Kyosho Landmax Forum v1.0

[Pr0k]

Ok I ordered a new skyline body and the uber bling BS-86 uni-crank. I will keep the Mitsubitshi as a beater body, if anyone has pics of a skyline let me know i am looking for color schemes.

[Unobjectionable]

metallic is nice, pactra makes some sweet dark blue pearl metallic that would look real purty

http://***********/gp20/misc/skylinepc.jpg

[KIRK S. DECKER]

wHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO tint windows.....my experience with various commercial tints (Pactra window tint) have been less than stellar. I suppose a highly dilluted tint through my airbrush would work?.? any suggestions or experiences that came out good?

Bukkake as far as parts that Ill be willing to get rid of go I will have a stock chasis (beat up but still true), a gs 21 r( with a piston/sleeve with less than 1/2 gallon of fuel through it, and a "new" type cylinder head ) various gs 21 carb parts (both old and new styles) aluminum stock small/large bevel gears and other unessential lm stuff. like you though, many of the parts that I have duplicates of Im keeping just in case...also have that "great" stock muffler....

[SixVi6]

Unobjectionable .. the GS21 carb it too small to fit a real engine. I though of trying it on the hyper when I started to have problems.

I opened up the GS21 and found out that the piston seemed to be catching on the exhaust port of the sleve and chiping off pieces of sleve and piston. not good at all. It still ran great though and did not seem to effect running at all. Other than that 2.5 gals of fuel with no regard to temps and tunig for power it sill looked good. I did notice that Kyosho annod the head evertwhere, even the parts that are inside the combustion chamber. The anno seemed to break down with time and heat then leave a black stain on the piston and all throughout the exhust port and on into the exhuast.

The Megatech .21 will be next. I'm actually afraid to open this one up because I was brutal to it in everyhitng from snow and near 0 deg F temps to dirt and 100 deg tems and I even water logged the engine once and I was not always all that diligent with the after run especailly in the dead of the winter when it was just too dang cold to try to get afterrun into an engine. so I'm guessig rust on the crank and scratches on the really worn sleve. It will be like new though when its done though except for the p/s which I may just replace or have resized if the piston is still in good shape. I really liked this engine a lot and it lasted though hell w/o a single problem. Other than the initial porting and the quick seal job I never opened it up though the 6.5 gals of use.

[Unobjectionable]

yeah, they really are amazing little engines in general...a V8 that made even close to the power to weight ratio of a hot .21 would only last a few runs...ehehe...pretty incredible that they will last almost indefinitely if properly taken care of (and barring any defects)...

on a semi-related note, i think i might have to experiment with some of the klotz "benol" additive stuff...the wildcat fuels (http://www.wildcatfuel.com/prodmain.htm) page is pretty convincing, and the old time airplane guys swear by it...$7 for a pint at tower, i'll give it a try...

kirk, i was planning to just use real tint...if you must spray, i think they have discussed various methods in the body/paint forum..."haunted mist" (hehe) had a recipe that sounded interesting and included a little shot of purple for flavor...i think you would almost have to have an airbrush to achieve a realistic looking light to medium tint though, i think i will have better luck with the real thing..ehehe

i might be interested in some miscellany, the drive bevels are always nice to have, and i wouldn't mind playing with the new style head just to see how it compares...

btw, i saw the first "orange head" GS 21 on ebay the other day...this is the engine that comes with the mad force...dunno if there are any significant changes (doubt it), but it's kinda funny looking...like some bastard offspring of an RB and an OS...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1746976817

[Unobjectionable]

just had to share this...this is from an ebay auction that ended in february or march (i have forgotten, and so has ebay)...we worked a deal on some extra parts, i took forever to pay and she (yes, she) took forever to ship...i had about given up on getting this stuff, sent off CASH (yeah i know, registered mail), the last email i sent was in may..she emails out of the blue the other day and says it has shipped...and here it is...

chassis, front and rear bulkheads with diffs/gears (rear is missing the small one)
center diff and brake stuff
2 extra bulkheads (front and rear)
2 extra diffs
various dogbones, plates etc
2 sets inferno steering knuckles
2 sets hingepins (almost complete, all the 4mm are there)
stock type servo saver assembly

all these parts are brand spankin new, and had to come from australia...net cost, $70 shipped (thats $130 aus)...such a bargain!

ironic part is that neither of us can leave feedback since we took 4+ months to complete the deal...hahah

[SixVi6]

hmm... Unob I saw the post in the Nitro forum where you posted pics of the Stratos LM1. I noticed the rims look different from front to rear.. Is it just the slight difference in the face of the wheel or are they offset different?

hehe good score on the ebay deal.. although it took a long time to get the stuff but hey like you said no negative feedback can be placed anyways on either part so who cares.

[Unobjectionable]

it does look like the front has more offset doesn't it? i will have to ask oscar about that one....

don't get me wrong on the ebay thing, i would leave positive feedback if it would let me...i was in no real rush for the stuff anyway, and it did take probably six weeks from the end of the auction for her to have the money in her hand...she said the other day that there had been a recent death in the family, hence the slow shipping...good enough excuse for me...

on an unrelated note, i am curious to hear your opinion on the craftmanship of the xtm engine when you get it...any idea who actually makes it? this new bored out hyper .25 sounds pretty cool too, maybe my procrastination will pay off..ehehe

[Unobjectionable]

http://videos.radiocontrolzone.com/kyosho_mad_force_wch.zip

click and love...thing would be much cooler with a landmax body on it though..ahaha

[3434]

Just got back from the track. One of the guys has an unpainted Lumina body if your interested Buk,Pr0k

[Pr0k]

Hehe, no I was talking about the old bodies for the Esprit. I would love to find the Mercedes, or old Alpha.

Thanks for asking though

[SixVi6]

Well form the pics I've seen of the 24.7 it looks identical, case and carb wise, to the Megatech .21 that I have. We'll see when I get it how it looks and performs. There is a guy on maxxtraxx that has a 24.7 and Ofna .25 so far he likes the 24.7 way better. the hyper .25 is actually a force engine. so its kinda strange.
Here is his final post as well as a link to the initial post of the two engines with pics and all. He was very through.
http://pub13.ezboard.com/fmaxximumtraxxasfrm45.showMessage?topicID=6478.top ic


I can't tell if the rear has a different offset or not in the stratos wheels. It kinda does look like it but it might just be an ilusion because of the difference in wheel designs and the body but there is a different part # for the front and rear wheels of the startos so I am curious.

My Megatech .21 is thrashed. the bushing in the con rod was horribly loose and the psiton/sleve was really worn out and had a few good knicks in the piston from something. Also, just as I though there was a bit of light rust on the crank. I can't believe it still even started and ran when it was this bad. come on XTM.. get those 24.7's back in stock darn it.. Its on backorder.

[3434]

One of them has an old alpha body. All the plastic to go with it. Only problem is he was going to paint it years ago and now he cant get the tape off the windows. I haven't seen it myself but I'll try to get a look at it

[Pr0k]

3434: Wow, I would certainly be interested. If he would like to part with it. I will find a way to remove the tape if that is all that is wrong with it.

[Unobjectionable]

thanks for the link john, so much for that plan..ehehe...shades of the "Saturn .17"

i am fairly sure the offset is different...i will email oscar tonight and ask him, but check the 3rd pic...it sure looks like the "face" of the wheel is offset more to the outside in front, probably to fit that particular body

http://***********/gp20/Users/Oscar/oscar03.jpg

[SixVi6]

yes.. it does look like they have a different offsets for sure now that I look at them.

I though about getting the Hyper .25 but I think its too much for the .21 case and its based on the force engines so that kinda worries me and if it does wear out quickly its both expensive and hard to get a new piston and sleve from Ofna.
On the other hand the 24.7's piston and sleve is $50.. in fact all the XTM parts are cheap and easily available through Hobby people so I'm a lot more confortable buying that. The only problem I've heard is the heat sink is of poor quality casting and it breaks easily if takes a hit but I think the Megatech head I have will fit on it or else I'll pick up the XTM .21 pro head. either will work because they have a seperate button and head design.

I got the hyper carb working! I totally dissasembled it last last night and replaced most of the o rings and sealed it onto the Hyper and left it until this afternoon. On my lunch break I fired it up and it held a tune through two tanks just and ran just as good as the Megatech carb. hehe.. I still had the megatech right there ready to drop on if there were problems but I think I have the hyper carb fixed now... I hope :rolleyes:

[Unobjectionable]

yeah, i bitched out the guys in the nitro forum for gettin me all worked up...eheh...hyper 25 my ass

thats good news on your hyper, i thought you had replaced the o-rings first thing...ripped o-rings from the factory and the pullstart were the only real complaints i ever heard...seems to be a hit or miss thing too, as some people just bolt it in and don't have any problems...

that xtm sounds pretty good, if it holds up as well as the megatech it's money well spent...you should see if your megatech head fits it when you get one

edit: i should really read the posts i am replying to..haha

[SixVi6]

I replced some of them before only if they looked bad but this time I replaced just about all of the o rings regardless of how they looked. I used a weird mix of o rings to do it.. everything from MIP shock o rings to t-maxx carb o rings and used a good deal of green slime on all the rings. and sealed it to the engine usng high temp silicone. ohh and I was **** aobut cleaning it all up and checking everyhitng. it was a pain... but its all good now.

[3434]

man i've been trying to get on this site all night. finally let me on. Pr0k I'll let you know. I haven't seen the body yet.

[Pr0k]

Cool, let me know, has the forum been down?

[KIRK S. DECKER]

My original Landmax was the Stratos,and the offset of the wheels is different. The front wheels are offset out from the chassis by 3-5more mm than the rears...probably for the body to fit???? The faces of the wheels also are different (the rear wheels being more concave) but there is a definite difference in actual offset. By the way, if anyone is interested in purchasing the stratos body,
be forewarned, it will challange your modeling skills (ie putting on the 4 hrs worth of decals) and patience. I drove myself mad doing so and have only ran the body twice (i had a bad wreck the first time) and now only use the body for show...what a shame!!!

[Unobjectionable]

thanks for the info on the rims...comparing the pics of the stratos wheels with the "normal" ones i have here, i'm thinking the fronts are really the same, and the rears are the oddballs...i would guess using stratos rears all around would widen the track slightly...does that sound right?

something for you LM2 owners, markus shared some good info in the 7.5 Sports (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=77168) forum, having to do with the differences between the sport (LM2) and standard 7.5 cars...note the part about the sport diffs, that would be a cheap upgrade and should beef up the drivetrain a bit, for them hot motors

[Unobjectionable]

p.s. something for 3434...i finally got my R32 skyline body, but it's a supereight, not landmax...so i guess that makes it official...another project car

i also got some of the BBS type wheels for it, and got a hot tip on which tires will fit em (they are 10mm bigger than LM, 7mm smaller than buggy) so i can actually run this one...eheh

http://***********/gp20/misc/calsonicNIB.jpg

p.p.s. forgot to mention, those supereight wheels are the same size and design as the old inferno ST wheels, they all just have a different screw-on piece which is the hub and face of the rim...

http://***********/gp20/misc/st1.jpg

[Jimmy33]

Dude what is with the Tamiya cap next to the body?! :rolleyes:

[jeroen]

He do you own that inferno st truck unobjectionable.

Would be cool i like the way the body looks.

Have you got more pics of that inferno st chassis ;)

[Unobjectionable]

ehehe...both of those pics are from their respective ebay auctions, hence the tamiya cap in the one pic...i had taken a better one of the body after i got it, but i used pr0k's camera to take it and it (he) later erased the pics by mistake...i will get a better pic of the goodz this weekend...

i don't own the inferno ST, it's cool though isn't it?...same chassis as the super eights, just with the different rims and the truck body...i remember mugen came out with their 8th scale ST around the same time as kyosho had that one...surprising it never took off as a class, i'm sure it would be a fun race to watch

[Unobjectionable]

here we go..oscar sent me some great comparative pics of the stratos rears vs. the regular offset...they do increase the width a bit, for anybody that wants to widen their car slightly...could alway dye/paint em if you don't like the yellow..ehehe

http://***********/gp20/misc/stratos01.jpg
http://***********/gp20/misc/stratos02.jpg
http://***********/gp20/misc/stratos03.jpg

and here is a pic of the largest private collection of kyosho GT-9 supereight wheels in the united states, currently sitting in a plastic grocery bag on the floor next to me...there are two inferno ST wheels in there too and you should be able to see how the front part screws on...the black one is a landmax wheel, to show the size difference...and the cat included for general scale..eheh

http://***********/gp20/misc/WHEELSWHEELSWHEELS.jpg

[Cant log on]

Buk where did you find the Skyline body or is that a whole kit?


Been having trouble getting on for weeks and the forum won't answer countless emails

3434

[Unobjectionable]

i will sell you the ecatbox nick for one dolla!

saw the body kit on ebay and made the guy an offer...he had two of them sent over from europe or somewhere years ago, and had set his MP-5 up as the supereight that never was...definitely one of a kind..he has since sold the car and had no need for the body etc..

http://**************/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1745247561

pics of his completed car:

http://***********/gp20/misc/IMAG0001.gif
http://***********/gp20/misc/IMAG0003.jpg

i also bought one full set of the new rims and those 4 used ones from him...nice guy...even gave me a hot tip on which tires to use with them for free! (the narrow ofna buggy streets, OFN82011 i think)...i will get a better pic of the body tomorrow...it's beautiful and HUGE, suffice it to say it fits entirely over a landmax...

[Unobjectionable]

eheh they banned e-b-a-y links

EBAY EBAY EBAY

p.s. his MP-5 calsonic was an RCCA readers ride a few years back

[Cant log on]

Still can't believe they gave you that name. lol For some reason they had changed my name to rustler something before. Pr0k I talked to Tony about the body. He said there was some spider web cracking on one of the rear quarters. If you can wait I'll check it out this Wednesday.

3434

[Pr0k]

Sounds good to me, just let me know. I am still waiting for my new Nissan body(KYOC2470). I picked up some chrome paint today by dupli-color to see how some old wheels I paint turn out.

[Jimmy33]

Can you use the lancia back rims on the front as well as on the back or would they stick out of the body too much?

[Redfox]

Yay! I'm finally back from melb!! Geeez this post is moving along very quickly!!!

Jimmy33, i gotta feeling that you might have problems clearing the body with wider front wheels, but you could fix it with slightly larger wheel arches or push the body out a bit... my front right wheel kept catching the body cos something is a little bit bent, so i put some foam on the inside of the body to push it off the mud guards a bit and hence gives the wheels more clearance...

Damn while i was away i missed 2 ebay auctions on an 1/8th starter box which went for AU$81 and also an 1/8th tuned pipe (rossi maybe) for $36... bugger... :mad:

Oh there was also a failsafe for AU$41 which is a damn sight better than the US$54 i paid for the futaba one... grrrrrrr.... oh well i guess it's saved me countless times already... i might put in a throttle return spring soon...

:D

[SixVi6]

Oh great.. so now I'm going to have to buy some of those stratos wheels for my LM2 because I really want to try that out. I've also always loved those old Lancia rally cars.. hmmm... I just might just have to pick up the body and the wheels in a couple months I hope they still have them in stock then. I've spent to much on RC's and my Camaro this month. Thank god I got a raise starting at the begining of july. I have to chill out for a month the only thing I will probably get is a starter box and of course fuel for my RC's.

[jeroen]

Yeh me to spent too much money at this hobby, but what the heck it is fun.

The stratos body i looking cool and those rims are also cool and wider so maybe I'll buy also thatstuff for my landmax.

Is there anyone who has got the original conversion kit for the O.S four stroke engine
I want too know if it is worth the money, because it is so expensive, and maybe i'll buy only a couple of things that i really need to instal the O.S fourstroke.

[Unobjectionable]

heheh i sense a run on lancia rears coming on...i wouldn't mind having a full set myself...as far as fitment, i think it really depends on the body...i don't see any problems if using the street tires, as they are a good bit smaller in diameter (very noticeable in those pics)...but if you were using the rally tires on one of the more touring oriented bodies it could get messy...but a rally skyline/S40/alfa whatever would look pretty dumb anyway...haha

the only person i know who has purchased the whole GTW-40 kit is oscar...it is pretty expensive here ($225us), especially for what amounts to a bunch of adapters and a pipe...the parts are available separately, but are still pretty pricey...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=gtw040&FVPROFIL=++

if you wanted to piece it out, you would need the mounts, a suitable flywheel (oscar reports the superten .26-FS flywheel works better, the .26 and .40 use the same size crank, .25" i think), the manifold, the correct pilot shaft for your application (i don't think the one included with the kit would work with a 2 speed but you could get around that) and a suitable pipe...the linkage looks a little strange but it wouldn't be too hard to cobble something up...

they probably use most of the same parts in the four stroke kit for LM2 (part number still unknown), but i doubt it will be all that much cheaper (if at all)...i still don't see any advantage to using the .40 in a landmax, both models are undergeared enough as it is, and losing so much rpm and top speed after spending so much money does not appeal to me, if they made racing level .40 two strokes i would consider it eheh...in my opinion, the MAD FORCE would be a far better application for the .40 (HINT HINT) since it could use the extra torque more effectively (unspecified by OS, the 40cx is rated 1.6hp i believe) ...i see that thing will wheelie through all 3 gears with the GS 21, god only knows what would happen with a real .21 in it, but the .40 would keep the top speed down and still have that torque for crazy (but controllable) acceleration and a very smooth powerband...they will no doubt have a "MA-040FS" kit or something soon, now that i said that...ehe

anyhoo, for the landmax i think i would spend the money (we are talking an easy $300-400us for parts and engine, after all) on some fancy italian .21 and a set of the steel diff drive gears and call it a day...this is not to say the .40 is not cool, because it is...it sounds like some enraged husqvarna 400cc air cooled thumper dirtbike, versus the more yamaha r1 scream of a nice 21 (if that makes sense)...its just that, for the money, it's not much of a usable perfomance increase since for the same money you could have a racing class 21 with 2.5-3hp and more rpm than you could use...there is a definite "cool factor" though...i guess i will shut up now...

by the way, i guess the race is on to see who will have the first .40 3 speed car, we now have 3 contenders by my count...i can't wait to see the results

[Unobjectionable]

p.s. welcome back chris, i was wondering where you had got to...the thread is growing rather quickly isn't it? come a long way since november 01...the future holds great things

[Redfox]

Yeah it's good to be back... i think i was getting rczone withdrawal!!

My dad just got back from the states and today i have just installed the new spur gear (remember i stripped the original one while i was racing 2 weeks ago...) and the new motor savers air filter... i have had to tilt back the high end needle a bit to give myself room to tune it cos the airfilter sorta got in the way.... but it's all good now... i was careful not to over tighten that aluminium screw in the carb...

:D

[Unobjectionable]

heheh good man...haveta be careful with brass and aluminum, they are both generally soft enough to deform pretty easily

[Redfox]

Well seeing as my engine still runs pretty darn hot.... about 109 degrees celcius i think... i am going to water cool my head! =] What i am gonna do is get a smallish water pump powered on a 12V battery and then some copper tubing to wrap in and around the head sink head and a small water reservoir somewhere on the car... then hopefully with the water flowing around the head it will keep it running cooler and hence i won't get flameouts as much... what do you guys reckon? a bit far fetched? i've already found a suitable water pump i think... it does 100ml/min is that too slow?? should be ok i think...

[jeroen]

Cool idea, that would be the solution for the old gs21r for getting too hot

I have seen once a guy doing the same on his T-maxx Looked cool.
And he said that it worked great.
I'm considering too buy a O.S fourstroke for my landmax and madforce as well
I like the bottum power and cool sound of that engine, and the top speed is good enough for me, you only must put on the right gears.
I'm also working on my 3-speed landmax, but i must adjust some things too get it all fixet but it will fit.
Any suggestions for placing the tank soem where else otherwise the large clutch bell doesn't fir in there.
Or should i just get a smaller tank

[Pr0k]

RedFox:
Sounds like a recipe for disaster!! Added weight and the first curbcheck would be like turning a hose on your electronics. It would look cool though ehehe. Not sure I wouldn't just try a ram air scoop and an exhuast hole covered by screen to direct fresh air to flow over the fins.

[Pr0k]

A quick pic of some new goodies the postman brought today!

[Unobjectionable]

we don't care about your obselete MP-6 parts buddy!

the water cooling thing is a lot of added weight and complexity..pump, 12V battery, some kind of radiator etc..and as pr0k mentioned, it will probably be something of a weak spot in terms of crash-worthiness and general abuse

a landmax with a nice .21 marine engine, one of the "perry pumps" (vaccuum operated) and some kind of cute little aluminum/copper radiator would be neat though...

"brb, have to change the coolant in my keeosho"
"dude, you should just get a peltier!"

[Pr0k]

Look again there buddy boy, that is a genuine kyosho stock mp7.5 chasis up in dere!

[Unobjectionable]

i give you ten dolla for it...then i bend it in half and use it for a bookend

[Redfox]

Well i was considering adding some weight to the rear of the car anywayz... cos i have got the shocks at the front as soft as they go (to the point where they don't come back up without assistance.... stupid stock shocks) and the rear shocks pretty darn hard, and the car still sorta understeers... i would prolly use a 9V battery (my bro found a rechargable one the other nite) and you know those little steel or aluminium tanks that they use for fuel tanks on model planes?? Might chuck a small aluminium heatsink on the top of that and then the pump which weighs a tad more than those little crappy electric motors which they put in those tiny tandy cars... you know the ones...
The pump costs AU$14 and then the rest of the gear maybe AU$20 so that's only AU$34... or US$18 to you guys... that's not so much to blow for a fun little experiment... i too have a feeling it will back fire, but hey what the heck... it should be fun!
I am planning on mounting the reservoir on the back shelf of the rear diff housing and then the pump on the front part of the rear diff housing... that should give me the little extra weight in the rear which i need to make it handle better anywayz... i'll see how it goes... i really should get me an MIP temp gauge... is AU$40 a good price for the temp gauge??

