle.

Anyway, the point is that it is fixed. Also, I got my new shocks and they work (and look) great.

Thanks for all of your help, now I'm just waiting for my two speed.

-Alex

P.S. I should have a cool video of my landmax up on my web page sometime tonight.

Unobjectionable

06-23-2002, 10:53 PM

cool, glad you got it worked out...which shocks did you get? i really like the blue and silver ones, they are such a breeze to build too

looking forward to seeing the video, you been holding out on us

KIRK S. DECKER

06-24-2002, 12:19 AM

After I did some research a few months ago I found that you can put universals to replace the stock dog bones but this is for the TWO SPEED TRANNY SET UP ONLY (the reg tranny set up wont work with the info I give secondary to the two speed using different dog bones than the original tranny.... well really just one). The next few paragraphs are kind of hard to follow so I will try not to confuse the best I can.

With the two speed tranny you are to take the ORIGINAL FRONT dog bone (approx 86mm + an orange o ring to keep the fit from being sloppy in the drive cup) and use it in the REAR with the two speed. A NEW FRONT dog bone is INCLUDED with the two speed tranny (it is approx. 82mm). OK, accordig to Tower the original dogbones with th mp5 measure 82mm, and 90mm (part number ifw033) which correspond well with the landmax's (with 2 speed) bones of 82mm and 86-87mm (and dont forget o ring to prevet excess slop). Well the replcement mp5 universal for the front dogbone (82MM)/drive cup is part number ifw012 and the replacement rear universal for the rear dogbone (90mm WITHOUT AN O RING)/drive cup is part ifw013.
With my above logic these universals from the mp5 (and 6?) should fit the landmax WITH TWO SPEED TRANNY without any mods. I have not actually tried the fit yet because I have not reached that stage in my project but Im pretty sure it will work. Before any one goes out and buys these universals I would appreciate someone cross checking my logic and research to save anyone (besides myself) buying universals that they cannot use.
I hope the above offered some help.

Unobjectionable

06-24-2002, 02:03 AM

i got ya...once again we are thinking the same way, i believe they will work too...the whole reason for the new dogbone is the drive cups on the GT-30 tranny anyway...they are longer but seem to be more shallow inside...i once test-fit the regular front dogbone with the GT-30 in place just to see, it was pretty tight with very little play (but there was a little)...i think what's really happening is that the new drive cups push the dogbones out towards the bulkheads more, thus effectively increasing the angle they have to function at and necessitating the shorter bone setup front and rear to keep the same angle and, i guess, prevent bizarre wear patterns on the pin part of the bones and in the cups...

but i don't THINK this will be a problem with the center unis, it becomes more just an issue of "will the bone end fit in the cup", there is a little room to play there too, with the cups on the GT-30 mounted IN as far as they can be, and the uni's cups at the bulkheads mounted as far in as they can be (and still have good front to rear mesh on the gears)...and you could always drill a little out of the GT-30 cup(s) if it seemed a bit too tight....(or trim the shaft part of the drive gear or the GT-30 shaft)

to further complicate the issue, the same center unis were used for both MP-5 and 6 by kyosho, but MIP lists two different versions for their cvd variety...i think the only difference there is that their MP-6 version is a little longer as the MP-6 had a slightly longer wheelbase...

anyhoo, i will do some more checking around and measuring, but the true test will be you mounting the bulkheads, center diff w/ GT-30 and the small drive gears to your stock chassis and seeing if they actually fit...eheh *HINT HINT*

as an uninteresting side note, i have been adding some stuff to the parts list tonight, and doing some cross referencing between the whole kyosho 8th scale family...mostly suspension stuff, it's interesting to see how kyosho has mixed and matched the same parts throughout the years...fer instance, the LM1 uses Burns front carriers and steering knuckles but COULD use inferno ST/Nitro Crusher/original SuperEight knuckles (and maybe be either a little wider or narrower i presume, have to check on that one - BS-76) as they all use the same (Burns BS-8) front carriers EXCEPT the inferno/supereight, which has it's own carriers (BS-57) due to how the carrier mounts to the inferno a-arms (hole is further out instead of towards the inside like LM1/Burns/Crusher)...also, the front carriers/knuckles from any of the MP buggies will fit on an inferno or original supereight, i would guess they have a little less caster due to the kickup the later buggies have

the Esprit/LM1 did get it's own rear carriers but could also fit Burns/Inferno rear carriers (same part for both, BS-9), tight squeeze inside the little LM rims, but they do fit, have to check on the width/geometry of that combo also...

and even less interesting, i have verified that you can fit burns/nitro crusher a-arms to the LM1/inferno bulkheads, may have to build that car-crushing peugeot after all...

i will get some pics of all this crap later (my parts stash is unreal, ask Pr0k) so nobody will ever have to read atrocities like the above paragraphs in the future...

Redfox

06-24-2002, 06:35 AM

***?!?!?! ummmmmm ok i am feeling mixed emotions here... i just got my stuff back from the states and i am very happy!! I just tried to put my two speed in except i had trouble pulling the existing pilot shaft of the engine to replace it with the new one and the new flywheel... i saw that pic of bukkakes and so i will attempt to do that tomorrow... although i don't have that kinda adjustable wrench...

but the main source of my surprise is the carby... it doesn't look like the one in the pic. Yeah, it's plastic and uses most of the same components, but you wouldn't believe this... it's set up in the fashion of the old carby. ie. the high end needle fuel nipple if facing the way that it was for the old carby and not the new one. Also, the actual slide valve itself is not the new one, but the exact same as my old one. Ie. the ball end is a brass fixture held in my a small allen screw. It isn't the same as the one in the pic if you know what i mean?! This is very odd... although i am thanking my lucky stars because it is PERFECT to drop straight onto the engine without me having to pull it apart and re-adjust the parts! WOO HOOO!! i am just very curious as to why i got this one!

So what i'm gonna do it thread lock that litte screw holding in the ball end and then just drop it on the engine. I'll figure out the two-speed tomorrow, but some handy tips on how to get the f'ing thing off the engine would help! Btw i can't see where those 6x12 bushings are in the two-speed and i assume they are inside somewhere. I'm not gonna open it up... i'll just install it and i may put in some bearings some other time...

i think i should be in a position to run it tomorrow arvo! it's gonna be sooooo good!! *touch wood*

:D :D :D :D

Redfox

06-24-2002, 07:05 AM

This thing is impossible to get off!!!! I suppose that if it's this tight, when i install the new pilot shaft, i should threadlock it and do it up real tight, right?

Oh, i think i understand how the two speed works now... basically that clutch thing in the 2nd gear opens up that little cltuch shoe and then once it's extended enough it hits that little metal bar which engages 2nd gear... ah ha..... that is right isn't it?? Meahwhile first gear just spins loosely whilst the second gear is in operation...

and since the first gear is on a one way bearing, i suppose that means i can't roll my car back and forth anymore right? Cos it would try and turn the engine over in the other direction... i think...

i was wondering if these is a great difference in handling ability now that there is gonna be no centre diff... and also i suppose independent tuning of the front and rear brakes is outta the question now that it's a solid drive...

that longish aluminium collar that goes between the front bearing and the 1st gear... does that get worn quite easily or will it last for a long time??

Also, what is a pretty good estimate of how many screws out i should adjust the grub screw on the transmission clutch to obtain a shift (with the stock gs21r) that is just a bit under max revs? or whatever you guys think is the place for the best performance... i know i should start from no shift, then work my way up to work it out for myself, but i'm wondering what your suggestions are...

Also, what is a good estimated top speed for the LM now with all the stock 2spd gearing and the stock gs21r??

:)

btw bukkake, you know how you were speaking about replacing the bushings in the 2speed... do they have bushings on which the 2nd gear runs? Cos i was just freely spinning the the 2nd gear and it seems to run a bit rougher and louder than the first gear... am i right in saying that this is running on bushings?? And if so, how hard is it to get in there and change them? (I just noticed that the 2-speed tranny instruction sheet that you scanned is different to my instruction sheet... my one shows the 6x12 as a bushing whereas your one shows it as a bearing... and also the whole format of the page is different... is yours a newer transmission or something?)

I was also expecting a silver clutchbell like it shows in the 2-speed picture, but instead i got a clutchbell that is the same dark gunmetal grey colour as the pinions...

http://www.gpmd.com/images/kyoc6172.JPG

One more thing... are there any metal to metal connections in the 2speed that i should take apart and threadlock before i install it?

Redfox

06-24-2002, 08:08 AM

I forgot something... you know those red o-rings that are in between the dogbones and the drivecups... i am not sure if they are supposed to be in every dogbone/drivecup connection, but in mine they sure aren't... i think i may have lost some, so are they easy to find and replace? Like can i just go to the LHS and ask for these o-rings or does kyosho have a special part number for them and then try and charge me a bucketload for them???

I've also noticed that the slide barrel length of the new carby is quite a bit shorter than the old one, and the high end needle sits a bit lower as well. Infact the highend needle assembly is almost touching the rear brake caliper... and now the fuel line has to run down below the top of the centre diff mount top plate... i don't think it did that before.

Oh and also... what is the new flywheel for in the 2-speed kit. Is it a different weight or something? Because to me, it seems almost identical to the original one. Except the chamfer taken off the edge is slightly smaller. I also noticed that the two metal pins sticking out of the flywheel, even though they are the same length out the fron side, one of them is indented in the back and one of them is stick out about half a millimetre... is this normal? I was just thinking that it might dig into that black plastic spacer... maybe i should just use the original flywheel...

Sorry for flooding you guys with all these questions tonite, but i'm anxious to get it running properly.......... for once!

SixVi6

06-24-2002, 02:38 PM

woohoo.. I broke in the hyper on my t-maxx and its nuts!! by far the most powerfull pullstart .21 out there and the price is excelent. I've already boxed it back up to wait for the LM2's motor mounts to get in. darn it.. I waent to three LHS's and only found the motor spacer plate things. one place had the option motor mounts but I think $52 is way too much to spend on a bit of recycled aluminum that holds an engine into an RC car. So I wait bu tin the meantime I've been running the piss out of the LM2.. I took it to the track on sunday and ran it during practice. lol.. the LM2 was a monster compared to every other RC there. A friend of mine was racing his RS4 there he did piss poor but it was fun. I want my stinkin motor mounts already! lol.. Oh well back to work..

Got a question.. how long does it take you to run a gallon through your LMs? lately I've been running mine just about every day and realized that I've used two gallons in three weeks for both my RC's.. :eek: at this rate I'll have to put the hyper into my LM2 in just a few weeks.

Jimmy33

06-24-2002, 03:41 PM

Hi - had my Landmax since just after Christmas but it has been of the road for 2 yes 2 months while I waited for a clutch. I have fitted the 2 speed tranny, bt it now seems that I am only getting front wheel drive.

Also the screw holes on my engine have schreded leaving me with no grip - any idea what to do as I cannot get the engine to say on shame as I got it running great last weekend.
:eek:

What other engines can I fit to the Landmax 2, I can get hold of any OS and SC engines, and what parts would I need to get the engine on - I am looking for PURE SPEED AND POWER. :confused: :cool: :D

Finnally apart from the bodies which Kyosho make what other bodiers will fit on the chassis - I am looking for a Ford Focus WRC. :confused:

man I love this car because I can out run my friends car on 3/4 throttle!:cool: :D

ThanksJames

french-fry

06-24-2002, 06:08 PM

Okay I finally got the videos up on my website, they are kinda big (sorry 56kers). Oh yah, and that "tumble" is when my air filter came off.

First Video (1.25Mb) (http://home.attbi.com/~veloroute/Alex_Car_Web.WMV)

Second Video (http://home.attbi.com/~veloroute/Mvi_0092.avi)

Also, after that second video, I went out and was running the LM in dirt again and I think I got more dirt in the engine. Fortunately I know what to do, so this time it won't be a big deal.

Finally, I go through gas like mad too. I have only had my car for two weeks and I've already put about a gallon and quarter through it. But it is definately worth it!

Hope you guys enjoy the videos.

-Alex

Unobjectionable

06-24-2002, 06:44 PM

*takes a deep breath*

This thing is impossible to get off!!!! I suppose that if it's this tight, when i install the new pilot shaft, i should threadlock it and do it up real tight, right?

YEP, don't get any of that stuff in the engine or bearings though

Oh, i think i understand how the two speed works now... basically that clutch thing in the 2nd gear opens up that little cltuch shoe and then once it's extended enough it hits that little metal bar which engages 2nd gear... ah ha..... that is right isn't it?? Meahwhile first gear just spins loosely whilst the second gear is in operation...

YEP

and since the first gear is on a one way bearing, i suppose that means i can't roll my car back and forth anymore right? Cos it would try and turn the engine over in the other direction... i think...

NOPE...it will still roll backwards (with the engine off)...the deal with the one-way is, when the gear it's mounted to is rotated the direction the engine will turn it, it locks to the shaft, when it's rotated "backwards" it freewheels, note that rotating it backwards is physically the same thing as what happens when 2nd gear takes over and spins the center shaft faster than 1st gear is trying to turn it (or what happens when you roll the car backwards)
...sounds confusing but makes sense when you think about it

i was wondering if these is a great difference in handling ability now that there is gonna be no centre diff... and also i suppose independent tuning of the front and rear brakes is outta the question now that it's a solid drive...

nothing too drastic but yeah, you do lose the ability to tune front/rear brakes, a small price to pay i think

that longish aluminium collar that goes between the front bearing and the 1st gear... does that get worn quite easily or will it last for a long time??

it will never wear out, its just a spacer (and looks very pretty polished haha)

Also, what is a pretty good estimate of how many screws out i should adjust the grub screw on the transmission clutch to obtain a shift (with the stock gs21r) that is just a bit under max revs? or whatever you guys think is the place for the best performance... i know i should start from no shift, then work my way up to work it out for myself, but i'm wondering what your suggestions are...

do NOT screw that setscrew all the way in...you risk crushing the little spring in there that makes the magic happen, this would be a bad thing since you can't buy em...heed kyosho's warning "for fear of damages beyond repair"

i have had the best results setting it initially by hand, if you can pull the little "finger" out with your fingernail (with a little effort), it's about right...alternatively, you can mount the tranny and spin 2nd gear as fast as you can by hand, loosen the setscrew until you can hear the finger try to engage ("tickticktickticktick") when you do so and that will be a very early shift (right off idle or just below) and about 2 full turns more will get you roughly into the neighborhood (or at least shifting in the rpm range) and will allow you to fine tune...

but REMEMBER, tis a far far better thing to start too loose than too tight, this ranks right up there with starting your engine tuning too rich rather than too lean

Also, what is a good estimated top speed for the LM now with all the stock 2spd gearing and the stock gs21r??

it works out to about 35mph/56kmh at 30K rpm using the calculator (16/50 gears, 3.5" rally tires), doesn't sound like much but it gets there FAST, i think you will be happy with the performance (for now, muahaha)

the 6x12mm bushings are in the hub that 2nd gear mounts on, to get to them you would have to remove the rear drive cup and the actual 2nd gear clutch assembly (it has two holes in it, the smaller one at an angle is your adjustment hole, the bigger one that is not at an angle is how the thing is held to the shaft, and the bushings are right behind that whole assembly...this is not an immediate "must do" upgrade, but it's a good idea

i think the different sheets and clutchbells are just "running changes", the parts are all identical (i have one of each)

the little o-rings are 4mm, kyosho part BS-74, you can probably find them cheaper at the hardware store (they don't have to be exact size)

the flywheel included is just for the GS 21, you might be able to use your stock flywheel, i've never tried it and assumed they included the new one for a reason....and you can knock that one pin back out a little with a hammer, nail and a little care

there, i think we covered everything...*phew*...oh yeah, good news on the carb, i guess they send out all the replacement units "old style"

john - cool, glad to hear you like the hyper, i been meaning to pick one up for a while now eheh...as far as the fuel, ain't been using much (read ANY) lately, but when i get on a roll i can burn some up too...now, you KNOW you want to put a cvec on there...i am still amazed by how well those things work, i get an extra few minutes of runtime regardless of which engine or cvec setting i'm using..

side note: we put Pr0k's new ebay cvec on his MP-6 w/ RG this weekend, you shoulda seen that thing spittin up fuel afterwards...had to lean it out about a turn and a half to get it to idle without sprayin everything on the porch with raw fuel

jimmy - hey there, nice to see another LM2 owner about...though vi6 will probably be more helpful than me as far as part numbers etc. since i don't have an LM2 (yet)...

i think your FWD thing is probably just a result of having a loose drive cup...check the one at the back of the tranny and at the rear bulkhead, i'm willing to bet $1 that one of em has a loose or missing setscrew and is causing that...

as far as repairing your GS 21, i guess you could either drill and tap the holes a bit larger (to 4mm), or drill the little "pads" on the engine itself and mount it like a real engine...that would require the adjustable motor mounts though, but you will need those anyway if you get a new engine...

in your case, with LM2 and GTW-20 two speed, probably be a lot easier to go with a threaded crank engine (ie: NOT a hyper 21) as i don't know of anyone who has fitted the GTW-20 with an sg shaft engine...kyosho says it can't be done, but we know better...i imagine the problem would be that the sg crank would come up short of the longer 2 speed clutch bell, and there are ways around that...

BUT like i said, a threaded crank engine would be a lot simpler to install and you have plenty of choices...my favorite is the ofna/picco sport, some other alternatives would be the ofna/force P4, duratrax/force torq 21, or most any OS engine (they are usually available in both sg and threaded style)...and i'm sure many of the novarossi engines (in their various nova/rex/top etc guises) are also available threaded...never heard of SC though

parma makes some 8th scale bodies, one of them (chevy lumina) would probably fit the LMs pretty well, but i don't know if you would want to...problem here is that the LMs have an extra 25mm or so of wheelbase over the "proper" 8th scale cars like serpent, bmt etc. it really is a "super eight" in terms of scale...which makes the original Super Eight cars like the 959 a "super six" or something...but i digress...eheh

i have a section for all the kyosho bodies on the LM1 parts list (link below)...never seen a focus that big, but you could have an escort...(or fake it with the peugeot body and a superten focus sticker sheet, if anybody makes one eheh)...the duratrax "nitro demon" stadium truck body would fit (and it's cheap, $20!) if anybody wants to make a "Landmax 2 ST"...

