GS Racing Storm and Storm Pro

[FrankT]

where's the best place to order those pipes..
thanks

[UberGamer256]

NationalRC.com (http://www.nationalrc.com) :) If ya order.. write "Ross sent me" in the notes part of your order please ;-)

[charly]

Reading some other threads i guess i found the right word, so here is the question again:
it's a bit loose; is that something you see on your cars ? (storms or other brands)

[alanlefler]

Are adjustments to the diffs made only by changing the oil weights,and if so are the weights reccomended in the instruction manual (front-5000/center-7000/rear-1000 good for most racing conditions?
Thanks,
~Dale~

[FrankT]

well everyone here is the new pipe...
Thanks for the help

[UberGamer256]

Looks awesome Frank! Is that the air filter that came on the Storm?

[FrankT]

yes,thanks I can't wait to run it.I still have to finish breaking it in this weekend.
Thanks Frank

[UberGamer256]

Really? Thats the filter that came on it brand new? Wow... thats another running change i guess. The old filter wasnt sheilded like that one is.

[FrankT]

the only thing that I changed was the pipe,added a fuel filter and changed the on/off switch to JR to work with the dynamite receiver pack.

[UberGamer256]

Originally posted by alanlefler
Are adjustments to the diffs made only by changing the oil weights,and if so are the weights reccomended in the instruction manual (front-5000/center-7000/rear-1000 good for most racing conditions?
Thanks,
~Dale~

Yes, and if your are on a high tracktion track.. you might see more steering if you jumped to 3000 oil in front. And some people like JT-6 grease in the rear diff.. but thats more of a prefrence. I run 3000/7000/1000

[tm4347]

Hello everyone! Is there a good receiver pack that fits into the radio box or should I put it elsewhere?

[Gmanlusk2004]

I just bought a storm rtr. What is the best upgrade for it? I have heard that the stock chassis on the rtr is pretty weak. I want to get the 7075 chassis. Is this a good idea? Also, i have seen several people put tie straps on their heat sink heads, what is this good for?
Thanks,
Garrett

[CyberISda]

I think i would recommend the Arm mounts front and rear coz they break a lot especially when you're racing. I have my friend here with a strom rtr and when he jump one time the plastic mount broke and he replace them with the alu mount from the pro and works fine up until now.

Hey guys I'm racing with my storm pro, i need some input which would be the best setup or shocks positioning to absorbed a bumpy tracks and of course to speed my steering.

[CyberISda]

also please help me with the fuel tank..keeps spilling all over and hell it s like a pool after the race.

help any one..

[FrankT]

2 questions- one is I'm on my last break in tank and man it run great,but I hear like a whining as the car comes towards me ,is this just normal.and my second question is I noticed the left rear hinge pin sliding out of the control arm. is that normal...
Thanks Frank

[FrankT]

anyone

[carlton eppes]

Tm 4347
I use a 3/2 style pack in my Storm it and the reciever fit just right in the radio box.

Gman
lower arm mounts first! If you don't do those then you may have no choice later on the chassis. Meaning mine (plastic mounts) kept coming loose and it finally tweaked and tore the ear on the chassis so I HAD to replce it.

Cyber
Take the tank out plug one of the nipples and put a piece of hose on the other one and blow in the hose enough to pressure the tank whie doing this put it under water and and look for bubbles. Don't hold the lid closed with your thumb because this could hide a leaky lid.

Frank T

check your gear mesh on the clutchbell to spur gear it sounds like it could be too tight. On the hinge pin check to be sure the set screw in the arm mount hasn't loosened up that is what keeps the pin in place.

[FrankT]

Thanks ,I'll check it out..

[Gmanlusk2004]

Back to my other question... what do those tie straps do on the heat sink head??? I've seen them everywhere... what are they for?
Thanks,
Garrett

[carlton eppes]

They are to keep from scratching up the top of the head when you get upside down.

[Gmanlusk2004]

oooooohhhh, alright, thanks a lot.
Are you the same guy that i sent an email to? my email is goldglovegarrett@aol.com
Later,
Garrett

[carlton eppes]

Yep :D

[Gmanlusk2004]

do you have AIM? if so what's your sn... mine is gmanlusk2004 (original huh?)

[carlton eppes]

Nope don't have AIM just IM. do you have IM?

[Gmanlusk2004]

IM? for what msn IM? or is it for AOL? AIM is Aol Instant Messenger

[FrankT]

the set screw was loose,but the gear mesh on the clutch bell seemed ok I slid a piece of paper right down them with no problem??
Thanks Frank

[carlton eppes]

IM = MSN internet messenger.

[Gmanlusk2004]

so what's your sn for MSN, i have it too... i'm not sure what my name is though... i think it's garrettlusk@hotmail.com

[Gmanlusk2004]

i have a question. How much runtime do you get on one tank of gas? I thought that it was around 8 minutes because of the 15 minute A mains have one pit stop. Also, i did some math and converted 125cc (the size of the tank) to fluid ounces (amount of liquid in a tank). so it's 125cc = 4.22 fl. oz
So i used 128oz (1 gallon) divided by 4.22oz (one tank of gas) which equaled 30.33175 (the number of tanks you can fill with one gallon) then multiplied that number by 8 (the number of minutes of run time on one tank) which is 242.654 (the number of minutes one gallon of fuel lasts) then divided this number by 60 (to find out how many hours 1 gallon of gas provides) which is about 4 hours to my calculations. The average engine life is 4 gallons of gas (6 if you are lucky) So if 8 minutes of run time per tank is true, then the life of a nitro engine is only 16 hours? (4 hours per gallon multiplied by 4 gallons for the engine life) tell me if i'm correct. Any help is... well, helpful.
Thanks,
Garrett

[UberGamer256]

5mins a tank.. unless your running lean.

And most .21's (RB and Novarossi) will last upwards of 10 gallons if taken care of.

[Gmanlusk2004]

i'm talkin bout the stock GS B01 engine that comes with the rtr.

[alanlefler]

I done the break-in on my engine (stock B01) with the body off. It seems the engine maintained a temp of 225-250 degrees. Yesterday I ran with the body on for the first time and noticed about a 20-30 degree increase in run temp and was wondering if that was normal and what is considered normal and above-normal running temps for this engine. Also my header burned a hole in the body,so I trimmed some of the rear body off.
Thanks,
~Dale~

[FrankT]

you know what I just got done runnig my storm ,and it to was the first tank after the break in with the body on.it ran about 230-240 and also burned a hole in my body too....Oh well I gess..
Frank

[Gmanlusk2004]

where is the hole that is burned in? I get mine from UPS on Monday. Isn't there a hole already cut in the body where the heat sink head is? explain please.
Thanks,
Garrett

[FrankT]

on the left rear of the body where the header is.

[Gmanlusk2004]

ohhh... i see now... would there be a way for me to prevent that (getting mine monday)?
Thanks,
Garrett

[FrankT]

just trim the body away from the header and you'll be fine.I had mine out today WOW what a blast to drive...

[Gmanlusk2004]

awesome... also, this is my first nitro vehicle (5 electrics) is the engine easy to tune compared to other engines... i've read on how to break it in and i'm not worried about that at all, it's just i don't wanna mess it up.
Thanks,
Garrett

[CyberISda]

Where i can buy upgrade for my storm online? This is from fioroni

GS "Storm" Decomposable Middle Ergal Supports with Upper Brake Plate



http://www.generalsilicones.com/fioroni/images/OT-GS05.jpg

[Gmanlusk2004]

tu necesito comprar al www.horizonhobby.com
Adios,
Garrett

[Stormin]

Does anyone know the difference between the RTR stock shocks and the optional High Performance Shocks? What makes them so "High Performance"?

[UberGamer256]

The High Performance shocks are just a name for the Pro kit shocks. They are alot better though.. they have 7075 hard annodized and teflon coated bodys and all alu caps with bleed holes. They will last and look alot better then the RTR shocks.

[Spurdog28]

Gmanlusk2004

The engine is very easy to tune. Do not change the Low end needle just the high end until you learn about it.



alanlefler

The body holds more heat in so it will run hotter. If tunning for a race w/o the body warm the engine to about 30 degrees lessthen what you want it to be. The body and more rigorous driveing will make it hotter. No matter how much tunning I do my motor is always at about 300 after a race. It does "hurt" it too much but it will shorten the life of the piston & sleeve. But at this temp in my area and based on other conditions it is almost unbeatable, w/ a Dynamite pipe it has decent low end and decent high end.


Stormin

The shock diff is in the bodies and the caps. The caps are one piece aluminum (not plastic), and the bodies have a ring to help them seat better. Hope it helps.


FYI...

The stock motor tends to have more high end.

