Kyosho Landmax Forum v1.0 [Archive]

Redfox

11-03-2001, 09:25 PM

Cool, thanks for the advice Hfracing, StephenB, and boocake4u.... the Landmax that i can get my hands on for $329 is the corolla one which is based on the mp5 buggy... i was just wondering why the mp7.5 is so much better than the mp5??

i have heard a lot about the shocks on the landmax being a bit crappy, but i suppose it'll be a hop up for later on. Btw, does the landmax use special sized shocks?? (i'm not in touch with the 1/8th world)

also, regarding the steering servo, i noticed that tower hobbies has some high torque servos that are really well priced. They have a "1/4 Scale BB Servo" that has the following specs:

Dimensions: 1.14" x 2.32" x 1.97"
Weight: 3.6 ounces
Torque: 110 ounce/inches
Tansit Time: .19/60

it seems pretty good for $30.59, but i dunno if this 1/4 scale servo will fit in the landmax...

they have this other servo "TS-71MG Super Torque Hi-Speed Mini"
Torque: 4.8V:110 oz.-in.
Speed:4.8V:.20 sec/60 degrees
Dimensions: 1.6"x.8"x1.5"
this one is for $34.99

and finally, TS-35MG Hi Power Metal Gear Mini

Torque: 4.8V:110 oz.-in.
6.0V:18.2 oz.-in.
Speed:4.8V:.20 sec/60 degrees
6.0V:.16sec/60 degrees
Weight:2.12 oz.
Dimensions: 1.6"x.8"x1.5"
for only $32.99...

these tower servo's seem heaps cheaper than the futaba ones? has anyone got any suggestions whether these are a decent investment? I dunno what size i need to fit in the landmax?? anyone know dimensions for the servos for the landmax?

Thanks for all ya help so far!! You guys know shiteloads more than my LHS!! hehehe

Cheers =]

Einsteindks

11-03-2001, 09:54 PM

1/4 scale servos ain't gonna fit in the Landmax. You want regular size, with at least 80 oz/in of torque to wrestle the steering and the throttle/brake. Shoot for transit times less than .20 seconds/60 deg. if possible. I use a coreless servo on my throttle. The coreless has less resistance to a forced turn (by a throttle return spring) in the event of lost signal or a power loss to the receiver. I use Futaba servos, and they've been VERY reliable for me. The water/dirt sealed ones make cleanup of my Inferno buggies a whole lot easier!
Kyosho has some nice shocks that you can upgrade to. They've a dust boot over the shaft to protect from dirt and nicks.

Redfox

11-03-2001, 10:34 PM

Cool, thanks for the advice mate =]

Ummm, well can you fit a throttle return spring to a landmax wiv the kyosho gs.21r?? it has a slide carb...

Ok, so i should definitely go with a high torque coreless servo then! =] fantastic...

Now, does anyone know why towerhobbies has got the corolla landmax for sale for $372.92, and the rest for $399.99 and then they even have the ford escort and imprezza for $459.99?!?! very fishy if you ask me?! maybe the $459.99 ones are landmax 2s?? i dunno, but i'm prolly gettin the corolla one from ehobbies for $329, and i wanna know if there is anything defective with it!! why is it such a low price?! any ideas anyone???

=]

tbass2

11-04-2001, 01:12 AM

DOH! Before reading this I just posted a review of a landmax in your other post. It is the Superflow F-150, read it if thats what you were thinking on getting.

BOOCAKE4U

11-04-2001, 02:07 AM

i think thats just them being weird and/or trying to move the kits that dont sell as well (not to mention trying to gouge on the impreza and escort that everybody gets)...i swear all the landmax 1's were 399 last week...the lancia stratos is 349 on their site btw (under off road .16+)...and as i stated, all of those cars have identical guts except the landmax 2/7.5 impreza and peugeot...even the f150 is the same, just bigger wheels and tires...

as regards your parts questions...since the things are inferno based, they use inferno shocks which, like all 1/8th scales, are bigger than their 10th scale counterparts...the wheels are 2.6" (may be able to use 2.2" tires..i havent tried) and the whole thing is about 20" long overrall...if you have never seen any 1/8th scale car run, you are in for a big treat...

BOOCAKE4U

11-04-2001, 02:16 AM

the first link i gave you has some good pics under his "project HF2t" (and a ton of great info)...

www.dvoeglazov.com/hfracing/html/hfracing.htm

and this one has the rundown on the whole line (landmax 1 and 2):

www.kyosho.co.jp/indexx-e.html

and edited to include this one which is an 1:8th scale buggy page which happens to include a nice listing of pretty much all well-known servos suitable for 8th scale and thus, your application

www.twf8.ws/new/tech/servos.html

Redfox

11-04-2001, 04:29 AM

Cool, thanks for the info mate! i'm just checkin out those pages now =]

Btw, i'm impressed by HfRacing's landmax project... looks awesome!

Hrmmm i reckon i'll just get the corolla and grin and bear it!! it's not that ugly a car is it?! hehehe apart from the fact that i wanna kick it in the nose!! hehehe j/k

=]

Redfox

11-04-2001, 04:59 AM

Hey boocake?? i was just readin the servo page you told me to go to (it's a great and very informative site btw) and whoever wrote it reckons....

As most servo manufacturers are also using servo motors with less windings the current these wonders are drawing can be excessively high. During normal racing conditions a normal 500/600 mAh, Nicad battery pack might be drained before the end of the race. The use of Ni-Mh batteries is advised.

ummmmm when it comes to receiver packs?? first of all, i just have the typical 4 AA battery pack setup here, and i was wondering if i should invest in the proper heatshrink rechargeable packs?? also, what kinda charger do you purchase for these receiver packs?? i already have a nicad charge that i used for my kyosho buggy. it can charge variable amperage batteries... can i just use this and change the connector to fit the receiver pack?? or do i need to buy a charger especially for the receiver batt?? is Nimh worth it??

=]

BOOCAKE4U

11-04-2001, 09:12 AM

i would buy the nicads yes...unless you have an inexhaustible source of AA batteries..eheh

that rating is pretty low...i havent seen a 500mAh pack in a long time...heres another link for you (just to give you an idea)...most any pack you buy will be 1000mAh plus...

www.ace-hobbies.com/Images/Airtronics/receiverpacks.html

you have to charge the packs at 6V so i'm not sure if the charger you already have will do it...

Redfox

11-04-2001, 08:08 PM

yeah it has a variable adjustment on it, so you can charge the batteries at low amps to "trickle charge" them... so i suppose it'll be ok.. anywayz that ace hobbies site has pretty cheap chargers... might get one of those...

i may get NiMh later on if i reckon it's worth it...

so do you know any manufacturers that make hop ups for the landmax??

=]

BOOCAKE4U

11-04-2001, 09:11 PM

most any mp5 parts will work...and theres plenty of those

RC HICKOCK

11-12-2001, 10:24 PM

Hello REDFOX

Back in 98 & 99 RCCA published articles on the Landmax and after reading those reviews I got one with all the recommended options. Got to tell ya that the car is fast and performs very well. You will like it even better with the upgrades.
Now having said that much I should tell you I waited 6 MONTHS to receive a silicone exhaust coupler. This fundamental 90 degree exhaust coupler was back ordered @ TOWER for Six MONTHS.
Be advised that parts support for these vehilcle leaves me wary of anything KYOSHO makes.
Additionally REDFOX know that RCCA has reported in reviews of the GS21R Kyosho (in a KYOSHO MP-6 "SPORT") "OVERHEATED" and "RUNS VERY HOT".
DO WHAT YA GOTTA DO!!!& ENJOY.....OUI

Redfox

11-13-2001, 01:15 AM

Thanks for the tips HICKOCK =]

Well i think i'm gonna go ahead and buy it! I dunno if i should get it in the USA or here in Australia... i can get it for AU$860 at my LHS or US$339 from tower...

lemme know what you reckon

RC HICKOCK

11-13-2001, 12:43 PM

Redfox

You will enjoy the vehicle. Get a feel for the $$$ for replacement parts. Tower,( Read that Great Planes) has a monopoly on distribution and I have not seen ANY Landmax components , like bodies on "SALE" for anything less then Towers "everyday" prices.
IE; a replacement Subaru body set sells for $80.00us, I've not seen it lower anywhere. Consider this if you are on a tight budget.

All the best....

RC HICKOCK

hfracing

11-13-2001, 05:18 PM

Great to hear that people like my work... i spent almost the entire last winter making that car(HF2), and it ROCKS!! i put it on the track one day, next to another landmax(also a mp5 based car). He didnt see my car in the pits and you should have seen his face when i hit the throttle when he tried to pass me just as we were entering the back-sthraight. the stock car kinda looked like it stopped.. :D With some small mods(thats what i call the things i did) the landmax HAS to be one of the most entertaining rc-cars made.. Maybe i should pull out a videocamera, and take some footage of this car? You guys are correct when saying that the GS-21R engine runs hot... I didnt even use mine for three weeks before getting all upgrade-crazy ...

I went the opposite route when choosing a body.. i got a Skyline GTR body, and i lowered/stiffened the suspension, to make it a track racer..
Small tip- when running landmaxes onroad, lock up the center-diff Put VERY heavy grease in the front, and medium grease in the rear. This will make the handling very good onroad...
http://dvoeglazov.com/hfracing/html/4sale/chassis.jpg
Heres a pic of my modded car during maintenance(typing?! bad?!:)

canadianredneak

11-13-2001, 05:32 PM

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh someone get me a rag to dry up my drewl:eek:

StephenB

11-13-2001, 06:19 PM

One thing of note on the NEW Landmax2 is the updated engine...my Landmax2 included a TWO-needle carb that greatly reduced the running temps of the GS21 engine. Temps, when running well, were in the high 200's...not bad at all, considering the older engine ran around 360F!!!

The Landmax2, while incorporating the newer GS21 engine, more importantly is based upon *new* chassis engineering (Inferno 7.5) which means many things. 1)better performance over the older Landmax (2)better parts support for your model--Great Planes stocks every part of the Landmax2, and is beginning to phase-out the older Landmax part.

Invest in the new Landmax2 if you're gonna buy one---you'll be very pleased you did. They're mega-fun!

Redfox

11-13-2001, 07:59 PM

Thanks for the pic HFracing! That is one SERIOUSLY modified landmax!!! hehehe hey when r u gonna finish the suspension part to your website. I've been visiting it every so often waiting for the suspension page to be finished construction =] a video would be maaaad!! don't you reckon ppl??

Umm stephenb, you have made an extremely valid point! I was considering the landmax2, but for $459 it is pretty damn high for the corolla landmax1 for $335 btw does anyone know why the corolla has been reduced in price so much recently?! it's the only car that has been reduced. Yesterday it was $339 and today it is $335.22 !!! what the heck is going on?? Anywayz, i reckon there are plenty of Landmax parts available, or at least MP5 parts still available right?? or wrong?? Btw, does your landmax2 have a cooling fan or has that been erradicated??

Ya see, i dunno if i'm willing to go up to $459 for the landmax 2 when the original is $335.22, bearing in mind that i still have to fork out some dosh to buy 2 high torque servos. Also, does the landmax or landmax 2 come with a throttle return spring?? how do these throttle return springs work on a slide carb?? I was advised to get a coreless high torque for the throttle/brake so that the servo would have less resistance when failed for the throttle return spring to work? Is this a good idea anyone??

Also, i just noticed that the Subaru Landmax 2 for $459 is discontinued at tower. WHat's the deal with that? Is it out of stock cos it's so popular or what?

So HFracing, do you reckon i should get the landmax or the landmax 2?? i suppose in the long run the landmax2 will be a better investment (actually let me correct myself... nothing in RC is an investment!!!) because of more parts availability right?

Cheers fellas, waiting to hear from ya

Redfox

StephenB

11-14-2001, 11:30 PM

Red, yes the Landmax2 seems like a better "investment" mainly because of its updated 2-needle carb'd engine. It'll run cooler, perform better and last longerthan the nuclear reactor-ish original GS21R engine, and it's based on newer, more advanced Inferno 7.5 technology.

Redfox

11-15-2001, 12:01 AM

Can i possibly just get the older landmax and stick a new 2 needle carb on the engine? I just figured that i can run the car around til the engine doesn't perform as well or loses its compression and then get a new and 'decent' one??

What do you reckon??

=]

hfracing

11-15-2001, 03:30 AM

I think you guys have not looked at a engine from the landmax 1.
The carb has two needles atleast mine had:)
It had a big main needle, and a lowspeed needle on the outside of the slide.. and ofcourse it also had the idle RPM screw.. But anyway. if the landmax had come with a better engine, it would be king, right out of the box.
I am very happy with my TTR .21 pro. It can almost keep up with my friends landmax after he installed the engine from his 1/8 buggy.. OS(dont remember the name, but it was the fastest engine from OS last year). He was really pissed that he couldnt beat be around the track.!!
I recommend the TTR .21 engine. AND, you can get it with a pullstart. It has to be one of the most powerful pullstart engines available... I had the change the clutchbell from 15tooth to 17tooth, to limit wheelspin on dry hot asphalt with slicks on my car(it actually accelerated quicker with the taller gearing, because the stock gearing gave me too much wheelspin!!!)
Why dont you get a used l.max in good condition, use the cash you saave to upgrade the engine.... :p

RC HICKOCK

11-15-2001, 04:46 AM

HFRACING

You are quite right regarding the GS21R Carb, it does have 2 needle adjustments, low and high speed.
Tower has available the "NEW" carbs for the "NEW GS21R" (a 7mm & an 8mm venturi versions). Also the "NEW" "updated" heatsink for this engine is also for sale. fits old GS21R too
The "NEW" GS21R engine is supposed to be instock @ Tower in late December for 189.00!!!!
It will be interesting to see how well the Landmax2 sells with the US economy in the tank.... (as well as the entire rc industry on the whole).
Hmmmm...... maybe intrest free financing..Yeah that's the ticket

hfracing

11-15-2001, 06:38 PM

For those of you that have the old GS .21 R, dont waste your $$$ on parts of any kind for the GS engine, get a decent low level racing engine like the one i got, or something in that department.. you will never regret.. and it sure puts a smile on your face to be able to powerslide through the entire track on dry hot asphalt(using rally tires that is...With slicks, it kinda works like a very big touring car.Its fast enough to scare some 1/10 fuel touring cars on the track)

Redfox

11-15-2001, 11:22 PM

Hey ppl, i'm getting a landmax repsol ford escort wiv the kyosho gs-.21r engine. I think that this engine is a slide carb style and i was wonderin what the deal is wiv the throttle return spring.
First of all, do you think that the kit comes with the throttle return spring or do i have to purchase it? And also where the heck do you get them?? I've only seen a duratrax one on the tower website.
Also, how do you attach them to the ball on the slide carb so that they function should you lose battery power or the linkage gets disconnected??
Any info would be much appreciated!

Redfox =]

RC HICKOCK

11-16-2001, 01:34 AM

Redfox

Every thing needed should be included in the kit. I had no problems with assembling the Landmax kit as mine was perfectly complete.
As far as scraping the GS21R, I would disagree. The engine is fully servicable/rebuildable. It's a good quality, genuine ABC entry level nitro mill. it's not "Racing Exotic" but I can get mine to "4 wheel drift" in VERY BIG circles, REALLY FUN!!
Serious Racing aside the GS21R is more than adequate.
My 2 cents.........

Redfox

11-16-2001, 01:51 AM

Cool, thanks for the advice. I wasn't planning on getting a new engine til it loses compression which hopefully won't be too soon. But i'll keep my eye out for some decent .21 engines when it does die. Btw i'm gonna get myself a failsafe unit and a receiver battery monitor so the damn car doesn't kill itself!!

=]

hfracing

11-18-2001, 06:21 PM

Hey guys... tomorrow is the big day...
Im pulling out a DV camera( a friend og mine has one) and we are going to take some footage of the landmax (HF2) on track here in norway.. The winter has come, but the snow hasnt fallen much yet, so the track is still dry.
:D
But THIS is the coolest part... to follow up all the crazy things i have been doing in the past we are strapping the DV camera(its a new, very expensive sony handycam.You know, the one that fits into you hand.(In $ i think the price here in Norway is about $1700 :eek: ) onto my landmax for some very unique in-car footage... :D I have even made a special "DV-camera shelf" just for this project, HAHAHA being crazy is goood!!
The big landmax will hardly notice the extra weight. We have already done this with my stock powered TC3, with great results..
I will be racing it against a serpent impulse..(very carefully i might add, since the camera isnt mine:) )
So you guys want to see the finished product?? hehe... i will be putting it on my website some time next week...

I am expecting some very high speed drag runs on the back straight.... Even the TC3 using stock motor seemed fast when we mounted the DV cam in it... hmmm.. the tc3 seems to stand still compared to HF2??? Weeeee,... im REALLY looking forward to this....:D :D

Redfox

11-18-2001, 07:59 PM

YESSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!! You don't know how happy you've just made me!! I can't wait to see it harald!!

Hey, ya better make a roll cage for your cam, ortherwise if you flip it, i don't think it's gonna survive the trip!!

tell me when it's up on your site, and i'll go check it out (and so will everyone else on the BB i'm sure!)

So when is the suspension part gonna come up on the website eh?? Is winter time the time that you spend modding your car?

You wouldn't believe it, but TOwer hobbies has put my order for the landmax on hold cos i have to speak to customer service!! ARGH!! so i doubt dad'll be able to bring it back home to Oz in time.... *sob* i might have to go pick it up when i go there next month. And the stupid thing is that i have to either wake up early or stay up really late to call them....