EDIT: i completely forgot about the TTR rally game bodies, they would probably fit (i can't find the chassis/wheel dimensions etc anywhere, we can ask zoot i guess) but don't look as nice as the kyosho bodies, heres a pic:

http://www.quicktechhobby.com/prices/cars/TTR/EB-4_RALLY_BODIES.jpg

heres the list: http://***********/gp20/GP-20-parts.txt

i'm still trying to find out how many people would be willing to email kyosho with me and ask for some new bodies...*HINT HINT (http://www.nitroreview.com/newforum/forum2.cfm?TopicID=1284&clubid=42)*

anyway, glad you're enjoying your car and the thread, also glad i have you guys to talk to (at) and bounce ideas off...gonna go before i start crying *sniff sniff*

Unobjectionable

06-24-2002, 06:45 PM

VIDEOS

now thats RICH, baybee!

that .wmv one is funny, a certain 8 year old who just watched it with me said "that car is SMOKIN"...ehehe

the GT2 comment is funny too, there is a permanent connection in my brain between the landmax and the whole GT series...this is probably why my project car has a skyline body (my favorite car in GT since GT1)...i was also playing some GT3 last night, driving my l33t 1000+ hp R34 skyline like i drive my LM (point and BLIP) and remarking on the similarities in handling and exhaust tone (not to mention other similarities, ie: most all LM bodies are in GT3 and the cars all cost out the ass to hop up eheh)

p.s. they aren't too big...hell i wouldn't mind a 10MB version even if i was still on 28.8, you did good though, 3+ minutes in little over a meg is hard to beat, pretty blocky at 200% though

Pr0k

06-24-2002, 07:47 PM

Hey French Fry, your reaction to the flip was just like mine....WOW!! that was really neat. that baseball diamond looks like it could use a little water, talk about dusty ehehe. Enjoy!

french-fry

06-24-2002, 08:05 PM

:D

Okay I've got a bunch of good news:

First, turns out I didn't get dirt in the engine, my air filter is just clogged.

Second I have a better quality version of First Video :
High Quality First Video (http://home.attbi.com/~french-fry/Alex_Car.WMV)

Third, I have two more videos:
Third Video (http://home.attbi.com/~veloroute/Mvi_0096.avi)
and
Fourth Video (http://home.attbi.com/~veloroute/Mvi_0098.avi)

Oh yah, and in the second two videos, the reason it is running so rich is because that is following my little rebuild.

Anyways...good news is great!

-Alex

P.S. I think the lense flare in the first video makes it look really cool.

P.P.S. That goofy looking kid putting the body clips on in first video is me.

Unobjectionable

06-24-2002, 08:23 PM

ah well done, that first one rocks, i love the four wheel drifting around the baseball diamond...and the swordfighting is pretty good too...ahahaha

*edit: you had pr0k and me both rollin with that one frame, but don't take that the wrong way

*edit2: now i have to find a cheap vidcap card and pirat er ah buy some editing software

french-fry

06-24-2002, 08:57 PM

Umm yah, about that...

Apparently that's my friend's re-enactment of the fight scene in Romeo and Juliet. Fortunately I was not a part of that...errr...dramatic event.

In other words, you can make fun of it all you want.

Unobjectionable

06-24-2002, 09:04 PM

ahahaha...i didn't even really catch it the first time, repeated viewings/pausings a couple times now, thats pretty surreal

Pr0k

06-24-2002, 09:07 PM

haha Yeah well I wasn't gonna say nothing, but Bukkake not shy like me! He says we have to hit the baseball diamond this week. Sounds good to me no curbs!!

Unobjectionable

06-24-2002, 10:47 PM

watch out old man, i have been practicing my pitt maneuver in the thyberworld for WEEKS, i will spin you out into 2nd base, hit you again as your car goes flying through the air, and laugh as you CRASH AND BURN in a blaze of nitromethane glory (due to your $5 ofna fuel tank hahaha)

just kidding, then i would have to fix your car (again)

*edited because you can never be TOO MUCH of a smartass

Redfox

06-24-2002, 11:57 PM

Bukkake... you are my hero!! thanks soo much for all your tips so far, they have been very helpful!!

When i grow up i wanna be like you! ;)

That was a huge post mate... i am about to install all the gear now... should be fun!

Unobjectionable

06-25-2002, 12:05 AM

ehehe no prob, have fun with it, and watch out for curbs and dingos

Pr0k

06-25-2002, 12:15 AM

yeah Bukkake has always been willing to share his Knowledge with any one that asked. I met him in a computer tech forum years ago. Helped and coached me through my certifications. Then moved to florida and hooked me on waffle fries and rc!!

Unobjectionable

06-25-2002, 12:56 AM

and don't forget the HOP UP FEVA

check dis out...top secret japanese italian LM2 upgrades i found snooping around on kyosho.it

http://***********/gp20/misc/GTW20-2.jpg
http://***********/gp20/misc/GTW22.jpg
http://***********/gp20/misc/GTW23.jpg
http://***********/gp20/misc/GTW24.jpg
http://***********/gp20/misc/GTW25.jpg

judging by the pics, you could slap on regular 7.5 shock towers and run long shocks all the way around, for great rally action...and tower has that stuff listed (some of it not yet in stock)

titanium shock shafts!

http://***********/gp20/misc/W6001.jpg

big beefy hubs!

http://***********/gp20/misc/MTW1.jpg

eheh this is all a bit much, i better lay low for a while

french-fry

06-25-2002, 02:42 AM

Okay, I'm confused.

I was looking at the GTW020 two speed transmission for the LM2 on tower's website and it says at the very bottom: This set cannot be used for SG shaft engines.

However, the LM2 instruction manual says to use only SG shaft engines.

What's the deal? Did I order a transmission that I can't use with the stock GS21R?

-Alex

Redfox

06-25-2002, 03:03 AM

I HATE THIS ENGINE!! i swear it's jinxed... i can tune my friends .21 engine so well, but everytime i try to get the gs21r right it's fuxored!!!! I really wanna throw the whole friggin car in the lake!! if only there was a lake nearby........

i am too cheap to buy a new engine and even though it is on my list of to-do's i ain't got enough dosh to get one right now!! argh!! i haven't even used the 2 speed yet cos i can't get the friggin engine right!!!! how annoying is this!!!!

It runs fine then stalls after a few mins like it used to... the thing is... it might be a overheating prob, but i am running it fairly rich... see if i lean it out to get some good quality running so that the exhaust is just barely spitting, then it stalls... but if i run it richer, then the thing stalls cos it's too rich, or just doesn't get any speed out of it cos it's sluggishly slow!! it doesn't seem to have an in between zone where i want to be!!

I think i just poured a mL of castor out of the exhaust... i am running it hell rich and it's still over heating... this is b.s.

Redfox

06-25-2002, 04:22 AM

Ok finally i've come in from the street... it got dark at about 5:00pm and now it's 6.... i am fuming!! i hate this engine soooo much...

the landmax is a great car, but why couldn't kyosho make a reliable easy to tune engine?!

Had to go and spend AU$18.35 for a stupid fuel tank spring today... grrrrrrr...

Whereabouts do you guys set your low end needle?? they suggest to have that line that's grooved into the low end screw in line with the barrel... i find this a bit too rich and the engine will bog and stall off the start... and how many turns out do you run the high end? i am trying to stay around 3.... i didn't manage to get more than 2 twenty meter runs out of this damn contraption before it stalled... i gunned it up the street and it took off at a good pace... not fast, and not slow... it had a nice trail of smoke pouring out, then when i came off the throttle and turned the car around it died... what the hell is wrong?! this reminds me of the probs i had 2 months ago... but this time i know i'm not running lean...

grrrrrrrrrrrrr...

Redfox

06-25-2002, 05:34 AM

i was just speaking to this theo guy from sydney and he reckons his gs21r had the same probs... he sez that the piston and sleev were worn and he had to replace them... i am annoyed because i don't wanna replace them, but i do... cos i dont' wanna spend money on a dodgy dud engine, but then again i don't wanna spend heaps to get a new engine... =[
and plus the piston and sleeve will still cost about au$90.... oh well... gee this hobby is expensive.. and i haven't even got some decent running yet...
=[

Unobjectionable

06-25-2002, 05:42 AM

chris - tune the thing so it runs good and can pull full rpm (more like 2.5 turns out more likely), then set the low end so it has a little punch off the line, then adjust the idle screw so it will idle and not stall (if you have to)...if it still has even a little pop it will run...i am thinking you might have it too rich on top and too lean on the bottom to compensate (and get it to idle)

alex - where does the manual say that? (page)...the thing is pictured with it's own pilotshaft which will go right on the GS 21 or any threaded crank engine

Redfox

06-25-2002, 06:17 AM

ok.. thanks bukkake... i'll give that a shot tomorrow. But even if it is overly rich right now, it's till overheating quite hot... and that can't be too good for it... anywayz i'll play it by ear. I thought i was getting good at tuning, but this is hard stuff!!!

One good outcome for today... the steering is straight! For the short distances that it actually ran, it is running straight. Must've been fixed when i straightened out those bent sus bolts :D

french-fry

06-25-2002, 01:57 PM

Yah its weird, on page 29 of the LM2 manual it says "Only using a type of .21 class engine, which is made crank shaft and pilot shaft as one part (SG shaft only)."

Redfox- be sure to double-check your linkages. I know it seems obvious but that ended up being part of my problem.

Redfox

06-25-2002, 08:23 PM

Yeah thanks french-fry... when i installed the new carb i played around with the linkages a bit to make sure it was all in good order...

btw, nice vid! =]

Redfox

06-25-2002, 09:17 PM

FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFS!!!!!!!

You're not gonna believe this, but my 2 speed pilot shaft broke... The shaft just snapped off at the top of the hex part.... omg this is sooo annoying... how can this part just break!?

I also noticed that the new clutchbell is kinda griding away the the edge of the clutch shoes... the edge just above the spring...

Well at least i got the engine running... it still runs hot but it doesn't seem to stall cos i am running it a bit leaner like bukkake suggested... still it takes ages for re-starts cos i gotta wait for it to cool down... i still can't justify spending that much money for a new piston and sleeve...

grrrrrr nothing is going right... i wanna chuck it in the scrap heap...

:mad:

Redfox

06-25-2002, 09:24 PM

FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFS!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!

I just had a look at the tranny itself and the gears all all F**KED UP!!! grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr they are all fuzzy and ripped up!! FFS!!!! argh!!! i hate this piece of *****!!!!!

There are all these black plastic shavings inside the chassis... they used to be the part of the gears on my 2speed! i think it will still work, but it won't mesh as well... =[

why does this always happen to me?! It's not like i'm careless or it's my fault... i can't help it if a pilot shaft breaks... FFS....

:(

Unobjectionable

06-25-2002, 09:25 PM

ok i checked out page 29 on john's site, they are just showing you what is required to install an sg engine there, kinda like a map legend but in engrish...note how the upgrade diff gears are on the same page, subtle aint they?

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lm2inst_29.jpg

chris - hopefully you had a little better luck today...i'm tellin ya though, you could have 10 turns open on the high end and it will still run hot as hell if the bottom is too lean (as it would have to be to compensate)...i think i gave you this link before, but it won't hurt to look it over again if you get bored (or frustrated)

http://www.parisracing.com/engine_tuning_with_coversheet.htm

tons of good info, you may recognize a few of the symptoms

Unobjectionable

06-25-2002, 09:26 PM

good lord you are cursed

i think i would email tower about that one, make you feel better anyway

i swear i have had no such problems, i'm even still on my original set of spur gears...can't hazard a guess as to how the pilot shaft broke, you're not some 7' 400lb monster are you?

Redfox

06-25-2002, 09:35 PM

AHHH F#CK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! now that it's snapped clean off at the base i can't get the friggin broken shaft out of the clutchbell... cos it's loctited in with that friggin screw!! ARGH!!! i might need a new clutchbell... FFFFFFFS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I can't drill it out cos it's on bearings.... argh.....

F$CK it!!! i just wanna throw the 2 speed away now... and what pisses me off even more is that i didn't even get to hear it shift... NOT ONCE!!!!!!! cos i was just about to start adjusting it!! F#CK!!!! i am soooo annoyed... kyosho just plain sucks... :mad:

This is probably why it was reduced to $69... sly f%ckin bastards...

Redfox

06-25-2002, 09:59 PM

i am calling tower right now to abuse them....

Redfox

06-26-2002, 12:49 AM

Geee... tower was actually quite helpful...

they offered for me to send them the part to their repair center and they would fix it all under warranty... (don't ask me which warranty, cos i never got a tower one.. i suppose kyosho parts have a warranty or something...), and she said alternatively i can find a kyosho repair centre in australia and they will fix it under a kyosho warranty... i just gotta tell them i bought it from tower and show them the tax invoice. Tower is also sending me another invoice cos my one is in new york, but dad ain't there right now.

So i rang up dawntrading here (australian kyosho suppliers) and they said they are closed til next week for stock take... how ridiculous... one thing i love about the states is that mostly all of the companies over there have got it RIGHT! You know soo much about customer service and satisfaction... over here it's a shambles... =[ so i will call up next week and get them to fix it under warranty.. hopefully it doesn't take too long... i will just have to run on the stock centre diff for the time being...

I made a base plate out of aluminium for the bottom of the chassis so dirt doesn't get into the engine and transmission areas... it looks really good on the car... i will try to get a digital camera to take a pic of it when i get the chance...

Anywayz.... i am still a bit peeved off... oh well :(

Redfox

06-26-2002, 02:23 AM

I just can't get the engine to run now!!!! WHAT THE HELL HAVE I DONE?! it will run fine (i've even idled it up a bit) but at like 2.5turns out it's still spitting oil out the exhaust... and so i set the low end to a good setting.. then when i accelerate it gets to a certain point and bogs then dies... so i tried leaning out the high end and it still did it...
i am sooo pissed off today... nothing but troubles... i just want a new engine now... this is ****.. i can't believe kyosho makes such crap....

Redfox

06-26-2002, 03:15 AM

Look i just tired to run it again and it won't friggin run... it starts up then runs and idles.. you can putt around on very slight throttle but as soon as you give it more than about 5% throttle it bogs and dies... this is sooo frustrating... i have the low end set roughly where that groove lines up with the slide end... and i have the high end at 2 7/8 turns out... and it still bogs and dies... like with these settings before, it at least run, but not be super quick or anything... this is just stupid... i don't know what is wrong... could it possibly be the clutch?? cos i noticed that it was very worn on the two opposite edges on the face of the shoe just over the spring.. infact it kinda has been worn so there is a bit of clutch shoe plastic a bit over the spring if you know what i mean... maybe it is sorta gripping for the below 5% throttle and then after that it is suddenly gripping and hence stalling the engine like you would in a real car? could that be the case??

Is it possible i have dud fuel?? cos it has been sitting there in my box for a while... but it starts fine and idles fine...

actually it was doing something very strange earlier on... the engine was pulsating... like it was blipping itself, except i could clearly see the linkage and the slide on the carby and they weren't moving at all... so what would cause it to blip like that??
Fuel line maybe?? my fuel line is alright tho... i have looked over it... infact last night i took off the primer bulb cos it was making bubbles in the fuel line... so i just use the normal method of finger over the exhaust priming technique and it works just fine...

I also went through the linkages and re-adjusted the throttle linkage to work for this carby cos it's slightly lower than the original... i spent ages on it and got it very precise...

Also, after only a few minutes of on and off running trying to get it going just then, the heatsink temp went through the roof... it was lubricating fine cos there were still little droplets of castor flying out... it got to the stage where my spit test sizzled really quick...

Everything was going ok just before i busted the 2speed... then the pilot shaft broke and ripped apart the gears and so i've put all the stock stuff back in and now it doesn't go!!! *** am i doing wrong?! is it me or just a dud car?! like i'm not dumb and i know how to set the needle settings and all... I just don't get why it won't work...

french-fry

06-26-2002, 04:02 AM

If it idles okay, I would bet that your problems lie in the carberator and not the engine. Try undoing your fuel lines and blowing through them. When I got dirt in my engine I had, I think, similar problems as you are now. Also blow through the fuel inlet on the carb to get any junk out. And also see if you can blow bubbles into your gas tank to get any gunk out of the fuel pipe within the tank. My last suggestion would be to fiddle with the low end needle. In my experience, it would stick because it was set too lean, then pop-out as the engine tried to draw in fuel. This happened because the lean setting gave the engine a bit more kick on idle thus causing it to draw too much fuel. When the needle un-sticks, it returns to normal but the cycle repeats itself. Of course I'm not talking about big distances when I say that the needle pops out. We're talking a quarter of a milimeter tops. I think when I solved my problems, I only adjusted the needle about 10 degrees, if that.

As for the high end, I'm not too sure. As I mentioned before, I had some dirt under my high end needle so when I went to zero turns and back out 2.5 it was really at 3.5. But check the fuel lines first, they could be causing all of your problems (except the transmission of course...the fuel and the drive line aren't really linked directly anywhere ;) (just kidding...got to lighten your mood a little).
Anyway, good luck.
-Alex

Unobjectionable

06-26-2002, 04:17 AM

trying a fresh plug and fuel never hurt....i still think it's a tuning issue...watching french-fry's video must have been a bad influence on you, i think you're scared to lean it out now...his car, in that first video, is spitting smoking farty super break-in rich and pulling maybe half of full rpm at best...if your car is sounding anything like that at speed, you need to lean the top end and disregard the bottom end until the thing can wind out some (WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA not BURRRRRRRRRRRR) with some visible smoke, THEN worry about the low-end...only adjusting of the low end you should be doing during all this is just to keep it from overheating if the idle starts going up from you leaning out the top end...this will probably happen, so just richen the low end a bit, if you find it tries to idle too low and stalls from being too rich, turn the throttle trim up on the radio to keep it idling until you get the top end dialed...THEN worry about tuning the bottom end for performance and setting the idle...

and relax dammit, it's supposed to be enjoyable

Unobjectionable

06-26-2002, 04:20 AM

eheh we all keep the same hours...ITS A DISEASE

Redfox

06-26-2002, 04:27 AM

I just noticed there is some grey oily stuff leaking out the pullstart or the backplate... hrmmmm

Redfox

06-26-2002, 04:30 AM

I know it's supposed to be enjoyable but i'm not enjoying myself darnit!

I can't even worry about the high end because the damn thing doesn't even go!! it bogs and dies... and it's not like i don't know how to tune tho... cos i know this is usually a symptom of being too rich... i kept leaning it out til it was like 1.5 turns out.. and it still bogged and died... all the way through it was like that... i tried different low end settings to get it off the line a tad quicker and it still bogged and died.. something is seriously wrong...

oh and btw, i checked the plug but it's still running nice n hot and red... it's def a tuning prob... i can hear it when it bogs... def tuning... maybe i got a bogus carby...

Redfox

06-26-2002, 06:43 AM

Was just speakin to theo... he sez that the grey oil stuff comin out the back of the engine could be the problem... i noticed that both times i pulled apart the car today... so i got a feeling that it's leaking out the backplate and that could be why it bogs and stalls no matter what carby settings i use. Cos i think i'm right in saying that if there is a small airleak out the back of the engine i won't have much compression in the crankcase.
He also said that the leak may explain the engine blipping itself even when the carby slide was perfectly still...
So tomorrow i'm gonna pull apart the whole engine, clean it out and then use a bit of copper sealant when i'm putting it back together to fix up any leaks... hopefully that will fix the problems...

