GS Racing Storm and Storm Pro

[Killer87]

Carlton: Did you get the check? I sent it out on Monday, so it should be there tomorrow or the day after.

[Fidelio]

w00t, i'm the newest owner of a brand new GS Storm RTR. Picked it up today. I'm so excited, but am gonna take my time making sure everything is tight, locked, and lubed before I go on to break in.

whoopee!

anyone tried and have tales to tell of the break in that Killer87 wrote about?

I'd be willing to try it but don't want to fark up my engine as I won't have money to replace it for quite some time.

[sinfony78]

what can u tell me about the RTR?

how fast can it go, what kinda engine does it have, etc...
this is probably going to be my first buggy (or the hyper 7), so any tips will help

or should i go with the hyper 7?

[bravo_whiskey]

Sinfony,
I can't tell you the top speed of the Storm in R2R battle dress. I've never clocked mine. I know it's fast!! It will keep up with any other 1/8th scale R2R currently available. I have been more than happy with my decision to go with the Storm. It has a GS .21 motor. I heard somewhere that it is made by megatech. Not sure if that's true. It's no competition level mill, but it's a good, reliable, "sport" motor. Mine has given me no trouble and has proven easy to tune. In my opinion, the Storm R2R comes with the best radio compared to the other R2R's. There's just no comparison between a high-quality JR Fm 3 ch. unit and an economy Am 2 ch. My Storm came with the XR3i radio, a Z590M steering servo, and a Z550 throttle. I'm not sure how I got the Z550 for throttle. Most everyone I've talked to with a Storm got a Z270. There are a lot of upgrades available, when the wallet permits. As far as advice, I'm sure there are plenty more experienced racers in here that could tell you anything you could possibly want to know. The only thing I know for sure is go over every nut and bolt on the car and loctite all metal-to-metal connections. That step alone has saved me hours of aggrivation. It also gives you an opportunity to get acquainted with the "inner-workings" of your new car. I hope this helps. Happy shopping!!!

[sinfony78]

yeah, i'm leaning toward the storm just because of the radio...all the other ones look really cheap. thanks for your input...

but do u know the cheapest place to buy a storm online? my LHS sells for $560, and i know there's a lot cheaper places out there somewhere

[Fidelio]

Superior Hobbies sells the Storm RTR for $499

http://www.superiorhobbies.com/nitro-rc/nitro-rc.html

and Harco Hobbies sells it for $549 but includes $40 worth of extras like glow plug igniter, extra glow plugs, fuel bottle, plug wrench and extra fuel tubing.

http://www.harcohobbies.com/nitro/nitro_offroad_rtr.aspx

Those are the best 'deals' I found.

I bought mine from my LHS though and they're giving me free practice days on their track which would have cost $5 a day otherwise so it all worked out in the end.

[bravo_whiskey]

I got mine from a place in TN. called Speedzone Raceway. He is a hobby shop that only deals in Radio control. He's got the best prices I've ever found anywhere. He sold me mine for $440 shipped. Give him a call. 866-590-0763. His name is Mike.

[rcharry]

Thanks Killer youve been the only real help here.
but whatever happened to that pro racer? I could sure use him right now!

[Fidelio]

Damn bravo_whiskey I wish I'd known that last week, lol.

Oh well, I'm broke for a while anyway.

[Killer87]

Fedelio: go to www.rc-racing.com then go to the starting grid, then offroad conference then go to item #20: NovaRossi Motors.. RB, Mugen, Top, Rex, Crono... and go back about 50 replies, they talk about the break in method there. This new method is recommended by everyone who races competitively, they say it gives you more bottom end punch and top.

rcharry: you mean Carlton or Gman? I dont know where either are

[Fidelio]

i went there and skimmed through post's 1600-1758 and didn't see it.

any way you could get the post #?

thank you Killer.

i've already started breaking it in, i followed the instructions you posted and have gotten through the 2-3 minute period but i started late yesterday and it rained today so maybe I can get back at it tomorrow.

[carlton eppes]

Killer yep I got the check. Thanks

Rcharry I'm no pro but let me see if I can help you.
1 camber- generally negative camber is used on all 4 tires. Which means the top of the tire leans in. The main reasoning behind this is to offset the camber change that occurs when the suspension is compressed. The tire can actually lean out on some suspensions when compressed. Also it will help cut down some side bite and possibly traction rolling in the corners because the outside edge of the tire grabs a rut. The normal measurement is 1-1 1/2 degrees.

2 Toe in/out- Toe in front tires (front of tires turned in compared to the back of the tires) is rarely used in offroad it will make the car twitchy. Toe out front of tires out farther than the back of the tires. This will stabalize the car some and help your steering into a corner. It also causes drag on the straights only use 1- 1 1/2 degrees toe out. If you can drive it with 0 toe that's better but try a little toe out.
Toe in on the back tires. Less toe in in the back will make the car twitchy but less drag. More toe in will make the car more stable. Never use toe out in the rear. You can also change this to help with rear traction problems experiment and see what feels best for YOU.

On the Storm set it up with the stock book settings and then only change one thing at a time to see if it helps. If you change a lot of things it may help but you won't know exactly what it was that did it. If you get to far gone go back to the stock setup. Take notes on what helped and what didn't. Also get the Kyosho blue springs and put them on, these work for most all the tracks you will see.

[Fidelio]

what about caster and how is it different than camber and/or toe in?

[carlton eppes]

Caster is the angle the wheel is layed back from straight up. Meaning if you look at the front spindle with the wheel off you will see the top of thesteering knuckle is located further toward the back of the car than the lower part of the steering knuckle. This is positive caster more positive will give better off power turn in or better on power turn in (I can never remember which). The C hubs on the Storm control the caster and I don't know of any optional ones that change it. The Fioroni ones MIGHT but I'm not sure. The Kyosho guys are using 20 and 22 degree ones on the 7.5 but I don't think they will fit the Storm.

While I'm at it.
The lower a-arm mounts on the storm can be swapped around to give less front kick up which I have not tried yet but this will probably change the caster angle now that I think about it. In the rear they can be swapped around to add or subtract anti-squat. Less anti-squat will make the car handle a rough track better and can give better rear traction. More anti-squat will keep the car from transfering so much weight to the rear. Look at the arm from the side as it's mounted on the car, if the front of the arm is higher than the rear that is ant-squat.

[Fidelio]

so the reason we don't hear much about tuning caster in rc compared to the other two is because it's determined by the chassis kickup, chubs, and a-arms together which are difficult to tune without changing the part and is not as critical (critical yes, but not critical to change what comes from the factory) as are camber and toe right?

er, hope that made sense.

[carlton eppes]

UMMMMMMMM yea! LOL

Most people have just delt with what they had. Seems there's a trend toward optional hubs now so this may be more common in the future. Electrics have offered these for years but I've only really seen this in the 1/8 buggies in the last year.

[Fidelio]

also my manual has nothing about the stock needle settings.

my HSN was set at about 3 1/3 open from the factory but there's no mention in the documentation about 'baseline' settings.

what do you guys have or run for baseline settings on the GS 21B-01P?

[carlton eppes]

I haven't run that motor in almost 2 years but I think it was 3 out on the top end and one turn in from flush on the lowend. That should get you started and adjust from there.

[Killer87]

Fedelio: check response #1713 and then about 20 more after. Also check #1761 for another way to break-in but the 2nd way is much too complicated for me. Just sign up for an account on the starting grid and ask about it and see what you get.

I'd go with what carlton said about ur HSN except maybe a little richer, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 turn. On the breakin you dont want to be lean.

[Fidelio]

Thanks Killer87 it's definitely interesting reading over there. They all seem to have a ton of experience.

I've finished the break in according to what you had posted earlier, let's hope my engine lasts. I can tell you though it's running like a beast now, but then again, it's my first .21 so I guess any big block would seem like a beast to me.

Now on to Air Filters, what are you guys suggestions over the stock filter and why?

I think the single element filter just ain't gonna cut it. Anyone have suggestions on a 2 stage with relatively cheap replacement elements?

The area I run in is pretty dusty so I'm pretty nutty about clean air filters.

[carlton eppes]

Thunder Tiger makes a nice dual filter setup that works good you can also use the elements on the GS filter cage. Go to a motorcycle shop and get some filter oil for it oil both filters by putting them in a ziplock bag and working the oil into them. Squeeze out the excess oil and your ready.

[Fidelio]

wow, there's so much great content over there I'm going to be reading for months!

i'd actually been over there prolly 5-6 months ago but somehow missed the 'conferences' link. boy did i miss a biggie!

thanks guys, it'll sure help expand my knowledge.

[rcharry]

Sorry for the late replies, busy breaking in my motor. Ya i spent all day at my lhs yesterday. Apperently a sponsed raced by GS, losi, fantom, JR and a bunch of other people was there to help me. Hes cool and he had the new Fantom 21 engine, OMG, its amazing, we breaking it in and they were still tuning it when i left. Apprently they counldnt get some bottom end out of it so well see today when we race tonight. But thats my next motor and its susposed to be cheap, only $200!!!!!!!! Huge heatsink too!
I use the motor saver air filter!
Thanks eppes for all the help i need that, im just going to run the stock set up tonight, they adjust from there. Its going to be hard and i know im going to get laped! Im racing the pro racer and the my hobby shop man! Any tips for toninght!

[Fidelio]

relax and drive your race, not theirs. if you race their race and push too hard you'll just end up on the boards or worse, breaking things.

relax and concentrate on your race, but above all have fun. :)

[carlton eppes]

Learn throttle control! There's more positions on that trigger than full throttle and brake. Just try to make laps without crashing then gradually try to do it faster. Watch the more experienced racers and learn the fast line then try to copy it.

That's the best way to start out just work on car control and don't try to keep up with the more experienced guys speed will come with control.