[UberGamer256]

Ha! I beat you! lol!!! :D

[KIRK S. DECKER]

CyberISda

With the storm rtr the first option parts i would look into are replacement shock towers (the kits one are junk and will bend after the first crash, especilly the rear). I replaced mine with titanium ones from Hardcore but nice 7075 alum will work too...but if you replace the shock towers with stronger ones then you will definitly need bulkhead braces..here's why...with less flex found in your shock towers the next part to take the brunt is the bulkheads, specfically the shock tower/bulkhead interface...this will splinter like a match stick with a bad crash. Solution is to buy the fironi rear bulkhead brace or do what I did and fabricate your own with a piece of angle aluminum stock machined with a dremel tool to fit nice and look trick (plus cost less than $2.50 for material). The front bulkhead will also snap (mine did). There is not any available front bulk braces (to my knowledge) so you are left with fabricating your own...again using alum. angle but with a little more dremel (or hack saw/file) work to make it fit. I will try to get pics of my homemade parts on this thread if I can find someone to let me use their digital camera. Aluminum is easy to work with and even with some simple tools (and lots of patience) you can produce parts that look "factory". for more info. check out this site ( www.twf8.ws/new/vote.html )under tips, custom projects. Also check out the review of the storm on this site. it shows where to put the rear bulkhead brace (with a photo). The author uses a piece of square nylon for his brace but I think aluminum looks more trick!

Sorry for all the rambling, but since i made these additions to my storm ihave not had anything break and I have really put a beating (jumps, crashes, etc) on this buggy. Another part(s) worth replacing are the stock plastic suspension hingepin holders with either GS alum. or ones from Dynamite...sooner or later these will break, especially with high flying jumps.

Other option parts look trick but are not necessary if you're just interested in bashing your buggy without having to stop because of a broken part. Hope this was of some help. Anyone have any more comments on what option parts are needed most and give you the best "bang for your buck"?

[UberGamer256]

Kirk... the solution to fix the bulkhead problems is to get the new Pro shock towers and the new updated Bulkheads.

You WONT break them ever again.. trust me..

[Epinephrine]

I am getting a RTR Storm and wanted to know what diff fluid to use on a loose dirt track? Are the bulkheads the same front and rear? I have used the Fioroni part numbers for the shock towers and rear bulkhead brace but Horizan turn up nothing, so could you tell me what they are under in the GS parts listing? Are the stock tires good for loose tracks? How hard is it to get to the diffs and how do oyu fill them? Do I have to clean out the grease, or can I just fill em up? Do the new RTR's come with diff fluid or still grease? THANKS!

[Stormin]

Filling your diffs with fluid really isn't that hard. I had never done it before and was able to fill all three of my diffs in just a 2-3 hours. If I had to do it again it wouldn't take long at all. I just followed the manual backwards until I had the diff out of the bulkheads. There was very little grease in mine so I didn't bother getting it all out. I use the standard 5000 front, 7000 center, 1000 rear that is quoted in the manual. I'd start with that and then start experimenting. Diff fluid is pretty inexpensive.

[tm4347]

Hello everyone! I put my Storm through hell this weekend at a local bmx track and bent the shock towers into submission. Any tips for aftermarket towers and where to purchase would be great, thanks.

[Epinephrine]

Hardcore Racing makes titanium shock towers and other parts for the Storm. www.racinghardcore.com

[Epinephrine]

Hardcore Racing makes titanium shock towers and other parts for the Storm. www.racinghardcore.com

[UberGamer256]

Dont get any other shock towers besides the GS ones right now.. because they are (to my knowledge) the only ones updated for the new bulkheads.

[tm4347]

What do you mean Uber? Do you mean the bulkheads on my rtr will only accept GS parts or should I also buy new bulkheads. Should I get the ones(towers) for the pro, if so where, I couldn't find anything at horizon? Thanks.

[Epinephrine]

Stormer Hobbies has all the GS parts, Hardcore Parts, and Dynamite parts for the Storm. Uber yeah, waht do you mean?

[Stormin]

All of the shock towers will work with your bulkheads. But the GS pro towers are the only ones that will utilize those extra support ears on either side of the bulkhead.

[Epinephrine]

If I just use the stock shock towers will I need to buy the rear bulkhead brace? There are only 4, 8 inch high jumps before the first turn and then a 10 foot long, 3 foot high tabletob on the back stretch. I am new to nitro and dont drive the best. I rarely flip but sorta like dont turn sharp enough and I like "ride" the wall and track.


I have heard that GS released a new bulkhead but I dont know when. I am buying my buggy in about a week, will it have the "new" bulkhead on it?


Also, I cant seem to get an answer to this: what wt oil should I use in my diffs for a loose, tight turn track? I was thinking 5k front, 7k center, 1k rear but I have no experience with buggies so I dont know.

[Stormin]

I'm sorry my last post was a little confusing. I meant to say "The GS pro towers are the only ones that will utilize those extra support ears on either side of the NEW bulkhead."

For a beginner I think the stock towers will work fine, unless you abuse the car or have some horrific crash like I did. Just wait until you bend one and then upgrade both.

Your new buggy will have the new bulkhead. I got mine in June and it has the new ones. You can tell if you have the new one buy the little piece of plastic sticking out on either side of the rear bulkhead just above the axles. Your stock tower doesn't come all the way down and connect into the holes. You'll will be able to figure it out when you get your car.

I just did the standard 5k, 7k, 1k for diff oil. I didn't really notice a difference on the track between having and not having the diffs filled with oil. This probably because I'm still not very good at driving at the track.

[Stormin]

It seems like everybody is freakin out about the new rear bulkhead and which towers work with it. I can understand why people are confused. The dynamite , fioroni, hardcore and GS stock and pro towers will all fit on the new bulk head. You can physically use anyone you want. But currently only the GS pro towers hang low enough on each side of the bulkhead to attach to the new plastic.

[Epinephrine]

No I wasnt wondering about different shock towers. What I ment was that I have heard that unless you use the stock shock towers, you need the bulkhead brace otherwise the titanium or thicker aluminum shock towers will pass the strain of a landing to the bulkhead and bust the bulkhead. But if you use the stock shock towers, they will obsorb the shock more than the bulkhead. Is that true? Sorry about the confusion

[Stormin]

My bad, I misread your post and vented a little about the confusion on other forums. I'm sorry.

As far your question goes, I'm not really sure. I currently have upgraded towers and havn't had any problems. I'm getting the new braces as soon as horizon gets them in though.

[Epinephrine]

Do you ahve any idea when? Also, are the stock shock towers decently strong cuz I was gonna buy an extra set with my buggy but with the bulkhead brace is coming out at Horizan, I would like to wait and get the brace insted.

[Stormin]

I don't know what your budget is but the gs pro towers are like $16 for the front and $18 for the rear. That is not that expensive. The dynamite ones are ~$11 and $13. Don't bother getting another set of the stock towers.

[Epinephrine]

ok I think I'll do that.

[Epinephrine]

Also, is there a minimum track size for 1/8 scale tracks? My LHS track is small, the straight is only maybe 100-150ft. I know TMaxx's are 1/10 but there as long and wider than a buggy and they have no trouble on the track. Will my buggy suffer on the track? It has really sharp hairpin turns but the maxx's take them fine so why wouldnt a buggy? Anyway, I may have just answered my own question but no one at my track runs a buggy so I have no one to ask here. Thanks

[Stormin]

I just got back from the qualifiers for the 12th annual Kyosho nitro Challege here in St. Louis and i didn't see any Storms representin'. We need some storm pros to kick some Kanai ass.

Uber, why aren't you down here. Your sponsered by GS right?

[dkj-M3]

:eek:

[FlyinRazorback]

dkj-M3: no they aren't

Question: I have the Storm RTR and it won't stay running. The HSNV is at 2 1/2 turns and the LS has not been touched. The car cranks easy, idles fine, will run up to about 20 mph but when I go WOT it dies. Is it too lean? Any suggestions on how to fix it. Thanks in advance.

[Epinephrine]

yeah its too lean

[OmegaTrac]

Hey guys,
I may end up getting a used Storm RTR. The only damage is that the front bumper is a bit tweaked. The car has Picco .21 pullstart and a High Torgue JR Racing servo. Does this seem like an ok buggy? Is the Storm RTR pretty durable? What hopups does this thing need to be competitive against Ofnas and Kyoshos? Which hopups are a must? Are parts easy to come by?



What oil/grease should I run in the buggy for a loose/bumpy track?

[UberGamer256]

Oops.. forgot about this thread hehehe...

The new RTR's have new shock towers that utalize the new tabs on the bulkheads.. ive been told this.. but havnt seen a new RTR to actually witness it.. so take that with a grain of salt.

Good job answering some questions Mini-Me :) haha... its all good man ;)

[UberGamer256]

Flyin.. does it bog down and slowly die? Or does it sorta flame out?

Also.. what plug you running.. what kinda weather?