KIRK S. DECKER

06-26-2002, 09:04 AM

REDFOX

Hey, awhile back when I first started posting on this site I desribed my horrors with the gs21...I almost got out of nitro permenantly because of the nightmare that thing gave me. I dumped so much money, sweat, and tears into that piece of sh**.
When I started to use other engines I could tune them perfectly and did not have any of the problems I had with the GS21 (almost exactly what your having....from the broken carb to not being able to restart the thing after it konked out after running only 2min!). It is probably the engine and not you (what is funny,some people say they never had a problem with the gs21 ....go figure... but looking around at other sites the gs21 is often not held in very high regard for its reliability).
The other problems your having are sometimes "just part of the hobby". Im sure everyone on this board has had things just brake on them or they pissed around with something until they finally broke it themselves. So just hang in there. The hobby is very rewarding and once everythig comes together for you you will be glad you did not give up on it.

Jimmy33

06-26-2002, 12:31 PM

Thanks for all the helkp - one more thing - how on earth do you tune the 2 speed tranny I want the second gear to engage very early?:confused: :cool:

Just got a replacement engine for the Landmax FREE of charge I love LHSs hope this is more relable!

Also the steering, when pressed down on full suspention travel the wheels turn out - any ideas on that one?

french-fry

06-26-2002, 05:46 PM

I think your tie rods may be too short, or maybe you just don't have enough play in the steering. It should turn out a little (like under 5 degrees) because that is just the way it is designed. If it is anything more than that trie adjusting the tie rods.

Unrelated to that, I was wondering what the best way to get the old tires off my rims is, is paint thinner strong enough? And what were you guys recommending for tires? Mine are sorta worn out:
http://home.attbi.com/~veloroute/worntires.jpg
(is that big enough for ya)
-Alex

SixVi6

06-26-2002, 06:55 PM

good god.. resize the pic down a bit. :eek:

The LM2 has a rather bad steering layout. The 7.5 buggies have a steering bar that the linkage attaches to but Kyosho did't use this setup for some reason and attached the linkages directly to the bellcrank arms. This leaves a whacky steering geometry and a problem with the Toe as the suspension travels. One way to eleviate this problem a bit is to move the linkage to the bottom of the knucle attachment but then it will bind at max travel and also limit the turning radius so that a no go. I think I may just pick up a buggy steering bar and attach the steering linkages to that instead of to the belcrank.

Removing tires is eazy.. get some Acetone from the hardware store and drop the tires and wheels into a container with a sealable lid and soak them overnight. the next morning the tires will pull off the rim. hehe.. I just used this method to remove the stock tires from the rims also. then I dyed the stock rims black and am going to get another set of slicks for them.

KIRK S. DECKER

06-26-2002, 08:09 PM

HERE IS a question for anyone out there... are kyosho clutch bells compatible with ofna and/or mugen flywheel/ clutch set ups...

the reason why... Im putting mugen aluminum clutch shoes on my project car and i just found out these shoes only fit mugen/ofna/gs 3 shoe flywheels ...so I cant use a kyosho flywheel... but can i still use a kyosho clutchbell with any of these flywheel clutch setups?
Any input from you guys would be greatly appreciated as always.

SixVi6

06-26-2002, 09:04 PM

I snapped a couple pics of the hyper .21 and the black dyed wheels.

The Black wheels.. (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_40.jpg)

The Hyper .21 all I need are the engine mounts! (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_39.jpg)

Oohh ohh!... I just checked Tower Hobbies and the motor mounts are back in stock and my backorder should ship tomorow! I can't wait by the weekend I'll have the Hyper in the LM2. :)

Pr0k

06-26-2002, 09:09 PM

SWEET!! I believe Bukkake has the same wheels dyed black also. Let us know how that hyper works out.

Unobjectionable

06-26-2002, 11:04 PM

you can also boil the wheels, the heat kills the glue...i have also heard of people doing it in the oven, but that would probably stink up your meals for the next couple weeks...they also make a "CA Debonder" i have seen listed at tower and elsewhere...been meaning to pick up a tube to try, be just the ticket on painted/chromed wheels if it actually works...

i have one of the ofna 3 shoe flywheel/clutch setups kirk, it looks identical to the pics of the kyosho unit, but i think it's closer to the IFW-50 one, measures about 10mm tall not counting pins...and yes, a kyosho clutch bell slips right over the shoes etc...i think most of the ofna buggy guys run kyosho bells anyway, as the ofna ones ain't too great...you can pick up one of the ofna kits off ebay pretty cheap ($30 or so complete and new, the ebay people even give you an extra bell), they have versions for threaded and sg crank but i think the only real difference is which clutch nut they give you as the sg setup i have here fits on a threaded crank with no probs...but of course, that extra 4mm has to come from somewhere, i think this is something kyosho does just to be annoying...check out new fancy flywheel setups (fioroni, nuova faor etc) and you see they generally make a kyosho version and an "everything else" version...

note that flipping the engine mount plates around to the "OS position" with an italian style engine will push it forward a little bit, and might make up the 4mm...

in semi-related news, i actually made a little progress on my custom deal today...knocked the pins back into my flywheel a little (BSW-22), ground down a fresh KC-45 clutch to fit under the shorty clutch bell, and did a little more "fine tuning" to the back of the GT-30 pilot shaft with a file...now everything fits under the bell nicely, still have to pick up some 5x8mm bearings for it (it takes FOUR of em, 3 in back, 1 up front) and trim about 4 threads off the crank with the dremel so the shorty pilot shaft can bottom out on the flywheel...this would all be a lot easier if they just made the right damn bell, i suppose i could have a machinist copy the superten bell in steel and add about 2mm to the back of it and thus corner the market on landmax custom 2 speed bells, but i am too poor...

chris - yeah, it could be an air leak at the base of the carb or the backplate (dirt right in there is a dead giveaway), i didn't wanna suggest it before and confuse the issue...but what the hell, seal it up...just use a toothpick or something similar to apply the silicone cause too much is worse than none at all...just lay a bead around the base of the carb where it goes into the engine, thats usually where leaks happen though the top end needle assembly is next on the list...

jimmy - i haven't played with the GTW-20, so i don't have any tips for adjusting it...should be similar to the GT-30 anyway, and it will come with instructions...just be wary of cranking that adjustment screw too much...

alex - lots of info on tires in this thread, i'm still trying to find some good on and offroad alternates...might try the proline road rage 2.2" buggy rears for onroad next, and was thinking of trying one of the 2.2" buggy rear offroad ones again sometime...

KIRK S. DECKER

06-26-2002, 11:20 PM

tHANKS BUKKAKE,

I think im going to use the mugen flywheel with their aluminum shoe and springs with the kyosho 2 speed bell (of course using the ofna pilot extension tube and shim set to get everything "right"). I will be able to mount the engine on the chasis whereever I need it.

btw, I have some of that super glue debonder and it is not that great.....basically acetone in a gel like suspension...its pretty harsh stuff and often mars and crazes the plastic being used on.

Unobjectionable

06-26-2002, 11:28 PM

sounds good...just out of curiosity, what is the problem with using the mugen shoes on the kyosho flywheel? pins the wrong size or in the wrong place or something? i swore i had heard mention of guys running the mugen shoes on their 7.5s, maybe they just bought the flywheel too...

and thanks for the tips on the debonder stuff, guess i won't bother with that then...working with hot stinky rubber is one of my favorite pastimes anyway..ehehe...

p.s. yeah, if you don't mind drilling holes, you can put anything in there...i saw one of the .30 wankels (os/graupner) on ebay cheap one time and was sorely tempted

Unobjectionable

06-27-2002, 01:23 AM

can any of you LM2 fellers verify if it comes with the black steel gears? it would seem that way from the manual, but it is also mentioned on another page as an optional part...what gives?

Redfox

06-27-2002, 05:00 AM

Heya guys... looks i've sorta fixed the landmax... i took apart the whole engine today and cleaned it all out and polished some parts... then i put it together and used some copper sealant... also i am not running a fuel filter for the time being till i work otu what is wrong with it... for some reason when i use it, i can't prime the car by the finger over the exhaust method... i tried blowing through the pressure hose and it wouldn't go... but as soon as i took off the fuel filter it came through real eazy and the car started...
It was still running rich at about 2.75 turns out so i ran it at about 2.5 or so... anywayz it ran pretty good, but after a few high speed runs it started to die... and did the bogging thing... it's a very dodgy engine... it's sooo hard to tune... it was still running sooo hot that none of my spit would stay on the head for a split second, yet it was just shy of being rich... very odd...
I must admit when i had it floored, this engine does have some guts... i can't even begin to imagine how fast it would go with the 2speed...
I think i will start saving for a new engine... cos i reckon i would have so much fun with the landmax if i didn't have to worry about it stalling all the time...
Oh btw, how do you get the pullstart of the backplate? cos there are no screws... as far as i can tell you just gotta rip it off right??
oh well... i am convinced now that i had a bodgy engine... just doesn't work.. isn't very user friendly... it used to be sooo good when i got it brand new... worked like a charm... then one day it started playing up and overheating...
I wannt get a hyper .21... all i need to get it the kyosho engine mount right?

Unobjectionable

06-27-2002, 08:52 AM

you can open up the filter and clean out that screen...

and yeah, the more you elaborate about how the GS 21 is running the more it sounds like an air leak...you should be able to get that fixed up with the silicone and have it last long enough to have some fun while you save to get a new engine...there are two screws at the back of the case next to the backplate, those two come off and the whole backplate pulls out with pullstart attached...i'm willing to bet one australian dollar that there will be dirt streaked all around that area inside...

to install a hyper 21 you would need the mounts, a new flywheel (sg), sg clutch nut, the little "clutch bell guide" thing, and some sort of decent clutch (to fully appreciate it, you're prolly about due for one anyway)

p.s. don't forget to let the silicone cure fully before you run it

KIRK S. DECKER

06-27-2002, 11:47 AM

BUKKAKE

I originally just wanted to run the mugen clutch shoes on a kyosho flywheel (but I read somewhere that the clutch shoes were compatible with ofna, gs, and mugen three shoed flywheels...it did not say that they couldnt be used with kyosho
flywheels so I figured kyosho was omiited for a reason?!? If you can find out from one of those buggy guys if the mugen/kyosho combo works Id probably go with this, as it was my original intention.
on a side note, the tower site just said the alita skyline bodies have arrived(after being on back order for several months...), mine should arrive today!!!!
oh yeah, ill also be recieving extra rear hub carriers from tower, also on back order for a long time...there is an interesting story with this...four months ago i noticed on tower that the rear hub carrier parts (used on both the lm1 and lm2) were listed as "discontinued". Two days later the part could no longer be found anywhere on the site..."no matches found". So i sent an email to great planes product support about this (i wanted extra rear hub carriers in my spare box for just in case). With in 2 days they emailed me back and said they would make sure tower would again carry this part...3 days later it was listed again !!!on tower as backordered until june. I have emailed these guys at greatplanes several times and have even called them , and ill tell you that they are probably the most helpful and courteous product support I have worked with. They know their kyosho stuff and im sure if you need info on how to get some parts they are probaly your best bet..that reminds me, i would love to get my hands on one of those all aluminum infero bellsteering cranks!!!

SixVi6

06-27-2002, 03:06 PM

Unobjectionable...

Black steel gears in the diffs? Nope.. The LM2 comes with silver cast steel gears in and around the diff. the option parts are the nice black steel machined gears but the good news is I've heard online and seen one 7.5 sport running with the silver cast gears, which are the same as the LM2, that have held up just fine to the fine high hp itialian engines in races.

Redfox

06-27-2002, 10:17 PM

I just can't figure this fuel filter out... it's just the basica blue duratrax one... i've cleaned the screen (it didn't have my in there anywayz...) and if i blow through just the screen it's fine... if i blow through just the metal barrel, it's also fine and flows nicely.. then when i put the screen in the barrel and blow... nothing gets through! So i am just gonna get a new fuel filter... maybe something is pinching inside there... hrmmmmmm

I will try to tune the engine better today... next saturday me and theo are going to castle hill offroad raceway... show them 1/10 buggy boys what a real car is!! :D
hehe hopefully the damn thing starts and runs! ;)

I think the reason it bogs and dies after the high speed runs i think is because it over heats...like my spit sizzles like a snag on a barby when i do a spit test... so i am gonna try running it richer today and see what happenz... i was just running it at a lean needle setting cos it was still spitting quite a lot of fuel out the exhaust...

french-fry

06-28-2002, 04:10 AM

Now that new tires are on the way:
What did you guys use to die your wheels?
Do you think it is possible to die them the gold color of real imprezas? Or would I have to paint them for that?

On a side note, I also ordered a second pair of Bsw-72 shocks so I'll have those at all four corners. What is interesting though is that bukkake mentioned awhile back that the bsw-72's needed a different shock tower. I, however, am having great success with them on the stock tower. And what an upgrade from the stock shocks...ick...silicon oil everywhere.

-Alex

P.S. Yesterday I was having some fun with my worn out tires and doing donuts on the pavement. Now two of the tires are completely separated from the inner sidewall. Suprisingly, it still drives relatively well. Granted I wasn't about to go do a speed test, but for just bashing in the 'hood, it was rather amusing. Especially when doing hard turns and the detached tire would catch on the pavement and make the car spin-out like it was on ice.

P.P.S. In one of those runs, yesterday, I also managed to cartwheel the car. About thirty seconds into a tank of fuel, I went over a bump that was far larger than it looked. The rear end bounced up and rotated in mid-air. One front wheel touched the ground and the car just cartwheeled away for about ten feet. It landed on its wheels and everything was fine. I was amazed! This car is durable!

Redfox

06-28-2002, 07:12 AM

Well, i ran it today and spent a while on the tuning... i was able to get it to run without stalling even after a couple of high speed runs... it still runs very hot, even though i had it set quite rich... anywayz the good news is that i think it will run fine next saturday when i take it out to castle hill...

I did a few things today with it as well... i had to replace a broken front lower arm... i had an accident yesterday that was quite spectacular... i zoomed it up my mates driveway with the throttle wide open... and it was coming towards me, and i sorta didn't think about the 1.5m drop behind me... anywayz i hit the brakes but not in time and the car flew off the stone wall and smacked into a tree mid air and then landed upside down on the grass... and i was like "COOOOOOL!!!" heheh... i was sooo surprised that nothing had broken, but i noticed it was steering left like it used to so i figured there was a bent sus bolt in there or something...

Then i took it out today and got it tuned and running, and then i started getting annoyed with the bad steering, and trimming didn't exactly help much... so i took it back up to my room and discovered the fully broken lower arm... i am very sure i broke it when i went flying into that tree.

Anywayz it was pretty hard to pull out the sus bolt cos it was pretty badly bent. And i am starting to get sick of straightening out these bent bolts... so one question for y'all is, is there anything i can replace them with that would not bend? Like any titanium parts or something?

And another thing i wanted to point out is that i reckon kyosho should've made the plastic where the shock screws into the sus arm much stronger or thicker. Because that's where it always breaks... i have broken two of them now, and i reckon US$12 for a few pieces of moulded plastic is a bit much...

A mate of mine reckons R/C is extortion... and i think i am starting to agree with him! heheh :p

Those LM2 arms look very solid... wish i could chuck them on my car :(

Oh another thing i did was adjust all the ride height grub screws in all the lower arms so that it was all level, cos before i think the car wasn't rigged up very straight. I also adjusted the shock settings for softer on the front and harder rear (it was totally the opposite before) because yesterday it was understeering like nothing...

Oh and theo said that he'd prolly take his camcorder to the track next weekend so that he can get some footage of us... a mate of mine is probably also bringing his 1/7th scale rally car. Should be quite a blast to see all three big scale cars ripping up the track! Theo might also post the vids on the net... so i'll let you know if he does...

Now that i got most of the car fixed up and set... i am just gonna get the 2 speed repaired under warranty (touch wood!) and then i can start thinking about gearing and fine tuning right? Am i right in saying that you can buy different toothed spur gears for the 2 speed? I also gotta get a new clutch cos this one has just about had it... geez infact i better get one quicksmart because i don't want it to break next weekend :(

Unobjectionable

06-28-2002, 09:37 AM

kirk, i will see if i can find out what the deal is with the shoes/flywheel...well done on the rear carriers, i had noticed that too...in fact, look at the peugeot LM2 right now, shown as discontinued ehehe...i think they get a little mixed up sometimes, as it has the subaru LM2 pic in there anyway...

and yeah, i would like one of the all aluminum deals too, also found the part number for the optional chassis they don't make anymore either (BSW-60, 3mm (i think) blue anodized)...there was also a BS-108 optional chassis that i can't find any info on...

john - thanks for the info, i figured that would be very unlike kyosho (ehehe)...i notice they don't seem to mention the actual replacement part numbers anywhere in the manual....rather sneaky

alex - you can dye the wheels with RIT fabric dye (or similar)...just sorta simmer the parts for 20 minutes or so...gold you will have to paint on though...

the LM2 front shock tower looks like it has holes for the optional shocks already, on the LM1 they don't give you a second higher set of holes, so the car winds up being oversprung if you just bolt em up..and yeah, the shocks are a great upgrade...i think those LM2 plastic shocks are just the old black shocks that used to come with the infernos, the blue plastic LM1 ones are even worse...

chris - glad you got some funtime in...if you want to avoid broken a-arms you can a.) not crash into stuff (heh) and b.) dye em

dyeing them will make them look cooler AND make em more flexible...the longer you leave them in there simmering, the more flexible they get...i have some used ones i dyed and forgot about that cooked for probably an hour or more, you can bend them almost in half but you can't snap em...this is not the best thing for on-road handling as flex in the suspension is never a good thing, but it does help a lot with durability...25-30 minutes on a fresh set of LM1 arms would be about right, still stiff but with a little more "give"...you can also drill that mounting hole a little deeper and use a longer screw so it has more material supporting it...

there are no official optional clutch bells or spur gears, i will post more info/part numbers etc. on my setup when i get it finished...

SixVi6

06-28-2002, 11:47 AM

hehe... yes Kyosho was rather sneeky with the diff and surrounding gears. Oh well if they actually do break I know that there is something else out there that is much better as far as strength and precision.

I also noticed that Tower's pics and the discontinued status for the LM2 Peugeot. I think they are either getting confused or that they are selling so many of the Ru LM2's in the US that they are not selling the Peugeots in anymore. Most people in the states have never even heard of Peugeot.

The LM2 2 speed is now in stock at Tower but funny part is the pic is now wrong. hmmm.. with the 3 speed solid axle Kyosho Mad Force comming out if you were really good you could put a 3 speed onto a LM. it would have crap for top speed with the gearing that is included but just imagine how fast it would acelerate!

They have the parts list for the mad force listed now including the 3 speed parts but no descriptions or pics yet..
Mad Force parts list (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p.pgm?I=KYOC0521)
Lots of the parts are straight from the 7.5. hmmm...