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Just ordered a ton of parts from tower to continue my project car including all the parts needed for the three speed trany (most of these parts are on back order though!) One madforce option part that may save me a bunch of hastle is the optional clutch bell guide for PILOT SHAFT engines...sweet! Now im trying to decide what mill to put into the machine. I was originally looking at a Picco/Ofna O1 but i cant find a 086 highend inline pipe for it (ofna sells a picco inline buggy pipe but i think it is rated at 053 and not tuned for top end use and picco engines have a different sized exhust outlet so that R&B, OS, Rex etc. exhaust systems are not compatible with these engines). I was also looking at some sweet Rossi engines carried by Morris hobbies( www.rossiengines.com ). From what i read these engines are not only high performance but very reliable and last forever. Although they are pricey they are not really too bad of a deal (they include 3-4 different sized carb restrictors as well as a polished inline tuned pipe system). Well Ill have plenty of time to make a decision as I wont be ordering anything else for a couple of months (damn if this hobby isnt expensive). Any inputs or suggestions based on experince or what you have heard on various high performance onroad engines would be great.

[Unobjectionable]

cool, what is the part number for the MF clutch bell guide?

here's some nice pipes, though a bit on the expensive side:

http://www.ace-hobbies.com/Images/Pipes/18pipe.html

you could also try nationalrc.com, they have a lot of buggy stuff...i agree with you that the 086 should be good, seems to be the pipe of choice for almost everything

the O-1 would no doubt be a handful (in a good way), it looks very cool too ehehe...i like my piccos, i would like to try a nice 5 port nova someday too...i have heard good things about the rossi engines also (no relation to nova as far as i know), but parts might be harder to get...

p.s. if price were not a factor i would have to check out the rb C4 or C5, they have so much power (crazy top end) that the buggy racers are scared of em...eheheh...

[SixVi6]

Yeah the 1/8 buggy guys that I've talked to say out of every engine they've ever run the C4 and C5 are the most powerfull from idle to its insane top end and they are scary fast.. I've been told that they are only good for really really large tracks and that I'm insane for wanting one for my LM2. hehe.. insanity is just soo cool.. lol. but I've seen vids of full on, complete Unlimited Engineerig SuperMaxxes of solid aluminum in the sand with c4's doing wheelies at at any speed. now that power.

[Redfox]

Ok, i just had a brainwave!! I got back from the LHS and found out that the copper tubing i bought was a bit too wide to fit in between the fins on the heatsink head! So i was a bit confused as to what to do when i figured....... wait for it.......... why not put the cooling inside the head where the glow heater goes!!! Genius!!! Hehehehe so what i'm gonna do is wind a coil of copper tubing so that it fits snuggly in the heatsink head... i can try to make it fit so that i can stick the glow heater in there at the same time, or else make it take up the whole space, so that you start the engine first, then you stick the cooling coil in... ok i think this idea shall now be patented!! tee hee hee.... i got the pump today... i'm sure they come smaller, but this one is about the size of a C size battery that is a little bit longer than usual. And the cool thing is that the hole in the rear shock tower (you know that big hole for the rear exhaust option) well the inlet of the pump is pretty much exactly that size (yeah i know it 's a big inlet) and it's all cooooool!! hehehe ok i'll keep ya updated... i got a feelin the extra weight may be a bit of a performance sacrifice, but i think this is cool... and anywayz, with the removable coil, i can take the unit out whenever i want...

[Redfox]

Wow crap.... hehehehee this pump is the high pressure one... as opposed to the other one.. i paid $4 more cos it was lighter... heheh but instead of 100ml/min this does about 3 litres/min!!! geeez... it sprays like a fire hose!! hehehe i'm gonna have to put a spare inline speed controller in there to keep it pumping nice n slow... bugger... that would waster battery power wouldn't it... any suggestions?? is there a way you can restrict the drawing of power without diverting some into a heatsink like the mechanical speed controllers do?? hrmmmm maybe instead of this 7.2V battery pack i'll use a single D cell or something...

[Redfox]

This copper coil winding business is harder than i thought!! bugger..... it's so easy to get a kink in the tube!! I have thrown away the first piece and now i've made another one that isn't a coil exactly... it basically goes down one of the screw hole shafts, and then across to the other one, then back up and over to the next hole shaft that it goes down, then across and back up the last one... then it goes around the top rim of the heatsink head then you connect it to the fuel line which goes back to the reservoir... hard to picture? I'll try to get a digital camera to take a pic of it for you guyz... I think the best power for this pump is 2 C size batteries... or maybe 2 D size... depends how long i want them to last i guess...
Now i just gotta look around for a good sized water reservoir... i used to have a metal fuel tank but i dunno where it's gone!! grrr.... the LHS doesn't have one either... they just have the plastic fuel tanks. I might have to get an electronic components box from the electrical shop and put in a seal and make it my new radiator... the prob is that they are waaay too thick to do the job properly... any suggestions anyone?!

[jeroen]

The number for that madforce 3-speed clutch bell guide is: maw008

If you guys like too check out my madforce,use the link
Also check out the linken, some cool movies and other cool stuff mentioned in there

http://groups.msn.com/kyoshomadforce

Or check out my landmax Updates follow soon on this page when i receive some more option parts from my lhs

http://groups.msn.com/kyosholandmax/_homepage.msnw?pgmarket=nl-nl

[Cant log on]

Red leave yourself a little extra tube. Crimp the end then fill it with sand. Then crimp the other end. Then try to bend the tube. When your done cut the ends off and blow the sand out. Its an old trick but it works.

3434

[Redfox]

Yeah 3434, i knew about that trick but i thought the tube wasn't big enough inside... i'll give it a shot tho... i'll just try to find some really fine sand....

[Unobjectionable]

don't they have sand in australia? i could send you some genuine fine-grain sugar sand...(for a price)...

eheh

sounds like a cool experiment, we must have some pics of the finished product...maybe you could find a real small car heater core or motorcycle oil cooler or something...or get a really big cpu heatsink and wind your coils through that too

[french-fry]

You know they also make water cooling kits for computers. I think they come with a really small radiator. Might be kinda pricey though.

I bin outa the loop lately as I have been cruisin with my Tmaxx. It is a ton of fun! It doesn't have anywhere near the torque of the GS21, but for good all-around off roading it is the best!

One of these days I'll get a friend over and we'll shoot a video of the Tmaxx and the landmax dragging. Just in case anyone had any doubts.

Finally, regarding the two speed tranny in the LM, is it supposed to move back and forth. On mine, there is about half a centimeter of play. Like, i can move the whole assembly towards the front of the car and then to the back. It does not seem to affect the gear mesh, but if it isn't normal, how do I fix it?

Oh yah, and another vote for pictures of the finished water-cooling unit.

-Alex

[Unobjectionable]

eheh cool, looking forward to seeing that one...

i once saw this ".40 tmaxx cooling kit" on ebay, kicking myself for not saving the picture...tmaxx with a bigass gold heatsink and a fan on it, pretty funny stuff

p.s. the outrageously expensive kyosho 6x12 shims (from BS-53 shim set, unless you have some leftover from the kit) should do nicely, you want to have a little play, but not that much...

[Redfox]

I am a genius!!!!! Even if i do say so myself!! tee hee hee! :D

Well i have finished the unit!!! It's coooooool... (no pun intended!!!) Ok what i have is a water pump that is about the size of a C cell battery that is 1 cm longer than usual. It has an intake diameter of....... wait for it........ 13.2mm... and the output nozzle is 3.95mm. Apparently it's a high pressure centrifugal water pump. Here's a pic of it...

http://www.dse.com.au/isroot/dse/images/products/p8907.jpg

This is the place i bought it from... good old dickies...
Dick Smith Water Pump Details (http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/3d3e5f9b08dc359e273fc0a87f9c06f0/Product/View/P8907)

It apparently has a throughput of 3L/min... that is friggin coooool... i was runnin it of a 7.2V battery today (not sure of the amperage) but it is like a high powered windscreen washer... it sayz that it takes 12V@2A which i imagine would put out a house fire :D

The pump is put on the inside of the rear shock tower and the big nozzle goes through where the rear exhaust hole is in the shower tower. Then on the other side of this i have a clear PVC (i think it's PVC... the flexible clear tube that has a blue tinge to it) tube that is put over the nozzle and then i have cut a big hole in the aluminium reservoir tank that i bought and i have epoxyed the tube in. The tank isn't the most ideal cos it's fairly thick and heavier than it had to be, but it will absorb a lot of heat. This is a pic of the aluminium box that i made into the tank. There is a seal in the lid so that it's water tight.

http://www.dse.com.au/isroot/dse/images/products/h2231.gif

The box measures approx 60x55x30mm and is most like the open one in that pic above. I forgot to mention that the tank is mounted at an angle of that plastic on the top of the rear diff housing. Infact i haven't really secured the tank onto the diff housing yet... it's just held on with the tubing stuck onto the pump.

Wake up damn you!! Don't fall asleep in the middle of my explanation!! hehehehe

Ok so then in the top side of the tank i have a small copper tube (the same type i made the cooling coil out of) that sticks out (that was epoxyed in as well). This part serves as the water return to the reservoir.

So from the small output nozzle on the pump, fuel tubing carries the water into my copper cooling coil thingy and then that goes out and back into the reservoir via more fuel tubing stuck onto the copper water return nipple.

Does that all make sense?! Ok now i appreciate the saying "a picture is worth a thousand words"!!!!

I will try to get a digital camera to show you exactly what i mean!

In the end it actually doesn't weigh that much, but i'm yet to actually run the car (seeing as it's night time now) so i dunno how it's gonna affect the performance. I know the car might accelerate a tad slower with the weight, but i think it's pretty funky to have a water cooled nitro car!

And the cool thing (no pun intended again!!!) is that the copper cooling coil (it's not exactly a coil per se) is installed in a way that you can even use the glow heater with it still in there! But it's pretty easy to just slip out anywayz so that wasn't a major issue.

Ok ok!!!! Fotos! Hehehehe i'll get onto it! :D

[Cant log on]

Originally posted by french-fry


Finally, regarding the two speed tranny in the LM, is it supposed to move back and forth. On mine, there is about half a centimeter of play. Like, i can move the whole assembly towards the front of the car and then to the back. It does not seem to affect the gear mesh, but if it isn't normal, how do I fix it?

Oh yah, and another vote for pictures of the finished water-cooling unit.

-Alex

WOW thats 5mm of play. Sounds like something is missing.

[Unobjectionable]

yeah thats probably 5x what it should be...i have noticed when the center is sloppy loose, it will try to creep around under the torque, and you will see weird swirly marks on the clutchbell...thats a bad thing

chris, your project is lookin kinda cool...you will go down in history as the owner/inventor of the first water cooled landmax...i think i have an idea to refine your resevoir/radiator, gimme a minute to draw and scan a pic

[Unobjectionable]

eheh...here it is, fear my doodles

kinda like a giant water jacketed water cooling block for pcs like alex mentioned, more surface area for cooling (the coils inside the box and the heatsink outside) than just pumping hot water into a box, and a two stage cooling system to drop as much heat as quickly as possible...no charge for any ideas this may give you

p.s. keep in mind the cooling system will become pressurized after the water heats up, adding some automotive coolant will help (by raising the boiling point of plain water), but a small vent to the outside may be necessary...that will take some experimenting...also, make sure that pump can handle the heat

p.p.s. and note that pump could be almost anywhere in the chain, i just put it there arbitrarily...it would probably stay a little cooler being "upstream" of the engine

[Redfox]

Yeah i figured that this simple system wouldn't be effective as it possibly could be... your idea of the internal coil in the water box is awesome. It would sure as hell do a better job of removing the heat... reminds me of a nuclear powered generator! Hehehehe...

There are quite a few probs that i can already identify with my system... first of all the alu box is too thick... it adds too much weight and really needn't be more than 1.5mm thick... also i would get a water pump that is designed to have a slightly smaller throughput and less draw on the battery... 12V@2A is not necessary and the way it is now will prolly drain my batteries pretty quickly...

I would like to make a coil that fits inside the heatsink head of the engine because then there would be more surface area contacting the head than there is right now... but that would be a project for another rainy day...

Another suggestion that my bro made which he reckons (And i agree) will be a much more effective way of cooling is a fine mist on the heatsink. Apparently they use this technique on full scale cars and basically just spray a fine mist of water on the engine which evaporates off takin the heat away.

I would put the water reservoir on the other side of the car in a tube like the exhaust pipe and just have a spray nozzle overhead to spray a fine mist. Even a smallish easily refillable fuel tank would do the trick easily.

It might need the use of a positive displacement pump as opposed to the centrifugal one that i have right now to make sure that the mist is coming through. Because it does need a certain pressure to mist the water, or else it just won't flow.

I tell you what would really get my jollies!! A pump powered off the engine... either off the existing fan pulley or if you have a 2 speed, then maybe a lathed groove in the flywheel... (and seeing as i have two of them now, the new one being from the 2speed, i can experiment) then you could do away with heavy extra batteries and water pumps!

Then the only weight issue would be the water reservoir, but i don't think you would need that much water for a fine mist. Hey who knows, if you have a 3 channel radio you could rig the third channel up for activating the mist! =]
Now that would be funky!! Oh i never realised how creative you could get wiv r/c cars! hehehe

Although ya gotta realise that if i had a decent engine in the first place i wouldn't have to cool the engine using other meanz!!! But it's gotta be cool to be able to say to your racing buddies, "Wait up a sec mate, i just gotta refill my coolant system!" :D

[Unobjectionable]

ehehe i dunno about the mist thing, makes me nervous

and don't spend too much money on this trying to get it to work when you could just buy a REAL ENGINE....eehehe

[SixVi6]

Oh geez.. a water cooling system? hehe.. Red do you have a t-maxx? because I though only guys with t-maxxes try such things. lol.. oh well. I agree with Unob. don't put a tom of cash into this setup. it may work ok but heck there are other engines that don't need water cooling that will make a lot more power.


well I'm looking into getting a starter box. After I get the T-maxx all squared away I'll be getting a good engine for the LM2. This Hyper is just a pain. it runs great for a while then starts this stalling crap now its even doing it with the megatech carb on there. If the XTM 24.7 is as strong as people say I just may get one for the LM2 I'm not sure if it will mount on the LM2's motor mounts though because the pull start is rather large and there is no non pull start model so I may be screwed. but mabey I can use the non pull start from the XTM .21 pro and get the pull start pin out of the 24.7's crank. hmmm... or just use some washers and raise up the 24.7 until the pull start clears.

[Redfox]

hehehe i always wanted a T-MAXX!! don't get me thinkin about it ok?! Nah i know i can get a better engine which is what i will do in a lil while, but for the time being, this sorta stuff will keep me amused! =]

[Redfox]

Or i could just get a new GS-21R heatsink head... apparently they work real good...

[Pr0k]

[QUOTE].Or i could just get a new GS-21R heatsink head... apparently they work real good

They are an improvement but will still run hot, from what I have read on the boards...

[Unobjectionable]

yeah, just send me the $80aus the head would cost and i will send you a whole GS-21 to run the piss out of

seriously, don't put any more money into that engine than necessary

[Unobjectionable]

everybody but siv6 can look at this stuff (hehe)..notice they also sell pairs of "hardened" hingepins that would work on LM1

http://www.teamtrinity.com/accessories/kfactory.asp
http://www.kfactoryracing.com/

and some pics of some of the kanai 2 parts

http://www.three5models.co.uk/7_5_kan2_data.htm

p.s. racers edge now has their own line of sweet looking 7.5 goodies, i will shut up now

[Pr0k]

HAHA you are like a crack dealer just dangle the goodies!

[SixVi6]

Unob.. you stinkin.. ohh geez.. that is some pretty stuff. I like that K factory rear toe in bracket. interesting design. and that diff mount with the built in brake slots. hmmm...

lol.. just thought of this.. I'm now running an mp7.5 flysheel, clutch, and 16t kyosho clutchbell on my t-maxx and have the 7.5 diff conversion on the way. slowly it seems my t-maxx is turining into a 7.5. lol.. monday I'll have the XTM and after I break it in and get it running I'll let yall know how it runs.


oh.. lol.. I bought a 17t ofna 1/8 clutchbell from tower.. funny thing I got it today and was excited and riped it open then realized it was a 14t clutchbell.. ?? so I grab the package and it says 17t..?? what the? oh well.. the 14t will be good for the day when I get a 7.5 buggy because I know I'm already thinking about it.

Check this post in the BST forum (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=90605)
He selling not one... not 2.. nor 3.. but 4 LMs.. 2 LM2's and 2 LM1s! prices are not bad at all either considerig that they are all RTR wiht some nice radio gear.

[Unobjectionable]

hmmmm....so could you use the rcalloys 2 shoe aluminum deal on a LM/7.5/whatever? (yes i read the tmaxx forum sometimes, ehehe don't tell)

i saw a real life supermaxx chassis the other day, that is a nice piece of work, beautifully machined and oh so blingish...shame to scratch it up ehehe

p.s. just be glad i didn't post pics of the racers edge stuff, very "industrial" looking (sort of light gold color) and supposedly made out of the strongest aluminum known to man (or something)...so do not click here (http://www.paranormals.com/temp3/racersedge75/)

[Unobjectionable]

eheh colortrix...we have talked before in other folders, i wasn't sure if he was just lurking or never found this thread

[Pr0k]

He will never get that kind of money for used gear unless it is someone that has seen it.

[SixVi6]

Nope I tried it. the RC alloys clutch is tiny. even if you did try it I doubt the clutch will contact the clutchbell right at the end of the shoe and there still is just not the surface area on the t-maxx cltuch to hold a .21. that is why most of the .21 maxx guys are upgrading to 1/8 buggy setups.

ahh.. you! I could not help but click of course. the Racers edge stuff looks really thick. hmm.. now I just don't know what to buy.

Here is a pic (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/clutch.jpg) from left to right... a 22t t-maxx clutchbell , a stock t-maxx clutch, a stock 15t LM2 bell, and the ofna 17t packaged 14t clutchbell. and the maxx clutch is roughly 1/4" smaller dia than the LM2's stock clutch.

edit and Here is another pic (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/clutch2.jpg) of the same stuff from the top. :)

ohh and I miscounted.. the ofna clutchbell that was in the 17t labeled package was actually a 13t.

[Unobjectionable]

ahhh i thought it was for a 21 setup...[edit] and buggy clutch bell...damn that ofna one is a monster

eheh sorry for the temptation...don't go too crazy or you will wind up with a $2000 buggy you can't race...ehehe

wouldn't you rather have carbon fiber LM2 towers, steering plate and center diff cover?...hmmmmmm

[SixVi6]

Nope all the t-maxx .21 conversions use the stock .15 flywheel, clutch, and clutchbells. it was not until about a few weeks ago that the ability to run actual .21 setups with ease was a good option.

hehe.. well I do have a $2000 t-maxx that I beat the snot out off and get dirty so what the heck! I'll build a matching $2000 buggy! lol..

Yeah I was hoping the ofna bell would be a cheaper replacement for the kyosho clutchbell but nope, its too long to run on the t-maxx anyways. oh well.

[Unobjectionable]

and you can always buy a few more parts and be able to convert it from LM2 to 7.5 (and back) on demand! eheh sorry

[SixVi6]

actually I've been thinking of getting a 7.5 buggy to race with. hehe.. I took the maxx to the off road track a few weeks back and just can't believe the speed and handling that the buggies have off road but... on second thought after I get this round of stuff done on the Tmaxx I can parobably keep right up with the buggies depending of the driver.

more XTM 24.7 info.. its looking like a super powerfull engine... I just downloaded a huge vid of a full supermaxx truck with a 24.7 powering it.. wow! can we say insane. the truck in the vid is much heavier than mine in the 11 lb range wihle mineis in the 9.5 range. I'm actually kinda worried now about the stock diffs in my t-maxx after seeing the vid. eeek.. 24.7 in a t-maxx vid. (http://pub13.ezboard.com/fmaxximumtraxxaspostyourridehere.showMessage?topic ID=4546.topic)

edit.. they moved the thread on me.. the link works now..

[jeroen]

I also want too have a XTM 24.7 into my landmax and madforce.
I only want too know if it is relaible
The link isn't working it says the post you selected doesn't exsist
Can you arange that vid for me,or give us a other link too a vid with the XTM 24.7

Thanks already:eek:

[SixVi6]

hmmm.. they moved the thread to a different part of the maxxtraxx forum. the above link works now. ohh the vids are huge.. I mean HUGE! 14mins long and 140mb.

I'll have an XTM 24.7 by monday. It will go into my t-maxx but one other reason I'm looking into getting it is the possibility of droping it ino my LM2 as well. I have a Hyper .21 and an 18t clutchbell in my LM2 now but its just sooo pickey on the tuning. I'll let everybody know how the 24.7 runs on my t-maxx and give it a shot on my LM2 wiht the same gearing to do a comparison test.

redfox I found an excelent engine for you to run since you are into the water cooling.. RB C5 marine.. (http://www.rbproducts.com/rbww/engines3.5/1005m.htm) yeah... this water cooled mill would get you LM moving even if you used a 1 liter bottle of water for cooling. haha..

[Unobjectionable]

looks pretty peppy, especially in a such a heavy truck...should be just about right for an almost 4 pound lighter landmax (or even a tmaxx!)...ehehe

thanks for the link, thats a cool video...his little playground there is neat also...makes me wanna set the mower extra low and go cut the backyard down to the dirt

hard to believe the stock tmaxx trannys last as long as they do in the video, i can almost hear the little white plastic gears in there, screaming for freedom...almost hurts to watch when he kills that first one..eheh...and i like how he included the stock .15 maxx, just plain sad by comparison...traxxas should be sued for selling a truck with so much potential, and so little actual performance..

damn i am glad there are no tmaxx owners reading this, i would get flamed fer shure

and oh yeah, why does that guy have his ue diffs and you dont?

are you still running the hyper carb? might as well put that megatech one back on and enjoy the thing some

i can just see the C5 marine powered landmax "oh, i have to use 40% or it runs too cold" eheheh

[SixVi6]

well the purple and blue maxx in the vid is a complete supermaxx wihtthe tranny and all so that tranny won't break. but that hyper powered old ford body'd truck.. ouch. with the money that he must have in tranny parts to just keep replacing them he could have bought two SuperMaxx trannys. the maxes though when they first came out were really impressive but now yeah.. they are such poor performers. If I was going to go the maxx route right now I'd build from scratch using almost all aftermarket parts.