Anywayz, good work HF... can't wait to see it (damn i wish i had broadband again!!) Are you gonna make different quality versions for us poor dialups??

=]

hfracing

11-19-2001, 05:00 AM

the suspension part will probably never be finidhed... im selling my HF2 car to finance next years 1/10 fuel touring season.... :(
Actually sad, since i spent so many hours working on it...

But i Will put some video clips on my site... I cant guarantee that i will have several versions(sizes)..
wait and see... Only 3 hours till we start filming....

Redfox

11-19-2001, 08:16 AM

Just outta interest harald, how much r u hopin to get for it eh?

I'm already in hop ups mode even before i get the car. Tower has held up the order and i gotta call customer service for some reason!! :(

so i'm still waiting for my escort landmax... i doubt it'll get to NY in time for my dad to bring it home now... :mad:

anywayz, back to the hop ups... what are the companies that make really cool alu or carbon fibre option parts for the landmax or the MP5??

btw is the mp5 pretty much the same as the mp6 buggy? what's the diff?? anyone?

=]

ecatbox

11-19-2001, 10:15 PM

the landmax 1 is based on the inferno series of buggies...basically an inferno dx II with the shorter a-arms/dogbones/turnbuckles etc...the inferno has been discontinued for a long time but you can still get replacement parts and hop-ups from quite a few places...

titanium hingepins and turnbuckles available from lunsford (buy the turnbuckles separately and i am gonna see about piecing together hingepins since they no longer sell the inferno kit)

some pretty aluminum (aluminIum to you weirdos) {side note: i have heard questionable things about gpm parts quality-wise**

www.hobbyetc.com/shopby/vehicle.cgi?manufact=Kyosho

some cool but expensive eyetalian aluminum parts from
fioroni and nuova faor:

www.quicktechhobby.com/prices/cars/ca2.html

and tons of stuff from tower hobbies/kyosho like ball bearing steering, hard steel universals, 2 speed, aluminum or plastic hub for the center diff and single speed steel spur gears..and probably most useful, the duratrax 6 disc brake system (my next upgrade - my landmax has a ofna/picco .21, CVEC and a 2 speed and IT SCARES ME)

i think i will be putting up a website soon detailing my adventures with this car...harald has inspired me to attempt making my own a-arms, shock towers and chassis brace parts..and i have compiled an extensive listing of replacement and custom parts which should be helpful to other fans of this highly underrated car...

incidentally, heres a link for a $30 failsafe:

www.horizonhobby.com/products/description.asp?prod=DYN2550

note: ace hardware hobbies and national rc also carry some replacement and hop up parts

http://www.ace-hobbies.com/PartsPricing/kyoshomp6/index.html
http://www.nationalrc.com

ecatbox

11-19-2001, 10:29 PM

also, definitely DO use a throttle return spring...just find a suitable one at the hardware store or around the house...i will have to post a pic detailing how i set it up but it IS possible to do it without straining the servo at all...

Redfox

11-20-2001, 12:19 AM

bukkake, thanks heaps for this info mate. Give us a link to your website and i'll follow your tips on the TRS. I didn't think it was possible to use a TRS without putting strain on the throttle servo.

i got the futaba failsafe unit for $54.99 at tower. If i knew about the one at horizon, i would've got that... oh well...

What are a good set of replacement shocks for those poor quality kyosho ones that comes with the landmax??

3" front and 4" rear right??

thanks again =]

Redfox

11-20-2001, 08:36 AM

Another question for you ppl!! You know how the landmax comes 60% assembled (basically the drivetrain) does kyosho use threadlock when they assemble it?? Or is it a good idea for me to pull it apart and apply threadlock to the metal-metal screws??
Do you reckon it's ok just to leave the assembled part alone and just start building from there??
=]

RC HICKOCK

11-20-2001, 09:25 AM

GUDDAY Redfox

You would be wise to use thread adhesive on EVERYTHING that is attached with threaded fasteners. This would include the ENGINE and all fasteners holding FACTORY ASSEMBLED COMPONENTS to the chassie.
The little hotrod WILL VIBRATE ITSELF APART if you don't....
It's a bit of a pain but ,ya gotta do it. Remove the engine from the chassie and remove each bolt one at a time, apply the thread adhesive and reinstall it. you may use the adhesive designed for this purpose included in the kit or you can purchase some "Blue Locktite". I've not found this needed for the individual differentials.
Redfox, in your kit is included a parts list. on the back of the list you'll find part numbers for every part on you Landmax as well as optional "hop up" parts. If you wish to upgrade use KYOC5733 (front) & KYOC5734 (rear)
Review the instructions well prior to assembly, even though the kit is 60% pre- assembled there is still A LOT of parts for you to install.

ecatbox

11-20-2001, 09:47 AM

yep, 3 and 4"...heres some kyosho numbers:

(nice but pricey mp6 international shocks)
KYOC6024 IFW-30 SUPER TEFLON SHOCK MED
KYOC6025 IFW-31 SUPER TEFLON SHOCK LONG
(older mp5 shocks)
KYOC6276 BSW-72 TURBO SHOCK MEDIUM Optional
KYOC6277 BSW-73 TURBO SHOCK LONG Optional

i guess pretty much any 8th scale shocks will work if you happen across any bargains...

be sure to loctite the kingpins, the little setscrews in all drive cups etc...make sure you get all the little grub screws etc in your linkages and suspension...use locknuts where possible and dont forget the screw that holds the ball end to the carb...

gixxer

11-20-2001, 11:19 AM

It's not on the daily sale now. The daily sale is where the prices drop everyday until they take it out or inventory quanity is meant. I waited to purchace my mp6 and paid 289 for it and now it back up to 379 (no reason). I used ad cupons "don't forget to use

Ad#11087 for purchaes over $300 to save $20 bucks!!
You total cost will be 303.01!!!

As for your landmax. The first upgrade should be ball bearings. You need 8 more for the wheels. I don't know if this kit comes with aluminum gears or steel. The aluminum sucks and strips with a strong engine! I have no Idea it they make a plain jane metal ones for those things but harden steel is the best bet and that'll get costly. I see the mp6-sport is around the same price if your interested in a buggy. That for sure i know it has the cheap gears, but better turbo shocks and full bearing. Personally i'd go with mp6 even if a rally car seems cooler in certain ways.

Good luck and tell us what you decide to do!

Redfox

11-21-2001, 12:51 AM

Gidday again =]

well, i've finally purchased the damn thing!! After a lot of arguing with Tower on the fone (i don't think they like australians), i got the Repsol Ford Escort Landmax. I found it for a special in the last speedmart that they sent me. $309.99 is a pretty damn good price for a landmax i reckon! They just put it up to $459.99 again!! don't ask me why... and apparently it's discontinued!! Who knows how Tower thinks!! hehehe if it's a good deal for me, then i'm happy!
I'll let ya know what i got:

2 ts-71mg tower hobbies super torque 2bb servos (these are old hitec or futaba servos right??)

stabiliser set (rear sway bar i think)

some spare suspension arms, cos i know i'll break them and since i live in Oz, it's gonna be hard to get replacements...

10 8x16 duratrax ball bearings (to upgrade for the wheels like gixxer said)

duratrax fuel filter

spare set of rally tires, and 15 spokes to match

the free kyosho car aids metric screw set (they said that these are too small for 1/8th scale kits, but i got it anywayz cos it's free)

futaba failsafe unit (i would've got the one from horizon if i knew about it before... doh!)

and the $15 promotional discount!!

So i'm a happy camper now!! i'm just waiting in anticipation for the landmax to be brought home by my dad, or i'll bring it home when i go to NY next month...

About the threadlock stuff, i think i better play it safe and threadlock the already assembled parts... and anywayz, it'll give me a better idea of how the drivetrain works... (and i'll try not to forget the ball end on the carb one... infact i think that should be done wiv the red loctite if ya know what i mean!! don't want that one comin off!!)

So when i get around to it, i suppose the next hop ups on the car are gonna be some decent shocks (cos the ones that come wiv the landmax are apparently really dicey and they leak), and maybe even a 2 speed if i reckon i can handle it!! Btw, does anyone know about 2 speeds on a rally car?? cos i'm just thinkin, if you spin ya wheels on the dirt, then technically the engine is reaching pretty high revs, and doesn't that mean the 2nd gear is gonna kick in??

Bukkake, i'm waiting to hear from you about attaching the TRS to the carb without straining the servo =]

Oh, and HFracing... WHEN IS DA MPG COMIN?! I can't wait to see how fast your baby goes...

Cheers everyone, and thanks for ya help =]

gixxer

11-21-2001, 11:49 AM

Glad to hear you bought it! You didn't use the -20 discount i've found for you?

RC HICKOCK

11-21-2001, 12:52 PM

HELLO Redfox

I was wondering if HFRACING could advise on what exactly was required to install his TTR21 in his Landmax as far as parts needed were concerned,( motor mounts, clutch, pipe, manifold,etc.) ALSO what did it all cost ya?
While I don't believe the stock GS21R should "scrapped" out of the box. knowing what parts were needed for upgrading would be a blessing.

Thank you Gents

Hickock

Redfox

11-21-2001, 09:43 PM

Gixxer, i used a $15 discount... sorry, i didn't see ya message in time... another $5 would've been handy tho! I could've got some glows plugs! =[

Btw, rc hickock, what landmax body have ya got??

Anyone know what landmax bodies are so friggin expensive?! Or rather, does anyone know of any other companys that make touring/rally style 1/8th scale bodies?? for less than US$80??

Thanks =]

RC HICKOCK

11-21-2001, 11:43 PM

Hey REDFOX

I am using the Subaru WRC painted like the box picture.
I have a PARMA Chevy Lumina 1/8 scale body that I've yet to finish. Gonna paint and decorate in memory of the Late Dale Earnhardt's #3.
Redfox there VERY FEW aftermarket parts manufactured by anybody....(except KYOSHO) for the 1/8 scale Landmax Rally Cars...alas. Hey Mate, Happy American Thanksgiving.

All The Best

RC Hickock

Redfox

11-22-2001, 12:04 AM

Yeah you too =] btw what's thanksgiving?? please don't flame me... i don't think we have that over here!

Have you guys got boxing day?? The 26th Dec? it's a public holiday for us.

Also, i suppose if i can't find any option parts for the landmax, i'm gonna have to follow harald's lead and make my own! =] Cos i've done quite a lot of metal work before, and i have worked wiv carbon fibre too, so it should be easy... do ya reckon i need a welder??

Btw are dremel's any good?? Do you guys have one, and how much do i hafta pay for it?

=] (Happy Thanksgiving)

Einsteindks

11-23-2001, 12:30 AM

For us Yanks, Thanksgiving was the first big harvest feast between the Pilgrims and the native American indians. It's observed today on the fourth Thursday of November each year. The indians more-or-less bailed the Pilgrims out of a potential famine situation, teaching them how to grow crops for the future. The Pilgrims, as a result, 'gave thanks'. Your turn...what's 'Boxing Day'? I don't remember what it's about exactly.

Redfox

11-24-2001, 01:12 AM

I have no idea what boxing day signifies, but it's a public holiday on the 26th of december... some ppl think it's the best day of the year cos there are 364 days til christmas!! hehehe =]

hrmmm i'm still waiting on my landmax to be delivered to NY in time... this Fedex parcel trackin thing is great =]

cya 'round...

Redfox

11-24-2001, 01:13 AM

Hey harald?! How did the video go man?? Let us know when it's downloadable ok?? =]

Redfox

12-04-2001, 09:22 PM

Hey again ppl!!

Well, i've finally got my Landmax!!! I got back from my schoolies holiday week up on the gold coast (queensland) and found the landmax box sitting inside the front door!! My dad brought it home from the states yesterday. Anywayz, i've almost finished constructing it... few things i dislike are:

crappy shocks... i rebuilt one 3 times and for some reason is still sounds like it has air in it.

small bumper... WHEN i crash my landmax, the front of the body is gonna take a hell of a beating!! infact i wouldn't even call it a bumper.

otherwise it's pretty good...

bukkake, can you please post how to attach a TRS without straining the servos, because i know lots of other ppl would like to know too.

I'll post some pics when it's done... maybe

Cheers,

Chris

ecatbox

12-10-2001, 11:45 PM

so whaddaya think? once you get the kyosho motor broken in it doesnt run too bad at all...pretty punchy and sounds good winding out as you rip down the street at 50mph/80km

my projects are coming along pretty nicely...been thinking about different ideas for bracing the chassis and stuff...still trying to get that ofna picco engine/2 speed combo properly dialed in...that car is so powerful (~2.1hp) and incredibly undergeared (13/16 bell and 50/53 spurs compared to 15/51 stock) that its a handful to control under hard acceleration...the spur gears in the 2 speed do seem pretty sturdy so far though...and i picked up a nice hitec 605mg servo off ebay for steering and put the futaba 9304 on throttle/braking duty...

as far as the extra throttle spring thing goes, theres no real magic involved...just remember to give the spring plenty of leverage on the servo arm by putting it as close to the outside as you can and to preload it just enough so that when its totally "relaxed" the throttle is completely closed and there is some amount of brake applied...remembering that the point of this spring is not so much to keep the throttle closed (the stock one in the linkage does that) but to prevent runaways...set up properly, the servo will be able to hold it easily without making a bunch of noise and straining against it...im a big believer in using decent servos for the throttle/brakes anyway, especially with an overpowered 8th scale car that is capable of doing some serious damage..and has stock PLASTIC brakes...ehehe

i will get some pics up before long...

Redfox

12-12-2001, 08:28 AM

yeah bukkake, it's pretty darn spectacular... Now tell me this, is it a big sin to do big jumps off embankments with the landmax? I'm talkin jumps that you would normally reserve for your buggies?? Hehehe cos i did a few today and it was fuuuuuuun!!!

Btw, i've never used a sway bar kit before, but i bought one for the lanmax but it doesn't come with any instructions!! Can you gimme some advice about where i should attach it and how??

I can see the lil holes on the back off the lower suspension arms (rear) and i just dunno where to stick all the attachments for the sway bar!!

Any help from anyone would be great! =]

Cheers,

Chris

Redfox

12-12-2001, 08:39 AM

Btw, these blue landmax shocks are shocking!! THey've already got air in em and i made pretty sure i did a good job... hmph!! Definitely need new shocks and definitely needs a front foam bumper... these suspension arms are definitely not as strong as the buggy ones...

my bro hit a wall wiv it today not too hard, and the front right lower arm broke! I can't understand why they don't include the foam bumper cos it has a TC body, and if i crashed it, the lexan would crack because there is nothin behind it!!

ecatbox

12-12-2001, 11:38 AM

yah i think those shocks are kyoshos idea of a joke...i might be picking up a set of ofna shocks (for the worlds gt) and i'll let you know how they work...

take a good look at haralds chassis pic that he posted earlier...he has a bar on the back there...looks like the center of the bar mounts to the bulkhead and the ends to the upper control arm as one would expect...my swaybars are still in some dusty corner at tower hobbies because i am saving up for a relatively huge parts order due to their ridiculous shipping charges...

as far as the a-arms, yeah i plan to replace mine (along with some other kyosho humorparts (like the rear shock tower) with some custom made of nice 6061 aluminum...

i may even have a surprise in a couple hours....

ecatbox

12-12-2001, 02:20 PM

sweet! i just got enough carbon fiber (3mm nice lookin shiny stuff) to do two entire graphite double decker landmax chassis...but i think i will just do one with the full on treatment...see exactly how light it can get...poor mans serpent..ahah

i'm hoping to get a digital cam for xmas too so i can document the whole thing...i'll get the aluminum next...that shouldnt be too bad at all

Redfox

12-13-2001, 12:18 AM

That sounds great bukkake =]

I love carbon fiber, it's just awesome! This year, a friend of mine made a gas powered scooter entirely out of carbon fiber, and it's light as anything, but also damn strong! Can you just buy sheets of pre made CF or did you have to make it with epoxy on a flat surface??

Btw, with the stock GS21R, which mixture control screw is the high end and which is the low end? AM i right in saying that the one sticking up (made outta plastic) is the high end, and the one on the end of the slide fixture is the low end??

Chris

StephenB

12-13-2001, 12:32 AM

Red, yes you're correct. Start tuning the needles with the high-end first, and then go to the low-end.

ecatbox

12-13-2001, 01:11 AM

yah these were pre-laid sheets..2 of em 18" x 25" each

an ebay special..eheh

thanks for coverin for me stephenb

Redfox

12-16-2001, 09:50 AM

thanks stephenb...

now i have a big prob!! the piece of $!#% has a busted up rear diff now.

Ok here's the prob... last nite, i noticed when rolling it on the carpet that the rear diff was rather noisy... anywayz, i ran it today, and after a while i hear the rear diff slipping... after running it a little more, the car barely goes cos the rear diff has slipped soo much...

so basically, the aluminium outer bevel gears in the rear diff are stuffed up and don't mesh very well anymore (ie they have very rounded tips). When i opened the diff a whole bunch of aluminium dust comes out. Not happy about this!!