John

Unobjectionable

06-28-2002, 12:18 PM

yeah i have been trying to find out the teeth/shaft size etc. of the mad force tranny for a while now...even the people who have em don't know apparently (or can't count)...it has a pretty big lookin clutch bell, i imagine there is a good bit of reduction happening in the chain drive part

kirk, found some info for you on the subject, from another forum:

one semi-literate guy:

just get the Mugen ones and and a Mugen Flywheel Nut.. Turn it up side down and you r in there... or just get the Mugen GOLD flywheel and all the mugen stuff.. Shoes, Nut.. AND when you put on the motor put 3 of the shims in first then the flywheel...

and another guy listed some kyosho parts:

IFW136 3 Shoe Aluminum Clutch Shoes (3) - Blue Anodized $19.99
IFW53H 3 Shoe 1.1mm Clutch Springs - Hard Tension (3) 5.49

can't find those shoes listed at tower though, but i did find the mysterious VESPEL kc-45 clutch while i was looking...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXT907&P=7

will do some more looking tonight, must sleep

jeroen

06-28-2002, 03:13 PM

I've got the ladmax and also i have got the mad force so i can look if it is possible to fit the 3-speed into the landmax somehow

I'll let you guys know if it is possible to do it

Buy the way the mad force is a great truck and thee 3-speed is verry cool in it.

french-fry

06-28-2002, 03:50 PM

Hey bukkake,

It looks like tower has all the specs you need on the mad force:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXCGR3&P=0
It says the main gears are 40, 43, and 46 tooth. The clutch gears are 14, 17, and 20.

On a random side topic, it would be cool if the made RC cars in the same set up as a full size car. You know, front engine, with rear wheel drive and a solid axel in between. Then the engine's cooling head could stick out of the hood and look like those insane muscle cars. (I don't know why I was thinking about that, sometimes it just happens).

Jimmy33

06-28-2002, 03:53 PM

Damm just did the Subaru 98 car looks great. 1 run and the paint scratched off will putting a backing colour help this?

SixVi6

06-28-2002, 07:47 PM

Jimmy33...

What kinda paint did you use? if you used regular paint that was not made for Lexan it will all chip off. Other than that poor prep work by not cleaning off all the oil and junk that is on the body will also cause the paint to chip but a white or silver backing is a good idea for all lexan bodies. I usually paint mine then coat them with 3 coats of white to back the color.

The Hyper .21 is in!!!
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_41.jpg

the Ofna Hyper .21 is installed and I've run it a bit around the house. Its got insane stump pulling torque!! Lots of power but its all at low RPMs and the Dynamite Sport buggy pipe that I run is a low RPM pipe which makes it worse. Since It was my Birthday this week I got some extra cash and am going to grab either a Cvec or RB High RPM pipe. That should help smooth out the tremendous low end of this engne and give a bit more mid high power. If not I'll just gear it up another tooth to 17t. A few other things for anyone thinking about a Hyper .21.. The piston sleve clearance is really tight when its new. I litterally tore up my hands just starting it for break in. Be sure to have the piston at Bottom dead center to start it or else you won't even be able to pull the cord. Mine was really really rich and had to lean it out a bit just to get it to start and idle.

Redfox

06-28-2002, 09:27 PM

Originally posted by Unobjectionable
chris - glad you got some funtime in...if you want to avoid broken a-arms you can a.) not crash into stuff (heh) and b.) dye em

Bukkake, "not crashing into stuff" is an artform........... which i have not yet mastered!

Has anyone found that with the crappy stock blue shocks (which i still have one my car... don't laugh :( ) that the front ones, in order to be set up fairly soft, tend not to allow the car to srping back to it's original ride height? Like generally if you push it down, it only comes back up 1/2 way?? And i don't wanna make them harder or else it's gonna get hard to drive it...

Also, since my radio hasn't got any end-point adjustment, i have decided that the brakes come on way too hard and i wanna dampen them out a bit... i know a good way of doing it, and that would involve grinding the contact side of the brake cam so that it's slightly rounded... then apparently it would give the driver more of a feel for the brake and would have a smoother braking curve...

i found this info on a website last nite that i think is very cool and very informative... the site is concerned with the big 1/5th cars but all the setup tips are relevant to all R/C... and it's even got these cool moving pics to explain everything...
http://www.rctek.com/index.html
no doubt you net junkies have already found it! hehehe

So anywayz, i was also thinking of lengthening the fuel tubing that sits between the brake lever and the stopper on the brake linkages. I'm sure that would dampen the brakes quite well....

Anywayz if you have any suggestions, i'd love to know...

:D

Unobjectionable

06-29-2002, 12:11 AM

thanks for the info on the mad force, i see in tower's description (which seems to have grown in the last week or two) that it looks to have a 6mm shaft same as the GT-30 does (without it's bearing collars on)...the gearing is even about right

so the trick would be modifying/making a 6mm shaft that would accept the tranny, fit it in between the LM center diff mounts, and have flat spots for attaching the drive cups, instead of that chain drive sprocket stuff...

probably cost $150 to build the whole transmission from the replacement parts, but DAMN what an upgrade that would be...

"WAAAAAAAAAAAa WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAa WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAa jeez where'd it go?"

i guess we will wait and see on that one, somebody will do it sooner or later...

jimmy - where did you find the old style subaru body? i had ordered one from another place because i didn't want to pay tower $80 for it, but they were out of stock, then tower changed it to discontinued (DOH!)...did you get the last one?

side note on that: for some reason, a lot of people have the superten subaru body listed as a landmax body, already got bit in the ass by that one, watch those part numbers... KYOC2525/39767 is the correct one

john - wow that looks HUGE mounted, that purple has to go though, too HPI for me...haha...if you decide to try that cvec, get the longer 170 model, not that shorty one that tower stocks now...if you've never tried one you are in for a treat..better power and dramatically longer runtime blah blah, but worth the cost just for the sound...i will pimp these things forever, they really do work, but most importantly, sound MEAN...more yamaha RZ-350 than ryobi weedwhacker...

chris - try the fuel tubing first...the more you add, the more progressive the brakes feel (but don't forget to re-adjust the linkage stoppers)...what is your opinion of the MP-6 brakes thus far?

i had seen that site for the first time maybe last week actually, they do have some sweet toys in there...

and yes, the stickiness in the shocks is a good part of why they suck, you could try some assembly lube like "green slime" or similar, that will probably help a little...

Redfox

06-29-2002, 02:57 AM

Oh yeah... forgot about the brakes!

Well for starters, they look really really coool... cross drilled rotors always manage to look good. Although i have seen some kyosho cross drilled ones for a 1/10th scale TC and they looked nowhere near as good as these ones do...

Performance whise, they are excellent... i actually never lock the car up going in a straight line. I only get the wheels locked if you start sliding sideways... but in a straight line they stop very quickly (way quicker than the nylon disks with nitro on them! ;) ) i have even already spilt fuel in them (i got a new fuel bottle with a big bore nozzle and i am not used to those things... so first time i refueled after the rebuild, i managed to splash nitro all over the front brake :P ) But it works great... the pads have even stayed on!! So the CA that i used for gluing the pads on obviously works quite well for this application.

I just re-did the whole throttle brake linkage setup.

The throttle rod was binding quite a lot and as a result, if you put on throttle then release to neutral it wouldn't go back... I had to hit the brake to make it go to idle. Anywayz i pulled it all off, scrapped the old fuel tubing and cut ones that were about 1.5 times the length of the suggested fuel tubing... I also took out each rod and polished it with some Autosol metal polish until it was sparkling again... and i really mean sparkling! It was soo smooth... then i cleaned out the inside of the little servo horn linkage slide connector by spraying silicon in there... And after reassembling the whole linkage and adjusting the brakes, it all works great again. The throttle linkage spring actually brings the throttle back to idle like it used to when it was brand spankin new!

Oh and the longer fuel tubing does do the trick... i have noticed a vast improvement in the progressive feel for the brakes. Before i just had to hit the brakes on the TX only 20% of full brake, and it would lock the wheels... now 30% is a light to medium brake, and 60-70% gets them pretty much stopped... i have yet to drive it like this cos i am sorta supposed to be studying, hehehe...

I also had a problem with the right wheel just clipping the back of the wheel well in the body when it was turning... i think the prob was either bent body posts or a slightly bent body... and i didn't wanna enlarge that hole, but i found that if you keep the side of the body pushed out a bit it gives it clearance. So i cut some foam and double sided it onto the body. This is the Ford Escort body btw...

Oh, and as a matter of interest, anyone here who is familiar with the Escort body, don't you reckon that the back looks like the back of a BMW 3 series? pretty weird...

:D

SixVi6

06-29-2002, 03:09 AM

Yes I agree the purple head is just soooo HPI and the head looks big because it is really big and barney purple. lol.. barney is purple and HPI uses purple. hmmmm....

And I called my fav LHS today and they happen to have the long old style .21 Cvec pipe in stock and on sale, three of them actually but guess what colors they have... you'll never guess... It screams HPI... yes purple and the all together tacky gold. I guess the gold will match the suspension plate but the purple will match the head. both are just hmmmm... yeah.. lol.. decisions who knows I may just spring for the Rb 086 pipe or just ge the purple or gold Cvec then promptly remove all the anno. I know all about the CVEC pipes. I had one of the old sinny ones on my NRS4 and one of the new ones on my t-maxx and loved them.

Hmmm that mad force gearing would be nuts on an an LM. Make that work and drop a super powerfull on road engine in there and look because the RC land speed record will fall. lol.. well not really but it would be dang fast and you would not need a runway to get up to speed. :eek:

3434

06-29-2002, 03:01 PM

Three speed!! Drool

3434

06-29-2002, 03:03 PM

Wish I knew more about puters. Then I could send better pictures

SixVi6

06-29-2002, 03:46 PM

OK thats it.. Hyper .21 is a thumbs down! :mad:

I've spent the entire morning and part of the afternoon trying to get this engine to run well and its impossible. Tunning is impossible. I took the carb apart and sealed it up right away and sealed teh backplate just like most people recomend and still it just won't tune. it will run great for 30 seconds then stall randomly. you richen it up an 1/8 turn and it bogs and runs horrible. it will only idle when you first start it then stall. I've tried four different glow plugs Mccoy 59's.. mccoy 9's.. OS A5's.. and 3's nothing works. Its got power but too bad it only lasts for a few seconds then it stalls. I've bought a $120 paper weight. :mad: Do not Buy an Ofna Hyper .21!!! Save you pennies for a "real" real engine.

I think I'm going to sell it at a huge loss and buy a couple Megatech .21 pull start engines and port it just like the one on my maxx. They have a much smoother powerband and are reliable.

edit.. or what my best bet would be is to get a good stareter box and pick up a real engine. Collari XS or heck all out and go C5 on the thing.

Jimmy33

06-29-2002, 04:51 PM

The Subaru body came from the LHS on next day delivery from the stockist Ripmax

Pr0k

06-29-2002, 07:50 PM

V16, say it aint so! actually I have heard this before some guy in ebay selling his cause he couldn't tune it. Others swear by em, It seems to be hit or miss. Have you tried sealing the carb

[edit]?HAHAH I didn't read you post too well the first time, the rest still stands so you like the the megatech engines?

SixVi6

06-30-2002, 02:38 AM

well the two megatech pull start engines that I've had their problems but most of that was in metal flashing and shavings and machining of the case and the sleve but with one of my trusty dremels the flashing and poor ports were easily fixed. I did not have to seal anything on the megatech's and I got 7 gals from the first and the current one has 5 through it and still has good compression but the rear bearing was letting loose.. I've already replaced the bearing though and have droped that back onto the t-maxx.

this hyper is a complete pain. I'm about 3 tanks from a gallon wasted just trying to get this thing running halfway decent. Its soo bad I borrowed my friends starter box and have been using that for the hyper just to save whats left of my hands. They are already raw and bleed a bit from ynaking th pull starter so much.

The hyper is the most powerfull pull start engine money can buy. When mine runs well it really flies but I've had this engine totally apart 3 times now trying over and over again to get it sealed and ruinning. If I had to do it over again I'd not buy one. Get a starter box and a real real engine. I've had 2 .21's on my tmaxx and a dozen smallblocks on various nitro Rc's and I've never had problems like this ever.

heck.. I assembled a 700+ hp ford 351 stroker motor yesterday and my buddy had it running by this evening.. but this stinking little 2hp single cylinder engine has stoped me in my tracks. sheesh..

SixVi6

06-30-2002, 01:38 PM

well I've had it.. Hyper .21 is a horrible engine. after 3 days and an almost complete gallon of fuel its still not running right. Engine Nut wants me to send it to him so he can take a look at it so I'll probably do that but even if I get a new one from him I won't bother even trying to run it. Hyper .21's make a very nice paperweight but thats about it. I've put the Megatech .21 back into the t-maxx and the GS21 back into the Landmax 2 and they both run great with these engines so its not a problem with the setup.

:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

Unobjectionable

06-30-2002, 10:16 PM

i am sorry to hear that...you think it might be a carb problem? makes me wonder also if a motor could be TOO tight, like not yet really broken in, and stall/run like crap because of the extra friction...did you have the piston stick at all?

jimmy - ahhh you are in the u.k., how are the prices buying from ripmax? i'm never sure if the crazy prices here are due to the yen:usd thing, or due to great planes (kyoshos only us distrib.) being money-hungry...or both

3434 - good to see you again stranger, hows the racing?

check this out fellers....i was looking at the mad force replacement parts list, and i notice it uses the GTW-20 gears for it's 3 speed...now taking bets on when we will see the first 3 speed LM2...lots of other familiar stuff in there too

www.kyosho.com/cars/kyoc0521parts.html
http://www.kyosho.com/cars/kyoc0521tranniebig.jpg

more on my 2 speed project...i got another clutch bell the other day...ordered the kyosho SU-01 from tower, and they sent me the FORM one...it's a sweet looking stainless steel bell (vented even!), dimensionally the same as the 39666, only problem is the threading appears to be very slightly different (and i mean VERY, they are the exact same diameter), kyosho 2nd gear spins right on, 1st gear binds about 2 turns on...i guess i will pick up a FORM first gear for it and use it for the megastupidspeed project

chris - sounds like you are getting it, setup is half the fun...ehehe

i like the escort body too...did you paint yours "box style"?

Unobjectionable

06-30-2002, 10:35 PM

eheh the more i look at that pic, the more i see how easy it would be...move a diff mount, lose that sprocket and cut the shaft at those flat spots where the collars are...blammo, the rest is a drop-in almost

they should sell the whole tranny/bell etc as a kit, i would buy one

3434

06-30-2002, 10:37 PM

What do you think of the clutch bell for the Mad Force?? Two LD-70s. Haven't been racing, been working. Would only come on for a few minutes never made it this far. I have to get back into project 4 stroke landmax. Been so long it has dust on it.

Unobjectionable

06-30-2002, 10:41 PM

hehheheh i know how it is...i have exactly ZERO rc cars that are actually ready to be played with (not counting the bit char g)

so you have been taking photographs of catalogs this whole time? my appreciation of your efforts just tripled

hehe you had to mention that clutch bell, prolly stuff about 20 5x8s in there ahaha...i can't find which teeth fit it, looks like it comes with from the pic you posted before...hmmmm

Pr0k

06-30-2002, 11:46 PM

Well it was raining this morning, so i was browsin around and ended up buying another LM1. That will be a total of 3! I need to stay off ebay, ehehe I will post pics when they arrive.

3434

06-30-2002, 11:59 PM

There not listing the pinions separate. But they should be nice and wide sense the spur gears are the same.

Unobjectionable

07-01-2002, 12:00 AM

junkie

Unobjectionable

07-01-2002, 12:01 AM

yeah i'm willing to bet it uses 39666 teeth, 2 highs (the 17,20) and 1 low (14) judging from your exploded pic...probably make a sweet 2 speed bell if one were to hack the end off, plenty of room for the clutch

3434

07-01-2002, 12:13 AM

Thats an idea. The picture I have is better but it doesn't look like there are any threads for second and third gear

Unobjectionable

07-01-2002, 12:40 AM

yah i noticed that too...but then they would spin on the bell...maybe just a lazy illustrator

SixVi6

07-01-2002, 01:36 AM

I've been told that the hyper .21s are really tight and that is the reason it stalls all the time but the megatech .21's I've had were the exact same way and I never had any problems like this. I have almost a full gallon and an entire weekend of cursing, tear downs, and riped up hands into it. I think I'll give it one last shot tomorow in the LM2 then its time to ship it off or, depending on my mood, get the torch and melt it into a glob of aluminum just to have some kind of fun with it. The GS21 is an engine sent from God compared to the satan spawn hyper. Just another reason why I think ofna = junk. I've not liked anyhitng ofna makes except for their starter boxes and a few other universal parts and tools.

hmmm.. ya know it does look to be a relativly eazy drop in for that 3 speed into an LM2. the clutchbell would never clear the gas tank but heck there are lots of other gas thanks to choose from that would work. interesting.

Unobjectionable

07-01-2002, 01:49 AM

yeah give it a chance i guess...see if you can high-idle a few tanks and maybe it'll loosen up some...

are the other guys with the enginenutbarneyheads having any such problems?

and for dogs sake dont melt it...donate it to a worthy cause ehehe

i feel bad now for having recommended it, if you don't have any luck with it tomorrow i will make you a fair offer for that one or it's replacement...

Unobjectionable

07-01-2002, 01:57 AM

hahah i can see the gears turning in your head...

i agree to some extent about ofna, but ho bao makes the hyper and most of the other GOOD stuff (though i guess that is arguable ahah)...but who am i to say, i buy duratrax e-clips and exhaust gaskets to save on shipping (= CHEAP)

btw, i am gonna place an order for an assload of the right sized shims from an industrial supply place, $7 per pack for kyosho diff shims is the best scam going...i will pimp those things all over ebay and hook you guys up for cost..ehehe

SixVi6

07-01-2002, 02:37 AM

Enginenut said I'm the first that he has heard having strange problems but interestingly enough my post on maxxtraxx has gotten a couple replies and I've recieved a couple emails from people with the new purple head hypers that have the same problems also. One guy recenly bought his through enginenut from ebay but he's afraid to say anyhting.
I'm getting pretty bad with the hyper now though. If it lasts for another week it will be a miracle. This evening I tossed the hyper back in the LM2 to show a 1/8 buggy racer friend that lives near me and I was just wreckles. start it and full throttle.. no warming it up or taking any kind of care for the engine. It performed flawlessly for him.. the hyper ran for about 30 seconds and then just stalled. I restarted it richened it up a bit and ran it for another 30 seconds and it stalled and I kept trying, leaning it from horrible hot lean to gurgly slow rich until the tank ran out. it does it on the throttle or off but more often it stalls just as I let off the throttle at any rpm. I'm not taking it apart anymore thats for sure. I could probably tear it down with my eyes shut at this point. He had the same sugestion that mabey its just still tight but even he said that his super tight race engines are trouble free and running great after just a 1/2 gallon. hmm.. I sould get a 3 speed working on the LM2. 30 seconds of the hypers power would be all I need with a 3 speed to get some pretty silly speed. lol.. mabey I should rig the Hyper into the HPI NMT that I have laying around that nobody wants. 30 seconds of hyper power into that would probably fold it in half. lol..

french-fry

07-01-2002, 02:43 AM

Man that's rotten luck with the hyper...maybe that old saying, you get what you pay for, is right no matter how good the deal is. Hope you get something out of it (melt it!.....do it......common, you know you want to!).