BTW guys I'm one of the directors of the RC Pro Series and we're working up our 1st newsletter and each of us will do a column. I need some help on my columns. Since I consider myself more of an Intermediate racer I'm going to try to address problems and questions from the Intermediate racers. So if you will please email me what you would like to see in my column. Also visit our website for info on the RC Pro Series. I think our first newsletter will come out next week since this is the first one we're trying to get organized on it.

carlton@rcproseries.com
http://www.rcproseries.com

[Killer87]

Fedelio: keep us posted on how long it lasts but im sure ti lasts long. As for airfilters, mine broke so i got the OS one. it seems to be good.

rcharry: good luck at ur race!

carlton: thats cool that ur a writer, unfortunately im not an intermedeate driver so i cant help u.

[carlton eppes]

Killer
Intermediate in my view covers everything but expert! ;)

[Fidelio]

well I took my car out for its first dirt eating session today and what a blast. I can't wait to get this thing on the track.

today was just bashing at a spot my buddy and i found.

it was nice to be able to beat his Tmaxx 2.5 with 2 speed with my single speed buggy. :D

for you guys that's probably not suprising but sure is fun for me as i think he was getting used to being able to smoke me.

i'll be sure and let you guys know how long the engine keeps its pinch but that of course relies on my tuning abilities (not bad) and rigorous air filter maintenance (at minimum after every session). i'm also already in the habit of using ARO every run as well.

i'm gonna stick a fuel filter between pipe and tank and another between tank and carb as well as get a better air filter.

i'm also gonna keep this engine below 250* at all times and aim for 230* as normal temp. anything else you guys can think of to help me make this engine last?

if I do those things what would you expect the life before rebuild 'should' be? 4 gallons? 6 gallons? or more?

[Killer87]

fedelio: yea, never get dirt in it.:) Also, why do you need a filter on the pressure line?

carlton: okay, well then how about one on break in, or maybe ask abel for some of his setups

[Fidelio]

Killer87 you probably wouldn't need one running on a track all the time but while I was out bashing today my car was pretty much in a cloud of dust the entire time, either mine or my buddies.

I would just hate to have dirt get into the pipe and be fed back into my tank is all. There's enough dirt that surrounds the rim of the tank when I refuel that I'm just trying to eliminate all sources of dirt getting into the engine.

You think it's way overkill to have one on the pressure line?

[carlton eppes]

Killer
I'm trying to get Frosty to do some setup stuff. I'm not sure what Abel is gonna write about.

Fidelio
Yep a little overkill there If you that worried put two filters in the line from the tank to the carb. It has to go throught that line or the airfilter to get in the motor.

[Fidelio]

i know i'm full of questions but what plugs should i use in the GS 21B?

btw thanks for all your help guys. :)

[carlton eppes]

MC9

[integra d12]

any word on when the new parts are coming from gs to the states? I.e. the bulkhead/diff braces? and the new kit.

One more thing here is a sick storm (friends) and a body I painted.

http://www.proctorproductions.com/dc/madst.jpg

http://www.proctorproductions.com/dc/madst3.jpg
http://www.proctorproductions.com/dc/chassis.jpg

[Fidelio]

carlton that's the McCoy cold plug right?

integra, very nice job man.

[carlton eppes]

Yes it is. Now if it's pretty cold outside you can use the MC59 but the MC9 works for most conditions.

[Fidelio]

even for 20% nitro?

[carlton eppes]

It should work fine.

[Fidelio]

you've been a great help, thank you. :)

[rcharry]

Hey guys last nights race was great, and so much fun. i cant wait for the point series to start! Ok, im giving details by the race.

1st heat: I started off ok, considering i didnt practice any on the newly redesigned track. But i used the stock tires and they went bald after like 3 laps, then my front body clip came off so my shell was up in the air, and on jumps i really would fly, literally. I had no traction what so ever but i think i came in 5th of 6.I only bent a shock tower.

Inbetween: the pro racer i was talking about gave me tires, and later i actully stuck to the track, so i bought him dinner.

2nd heat: Started late, cuz my gear mesh slipped and the lady running started without me, only 2 laps though. Then my car died and my pit man restarted it then battery plug fell out of the reciver and car died. But that was only with 30 seconds left. But with the new tires i ran faster laps and cam in 4th of 6.

Inbetween: Replaced glow plug with MC8 or 9 cant remember. Checked gear meshput foam in battery box, checked every screw and ate food, and leaned my engine out.

A MAIL!: started off good, and was flying, but this one double i kept over jumping by at least 5 feet and nose diving, i did that 3 times then learned my lesson and went slower, then drove great for like 5 laps, and raced the pro for a lap and i kept up with his WS7 and great driving then on that same double i jumped cricked and nailed the metal pipe and broke my front suspension arm:( still came in 4th of 6, other guys broke before i did.

Overall i was very pleased the way this car performed, is fast if can keep up with a ws7 on the back straight.

MODIFICATIONS! I plan filling the diffs now, the middle one was filled but the others werent, getting new tires and new x-tals, and adjusting the shocks!

QUESTIONS: on the tires the pro gave me the back seemed to lose more tread, so the car is pushing a lot, what could i do to slove that! And what shock oil should i use and what springs!

thanks

[Gmanlusk2004]

hey, i think it's time for a new chassis for me. Does anyone know which one i should buy? Does Dynamite make a chassis? If they do is it good? What about the pro chassis, or Fioroni. Which one would be the best bang for the buck? Also, what about shock towers? What is the best bang for the buck.... fioroni, dynamite, GS, or hardcore?

Hey, all you Houstonians, check out this pretty much all Texas site. It has a great forum... www.rcfiles.com

L8r,
Garrett

[rcharry]

Hey if any of you pro or sponsered racer have any extra stiffer shock spring other than the stock ones laying around could you give them to me please, at $15 a pair i cant afford them, im a poor high school student!

[carlton eppes]

Rcharry
Good luck on that one. I think just about everyone is running the Kyosho or OFNA blue springs. I've been running the GS option springs which are progressive. They seem to work well but I need to get some of the blue Kyosho's to compare.
Also if your burning tread off the rear tires then it's not pushing it's loose. Try a softer spring in the rear or maybe less anti-squat. Either will transfer weight to the rear better under acceleration.

Killer
Richard Saxton and Frosty have agreed to help me with any questions I get for the column when I need a pro's view. I'll talk to Stephen and see if I can get a copy of his breakin method to run in my column.

Gman
Get the pro or Fioroni chassis those are the only ones I have any experience with and they work great.

[Gmanlusk2004]

carlton, i went up to mnm today at around 1:15 and i watched the 1/8 scale expert race along w/ the 1/10 nitro truck novice class. It was really cool watching them. I was surprised because it looked like it wasn't that difficult.

L8r,
Garrett

[Fidelio]

heh, wouldn't that be why they're experts? cause they make it look easy. ;)

[rcharry]

Gman, at least they seperate the the 1/8 at my track they throw us all in one class, and the pro guy always wins. Oh i got the 4mm shock tower, see how it runs on race night!

[Gmanlusk2004]

fidelio, i'm even talkin about the novice class trucks. It didn't look like they were going very fast at all. I mean, they were goin so slow they couldn't make a mistake. lol. But really, the way i drive at my "track" at home it seems like i could smoke em. :D

L8r,
Garrett

[rcharry]

i dunno, its a whole different ball game when you get to the track!

[jdavid2002]

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone could help me? I have a GS .21 motor. I think the connecting rod may be damaged. Do you guys know who makes the GS motors, or who carry rebuild parts for the GS motors? I have been to TowerHobbies and they don't carry any GS connecting rods, unless they are made by someone else. Thanks for the help.

John

[carlton eppes]

Jdavid
Horizon shows the parts number for the rod but also shows to be out of stock. I suggest if you replace the rod replace the piston pin and retainers as a safety precaution.

Here are the part#'s
rod - [GSC9921316
pin - GSC9921315
retainers - GSC9921314


Uh your in Texas aren't you? I have the old RTR motor that was on my original car. It had maybe 2 gallons thru it when I started looking for more power. It doesn't stick at the top of the stroke but turning it over by hand it still has good compression. If you interested I'll take $30 shipped for it. email me if your interested. cdeppes@awesomenet.net

[Fidelio]

Stormer Hobbies also carries all the engine parts and say they have the connecting rod in stock.

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/searchpn.pl?stype=cust&pn=GS&man=General%20Silicones

[jdavid2002]

Thanks for the info guys...Carlton YGM

[bravo_whiskey]

Good news for us Storm owners that have been waiting for new gear choices. I was just on Horizonhobby.com and saw 44, 46, and 48 tooth Steel Main gears will be available. Horizon doesn't have them in stock yet, though. I also noticed front and rear aluminum hinge pin braces will be available too. Part #'s are GSCSTP37 through GSCSTP41. I'm probably the only one who didn't know these were coming.......

[bravo_whiskey]

I bent up two shock shafts this weekend on my R2R storm. I want to buy the upgrade shafts, but I don't know which sizes I need. They come in short, med and long. Anyone know which ones to use front/rear?

[rcharry]

what will changing the cluthbell up or down do?
and what would changing the spur gear do?

[bravo_whiskey]

RCHARRY,
Larger clutchbells will increase top-end speed while sacrificing some low-end. Smaller clutchbells will increase low-end take-off while sacrificing some top-end speed. The exact opposite happens when you change the spur gear. Larger improves bottom-end ---- Smaller improves top-end. The spur/bell combination is your primary ratio which is simply the spur # of teeth divided by the bell # of teeth. A stock Storm setup is 13 tooth bell and 46 tooth spur. 46/13=3.53 primary ratio.
A larger primary ratio is faster out of the hole. A smaller ratio has more top speed. Hope this answers your question.