The thing is, this is a landmax, which comes 60% assembled. The rear diff and the whole drive train was already assembled! After a detailed inspection, i found that the actually diff moved a lot from side to side in the casing. I read the instruction sheets with the exploded diagram and found that the damn thing is supposed to have 2 washers, one on either side of the diff, between the casing and the ball bearings. Anywayz, the stupid person who put the diff together didn't put them in. So my theory is that because of that, the diff moved a bit too far left, and since the engine is soo powerful, it started eating off the tips of the gear teeth. And after a while, that would explain the excess slippage. It was at the stage where the car wouldn't move at all cos the centre diff transfered all the power into the rear diff which wasn't even meshing.

so do you get the picture now?! I'm not happy because kyosho has stuffed up and now i can't run my car. I'm coming to the states in a few dayz, but the prob is that i apparently have to send the whole car into be repaired under warranty to the hobbico ppl (service centres for kyosho in the US). But i don't wanna take my whole car to the USA! i'll send the diff, but that's it!!!

So i'm gonna call them tomorrow and try to work something out.

If i could replace the large and small outer bevel gear in the diff for under AU$50, i'll do it to avoid the hassle, but i don't think you can buy the large one separately.. i think you gotta buy the whole diff assembly. I know i can get the smaller bevel gear from tower, but the big one is the most stuffed up one...

Anywayz, if this has happened to anyone, then let me know. Any suggestions anybody??

Cheers,

Chris

ecatbox

12-16-2001, 09:21 PM

heres the part number:

KYOC2325 BS-121 BEVEL DRIVE GEAR IX (bevel drive gears 2 pc) $12.99US @tower

OR

KYOC3321 Kyosho Drive Bevel Small Turbo Burns/Inferno 18.39 (hardened)
KYOC3322 Kyosho Drive Bevel Large Turbo Burns/Inferno 27.99 (hardened)

and

LXV109 BS053 Kyosho Shim Set UNDXTBIF (16) $6.29US (might be helpful)

yah sounds like sloppy assembly...pretty strange...if you choose to repair it yourself, shim it up pretty tight and USE SILICONE DIFF OIL like god and kyosho intended...fill it up and seal the diffs with a little silicone...

in the meantime, you can take the front diff out and set it up right in the rear, then take out the front driveshaft and run it as a rwd...

in further news, i scored a new in box 2 speed for $73 off ebay and got my digital camera...heres a few pics

http://***********/gp20/misc/mine001.jpg
http://***********/gp20/misc/mine002.jpg
http://***********/gp20/misc/mine003.jpg

Redfox

12-17-2001, 07:17 AM

Holy mackeral!! have you got two landmaxes bukkake?!
Nice CVEC pipe you got there... that's for the .21 size right??
What engine is in that car??

$73 for a brand new 2 speed is a bargain!! you really are a bargain hunter aren't ya mate! =]

I'm surprised you kept those shocks on the car?! they're horrible aren't they?! both of my front ones have leaked already!!

Those hardened bevel gears for the burns, are they the same as the parts that come with the BS-121 package, ie. the small drive bevel pinion gear, and the large bevel spur gear that is attached to the diff with 4 screws?? Hardened would be good i suppose, but that's mighty expensive...

That shims set you described, does that have the washers/shims that are supposed to be in the diff casing?? The front diff is moving around quite a bit as well.. should i shim that up too?? I suppose the diff's shouldn't really move from side to side eh?

When you say fill it up with silicon oil, how am i supposed to do that?? cos you know how the diff casing isn't sealed completely.. it bolts to the chassis... if i was to fill it wiv diff oil, i suppose i gotta tip it upside down and attach it then eh?? Then seal around the edges with silicon??

I think if i wanna run it RWD i gotta somehow attach the fron dogbone to the chassis, or else the centre diff will transfer all the power to the front side...

Anywayz, thanks for the help... i'm gonna call kyosho tonite...

LAter,

Chris

Redfox

12-17-2001, 07:33 AM

One more thing, where should i put the shims?? in between the ball bearing and the actual diff, or in between the diff casing and the ball bearing?? i am thinking the latter, but could someone please clarify this??

cheers,

chris

ecatbox

12-17-2001, 12:19 PM

Holy mackeral!! have you got two landmaxes bukkake?!
Nice CVEC pipe you got there... that's for the .21 size right??
What engine is in that car??

yep...three actually but one needs some restoration (then i'll probably sell it on ebay)...thats a CVEC on an ofna/picco sport (on the car that already has the 2 speed_

$73 for a brand new 2 speed is a bargain!! you really are a bargain hunter aren't ya mate! =]

yeah i couldnt resist..i like having spares

I'm surprised you kept those shocks on the car?! they're horrible aren't they?! both of my front ones have leaked already!!

yeah they are pretty cheesy...havent replaced them yet but i will before too long...

Those hardened bevel gears for the burns, are they the same as the parts that come with the BS-121 package, ie. the small drive bevel pinion gear, and the large bevel spur gear that is attached to the diff with 4 screws?? Hardened would be good i suppose, but that's mighty expensive...

yep dats them...i would go with the regular parts unless you find you are chewing them up fast (when shimmed properly)

That shims set you described, does that have the washers/shims that are supposed to be in the diff casing?? The front diff is moving around quite a bit as well.. should i shim that up too?? I suppose the diff's shouldn't really move from side to side eh?

yep...check the tower description...you could probably find the right sized shims at the hardware store or something and save same money...

there should be no side to side play at all...the shims are basically how you set the mesh between the ring and pinion gear...and you want to have that a little tight with new gears as they will wear to fit each other...

When you say fill it up with silicon oil, how am i supposed to do that?? cos you know how the diff casing isn't sealed completely.. it bolts to the chassis... if i was to fill it wiv diff oil, i suppose i gotta tip it upside down and attach it then eh?? Then seal around the edges with silicon??

thats not the diff casing, thats the bulkhead...im talking about filling the actual diff (the roundish thing that chewed up ring gear is mounted to...ehehe) filling the diffs with oil helps prevent the diff unloading if one wheel loses traction (and prevents the front wheels spinning wildly when you put it in the center diff)...and provides a little lubrication for those little bevel gears in there

I think if i wanna run it RWD i gotta somehow attach the fron dogbone to the chassis, or else the centre diff will transfer all the power to the front side...

oops youre right...i was thinking of my car with the 2 speed (which replaces the center diff)...i was running it rwd the other day by accident (front drive cup loosened - loctite to the rescue)

ecatbox

12-17-2001, 12:21 PM

i knew i forgot one...shims between the bearing and the actual diff

edit to clarify:

bearing|shim|diff|shim|bearing

with shims as needed to get the mesh right

StephenB

12-17-2001, 08:25 PM

Red, as buk said...do NOT fill up the bulkheads with silicone oil :p The differentials themselves should be filled, but you really don't have to hassle with that unless you're racing.

As for the diff problem, I didn't have any meshing problems with my Landmax2, but mine is a different model than yours. When you reinstall the differential, make sure you have good gear mesh before buttoning everything up. If it doesn't spin smoothly, don't run it!

Redfox

12-17-2001, 09:28 PM

Righto, thanks for all ya help so far bukkake and stephenb... that makes more sense now. I'm going out today to get the BS-121 pack... i rang them up and they said that it includes a small bevel drive pinion and the larger bevel spur gear and also 1 brass shim... hehe how generous!! so i suppose i'm gonna have to find some more shims at the hardware store or the hobby shop...

btw, how much is glow fuel in the states? i know i can't bring it back (!!!) but i just wanna know how much i'm being ripped off by!!

later,

chris

ecatbox

12-17-2001, 11:50 PM

$25usd would be a good price for a gallon jug of something decent...

i got a new hitec dcx fm receiver on ebay ($55.46 shipped) to go with the futaba 2peka transmitter i got before ($53 shipped)...should be a pretty nice setup for cheap...i will try to get some better pics and maybe start the actual page for my little retarded project this week...should be getting the graphite soon too so i can pick up a few of the good dremel cutting wheels and get started on that also...ive been playing with different ideas for the chassis layout and one thing im sure i will do is use the plastic radio box from the mp5/6...i have a few sorta out there ideas for the car and the box will provide a lot more space/protection for the electronics...i also want to have the top deck go all the way around the car and tie into my as yet imaginary custom rear chassis brace (basically a ripoff of haralds brace except completely replacing the factory tierod thing with a solid piece of aluminum that ties into the rear center diff mount)...still thinking of a trick way to tie that front plate (that holds the bulkhead to the steering) into the plate on the top of the center diff...a tierod setup would work but i want to use the graphite there too for lateral stiffness, but the two plates are at different heights on the chassis so i have to come up with a pretty way to join em...some sort of spacer on that front plate would work and i dont have the capability to make a 3d aluminum piece that would double as the front plate and mount...i'll figure out something

/ramble

ecatbox

12-18-2001, 12:09 AM

dunno if you saw this a while back...he has lots of new pics up regardless...900MHz amd in a landmax shell...doesnt roll but it looks real pretty...them wacky ozzies!

http://members.iinet.net.au/~winndyne/

p.s. forgot to mention that i too covet the skyline body and i want the fancy 2 speed car to look like my favorite car from the gran turismo games, the 89 gtr r32 in "gun gray" (poop brown) metallic... i still like GT1 better because that car can have 900+hp compared to 600 something in GT2...it better be in GT3 too..eheh

this also means i probably have to learn airbrushing (and get the gear) because i havent seen that color in a spray...maybe tamiya makes a similar shade..haveta check on that

ecatbox

12-18-2001, 12:29 AM

eheh one more post...heres some pics i got off ebay..this woman was selling a "lot" of rc cars from an estate auction...basically a landmax and a superten and all the gear for both...but she started the bid at $599 and nobody touched it...i knew nobody would and sent her an email before close asking if she wanted to sell the 2 speed and the mercedes dtm landmax body (listed on the options sheet...and ive never seen another one)

edit: she didnt want to "break it up" and i havent seen her relist it...oh well

http://***********/gp20/misc/ebaymerc1.jpg
http://***********/gp20/misc/ebaymerc2.jpg
http://***********/gp20/misc/ebaymerc3.jpg

there were some very cool bodies made for this chassis over the years...the very first car (i think) had a gorgeous porsche 959 body that i remember being in an oooold xmas rcca (probably 10 years ago + now - maybe somebody cough*stephenb*cough could dig it out for us) and i seem to recall a lancia delta integrale body pictured in an old kyosho catalog i have in storage...i personally would kill for a nice old 911 turbo/931 body but they never made one...may as well put a 928 body on that wishlist too...i thought about trying to make bodies out of fiberglass using a clay mold but thats something for a very rainy day..ehehe

Redfox

12-18-2001, 02:30 AM

bukkake, that merc body looks pretty smick =]

i sure as hell wouldn't mind one of those jr xr2's if they're going cheap!!

i hate am's and i hate having to hold down the brake whilst tuning the car when it glitches!!

anywayz, back to the problem at hand, the shims that are included in the set, and the spare shim set that you suggested i buy, well they have the internal diameter slightly larger than the actual drive cup, and external diameter the same as the ball bearing. which means i can slip it right over the drive cup. You suggested that i should put the shims between the diff and the bearing, but i tried that, but there is no plastic part of the diff casing that it can sit on... so it just kinda hangs off the shaft part of the drive cup... so i put the shims in between the casing and the bearing. It seems to hold itself in place there nicely... and the three shims i put in there seem to stop the diff from moving left. Problem solved for the time being! Infact, with the new gears, and no shims, if i push the diff to the far left, you can hear the horrible sound of the gears not meshing nicely. So i think the shims r there to stay!!

I still have 2 shims left, and i will see if the front diff needs it... I hate takin apart the front cos it's so damn annoying to have to put back together again!!

Btw, that $53 FM transmitter sounds like a good deal!! ME WANT FM!!

Oh, and how much is a gallon again??? the first nitro i bought was at my LHS cos i couldn't be stuffed travelling 1/2hr to get it cheaper and they charged AU$23.95 a litre of 15%!! I got 2 litres of 16% today for $29...

What % nitro do you run in yours btw?

LAter pplz...

Chris

ecatbox

12-18-2001, 03:00 AM

whoops my mistake..sorry..should have actually looked instead of trusting my brain...

according to onlineconversion.com (very handy site)

1 gallon [US, liquid] = 3.785412 liter

im running 10% at the moment because they were out of the odonnell 20% i wanted...have to find a better local place...seems to run a little cooler and make about the same power so i guess i cant complain

Redfox

12-21-2001, 12:21 AM

Ok, i went to the local track a few dayz ago and i had a mad time with the landmax!! i luv powerslides around a track, i think it looks unreal!!
The first sorta problem i encountered was starting the engine after playing with the low speed needle on the previous run. THe thing is, i had set the lowspeed to a nice and even setting for the previous run that i did, and then when trying to restart after a refuel, the engine wouldn't start. I had to wind the needle back out to make it rich and then it'd start, then i could lean it out again. And i'm pretty sure it wasn't too lean in the first place, cos it was at the point where it wouldn't splutter between low speed and high speed...

Another prob i had was after some severe cornering and skidding on an asphalt surface, i lost a king pin for the front steering!! I now gotta dish out AU$14 for a new pack of 4 king pins! THat wasn't really a prob tho. LEsson learnt: don't stinge on threadlock!!

One thing i have noticed tho is that the motion of the car, when just pushin it back and forth on my carpet, has become quite restricted and there seems to be a lot of friction that wasn't there before!! I just rebuilt the rear diff and i know it's not that cos that is smooth as ever... i think the front diff is ok. It seems like the centre diff, or where the spur and pinion mesh... i don't mind too much, cos it still runs well, but it's dissapointing because where there's friction, there's a slight loss of performance... any suggestions??

LAter,

Chris

Redfox

12-21-2001, 12:24 AM

btw, i bought a piece of high density foam, out of which i shall construct a front bumper when i get back from the states. Should i buy the actual plastic part of the bumper or do you reckon it'd be ok for me to attempt to make it outta aluminium?! I'm pretty handy when it comes to metal shaping and i reckon i could make a decent bumper with it... i reckon the stock bumper on the landmax is a joke!! so much for protecting a US$80 body!!! it's a disgrace!!

=]

StephenB

12-21-2001, 01:56 AM

Redfox, if there's resistance/drag in the drivetrain, you should find it & fix it...don't run the car. First thing I'd check is the clutch bell---take the engine out & see if the clutch bell spins freely. The needle bearing might be gunked up or shot. While the engine is out of the car, roll the car on the ground & see if it still is binding.

Before you get too worried, make sure you have your brakes set correctly too. Drag brake (when the brakes are slightly applied at neutral throttle) will cause the car to feel as though it has drag in the drivetrain. If that's not the case, check each wheel for drag. Roll the car on the ground & then pick it up quickly---do all 4 wheels spin equally? Usually you can hunt the problem down from there. Best of luck :D

Redfox

12-21-2001, 08:00 AM

StephenB, thanks for the tip mate...

I did what you told me to do (rolling it then picking it up real fast), and i noticed that the front wheels keep spinning whereas the rear wheels kinda stop pretty quick... I have no idea what is causing this, althought the other day i did change the outer bevel gears on the rear diff cos they stripped. I put in 3 shims on the left hand side of the diff between the diff case and the ball bearing to keep the diff from moving too much to prevent it stripping itself... it wasn't totally shimmed up so it still moved enough and the gears seemed to mesh quite well... I put a bit of grease on the gears tho. Would that cause it to bind??
It also could be the centre diff or something around that. I might try taking out the long rear drive dogbone and see if the wheels still stop quickly...

=]

Redfox

12-21-2001, 08:20 AM

I just pulled off the whole rear diff and wheels... i rolled it along the ground and it runs extremely smoothly. I looked in the diff casing and there's a lot of sand and dirt in there. I'm gonna clean it out tomorrow, but i can't work out how that stuff got int there, cos it was screwed to the chassis plate pretty tightly!!

So the prob feels like it's definitely in the rear part of the centre diff. It feels like a lot of resistance is in there. It is quite dirty, but i wouldn't have thought dirt around there would cause too many probs. So i suppose i'm gonna have to take off the engine and the radio tray and clean and rebuild the whole centre diff and see if that fixes it!! I might buy some of the nitro contact cleaner spray to clean the car every so often...

=]

ecatbox

12-31-2001, 02:00 AM

<post xmas lazy bump>

got the carbon fiber a few days ago...its gorgeous...two biggish sheets (25"x18" each and 3mm thick) and it really is amazing how stiff it is...its VERY hard to flex the whole sheet even a bit...definitely a lot stiffer then the stock 2.5mm poopluminum...and i think i figured out my bracing stuff...

in other exciting holiday news, got a PS2 with GT3 and MGS2 for xmas (which explains the tremendous disappearance of my spare time recently) and a dandy 32MB memory card for the camera...

more updates soon

hfracing

01-01-2002, 03:07 PM

Sorry i havent been here lately, but i have sold my higly modified Landmax, so that i could afford to get a new 1/10 fuel touring car, and a ritchey modified engine .... I am trying to defend my position as one of the top drivers in this class here in norway, and i needed some new stuff :(

But, i have made the videoclip, and i will post a link here as soon as i get it finished...
Too bad we couldnt put the camera in the HF2 car, because of snow on the track(didnt want to ruin a $2000 camera while using it in an RC car, the camera isnt even mine :)
so, i filmed some slideing around etc.
i just have to edit the clip a bit....
i come by here some times, just because i like the landmax..
has anyone else modified them hard ?? MUST SEE PICS!!!
hope the pic of my car inspired someone to modify these cars, as they ROCK when modified(bigger engine is most important...)