I'll have the 24.7 in an hour or so. I had them ship it FEdEx so I can go to the warehouse and pick it up after I get home. Nobody is ever home to sign for this stuff during the day.

hehe.. he has the diffs because he is earlier on the list. it was a first come first serve thing begining on the 4th of july... I was out so I did't get to order till the 5th. there are quite a few people ahead of me. :(

I'm running the Hyper carb still. I think the problem I'm having now are all because the engine is soooo pickey to tune. I swear the air temp drops 1 deg or the umidity changes just a little and it throws it all off and starts stalling or running rich. I usually turn the high end back out about 1/2 turn rich when I first fire it up and slowly lean it till its running strong and it runs great then. It just takes some getting used to.

Hehe.. and the hyper .21 plus a big 17or 18t clutchbell is the way to go. keep the hyper in the low RPM range and it's excelent. I bet the 24.7 would be the same with lots of low end power. I can't wait to go and pick the 24.7 up!

[SixVi6]

I got the 24.7.. lets just say that they share a lot. I droped the megatech carb and the heat sink onto the 24.7 for that sleepr style.. haha..

here are the pics..

the XTM sleeper style on my t-maxx (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_01.jpg)

The sleve form the XTM and the sleve form the megatech .21 (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_02.jpg)

side by side apart, XTM and Megatech .21 (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_03.jpg)

side by side apart, XTM and Megatech .21 part II (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_04.jpg)

Carbs part I (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_05.jpg)

Carbs part II (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_06.jpg)

The Case's side by side.. (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_07.jpg)

[Unobjectionable]

eheh i read your post in the tmaxx forum first, then jumped over here to harass you for holding out on us...and voila!

excellent pics, i am looking forward to hearing the official verdict...odd looking crank ports on the xtm (or is it just me?)...looks like a footprint from a 3 toed sloth or something...

and you know you want to break it in on the landmax...

*prays the steel spur doesn't show up*

eheheh

[jeroen]

I drove my landmax for the fist time ,since i had my madforce that is about five weeks ago.
I had cleaned and maintained the landmax in the past weekend,
So it was ready for a drive.
I went too the biggest parking lot in my neighborhood, and drove the landmax, since i only drove my madforce the couple of weeks, I was really astonished about the stock landmax speed and good handling.
It was again fun too drive my landmax the only thing that wasn't really fun is that the engine is pretty worn so i must get fast a new faster engine for it because it is such a cool car too drive.

I'm thinking of buying one engine that fits the landmax and madforce as well, the engine must perform good on both cars, any suggestion for an good engine.
I thought myself about the XTM 24.7 with a paris al650 pipe on it.
Or a O.S 21 RG-X(P) maybe with the cvec exhaust on it, is this a better exhaust then the al 650.
I like yhe concept of the cvec pipes, but i do not hear anybody talking about it , why is this , was it just a hype.

I'm still waiting a long time for some tuning parts for my landmax, I think I'm waiting for more than four months now.
This includes The carbon rear shockstay, the steel brake's twospeed clutchshoe and the flywheel and spacers.

I there a three piece clutch flywheel for the landmax I can not find it on towers Only the mp6 and higher one's are mentioned there.

[SixVi6]

the only problem with putting the 24.7 on the LM's is the pull start is large and there is no non-pull 24.7. I don't know about the LM1's but It won't work on my LM2 unless you can shim it up a few mm's or make it a non pull.

hehe... yeah the porting on the 24.7 is just strange looking but it looks good. Interesting though the Ofna .25 is a bored P4 and the XTM 24.7 is a bored Megatech long stroke .21 and because of the added displacement of the 24.7 I'm going to get a larger head for it. Either the XTM .21 pro head or a long stroke megatech .21 head should fit the bill. I decided right away to not use the stock 24.7 head though. thats not anno on that head.. its a nice heat insulating layer of paint!! Iv'e also heard several people break fins off the stock head when when it takes a hit. hehe.. well I though about droping the 24.7 onto the LM2 but heck now that it looks almost Identical to the megatech I want to have some fun with my friends... I can see it now. "No its the same ol megatech .21. All I did was do some super secret porting tricks on it. Why is it faster?" lol.. how it looked with the megatech .21 (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/sm_07.jpg)
How it looks with the 24.7 (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_01.jpg) lol..


OMG.. I just saw this post on Maxxtraxx. RB WS7 pull start conversion kit (http://pub13.ezboard.com/fmaxximumtraxxasfrm35.showMessage?topicID=5939.top ic&pollResults=on) hmm even talks of a pull start C5. I swear Robin (the mastermind of Unlimited Engineering) is going to put me in the poor house! all he needs to do is make LM2 hop ups and I'll be totally broke!

[SixVi6]

well I've heat cycled the 24.7 and idled it through a half tank while sitting in front of a box fan on a low setting. the spur gear had better be here tomorow. its ready to be easily driven around nice and rich. ohhh.. I can't wait.

[Unobjectionable]

ehehe anticipation is a killer...hope the mailman had a present for you today...

jeroen, you can use the MP-6 3 shoe flywheel on the landmax (and probably on the mad force as well), there are two different versions (IFW-50/51) that differ in thickness, for the different types of engines (OS and italian) and this will affect how the clutch bell lines up with the spur gear, so you should decide on what engine you will end up with before buying either...

btw, i LOVE cvec pipes, they make even a stock GS 21 run stronger...the only downside of cvecs is that they aren't legal for sanctioned racing, which isnt even an issue for a LM or MF...

also, i think most pullstart engines are a little awkward on the BS-25 mounts unless you either grind away a little of the mounting blocks, or just shim it up a little with washers...i guess the 7.5 parts are the same way

[SixVi6]

Yes.. I got the spur gear for the Maxx and a starter box for the LM2. Hyper .21's just have soo much compression I've broken the pull start three times since I've gotten it. This will save my hands and my pull starter. Time to go and sweat outside in front of a couple fans in the garage. its like 92 deg with high humidity but I don't care! lol..

[SixVi6]

:eek: !!! I broke in the 24.7 and it was impressive to say the least. it was an eazy and uneventfull breakin. The piston and sleve in the 24.7 is not nearly as tight as the hyper .21 and I rather like it. I'd give up a bit of longevity for an easier breakin any day especially with an engine that has parts easily and relatively cheaply available. Also I did not use a lick of sealer on the XTM even after I took it apart and have had no air leaks. anyways.. How is the power? well let me tall you about titanium skidplates and cement..

I got 5 tanks through it letting it cool between tanks. and slowly leanign it out. at the end of the last tank I leaned it out till it was running strong but still a bit rich and set the low end needle. Then, while on the grass I nailed the throttle and watched my t-maxx wheelie so hard it fliped straight onto its lid. In shock, I ran over and flipped it over and tried it again on the cement and whack! pulls a violent wheelie whacks the rear titanium skid against the cement sending white sparks off it, catching air as I slam the brake to bring the nose back down. basically I did an ollie with the t-maxx. I continued to run it till the tank ran out then it started to rain.

Basically powerfull is an understatement for the 24.7.. I beieve in an LM with a large clutchbell would make for one sick setup. I'm hopfully going to do a side by side test of the hyper vs 24.7 using identical greaing and clutch setups. I think the winner will be the 24.7 in the battle though just from the initial runing.

Ohh and thus far the 24.7 seems to love the OS A3 that I had laying around because the LHS is all out of MC59's.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

I have all the parts for the three speed (Mad Force) for my landmax project. I would really like to have a copy of the Mad force instruction book, especially the pages that deal with the 3 speed specifically. Can anyone out there help me get a scanned copy of the booklet? The blowup pictures of the tranny really helped (thanks guys!!!) but I would like to have all available info on this tranny so I dont mess anything up (especially since Ill have to do some "minor " modifications to get it to "fit").


SixVi6, that new mill you have sounds great...put that sucker in the MAX (landmax that is ) and give us a report.

[SixVi6]

hehe.. yup thats the plan for the weekend. I was thinkng of running them both on the MAxxxx but then realized that I'd have to spin the carb around on the hyper to run it on the maxx and realizing what a problem sealing the hyper is I decided to do the comparison on the LM2 instead so I would not have to mess with the settings of the hyper.

[jeroen]

I'll will scan all the importent stuff that is in the manual of the madforce 3-speed this weekend, for you

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Thanks Jerone that will be great.


btw, Tower is offering the Landmax alfa romeo for $313.99 if you are one of their "Super Saver members" (#EH2014). Also they have the Duratrax multi disc brake system for the inferno for $19.99 (#EH1050).

Tower now has the aluminum 3 piece clutch shoes (ifw136) for $18.95 and the hard 1.1 cltch springs (ifw053h).

[Unobjectionable]

they were also selling the alfa for less than $300 in the "daily sale" section, but their site is messed up at the moment (*edit - seems to be back up now)...i'm glad they finally got the kanai 2 clutch in, that should be a great setup, and pretty too! (eheh)...

if you don't mind my asking, what's the rough cost of buying all the 3 speed parts separately? i haven't bothered to add it all up, but thinking $150+ easily...i'm guessing you bought a complete GTW-20 and enough of the mad force specific parts for it to work ie: shaft, 3rd gear and clutch hubs etc...

i did the math on the important part though, the 3 speed should be good for a touch over 55mph@35K rpm in an LM2, and about 63mph@35K rpm in the LM1 (higher gearing in the gearboxes donchaknow), both with low profile (3.5") tires...and either car should accelerate to it's respective top speed BLINDINGLY quickly, we are talking motorcycle fast here...

i will hopefully have a mad force manual next week sometime, i will get scans and put them on the website for future reference for all of us..eheh...i think it must not be too hard to adjust, as i haven't really heard any MF owners complain about it...

btw jeroen, i am BOOCAKE4U over at ezbored/maxxtraxx, in case you were wondering who that jerk is...haha

john - sounds like that xtm is working out well, and i am very glad to hear it after "the hyper experience" eheh...thanks again for all the excellent info

[jeroen]

Bukkake Is there any forum on the internet that you do not visit?

You're every where.

Can you tell me what is happening with the landmax /landmax2 forum at nitroreview, I think it's slowly dies away.

It was my first real forum I read, I learn't alot from it.

But luckily This forum isn't goinig too die away verry soon I hope.

It think this is only real landmax forum left.

[Unobjectionable]

yeah, hpi and traxxass HAHAHAA

nitroreview has been kinda slow lately, dunno where emrys has been, maybe i will send him an email

i know there are some landmax owners out there who don't know about any of the forums (or just don't post eheh), the trick is making them aware...the LM2 seems to be catching on some, that might help...

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Price for all the MF three speed parts is about $92 (another $25 added to this if you dont already have the oneway hub from the 2speed). This doesnt include the price of the ball bearings needed to replace the bushings. I know this is pretty expensive but this is my hobby, and like I told my wife I could be into stuff more pricey such as real cars, motorcycles or worse yet sitting my ass at the bar all day and drinking....
I have been continuing my reasearch on the "perfect" engine for this project and I might break down and go with the feared RB c5.
From what Ive read this engine is insane and I want this project car to make people who see it say holly s#$* !!! I really dont care if I cant handle the car like a full blooded race machine, Ijust want a car that can smoke just about anything in a straight line and look good doing it. Any one have any info about this or any other engine that is just as insane? (but not to exotic...I would like to be able to get spare parts when needed). All that have written about the c5 are in ageement about its power but there are many conlicting views about its other aspects (some say easy to tune others say "finiky", some say reliable others say tempermental, some say wears wel, others says it goes through pistons and sleeves very quickly,etc,etc.) Does anyoe know of any sites where I can get some objective and reliable info about this engine?

[Unobjectionable]

as far i have seen, the majority of C4/5 users are *cough* tmaxx drivers...the general consensus among even serious buggy guys seems to be that is that it is way too much for anything but the biggest track, and delivers it's power in a very "turbo-like" way, meaning pretty soft on the low end (this would probably still be impressive on a LM with the smaller wheels) and absolutely ballistic once it comes on the pipe...(think 4 cyl. with a big turbo, my mom used to have an automatic fwd 4 cyl single turbo 180hp dodge shadow that was downright scary to drive...punch the gas, wait for it to downshift and spool up, then try to keep it from torque-steering off the road when the power all hit at once, god i hated that car)

i don't have any good links for you on the thing as far as the tuning/durability aspects, because i haven't seen that many people using them...the nitro forum here or the engine forum at maxxtraxx would probably be a good place to look/ask...the engine is based on a novarossi though, so i would expect their (very good) reputation can be carried over to the rb concept engines for the most part...

if it were my money, i think i would have to try the S7 (europa)...about $210 at ace, not a bad deal for a genuine racing class 7 port engine with a pedigree...should still be very punchy in a landmax, and have some incredible top end...and is still common enough to not be too hard to find parts for...

bottom line, the HOLY S%#T factor on anything 2hp or over will be almost guaranteed to bring a smile to your face, especially with that 3 speed...i think you will be surprised at just how fast your car is...

not a bad deal on those parts, could you list the stuff from that order and save me some trouble? i'm just curious to see the total parts list, plus i'm thinking this might turn out to be a popular mod, wouldn't hurt to have it here for posterity...eheh

[jeroen]

You also could try the RB concept forum for information about the C5
http://www.rbproducts.com/rbww/ubb/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi

[XysteR]

Ok here goes.. My mk1 landmax ran great that last time i used it.. I left it alone for a few months and eventually brought it over here to belgium with me. Now, i took it out the other day and it took me nearly 2 hours before i managed to get it to start.. It fired up and i had a good 15 mins blast around. Everything was fine but after i let it cool down i had an equally hard time to get it to start. It used to start great and first time everytime. Can someone give me full instruction on getting it started and tuning it to run well and start reliably? i've fiddled around for a while trying to start it again and the last settings were:

2 1/8 turns out on the high speed needle

The air/fuel screw near throttle link is set just so the groove dissapears (you'll know this groove if you have a MK1)

The idle screw is set to the same as its always been since i built the car with about 1 mil gap looking into the carb at idle

Thx in advance

Xy

[XysteR]

Ok here goes.. My mk1 landmax ran great that last time i used it.. I left it alone for a few months and eventually brought it over here to belgium with me. Now, i took it out the other day and it took me nearly 2 hours before i managed to get it to start.. It fired up and i had a good 15 mins blast around. Everything was fine but after i let it cool down i had an equally hard time to get it to start. It used to start great and first time everytime. Can someone give me full instruction on getting it started and tuning it to run well and start reliably? i've fiddled around for a while trying to start it again and the last settings were:

2 1/8 turns out on the high speed needle

The air/fuel screw near throttle link is set just so the groove dissapears (you'll know this groove if you have a MK1)

The idle screw is set to the same as its always been since i built the car with about 1 mil gap looking into the carb at idle

Thx in advance

Xy

[Unobjectionable]

hi xy, try richening up the top end a little bit...a fresh plug might help too...and i'm assuming the fuel has not been sitting as long as the car has...eheh

p.s. jeroen, good idea on the rb forum, i didn't think to check

[XysteR]

Bugger jiggery! Could someone kindly tell me how far out from fully closed my low to mid range air/fuel mix screw should be on my MK1 landmax (bluehead) GS21? I've fiddled about and forgot the original setting.. I had it written down but thats on a piece of paper or summin at home in england so with me now living in belgium im a bit stuck to get it. No use askin my mother cos she aint got a clue where her purse is let alone any of my stuff lol

Oh throw in your high end needle setting too cos they kinda go hand in hand

Thx in advance

Xy

P.S i installed a new no 8 os plug, fuel is new also but still very hard to start. takes ages. I got the blisters to proove it! Yesterday it started once in nearly 2 hours of pulling. Had a good 15 mins play tho & it ran well and fast

[jeroen]

I've got the main needle sit at 2 too 2,5 turns from closed position
And the air fuel needle tighten until the groove disappears, but sometimes I turn it in or out a little bit.

But I also shout check the engine inside, it can do no harm too take the engine apart onces in a while.

The blue head gs21r is just a strange engine, sometimes it runs good and others times I can shoot the damn engine for not running at all.

I've also got the orange head gs21r And this engine is much easier too tune and runs always fine by me, and running cooler than the bluehead once's they simply run too hot when you lean those once's, but you must lean it because they other wise doesn't perform well enough, and that is where they are made for.

[XysteR]

Well today i began to strip the whole car down to give it a good clean & lube. After i'd cleaned the motor i started to dismantle to check for obvious problems. I checked for pinch between my sleve and piston and all was well with a nice bit of resistance coming up to tdc. I kinda knew this would be ok because the car aint been used much at all. Then i checked other obvious things and upon me coming to the conclusion that all was well on the engine side i just knew it must be the carb. It made it even more obvious because of the starting difficulties. Firstly i found a split on the underside of the rubber boot that keeps the dirt out of the throttle mechanism of the carb but i kinda bypassed this as being my main problem. Next i checked my fuel tank and all was well there. Then i turned my attention to the high speed needle. I removed the high speed needle and attached some clean fuel tubing to the fuel inlet and blew quite hard but i felt a lot of resistance and no air flow. So i huffed. And i puffed. And i blew until my lungs nearly popped, and all of a sudden i heard a satisfying little pop then a lovely hiss and my high pressure air blew freely through my carb! Yip fekin eeee i think i found my problem! When i looked inside of where my high speed needle belongs i could see what had blocked my carb. It apeared to be a small 1.5mm round piece of yellow sponge! Well i think this just has to be the problem solved. I can try anything at the min because my whole car is in bits getting cleaned and lubed. Ah well, phew. Problem solved. It seems the blockage did not come through the fuel line. And i kinda knew the fuel line was fine because it was one of the first things i checked. It seems to me The small piece of sponge came off my filter, managed to get inside the carb via the small split in the rubber carb boot and then somehow managed to travel its way over to the high speed needle end. Oh well. we all learn everyday but i aint half learned from this one. Its had me bamboozled for a good while now.

Oh jeroen thx for the reply post. I'm in antwerp. Do you know where i can get landmax parts over here? I moved here from newcastle UK about 6 months ago and i used to get my parts in england. I need a new rubber boot for my carb and a new air filter.

Thx in advance

Xy

[Unobjectionable]

well done, that was probably it...your carb settings sound fine but heres the page from the manual for reference if you need it later (the rest of the manual is there also)

http://***********/gp20/Reference/eng02.gif

not sure what to tell you about the parts, i thought ripmax was the big (only?) distributor in europe...jeroen probably has a shop he can recommend though

[XysteR]

Thx for the suggestions and link Unobjectionable. By the way my landmax is standard. Even standard shocks but i still love the way the landmax handles. I've had it now for about 2-3 years i think and i've only ever had a few problems. I'll state these problems now and maybe i could get some tips about avoiding them.

My first ever problem was the screws that mount the motor to the chassis. Basically they came loose 2 days after i made the car and resulted in my clutchbell gear ripping teeth off my main spur gear like a dentist on speed. This resulted in me buying a new spur gear which i fitted without trouble. I used 4 locking washers with the 4 screws to be sure they didn't come loose again. Anyone got alternative tips about this problem because after me dismantling my car i feel the locking washers are only good for one lock then they have to be renewed.

My second problem was the one way bearing for the pullstart. I had to pay £21 quid for a new one way bearing a few months back when i used the car more often. Now im startin to use it again i can feel that occasionally its starting to slip again :-( I've pumped some light oil into the starter and added some spray grease and oil to the bearings and crank etc t otry to help but anyother tips about this problem would be useful to me.

I'm also thinking about making something to start the car from the flywheel. Does anyone have suggestions of what to use to make a device for starting from the flywheel to save pulling the cord? i dont really wanna spend on a commercial one because from what i gather they seem simple enough devices. Anyway suggestions on how to make a landmax flywheel starter would be handy.

Thx in advance

Xy

[Unobjectionable]

no prob...try using some loctite on the motor mounts...i use the blue stuff and they hold fine...i get the mesh set and tighten everything down, then loosen one screw, hit it with a drop of loctite and tighten it back down, repeat etc...

i haven't had any problems with the one-way bearing...they can be cleaned when they start slipping...i spray em out with WD-40 and just wipe the shaft off and pop it back on...haven't had one fail yet

you could probably rig up a little bump starter...cordless drill with a little "starter attachment" ie: a bolt with four nuts and a starter wheel on it

[XysteR]

Great! I'll look for some blue loctite when i go into town tomorrow. I'm wondering what material to use for the disc that will grip the flywheel enough to turn it. Should it be hard rubber or something like that? I could cut a disc from plywood and attach a bolt to the middle to connect it to my cordless drill and attach something around the outside of the disc that turns the flywheel over. What material do the commercial starters use that grips the flywheel firmly?

Only been to this forum a day or two. Its great for advice and generally a good read for tips etc.. Thx again for the promt replies and great tips

Xy

[Pr0k]

The commercial ones I have seen use use rubber and you
bump the flywheel with it.

