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Killer87
12-25-2002, 07:20 PM
thx for the help I got it running well.

I have a Gs Storm RTR with a Cvec pipe. When I run my car there is a whining noise when I go fast. I don't think it is the engine or the pipe. Could it be my differentials? How much diff oil is there supposed to be in them? Also is the diff oil supposed to by brown? I ordered new diff oil but because of the holidays it is coming very late. This has been happening for a while but I didn't want to jump to any conclusions so I tried running it 1 more time and It still did it.

thx
killer

FlyinRazorback
12-25-2002, 07:25 PM
Not sure what is making that sound. The diffs should be filled about 3/4 of the way full with diff oil. Make sure you clean them real good with WD-40 or Gunk Liquid Wrench (my favorite) before adding the diff oil.

Killer87
12-25-2002, 10:19 PM
Ok, well they are about 1/10 full. Just enough to cover the inside of the casing. I'll fill them up when the oil comes in.

thx
killer

MAXX-RACER
01-05-2003, 12:19 PM
Hey killer, what you might be hearin is your spur gear. Metal on metal does not mesh as well as plastic and metal, so if your spur gear is fairly tight against the clutch bell, it may whine a bit. You also gotta be careful that it isn't so tight it is heatin up the spur/clutch bell. Our if that isn't it, if your car sat for a little while, some rust mighta formed in the motor. You might wanna check it out cause this makes a high pitched whine.

Killer87
01-05-2003, 08:13 PM
its the spur and clutch bell bec. it still whines after I put new oil in the diffs.


thx
killer

Got Speed
01-05-2003, 08:29 PM
How tight is your spur gear and clutch bell and with how much drag? Paper method? I had some trouble with it before since Ive never dealt with a steel spur gear till I got the buggy. I had my mesh set so there wasn't any drag between the gears and so that it made as little noise as possible. That's when I stripped my spur though. BTW: I was using a Mugen clutch bell. Is it not the same mesh? Because it was harder to get the mesh where I wanted it than with the GS clutch bell.

Gmanlusk2004
01-05-2003, 08:47 PM
I have a mugen bell, it fits fine. Just make sure that your engine mount screws have thread lock on them so they don't mess w/ your mesh.

I just got some diff fluid, 3000 front and rear, and 10,000 center. Does this seem like a good setup, or should i run the 5,000 front, 7,000 center, and 1,000 rear?
L8r,
Garrett

Gmanlusk2004
01-05-2003, 10:07 PM
Check out my storm, I have better pix and if you really wanna see em that bad email me at goldglovegarrett@aol.com
L8r,
Garrett

Gmanlusk2004
01-05-2003, 10:17 PM
check out my buggy. here's the link this time... http://www.geocities.com/gmanlusk2004/RCpage.html
L8r,
Garrett

Gmanlusk2004
01-05-2003, 11:37 PM
Here's a HUGE Pic of my buggy. Be ready to fit 2 screen! http://www.geocities.com/gmanlusk2004/IMAG0134.JPG
L8r,
Garrett

podman
01-06-2003, 10:13 AM
well i kinda forgot to check this forum when i went on holiday to america. Ive been doing lots with my storm pro recently, including a WS7 engine and Omega 1 piece pipe.

my website: http://www.podman.worldonline.co.uk

podman

podman
01-06-2003, 12:15 PM
HELP!

if anyone has one of the updated GS storm (pro) rear shocktowers and either has a scan of it or would like to make one for me (a scan that is, not a shocktower!) please e-mail it to me here: podman@worldonline.co.uk .

thanks loads

podman

MAXX-RACER
01-07-2003, 08:07 PM
10,000 weight is to heavy for your center diff GMAN. Try the manuals recommendations first.

carlton eppes
01-07-2003, 08:13 PM
Yes Gman try the book setting 1st.

Gmanlusk2004
01-07-2003, 09:49 PM
Well actually, i filled the diffs last night. Could i remove half of the fluid from my center diff and dilude it w/ my 3000 wt oil to balance it out?
Thanks,
Garrett

whatever
01-08-2003, 12:20 AM
my storm pushes like crazy through tight turns,maybe you guys could help me out with some settings?i have upgraded steering servo to a servo with 140 oz..basically if i give it any throttle at all it won't turn and even off throttle it doesn't turn well.the steering moves freely.:confused:

Gmanlusk2004
01-08-2003, 10:33 AM
I don't have that problem, but i think that means that you have a lot of "slop" in your steering linkage. Your problem sounds unusual. Maybe your servo arm is slipping?? I'm not sure, hope this helped a little.
Garrett

jrd21
01-08-2003, 08:51 PM
Do any of you guys know where I can get some new engine mounts. Mine that came with my 80% asembled kit will not work with my new OFNA 0-1BP engine:( . Please any help would be great I was hoping to go racing this weekend.

thanks

jrd21

:)

carlton eppes
01-08-2003, 09:05 PM
Gman you already have it in then try it.
Whatever, hmm what is your setup? It sounds like the setup is wrong.
JRD21 where are you? The RTR mounts have slots to move the motor screws in but they are taller than the Pro mounts so if you don't have the large flywheel that came on the RTR's and probably 80% cars you will have trouble starting with a starter box.

jrd21
01-08-2003, 09:33 PM
I know you can slide them but the problem that I am having is when you tighten the engine screws down the mounts bow out because of the bottom of the engine case.

Thanks,

JRD21

jrd21
01-08-2003, 09:45 PM
:D

Ok guys I just found a picture of the Storm Pro engine mounts and I think that if I get them that will be all I need to mount up this awesome engine. WOO-HOO

Thanks,

Jrd21

:rolleyes: :cool: :eek::)

whatever
01-09-2003, 12:18 AM
well right now my front and rear camber is set at -3 degrees.toe in is stock int the rear 2 degrees i think front is neutral toe in.springs are the stock black springs.35 wt front 30 wt rear.no swaybar in front.

carlton eppes
01-09-2003, 12:34 AM
It sounds like the rear is too soft do you have any other springs? Also the lower mount on the front arms are they set for more kickup? They are wedge shaped, the more kickup in the front arms the more caster there is. They can be flipped around to give less kick up which will increase low speed or off throttle steering. I also found out if you use the upper mount hole on the upper fron t arms it seems to help turn in. The lower arm mounts in the back can also be flipped around to change anti-squat. Anti-squat is the amount the lower rear arms are angled forward. The closer they sit to parallel with the chassis the more the car will squat (transfer weight) to the rear anti-squat raises the front of the arm and helps slow this transfer down.
Do your diffs feel smooth? What rear diff oil are you running? What size are the shock piston holes?

whatever
01-09-2003, 10:49 AM
the diffs all feel smooth,just put new diff fluid in them.as far as the front a arm mounts go i haven't changed them but i did install the dynamite a arm maounts in the rear.i'll try some of you other suggestions,thanks.b.t.w. did you get the pics i sent you?:cool:

Got Speed
01-10-2003, 06:32 PM
I am constantly breaking clutch springs. Is anyone else, or has anyone else? If so what causes it and how did you fix it?

Killer87
01-12-2003, 12:20 PM
Throttle return spring??
Does anyone have a pic of their throttke retrun spring on their storm that works? I have a Storm RTR and I want t put a throttle return spring on it. I have tried 2 different springs and I still haven't gotten it.

If possible can you tell mme the length of the spring and the resistance(i think thats what you call it (the amount of tension it takes to pull it (it says on the bag you bought it in)))

thx
killer

Got Speed: no I haven't burned through any springs yet. Someone told me that the GS springs and shoes stink and that you should use all mugen stuff.

Got Speed
01-13-2003, 09:11 AM
Originally posted by Killer87
Throttle return spring??
Does anyone have a pic of their throttke retrun spring on their storm that works? I have a Storm RTR and I want t put a throttle return spring on it. I have tried 2 different springs and I still haven't gotten it.

If possible can you tell mme the length of the spring and the resistance(i think thats what you call it (the amount of tension it takes to pull it (it says on the bag you bought it in)))

thx
killer

Got Speed: no I haven't burned through any springs yet. Someone told me that the GS springs and shoes stink and that you should use all mugen stuff.

I have a throttle return spring on the front of the servo arm(where I drilled a hole) that goes back to the fuel nipple(facing paralel to the ground and away from the car). I really like to have on that goes on the carb and attaches to something though since the linkage and servo arm can come off. I did have one that went from the ball on the carb to the high speed needle. It was half of a losi return spring(you have to bend it just right the first time though otherwise it will bend so easily it will just pop off.

Im on my 4th spring right now. They constantly break. No place in town to buy them either, so I tried an Ofna spring. A little bending and it fit how it should, next time a spring goes I think Im going to go with a different clutch all together.

whatever
01-13-2003, 07:06 PM
i just use a rubber band(thick kind)looped around the servo arm then around the carb...works great.;)

KIRK S. DECKER
01-15-2003, 07:35 PM
Any of you guys have problems with bent hinge pins?....I did not think I did until I disassembled my Storm for some maintainence.
Virtually all the 4mm and 3mm hinge pins were slightly bent and "untrue" as seen when I rolled them on a flat surface. Oddly this did not seem to effect the tracking or performance of the car but I know it cant be good. I checked out various sites (Lunsford,Hardcore Racing, etc.) for titanium replacement kits but no luck? Any body know of any companies that make "tougher" hinge pins for the Storm?

Thanks.

MAXX-RACER
01-17-2003, 05:58 PM
Well, Captain Kirk, i have a storm RTR. The only hinge pin that has ever bent in 1 and a half years is when my buggy lost control (i was driving in winter, am i a stupid a$$ or what??:rolleyes: ) and i hit a brick wall at half throttle. And it just bent it a bit! It tore the suspension arm almost of and destroyed the left side. Otherwise, its all good.

Killer87
01-17-2003, 10:41 PM
theres a company that sells aftermarket hinge pins on ebay. I dont know how good they are but they go on as one piece.

whatever
01-17-2003, 11:26 PM
i seem to have alot.i can move the wheels left and right about 2 degrees before i hit any tension.can't tell where the loosnes(is that a word?)is,all screws are tight.
0

carlton eppes
01-18-2003, 12:01 AM
It might be your servo saver is loose.