[FlyinRazorback]

I live in Memphis. It is hot (90-95) and very humid this time of year.

It was a Duratrax Carbon Speed (LHS said it was the same as an OS plug) that was in it. I chunked it and put in an OS #5 and went to right at 3 full turns out. It is running pretty good now but needs a little more tweaking I think. What plug do you recommend?

[FlyinRazorback]

Oh yeah,
It would just flame out. How does humidity affect it? I know I've read it somewhere but can't find where I read it :rolleyes:

[UberGamer256]

Yea.. sounds like it was too lean...

I run Novarossi Special 7 plugs. The best.. :)

[Epinephrine]

Originally posted by OmegaTrac
Hey guys,
I may end up getting a used Storm RTR. The only damage is that the front bumper is a bit tweaked. The car has Picco .21 pullstart and a High Torgue JR Racing servo. Does this seem like an ok buggy? Is the Storm RTR pretty durable? What hopups does this thing need to be competitive against Ofnas and Kyoshos? Which hopups are a must? Are parts easy to come by?



What oil/grease should I run in the buggy for a loose/bumpy track?

Man, those are questions you should ask BEFORE you buy it. YOu need no upgrades except you may wanna keep spare parts on hand incase you break something. Parts are easy to come by especially if your LHS supplyer is Horizon Hobbies. I hear that 5000 front, 10000 center, and 1000 rear is good for slick tracks. Grease is a waste.

[Gmanlusk2004]

GS is way better than ofna buggies, and it can hold it's own against the Mugens, and Kyoshos. If you put Yuchi Kanai on a Storm set up the exact same way he runs his car, he probably wouldn't notice a difference.
Later,
Garrett

[Gmanlusk2004]

what shock positions work well for you? I have the front at the inner for the top and the middle for the bottom. For the rear i have center on the top, and middle for the bottom. And swaybars??... good or bad?
Later, Garrett

[Epinephrine]

Is the GS RTR engine an SG shaft or threaded?

[Epinephrine]

C'mon people keep this thread going...

[stitch]

I got my storm pro started today and have started the break in "process". Have you guys personally heard any thing on these CMB engines, other than that thread here?

[UberGamer256]

The GS Engine is a SG Shaft.

I have some new pics of my Storm Pro guys.. click here to check them out. (http://www.teamurc.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=My_eGallery&file=index&do=showgall&gid=10)

Sorry i havnt been around on here AGAIN.. lol.. for some reason i havnt been getting the "New Message" e-mails from this forum.

[Epinephrine]

You probably already checked this but, goto your option thing and see if you turned em off. And if you got the Pro and RTR why dont you make a review and put it on your site? Or even if you have the RCCA review.

[CyberISda]

Really pissed me off on this bulkhead issue, mine was breaked a lot and i've been working on all things not to be broken but still broken. I'm racing around here and i can't jump on quads or tripple coz i'm afraid they will break again. I did everything like lowering the wings and put some long screws but still d same.

Since i can't do anything about this bulkhead, probably someone tell me the settings on the front shock alignment on the shock tower, which upper hole and which lower hole should and also the rear shock setting so it will jump straight and not diving or flip on the air. I wanted a setup that's fast in cornering.

If someone can tell me then i'm sure this will fix the bulkhead issue. Anyway mine is storm pro.

[CyberISda]

Currently using this setup on my pro but still diving..though cornering is excellent

Shock connection points top position - in the front - lower row middle hole
Shock connection points top position - in the rear - lower row one hole from the outside.
Lower shock connection points front and rear in the middle position.

HELP:(

[UberGamer256]

Get the new Shock towers and updated bulkheads.. you wont have any problems..

The nose is diving off of jumps? I would try giving it a little more preload in the front. Other people know more about shock angles then me.... lol I do know that standing them up will be better for the bumps.. and laying them down will give you more side bite in corners. Laying them down also makes them stiffer.

[tm4347]

Hello everyone! You know those little metal washers under the pistons in the rtr shocks that bend and cone and eventually slide on the shaft? Can I get those somewhere or do I need to buy all new shocks to get them? Are the pro shocks washers any better or does another company make better shocks altogether? Also if I get pro shocks which ones are the same size as the rtr's, long, medium, or short? Thanks.

[UberGamer256]

Rear shocks are Long.. front are Medium. I am not sure if the washer are avalible yet... but i will find out and get back to ya. Or at least try.. hehe

I have been told that the Pro washers are differant.. but thats probably wrong. I belive Kyosho uses the same type of washers.. so maybe you can get them from Kyosho??

[CyberISda]

Hey Uber, I have no news on new bulkhead of Storm pro but i recently bought a bulkhead on horizonhobby but the old one that i have is this same. On the shock towers, what's the diff with the tower that i have on the kit and the new one? If you knew the part number can you post it here?

Thanks

[UberGamer256]

The bulkheads you have.. do they have small tabs on the sides of them?

[Stormin]

Here is the new bulkhead with the tabs on the side:

[Stormin]

Here are what the new GS pro towers look like that utilize the tabs on the new bulkhead. This is just the rear tower but the front tower looks similar. As far as we know the other manufacturers of storm towers (dynamite, fioroni and hardcore racing) have not updated their towers to utilize the tabs on the new bulkhead. That why we say to just get the GS pro towers.

[Stormin]

Here's the fioroni rear tower. Notice that it doesn't have holes hanging low enough to utilize the tabs on the new bulkhead.

[UberGamer256]

Mini-Me... where did you get that pic?? LOL.. i saw it before.. but couldnt find it again.

[Stormin]

I got the bulkhead pic from stormerhobbies.com. They have pics for most of the standard storm equipment. No pics for the upgraded storm parts though.

Got the tower pics from http://www.three5models.co.uk/gs_options.htm

[Stormin]

Uber, think everyone will understand now?

[Stormin]

Uber got a question for ya. My engine won't start and I can't figure out why. I havn't used it for like 2.5 weeks because I was outta town and so before that I put alot of afterrun oil in it because I knew I was not going to use it for a while. I tried starting it yesterday and it wouldn't start. I changed the plug out and still won't start. The old plug was obviously dead because the coil was all burned up. Well I pulled the new plug out today, I notice that there was a lip on one side of the hole where the plug goes and I can feel the lip with my finger. Is it possible that I miss thread the plug and screwed up the threads? Maybe its not getting compression now because of it.

[CyberISda]

I got it and didn't notice the ear like on the bulkhead but let me take a look. On the shock tower, is this available on horizonhobby and also if you have the parts number can you post it here..i might buy that one looks tough :D

[Stormin]

The part numbers for the GS pro towers are GSCSTP08 for the Front and GSCSTP09 for the Rear. Yes, you can get these from horizonhobby.

[Stormin]

Ok, I got my engine running. Not sure what the problem was yesterday but I put it on the starter box today and it started right up. It does seem to have a high idle temperature though.

Question: What stable idle temperature are other people having once the engine is warmed up?

Mine seemed to be idling up around 220-240. That seemed to high so I richened it up and it still maintained those temperatures. I thought that 240-250 was good operating temperature when you are going full throttle.

[Epinephrine]

You guys know a place that has the pro towers in stock? Horizon is backordered on front and rear and Stormer is backoredered on the rear.

[Stormin]

Stormerhobbies and Horizonhobbies are the only two I know of that sell GS parts online.

[Epinephrine]

Got any idea how long it may take for them to get the parts back in?

[Stormin]

I just checked horizon and they have both front and rear towers in stock!

[tm4347]

I just ordered the pro towers at Horizon an they're on their way.

[Epinephrine]

Sweet they also finally have the GS diff lube.

[Epinephrine]

What is a glowplug that Horizon carries that is hot enough for a .21? The Dynamite MC59 power plugs are not hot enough and its really screwing up all the buggies out there. We have to retune the engine to a new glow plug every 30 minutes.

[UberGamer256]

Ephine.. you mean exactly the oppsite. The 59's are too hot for .21

You want a cold plug.. Like the MC9 or MC8 or, my favorite, the Novarossi Special 7 Gold.

[BostonBullit]

hey all,

i'm new to the RC Nitro world, only had experience with the tyco style stuff when I was a kid years ago. I picked up a GS Storm RTR the other night after doing some research here and on other sites, and talking to people at a couple of (not so)local hobby shops. I was leaning towards the Ofna Ultra Max RTR but looked at them both at the shop and decided the Storm looked better overall. I went through the break in procedure yesterday following the directions in the manual and that all went fairly well. then me and some buddies took the car to a large open field and tore a** around having some fun. man is this car fast and fun to drive!! I've burned through about 1/2 gallon of 20% fuel in two days :D I have some questions that I'm hoping someone here can help me with though...

1)unfortunately I live in the city so I have to be a bit aware of the noise level. are there any mufflers out there that fit the storm that will knock the decibel level down a bit while not killing the performance?

