Kyosho Landmax Forum v1.0

[Pr0k]

Ok I ordered a new skyline body and the uber bling BS-86 uni-crank. I will keep the Mitsubitshi as a beater body, if anyone has pics of a skyline let me know i am looking for color schemes.

[Unobjectionable]

metallic is nice, pactra makes some sweet dark blue pearl metallic that would look real purty

http://***********/gp20/misc/skylinepc.jpg

[KIRK S. DECKER]

wHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO tint windows.....my experience with various commercial tints (Pactra window tint) have been less than stellar. I suppose a highly dilluted tint through my airbrush would work?.? any suggestions or experiences that came out good?

Bukkake as far as parts that Ill be willing to get rid of go I will have a stock chasis (beat up but still true), a gs 21 r( with a piston/sleeve with less than 1/2 gallon of fuel through it, and a "new" type cylinder head ) various gs 21 carb parts (both old and new styles) aluminum stock small/large bevel gears and other unessential lm stuff. like you though, many of the parts that I have duplicates of Im keeping just in case...also have that "great" stock muffler....

[SixVi6]

Unobjectionable .. the GS21 carb it too small to fit a real engine. I though of trying it on the hyper when I started to have problems.

I opened up the GS21 and found out that the piston seemed to be catching on the exhaust port of the sleve and chiping off pieces of sleve and piston. not good at all. It still ran great though and did not seem to effect running at all. Other than that 2.5 gals of fuel with no regard to temps and tunig for power it sill looked good. I did notice that Kyosho annod the head evertwhere, even the parts that are inside the combustion chamber. The anno seemed to break down with time and heat then leave a black stain on the piston and all throughout the exhust port and on into the exhuast.

The Megatech .21 will be next. I'm actually afraid to open this one up because I was brutal to it in everyhitng from snow and near 0 deg F temps to dirt and 100 deg tems and I even water logged the engine once and I was not always all that diligent with the after run especailly in the dead of the winter when it was just too dang cold to try to get afterrun into an engine. so I'm guessig rust on the crank and scratches on the really worn sleve. It will be like new though when its done though except for the p/s which I may just replace or have resized if the piston is still in good shape. I really liked this engine a lot and it lasted though hell w/o a single problem. Other than the initial porting and the quick seal job I never opened it up though the 6.5 gals of use.

[Unobjectionable]

yeah, they really are amazing little engines in general...a V8 that made even close to the power to weight ratio of a hot .21 would only last a few runs...ehehe...pretty incredible that they will last almost indefinitely if properly taken care of (and barring any defects)...

on a semi-related note, i think i might have to experiment with some of the klotz "benol" additive stuff...the wildcat fuels (http://www.wildcatfuel.com/prodmain.htm) page is pretty convincing, and the old time airplane guys swear by it...$7 for a pint at tower, i'll give it a try...

kirk, i was planning to just use real tint...if you must spray, i think they have discussed various methods in the body/paint forum..."haunted mist" (hehe) had a recipe that sounded interesting and included a little shot of purple for flavor...i think you would almost have to have an airbrush to achieve a realistic looking light to medium tint though, i think i will have better luck with the real thing..ehehe

i might be interested in some miscellany, the drive bevels are always nice to have, and i wouldn't mind playing with the new style head just to see how it compares...

btw, i saw the first "orange head" GS 21 on ebay the other day...this is the engine that comes with the mad force...dunno if there are any significant changes (doubt it), but it's kinda funny looking...like some bastard offspring of an RB and an OS...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1746976817

[Unobjectionable]

just had to share this...this is from an ebay auction that ended in february or march (i have forgotten, and so has ebay)...we worked a deal on some extra parts, i took forever to pay and she (yes, she) took forever to ship...i had about given up on getting this stuff, sent off CASH (yeah i know, registered mail), the last email i sent was in may..she emails out of the blue the other day and says it has shipped...and here it is...

chassis, front and rear bulkheads with diffs/gears (rear is missing the small one)
center diff and brake stuff
2 extra bulkheads (front and rear)
2 extra diffs
various dogbones, plates etc
2 sets inferno steering knuckles
2 sets hingepins (almost complete, all the 4mm are there)
stock type servo saver assembly

all these parts are brand spankin new, and had to come from australia...net cost, $70 shipped (thats $130 aus)...such a bargain!

ironic part is that neither of us can leave feedback since we took 4+ months to complete the deal...hahah

[SixVi6]

hmm... Unob I saw the post in the Nitro forum where you posted pics of the Stratos LM1. I noticed the rims look different from front to rear.. Is it just the slight difference in the face of the wheel or are they offset different?

hehe good score on the ebay deal.. although it took a long time to get the stuff but hey like you said no negative feedback can be placed anyways on either part so who cares.

[Unobjectionable]

it does look like the front has more offset doesn't it? i will have to ask oscar about that one....

don't get me wrong on the ebay thing, i would leave positive feedback if it would let me...i was in no real rush for the stuff anyway, and it did take probably six weeks from the end of the auction for her to have the money in her hand...she said the other day that there had been a recent death in the family, hence the slow shipping...good enough excuse for me...

on an unrelated note, i am curious to hear your opinion on the craftmanship of the xtm engine when you get it...any idea who actually makes it? this new bored out hyper .25 sounds pretty cool too, maybe my procrastination will pay off..ehehe

[Unobjectionable]

http://videos.radiocontrolzone.com/kyosho_mad_force_wch.zip

click and love...thing would be much cooler with a landmax body on it though..ahaha

[3434]

Just got back from the track. One of the guys has an unpainted Lumina body if your interested Buk,Pr0k

[Pr0k]

Hehe, no I was talking about the old bodies for the Esprit. I would love to find the Mercedes, or old Alpha.

Thanks for asking though

[SixVi6]

Well form the pics I've seen of the 24.7 it looks identical, case and carb wise, to the Megatech .21 that I have. We'll see when I get it how it looks and performs. There is a guy on maxxtraxx that has a 24.7 and Ofna .25 so far he likes the 24.7 way better. the hyper .25 is actually a force engine. so its kinda strange.
Here is his final post as well as a link to the initial post of the two engines with pics and all. He was very through.
http://pub13.ezboard.com/fmaxximumtraxxasfrm45.showMessage?topicID=6478.top ic


I can't tell if the rear has a different offset or not in the stratos wheels. It kinda does look like it but it might just be an ilusion because of the difference in wheel designs and the body but there is a different part # for the front and rear wheels of the startos so I am curious.

My Megatech .21 is thrashed. the bushing in the con rod was horribly loose and the psiton/sleve was really worn out and had a few good knicks in the piston from something. Also, just as I though there was a bit of light rust on the crank. I can't believe it still even started and ran when it was this bad. come on XTM.. get those 24.7's back in stock darn it.. Its on backorder.

[3434]

One of them has an old alpha body. All the plastic to go with it. Only problem is he was going to paint it years ago and now he cant get the tape off the windows. I haven't seen it myself but I'll try to get a look at it

[Pr0k]

3434: Wow, I would certainly be interested. If he would like to part with it. I will find a way to remove the tape if that is all that is wrong with it.

[Unobjectionable]

thanks for the link john, so much for that plan..ehehe...shades of the "Saturn .17"

i am fairly sure the offset is different...i will email oscar tonight and ask him, but check the 3rd pic...it sure looks like the "face" of the wheel is offset more to the outside in front, probably to fit that particular body

http://***********/gp20/Users/Oscar/oscar03.jpg

[SixVi6]

yes.. it does look like they have a different offsets for sure now that I look at them.

I though about getting the Hyper .25 but I think its too much for the .21 case and its based on the force engines so that kinda worries me and if it does wear out quickly its both expensive and hard to get a new piston and sleve from Ofna.
On the other hand the 24.7's piston and sleve is $50.. in fact all the XTM parts are cheap and easily available through Hobby people so I'm a lot more confortable buying that. The only problem I've heard is the heat sink is of poor quality casting and it breaks easily if takes a hit but I think the Megatech head I have will fit on it or else I'll pick up the XTM .21 pro head. either will work because they have a seperate button and head design.

I got the hyper carb working! I totally dissasembled it last last night and replaced most of the o rings and sealed it onto the Hyper and left it until this afternoon. On my lunch break I fired it up and it held a tune through two tanks just and ran just as good as the Megatech carb. hehe.. I still had the megatech right there ready to drop on if there were problems but I think I have the hyper carb fixed now... I hope :rolleyes:

[Unobjectionable]

yeah, i bitched out the guys in the nitro forum for gettin me all worked up...eheh...hyper 25 my ass

thats good news on your hyper, i thought you had replaced the o-rings first thing...ripped o-rings from the factory and the pullstart were the only real complaints i ever heard...seems to be a hit or miss thing too, as some people just bolt it in and don't have any problems...

that xtm sounds pretty good, if it holds up as well as the megatech it's money well spent...you should see if your megatech head fits it when you get one

edit: i should really read the posts i am replying to..haha

[SixVi6]

I replced some of them before only if they looked bad but this time I replaced just about all of the o rings regardless of how they looked. I used a weird mix of o rings to do it.. everything from MIP shock o rings to t-maxx carb o rings and used a good deal of green slime on all the rings. and sealed it to the engine usng high temp silicone. ohh and I was **** aobut cleaning it all up and checking everyhitng. it was a pain... but its all good now.

[3434]

man i've been trying to get on this site all night. finally let me on. Pr0k I'll let you know. I haven't seen the body yet.

[Pr0k]

Cool, let me know, has the forum been down?

[KIRK S. DECKER]

My original Landmax was the Stratos,and the offset of the wheels is different. The front wheels are offset out from the chassis by 3-5more mm than the rears...probably for the body to fit???? The faces of the wheels also are different (the rear wheels being more concave) but there is a definite difference in actual offset. By the way, if anyone is interested in purchasing the stratos body,
be forewarned, it will challange your modeling skills (ie putting on the 4 hrs worth of decals) and patience. I drove myself mad doing so and have only ran the body twice (i had a bad wreck the first time) and now only use the body for show...what a shame!!!

[Unobjectionable]

thanks for the info on the rims...comparing the pics of the stratos wheels with the "normal" ones i have here, i'm thinking the fronts are really the same, and the rears are the oddballs...i would guess using stratos rears all around would widen the track slightly...does that sound right?

something for you LM2 owners, markus shared some good info in the 7.5 Sports (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=77168) forum, having to do with the differences between the sport (LM2) and standard 7.5 cars...note the part about the sport diffs, that would be a cheap upgrade and should beef up the drivetrain a bit, for them hot motors

[Unobjectionable]

p.s. something for 3434...i finally got my R32 skyline body, but it's a supereight, not landmax...so i guess that makes it official...another project car

i also got some of the BBS type wheels for it, and got a hot tip on which tires will fit em (they are 10mm bigger than LM, 7mm smaller than buggy) so i can actually run this one...eheh

http://***********/gp20/misc/calsonicNIB.jpg

p.p.s. forgot to mention, those supereight wheels are the same size and design as the old inferno ST wheels, they all just have a different screw-on piece which is the hub and face of the rim...

http://***********/gp20/misc/st1.jpg

[Jimmy33]

Dude what is with the Tamiya cap next to the body?! :rolleyes:

[jeroen]

He do you own that inferno st truck unobjectionable.