Bent hinge pins? Yep I've had several due to some HARD crashes. Lunsford has hinge pins for a MP6 that will fit but they are a little longer than the Storm pins.

Got Speed
01-18-2003, 10:53 AM
whatever- It is probably your servo saver is loose. When the servo turns the wheels side to side does it have any problem doing so? Like skipping or anything? If so, it is probably a stripped servo gear(yes MG servos can strip) lol.

Rc_madd
01-19-2003, 06:55 PM
Has anyone else had the problem of the screws that hold the rear arms on breaking the chassis? The first time I ran my Storm RTR (after break in) I rolled it at a good speed I figured I had broke some plastic. But the screw holding on the rear arm ripped right through the chassis:eek: . I was thinking about getting the Hard upgraded chassis from Horizon but I didnt know if it was worth the $90? has anyone bought the hard upgrad chassis?


And does anyone know of a unpainted body that fits the storm


Thanks Ahead of time

carlton eppes
01-19-2003, 07:07 PM
The hard chassis is actually the Pro chassis and it's very tough. The Fioroni chassis is a good chassis too the 2 are almost identical. If the screws back out part way from the plastic lower arm mounts it will let them move around and tear the chassis. The cure for this is either replace those plastic blocks with the aluminum ones and loctite the screws or get longer screws and put locking nuts on the top of the mount. I had this happen on the front of a RTR chassis. I put the Fioroni chassis in almost a year ago and it's still in good shape.
A Crowd Pleazer 7.5 body will fit the Storm just set the storm body on top of the new body and mark your posts and cut line because it does differ slightly from the Kyosho cut lines.

Rc_madd
01-20-2003, 11:40 AM
Thanks...... I will prob get the hard chassis then



Thanks Again

Rc_madd
01-20-2003, 05:59 PM
I just finished my first "real" run of my RTR storm (after Break In) This buggy is VERY durable!! It has awsome low end take off but seems to be lacking in the top end area. I tuned the motor and it is running about 220-230 and it seems to be going about 30-35 Mph. Witch is ok but I was hoping for more :( . Has anyone done anything with bigger clutch bells for more top end? I am considering changing out the GS motor for somthing else, What have you guys used for a new motor that is not too expensive? And does anyone know what the hp rating is on the GS motor?

Gmanlusk2004
01-20-2003, 07:21 PM
30-35??? r u sure that you have everything tuned right. That seems impossible! That car goes about 50 w/ that engine. That is running very cool for that engine, usually w/ body on i run around 265, so i suggest that you lean it out.
L8r,
Garrett

Rc_madd
01-20-2003, 08:22 PM
Thats what I was wanting speedwise... I was told at my LHS that you should keep the temp around 225-250 at the most or you would wear out the piston and sleve early.... Have you had any problems with wear? I was going to buy a hyper 7 but I bought the storm because of the radio and stuff. And now I am kindof bumming because of the top end speed... BUT if I can lean it out and not mess anything up that would very cool


Thanks
Scott

carlton eppes
01-21-2003, 12:35 AM
Check to besure the carb is opening all the way, sounds like the linkage is out of adjustment. Also the stock pipe sux it makes a lot of noise but not much power. That motor normally runs warmer than the OS and Novarossi motors.

Gmanlusk2004
01-21-2003, 11:43 AM
Hey, carlton! remember me? you are from fulton right? i'm from tomball. We talked a loooong time ago, before i got a storm. I finally got one about 2 or 3 months ago now, and i've got a new body, tires, wheels, servo, and about to purchase a new engine and starter box! We need to race! Check out my sight if you wanna see my rc stuff. i got pix of my gear and my storm. If any of yall want your pix posted, i can do it on my site! Check it out at www.geocities.com/gmanlusk2004/RCpage.html

As for the slow storm, it has to be the carb. do what carlton said, check out to see if it is opening.
L8r,
Garrett

carlton eppes
01-21-2003, 10:21 PM
Hey Gman yep I remember! Why don't you come race with us next month? I'll be at round 1 of the Nitro Invitational in Pearland on feb. 22nd and 23rd. I'll also be at the 1st RC Pro race at Pearland on mar. 8th and 9th. I'm gonna be running the races at round 2 of the Invitationals in Victoria on apr. 12th and 13th too. Plenty of racing going on and both series are open to all. Oh and if you don't feel comfortable running with the experts they have a sportsman class which is what I run.

carlton eppes
01-21-2003, 10:27 PM
BTW nice looking buggy! Here's my new Pro.
http://www.paranormals.com/temp3/eppes/buggy2.jpg

Gmanlusk2004
01-29-2003, 10:18 AM
you've got a nice lookin buggy as well. Did you paint it yourself?
There are a few reasons why i haven't come down to race with you.
1. don't have transportation (yet)
2. engine is stock gs pullstart
3. can't even get engine to start due to air leak that i don't know how to fix


Once i get past these, i'll be there! It'll take about 70 days till i get my liscence( you have to wait 6 months after you get your learner's permit until you receive lisence.):mad: i turned 16 in june, but didn't get my permit till october! could have gotten it when i was 15 but i was too lazy :rolleyes:
L8r,
Garrett

carlton eppes
01-29-2003, 09:35 PM
Ahhhhhhhh I see!;) Thanks and yes I did all the paint work myself including the name on the side (no that's not a sticker). If you can make it down maybe I can help you out with that buggy......... BTW I'll also have my backup buggy with me if we can't get yours working. :)

Gmanlusk2004
01-29-2003, 11:08 PM
you mean the "storm" written on the side isn't a sticker??? Wow, that's good. That would be cool, so we can correspond better, my email is goldglovegarrett@aol.com. Is you backup a storm rtr? What's all in it?
L8r,
Garrett

carlton eppes
01-29-2003, 11:18 PM
Yep that's paint. Yea the backup is a RTR with the pro towers, steering, Crono 4 port CLB, better servos, aluminum lower arm mounts, Crono CLB, OFNA one piece offroad pipe and a Fioroni chassis that I'm gonna have to change before next month. The chassis has seen a year of racing and it's time to change it. My email is cdeppes@awesomenet.net .

Killer87
01-30-2003, 09:43 AM
what are u going to do with the old fioroni chassis? j/a

carlton eppes
01-30-2003, 02:58 PM
Trash probably. I also have a new in the package RTR chassis but I'd rather get another Fioroni or a pro.

Killer87
01-30-2003, 03:10 PM
can i have it if ur gonna trash it?

Are u gonna be down at M&M the weekend of the 8th?

Killer87
01-30-2003, 03:16 PM
does anyone use AOL im? if so whats ur sn?

mines: ErikTenPro13

Got Speed
01-30-2003, 03:52 PM
Originally posted by carlton eppes
Trash probably. I also have a new in the package RTR chassis but I'd rather get another Fioroni or a pro.

Is there something wrong with it? If not, Ill buy it from you.

Got Speed
01-30-2003, 03:53 PM
Killer87- Sorry I didn't see your post. My aim is SuperMaxxer

Killer87
01-30-2003, 04:32 PM
got speed: are u the person with the rb tmaxx?

carlton eppes
01-30-2003, 07:01 PM
The chassis is so scratched up you can't even read the Fioroni name on the bottom. Also one of the mounting ears for the front arms is tweeked a little. Killer your welcome to it but I won't be in the Houston area till feb. 22nd&23rd. I live in Rockport about 30 miles from Corpus.

carlton eppes
01-30-2003, 07:03 PM
BTW my AIM name is texasfzzy

Got Speed
01-30-2003, 07:04 PM
Originally posted by Killer87
got speed: are u the person with the rb tmaxx?

No, I used to have a .21 maxx but not an RB. I sold it for the buggy. Lots of fun. :) :p

carlton eppes- If Killer87 dosn't take it I will. Thanks:)

Killer87
01-30-2003, 09:22 PM
carlton: Dang! I won't be in Houston for the Nitro Invitationals. I have a sports tournament in Corpus Christi. Is it possible for you to mail it to me when you get a new one and I'LL PAY THE SHIPPING AND HANDLING. If not, maybe some other time we can meet at M&M or Torq Raceway(if I can get some transportation). We could also race a little, although you would kick my A$$ with ur Pro and my slow RTR. I really want that chassis because my RTR one is getting pretty banged up and I noticed that it flexes a lot. Also my starter box wheel is hitting the chassis so I need to get a different one like the one you have. I really apreciate what you are doing.

Thanks A Lot,
Erik.

P.S. Nice job on that body! I seriosly was going to ask you where you got that Storm sticker. When I heard that you painted it, I was really amazed. That must've been hard with the fade like you did. I also like the lightning.

Also what is that engine in your storm? Is that a RB S7?



Speed: oh, ok. I asked that question because I checked out ur site and saw a RB tmaxx.

Killer87
01-30-2003, 09:24 PM
Speed: do u live in H-town too?

carlton eppes
01-30-2003, 10:38 PM
Killer
Yea I can send it to ya let me get another one here before I strip it down, just to hard to keep track of things if I strip it before hand.

Oh about the "sticker" I put a storm sticker on the outside and traced it on the liquid mask on the inside then cut it out and painted it. It was actually pretty easy. The lightening was also cut out of the liquid mask and painted then the base color painted.

The motor is a Crono 4 port CLB with an Odonnel head.

BTW here's the RTR. Sorry don't have any pics without the body.

http://www.teamurc.com/pics/Carlton/storm2.jpg

Got Speed
01-31-2003, 09:30 AM
Killer87- Oh, ok. I used to be a moderator there. No, unfortuantly I live in Phoenix, AZ :p :(

carlton eppes- Yea, that body is awesome. I like the lightning type bodys alot. I painted my XXXN-T's body red into blue with silver lightning down it.

Ive got to get some of those shock socks. I wonder if I can get my LHS to order them so I don't have to worry about shipping.