Anyway, on a brighter note, I got my two speed all set-up yesterday and today I was out cruisin the neighborhood with it. Man! That thing is sweet! *looks at three speed with green eyes of envy* Of course I really haven't had chance to see a real run, considering now two of my tires are completely separated from the inner sidewall. Pretty much, I would get it to shift and then hit the brakes hard because that little car was bouncing all over the place! I'll post some pics (not too big ;) ) tomorow.

On a technical issue, my dad and I were discussing the whole gearing thing and we got to wondering if these little engines were powerful enough to have a one to one drive ratio. I mean, theoretically, if you had enough gears would these little guys have the power to give you one to one?

-Alex

Redfox

07-01-2002, 06:56 AM

Yeah bukkake, i've painted it "box style"... it looks almost exactly the same except i've stuck on some small kyosho decals that day i went decal crazy...

SixVi6, really sorry to hear about your hyper... infact i was seriously thinking of getting one, but i think i'll get an OS engine... infact theo showed me a site in singapore where they are selling the OS V-01B pilotshaft model for 350 singporean dollars.. that's about AU$350!! that is like US$180... that is stupidly cheap... I will ask him for the site again cos i forgot to bookmark it... i was seriously thinking of getting this engine...

I took the LM to my mates place today and i ran it... it was actually a little lean at first and as a result it absolutely FLEW!!!! i had the car coming straight for me at a point and it was going hell fast and it didn't occur to me to hit the brake!! LOL so i almost took my leg off, but i had to jump over it to avoid it. It was pretty funny, but i don't fancy the idea of 3kg flying into my leg at 55kmh... :eek:
Then after those few high speed runs i richened it up and it didn't stall once... i was very pleased! One thing though... after seeing that speed when it was tuned well, i think i'm going to ***** myself when i get the 2 speed in there... geeeez....

Oh SixVi6, i was wondering if maybe it would help to polish your piston... cos apart from making it hell smooth it might make it less tight in the sleeve and could be a step towards getting your engine running...

Also, i know it sounds stupid because i'm not a nitro pro and i know you're not dumb, but is the everything sealed up real well? Cos your symptoms are almost identical to the probs i had with the GS21R and in the end after i rebuilt it and sealed the backplate good and proper, it runs fine... Oh and i heard that the hyper carbs have a prob with the o ring or something that seals it...

Anywayz goodluck with it!! If ya don't want it, i know there are a lotta guys reading this thread that would like to take it off your hands!! (read: "ME") hehehehe

Oh and french-fry... have you tried gluing your tyres back onto your rims?? Cos my last set of tyres had worn on the sides a lot and i think because i keep bashing into things and being hell rough to them, that they actually broke through the sidewalls of the tyre where that plastic lip is inside.... if you know what i mean... So last nite i CAed the rips together and there were some longs ones that i glued together, and then in the end i put a long bead around the broken part and it's all nice n strong now... It's just a suggestion, and i figure it might give you another few seconds of rippin up the pitch!! (or the diamond in your case!)

Oh one more thing... now that i have got my car running again i am **** scared of running it on the street!! Cos my street ain't that wide and after todays episode with it nearly hitting me (then it just missed my real car... geeez), i have decided i don't like running it on the street cos i'm gonna crash it really bad since it goes so fast in a confined space, or it's gonna get run over!!

Oh i just remembered... my pullstart is giving trouble.. It's just that the one way is slipping pretty badly... like it would only grab for one rotation of the crankshaft everytime i yanked it... That was at the beginning... But at the end when the engine was hot, it grabbed like it used to when it was new... Is it possible that these is oil in there and when the engine gets hot, it burns it off?? When i took off my backplate the other day i couldn't get the pullstarter off (well i didn't wanna force it)... how do you get it off?? Since it's just a clip, i presume you get a small screw driver in there and pry it off right?? Wouldn't that damage the casing and then allow dirt to get in?? I reckon a slipping one way in the pullstart is the most unsatisfying feelings in the world... All that yanking and no cranking... it makes me MAD!

And also, the copper sealant i used to seal up the backplate... is it easy to get off?? Cos if i wanna take my engine apart again, i wanna know if it's easy to scrape off so i can apply a new layer....

Sorry for the long post and all my ranting... i'll shut up now!

Redfox

07-01-2002, 08:19 AM

Here's the website for that RZ V-01B from singapore... just click on the OS engines link...

http://www.rotor.com.sg/

Jimmy33

07-01-2002, 11:22 AM

Dude my car hit me yesterday after the stearing servo shered off it f*****g hurt!

Unobjectionable

07-01-2002, 03:20 PM

hehe i'll admit it, i have bruised my ankles before...

alex - i think a 1:1 final drive ratio would be too much, check out the articles on steveps 100mph HPI POS SNR...$6000 5lb car with 3hp engine and 2.5 FDR in 2nd, with some lovely purple anodized aluminiuniunium

www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/SuperNitro1.asp
www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/SuperNitro2.asp

imagine the damage that would do to your ankle/mailbox

chris - probably need to clean that one-way, i just spray em out with WD 40, you should be able to get the pullstart casing off with your fingernails, pop the upper part off first and the rest just wiggles off, watch out taking it off or the spring will take yer eye out...darn these HRI (hobby related injuries), not bad enough the fuel gives you cancer...ahaha

Unobjectionable

07-01-2002, 03:41 PM

p.s. silicone is not too hard to get off, once you get it started you can rip it off in pieces usually

i noticed there is a new os, 2.5hp claimed, kinda pretty but for the money i would take one of them fancy eyetalian engines, maybe i will rob a liquor store and buy me a nova

http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg2071.jpg

SixVi6

07-01-2002, 06:07 PM

. . well I droped the hyper off on the guy that looked at it yseterday. I work with him and talked to him today about what could be causing the random stalling. he sid he'd take a look at it. so grabbed the engine on my lunch break and handed it to him.
.. he races 1/8 buggies and flys RC planes and all kinds of crap and has an engine breakin stand in an air conditioned garage! lol.. he told me straight up that his wife makes the real money.. all the money from his job is just for toys! How unfair is that? anyways.. he told me from watching me run it yesterday that is has lots of power and good compresison but agrees that there is something physicially stoping it. The only thing he looked at yesterday was limited to what could be seen when you pull the head off and did say that mabey its just still tight. He also said it could be a bearing that is not quite pressed all the way into the case or a loose bearing itself. I told him that there did appear to be a bit of brown heat marks on the crank right where the bearing rides. He's got lots of .21 parts though and said that if its a bearing or something that he has around not to worry about it. Also he said he'd run it on the stand for a bit nice and rich after he tears it down and looks at it to be sure its broken in totally. Fingers are crossed I hope he gets it all running well. I'm off to his house now to have a peek at his garage.. and his RC cars.. and his RC planes.. ohh and there is the hyper thing too.

SixVi6

07-01-2002, 10:10 PM

Yes!! I'm back and it runs great now. There were two problems and this will take a bit of typing.

One problem was the rear bearing was not in good shape. the crank had some brownish hot spots and wear lines on it on it where the rear bearing rides. he said it was from the bearing dragging across the crank. He replaced the rear bearing for me and showed me the old one. it would spin smooth and then all the sudden grab and found that the retaining ring that holds the balls in place was cracked off in one spot allowing one of the balls to move about quite a bit. He said since I didn't find anything in the case when I opened it up initially and the engine shows no damage it was probably bad when it was installed and luckily it didn't come apart.

The other problem was my fault he said it was not quite fully broken in. He asked my what temp it was broken in at and I don't have a temp gun so I didn't know. He said it was probably too cold during break in and went on to explain that the high power .21's will run at a really wide range of tuning compared to the smallblocks. He later had it on the break in stand and noted that this engine could run at an astonishing 160 deg rich temp. also he said part of the problem is I broke it in during some hot 85-90 deg humid temps which makes it harder for the spit test and touching the top of the head to check temp.

It was pretty funny during the engine stand testing. After he fixed the bearing and put it back together he quickly bolted the hyper to the break in stand and set it up using my pipe and header and began checking it out and started it. then shut it off without saying a word and put a different pipe on there then said his ears are ringing. Lol.. The Dynamite sport pipe I have is now too loud with a real engine pushing exhaust through it and I agree. He ran it through about 100cc's at a good 210 deg at the glowplug. It stalled a few times on him. He shut it off and checked the compression and found it to be in good shape and let it cool. It was then that I got a chance to look at his other toys. I drooled at the sight of two RB WS7's sitting in plastic bags on the workbench and a third one on his 7.5 as well as a C4 sitting in its box next to another rolling chassis 7.5 and an MP6 that he just plays with. He said the C4 was too much power and RPM for the tracks that he runs. I asked if he would sell it and he said, "What to drop on your 7.5 rally?" I said, "heck yeah!" he replied, "You would kill someone but I'll think about it." he had several planes also and airplane 4 strokes laying around. Anyways he started up the hyper again and ran it through another 100cc's of fuel at the same temp. This time it only stalled once. During then his wife came home and he had to leave so he handed me a temp gun along with the engine and told me to run one more tank on the rally and keep the temps below 225 but above 200 then tune it just like any other engine and it will be fine. I raced home and ran it of course and now it’s running a lot better. It still abruptly stalled once but that’s it. I’ll give it good workout tomorrow and get a good test of it.

Bill's a very cool guy.. He told me to give him a ring and he'll let me borrow one of his temp guns if I need to break in another engine. He just looks rather mean and doesn't say much and being that I'm in my mid 20s and he's in his mid 50's I just didn't think he was this into RC's at all and would not be this nice and help me out. Don't judge a book by it cover holds true in this case for sure. I left his house thinking one thing.. I want that C4!!! lol..

Pr0k

07-01-2002, 10:21 PM

Another generation gap shot to hell by RC! Cool deal on the engine, like I said hit or miss on those engines. Makes you wonder if perhaps there is a bad production batch floating around.

Redfox

07-01-2002, 10:37 PM

Cool SixVi6... that's great news...

I have some pretty bad news... i called up dawn trading today and they told me that they wouldn't repair any kyosho stuff that was not bought in Australia... that is BS cos i spoke to tower and they said that any kyosho repairer in australia should fix the 2speed transmission under a kyosho warranty (worldwide i presume) fukc i hate australian businesses... In the USA everything is about customer satisfaction and that's why it's so much nicer to buy stuff in the states... if it doesn't work then they'll fix it... here in australia, if it doesn't work, they don't wanna know anything about it!

So i called tower again and the guy said that i would just have to send it back to the hobby services repair centre in champaign IL...

So i won't be running a 2 speed for another few months or so i guess... F#CK this is annoying... why did that pilot shaft have to break!?

:mad:

SixVi6

07-01-2002, 10:58 PM

That bad news Red.
well the states are the way they are because over there you are SOL. if you are denied getting something fixed like that here you just hire a lawyer and sue for damages and emotional distress. at least you can run the LM2 with a single speed for now. it does suck that you have to send it back here though.

Yeah I shot an e-mail to the ohter guy that is having very similiar problems with his hyper that bought it from engine nut. to let him know the problem I had on mine. I guess it makes sense that it was broken in at too low a temp. I could never keep the engine running for very long so it never got hot enough to get it broken in right. there may just be a few floating around with the same problem.. or mine may just be a freak thing. what make sit hard is that the engine is known for not being sealed so everybody says I've missed something sealing it I never thought to check the bearing or anything like that. ahh.. its all fixed now or at lest seems as if it is.

Redfox

07-02-2002, 12:46 AM

Hey fellas, can you pull off the PS to clean the one way without having to take off the backplate?? Cos i don't wanna hafta seal up the backplate again since the engine is working fine right now...

Unobjectionable

07-02-2002, 01:59 AM

yeah it just kinda snaps on (and off)

john - very glad to hear the thing is shaping up, what kind of plug are you running in it now?

if you are denied getting something fixed like that here you just hire a lawyer and sue for damages and emotional distress.

that is the funniest line in this thread

Redfox

07-02-2002, 02:21 AM

Hey if anyone wants to buy another LM1, tower has the Alfa on sale for $330.70... i dunno how long this'll last...

hey they finally reduced the price of the Lancer to $349... although i reckon my ford escort for $309 was a bargain... but $330 isn't far off...

i think it's time that the LM1s move aside for the LM2s... everyone is realising this and i think tower is too...

Redfox

07-02-2002, 02:52 AM

Hey pplz... i just found this site that i remembered from a long time ago. The guys who made it claim that the GS21R is a 1.7hp engine and that it can get to 90kmh (55mph) and the two speed gets it up to 110kmh... i find that a bit hard to believe tho... check it out yourself...

http://hem.passagen.se/impulse_traitor/landmax.htm

although on their pics page they have pics of the LM attacking this huge rock and i thought that was pretty impressive!!

http://hem.passagen.se/impulse_traitor/pictures.htm

:)

Unobjectionable

07-02-2002, 02:54 AM

yah, well the LM1s were officially discontinued this year (glad i bought that 2001 catalog!) so "watch for falling prices" on tower's stock...parts won't be an issue for a long time (especially considering the LM2 uses a lot of the same stuff)

yeah i saw that a while ago, it's mentioned in the "landmax web pages" thread at nitroreview

http://www.nitroreview.com/newforum/forum2.cfm?TopicID=395&clubid=42

btw i listed ***********/gp-20.com with google today, should start appearing in searches before too long...heheh right click and view source on the index page, check out that metaname collection (those are the "key words" that the search looks for)

Redfox

07-02-2002, 06:18 AM

No one seems to have commented on the cheap OS RZ V-01Bs from that singapore site that i listed on the prev page... is that a good deal??

Also, recently i was contemplating putting on that fron bumper that i bought about a month and a half ago... the prob is that it doesn't fit completely under the escort body... I think it would fit fine under the onroad bodies like the skyline or volvo, but i think the escort body might be a bit stubbier... so it sticks out the front like a splitter or something... But the body sits a bit lower even, so the body kinda is propped up higher than i've set it on the front body posts if you know what i mean.

So what i was wondering was..... first of all, do ppl run the LMs with just the plastic bumper on, or do they also always use the foam to take the impact... i imagine a high speed impact with that bumper would sheer off the screws holding the bumper and front diff in place...

I was gonna make my own foam bumper cos i got the high density foam... but since the plastic bumper sticks out so far it wouldn't fit under the body... So, i was thinking maybe i should cut the plastic bumper off by about 1.5cm at the front so i can mount the foam bumper. I just think it would be a shame to cut and ruin this bumper since i did pay about AU$30 for it...

What do you guys think?? And does a front onroad bumper get in the way when you are driving on offroad tracks?? like clay offroad??

Redfox

07-02-2002, 07:13 AM

Hey i was just trying out that trick where you put your airfilter in a bag and pour in a bit of nitro and then the nitro evaporates leaving oil to be an air filter oil... well the outside of my airfilter foam just started to disintegrate!! hehehe it just started crumbling off... the inside seems to be ok but i just can't figure out what's going on with the outside!! it was from the parts that seemed really crusty... maybe it got burnt by the engine before i started using the dust cover... hrmmmmm

Markus

07-02-2002, 08:13 AM

Nitro is agressive and simply disolved the foam.

Redfox

07-02-2002, 08:34 AM

Bugger...

oh well it seems to be ok now... no more foam is coming off and the nitro has sorta evaporated (read: "i squeezed it all out") so there is only castor in there... should be fine to run i think...

SixVi6

07-02-2002, 06:21 PM

Redfox.. that is a dirt cheap price for the RZ 01 and I hear they are really powerfull and well manered.
ya have to watch it using nitro fuel to clean and oil filters. There is some kind of additive in some nitro now that melts certain plastics and I guess your filter too.

I wish the LM2 had a foam bumper for it. right now all its got is a tiny 1/8 buggy thing thatis designed more to keep the nose from digging into the ground and scrubing off speed on a front heavy landing. hmm... I may just have to make something I'm sure Kyosho will come out with a foam bumper for the LM2 but I'm also sure because its a Kyosho Option part that it will cost some silly amount.

Unobjectionable.. Right now, I think, I have an OS A3 in the hyper and it was running fine. lol.. I had several plugs in there so I'm not totally sure what I put in there last but I think its the a3.. either way it seems to like whatever plug in in there I'll have to chek it later since OS stamps their plugs. I'm going to buy a few MC9's and MC59's and see how those work out I ran out of plugs last week and the LHS's were out of the very popular Mccoy plugs so I chose the next best thing.
lol.. yes I chuckled too when I was typing the lawyer line.. Its funny but still ironically true.

Grrr.. I want to run the LM2 with the hyper but its wayyyyy hot here today. 96*F and high humidity. the kind of heat that is just hard to breathe in. oh well.. I guess I have laundry to do.

edit.... Just curious.. I've heard many people say theat they will not run their nitro RC's if its really hot or below freezing. I don't subscribe to that personally I've run my Nitro RC's in snow and extreme heat and have had no problems. but I can see how the heat part could be bad for an engine if you lean it too much..
What are your thoughts on running a nitro RC in the temp extremes?