[Unobjectionable]

sure thing...btw, what body is on your car?

the starter boxes and bump starters all have fairly hard rubber or "rubber-like" wheels, perhaps you could find a model airplane wheel that would work...i had picked one up once with a similar idea in mind, but never got around to trying it...but if you can get a replacement wheel for a starter box at a local shop, that would probably be ideal

[XysteR]

I'm using the subaru shell. It looked so great when i first built the car.. I spent a whole day on the shell alone. Done in original metalic blue and every decal perfectly placed with the richard burns option. Now its lookin a little tatty few decals starting to come away. few splits in the front etc. i'm gonna tidy it up a bit after i've finished cleaning & reassembly tomorrow. I'll take a look in the rc shop in antwerp for a replacement wheel for a starter box & see what happens, another good idea that :-) Thx again

lol i just ran my finger through 5mm thick of oil & dust etc down the inside of my chassis. I done the same in different places all over the car & its still brand new underneath. Just gotta get it off tomorrow eeeek! It aint been cleaned in about 7 months. I had it near kielder forest way back then and it was dirty when i took it there. After leaving kielder it was clogged even thicker with reddish ashy goo from the forest roads. The sheeps shite & gd knows whatelse has preserved it lol

I just had a quick go at cleaning the engine a bit. The black sheeps poo & god knows what seems a bit cooked on at the manifold. Whats the best stuff to clean the engine up like new? And for that matter what should i use to clean the rest of the car?

Xy

[KIRK S. DECKER]

For general cleaning I take off the radio tray and the carb (then cover the carb outlet with a rubber cap that I found to fit) and spray the car down with either denatured alcohol or a product they have here in the USA called Simple Green (this stuff is great...it cuts grease and grime, is non-toxic, and does not harm plasics). Ill let this sit for a few minutes (scrub with toothbrush where needed) then spray off with water. I then use air compressor to dry off the car then spray wd40 to the chassis, suspension, etc. (wiping off excess with a rag.) Note that I seal my gear cases to the chasis with clear silicone and this generally keeps the water out. If the gear boxes are not sealed moisture may get in and rust any steel parts.
The engine body and manifold can also be cleaned with denatured alcohol and a scrub brush. For real tough grime on the engine case and manifold you can disassemble these parts from the rest of the engine and spray these down with oven cleaner (be careful, this stuff is nasty and will destroy skin, eyes, and any anodized parts).
The above is for really thorough cleaning...most of the time a quick spray with the air compressor and some toothbrush scubbing gets the job done.
Bukkake, I will get that three speed "price list" posted soon. I was going to do it right now but I can hardly keep my eyes open.

[Redfox]

Hey y'all, haven't posted for a while. Infact to tell you the truth, i haven't touched the LM for about 2 weeks now. :eek:
I have been fantasizing about R/C choppers and how much money i could throw down the toilet wiv one of them! BUt how fun would it be!!! Mmmmmmmmmm... drooooool!! But i prolly won't get one for a while (or at least not until i get me a job!)

Anywayz back to the real world now... my escort body has a sizable crack in the front. I think it's from when i was jumping the car off a fairly big jump at castle hill wiv theo. I've tried gaffa and also fibre tape, but none of them friggin well stick!! What do you suggest i do to repair this crack? I was thinking of epoxying another strip of lexan on the back, but i figured that would prolly just rip the paint off... so i'm in a bit of a jam.

Also, Xyster, about that bump starter you are thinking of making. You might be best just investing some money getting a second hand one. Cos seriously, you kinda need to spend a bit to make a decent bump starter. One thing i reckon is a must, Some sort of box or plate you can hold the car down onto to start it. I swear it's almost impossible to hold your car and then bump start it with a hand held device. Cos it takes a lot of grip and power to turn these fuel consuming paperweights over (well a paperweight in my case :D hehehe)!!! I tried it once wiv a mate. We glued some fuel line, that had been cut down the length of it, onto an old spur gear and mounted it in a drill. Even tho it gripped, it didn't grip enough, and it was a ***** trying to hold it onto the flywheel. So i would save yourself the trouble and just buy a proper starter box. I've been keepin my eyes out for one cos my arm is tired!!:mad:

Anywayz i'll get it going in the next coupla days... uni has been cruel to me and i stuffed up a lotta subjects last session.

Cheers, Chris :D

[KIRK S. DECKER]

REDFOX

Here in the USA there is a product available called Shoe Goo that you can get at any hardware store for about $3.00. It is kind of like a "super" rubber cement. The way I repair my lexan bodies is to first temporarily tape the outside of the body with packing tape to close the crack as tight as posible. Then I liberaly apply the Goo to the inside of the body (over the crack) then let dry over night. When dry remove the tape. The shoe goo is very flexible and strong...I've never had a repaired crack break again after repairing it in this mannner. In fact I often use the goo to "prevent " cracks by applying it to all weak areas of my off-road bodies (wheel wells, the bottom edges, the stinger outlet ,.etc.) This really seems to strengthen up the bodies. You should be able to find this product (or one similar to it )at the hardware store or on the net... I think I've seen show goo sold under Duratrax name and packaging at the lhs. Hope this helps.

[SixVi6]

well.. I ran the LM2 on sunday first with the Hyper .21. Then with the identical gearing using an 18t clutchbell and heavy duty kyosho clutch setup with a high stall spring and gutted CVEC pipe I ran the 24.7. In my opinion in sheer low end stump pulling torque the 24.7 has it hands down but where the 24.7 fails is topend RPM. The hyper will get off the line with a bit of wheelspin and continue to pull until it gets into some good revs but the 24.7 really tries to rip all four tires off the car and pulls hard through the mid then falls off. The 24.7 just does not rev as high as the hyper. I've actually been running the Hyper today with a 17t clutchbell which gives it a very 24.7 like wheels spinning launch and still good top speed.

Another place where the XTM shines is in the tunning and running. The XTM starts eazy, tunes great and was an eazy breakin. the 24.7 runs incredibly strong and reliably without any stalling and temps seem fine (I need to borow a temp gun to check them for sure) but the hyper.. sheesh.. tuning is a pain, the breakin was a nightmare and it still likes to stall once in a while and runs best when its leaner. All of the breakin pains are from the super super tight psiton and sleve or poor o rings on the carb. the hyper may last a gallon or two longer because of the tight p/s but it also takes a gallon of headaches, cursing, frustration to get the piston and sleve loose enough and the engine sealed well enough to be at all reliable and run strong.

I can't say for sure whigh is better. they are both close to eachother in price and power wise the hyper has a wider rpm range but the 24.7 has the insane torque. the XTM needs a different heatsink head. the stock one will break eazy and the added cooling is always a plus but the hyper requires sealing and carefull attention to settings and a bottle of asprin during breakin. Its a tie in my book although I lean a bit more toward the 24.7 because I'm still having flashbacks of the hyper .21's breakin.

John.

[Unobjectionable]

eheheh...excellent review john, how would you say the xtm compares to the older megatech in terms of max rpm? going back over your comparison pics, the xtm rod doesn't look any longer, so i guess the extra displacement is purely from the larger bore...general theory would suggest a very slight loss of rpm on top and a good increase in bottom and midrange power, with all else being equal...i wonder how much rpm an aggressively ported xtm would pick up on top, and how the porting would affect that torque off idle and at low-mid rpm...for a monster truck it sounds about ideal though, so don't think i am trying to encourage you to grind on it...ehehe

when i get some more time i would like to experiment with porting one of these GS 21s, just to get some practice...i know the basics, leave the exhaust port alone and just sort of finish what the factory started as regards the schneurle porting, in addition to the crank and rod stuff that i probably won't mess with too much...but i get the impression that the porting is the big factor in determining top rpm, second only to the weight and balance of the internals...would you say that is correct?

xyster - i second everything kirk said...if you can get simple green over there you should definitely give it a try...much safer for plastics than the various solvents (smells better too) and it works well...it does leave a slight haze (only visible on the shiny metal bits) that you can wipe off or leave on for storage to protect the metal...the baked on stuff can usually be scrubbed off if you soak it for a while first, but this may not apply to petrified sheepshit..ehehe...the oven cleaner works good too, but does require disassembly and WILL eat anodizing as kirk mentions...

i would also recommend a big nylon bristle brush of some sort (paintbrush), great for getting the loose crap out from under all the places it gets lodged, and easier than holding the car upside down and shaking the hell out of it...

don't forget to clean and oil your bearings every so often too (good rainy day project) and if you have not yet replaced the 8 metal bushings at the outside corners, that's something else to think about...i have a whole pile of those nasty bushings here, any takers? they might make good fishing weights or something

i agree also on the body repairs, shoe goo and duct tape all the way...i use the tape to reinforce the front and sides of the body though, little lighter than the goop and still seems to prevent cracking etc. in the wheelwells as well as saving the paint in there from being rubbed off by the tires...this is a pretty old trick so i don't think we can claim it...ehehe

[Unobjectionable]

no rush on that parts list kirk, but if you take too long i will wind up doing it myself..ehehe...i do notice most if not all of the necessary parts are now in stock at tower...now if i just had some money.......

[SixVi6]

hehe.. don't tempt me bcause I've been thinking of taking the dremel to the ports on the 24.7. .. lol..

The Megatech .21 had lots of top end but that was all due to the pretty extreme porting I did. The porting I did with the Megatech was nuts and I was actually afraid I screwed it all up. The crank and sleve had been worked over quite a bit as well as the radiusd carb inlet and smoothed outlet. I actually never touched the con rod in that one though because I did not feel like chasing down the stupid G clip that holds the pin in place on the piston because they always seem to just shoot off in some random direction. The huge bore of the 24.7 did limit the top rpm a good deal.

yes porting will change the powerband of an engine giving it more top rpm. Porting is interesting to mess with. I ported lots of t-maxx TRX .15's. everyhitng from sleve porting, case porting, crank porting, and even really screwing up carbs... lol. Normally I just take a peek at what the high end engines look like and what the pro porters are doing and try to follow their lead. I usually just re-create the stock RB ws7 crank porting but of course it never looks as good and poke around on the RB site for sleve porting as well. Just think about making the air flow smoothly into the combustion chamber and straight into the glow plug then exit as smoothly as possible. If you enlarge ports a lot be grinding away on the sleve it will cause idle problems because there won't be enough velocity in the intake charge to keep it running. There is actually some porting that can be done on the exhaust port of most sleves though. you can match the exhaust port to the case by grinding and polishing a nice angle at the bottom of the port to it lines right up with the case just don't ever touch the inside of the sleve.

When I ported my GS21 I didn't touch the sleve at all. the stock porting is unlike and sleve I've seen. I didn't want to touch them because it was the only engine I had for the LM at the time. The only thing I did with mine was do a Hyper .21 style port on the crank.(check the pics in RC nitros Dyno test of the hyper .21. to get an idea) I also radiused the inlet of the carb to let air smoothly flow into it was easily as possible ohh and I even opened up the exhaust manifold to match the exhaust port on the case but that was it.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

I just got back from running my 1/8 storm buggy (my lm is in pieces on the work table, slowly being tranformed into a bad ass tourer). Perfect day for running...70 deg F, low humidity. Ran 5 tanks through the beast at the local ball field with out one burp, stall, or flameout...this hobby is so gratifying when everything goes right! I hope all you guys got a chance to do some RCing today.

Bukkake, the 3 speed parts list:
gear set (2 speed) 7.5 gtw020-02 $9.49
3 speed shaft ma005 $6.49
3 speed cam set ma006 $6.99
2 speed cam set ma007 $18.99
3rd spur gear ma008 $8.99
3 speed clutch bell ma011 $25.99
kyosho bell guide pilot shft for mad force (order # lxu231) $5.79
oneway from the original lm1 2 speed about $25.00
varoius bearings to replace the tranny bearings and the needle bearing in the clutch bell...various pricing by brand I like Boca "green sealed" bearings (I do have a list of all the bearing sizes for this tranny but I missed placed it somewhere?!?!...the tower description for the mad force lists what bearings you need for the tranny...the clutch bell needs the 2 standard 5x8 +1 flanged 5x8 per kyoshos recomedation of replacing their needle bearings on their clutch bells.

btw any luck with the scans of the three speed tranny instructions?


As far as self porting goes i have done very little on my engines... about the most I have done is "cleaned up" the "careless" porting from the factory (sanding any burrs, rough edges, etc.) and polishing the ports and piston (if any glaze exists) using dremel attachments and buffers. By doing this the engine really does seem to run better (idles more smoothly and less flameouts) with a very slight increase in performance. This may be all in my head, and I may be just wasting my time, but it really does seem to make a difference.

[XysteR]

Thx for the cleaning & body repair tips etc Kirk & Unobjectionable. You've both been a great help. I've not been able to find this simple green stuff but i know the stuff you mean. I seen it advertised on Satelite TV a while back. I'll keep looking for it over here in belgium, I'll be going back over to newcastle england to visit my family on the 12th aug so i'll have a look over there too.

I've finished cleaning everything with dishwashing liquid. I replaced the air filter and cleaned out & greased my wheel bearings, oiled and greased everything i could see that was metal. The new rubber boot for the carb is coming via post in a week or two so im just using the old one which i've temporarily repaired with a rubber ballon and super glue lol works ok for now. All that remains for me to do is follow up on a few tips i found on here like tie my shell clips with fishing line and tie them white plastic things that sit below too. I lost one the other day on a massive car parking area as i was running with the shell off and i kinda gave up hope of finding it before i started to look. I couldn't believe it when i walked about 10 paces and found it straight away lol i aint gonna let that happen again so im gonna tie em to the posts with fishing line also. Oh i still have to repair my shell too, i'll get started on that maybe tomorrow. I may aswell cos its raining cats & dogs anyway.

And heres a few uses for unused wheel bushings.

1. If we stockpile em all up we could make a fururistic checkerz board and use the bushings as the checkerz.

2. We could play dirty car dealer vigilantes wif em! Again if we stockpile our bushings we could tie them to the individual strands on this conman car dealers auto car wash and pi*s ourselves laughing as he mentally breaks under the strain of insurance claims pmsl.

3. Or we could paint em white and put em in one of them giant polo mint packets, befriend the above mentioned car dealer, ask him if he wants a mint then we can watch as his teeth crumble to pieces lmao.

4. Then again we could become a big name in designer sunglasses and use the bushings as the rims and make the legs etc out of piano wire. Lil bit of solder here & there. @ £4800 we'll be laughing all the way to the bank!

5. Or we could turn em into bellybutton rings. The women would be flocking to our doors for em.

6. You's have a go, i can't think. Time for bed mefinks.....

Thx again all.

Xy.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

bukkake

I found some cool 1/8 scale bodies (porche, lambor.,viper) by Bergonzoni ( www.bergonzoni.it ). these bodies are for 1/8 scale rally game (looks like buggies converted into on road cars for racing). I guess this is big in Europe. Any of you guys from the Old World have any info about this interesting class of racing?

[Unobjectionable]

thanks for the parts list kirk, i will clean it up a little, add a couple things and put it on the site for "future reference" ehehe...i don't have the manual yet, but it should be here this week and i will be sure to scan the relevant pages pronto...

good find on those bodies too, i know GS racing has a new rally game car as well (shown in the "new products forum" on this site) that looks to be about the right width...as far as i know, there is no set standard for rally game cars, i have seen wide ones and narrow ones...but the racing seems to be what one would expect, mixed dirt and asphalt and not as much emphasis on jumps as buggy racing here in the US...

i also saw that ofna will soon be selling a 911 version of the GTP, there is a pic on their site now but it seems to be the real car, guess we will have to wait and see what the actual body looks like...they are all too wide for the landmax anyway, but with the right a-arms....


i like the bushing ideas xyster, #2 is particularly evil...

[french-fry]

Well, I know its been awhile since my last post, but...well...no I guess I don't have any excuses.

I've actually been quite frustrated since I rebuilt my LM2 and have, as a result, been testing the limits of the tmaxx.

Anyway, it turns out that the play in my transmission is caused by the diff support thingys. The ones that came with the two speed are just a bit different from the originals. For some reason the holes that the bearings sit in are just a bit deeper and as a result, one of the bearings was always a little bit out of the hole. So I returned to the stock supports, but had to modify one of them since the new brake cam works differently than the stock ones.

So problem fixed. I put a new plug in the engine and went out for a spin. It felt so good to drive a car that had handling. There really can't be any comparison with the tmaxx. Everything was going great. Then, the engine started making funny noises. I brought it to a stop at my feet and it stalled. First I noticed that the engine was no longer secure. I have consistantly had problems with keeping the engine in one place. Loctite or not, it just won't stay put. Then I looked closer and I was SHOCKED to see that the whole pull-start assembly had come loose. The two screws that normally hold it to the GS21 were gone!. Needless to say, I put the car away for the day. I had fixed it once already that day, and I wanted to play. So I brought out the tmaxx and drove through some...err...hay. Okay. So now I need to hunt down those screws, and find a way of getting the engine to stay still. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Finally, I was in Los Angeles last week and I saw a Nissan 350z, yep, even though they're not supposed to come out until the 20th, I got to sit in it and start it and rev the engine. Evidently, the owner's girlfriend is in charge of marketing for the car and that particular car is the one that is in all of the advertisements. Anyway, its not an RC car, but at 287 hp and 0-60 in 5.7 seconds with a 6 speed it still kicks butt! Plus its "only" 27 grand.


-Alex

[Unobjectionable]

hey alex, those pullstart screws are 3mm, and have 8mm of thread...

i'm not sure why you are having such a problem with vibration, but you could always try lockwashers on the engine mount screws etc. if the loctite is not doin it for ya...

[Unobjectionable]

maybe this would help! ehehe...kanai 2 clutch setup

[Redfox]

Yeah, i'm sure that would help me! Especially if you bought it for me!! :D

Hehehe again i have strayed from the RCZone Forums for quite a while because i have been playin wiv my guitar (which is now back in the shop cos the fretboard paint is wearing), and dreaming about r/c helicopters. I think i might buy an r/c helicopter later in life when money is no option! But for the time being, back to the good old landmax!

I haven't fixed my body yet, but i do intend to go out and buy some "Shoo-Goo" to fix it up wiv.

Oh btw, dad faxed me a letter/receipt from hobby services about the return of my 2-speed to the states. They said that they have it and are going to repair it for me. Yay!! Can't wait to get it back and in the LM. One thing i'm concerned about tho... i don't want to run the LM on dirt (especially dirt wiv rocks and gravel in it) because i'm scared i'll get a rock in the gears and fcuk it up again...

Last time i ran the LM in gravel i think i got a rock jammed somewhere cos it suddenly stopped dead. Could've been jammed somewhere between my flywheel and the metal baseplate that i installed, and lotsa dirt and castor built up under the flywheel and main diff gear on the metal base plate that i made, so i removed the base plate.

Btw i've found myself a nice stanley screwdriver which has a blade that fits perfectly in the plastic slot in the top of the high speed needle. So i think i'm going to cut a small hole in the roof of the body to allow for me to adjust the needle setting wivout having to remove the body. The previous screwdriver i tried had fairly shapr corners and hence sorta dented the slot a bit. The reason i can't really adjust the needle valve by hand anymore is because i had to tilt the screw back towards the heatsink head slightly (very gently of course! Don't wanna bust that stupid aluminium screw again!!!!) because i had installed the motorsavers .21 offroad air filter which kinda does't allow much room for your fingers to twist the needle screw.

Anywayz, i would love to know how kirks 3spd tranny is coming! I am gonna take my LM for a spin again. The only reason i don't enjoy the LM as much as i should is cos the engine overheats so much even if i do run it very rich. Oh well... i'll buy a new engine sometime.

Laterz,

Chris :D

[Redfox]

Coooool! Dad just called me up from NY and told me that the 2spd tranny had arrived in NY and he's bringing it back to Oz next week!! Woo hooooooo!!! Now that's service for ya! I'm very impressed wiv hobby services!! That is exceptional.... dad said that he thinks they just sent me a whole new assembly. Maybe the last one was too shot to fix up economically. Anywayz that has really made my day. Oh and he also received the fisher space pen refills i ordered on the net! So now i can write upside down and under water, under nitro even!! hehehe mwahahhaha :D
Can't wait to get the 2 speed working... i'm very happy now!! YAY!!!

Cheers,

CHris :D

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Well, i have all the parts needed for the three speed tranny (including some extras like the main shaft) but Im waiting for the ball bearings (probably from Boca)before final assembly. The good news is I think it will all work with some minor mods...mainly trimming down the main shaft and then adding the drive cups and the spacer from the gtw 30 two speed....also the Mad Force manual would be nice to have (hint,hint) so I can make sure Im putting this dang thing together right and adjust it when the car is finally running (I hope the MF manual is not like the LM 1 manual which only shows the steps needed to put the unassembled parts car together, with you relying on the exploded drawing for the rest of the assembly).

I also have most of the parts I need to get this thing going but I did run into a snag...my step dad usually can get the aluminum plate I need from some supplier guy in Michigan, but i guess this guy was layed off and now Im with out aluminum plate (anyone know where I can get some 5mm-6mm 7075 T6 plate fairly cheap?). Well as far as parts go for my project go Im kind of emarrassed of how much $$$ Ive spent but Ive collected these parts for over 2 years so I dont feel as bad.....Im not going to list the part numbers (because I lazy) but just a rough listing:
custom machined 5mm chasis (when I get the aluminum!!!), custommachined rear alum. rear bulkhead support, custom carbonfiber radio tray/front plate/front body support/bottom drop battery tray, all titanium screws(where i could replace), kyosho alum cntr diff mount, hardened balls/ball ends, lunsford tiatnium turnbuckles and hingepins(I called lunsford a few weeks ago and they said that they normally dont do this but they put a set of hingepins together for me for the LM1 ...I knew they had all the sizes available by checking their web site for their 1/8 buggies including the EB4, MP6/7,AND MBX so there was no need for custom maching....great people there), home made receiver box (radio shack gear), slick tires, hardend steel f/r bevel gears, skyline body, ofna brick recevier pack, aluminum steering servo horn, 2 futaba high torque/speed metal gear coreless servos, mad force 3 speed tranny, gpm aluminum front chasis brace and aluminum steering knuckles,kyosho front foam bumper, kyosho f/r roll bars, kyosho mp7.5 big pressure shocks f/r with white "hard" springs, kyosho carbon fiber f/r shock towers, lm2 roll bar/carry handle, custom machined aluminum servo mounts to lay the steering servo flat similar to the guy from HF racer (btw, what happened to his web site...the last time i looked it was closed), aluminum body posts, aerotrend fuel line, kyosho large fuel filter, kyosh three shoed aluminum clutch shoes/ flywheel with 1.1 hard
springs, hardcore racing titanium brake discs/ callipers, MIP temp guage, and a bunch of other small odds and ends.
Im still trying to decide (and save the money for) on which mill to drop in this machine... my reseach is leaning me towards the RB c5 or CMB lsi but Rossi, picco (0-1), and others are also looking good. Those siro engines sound good (AAc piston/sleeve) but I want to see how these engines hold up to review over the next several months.
Sorry for rambling so much but Im really excited about this project. It will (for sure) keep me busy over the winter and hopefully be ready to run by next early spring. I hope to document its creation and share it on this site (if my mom lets me use her dig. camera and I learn how to post pics/etc on the web).