HF :rolleyes:

psykomantis

01-04-2002, 06:33 AM

Hey all, good posts, I have been reading them and have decided on the Landmax2, only prob is TowerHobbies is confusing me. Do you guys know what the Tower stock number is for the Landmax2? :confused:

And great review StephenB. I enjoyed reading it.

ecatbox

01-04-2002, 01:17 PM

the peugeot landmax2

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXANJ3&P=0

the subaru

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXANJ2&P=0

the rest are all landmax 1s

psykomantis

01-04-2002, 08:03 PM

Thank you very much:)

ecatbox

01-06-2002, 08:10 PM

no problem...tower is weird in how they categorize stuff...they do have the most useful website though...

i have no rc related news to report due to the fact that i got a copy of "grand theft auto 3" which is most likely the funnest and funniest videogame ever (and probably not coincidentally, BANNED IN AUSTRALIA) so i now have way more games than free time...

on a chassis related note, i am having a hell of a time finding 3 and 4mm countersink bits...maybe harald can offer some suggestions...

psykomantis

01-08-2002, 01:06 AM

Just a comment, yes, GTA3 is one of the best games ive played, so much fun. Plus you get to drive an r/c car in it too, lol:D

StephenB

01-16-2002, 02:23 AM

Thanks psykomantis, glad to hear you liked the writeup :D

RC HICKOCK

01-16-2002, 12:59 PM

Hi SB
RCCA 's Peter Vieira reviewed the NEW Kyosho Inferno 7.5 "Sports" & "NEW GS21R". (Feb 2002)
Vieira highlighted several features and largely praised this newest Kyosho offering, he pointed out that the "NEW" GS21R, inspite of the NEW head upgrade, still overheats. "touching 350 degrees"
Rather than GO THERE w/ the SPORTS, a way to "Solve the overheating problem once and for all" is to purchase the 7.5 less the "NEW" GS21R engine.
While many "inexpensive" and "budget" 21 pullstart engines exist please, could someone suggest which ones would be largely a "bolt in" replacement? It would also be VERY useful to current Landmax owners, if your staff @ Air Age RCN and RCCA could include a "required" parts list for the alternative, "budget" power plant. (clutch parts, exhaust manifold and engine mounts, etc.)
PS. While the OS line of 21 engines are excellent, I would discount them as a "budget" option.

Thank you

StephenB

01-16-2002, 11:23 PM

Hickock, not totally sure what you're saying, but I'll try to answer it anyway :p

As for a "required" list of parts for a new engine...there's much more to it than simply writing a short list of parts. It'll depend on what engine you want to replace the GS21 with, as well as what style of clutch you'd like to use, AND what brand of clutch system you'd like to use AND if you're going pullstart or non-pullstart. Usually, all you'll require is the flywheel (which will include clutch nut), the clutch itself, shims, clutch bell, and new motor mounts. If you use Fioroni's clutch system, however, the list will be far different than if you use Kyosho's 2-shoe clutch. It changes still if you use Kyosho's 3-shoe clutch. See what I'm gettin' at? ;)

Finally, I'm not sure what you mean when you say "the OS line is a budget replacement." From your message, it seems that you want a *budget* pull-start replacement for the Kyosho GS21 engine. As far as I'm concerned, OS's .21RG pullstart is the nicest available pullstart 21 engine on the market---if for nothing else than its excellent carb.

RC HICKOCK

01-17-2002, 04:01 AM

SB
Thanks for your response, I'll be more specific.
To install an OFNA FORCE 21 w/pull start into a Landmax, what aftermarket parts are needed to complete the installation?
What SPECFIC COMPONENTS are required to adapt an OFNA or PICCO or say a MEGATECH 21 to work in the 7.5 Inferno or Landmax? Don't forget MFG's part numbers
These engines are budget alturnatives to the more expensive OS engines.
Thanks Again

PS. This would make a great follow up to
"Is this why they call it Inferno?"

ecatbox

01-17-2002, 04:31 PM

i cant vouch for the accuracy of these part numbers since i just looked em up on tower...but they should at least get you started in the right direction...

landmax 2 adjustable engine mount:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXVD25 $10

the little plate that joins the mounts to the chassis and allows setting gear mesh:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXVD24 $10

and you will most likely need an sg style clutch nut...another couple bucks

course you can use anything you want if you dont mind drilling a hole or two...if you wanna see a real nightmare, take a look at kyoshos kit for fitting the big .40ci 4 strokes into a landmax...

StephenB

01-17-2002, 05:43 PM

Hickock, ahhhh I see what you're saying now. Didn't quite make it through in your 1st post ;) You're looking for an engine other than the OS RG b/c the others are more affordable? Give me some time & I'll see if I can't put some parts together.

RC HICKOCK

01-17-2002, 05:54 PM

Bukaake

Bless ya for your efforts and trouble..
What I was attempting to illicit from RCCA & Nitro was a detailed engine swap article that would explain the finer points of installing an inexpensive .21 like the Ofna or Megatech in the 7.5 Inferno or Landmax.
OS makes some of the finest 2 strokes mills available. Period. But they command top dollar as well.
What I was trying to get accross is that an OS 21 is NOT a "Budget" or "Low Budget" power plant. The NEW Kyosho GS21R sells @ Tower for $185.00. I will not use the GS21R based on what RCCA's Peter Veiria said in his article,(Feb 2002 RCCA)

All the Best

RC HICKOCK

01-18-2002, 12:11 AM

Stephen B

It's my understanding that Kyosho 1/8 scale buggies (Inferno) and rally cars (Landmax) require engines with a "Pilot Shaft".
Certainly there must be someone besides O.S. (and Kyosho) that make these "Pilot Shaft" configured engines?
If not, how can one "adapt" a "non pilot shaft" engine for use in the Inferno/Landmax vehicles, and what parts need to be purchased to make a non pilot shaft engine work in these cars?
Ofna Force P4, Duratrax Torq 21, Hyper 21. Megatech has two .21's with the pull start feature. All of these look like decent "budget" substitutions for the GS21R. & without the expense of the OS.
Stephen, I appreciate your efforts to answer my questions re this project. Know that there are a lot of people who'll find this research helpful.

Thanks Again

ecatbox

01-18-2002, 04:20 AM

for what its worth, heres a pic of my hotrod landmax 1 with the adjustable mounts, the landmax 2 setup looks to work similarly...

http://***********/gp20/misc/mine004.jpg

the "non pilot shaft" you refer to is called an "SG type" which has the pilot shaft as an actual part of the crankshaft as opposed to being part of the clutch nut...this is typically what the fancier engines have (ofna/picco, ofna force and hyper 21 engines, OS racing engines etc)...you can see the difference here:

www.ace-hobbies.com/Engines/clutch/index.html

bonus pics:

landmax and carbon fiber panels which will soon comprise its chassis:

http://***********/gp20/misc/mine005.jpg

ecatbox

01-18-2002, 04:39 AM

SG crank:
http://***********/gp20/misc/SG.jpg

Threaded:
http://***********/gp20/misc/THREADED.jpg

StephenB

01-18-2002, 12:47 PM

Great posts Bukkake!!! Those pics tell the story better than words can.

If you get a threaded crank engine (non pilot shaft), you can get the screw-on pilot shaft adaptor from Kyosho.

Hickock, I'm not trying to sound like an OS dealer here, but the difference in prices you'll see between an OS RG-X ($170) and any of the other engines you're talking about (roughly $120) does NOT outweigh, in my opinion, the quality difference between the engines. You say that the OS is too expensive; well for $50 more, you'll get an engine with the best carb on the market. That alone is worth the extra dough---you'll be happier with a better running, more consisitant engine. Just a thought.

RC HICKOCK

01-18-2002, 10:30 PM

Bukkake and Stephen B.

Those pictures really do the job. A BIG THANKS to the both of you!
That Subaru looks just like the box photo. (is that a 2 speed you're running?) What kind of speed do you get with that setup
Stephen, do you have a part # for this "clutch" adaptor you mentioned?
I absolutely agree with you in reference to OS engines it's just that by the time I'm through buying engine, pipe, manifold and engine mounts etc. I've spent another $260. (If I run OS)..
My idea was to go with an inexpensive sport engine and have enough green to get the 2 speed as well?
I must thank you both again, I really appreciate it!!

NICE CAT TOO...

littlej72

01-20-2002, 11:15 AM

How do I get my OS .21 RG-X (p) to fit on my landmax, i have tried all kinds of things and i think i can make it line up but i have a 2 speed and the shaft is too short to accomidate the additional gear, if anyone has any advice please e-mail me at littlej72@hotmail.com thanks a ton!

ecatbox

01-21-2002, 02:12 AM

i would just relocate the mounting holes in the plates a little bit forward...also moving the engine a tiny bit forward and increasing cornering ability a tiny bit as a bonus...

i think on my project cars i am going to use a little cleaner mounting system than this plate and block nonsense...the ofna monster pirate mounts look pretty trick for instance (blue aluminum with relatively big heatsink fins) and look like you can mount damn near anything in em...

speaking of monster pirate parts, i should be getting a set of the shocks for one this week (another ebay special, like $35 shipped) and i think i'll put them on my "basher" landmax...

thanks for the kitty compliments senor hickock..shes a good cat though shes neurotic and pukes a lot...

hopefully i will make some progress soon and have some more pics...

ecatbox

01-21-2002, 02:30 AM

knew i forgot something...

yep thats a 2 speed...probably do 60-70mph easy as it sits while still being undergeared enough to audilbly shred all 4 tires when you punch it (you know the sound...KRRFFFFFF eheh)...im scared to do a top speed run until i put in the fm stuff and a failsafe...i also have a neat digital speedo to put in there eventually...

Stephen, do you have a part # for this "clutch" adaptor you mentioned?

the one hes talking about is the one that comes with the kit...would fit the P4 in those pics i posted...and the 2 speed kit comes with its own anyway...

littlej72

01-21-2002, 07:42 AM

How did you make up for the lack of shaft to support the additional length of 2nd gear, i think other than that i have it figured out.

Thanks.:javascript:smilie(':confused:')
confusedconfused:

ecatbox

01-21-2002, 09:04 AM

sorry, i didnt mean to confuse ya...i misunderstood the problem...you are saying that after putting on the flywheel and clutch nut etc there isnt enough crankshaft left to go out to the end of the clutch bell...about how much longer does it need to be?

littlej72

01-21-2002, 09:38 PM

About i don't know a half inch, maybe im way off its about the length of the additional gear on the clutch bell, if ya know what i mean, if not ill send in some pics and show you. I really appreciate your help. thanks a bunch.

ecatbox

01-23-2002, 08:11 AM

not a problem...i know how it is to have a toy that you cant play with yet...

well as i see it, theres a few options...

1. i believe the rg is also available with the threaded crank so you could buy the threaded replacement and use that...needless to say, this would be the expensive method...

2. figure out some sort of spacer arrangement...something like a little piece of shaft held on with an extra long screw (the one that normally retains the clutch bell)...it just occurred to me that kyosho may make such a part...i swear ive seen a "clutch bell guide" or some such nonsense on tower...i will check that out in a sec and get back to you

and 3. this is not recommended especially until we get a second opinion from stephenb or somebody but you could always cut off the end of the shaft and use the thread-on clutchnut that came with the 2 speed kit (after eyeballing it to make sure it will get you as far as you need to go of course)...lemme check on that #2 thing first...

ecatbox

01-23-2002, 08:42 AM

ok here is the part...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXT895&P=7

ecatbox

01-23-2002, 08:48 AM

found a pic of the part...tell me if it looks like what you need...not the greatest quality pic but i enlarged it a little

http://***********/gp20/misc/bsw59.jpg

edit: pic fix and note: bsw-59 must be used with the sg crank engines

littlej72

01-23-2002, 07:08 PM

You guys (especially bukkake) are great, by all my technical no how (most of which is on big cars or jet ski's) this would be the best solution to my problem. The cone would effectively self center the clutch bell into the inner race of the bearing in the same way the flywheel is self centered on the shaft. I can't thank you enough, ive had the worst week and if this works it's all good. I guess there is no replacement for experience. well if you ever have a broken acura or jet ski let me know.

littlej72

01-23-2002, 07:09 PM

one other thing, the clutch holding pins or dowels are super long, i assume its ok to just trim them to proper length with a cut off wheel? sound reasonable?

StephenB

01-23-2002, 07:15 PM

Sorry guys---been busy the last few days. Sorry I couldn't answer the questions but it looks like everyone has helped out :)

ecatbox

01-23-2002, 09:51 PM

sure...the dremel is your friend..ehehe...just be sure not to take off TOO much...

glad i could help out...i just hope tower has at least 3 of those BSW59s in stock cause i bought two hyper 21s today...i should really see a doctor about my ebay addiction but i keep spending my money on parts...

littlej72

01-24-2002, 06:27 PM

Thanks for the help, why do they make em so darn long the clutch holding pins? and I suffer from that same addiction, but they say 2 drinks a day is ok, so 2 items off e-bay a day seems fair? hehehe by the way how are those hyper engines, they are by ofna if im not mistaken? thanks

ecatbox

01-25-2002, 11:13 AM

eheh depends on the two items i reckon...

the hyper 21 is actually made by ho bao like about half of ofnas stuff...from everything i hear they are great little engines...i will let you guys know how it compares to the ofna picco...they are rated about the same power wise so we shall see...they have an interesting little turbine deal inside the case for "better fuel nebulization"..ehehh...

www.hobao.com/english/pout/hb21/hyper21.htm

are you using the flywheel that came with the 2 speed kit or some other one? i'm assuming that one works with an sg engine but it didnt occur to me to check until just now...damn these brainfarts

littlej72

01-25-2002, 07:34 PM

Cool, lemme know how they compare to an os 21 rg-x , no the 2 speed flywheel wont work it is for the stock engine which has a smaller shaft than the os.

ecatbox

01-26-2002, 06:22 AM

will do...

check this out...not technically a landmax, but the father of it...and probably the most coveted landmax-compatible body set...out of production for years now...

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1696101676

odd thing is, i had never seen the chassis but have been planning to set up my 2 speed car the same way...short shocks on the back etc...weird

littlej72

01-26-2002, 08:48 AM

thats pretty awsome, i guess that platform has been around a while i have seen just that engine on ebay as well, and gotta love the old bump starter! by the way when i finish all this carp with my car if i ever do i plan to take a bunch of pics with my digi cam and post a how to article to my site, ill give a link once i finish.

ecatbox

01-27-2002, 11:45 AM

sounds good...i need to get in gear and do the same thing...

yeah the chassis of that thing is the same only different...i emailed the guy asking him his reserve and for more pics (with my thus far imaginary site in mind)...i think i would pay two hunnert for an unpainted 959 body...the detail on it makes my tentacles quiver...

ran my 2 speed yesterday...got the picco and shift point pretty much dialed now...its a wonderful thing...it can cruise at probably 25-30 sounding like a weedwhacker at work then squeeze it a little more and listen to it hit second...and then stand on it...then get on the brakes real fast..ehehe...it takes off so hard its scary...the neighbors fear me

Landmax NUTTER

02-07-2002, 10:10 AM

Here is my ride (pretty stock!!) NOTE: annoying dog!!!

ecatbox

02-08-2002, 12:09 PM

hey looks good...you did a nice job on the body by all appearances...think i see window tint too...and the bear cub in the background adds amibience...eheh..hes cute

the toyota body looks pretty snazzy...didn't notice before really, but it looks like its fits JUST over the chassis...prolly the best one for offroading since it has no front overhang to speak of...hmmm

landmax news: not a lot though i may have a line on nice 3.2mm titanium landmax chassis (chassii?) if anybody else is interested in one...i registered a certain landmax related url and it is now pointing to a blank page...i verified 2.2" truck/buggy tires fit fine on the landmax 2.6" rims (as long as they are not TOO tall) and i placed my first tower hobby order...about $62US total, havent received it yet but they shipped it that evening...and because it was all kyosho parts shipping was only $6 for usps priority...not bad...more updates to come...

and oh yeah, that 959 sold for $800...jkhwugkatu hgrvk

Landmax NUTTER

02-08-2002, 12:53 PM

Thanks 4 the compliments BUKKAKE
I am planning on getting kyosho MP-6 wheels on there!!(with slicks)
My friend has don'it, and with a modified manifold it is possable.
The wheels retail at about £15.00 a pair and the tires £17.50 a pair.
A bloke with a T-MAXX has just bought a inferno MP-6 and got a set of these wheels (brand new) with it . I have bought them off him for £5.00 (all four!!!)
Only got to get the tires now HE HE:p

ecatbox

02-08-2002, 01:14 PM

ehehe cool...just be careful...even with a stock motor that thing will have some crazy top speed with those big wheels...

btw i have a nice set of fioroni front knuckles for an mp5/6/7.5 coming and will report if they are usable with the landmax carriers or not...worst case as i see it is i have to get some mp5 carriers and fit THOSE to the a arms (or vice versa really)...the things are supposed to be nearly indestructible though...also curious to see if the new type landmax lower a-arms etc can be used...maybe some nice person will give us the part numbers...all i can find from tower is the front..

Landmax NUTTER

02-09-2002, 06:57 AM

Hey there bukkake
I wonder if you can help me.
I am just wondering if you have had this problem and can help!!

At my local track last sunday i noticed that a lot of neat fuel was coming from the exaust, i thought nothing of it but when i tried to start her during the week she would not start.