2)what's the best way to prime the motor with fuel (ie get fuel from the tank to the carb) before starting it?

I'm sure i wanted to ask more but that's all that comes to mind right now....oh well, the board will still be here when I remember the rest...too much nitro fumes I guess :p

thanks,
BostonBullit

[Stormin]

1) I hear dynamite has a fairly inexpensive pipe that is much better on the ears yet still provides some punch. I guess they have two. A sport for about $20 and a competition for about $30.

2) To prime the engine, I just pull the fuel tube from the tuned pipe and blow. I know it sounds bad, but it works.

[TitansGT4]

i might buy one of these, are they ne good?

[UberGamer256]

Buying the Sport Dynamite pipe would be pointless.. its the same one as the GS pipe. I would REALLY suggest a RB/Novarossi pipe.. the 86 or 63 can be had for about $55. They are arguably the best. Much quiter too.

Best way i know prime it.. just hold your finger over the exhaust and crank it over a few times.

[Epinephrine]

Originally posted by Stormin
To prime the engine, I just pull the fuel tube from the tuned pipe and blow. I know it sounds bad, but it works.

Isnt that kinda stupid? The fuel contains some deadly **** and I dont think you'd want it in your mouth. Plus you also ruin the end of the hose by pulling it off all the time.

[Gmanlusk2004]

Epinephrine... you obviously don't have a nitro car do you? I have read a bunch of your posts and it seems as if you have no knowlege of Nitro cars, if even any of RC all together! I don't mean to bash on you, but how could the fuel get to your mouth if you take off the tubing from the pipe? he didn't say take the tubing off the carb and suck... he said to remove the tubing from the pipe and BLOW! :rolleyes: O well, i bet you are looking at buying a Storm, and you have never even seen one except at your LHS if you have ever even been there.
Annoyed,
Garrett

[Epinephrine]

Did you ever think there could be oil and fuel residue on the outside of the hose??? Every nitro car I have ever seen has had oil residue and fuel residue on the pipe nipple and the outside of the hose.

[BostonBullit]

Originally posted by Epinephrine
Did you ever think there could be oil and fuel residue on the outside of the hose??? Every nitro car I have ever seen has had oil residue and fuel residue on the pipe nipple and the outside of the hose.

I'm not saying that i want to be blowing on the exaust pipe or the tank pressure line, but i'm also not hearing you offering a better way to get the fuel pushed from the tank to the carb....

BostonBullit

[Stormin]

Guys its not that bad. Its actually good for you to blow in the tube. The fuel sterlizes your mouth and lips and then the oil lubricates your lips like chapstick. It great.

Blowing in the fuel line from the pipe is the easiest way if you are having to pull start the engine. I think it would be pretty hard to cover the exhaust tip, pull the cord, steady the car and give it a little throttle all at once.

I've got a starter box so I guess I will try Uber's suggestion of covering the exhaust tip.

[BostonBullit]

Originally posted by Stormin
Blowing in the tube from the pipe is the easiest way if you are having to pull start the engine. I think it would be pretty hard to cover the exhaust tip, pull the cord, steady the car and give it a little throttle all at once.

maybe I'll rig up a little squeeze bulb dealie to pressurize the tank and push the fuel to the carb for me....

I think I'll go with Uber's suggestion and try one of the RB pipes, can anyone give me an estimate of how much quiter the car will be (like noise reduced by blah%)? the good hobby shops are like 45mins-1hr away from where I live so you guys are my best source of info! :D

also, has anyone tried out the torson diffs in their Storm RTR? the mag add says you can get like 70% increase in traction by replacin the center and front diffs with these units, anyone done it to find out?

BostonBullit

[FlyinRazorback]

Just put your finger over the pipe and pull 2-3 times on the starter. BTW, do NOT do this with the glow starter on the glow plug. Also, let the lid on the tank slam down a couple of times. Should start first or second pull every time if you do these 2 things. At least, mine does.

[Epinephrine]

Why not do it with the glow igniter on the glow plug? Everyone here does that and they always seem to start on the 1-2 pull.

[Epinephrine]

Originally posted by BostonBullit


I'm not saying that i want to be blowing on the exaust pipe or the tank pressure line, but i'm also not hearing you offering a better way to get the fuel pushed from the tank to the carb....
BostonBullit

I dont need to, you already know what it is...

[Gmanlusk2004]

if you have the heater on the plug, the engine may start. You don't wanna have your finger on a hot pipe...
Later,
Garrett

[CyberISda]

I'm just wondering when would GS torsen diff will be available beside fioroni? Fioroni is too expensive. Any i dea where i can find them? :cool:

[Epinephrine]

My LHS said that there are some for 110 but they didnt say who made them.

[Epinephrine]

Is everyone dead?:confused:

[Stormin]

I was wondering what the best front support plate would be for an RTR. I hit the tire of a non-moving car and the front support brace came off the ball after bending the front support plate a little at that point.

So I'm getting new aluminum front and rear chassis braces but not sure about the front plate. Is the graphite one strong? I was thinking of getting the dynamite 7075 aluminum one thinking it would be stronger.

[dsnF1]

I think you may want to look at pipes that are made for the European noise restrictions. I believe they are 3-chambered pipes. I am pretty sure the RB #1350-9901 is made just for this reason.

Derek

[Epinephrine]

Originally posted by Stormin
I was wondering what the best front support plate would be for an RTR. I hit the tire of a non-moving car and the front support brace came off the ball after bending the front support plate a little at that point.

So I'm getting new aluminum front and rear chassis braces but not sure about the front plate. Is the graphite one strong? I was thinking of getting the dynamite 7075 aluminum one thinking it would be stronger.

Graphite is only for die hard racers who dont crash. Graphite isnt even as strong as nylon. Get the Dynamite/GS PRO aluminum or go Hardcore and get titanium.

[Stormin]

There's a GS PRO aluminum front support plate? I thought GS only had the RTR aluminum and the PRO graphite. Do you know what the part number is for the PRO aluminum one?

[BostonBullit]

Time for a stupid newbie tuning question! :rolleyes:

ok, I have done the engine break in and put another few tanks of fuel through my Storm RTR and am having a blast, but it's time to actually tune the engine ;) I adjusted the big screw sticking outta the carb (high speed needle?) while doing the breakin, but now i need to adjust the idle and low end as well. I know that the high speed needle will need to be adjusted more but I'm trying to get a handle on things before I do anything. my question is where are the low speed and idle adjusting screws? I have looked at the diagram in the user manual and it lists the idle screw in the list but it's nowhere to be found in the pic. :mad:

I have one screw in a brass sleeve sticking outta the carb which I believe to be the top end/high speed needle adjustment. I have another screw horizontally under that one on the carb body, and I have third little screw in the end of the throttle linkage boot. can anyone tell me which dang screw is which and what the best order of adjustements is (once you finish shaking your heads and sighing)??

BostonBullit

[modelcar]

Hi Stormin,
look at this:
http://www.fioroni.com/index_eng.asp?a=scheda&id=5878

It comes from fioroni.com web site, Fioroni distributor for USA is General Silicones.
Hope this can help you.

Bye,
Modelcar

[modelcar]

Image:

Bye,
Modelcar

[modelcar]

Hi guys,
fioroni has updated front/rear storm towers to utilize the tabs on the new bulkhead.
No photos availables jet but only new towers are now available from fioroni company.

Bye,
Modelcar

[BostonBullit]

hey all,

could anyone please tell me the length of the receiver antenna on the Storm RTR? had a slight mishap with my car today and need to solder up a new one :rolleyes: :(

edit: my buggy is on channel 88

thanks,
BostonBullit

[Gmanlusk2004]

well boston, i think you are in some $#!t. I have no clue on what you need to do for your antenna. But as for your engine, well the high speed needle is the "brass sleeve" you were explaining. The Idle set screw is the screw coming out of the carb body just above the flywheel. And the low end needle is the screw on the inside of the throttle linkage boot.
Just some tips, and advice... DO NOT MESS WITH THE LOW END!!! It comes set from the factory. I had problems with my idle set screw being too low, i have mine almost all the way in (high idle) because whenever i applied the brakes, the engine would die because the carb would close all the way up.
L8r,
Garrett

[BostonBullit]

Originally posted by Gmanlusk2004
well boston, i think you are in some $#!t. I have no clue on what you need to do for your antenna. But as for your engine, well the high speed needle is the "brass sleeve" you were explaining. The Idle set screw is the screw coming out of the carb body just above the flywheel. And the low end needle is the screw on the inside of the throttle linkage boot.
Just some tips, and advice... DO NOT MESS WITH THE LOW END!!! It comes set from the factory. I had problems with my idle set screw being too low, i have mine almost all the way in (high idle) because whenever i applied the brakes, the engine would die because the carb would close all the way up.
L8r,
Garrett

Thanks Garrett! that's what I thought the needle config was but I didn't want to go turning anything until I got confirmation. I had the car out today and got it running pretty nicely by tweeking the high speed needle (only one I was sure about), not an optimal tune but it had good accelleration and didn't cut out. unfortunately my antenna mishap stopped further tuning :(

I know that antenna length is important (at least it was in the AM radio days) so that's why I am trying to find out what the stock length was. I have what I think is all of the antenna so I'm close, but I would like someone to confirm if possible.

thanks again,
BostonBullit

[Stormin]

I wouldn't say never adjust with the low end needle.