Would be cool i like the way the body looks.

Have you got more pics of that inferno st chassis ;)

[Unobjectionable]

ehehe...both of those pics are from their respective ebay auctions, hence the tamiya cap in the one pic...i had taken a better one of the body after i got it, but i used pr0k's camera to take it and it (he) later erased the pics by mistake...i will get a better pic of the goodz this weekend...

i don't own the inferno ST, it's cool though isn't it?...same chassis as the super eights, just with the different rims and the truck body...i remember mugen came out with their 8th scale ST around the same time as kyosho had that one...surprising it never took off as a class, i'm sure it would be a fun race to watch

[Unobjectionable]

here we go..oscar sent me some great comparative pics of the stratos rears vs. the regular offset...they do increase the width a bit, for anybody that wants to widen their car slightly...could alway dye/paint em if you don't like the yellow..ehehe

http://***********/gp20/misc/stratos01.jpg
http://***********/gp20/misc/stratos02.jpg
http://***********/gp20/misc/stratos03.jpg

and here is a pic of the largest private collection of kyosho GT-9 supereight wheels in the united states, currently sitting in a plastic grocery bag on the floor next to me...there are two inferno ST wheels in there too and you should be able to see how the front part screws on...the black one is a landmax wheel, to show the size difference...and the cat included for general scale..eheh

http://***********/gp20/misc/WHEELSWHEELSWHEELS.jpg

[Cant log on]

Buk where did you find the Skyline body or is that a whole kit?


Been having trouble getting on for weeks and the forum won't answer countless emails

3434

[Unobjectionable]

i will sell you the ecatbox nick for one dolla!

saw the body kit on ebay and made the guy an offer...he had two of them sent over from europe or somewhere years ago, and had set his MP-5 up as the supereight that never was...definitely one of a kind..he has since sold the car and had no need for the body etc..

http://**************/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1745247561

pics of his completed car:

http://***********/gp20/misc/IMAG0001.gif
http://***********/gp20/misc/IMAG0003.jpg

i also bought one full set of the new rims and those 4 used ones from him...nice guy...even gave me a hot tip on which tires to use with them for free! (the narrow ofna buggy streets, OFN82011 i think)...i will get a better pic of the body tomorrow...it's beautiful and HUGE, suffice it to say it fits entirely over a landmax...

[Unobjectionable]

eheh they banned e-b-a-y links

EBAY EBAY EBAY

p.s. his MP-5 calsonic was an RCCA readers ride a few years back

[Cant log on]

Still can't believe they gave you that name. lol For some reason they had changed my name to rustler something before. Pr0k I talked to Tony about the body. He said there was some spider web cracking on one of the rear quarters. If you can wait I'll check it out this Wednesday.

3434

[Pr0k]

Sounds good to me, just let me know. I am still waiting for my new Nissan body(KYOC2470). I picked up some chrome paint today by dupli-color to see how some old wheels I paint turn out.

[Jimmy33]

Can you use the lancia back rims on the front as well as on the back or would they stick out of the body too much?

[Redfox]

Yay! I'm finally back from melb!! Geeez this post is moving along very quickly!!!

Jimmy33, i gotta feeling that you might have problems clearing the body with wider front wheels, but you could fix it with slightly larger wheel arches or push the body out a bit... my front right wheel kept catching the body cos something is a little bit bent, so i put some foam on the inside of the body to push it off the mud guards a bit and hence gives the wheels more clearance...

Damn while i was away i missed 2 ebay auctions on an 1/8th starter box which went for AU$81 and also an 1/8th tuned pipe (rossi maybe) for $36... bugger... :mad:

Oh there was also a failsafe for AU$41 which is a damn sight better than the US$54 i paid for the futaba one... grrrrrrr.... oh well i guess it's saved me countless times already... i might put in a throttle return spring soon...

:D

[SixVi6]

Oh great.. so now I'm going to have to buy some of those stratos wheels for my LM2 because I really want to try that out. I've also always loved those old Lancia rally cars.. hmmm... I just might just have to pick up the body and the wheels in a couple months I hope they still have them in stock then. I've spent to much on RC's and my Camaro this month. Thank god I got a raise starting at the begining of july. I have to chill out for a month the only thing I will probably get is a starter box and of course fuel for my RC's.

[jeroen]

Yeh me to spent too much money at this hobby, but what the heck it is fun.

The stratos body i looking cool and those rims are also cool and wider so maybe I'll buy also thatstuff for my landmax.

Is there anyone who has got the original conversion kit for the O.S four stroke engine
I want too know if it is worth the money, because it is so expensive, and maybe i'll buy only a couple of things that i really need to instal the O.S fourstroke.

[Unobjectionable]

heheh i sense a run on lancia rears coming on...i wouldn't mind having a full set myself...as far as fitment, i think it really depends on the body...i don't see any problems if using the street tires, as they are a good bit smaller in diameter (very noticeable in those pics)...but if you were using the rally tires on one of the more touring oriented bodies it could get messy...but a rally skyline/S40/alfa whatever would look pretty dumb anyway...haha

the only person i know who has purchased the whole GTW-40 kit is oscar...it is pretty expensive here ($225us), especially for what amounts to a bunch of adapters and a pipe...the parts are available separately, but are still pretty pricey...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=gtw040&FVPROFIL=++

if you wanted to piece it out, you would need the mounts, a suitable flywheel (oscar reports the superten .26-FS flywheel works better, the .26 and .40 use the same size crank, .25" i think), the manifold, the correct pilot shaft for your application (i don't think the one included with the kit would work with a 2 speed but you could get around that) and a suitable pipe...the linkage looks a little strange but it wouldn't be too hard to cobble something up...

they probably use most of the same parts in the four stroke kit for LM2 (part number still unknown), but i doubt it will be all that much cheaper (if at all)...i still don't see any advantage to using the .40 in a landmax, both models are undergeared enough as it is, and losing so much rpm and top speed after spending so much money does not appeal to me, if they made racing level .40 two strokes i would consider it eheh...in my opinion, the MAD FORCE would be a far better application for the .40 (HINT HINT) since it could use the extra torque more effectively (unspecified by OS, the 40cx is rated 1.6hp i believe) ...i see that thing will wheelie through all 3 gears with the GS 21, god only knows what would happen with a real .21 in it, but the .40 would keep the top speed down and still have that torque for crazy (but controllable) acceleration and a very smooth powerband...they will no doubt have a "MA-040FS" kit or something soon, now that i said that...ehe

anyhoo, for the landmax i think i would spend the money (we are talking an easy $300-400us for parts and engine, after all) on some fancy italian .21 and a set of the steel diff drive gears and call it a day...this is not to say the .40 is not cool, because it is...it sounds like some enraged husqvarna 400cc air cooled thumper dirtbike, versus the more yamaha r1 scream of a nice 21 (if that makes sense)...its just that, for the money, it's not much of a usable perfomance increase since for the same money you could have a racing class 21 with 2.5-3hp and more rpm than you could use...there is a definite "cool factor" though...i guess i will shut up now...

by the way, i guess the race is on to see who will have the first .40 3 speed car, we now have 3 contenders by my count...i can't wait to see the results

[Unobjectionable]

p.s. welcome back chris, i was wondering where you had got to...the thread is growing rather quickly isn't it? come a long way since november 01...the future holds great things

[Redfox]

Yeah it's good to be back... i think i was getting rczone withdrawal!!

My dad just got back from the states and today i have just installed the new spur gear (remember i stripped the original one while i was racing 2 weeks ago...) and the new motor savers air filter... i have had to tilt back the high end needle a bit to give myself room to tune it cos the airfilter sorta got in the way.... but it's all good now... i was careful not to over tighten that aluminium screw in the carb...

:D

[Unobjectionable]

heheh good man...haveta be careful with brass and aluminum, they are both generally soft enough to deform pretty easily

[Redfox]

Well seeing as my engine still runs pretty darn hot.... about 109 degrees celcius i think... i am going to water cool my head! =] What i am gonna do is get a smallish water pump powered on a 12V battery and then some copper tubing to wrap in and around the head sink head and a small water reservoir somewhere on the car... then hopefully with the water flowing around the head it will keep it running cooler and hence i won't get flameouts as much... what do you guys reckon? a bit far fetched? i've already found a suitable water pump i think... it does 100ml/min is that too slow?? should be ok i think...

[jeroen]

Cool idea, that would be the solution for the old gs21r for getting too hot

I have seen once a guy doing the same on his T-maxx Looked cool.
And he said that it worked great.
I'm considering too buy a O.S fourstroke for my landmax and madforce as well
I like the bottum power and cool sound of that engine, and the top speed is good enough for me, you only must put on the right gears.
I'm also working on my 3-speed landmax, but i must adjust some things too get it all fixet but it will fit.
Any suggestions for placing the tank soem where else otherwise the large clutch bell doesn't fir in there.
Or should i just get a smaller tank

[Pr0k]

RedFox:
Sounds like a recipe for disaster!! Added weight and the first curbcheck would be like turning a hose on your electronics. It would look cool though ehehe. Not sure I wouldn't just try a ram air scoop and an exhuast hole covered by screen to direct fresh air to flow over the fins.

[Pr0k]

A quick pic of some new goodies the postman brought today!

[Unobjectionable]

we don't care about your obselete MP-6 parts buddy!

the water cooling thing is a lot of added weight and complexity..pump, 12V battery, some kind of radiator etc..and as pr0k mentioned, it will probably be something of a weak spot in terms of crash-worthiness and general abuse

a landmax with a nice .21 marine engine, one of the "perry pumps" (vaccuum operated) and some kind of cute little aluminum/copper radiator would be neat though...

"brb, have to change the coolant in my keeosho"
"dude, you should just get a peltier!"

[Pr0k]

Look again there buddy boy, that is a genuine kyosho stock mp7.5 chasis up in dere!

[Unobjectionable]

i give you ten dolla for it...then i bend it in half and use it for a bookend

[Redfox]

Well i was considering adding some weight to the rear of the car anywayz... cos i have got the shocks at the front as soft as they go (to the point where they don't come back up without assistance.... stupid stock shocks) and the rear shocks pretty darn hard, and the car still sorta understeers... i would prolly use a 9V battery (my bro found a rechargable one the other nite) and you know those little steel or aluminium tanks that they use for fuel tanks on model planes?? Might chuck a small aluminium heatsink on the top of that and then the pump which weighs a tad more than those little crappy electric motors which they put in those tiny tandy cars... you know the ones...
The pump costs AU$14 and then the rest of the gear maybe AU$20 so that's only AU$34... or US$18 to you guys... that's not so much to blow for a fun little experiment... i too have a feeling it will back fire, but hey what the heck... it should be fun!
I am planning on mounting the reservoir on the back shelf of the rear diff housing and then the pump on the front part of the rear diff housing... that should give me the little extra weight in the rear which i need to make it handle better anywayz... i'll see how it goes... i really should get me an MIP temp gauge... is AU$40 a good price for the temp gauge??