Realising that both the glo plug and glo starter were dead i changed the f6 glo plug for a f3 glo plug and she started. Well thats not the hlf of it, She sounded like a cement mixer!!
And the throttle response was VERY slow and acted like it was'nt warmed up even after two tanks!!!!!
Once i got high revs out of her the throttle seemed to stick but as far as i could see it was not.
The next problem is the two tanks that i run through it went straight through the exaust in minutes. This may be my problem but i don't know how to rectify it

hope i have not confused you
Hope someone can help me.:rolleyes:

littlej72

02-10-2002, 08:17 PM

Sorry for the long waylay(sp) from the group... anyway I got her up and running after rigging the heck out of the clutch bell, mounting plate mahem, etc.I just ordered a high dollar sony digital camcorder so maybe i can make some sweet movies when it gets here. I do sorta have a "minor problem" I was breaking in the OS engine in my court(my gosh that thing is BADDD!) I am used to mostly 12's and 15's and this engine blew me away. apparently it blew something else away as it blew a few teeth off of my 2 speed tranny's plastic gears. Anyway I need either an upgraded replacement or just a replacement to get this thing back in action. I cant wait! I was looking and it almost looks like it happend from the big motor flexing the chassis, I really dont know what happend (all i know is this engine blows the GS21 out of the water) I have set gear mesh on my t-maxx and rs4 racer with no problems before but something happend on this one and geez it was like brapppppppppppppppppppp!!! Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! sorry just thought i d give everone the idea here.

So... if anyone knows part #'s or anything for the 2 speed trans gears, or an upgrade that might fit lemme know! thanks guys and hopefully i can get some time to spend on my website.

StephenB

02-11-2002, 12:04 AM

Landmax NUTTER---nice job on the body, but CUT THE BODY POSTS!!! ;)

ecatbox

02-11-2002, 04:24 PM

littlej - heres a link for all the 2 speed parts...you'll see the spur gears a little ways down...$17...not too bad...i haven't had any problems with em so im guessing maybe it ate a rock or something...especially if you use the slip of paper gear mesh technique...glad you got to have a little fun with it first...ehehe

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p.pgm?I=KYOC6172

nutter - can i assume this is your first nitro car? it sounds like its time for you to learn the joy of tuning...the engine tuning guide that came with the kit is a good place to start...theres also a really good article here courtesy of our pal steve pond:

http://www.rcnitro.com/articles/super_tune.asp

i will give you a quick rundown too cause i don't want you to get too crazy with the needles yet and hurt anything...

when an engine is spitting a lot of raw fuel out the exhaust pipe, its an indication thats its running very rich...this means theres a lot more fuel going in than it is able to burn...

important note: you always want to have the engine running SOMEWHAT rich...you should always have a nice trail of smoke on acceleration and a little fuel spitting at idle...having said that, the closer to the ideal fuel/air ratio it runs, the more power it will make...in fact, it will run the very best of all just before it self destructs from not having enough lubrication...since these engines get their oil from the fuel, it is our job to regulate the fuel/air ratio with the carburetor and keep a balance between performance/power and keeping the engine cool and lubricated...

when the engine is getting not quite enough fuel it will get very hot, sound kind of "tinny", and most likely seize up or break something inside due to lack of oil...your job is to try and never let that happen...

with the basic theory you should be able to understand how it is done in practice (and what you are doing while tuning)...your gs 21 engine has two needle valves which regulate the delivery of fuel at low and high rpm ranges...called the low and high end needles oddly enough...the high end needle on your engine is the black plastic knob-like deal with the knurled edges so you can turn it with your fingers and sticks straight up when installed in the car...this needle valve also is the "master" for the fuel system...meaning making adjustments to the high end needle also changes the low end performance since the high end needle also controls how much fuel is ultimately entering the engine...ie: if the high end needle is set too lean, adjustments to the low-end needle wont make any difference...this is why you always tune the high end first...

basic procedure:start the car and keep it running while it warms up for a minute or two...then get it on the pavement and start making passes up and down the road, being very easy on the car, listening to the sound and increasing rpm very smoothly and gradually (no punching or blipping the throttle)...after a few minutes of passes back and forth, you can start tuning the high end needle for top speed...you will notice that the car will be very sort of farty and unresponsive as it gets into the upper rpms (it should also be smoking heavily or spitting quite a lot)...by turning the high end needle to the right in small increments (think hours on a clock), you reduce the amount of fuel that is going in at the higher rpm...so you basically want to keep making passes back and forth, making small adjustments to that needle until the engine can get up to full speed...there is no mistaking the sound and you will definitely know it when you hear it...music to the ears

after you have the top end set, you can adjust the low-end needle...this is mounted horizontally on the carb close to where the throttle arm attaches to the little ball and requires a small flathead screwdriver to adjust...i generally start by turning it counter-clockwise (richening the low-end mixture) until the idle starts to bog a bit (just to ensure its rich) and can start turning it clockwise to improve low end performance...turning this needle clockwise (always in the small increments) until it launches from a standstill without bogging and with a nice puff of that lovely toxic smoke...a couple handy tips i have picked up over time:

quick low end check: pinch the fuel line right by the carb
if it cuts off almost instantly - way too lean
if it idles normally for a few seconds, then revs up a bit and runs for another few seconds before cutting off - a bit too rich (but probably best for longevity and cool running)
if rpms increase almost immediately and it runs a few seconds then cuts off - almost ideal setting for power

also, when everything is set properly, after a blast up and down the street, the engine should idle at a higher rpm than normal for 10-20 seconds then drop back to normal...this is just from the extra fuel that built up inside the motor during that blast of acceleration and indicates there is a good amount of oil in there and your engine is well protected...and about 10-20 seconds after that, the idle should drop a little more as more extra fuel starts to "load up" inside the crankcase...

THE SPIT TEST! check your engines temperature frequently, especially if you are new to the whole tuning thing...you can get all sorts of electronic accessories but there is a free way...

put a little glob of spit on the top of the head...it should start to evaporate almost immediately (but never sizzle) and the length of time it takes to disappear gives you tuning info

under 4 seconds - too hot and too lean...adjust the high end needle out
about 5 seconds - just about right for performance
6+ seconds - running very cool, good for break-in and playing around

keep in mind that the engine may need 5 minutes of hard running to reach it's REAL operating temp...so you want to take your time and make very sure you keep it rich until its fully warmed up...once its all the way and you get it dialed in, it will be able to run all day long and not overheat...just keep pulling it over and topping off the tank and you are in for a day of fun...

the only other thing on the carb to worry about is the idle screw...you will generally not have to adjust this much if at all...its the smallish black screw with a spring on it...it just pushes the slide open or closed by degrees and allows a little more or less air in there...useful if you notice your car cuts off when you hit the brakes etc...important thing to note here...you want to adjust the idle screw to suit the low-end screw and not the other way around...but if you are making big adjustments to it to try and get your idle under control, the low-end screw is probably set wrong...a low end setting that is too lean will make it idle higher and a too rich setting will make it idle lower, or stall...

just make small adjustments and make sure you've always got some smoke from the exhaust and you'll have the hang of it in no time...it's more of a "feel" thing and is not hard to get decent at...let me know if you have any more questions and read that article i linked at the beginning of this long and nonsensical post...and this one too: (the pictures alone can help you understand how the carb works)

http://www.rcnitro.com/articles/carburetor.asp

generic side note: got my stuff from tower saturday...color me impressed...everything is there and you can't beat their turnaround time...

ecatbox

02-11-2002, 04:37 PM

p.s. littlej - make sure to use loctite on all the motor mounting screws and torque em down good after you set the mesh...chassis flex shouldn't be a real factor just runnin up and down smooth ground...

littlej72

02-11-2002, 05:24 PM

Thanks for the input, if you find some metal gears let me know, as a lot of the parts for the 7.5 fit ive found. I'll be looking myself I dont know for a fact but it does apear to flex a little like the engine torques a bit, im going to pull it all apart replace the gears, set gear mesh, locktite and try again. Theres probably something im missing but I'm sure ill find out, do these cars typically have a bit of a whine to them, mine sounds like, i dont know almost electric when its cruising around, i dont know what the heck it is and it may be normal.

ecatbox

02-11-2002, 05:35 PM

i can't hear the gear noise running the car no...sounds like yours are tight to me...should make a smooth meshing noise and spin freely...i can give my my car a quick push backward and the center diff and clutch bell will spin together for like 5 seconds (with the engine off)...use a piece of notebook paper between the two to set the mesh and it should be just right...

littlej72

02-11-2002, 06:49 PM

It makes sort of a whiring sound but everything spins freely, i am pretty good with the gear mesh and typically the paper method is what i use. If i roll the car back wards (last time i had it runnin ok) it would roll back for about a foot and stop abruptly. I just thought this was the one way in the two speed or something? i dont know what the heck is goin on with this heap, i may have more than one problem.

Landmax NUTTER

02-12-2002, 07:43 AM

Wow bukkake

Damn lot of writing there!!:D
On Thursday of last week i rang my LHS with my problem to see if they could help me, they said yeah no prob bring it down tomorrow. So i did and they said "sorry can't do it today" after travelling 30 mins on a bus you can imagine how PI$$ED of i was.

After completly spripping my car down i found the problem, The little grub screw in the side of the carb was missing letting air directly into the carb. This explained all of my problem! She was still running rough but then i come on to this site and saw your info. Wow it worked fine after that!!!!
I went to my local track and had a great day of running--Untilthe mixture needle became really loose and on every corner would change the lean/rich setting.

And the brand new exuast the i had bought the day before SPLIT.

OH WELL

thanx for help bukkake , ur a star(s)

ecatbox

02-12-2002, 02:44 PM

eheeh no problem...hopefully it was helpful...maybe i'll straighten that drivel up a bit and put it on the website or something...

glad you found the problem...loctite that sucker and also the little screw that holds the ball end on the carb...if that one comes off while yer running, you got PROBLEMS..ehehee

littlej - not sure quite what to tell you...i just meant i could push the car backward with it shut off and the one way lets the center diff freewheel for a few sec...there is a little bit of a whine from the gears meshing but nothing anybody could hear with the engine running...maybe try popping the motor out again and see how smoothly the thing rolls on the floor...should be no binding or anything...but you know this...let me know what you find out...

Landmax NUTTER

02-13-2002, 05:16 PM

The little screw that is attaching the servo bar to the carb has already come of once!!!
Luckily i was going round a right hand corner so it slid down to the rightend stoping the car!

Bit scary though when u think what could of happened

Landmax NUTTER

littlej72

02-13-2002, 07:15 PM

Alright guys, I think maybe this is an easy one, I have the regular instructions for the car, but my car has a 2 speed that was on it when i got it, i am fairly competent mechanically so worse comes to worse Ill just rip it appart, but I was wondering if anyone has the manual for the 2 speed, if not where can i get it? I'm going to get a set of bearings for the car, new 2 speed gears, and whatever else i find broken on the car. sounds good? thanks ! (ps. my digital camcorder is at ups waiting for me! woo hoo!)

littlej72

02-13-2002, 07:22 PM

I was browsing around tower and i found two different sets of gears, i found the set you showed me and another set?
one is the:

LXAVW7

the other is the

LXV360

the one costs about double of the other and the specs are

43 and 46 tooth on one
and
50 and 53 tooth for the other, I cant tell what i have since all the teeth are gone, so what do i need and what would work/ be the best?

ecatbox

02-13-2002, 09:26 PM

you can get the documentation from kyoshos site actually...giant hideous scans but legible...look at the bottom of this page

www.kyosho.com/manuals/index.html

i will get a better scan of the instructions (and kit manual) later...i can never get any of their pdf's to work anyway even after installing the asian font pack deal...whatever

LXV360 is the replacement set for the landmax 1, LXAVW7
is the replacement set for the new 2 speed on the landmax 2 (which is the mp7.5 based one)...cheaper is better

littlej72

02-14-2002, 07:33 PM

I gotcha, i think im figuring this thing out, as far as the 2 speed, its finger should it have some sort of resistance or does it always sorta flop around?

ecatbox

02-16-2002, 05:36 PM

the little finger should be held in once you have the little ball and spring and set screw combo back in place...you'll see it "retract" as you tighten the set screw down but be careful not to tighten it too much...i can pull the thing out pretty easy with a fingernail when its in the neighborhood...im hoping you didnt lose any of those parts...

littlej72

02-16-2002, 07:11 PM

I havnt taken that appart yet its just sitting next to the car, i was just lookin at it and how it works and noticed the little arm swings pretty free, really no resistace coming out. I havnt dissasembled it though.

ecatbox

02-16-2002, 11:20 PM

well the setscrew that adjusts the shift point goes in that hole that is set at an angle...and it has a tiny spring and a tiny ball behind it...you can see the ball pressing on the end of the finger (hopefully)...and take note of the way the hub is oriented relative to how the transmission spins...the finger is set up so when it spins up fast enough, it comes out with enough force to sort of wedge itself against the pin and voila, second gear...

its really cool how they work...that mechanism + that one way bearing in the 1st gear hub = one sweet piece of mechanical engineering...

littlej72

02-17-2002, 11:17 AM

Ok, ill check it out, yeah it is a pretty neat idea. really not too complicated either.

ecatbox

02-23-2002, 09:11 PM

hopefully answered your 2 speed question here:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=73065

if not, heres the basic rundown on how to adjust it for the record...

1. get the car warmed up and tuned so it can reach maximum rpm
2. you always want to shut the car off before adjusting...for safety and to facilitate steps 3 and 4
3. get the adjustment hole in the black plastic part of the 2 speed where you can get to it and hold it there with your finger while you...
4. roll the car forward or backward (or just hold one front/back wheel and turn the other) until the hole for the adjusting screw (which is the one set in at an angle) is accessible...turning this screw in makes it shift later and turning it out makes it shift sooner
5. start the car and check your adjustment
6. repeat 2-5 until it works perfectly or you are sick of fawking with it

note to all: just make sure you don't crank down on that screw too much or you will crush the little spring inside the 2 speed assembly...this is a Bad Thing™

other notes:

i have scanned the manuals and documentation for the landmax kit (including the engine parts/tuning stuff) and for the 2 speed and adjustable motor mount...just need to shrink em a little and upload...this should be helpful to fellow ebayers since those people don't ever seem to include it...i have bought 3 landmaxii off ebay and got a grand total of one set of paperwork...

made ANOTHER tower order...bunch of misc. stuff and i splurged a bit and got my skyline body too...this is the month to do it anyway with their coupon things...

the parts list should be done soon...trying to finish organizing it by category (bodies/wheels, drivetrain, diff parts, suspension parts etc...)

and last but not least, i picked up a PORSCHE 959 (yaaay!)...$321 shipped off the 'bay and its in good shape...missing one or two small things (servo arms, linkage etc) but the body is in great shape and there is not a scratch on the chassis...amazing...
vintage os RX-B also included...looks new and has great compression but i can't start it because i don't have a starter box...

i have found out that there were two versions of this car made...version one was built off the ofna pirate M1 chassis (of all things) and even says PIRATE on the front bulkhead...came in a black box

version two was later (duh) and was built off the inferno/landmax chassis we all know and love but used the regular length inferno a-arms and etc...came in a white box

i believe both had the same body (3 piece design w/ front and rear clips and lots of detail pieces) though they did have different rims (the ofna one even has very clever fake brake calipers)

a slightly later car also using the same inferno chassis was the nissan calsonic skyline...i have some nice pics of one stolen from an ebay auction

all of these cars are also about 2" wider than a regular landmax due to the longer a-arms...

*edited to add info*

ecatbox

02-23-2002, 09:30 PM

p.s. i spread misinformation earlier in this thread before i knew better...the landmax 1 is not based on the mp5, its an inferno dx II with shorter a-arms...this is not a bad thing and some MP5 parts are still compatible...the landmax 2 is based on the mp7.5 sports and all the parts cost more anyway...

i am now gonna go back through here and fix some of that since i would rather be a revisionist than wrong (ehehe) and i gotta fix those broken pic links too...

ok all fixed...will post some pics of my growing pile of hobby related paraphenalia soon...and that part list...

ecatbox

03-01-2002, 01:16 PM

nobodies interested and nobody cares...so sad...

heres a cool article and video anyway

http://www.rcnitro.com/articles/kyosho_lmx.asp

"high res" wmv

http://videos.radiocontrolzone.com/kyosho_landmax_nwh.zip

p.s. props to oldphart for attracting my attention to it in nitro forum...

ecatbox

03-01-2002, 11:49 PM

selling your landmax on ebay without telling me? FOR SHAME

EDIT EDIT: two hunnert bucks...shame i was sleeping

littlej72

03-07-2002, 07:23 PM

Sorry I should have posted to the group, I figured it was best to get rid of it to the general public, I dunno.... I will miss it, I just have no one else around here who has that kinda thing and no one to race as it rags out 1/10 scl car before it shifts to second gear and the true racing 1/8's tear it up so it was really not falling into any of these classes, I should have gotten more for it, I agree, but I had to cut my losses, I spent so much just getting the os motor to fit, It had to end, i figured out what chewed up the gears(the motor screws on the adapters were loose. Alas I'm shipping it out tommorow, and buying a TC3 nitro as I have been eyeing them for a while. thanks for all your help guys and your true hobbieist(sp) a lot of these guys forgot this was supposed to be fun! but it seems we, you'll are in it for the fun and thats great. anyway thanks again and did you all check out the article in car action on the landmax! thats a badd car!