One more thing, Im looking for part number se019 which are the aluminum front hub carriers made by GPM. Hobby etc has had them on backoreder for months and I doubt that they will ever get them (probably no longer produced). If any of you guys know how/ where I could get hooked up with a set of these I would greatly appreciate it!

[Unobjectionable]

wow, now that's what i call a pile o parts! and i am an expert..ehehe

gpm hub carriers - unless you know somebody in japan, hobbyetc. is about it i think...this is why i have tried to avoid dealing with them, well that and the fact that their prices make kyosho's look cheap..ehe

mad force manual - don't have it yet, hopefully this week...but i understand there is a little 3 speed tuning section in the back somewhere, so it should be worth waiting for...not sure on how much other than the exploded diagram they give you for assembly purposes, since it comes already built in the mad force kit...shouldn't be too hard to figure out regardless...

aluminum plate - i was going to say onlinemetals.com, but i just checked and they don't seem to be selling 7075 (swore i saw it there before), mcmaster carr (mcmaster.com) probably has it if you don't mind digging through their site and paying too much...best bet would probably be a local machine shop or something, but most people here will look at you like you are crazy if you ask for 5mm anything...i will keep checking on that one, i'm sure there is another "small quantity" metals place that has 7075 plate, but you might have to settle for 3/16" or something (~4.8mm)

and who did you talk to at lunsford? i emailed kelly about piecing out some inferno/LM1 hingepin kits and never heard back...i need at least two sets..ehehe

that is strange about harald's site, the server seems to be down...if you see him (i will keep an eye out for him on icq also) let him know i would be glad to host his page, even though he doesnt have the car anymore...i saved one complete page (the hopups page) and most of the pics from his site, but hopefully he still has the content saved somewhere...some great ideas on that site, be a shame to see it disappear

[Unobjectionable]

more sources for metals in small quantities, i'm sure one of these places has what you want

http://www.yarde.com (they have some 7075 in the "drop zone" fairly cheap)
http://www.industrialmetalsupply.com
http://www.metalmart.com

p.p.s. don't get too excited about the sirio engines, trinity is distributing them so they will be overpriced regardless, and i have heard them described by people who have prior experience with em as "pure shït"...ehehe...i would stick with nova or picco (or god help us, OS)

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Bukkake, im not sure who I talked to on the phone but the woman was very nice. (I have been meaning to send them a thank you letter for their great service). When I called she said she would have to talk to her boss to see if it was OK. She called me back 2 hrs. later and took my info (address, credit card, etc.) Three days later the pins came(all shrink wrapped in their normal packaging for their "regular" kits). The price was in the ball park of the reg. (ie MP7.5) kits. Check out their web site to get the sizes you need...I used pins from the mp6 n mp7 and the eb4....I think a couple were off by 1mm as listed in the lm1 manual but when I measured the lm kit pins myself some differed in length from their "listed" measurements and in fact all the lunsford pins were an exact replacement match! Hope this helps.....watch now, with all the calls into lunsford because of this thread we may see a " lm production pin set"!!!

[Unobjectionable]

eheh thats kinda what i was hoping for...there are enough burns/nitro crusher/inferno/LM1s still out there to make it worthwhile, one would think anyway

i have a question for you about that though...what did you get for the "upper outer" pins? the 22mm ones they list for MPs seem like they would fit nicely on inferno/LM1 without that aluminum collar used with the stock 28mm or whatever they are...

also, did you ever get a chance to test-fit those universal driveshafts? i'm still curious to know if they are a direct fit or if some "massaging" might be necessary...

[KIRK S. DECKER]

bukkake, i boobooed and did not even think of those bolts...damn but im sure it would work; i ordered the following:
(4) 3 x44, (2) 4x65,and (2) 4x78; I also scavenged (4) 3x39 pins from a kid who had a junker mp6 to replace the 4 sus bots. When I install these if I find too much play, i use shock shaft o rings to tighten things up...I have done this with my electric/and gas cars and I have yet to lose an eclip this way(i have lost e clips if I did not use the o ring and let the pin stay "loose"..
thanks for the info about the aluminum... i found a .19 " piece of 7075 t6 on the yarde site that will work perfect.

[Unobjectionable]

cool, sounds good

thats a good idea with the o-rings, as long as it doesn't bind up the suspension or anything...i haven't had any problems with losing e-clips until they are worn out enough to almost fall off, but i may give that a try just to take up the little bit of play in there...

guess i will give lunsford a call also, i'm more worried about the 3mm pins...the 4mm seem malleable enough to be straightened out indefinitely (the old bench vise trick) but i think the 3x39s would break after a while, they just seem more brittle (the old-style black ones anyway)

and yeah, that aluminum stopper is 5mm long so the 22mm lunsford pins should be about right...i will check on Pr0k's MP-6 if i can ever get him to bring it over...eheh

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Bukkake, sorry forgot about the universals.....I really wont know if they will be an exact fit until I get the chassis fabricated (4.8mm 7075 t6 alum plate on the way!!!!) the gear boxes on, and the center diff brace (with three speed :) ) in place.....but when I held the parts up to the drive dog bones/drive cup the match is pretty close!!! the universals are funny though...one is silver and the other flat black, it brought back memories of the mp 6 international. How are your lm projects going...I didn't forget about your "project 2" super speed car with the wacked out gear ratios....how's it comming along. It seems so silly that I am spending all this time researching and talking about a car that I haven't had on the road for about 6 months...Im glad I have my GS Storm buggy to bash around but this too may be getting a new 7075 chasis...only problem is it needs 3deg. of front kick up...any ideas on how to add this (accurately) to a flat chassis besides putting it in a vice and carefully bending it while keeping a close eye on the angle with a inclonometer (a device I use at work to measure body joint angles)? I think I like buiding and messing with these cars more than running them...my storm already has homemade f/r aluminum bulkhead braces (finally after going through 2 bulkhead sets), homemade cabon fiber radio plate and front plate, and a cutom splsh guard for the front brake. More time than buying the parts but probably saved me $100. Well enough rambling, it is time for bed!

[SixVi6]

hmm.. I haven't posted in here in a bit mostly because my LM2 has been running strong without any problems. :) Now if my stinkin camaro would stay runnnig nice for a month I can order up a nice stiff chassis, braces, and shocks for the LM2. I did today order up some fresh slicks for it though. the current tires on my LM2 are wearing a bit thin. hehe.. :D

[Redfox]

Well i got my hands on some Shoe Goo today (this stuff is actually clear over here) and i taped up the outside of the body and gooed it all up on the inside over the crack and smoothed it out with a knife. Just waiting for it to dry now. I think it should be just super. Looks like mighty strong stuff if it can hold my shoe together... which reminds me... the boots i'm wearing are starting to get the mouth happening at the front of the shoe. Thank goodness for Shoe Goo!!
Hehehehe... also anticipating the arrival of my new 2spd next week! Please pray for me that nothing breaks or goes wrong!! I just wouldn't be able to take it!

:D

[Unobjectionable]

ehehe...my fingers are crossed! perhaps some sort of sacrifice is in order...

just take your time, loctite all the metal to metal connections, and make sure that mesh is right...i swear my clutchbell has more wear on it than the gears do...

kirk, i still need a few parts for the stage two deal (mainly the 19/26 teeth, i will get those on the next tower order) and i still have yet to turn that 2nd gear hub down to the right size to fit inside the recess on the MP-6 spur...need to pick up a 15/64" (~6mm) bolt/washer/nuts etc. from the hardware store so i can chuck it up in the drill and grind the diameter down evenly, then i can pull those bushings out and replace them with proper bearings and make it all fit...btw, how does that GS 2 speed bell look compared to the stocker? been meaning to ask you...

sounds like your setup for bending in the kickup on your GS chassis is more sophisticated than what most manuafacturers have...eheh...sounds like it will work to me..

and i definitely know what you mean about our little projects, i spend FAR more time planning and tweaking than i do playing with the car (or actually DOING anything ahaha) but that's part of the fun...kinda like being a race car engineer who gets to test his mods, only without the inconvenience of being killed when they don't work out as planned...eheh

john, i'm glad you are actually getting some funtime in, unlike the rest of us losers..eheh...are you still using the hyper carb or did you go back to the megatech? that new 8 port hyper looks like it may have some potential (you KNEW that was coming, and this too...)

tower now has all those neat LM2 goodies IN STOCK, including the GTW-21 3mm blue anodized BLING BLING chassis and the steering plate and shock towers (don't buy those, you know you want bukkaketech© 3mm carbon fiber pieces instead, and i will make you and alex a much better deal than those criminals), as well as the cool blue aluminum MTW-1 hubs and GTW-23 short springs that should also work with LM1...can't find those titanium shock shafts yet, have to see if i can uncover the KYOC number

damn i am evil...did you decide which shocks you want yet?

[SixVi6]

hehe... yup still running the stock hyper carb and have not had any problems. the hyper is not stalling likes it used to probably because the p/s clearance is soooo stupidly tight and it takes a good gallon or more after breakin to loosen up nicely. That 8 port Hyper looks nice though. the only question I have is will it worth the extra cost? thats $40 for a few more ports and more ports don't mean more power. Who knows it may be a new s/p to try out later on.

Yeah I was looking at all the hop ups at tower too. drool.. who knows. I may just jave to spend some money. bukkaketech© carbonfiber. hmm... that would be cool. I need shocks bad though.

[Unobjectionable]

i think that one guy is most likely gouging on the 8 port, he probably sells the regular one for $140..eheh..ultimate will probably have it for $120 or something if they don't already...but yeah, i want to hear how it runs, if it has that hyper grunt with more top-end like you would expect it should be a winner...

btw i hear that bluestar chassis is actually pretty nice, especially for $50 less than the stock 7.5 one (3mm), might be something to consider...

the blue shocks (BSW-27) really are the way to go as far as the kyosho shocks, bang for the buck wise...they really are the exact same thing as the $60 a pair IFW-30s, just with the blue color and no teflon coating on the inside (that i know of anyway)...and you could always hit em with the easy-off and polish em up to look even prettier than the IFW (which have a sorta matte finish on the body)...still a nice chunk of change for shocks for a TOY CAR, but we know how that goes...eheh

i will keep you guys posted on the fiber thing and see if i can crank out some parts before we all die of old age...i am talking cheap though, not this $20-30 for a shock tower nonsense...

[KIRK S. DECKER]

bUKKAKE
Check out the www.horizonhobby.com site...they have a picture of the GS sonic two speed bell under "whats new at horrizon hobby .com" on their opening page!!

P.s for $8.95 you might as well try it, if it doesnt fit with the kyosho gears maybe the gs ones will work...but I bet it is a perfect match!


tHE site has changed since sat. am now you have to click to "more new products".

[KIRK S. DECKER]

here is a kind of stupid question:

How well do the lm slicks work? Do they "sticK" pretty good. Ill be using mine on I guess what you would call "unprepared" asphalt (dust, small pebles, etc). Would the other treaded lm tires work better for this type of road (i dont have the part # for these tires but they are treaded onroads I think).. the reason im asking is the only experience i have with slick tires of any kind are the lm stock tires and buggy tires which "became" slicks after trashing them on the asphalt. Well once they become like this there is no "stick " left to them and the car (lm or buggy) looses traction like crazy with any type of acceleration and spins out in any kind of turn. Fun, but not the kind of performance I want my project on roader; (with a 2.5+ hp mill in it I need tires with grip!!)
Any comments based on your guy's experience or thoughts would be appreciated.

[Unobjectionable]

well, i do have a set of SLIGHTLY USED slicks now but i haven't had a chance to try them...but harald and SixV6 seem(ed) to like them, and they are almost certainly the best for prepared surfaces, but as you imply, they would not be a good choice for unprepared...they are pretty soft, and "tacky" to the touch, so they would get loaded up with crud right away, and you would be hydroplaning on dirt...eheh

so you pretty much have a choice of the GT-39 treaded street or the GTW-4 soft treaded street...exciting i know, but we may have another option, mentioned about 8000 pages ago somewhere...the proline 1102 "road rage buggy rear" is a 2.2" street tire that LOOKS like it will fit fine, and should not rip apart like those dirt hawgs i tried (they had little indents all the way around the sidewall which is where they failed)...the road rage are M2 compound (very soft) so i'm thinking they may actually stick better than the slicks, at the expense of longevity...but since they are half the price of the kyosho, and should still work well on unprepared surfaces...

here's the tower link for those (i have seen them cheaper too, like $8-10 a pair), Pr0k actually just ordered a set today, so maybe we will get to test them out next weekend or something...STAY TUNED

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXDU34&P=0

as for that GS clutchbell, you have yours now correct? i was hoping you could verify that the bell itself has the right dimensions to be a more or less direct swap for the stock 13/16 bell, and that the GS teeth for it do have the right width/pitch/etc to work properly...main idea here being that the GS bell with GS 17/20 teeth would hopefully be a fairly cheap and easy upgrade for any LM1 or 2 owner with a 2 speed...

here are the part numbers you mentioned before (took me an hour to find em last night, don't wanna have to dig so much again ehehe)

2 speed clutch bell (gsc581620) $8.95
alum. 17t pinion (gsc582641) $9.99
alum. 20t pinion (gsc582644) $9.99

[Redfox]

Well the LM is workin like a charm (touch wood!) today i took it out and zoomed it on the street. It rained last nite and a little this mornin so the street was wet, and i had the maddest fun!!! I think that driving on wet ashphalt is sorta similar to dirt tracks and it's good because you don't get dirt all through your car. Although i must admit dirt driving is the most fun outta all of them...

When i was running, it only stalled twice through the whole tank because of over heating i think (Which is a helluva lot better than previous dayz). And i was absolutely strapping it up and down the street non stop!! hehehe every so often i'd stop it to richen it a little and i think you can deal with the gs-12r if you nurture it very carefully if you know what i mean.

I forgot to mention about a month and a half ago i dragged my mates .21 rally car... he's got some block wiv 1.9hp, and i think i'm right in saying the gs-21r has 1.2hp?? And his car was lighter than mine, but for some reason i kept up to him and i think in the end overtook him. LM must have a higher top speed or something.

Infact it's running so well that i am scared of installing the new 2-spd lest something go wrong!! Argh! Oh well, i suppose the 2-spd should be a helluva lot more fun!

All this talk about tyres is getting me excited! Hehehehe i really like the look of those Kyosho 1/8 street radials... although the high grip ones for US$24/pair is a bit of a joke! Those proline ones do look pretty cool i must admit... i'm very interested to know if they fit.

I have been checkin out some rims on Tower, and i think my fav are the 15 spoke whites, and the 6 spoke blacks (GT037B). Although 6 spoke chrome would be nice, but the chrome would rub off i think. The ones i have now are the 15 spoke whites and the 5 spoke ones that come stock wiv the Escort. I like the 15 spokes best, but i don't use them much cos i don't wanna dirty them or wreck them. I really need a never ending supply of free wheels.... or even LM parts for that matter!!

I reckon the street radials and silver 15 spokes on this car at nitroreview is cooool....
http://www.nitroreview.com/reviewimages/87/chasis1A.jpg
I want radials!! I want them now.... ALso, now i have that same Motorsavers Airfilter and it looks great and works great! They claim that you may have to run slightly richer, and i also heard that it can lower the engine temp a bit... is this true?

Oh on another note, the failsafe i am using, even though it is good, is also sometimes a little annoying. Sometimes it just kicks in for no apparent reason and seeing as i set it to full brake, then the car just stops for about 2 seconds. I appreciate the failsafe, and i do believe it could save me a lotta money and tears in the long run, but sometimes little radio glitches should be ignored. I think it might be a little sensitive if you know what i mean. Oh well, i guess i just gotta put up wiv it.

Chris
:D

[jeroen]

I'm still working on it too get my landmax look better than the one above from nitroreview, but it isn't easy the thing just looks somehow so cool.
But I'll will get mine look a little cooler.
I want too do this by polishing every bit of aluminium there is on the landmax.
And put in a cool engine something like the CMB rally or something like that.
I hope do have my project landmax finished in the begin of 2003.
But I'm also working on my madforce.

I also have a failsafe with built in ABS system, and i aslo have sometimes that the failsafe is annoying, without any good reason for it.
But It's better than driving without it and, have a crash.

[Pr0k]

Yeah Chris Iwould think i will have an answer for you on those proline tires in a few days. I use a return spring myself, although a failsafe probably is not a bad idea.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Proline slicks woulde be great (especially the cost factor)...hopefully Prok will have the feedback soon.

Redfox, dont wast any money on chrome rims...the chrome is not any kind of plating but rather a (real crappy) spray job with silver paint...at least on the 6 spoke ones. Im going to give mine a shot of easy off so that all I have is the dark gray plasic (these will be pretty cool and wont show the scuffs and dirt like the white ones. Btw, when I had my lm set up like the subaru rally I wanted gold rims...paint doesnt work worth a crap so i went to the RIT website (the fabric dye) and they had the "formula" that gave you gold color by blendig some of their existing dyes (do not remember which ones at the top of my head). Well I followed the insructions and boiled my rims (white 15 spoke) with the dye. They came out a golden red brown color (not "chrome like" obviously) but they really looked trick and contrasted well with the bright blue body and yellow decals.. In fact the rims looked more like the "real" ones as they are more of a satin finish than real shiny and reflective.

Bukake, sorry i never bought the gs two speed bell because of the whole three speed project ( I already spent too much money even though the whole gs thing shouldnt be too much bling). I bet though, those kyosho gears will fit the bell and everything will line up fine hint,hint. I know a lot of the kyosho parts are compatible with gs (as far as my experience with the storm buggy). In fact it almost seems gs copies kyoshos parts (dimensions and all). My storm has kyosho shocks, brakes, and various other gear.
My aluminum will be here in a couple of days and I should be able to start to begin this project and hopefully be done by spring (all I need now is some boca bearings, a few parts from hardcore racing, and of couse a new engine (maybe for christmas :D ) When all is said and done my Landmax should give Kevin's "Chopped, droped, and stupid fast" lm2 in the article on the rc niro web page a run for its money!

Prok your reply just beat mine to the board...sounds cool.

[Unobjectionable]

no prob kirk, i just thought you had it already...i will check one out sometime and see what the deal is there...

chris, i am glad to hear you are having some fun with your car (finally)...and i agree, the GS 21 does take a few minutes to really get fully warmed up, and will require richening until it finally gets there and kinda "equalizes" between making power vs. turning into a nuclear reactor...eheh...any engine is like this really, but once they are there it will run all day and never overheat or anything...and yes, the richer any motor runs, the cooler...i haven't tried the motorsavers filter myself though...just make sure you tiewrap it on (!!!) and it should be fine...

[Redfox]

Ok all, you probably won't believe my bad luck, but i had quite a few catastrophic failures today!!!!! Argh... just when i thought everything was running great!!!

First big fcuk up was the clutch breaking. Not until an hour ago did i open up the car to work out what was wrong... Today i took my car to uni and we went down to the netball courts (pretty much b'ball courts to you boyz!) and fanged our cars down there. He has a 1/10 electric which did keep up wiv the LM amazingly... hehehe :D

Anywayz i was flooring it around the courts, and i admit i was on full throttle a lot getting max speed quite a few times... And it was all good until the car just suddenly stopped dead i it's tracks. Almost as if a rock got jammed in the gears or something. So i had a look at it and found that the clutch seemed to be constantly engaged... "Bugger!", so i figured that i had a broken clutch spring and hence the clutch was just constantly engaged. I had been expecting it cos the clutch spring had looked a little worn recently.

Well you can imagine my surprise when i opened up the car about an hour ago to find the actually clutch shoes had snapped and parts of it just disintegrated inside. The spring was still intact, but lots of the plastic had just cracked off the shoes and there was a big hole in the middle of one. It is well and truly FCUKED!!! No question about it. And i was gonna buy a new one today at the hobby store but i figured i could replace the spring. I got another clutch but part of the front edge has been cracked off... so i might just buy a new one. I would really like one of those vespal clutches tho, but the hobby store guy sed they are about AU$120... that's a bit steep ain't it?!

Ok so that wasn't all... i continued to run the car with the stuffed up clutch... cos a constantly engaged clutch ain't that detrimental is it!? I figured that if i just lift rear wheels off the ground and start it so that yanking the PS also turns over the whole drivetrain was gonna work... And it did work! Infact it had no troubles again for a while, until it suddenly stopped again after some weird noise. So i pick it up and look at the clutchbell and flywheel and THE WHOLE FCUKING THING IS BENT!!! So in other words i pull the PS and the end of the clutchbell wobbles around as if the crankshaft is bent! So i'm like "PIECE OF FCUKING *****!!!!!!"... (excuse the french, i'm just trying to re-enact my colourful response... you can imagine how i felt).... so i was ready to throw the whole damn thing in the nearest bin. I was pretty convinced the pilot shaft or crankshaft was bent or something. Which would mean a whole new engine, cos i couldn't be stuffed fixing a crappy gs-21r... As a result of this big wobble out of alignment problem with the crankshaft or whatever, the clutchbell had spun awkwardly and sorta half ruined my brand new AU$22 red spur gear! FFS!!! It would stil work, but one section, the plastic has been pushed out a bit and looks a bit chewed up... It also rubbed against the clutchbell surface adjacent to the pinion gear and created this weird wear pattern on it.