John

Unobjectionable

07-02-2002, 10:46 PM

yeah they get $180us for the RG, and the 01 is the hot buggy engine now, runs more like $280...i'm sure it's very nice and will FER SHURE be crazy fun in the LM, rated 2.4hp

i wouldn't cut the bumper, you could make one for a few bucks...they sell lexan sheet in the hardware stores here in a variety of thicknesses, can't be too hard to find there either...you could use fiber or alumin(i)um too, if you wanted to get fancy

the rally car bodies are generally shorter than the touring car ones (skyline is like 24" long), scroll back a few pages and you will see pr0k's escort looks the same way with foam/bumper on, like it's about to bust out of the shell ala pam anderson...the foam really has to be trimmed to suit the body to look right, and will work better that way also...and even the rally bodies would benefit from being trimmed up in front when used in the rough stuff, the front spoilers are pretty deep on most of em....the bumper will help protect the front of the bodies more though, perhaps at the cost of a little more dig-in if you land with a nose-down attitude...

also, you can usually find castor oil at the drugstore (chemist)...or you can find real air filter oil (we have bel ray or twin air etc) at a motorcycle shop...either of these is fine, and far cheaper than buying the same stuff in tiny 2 oz. bottles for $12aus...the kyosho foams are some weird stuff that puffs up when exposed to some kinds of oils, might wanna get some refills from somebody else...i still think the best deal going is the paris k&n for $10 from ace...i did find some duratrax (gasp) foams, 3 for ~$3 at tower, i hear they are very nice, dense as any mugen/rb/whatever and certainly cheap enough (relatively anyway)

john - well, the MC might help a little more now, the A3 plug is a little shorter i think, might not fit as far down into the combustion chamber as it could, course that might not be hurting considering it's lowering compression a bit...hard to say, i'm just glad the thing is shaping up now

as far as the cold weather thing, i don't think the tuning would be a real issue except in extremes, running on hard packed snow or an iced over lake would be SWEET, would run great once the engine was warm, almost like supercharging with all that cold dense air...the plastic does get stiffer and more fragile the colder it is though...for really hot/humid weather i guess you could add a little more oil to the fuel if you were worried about lubrication, never hurts anyway

Unobjectionable

07-02-2002, 11:14 PM

p.s. eheh almost forgot...i got inspired this morning and trimmed the crank etc, fitted everything loosely and whaddya know, it all lines up real nice...still need to get a few more 5x8mm bearings for the bell (thinking 3 regular, 1 flanged will be purrrfect) before i can run it, but i now have 16/19 gearing, good for a theoretical 48.3mph@35K rpm in a LM1 (15/43 in the gearbox vs. 13/43 for LM2) with 3.5" (low profile street) tires or 62.11mph in an inferno with onroad tires (4.5" diameter)...all numbers courtesy of the rcca gear calculator mentioned earlier...also, i found they do make a 17 low, so you could also have 17/20

this setup should work on either LM1 or 2 since they use the same clutchbell anyway, be hard to fit with the gs 21 though (without drilling holes)...there is room to play with the adjustable motor mounts, since you can turn either the plates or the blocks (or both) around to move the engine forward or backward...

note for kirk and anybody else interested: a 10mm thick flywheel (ofna 3 shoe, most everything else not for kyosho) will also fit right with a single speed setup and an italian style engine (not os) mounted as you would mount an os (with the plates turned around)...this is how my engine is mounted to make this work

i will post a pic of the setup tomorrow but here are the parts i used:

picco 21
BSW-22 flywheel (14mm thick)
39666-05 (KYOC2936) superten clutch bell
39666-16L (KYOC4804) 16T first gear
39666-19H (KYOC4817) 19T second gear
KYOC2990 KC-45 hd clutch (narrowed to roughly 8mm with a palm sander and 100 grit paper, could also use one of the vespel clutches for inferno (10mm thick) or superten (8mm thick)
stock GT-30/GTW-20 pilot shaft (shortened on the nut part by 2mm using dremel and file, could also use the superten 2 speed pilot shaft but it's aluminum, i like steel betta)
5x8mm bearings

i also picked up some KYOC4222/92741 extra-hard clutch springs...these are the blue ones, should be helpful during "stage two" 19/26 with 46t second gear spur (or 17/26 if i can fit a 44t gear, the kyosho fantom has one that looks kinda promising)...those two vespel clutches are the same price, the superten one looks like a direct fit actually...they are $40 though, i think the kc-45 shoes will do okay considering it seems like most of the racers stick with those (with the blue springs) even with the 2.5-3hp engines and big ass tires...a 3 shoe couldn't hurt though, i could see setting up some real craziness if i had the dinero for all the parts..ehe

edit: da pic, i will get a better one later but this will give you the idea...note the bell is hanging kinda cockeyed because it only has 2 bearings in it, with a flanged one at the back it should have the perfect amount of overlap between bell and flywheel, with the teeth lining up perfectly flush at the front

http://***********/gp20/misc/stageone.jpg

Redfox

07-02-2002, 11:24 PM

Yeah when i get time, i might have a go at makin my own bumper outta acrylic... i was actually prolly gonna make it out of aluminium, especially since that doesn't crack as easy as acrylic. Although i may need to buy the aluminium, whereas last time i checked i i had lotsa pieces of thick acrylic in the garage. In fact now that i think about it i have lotsa pieces of stainless steel lying around too... hrmmmmm eeeeeexxcellent...

My pipe is very shiny and beautiful now, and i did away with those clear cable ties that hold the rubber angle joint for the manifold and pipe and i put on some stainless steel hose clamp things... you know the ones where you screw it and it tightens up? And i spent a bit of time polishing them so it all looks very shhhhmick now! :D

Unobjectionable

07-03-2002, 01:13 AM

acrylic is not lexan aka polycarbonate, i doubt that would hold up too well, the real deal is much more impact resistant...you want to have some flexibility too, otherwise it will be like having a shovel mounted on the front of your car...ahaha very mad max though, sharpen that sucker up and watch the fun

the only real point of the front bumper is to protect the body though, so if you want to make one you should keep that in mind...ideally you would want a pretty thick plate that lines up just behind the bottom of your body all the way around, as light as possible to keep from messing up the handling, and with the foam mounted on it and trimmed perfectly so it fits right against the inside front part of the body, so that the whole thing supports the front section of the body and keeps it from folding up if the nose hits the ground (or another car or solid objects in general) and cracking in the nose or front wheelwells...

the closer you could come to that ideal the better (for them pricey bodies) but in the real world, you can also just reinforce the body...for an offroad car i would use duct tape around the bottom of the body and wheel wells, maybe a strip of thin fiberglass or carbon fiber (ehehe) attached the length of the hood...and rubber grommets (dunno what they call em in oz) to mount the body on the posts...the body would still get beat up, but shouldn't crack...

Redfox

07-03-2002, 04:31 AM

Oh dear... heheh i went away and started work and hadn't read your post yet bukkake!! Lol... well hrmmm now i suppose i got myself a pretty useless stainless steel bumper!! lol!!

I found myself a perfect sized piece of 1.2mm stainless steel plate... then i traced the plastic bumper onto it, took about 1.5 - 2cm off the front so it fits under the body and then i got to work with my angle grinder and in about 40mins i had myself a really cool bumper shaped plate... then i drilled all the mounting holes for under the front part of the chassis, and holes for mounting the foam bumper onto the bumper... then i polished it and it looks super shhmick!

To tell you the truth it's not that much heavier than the plastic onroad bumper and it has a slight amount of flex (about as much as a 1.2mm thick stainless plate can have)... i am very proud of it!

I have made the front short so that the foam bumper can overhang and take the actual impact (hopefully there shouldn't be an impact!)...

I am gonna make an acrylic brace for the top so that i can use it to clamp the foam down... it's so that the foam doesn't get ripped up the top...

Ummm so yeah... anywayz i might not use it all the time, but it certainly will look cool!! It would be a shame to scratch it =[

Me and my mate took our cars out today to run at the carpark of an oval nearby... he's got a spanish 1/7th rally car... i did lotsa highspeed runs and the engine worked out really well and didn't stall for a long time... heheh he jumped his off an embankment (i have jumped this embankment before with a lot of success) and his nose dug in and fully bent the front of his chassis!! Looks very very nasty!

Oh i forgot to add that one reason i want this bumper is to prevent myself from snapping the front sus arms again.. it gets annoying... also, the thing about this stainless plate bumper is that i have to have the foam mounted on it and over hanging the front cos it has the potential to do some serious damage to someones leg... hehe most likely mine... so i am going off to make the foam bumper now!

I'll see if i can get some pics of the bumper sometime... :D

Unobjectionable

07-03-2002, 06:22 AM

that sounds pretty good actually, i was more concerned the acrylic would explode on the first curb check ehehe

Redfox

07-03-2002, 08:29 AM

Lol... this wouldn't explode... this would take ya foot off!! Infact i just figured out that the foam bumper i made overhangs the stainless bumper by only 6mm... so tomorrow i'm gonna grind off about another 1cm off the front of the bumper... then the bumper foam would take more of an impact... i'm also gonna make an acrylic plate to put over the top of the foam to help it stay on the stainless bumper...
cutting the foam is messy, but i clean it up on the angle grinder... which i also used to make the bumper!! thank god for angle grinders!!

Jimmy33

07-03-2002, 10:34 AM

the landmx 1 had the option for a rear exit exhaust does this fit on the landmax 2?

My foot is getting better and stop the steering problem happening again i am getting heavy duty servo horns

Unobjectionable

07-03-2002, 02:27 PM

that muffler has two little tabs on it, designed to mount to the inferno/LM1 rear bulkhead, but you could make a little "L" bracket/plate thingy to adapt it to mount to the 7.5/LM2s, sturdier that way anyway, one of my cars is set up like that...

http://***********/gp20/Calsonic/calskyline008.jpg

yes, i own the calsonic now, i been holding out on you guyth...i haven't touched it yet, the guy i bought it from (orig. owner, low miles!) fabbed the cool dual tips/brace system going on in the pic here

p.s. as a performance upgrade, it's not...for looks only

scroll up to see the 2 speed LM pic, i edited it in

SixVi6

07-03-2002, 06:32 PM

Very cool Unobjectionable.. that LM will just haul with that gearing.

I could not just let the LM2 sit there with a perfectly good hyper in there so I fueled it up and ran it late in the evening after it started to cool off. man.. these tires are not going to last a lot longer. This engine has sooo much sheer torque it lights up the slicks on the street in 90 deg weather with a 16t clutch bell. It still stalled once on me but I've yet to get the tunning down to where I'm used to it and was tinkering a bit too much. Its running great now but I still want to try the MC59 in there. hopfully I'll get to the LHS over the weekend and get some glow plugs.

eeek! this dynamite sport pipe is very loud with a real engine. It ws loud on the GS21 but not to the point where my ears would ring. This is nuts on the hyper. At idle its really loud and on the throttle I cna hear it way down the street. Mabey the LHS still has one of those older .21 CVEC pipes on sale still. the only probem is gold or puprle was all they had. so its Bling Bling gold or HPI purple tough choice. :confused:

Unobjectionable

07-03-2002, 06:43 PM

ehehehe...

put that 18t back on! it will prolly still launch with some wheelspin

i would go for the gold pipe, at least it will match...i would have to easy-off the purple one before ever bringing it in the house ehehe

and that engine too...glad its working out though, now i can buy one, stripped and polished baybee

SixVi6

07-03-2002, 07:15 PM

Yeah engine nut and I think that it was just a freak problem. He said he had an expensive itialian race engine that he bought that had the exact same problem with the rear bearing and it happens once in a while. Its not comon at all but it is really frustrating.
Also I was talking to bill, the cool older RC freak that helped me with the hyper, about how I could have run that much fuel through the Hyper and it still be tight. He said the problem was it was too rich and was never run at a constant temp for long enough because it kept stalling after just 30sec to a couple minutes of running but its good now.

lol.. loud pipes save lives.. yeah but what about my hearing.. lol.. I may just go gold CVEC or deanno whatever I get and do the same to the hyper's heat sink. I have too many colors on my LM2. sheesh.. one servo horn is red the other is blue Al, the steering rod is purple, the engine is puple with a blue silicone boot, and the suspension plate and center plate is gold! eeek!! I think i need eleminate a few colors and I think purple will be the first to go.

I'll work up to the 18t.. its at 16t now probably I'll try out the 17t next and finally the 18t if there are any tires left by then. Now I'm going to load up the camaro and take the RC's out and give them a workout. I think I'll get a hyper for the t-maxx also after Unlimited Eng. releases the 1/8 diffs for the t-maxx. Hopfully soon the maxxx will have a bullet proof driveline.

SixVi6

07-03-2002, 10:33 PM

well I took the A3 plug out of the hyper. It really didn't like that plug at all. It had high end problems. I replaced it with an old used 59 that was sitting in my box and it runs great now. I got the hyper tuned quite well now. Its a pain though. a lot harder than the GS21 to tune. I started from the high needle and got it runninig good at high speed, then moved to the 2nd needle, and finally the low end. I got it tuned pretty good now. Its still a bit rich on the mid and low end and it still has lots of low and mid power. It just lights up the tires just off idle but my exhaust is still painfully loud.. I have to change that for sure.

Unobjectionable

07-03-2002, 11:22 PM

too loud? THATS CRAZY TALK...ehehe

i figured that mc 59 would work better, seems to be the plug of choice for the hyper anyway, works great in everything i have tried one in

now for some more smoky burnouts in the garage...

p.s. don't get too crazy with the midrange needle, easy to throw things outta whack

Redfox

07-04-2002, 01:22 AM

Well i finished my bumper... i must admit, it's pretty heavy compared to the stock one now because i put a 6mm thick acrylic top plate on it... hehehehhe!! but i tell you what... it's solid and the front end looks like it will take a severe beating... If i was gonna have a seriously big prang with the LM, this is the bumper i would want on the front!

I will see if i can get a digital camera to take a foto anytime soon...

p.s. i know drilling into stainless with an ordinary drill bit doesn't do much for it, but now i am less 2 good quality drills because i couldn't be bothered getting proper ones!! Silly me....

Jimmy33

07-04-2002, 12:57 PM

Thanks - how would you get the exhaust from the engine to the exhaust as the suspention mount is in the way?

Also does the engine noise get louder, softer or is there no change with the rear pipe.

Unobjectionable

07-04-2002, 09:36 PM

theres a couple parts to it...a manifold that goes straight back from the engine (for GS 21 or OS only, have to buy that too), a little aluminum pipe that is more or less straight (has a little jig in it, comes with the muffler kit) and joins the manifold to the muffler, it goes through the rear shock tower (thats what the hole is for ehehehe)

it's quieter i'd say, due to the 2 little baffle things that go inside the muffler, could probably take those out as the thing is hopeless as a proper "tuned pipe" anyway

GT-2/KYOC4678
http://www.gpmd.com/images/kyoc4678.JPG
the manifold is GT-7/KYOC4580

better pic of it installed

http://***********/gp20/Calsonic/calskyline011.jpg

Jimmy33

07-05-2002, 06:03 AM

Is that on a Landmax 2 or 1?

Redfox

07-05-2002, 10:55 AM

Wow! bukkake where did you get those meaty lookin sus arms!? That looks like a cross LM1 and LM2... well whatever it is, it looks very cool!! :D

gonna bed now... have to be up nice n early to meet up with theo and rip up the castle hill track!! hehehe nite!

Unobjectionable

07-05-2002, 12:32 PM

that there be an original super eight...basically an inferno DX II with smaller wheels/tires and a sweet Group A body (959, calsonic skyline or quattro v8)...these are where the "GT" parts came from originally...these cars are about 1.75" wider than a landmax due to the a-arms and the wheels are 10mm bigger, so LM bodies won't fit...

after this was the esprit gp-20, which was the landmax before they decided to call it that...they made 3 cool bodies for the esprit, all of which also fit any LM perfectly...R32 skyline (3434 has the only one i know of GRRR eheh), alfa 155 DTM and mercedes 190 C DTM...

then came the landmax...and the rest is history..ehehe

so anyway, that is also how it is mounted on the LM1...the LM2 LOOKS like it has enough room in the rear shock tower for the coupler pipe to pass through but its hard to tell from the pics on kyosho's site

p.s. see that engine? thats the OLD gs 21 head...and you thought the newer ones were bad...

ZzS

07-05-2002, 03:11 PM

Well, I think the GS21R is bad. First I lost the needle valve screw, and now the crankshaft. I was tightening the screw at the clutch-side of the engine and it snap right inside the crankshaft. So if I can´t get it out with a drill I´ll need to order that crankshaft from the hobbyshop.

I thought I would run my LM all the time on this summer but since now I have run it ONLY ONCE!! One month flew away. I´m totally sick´n tired to wait the hobbyshop to order those broken parts from the neighborlands store (which never has any parts I think because ordering lasts at least two weeks). So everytime in the future I run the car something will broke and... so on.

If I must buy a crankshaft, which would it be: the old (I have the old GS21R) one 6520-04B or the new one 6520-41. The newer has a different design (which delivers more power?) than the older one. Does the newer one fit to the old GS21R? They have the same price so if it doesn´t matter which one I get, I would go with the newer one. Any suggestions?

Unobjectionable

07-05-2002, 07:06 PM

good god, what are you guys doin...snappin steel like toothpicks, i'm picturing a race of australian and finnish supermen playing with toy cars all day...ehehe

you can get that piece out, they have all kinds of screw extractors at the hardware store if you can't drill it out...if you have a reversing drill you might be able to drill it backwards and get the piece to back itself out...

Pr0k

07-05-2002, 09:03 PM

OK my ebay specials arrived today! hahaha it is like christmas
I will get some pics up soon!
edit ok lets try this
http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/5/5928/folders/19360/134330IMG0028.jpg

hey it works
http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/5/5928/folders/19360/134333bodyon.jpg whoops!

beater body but very clean
http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/5/5928/folders/19360/134337IMG0030.jpg

Pr0k

07-05-2002, 10:58 PM

http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/5/5928/folders/19360/134375IMG0039.jpg

nice p4 too! which i will pull for future use with the 2 speed
http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/5/5928/folders/19360/134379IMG0036.jpg

I have a new in box OS RF-B to drop in for originality

Redfox

07-06-2002, 05:40 AM

Racing at castle hill today was great fun! In the end theo couldn't run his LM cos the button in the heatsink was stripped and he didn't have a replacement... so i was running along side a GS Storm Pro with a kick arse 2.7hp racing engine.. hehehe my car seemed to stand still for most of the time!!
It ran ok for a while then i couldn't get it started for ages... we found out that it was the plug that had died, so theo gave me an A8 plug and it ran a helluva lot better... i think the A5 that i was running before wasn't hot enough and that was why i had to run it leaner or something like that? What is the stock Kyosho plug the equivalent of?? an A5 i thought... anywayz what plugs do you guys recommend for the GS-21R?? i never knew before how much diff a plug could make...
Then after a while i stripped the centre spur gear... =[ i think the loctite in the engine screws broke down due to excessive heat or something... whatever it was, my engine must've shifted and then i stripped the spur gear pretty bad... we tried to remesh it and got a few more runs out of it... so i just gotta get myself a new gear now...
Anywayz it was very satisfying driving on the castle hill track cos it's a fun track and has a few jumps that the LM can handle nicely... although i did bust the front of my body =[
:D

SixVi6

07-07-2002, 12:12 AM

hehe.. I only with I had a class to race somebody with my LM2. I've taken mine to the on road track during practice and shown the 1/10 cars what the Landmax could do but thats all the racing I've been able to do.

For glow plugs I like the McCoy mc-59's in just about everything. Yes Glow plugs make a huge difference.

Todays news.. I bought a CVEC and did a lot of tinkering and I've found this one to be fastest with the piston and spring removed. lol.. I guess it kinda defeats the purpose of the pipe like that but oh well.. it looks wicked and sounds great. Its still loud with the guts pulled out but does not have the painfull idle and annoying wide open sound of the dynamite sport pipe so I'm happy. Ohh and the LHS acutually had 3 colors to choose from so my choices were pimp daddy gold, HPI purple, or black. so yeah I bought the black for $52 not bad at all. I'll post some pics a bit later.

The Hyper continues to either be the most wonderfull engine built or the spawn of satan depending on its mood.. its sooo very pickey on the tuning but its so stinkin powerfull.

Dang Pr0k both are great finds and appear to be in excelent shape.

cheeyta

07-07-2002, 12:27 AM

I am planning on ordering a landmax 2, Jr xr2(not enough cash for the fm version), a strong steering servo (at least 80 oz in.), and a fuel filter. Very soon is there any thing else i shoud get to get up and running I have the basics(glow ignitor, fuel bottle ectera)? And is there any weak spots I should upgrade first?

Pr0k

07-07-2002, 12:33 AM

52 bucks? not bad at all, did they have a large supply of the large cvecs? None of the LHS's I have been to carry cvec at all and all I see online is the shorties. I will be looking for a couple for my new projects eventually. I like the sound of the cvec I have on the mp6, loud but not annoying as you said.