Later all'

Littlej

ecatbox

03-10-2002, 07:22 PM

eheh just givin you some flak...shame you had to sell it but you'll have fun with the NTC3...i'd kinda like one myself...

and yeah, that super shops landmax is pretty coo...i think mine are cooler though...ehehe

littlej72

03-10-2002, 07:32 PM

Thanks for the understanding guys, it's so hard for me to get parts for the darn thing and really I have no one to play with, hehe. I ordered a Nitro TC3 kit new, I have a new JR XR-2 to put on it, and the new RB .12x.....its a crazy engine 5 port 12 what will they come up with next, I also came across a new starter box (gs racing) and all kinds of new stuff for it. I can't wait until it arrives. I'll still watch over the forum and who knows maybe I'll get another landmax(you never know) I just wish it would make up it's mind on road, or off road. hehe thanks for all your help guys and I'll be watching.

ecatbox

03-11-2002, 12:16 AM

eheh thats why i got two...one for retarded speed pavement only and one to abuse...

if you start gettin the upgrade bug for the ntc3, check out our buddy rcboyz on ebay...i notice he is selling all the carbon goodies etc for it now pretty cheap...(relatively speaking anyway)

littlej72

03-11-2002, 07:07 AM

Thanks I'll check that out!

Redfox

04-13-2002, 03:50 AM

Hey there ppl!! =]

I haven't been to the forums for so damn long!!! Anywayz i'm glad to see that my thread has actually been of some use to everyone!

I have a question that needs answering about my landmax. As you might recall i got it at the end of Nov last year. It ran fine for ages, but more recently i have been having trouble with the engine. Most of the time it will start up from not having been run for a while and it would run perfectly for about 3-5 mins and then cut out. Sometimes it gets pretty hot but generally i keep my eye on the needle settings so that it doesn't get too hot but runs very well. I just can't work out why it just quits after about 5 mins. Then the next problem is that it won't restart hot!! I have to wait about 10 mins for it to totally cool down and then maybe... just maybe will i be able to start it again. I am getting sick and tired of yanking the pull start and i really want a starter box!! is there a chance that it's lost compression already after such a short time?! i have been taking good care of it so i can't understand how that is possible.
You know when you pull the starter after a long run, the engine just doesn't seem to catch?? It feels very loose and generally feels like it does when you take out the glow plug and pull the starter. Does this indicate it's loose? Obviously this is as a result of the heat. But even with this looseness why doesn't the damn thing start? I would tend to think it might have to do with the fuel vapourising before it gets into the chamber because of the heat. Anywayz i'm really stumped and as a result i no longer enjoy running my car as i once did because of all the frustration it causes me.
If anyone could shed some light onto the situation i would really really appreciate that!!!

Cheers,

Chris

3434

04-13-2002, 04:18 PM

Sound like its running lean. You said it sat for a while is anything gummed up? It might even be the pressure line. Do you run a fuel filter? Just be carefull if you start cleaning things with motor spray. Kyosho O-rings dont like it!

Redfox

04-13-2002, 08:59 PM

Yeah i do run a fuel filter... i don't think that's the problem tho... btw what do you ppl reckon the best needle settings for the landmax are??? cos everything i've read is different! The manual sez 3 turns out for the high speed (i think) and if i run that setting it'll kill itself from runnin too rich. And the manual sez for the low speed to screw it in until you just can't see the little line on the screw. But then i was reading the tower hobbies website and it sed to screw it in until the shoulder of the screw is lined up with the end of the shaft sorta thing you are screwing it into!

So with all of that said, i would really appreciate advice on settings from other landmax owners! Don't you find that experience genrally gives a better idea than stupid manual?!

Also, how do you know when you need a new fuel filter? Mine was pretty clogged up on a few occassions so i washed it and let it dry out. Can i just keep doing that or is there going to be a point where i can't do it anymore??

I'm still annoyed that the damn thing doesn't do a hot restart. I know some guys who can do a hot restart just like that! I used to be able to do it in the first month or so of running. Now it's stuffed!

Oh and i have a major complaint about the shocks on this car! Like it's a great car and all (even tho some ppl ask me what i was smokin when i bought the landy), but why can't kyosho put some decent shocks on it?! I heard from the beginning that the shocks were pretty crap, but i didn't believe it. I did everything perfectly for assembly and they leaked! So basically to shock oil serves no purpose in my shocks anymore!

I still have the kit for the rear sway bar, but it never came with instructions on how to attach it! I have seen many ways of attaching a sway bar, but i just can't work it out for the landmax! If anyone has successfully attached this, then could you lend me a hand?!

Anywayz, i'd really like some advice on this stuff cos it's been bugging me a lot lately!

Thanks very much pplz,

Chris

Redfox

04-13-2002, 09:59 PM

Ok i was just playing around wiv the landy again and i was messin around wiv the settings and i discovered that 3 turns out wasn't such a bad setting after all! It was the longest run i'd done in ages and it did hot restarts!! So i'm a bit happier now that i have sort of sorted that out. I think earlier i was runnin it a bit too lean like 3434 said.
Am i right in saying that when you run the car, it's expected that you change the needle settings depending on how hot the car is? Ie. if you are just starting up you run it slightly leaner since it hasn't fully warmed up yet and then after about 5 mins you can make it richer since it is warmed up? Or is it the other way around??
Still it's a very fiddly operation dealing wiv the needle settings! I didn't know that 1/8th of a turn actually made so much difference! That's another area where i've been going wrong. When i used to adjust it, i would turn it at least half or a turn to make adjustments. Silly me...

Chris =]

ecatbox

04-14-2002, 05:52 AM

welcome back stranger...

glad you are still having fun with your car...and it sounds like you're gettin the hang of tuning...and yes, the closer the engine gets to operating temp, the more fuel it will need to run the same...and believe it or not, after some more practice you will be able to tell if the engine is too rich or too lean BEFORE its running...the more fuel you are putting in, the harder it gets to turn that sucker over (as you have probably already noticed)...

basic idea being to get it started and keep it running while it warms up, then do some passes to see what kind of rpm it will pull, tune the high end appropriately, then tune the bottom end for decent punch off the line and through the first part of the rpm range...and once you have a decent baseline tune, you won't have to make very large adjustments at all unless you change something...and when you do make changes, you should be making them in increments like an hour on a clock...there is a definite "sweet spot"

just remember...don't let it get too hot and ALWAYS make sure you have that nice plume of smoke from the pipe on throttle...

ecatbox

04-14-2002, 06:21 AM

p.s. you can clean and reuse the fuel filter indefinintely, just replace the o-rings if they get too crumbly...

heres a scan of BSW-79 (front swaybar) which installs the same way (generally speaking) as the rear...

http://***********/gp20/Reference/BSW79.jpg

just take off the BSW79.jpg to browse the rest of the kit documentation and some other option part instruction sheets...

*edit*: kind of crappy scan, i'll redo it tomorrow

Redfox

04-14-2002, 08:25 AM

Yeah thanks bukkake... i'm still not sure about the rear stabiliser... btw the kit came with 2 bars... obviously 1 was less flexible than the other... but it also came with 2 slide on ball end attachments and two balls with 4 plastic sockets on a tree. It also had two double ended bars which i presumed were supposed to screw into the rear holes in the lower suspension arm at the rear, and the other end into one of the plastic sockets... am i right in saying that???
Since i go so much stuff does that mean that i am supposed to install one bar into the front as well??
i took it out again later this arvo and the engine was givin me probs even tho i was takin my time ot tune it properly! I really wanna get an OS .21 that runs better and is easier to tune!!! pity i'll cost me about $400 australian...
Anywayz... i'm gonna check out that scan you did and figure out how to install these sway bars properly!! is the rear sway bar supposed to just stick up into the air?? cos i found that the ball end kinda clips the rear handle of the car a little bit... or am i supposed to tuck the bar in that little overhang of the rear gear assembly??
Chris =]

Redfox

04-14-2002, 08:52 AM

Ok forget i asked... i just worked it out thanks to your diagram bukkake... very grateful for that!! =] so infact i have to supply the screws for the sway bar cos the stupid kit doesn't come with them... hrmmmmmm

chris =]

ecatbox

04-15-2002, 01:38 AM

eheh yeah they are sneaky like that...the adjustable engine mount set is like $15 for 2 aluminum blocks and 2 little plates..and NO HARDWARE

put the new pics up for BSW 79 and 86..much easier to read now

Redfox

04-16-2002, 03:54 AM

Ok... rear sway bar installed!! woo hoo! =]

but i'm still really pissed off about the engine! Why is this GS21R so damn annoying? Today it took ages for me to restart it a second time even tho it wasn't hot since it had been runnin for like max of 2mins until the f**ker stalled!! ARGH!! i don't know why it stalls, it's really annoying me!!!

Ok i have a question on the tuning technique for the GS21R.
When i start it off, i start it with the low speed slightly rich to get the fuel in and the high speed about 2 and 3/4 turns out. Then once started and warming up i adjust the high speed to about 3 turns out and then drive it around to see how sluggish it is. Then i start leaning out the low speed until i get good acceleration. The thing i find is that after about 5 or so mins of run time, the engine will start stalling and i found that i have to lean out the low end even more to stop it from almost dying.

So would i be right in saying that as the engine gets hotter you have to start leaning out the low end needle to keep it idling nicely??

What mixture do you ppl use for the high spd needle btw?? is between 2 7/8 and 3 1/8 turns out a good setting??
Oh and roughly what is the ideal low speed adjustment?!
Is it just me or is this engine fairly hard to keep runnin consistently?! Are all r/c engines like this?!

Cheers,

Chris

bad andy

04-16-2002, 10:46 AM

Hey REDFOX, approximately how many gallons do you have through this engine so far? The reason I ask is that the symptoms you describe sound like a dying engine to me. i.e.--can't do hot restarts, -engine dying when warmed up, -necessity to lean low needle to keep running, -lack of compression. You may need to do an engine rebuild by way of a new piston/sleeve and conrod. The telltale sign would be to dissassemble the engine and take out the piston/sleeve. See if the piston slides up and through the top of the sleeve..do NOT force it if it is tight, just see if it is easy to do this. If so, this may indicate that there has been sufficient wear of the piston/sleeve to a point that you've lost enough compression to make the engine's running erratic. I do not know how expensive a piston/sleeve/conrod is for the GS21, you may want to weigh this option against the price for a new engine altogether. I bet for a little more than a rebuild, you could get a nice mill that makes more power.

ecatbox

04-17-2002, 12:07 AM

don't give up on the poor thing just yet...if it still takes some effort to turn the engine over from the flywheel and you still get a *pop*, it will run...now let's see if i can answer your questions...

When i start it off, i start it with the low speed slightly rich to get the fuel in and the high speed about 2 and 3/4 turns out. Then once started and warming up i adjust the high speed to about 3 turns out and then drive it around to see how sluggish it is. Then i start leaning out the low speed until i get good acceleration. The thing i find is that after about 5 or so mins of run time, the engine will start stalling and i found that i have to lean out the low end even more to stop it from almost dying.

i think you have it too rich on the top end so you then have to keep fiddling with the low end to keep it running since it keeps dumping all that fuel in when you come off the throttle...when does it stall exactly?

So would i be right in saying that as the engine gets hotter you have to start leaning out the low end needle to keep it idling nicely??

nope...as it gets hotter and runs leaner, you should be opening up the top end to let in more fuel across the board and help keep it cooler...

What mixture do you ppl use for the high spd needle btw?? is between 2 7/8 and 3 1/8 turns out a good setting??
Oh and roughly what is the ideal low speed adjustment?!
Is it just me or is this engine fairly hard to keep runnin consistently?! Are all r/c engines like this?!

thats about the right neighborhood but the "best" settings are going to vary from engine to engine and upon all the other variables (fuel, plug, pipe, nitro and oil %, atmospheric conditions, cycles of the moon etc.)...the low end needle should generally have the "groove" just inside it's housing (or around there anyways)

i have found the gs21's to be a decent stable engine but they do run pretty hot which can confuse the tuning a bit (when it just keeps getting HOTTER)...not a bad one to learn on anyways...

just fire it up one day, keep it idling for 5 minutes, then tune the high end down to where you can really pull some rpm (disregarding acceleration completely) and hear it screeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaam (but still with the smoke of course) and THEN tune the low end so you get some punch when you goose the throttle...

Redfox

04-17-2002, 05:48 AM

Yeah thanks for the tips guys...

bad andy, i'm not sure how many gallons it's been through (i don't even know what a gallon is), but i can't assure you that it hasn't been through that many...

the good news is that i still get the "pop" which bukkake described! =] so i'm just gonna keep tryin to tune this mother. Yesterday i had a really good run and it only quit about twice through the whole tank. Infact i accidentally let the tank run dry cos i totally forgot about fuel since i recently haven't had to refill that often!!! I am runnin it fairly rich... about 3 turns out, but that has made a big impact on being able to restart the engine. Hot restarts seem to be a bit easier now. I'm gonna try leaning it out a little just to try and get around that "too much fuel" prob when i come off the gas... then i should be able to adjust the low end nicely. Anywayz, less talk and more action! I gotta go and buy somemore fuel tomorrow in the city.

I've been contemplating converting the landmax to an onroad 1/8th... the reason for this is that i really don't get the chance to take it to the offroad r/c track out at st ives (10 min drive) much anymore. Prolly cos it gave me the ***** with the engine quitting on me all the time. I would really like a starter box but i really don't wanna fork out that kinda dosh when i could just save it up and put up with the pull start.

Something that has been bothering me lately are the shocks! I can't believe kyosho could put such sh*tty shocks in this car that cost quite a bit! I would really like to know if it is worth my time/effort/ and money to spruce up the car with some half decent shocks! Does it make a lot of difference with the handling of the car??

Anywayz, thanks again for the help!

Later, Chris

Pr0k

04-17-2002, 10:21 PM

Yeah, I too am amazed that the stock shocks are so crappy! that will be my first upgrade, I bought some offna buggy shocks that I plan to use, I will let you know how that works out. The kyosho upgraded shocks are just too expensive for basically the same shocks as the offnas.

Redfox

04-18-2002, 04:14 AM

yeah i was in the city today getting some nitro fuel (btw there is a MAJOR lack of fuel choices here in Australia! I got some dodgy no name fuel from a really good hobby store and there was like 1 brand to choose from!!!). Oh before i forget, what's so good about synthetic oil?? I suppose anything that doesn't smell like castor (puke!) then it's gotta be good!! I wanted to buy one with synthetic but it only came in a bottle of 5% nitro... hardly enough to make my landy move! =]

Ummmm anywayz so i saw a pack of GP20 size shocks from kyosho at the shop and the two fronts were AU$111 and to be quite frank, as much as they look like the coolest shocks i've ever seen, i can't see myself spending money on them!!!

Can anyone suggest some good shocks (pref aluminium wiv threaded bodies) that i can chuck on the landmax?? oh and they can't be too expensive!! I wouldn't mind the T-maxx hop up shocks cos i think they are 4" but the prob is that you can't get the 3" ones... so suggestions anyone??

I think tower has duratrax aluminium shocks that would fit the landmax for pretty cheap. I will look into it further.

Damn i would love to have the MP7.5 Landmax and put on all the aluminium hop ups! Geez... oh well...

So do you guys reckon i should keep it rally or make some modifications to make it on-road?? i know it won't have any chance at keeping up wiv a proper onroad 1/8th but it's not like i will be racing anyone in 1/8th scale or anything! I think i'll stick to rally until the tyres wear down to slicks and then i'll convert it, cos i'm too budget to buy slicks for the car! hehe =]

I'm plannin on making a front bumper for it when i get time. I already bought a tile of HD foam to cut it out of. I just dunno what to make the base of the bumper out of? Aluminium or what??

Anywayz, suggestions for anything are always welcome pplz!

Later, Chris =]

ecatbox

04-19-2002, 01:40 AM

if you are enjoying the car, shocks are a DEFINITE worthwhile investment...the kyosho ones are not cheap (BSW-27 and 28 at ~$40usd each set being the cheapest) but i think you will be happier with 8th scale buggy shocks regardless of make...about the cheapest route is like my pal pr0k did, pick up a full set of the ofna ones for roughly $30-40 off ebay...of course i realize this may not be an option for you...just keep your eyes open for the bargains...

setting your car up for onroad action is not too tricky and it can even be made to handle quite well...course then you have to get the 2 speed to be REALLY dangerous...eheh

aluminum (or aluminium) should work fine for the bumper plate...just don't sharpen up the edge too much or you risk amputating your foot next time you whack yourself (cmon, we've all done it)

Pr0k

04-21-2002, 01:25 PM

Well the shocks arrived. and they look pretty nice will post more pics when installed!

http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/bellsouthpwp/Groups/5/5928/folders/15069/88376ofnashocks.jpg

ecatbox

04-25-2002, 04:46 PM

promised something for 3434 so here it is...

BSW-55 aka GTW-6 aluminum special center diff mount

http://***********/gp20/misc/bsw55.jpg

i got this one on ebay for about $60 new...it's going in my project car along with some other goodies...check out the sideways caliper in back and how the brake cams are bearing supported...now thats what i call a hopup! eheh

3434

04-25-2002, 04:55 PM

Hey Bukkake

I'm here. I knew about the the price of the gears and had put it in the first post gtw-20. But for some reason they deleted it. They didn't move it or say why just got rid of it. I geuss thats how they do it here. Now you know what I was talking about not sure if the ofna will work? Kyosho used to make more clutch bells for the two speed but no more. As for speed you have to remember my four stroke only turns about 10,000.

ecatbox

04-25-2002, 06:11 PM

heres what i have so far option-wise...