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Just ordered a ton of parts from tower to continue my project car including all the parts needed for the three speed trany (most of these parts are on back order though!) One madforce option part that may save me a bunch of hastle is the optional clutch bell guide for PILOT SHAFT engines...sweet! Now im trying to decide what mill to put into the machine. I was originally looking at a Picco/Ofna O1 but i cant find a 086 highend inline pipe for it (ofna sells a picco inline buggy pipe but i think it is rated at 053 and not tuned for top end use and picco engines have a different sized exhust outlet so that R&B, OS, Rex etc. exhaust systems are not compatible with these engines). I was also looking at some sweet Rossi engines carried by Morris hobbies( www.rossiengines.com ). From what i read these engines are not only high performance but very reliable and last forever. Although they are pricey they are not really too bad of a deal (they include 3-4 different sized carb restrictors as well as a polished inline tuned pipe system). Well Ill have plenty of time to make a decision as I wont be ordering anything else for a couple of months (damn if this hobby isnt expensive). Any inputs or suggestions based on experince or what you have heard on various high performance onroad engines would be great.

[Unobjectionable]

cool, what is the part number for the MF clutch bell guide?

here's some nice pipes, though a bit on the expensive side:

http://www.ace-hobbies.com/Images/Pipes/18pipe.html

you could also try nationalrc.com, they have a lot of buggy stuff...i agree with you that the 086 should be good, seems to be the pipe of choice for almost everything

the O-1 would no doubt be a handful (in a good way), it looks very cool too ehehe...i like my piccos, i would like to try a nice 5 port nova someday too...i have heard good things about the rossi engines also (no relation to nova as far as i know), but parts might be harder to get...

p.s. if price were not a factor i would have to check out the rb C4 or C5, they have so much power (crazy top end) that the buggy racers are scared of em...eheheh...

[SixVi6]

Yeah the 1/8 buggy guys that I've talked to say out of every engine they've ever run the C4 and C5 are the most powerfull from idle to its insane top end and they are scary fast.. I've been told that they are only good for really really large tracks and that I'm insane for wanting one for my LM2. hehe.. insanity is just soo cool.. lol. but I've seen vids of full on, complete Unlimited Engineerig SuperMaxxes of solid aluminum in the sand with c4's doing wheelies at at any speed. now that power.

[Redfox]

Ok, i just had a brainwave!! I got back from the LHS and found out that the copper tubing i bought was a bit too wide to fit in between the fins on the heatsink head! So i was a bit confused as to what to do when i figured....... wait for it.......... why not put the cooling inside the head where the glow heater goes!!! Genius!!! Hehehehe so what i'm gonna do is wind a coil of copper tubing so that it fits snuggly in the heatsink head... i can try to make it fit so that i can stick the glow heater in there at the same time, or else make it take up the whole space, so that you start the engine first, then you stick the cooling coil in... ok i think this idea shall now be patented!! tee hee hee.... i got the pump today... i'm sure they come smaller, but this one is about the size of a C size battery that is a little bit longer than usual. And the cool thing is that the hole in the rear shock tower (you know that big hole for the rear exhaust option) well the inlet of the pump is pretty much exactly that size (yeah i know it 's a big inlet) and it's all cooooool!! hehehe ok i'll keep ya updated... i got a feelin the extra weight may be a bit of a performance sacrifice, but i think this is cool... and anywayz, with the removable coil, i can take the unit out whenever i want...

[Redfox]

Wow crap.... hehehehee this pump is the high pressure one... as opposed to the other one.. i paid $4 more cos it was lighter... heheh but instead of 100ml/min this does about 3 litres/min!!! geeez... it sprays like a fire hose!! hehehe i'm gonna have to put a spare inline speed controller in there to keep it pumping nice n slow... bugger... that would waster battery power wouldn't it... any suggestions?? is there a way you can restrict the drawing of power without diverting some into a heatsink like the mechanical speed controllers do?? hrmmmm maybe instead of this 7.2V battery pack i'll use a single D cell or something...

[Redfox]

This copper coil winding business is harder than i thought!! bugger..... it's so easy to get a kink in the tube!! I have thrown away the first piece and now i've made another one that isn't a coil exactly... it basically goes down one of the screw hole shafts, and then across to the other one, then back up and over to the next hole shaft that it goes down, then across and back up the last one... then it goes around the top rim of the heatsink head then you connect it to the fuel line which goes back to the reservoir... hard to picture? I'll try to get a digital camera to take a pic of it for you guyz... I think the best power for this pump is 2 C size batteries... or maybe 2 D size... depends how long i want them to last i guess...
Now i just gotta look around for a good sized water reservoir... i used to have a metal fuel tank but i dunno where it's gone!! grrr.... the LHS doesn't have one either... they just have the plastic fuel tanks. I might have to get an electronic components box from the electrical shop and put in a seal and make it my new radiator... the prob is that they are waaay too thick to do the job properly... any suggestions anyone?!

[jeroen]

The number for that madforce 3-speed clutch bell guide is: maw008

If you guys like too check out my madforce,use the link
Also check out the linken, some cool movies and other cool stuff mentioned in there

http://groups.msn.com/kyoshomadforce

Or check out my landmax Updates follow soon on this page when i receive some more option parts from my lhs

http://groups.msn.com/kyosholandmax/_homepage.msnw?pgmarket=nl-nl

[Cant log on]

Red leave yourself a little extra tube. Crimp the end then fill it with sand. Then crimp the other end. Then try to bend the tube. When your done cut the ends off and blow the sand out. Its an old trick but it works.

3434

[Redfox]

Yeah 3434, i knew about that trick but i thought the tube wasn't big enough inside... i'll give it a shot tho... i'll just try to find some really fine sand....

[Unobjectionable]

don't they have sand in australia? i could send you some genuine fine-grain sugar sand...(for a price)...

eheh

sounds like a cool experiment, we must have some pics of the finished product...maybe you could find a real small car heater core or motorcycle oil cooler or something...or get a really big cpu heatsink and wind your coils through that too

[french-fry]

You know they also make water cooling kits for computers. I think they come with a really small radiator. Might be kinda pricey though.

I bin outa the loop lately as I have been cruisin with my Tmaxx. It is a ton of fun! It doesn't have anywhere near the torque of the GS21, but for good all-around off roading it is the best!

One of these days I'll get a friend over and we'll shoot a video of the Tmaxx and the landmax dragging. Just in case anyone had any doubts.

Finally, regarding the two speed tranny in the LM, is it supposed to move back and forth. On mine, there is about half a centimeter of play. Like, i can move the whole assembly towards the front of the car and then to the back. It does not seem to affect the gear mesh, but if it isn't normal, how do I fix it?

Oh yah, and another vote for pictures of the finished water-cooling unit.

-Alex

[Unobjectionable]

eheh cool, looking forward to seeing that one...

i once saw this ".40 tmaxx cooling kit" on ebay, kicking myself for not saving the picture...tmaxx with a bigass gold heatsink and a fan on it, pretty funny stuff

p.s. the outrageously expensive kyosho 6x12 shims (from BS-53 shim set, unless you have some leftover from the kit) should do nicely, you want to have a little play, but not that much...

[Redfox]

I am a genius!!!!! Even if i do say so myself!! tee hee hee! :D

Well i have finished the unit!!! It's coooooool... (no pun intended!!!) Ok what i have is a water pump that is about the size of a C cell battery that is 1 cm longer than usual. It has an intake diameter of....... wait for it........ 13.2mm... and the output nozzle is 3.95mm. Apparently it's a high pressure centrifugal water pump. Here's a pic of it...

http://www.dse.com.au/isroot/dse/images/products/p8907.jpg

This is the place i bought it from... good old dickies...
Dick Smith Water Pump Details (http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/3d3e5f9b08dc359e273fc0a87f9c06f0/Product/View/P8907)

It apparently has a throughput of 3L/min... that is friggin coooool... i was runnin it of a 7.2V battery today (not sure of the amperage) but it is like a high powered windscreen washer... it sayz that it takes 12V@2A which i imagine would put out a house fire :D

The pump is put on the inside of the rear shock tower and the big nozzle goes through where the rear exhaust hole is in the shower tower. Then on the other side of this i have a clear PVC (i think it's PVC... the flexible clear tube that has a blue tinge to it) tube that is put over the nozzle and then i have cut a big hole in the aluminium reservoir tank that i bought and i have epoxyed the tube in. The tank isn't the most ideal cos it's fairly thick and heavier than it had to be, but it will absorb a lot of heat. This is a pic of the aluminium box that i made into the tank. There is a seal in the lid so that it's water tight.

http://www.dse.com.au/isroot/dse/images/products/h2231.gif

The box measures approx 60x55x30mm and is most like the open one in that pic above. I forgot to mention that the tank is mounted at an angle of that plastic on the top of the rear diff housing. Infact i haven't really secured the tank onto the diff housing yet... it's just held on with the tubing stuck onto the pump.

Wake up damn you!! Don't fall asleep in the middle of my explanation!! hehehehe

Ok so then in the top side of the tank i have a small copper tube (the same type i made the cooling coil out of) that sticks out (that was epoxyed in as well). This part serves as the water return to the reservoir.

So from the small output nozzle on the pump, fuel tubing carries the water into my copper cooling coil thingy and then that goes out and back into the reservoir via more fuel tubing stuck onto the copper water return nipple.

Does that all make sense?! Ok now i appreciate the saying "a picture is worth a thousand words"!!!!

I will try to get a digital camera to show you exactly what i mean!

In the end it actually doesn't weigh that much, but i'm yet to actually run the car (seeing as it's night time now) so i dunno how it's gonna affect the performance. I know the car might accelerate a tad slower with the weight, but i think it's pretty funky to have a water cooled nitro car!

And the cool thing (no pun intended again!!!) is that the copper cooling coil (it's not exactly a coil per se) is installed in a way that you can even use the glow heater with it still in there! But it's pretty easy to just slip out anywayz so that wasn't a major issue.

Ok ok!!!! Fotos! Hehehehe i'll get onto it! :D

[Cant log on]

Originally posted by french-fry


Finally, regarding the two speed tranny in the LM, is it supposed to move back and forth. On mine, there is about half a centimeter of play. Like, i can move the whole assembly towards the front of the car and then to the back. It does not seem to affect the gear mesh, but if it isn't normal, how do I fix it?

Oh yah, and another vote for pictures of the finished water-cooling unit.

-Alex

WOW thats 5mm of play. Sounds like something is missing.