--Bravo

[Gmanlusk2004]

I don't think it could have been answered more thoroughly. :D

L8r,
Garrett

[rcharry]

Thanks bravo, thats just what i was looking for! which one should i change, the spur or clutch or doest it madder. Im looking for more bottom end.
Ok another question, what is everyone running as the shock set up, like the position of the bottom holes. Right now i got the front on the far out, and the back in the middle hole. What will happen if i change the front to the middle hole, how will the car feel, and perform jumping wise?
thanks for all the help!

[packfan88]

man there arent many reatailers for the gs storms yet eh?

sinc ei got mine used, a buddy who has an ofna wants to now buy one but i havent had much luck finding them online.

before i spend too much time looking for one nib, can someone point me in the direction of the best price for the gs storm rtr?

[Gmanlusk2004]

well change the clutchbell. It cost's way less than the main gear. As for shock mounting and everything. I usually run on rough surfaces so my shocks are as front: outer hole on top, middle hole on bottom/ rear: outer holes on top, and inner-most holes on bottom. I have stiff springs in front with 35wt oil, and stock springs in rear w/ biggest pre-load spacer and 35wt as well. No swaybar up front, and i do have the swaybar on the rear.

L8r,
Garrett

[Gmanlusk2004]

as for packfan, check out
www.stormerhobbies.com
www.superiorhobbies.com

superior hobbies has the storm rtr for 499.99

I can usually find them nib on eBay for 449.99 as a "buy it now" price.

L8r,
Garrett

[Fidelio]

packfan88 General Silicones is distributed exclusively by Horizon Hobbies in the U.S.

It seems their goal is to put their products into hobby shops instead of into online retailers.

You can always find the storm at www.horizonhobby.com but it will be the same price or more than what you find in your local shop.

Check your LHS, it's quite possible they have one in stock. In my area both my closest hobby shops sell the storm almost exclusively for 1/8 scale buggies.

[packfan88]

Originally posted by Fidelio
packfan88 General Silicones is distributed exclusively by Horizon Hobbies in the U.S.

It seems their goal is to put their products into hobby shops instead of into online retailers.

You can always find the storm at www.horizonhobby.com but it will be the same price or more than what you find in your local shop.

Check your LHS, it's quite possible they have one in stock. In my area both my closest hobby shops sell the storm almost exclusively for 1/8 scale buggies.

yeah but most stores have an online shop too so if there goal is to get the product out to lhs, they would end up on the web anyhow.
i checked my lhs and they arent that big of a place so the y dont have em.

thanks for the links ill check em out.

any good suggestions for threaded shocks for MY GS storm?
no resevoir shocks cause anything ive read says they arent worth the $100+ for them and to just get threaded regulars.

[fitj]

anybody know where I can get front arms? my lhs has been out since last summer and so has horizon. does anyone else make a set? can I use arms from another buggy? thanks

[Killer87]

fitj:

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/searchpn.pl?stype=cust&pn=GS&man=General%20Silicones

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Stormer is also out of stock...i also need the front lower arm....this sucks not being able to find a $5.00 part.

This seems to be one week part on the storm. In the past year I have gone through 3 of them with "normal" bashing.

[carlton eppes]

Call Ben at Ben's RC in Rockport he should have you covered on the arms. (361) 720-0420

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Thank you Mr. Eppes!

[rcharry]

Yeah, my lhs backorder for parts and i missed a race. they better come in soon!
Packfan, why you want another one, you have a pro!
thanks gman. i run one a small smooth track, what should i use.

[packfan88]

i dont want another one but my friend who has an 2 ofna (hyper 7 and a mbx i think) wants to get one.
he makes too much money for his own good. he is getting married soon and said if he dont buy them now he will never be able to get them.

[carlton eppes]

Mr. Eppes?! Hey watch that kinda language now! ;)

[rcharry]

cool pack

[Apis]

I was wondering if anyone else was having his problem.

I have a storm rtr and I just bought a pro fuel tank with the splash resevoir but the problem is, with both of them, the fuel doesnt stay in the tank. The top latch doesnt hold the fuel and it gets everywhere. My brother has a hot bodies lightening and it has a great cap on the tank, no spillage, also comes with built in splash resevoir and clips to hold the hoses.

Anyway, anyone else have this problem or know how to fix it. It has happened on both tanks. The spring seems to be just as strong as his but the cap doesnt lock down over the hole.

[Apis]

how come we cant start new threads? Most other messages boards allow you to start threads that everyone can then reply, according to the subject. It seems that would be the easier way to organize the conversations. Instead of searching through years of post on this thread to see if anyone talked about fuel tanks or swing arms or custom paint jobs.


Just wondering...

[lil_general_lee]

I was more then impressed with the way the Storm ran. I bought an RTR and liked it so much that I decided to buy all the option parts to upgrade it to a pro. I decided to enter a race with it, "sportsman" since I was doubtful it would be able to hang with buggies with high end engines. To my suprise I ended up leading the A-main for the more then half the time, Till I had a flame out. Was about a half lap ahead of everyone when the pit guy said to take it easy to reduce the risk for broken parts etc... Well, I let off a bit and as soon as I lobbed over the tripple my flywheel bottomed out. Is this a freak thing or common ? Lets just say by the end of the day I decided to keep the stock engine and put a Crazt Nut Head on it rather then buy a high end engine ;)

[Killer87]

Are you using the PRO or the RTR engine mounts? Because the flywheel on the GS motor is larger i think so you have to use the RTR mounts.

[lil_general_lee]

I'm using the RTR mounts with the stock flywheel. Maybe I should try to find a slightly smaller flywheel? I also noticed the flywheel cut out on the GS is rather large. Let me know.

RJ

[rcharry]

Hey guy, i got my parts and bought some upgrades to. THERE EXPENSIVE! But i was running it the other day and melted my antenna tube so i had to cut if off, and i accidently cut a few antenna wires and now, i cant run for crap. it even ran away when it was 20 feet away, no damage just the little suspen arm mount. Ive broke and lost 2 screws cuz of that. I think i put it on right but am not sure. anyway i couldnt race again:( it sucks!Can i just buy a new antenna or do i need a whole new reciever?
Ive had no prob with w/ the fuel tanks or having the flywheel bottom out.

[nad138]

[out-of-topic]

Hey guys, I know most of the people here are from Houston so I just wanna let you know that we're (well mostly texans) are featured in the current R/C Car Magazine up in New Caney.

- nad

[carlton eppes]

That was the RC Pro race wasn't it? What month is it? Would you look thru the article and see if Skinny actually used the pics of my car he took? It's a black storm with yellow lightening on it.

thanks
Carlton

[nad138]

Yes, it's the R/C Pro race.

That ride was yours ? SWEEEETTTTT ! Yep it's there + the group pic (though small) and many others including the home brewed Rocket Science fuel used by Frosty, Nick and others.

It's the July issue w/ the Bergonzoni buggy on the cover.

[carlton eppes]

Cool! To bad I broke the nose off that body about a month later! Oh well time for some more paint work.

Rcharry

I tried to answer you last night but they shut down the site for whatever......
On the antenna wire it can be replaced. If you are decent with a soldering iron you can do it if not find a friend that is. You can get a replacement wire at the LHS or Radio Shack. Just take the case apart and unsolder the original wire from the board ( doesn't take much heat and use a small tip) then tin the new wire and resolder it to the board. You shouldn't need any extra solder on the board just heat whats there quickly and it should flow fine. Besure to check the length of the old wire and make the new one tha same. If you have some wire missing from the old one have the LHS find out the length from the manufacturer. Just in case the Hitec FM 75mhz is 22" long not sure about the rest tho.

[rcharry]

Thanks eppes. You know how much they go for.
Well since i was out of comishion i decided to take my car apart. All my trunbuckles were all messed up, i got my steering back on track. so now maybe that sound went away, which i think was coming from the diffs. well see soon

[carlton eppes]

I think the replacement wire from Hitec is about $2.00 and it may be cheaper than that from Radio Shack just take a piece of it with you so they can get the right gauge.

[Killer87]

Yea. If you have a broken antenna wire, just ask Carlton. He knows all about fixing antennas in the middle of races.:)

[rcharry]

now you have to tell us the story

[carlton eppes]

O great you had to bring THAT up! LOL

Let's just say I started a qualifier at the K&M RC Pro race with and antenna and tube................... I finished it with maybe an inch of antenna hanging out of the receiver. The tube went ...... who knows the wire decided to checkout the veiw of the race from inside my right rear wheel. DOH! Still not sure how I had enough control of the car to finish. So I had to find a soldering iron and solder and wire , since I didn't bring any of that ........ hey it was a nitro race what would I need all that for! Well Killer there as I found out later stood and watched me take the receiver apart and replace the wire before the next race. Now the bad part.......... when I came off the track I had no idea what was wrong with the car and didn't notice the antenna tube missing. Well I tossed the car on the bench and went to the booth to call the next couple of races. When I came back to the pits my wife told me what the problem was. I will hear about that one for awhile! :(

[packfan88]

im parting out a New In The Box gs storm rtr.

parts are hard to find so i figured id get a second kit take what i want and sell the rest and hopefully make my $ back.

if you want somethign let me know, cause tis first come first serve.

email me at packfan88@yahoo.com with what you want out of it.

paypal/money order only.

[rcharry]

Nice one epps, that what i did but mine melted. that is weird how you still finished!
Pack are you expensive???

[us_matrix]

Hi guys,

Car can't move freely after run. I removed the engine and found out that the clutch bell bearings (2 of them are broken) so i am going to get the 5x10mm bearings for replacement. I was wondering has anyone of you guys modify the engine from pull start to non pull start, if you done before, can you tell me how to do it in detail? Also, Do you guys take the engine aparts for clean up from time to time? What do you use to clean? Do you guys do that? If i do that, Anything i need to be aware of like sealing or anything need to be replaced if i do that.