39983 skyline r34 body set
BSW-86 bb steering (BSW-67 if i can find one, just to be cool)
GT-30 of course
GTW-1 universals (full set of 4)
BSW-79 and BS-63 front and rear swaybar set
BSW-55 just mentioned
W-0136 and W0137 "hardened" aluminum balls, 5.8 and 6.8mm respectively

engine:
right now, ofna/picco sport with 5 shoe nuova faor flywheel and cvec, i may see if the comp. 6 port sleeve/piston/rod really does fit in there when i wear this one out or i may pick up a hyper 21 just so i can use my BSW-59 "clutch bell guide" and BSW-58 sg clutch nut...course then i will have to get a new flywheel and clutch, prolly go with the 3 or 4 shoe ofna setup...would also like to see if i can use the "short" 165 cvec and figure out a rear-exhaust system that actually PERFORMS and works with a round port engine...(custom manifold =5/8" aluminum tubing and a bender)

shocks: was planning on using the BSW-27/28 for the sake of originality (or something) but got a set of BSW-72/73 with my ebay inferno...but i may use those on the rally landmax and use IFW-30/31 on the project...also have the BSW-41 steel shock mounts

the exciting part:

have a good quantity of 3mm carbon fiber sheet, suitable for making "replicas" of GTW-7/8/9 (front body mount, front and rear shock towers), a countersunk chassis, custom radio tray, and a one-piece top brace that will replace the steering and center diff plates (and tie them together in the stiffest way possible)...also have an idea to replace the rear chassis brace rod thing with a one-piece aluminum bracket that will tie the rear bulkhead, chassis and radio tray together (and maybe even the plastic center diff mount on the rally car, dont wanna drill up the bsw-55!)...like to fit a MP5/6 radio box (IF-17) back there too to protect my electronics better...i have a cool electronic speedo that reads to 100+ mph, i just have to figure out how to mount the magnet for the hall-effect sensor somewhere on the center diff or an unused drive cup...saves the highest speed attained so should be good for ending arguments...

coming soon:

complete lunsford ti turnbuckles (spent a few hours the other night writing down part numbers for em all) and i will check if they sell their 3x22mm hingepins separately to replace/strengthen the 27mm (with linkage stoppers) stock pins

brakes: have some thinner fiber (little under 2mm) and a 1.25" holesaw (thanks pr0k!) so will try to make my own discs and see how many i can jam on there...an 8 disc setup would be sweet eheh...

rims: would really like some of the chrome GT-52"S"s but can't find em anywhere so i will probably settle for the chrome 6 spokes (GT-37S) as i don't like the look of the GT-38 five spokes...none of these is particularly obtainable right now anyway so it may be a moot point...alloys may be an option if the guy who was gonna make em for me ever shows back up...

thats about all i can think of offhand for parts...should be quite a toy when it all comes together...hopefully in my lifetime

thanks to anybody who actually reads all this...was good for me to think it all out on "paper"

ecatbox

04-25-2002, 06:21 PM

hmmm...maybe deleted or maybe the forum burped and ate it...i know what you mean though, things here have a way of disappearing sometimes...

tell you what, i will call a few places tomorrow and see what the deal is with that ofna bell...maybe we can go in on an international order...ahaha...i sure would like an 18/21...couple that with the LM2 tranny and set it up to hit 2nd at about 60mph...ehehe

3434

04-25-2002, 09:08 PM

Do you know the part# of the ofna bell? There is a lhs here that carrys ofna stuff. I dont deal with him often but the last time I was there he had a wall full of the screw on pinions. I didn't see the bell but I wasn't looking for it.

ecatbox

04-25-2002, 10:27 PM

part 35242 for the bell, heres what i have so far for pinions:

16T #35240
17T # 35241
19T # 35254
21T # 35256

thanks to Unregistered for these numbers, he posted em in the "project monster gtp" thread...you can see the listing for all of them (though not with usable part numbers) on hongnor.com...go to the rallygames section and look under the "original options" parts...

edit: monster gtp thread:
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=77530

3434

04-25-2002, 10:41 PM

I'll take my bell down there this weekend and see if I can match it up. It may not be the one your looking for but if the dimensions are the same I'll let you know.

ecatbox

04-25-2002, 10:47 PM

sounds good, thanks...i think they both use the same "pitch" 10 teeth per cm and i've heard of people using ofna buggies with kyosho bells so we may get lucky...

3434

04-25-2002, 10:59 PM

I don't think we will have a problem they are both metric pitch. Its the overall length and the diameter of the bell. This guy pushes ofna ( shudder ) and doesn't carry much else. Maybe we'll get lucky. Well I ordered the gears tonight for the GTW-20 we will see what they look like. It looks like the one-way bearing holder is the same for both two speeds but first gear is about twice as thick not sure about second.

ecatbox

04-25-2002, 11:10 PM

cool...we'll figure something out one way or another...

p.s. tower makes it look like they (GT-30, GTW-20) use the same bell so if the gears fit, prolly take up whatever slack with the magic of shims...reckon we'll see

i still needs to pick up a set of LM2 a-arms and see if they fit...if they do then i can use my fancypants fioroni knuckles too

3434

04-25-2002, 11:45 PM

Yea like to see an exploded view. I dont know how the engine sits front to back in the 7.5. I keep looking at the two on Tower. Have you ever found the high performace chassis? Oh I found a steel ring and pinion set BS-14 any idea if this will fit? I know there was a handfull of different diff. sets.

ecatbox

04-26-2002, 02:19 AM

i got an exploded view LM2 here courtesy of emrys from the nitroreview landmax forum...

http://***********/gp20/Reference/Landmax2/

BS-14 is the burns part, BS-121 is the stock type inferno/landmax replacement (both little and big bevels), BSW-1 and 2 are the hard steel version, little and big respectively...and gawdawful expensive...i haven't killed any cheapos yet *knocks on head*

ecatbox

04-26-2002, 02:28 AM

i have a BS-14 here too and it looks like it would fit, but the pinion one has more teeth and the ring gear is missing the back part thats on the BS-121 (the end of the diff that locates in the bearing) so not exactly a direct swap...the inferno ones are cheaper by about half anyways...

not sure of the part number for the 3mm hard countersunk fancy chassis but i seem to remember there was one...i'm too cheap to pay those wacky prices for a flat piece of aluminum anyway...going to try to pick up the inferno dx/dx II manuals and see if there are any other goodies mentioned there that kyosho didn't tell us about...think i got it about covered though...ehehe...i need to finish up the all inclusive parts list...you'll freak (or maybe not)...need to hurry up and put some kind of front-end on that site too...

Redfox

04-26-2002, 03:49 AM

Bukkake... maaaaate!!! That BSW-55 centre diff thing is unreal lookin! Oh geez now you have made me wanna soup up my landmax! How much has your project car set you back so far, and how much do you estimate it will cost in the end?? THis should hopefully convince me not to hop up the landy or else i'll be outta pocket a lotta money from the looks of things! I always thought the landmax wasn't exactly the sorta car where you get lotsa cool aluminium hop up parts for, but i guess i was wrong. Btw, where do you get your 3mm prefab CF from?? I can't find any cos no one really sells it! And working wiv CF is one of the most annoying things! Everything just sticks to everything else and is generally a pain in the arse. Also i doubt i can make perfectly flat sheets of CF so any help here would be good! =] Btw how do you shape the CF? you can jigsaw the stuff right??
I think i'm gonna run the landmax for another month or 2 and then start workin on makin it roadworthy! I think i should get a job, but uni is so time consuming!
Anywayz, keep us updated on your car cos it sounds unreal!
Later,
Chris

Pr0k

04-26-2002, 06:13 AM

HAHA You dont really want to know how much he will end up spending , and he gets most parts below retail. I will say this though when he is done he will have 1 souped up, tricked out rc car!

3434

04-26-2002, 06:47 AM

Wasn't sure about the BS-14 got them long before the landmax out of a hobby stores $1 box. They did change a few part
#'s. That bsw-55 became a GTW-6 thats the one I have. I have some of the manuals inferno st, and either the burns or dx. I can't seem to find that one or my landmax one. I'm sure when I do I'll find the one for the one-way.

ecatbox

04-26-2002, 10:51 AM

3434- sounds like your toypile rivals my own...

chris- pretty aint it? saw that baby on the 'bay and my jaw dropped...then i had to wait 6 days and stay up about 36 consecutive hours so i wouldn't miss the closing...paid off though as i saved about $70 off towers price (they have em listed believe it or not)...it should look pretty all polished up with the 2 speed sitting in it...ehehe

and you should know by now, anything kyosho is HOP UP CENTRAL...thats why all mine are used, because you can easily spend 2x the price of the kit buying all the cool options...ahaha...if you're gonna replace it all anyway...

it's a good car as-is but i would recommend a few things...the bb steering is very nice, shocks are pretty much a necessity, universals are nice, better brakes and the swaybars etc, i could go on...eheh

as far as the carbon, i bought that on ebay too...go back a page or two and you can even see a picture of it, along with the subaru and my kitty...

and like any true hobbyist, if i kept track of what i spent, i would have to quit...

how's yer engine tuning coming? you gettin the hang of it?

and finally, pr0k: hush it down old man or you will be doing your own wrenching

p.s. heres a nice photo from the nitroreview landmax forum ( www.nitroreview.com/newforum/forum.cfm?clubid=42 )...car belongs to a guy there and is probably one of the best examples i have seen of a very nice, clean, mildly modifed (but very trick) landmax...check out his chassis braces and all the nice little touches...

ecatbox

04-26-2002, 11:01 AM

one last recommended hop-up...BSW-54 (3 purple) or IFW-56 (4 blue) aluminum radio posts...stiffen up the whole deal and look pretty...fioroni also makes a BSW-54 (4 blue) that you can sometimes find cheaper than the kyosho

another shot of that car:

3434

04-26-2002, 01:14 PM

Yea my first r/c was the racing kart .10. Then down the road I got into the KWC. I haven't owned all the Kyosho cars just bought the manuals. Find more hop-ups that way. When the Landmax came out I new I was going to buy one so I started collecting parts. Inventory reduction things like that. I think I paid $80 for the gtw-6. I have to find the header but I have an alum. bb steering. They were $130 and I got them for$24.99.

ecatbox

04-26-2002, 02:03 PM

thats the BSW-67...now i am REALLY jealous...tower acts like it never existed and the one other place i can find that MAY have one wants $75 for it...

my only consolation is that i seem to be sitting on the last 3 pairs of universals in the country..i'm glad i bought that skyline body already too as it seems tower is out of everything good for the moment...i hope their "mid-june" actually means june and not "never"...

3434

04-26-2002, 02:24 PM

I missed your other post about the gtw-6. That was on and off the daily sale this past winter. I could have got it cheeper but I waited to long then they said they were discontinued. So I thought I was out of luck then three weeks later it was back on the daily sale. I figured someone returned it because it still said discontinued. I'm gonna bring you to your knees. That steering setup was on inventory reduction for about two years in speedmart. I turned a few people on to it. Now for the killer and I kick myself for not buying more but I got the skyline body for $20-$25 in the speedmart.

And no more uni's? Don't they fit the LM2? I have them in the front another deal. But I'D like to replace them if I could

ecatbox

04-26-2002, 05:30 PM

AAAAHHHHH stop the torture...ehehe... i would give their shipping department a workout at $25 a pop...

not sure if the unis fit the LM2 or not, i was under the impression the 7.5 ushered in a whole new way of mounting the wheels (nut instead of bolt ala ofna) but judging from that diagram, it looks the same...hopefully just a temporary thing regardless...

got a new speedmart just today actually...might haveta make me an order...

p.s. hobbyetc.com also sells their own landmax universals...for about $40...they have some other cool stuff but its all pretty overpriced

Pr0k

04-26-2002, 05:39 PM

You guys have me outclassed by far,I am having some fun though which is what it is all about I guess. The parts are rather elusive or expensive, but then the hunt is half the fun! Damn you Bukkake, I think I am hooked!

ecatbox

04-26-2002, 06:09 PM

now we just need to find a chik fil a with a REALLY BIG parking lot to keep you out of trouble

3434

04-26-2002, 08:55 PM

Originally posted by bukkake
part 35242 for the bell, heres what i have so far for pinions:

16T #35240
17T # 35241
19T # 35254
21T # 35256

I made a phone call tonight and he has one of that bell. He also said that unless ofna changed there marketing the pinions only come in a two pack. He has the 14-18 set. He also has a two-speed that he robbed parts out of and will sell the bell from that but it sounded like we would get stuck with the teeth on it.

I'm not sure but I think the LM2 uses the same wheels and drive washers as the LM1. Even though they changed the drive washer on the inferno 7.5

Redfox

04-27-2002, 03:31 AM

Ok! I know it's all my fault, and i should've listened to all those posts about kids! Being the kind hearted guy that i am, i let the girl across the road (i think she's like 15 or somethin) drive the landy... and i thought she knew wat she was doing cos she knew what the brake and throttle were on the controller. And she drove it smack bang into the gutter! Luckily it was a very frontal collision so nothin broke, but the steering is now outta alignment! So ppl, warning to you all, DON'T BE SOFT!!!
Later, Chris =]

Redfox

04-27-2002, 03:41 AM

Btw, bukkake, my tuning has turned out really good!! I can run the car for the full tank now and it doesn't even get hot! I'm really enjoying myself, except for the little hiccup of lettin someone else drive my car!! *bangs head on keyboard!!!*

Those pics of the landmax looks unreal!!!!!!!!!!! Hey you wouldn't be able to tell me what kinda tyres they are on that car? They look like really good quality 1/8 radials for a car far worthier than mine, but i still want them!!! I don't really like the standard rally tyres and the slicks can wait for a little while. I am quite surprised to see that this guy left the black plastic mud guards on his car.

Hey one thing i don't like much about the landmax is the lack of a countersunk chassis. Like how are you supposed to make it countersunk wivout makin yaself a whole new chassis eh??

I have discovered that the rear left upper arm is totally outta whack, and the wheel seems to have quite a bit more toe in than the other rear wheel! I must've whacked it on the gutter sometime but i can't remember when! Is it possible that this is what is causing the car to steer too much too the right??

Oh another prob that i've encountered is the loose steering! Can anyone suggest a way of tightenin up the steering because i've had a look at the whole system and i can't work out what is wrong. There just seems to be a lotta movement in the steering in all different areas. That could be a reason why the car seems to wanna oversteer a lot.

Thanks for ya help,

Chris

ecatbox

04-27-2002, 05:07 AM

3434- that IS good news...i meant to give nitrohouse a call today as they are neighbors with ofna and would probably have a clue what i wanted, but didn't get the chance...what kind of money is your guy getting for them? i think if it works out i will have to pick up a few sets of pinions just to have options/replacements...a 16/19 or 17/20 would probably be more practical but haveta try 18/21 for ummm "testing purposes"...

and yeah, looking at that exploded diagram it uses the same wheels and bolts and the whole thing...i know the carriers and knuckles are different too, (MP5/6/7.5 all use the same knuckles but the 7.5 and LM2 use different carriers from the MP5/6)...

just did a little cross-referencing between that diagram, tower and the LM1 manual, and i find that the LM2 front arms use a 4x74mm pin at the bottom compared to the LM1 4x64 so it might not be worth messing with after all..ehehe

chris- i believe these are the tires...the price tag makes me cry, if i bought a set of those i don't think i would be able to bear gettin em dirty:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXLP67&P=7

however, i have found 2.2" tires to be a good fit, as long as they are not too wide...i mounted some proline "dirt hawg III" (buggy front tires) right up and they look like they will make fine rally style tires, even look pretty scale (pic below)...so i'm thinking some of the proline "road rage" 2.2"s for a street tire...they make a front and rear and i'm sure one or both will fit...have to let you know on that one...they look very similar to those kyosho ones and cost half as much on tower (can be had even cheaper)...

links for those:
buggy front: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXDU33&P=7
buggy rear: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXDU34&P=7

the "truck" road rage look way too wide to fit without rubbing manifold/steering linkage:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXLN12&P=7

the dirt hawgs mounted up super-easy even though the bead design is totally different...

glad to hear you're having good results, it really is just a matter of practice...too bad it took a hit from the neighbor girl but sounds like time for a little maintenance anyways...

you know, i just noticed he only has only of those side guards on...funny i notice that he has an actual manifold on his engine, but didn't catch that...

i noticed on the inferno i picked up off ebay, the chassis is the exact same (with that 12-245 number stamped in) but is countersunk...i guess kyosho got sick of paying people to do it, or maybe the owner did it...theres probably some $90 3mm hard chassis but i dont know the part number for it...

it sounds like you need to go over the steering and suspension and get everything shipshape again...having the suspension set up wacky will definitely make odd things happen...and probably should go through and check those ball links etc in the steering too...might be worn or sticky or beat up, causing that slop...the stock system is not the greatest but shouldn't be that bad...

heres that pic of the dirt hawgs next to some landmax ST rim/tires off one of the ebay fleet...the ST tires are taller than normal landmax rubber, the dirt hawgs are actually a bit lower profile than the regular rally tires

http://***********/gp20/misc/tires.jpg

ecatbox

04-27-2002, 05:15 AM

p.s. yes i have rebuilt my pullstart since that photo was taken...also, looking further at tower, those road rage fronts should fit perfectly...i'll pick up a set and give a full report...maybe i will pick up one set of the rear too for kicks, i think they would fit in back depending on manifold but might rub up front

3434

04-27-2002, 07:11 AM

He won't give prices over the phone. But he usually lets me look at the catalogs. I don't think I've been there in a year it's not far about 15 miles but prices are high. Wasn't sure if you were interested. He did confirm that 35000 series was 1/8 scale and he had the 1/0 in all the gears. I see one problem it looks like the Ofna has a 4 tooth jump so it may take two sets of gears. You may not get your 21 but settle for a 20?