[Unobjectionable]

yeah thats probably 5x what it should be...i have noticed when the center is sloppy loose, it will try to creep around under the torque, and you will see weird swirly marks on the clutchbell...thats a bad thing

chris, your project is lookin kinda cool...you will go down in history as the owner/inventor of the first water cooled landmax...i think i have an idea to refine your resevoir/radiator, gimme a minute to draw and scan a pic

[Unobjectionable]

eheh...here it is, fear my doodles

kinda like a giant water jacketed water cooling block for pcs like alex mentioned, more surface area for cooling (the coils inside the box and the heatsink outside) than just pumping hot water into a box, and a two stage cooling system to drop as much heat as quickly as possible...no charge for any ideas this may give you

p.s. keep in mind the cooling system will become pressurized after the water heats up, adding some automotive coolant will help (by raising the boiling point of plain water), but a small vent to the outside may be necessary...that will take some experimenting...also, make sure that pump can handle the heat

p.p.s. and note that pump could be almost anywhere in the chain, i just put it there arbitrarily...it would probably stay a little cooler being "upstream" of the engine

[Redfox]

Yeah i figured that this simple system wouldn't be effective as it possibly could be... your idea of the internal coil in the water box is awesome. It would sure as hell do a better job of removing the heat... reminds me of a nuclear powered generator! Hehehehe...

There are quite a few probs that i can already identify with my system... first of all the alu box is too thick... it adds too much weight and really needn't be more than 1.5mm thick... also i would get a water pump that is designed to have a slightly smaller throughput and less draw on the battery... 12V@2A is not necessary and the way it is now will prolly drain my batteries pretty quickly...

I would like to make a coil that fits inside the heatsink head of the engine because then there would be more surface area contacting the head than there is right now... but that would be a project for another rainy day...

Another suggestion that my bro made which he reckons (And i agree) will be a much more effective way of cooling is a fine mist on the heatsink. Apparently they use this technique on full scale cars and basically just spray a fine mist of water on the engine which evaporates off takin the heat away.

I would put the water reservoir on the other side of the car in a tube like the exhaust pipe and just have a spray nozzle overhead to spray a fine mist. Even a smallish easily refillable fuel tank would do the trick easily.

It might need the use of a positive displacement pump as opposed to the centrifugal one that i have right now to make sure that the mist is coming through. Because it does need a certain pressure to mist the water, or else it just won't flow.

I tell you what would really get my jollies!! A pump powered off the engine... either off the existing fan pulley or if you have a 2 speed, then maybe a lathed groove in the flywheel... (and seeing as i have two of them now, the new one being from the 2speed, i can experiment) then you could do away with heavy extra batteries and water pumps!

Then the only weight issue would be the water reservoir, but i don't think you would need that much water for a fine mist. Hey who knows, if you have a 3 channel radio you could rig the third channel up for activating the mist! =]
Now that would be funky!! Oh i never realised how creative you could get wiv r/c cars! hehehe

Although ya gotta realise that if i had a decent engine in the first place i wouldn't have to cool the engine using other meanz!!! But it's gotta be cool to be able to say to your racing buddies, "Wait up a sec mate, i just gotta refill my coolant system!" :D

[Unobjectionable]

ehehe i dunno about the mist thing, makes me nervous

and don't spend too much money on this trying to get it to work when you could just buy a REAL ENGINE....eehehe

[SixVi6]

Oh geez.. a water cooling system? hehe.. Red do you have a t-maxx? because I though only guys with t-maxxes try such things. lol.. oh well. I agree with Unob. don't put a tom of cash into this setup. it may work ok but heck there are other engines that don't need water cooling that will make a lot more power.


well I'm looking into getting a starter box. After I get the T-maxx all squared away I'll be getting a good engine for the LM2. This Hyper is just a pain. it runs great for a while then starts this stalling crap now its even doing it with the megatech carb on there. If the XTM 24.7 is as strong as people say I just may get one for the LM2 I'm not sure if it will mount on the LM2's motor mounts though because the pull start is rather large and there is no non pull start model so I may be screwed. but mabey I can use the non pull start from the XTM .21 pro and get the pull start pin out of the 24.7's crank. hmmm... or just use some washers and raise up the 24.7 until the pull start clears.

[Redfox]

hehehe i always wanted a T-MAXX!! don't get me thinkin about it ok?! Nah i know i can get a better engine which is what i will do in a lil while, but for the time being, this sorta stuff will keep me amused! =]

[Redfox]

Or i could just get a new GS-21R heatsink head... apparently they work real good...

[Pr0k]

[QUOTE].Or i could just get a new GS-21R heatsink head... apparently they work real good

They are an improvement but will still run hot, from what I have read on the boards...

[Unobjectionable]

yeah, just send me the $80aus the head would cost and i will send you a whole GS-21 to run the piss out of

seriously, don't put any more money into that engine than necessary

[Unobjectionable]

everybody but siv6 can look at this stuff (hehe)..notice they also sell pairs of "hardened" hingepins that would work on LM1

http://www.teamtrinity.com/accessories/kfactory.asp
http://www.kfactoryracing.com/

and some pics of some of the kanai 2 parts

http://www.three5models.co.uk/7_5_kan2_data.htm

p.s. racers edge now has their own line of sweet looking 7.5 goodies, i will shut up now

[Pr0k]

HAHA you are like a crack dealer just dangle the goodies!

[SixVi6]

Unob.. you stinkin.. ohh geez.. that is some pretty stuff. I like that K factory rear toe in bracket. interesting design. and that diff mount with the built in brake slots. hmmm...

lol.. just thought of this.. I'm now running an mp7.5 flysheel, clutch, and 16t kyosho clutchbell on my t-maxx and have the 7.5 diff conversion on the way. slowly it seems my t-maxx is turining into a 7.5. lol.. monday I'll have the XTM and after I break it in and get it running I'll let yall know how it runs.


oh.. lol.. I bought a 17t ofna 1/8 clutchbell from tower.. funny thing I got it today and was excited and riped it open then realized it was a 14t clutchbell.. ?? so I grab the package and it says 17t..?? what the? oh well.. the 14t will be good for the day when I get a 7.5 buggy because I know I'm already thinking about it.

Check this post in the BST forum (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=90605)
He selling not one... not 2.. nor 3.. but 4 LMs.. 2 LM2's and 2 LM1s! prices are not bad at all either considerig that they are all RTR wiht some nice radio gear.

[Unobjectionable]

hmmmm....so could you use the rcalloys 2 shoe aluminum deal on a LM/7.5/whatever? (yes i read the tmaxx forum sometimes, ehehe don't tell)

i saw a real life supermaxx chassis the other day, that is a nice piece of work, beautifully machined and oh so blingish...shame to scratch it up ehehe

p.s. just be glad i didn't post pics of the racers edge stuff, very "industrial" looking (sort of light gold color) and supposedly made out of the strongest aluminum known to man (or something)...so do not click here (http://www.paranormals.com/temp3/racersedge75/)

[Unobjectionable]

eheh colortrix...we have talked before in other folders, i wasn't sure if he was just lurking or never found this thread

[Pr0k]

He will never get that kind of money for used gear unless it is someone that has seen it.

[SixVi6]

Nope I tried it. the RC alloys clutch is tiny. even if you did try it I doubt the clutch will contact the clutchbell right at the end of the shoe and there still is just not the surface area on the t-maxx cltuch to hold a .21. that is why most of the .21 maxx guys are upgrading to 1/8 buggy setups.

ahh.. you! I could not help but click of course. the Racers edge stuff looks really thick. hmm.. now I just don't know what to buy.

Here is a pic (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/clutch.jpg) from left to right... a 22t t-maxx clutchbell , a stock t-maxx clutch, a stock 15t LM2 bell, and the ofna 17t packaged 14t clutchbell. and the maxx clutch is roughly 1/4" smaller dia than the LM2's stock clutch.

edit and Here is another pic (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/clutch2.jpg) of the same stuff from the top. :)

ohh and I miscounted.. the ofna clutchbell that was in the 17t labeled package was actually a 13t.

[Unobjectionable]

ahhh i thought it was for a 21 setup...[edit] and buggy clutch bell...damn that ofna one is a monster

eheh sorry for the temptation...don't go too crazy or you will wind up with a $2000 buggy you can't race...ehehe

wouldn't you rather have carbon fiber LM2 towers, steering plate and center diff cover?...hmmmmmm

[SixVi6]

Nope all the t-maxx .21 conversions use the stock .15 flywheel, clutch, and clutchbells. it was not until about a few weeks ago that the ability to run actual .21 setups with ease was a good option.

hehe.. well I do have a $2000 t-maxx that I beat the snot out off and get dirty so what the heck! I'll build a matching $2000 buggy! lol..

Yeah I was hoping the ofna bell would be a cheaper replacement for the kyosho clutchbell but nope, its too long to run on the t-maxx anyways. oh well.

[Unobjectionable]

and you can always buy a few more parts and be able to convert it from LM2 to 7.5 (and back) on demand! eheh sorry

[SixVi6]

actually I've been thinking of getting a 7.5 buggy to race with. hehe.. I took the maxx to the off road track a few weeks back and just can't believe the speed and handling that the buggies have off road but... on second thought after I get this round of stuff done on the Tmaxx I can parobably keep right up with the buggies depending of the driver.

more XTM 24.7 info.. its looking like a super powerfull engine... I just downloaded a huge vid of a full supermaxx truck with a 24.7 powering it.. wow! can we say insane. the truck in the vid is much heavier than mine in the 11 lb range wihle mineis in the 9.5 range. I'm actually kinda worried now about the stock diffs in my t-maxx after seeing the vid. eeek.. 24.7 in a t-maxx vid. (http://pub13.ezboard.com/fmaxximumtraxxaspostyourridehere.showMessage?topic ID=4546.topic)

edit.. they moved the thread on me.. the link works now..

[jeroen]

I also want too have a XTM 24.7 into my landmax and madforce.
I only want too know if it is relaible
The link isn't working it says the post you selected doesn't exsist
Can you arange that vid for me,or give us a other link too a vid with the XTM 24.7

Thanks already:eek:

[SixVi6]

hmmm.. they moved the thread to a different part of the maxxtraxx forum. the above link works now. ohh the vids are huge.. I mean HUGE! 14mins long and 140mb.

I'll have an XTM 24.7 by monday. It will go into my t-maxx but one other reason I'm looking into getting it is the possibility of droping it ino my LM2 as well. I have a Hyper .21 and an 18t clutchbell in my LM2 now but its just sooo pickey on the tuning. I'll let everybody know how the 24.7 runs on my t-maxx and give it a shot on my LM2 wiht the same gearing to do a comparison test.

redfox I found an excelent engine for you to run since you are into the water cooling.. RB C5 marine.. (http://www.rbproducts.com/rbww/engines3.5/1005m.htm) yeah... this water cooled mill would get you LM moving even if you used a 1 liter bottle of water for cooling. haha..