Thanks.

[rcharry]

I havent modilfied it to a non pull start. But cleaning i just clean the clutch, but later il probably take it apart and rebuild it after a put a gallon through.

[packfan88]

harry where did you get the back plate for the GS .21?

[rcharry]

I didnt! lol. i said that above! LOL

[Killer87]

packfan: did u get my email?

[LosiRacer911]

i need to know how to fix the rear bulkhead breaking problem. i have broke 3 bulkheads in 5 races. please help me! also...packman88 you have mail!

[hkgasmd]

hey guys I'm looking about buying a gs storm pro. Other kits I'm considering are the ofna 7 pro and 9.5 pro kits. Can anyone help me decide which kit to go? Also, where can you buy the storm pro kit the cheapest?

[Killer87]

Losiracer: When I broke my 1st one, I bought a new one as backup and then I took the old one and reinforced the whole thing with carbon fiber and CA. Its stronger now and I haven't broken it yet.

[Killer87]

hkgasmd: Storm al the way. You can find one on ebay pretty cheaply.

[carlton eppes]

LosiRacer

Which bulkhead do you have? The old style that didn't have the lower screws or the new style that does? The old style was the one that had the breakage problem. There is 2 ways to fix that, either buy the Fioroni bulkhead brace or get the new style bulkhead and shock tower. If you need one I have a new brace that I bought and never used.

[LosiRacer911]

i have the new style with the lower screws. i broke it at my local r/c track off of the 6 foot big bertha jump they have. i have no more money right now because i just bought 2 more bulkheads and bearings. would you be willing to trade for anything?

[LosiRacer911]

well i'll take that back...what are you asking for it? please email me with a price at paintballer6812@aol.com. i would highly appreciate it. thanks.

[jibby]

I have a brand new GS Storm Pro buggy that I am selling. I had it built by my hobby shop, but it has never been ran. This kit has it all!!! I am also including a set of tires and an extra set of wheels. There are pics posted on ebay, the item number is 3132407340

please email me if you have any questions.

THank you

[rcharry]

Do you guys mean the gearbox, or are they the same thing. I havent broke the rear but ive bronken the front gearbox. Well i ran my storm beside the anttena problem. im not letting it go more than like 20 feet away. Do your storms need like a half to full tank to warm up, before it starts kickin. Or is it because i havent run mine in a while>

[carlton eppes]

Harry yea rear bulkhead = gearbox. You broke the front one? What did you hit?

[rcharry]

i think i hit the metal pipe line at the track and that bent the front schock tower than i did it again. i just broke the things that poke out at the top.

[carlton eppes]

I figured you had to hit something to bend the shocktower back for that case to break. The back tower being taller puts more leverage on theose ears normally.

[rcharry]

Yeah it was my first time out, and i didnt practice, so i went in the 1st round knowing nothing and everytime i hit this double i would over jump it, then cartwheel into the next lane.Are you sponserd by GS

[carlton eppes]

Bahahahahahaha sponsored? Not even close! My sponsor is our bank account!

[rcharry]

oh, i thought you were the pro of the forum. I guess not. theres a guy here in my towm that is sponsed by GS, once i get better and can take him. Im going to ask him to hook me up. He can and hes cool. He gives me free stuff and free info!

[carlton eppes]

I've been running the Storm since it first came out so I've learned a lot about it but I have never asked for any kind of sponsorship. This year I haven't had much time to club race I'm mainly running the big races here in Texas.

[rcharry]

im up in New Mexico, ABQ to be specific. You should come up to the Tumbleweed Classic. I think its the biggest race in NM. So far theres only 2 people racing a storm, me and the pro. hehe, its funny. The worst and the best. My lhs guy went to the pro-line MAXX challange, and in 2nd or 3rd in the B-main. The only people who beat him were the factory sponsered drivers. I bet hes going to get a call soon!

[carlton eppes]

I'm supposed to be going to Delta RC in Antioch CA, Monster Hobbies in Hayden ID and 2 trips to OKC this year for RC Pro stuff. I'm also trying to run most of the races in the Nitro Invitational here in Texas plus I'm the race director for the September Sizzler in Victoria TX. Also however many other races I can squeeze in. When's the Tumbleweed?

[rcharry]

wow, lots of traveling! The Tumbleweed is in september i think, Or sometime in late summer or fall. ill let you know.

[carlton eppes]

Okay thanks.

[LosiRacer911]

is anyone coming to the watermelon on july 24-27?

[rcharry]

whats the watermelon?

[bravo_whiskey]

I'm in need of a new steering servo for my Storm. I've done the research and pretty much narrowed it down to a few servos. My question is--- is there such a thing as too fast when it comes to servo speed for steering? I'm afraid that a servo with a transit time of only .08 sec. might make the steering too twitchy. My current steering servo is the JR Z590 which has a transit time of .15 sec. I've gotten comfortable with the steering and the car feels like it reacts quickly. Unfortunately, after many, many hours of abuse and punishment , the servo has been laid to rest. Should I go with a faster servo or stay near the speed of the 590?Anyone's thoughts?

[LosiRacer911]

the watermelon is a big race in akien south carolina. i will be there!

as for the servo, send it back to JR. i did on my 590 and they charged me $17.38 to fix it. i think its cheaper than another servo.

[Apis]

Shock springs...

I was wondering if anyone runs the two stage shock springs from GS. Like the ones in the picture.

They come in red yellow and blue.

i was wondering first what is the stiffness order? The red seem the strongest then yellow then blue. For the small and large ones.

Also, what the advantage is to having this mix of tensions, like blue on top and red underneath? My local track has like two jumps, (i know its small) its got a medium to large sized jump and a small jump.

any input...

http://www.gs-europe.com/default_zone/documents/body.jpg

[hoytshooter]

I just got a Storm RTR. I will be raceing on a loose, bumpy track with some decent sized jumps. What setup tips do you guys have? I have already put on blue Ofna springs. I also heard that the RTR pipe is not that great. What pipe do you guys recommend? I want to kick some Ofna and Kyosho tail.;)

[rcharry]

i recommend a pipe that gives off more top speed since your track is lose. Im also looking for that give some lower end punch.
ARE the ofna blues similar to the kyosho blue springs. The kyoshos are enxpensive.
OK guys i got $60 bux to spend on my storm what do i buy!
1. kyosho or ofna blue springs and failsafe $60
2. Ofna 063 pipe $60
3. Pro torque rod and rear alum torque rod holder $55
4. Graphite radio tray, and graph upper plate and pro steering link $60.
5. Crazy nut racing head $60
6. Novak XXL receiver for my XR2 $50
LMK I will post pics of my baby soon

[LosiRacer911]

my local track is real bumpy, and has a lot of jumps, like the big 6ft one. i recommend the kyosho kanai 2 shocks and springs...it was a good investment for me. it made my buggy handle 4 times better...also i had a bulkhead problem. another good investment would be the fioroni bulkhead braces. i bought the k2 shocks wit springs on ebay for $106.00. total it up at tower hobbies and you save $35.00. i will post pictures of my machine soon...

Modifications include-
OS RZ V01B
Kanai 2 shocks and springs
Bulkhead brace
Fioroni diffs
Blue sealed bearings
Hinge pin braces
Hitec 945 and 925 MG servos
and a 12 tootn bell

[carlton eppes]

Bravo

send the Z590 in to JR then use it for the throttle. You need more torque on the steering than the 590 can give or you will be replacing or repairing the servo often. The 358 or 359 Airtronics are good I have good luck with the 945 Hitec.

Apis
I'm looking for the post Garen made about the springs so far I can't find it. He said what the stiffest to sftest was. I run the springs like you but to be honest I don't know that they do anythng different than a single spring does. Theory is the different stiffnesses will allow the shocks to follow the bumps better but still have some extra stiffness for absorbing the jumps without bottoming so bad. Most people run the Kyosho blues or the OFNA blues are supposed to be real close too.

Hoytshooter
The RTR pipe is loud and doesn't make good power. Try a 9886 Novarossi/RB or a T2050 OS. Also look at some Mugen black or white clutch shoes with the Mugen 1mm springs.

Rcharry
If your looking for more bottom end try the Mugen shoes and the 1mm or the OFNA 1.1mm springs. Also buy the blue springs. Same suggestion on the pipe.

Losi racer
That track must be small for a 12 tooth! Yep the bulkhead brace will solve that problem. The Kyosho shock pistons and shafts will fit the stock GS shocks too. As will the seals. I bents several shafts until I put the Kyosho ones in.

[Apis]

Thanks eppes

Its seems to me a better deal cause the GS package comes with varying spring tensions, 3 different springs, for various conditions.
The blues are just one tension. Are they just better all the time? or is it because they are made by kyosho?

In regards to your reply to Losi
Does Kyosho have a shock rebuild kit with rods and seals and stuff?

hey Losi Racer

Do you have the hinge pin braces from HoleShot on Ebay. I got a set of those and they dont line up correctly. The pins that stick out pass directly over the holes in the chasis. So the pins are trying to pass right thru the screws that screw the swing arms and hinge onto the chasis. They seem to wide, am i missing something as to how they go in?

[carlton eppes]

Apis I understand that's why I'm running them too. The reason I suggest the Kyosho or OFNA blues is because 90% of all buggy racers seem to run them, so evidently the spring rate is pretty close for most tracks.

I finally found Garen's post on the springs. It's
Pink = stiffest
Blue= medium
Yellow= softest

Yes there is all 3 colors for less than the Kyosho ones. There are also 3 lengths available so you can run on the rear a long and a short on each shock or insome instances a long and a medium. On the front you can run one long on each shock or a medium and a short on each. If you like experimenting with springs this will make you happy if you just like to stick some springs on and go this may not be for you.