Gmanlusk2004
02-06-2003, 11:00 PM
what are the general base needle settings on the GS B01 engine? Like 2 and 1/2 turns out on high and 2 out on low? (i just used numbers) help me please!
L8r,
Garrett

Gmanlusk2004
02-06-2003, 11:04 PM
check out my pix from the auto show and my rc stuff
http://community.webshots.com/album/62909725CqnRBj
www.geocities.com/Gmanlusk2004/RCpage.html
L8r,
Garrett

fearsome
02-07-2003, 02:40 AM
Hey all storm drivers.....
new improved parts will soon be available for the storm.

- alu rear hub carrier (not the fioroni) GS ones.
- alu front C-hub (adjustable for caster angles).
- alu lower arm braces (like the K cars) so the A-B blocks dont move! stopping the wobbling of the arms!!
- new improved chassis (thicker at the points where the A-B blocks are) previously the holes are too close to the edge and breaking the chassis!
-improved main spur gear...thicker and stronger!

thats what I know so far!!! this has been told to me by GS distributor here and I have seen the pics of the car fitted with these parts!

these new parts should fix the problems that i posted early about the car! good to see a company backing their product moving in the right direction to improve!

Killer87
02-07-2003, 08:36 AM
Originally posted by Gmanlusk2004
what are the general base needle settings on the GS B01 engine? Like 2 and 1/2 turns out on high and 2 out on low? (i just used numbers) help me please!
L8r,
Garrett

About 2 1/2 to 3 high. And flush with the housing on low.

Trust me these numbers are right. About 6 months ago, whe i was cleaning my cvec, I put it back in backwards. This caused the car to be extremeley rich(from pressure) and I had to mess aroundwith the needles. Anyway, I had to spend 2 weeks finding out the factory settings.

so these are right,

erik

Killer87
02-07-2003, 08:39 AM
when will the new stuff be available? and where?

whatever
02-08-2003, 01:40 PM
hi guys,i bought the gs storm spring set(long,med,short)i can't tell if the yellow or blue springs are softer?,also when using the long /short spring combination in the rear which spring should be the stiff one,the short or the long?hope this isn't to confusing.sometimes i confuse myself,lol.

jrd21
02-08-2003, 04:50 PM
[B]WHATEVER

Which manufacturer did you buy the springs from Fioroni? If they are Fioroni's than the Yellow spirngs are the softer of the two and as for the length of the springs that does not affect their spring rate as long as they are the same color. The shorter springs go in the front.

Hope this helps

Jason:cool:

jrd21
02-08-2003, 05:08 PM
Whatever

If you have the short and long 6 pc. sets from GS Racing than I do not know which is the softer and harder springs as I have been unable to find out that answer myself maybe you could call or e-mail GS Racing and see what they say if you so let us know what they tell you. I do know that most of the people that I know that run a 2 spring setup like that use the short spring on top of the long spring and the short spring is usually firmer than the longer one I would guess that the softer spring would be the Yellow spring and the harder one the blue, since that is the way Fioroni does theirs and they are afilliated, (did I spell that right, OH WELL, HEHE).

Hope this helps you!!!!!!!!

Happy Racing:D :D :D

Jason :cool:

whatever
02-09-2003, 12:26 AM
thanks for the reply jason,very helpful:).i do have the gs spring sets.i will try to email them and hopefully they will tell me which is the softest(blue or yellow).

99hawk409
02-10-2003, 05:35 PM
I just broke my first drive shaft.

The front drive shafts are about 50.00$

It looks like a fairly simple fix to just repair the original.

It broke where the shaft and hub join.

Is there a popular easy fix for it?

Thanks for any help,
Bob

This is on my Storm RTR
:)

Got Speed
02-10-2003, 07:35 PM
Originally posted by 99hawk409
I just broke my first drive shaft.

The front drive shafts are about 50.00$

It looks like a fairly simple fix to just repair the original.

It broke where the shaft and hub join.

Is there a popular easy fix for it?

Thanks for any help,
Bob

This is on my Storm RTR
:)

I really doubt anything will hold it together. You may want to try JB weld but I doubt it will work. Dynamite has front CVDs for $40.

Gmanlusk2004
02-10-2003, 08:46 PM
Well i'm ready to race now, i got new tires, servo, body, and now i need an engine that is race worthy. I run on an all around track. Has a looong straight, but the rest is pretty technical. What engine do yall recommend for around 150 bux. i have 214, but i need a starter box 2.
Thanks,
Garrett

carlton eppes
02-10-2003, 08:52 PM
Try an RB CE 3 port it's a really good motor. Also around $130

fearsome
02-10-2003, 09:00 PM
Originally posted by Got Speed
I really doubt anything will hold it together. You may want to try JB weld but I doubt it will work. Dynamite has front CVDs for $40.

any one know if kyosho universal drive shafts fit??
I dont like the GS CVDs (well CVDs in general)!!
or know any universal drive shafts that will fit the storm?

Gmanlusk2004
02-10-2003, 09:36 PM
Well i'm ready to race now, i got new tires, servo, body, and now i need an engine that is race worthy. I run on an all around track. Has a looong straight, but the rest is pretty technical. What engine do yall recommend for around 150 bux. i have 214, but i need a starter box 2.

I asked this question, but here is a picture of the layout of the track.
Thanks,
Garrett

jrd21
02-10-2003, 10:18 PM
GMAN

If you want my personal opinion, if I was you I would keep saving my money until I had around $275.00 to spend on the engine alone. I really don't think you will be trully happy with another sport engine for racing if that is your true intention. The Rb engine that someone mentioned earlier is one of the best sport engines that you can buy along with the new pullstart Ofna hyper 8-port engine. But they are not that much better than the stock GS engine if you want truly insane torque and horsepower you are going to have to spend some money. By the way, from the looks of the track layout you are going to need all the power you can get to negotiate that tight track as all the large and difficult jumps are right as you are coming out of the turns you did not list any footage from turn to jumps but they look tight which requires serious torque in order to get you buggy up to a fast enough speed to clear those jumps safely. I personally use a Ofna O-1BP engine, that I was a little leary of at first because I usaully run RB Concepts engines in my race vehicles and I have a Trinity Sirio TX-18 in my Racing T-Maxx, but the Ofna Has Proven itself time and time again in my Strom Pro buggy and it has insane torque and crazy top end speed. Some other good engine choices in this price range would be:

Ofna 0-1BP $239.99-269.99

O.S. V01B $239.99-269.99

Rb Concepts RS 7 Europa $199.99-239.99

RB Concepts RS 7 Worlds $239.99-269.99

Ofna 0-1 $219.99-239.99

Or you could championship with a championship winning motor like:

RB Cocepts C5 $319.99-349.99

Trinity Sirio $279.99-319.99

Rossi Black Magic .21 Engine $324.99-399.99

Like I said this is just my opinion. I have been racing for 3 years and been back in the hobby for 7 years now and I to race on a small tight track such as yours only mine is probably a little smaller maybe it's really set-up to race our 1/10th. scale gas trucks such as my XXX-NT and we can not really use all the top end in our buggies but it is there in reserve though when we get to a bigger track or we build another one at our local hobby shop. Like I said earlier if I was you I would keep practicing with the GS engine and save a few more dead presidents until I could spring for a true racing enigne that will put you on the podium.

Peace Out!!:cool:

GOOD LUCK!!!:D

Jason:cool:

jrd21
02-10-2003, 10:22 PM
OH YEAH!!!!

If I was you GMAN I would keep a very close eye on E-BAY for a new motor there are some really good deals on there sometimes and there is on occassion some really good lucking used engines on there that look to be in good shape, just a suggesstion.

jason

Got Speed
02-11-2003, 10:34 AM
Originally posted by fearsome
any one know if kyosho universal drive shafts fit??
I dont like the GS CVDs (well CVDs in general)!!
or know any universal drive shafts that will fit the storm?

Universals and CVDs are pretty much the same thing. Dynamite calls them universals but they are CVDs. Same thing in that case. Unfortuanatly $35-$40 is the cheapest I have seen for replacement driveshafts. The dynamite ones are $35-$40. I don't know about Kyosho driveshafts.

99hawk409
02-11-2003, 12:41 PM
Originally posted by Got Speed
I really doubt anything will hold it together. You may want to try JB weld but I doubt it will work. Dynamite has front CVDs for $40.

I took another look at the CVD and well nothing's broken.

It lost the pin that holds the axle and drive shaft together.

I'm gonna try a piece of an old allen wrench in place of the missing pin. It seems pretty strong but probably not as strong as the correct part.

Thanks for the info....40$ is a bit more resonable.

BobZ

PS
I'm going to keep the front CVDs lubricated, there's alot of sparkley metal shavings around the wheel bearings, i'm sure it came from the CVDs.

Thanks again

fearsome
02-11-2003, 08:07 PM
Originally posted by Got Speed
Universals and CVDs are pretty much the same thing. Dynamite calls them universals but they are CVDs. Same thing in that case. Unfortuanatly $35-$40 is the cheapest I have seen for replacement driveshafts. The dynamite ones are $35-$40. I don't know about Kyosho driveshafts.

Yes they are essentially the same thing but different in design....
you will know what i mean if you have a look at both type.
CVD are just more prone to wear and just more fragile than universals....
I know kyosho uni's are more expensive but i dont mind paying extra for a quality part....at our club I have never seen a kyosho uni fail but seen plently of CVD break.....my CVDs are all wore compared to my mates unis are still like new!