[Unobjectionable]

looks pretty peppy, especially in a such a heavy truck...should be just about right for an almost 4 pound lighter landmax (or even a tmaxx!)...ehehe

thanks for the link, thats a cool video...his little playground there is neat also...makes me wanna set the mower extra low and go cut the backyard down to the dirt

hard to believe the stock tmaxx trannys last as long as they do in the video, i can almost hear the little white plastic gears in there, screaming for freedom...almost hurts to watch when he kills that first one..eheh...and i like how he included the stock .15 maxx, just plain sad by comparison...traxxas should be sued for selling a truck with so much potential, and so little actual performance..

damn i am glad there are no tmaxx owners reading this, i would get flamed fer shure

and oh yeah, why does that guy have his ue diffs and you dont?

are you still running the hyper carb? might as well put that megatech one back on and enjoy the thing some

i can just see the C5 marine powered landmax "oh, i have to use 40% or it runs too cold" eheheh

[SixVi6]

well the purple and blue maxx in the vid is a complete supermaxx wihtthe tranny and all so that tranny won't break. but that hyper powered old ford body'd truck.. ouch. with the money that he must have in tranny parts to just keep replacing them he could have bought two SuperMaxx trannys. the maxes though when they first came out were really impressive but now yeah.. they are such poor performers. If I was going to go the maxx route right now I'd build from scratch using almost all aftermarket parts.

I'll have the 24.7 in an hour or so. I had them ship it FEdEx so I can go to the warehouse and pick it up after I get home. Nobody is ever home to sign for this stuff during the day.

hehe.. he has the diffs because he is earlier on the list. it was a first come first serve thing begining on the 4th of july... I was out so I did't get to order till the 5th. there are quite a few people ahead of me. :(

I'm running the Hyper carb still. I think the problem I'm having now are all because the engine is soooo pickey to tune. I swear the air temp drops 1 deg or the umidity changes just a little and it throws it all off and starts stalling or running rich. I usually turn the high end back out about 1/2 turn rich when I first fire it up and slowly lean it till its running strong and it runs great then. It just takes some getting used to.

Hehe.. and the hyper .21 plus a big 17or 18t clutchbell is the way to go. keep the hyper in the low RPM range and it's excelent. I bet the 24.7 would be the same with lots of low end power. I can't wait to go and pick the 24.7 up!

[SixVi6]

I got the 24.7.. lets just say that they share a lot. I droped the megatech carb and the heat sink onto the 24.7 for that sleepr style.. haha..

here are the pics..

the XTM sleeper style on my t-maxx (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_01.jpg)

The sleve form the XTM and the sleve form the megatech .21 (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_02.jpg)

side by side apart, XTM and Megatech .21 (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_03.jpg)

side by side apart, XTM and Megatech .21 part II (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_04.jpg)

Carbs part I (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_05.jpg)

Carbs part II (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_06.jpg)

The Case's side by side.. (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_07.jpg)

[Unobjectionable]

eheh i read your post in the tmaxx forum first, then jumped over here to harass you for holding out on us...and voila!

excellent pics, i am looking forward to hearing the official verdict...odd looking crank ports on the xtm (or is it just me?)...looks like a footprint from a 3 toed sloth or something...

and you know you want to break it in on the landmax...

*prays the steel spur doesn't show up*

eheheh

[jeroen]

I drove my landmax for the fist time ,since i had my madforce that is about five weeks ago.
I had cleaned and maintained the landmax in the past weekend,
So it was ready for a drive.
I went too the biggest parking lot in my neighborhood, and drove the landmax, since i only drove my madforce the couple of weeks, I was really astonished about the stock landmax speed and good handling.
It was again fun too drive my landmax the only thing that wasn't really fun is that the engine is pretty worn so i must get fast a new faster engine for it because it is such a cool car too drive.

I'm thinking of buying one engine that fits the landmax and madforce as well, the engine must perform good on both cars, any suggestion for an good engine.
I thought myself about the XTM 24.7 with a paris al650 pipe on it.
Or a O.S 21 RG-X(P) maybe with the cvec exhaust on it, is this a better exhaust then the al 650.
I like yhe concept of the cvec pipes, but i do not hear anybody talking about it , why is this , was it just a hype.

I'm still waiting a long time for some tuning parts for my landmax, I think I'm waiting for more than four months now.
This includes The carbon rear shockstay, the steel brake's twospeed clutchshoe and the flywheel and spacers.

I there a three piece clutch flywheel for the landmax I can not find it on towers Only the mp6 and higher one's are mentioned there.

[SixVi6]

the only problem with putting the 24.7 on the LM's is the pull start is large and there is no non-pull 24.7. I don't know about the LM1's but It won't work on my LM2 unless you can shim it up a few mm's or make it a non pull.

hehe... yeah the porting on the 24.7 is just strange looking but it looks good. Interesting though the Ofna .25 is a bored P4 and the XTM 24.7 is a bored Megatech long stroke .21 and because of the added displacement of the 24.7 I'm going to get a larger head for it. Either the XTM .21 pro head or a long stroke megatech .21 head should fit the bill. I decided right away to not use the stock 24.7 head though. thats not anno on that head.. its a nice heat insulating layer of paint!! Iv'e also heard several people break fins off the stock head when when it takes a hit. hehe.. well I though about droping the 24.7 onto the LM2 but heck now that it looks almost Identical to the megatech I want to have some fun with my friends... I can see it now. "No its the same ol megatech .21. All I did was do some super secret porting tricks on it. Why is it faster?" lol.. how it looked with the megatech .21 (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/sm_07.jpg)
How it looks with the 24.7 (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_01.jpg) lol..


OMG.. I just saw this post on Maxxtraxx. RB WS7 pull start conversion kit (http://pub13.ezboard.com/fmaxximumtraxxasfrm35.showMessage?topicID=5939.top ic&pollResults=on) hmm even talks of a pull start C5. I swear Robin (the mastermind of Unlimited Engineering) is going to put me in the poor house! all he needs to do is make LM2 hop ups and I'll be totally broke!

[SixVi6]

well I've heat cycled the 24.7 and idled it through a half tank while sitting in front of a box fan on a low setting. the spur gear had better be here tomorow. its ready to be easily driven around nice and rich. ohhh.. I can't wait.

[Unobjectionable]

ehehe anticipation is a killer...hope the mailman had a present for you today...

jeroen, you can use the MP-6 3 shoe flywheel on the landmax (and probably on the mad force as well), there are two different versions (IFW-50/51) that differ in thickness, for the different types of engines (OS and italian) and this will affect how the clutch bell lines up with the spur gear, so you should decide on what engine you will end up with before buying either...

btw, i LOVE cvec pipes, they make even a stock GS 21 run stronger...the only downside of cvecs is that they aren't legal for sanctioned racing, which isnt even an issue for a LM or MF...

also, i think most pullstart engines are a little awkward on the BS-25 mounts unless you either grind away a little of the mounting blocks, or just shim it up a little with washers...i guess the 7.5 parts are the same way

[SixVi6]

Yes.. I got the spur gear for the Maxx and a starter box for the LM2. Hyper .21's just have soo much compression I've broken the pull start three times since I've gotten it. This will save my hands and my pull starter. Time to go and sweat outside in front of a couple fans in the garage. its like 92 deg with high humidity but I don't care! lol..

[SixVi6]

:eek: !!! I broke in the 24.7 and it was impressive to say the least. it was an eazy and uneventfull breakin. The piston and sleve in the 24.7 is not nearly as tight as the hyper .21 and I rather like it. I'd give up a bit of longevity for an easier breakin any day especially with an engine that has parts easily and relatively cheaply available. Also I did not use a lick of sealer on the XTM even after I took it apart and have had no air leaks. anyways.. How is the power? well let me tall you about titanium skidplates and cement..

I got 5 tanks through it letting it cool between tanks. and slowly leanign it out. at the end of the last tank I leaned it out till it was running strong but still a bit rich and set the low end needle. Then, while on the grass I nailed the throttle and watched my t-maxx wheelie so hard it fliped straight onto its lid. In shock, I ran over and flipped it over and tried it again on the cement and whack! pulls a violent wheelie whacks the rear titanium skid against the cement sending white sparks off it, catching air as I slam the brake to bring the nose back down. basically I did an ollie with the t-maxx. I continued to run it till the tank ran out then it started to rain.

Basically powerfull is an understatement for the 24.7.. I beieve in an LM with a large clutchbell would make for one sick setup. I'm hopfully going to do a side by side test of the hyper vs 24.7 using identical greaing and clutch setups. I think the winner will be the 24.7 in the battle though just from the initial runing.

Ohh and thus far the 24.7 seems to love the OS A3 that I had laying around because the LHS is all out of MC59's.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

I have all the parts for the three speed (Mad Force) for my landmax project. I would really like to have a copy of the Mad force instruction book, especially the pages that deal with the 3 speed specifically. Can anyone out there help me get a scanned copy of the booklet? The blowup pictures of the tranny really helped (thanks guys!!!) but I would like to have all available info on this tranny so I dont mess anything up (especially since Ill have to do some "minor " modifications to get it to "fit").


SixVi6, that new mill you have sounds great...put that sucker in the MAX (landmax that is ) and give us a report.

[SixVi6]

hehe.. yup thats the plan for the weekend. I was thinkng of running them both on the MAxxxx but then realized that I'd have to spin the carb around on the hyper to run it on the maxx and realizing what a problem sealing the hyper is I decided to do the comparison on the LM2 instead so I would not have to mess with the settings of the hyper.

[jeroen]

I'll will scan all the importent stuff that is in the manual of the madforce 3-speed this weekend, for you

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Thanks Jerone that will be great.


btw, Tower is offering the Landmax alfa romeo for $313.99 if you are one of their "Super Saver members" (#EH2014). Also they have the Duratrax multi disc brake system for the inferno for $19.99 (#EH1050).

Tower now has the aluminum 3 piece clutch shoes (ifw136) for $18.95 and the hard 1.1 cltch springs (ifw053h).

[Unobjectionable]

they were also selling the alfa for less than $300 in the "daily sale" section, but their site is messed up at the moment (*edit - seems to be back up now)...i'm glad they finally got the kanai 2 clutch in, that should be a great setup, and pretty too! (eheh)...

if you don't mind my asking, what's the rough cost of buying all the 3 speed parts separately? i haven't bothered to add it all up, but thinking $150+ easily...i'm guessing you bought a complete GTW-20 and enough of the mad force specific parts for it to work ie: shaft, 3rd gear and clutch hubs etc...

i did the math on the important part though, the 3 speed should be good for a touch over 55mph@35K rpm in an LM2, and about 63mph@35K rpm in the LM1 (higher gearing in the gearboxes donchaknow), both with low profile (3.5") tires...and either car should accelerate to it's respective top speed BLINDINGLY quickly, we are talking motorcycle fast here...

i will hopefully have a mad force manual next week sometime, i will get scans and put them on the website for future reference for all of us..eheh...i think it must not be too hard to adjust, as i haven't really heard any MF owners complain about it...

btw jeroen, i am BOOCAKE4U over at ezbored/maxxtraxx, in case you were wondering who that jerk is...haha

john - sounds like that xtm is working out well, and i am very glad to hear it after "the hyper experience" eheh...thanks again for all the excellent info

[jeroen]

Bukkake Is there any forum on the internet that you do not visit?

You're every where.

Can you tell me what is happening with the landmax /landmax2 forum at nitroreview, I think it's slowly dies away.