Well to cut a long story short, i took it apart an hour ago and low and behold, the shim in between the black metal drive washer (the thing between the crankcase and the flywheel) somehow seemed to end up with one side of it on top of the raised section of the crankshaft. So there was this big pressed raised section on the shim and hence the flywheel and all the stuff wasn't on straight. So i figure the pilotshaft or something must've loosened. Anyways i haven't got a replacement shim so i just put it back together without it. I hope it doesn't need it badly or anything. All i'm worried about now is the engine throwing nitro all through the inside of my car like it did today...

And if that's not enough for you, while was starting my car before it stuffed up, i accidentally hit my radio when pulling the PS and it wasn't a hard hit, but then i realised that the wheels were at full left lock... so i was like "Is the receiver on?!" And i found that it was, and then realised the the control wheel on the TX wasn't springing back to centre!! "OMG FFS!!! WHY IS EVERYTHING FCUKING UP TODAY!!!?!???? *****!!!!" i said to myself... I figured i had a broken spring in there. Opened it up half an hour ago and found that the spring was ok, but a plastic section had snapped off... so there was no contact with the return spring lever and no end point which allowed the steering servo to go past it's end point... couldn't be good for the steering. So i just CAed it and then realised CA wasn't strong enough, so i araldited it too....

FFS... how bad can things get eh?! I guess i'm lucky my engine wasn't stuffed wiv something bent *touch wood*!! But my mate said to me that it was likely to snap before it bent cos it's made of toughened steel...

To top it off, the guy at the hobby store took one look at the chassis and sez to me, "it's as bent as a banana!" and i had a look myself, and so it was... he put the straight edge of a betal rule to it and there was like a 5mm gap from the rule edge to the chassis at the very front of it. He said that i must've smacked it into something pretty hard. But i knew i hadn't today, so it must've been quite a while ago... could've been when i did those huge jumps of the embankment that my mate bent the whole front of his chassis on... oh well... i guess i'll just have to run with a bent chassis! At least it's got a bit more ackerman!! hehehe... lol earlier today the hobby store dude told me that i don't need a chassis ti-rod strut between the centre diff mount and the front steering plate because "It's a landmax!" (said with a small snicker on his face....), and then i go back in the arvo and we find that the chassis is bent!! FFS... i wanna install a ti-rod just like that nitroreview LM has... that one looks cool and should strengthen it a bit right??

Anywayz i've had a shocker of a day in terms of the LM, although i must admit that it was hell fun seeing that thing absolutely fly. Oh A few more things i gotta ask, the guy at the hobby shop said replacing the GS-21R would cost a lot. He said initially AU$1000 and then later said at least AU$600+ and he said it's a big job. I don't think he had any idea... cos all you gotta do is buy an engine mount, a new manifold and a new engine right? He was talkin about the OS RG21 engine not dropping straight in, even though i knew the manual said that it would be a fine replacement in the LM. Even an OS RZ V01B would fit in provided it's not the pilot shaft model... right?! He claimed that he'd done lotsa conversions and they cost a lot... i think that's a load of BS... other than the engine, the mount and manifold don't cost that much do they?! I think he's full of ***** and i think i would trust you guyz more...

Also, can you install the metal spur gears from an MP5/6 buggy instead of chewing up plastic spurs?? Even though i'm putting a 2spd in there, i would like a metal backup or something. Also, what is the top speed of a stock LM. The hobby store guy said about 40kmh tops... but i reckon it goes at least 55kmh... hopefully 65 w/ 2spd... do you agree with my estimates or the hobby store dude??

Oh i also want a vespal clutch or the heavy duty kyosho ones... cos these stock clutches just aren't cutting it!! I am getting my 2spd back from the states tomorrow... i know something will go wrong. It'll be just my luck.... i think i should buy a lotto ticket or something... Cos all my good luck has to be going somewhere right???!

Sorry for the long post... hope you haven't died of boredom yet. I just had to express myself.... omg what a tragic day...

Chris :rolleyes:

[Unobjectionable]

well at least you had a little fun...but for future reference, when something is wrong, stopping and fixing it will save you some heartbreak (and money)...eheh...i guess the locked clutch probably helped the pilotshaft come loose since, on decceleration, the weight and speed of the car would be going into trying to unscrew it, since the clutch couldn't "decouple" and let the car coast down to a stop...make sense?

you may be able to flatten your chassis back out...careful use of a "flat head" hammer or bench vise is usually enough to get it back to more or less flat status...and yes, that front tierod brace would definitely help prevent that from happening again, although there is only so much that can be done with the stock 2.5mm chassis...if you do that, do one for the rear also (like on that same car) as this seems to be the real weak spot...a rod from the center diff to the rear bulkhead would probably be stronger than the factory "torque rod" setup, but you could run em both just to be cool...

also, your local shop there sounds like ripoff heaven...the 39673 vespel clutch is about $40us/$80au at tower and i think even that is pushing it...the KC-45 is about half that price and will last a good long time (you can scuff the shoes on either when they get shiny and it's like a brand new clutch, especially if you do the inside of the bell with some fine sandpaper too) and surprise you with the perceived increase in performance (from having a clutch that is not a piece of crap)...

and i will fly over there and slap you if you PAY somebody to work on your car..eheh...you will at least need the BS-25 mounts and proper flywheel for whichever type of engine (BSW-22 threaded, BSW-57 sg) you go with, and a couple more (cheap) parts for the sg setup (BSW-58 and 59)...which manifold you need will also depend on the engine (OS and everything else), though you can use the stock one (with that nasty rubber elbow) on the RG, if you go that route...

check de following links for more of that stuff:
http://***********/gp20/Reference/mount.gif
http://***********/gp20/GP-20-parts.txt

yes, you can use steel spur gears...easiest way is to get BSW-34 and then you can run the steel 46T (MP-5/6) or 51-55T (burns/inferno) spurs from duratrax or kyosho...see above parts list for more yummy part numbers (and a cheaper alternative)...BUT, you will also need a better clutch bell, the stock ones get torn up from the steel spurs in about 3 minutes...i found this one out the hard way

theoretical top speed of LM1@35K rpm with 3.5"/88.9mm diameter tires (tyres):

single speed, stock 15/51 gearing: 37.39mph/60.17kmh
two speed, stock 16(2nd gear)/50 gearing: 40.68mph/65.47kmh

all numbers provided by the RCCA gear calculator and onlineconversion.com, trademarks property of their respective holders

not much of a gain in top speed, but gets there very quickly, even with the GS 21...just be sure to stop the car and look at it if you hear any SCARY NOISES *slap slap*

actually, just fly me over there and provide room and board, i will keep your car in TIP TOP shape...i hear sydney is beautiful

[Redfox]

Lol thanks bukkake!! Mate, the amount of help you give me through this forum really does make me wannna fly you over here for a holiday!! You deserve it after all the time you spend explainin to newbies like me!! hehe :D

After heaps of probs i finally got the 2spd to work!! First time i ran it, the four screws holding first gear onto the centre drive unit all fell off cos they were metal-metal connections and i hadn't loctited them... i never even thought to do that cos i thought it was all ready to drop in and run. So i replaced them with screws from the kyosho racing box and loctited them on. Then the next run the pilot shaft came loose and i thought "FCUK!!!! THE PILOT SHAFT SNAPPED AGAIN!!!", and that only happened when i tried to start it, so i didn't start it, took it apart and fixed up again real tight this time. Then the next run, the whole car ran off cos the whole onboard radio system just died somehow... it just didn't respond.... although when i looked it was all connected fine... but then it suddenly sprang to life again. I will go through all the connections tomorrow to see if there are any cut wires...

Finally on the fourth run i got it to shift! And i was like "PHEWWW"... i seriously thought i was gonna bust the 2spd again...

You guys prolly think i'm a clutz and all with all this bad stuff happening to me. But i swear it's not my fault!! I was ready to chuck the LM away again today! lol!!

Heheheh now that i have a good gear mesh, i have tightened up the engine real good now... i'll loctite it tonite....

I am getting a little sorta tinkling sound when i run the 2spd and i heard it last time i ran it... I finally found that the front brake linkage was just sorta touching the first gear when the whole drive unit was moved forward due to the 1mm play in it... so i will bend it to go around that gear...

Otherwise it's all good. Btw a mate told me that i should stay away from offroading, cos it eats up the 2spd if i get dirt in it. Bit disappointing, but i will prolly run it offroad a bit and hope nothing bad happenz... my luck has gotta come back sometime!

:D

[Unobjectionable]

no problem on the help, there is a definite learning curve with these things...and like we discussed before, it's supposed to be FUN! ehehe

so whaddaya think? pretty cool hearing that thing shift ain't it?

just try to keep crap out of the gears and keep the guts clean and it should be fine...mine has spent most of it's life running in sand, and i am talking throwing up roostertails of it in the front yard...gets everywhere

[Jimmy33]

Man I go away for 2 weeks and the topic doubles!. While in itlay though I did show some people how to race a landmax and came away with a class win. However I am still on the search for a body of a ford focus. I have found one from thunder tiger but it is 4 cm to wide, would fitting the inferno suspention arms and axels etc. make the car wider?

Thanks

James

[Unobjectionable]

yep, by about 1.75"/44mm...i was wondering where you went, scroll back a little ways and you will see that bergonzoni makes a 8th scale lancia delta integrale body...thought of you when i saw it...eheh...dunno what the dimensions are on that one though...

special present for KIRK S. DECKER...

http://***********/gp20/misc/madforce3speed02.gif
http://***********/gp20/misc/3speedadjust.gif

i will try for better quality on those later, they get all ugly when i resize them down...got my hands full right now though muahaha

[SixVi6]

Over at Ace hardware hobbies they've recently updated their website and added lots of 7.5 stuff from hardcore racing and some package that includes everyhting for $200 from come company I've never heard of called TJR.

http://65.18.128.108/2.2/catalog/default.php?cPath=88_89

Ohh and if you think the Fioroni stuff is expensive.. the HCR prices will give you a heart attack.

too cool! I got my hands on a second 24.7! I've been assembling a full supermaxx from the ground up for a friend at my work. He was in the past a big RC racer and actually has a stock t-maxx now but after he saw my t-maxx and I showed him what it could be capable of he went nuts. by the weekend I'll have a complete SuperMaxx built from scratch.. drool.. its like $2000 in parts. anyways initially he wanted a 24.7. I ordered it and have had it for a while now waiting to get the rest of the SuperMaxx parts but now since there is a pull start conversion for the RB WS7 he went for that instead and has just given me the 24.7 and will still be paying me just to build his SuperMaxx. The problem now.. what will I put the new 24.7 into?

[KIRK S. DECKER]

SixVi6, is that guy your building a super maxx for (and GAVE you that 24.7)a millionare or what?

So cool bukkake...thanks for those picks they are just what I needed! I better hurry up and get those bearings so I can get this three speed tranny going...my aluminum should be here today! btw. what are YOU up to ("my hands are full..muahaha)?
I have been thinking about the gearing of the three speed (14 17 20 and 46 43 40 as you know), what do you think about this gearing and a powerful engine...still undergeared? (I dont want to burn TOO much tire on the take off). I was thinking about changing the pinions (bump all up by 2 or 3...if by three i would only have to get a 23 b/c i would already have the 17 and 20)..Only problem is the clutch bell...the pinions come "factory installed" and at least the first one seems to be a thread on afair(I can see the threads) so they should be able to be removed but I cant budge those pinions,. I have tried with padded vice grips but no dice. Any ides?...I dont want to destroy this $25 bell. Are the bells "reverse threads"? This of course all a moot point if the gearing is "right". Of couse your input is always appreciated!

ps. I finally got the pinions off...guess what, the shaft diameter is the same the entire length but ONLY the disatal 1/3 is threaded!(just like those early pictures we saw). The first pinion is threaded but the other 2 are not. Options are to have someone die more threads or get threaded pinions and remove the threads of the two closest to the "bell portion"...but I dont even know if the Kyosho pinions are threaded the same...best bet might be to just use the stock gears and bell and wait to see if Kyosho comes out with an optional mad force pinion gear set. One thing though with this bell, one will have to make sure that the last pinion is put on VERY tight with lock tite (no sign of kyosho using thread lock on the assemblly) to make sure it doesnt loosen, because so will the other pinons and probably bye-bye to your spur gears. One questin answered is this bell would not be a good option for a two speed set up unless you could die threads onto the shaft after cutting off the end 1/3 of the shaft.

jerone keep us informed about your lm project! All these lm projects would make a great article in one of the rc mags and bring more attention to these landmax cars, especially here in the US. I have read that these cars(and the super 8s) are much more popular in Europe and Asia. Is this true?

I have been on many of the threads on this site, and Ill tell you this landmax one is one of the most informative, helpfull, and has the most courteous people on it :)

PS aluminum came today...let the building begin!

[jeroen]

KIRK S. DECKER I hope your 3-speed project is gone a work.
I haven't really looked at my landmax and madfroce too put the madforce 3- speed into the landmax.
I'm also still waiting for the twospeed clutch for the landmax twospeed, first I'm going too use the twospeed often onto the landmax with a high hp engine and when the twospeed is worn I'll put the treespeed in the landmax.

I have taken apart the landmax completly too give it a big clean up and polishing work, and I will take the blue head gs21r apart and clean it, so I will give It one more chance, but when it is running bad again I will trow it away I really hate that engine.

I don't think the 1/8 scale (rally cars) are more popular in Europe.
But it could be popular in Asia.

[Pr0k]

They look like decent fit haven't glued them on yet. hopefully will road test this weekend.
http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/45/45882/folders/29538/174155prolineroadhawgs.jpg

http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/45/45882/folders/29538/174156proline2.jpg

http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/45/45882/folders/29538/174157proline3.jpg
http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/45/45882/folders/29538/174159proline4.jpg

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Prok
Those tires look so trick! What exact ties are those..I know they are Proline Road Rage, but what compound and (manufacture #).
They look like a perfect fit (any problems or "hand fitting" needed?). Also what inserts did you use (I assume the ones that came with them). Sorry for all the questions , but for the bargain price (as compared to the kyosho tires) you cant beat them...cant wait for your review...my fingers are crossed hoping they perform as well as they look.

[SixVi6]

Wow those do look nice. let us know the exact tire and all. I hope they work out.


Yes the guy that gave me the XTM is loaded.. or more like his wife is. She is some office director at a temp agency or something like that. All the money he makes at his job is just for his toys. Too bad I won't be doing a complete RTR setup for him. I'd love to bash a complete SuperMaxx with a WS7 on it.

I found out that they are relocating my office to the Sears tower by the end of october so it looks like I won't have a job. I can't afford to drive for 3 hours a day + tolls and parking to get to work. I hate this switching jobs crap but I think its time for a change. I may just go and see if my LHS needs somebody in the Car dept. hehe...

[Pr0k]

Kirk, it seemed to take a little hand fitting nothing major. The tires are made of m2 compound and I did use the foams that came with the tires. Road Rage 2.2' fits wide buggy rear part number 1102-00 special stock# is LXDU34 at tower. Yeah I hope to actually get a chance to run a little this weekend.

[Unobjectionable]

mmmmm those look good...if they hook up half as well as i suspect they will (M2 compound is LIKE BUTTA) we will be able to pop wheelies on carpet...ahaha...we will give em some good testing/abuse this weekend

john, i'm sure you can figure out SOMETHING to do with that bad boy (twin engine 24-7 landmax!)....i'm sure it would work well in a mad force too (eheh i NEVER stop)...and yeah, those HCR parts rival GPM for sheer gougability (is that a word?), i have heard their stuff isn't all that great anyway...ace does have some decent prices on the fioroni though, those knuckles are a work of art...cnc 7075...i don't see the fioroni radio posts though, they are usually cheaper ($11 or so) than the kyosho, and prettier to boot

kirk, yeah i got to check out a mad force bell too, i couldn't get that first gear off though, and didn't want to risk messing up the teeth, so the info is definitely appreciated...as far as the hands full thing, i have started selling on ebay now, nothing too exciting yet, just some of my old crap, but it is definitely keeping me busy...but hopefully i will have some neat surprises to show you guys in a week or two... /mysterious

i think 8th scale cars are generally more popular in europe, here we have onroad 8th and offroad 8th, and most of the general public has no idea that either exists...rc cars as a whole are still really a niche market though i think, regardless of what country we are talking about...most people think radio shack or toys r us are the end of the line

on a semi-related note, i have to compliment you guys...jeroen is pimping the mad force like a madman over at maxxtraxx, and i made my first visit to a little forum called rc-x.org today, and the first post i saw (in "rally cars" folder) was SixV6 pimpin the LM2...ahaha...spreading the love like a VIRUS, kyosho really should be paying us, or at least giving us free hop-ups

[Unobjectionable]

i think the 3 speed will fit fairly easily...it is a lot shorter than it looks in the closeups..first gear is pretty low but at 14/46 (ratio .304) it's not as bad as the stock GT-30 first (13/53-.245)...it will get up and GO in either car with any engine, there will definitely be some throttle control required with the kind of engines you are talking about, but i can almost guarantee it will be an absolute BLAST to drive...

probably be a good idea to get the aluminum spacer/bearing collar set from the GT-30 (KYOC2231) so you don't have to hack up your current spacer...grind a couple flat spots on the (shortened) 3 speed shaft, slap on the 6mm I.D. drive cups from either two speed and the rest should be pretty simple...just get the bell mounted up first, and make the spacers push the tranny to the right spot and not the other way around

[KIRK S. DECKER]

bukkake
you read my mine..just a couple mods needed....one bummer is that ADJUSTING the shift points will be a pain...you will see what i mean if you look at the mf 3 speed adjust instructions...easy enough to do on the mf but much more involved on the lm conversion...but i suppose once you have the tranny shifting in the "sweet spot" (s) you wont have to frig around with it much more (I hope).

[Unobjectionable]

hehe yeah definitely inconvenient, but once it's set it will stay set, if the GT-30 is any indication...and since they all use a very similar design, i don't see why it wouldn't be...those little adjustment setscrews lock themselves in very nicely, i have never had a problem with the shift point "wandering" and i haven't heard of any mad force owners reporting such a thing either...

side note: rcalloys.com is now making an aluminum version of the KC-45 clutch for the mad force, but of course it will also fit pretty much every 8th scale kyosho ever made...if the buggy guys find out about it, he probably won't be able to crank em out fast enough

[Redfox]

SH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!TTTTTTT!!!!!!!!! ! I just took the LM for a run on the street and it's almost 6pm and almost dark... I was running it up and down the street listenin to the 2speed when from behind me this car is coming.... and i had the LM runnin towards me and then i see this car and i absolutely hit the brakes, and full left lock and the car obviously saw it by then when it got into his headlights and he hit his brakes and skidded the car. OMG!! The LM ended up about 20cm infront of his left front tire... so i just gunned it and got it up on my driveway and apologised to the guy... he was a youngish guy and was real nice about it and said that maybe i should put a light on the car so that drivers can see it... i'm so lucky he didn't get go psycho at me.

I'm still in a bit of shock... :eek:

Almost had my $1500 R/C car pulverised........ OMG....... this is the last time i run it on the street for a long time. I'm gonna stick to R/C tracks, netball courts and parking lots... omg omg omg....

omg omg omg....

close call...

[Unobjectionable]

yikes! yeah, definitely time to invest in a few of those HIGH POWA LEDs, that woulda sucked, not to mention confused the insurance adjuster..."you ran over WHAT???"

[Jimmy33]

Will the inferno 7.5 suspention arms and other bits fit on the Landmax 2 to widen the stance as I have a very wide ford focus body!
Or how can I make the the trck 4cm wider?

[Pr0k]

Ok so I go over to Unobjectionable's place. we take piscures of some stuff to go up on ebay. Finally figure it is time to fire up the landmax, so first we realize my repair job on the gas tank went south. Anyways after a quick on the fly tank switch we were able to get it started, and ran it some in rear wheel drive only as I had only mounted 1 pair of tires. Managed to give them a little bit of a torture test and they seemed to hold up just fine. As he pointed out the supplied foams are really not quite thick enough, but still useable as is! Next pair I will try some heavier foams, but these tires are a winner. I had some time contraints and had to leave before we could really test as well as we would like but hey long weekend comin up!


Now for the killer, I get home pop the cf card in the reader and there is no pictures there! 90 minutes wasted ehehe oh well wish I knew what happened.

[Unobjectionable]

sounds like a DOTB error (dumbass on the buttons), the only cure for which is death...

but yes, the tires hooked up real well...the included foams are not quite wide enough to fit just right inside the tires when mounted on the LM rims, so they wind up having kind of a "soft shoulder" and a lot of side to side motion on the rim...the front version of the road rages might be a little better fit, but the rears would work fine all around with a little wider/thicker foam insert...the rubber feels very similar to the soft kyosho tires and should probably last as long or longer, and the mounted diameter is very close to the kyosho street/slick tires...

as Pr0k said, we ran it RWD (took out the setscrew on front drive cup, quick n dirty style) with the prolines on the back, on his LM1 with GS 21 and 2 speed, and ran a tank through doing hard launches and high speed action on the street in front of the house...no noticeable wheelspin on the asphalt accelerating from a dead stop (pretty impressive, remember it was running RWD) and i feel safe in saying it would have equally impressive traction if they were mounted in the front, especially if the insert thing is worked out so the tires can't wiggle around on the rim so much...

btw, they also worked well on sandy asphalt and just plain old dirt, i couldn't resist a little DUKE BOYZ style sideways dirt spewing rooster action (yeehaw)...so in short, i think these tires have some serious potential, adhesion probably better than the slicks (remains to be seen, but i bet with the prolines all around you could traction roll the car fairly easily) on pavement, and probably better than either version of the rally tires on the loose stuff...not bad for half price...

jimmy, no reason you couldn't use the 7.5 stuff, let me know if you need some help finding the appropriate parts...the car would wind up with 307mm width and 328mm wheelbase per kyosho, so make sure that would fit the body before you buy anything...

[Redfox]

FAAAAAAAARKKKKK!!! Ok....... you're not gonna believe this!!!!