[carlton eppes]

Oh BTW I have 2 buggies so on one I have Blue long and yellow mediums in the rear and pink medium and pink short in the front. The other buggy has yellow lon and pink short in the rear and pink longs in the front. Both run 35 front shock oil with#55 holes in the pistons and 25 rear oil with #56 holes in the pistons. I run on mainly rough tracks and only use the rear sway bar. On the one smooth track I run on I use the front sway bar too.

[LosiRacer911]

yeah i have the braces from ebay. they lined up kind of wierd, so i went to work and worked on it with a drill press and a grinder. i moved the pins out straight, instead of the "angle in" and made a new grove for the e clip and it worked great. i will post pictures tomorrow.

to tell you the truth, the kyosho bodies seemed smoother to me. thats why i used them.

[rcharry]

Shocks are shocks, i belive you can make all shocks the same with some adjustments, or im just cheap! $100 JUST for shocks is CRAZY. I think im going to go with the ofna blue just cuz there 10 bux cheaper than the kyosho's. Im running the stock springs but i have 45wt in the front and 30wt in the rear. and soon with ofna blue's.
Do you guys see a difference in the torque rods. I plan on getting the pro rods soon, will that make a big difference on how the car handals.
im also trading a guy some alum shoes for some 1/8 rims. How will getting alum shoes help. I here they grip alot better, are a little more matince, and also last like 4 time longer. any comments on them.
As for Ebay, when is some one going to part out a Storm Pro. i need the torque rods for 20 bux, that 20 off. Has any gotton the stainless screw set for RC Screwz. Are they all allen heads?
thanks guys

[carlton eppes]

As long as you maintain the RTR torque links your fine. The pro ones are little to no work just check the screws regularly. They do seem to make the chassis stiffer though.
I like the aluminum shoes they will last longer than the plastic ones but they do wear the clutch bell more.

I haven't tried the stainless screws yet I haven't had problems with the stock ones.

[rcharry]

Alright cool, i just think the rtr rods are lame. ill get the pro rods later. i still dont know what to get. i know im getting the ofna blues, but i still have 40 bux left, what should i spend it on.

[carlton eppes]

What's the buggy doing or not doing?

[rcharry]

I think im going to buy some spare parts, and buy that cooling head on ebay. It looks good. Or finish buying the graphite parts, or the pro rods and alum rear rod holder. OR a new reciver cuz i need one badly. It will probaly be that a new reciver, blue springs, and some front lower suspension arm holders.
My car performs great, by my standards, i really have nothing else to compare it to. Like for a new pipe, or somthin like that, once i get my job, im buying everything on my my list.
What things do you reccomend as for performance wise? i think a lot has to do witht the suspen set up, and im taking care of that, but whats next to improve my buggy!

[carlton eppes]

If you have the plastic lower suspension mounts get rid of them! The Dynamite ones work good and you can get 4 for the price of 2 GS ones. If you still have the GS pipe get another one. Look for the OFNA 086 pipe (it's not out yet so watch for it). That pipe will work on most motors that you may buy later to upgrade. I like the Pro steering rack assembly. Graphite stuff is nice but not totally necessary for more performance. If you don't have the pro shock towers then think about them. The braces are nice too. The BEST performance add on you can get is more nitro and track time! Oh and maybe some good tires if you don't already have some.

[rcharry]

Where can i find the dynamite sus mounts? I plan on getting a pipe later on, cuz i keep up with everyone on the track right now. i have the pro shock towers and when you say braces do you mean the rods? I have tires now that work great, so i have traction.
thanks a lot!

[carlton eppes]

here's the dynamite number DYN7807

and here's the page at Horizon
http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/services/advanceresultsDetail.asp?display=pictures&strProd=DYN&strSearchType=ALL&strInCategory=CSO&strInManufacturer=ALL&PageNum=13&strSortBy=ProdNumAsc

[carlton eppes]

and yes I mean the pro braces

[rcharry]

ok, thanks a lot eppes, i really appreciate it!:D

[Apis]

RC

Ya, the RCScrews are allen heads. The sets come with a couple allen wrenchs. I havent ordered them yet... thats next on the list.

Losi

I got the hinge pin to fit last night. Took some tugging and pounding till midnight... But now that Eppes showed us the Dynamite blocks, I 'm going to have to reinstall them when i get those. Although i hear that with aluminum blocks, you don't need the hinge pin brace.
I bought mine cause the screws were ripping right out the side of the chasis. Something about metal into plastic and plastic gives, allowing the screws to wiggle alot, pushing the chasis apart. The chasis is so weak in that spot anyway.

Eppes

So he said that
Pink = stiffest
Blue= medium
Yellow= softest

I found this link off twf8's website. They measured all springs and came up with the K constant wound into each spring or the spring rate. For most major brands.

TWF8 Spring Test (http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/shocks/springraterear.html)

I am not sure how accurate they are because they show for GS rear 70mm springs, the softest to hardest goes yellow blue red, like Garen said but blue yellow red for the front 50mm springs. With blue yellow red for the small 20mm

I am not sure GS would change the colors around, it seems they would be standard blue yellow red for both front, rear, and small.

Also, the Kyosho blues are only .01 N/mm difference in the Spring rate from the GS Blue.

Most of all, I like the two stage look of the GS springs. Very cool looking. Wheres a good place to look for a Pipe?

[Apis]

also, what cooling head would be good for the rtr engine? I was thinking about that one on ebay also?

[rcharry]

The cooling head on ebay looks like the crazy nut head. And its cheaper too. im getting one when i get paid.
As for my $60 bux im gettin the ofna blue springs , the dynamite suspen mounts, and ................ i dunno, got 30 left what should i buy?
ill buy the screw set once i get it all hopped up!

[Killer87]

why don't you buy a fioroni turbo clutch?

[rcharry]

turbo clutch???? No thanks, i dont even know where to get fironi parts. I think im going to get deul brakes to increase breaking power. Then am goin to sabe for new pipe.

[rcharry]

i have money for a pipe. What should i get, im looking for somthing with low end power, and i also dont want to spend ove 70 bux. Im looking at the ofna 063 pipe, but what others are there.

[carlton eppes]

Try the OFNA #10056 that's their version of the one piece 086. I can't find it right now on the Horizon site.

[Apis]

How was the weekened?!

Anyone get out and race? Any good stories?

I went to my local track and spent the whole time fixing my car, it was really lame. I put in that hinge pin brace earlier this week and it ended up binding my steering plate up with my diff case. Then I got some washers in there to push the piece up off the diff case. It was a drag.

So then i got done with that and blew thru two glow plugs in two laps. What Glow plugs do you guys run? My engine temp is usually around 230.

We did find out that they are going to build a track at our local fair grounds, San Jose fairgrounds for anyone in the area. The guys down at RC unlimited are working on it.

[garen]

If you can't find Fioroni parts at your local hobby shop, check out the dealer list page at www.generalsilicones.com.
BTW- Congrat's to Marty Korn for winning the US Gas Champs at KZ Speedway with his Storm Pro.

-- 1/8 PRO BUGGY - A MAIN --
pos Car Laps time name
1 5 79 60:13.66 MARTY KORN GS Storm/M2K
2 9 78 60:01.02 GREG WALLER Mugen
3 1 78 60:02.23 JEREMY KORTZ Kyosho
4 11 77 60:12.87 GREG DEGANI Kyosho
5 10 76 60:09.78 RICHARD SAXTON TTR
6 4 74 60:31.90 CHAD BRADLEY Mugen
7 8 65 60:29.81 DEAN SEXTON Kyosho
8 7 52 46:22.05 RAY NORTE Ho Bao/OFNA
9 3 39 29:07.97 RYAN CAVALIERI Kyosho
10 13 23 18:19.34 GENE HICKERSON Ho Bao/OFNA
11 2 13 10:03.70 JUSTIN WHEELER Ho Bao/OFNA
12 6 8 6:06.82 JOSH WHEELER Ho Bao/OFNA

[garen]

If you can't find Fioroni parts at your local hobby shop, check out the dealer list page at www.generalsilicones.com.
BTW- Congrat's to Marty Korn for winning the US Gas Champs at KZ Speedway with his Storm Pro.

-- 1/8 PRO BUGGY - A MAIN --
pos Car Laps time name
1 5 79 60:13.66 MARTY KORN GS Storm/M2K
2 9 78 60:01.02 GREG WALLER Mugen
3 1 78 60:02.23 JEREMY KORTZ Kyosho
4 11 77 60:12.87 GREG DEGANI Kyosho
5 10 76 60:09.78 RICHARD SAXTON TTR
6 4 74 60:31.90 CHAD BRADLEY Mugen
7 8 65 60:29.81 DEAN SEXTON Kyosho
8 7 52 46:22.05 RAY NORTE Ho Bao/OFNA
9 3 39 29:07.97 RYAN CAVALIERI Kyosho
10 13 23 18:19.34 GENE HICKERSON Ho Bao/OFNA
11 2 13 10:03.70 JUSTIN WHEELER Ho Bao/OFNA
12 6 8 6:06.82 JOSH WHEELER Ho Bao/OFNA

[rcharry]

WOW, the storm beat the 2 big boys, Kortz and Degani.
I thought that Ryan calivarini was racing the ofna 9.5?
ANy more adviceon a pipe.

[Gmanlusk2004]

I've got the Ofna 063 Inline pipe mated w/ my stock storm engine, and it is much quieter, and performs better too. I have also noticed it being a little more fuel efficient as well.

L8r,
Garrett

[rcharry]

Sick Gman, i planned on doing that. the 063 with my stock engine. And tonignt i should win the auction for the nova racing head for the GS engine.

[Gmanlusk2004]

look!!! post # 900!!! wow!! any way... Thats awesome about the head that you are buying, and that you're gonna get the inline pipe. I love my pipe, but i blew my engine. Instead of buying a new p/s i'm gonna just buy a new, better engine.