It was my first real forum I read, I learn't alot from it.

But luckily This forum isn't goinig too die away verry soon I hope.

It think this is only real landmax forum left.

[Unobjectionable]

yeah, hpi and traxxass HAHAHAA

nitroreview has been kinda slow lately, dunno where emrys has been, maybe i will send him an email

i know there are some landmax owners out there who don't know about any of the forums (or just don't post eheh), the trick is making them aware...the LM2 seems to be catching on some, that might help...

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Price for all the MF three speed parts is about $92 (another $25 added to this if you dont already have the oneway hub from the 2speed). This doesnt include the price of the ball bearings needed to replace the bushings. I know this is pretty expensive but this is my hobby, and like I told my wife I could be into stuff more pricey such as real cars, motorcycles or worse yet sitting my ass at the bar all day and drinking....
I have been continuing my reasearch on the "perfect" engine for this project and I might break down and go with the feared RB c5.
From what Ive read this engine is insane and I want this project car to make people who see it say holly s#$* !!! I really dont care if I cant handle the car like a full blooded race machine, Ijust want a car that can smoke just about anything in a straight line and look good doing it. Any one have any info about this or any other engine that is just as insane? (but not to exotic...I would like to be able to get spare parts when needed). All that have written about the c5 are in ageement about its power but there are many conlicting views about its other aspects (some say easy to tune others say "finiky", some say reliable others say tempermental, some say wears wel, others says it goes through pistons and sleeves very quickly,etc,etc.) Does anyoe know of any sites where I can get some objective and reliable info about this engine?

[Unobjectionable]

as far i have seen, the majority of C4/5 users are *cough* tmaxx drivers...the general consensus among even serious buggy guys seems to be that is that it is way too much for anything but the biggest track, and delivers it's power in a very "turbo-like" way, meaning pretty soft on the low end (this would probably still be impressive on a LM with the smaller wheels) and absolutely ballistic once it comes on the pipe...(think 4 cyl. with a big turbo, my mom used to have an automatic fwd 4 cyl single turbo 180hp dodge shadow that was downright scary to drive...punch the gas, wait for it to downshift and spool up, then try to keep it from torque-steering off the road when the power all hit at once, god i hated that car)

i don't have any good links for you on the thing as far as the tuning/durability aspects, because i haven't seen that many people using them...the nitro forum here or the engine forum at maxxtraxx would probably be a good place to look/ask...the engine is based on a novarossi though, so i would expect their (very good) reputation can be carried over to the rb concept engines for the most part...

if it were my money, i think i would have to try the S7 (europa)...about $210 at ace, not a bad deal for a genuine racing class 7 port engine with a pedigree...should still be very punchy in a landmax, and have some incredible top end...and is still common enough to not be too hard to find parts for...

bottom line, the HOLY S%#T factor on anything 2hp or over will be almost guaranteed to bring a smile to your face, especially with that 3 speed...i think you will be surprised at just how fast your car is...

not a bad deal on those parts, could you list the stuff from that order and save me some trouble? i'm just curious to see the total parts list, plus i'm thinking this might turn out to be a popular mod, wouldn't hurt to have it here for posterity...eheh

[jeroen]

You also could try the RB concept forum for information about the C5
http://www.rbproducts.com/rbww/ubb/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi

[XysteR]

Ok here goes.. My mk1 landmax ran great that last time i used it.. I left it alone for a few months and eventually brought it over here to belgium with me. Now, i took it out the other day and it took me nearly 2 hours before i managed to get it to start.. It fired up and i had a good 15 mins blast around. Everything was fine but after i let it cool down i had an equally hard time to get it to start. It used to start great and first time everytime. Can someone give me full instruction on getting it started and tuning it to run well and start reliably? i've fiddled around for a while trying to start it again and the last settings were:

2 1/8 turns out on the high speed needle

The air/fuel screw near throttle link is set just so the groove dissapears (you'll know this groove if you have a MK1)

The idle screw is set to the same as its always been since i built the car with about 1 mil gap looking into the carb at idle

Thx in advance

Xy

[XysteR]

Ok here goes.. My mk1 landmax ran great that last time i used it.. I left it alone for a few months and eventually brought it over here to belgium with me. Now, i took it out the other day and it took me nearly 2 hours before i managed to get it to start.. It fired up and i had a good 15 mins blast around. Everything was fine but after i let it cool down i had an equally hard time to get it to start. It used to start great and first time everytime. Can someone give me full instruction on getting it started and tuning it to run well and start reliably? i've fiddled around for a while trying to start it again and the last settings were:

2 1/8 turns out on the high speed needle

The air/fuel screw near throttle link is set just so the groove dissapears (you'll know this groove if you have a MK1)

The idle screw is set to the same as its always been since i built the car with about 1 mil gap looking into the carb at idle

Thx in advance

Xy

[Unobjectionable]

hi xy, try richening up the top end a little bit...a fresh plug might help too...and i'm assuming the fuel has not been sitting as long as the car has...eheh

p.s. jeroen, good idea on the rb forum, i didn't think to check

[XysteR]

Bugger jiggery! Could someone kindly tell me how far out from fully closed my low to mid range air/fuel mix screw should be on my MK1 landmax (bluehead) GS21? I've fiddled about and forgot the original setting.. I had it written down but thats on a piece of paper or summin at home in england so with me now living in belgium im a bit stuck to get it. No use askin my mother cos she aint got a clue where her purse is let alone any of my stuff lol

Oh throw in your high end needle setting too cos they kinda go hand in hand

Thx in advance

Xy

P.S i installed a new no 8 os plug, fuel is new also but still very hard to start. takes ages. I got the blisters to proove it! Yesterday it started once in nearly 2 hours of pulling. Had a good 15 mins play tho & it ran well and fast

[jeroen]

I've got the main needle sit at 2 too 2,5 turns from closed position
And the air fuel needle tighten until the groove disappears, but sometimes I turn it in or out a little bit.

But I also shout check the engine inside, it can do no harm too take the engine apart onces in a while.

The blue head gs21r is just a strange engine, sometimes it runs good and others times I can shoot the damn engine for not running at all.

I've also got the orange head gs21r And this engine is much easier too tune and runs always fine by me, and running cooler than the bluehead once's they simply run too hot when you lean those once's, but you must lean it because they other wise doesn't perform well enough, and that is where they are made for.

[XysteR]

Well today i began to strip the whole car down to give it a good clean & lube. After i'd cleaned the motor i started to dismantle to check for obvious problems. I checked for pinch between my sleve and piston and all was well with a nice bit of resistance coming up to tdc. I kinda knew this would be ok because the car aint been used much at all. Then i checked other obvious things and upon me coming to the conclusion that all was well on the engine side i just knew it must be the carb. It made it even more obvious because of the starting difficulties. Firstly i found a split on the underside of the rubber boot that keeps the dirt out of the throttle mechanism of the carb but i kinda bypassed this as being my main problem. Next i checked my fuel tank and all was well there. Then i turned my attention to the high speed needle. I removed the high speed needle and attached some clean fuel tubing to the fuel inlet and blew quite hard but i felt a lot of resistance and no air flow. So i huffed. And i puffed. And i blew until my lungs nearly popped, and all of a sudden i heard a satisfying little pop then a lovely hiss and my high pressure air blew freely through my carb! Yip fekin eeee i think i found my problem! When i looked inside of where my high speed needle belongs i could see what had blocked my carb. It apeared to be a small 1.5mm round piece of yellow sponge! Well i think this just has to be the problem solved. I can try anything at the min because my whole car is in bits getting cleaned and lubed. Ah well, phew. Problem solved. It seems the blockage did not come through the fuel line. And i kinda knew the fuel line was fine because it was one of the first things i checked. It seems to me The small piece of sponge came off my filter, managed to get inside the carb via the small split in the rubber carb boot and then somehow managed to travel its way over to the high speed needle end. Oh well. we all learn everyday but i aint half learned from this one. Its had me bamboozled for a good while now.

Oh jeroen thx for the reply post. I'm in antwerp. Do you know where i can get landmax parts over here? I moved here from newcastle UK about 6 months ago and i used to get my parts in england. I need a new rubber boot for my carb and a new air filter.

Thx in advance

Xy

[Unobjectionable]

well done, that was probably it...your carb settings sound fine but heres the page from the manual for reference if you need it later (the rest of the manual is there also)

http://***********/gp20/Reference/eng02.gif

not sure what to tell you about the parts, i thought ripmax was the big (only?) distributor in europe...jeroen probably has a shop he can recommend though

[XysteR]

Thx for the suggestions and link Unobjectionable. By the way my landmax is standard. Even standard shocks but i still love the way the landmax handles. I've had it now for about 2-3 years i think and i've only ever had a few problems. I'll state these problems now and maybe i could get some tips about avoiding them.

My first ever problem was the screws that mount the motor to the chassis. Basically they came loose 2 days after i made the car and resulted in my clutchbell gear ripping teeth off my main spur gear like a dentist on speed. This resulted in me buying a new spur gear which i fitted without trouble. I used 4 locking washers with the 4 screws to be sure they didn't come loose again. Anyone got alternative tips about this problem because after me dismantling my car i feel the locking washers are only good for one lock then they have to be renewed.

My second problem was the one way bearing for the pullstart. I had to pay £21 quid for a new one way bearing a few months back when i used the car more often. Now im startin to use it again i can feel that occasionally its starting to slip again :-( I've pumped some light oil into the starter and added some spray grease and oil to the bearings and crank etc t otry to help but anyother tips about this problem would be useful to me.

I'm also thinking about making something to start the car from the flywheel. Does anyone have suggestions of what to use to make a device for starting from the flywheel to save pulling the cord? i dont really wanna spend on a commercial one because from what i gather they seem simple enough devices. Anyway suggestions on how to make a landmax flywheel starter would be handy.

Thx in advance

Xy

[Unobjectionable]

no prob...try using some loctite on the motor mounts...i use the blue stuff and they hold fine...i get the mesh set and tighten everything down, then loosen one screw, hit it with a drop of loctite and tighten it back down, repeat etc...

i haven't had any problems with the one-way bearing...they can be cleaned when they start slipping...i spray em out with WD-40 and just wipe the shaft off and pop it back on...haven't had one fail yet

you could probably rig up a little bump starter...cordless drill with a little "starter attachment" ie: a bolt with four nuts and a starter wheel on it

[XysteR]

Great! I'll look for some blue loctite when i go into town tomorrow. I'm wondering what material to use for the disc that will grip the flywheel enough to turn it. Should it be hard rubber or something like that? I could cut a disc from plywood and attach a bolt to the middle to connect it to my cordless drill and attach something around the outside of the disc that turns the flywheel over. What material do the commercial starters use that grips the flywheel firmly?

Only been to this forum a day or two. Its great for advice and generally a good read for tips etc.. Thx again for the promt replies and great tips

Xy

[Pr0k]

The commercial ones I have seen use use rubber and you
bump the flywheel with it.