I have been messing around with the low end needle and have gotton very positive results. I'm getting a quicker transition between low and high rpm. It idles a little higher now but but that helps acceleration from a dead stop.

[dkangel]

OK.
Just bought the GS used on a good deal. Have been romping around with it for a few days now. The engine was finiky on tuning the first few days but I have it dialed now. losing compression so I am runningat 25% nitro. Runs fine. if it stalls I have to wait till it cools down a little before restarting, but I dig the car.
Now the real problem....Dunno if anyone else has had these issues but feedback would be helpful......
-Chassis broke at the rear screw positions. Broke out to the side where the metal it thinner and close to the edge. I was thinking of making a plate and using longer screws.... Good Idea? or not?
-Rear Shock (stock) internal piston ring came free off the piston rod. There is a metal washer that holds this in place and that had come free off the piston as well.
Other than above and some missing screws and bent shock towers, and screws, broken tabs for the rear wing this car FLIES...
What parts should I be looking at to upgrade?

[Stormin]

Broken Chassis: I havn't had this problem but I heard it only occurs on the early versions of the car and has since been corrected. Its kinda expensive but just get a new chassis. Dynamite makes one for around $60 and then there is the GS pro one (GSCSTP05) for about $86 and the Fioroni version. If you are not doing a lot of racing the stock GS chassis or Dynamite will work just fine.

Rear Shock shim: I had this same problem on my rear shock. The shim under the piston that holds it to the shaft bent and cracked off. I wasn't able to just replace the shim so I bought a new pair of shocks. Its always useful to have some extra shock parts.

The number 1 part to upgrade would be the shock towers. Get the GS pro shock towers part#'s GSCSTP08 and GSCSTP09. They are much stronger, you won't ever bend these.

Also make sure your diffs are filled.

[dkangel]

Stormin - thanks for the reply.... (sorry bout the double post at maxxtraxx). I am thinking of getting the Hinge Pin replacements I saw on EBay today. Theye replace the stock hinge pins as a one piece U-Bracket. has to be stronger.
Also decided to make my own Galvanized rear chassis plate.
Basically making it bullet proof. Wil post pics when completed this week end......
By the way... Will parts form the Ofna or the Muegen fit the GS?
Just curios as there seem to be more parts and availability on parts for those cars.... :eek:

[UberGamer256]

Hey guys... Im back.. hehe. Had some computer troubles, but its sorted out now.


dk: No Mugen and Ofna parts (at least most of them) arn't interchangable.

modelcar: Thanks for informing us. How recent is this? Is it just on the stuff thats shipping right now? Or were these changes made a while ago?

Stormin: Just go with the GS Graphite. It shouldnt break and its LIGHT. Looks great too ;-)

Ephine: Graphite is VERY strong.. it just depends on how thick it is. It doesnt have a give tendancy like Nylon or Aluminum.. so it snaps rather then bending or flexing. In certain places.. it works just as good if not better. And the lost weight is always nice too.

[modelcar]

Fioroni option parts are update as soon as new parts are released from GS, this why Fioroni is the distributor of GS for Italy and they have very closed relationship with GS.
All GS Factory driver around the world are using Fioroni parts like Torsen diff, plates, chassis.....
About availability of the Fioroni parts in USA you must contact GS Racing:
www.generalsilicones.com/index_rc.html
E-mail: rcsales@generalsilicones.com

Bye,
Modelcar

[Stormin]

You can order fioroni parts in the US from rcdiscounters.com!

[Stormin]

Hey Uber I had a problem with my springs to the hogh performance shocks I bought. Does this seem right to you?

[UberGamer256]

Modelcar: I know all that stuff :-) Hell i know everyone that works at GS USA.. lol I was just asking when Fioroni made the change to their stuff.

Stormin: Just use the springs you got with the kit. I think they are shorter cause they are dual rate springs.. but i really dont know.. ive wondered about that before too. You can use the rears in the front if ya really feel the need too.

[Stormin]

If they are dual rate springs, the kit should come with those optional small springs, part # GSC68020.

To use those springs I have to use one of those large adjustment clips just to get the spring to work correctly. It just doesn't seem right and I'm not to happy with it. I'm thinking about trying the Mugen big bore shocks.

[dkangel]

o.k.
My home made rear chassis stiffner works great. much stronger.
Don't think its comming apart again. will build the same for the front end as well. I will post pics for those interested when I can.
Now as far as a pipe,
I need to get a quieter pipe on my Storm. We use them outside the office and getting complaints from the noise.
What would be a decent pipe (quieter) to use without sacrificing performance that much???
Any help greatly appreciated.... :)

[dkangel]

Hey I think I also fixed my rear blown shock problem as well.
Dissasembled the shocks and one of them had the shim and piston pushed loose.
I rebuilt them flattening out the shim a little for a tighter fit on the piston rod, then using a dremel made a small groove around the rod and slipped on a C clip. Now its tight with no play and seems to be holding up very well...
Just my .02$

[fearsome]

Hi all,

Has anyone experience the holes in the chassis were the lower sus. arm block connects wearing out?

I have the Storm pro and have been racing with it for afew months now. We have 3 storm pros running at our club and all of us have the problem mentioned above.

I have already changed the screws used to connect the blocks to the chassis with longer ones and used nylon lock nut at the top. (this was one of the first things i changed when building the kit) I believe Philippe Lachat has done the same thing.

Becuase the chassis holes for the blocks are wearing, it is affecting the toe in/out. The version of GS pro i have is the new improved version blah blah blah....

[Stormin]

dkangel,
Hey could you post pictures on your new shim and piston setup. I just diassembled all of my RTR shocks and all of my shims are messed up.

I think these shocks definitly need to be reengineered. I don't think its just a matter of thicker shims because all of the pressure is being applied to the inner ring of the shim on the thin lip of the shaft. I think there needs to be more surface area to the lip on the shaft to distribute more pressure across the shim.

[UberGamer256]

Fearsome: Having fun with your Pro? :)

I would check out Ebay.. some guy is selling blocks that brace the hinge pins and screw into the diff case. I forgot his name but i was going to buy some. Also Fioroni MIGHT make the same thing in the far-future. And GS might even too. I have had a little discussion with Michael at GS Group a week or two ago about this. If ya use the locnuts.. there shouldnt be much of a problem.

[tm4347]

Hello everyone! Can someone tell me the process involved in making my rtr into a non-pullstart?

[fearsome]

Originally posted by UberGamer256
Fearsome: Having fun with your Pro? :)

I would check out Ebay.. some guy is selling blocks that brace the hinge pins and screw into the diff case. I forgot his name but i was going to buy some. Also Fioroni MIGHT make the same thing in the far-future. And GS might even too. I have had a little discussion with Michael at GS Group a week or two ago about this. If ya use the locnuts.. there shouldnt be much of a problem.

Uber,
thanks for the quick reply.....We have already been thinking of trying to convert to hinge pin brace style like the K-cars but havent found any that that fit directly....we may have to custom make them.....

I have been using the lock nut from the beginning (when i first built the car)... it has helped as my car is the oldest storm at my club but has the least worn chassis....I also have done some various mods just to make it more "bullet proof" and handle better :D
I was thinking of getting a new chassis but am worried that the new chassis will also wear (holes seem too close the edge) and they are not cheap!
anywayz....please keep me informed about any coversions to fix this problem.....much appreciated!

[dkangel]

Fearsome - I had the same problem with mine recently. the rear screw holes broke out on the chassis. It seems as they are drilled way to close to the edge of the chassis. The front holes are a little further in.
I made my own chassis brace. Same idea as you with running longer screws though the chassis and the arm block and then lock nut on top. I also added a bottom plate. This is pretty bullet proof now and does not ad much weight either.
I should have pics posted by Monday.
I saw on one car that someone is making aluminum arm blocks. anyone know who makes these?

[fearsome]

dkangel,
The pro version has alu blocks and fioroni also make optional blocks.....but if a hinge pin conversion is available, i'd wait for that instead....
I hope if a hinge pin conversion is available they also include a new stronger rear hub carriers as the toe in tab in the hub carrier is a weak point.