L8r,
Garrett

[rcharry]

I won the aution for the head, and im going to the buy pipe this weekend, with other storm hop ups.

[Gmanlusk2004]

that's cool... i'm lookin' to buy the XTM .21 Pro or the Ofna Hyper 8 port Race engine as soon as i have the means. But right now i have about 70 bux to spend (the other 70 went to bank) and i'm gonna buy a rx pack and a starter box.

L8r,
Garrett

[rcharry]

Get the hyper 8! Im going to buy a pipe today. I think my lhs only has one its a REX and its $90, im not so happy about that.

[Gmanlusk2004]

did you get the pipe? If not go to www.acehardwarehobbies.com and check out the ofna inline pipes. I have the 063, but they just came out w/ the 086 and that would better suit top end if you need it.

L8r,
Garrett

[rcharry]

I havent got the pipe yet. My lhs changed hours cuz there not busy enough but their other shop is extreamly busy so they work there some days. I need low end for my track, and right now i think im going to have some serious low end after i get my new pipe and 12 thooth clutch bell.

[KawadaKid]

Hey guys....

I was just screwing around on GS's taiwan site and found a complete instruction guide with pics and everything. Just for those of you still in the building process.

http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/car/gsracing/stormprobuild/index/stormproindex.html

[philadater]

Hot news for all GS Storm fans
Neo-Buggy (http://www.neo-buggy.net)

Go here for all the latest updates and news on 1/8 Offroad

[Gmanlusk2004]

update on my storm...

I went up to my lhs today and bought an Omega/Picco XT engine and an Ofna 1/10 and 1/8 universal starter box w/ 12 v motor. Haven't been able to break the engine in yet, but i'll be getting there soon. I can't wait to get it to run.

L8r,
Garrett

[LosiRacer911]

I got my bulkhead brace on...Now, I have to go race to break something again.

[rcharry]

that gs link didnt work!
Cool Gman thoes look fast!
Losi, blukhead brace???? Cant remember what that is!

Anyways i got my Nova Racing head and its BADD ***** !!!!!! I love it. Its so much more bigger and cooler looking! MAN!!! its great. I got to expand my engine hole in my body cuz its so much more bigger!

[CK9887]

Well i have had my storm for a few months now and am having diff troubles. I was driving my car at the track about a month ago and i noticed a big loss in power, the engine was revving but the acceleration sucked and was nothing close to what the engine was revving at...Make sense?
Well it turns out it was the diffs, so i sent in the diffs to horizon and they sent me a new set, i built the new set and have put about 7 tanks through the diffs and im starting to notice a loss in power again:( :( :( :mad:

I just dont know what to do, theres really nothing else to do, i think i will take it to my hobby shop and have them look at it. I think i may sell it and get maybe the HB lightning, or the new version of the X-terminator, that looks awesome.

[Gmanlusk2004]

you're leaving us? You have had A LOT of problems w/ your diffs. I had to replace mine once (external helical cut gears) and that fixed everything. are you totally, 100% sure that you are building them right? Storms are better than the lightning and x terminator. I'm not saying this because i own one, but the storm is just plain better. I dunno.. suit yourself.

L8r,
Garrett

[rcharry]

i think im having that same problem. But it might be my radio cuz it is broken and crappy. I just may not begetting a good signal. Ill tear the car apart tonight cuz im going to lhs tommoaw for a check up and some parts.

[CK9887]

Gman, you say you used external helical cut gears? How are those different from stock?

Im pretty sure they were built right, i took one to my LHS (larrys) and the guy felt one that i built and said it felt good, so i am guessing i built them right.

[Gmanlusk2004]

i'm talking about the ring and pinion gears that go outside of the casing of the differential. they are helical cut so they don't strip as easily. those are the only gears that have given me problems... except for the clutchbell and main gear (my own stupidity):rolleyes:

L8r,
Garrett

[Gmanlusk2004]

On another different subject... i was just thinking and i have put about 900 dollars into my storm now. and i finally just got it race ready. I don't have any frills in my storm... here's how i figured my price though..

storm-$500
engine-$135 (special deal)
starter box-$65 (special deal too)
3 gallons of gas-$60
clutch bell-$10
springs and shoes-$10
tires and wheels-$40
digital servo-$60
pro line body-$30
ofna inline pipe-$70
glow plug ignitor-$20
glow plugs-$10

All of this crap for my storm to finally become ready to race. grand total of.....

$1010 dollars. holy $#!+

I didn't know i had that much money!!!! makes me want to sell it almost. :D

L8r,
Garrett

[LosiRacer911]

try your clutch. i have had bad clutch springs in mine and when it gets to top speed, it sounded like something was slipping, and all it was burning up a set of shoes. don't sell the storm yet, give it another chance.

[hvp014]

hey guys im getting a storm rtr and have a moto savers tmaxx air filter never used (got in a mystery box) and was wondering, 1 will it fit 2 will it work well.:D

[rcharry]

well my problem was an empty diff, so i filled it but have not run it yet.
Gman her my list.
Storm $350 (no radio)
Accsesories $200
More accsesories $200
Hop ups $100
Tires $60 (uslly get mine free)
fuel $20
And im about to drop another $300 on hop ups and parts.
Total $1230 Yeah thats alot, but racing is so FUN!!!
The motor saver may work depends what size the tube is.

[Fidelio]

hvp014 the tmaxx filter is probably too small. check http://www.motorsaver.com for more info.

they have two versions which are labeled for tmaxx. one can be used on 1/8 scale buggies and one can't.

since you said you got it in a mystery bag i'm going to guess it's the older one, which is too small for 1/8 scale.

[hvp014]

this is what i got i was thinking it was tooo big (no this is not my maxx)

info online-
60° High Airflow T-maxx 2.5 Engine Filter

The high airflow filter is balanced perfectly for the new 2.5 engine. It has ram air capability for mid and top end.
Very fine powdery dirt is a harsh environment for nitro engines. The filter cap can be removed to slide out the inner foam. Dirt ring will show at the end of the foam element. This will help give information when it is time to clean.
This filter with a 60° base is parallel with the chassis and clears the transmission and linkage. There is also room to add the1/8 scale outer foam element .

[Killer87]

Well I finnally got back from my vacation and I starting to read all of the posts(well acctually not all of them). I hoping to get out and race my car soon. In the amount of time I was gone 2 new tracks poped up so Im gonna try to check them out. All I can say is, man its nice to be back. :)

[rcharry]

Long vacation, that was like a month!!!!
Well i got my new pipe and its awwsome Ofna 063. Man it is 30 times quiter, and with my new engine head and my car looks PIMPED out, all chrome. If my LHS gets my storm parts in the next few days ill buy my hop ups there. But if not im ordering them off horizon and my car will be a racing pro!!!!!

[TalleyRacing2]

Carlton,
I need to give you a call when I get back to the states. I'm gona order my Pro here in a week or two. Need to get some guidance on a few things as I'm building it. Only 80 more days til I'm out of Korea. hehe

[carlton eppes]

Steve
Just ley me know when you start building and I'll help anyway I can. Email me and I'll give you my number since I can't remember which email of yours is current now. :)

[Gmanlusk2004]

hey... long time since you've been here carlton.

I just picked up some Proline Knuckles today and they are freakin' awesome. They hook up on just about eveything and look badass on my storm. My engine is fully broken in now and it keeps up w/ the rzv01 w/ out a problem.

I've got a question though... how often do yall go through clutch bearings? I've had to replace mine at least 4 times now and i've only run about 3 gallons on my clutch assembly (all 3 gallons on storm engine only 2 fuel bottles on new engine) They went out on me again today so i'm going up to buy some more tomorrow so i can run again.

L8r,
Garrett

[Killer87]

Who are you buying your bearings from? I've heard that BOCA bearings are good. I've never tried them though. Of course they are ceramic so you can't race in ROAR, RC Pro Series, and other big races with them.

[Killer87]

Yeah I was away for 17 days. i went to France and a little of Italy. My favorite part was the French Alps and the French Riviera. They had nice beaches if you know what I mean;) :p :D . Too bad I didn't get to go skiing though. Every year France has this big 2 week vacation in the Alps and they close almost everything. Last time we went it was the last two weeks of May, so we figured we'd be able to ski. They changed it though and moved it back a week:( . Oh well. At least I had fun staying with our mountain friends.

[rcharry]

Gman ive only blew ne so far and i just finished my first gallon.
I finished tuning my car with the new pipe, and man it screams!!!
Have any of you had problems with the front lower suspension mounts, if i hit somthing or flip minorly the heads of the screws snap off! This week i've gone through about 10 screws, so i got thicker ones to stop and only one has broke (danm Pinecone!)
With the alum suspen mounts prevent this from happening??
Killer i like thoes beaches too!!!:p Went there about a year ago, i love france but england sux!

[carlton eppes]

Gman

How tight are you shimming the bearings? Your clutch nut isn't backing off and squezzing the bearings is it?

RCharry
The pro or Dynamite aluminum mounts will help that but I think the only cure will be the new brace that GS has for the lower hinge pins. You can use longer bolts thru the
mounts with a lock nut on top and it will keep the screws tight better which will keep the mount from being twisted around which is what's breaking the screws.

Killer unless you have pics to share.............. HUSH UP! ;)

Oh BTW the ceramic bearings that the rules talk about are engine bearings. I don't think even ROAR will check the clutch bell bearings.

[rcharry]

eppes where can i find thoes braces? and what do they really do?

[Boostedbruiser]

Hello gentlmen.
Its been a long while since i've been on the boards. Deployments for the military kind of keep me dark. I was just curious where in houston people are racing? Where the tracks are at etc? I have 3 Storms. well ones a parts car, but when i come home i want to try getting some racing in. I'm from Spring just north of houston. When i was home last i really wasn't into nitro now after almost 2 years in korea i got a few gas cars.