Gmanlusk2004
02-12-2003, 08:32 PM
I found an O.S. RZ V01-B for 175!! It is used, but it has only 2 quarts of fuel run through it. One for break in and the other for bashing. It is the guys backup engine for his Kanai 2. He is gettin' out of the hobby. His loss, my gain! i hope... do yall think it would be a good idea to buy a used engine. He is a senior member on RCuniverse bb. lol... but really i think i might have found the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow!
L8r,
Garrett

jrd21
02-13-2003, 12:57 AM
GMAN


See I told you all you have to do is look hard enough and you could find a good deal. I think it is a very good deal if it truly has only two quarts of fuel through it. The OS. engines pistons and sleeves do not last as long as some other engines on the market but they do hold up well, usually for at least 2 1/2 gallons so you should be safe with this engine, I do know guys who have gotten as much as 4 1/2 gallons out of theirs. Keep in mind though I am basing this on guys who run their engines very aggressively in our races so if you run your engine on the safe side a little leaner than you should get more fuel through it between piston/sleeve changes. One good thing about this engine is that it is available at most hobby stores so finding rebuild parts should not be a problem and I have seen many guys on e-bay selling the major rebuild parts such as the piston/sleeves and the connecting rods and the crankshafts for really cheap when compared to some other engines. May I ask where you found the engine is it someone you know or someone on E-BAY? If it is someone you know and trust I would buy it tomorrow before he changes his mind if it is someone on E-BAY than read their feedback or you can give me their username as I have dealt with alot of the guys on E-BAY I may know them.

Good Luck,

Jason:cool:

tjtracer
02-13-2003, 01:59 AM
i just got a storm and i am looking for mods....if anyone could give me a list of good things to get for this car it would be helpfull....and maybe a web sit or two where i can get them.....thank you very much... tjt_extreme@hotmail.com

Boostedbruiser
02-13-2003, 09:00 AM
First off i wanna say is i love the buggies. Very duarable and handle great. I just got into 1/8 scale and bought 2 used GS Storms. I was wondering if theres anyone out there that would be willing to Photocopy a manual and send it to me. I have no instructions for either buggy. I know i can download the manual from horizon hobby but the da#n PDF file is encrypted, so i CAN NOT print the manual.

I'll give a few bucks for the copy or if you are willing to send me yours i will copy it myself and send the booklet back.

Or if anyone knows where i can find a booklet online that will PRINT please tell me. :cool:

If you can help please Email me at ........
Hillk@USFK.KOREA.ARMY.MIL

Thanks
Kevin:)

Got Speed
02-13-2003, 09:36 AM
Originally posted by Boostedbruiser
First off i wanna say is i love the buggies. Very duarable and handle great. I just got into 1/8 scale and bought 2 used GS Storms. I was wondering if theres anyone out there that would be willing to Photocopy a manual and send it to me. I have no instructions for either buggy. I know i can download the manual from horizon hobby but the da#n PDF file is encrypted, so i CAN NOT print the manual.

I'll give a few bucks for the copy or if you are willing to send me yours i will copy it myself and send the booklet back.

Or if anyone knows where i can find a booklet online that will PRINT please tell me. :cool:

If you can help please Email me at ........
Hillk@USFK.KOREA.ARMY.MIL

Thanks
Kevin:)

You can get the manual here: http://www.twf8.ws/new/home.htm

99hawk409- The metal shavings are probably from being run while the pin was out. The CVD bone spinning on the axel. Put shrink wrap on the bell part of the bone once the pin is in. This will keep if from coming out. And yes, the difference is really CVDs won't last as long as universals. But accomplish pretty much the same task.

Gmanlusk2004
02-13-2003, 09:57 AM
well jr.... thanks for the support, but i got a reply from him that told me that he ended up selling it locally. O well, i found one in 30 minutes, i can find another!
L8r,
Garrett

Killer87
02-13-2003, 10:22 AM
tjtracer: Look at your diff cases. If they have holes on the sides for screws then you're fine. If they dont then you should first buy the new style of diff cases. Then you should buy the Storm Pro, Dynamite, Fioroni, or Hardcore Racing shock towers. A rear diff brace, and some chassis braces. And finaly some suspension mounts. Possibly if you want better chassis. Then you should be ready to go.

tjtracer
02-13-2003, 11:22 AM
thanks killer87 i wil look into that.....do you know a site where i can get the parts.....it would be very helpful,,,,,thank you very much.......tim

Killer87
02-13-2003, 11:39 AM
www.horizonhobby.com for parts by dynamite, gs, and hardcore. For Fioroni you'll have to get it from ur LHS

Gmanlusk2004
02-13-2003, 12:59 PM
actually, i have found an amazing site for hop up parts for the storm. www.rcdiscounters.com

They have fioroni, and all of the replacement parts for the storm.

L8r,
Garrett

Killer87
02-13-2003, 01:01 PM
oh yeah. i forgot about them. they have like all of fioroni's stuff. they also have cheap rims too.

Gmanlusk2004
02-13-2003, 01:02 PM
yup.. they are good for the hop up fans.
L8r,
Garrett

Babaluman2002
02-13-2003, 10:31 PM
I got a use gs storm and I need to find the factory settings, the motor is already broken in but it seems that when I hit the throttle it goes really slow and then dies all while the engine is reving up loud as heck. Someone help me please.

Babaluman2002
02-14-2003, 09:40 AM
I just got a used gs storm and it does not have the manual. Does anyone knows the settings for the carb to reset it to factory settings. Let me know please. It also iddles high but when I hit the throttle it bogs down and goes really slow and then it dies all this while the engine is screamin. Help me.

Got Speed
02-14-2003, 04:06 PM
Where is the link I posted? Surely some mod dosn't consider that spam!? Give me a break.:mad:

whatever
02-15-2003, 02:30 AM
could someone plz give me the freakin part number for the silicone shock bladders in the storm shocks.i've looked all over horizon and no luck.:(

Killer87
02-15-2003, 09:29 AM
what exactly is the bladder?

Killer87
02-15-2003, 09:30 AM
nvm i just figured it out

Killer87
02-15-2003, 09:37 AM
they dont sell it separately i think. I think you have to buy the whole shock sets because there is no part # for just the bladders but for the sets there is.

tjtracer
02-15-2003, 09:38 AM
i do not run bladders,,,,i have a new set for ya......give me your addy and i will send them to you... tjt_extreme@hotmail.com

tjtracer
02-15-2003, 10:20 AM
does anyone have a backplate so i can remove the pullstarter on my gs engine...if so,,how much...if you want to trade,,tell me what you are looking for or what you want and i might have it....thank you.........tim........

tjtracer
02-15-2003, 05:20 PM
does anyone know if the front and rear bulkheads are the same on the storm,,,,please lmk....thank you....

Killer87
02-15-2003, 05:32 PM
they are the same.

tjtracer
02-15-2003, 06:23 PM
thank you very much killer87 ,,,,that helps me a bunch.....do you maybe have some stock one you can get rid of.....anyone have a bulkhead for the storm..........

Killer87
02-15-2003, 06:43 PM
sorry but I need my backup one.

you can get one here. http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/services/advanceresultsDetail.asp?strProd=STORM%20BULKHEAD&strSearchType=ALL&strInCategory=ALL&strInManufacturer=ALL they are only 11 bucks.

Also: did you break your old one? Did it have little holes on the sides like in the pic on the page above? If it didnt it was the older version. the newer version at the site above has holes on the side for the new style shock towers and also is stronger.

hope this helps
erik

Rc_madd
02-17-2003, 10:21 PM
I am selling my B01 Motor off of my storm, it is about 1 month old and has only had 1.5 quarts of fuel in it including break-in. It still has great compression. I am upgrading motors and dont need it anymore.

Email me for info or pics
gr8seller@mtsinet.com

I am asking $90.00 Shipped to 48 states

Killer87
02-18-2003, 08:26 AM
there was one that sold on ebay 2 days ago. It sold for 60. and it was new too. Rc- you can try selling it on ebay, but you will probably wont get much out of it.

bravo_whiskey
02-18-2003, 01:39 PM
Does anyone know any online retailers that sell torsen diffs for the Storm? What is the cheapest you've seen them sell for? Does anyone besides fioroni sell them for the Storm? Thanks for any info. provided

Gmanlusk2004
02-18-2003, 04:42 PM
www.rcdiscounters.com

L8r,
Garrett

Got Speed
02-18-2003, 05:01 PM
bravo_whiskey- Gmanlusk2004 gave you the link to where you can get fiorini ones. I don't think anyone makes torsen diffs other than them for the storm though. They are pretty spendy at about $100+ each:eek:

bravo_whiskey
02-19-2003, 09:04 AM
Thanks guys for the info. I'm sure those fioroni diffs are bulletproof. They sure look nice as well. I don't think i'm ready to spend that many clams on a diff. My wife would have my hide. That kind of money buys an awful lot of baby formula and diapers!

carlton eppes
02-20-2003, 07:38 PM
Gotspeed and Killer if you haven't heard the race that was scheduled at Pearland this weekend has been moved to M&M. The city of Pearland threw a new permit requirement at the track today so.....................

tjtracer
02-20-2003, 07:40 PM
I NEED HELP,,,,,,,i really need a diff case(bulkhead)for my storm.........i do not have a credit card so it is very hard for me to get one online........if anyone has one they will sell or trade,,,please lmk......and any other patrs as well......just tell me how much or what you would trade for.........thanks..

Got Speed
02-20-2003, 08:18 PM
Originally posted by tjtracer
I NEED HELP,,,,,,,i really need a diff case(bulkhead)for my storm.........i do not have a credit card so it is very hard for me to get one online........if anyone has one they will sell or trade,,,please lmk......and any other patrs as well......just tell me how much or what you would trade for.........thanks..

Have you tried getting an LHS to order one for you? I think horizon hobby also lets you send them a money order in the mail too.

Got Speed
02-20-2003, 08:22 PM
Originally posted by carlton eppes
Gotspeed and Killer if you haven't heard the race that was scheduled at Pearland this weekend has been moved to M&M. The city of Pearland threw a new permit requirement at the track today so.....................

Do you have a link to their track?

carlton eppes
02-20-2003, 09:55 PM
http://www.teamhoustonrc.com there will be pics and directions for M&M.

Killer87
02-20-2003, 10:30 PM
ill see if my dad will let me but i seriously doubt it. the forecast even says that it wont rain on Saturday too. oh welll.

tjtracer
02-21-2003, 09:22 AM
hey guys,,,i have the stock gs .21,,,,,,the carb is giving me problems.......it runs way to rich in the bottom end,,,,,and loads up......but i can lean it on the bottom 1/32 of a turn and then it is so lean it dies.......do any of you know why?.......how good is the ofna carbs,,,,,i got one in a trade and i am thinking about trying it.........any help with this problem would be great.........thanks ......tim

Got Speed
02-21-2003, 09:24 AM
Thanks, looks like a nice track. Pretty big!

carlton eppes
02-21-2003, 09:31 PM
tjtracer
How long does it idle before it loads up and dies? How easy is it to change the adjustment on the carb? If it's too easy maybe the oring is worn and leaking. I don't know anything about the OFNA carbs.