Uber,
Do you know when a conversion kit will be available? as i can't be running the car like this and still be competative :(
If it is a long way away and my only option is to get a new pro chassis or a fioroni chassis (and risk it wearing out again) i will sadly be forced to change to a K-car (which some racers have done at our track which is ashame).

[dkangel]

Fearsom - I am thinking of getting these for the rear. I saw them on EBay under "GS Storm"
They look like they should work.
Anyone else try these yet?????????????

[dkangel]

Installed pic:

[tm4347]

Hello everyone! Can someone tell me the process involved in making my rtr into a non-pullstart?

[fearsome]

dkangel,

They look like it may work for bashing around but I race competitively...it seems abit too thick and heavy....
also i need to be able to adjust anti-squat and toe-in, does it come in 3 sets (each set for each degree of toe and antisquat) like other hinge pin setup cars?
but yeah they look good and it is a step in the right direction! :)

tm4347,

You can either get a new engine that is non-pull start or try to find if available the non-pull start backplate for your currect engine. Just incase you dont know...you'll need a startbox aswell.
Once you have a non-pull start engine and a good starter box you'll never go back to pull start engine :)

[UberGamer256]

Originally posted by fearsome

Uber,
Do you know when a conversion kit will be available? as i can't be running the car like this and still be competative :(
If it is a long way away and my only option is to get a new pro chassis or a fioroni chassis (and risk it wearing out again) i will sadly be forced to change to a K-car (which some racers have done at our track which is ashame).

I cant say anything because i have no clue if they even will make a conversion. I will let Michael and Garen read this page tomarrow but i can't guantiee anything.

For now.. i would just buy those blocks that the person on eBay is selling.

[UberGamer256]

Originally posted by fearsome

also i need to be able to adjust anti-squat and toe-in, does it come in 3 sets (each set for each degree of toe and antisquat) like other hinge pin setup cars?
but yeah they look good and it is a step in the right direction! :)


If ya need Anti-squat adjusments.. just drill the holes up and down a little bit. Toe in is set on the hubs.. remember? :-)

Drilling them up and down a tiny bit woudlnt do anything to them as far as protection goes. As the problem is the hinge pins moving in a lateral movement.. not up and down.

[fearsome]

Thanks Uber......unfortunately the guy selling those hingepin braces only ships within US only.... i live in Australia! :(

Regarding toe-in.....as i mentioned in a earlier post, those toe-in tabs make the hub carrier weak....I have (and other GS driver here in Australia) have broken them...the fracture is right where the tabs are....
Also, having the collar with the set screw in the middle to hold the pin weakens the hub carrier as it takes "meat" (plastic) away from the carrier...I have done some mods front and rear to strength this but it is still a weak point by design....so I would like to see an option/part part that uses C-clips to hold the shaft (get rid of the collar with 1 set screw) and a solid hub carrier.

I know I sound alittle critical about the car by pointing out the flaws (what car doesnt have flaws that need mods) otherwise it is a very good car....how else could it be swiss 2002 champ :)

Just to mention...I have been racing awhile now and been in the nitro scene sometime so I do know abit about the sport...

[Gmanlusk2004]

I have the Storm RTR GS-B01 engine and i'm running the stock clutchbell (13 t). What is the best clutchbell for this engine. I feel it has some awesome torque, but i run on a big track and would like to know what clutchbell works the best before i buy one.
Thanks,
Garrett

[UberGamer256]

Gman: I would use the 13 tooth.. the GS engine is a little lacking in the low end department (although it doesnt seem like it to a non-racer ;-)

fearsome: Was it a new plastic hub? The new plastic should have made that design alot more rigid. It was all thought up for the sake of simplicty.. as a rear brace would have hindreded quick access to the diff, and replacing them takes longer.

[podman]

Ive got a storm pro and i live in england. Its powered by a ho bao (ofna) hyper21 that is in this picture a pullstart but i have changed to a TT starter box since (it arrived about an hour ago!). Since this piture was taken i have also re-routed the fuel lines.

http://www.podman.worldonline.co.uk/images/gs%20storm%20pro%201.jpg

In the above image you can quite clearly see the modification that i did to my rear bulkhead to stop it braking.

http://www.podman.worldonline.co.uk/images/gs%20storm%20pro%202.jpg

list of things i have broke in order:
[list=a]
bulkhead tower on first run
the 2 front hinge pin mount screw (all replacxe with titanium screws)
The cluch bearings fell apart because the clutch had melted! (replaced with an ali clutch)
front a-arm broke when i had a head on crash with nitroleum from the HPI forum
pull start broke twice, the second time the spring actually snapped!
[/list=a]

http://www.podman.worldonline.co.uk/images/gs%20storm%20pro%203.jpg

this Sunday i am going to an organised race in Guildford against a bunch of T-maxxes and some of the other guys that i usually meet up with every Sunday for a big style bash, wish me luck!

podman

[podman]

please delete

[podman]

" " " "

[podman]

how come no more replys? everyone got scared?

The race today went reasonable well for me, i didnt get any practicing in before the first heat because i was having big probems with my engine ticking over (or not) i put this down to not having enough time to make sure it was ok after putting the backing plate on.

Anyway, i managed to do fairly well in the heat, coming 3rd out of 5 ever with an engine seriously overloading from the high end being too rich (remember most of my opposition had Rb engines (C4, C5 WS7)).

after the practise after the race i noticed that the steering was binding, after a quick look around and a spray of WD-40 i got it nice and smooth again.

In the A final for which i qualified i managed to really screw things up, i was doing fairly well until i ran out of fuel!

oh well it was still all fun and there were no brakages

podman

[FlyinRazorback]

I have a RTR that I am enjoying and will be getting a slightly used Pro this week. At this point, we do not have any serious racing with this class in my area that I am aware of. What I want to know is, are there any real good engines (better than the GS-B01) that have a pullstart? I really don't want the hassel of dragging a starter box around, but if it is the only way to get better performance than the current RTR engine I guess I will have to get one. Any suggestions?

[Gmanlusk2004]

just get a starter box. It may sound like a hassel, but just go through it and get a non pull start engine and get a starter box.
I hate my pullstart (gs b01) i have a fatty blister and it sux. Plus, there is no one-way bearing that can go out in a non pull start engine.

[smoky]

does any one know hwere i can get the aluminum a-arms from fiorini. any help wold be great thanks guys

[Gmanlusk2004]

www.rcdiscounters.com has every fioroni option part for the storm i think. I love that place. 8th scale rims by medial pro for $5 a pair!!!

[UberGamer256]

smoky: Unless your a 8th scale Rally driver.. they are NOT suggested :)

podman: Good luck next race! Having fun is all that matters anyway :-)


I dunno why.. but RCCA is wierd. About a week after i reply to this thread.. it 'forgets' to sent me "New reply" e-mails. Grrrr...

[fearsome]

Originally posted by UberGamer256
fearsome: Was it a new plastic hub? The new plastic should have made that design alot more rigid. It was all thought up for the sake of simplicty.. as a rear brace would have hindreded quick access to the diff, and replacing them takes longer. [/B]

Uber: Yeah they are the new plastic hubs.
I just replaced them last week and did some practice on the weekend....Checking the rear hubs, they are already starting to fracture (right where the toe-in tabs are). I dont go crazy with the car and my driving is very consistent so i'm not abusing the car (not any more than other drivers. This is the 3rd set of rear hub carriers...

On the generalsilicones.com web site there is an option part OT-GS07 (GS "Storm" Special Ergal Rear Knuckle Arms) are these option part for the hub carrier? On the fioroni.com web site this part cannot be found using the search!

One tip for GS storm designers.....
Not a good idea to compromise strength and realiabilty for the sack of simplicity! I dont mind spending extra few minutes to access the diff if it mean a "bullet proof" car!
Also because of the sus. block design, toe-in can only be adjusted in the hub carriers....This makes it harder to adjust toe-in (defeating the objective of simplicity) and weaken the carrier as only those small tabs are in contact with the shaft, concentrating the force of impact on the small area (the tabs)!!!
So i'm reluctant to buy OT-GS07 (if it is the option part) at $89.99US (suggested retail price!) in fear of it also failing!

Any suggestions???

I'll post some pic of my car if needed....

Othewise, I have been kickin' butt with the storm and can only get better once we iron out these small issues!

something that I must say...people have mentions that the GS diffs fail easily.....
Well all i can say is that I'm still running my original diffs with original gears!... I had them teared down for maintance a couple of weeks ago.....very little contamination and hardly any wear on the gears.....rebuilt it with the original gears, shimmed properly they are running wonderfully!
regardless of make and model...if you build your diffs properly they will last! btw, I run RB WS7 and E.Picco mod. Omega Super comp. engines.