I ran the LM again today down at the netball courts near my uni and the friggin 2 speed broke AGAIN!! Exactly the same as last time!!! The pilot shaft snapped!!!!!!!! I swear i am cursed...

It snapped exactly the same way as before and rooted up all the spur gears... i am so upset with this piece of sh1t!!!!

I dunno what i should do now because i have a dud tranny and the guys at hobby services said on the invoice when i received it that the previous tranny was not at all faulty and they only replaced it for good customer service and satisfaction. So i dunno if i can send it back again... they'll probably reject me. :(

You will all probably think that it's my fault and that maybe the gears weren't parallel... but i'm telling you, they were and i loctited the engine and everything super tight so it wouldn't move!!! When the gears meshed, they meshed very smoothly and i could spin the gears and they would spin for a while which indicated that they were meshing well and weren't binding or anything.

I just wanna get my money back now. I knew i should've gone with the shocks... =[

This sucks...

[Redfox]

Btw, do both of these steel spur gears work on a LM1??

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXVD38&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXPG18&P=7

Cos i want a steel one... cost i've already fully stripped one nylon one and sorta half damaged the one i just bought. Each one is AU$22 so i might as well get a steel spur and save myself money and i'll feel much better about it...

I don't want my 2 speed anymore... i'm just gonna run stock and eventually get a better engine. Right now i'm dying for a LM2... i wish i wish i wish! They seem to have ironed out all the bugs in the MP7.5 right??

One more thing, from running the 2 speed in my car i have almost bored a hole right through my fuel tank because the screw in the clutchbell was rubbing against it. Stupid design if you ask me...

Bah kyosho sucks... LM's suck =[ *sniff sniff*...

[Unobjectionable]

ohhh i don't know where to start...

that first link is a 7.5 gear, won't fit...second one is the MP-5/6 48 steel spur, it would fit with an extra part (KYOC2808/BSW-34), you need this with any of the "flat" gears...

i am not sure how to explain this second broken pilot shaft...my first thought was that your chassis was still bowed enough to be putting a bizarrely large amount of stress on it, but you say you had good mesh with no binding etc. so i don't know what to think...are you jumping it off buildings or something? unless there is some defective batch of GT-20 pilot shafts, the only way i can see it breaking is with some serious direct impact, like the clutchbell smacking the chassis hard...are there any indications this has happened?

and you are supposed to move the tank up a little bit so the bell doesn't hit it, i think we discussed that before, but this is mentioned in one version of the instructions anyway

anyway, the pilot shaft is an $11 part, don't give up just yet...put your single speed back in for now and get your chassis straight (or make one) before you go buying another car...

[SixVi6]

woohoo! I did some sleve porting on the 24.7 in the t-maxx. The severe lack of RPM in the engine and the insane low end was getting old. Yeah it pulled violent wheelies but i swear it toped out at 20,000 rpm anyways.. the results are amazing! Its still very powerfull and pulls the wheels like mad on my t-maxx but now it has good top end. I previously had the shift point set at the RPM limit of the unported 24.7 and would struggle to get to the shift point. After porting, whew!, it would hit that shift point RPM in a flash and get up and scream nicely in second.

Whats my point to posting this in the LM forum?.. well.. With this porting my second 24.7 may now have a home on my LM2 becase the only downfall of the 24.7 was the total lack of RPM. The hyper lacks upper rpm too but the XTM has less. anyways the 2nd 24.7 may be going onto the LM2 soon in ported form. :)

[Redfox]

The tank was already in the position furthest away from the clutchbell and it still rubbed... and i don't think the chassis is bowed enough to put that much stress in it!! The chassis is mainly bowed at the front before the side kick ups in the chassis start... the prob is that i can't get the broken pilot shaft outta the clutchbell cos it's on bearings and i can't get a grip on it. Also, i gotta buy new spurs... weird thing is that i think it mismeshed with a spur which put undue stress on the pilot shaft and snapped it... cos the first gear isn't broken off at the tip of each tooth, but reath each tooth seems to have been sliced vertically in half if you know what i mean...
I dunno what to do... if i could return it i would... get shocks or something. :(

[jeroen]

Sixvi6 can you post a oic of a stock XTM sleeve and a Ported XTM sleeve.

I'm getting my XTM very soon.

I'm porting my bluehead gs21r now, At least I think I'm doing it maybe I'm screwing it up, but what the heck it is already a bad engine.

I'm also polishing the hole gs21 outside of the engine, looks realy cool a polished engine and tuned pipe.

[Unobjectionable]

cool, i wanna see that when you finish

chris, try putting a thick nylon tiewrap in the exhaust port, this will keep the crank from turning and you should be able to get the pilotshaft out without damaging anything inside the engine

[SixVi6]

Hopfully I can get some pics. I gave my old school Kodak to my sister to take to college and I've been trying to get a hold of my mom so I can get her nice new camera to get some good pics.

I've mounted the un-ported 24.7 on the LM2 and broken it in. I like to break them in before I port them. After its run it leaves a nice set of lines on the sleve from the fuel where the ports run across it. I'm planning on doing the same at the t-maxx's 24.7 as far as porting. this would be sleve orting and carb inlet and outlet radiusing. I'll be tearing down the 24.7 tonight so if I get the camera I'll post the pics a bit later. Then I'll reassemble it and seal it up just a bit to be safe and run it. I also mounted the new set of slicks onto the rims today. woo! I can't wait till I get this done. :)

[cleanmaxx brian]

How would you guys compare the Ofna GTP to the Landmax? I know the GTP is onroad but it is bigger. If I was only to run in a parking lot would it be a better choice?

To be honest, I am leaning much towards the Landmax. I would be buying it new. Any options I should do right away? I will be using Hi Tec 645mg servos, 1100 battery, failsafe and my Airtronics M8. I am sure I will need a new set of tires and rims I guess for street use. I do not think I will do the 2 speed. I am looking to make a drifting machine!!!:D

[SixVi6]

Hey its cleanmaxx! hehe.. my answer to the GTP vs LM? well my answer is Landmax all the way!!! lol... a couple of the people here actually most of them replied to you on maxxtraxx as well. I'm of course SixVi6-Camaro.. and Unobjectable is BooCake... over at MaxxTraxx, lol..

OK and now LM2 mods to do right away.

Replace the stock steering linkage that runs from the bellcrank to the servo with a threaded rod. The stock linkage is a thin wire with a collar at the end. if the collar slips you loose steering!

The stock tires will be goners soon and they are not the greatest traction. The slick tires last the longest and thus far have the most grip of all the rest of the Kyosho tires but if its a dusty lot the slicks will be quite a ride. there is a post on the previous page aobut using some Proline Road rage's on LM2 rims and from the initial results they work great and they are cheap.

Get some silicone in the diffs. I'm currently running 5000 front, 7,000 center, and 1000 rear. It will give you most more controllable steering especially when you are drifting around turns. Other than that build it like the instructions and blast away! Later on get some better shocks but seriously for parking lot bashing the stock plastic ones work pertty well. Hopfully someday I'll get some real shocks. lol!

The stock engine is not that great. Its super simple to break in and idles and runs fine its just not a powerfull engine. I'm currently working on porting a 24.7 and droping it into the LM2 and taking out the nightmare hyper .21 out. With a large 17t or 18t clutchbell on a hyper .21 or even better a 24.7 its a blast and has lots of power. But the stock engine will get you going and be a lot of fun to run.. I hope this helps.

ported 24.7 update on my LM2!. .
well I've not ported it yet. in fact its still in one piece on the workbench. I've been working on a rearend swap in my camaro (I can't get that gear oil smell off me!!!) hopfully by monday the LM2 will be running the ported 24.7 just like my t-maxx and yes I'll get those pics of the ported version for sure. :)

John

[cleanmaxx brian]

Whoa nice reply John!

You are going to laugh but I had such a hard time deciding that I ordered BOTH into my hobby shop! I think the Landmax is the way to go though and I should have it by Thursday:p I will use your set up with the diff oils and I will leave the plastic shocks for now. As for the motor, I will run the stock for awhile to get used to it. I picked up one of the new 8 port hypers and LOVE it! :D Currently it is in my home newly built 8 scale sand rail! It RIPS! That will be the future motor for the LM for sure;) I compared that motor to the 247 and it seamed to me the 247 had gobs of power but would not rev. The 8 port had "almost" the torque but would rev much better. Maybe after your porting job it will breath a little better? That should allow it to rev more right?

I am also working on getting a Mad Force too! So I should have lots of new toys soon;) I just sold my T-Maxx for 1,300 without electronics so I have a little extra "play money":D

Thanks for all the help! I am sure once I get the LM I will have more questions:rolleyes: :D

Brian

[Pr0k]

John: You and Bookcake should ask kyosho for for referal fees!

Brian: Welcome to the wonderful world of Rally cars, you are going to be suprised at how nice the lm2 will be right out of the box, not that any of us will be satisfied with stock but unlike the traxxas stuff the quality from kyosho doesn't need to be replaced right out of the box. Dont get me wrong I have a 4tec that I play around the driveway with but, it aint no Landmax. anyway i am no expert but do alot of reading on rally cars the gtp looks decent too but i really haven't seen any in person so Maybe you can give us a review on both when you get them!

[cleanmaxx brian]

I have seen a GTP run and I can tell you this:
It is BIG:eek: 3 inches longer and 3 inches wider than a LM!!!
It is FAST but I am sure the LM is just as fast out of the box. The difference between the force .21 and the Kyosho motor can't be that much.
It is low to the ground:( It has 1/2 the ground clearance! This was the deciding factor for me. Becouse my new care will never hit the track and will be used solely in the street/ bumpy parking lot I figure this is the way to go.

MMMMM A rally car for the TARMAC:D
Brian

[SixVi6]

haha! both dang. Well that will be interesting to the the differences. I've seen one GTP run and was impressed with the speed and handling it had but it was powered by a Collari Picco on road engine and it broke on the track. I just could not get over the totally silly out of scale look of the body And knowing that if I broke it it would be a long wait for parts from my LHS. They stock most 7.5 parts and hop ups but nobody stocks Ofna anything.. why is that? anyways, it sounds like you are going to be busy!

Yup the porting of the 24.7 on my tmaxx really gave it some great RPM and smoothed out that insane explosive low end that I've now grown sick of. Wheelies are cool but they get old. hehe.. The lack of RPM is why I didn't put my recently aquired 24.7 onto my LM2. the purple head Hyper that I had on there was better in the top RPM department than the 24.7 although my Hyper was and still is just not the most reliable. soon the ported 24.7 will on there.

Oh well.. back to workin on the Camaro and that nasty gear oil scent.

[cleanmaxx brian]

Well plans changed...I am NOT getting the GTP becouse I just bought a Mad Force! If you want to see it go to e-bay and put in auction number 1762120237

But the Landmax is still comming!!!:D

Does anyone have one of those fancy money trees?;)

Brian:cool:

[jeroen]

buzzinhornets was the first owner of it at the Madforce forum at maxxtraxx.

I hope too see ya there as well .

I also own a madforce and a landmax.
It's a good and fun rc car combination.
I use the landmax only for onroad, cause the MF can do much better offroad and so I keep my landmax clean.

[Unobjectionable]

that looks like "BuzzinHornets" mad force (from maxxtraxx mad force folder) so ask him for the maxxtraxx discount...eheh...thats a nice chunk o change but fair i guess, considering everything is included (nice stuff too) and he has probably done most of the durability mods...you are gonna love that thing...

can't help you out on the money tree, i would settle for a money BUSH at this point...i just keep telling myself how much better (cheaper) we have it than some other rc hobbies (boats, planes, helicopters, BATTLEBOTS etc) hahaha

now that we have some privacy, i will give you my REAL opinion of the GTP...it's a POS, hong nor is crap, they should stay away from pillowball suspension until they learn how to make things out of STEEL instead of the pot metal they use for those balls, the ring and pinion and everything else...they copied kyoshos idea from ten years ago, and still failed to make a better car...and like john said, most of the bodies look dumb too, totally TEAM PLAYSKOOL RACING

how's that for honesty? nothing against ofna, but all of their GOOD stuff is made by ho bao (monster pirate, hyper 7, everything else with hyper in the name etc)

/rant

needless to say, i think you made the right choice with the LM2....very solid kit out of the box, will handle any engine you might want to put in it later with minimal upgrades (mmmm 8 port hyper, now $120 at ultimate as predicted) and even has some parts compatibility with your new MAD FORCE (same diffs and a couple other things)...john gave you some excellent tips there, don't forget to check (and shim if necessary) the diffs in both to prevent any nasty surprises, and use THROTTLE RETURN SPRINGS on both ($3 for 2 at the hardware store) for the same reason...

i think your only problem with be finding enough time to play with all your toys

[Unobjectionable]

damn you jeroen, beat me to the punch...ehehe

btw i wasn't trying to jump down your neck the other day with that one post, it's just that maxxtraxx basically has two types of users:

1.) older (20-40) guys with more money than sense (like us)
2.) 13 year old ADD kids whose mommy and daddy bought them a tmaxx/whatever for their birthday

if you spend all your time going after #2 over there, you won't accomplish anything except frustrating yourself, just ignore them or give a link to one of the MF sites and let them figure it out for themselves...just remember that, in a way, you are acting as a representative to the hobby in general...(it did make me laugh though, i was waiting for you to start cursing him in dutch "KUT HOER MOEDERNEUKER MONGOOL!")

[Pr0k]

hahah yeah you can only try to help some kids so much before frustration sets in(almost as bad as old senile folks). You are right about the representative part though.
Mad Force does look mucho cool it is on my buy list some day!

[Unobjectionable]

yeah me too, but i wanna put a landmax body on mine

[jeroen]

Can you realy speak dutch?

Or is it just, those kind of words you know.

[Unobjectionable]

that is most of my vocabulary right there

[cleanmaxx brian]

Yes I bought Buxxhornets Mad Force. Chris seams like a real nice guy who took his time building and doing everything right. I cant wait for delivery. BTW he did cut me a deal...not what the auction ended for;) I got a very fair deal IMHO. It is like being a kid again at 34;)
Unobjectionable I guess that makes me #1;) "older (20-40) guys with more money than sense (like us)"
:D

****************************
now that we have some privacy, i will give you my REAL opinion of the GTP...it's a POS, hong nor is crap, they should stay away from pillowball suspension until they learn how to make things out of STEEL instead of the pot metal they use for those balls, the ring and pinion and everything else...they copied kyoshos idea from ten years ago, and still failed to make a better car...and like john said, most of the bodies look dumb too, totally TEAM PLAYSKOOL RACING

how's that for honesty? nothing against ofna, but all of their GOOD stuff is made by ho bao (monster pirate, hyper 7, everything else with hyper in the name etc)
****************************

I am glad you said that:) I have never been an Ofna fan but the size of that car was pulling me:eek: The bodys all look horable except for the Porsche 911 IMO. As for getting parts my LHS stocks Ofna but NOT Kyosho. Even still I know Kyosho makes a better product. This is my first kyosho product but from what I have read, it is top notch and you pay for it.

My RC stable right now consists of:
Kyosho Landmax- new this week:D
Kyosho Mad Force- Buzzhornets truck:cool:
Jugg2 with New Era tube frame, ESP long wheel base, Novak SR,XXL, digital servo... $$$ So nice it has never been drivin!
TXT-1 Mahams, SR, XXL, Big Bores, Locked diffs, Ram sound kit-what I run when I want to run my Jugg2:D
Pejero Locked rear diff with Tamiya parts;) oil shockx, Reactor, XXL, Hi Tec 645MG
Losi MF XXXT Brand new for the fall season:cool: Novak TC2, XXL, Digital servo, 14 turn double:eek:
MRC Nitro Thunder King. The ultimate basher! NO RC CAN TAKE WHAT THIS CAN...period! 3 Hi Tec 645mg servos, home made stuff to make it even stronger!
MRC Nitro Thunder King Sand Rail! Yup my own creation! A mix of a MRC Desert Thunder, Baja King, and powered with a 8 port Hyper .21 and it weighs less than 7 pounds! You get the idea :cool:
AE Factory Team TC3 This was my racer last season. Needless to say $$$ TC2, XXL, digital servo, Blue Aliminum for show but not enough to slow me down;)
AE RC10 Worlds car
AE RC10 NEW BUILT perfect in every way. from 1983
AE RC10 NEW in the box with the shrink wrap also from 1983
Big Bear New Built
MRC Desert Thunder NIB never touched
Tamiya Black Foot original in very good condition

PHEW I think that is it! What do you think?:cool:

Brian Married to a very understanding wife! and have the cutest little girl at 3 yrs old named Sarah

And my other hobby;)
http://www.jbl.com/car/GTi/gti_installs_3.asp

[jeroen]

Holy **** that are many cars you have.

Is that your real car, or is it just an example

[cleanmaxx brian]

Yup! That is my SE-R! It is a 1991 with 16,865 smiles on it:D It now gets about 100 miles a year on it going on and off the flatbed to visit shows...

Brian
Becouse some people might get annoyed me talking on here about 1/1 cars, you can e-mail me at thebman31@juno.com and I can give more info if interested.

[Unobjectionable]

now that's what i call a list!

i would love to see some pics of some of that, especially the MRC stuff...i always thought that was a great idea, and i remember the old ads with them ramming the thunder king into a concrete block over and over (and over)..and that sand rail sounds awesome

my collection is not quite as impressive, but not bad for an older guy on a budget (ehehe)

2 kyosho supereights (the 959 and the calsonic)
4 kyosho LM1s, in various stages of disassembly
2 kyosho infernos, one of which is a turbo inferno (parts car)
BOXES of crap for the above (tower loves me)
1 losi rally weapon, NIB with some extra street weapon parts
1 ofna/ho bao pirate 10 SE (200mm .12 tourer w/2 speed), new, still unfinished
1 ae rc10gt (old black tub version which i have some plans for, currently in storage a few states away)
1 tamiya 67 beetle, NIB (well, i opened it), had 2 but sold the other last week to support my kyosho addiction
1 tamiya TL-01 "rally" escort, utterly demolished and also in storage, this car will donate it's goodies for the beetle
1 taiyo/tyco canned heat honda s2000, awaiting conversion to 1:32 tamiya unimog body
2 tomy bit char-gs (celica and rx-7, tower needs to get those skyline bodies IN STOCK)

my lexan collection is kinda scary too, all new and unpainted

1 r32 skyline body for the supereight
2 landmax bodies (r34 skyline and toyota hatchback)
1 kyosho porsche 906 (200mm)
1 kyosho porsche 911 GT2 (200mm)
1 kyosho porsche slantnose 911 (aka 931) superten, i still dont have a car to fit this body ahaha
1 kyosho bmw 320 (FINA racecar)
1 kyosho vw baja beetle (this one is for the GT)
and a bunch of misc. 200mm bodies from ebay (protoform, hpi etc) which is were most of the cars above came from

i think thats it...will accept $1,000,000 for the lot!

good lord i need help...and oh yeah, i drive an 88 acura legend i bought for $1500, and the stereo doesnt work...I HAVE PRIORITIES DAMMIT ehehe

[cleanmaxx brian]

:LOL at Unobjectionable! "good lord i need help...and oh yeah, i drive an 88 acura legend i bought for $1500, and the stereo doesnt work...I HAVE PRIORITIES DAMMIT ehehe":D :D :D

OK here is a picture before I sold one of my Thunder Kings to get my Sand Rail project going. This does not include the new MF and Landmax of course. It also does not show my TC3 Factory Team...The RC10 on the right is the new built and the box it is on is still sealed.
I will post a pic of my Sand Rail...

[cleanmaxx brian]

And the Sand Rail...I have brand new paddles ready to go on red rims:D All that is left is making the cage.

[Unobjectionable]

that is one sweet pile of toys right thar

those thunder kings absolutely dwarf everything else...the poor little marui looks scared...ehehhe

i think you will love your LM2 and mad force..btw, glad to hear you got a good deal on the MF, that auction price did make me do a double-take

and don't worry about the chitchat, nobody reads this crap anyway

ohhhh that is cool

[cleanmaxx brian]

My new electric MRC Desert Thunder...:cool: This is now out of production and that body is RARE! They never made a Nitro version.

[cleanmaxx brian]

Look but don't build!:D

[Unobjectionable]

hahah damn collectors!...you don't wanna know what i paid for those beetles, suffice it to say i broke my own cardinal rule of "NEVER PAY MORE THAN RETAIL"...did okay selling the one though, and the other WILL be built...i have some of the chrome mini cooper rims for it (empi 8 spoke lookalikes) so it will be one mean, slammed cal-look beetle with vintage green machine and rooster esc, restricted to riding the shelf and maybe a little living room cat chasing action...eheh

http://***********/gp20/misc/KRAFT-DURCH-FREUDE.jpg

[cleanmaxx brian]

:cool: NICE!!!:cool:

Something about old kits new in a box;)

You too have quite a collection!!!!!!!
Where abouts do you live? I am on Long Island New York. I would love to see your collection of Kyosho!

[Redfox]

Brian, could you please send me an offcut of your money tree down here to australia so that i can cultivate a few of my own?! I don't know what the aussie customs and agriculture would have to say, but we needn't tell them... might **** up the economy or something :D

Seriously tho, that is a pretty hefty stash of cars mate!

I really wanna buy a LM2 or 1/8 MP7.5 or GS Storm buggy now.... the LM1 has been giving me the sh1ts...

Although i did get it running on friday arvo, and it kept running til i ran outta fuel. I leaned out the low end a little bit so it wouldn't choke itself to death, and i turned up the idle a tad. Did quite a few high speed runs and the engine overheated quite a bit, but it kept running. I even got the tires screeching! Yeah that's right!! Screechin!! Cos i was running the raly tires with my super hard homemade foam inserts and i did a high speed run and then flicked it full right lock and the car slid sideways and i heard it skidding. I was like "WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

Then the steering stuffed up. I dunno what it is. It just wouldn't turn right and i knew it was the radio gear or the steering servo. I just don't know how to diagnose the prob because last nite i replaced my TX batts and tried the steering wivout the car running and it worked fine. But on friday it would have trouble turning in one direction and by the end of the day it just would hardly turn in that direction. When i looked at it, the steering when turning left would just glitch bigtime and wouldn't go. So i dunno if it's a busted servo or my radio gear is shot.