Killer
I talked to several guys that looked at the track today and they say no standing water and no mud.

Gotspeed
The track is 126X56 if I remember right. Not BIG but not bad.

Got Speed
02-22-2003, 12:07 PM
Originally posted by carlton eppes
tjtracer
How long does it idle before it loads up and dies? How easy is it to change the adjustment on the carb? If it's too easy maybe the oring is worn and leaking. I don't know anything about the OFNA carbs.

Killer
I talked to several guys that looked at the track today and they say no standing water and no mud.

Gotspeed
The track is 126X56 if I remember right. Not BIG but not bad.

I was talking about the individual lanes. They look pretty big. Im used to 8ft lanes. But I race 1/10 Gas so it just looks big I guess. LOL I wish I could go out there and race.

99hawk409
02-22-2003, 03:59 PM
Has anybody lowered the gearing on their storm?

The 'Hobby Town' chain store that i stopped at said,

"Uhh, i don't think there is anything for that."

There's got to be...no?

Thanks for any help,
Bob

carlton eppes
02-23-2003, 10:54 PM
How much lower do you need to go? Do you have a 13 tooth clutchbell? GS doesn't make a larger main gear yet.

99hawk409
02-24-2003, 03:35 PM
I just wanted to see how much of a difference the gearing would make.
I can't believe there isn't a clutch bell that is interchangable
with the GS one.

I do have the 13tooth one. Only reason i know is 'cuz mine broke and i had to get a new one.

Thanks anyway.

Bob

:cool:

Killer87
02-24-2003, 05:06 PM
ive run both the mugen and ofna clutch bells without a problem. Ofna makes a 12t clutch bell and kysho makes a 11t.

carlton eppes
02-24-2003, 06:37 PM
The only problem I've seen with the 11 & 12 tooth bells are the smaller bearings they use are smaller and don't hold up as well as the regular bearings. I haven't used the GS bells since the very 1st one with my old RTR. Since then I've used the Mugen, OFNA and Kyosho bells.

Gmanlusk2004
02-24-2003, 07:08 PM
i use a mugen 14 t. this hauls.

L8r,
Garrett

fearsome
02-25-2003, 03:15 AM
How is your main drive gear holding up using mugen/kyosho bells??
I've gone thru 3 main gear cuz of using the mugen and kyosho bells...now i'm back to the GS 13 tooth and main gear is fine.

Killer87
02-25-2003, 08:35 AM
are you sure you aren't puting the gears too close together? That would make you go through main gears. I haven't gone through one yet.

Gmanlusk2004
02-25-2003, 08:37 PM
same here, never been through one main gear yet.

What do yall think i should get?

a new engine, and a starter box

or

a new pipe, shock towers, receiver pack, and universals for the center and rear?

L8r,
Garrett

Killer87
02-25-2003, 09:46 PM
gman: new engine and starter box

You can eithere get a used starter box on ebay or you can get a great deal at http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=57_76_77&products_id=2749&osCsid=a996097ea78a468a0e167723f8de1ade

it includes everything for only 100 bucks. starter box, glow clip, power panel, battery, and charger.

For an engine you can get one used or new on ebay cheaply.

this one is a great deal.

http://**************/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=3117414981&rd=1

too bad my dad wont let me get it. Its the O.S. V-01bp and the gal said it only had 1/2 to 3/4 a gallon through it. the reason why it so chead is because she named it O.S. 01 and nobody knows what that is supposed to mean. Others are selling for like 150 with 1 1/2 to 2 gallons through them.

hope this helps

Killer87
02-25-2003, 09:48 PM
sorry i forgot the ebay links dont work here. just search for ".21" and it ends in like 1hr and 50mins

carlton eppes
02-25-2003, 11:01 PM
In a year and a half with the Mugen bells I've replaced 1 maingear. That wasn't the bells fault the motor moved and killed the teeth on the bell and main gear. Use the paper trick to set the lash. If it's too tight it'll whine.

fearsome
02-26-2003, 12:05 AM
The main gears that i've gone thru are still useable, its just that it is showing signs of wear prematurely after 1 race day using mugen and kyosho bells....I have been racing for many years on a competitive level and will not risk running on gears that are worn...any pro racer will agree.
Now i'm using the GS bell the gear is fine and has been for many races now...

Stormxxxnt
02-26-2003, 02:21 PM
I would like to put a truck body on my Storm, does anyone make
one large enough. Have any of you done this?

The track I race at puts me in the monster truck class because
I am the only one with 1/8 buggie. I would like to make my buggie
look more approperate for the class I have to run in.

Got Speed
02-26-2003, 06:11 PM
Originally posted by Stormxxxnt
I would like to put a truck body on my Storm, does anyone make
one large enough. Have any of you done this?

The track I race at puts me in the monster truck class because
I am the only one with 1/8 buggie. I would like to make my buggie
look more approperate for the class I have to run in.

There isn't anyone who makes a truck style body and a buggy is too wide to fit a truck body on. LOL your buggy will whop on the MTs if you are a half-way decent driver.

whatever
02-26-2003, 08:58 PM
how do you guys set your front toe in if you don't have some kind of setup tool?and also do you find yourself using more positive or negative toe in?

tjtracer
02-27-2003, 03:53 AM
hey guys,,me again ,,,,do any of you know if the bulkhead off of a mp 7.5 will fit the storm......if you have a answer for me ,,,,,please lmk............tim

Got Speed
02-27-2003, 09:05 AM
tjtracer- I am not sure, but I really doubt that a MP 7.5 bulkhead will fit.

tjtracer
02-28-2003, 02:11 AM
hey,,got speed,,,,,thanks for the responce,,,,,,,anyway,i am selling the storm roller with only about 1/2 gallon run time on the car,,,,I WOULD RATHER TRADE IT FOR ANOTHER TYPE OF ROLLER,,,,,,,,IF ANY OF YOU WANT TO BUY OR TRADE ,,,,,PLEASE MAKE AN OFFER....PLEASE SEND ME A PM OR E-MAIL.....THANKS.......... tjt_extreme@hotmail.com

rc4me2
02-28-2003, 05:54 PM
will someone please comment on the pros and cons of the storm pro?

i'm interested in parts availability, durability (what parts, how often), handling, tunability, etc

durability and parts support are important....hopefully ill hear that not too much ever breaks on this car (or wears out)

...comparing to hyper 7 pro and mugen xr

thanks

tjtracer
03-01-2003, 03:54 AM
hey guys,,i want another storm roller for a back up...i have team ed. rc10gt with brand new xtm.15 engine,,it has graphite towers and a POLISHED chassis...it will come with extra springs and stock towers,,along with anything else i can find,,,,,,,lmk.... tjt_extreme@hotmail.com

Got Speed
03-01-2003, 09:41 AM
Originally posted by rc4me2
will someone please comment on the pros and cons of the storm pro?

i'm interested in parts availability, durability (what parts, how often), handling, tunability, etc

durability and parts support are important....hopefully ill hear that not too much ever breaks on this car (or wears out)

...comparing to hyper 7 pro and mugen xr

thanks

Between the Hyper 7 and the storm first look at your LHS or track to see which(if any) they stock parts for. Between those two they are very similar. Now Im not sure about the Mugen though.

HyperActive
03-01-2003, 12:12 PM
What do you Nitro guys use to charge you starter boxes, Transmitter and receiver batteries.

I am using the plug in the wall over night chargers.
After hitting the track and my receiver battery died I need to get a quick field charger......

Ant suggestions???

Got Speed
03-01-2003, 12:33 PM
Originally posted by HyperActive
What do you Nitro guys use to charge you starter boxes, Transmitter and receiver batteries.

I am using the plug in the wall over night chargers.
After hitting the track and my receiver battery died I need to get a quick field charger......

Ant suggestions???

I used to have a sea of wall chargers the day before race day all plugged in too. Then I bought a Superbrain 959 charger and a fan. I charge by TX and RX packs, starter box batts, micro rs4 batts, glow ignitor and anything else that I can charge.

It is $46 at tower hobbies. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAVN1&P=7

jrd21
03-01-2003, 02:50 PM
I also use a MRC superbrain 959. It is the best charger for the money and it is AC and DC operated so you can take it to the track with you and charge your packs between races that way you always have a peaked pack for the start of the race.

Jason

Love My SuperBrain 959!!:D

slodsm
03-01-2003, 08:24 PM
I use a Duratrax Intellipeak AC/DC quick charger, I have never had a false peak with it and I use it at the track every race day repeaking my storm and XNT between the heats and the main

tjtracer
03-03-2003, 01:22 AM
does anyone know what bodys will fit the storm.....

Got Speed
03-03-2003, 10:53 AM
Originally posted by tjtracer
does anyone know what bodys will fit the storm.....

Just about any 1/8 buggy body will with some work but the bodys for the Kyosho work best.

Got Speed
03-03-2003, 10:53 AM
Originally posted by tjtracer
does anyone know what bodys will fit the storm.....

Just about any 1/8 buggy body will with some work but the bodys for the Kyosho work best.

Gmanlusk2004
03-03-2003, 01:48 PM
i got a pro line crowd pleazer 7.5 on my storm. I had to do some different trimming on it to make it work, but it does.