SixVi6

07-07-2002, 01:33 AM

cheeyta

congrats on your decision to buy an LM2. This is the place for questions on the LM's. really there is nothing you should ned to upgrade on the LM2 initialy. later on better tires, shocks, engine and such can be bought but out of the box its very tough and needs nothing. I was shocked when I got mine up and running and ran it a full gallon and didn't strip, break, or bend anything. that second gallon though.. well a steep curb jumped out in front of my LM2 when I was experimenting with a powerfull engine and an 18t clutchbell at high speeds 40+ mph causing some good damage.. so keep it off curbs at mach 10 and it will be fine.

Check out my LM2 site also..

My Landmax 2 site (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/index.html)

I have lots of pics of the building of my LM2 phases, the complete instructions scanned for the kit and the engine, and various other pics and scans if yo have any other questions this is the place to be!

Pr0k
No they have a short supply of them. Only 3, I bought the black one.. they sold the purple one to a guy there just as I was leaving so just the gold one remians. They are pushing to get rid of them because they just got a bunch of the new style ones which I don't like either. Last week the old style was selling for just under $60, this weekend $52 on the blowout price rack. I'm thinking the last one will be gone before monday at this rate.

John

Unobjectionable

07-07-2002, 01:47 AM

yeah, both cars are pretty competent out of the box, but the LM2 does seem to be a bit stouter...thicker chassis, nice chunky a-arms, HD clutch and better (though still cheap) plastic shocks...all you should have to buy is some fresh fuel and a THROTTLE RETURN SPRING (sorry, i am required by law to put that in all caps)...they are great fun, i think you'll enjoy it...

http://***********/gp20/misc/optional-not-included-parts.jpg
(had to beg the old bastard for this pic)

SixVi6

07-07-2002, 02:22 AM

80301 fuel warning lamp? interesting. I like that Alfa DTM body.

cheeyta
yes Unobjectionable is right THROTTLE RETURN SPRING is required. if one of these gets away from you and cruises off at full throttle it could do some serious damage to you or others.

sheesh.. I edit posts a lot.

Unobjectionable

07-07-2002, 02:43 AM

i guess you just weren't cool unless you had the low fuel warning light and a LAPBOY (always did like that name)

interesting side note: i spoke with a hobby shop in the uk last week about ordering one of the mercedes dtm bodies listed in their distributors stock...the guy informed me it was JUST discontinued...i will write back and tell him i'll take the alfa instead...

chris - MC-59 for the gs 21...works nice and fits the head/combustion chamber perfectly, i checked

Jimmy33

07-07-2002, 06:04 AM

cheeyta - with the servos you should get two heavey duty servos because the throttle does the brake as well and a standard servo is not strong enough.

Also how on earth do you fit a THROTTLE RETURN SPRING

Pr0k

07-07-2002, 03:11 PM

Ok landmax fans, just in case you think Me and Bukkake like The
GP-20'shere are some links to our collection

http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/5/5928/folders/23189/135690landmaxconvention2.jpg

http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/5/5928/folders/23189/135687Landmaxconvention.jpg

We had no room for the infernos! ehehe

3434

07-07-2002, 03:23 PM

What is that body to the right??

I finally got a chance to go through this thing and was trying to figure out who this catbox guy is. LOL

Pr0k

07-07-2002, 03:36 PM

That is an unpainted Monte Carlo from Parma ehehe the guy said it was a Pontiac stock car! I woulda been pissed but it came with that sweet Espirit chasis. I am gonna look for another body that thing is too nice to run, hopefully i can find one of those rare old bodies on ebay or the boards.

Unobjectionable

07-07-2002, 04:01 PM

LM2 THROTTLE RETURN SPRING pic courtesy of sivi616 or whatever the hell his name is...

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_38.jpg

MORE TOYS!

my babies:
http://***********/gp20/misc/collectards01.jpg

landmax body next to supereight:

http://***********/gp20/misc/collectards02.jpg

landmax body ON supereight (aka extreme pimping):

http://***********/gp20/misc/collectards03.jpg

3434

07-07-2002, 04:14 PM

You probably wont believe me but I had two of those bodys. I had pirate 10 (shudder) that I was going to use it on. But I sold it before I ever ran it. The place where I race/bash on Wednesday nights the guys use them on there RC-10t's. So I had no problem getting rid of them

3434

07-07-2002, 04:16 PM

How do you get the pictures so big??? You can hardly see the things I send.

Pr0k

07-07-2002, 04:29 PM

Actually I make the images smaller in order to be kind to the bandwidth impaired. I dont do anything special, I do use a decent digital camera 2.3 megapixels at highest quality then crop and compress in photoshop. BTW if you run acrosss any of them bodies again..... I would sure be interested.:D :p :D

3434

07-07-2002, 04:48 PM

I guess there not available any more?? I'll ask those guys this week if anybody has one. They don't run them that much any more.

french-fry

07-07-2002, 06:07 PM

Any of you guys with LM2s looked at this site. They have a bunch of 7.5 parts, but I'm not sure which ones fit on the LM2. Specifically, are the shock towers the same? Or will they at least fit under the LM body?

I'm not even sure they are a dealer, but whatever.

Happy Time Hobby (http://www.happytimehobby.homestead.com)

P.S. I'll have more videos for you guys later today.

Oh, and do you guys know of any good places to get rims for my LM? I want some aluminum "bling, bling" ones but I can't seem to find any.

french-fry

07-07-2002, 07:48 PM

Okay, here are the vids:

Video 1 #2 (http://home.attbi.com/~veloroute/101-0141_MVI.AVI)

and

Video 2 #2 (http://home.attbi.com/~veloroute/101-0142_MVI.AVI)

-Alex

One more thing, what is the difference between the "new" cvec pipes and the "old" ones. I found some different ones at www.nitrohouse.com that are different from all of the ones at tower. I seem to recall someone saying that the ones at tower are the "new" ones.

Unobjectionable

07-08-2002, 06:51 AM

3434 - pr0k is talking about the car being too nice to run, not the body...his esprit came with that one, parma chevy lumina i think (he is senile)...think he meant he wants one of the original esprit bodies for it...that esprit came from kyosho as rolling chassis, no body or engine included though they did give you a free front bumper and rear exhaust (such a deal!)...

i put the pics on www.*********** ...if you send me pictures i can put them there and we can show them here without using the forum's attachment system, don't worry about pics being too big, i can crop and resize etc., they just have to fit in my mailbox (about 4MB free at the moment) landmax@*********** ...offer of a big wet kiss for a nice pic of the skinny calsonic body is still in effect

p.s. they changed bukkake to ecatbox without telling me, so i made a new nick before i figured out what they were up to

alex - eheheh i like! the 2 speed definitely has the cool factor, it's fun to make it shift right when you pass an innocent bystander, they can never figure it out

i think the 7.5 shock towers are taller, to maintain the same angle with the longer 7.5 a-arms...but if they were mounted to an LM2 i bet one could run long shocks all the way around instead of the optional mediums the manual mentions...total overkill of course since the body limits suspension movement far more than any shocks would...but it would look cool

the cvec thing is weird...nitrohouse (and ace-hobbies) show the 170 which is the "normal" one...tower has the 165 listed for cars now, thats the shorty (and looks a LOT shorter in the pic)...but they also have the 170H (.30 helicopter) listed, which is the 170 with an extra (removable) piece in the middle, for the same price they used to have for the 170 ($60)

http://www.gpmd.com/images/cveg1022.JPG

cvec still has the regular 170 listed on their website, so i dunno why tower has forgotten it exists...

i would also be down for a set of bling bling billet rims, we just need to find a willing (and cheap) cnc machinist...i had planned to approximate it with some fresh GT-52s and some of that fancy alclad paint (for display porpoises)...there was a guy around here named "darkwraith" who was willing to make anything, but he seems to have disappeared...

Jimmy33

07-08-2002, 09:12 AM

OK I want more power what engine should I get - I can get OS engines easy and how much should I spent - I want to kill those 1/10 scale cars even more than the standard enging and 2 speed does. - I want to keep the 2 speed - so what else wouldf I need apart from the enging - I want it to be a pull start engine!

jeroen

07-08-2002, 12:11 PM

Hi french- fry nince video's, but the previous video,s the second third and fourth didn,t work at my comp why is this.

What kind of engine do you have in your landmax.

Pr0k

07-08-2002, 05:09 PM

Alex: I like that video dude!

3434: Yes i was refering to an espirit body, like Bukkake said, I am so confused some times I don't know which way is up! I know
what I like though.

Jimmy you should be able to blow those little 1/10 scale cars away with the gs21. The OS RG is a nice engine, but kinda pricey.
The Pico and Ofna P4 are also choices I have seen.

french-fry

07-08-2002, 05:18 PM

yah, sorry about that, I had to delete them to make room for the new ones.

I am currently running the stock GS21R with 20% blue thunder and the two-speed. (Yah, it kicks butt!).

Bukkake - have you tried a commercial machine shop...like someone out of the yellow pages...or even online. I just searched for machine shop on yahoo, and there were a bunch that came up.

I am also looking for aluminum a-arms, those are actually more important than the rims.

SixVi6

07-08-2002, 06:28 PM

Man this thread cooks..

Fry.. the hop ups on that web site you listed above. the chassis will work only if you have the single speed or feel confident enough to drill and countersink new holes in the expensive chassis for the front center bulkhead mount. Unobjectionable is right on wiht the shock towers. they will fit but you would need new shocks and they would probably be so tall they would stick way out of the body. also the body mounts would have to be redone. everythign else will work fine on an LM2 except for the nylon arms shown on the next page. Love that 2 speed in those vids. Noplace makes aluminum rims or arms for the LM's. Why do you want aluminum arms and wheels anyhow? Unless they are made of really high quality 7075 aluminum they will bend really eazy and either way just add a ton of weight.

Here is a pic of the new style CVEC pipes.
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/pics/cvecz135b.jpg

my LM2 is eating my front center drive cup. the center drive bone is sawing into the cup. strange because none of the other drive cups show this kind of wear. I'm guessing a bit of grit got in there and wore it away. I'll have pics of it and the CVEC pipe and probably more in a few. I snaged the good camera to get some close ups.

SixVi6

07-08-2002, 07:29 PM

Ok here are a couple pics.

First of the CVEC on the LM2 (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_42.jpg)

and next of the sawed drive cup.

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_43.jpg

Looks like its time for center universals.

french-fry

07-08-2002, 07:53 PM

I guess I was sort of going for the look more than anything else. Hmmm....

Hey six, what do you think of your tmaxx. Is it still fun even with your landmax? I kinda want to get something that I can run everywhere (err.... destroy) since my landmax won't exactly take me on the real rough stuff. Although I am very pleased that it can handle my beat-up street (my street sucks...it's even hard for my real car to handle some of the bumbs).

Unobjectionable

07-08-2002, 09:46 PM

i would take a monster pirate or something over a tmaxx, its neat and all but too much of a money pit to have it be halfway serious...maybe vi6 will make you a deal on his .21 maxx...eheh KIDDING

you could always jack up the LM2, run the 7.5 arms and outdrives etc, with the tmaxx wheel adapters, and an 11 tooth clutchbell, and have the first 7.5 NITRO CRUSHER (with billet wheels!)

or not...

btw, the billet wheels are a catch 22...they look awesome, but you can only really use em for display, or they get beat to hell and look like crap...nylon with some sort of metallized paint is the best way to go...the cheap chrome in a can actually looks pretty good and might even last longer if it was clearcoated with polyurethane...there are some optional plastic wheels for the landmax said alternately to be "chrome" and "silver" but i think they look more "silvery plastic" (pic below)...the ones on the calsonic are plated nylon, they should do that with the newer one-piece wheels...

http://www.gpmd.com/images/kyoc6419.JPG

john - car is looking good...i think my monitor is messed up though, theres a big purple spot in the middle of the pic...ehehehe

definitely weird how that dogbone has machined such a pretty half circle in there...i'm assuming it's a new bone? maybe there is still some tweak in the chassis, i could see excessive/uneven front kick-up causing that maybe...

SixVi6

07-09-2002, 12:08 AM

The chassis is brand new and everything lines up perfectly from what I can see. I asked good ol' bill at work and he said it may have been the fact that I replaced the bone but not the front cup and didn't clean them well enough. He also said once just the right piece of hard and gritty sand gets in there it will work its way into the metal it will grind it away like that. I've also heard the abrasive sand issue from Robin, the creator of the SuperMaxx and he even goes so far as to look at worn ones that get send back under a microscope! I'll probably just get center universals. But bill has a tweak board and wants to check it out tomorow and may have a replacement outdrive laying around also He wants to get a chance to run it now that the engine is running rather well. It should be fun. I'm going to ahve to bug him about the C4 he has laying around. I soooo want the engine.

Fry.. T-maxx's are a ton of fun stock out of the box and I love mine but to make them fast it costs $$$, lots of it.. also since you now have a .21 powered RC I doubt a stock t-maxx will be all that fun. If I were to do a t-maxx over right now I'd build exactly what I have now.. but instead of starting from a breand new t-maxx I'd just start from scratch and build one from SuperMaxx parts and all aftermarket parts and save lots of money but still spend a lot in the process.
hmm.. you could try the Kyosho Mad Force. many of the driveline parts and the hardware will be exactly the same as the LM2. Heck its even got a GS21 lol. It might be something worth looking into.
Unobjectionable is right on the aluminum wheels. if they are made of really good aluminum and have a good deal of tire and thick foam wraped around them they will work fine. That is why many of the monster trucks can run aluminum wheels. the thick foam and tire protects them from rim damage but on a lower profile wheel there is next to no tire or foam to protect the rim and they get bent eazy. I've seen the HCR Touring car wheels get flatspotted on a smooth parking lot in one heat just from bouncing around on the pavement but have seen t-maxxes get 40ft of air and landon one wheels and not have any damage at all.

John

french-fry

07-09-2002, 12:31 AM

What do you mean front and rear kick-up isn't standard?

Yah, so I was out jumpin the landmax today (I think I watched too many of those tmaxx videos). It actually handled my little ply-wood ramp quite well. But as usual, I went too far. I didn't hit the jump quite straight and the car twisted and landed on only one of the rear wheels, rocked to the second one and then the force of the landing bent the back of the chassis up and shot the nylon nuts that hold the shocks into outer space.

Yay! Another summer project *sarcasm.*

I better get a nice monster truck to quench my thirst for air (maybe a full-on plane would be better).

Anyway...do you guys have any recomendations on a new chassis. Preferably something cheaper than tower's "low low" ;) price of $38.99.

I think I have a new slogan: if it ain't broke, i'll break it, then fix it, because I have plenty of time, because its summer.

-Alex

Jimmy33

07-09-2002, 07:36 AM

I am running a standard engine GS21R - with a rear exhaust if it come today! with a two speed tranny and a tunned pipe. My mate has a Tamiya TG10 or something with a 15 sized engin - you ure I can kick his but! :D :p

Unobjectionable

07-09-2002, 05:36 PM

eheh i'd say thats a safe bet...and if he manages to pass you, you don't have to wait for a chance to pass him back, just run him over...

alex - there is a seller on ebay called "teambluestar" that sells their own brand of 7.5 chassis, they look decent and usually go about $25, i doubt they have the extra two holes pre-drilled for the GTW-20 though...

i know there are a lot of companies that sell various 7.5 chassis braces...i have heard the best ones are the type that tie the front and rear bulkheads directly to the center diff mount, not the kyosho/fioroni torque rod deals...might be worth checking out for serious abuse...

as far as a (relatively) cheap basher, i would say the rc10gt...yes its a stadium truck, but they are also near indestructible and perfect for big air and bashing...not to mention anything you do break can be replaced easy and CHEAP at almost any hobby shop...that was my first gas car, and my first run was 30mph into a steel 55 gallon drum...no damage...now i turn on the radio first

SixVi6

07-09-2002, 10:58 PM

Team Blue Star 7.5 chassis.. (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1747491164)

Found it! the team blue star chassis..

http://www.teambluestar.com/mp75chassisblue2.jpg

No holes for the 2 speed though.. :(

hehe.. I began to de-anno some of the parts on my LM2. the only thing left to do is the heat sink on the hyper. I'll probably leave the front and rear hinge pin braces as is in the gold color until I have to take them off. ohh and I have to get some different colored fuel lines.. I'm sooo sick of the yellow lines I have now.

Jimmy33

07-10-2002, 11:07 AM

Unobjectionable - does this mean the landmax is a 1/8th scale car not a super eight? You were right I kicked my mates butt on the race track!

Unobjectionable

07-10-2002, 02:04 PM

eheheh cool...

the scale thing is funny, it's all open to interpretation... various "super ten" cars (kyosho FW-04, hpi SNR, tamiya tgx or whatever its called) have the same measurements as a proper 8th scale car (serpent, bmt etc) and the landmax is bigger than either, so "super eight" as a generic term is about right...but kyosho also had the cars they originally called "super eight" (the 959, calsonic etc) which are wider and longer (little bigger than ofna gtp size)...

all rather confusing, especially when you consider that the scale really varies by body, in one of those pics from the other day you can see the r34 skyline body and the toyota corolla body, both landmax, but the toyota body is noticeably bigger so it can use the same wheelbase as the skyline body, which in the real world, is a much larger car than a toyota corolla...ie: a landmax with the toyota body next to the 959 would be closer in scale than the r34 landmax next to the 959...

did any of that make sense? the long and short of it is, the manufacturers tend to make these categories based on what chassis they are using, rather than the actual scale of the finished product

edit: here (http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/5/5928/folders/23189/135687Landmaxconvention.jpg) is the pic i mean, from left to right in the back row, corolla, skyline, escort, lm ST

Unobjectionable

07-10-2002, 06:07 PM

another shot of the ghettomaster (http://***********/gp20/misc/collectards06.jpg)

closeup of the r34 (http://***********/gp20/misc/collectards05.jpg)

closeup of the toyota (http://***********/gp20/misc/collectards04.jpg)

calsonic box scan 1 (http://***********/gp20/Calsonic/calsonic1.jpg)

calsonic box scan 2 (http://***********/gp20/Calsonic/calsonic2.jpg)

calsonic box scan 3 (http://***********/gp20/misc/supereights01.jpg) (super eight bodies)

improved "optional not included parts" scan (http://***********/gp20/misc/optional-not-included-parts.jpg) (from the gp-20 box)

SixVi6

07-10-2002, 06:48 PM

lol.. the ghettomaster..

well good ol' bill had my LM2 overnight and I picked it up at work today. He loves it as a general fun RC and is probably going to buy one himself. I have a front universal for now that is one of his spares until I get my backordered one from tower. He had it on a tweak board.. something that I know nothing about using but he said it looks no worse than his buggies. he did say that the front torque rod was just toughing the bone in the front and that may be causing the wearing. all I have to do is just take a bit off the ball end and it will no longer rub.

hehe.. yeah the LM series is huge. they dwarf all the 1/8 on roads I've seen and with the body on it even makes my t-maxx look like a stadium truck.

edit... my neighbor gave me a steel spur gear.. he said its for a Kyosho 7.5 but after I looked at it there is no way. I don't know if its even for a Kyosho at this point. Its got one large center hole and four small holes that look to be where the screws attach and its got 46 teeth. ehhh... I'll just take a pic.