[Gmanlusk2004]

you have a storm pro right? Because it's the storm rtr that has the diff problem. During manufacturing, they put double gaskets on all of the front differentials, making the crown and pinion gear not mesh well.
L8r,
Garrett

[FlyinRazorback]

Garrett, you talked me into it. I've narrowed it down to 2 engines, RB S7 7port and Ofna/Picco 0-1. Which one would you guys prefer? Also, pipe/manifold, and a good starter box suggestion is needed. Thanks guys.

BTW, whats the difference between the 0-1 and 0-1BP?

Mike

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Anybody know if anyone is making titanium hinge pins available for the storm yet?..i know i have gone through my share of stock ones after some nasty high altitude crash downs.


I also have to agree on the fragility of the rear hub carriers...a good lateral jolt (such as accidently power sliding the rear wheel into a barrier at slow to moderate speed) wil cause the rear hub carrier to snap quite easily, which I have witnessed on more than one occasion.

[modelcar]

Hi Podman,
with this part the look of you Storm Pro will be better!

[modelcar]

Erbgal rear hub carrier (replacement teflon insert can be purchased separately)

[podman]

model car: it doesnt really fit in too well with the colour sceme! as soon as i can find somewhere in this country that sells the updated bulkheads aswell as the shocktowers (three 5 only have the towers at the mo) i will get them

flyinrazorback: i have never seen an Ofna/Picco 0-1 but i can highly reccomend the WS7 i have seen many in action, the winner of the maxxbash last week used one and won by miles! im not sure about the pipe, but i no someone that can post here to tell you. (p.s. im getting a used WS7 in about a month :D )

podman

[Marky]

If you decide on the WS7 then the best pipe is the RB 063 or the 086 the 063 has better fuel consumption but the 086 has slightly more power but has worse fuel consumption.
I run a WS7 with the 063 pipe and it ripps :D

Marky (winner of the maxxbash ;) )

[fearsome]

Originally posted by modelcar
Erbgal rear hub carrier (replacement teflon insert can be purchased separately)

whats the part number for those ergal rear hub carriers?
Anyone tried them yet? If so, how did they hold up?
also whats the part number for the teflon inserts?
thank in advance :)

[modelcar]

whats the part number for those ergal rear hub carriers?
OT-GS07

also whats the part number for the teflon inserts?
OT-GS07/01

[fearsome]

Originally posted by modelcar
whats the part number for those ergal rear hub carriers?
OT-GS07

also whats the part number for the teflon inserts?
OT-GS07/01

Thanks modelcar, much appreciated!

btw, anyone have any experience with these part?

[FlyinRazorback]

Anyone know if the Trinity Wasp body for the 7.5 will fit my Pro? Stands to reason that if other 7.5 bodies will fit, then this one should to.

[CyberISda]

Hey my SUNGEAR on all of my DIFF is almost stripped and i don't spare here nor hobby shop that's selling some storm parts. I read on Paco Raaf review regarding storm pro that the sungear on mp5 and mp6 are ok. I just wanted to ask if the sungear on kyosho mp7.5 are all the same as the mp6 and mp5 so i can use them.

Help!

[Marky]

Nope the 7.5 has smaller diffs than the 6 or 5

Marky

[rcfreak13]

hey i have one they are sweet. i have a hyper 21 and ofna wheels. it is sweet. i think it is ready to race after you a just it. it is nice get it!!!!! :D :D :D :D :D

[rcfreak13]

i know a guy that is my friend but he owns a mp 6 sport get the gs storm or mbx xr the works :D :D :D :D :D

[UberGamer256]

Originally posted by CyberISda
Hey my SUNGEAR on all of my DIFF is almost stripped and i don't spare here nor hobby shop that's selling some storm parts. I read on Paco Raaf review regarding storm pro that the sungear on mp5 and mp6 are ok. I just wanted to ask if the sungear on kyosho mp7.5 are all the same as the mp6 and mp5 so i can use them.

Help!

The MP6 would be worth a try. If it doesnt work.. contact Horizon Hobby and they will get you a gear. If your in need of one for a race.. and still cant get one.. contact me :D

[UberGamer256]

Originally posted by FlyinRazorback
Anyone know if the Trinity Wasp body for the 7.5 will fit my Pro? Stands to reason that if other 7.5 bodies will fit, then this one should to.

It should.. the Pro-Line one works. It's worth a try ;)

[FlyinRazorback]

About the Trinity body, I decided to try it. With a little modification, it works. It will probably be the last Reference body I buy though. They aren't as thick as Proline's and it didn't come with window masks.

[whatever]

where can i order these parts??

[UberGamer256]

http://www.rcdiscounters.com :D

[camshaft]

I have a storm rtr, and I was wondering whether there's anyway to make the car noticebly quiter for when I'm running it in my yard. Since this would just be for when I'm driving for fun I don't mind if it hurts the performance, but I don't want to do anything permanent so I can easily change it back for racing. Tried the dynamite pipe but that didn't seem to do anything. After inspecting the dynamite pipe and the original GS I didn't see any differences, so I don't see why there would be any difference in sound, let alone performance, as I've heard form other people. Thanks for any ideas...

[camshaft]

is this like a dead forum of something?

[Gmanlusk2004]

NOT ANY MORE!!!! lol ;) But really, does any one have an extra main gear and clutch bell they would be willing to sell me, or trader for?
L8r,
Garrett

[tm4347]

Hello everyone! Does anybody know what, if any, ofna torsen diff. will fit in my Storm rtr? Thanks.

[FlyinRazorback]

Garrett,
I have a stock bell I could trade ya. Or just order one from RCD. Fioroni makes a hardened steel bell which I switched to. You want need another for a long time.

[Gmanlusk2004]

sweet thanks that site is awesome.
I forgot about it
L8r
Garrett

[UberGamer256]

Originally posted by tm4347
Hello everyone! Does anybody know what, if any, ofna torsen diff. will fit in my Storm rtr? Thanks.

I have no clue... but if your looking to buy a torsen new, the Fioroni torsens on http://www.rcdiscounters.com are the absolute best :D


Garrent.. E-mail me dude. I have a Main spur gear that has some wear on it from my old Storm RTR i could sell ya. The tops of the teath a bit roudned.. my engine got loose on my one day, but it still works great and mesh's perfectly. ubergamer@teamurc.com

[Gmanlusk2004]

Thanks for the offer, but i went and bought a mugen clutch bell 14 tooth. It's nice, except for the fact that i need to get a shim so the bell doesn't slide around on the shaft. What size do i need. I have already had to replace the bearings twice because of the bell sliding around, and i need a shim to fit! Help! Uber?
L8r,
Garrett

[us_matrix]

Hi,

Have you guys try this F/R hinge pin on your GS Storm? I have a Storm RTR and was wondering are these good to have? I changed the stock plastic Lower Suspension Arm Holder Set to Dynamtie brand and it holds much better than before. So, are those F/R hinge pin will do even much better job? Also, the seller said need to modify the front part in order to install it, anyone has idea how to do it?

Thanks.

http://**************/ws/*******************************1785156425

[us_matrix]

Here is the link again.

[us_matrix]

http://**************/ws/*******************************1785156425

[us_matrix]

Sorry guys, Can't paste it and please go to ebay and search for item# 1785156425

[RS4rally1124]

i am thinking of getting the storm rtr. there is no place around me to officially race but i will race my friends.
they are driving 2 little mod gt lx, a hyper 7 rtr and a few mbx's including an r2 sometimes if they show up. i want to know first if it will compete with these guys for fun.

i will be purchasing it for419.99 at my lhs. is this a good deal. thanks and all your guys's buggies look sweat


JT

[UberGamer256]

Originally posted by Gmanlusk2004
Thanks for the offer, but i went and bought a mugen clutch bell 14 tooth. It's nice, except for the fact that i need to get a shim so the bell doesn't slide around on the shaft. What size do i need. I have already had to replace the bearings twice because of the bell sliding around, and i need a shim to fit! Help! Uber?
L8r,
Garrett

I had that same problem so i asked around at the track for some Clutch Bell shims and gather several up and stuck them on. Works great now. :D

[UberGamer256]

Originally posted by RS4rally1124
i am thinking of getting the storm rtr. there is no place around me to officially race but i will race my friends.
they are driving 2 little mod gt lx, a hyper 7 rtr and a few mbx's including an r2 sometimes if they show up. i want to know first if it will compete with these guys for fun.

i will be purchasing it for419.99 at my lhs. is this a good deal. thanks and all your guys's buggies look sweat


JT

Should be spot on with the Hyper 7 and smoke the others ;)

:cool:

[carlton eppes]

Or just get the GS clutch shims
#GSCST065

[RS4rally1124]

so is 419.99 a good price for this car. it seems worth it and my only grievens is the gt lx that is modified will have the same radio as me, a extreme tourqe digital servo and the hyper 8 port does that make it a little different


JT

[carlton eppes]

$419 for a RTR is a very good price the last time I looked Horizon had them for $540.