[Unobjectionable]

sure thing...btw, what body is on your car?

the starter boxes and bump starters all have fairly hard rubber or "rubber-like" wheels, perhaps you could find a model airplane wheel that would work...i had picked one up once with a similar idea in mind, but never got around to trying it...but if you can get a replacement wheel for a starter box at a local shop, that would probably be ideal

[XysteR]

I'm using the subaru shell. It looked so great when i first built the car.. I spent a whole day on the shell alone. Done in original metalic blue and every decal perfectly placed with the richard burns option. Now its lookin a little tatty few decals starting to come away. few splits in the front etc. i'm gonna tidy it up a bit after i've finished cleaning & reassembly tomorrow. I'll take a look in the rc shop in antwerp for a replacement wheel for a starter box & see what happens, another good idea that :-) Thx again

lol i just ran my finger through 5mm thick of oil & dust etc down the inside of my chassis. I done the same in different places all over the car & its still brand new underneath. Just gotta get it off tomorrow eeeek! It aint been cleaned in about 7 months. I had it near kielder forest way back then and it was dirty when i took it there. After leaving kielder it was clogged even thicker with reddish ashy goo from the forest roads. The sheeps shite & gd knows whatelse has preserved it lol

I just had a quick go at cleaning the engine a bit. The black sheeps poo & god knows what seems a bit cooked on at the manifold. Whats the best stuff to clean the engine up like new? And for that matter what should i use to clean the rest of the car?

Xy

[KIRK S. DECKER]

For general cleaning I take off the radio tray and the carb (then cover the carb outlet with a rubber cap that I found to fit) and spray the car down with either denatured alcohol or a product they have here in the USA called Simple Green (this stuff is great...it cuts grease and grime, is non-toxic, and does not harm plasics). Ill let this sit for a few minutes (scrub with toothbrush where needed) then spray off with water. I then use air compressor to dry off the car then spray wd40 to the chassis, suspension, etc. (wiping off excess with a rag.) Note that I seal my gear cases to the chasis with clear silicone and this generally keeps the water out. If the gear boxes are not sealed moisture may get in and rust any steel parts.
The engine body and manifold can also be cleaned with denatured alcohol and a scrub brush. For real tough grime on the engine case and manifold you can disassemble these parts from the rest of the engine and spray these down with oven cleaner (be careful, this stuff is nasty and will destroy skin, eyes, and any anodized parts).
The above is for really thorough cleaning...most of the time a quick spray with the air compressor and some toothbrush scubbing gets the job done.
Bukkake, I will get that three speed "price list" posted soon. I was going to do it right now but I can hardly keep my eyes open.

[Redfox]

Hey y'all, haven't posted for a while. Infact to tell you the truth, i haven't touched the LM for about 2 weeks now. :eek:
I have been fantasizing about R/C choppers and how much money i could throw down the toilet wiv one of them! BUt how fun would it be!!! Mmmmmmmmmm... drooooool!! But i prolly won't get one for a while (or at least not until i get me a job!)

Anywayz back to the real world now... my escort body has a sizable crack in the front. I think it's from when i was jumping the car off a fairly big jump at castle hill wiv theo. I've tried gaffa and also fibre tape, but none of them friggin well stick!! What do you suggest i do to repair this crack? I was thinking of epoxying another strip of lexan on the back, but i figured that would prolly just rip the paint off... so i'm in a bit of a jam.

Also, Xyster, about that bump starter you are thinking of making. You might be best just investing some money getting a second hand one. Cos seriously, you kinda need to spend a bit to make a decent bump starter. One thing i reckon is a must, Some sort of box or plate you can hold the car down onto to start it. I swear it's almost impossible to hold your car and then bump start it with a hand held device. Cos it takes a lot of grip and power to turn these fuel consuming paperweights over (well a paperweight in my case :D hehehe)!!! I tried it once wiv a mate. We glued some fuel line, that had been cut down the length of it, onto an old spur gear and mounted it in a drill. Even tho it gripped, it didn't grip enough, and it was a ***** trying to hold it onto the flywheel. So i would save yourself the trouble and just buy a proper starter box. I've been keepin my eyes out for one cos my arm is tired!!:mad:

Anywayz i'll get it going in the next coupla days... uni has been cruel to me and i stuffed up a lotta subjects last session.

Cheers, Chris :D

[KIRK S. DECKER]

REDFOX

Here in the USA there is a product available called Shoe Goo that you can get at any hardware store for about $3.00. It is kind of like a "super" rubber cement. The way I repair my lexan bodies is to first temporarily tape the outside of the body with packing tape to close the crack as tight as posible. Then I liberaly apply the Goo to the inside of the body (over the crack) then let dry over night. When dry remove the tape. The shoe goo is very flexible and strong...I've never had a repaired crack break again after repairing it in this mannner. In fact I often use the goo to "prevent " cracks by applying it to all weak areas of my off-road bodies (wheel wells, the bottom edges, the stinger outlet ,.etc.) This really seems to strengthen up the bodies. You should be able to find this product (or one similar to it )at the hardware store or on the net... I think I've seen show goo sold under Duratrax name and packaging at the lhs. Hope this helps.

[SixVi6]

well.. I ran the LM2 on sunday first with the Hyper .21. Then with the identical gearing using an 18t clutchbell and heavy duty kyosho clutch setup with a high stall spring and gutted CVEC pipe I ran the 24.7. In my opinion in sheer low end stump pulling torque the 24.7 has it hands down but where the 24.7 fails is topend RPM. The hyper will get off the line with a bit of wheelspin and continue to pull until it gets into some good revs but the 24.7 really tries to rip all four tires off the car and pulls hard through the mid then falls off. The 24.7 just does not rev as high as the hyper. I've actually been running the Hyper today with a 17t clutchbell which gives it a very 24.7 like wheels spinning launch and still good top speed.

Another place where the XTM shines is in the tunning and running. The XTM starts eazy, tunes great and was an eazy breakin. the 24.7 runs incredibly strong and reliably without any stalling and temps seem fine (I need to borow a temp gun to check them for sure) but the hyper.. sheesh.. tuning is a pain, the breakin was a nightmare and it still likes to stall once in a while and runs best when its leaner. All of the breakin pains are from the super super tight psiton and sleve or poor o rings on the carb. the hyper may last a gallon or two longer because of the tight p/s but it also takes a gallon of headaches, cursing, frustration to get the piston and sleve loose enough and the engine sealed well enough to be at all reliable and run strong.

I can't say for sure whigh is better. they are both close to eachother in price and power wise the hyper has a wider rpm range but the 24.7 has the insane torque. the XTM needs a different heatsink head. the stock one will break eazy and the added cooling is always a plus but the hyper requires sealing and carefull attention to settings and a bottle of asprin during breakin. Its a tie in my book although I lean a bit more toward the 24.7 because I'm still having flashbacks of the hyper .21's breakin.

John.

[Unobjectionable]

eheheh...excellent review john, how would you say the xtm compares to the older megatech in terms of max rpm? going back over your comparison pics, the xtm rod doesn't look any longer, so i guess the extra displacement is purely from the larger bore...general theory would suggest a very slight loss of rpm on top and a good increase in bottom and midrange power, with all else being equal...i wonder how much rpm an aggressively ported xtm would pick up on top, and how the porting would affect that torque off idle and at low-mid rpm...for a monster truck it sounds about ideal though, so don't think i am trying to encourage you to grind on it...ehehe

when i get some more time i would like to experiment with porting one of these GS 21s, just to get some practice...i know the basics, leave the exhaust port alone and just sort of finish what the factory started as regards the schneurle porting, in addition to the crank and rod stuff that i probably won't mess with too much...but i get the impression that the porting is the big factor in determining top rpm, second only to the weight and balance of the internals...would you say that is correct?

xyster - i second everything kirk said...if you can get simple green over there you should definitely give it a try...much safer for plastics than the various solvents (smells better too) and it works well...it does leave a slight haze (only visible on the shiny metal bits) that you can wipe off or leave on for storage to protect the metal...the baked on stuff can usually be scrubbed off if you soak it for a while first, but this may not apply to petrified sheepshit..ehehe...the oven cleaner works good too, but does require disassembly and WILL eat anodizing as kirk mentions...

i would also recommend a big nylon bristle brush of some sort (paintbrush), great for getting the loose crap out from under all the places it gets lodged, and easier than holding the car upside down and shaking the hell out of it...

don't forget to clean and oil your bearings every so often too (good rainy day project) and if you have not yet replaced the 8 metal bushings at the outside corners, that's something else to think about...i have a whole pile of those nasty bushings here, any takers? they might make good fishing weights or something

i agree also on the body repairs, shoe goo and duct tape all the way...i use the tape to reinforce the front and sides of the body though, little lighter than the goop and still seems to prevent cracking etc. in the wheelwells as well as saving the paint in there from being rubbed off by the tires...this is a pretty old trick so i don't think we can claim it...ehehe

[Unobjectionable]

no rush on that parts list kirk, but if you take too long i will wind up doing it myself..ehehe...i do notice most if not all of the necessary parts are now in stock at tower...now if i just had some money.......

[SixVi6]

hehe.. don't tempt me bcause I've been thinking of taking the dremel to the ports on the 24.7. .. lol..

The Megatech .21 had lots of top end but that was all due to the pretty extreme porting I did. The porting I did with the Megatech was nuts and I was actually afraid I screwed it all up. The crank and sleve had been worked over quite a bit as well as the radiusd carb inlet and smoothed outlet. I actually never touched the con rod in that one though because I did not feel like chasing down the stupid G clip that holds the pin in place on the piston because they always seem to just shoot off in some random direction. The huge bore of the 24.7 did limit the top rpm a good deal.

yes porting will change the powerband of an engine giving it more top rpm. Porting is interesting to mess with. I ported lots of t-maxx TRX .15's. everyhitng from sleve porting, case porting, crank porting, and even really screwing up carbs... lol. Normally I just take a peek at what the high end engines look like and what the pro porters are doing and try to follow their lead. I usually just re-create the stock RB ws7 crank porting but of course it never looks as good and poke around on the RB site for sleve porting as well. Just think about making the air flow smoothly into the combustion chamber and straight into the glow plug then exit as smoothly as possible. If you enlarge ports a lot be grinding away on the sleve it will cause idle problems because there won't be enough velocity in the intake charge to keep it running. There is actually some porting that can be done on the exhaust port of most sleves though. you can match the exhaust port to the case by grinding and polishing a nice angle at the bottom of the port to it lines right up with the case just don't ever touch the inside of the sleve.

When I ported my GS21 I didn't touch the sleve at all. the stock porting is unlike and sleve I've seen. I didn't want to touch them because it was the only engine I had for the LM at the time. The only thing I did with mine was do a Hyper .21 style port on the crank.(check the pics in RC nitros Dyno test of the hyper .21. to get an idea) I also radiused the inlet of the carb to let air smoothly flow into it was easily as possible ohh and I even opened up the exhaust manifold to match the exhaust port on the case but that was it.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

I just got back from running my 1/8 storm buggy (my lm is in pieces on the work table, slowly being tranformed into a bad ass tourer). Perfect day for running...70 deg F, low humidity. Ran 5 tanks through the beast at the local ball field with out one burp, stall, or flameout...this hobby is so gratifying when everything goes right! I hope all you guys got a chance to do some RCing today.