And you might what to use the rear tires I think the front ones are to narrow. I' ll check I think I have them here. They might be road hogs but I think there the same size. Dura trax makes tires for this too.

If I can't get a counter sunk chassis I do it my self. There were a couple of chassis around but they were all gone here in the states when I got my LM. A BSW-80 comes to mind. They might still be available just not here I'll check the numbers and get back. The chassis we have is one of two optional ones for the old Espirit. That had an inferno chassis and the one we have was called the optional two speed chassis. Don't know what is different never had an inferno.

ecatbox

04-27-2002, 11:52 PM

sounds good to me...let me check with nitrohouse on monday and see if they a.) know what im talking about and 2.) get an idea of prices...i am guessing $25ish for clutchbell and no idea for the pinions...

here are todays results of running Pr0k's car with my rims and tires on it...put em on on a whim just to see how much wear a bit of pavement running would cause and we completely destroyed them...car had so much stick it would traction roll like a tmaxx (eheh)...especially with him at the wheel (ahem)...but we did get his 2 speed dialed and performed some amazing two wheel stunt driving so not a total waste...ran the inferno too until the roomie did a curb check and crippled it slightly...ah well

before: (with stylish new ofna shocks and k&n)
http://***********/gp20/misc/pr0k-01.jpg

after: one set proline dirt hawgs $16, one destroyed rear shock tower (plastic) $worthless, one scratched gs21 head $i'll give him one of mine, the look on somebodies face when you traction roll into a lateral flip with 1440 degrees of rotation, land on the wheels and blast away - priceless

note how the tires ripped apart, bead still glued in...these are definitely dirt only...think i will try buggy rear next time

http://***********/gp20/misc/pr0k-02.jpg

Pr0k

04-28-2002, 12:00 AM

HAHAHA! yeah I had a great time. My Landmax head didn't! The traction rolls were the bomb! And hey give me some crefit i cut down on curb checks!

Pr0k

04-28-2002, 12:16 AM

Ok i get the new shocks and go over to Bukkake's place to install. Much larger shock nice sized piston. Were 30 bucks on ebay, so I took a shot. Minor problem the shock was too large to fit in the lower mount holes! Soooo Out came the dremel, and Voila

3434

04-28-2002, 12:23 AM

Thats incredable what you did to those tires. The ofna stuff doesn't look good. With the gears on its about 5mm longer and there is about a 3mm gap between the gears. The bell was $24.99 and the pinion set14-18 was$19.99. With tax $47.68. Looks like the ofna two speed is the way to go.

Pr0k

04-28-2002, 12:52 AM

Actually it was just small mod maybe 1/8"
http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/bellsouthpwp/Groups/5/5928/folders/15069/92992IMG0018.jpg

The right has been modified the left hasn't yet.

Redfox

04-28-2002, 03:13 AM

THat is some SERIOUS shredding! And that was after a day of running eh?!

Well i am having more problems wiv the landy! Argh! will they ever stop?! First of all, the little silver aluminium pulley for the fan came off this arvo. I could only find the pulley but not the screw. What kinda screw does that part use to attach it to the pilot shaft??

Also, i'm still having the problems of it veering right after yesterday's running. Today i took apart the steering and tightened a few things up but it's still sorta loose.

Anywayz, i noticed if you trim the steering to the left, then when you gas it up the street, the car stays reasonably straight (still a little to the right), then when you come off the gas and hit the brakes, it swerves to the left. I was thinkin, is it possible that one of the diffs (rear or front) aren't transferring the power evenly to the wheels so that i am getting more power in the left, causing it to veer right??

I'm pretty sure that it isn't the steering cos it's all nice and straight again. I sort fixed the rear left upper arm and while i was doing that, i noticed that the rear wheels have a slight toe in. I dunno why, but i think the plastic arms are to blame. Do you know of aluminium arms that are made for the landmax. The mp5 arms would be way too long... does fioroni make arms for the landmax??

Btw, bukkake, you mentioned in an earlier post that the landmax that you saw on the nitroreview readers rides page had a manifold on the engine, well so does mine. Mine is the stock one wiv the rubber L joint to attach the pipe. THe manifold screws through into the block.

Oh and that air filter on PrOks ride looks unreal. I want one! Is that the K&B filter that they made up for the T-Maxx? If you could possibly gimme a link to a site that sells them i'd much appreciate it cos quite frankly, the stock kyosho filter just plains sucks.

Cheers ppl,

Chris =]

Redfox

04-28-2002, 04:55 AM

Hey bukkake, those tyres on that nitroreview ride are actually the GP20 radials off tower which only cost $15.49 a pair...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXV594&P=7

i might get some =]

Later, chris

Redfox

04-28-2002, 08:52 AM

ok i've sorta worked out a symptom that you guys might be able to help me wiv regarding the weird steering that my car has been doing lately. When i centre the steering and then put the car on the floor and roll it back and forth, the car moves to the right quite drastically! And i don't mean it just steers to the right but the whole car basically shifts right even when you roll it back towards you? Does this make sense?

I took off the front assembly and the whole thing looks ok. No bent parts or anything. I was thinkin that maybe when i first put the car together i screwed on the front diff housing not straight but i don't think that's the case. The front assembly actually looks like it might be ever so slightly rotated right.

Anywayz, i'm still unsure of what's happened. If anyone could shed some light onto the situation it'd be much appreciated! I've got all the front steering lined up perfectly and the only thing that i've really changed from the suggested settings in the instructions is that i have reasonable amount of toe in and also slight camber.

Sometimes i tell myself that i should've bought an HPI RS42 and then modified it! Although i luv the landmax cos it can actually go almost anywhere. Tell me this tho, how much play should there be in the steering?? The front wheels have about 7-8mm movement in them. Is this normal??

I'll work on it more tomorrow afternoon, and try to figure out what's wrong.

Chris

ecatbox

04-28-2002, 09:15 AM

that was after maybe a HALF HOUR of running...but it had crazy traction while they lasted...from a stop, i could cut the wheel left and get on it and the car would pick up the front wheel and would eventually pop up onto two wheels and unload the diffs...STUNT DRIVIN...poor things were just a little overwhelmed...very soft rubber + insane cornering forces = *rip*...i think they would rock on dirt, i'll try the rear version next time and keep it off the pavement...

3434- yeah, sounding like that is the ticket...15/19 and 44/48 ain't too bad at all i guess...guy had one on ebay last week with a $105 buy it now and it only got to $67 (reserve not met) but i notice towers price dropped back down to normal since the other day...i think the other ofna people would probably have one (nitrohouse or ace) cheaper anyway (and in stock)...i will expect a full review if you pick one up of course (ehehe)...and i appreciate your help with the clutch bell thing...maybe i'll have a little present for you soon...

chris- 3mm screw for the clutch nut, you should have one in your "KYOSHO RACING BOX", pretty short one will do and don't forget the loctite...

i think the veering almost has to be slop in the steering...with the radio etc. on and the steering effectively "locked" at center, are you able to turn either of the wheels much? might wanna check the bearings up front also, make sure everything is pretty tight in general...

for the rear toe in, you can adjust it with the little plastic blocks, i'm not sure if a new kit comes with all 3 of em or not...at the very back of the car where the inside lower hingepins mount up, the block they go into should have a number on it...0,1 or 2...should have the 0 installed by default...i dunno what else would account for that unless you bent something up...i think hobbyetc makes aluminum arms but they are insanely priced like the rest of their stuff...

manifolds, yeah, thats the regular kyosho one you describe...that guy has one of the older optional ones that uses the regular straight coupler...i just thought it was kind of a nice touch, though it's not something i would spend money for..eheh

and yes, thats a K&N, he got that one off ebay (and paid too much..SHAME)

and nice find on those tires...little more realistic price and i do like that pattern...much sexier than the rally blocks...ehehe

ecatbox

04-28-2002, 09:49 AM

7-8mm is a little much, especially if its all coming from one wheel...make sure that front bulkhead isn't cracked, put it back on and take out your straightedge...something isn't right and if it's that drastic it should be noticeable...i'm assuming the chassis is still more or less flat...

3434

04-28-2002, 01:18 PM

I didn't buy the bell. It was getting close to the price of the whole assembly. Which is probably the easiest way to get more gear in it. I don't have a lot of movement my engine is kinda big. Next problem I can't use the front one-way ( DARN ). The ofna shaft is hugh about 10mm. If I could get it bored out it and have the kyo shaft pinned inside that might work. But there both hardened and I don't know anyone that can handle that task.

ecatbox

04-28-2002, 08:22 PM

ehehe i didn't think you did (hoped not anyway)...but you did pick up the 2 speed kit? i guess i will have to try it out also...15/19 sounds better and better...did you happen to note the price of replacement gears for it?

be nice if kyosho came back out with their fancy clutchbells...i'm still hoping the LM2 will inspire some more goodies we can use, or at least some more new bodies...think i will see if i can't acquire a LM2 manual just to see what kind of goodies are lurking on those back pages...

Redfox

04-29-2002, 08:45 AM

Ok i took the toe in out of the front wheels, and i took off the wheels i've been runnin and put on just the rims of another spare set that i have, and the car still does the weird steering thing.

I am convinced now that it's the rear left wheel that is causing all the trouble. I think i've bent the lower hingepin or maybe the lower arm is bent outta shape somehow. I'll try replacing them both and hopefully that'll fix it up.

Btw what is the product code for the replacement hingepins for the GP20? I think once these have been replaced the problem should be fixed up!

I got a question for you guys, what shock towers do you use?? I reckon the stock ones are waaaay too flimsy, cos the screw that attaches the shocks are like bent way up because the plastic has kinda bent outta shape. I might invest in some decent shock towers and bodyposts and some new shocks. I think that is what is in order. Btw, how much r CVEC pipes for .21 engines?? Where is the best place to buy them??

Chris =]

p.s. the steering is pretty good now. Not too much slop cos i tightened up the adjustable thingy attached to the servo saver. I might put on a new servo arm because the hole in it where control rod goes through is slightly too large and that is another slop factor.

3434

04-29-2002, 01:04 PM

Redfox
Check your wheel base side to side ( center of front axle to center of back axle). If you hit something in the front it might have shortened it on one side. And if you hooked a back wheel on something you probably lenghtened that side. Just check every thing over I'm sure you will find something bent.

3434

04-29-2002, 01:38 PM

Bukkake

He only had the 14-18 set at $19.99. It was not a fun time and I spent over an hour there. When I walked in the door I had a bird in my ear saying junk junk junk and herd that the whole time. I asked why and he said he had a 7.5 and could not put a two-speed in it and that made his ofna better. I asked if he raced and of course got no. Then I told him I have never seen an ofna at any of the local tracks in fact I have never seen them outside of this store. That got the owner involved. He said Kyosho had a bad name. And I said we both know why they have a bad name and he shuffled back to his cat box. If you said Tower in there twice he would have stroke!

Anyway I'm still looking I don't think the 7.5 will work. It looks like it moves things to far forward. And with this engine I don't have much room.

ecatbox

04-29-2002, 11:08 PM

hehehe...in his own little world he must be the king eh?

was working on the master parts list last night and today, think i have about half of towers inventory listed...gettin close to the end now though...led me to a couple of questions too if you will bear with me...

can i assume the point of the clutch nut included with the GTW-40 kit is to allow the use of the regular clutchbells? ie: does the 20 tooth one that comes with it use 5x10 bearings?

i also notice that the skyline body listed in the manual and on kyoshos site (KYOC2423 39483) is not the same as the "Altia" R34 one that they are selling now (KYOC2470 39983)...you have any idea if the two are any different? i have pics of the older mercedes and alfa 155 esprit bodies but never seen the old skyline (i think it would kill me if your $25 one is some R32 DTM style or something eheh)

and lastly, not to get you worked up again but since you have both the superten and landmax, how close is the superten 2 speed bell to what we want? reason i ask is that in towers description of the inferno optional single speed bells they mention they can be used on the supertens...and i know that the supertens have an optional 2 speed clutchbell with screw on teeth in a nice assortment (SU-01, SU-03 through 17)...so that little turd of hope in my heart wonders if superten 2 speed's bell would not be too long nor short nor oddly spaced to fit our needs...i noticed the superten 2 speed looks kinda like a mini version of ours so i would hope the gap between the two spurs would be pretty close, tower says the clutch bell's teeth are 7mm wide which is spot-on...so maybe with a little shimming it may work? tell me what you think and if you think it's possible i know somebody who will be ordering this week...ehehe...highest possible gearing would be 17/20 with stock 50/53 but you could still use your one-way...

again, i appreciate your help with the ofna thing...it's nice to have somebody to talk shop with too..ehehe...i also have some good news for you...you can use those BS-14 after all...you just have to get 2 KYOC3306/BS-41 "Diff Housing"s ($3 each) and you can bolt up the BS-14s or the BSW-1 and 2 hard steel bevel gears...i noticed while working on the parts list that the BSW-2 (big bevel) didn't have the "end cap" of the dx type gears either...and i have been wondering what that little sucker was since i bought it too...tower says it is required when you buy the little hub (BSW-34) that allows you to run steel spur gears, which is not the case...its for running the steel BEVEL gears...its also very pretty shiny aluminum...well worth $6 to run those BS-14s eh? just wish i had figured it out before now..ehehe...btw, the BS-14s, BS-121s and BSW-01/02 are all identical teethwise...15/43...i counted the first two (used a sharpie ehh) and will take towers word for the last one...

now for chris-

shaft set is KYOC5662/BS-13 (about $20)

Qty Description
8 3mmx28mm suspension shaft
8 3mmx43mm suspension shaft
2 4mmx78mm suspension shaft
2 4mmx67mm suspension shaft

that will do ya unless all you need is the 3x43 (outside lower) in which case all you need is the KYOC6048/GT-48 which is much cheaper ($3) and includes 4 of the 3x39 bolt thing which replaced the 3x43 hingepin...if you just need one of the longer ones (inside lower), let me know and i can mail you one gratis...

hang on for a little while for the answer to your shock tower question...see if i can finish this monster list tonight...

and i buy all my cvecs on ebay of course! retail is normally $60 but they go for typically $40-50 on the 'bay...your best bet is probably a local place (or at least in aus..ehehe)..you familiar with http://dawntrading.com.au ? i ran across their page a while back, might be a good parts source for you as they carry a lot of kyosho...dunno if they have cvecs though...

ecatbox

04-30-2002, 04:02 AM

not totally finished yet but close enough for gubbamint work...

http://***********/gp20/GP-20-parts.txt

Redfox

04-30-2002, 05:48 AM

Wow bukkake! that's some list you got there! I'm sure that'll come in very useful in the future for all of us landmax owners! =]

Well today i replaced the rear left lower arm and when i was doing it i found that the main hingepin was fine, but the outer lower pin was bent. So i just bent it straight again. I did as 3434 suggested and i measured the wheelbase, and both sides are exactly the same!

But when i took it out for a run today the car still pulled right! I found that if i trim it a little left then it seems to balance better between pulling right and then left when i hit the brakes. So it's bearable for the time being.

I lost the roller clutch bearing today cos i didn't realise that you needed the screw that holds in the fan pulley to hold the whole damn clutch together! So i think the e-ring must've popped off somewhere and goodbye roller clutch bearing! Hehehe anywayz i'm gonna replace that wiv three 5x8x2.5 bearings and that should work ok right?

I've made the decision to convert to an onroad car. (I was just wishing today that i had a CNC mill setup for making aluminium parts! How cool would that be!!!) I bought the front bumper for the GP20, the one which the foam bumper is mounted onto. I will make my own foam bumper cos i have some HD foam lying around somewhere. You wouldn't believe how much i paid for the bumper tho! AU$34.95!!!!!! that is like US$17 or something crazy like that. Just for a piece of plastic. But i guess i couldn't be bothered to make it out of aluminium.

I came across one problem tho, the plastic bumper protrudes out the front of the escort body that i have on it! Hehehe infact it kinda looks really cool, almost as if it has a splitter on the front! But then i figured that even though it looks cool, the foam wouldn't fit on inside the body, and if you put a smaller piece of foam on, then it wouldn't do much in the way of absorbing shock! So ummmmm suggestions anyone?? I was thinking of getting the skyline body when i make it onroad, and that being a longer body would mean it would fit nicely over the bumper. But i just can't bring myself to spend US$77 on a body!

So that brings me to my next question... where can i find some decent lookin 1/8th scale bodies that would fit the landmax but are cheaper than the kyosho ones???

Well those are my observations for today!! I'm gonna try to get that stupid steering right again tomorrow arvo. Hobbyetc has great parts (like the CF shock towers) but it's just so damn expensive that i can't bring myself to even consider getting it! I think i'm gonna have to resort to making my own parts! hehehe =]

I want a CNC mill damnit!!!

Ok, btw thanks so much for your help bukkake and 3434... much appreciated from a newbie like me who is still learnin the ropes! =]

Later pplz...

Chris