OK here is the pic.
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/spur.jpg

I'm thinking its an MP6 steel spur gear but I don't know for sure.

Unobjectionable

07-10-2002, 07:15 PM

yeah thats an MP-5/6 gear...i did get that 44t LM2 spur from tower and noticed it has contours, like a little snout etc. similar to the stock LM1 and inferno dx spurs...there is a little hub for those cars to allow use of the flat steel gears, but i dunno what the part number is for the 7.5 version (if it is even different)...gimme a minute on that one and i'll see if i can find it...

one thing about steel spurs is that they will tear up the stock clutchbells...have to use em with the hard steel ones

edit: here's the steel 7.5 gear, looks like it bolts right to the diff, no hub thingy required

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=KYOC5939&P=7

another note: found out the cool three shoe blue anodized aluminum clutch is a kanai 2 part, tower still doesn't have it listed yet though (IFW136)

Jimmy33

07-11-2002, 03:19 PM

I need to get new suspention - any tips on what to get I don't want to pay OTT for esample £44 for the big turbo shocks I think is to much.
Also what are the best bodies made for the landmax by any company?

Pr0k

07-11-2002, 05:38 PM

Well you are severely hampered in what bodies willl fit the landmax properly, so far all I have been able to find are made by kyosho. Parma makes a few 1/8 scale bodies as well as ofna, but I have yet to be able to determine if these will actually fit. As far as shocks are concerned I have replaced those wonderful stock Kyosho plastic shocks with Offna shocks, the lower ball ends are larger so you can use the original ball ends from the kyosho shocks.

SixVi6

07-11-2002, 07:24 PM

:mad:
well I've had it. The Hyper .21 let me down again and for the last time. It was running fine over the weekend, still stalling once in a while but it was still liveable and yesterday bill said it was being very pickey and would only stay running when it was really rich. today I had the afternoon off from work and ran my LM2 against my friends cars. The Hyper would not stay running at all rich or lean. Bill was there and even he was at a loss. He said it seems to have a huge air leak coming from somewhere. So I raced home and droped the GS21r into the LM2 and went back out and ran it without a single problem for the rest of the day. I refuse to take the hyper apart again and am not going to waste any more time with it anymore. would it be worth it to buy a good carb for the engine. Everybody says its the carb. so an OS 20E carb which I've been told is a direct drop in and is $70. $35 more and I could buy a whole new Hyper. Should I sell/trade off the Hyper .21 and buy a real engine or go for the OS carb? ehhh.. we'll see..

SixVi6

07-12-2002, 06:50 PM

well my LM2 will have the GS21 for a while longer. I'm going to buy an XTM 247 for the t-maxx and then I may try putting the carb from the Megatech .21 that is currently on the t-maxx on the Hyper and drop that on the LM2 or just run the Megatech .21 on the LM2 if I can. I may have a problem though because to get a .21 on a maxx you have to grind a bit off the end of the pilot shaft. the megatech's shaft may now be too short to fit the LM2's clutch setup. who knows.. I'll deal with that when I get to that point.

On a good note.. I got some Aluminum radio tray posts and a set of replacement outdrives along with a few other misc RC parts and supplies that I needed. hehe.. I love it... I order it form tower on wed morning and get the stuff in two days shipped by regular mail. Now I'm waiting for Hobby people get the 24.7's back in stock. grrr.. oh well.

Unobjectionable

07-13-2002, 07:27 PM

i think illinois is some kind of rc mecca...i have noticed a definite trend...people on ebay selling things i would like to have (or have liked enough to buy) seem to come mostly from IL...strange

i dunno what to tell you about that hyper...if you still want to sell it i'll take it...if you think it's worth more effort/money, might be worth trying the megatech carb just to see...i wouldn't pay $70 for a carb though..eheh

the megatech pilot shaft might be okay depending on flywheel, my "ebay picco" was cut for a tmaxx and is a little short for the 14mm one, but has plenty hanging out with the 10mm flywheel...

jimmy - yeah the kyosho bodies are by far the most detailed and realistic in my opinion...with this rally game thing becoming (hopefully) more popular, maybe there are/will be some good options for some less expensive "racing" type bodies...still not sure if those thunder tiger ones would fit, but they couldn't be TOO far off...we can pester zootalaws about that one

it has occurred to me to make some "bondo molds" of my bodies ala frankw in the hope of someday being able to make some reproductions...now that would be cool

as far as shocks, if you can find a good deal on some medium length buggy shocks, go for it...3mm mounting points top and bottom seem to be the almost universal standard, and you can always change the ball ends on the bottom for the kyosho plastic parts (BSW-31) if that becomes an issue

KIRK S. DECKER

07-13-2002, 08:06 PM

After seeing some of the details about the three speed from the mad force I am definitly considering adding it to my project car.
I do need clear blowups of the exploded diagram and a parts list for the three speed to determine what parts i can salvage from the lm1 two speed(which i have NIB, and hope I can use...or may sell it cheap) and what parts I may have to fabricate and machine myself to work. I suppose I could always buy the madforce instruction manual, but help from you guys would be great...

btw, bukkake I was wondering if the two speed bell from the GS
clutch 1/8 Sonic would be compatible with the lm1 or 2 two speed. The replaceable pinion gears (i have not researched what sizes these are available in yet) seem to be the same size (7mm thick) as kyosho ones and the bell itself should not need any modifications to fit on a standard three shoed flywheel (the sonic two speed uses a three shoed clucth)....any thoughts or comments.

also,I have found that the 17 tooth kyosho pinion is available from tower but no 20 (to make the 17/20 combo)...are you thinkiing it will come from the 20 used on the madforce?...also I think your right about the mad force bell being a good choice for the two speed..just hack the end off; alot less "modifications" needed than using the super ten bell. Ill need a closer look at the bell to be sure though.
Also how do you adjust a three speed tanny..from the pictures it looks like only the first/second gear "adjustment parts" are found.
Once again I thank you guys for any info and feedback!

Unobjectionable

07-13-2002, 08:50 PM

well heres the exploded view, many thanks to 3434 for the link to this very helpful site:

http://www.hobby1.com.br/vistaex.asp?kit=31221

and the parts list, i think everything is in there somewhere:

http://www.kyosho.com/cars/kyoc0521parts.html

it looks to be mostly a GTW-20 for 1st and 2nd gear, with a special longer center shaft and other mad force specific (MA) parts for the 3rd gear (mount, hub etc)...tower will have more info on all the component parts soon i am sure...i am also very curious about the MF clutch bell, its unclear how they fasten those two back teeth on in the pic, and they seem (from the diagram) to be included with the bell (which tower has listed at $25 or so currently)..even if the teeth used are not the superten ones, it could possibly be a very nice budget 17/20 bell depending on how that 14t first gear attaches (and if you could cut it off without affecting 2nd and 3rd eheh)

that gs bell sounds promising, let me know what you find out about it...one guy over at nitroreview is talking about using a mugen bell and centax type clutch...sounds interesting anyway

i kinda made a booboo with the 20t high, there is/was one...kyosho KYOC4744/SU-15 but they no longer make it...FORM does though, and even uses the same part numbers for all the SU parts...kinda hard to find though

as far as adjusting the 3 speed, i would guess it goes pretty much as normal, just with an extra 2nd gear..ehehe...probably dial 3rd out a little to ensure it doesn't shift early and be mistaken for 2nd until you get the 1-2 shift set properly...we will have to bug jeroen for some more info, hes been oddly quiet in this thread since he got his mad force...ehehee

Unobjectionable

07-13-2002, 09:55 PM

surgically enhanced version of the part we care about

http://***********/gp20/misc/madforce3speed.gif

occurred to me that the 3rd gear/hub assembly could probably be used as 2nd in a GT-30 setup fairly easily...but 40T second gear = 13/26 on the bell haha...i still might have to pick up a set of those GTW-20 gears, just to check out the interchangability factor

http://***********/gp20/misc/GTW20-2.jpg

Pr0k

07-13-2002, 09:56 PM

Finally wandered on over to the LHS and picked up a body reamer and some white paint to attempt repairs on the latest ebay car http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/5/5928/folders/23189/139933IMG0007.jpg

looks a little better nowhttp://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/5/5928/folders/23189/139934IMG0043.jpg

Hats off to Bukkake for the grommet idea. will prevent future damage hopefully
http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/5/5928/folders/23189/139937IMG0046.jpg

better look
http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/5/5928/folders/23189/139935IMG0047.jpg

KIRK S. DECKER

07-13-2002, 11:32 PM

BUKKAKE
The more I look at that diagram of the three speed the more I think it is possible to install it in place of the original gt 30(of course with some modifications)...I also think with the right tinkering that it can fit with in the normal sized center diff brace...I would hate to have to modify the cool kyosho aluminum diff brace mt. I notice that some of the gt30's parts are used...the oneway for example. What is part #28 on the 3 speed diagram(59992?)...I can not find it anywhere on tower?!? I hope they have pics and descriptions of the madforce parts soon!!!
Oh yeah, thanks guys for the input and diagrams.
im slowly coming along with my project...gathering parts, designing pieces( of course this whole threespeed thing has thrown a wrench in my R&D...I hope I can figure this aspect out so I can continue ahead. I plan to start doccumenting my progress by way of my stepmoms dig camera and posting them on this site if I can improve my sucky compute skills( i may have to bum you guys for info on how to go about doing this too?!?!)

Time for bed.

PS I got the following from www.horizonhobby.com:
2 speed clutch bell (gsc581620) $8.95
alum. 17t pinion (gsc582641) $9.99
alum. 20t pinion (gsc582644) $9.99

Im not sure about size specifications but I think this set up would be compatible with the lm 2speeds....also GS pinion gear quality is questionable...I can vouche for this in reguards to their buggy pinions when matching them with STEEL spur gears..plastic spur gears may not be a problem??? I think the pinion gears are also made in steel but I believe the sizes are limited to 16t and 20t only.

french-fry

07-14-2002, 04:25 AM

Have any of you guys ever heard of a print-your-own decal kit. I was just thinking that that would be really cool. That way you could scan your original sheets and then print replacements for the front headlight or something that was damaged. It would be especially good for those ebay specials. Although I guess there are some copy right issues.

Anyways, got my new flat chassis today. I just stuck with a stock replacement from tower. 100 bucks is just too close to a new engine to make it worthwhile. Will probably have the LM up and running late tommorow.

-Alex

SixVi6

07-14-2002, 01:52 PM

well since the t-maxx is down for some cleaning and installation of some new SuperMaxx CVD's I pulled the carb off the Megatech and droped it right onto the Hyper and into the LM2 and the results... amazing. It holds a tune and absolutly flies. I ran 4 tanks in the hyper with the megatech carb and it didn't stall at all. I just wish I could find where its leaking from in the Hypers Carb. I'm leaving the t-maxx down for a complete teardown and cleaning until I get the XTM engine for it, the SuperMaxx 1/8 diff conversion, and a couple other things so the LM2 will have the Megatech carbed Hyper on it for now. Time to teardown, clean and oil the GS21 then bag it and tag it.

hehe.. sheesh I've spent a ton of money on the RC's this month but ehh.. its cheaper than real cars and sooo much easier to wrench on and just as much fun. screw it.. I'm going to order up some more stuff now for the RC's.

lol.. Illionis does seem to be the place where lots of RC's are distrubitued. Horizon hobby and tower hobbies are both in champaign,IL which is a college town home of the U of Illionis.

3434

07-14-2002, 06:15 PM

Originally posted by KIRK S. DECKER
BUKKAKE
The more I look at that diagram of the three speed the more I think it is possible to install it in place of the original gt 30(of course with some modifications)...I also think with the right tinkering that it can fit with in the normal sized center diff brace...I would hate to have to modify the cool kyosho aluminum diff brace mt. I notice that some of the gt30's parts are used...the oneway for example. What is part #28 on the 3 speed diagram(59992?)...I can not find it anywhere on tower?!?

I'm with you kirk. This is putting my project on hold too. It looks like the only thing that is the same is the one-way. And thats a 10X15 bearing 96992

Unobjectionable

07-15-2002, 02:23 AM

yeah it looks like it fits on the snout of the 3rd gear clutch hub part and supports that side of the spur, with a 6xsomething on the other side..very clever design on that thing, you could have as many gears as you had space for, a 5 speed would be cool too..53/50/46/43/40 spurs and a clutchbell 3" long...ahaha

you shouldn't have to modify your GTW-6 kirk, at worst maybe make a new top plate for it that is a little bit longer...but i think all 3 gears would fit in the space provided on either 2 speed, plenty of room in the GT-30 type setup if the front spacer is shortened

alex - i have seen those "stika" sticker printers, combined with a pc thats a pretty powerful tool...i have heard of people actually photographing headlights etc. and using the images to make the decals...hard to get much more realistic than that eheh...i think they also make vinyl sticker sheets for laser printers, might be fun to experiment with sometime

john - glad to hear it lives again...i had heard the hyper carb was actually pretty good after the necessary "final assembly" (eheh)...might be worth another look...if not, you could probably pick up an older OS carb from ebay...i'm not sure if OS always uses the same size neck on the carb, but some of the older engines with the 20B carb go for like $30-40...buy it for the carb, trash the engine and still come out ahead..ehehe

SixVi6

07-15-2002, 02:41 AM

yeah I'm not even going to worry about the hyper now because it now runs great with the megatech carb. Since the megatech now has 6 gals through it and it was beginning to run really hot all the time and not hold an idle too well It was on its last leg and its not worth it to rebuild it so its the parts .21 now. I'm going to tear it down, clean, oil, bag and tag it for a parts engine. Mabey later on I'll tear the Hyper's carb apart totally and replace every o ring and give it another try.

Now I wait for Unlimited to begin shipping the 1/8 diffs and for Hobby People to ship out the 24.7's and the 1/8 slipper conversion for the t-maxx. I'm glad I have the LM2. I'd loose my mind w/o any RC's at all to run.

John

KIRK S. DECKER

07-15-2002, 08:27 AM

Well, I think Im going to start ordering parts for that three speed to get my project back on the road. Ill take that "I'll cross that bridge when I come to attitude" with any difficulties I may run into. I just wish I wouldnt have bought that two speed so quickly(it could have been money better spent) but I think Ill be salvaging parts from it for the three speed (spacers, the $20 oneway, etc.) Ill keep you guys informed about my progress with the three speed as I go along.

SixVi6

That 1/8 conversion kit sounds pretty cool. Am i right in assuming that it includes a center diff to allow a tmaxx to have a drivetrain like a 1/8 buggy? With that combined with the .24 mill you'll have quite a "sleeper" on your hands...it will be quite a suprise when you fire that thing up around the unsuspecting tmaxx or for that matter 1/8 buggy owner, especially if they dont get a look "under the hood first".:)
pr0k
What size are the groumets that you are using for the body holes.
They look like the vinyl ones as opposed to the rubber ones (my hardware store sell both). I may use these on all my bodies; they look good and seem like they would really protect the body from both the inside and outside (piant scratches underneath and decal tears from body pins on top), plus the body probably "seats" better on the body posts?

Pr0k

07-15-2002, 03:55 PM

Kirk: I used 3/8" vinyl, I actually picked mine up at radio shack. The fit is very snug on the stock body mounting posts.I widened the holes some with a #10 scalpel, I guess an exacto would work too.

french-fry

07-15-2002, 05:45 PM

Well, after a bit of searching on amazon, i found a bunch of decal printer things. It says that all you need is a normal inkjet printer and you can print great looking decals that work on any smooth surface.

Perhaps you are curious as to exactly why I want to be able to print my own decals? Well, I did end up ordering a T-maxx, but they don't have the body that I want. I own a full-size jeep cherokee and of course that model tmaxx body doesn't exist. What I'm going to try to do is take picturs of my jeep parts and then fudge them to a Cadillac Escalade body.

Currently my landmax is still out of commission as nothing is attached to the chassis. But hopefully I'll have it up again soon. I'm getting restless without any rc cars to drive.:(

SixVi6

07-15-2002, 06:06 PM

My tmaxx is still going to have a 2 speed stock looking tranny but inside its a totally built aftermarket forward only conversion with wide faced gears to handle anything you throw at it. there are 1/8 center diff conversions and chassis for the t-maxx but I like the more monster look with the braces and such. Its expensive stuff but heck I got to keep the kids happy.. lol. the 1/8 diff conversion for the maxx is such a thing of beauty... sniff sniff.. (http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/slideshow/7.5diff.shtml/Hi-SM7.5UltraLite.jpg) I'm getting all teary just thinking about it.

fry.. I guess I'll be seeing you in the t-maxx forum soon. lol.. my advice is keep the maxx a smallblock and make it light weight. .21's are really expensive unless you spend big bucks to handle the .21 power.

I ran my LM2 on my lunchbreak and man! it hauls with the good running hyper. hehe.. I may just take it to the on road track during practice and scare the touring cars. I'd race it but there are no classes to race my LM2 in oh well..

Unobjectionable

07-15-2002, 07:20 PM

dammit...so much for the $50 hyper!

hahah kidding...just out of curiosity, any possibility the gs 21 carb would fit on one of em? i am more and more convinced that thing is made by OS and always has been...let me know if you want to sell your leftovers, i could let you know how well you did with the porting job ehehe...

that goes for kirk too, i can probably use any GT-30 parts you dont need, my goal is to be set for life on parts..eheh...god i am a junkie...i have 2 of em new, one in a car, 2 sets of spur gears and a bearing collar set...you'd think i'm hoarding or something

can't wait for one of you guys to get the 3 speed going, that will sound like a superbike blasting up and down the street..too cool...i was thinking the cheapest way to do it would be to buy a mad force, keep what you need and part the rest out on ebay...i'm sure there will be a good demand for chassis/suspension/drive parts once the thing gets into general circulation...the starting price is just a bit too steep for me though eheh

alex - the sticker thing sounds cool, keep us posted on how that works out...i think they also make an expedition body that could almost be a jeep

sheesh, you guys and the tmaxxes...i agree it would be pretty neat with a nice .12 or something, i always thought the 2 speed and reverse was a cool idea...traxxas has just always kinda scared me with the wealth of plastic parts...i bet siv6's truck could wrap one of them plastic slider outdrives up like a wrought iron lawn chair

i wonder if that rcalloys 2 shoe aluminum clutch would fit in place of the stock type 2 shoes?

misc rambling:

check out the galleries at nitrorc.com, i was surprised to see quite a few landmaxii, though scattered among various categories...and oddly enough, the majority of em have the S40 body...odd

http://www.nitrorc.com/gallery/indexbs.asp?Model=landmax

also, belgravekm from the nitroreview landmax forum posted some nice pics of his custom chassis and shock tower...looks pretty beefy and "curb resistant"...note how he tied in the radio tray to the rear bulkhead, simple but effective i'm sure...nothing stopping an LM2 owner from doing up something similar, have to bend in the front kickup with a bench vise or something

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=931326&uid=600952

i need to get crackin on my custom parts, i have some cool ideas to show you guys