L8r,
Garrett

integra d12
03-03-2003, 11:55 PM
I would agree, I run a crowd pleaser as well. I to did some creative trimming but over all it fits well. I had to trim a extra slot for the stering arm to pass through in the front, and I also spaced the rear body mount towards the front to get more room between the hole and the end of the body. I think overall it works better then the stock body its easier to get on and off and it look way better, hell it prob. performs better too.

tjtracer
03-04-2003, 12:14 AM
hey guys,,thanks a million for the reply's on the body,,,,i guess its time to order one............tim

integra d12
03-04-2003, 12:21 AM
here is a quick pic. as you might see the slot on the front behind the tire that is really the only funky thing I had to do. The linkages are really close to the body but they don't come in contact with the body very much not even enough to scratch the paint much. Oh and you can't fallow the lines on the front you kinda have to trim it out ruff and clean it up as you mount the body to fit it just right. don't ask the answer is yes I like green.:D

tjtracer
03-04-2003, 12:28 AM
looks nice,,,,,do you have any 1/8 parts to trade or sell....if so lmk what you would need for them.....thanks for the pic....

jrd21
03-04-2003, 01:38 AM
I will give you guys a some helpful hints on getting these aftermarket bodies cut clean. Take your stock body that you have and set it down on top of the after market body and use a water marker or dry erase pen is best to trace the body lines onto the after market body I have done this many times and I am using the Kyosho Trinity Wasp body very cool body.

Hope this helps a little.:D

Jason

bravo_whiskey
03-04-2003, 04:31 PM
I'm considering getting a starter box for my Storm R2R. Can I use the flywheel that is on the R2R or do I need to switch to the Pro flywheel? What is the difference? Also is there a difference in the cutout for the flywheel on the Pro chassis? I guess what i'm asking is: Can you use a starter box with the R2R? Thanks guys.

jrd21
03-04-2003, 05:13 PM
Yes I used a starter box with my almost ready to run which is the same thing as the R2R except it did not come with radio and engine so I put a OFNA 0-1BP on it and used a stater box. Now my GS Storm is full Pro though. If there is a difference in the cut out it is not noticable I can not tell.


Jason:cool:

Gmanlusk2004
03-04-2003, 09:03 PM
why did you have to do that??? I used the same body and i cut it out just like i would w/ the stock storm body and i didn't have to do anything like that.
hmm. weird

L8r,
Garrett

jrd21
03-04-2003, 10:04 PM
Gman who are you talking too?

Jason:cool:

Gmanlusk2004
03-04-2003, 10:43 PM
integra

l8r,
Garrett

Killer87
03-05-2003, 03:30 PM
bravo: yes you can. I use an ofna box on my rtr without any mods.

whatever
03-05-2003, 11:12 PM
hi guys,to get equal amounts of camber left and right(front)i seem to have to have alot more threads showing on the right turnbuckle.is this normal?.and by alot i mean 2 or three more threads.:confused:

Got Speed
03-06-2003, 12:44 PM
One side could be threaded more on one side than on the other. It's not a big deal unless one side is only threaded a couple of threads. If youre still worried about it just take them out and rethread them the same.

integra d12
03-06-2003, 03:46 PM
not that it matters but the storm pro is about 5mm longer then the storm rtr if that is what your refearing to. Also I did it so I would have more area around the hole more of a personal opinion.

Got Speed
03-06-2003, 06:26 PM
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=118233&highlight=GS+Storm

That is my GS Storm I am selling with the engine.

TAW
03-07-2003, 08:15 PM
Does anyone make stronger front "c" hubs for the storm other the Fioroni, those are like 80 bucks.

Got Speed
03-07-2003, 11:34 PM
Originally posted by TAW
Does anyone make stronger front "c" hubs for the storm other the Fioroni, those are like 80 bucks.

There isn't any other C-Hubs other than Fioroni's. They make good stuff but way overpirced.

HyperActive
03-08-2003, 04:58 PM
Originally posted by jrd21
I also use a MRC superbrain 959. It is the best charger for the money and it is AC and DC operated so you can take it to the track with you and charge your packs between races that way you always have a peaked pack for the start of the race.

Jason

Love My SuperBrain 959!!:D


What rate do you charge your receiver batteries at ?
And what mV

Thanks

jrd21
03-08-2003, 05:25 PM
Hyper

I just usually let it use it's default settings within it's automatic mode they do not get hot so I figure they are not being hurt any. I think the default is 3 amp charge and 40 mv., but I am not positive.

jason:cool:

TAW
03-09-2003, 09:02 AM
I just replaced the stock motor on my storm with an OS V01B and have noticed two things. First if I attach the motor mounts to the motor and tighten them all the way the bottom of the mounts are bowed out, so I put them on loosley mounted the motor on the chassis and then tighned the screw down. Is this "crushing the motor" or is it normal. The second thing I have noticed is that the rear driveshaft (from center diff to rear) just barelt rubs in the corner of the engine/motor mount. Would I be better off getting the pro mounts (don't they sit lower?) and pro flywheel?

TAW
03-09-2003, 10:56 AM
In regards to my earlier post, I took the motor off and used the dremel to take just a little off the inside of both motor mounts. I also adjusted the motor (sits a little crooked) to make it clear the rear drive shaft.

jrd21
03-09-2003, 12:27 PM
As soon as you can afford them you need to get the storm pro mounts. They are not that expensive. With your engine sitting crooked you will probably start eating spur gears or clutch bells with that eingine especially.

Jason:cool:

Killer87
03-09-2003, 05:21 PM
or get the fioroni mounts

carlton eppes
03-10-2003, 12:11 AM
Also when you change to the pro or Fioroni mounts you'll need a smaller flywheel since those mounts are shorter than the RTR mounts.

Killer87
03-10-2003, 08:31 AM
Hey carlton. How was the rc pro series? I went down there on Saturday and saw your car. That track was way too setup for 1/10 dont you think? Anyway, How did you do? I saw you have your little antennae in the drive axle problem. Did it run fine after you replaced the wire? It seemed like it run fine when I saw it but I didn't stay for more than 2-3 hours.

Erik

carlton eppes
03-10-2003, 09:11 AM
Dude you shoulda told me who you were! I still don't know how I finished that race with only 1 inch of antenna. After I replaced it everything was cool plus I changed rear springs, shock angles and tires which helped a lot. I managed a 2nd in the B so I felt better about it. The B was 20 laps which I didn't realize before the race started............ good thing cause I woulda been worried about fuel. Luckily I had enough fuel to go the distance but there wasn't much in the tank at the end.

Killer87
03-10-2003, 05:18 PM
I didn't want to bother you so i didn't. Maybe you saw me but I doubt you'll remember. If you do remeber seeing a 5'2" kid with a white shirt with a tennis ball on it and white shorts and also the unforgettable shaggy 70's style haircut then you saw me. Your wife might remember, ask her if she remembers my description asking about the o'donnel head and the paintjob.

Thats pretty good that you placed 2nd in the B-main. Considering all of the awesome racers there.

Erik

RCMark
03-10-2003, 05:27 PM
I'm getting ready to buy my first 1/8 buggy and would like a constructive comparison between the Storm and the OFNA PBS.

My LHS sells the Storm, recommends it and stocks parts but not for OFNA cars. I understand the advantage that represents but in looking at the 2 cars it seems that the Hyper 7 PBS ($500 RTR incl starter box) is a better deal than the Storm ($550).

No question that the Storm has a better radio but it seems the Hyper 7 PBS has a better engine and like most of the rest of you I have other radios.

Interested in your thoughts.

Killer87
03-10-2003, 07:57 PM
Get the Storm.... if your lhs carries storm parts and not ofna then get the storm. It will be a hassle getting parts and especially if ur down at the track and u break something, then u wont run the rest of the day. Also the radio I think is a must. I dont like AM after i saw what happened to my bro car when it ran away with AM. Also if you notice, there are practically no pro drivers going with the h7. Whereas there is with the GS. I agree that the H7 has a better motor but if you are worried about that then I would go with the Storm pro, rb 3 or 5 port, FM radio and good servos. That would be the best choice if your worried about performance and power.

hope this helps
erik

TAW
03-10-2003, 08:43 PM
Hey does anybody know whats included in the parts support kit that horizon sells for 225.00? Also what is the difference between the RTR and pro shocks? Is it just the bodies and caps or are there internal differences as well, I can't seem to find them sold as a set on horizon.

Thanks

maxxbashr
03-12-2003, 11:07 AM
All,
I recently purchased a GS Storm, and I have replaced nearly the entire truck with hex head screws. I guess I am wondering what the interest would be to create a kit for the GS Storm. there are tons of screws on the storm, and personally I HATE phillips head screws. If 10 people would commit to purchasing one, it would make it worth my while to assemble a kit for the storm. The storm kit would include all hexhead screws to replace the entire chassis screws, as well as include 4x20 screws and locknuts for the lower Arm mounts to eliminate any chassis wear from those vulnerable points on the chassis. I have not checked exact prices from my supplier (I currently do kits for the T maxx with much success) but I would imagine, given the large number of screws on the Storm, that the kit would be in the 35 dollar range (shipped). I can post some pics of my storm with the hex screws if anyone is interested. If you have any questions, either post them here or send me personal mail at billr@twistedmotorsports.com

thanks

Bill

dagoson
03-12-2003, 12:51 PM
hey guys i have a question about my storm rtr.when i pull the pull starter the cord just pulls not catching anything,if i spin the flywheel backward until the cord catches i can pull it and hope it starts on that pull i took the pullstarter off and looked i didnt see anything wrong. anyone have a clue what could be going on:confused:

maxxbashr
03-12-2003, 02:23 PM
Sounds like a one way bearing....

dagoson
03-12-2003, 04:59 PM
how do i fix it,the motor needs a rebuild now so should i just pick up a new pull starter too?

Killer87
03-12-2003, 05:01 PM
i had that happen to me. I just use the starter box now. Does anyone have a backplate I can buy?

TAW
03-12-2003, 09:09 PM
Anybody got a part number for the little washers that go under the shock pistons, or is there an alternative that may be stronger?

whatever
03-12-2003, 10:26 PM
i use 2 2.5mm steel washers, try it out.does anyone have the part numbers for the little c-clips at the bottom of the shocks that holds the orings and spacers in also the number for the spacers?:confused:

Got Speed
03-13-2003, 05:00 PM
TAW- Same thing happened to me. I now run 2 2.5mm washers like whatever.

cbr74
03-13-2003, 06:54 PM
Can one of you Storm guys take a measurement of the distance between the bottom mounting holes of your engine mounts?