I try to race here in korea, but no serious offroad tracks. Mostly on road. Besides korea drivers aren't very good. They are really good at bashing into each other and me. :mad:

So if anyone could just give me a few locations where the tracks are at i would appreciate it. When i get home it should be for about a month so hopefully i'll get some time in.

Thanks everyone for your info. Its good read about new things from over here. Can't read anything else its all in hongul(korean)

[rcharry]

im not from houston but from what ive read on the boards K & N is a good track for 1/8 and theres a few others.
Check on the HB Lighting thread alot of thoes guys are from houston. Oh and tell them your going to beat them!!!

[CK9887]

I live just north of Houston and one of the good 1/8 tracks is M&M. Its located at Chimney rock and Bellaire. www.texasspeedwayrc.com

Another track is K&M in New Caney, its ok for 1/8 but mainly good for 1/10, its kinda tight for 1/8. I raced there last night with my storm.

Fastrak hobbies also has a really nice track that was just built on the east side of Houston but i dont know much about that.

check out this site: www.teamhoustonrc.com

[rcharry]

Hey guys, i ran my storm for about a tank tonight and i cant tune it. Yesterday it was great and running nice then today while i was running it, after about a 1/2 of the tank, when i would gun it it would bog out and gruggle. Is the pump at the bottom of the tank clogged or is the crab clogged or what? I would play with the needle and it would be fine for a while then it bogs out again! It boged out so bad one time i did a whole 360! (it was cool) So is the carb or pumped clogged or is it still just not tuned right?

[CK9887]

Last night when i raced at K&M i missed 2 of the races because my car kept bogging down. Any time i would give it throttle it would bogg down and die. We spent about 2hrs trying to figure it out. I had like 5 guys around my car helping me out.
We finally took off my fuel filter and it work, which means my fuel filter was restricting the fuel. After i took the filter off i noticed the car was much more powerful.
Try taking your filte off and see if that helps???

My diffs didnt give me any problems yesterday, i didnt place very well but i was really happy with how i did becuase those guys have Mugens and Kyoshos with RB engines and im running my stock storm with the stock engine, lol.
I actually got the hole shot on one of the starts, at that point, 10secs. into the race, i was saying run clock run, LOL. :p
I could keep up with the other guys on the straights.
I would have done a lot better except that i had no brakes, i was missing the little set screw on the brake linkage. I had to left off the throttle way earlier than the other guys so that i could slow down in time for the coner, thats where i got passed. And my turns were so wide since i couldnt brake and kinda swing the back end around like most the guys do. I almost hit a few corner marshells,lol, they had to jump over my car a few times cause i couldnt turn sharp enough and went near the outside of the track, haha.

There were about 10 guys in the 1/8 scale class and i placed 7th, im happy with it though since i had no brakes and i have a stock engine:rolleyes: I mean, Cmon, my driving is perfect, its gotta be the car. Damn Storm. LOL. :p
i was the youngest guy in the 1/8 class, im 15 and everyone else in the class was atleast 30. Everyone was suprised to se me racing 1/8.

Im planning on spending a lot of money on my Storm within the next few weeks. I want to get New tires and wheels, New body, New wing , and new shock springs. Why you may ask, well i want to change the look of my car:D

I also want a Nova cooling head, will this really make a difference? I would think so, cause if it could make it run cooler than you could lean out the engine more, right?

[fearsome]

rcharry,

This is the GS Storm conversion to a kyosho style lower arm braces.

New chassis and lower hinge pin braces....you no longer need the A-B blocks that have caused so much trouble with the storm.
(Getting the alu A-B blocks you will still have lower arm problems like arm wobbling, blocks are not perfectly set on the chassis because chassis holes wear out or the chassis ears that the blocks sit on deform so you dont get perfect toe-in left to right!)

It is made by Fioroni
Part no. is OTGS30

[Gmanlusk2004]

hey.. how much is that kit?

And i had duratrax bearings in there, but i went up to my lhs, and bought some boca's. Haven't had them long enough to tell if they are better, but i'm sure they are.... they are rubber sealed unlike the duratrash i got.

I had a great time runnin' my storm yesterday at my friends backyard track.... he too has a storm and we race.

As for the stalling of the engine... i had that problem yesterday.. and it took us 2 hours to realize what it was. My engine came w/ a carb restrictor, and thinking that it was gonna slow me down, i stupidly took it out, thus makeing the air to fuel mixture all messed up. And the other problem was that my fuel lines were way to skinny.... i put some 1/10 scale fuel lines on my buggy and it wasn't letting enough fuel into my engine... making it die. It would idle all day long, but would not go mid to high range.

L8r,
Garrett

[Apis]

That kits awesome, we have all been waiting for something like that. Probably too expensive for me though. Is it for sale anywhere yet?

I am having a problem with my front C-Hub carriers. They are the plastic RTR ones and they keep breaking in the same spot. The really weak plastic sliver of a support just inside the front drive axle.

Its only like 4 mm thick right in there, just keeps breaking out. This causes my upper suspension arms to bend as the the whole C hub bends back towards the car.

Is my only option to get aluminum carriers? Anyone else seen this?

[fitj]

seeing the new chassis, i have a feeling I might regret having just bought one of the dynamite chassis. (only affordable pro) OH well, next time around.

[Killer87]

CK: No, getting a better head does not mean you can run it leaner. The whole idea of lean and rich is to not only change the temps but also lubrication. If you get a better head and run it leaner, yes the engine temp will be the same or lower, but you will have much less lubrication. Less lubrication means more wear.

[CK9887]

so would spending 50$ on a head be worth it?
Im looking at the Nova head.

[fearsome]

kit is available already.

about 127.92 euro $$ = $147.82US

not too bad considering you also get all the alu braces!

[rcharry]

CK your doing the same thing im doing. I have the nova head and it really doesnt make a difference but it looks badazz! The fins are too close togeather, but it may help a little bit. I suggest the kyosho blue springs, i only have the front ones now, and they make my suspension so much smoother.I dont know why you would need a new wing.
Im also 15 and am the youngest racing 1/8 scale, but its cool when your young. All the guys are nice too me, then when i make a food run, they give me stuff! We have a pro racer who lives here, and he helps me with all the set ups and everything.
And by the end of the week my storm will be a pro. The stock engine is great for my track and i too can keep up with the RB and novarossies out there.
Yeah, whats with the crappy breaks, i dont think the rotors grab very well. I plan on buying the ofna roters and different pads too.
Fearsome, I really havent seen the problem with the wobbleing when everything is perfect. I just put in longer thicker screws in the plactic ones for now, till i get my alum ones. And $150 bux is too much bread for my kitchen!
Apis, i would stop crashing if i were you. Your probally hit the curb or pipe when you break that part right. Dont get the alum c-hubs, after 3 crashes it would be shot and there goes $75 bux, instead of $15 when you break that plastic part 3 times.
Well i tore my car apart and cleaned everything. I think my carb was clogged so i cleaned that and now im going to buy a fuel filter. hopefully that helps.

[CK9887]

Isnt the Nova Head the Same as the CrazyNut cooling head? I have those 2 mixed up.
Also, will a reciever pack make any difference in performance? like servo speed? Now im using recharchable Nicd's 1.5v each, so its still getting 6v's.


I dont know why you would need a new wing
My wing is yellow, so are my shock springs, and my wheels. I want a metalic silver and black body, with matybe those grey Hyper wheels, a white wing, and i guess blue shock springs if those work well.

[Redfox]

Hey all, i figured i better listen to rcharry and start visiting the GS Storm part of the forums a bit more... it will hopefully make me more "pro" :D

I am running a Storm Pro with a Thunder Tiger Pro21BXR in it... soon to be a modified non-pullstart version. I'm gonna turbo the crank and mod the sleeve a bit.

I am also picking up a second hand GS start box off a mate.

Anywayz, love to talk storm anytime :)

Just one more thing...

Originally posted by CK9887
Last night when i raced at K&M i missed 2 of the races because my car kept bogging down. Any time i would give it throttle it would bogg down and die. We spent about 2hrs trying to figure it out. I had like 5 guys around my car helping me out.
We finally took off my fuel filter and it work, which means my fuel filter was restricting the fuel. After i took the filter off i noticed the car was much more powerful.
Try taking your filte off and see if that helps???

Don't ever run your engine without a filter. It's just plain stupid and a quick way to ruin your engine. Don't even just start it up with no filter... even if you aren't racing, you would be surprised how much crap can just fly in.

Also when you are taking your filter off, be careful not to let any dirt get into the venturi on your carb. This is even worse than the little particles that the filter is trying to prevent.

Happy racing :D

[fearsome]

Redfox....i think he was talking about a inline fuel filter, not the air filter......

Rcharry....you will have wobbling arms soon dont you worry (mostly the rear arms) have you checked your rear toe-in with a setup board?
check your chassis holes where the A-B block sit (rear)...they wear out (oval out) once this happens forget about having the correct toe-in in the rear!
I race on a competitive level and push the car hard to be fast!
Once you get faster and push harder you'll see......
On a pro level any kind of slop/wear will make you slower than the next guy...eg. having the incorrect rear toe-in will really make you slower and this WILL happen on the standard Storm/Storm PRO!

[fearsome]

Dont get me wrong....I dont mean to bash the Storm!
I've been running the Storm PRO for about 1 year now and it is a fast car! I've beaten many cars with it like KE2, Mugens etc etc...
This is GS's first 1/8 Buggy and I reckon they did a great job with it.....cant wait too see the new GS buggy!!! maybe Storm PRO 2???

[bravo_whiskey]

Has anyone seen the new braces GS is making for the Storm? Horizon has them listed, but no pic. Same with the GS website. I'm wondering if they are similar to the braces on Ebay. Also, when might they be available? I'm tired of bending screws on the pin mounts!