Also, i might go back to the off road tracks. This handling business on tarmac is pretty dodgy when you have these crappy leaking blue plastic shocks. I had the rears hardened up real good for off road fun, and then when i was driving the LM on the netball courts, if i turned hart left or right, the rear opposite tire would lift up off the ground and then when you gas it, the tire would hit the tarmac again and grip and make the car fully understeer... if you know what i mean. The weird thing is that i have rear sway bars on. It ain't supposed to do that eh!?

Anywayz... hrmmm

[Unobjectionable]

disconnect the steering linkage and see what the problem is there...you are lifting the tire most likely because you have the preload cranked, and travel limited at the same time...so the two sides are kinda fighting each other when you turn...since you are using the rear swaybar, you can run the suspension a little softer back there...

brian, i'm in sunny (rainy) southern florida....the kyosho collection sounds more impressive than it looks at the moment, but i will see if i can't drag it all outside tomorrow and get a photo just for kicks

[cleanmaxx brian]

Thanks Redfox! It seems over the last few days I picked so many of those green leaves off!!! I hope I didn't kill it!:D Over 1,200 leaves in the last week!!! Actually below was my money tree;) Parted and sold it off on e-bay to the tune of $1,313 WITHOUT electronics! I knew I was at the point of spending STUPID money on it as I had found out how much I like Super Maxx stuff! (I had the 10mm tranny and servo saver).

Nakid and clean! ;)

[cleanmaxx brian]

And becouse I will shurely hear "wow that is clean, did you ever run it?"

I love to "detail" RC's:D

[Unobjectionable]

hahah, i kinda figured the "cleanmaxx" was a tipoff

i am looking forward to seeing what you do with the MF, i personally think kyosho has hit one out of the ballpark with it, if they can just keep a steady supply of em coming in...

[tl_ke_racer]

do you guys no if a landmax body will fit a nitro demon i wanna turn my nitro demon into a rally.

[Redfox]

Ok... few probs to fix up now. I have castor sprayed all over the inside of my LM!!! There is heaps of castor coming out the front end bearing.

Also, i think i have figured out why my pull start is slipping... the pull start cord rubs on the pink RX cover everytime you pull it and deposits a lot of black black black oil that must be leaking through the one way or something. So i think i may need to rip off the pullstart and clean it out or something.

Also, the clutch bell looks really loose on the pilot shaft (i re-installed the stock single speed). Like if you pull the pullstart and look at the clutch bell it looks like it is spinning around off centre and wonky. And if you go to move it, you can move it around a bit. Also, for some weird reason there seems to be more space in between the fan pulley and the end of the clutch bell than there used to be. So i dunno what is wrong there.

I bought a new clutch the other day so i think i will install that. Otherwise i think the car is runnin ok. Oh actually, one more thing... the car has majorly reduced braking. I can be on full brakes and the car will still move forward slightly on idle. I think it's because brake assembly is covered in castor that has come out the front end bearing of the engine!! So i think i will have to take it apart tonite and clean up the brake discs and the composite pads!!!

Argh the troubles never stop with this infernal (no pun intended!! get it?? infernal... inferno... mwahahah ok don't worry... hehe) machine! I want a landmax 2 damnit!!! Gimme gimme gimme!!

[Unobjectionable]

you would still have to take care of it, you silly person...and please don't tell me you are using the long two-speed pilot shaft with the single speed bell...check that out and make sure you haven't done anything i would have to slap you for (again)...

put in that clutch and check those brakes and pound that chassis flat and you might be okay...haha

tl- i checked the specs on the nitro demon at tower, they say 255mm wide and 325mm wheelbase, which lines up nicely with the landmax bodies...you will have the coolest nitro demon in town, but they are expensive...

whos ready for a PIC FRENZY? i dragged a bunch of stuff out in the yard today

RC JUNKYARD! (http://***********/gp20/misc/collectards07.jpg) this is all the kyosho family except for the supereights, another whole car in the box, and easily another one in parts
OVERPRICED LEXAN! (http://***********/gp20/misc/collectards08.jpg) landmax toyota and my cute lil baja beetle, with some 200mm in the background
YET MORE LEXAN! (http://***********/gp20/misc/collectards09.jpg) the beetle again, and the superten 911 slant
TAKE A WILD GUESS! (http://***********/gp20/misc/collectards10.jpg) supereight r32 skyline and landmax r34 skyline, dunno why i put the stickers underneath..oh yeah because i'm an idiot

more crap most of you have seen already:

the supereights (http://***********/gp20/misc/collectards01.jpg)
supereight vs. landmax (http://***********/gp20/misc/collectards02.jpg)
THE INFAMOUS GHETTOMASTER (http://***********/gp20/misc/collectards03.jpg) landmax body on the supereight

[tl_ke_racer]

can anyone sell me a used ok condition landmax body for my demon i dont really got the cash to buy a new one and paitn it, i got 41 bucks if anyone can sell me one i would really appreciate ti i just hate the stock body on the demon it looks so stupid what in the **** was duratrax thinkin!

[cleanmaxx brian]

Whoa! NICE collection! That there is some $$$$ plastic;)
I never realized how much bigger the super 8 was compared to the landmax! What moter is that in there with the small head? They were .21 powered right?
Brian

[Redfox]

Crap... i've pulled off the pullstart and the spring uncoiled... rather, i uncoiled it cos i couldn't get the ned of the spring to sit in that groove in the plastic wheel which the string wraps around... any hints anyone?

Oh, and bukkake, nah i wasn't using the 2speed pilot shaft... i don't think i'm that dumb... hehehe but i pulled it apart and found another blown apart clutch... so i just installed a new clutch and it's ok... i'm gonna clean up the car and fix up the brakes and it should be sweet again...

the failsafe is pissin me off... and now that i have a TRS i might take out the failsafe...

i'll keep ya updated :D

[XysteR]

Finally got my landmax back to mint condition (ahem, apart from a few nasty lookin' splits in the shell) i've stuck it in the atic cos i feel a project comin' on...

I wanna go bigger and buggier. Summin around 1/4 scale or bigger should do and all mostly home made. Well when i say home made i have access to a workshop with lots of precision machinery and a very clever, technically minded engineer. Thing is i really need some ideas, tips and maybe someone has a weblink to building your own large scale buggy? It has to be light, very strong yet simple in design. First things first tho. I'm gonna have to look at a suitable power source to begin with then build from that. It'll take a good few months but i feel it'll be worth the time & money in the end. This idea spawned after i obtained a 1 X 0.5 meter piece of 7mm thick titanium sheet. Wonder what i could use that for? lol Anywayz, some feedback would be nice.

Thanks in advance.

Xy.

[tl_ke_racer]

r u plannin gon using a weedwacker motor liek the monster buggy so u can use normal gasoline?

[tl_ke_racer]

no one has a old body they can sell me?

[Redfox]

Xyster, i would probably refer to that as "plate", not sheet!! hehe that sound smad tho. Wish i had a 7mm thick titanium plate. I would make myself a new chassis...

I think my bent chassis could have been from those many months ago when i did some massive jumps off an embankment... the same one which bent the whole front of my mates chassis 60degrees... hehehe

I got the pullstart together again. I figured that instead of coiling it inside the casing and then shoving in the string coil wheel in and fiddling around, it's better to lock the end into the plastic string coil wheel and then coil the spring and then shove it in the PS housing to let it grab the notch when it uncoils itself....... if you know what i mean! hehehe

I am gonna take it out for a run today so i will be able to work out what is wrong with the car now that i've fixed up the major probs. I think i've sorted out the braking prob... i shortened the fuel tubing on the linkage a bit and cleaned the discs and the pads... although it will only take a few mins of running and they will be drenched in castor again! Could this excess leakage of castor be because i took out that mutilated shim from between the front end bearing and the thick black metal drive washer??

Oh for future reference, what is the best way to clean a one way in the PS?? i just sprayed it out wiv WD40... prolly not the best way to get it to stop slipping.... hrmmmmmm

Hopefully my servo/radio system has worked itself out so that i can now turn left... with any luck that is... if not i will prolly only be able to zoom up and down the courts...

:D

[XysteR]

Yip normal gasoline.. I've been looking at a few different power sorces and im still debating on which one i should get.. But for now i'm keeping myself in a kind of "overkill mood" (More power than i need) I have a few things sketched up on how its all gonna work out and when i said simple i mean simple.. This thing will hopefuly take no time to clean/repair etc lol I've only worked things out for 2WD but my heart keeps saying "If you gonna do it do it 4WD" The only thing is this would complicate things a lot. I'm gonna have a look around for something suitable to make it 4WD but i aint 100% sure if i'll go that way yet. 2WD alone will still be a blast. When i get started with the project i'll upload some pictures to my webspace of how the projects coming on. I'll only have joe (the engineer and good friend of my father) 2 hours every sunday morning and wednesday evening until the projects finished. I've already offered to pay him but he just said "Oh its ok, i enjoy this sort of thing anyway" to which i though yip fekin' eee! lol. Free help like this from a man who makes unbelievably intricate technical marvels of machinery :-P I'll be keeping the CAD designs etc as we go along for future reference. Joe said when we get started its not a problem to make a few of each part we make so thats handy.. And upto now that includes chassis. But i doubt i'll be needing the spare chassis for a while.. Maybe i could build 2? lol only 1 for now then god knows what will happen later. Anyways its gonna take a short while before hand touches metal so for now i'll keep on researching.

Xy.

[XysteR]

Just had a few words with joe on the phone. It seems hes happy to make differentials for 4WD. His only concern at the minute is the COG and engine positioning. Before we can start anything we need to do some maths to figure out where everything will sit. However, he doesn't like the idea of a side mounted engine. He said we need to aim at a centrally mounted configuration. He suggested making a chassis from aluminium until all the problems are ironed out. This will enable us to test the performance and adjust to suit before letting the machinery go to work on the titanium chassis. Good idea eh? I didn't think about that :P The second chassis seems out of the question though. Seems that the spare is gonna be the diff housing, shock mounts etc. Oh, check this out!! Even the drive gearing can be cut from titanium :P Joe said i have grade 4 titanium. Apparently thats the hardest titanium available. grade 1 is the softest. Grade 1 is apparently used a lot when welding is needed. Grade 4 is mainly for sheer strength, hardness. although it can be welded it doesn't weld as good as the lower grades. But welding aint involved at all here so that makes no difference. I'm off to have a peep at a few motors & wheels etc.


Xy.

[Unobjectionable]

i think a 1:4 scale buggy would scare the hell out of anyone who saw it, cool idea and will surely be a neat design project...i think i would go the junkyard route and put in a 125cc two stroke bike engine and the rear end out of a riding lawnmower...be good for smoky burnouts and an easy 70mph (with optional third channel remote-shift 5 speed setup)...ehehehe

tl, i could sell you one of those escort bodies if you want, they are both pretty ugly though

brian, the supereights are about 1.75" wider than the landmax, same car with longer (inferno) a-arms, and they sorta scaled the whole body (and rims) up a little from landmax size to compensate...the cars are actually just a bit larger than the GTPs (a foot wide and two feet long) and so much prettier...i think kyosho is missing out on some possible sales here, wonder how many people would buy a 7.5 based 959...

the blocky little head shown in the pic of the calsonic is the old version of the GS-21...you can tell it cranks out the power just by looking at it huh? heres (http://***********/gp20/Calsonic/calskyline014.jpg) another pic of that beast

[XysteR]

you know i never thought of that Unobjectionable.. A 125cc engine from a tuned up kawasaki AR125 would be a hoot. Big chunky liquid cooled radiator on the front with chunky bullbars lmfao.. Eeeek its too fast! wonder how many wheelbarrow tyres that would go through a week? lol

Oh, on a low note.. I took my landmax for a spin today and as it was wizzin' along it cracked to a sudden halt then moved on and seemed ok.. Upon inspection when i brought it back i noticed i bent the front left corner of the chassis nearly back over the diff housing screw. Its a buckin omen i tell ya!. Just when i was talkin "new chassis" etc i go and hit the one, small, but high enough to bend a chassis "raised steel drain" in 1 acre of tar and bend my buckin' chassis.. It really hissed me off bigtime. I'm gonna have to strip the front end down and mash it back a bit with a weighty hammer. its only about 2cm in the very corner and it seems like it should mash back okish.. But, alas time will tell. I'll die fixin' things i just know it.. I'll be 73 yrs old fixin my granddaughters pushbike or summin and i'll pop me clogs there & then... Kaput! gone! I actually believe that im gettin more veins in my forehead from tightening nuts & bolts & shite like that and i'm in paranoia of a serious hernia lmfao

Xy.

[tl_ke_racer]

hey can u email me at spiderpaz@earthlink.net about the bodies if you got pics send me some.

[tl_ke_racer]

can u emaiil me about th body?

[Unobjectionable]

sent you some pics, i told you they were ugly...eheheh


there was a used GT-30 in towers scratch and dent section for a few days, it went from $35 to $32 so i said what the hell and bought it (and a few other things)...i can't resist a deal, i'm just worried it might be chris's old one (ehehe kidding)

[cleanmaxx brian]

Well here it is!!! My new Landmax2. All I am waiting on is diff oil and a failsafe and then it is break in time:) I will be running a Hi Tec HS5925MG for steering and a HS645MG for throttle/brake. I am also using a Novak XXL with my Airtronics M8. I put bearings in the steering bellcranks and dyed the wheels to match the real car. The kit took 1/2 the time as the body! I went out of my way to make the body perfect...9 full hours worth! What do you think???

[cleanmaxx brian]

another shot...

[cleanmaxx brian]

and yet another shot...

[cleanmaxx brian]

And all these shots were taken with maximium ride height...It will drop about 1/2 when it is set up for tarmac! ;)

[Pr0k]

[B]Looking sweet

[SixVi6]

lookin good cleanmaxx! I remember when I first got myine all done for the first time. I can almost smell that new RC scent in my mind.. ahhhh.. memoires. :)


OK I;ve been sick most of the week and felt better yesterday and have had one crazy weekend.. yesterday in the morning I took a trip to my LHS and behold who is there.. I limo full of Japanese people in the RC section from Tamiya, and here because of the Chicago RC show! I walked in holding my t-maxx and ended up talking to a couple of them quite a bit about why I bought what I did and what I thought about all RC products. I later went and grabbed my LM2 and showed that off to the Tamiya peeps. They seemed to be really interested in 1/8 scale cars and .21 powered monsters as well as the small scale stuff right now that is where the money is and Tamiya is not getting any of it. It was very surreal and strange. just not an everyday kind of thing.

after that I bought my gallon of fuel and finally got to run my LM2 with the ported 24.7 yesterday. I love it! Tons of power and it revs better than the hyper .21 by a good amount. I couldn't get the pictures of the porting though I had no access to a camera. :(

Lastly today I went to the Chicago hobby show! Lots of fun but I'm thinking it will be the last year. Many of the manufactures are not planning on going next year. Anyways I grabbed lots of product pamphlets stickers and talked to lots of people. I'm really liking the 1/4 scale stuff.. man that stuff is just too cool and talked to two XTM product reps about the 24.7 funny part is one of them new me because I posted the 24.7 and megatech pics on Maxxtraxx.. lol. Also a friend of mine in the market for a new .21 power RC said the Ofna GTP was way better in looks and all than the LM2. lol.. then we stopped by the Ofna booth. I'm sorry but the GTP looks sooo silly. On the electric front the brushless systems all have my attention.. its expensive but heck I've already got visions of my junk 1/10 Bolink and 12 cells of brushless motor passing cars on the expressway or heck a de-nitro'd LM hmmm.. . anyways its been blast this weekend I'll now be up al night thinking of all the RC overload of the weekend.

John

[jeroen]

Nice looking landmax 2.

I like the look of your colored wheels

[cleanmaxx brian]

Hey guys, I just picked up 2 pair of these for 16buck in the clearance bin. How do you think they will work on the Landmax2??? Also what rims can we use? Anything with a 19mm hex right??? This includes what other brands?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXVH17&P=0

[ThorBobRC]

AWESOME looking Landmax Brian, I'm green with envy! And you did one heck of a job on that body, it looks perfect!

Thor

[Unobjectionable]

welcome to rcca you crazy guy...i think your project is putting us all to shame already...

john, sounds like you had fun...any new landmax bodies? ehehe...and i agree the gtp is just clownish looking, hard not to with the giant (relative to scale anyway) wheels...the thunder tigers have the same thing going on, for the same reason...

brian, the nitro demon tires should fit, but i don't know that they will be all that great...the ND owners don't seem too impressed by em, but they do look nice and chunky...make for a nice show in loose dirt i bet...the duratrax also use the 19mm hub so you could conceiveably use the nitro demon rims too, though i believe they have 6mm axles, so you would have to drill the holes out a little...and they are not particularly cheap anyway...the rims on the landmax ST (ford truck) are the same size as all the landmax wheels (so they can fit the regular LM tires), and have a similar chromed "centerline" type look...i got a set on one of the used cars, chrome is missing in places but should give you the idea...click heah (http://***********/gp20/misc/tires.jpg)...

[ThorBobRC]

Awww shucks...here I come to meet new and interesting people and all I see are the same ole faces....:D /jk.

I'm still tinkering along on my li'll project, got me a goodie-bag from Tower (my current LHS - LOL) containing a bunch of bearings, 2 pairs of GP-20 shafts and some smooooth moving IFW30/31 shocks. Add to this the new Picco/Omega engine & pipe I just received and you'll see why my bank manager feels that you Landmax guys are such a bad influence....:D.

A question on bodies; I have already ordered me a Imprezza lid, being a WRC fan and with P Solberg (in a Suba) being "our" guy I just had to have it. And I do luv the looks of it. But for actual "rough riding" I figure a somewhat shorter body might be a good idea, something with a minimum of overhang. Any suggestions as to what might be best? 206 maybe?

Thor

[XysteR]

I remember when my LM used to look like that.. All new & shiney.. Spent all day on my shell too. Broke the engine in. Then broke the shell in too on the same day :P. 40+ Mph roll.. Yes, on tarmac. Ahem. I nearly cried but then that "Oh what the f**k its gonna get scratched to hell anyway" feeling came over me. lmfao but in all honesty my face musta looked like a spanked baby's arse as i watched it tumble over & over :( We all know it. We've all been there. And lookin back its half the fun of it ;)

Nice job though, wheels look nice. When ya have your first tumble take another pic & post it up here :) Infact theres a thing.. If anyone has a sad story about their new car getting trashed and photos of the concequences, post em up here. We all hate it to happen but we love it too. Its a kinda test. Once you mash it you feel its time to really thrash it. :P

Xy

[Unobjectionable]

yeah, the only bad thing about those pretty bodies is how it actually HURTS if you wreck...kinda like the real thing..ehehe

thor, i agree the hatchbacks (peugeot and toyota) are probably the best for crazy offroading...you will have to trim up the front spoiler on either a bit to get the best ground clearance, but they do have the least overhang front and rear...they are also physically the largest bodies since the actual 1:1 cars have a shorter wheelbase than a subaru or volvo s40 etc. and the smaller cars are scaled up a bit to compensate...

p.s. nice pic of the peugeot, i still can't find the part number for the rims that come on it, i would like a set

http://***********/gp20/misc/206.jpg

[ThorBobRC]

Ahhh...I did not think about the "size/scale" effect for those shorter cars, but that does make sense! Man, I do like the looks of the 206, but sheesh...with the price of these lids who can afford to buy a dedicated "basher body"...LOL!

Here's a quick shot of the real thang; Richard Burns about to ruin his chances in Rally Finland - he hit this jump doing 172 KM/H (yes, on gravel), bent the front of the chassis on impact thus killing his turbo. Made for one heck of a jump though....:D

http://www.tnett.no/thorbob/RC_pix/Stuff/Burns-45-jump.jpg

Thor

[tl_ke_racer]

I remember watching that rally thing just nose dived going really quick i beleive the mitsubishi lancer caught the most air that day though.

[SixVi6]

Here is the latest pic of my LM2 after a bit of a cleaning with the ported 24.7 and just about all the gold parts de-annod. This thing flies with the ported 24.7 in it. 18 tooth clutchbell and it still can spin all four from a standstill and has a sick top end too.

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_44.jpg

hmmm.. but what to do now? I have an old stock HPI RS42 without and engine and a hyper .21 without a car.. hmmm...

John

[Unobjectionable]

ooooh that is sweet, looks very "serious"

btw, a tip for you LM2 owners i recently figgered out...the old style aluminum hubs (KYOC6326/BS-33) are pretty cheap ($12.50 at tower), a direct fit, and will widen the car by 2mm compared to the plastic ones...just thought i would mention that after the interest in those rear lancia wheels...ehehe

[SixVi6]

Hello? ... .. echo.. echo.. hehe..

Where is everybody? running their LM's? haha.. well mine has been running like an animal but I'm going to have to buy some new shocks soon. I was changing the oil on them and found that a couple of the shock bodies are wearing out. The oil was filled with black plastic form the shock body wearing. A guy at the LHS showed me some long Ofna Shocks that he said should work if he ordered up the medium length ones but I did not want to order them up just yet becuase I was hoping I could fine some specific info as far as the lengths and such but I've had no luck. I like because they are not horribly expensive and they are already silver. no de-anno work involved.

Tower has them listed...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBZJ1&P=7

..but has no specific info on them. Does anybody think they will work? should I just go and order them up or stick with the Kyosho ones? or any other low buck Kyosho alternatives on the table that I coud try?


Yes.. and I found them for a few $$ cheaper at Ace..
http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?osCsid=37d26c56f1f0b605 e3a84a0f96689267&keywords=32229 $31.69 vs 34.99.

[Pr0k]

Yeah been dead in here, I guess everyone is running or grounded. I ran mine the other day
http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/45/45882/folders/29609/199855gettingit.jpg