[TalleyRacing2]

Carlton, Korea is drivin me nuts man. Not alot of places to run a buggy, but plenty of onroad places. Oh well. I'll just represent with a Vision Pro. If only I knew what engine I wanted.

[whatever]

hi guys,i orderd the 52mm shock shaft from horizon to replace the rear shock shaft on my storm(bent)but they seem to be shorter than the stockers??

[us_matrix]

I have a GS Storm RTR and planning to modify from pull start to non pull start. I was wondering anyone of you guys have done that and can give me some idea please. I just ordered the back plate and the seal ring, anything else i need to get in order to change it to non-pull start? Do i need to change the crank shaft too?

How hard to do it and anything i need to be aware of?

Thanks.

[TalleyRacing2]

You'll need a cutoff wheel for your dremel. Several of the magazine have writen articles explaining how to turn you ps engine into an np engine. Have fun, and burn some nitro.

[whatever]

front sway bar yes/no?

[TalleyRacing2]

Depends on the track conditions.

[RS4rally1124]

my lhs doesn't stock many parts for this car so what would you suggest i have him order so that i don't have to wait when it breaks.


JT

[gkcontra]

If you have the RTR:

Dynamite Alum. Arm Mounts
Lower front arm
Rear uprights
bulkhead
Fioroni 13 tooth clutch bell(hardened)
Dynamite or GS Pro front shock tower

[fearsome]

What degree anit-squat are the dynamite lower sus holder??

stock pro ones are 3 degrees
optional ones are 1.5
fioroni are 1 and 2 degree adjustable

[stewartfan]

I just bought a Storm RTR and it was running fine for a few tanks of gas but now it stalls at full throttle. Can some body give me the initial high and low needle settings.

Thanks:)

[TalleyRacing2]

Initial carb settings I don't know. But the engine is to lean. Save yourself some time and hassle with that. Back the high end needle out 3 1/2 turns, and start from there. Once you get it set to where it makes good power, and sounds clean the whole time, back the high end off about a 1/16 of a turn. That should put it to a point where it runs as good as did before the 1/16 out was made, and it will also allow for changes in the air as well.

[FlyinRazorback]

My brother wants to upgrade his RTR shocks to Pro shocks. Are the shocks for the rear the long or medium? Are the shocks for the front the short or medium?

[MAXX-RACER]

Hey Whatever!
The shock shaft you got is 10 mm to short. They are for the front. The rears are somethin like 62mm. Check your manual at the back!

[whatever]

thanks racer:)

[NitroRookie]

I'm going to get a GS Storm RTR is there anything you guys can tell me about them. It will mainly be used as a Backyard Basher. So I gather that the buggy will hold up fairly well.

[flsurf420]

Originally posted by NitroRookie
I'm going to get a GS Storm RTR is there anything you guys can tell me about them. It will mainly be used as a Backyard Basher. So I gather that the buggy will hold up fairly well.

My lil bro is getting one. I have seen them 4 real and they fly, they are great. there is a vid of some being used. it is on trilordy.com ecept i don't wanna look. lol:rolleyes: anyway it goes fast and looks fast. i would definitely get the gs storm.:D

[gnic1]

The rtr is good for bashing. When you decide to race you should
add the pro upgrades. The rtr engine is pretty strong for being stock

[us_matrix]

Hi,

I have a GS Storm RTR w/stock engine. I was wondering what glow plug (brand & model no. please) i should get when i replace it?

Anyone know what is differenece between like Cold, Hot, medium?

[whatever]

what settings are you guys using?.i have a srotm pro that seems to push really badly around corners if i'm on the thrittle at all.if i just let it coast it turns fine.:confused:

[us_matrix]

Hi I am running stock engine on my Storm RTR and using stock clutch bell 13T. I was wondering that if i change to smaller number like 11 or 12T, does it make the car more punch when it pick up?

[gnic1]

Hey Whatever. I changed the diff oil to 3000 in the front from the stock setup of 5000. I kept 7000 in middle and 1000 in rear.It made a major difference. I run the Pro version as well. 13 tooth clutchbell. 40 in the front 30 in the rear shocks. I was pushing BAD before i changed the diff oil. Good luck.

[bubbastump]

george stop wishing u were fast by buggie is much faster till i wake up.
push = kant get off the gas quick enough,or back brakes r too loose front should be a bit tighter

[Got Speed]

I see there are two storm fourms.

I finnally took my buggy out to the track the other day to try it after I was done racing(XXXN-T). It handles a whole lot better than I though it would. Especially cosidering my setup was pretty far off from what it should be.

[whatever]

do you guys know if the rear shock tower has been updated to include the two extra holes.the pic that rc discounters has is of the old design.i'd like to try the fioroni cause i tweaked the storm pro part.:eek:

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by whatever
do you guys know if the rear shock tower has been updated to include the two extra holes.the pic that rc discounters has is of the old design.i'd like to try the fioroni cause i tweaked the storm pro part.:eek:

I don't think the Fiorini tower is any stronger. The strongest I know of are the Hardcore towers. But they run $40 or so.

[carlton eppes]

Yes the pro towers have the new screw holes but you have to have the updated bulkhead housing with the extra holes that match up for it to work like it's supposed to. My LHS has had the new towers and the cases for a month or more so unless your LHS is selling stuff they've had in stock for a while you should be able to get them.

[FlyinRazorback]

Do any of you guys have the Fioroni chassis? Is it any better than the Pro chassis?

[MAXX-RACER]

I am gettin a Fioroni chassis. As far as i know, it is stronger than the pro, but not as light. It also flexes a bit more so you can still abuse it a bit.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by MAXX-RACER
I am gettin a Fioroni chassis. As far as i know, it is stronger than the pro, but not as light. It also flexes a bit more so you can still abuse it a bit.

I thought it was slightly weaker than pro but lighter? Tell me how you like it. I am looking for a new chassis to get sometime. The three I have seen are the Dynamite, Pro, and Fiorini. Is the Dynamite every bit as strong as the Pro? Is it the same length and weight? If anyone finds a good deal on the Fiorini please post here though. Thanks:cool:

[slodsm]

I just got new car I picked up a GS Storm Pro today, Bought a RZ V01B motor with it, lhs owner hooked me up with a V01B for 200, couldn't pass it up. Its all put together and painted on the kitchen table right now. Can't wait till tommorow to break in the motor and start with the tuning. I have not raced 1/8 in a long time. Been concentrating on 1/10 losi gas. I cant wait to fire this thing up and go racing.

[Killer87]

What are the factory settings for the GS Storm RTR? The high end, the low end, and the idle stop screw.

thx
killer

[slodsm]

Have any of you guys had a problem with your flywheel hitting the track after large jumps and killing the motor? I had that happen twice today and it cost me 3 laps. Still managed a 2nd and I would not have won anyway, winner was up 4 on me, but it was a lot of headache cause my starter box batt came disconnected the second time and my pit guy didn't know. had a great time though with my first race with this buggy. She handles like a dream.

[carlton eppes]

Which buggy do you have? The RTR or Pro? On some of the early pro's the flywheel was to large and set almost even with the bottom of the chassis. If this is the case then you need a smaller diameter flywheel or raise the motor. BTW the RTR engine mounts are thicker than the pro.

[slodsm]

I have the pro. I will look into a smaller flywheel. Thanks man, I was unsure if they made one or not.

[Killer87]

anyone?:( :(

[FlyinRazorback]

Killer,
I don't remember the exact settings. I THINK it is around 2.5 turns out on the top end and flush with the bottom end. Of course temp and primarily humidity will play a role on where you end up on your settings. Look back through the pages of this thread and you should find the answer.

[Killer87]

I have gotten various answers though.

High end- 2, 2 1/2, 3, 3 1/2

Low end- flush with housing, 5 1/2

idle stop- ????

BTW: when you say flush with the housing do you mean flush with the black thing (the thing that the servo attaches to; has a ball on it; the carburator Ball Link) or do you mean flush with the silver thin inside the black thing (carburator throttle housing)???

sorry i can't be more descriptive

thx a lot
killer

[carlton eppes]

Slosdsm - GS came uot with a smaller flywheel or I use the Mugen 3 shoe flywheel and it works fine.

Killer - Flyinrazorback is about as close as it comes to factory settings. Each engine is different so there's no perfect setting just one to get you in the ball park and adjust for performance from there.

[Killer87]

i tried 3 on the high speed and flush with the carburator housing on the low speed. It started the frist time and when i gave it a little gas it stopped. Then it sortta started a couple of times but it always stalled after a 1/2 second. I didn't even get the chance to give it throttle. Then I set the neutral throttle position higher and it woukdn't even blip. I gave mself a blister trying to start it. Today i'm gonna use the starter box and 2 1/2 turns out because i think it was 2 rich.

thx
killer