Thanks

bravo_whiskey
03-14-2003, 10:15 AM
TAW- the part # for those washers is GSC601001

whatever- it doesn't appear that there is a part # for the c-clips for the shocks. I'd try a hardware store, or maybe a crossover part at your hobby shop.

CBR74- the distance between the holes on the motor mounts is 30mm or nearly 1- 3/16". These are the holes that mate to the chassis. I think that is the measurement you are looking for.

Now for my question. How do you guys run a 5-cell receiver pack in the Storm? It doesn't appear as though a hump or flat pack will fit in the battery box. Does GS make a different style box?

bravo_whiskey
03-14-2003, 10:32 AM
TAW- I called Horizon Hobby to inquire about that Storm support package. I was curious about that too. Customer service told me all that was included, however I couldn't write it all down fast enough. The gist of it was: a clutch assembly, most all the suspension parts- front and rear, gear boxes and diffs, center diff, brakes, tires wheels and foams, a body and wing, and some other misc. parts. It sounded like almost every replacement part you could need except chassis and motor.

TAW
03-14-2003, 10:34 AM
Bravo, Thanks for the info. I have a 5cell hump pack in mine, its a tight fit but it will go.

jrd21
03-14-2003, 01:46 PM
I use Ofna's brick pack batteries it is the best fit of anything that I have tried so far.:cool:

Jason:cool:

carlton eppes
03-14-2003, 01:53 PM
I run the 5 cell 2 over 3 hump pack. You have to stand the reciever up on it's side and push it to the motor side of the box then you can set the hump pack in and slide it towards the switch it's a snug fit but it works.

TAW
03-14-2003, 06:30 PM
I got those braces off of ebay for the front and rear, I am putting together my new Pro today and I can get the holes to line up on the rear, is there a difference in this pro chassis that causing this?

http://homepage.mac.com/twilliams/DCP_0510.jpg

charly
03-17-2003, 09:18 AM
TAW,

Maybe these braces are for the new storm pro chassis with a wider rear.
By the way in the pictures i saw the brace was installed before the rear box, not behind it...

TAW
03-17-2003, 09:39 AM
These are not the new "GS" braces these are the one that are being sold on ebay. There is about a 2mm difference in width between the braces and the arm mounts. I e-mailed the guy who I bought them from and he says he has sold many of then without problem. I was able to put them on my RTR but the Arms were already mounted on the car and I had to hammer them in, this is putting an enourmous amount of outward pressure on the already weak chassis. Has anybody else bought these off ebay and were you successful? If you were can you measure the distance between the holes in the brace. The guy told me to flip the lower arm mounts around (left to right) but this does not change the distance between the hinge pins only changes the angle of the arms (Anti-squat) right?

P.S. any body know when the "GS" braces are coming out?

Gmanlusk2004
03-17-2003, 08:22 PM
Hey... look at me, i'm post number 700!!!! yay. that's a lot of posts about a storm. Anyway, i've been runnin my storm lately and the other day... my gas tank broke! the inside of it where the filter stone connects to the plastic tube to go to the fuel tubing cracked in half. So now i have to buy a whole new tank. How much do those run for anyway?

L8r,
Garrett

700!!!

TAW
03-18-2003, 08:29 PM
Anybody know whats up with rcdiscounters.com, the site has been down for a few weeks with a message that states they will be back on March 10th. Last time i checked it is march 18th have they gone out of biz?

Got Speed
03-18-2003, 08:46 PM
Gmanlusk2004- That happened to me too. I ended up taking out the nipple and screwing it in farther down. I put a fuel filter on and put a screw in the old hole. It worked, and I never did get around to getting a new tank before I sold it.

KIRK S. DECKER
03-18-2003, 09:57 PM
taw

Try www.discounters.com/catalog/default.php.

It seems to work, at least it did a few days ago.

TAW
03-18-2003, 10:09 PM
Thanks Kirk that worked.

Has anybody tried the OFNA 063 pipe, it is a lot cheaper than the RB 063 one piece?

bravo_whiskey
03-19-2003, 11:04 AM
GMAN - It looks like a new tank will set you back about $13. That's what they sell for at my LHS.

Gmanlusk2004
03-19-2003, 09:41 PM
that's right.... 12.95 I just picked one up today. Finally gonna get to run it again.

This is why i love nitro... once you get past the first investment to get it built and runnin'... you don't have to put in much more money. I probably spend around 50 bux a year fixin' my nitro. And about 30 bux of that is my own fault that i could have prevented.

L8r,
Garrett

Gmanlusk2004
03-20-2003, 09:36 PM
i just bought a new inline pipe to replace my extremely loud stock pipe. It's the...

1/8 One Piece Set,
OffRoad
Part#: 10077


It cost more than the ofna 063 pipe, and i know that the 063 is the bottom end pipe, so i assume that the other pipe is made for more top end.

L8r,
Garrett

jrd21
03-21-2003, 12:40 AM
Sorry Dude Ofna technicians told me that the pipe you bought is being replaced by the 063 pipe and the new pipe was supposed to be alot better through the whole rpm. range, if I was you I would try and change that order.

Jason:cool:

Gmanlusk2004
03-21-2003, 05:53 PM
then why is it more expensive??? If the 063 is better then why is it cheaper? Well, anything will be better than that stock pipe. yuck.

L8r,
Garrett

Killer87
03-21-2003, 07:59 PM
if you want a good pipe get the Kyosho 512 or the OS T-2050

Killer87
03-21-2003, 08:17 PM
garret: in response to ur question on the thrc website: Yes, you can be competitive with the stock engine and pipe at the races on saturday. In my very first race ive ever been in, I drove my stock storm to qualify for 3rd in the A-main and then when I was doing the main the screw holding the clcuh bell came off because the factory didn't locktite it, and stripped the clutch bell while i was in 5th just getting warmed up. I was just down there today and if you have it tuned right you can keep up with higher end engines like ws7's and os v-01b's for the most part. The only difference is that it seemed that they had slightly better top end. I also run with a cvec and that helps me out on the bottom end.

fitj
03-21-2003, 11:14 PM
I've been running a storm for about a year now, and I have one little problem I could use some help with. In the standard setup, I have to reverse the throttle servo at the transmitter so that I get correct throttle response. When I tried putting a failsafe on the throttle, the default setting slams the servo into full throttle (not good for a failsafe) If I try changing the servo position, the position is saved until I turn off the battery. Turn it on again and get default of full throttle.

so, short of cracking a servo open and rewiring the insides, is there any way I can set up the linkages so that the servo doesn't need to be reversed?

carlton eppes
03-21-2003, 11:44 PM
Killer what track you running on, M&M? If so you definately don't need a lot of top end for that track so yes the stock motor should do good there. Oh BTW I just remembered I had that chassis plate in my tool box for you at K&M. Can you make the Victoria race in 3 weeks? If not give me your addy and I'll send it to you.
Fitj what brand failsafe?

fitj
03-22-2003, 12:00 AM
dynamite

carlton eppes
03-22-2003, 12:10 AM
Hmmm I've heard a number of people complain about problems with those. I don't run a failsafe just a return spring. I think if you switch the linkage around to operate like your describing your just asking for hung up linkage and run away problems.

Gmanlusk2004
03-22-2003, 12:20 AM
well i already ordered that pipe so i guess i'm sol. it is COD though.............. :D jk.

killer: you are supposed to loctite that screw. I think i remember someone telling me not to loctite it. I guess not though. That has happened twice to me. Once today! It sucked... i lost a bearing, the screw and the washer. Luckily i have the kyosho race box which is a 209 piece screw set, and an extra clutch bearing laying around. I fixed it, but it's a pain sometimes. I was on my first tank too! But i have been running it this whole week and nothing has happened. Knock on wood.

I'm gonna go loctite that screw right now so i don't forget.


I love how this thread is almost dominated by houston people. ;)

L8r,
Garrett

jrd21
03-22-2003, 03:22 AM
Gman that is just what the Ofna technician told me I do not know the reason for the price difference. I am sure you will be happy with the pipe you bought. Like you said anything is better than stock and definitely better on your ears.

Jason:cool:

Killer87
03-22-2003, 06:32 PM
carlton: Yeah, I was talking about M&M. I cant go to Victoria because I'm tied up here in Houston. Oh well. Anyway, my address is

Erik Elliott
431 kickerillo Dr.
Houston, TX 77079

Dang, if I hadn't of been so shy I couldve picked it up from you at the RC Pro Series. I guess someday Ill get some courage.:D
Just tell me what the shipping is and ill either send you the money or Ill paypal it to you. Thanks a lot.

Gman: I know. It is cool how all of the people here are Houstonians.:)

carlton eppes
04-03-2003, 01:43 PM
Erik your chassis went out tuesday regular USPS so keep an eye out for it.

Killer87
04-03-2003, 03:36 PM
It just arrived. Ill send you the $3 MO when we next go to the food store. I totaly forgot about it when we went last time. I have your adress so It'll probably be there about 2 days after I send it.

Thanks A Lot
Erik

Gmanlusk2004
04-03-2003, 09:05 PM
Hey, does anyone have extra dog bones that they replaced for universals. I lost my rear dogbone when my screw came loose in my rear turnbuckle. It sux, my own stupidity. :rolleyes:

L8r,
Garrett

Boostedbruiser
04-04-2003, 05:11 PM
Hey GMAN give me an Email at Bugsy350@hotmail.com
Shoot me your address and i'll send you a pair of dogbones, and out drives if you want. I got 2 storms both outfitted with CVA's all around. Don't have much need for the parts and if something breaks i'll have another set.

On a different note i was wondering if anyone out there could do me a favor. I live in korea stationed over here in the Army. I have a problem getting parts because most places only send things by way of UPS. well i can't recieve UPS and the amount of online dealers out there isn't that great.

I was just wondering if any who lived near a hobby store that sells GS parts could pick me up 2 gearboxes(bulkheads), 1 C-HUB set and Ship them to me. I can send money just about any way you want for the parts and shipping by USPS Priority. I know this is an unusual request but i have no more spares and well i'd hate to break one and be out of a buggy. If anyone is willing to do me this favor i would greatly aprreciate it.