Bukkake, the 3 speed parts list:
gear set (2 speed) 7.5 gtw020-02 $9.49
3 speed shaft ma005 $6.49
3 speed cam set ma006 $6.99
2 speed cam set ma007 $18.99
3rd spur gear ma008 $8.99
3 speed clutch bell ma011 $25.99
kyosho bell guide pilot shft for mad force (order # lxu231) $5.79
oneway from the original lm1 2 speed about $25.00
varoius bearings to replace the tranny bearings and the needle bearing in the clutch bell...various pricing by brand I like Boca "green sealed" bearings (I do have a list of all the bearing sizes for this tranny but I missed placed it somewhere?!?!...the tower description for the mad force lists what bearings you need for the tranny...the clutch bell needs the 2 standard 5x8 +1 flanged 5x8 per kyoshos recomedation of replacing their needle bearings on their clutch bells.

btw any luck with the scans of the three speed tranny instructions?


As far as self porting goes i have done very little on my engines... about the most I have done is "cleaned up" the "careless" porting from the factory (sanding any burrs, rough edges, etc.) and polishing the ports and piston (if any glaze exists) using dremel attachments and buffers. By doing this the engine really does seem to run better (idles more smoothly and less flameouts) with a very slight increase in performance. This may be all in my head, and I may be just wasting my time, but it really does seem to make a difference.

[XysteR]

Thx for the cleaning & body repair tips etc Kirk & Unobjectionable. You've both been a great help. I've not been able to find this simple green stuff but i know the stuff you mean. I seen it advertised on Satelite TV a while back. I'll keep looking for it over here in belgium, I'll be going back over to newcastle england to visit my family on the 12th aug so i'll have a look over there too.

I've finished cleaning everything with dishwashing liquid. I replaced the air filter and cleaned out & greased my wheel bearings, oiled and greased everything i could see that was metal. The new rubber boot for the carb is coming via post in a week or two so im just using the old one which i've temporarily repaired with a rubber ballon and super glue lol works ok for now. All that remains for me to do is follow up on a few tips i found on here like tie my shell clips with fishing line and tie them white plastic things that sit below too. I lost one the other day on a massive car parking area as i was running with the shell off and i kinda gave up hope of finding it before i started to look. I couldn't believe it when i walked about 10 paces and found it straight away lol i aint gonna let that happen again so im gonna tie em to the posts with fishing line also. Oh i still have to repair my shell too, i'll get started on that maybe tomorrow. I may aswell cos its raining cats & dogs anyway.

And heres a few uses for unused wheel bushings.

1. If we stockpile em all up we could make a fururistic checkerz board and use the bushings as the checkerz.

2. We could play dirty car dealer vigilantes wif em! Again if we stockpile our bushings we could tie them to the individual strands on this conman car dealers auto car wash and pi*s ourselves laughing as he mentally breaks under the strain of insurance claims pmsl.

3. Or we could paint em white and put em in one of them giant polo mint packets, befriend the above mentioned car dealer, ask him if he wants a mint then we can watch as his teeth crumble to pieces lmao.

4. Then again we could become a big name in designer sunglasses and use the bushings as the rims and make the legs etc out of piano wire. Lil bit of solder here & there. @ £4800 we'll be laughing all the way to the bank!

5. Or we could turn em into bellybutton rings. The women would be flocking to our doors for em.

6. You's have a go, i can't think. Time for bed mefinks.....

Thx again all.

Xy.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

bukkake

I found some cool 1/8 scale bodies (porche, lambor.,viper) by Bergonzoni ( www.bergonzoni.it ). these bodies are for 1/8 scale rally game (looks like buggies converted into on road cars for racing). I guess this is big in Europe. Any of you guys from the Old World have any info about this interesting class of racing?

[Unobjectionable]

thanks for the parts list kirk, i will clean it up a little, add a couple things and put it on the site for "future reference" ehehe...i don't have the manual yet, but it should be here this week and i will be sure to scan the relevant pages pronto...

good find on those bodies too, i know GS racing has a new rally game car as well (shown in the "new products forum" on this site) that looks to be about the right width...as far as i know, there is no set standard for rally game cars, i have seen wide ones and narrow ones...but the racing seems to be what one would expect, mixed dirt and asphalt and not as much emphasis on jumps as buggy racing here in the US...

i also saw that ofna will soon be selling a 911 version of the GTP, there is a pic on their site now but it seems to be the real car, guess we will have to wait and see what the actual body looks like...they are all too wide for the landmax anyway, but with the right a-arms....


i like the bushing ideas xyster, #2 is particularly evil...

[french-fry]

Well, I know its been awhile since my last post, but...well...no I guess I don't have any excuses.

I've actually been quite frustrated since I rebuilt my LM2 and have, as a result, been testing the limits of the tmaxx.

Anyway, it turns out that the play in my transmission is caused by the diff support thingys. The ones that came with the two speed are just a bit different from the originals. For some reason the holes that the bearings sit in are just a bit deeper and as a result, one of the bearings was always a little bit out of the hole. So I returned to the stock supports, but had to modify one of them since the new brake cam works differently than the stock ones.

So problem fixed. I put a new plug in the engine and went out for a spin. It felt so good to drive a car that had handling. There really can't be any comparison with the tmaxx. Everything was going great. Then, the engine started making funny noises. I brought it to a stop at my feet and it stalled. First I noticed that the engine was no longer secure. I have consistantly had problems with keeping the engine in one place. Loctite or not, it just won't stay put. Then I looked closer and I was SHOCKED to see that the whole pull-start assembly had come loose. The two screws that normally hold it to the GS21 were gone!. Needless to say, I put the car away for the day. I had fixed it once already that day, and I wanted to play. So I brought out the tmaxx and drove through some...err...hay. Okay. So now I need to hunt down those screws, and find a way of getting the engine to stay still. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Finally, I was in Los Angeles last week and I saw a Nissan 350z, yep, even though they're not supposed to come out until the 20th, I got to sit in it and start it and rev the engine. Evidently, the owner's girlfriend is in charge of marketing for the car and that particular car is the one that is in all of the advertisements. Anyway, its not an RC car, but at 287 hp and 0-60 in 5.7 seconds with a 6 speed it still kicks butt! Plus its "only" 27 grand.


-Alex

[Unobjectionable]

hey alex, those pullstart screws are 3mm, and have 8mm of thread...

i'm not sure why you are having such a problem with vibration, but you could always try lockwashers on the engine mount screws etc. if the loctite is not doin it for ya...

[Unobjectionable]

maybe this would help! ehehe...kanai 2 clutch setup

[Redfox]

Yeah, i'm sure that would help me! Especially if you bought it for me!! :D

Hehehe again i have strayed from the RCZone Forums for quite a while because i have been playin wiv my guitar (which is now back in the shop cos the fretboard paint is wearing), and dreaming about r/c helicopters. I think i might buy an r/c helicopter later in life when money is no option! But for the time being, back to the good old landmax!

I haven't fixed my body yet, but i do intend to go out and buy some "Shoo-Goo" to fix it up wiv.

Oh btw, dad faxed me a letter/receipt from hobby services about the return of my 2-speed to the states. They said that they have it and are going to repair it for me. Yay!! Can't wait to get it back and in the LM. One thing i'm concerned about tho... i don't want to run the LM on dirt (especially dirt wiv rocks and gravel in it) because i'm scared i'll get a rock in the gears and fcuk it up again...

Last time i ran the LM in gravel i think i got a rock jammed somewhere cos it suddenly stopped dead. Could've been jammed somewhere between my flywheel and the metal baseplate that i installed, and lotsa dirt and castor built up under the flywheel and main diff gear on the metal base plate that i made, so i removed the base plate.

Btw i've found myself a nice stanley screwdriver which has a blade that fits perfectly in the plastic slot in the top of the high speed needle. So i think i'm going to cut a small hole in the roof of the body to allow for me to adjust the needle setting wivout having to remove the body. The previous screwdriver i tried had fairly shapr corners and hence sorta dented the slot a bit. The reason i can't really adjust the needle valve by hand anymore is because i had to tilt the screw back towards the heatsink head slightly (very gently of course! Don't wanna bust that stupid aluminium screw again!!!!) because i had installed the motorsavers .21 offroad air filter which kinda does't allow much room for your fingers to twist the needle screw.

Anywayz, i would love to know how kirks 3spd tranny is coming! I am gonna take my LM for a spin again. The only reason i don't enjoy the LM as much as i should is cos the engine overheats so much even if i do run it very rich. Oh well... i'll buy a new engine sometime.

Laterz,

Chris :D

[Redfox]

Coooool! Dad just called me up from NY and told me that the 2spd tranny had arrived in NY and he's bringing it back to Oz next week!! Woo hooooooo!!! Now that's service for ya! I'm very impressed wiv hobby services!! That is exceptional.... dad said that he thinks they just sent me a whole new assembly. Maybe the last one was too shot to fix up economically. Anywayz that has really made my day. Oh and he also received the fisher space pen refills i ordered on the net! So now i can write upside down and under water, under nitro even!! hehehe mwahahhaha :D
Can't wait to get the 2 speed working... i'm very happy now!! YAY!!!

Cheers,

CHris :D

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Well, i have all the parts needed for the three speed tranny (including some extras like the main shaft) but Im waiting for the ball bearings (probably from Boca)before final assembly. The good news is I think it will all work with some minor mods...mainly trimming down the main shaft and then adding the drive cups and the spacer from the gtw 30 two speed....also the Mad Force manual would be nice to have (hint,hint) so I can make sure Im putting this dang thing together right and adjust it when the car is finally running (I hope the MF manual is not like the LM 1 manual which only shows the steps needed to put the unassembled parts car together, with you relying on the exploded drawing for the rest of the assembly).

I also have most of the parts I need to get this thing going but I did run into a snag...my step dad usually can get the aluminum plate I need from some supplier guy in Michigan, but i guess this guy was layed off and now Im with out aluminum plate (anyone know where I can get some 5mm-6mm 7075 T6 plate fairly cheap?). Well as far as parts go for my project go Im kind of emarrassed of how much $$$ Ive spent but Ive collected these parts for over 2 years so I dont feel as bad.....Im not going to list the part numbers (because I lazy) but just a rough listing:
custom machined 5mm chasis (when I get the aluminum!!!), custommachined rear alum. rear bulkhead support, custom carbonfiber radio tray/front plate/front body support/bottom drop battery tray, all titanium screws(where i could replace), kyosho alum cntr diff mount, hardened balls/ball ends, lunsford tiatnium turnbuckles and hingepins(I called lunsford a few weeks ago and they said that they normally dont do this but they put a set of hingepins together for me for the LM1 ...I knew they had all the sizes available by checking their web site for their 1/8 buggies including the EB4, MP6/7,AND MBX so there was no need for custom mach