In return for services i could send you a custom made bulk head brace thats very similar to the Firoini aluminum piece. I haven't broken a bulk head yet since running this brace on my car and i love to drive hard. the Material is not aluminum but aircraft grade fanalic.(composite) its very tough stuff and light. All the mounting holes will be the same and it will work with the stock and pro version rear chassis brace. Keep in mind that its not neccesarily the most beautiful peice but i do promise it will stregthen the heck out of the bulk head and shock tower mount. I will also include the hardware for it. (screws etc)

I will try this weekend to get pics of my current brace. So if you interested just drop me a note and i'll send you the pics.

If anyone can help and is interested in the brace please email me at BUGSY350@HOTMAIL.COM or my listed address.

Thanks Kevin

Fidelio
04-04-2003, 06:19 PM
Boostedbruiser my local shop does carry some parts and I would be willing to do this but, I know for a fact they don't stock the parts you want so I or they would have to order them.

However, I have possibly some very good information for you.

Stormer Hobbies carries virtually all parts and almost all of them are in stock. They also ship internationally AND they can/do ship USPS Priority mail overseas.

You can see a few details about their overseas shipping at this link.

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/site_faqs.html#Can%20I%20order%20from%20another%20 country?

I read through the information and I would say if you were to email them it sounds like they'd be more than happy to accomodate you.

You can also check their GS parts at this link.

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/searchpn.pl?stype=cust&pn=GS&man=General%20Silicones

Thank you very much for your service in protecting us and your country.

Boostedbruiser
04-04-2003, 10:47 PM
I wasn't aware that stormer had GS stuff. thats good news for me. I guess i just didn't look hard enough.
I appreciate the insite.

Oh and thanks for your support during these times. In the end though i only do my job and what i'm told. I hope to serve our country well.

Kevin

Fidelio
04-05-2003, 06:00 AM
I hope they're able to help you out as it would be the most direct route for everyone involved.

If not, let me know and I'll see what I can do.

TAW
04-06-2003, 10:09 PM
Before the forum went down I had posted about a place to get cheaper tires. A few of you had some good suggestions but I did not write them down and the post is now gone. If any of you know of places to get tires cheaper then the 35.00 bucks a pair I pay at my lhs plase post it.

Thanks

Gmanlusk2004
04-06-2003, 11:10 PM
my lhs has some medial pro tires mounted w/ foam inserts for like 20 a pair. They hook up too. Awesome tires and wheels, you can get just about every tire. They come in a few compounds, and are mounted on white or flourescent yellow split 5 spoke rims.

check em out at

www.rcdiscounters.com or
www.generalsilicones.com

L8r,
Garrett

Gmanlusk2004
04-06-2003, 11:11 PM
well to be more direct...

http://www.generalsilicones.com/medialpro.html

L8r,
Garrett

rcharry
04-06-2003, 11:27 PM
Hey all, i pick up a new stor, tommarow at my lhs, i got it for $350 w/o radio, which i have!, But i have to assembel it. :(. Its kinda cool cuz i like building stuff, but ive never built a nitro. Any tips. and any tips breaking the motor in. And hop ups recomendations for racing.
thanks

Fidelio
04-07-2003, 02:51 AM
be sure and use threadlock anywhere machine screws meet metal parts. if you have any desire to threadlock self tapping screws that go into plastic use a drop of CA glue instead of threadlock.

lube and grease EVERYWHERE they indicate in the instructions.

most importantly, take your time and try your best to be patient.

Killer87
04-07-2003, 01:07 PM
dont break it in the way they tel you. Theres a new way thats much better that most of the top driver are doing now. Dont idle it for break in.

This is a quote from Stephen Bess an writer for RCCA to another person:

"Ryan, I guessed correctly, you were idling at least a tank through as that's the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the
ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals,
tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC(bottom dead center), and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's
overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with your method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE
tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the
guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to
gain except longer life & more power :) "

Please note that he was talking to someone else so thats why he says OS and the other stuff. It will work with any engine though.

If you have any more questions just ask

Erik

Fidelio
04-07-2003, 04:35 PM
so on a 125cc tank with a .21 engine how many tanks does 20-25 total minutes turn out to be?

rcharry
04-08-2003, 08:46 PM
hey, thanks for the info,that was very helpful the, manule isnt very clear. So i picked it up, and the buggy is great, i only had to assembel the radio tray, gas tank and center diff, but its missing parts, so ill go to my lhs to pick up the parts for FREE!!!to install the engine.
This buggy looks awsome, i cant wait to open it up. What do you guys say it does in MPH, i want to keep up w. my friends 2 speed but i bet thats hard!
What % of fuel do you guys run, i picked up 20% cuz thats what the hobby man said!
Also i got onroad tires like a month ago and the rims get stuck on the spokes on the back, and wont spin. I tried cutting them down with x-acto knife, works a little better but im afriad if i go any more the rims will snap! So im going to buy news rims but I cant seem to get the tires off. any tips? i tried boiling them but doesnt work very well, but im not sure if i did it right!
One more ?, do they make aluminum center diff holders, the ones that hold the diff and screw into the chassie?
thanks for all the help

rcharry
04-08-2003, 10:15 PM
Oh, a few more ?'s.
Where can i find the dynamite hop ups?
And does anyone have a set up for the storm, on a small tight track. i will be racing on Tomtinorial Park, in Albuquerque NM, i dunno know if anyone knows but we had the Tumbleweed classic out there last Oct, or NOV. If any of the pros have set ups of the diff oil, shock oil and other stuff it would be nice.
And where can i find pritable set ups, ive tried the ones fron GSeroupe but they dont print out right?

thanks

Fidelio
04-09-2003, 12:19 AM
http://www.generalsilicones.com/fioroni/images/OT-GS05.jpg

GS Storm 2 Piece Center Diff Mount w/Upper Brake Plate Sugg. Retail $128.99

made by Fioroni

http://www.generalsilicones.com/gsoptparts.html

http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/shared/productimages/250/DYN7808-250.jpg

DYNAMITE Center Diff Mount (4pc)-7075: Storm Price: $49.49

http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=DYN7808

http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/shared/productimages/250/GSCSTP27-250.jpg

GS Racing Center Diff Mount Set, 7075: Storm Price: $52.19

http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=GSCSTP27

Killer87
04-09-2003, 03:30 PM
ypu can get dynamite stuff at www.horizonhobby.com

rcharry
04-09-2003, 10:17 PM
thoes GS hop ups look yummy, i may have to buy some soon.
So no other answers to my other questions?
But i have yet antoher question, i used to race onroad electric, and i knew what the camber and toe did. I really forgot what they do, like making it negative or positve.
thanks guys

dgrobe2112
04-11-2003, 02:35 PM
Question???????

My friend has a Ofna Dominator and came across a GS .21 motor.. now.. it hasnt been run since the motor was pinched.. can someone tell me what a good starting point for the needle vlaves on this motor are?? He is gonna break it in.. So where should he start with the breakin?? Like OS motors say start with the motor turned out 3 turns off bottom out on there OS .12.. and start breaking and turn in 1/12 of a turn after each tank for 6 tanks..

So what is a good start for a .21 motor??

Thanks alot for any help..

Fidelio
04-11-2003, 03:10 PM
rcharry for diff oil i've heard many people use 30K up front, 50K in the center and 10K in the rear.

i'm still waiting for my lhs to get my storm in any day now so i couldn't tell ya from personal experience but i've read that combo in several places.

Killer87
04-11-2003, 05:07 PM
30k, 50k, 10k?!?!?!? Are you crazy. That is waaaay to thick. Or did you mean 3000, 5000, 1000? Anyway, I have spoken to many top drivers about this (Mike Battaile and some others at RC Pro Seris) and they said a good combo is 3k, 7k, 1k which is thicker in the center than what fiedlio said. Some people even run 3k, 7k, grease so the rear is very thin.

dgrobe: About 3 turns out high end and flush on the low end. Also read my post about break in a few posts back. Thats the best way to do it and i wish i had done it that way. Unfortunately i didnt know about it at the time.

Fidelio
04-11-2003, 08:05 PM
er yeah, i added an extra zero, lol. my bad.

rcharry
04-12-2003, 07:21 PM
so what about the camber and toe? What does each do if i adjust it?

nad138
04-12-2003, 10:32 PM
hey dudes, I'd really like some help in getting a 55T spur gear. Do anybody know where I could score this ? Appreciate the help.

- nad

bravo_whiskey
04-14-2003, 04:00 PM
Perhaps it is just the time of year, all car owners are buying parts for their cars to get them up and running, but I've noticed that most hobbyshops and online retailers have very few parts for the Storm in-stock. Is there a shortage of GS parts everywhere? Is there going to continue to be limited availability? I'm not jumping ship just yet, but I'm getting a little worried. Anyone know anything about this?

rcharry
04-14-2003, 11:38 PM
yeah i noticed it at horizon hobby, im not sure about my hobby shop though. Ill check tommarow. going to get servos, reciver pack, new rims, stickes, racing air filter and other stuff!
Ya, i should be running by Wed!!

rcharry
04-14-2003, 11:51 PM
And do any of you know if the paint of the shell comes off easy?

Fidelio
04-15-2003, 04:57 AM
Stormer Hobbies has tons of parts in stock for the Storm.

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/searchpn.pl?stype=cust&pn=GS&man=General%20Silicones

rcharry
04-15-2003, 05:19 PM
so no, answers to any of my questions. Nobody has really been helpful!
QUESTIONS!!!
1. What does the changing of the camber and toe do?
2. Do the paint off the rtr shell come of easy?

Killer87
04-15-2003, 06:12 PM
Woah, cool down.

1. I have no idea what camber is or does but I know that toe in on the front means more steering power in turns and toe out in front means higher speed on straights and vice versa.

2. The paint will not come off the rtr body very well. I tried in one tiny place with laquer thinner and it got all fuzzy, then I tried with laquer thinner and RainX and it came off clear but it took forever, I mean FOREVER.