[Killer87]

How do you stop the screw from bending in the lower suspension mounts?

[Spurdog28]

I am sure this was covered at some point but I can not find it. I race at a track that has a 400ft drive line. It is open and flows very well. It is hard packed and rough. It is outdoor and we usually run on a groove. I have searched everywhere for a setup and the ones I found do not tell you the type of track they are for. I held the record for awhile this year then somebody came in with a Kyosho and raised it up a lap. I practice a lot and work there so I dont need the obvious, I was just wondering what some other people have tried. I run a Storm Pro with 35 wt oil all around, blue rear springs, pink front, sway bar front and rear, I have stock gearing, an OS RG w/ Ofna chrome pipe, 3000 front oil, 7000, center oil, 1000 rear oil, 0 toe, -1 front camber, -2 rear camber, the remainder of the setup is stock (shock mounting and camber links). I run either Crime Fighters or Knuckles depending on if it has rained recently or not. I know this is deep but we have a big race and I need to find a little better setup. My car handles good, I can dive in or push hard into the turn. The car will not spin at all, we have one banked turn that I may occasionally traction roll in. Basically I am trying to decide if it is worth it to run any Torsen diffs, and the best way to free the entire car up. Thanks!

[fearsome]

Bravo,

This is the braces i think you are talking about.
Your better off getting the Fioroni Conversion kit I posted afew posts up!

These braces are an attempt to prevent the separation of the A-B blocks.
I dont like them because:
They still require the uses of the A-B blocks.
They are not complete hinge pin braces like the fioroni conversion(they are only on one side - one for front and one for rear!)
It is only a temporary fix!

Part no. are GS-STP37 and GS-STP38

[fearsome]

GS-STP38

[fearsome]

Spurdog,

You mentioned that your track is hard pack and rough.

Have you tried drilling out your shock pistions to 1.6mm and trying heavier shock oils?
Alot of the "top" K drivers here in Aust do this and I tried it myself.
I used 45wt front and 40wt rear and what a difference it made! just awesome......if you dont like it you can always put the stock piston back in cuz they are cheap part to get!

With torsens it depends on your driving style!
If you drive say like Kanai, well yes then torsen would be ideal for you (Quite obvious as the KE2 come standard with TCD/LCD)......but if you like to "throw" you car into corner (drift slide) like then you wont like torsens.....Torsens are fantastic on high traction tracks like grass cuz they provide even more traction! also a plus about Traction Control Diffs are that they great tire wear - have less wheelspin!

If your having trouble with traction roll then i suggest you cut the tread (outside edge) of the tires! or maybe try more camber angles.....try different swaybars.....looking at other ppls setup can help but the only "real" way is to try it for yourself and experiement. Dont forget to keep it in a notepad to keep a setup history and comments of what changes did what otherwise things will start getting confusing!

[bravo_whiskey]

Thanks, Fearsome for the info. Until I can save up enough pennies to get the fioroni kit, I'll probably try the new braces. Hell, Horizon has them listed at $14. Not too bad even for a temporary fix.

[Spurdog28]

Thanks for some clarification fearsome. I will try some things tonight.

[Spurdog28]

What about using progressive springs?

[Spurdog28]

Last thing for now. Does anyone else make a Torsen Diff besides Fioroni that will fit the Storm? Thanks once again.

[fearsome]

Dont know any other Torsens that fit the Storm....but fioroni do make the best ones as far as i know....

With the progressive spring I've experimented abit and found that
condition hard packed clay, blue groove track (on the groove high traction - off the groove shocking!!! tip: stay on the groove)

front: Long blue/short pink
rear: Long blue/short yellow

worked best for me.....its all experimenting and trial and error.....

I've done some mods to my car to make it handle and perform better...if i can, i'll try to get pics you may or may not wont to try it......but some of the mods have made a world of difference...

If you serious about racing on a pro level you cant look past torsens as a tuning aid....as i said earlier the KE I/II have them standard from kit (TCD/LSD) and IMHO will have that extra edge compared to standard diffs......BUT then again some ppl I know, and are awesome drivers will swear by standard diff....but "YOU" wont know till you try it for yourself. I took the plunge and got the front torsen and what a different it made....now i'm very seriously considering the center!

[Spurdog28]

Thanks again. The setups I did find out there were mostly front Torsen's, but in reading Fioronis's site the center is the most benificial. Hmmmm...... Dont know. Is there anywhere in the states I can get prices for the Fioroni Diffs? I see there are some out there for the Ofna's for about $99 and I wasnt sure if they would fit or not. I am going to do some cleaning on mine and I have a club race tonight. I will start with these ideas and let ya know.

[integra d12]

Fearsome_ I am extreamly intrested in that chassis but I have been told from garren at gs that this conversion is not going to be avalible for 3-4 months in the states. I am willing to buy it from any international location I hate it when there is something avalible that I can get in the states. Do you have a place I can call to order the chassis and ship it to the states.

[integra d12]

spurdog email me I work at a local shop I can get any fironi stuff that you need ( that is avalible in the states) just let me know.

[Spurdog28]

what exactly does the progressive spring do for you?

[Spurdog28]

I finally finished going through every page. Bill Jeric of Horizon told me about the Storm upgrades but I was wondering if anyone has heard anymore about them. I saw Fearsome had a post earlier. He told me they would be out around July.

[garen]

Regarding the new Fioroni conversion kit, you might want to double check the price that was posted here earlier.
We will have the conversion kit soon, it won't be 3-4 months. We can bring them in right now, but our experience with our U.S. based customers has led to us delay bringing in new products until we can supply detailed instructions and packaging info (for example, you will need to purchase hinge pins separately), and until we get to test the product ourselves to make sure it is ok.
We would rather wait a couple of extra weeks to get things right instead of hearing from "expert" drivers who have problems building a conversion kit, or complain about not knowing that they have to buy a couple of extra screws to make a kit work. Sorry, but it is in everyone's best interest.
We are currently testing the kit, and hope to have them in stock by mid-late July.

[rcharry]

Wow alot been posted!
Fearsome I dont want to sound like an idiot but what are the A-B blocks? Are you taking about the suspen mounts?
And cant you make a stock diff perform like a torsen diff by filling in with diff oil.
Spurdog, i run 5k,7k,1k maybe the 5k will give you what you want? cheap way to find out too!

[fearsome]

Garen,

I see you point about testing it which is great!
The price that I stated earlier is from the MW online hobbyshop in Austria! and brousing thru their shop shows this part to be available.

I have afew questions regarding this convbersion kit:

I see there in no option for front caster angles and rear antisquat....only rear ton-in?? will there be any option for this???
I have done mods to the front of my car to increase caster angle (similar to Lachat's car - he denies it but the pictures of his car show otherwise!!!!)

Also, now that toe-in can be adjusted by the rear hingepin brace is there a new part for the rear upright (hub carrier) as I have posted in this forum regarding the weakness of the rear upright!
(I dont want the alu uprights....way to expensive for such an item)

Originally posted by fearsome
Regarding toe-in.....as i mentioned in a earlier post, those toe-in tabs make the hub carrier weak....I have (and other GS driver here in Australia) have broken them...the fracture is right where the tabs are....(the tabs are the only contact area on the shaft concentrating the impact force on that small area!)
Also, having the collar with the set screw in the middle to hold the pin weakens the hub carrier as it takes "meat" (plastic) away from the carrier...I have done some mods front and rear to strength this but it is still a weak point by design....so I would like to see an option/part part that uses C-clips to hold the shaft (get rid of the collar with 1 set screw) and a solid hub carrier.


Enuf question for you Garen....(for now ;) ...)

Rcharry,

The torsen vs standard diff will aways be open to debate and different drivers will say different things simply because A driver drives differently to B driver!

Yes you can control the differential action of the diff by the use of different diff oil wt.....but one thing that standard diffs cannot do is sense loss of traction which torsen will and do! (that is why they are called TORque SENsing diffs)
Why do you think the high end kyosho KEI/II had these diffs standard from kit?? simply cuz they are better!
You will never know until you really try if for yourself...I have tried both and found that my lap times did decrease using the torsen! I'm quite comfortable using either diffs but in the end what ever reduces my lap times i will use :)

Using thinner oil in the center say 5k will make the car easier to driver but will promote more front wheel spin when under power! (power unload to the front wheels)
Have you seen some car when exiting a corner for the main straight the front tyres ballon up real bad this front wheel spin is the main cause of your front tyres wearing fast!
What a center torsen will do is sense the loss of traction in the front wheels and transfer the power to rear wheels so you get more traction (more drive out of the corner! ACCELERATION!!!!!)
no point having a powerful engine if you cant put that power to the ground right?!
This is my experience and observation only so flame away!! :)

[fearsome]

Oh i forget there is one big advantage of thinner oil in the center.

when the track is really rutted up bad with bad holes and hardly any smooth parts and generally cannot really put some power down hard.....the thinner oil is ideal cuz when you car hit the holes the car doesnt launch out (jump out) of the holes and get upset!

[fearsome]

Garen,

If that is not the correct price what will it expected to be???

[garen]

I checked the Austrian website, and the price posted was about 173 Euro, about $200 USD using current exchange rate.
The part is available in Europe as they are usually quicker to get new items from Italy.

I don't know why you are posting that there is no option for the rear antisquat, the kit includes 3 blocks/plates for rear toe, 3 plates for rear antisquat, and one set for the front antisquat. Rear toe has 1, 2, and 3 degree. Rear anti squat is 1, 2, and 3 degree. The front blocks (likely going to be called A blocks) will set the suspension at -1 degree. The chassis has 8 degrees kickup, therefore total antisquat is 7 degrees. We are certain Fioroni will produce a B block with +1 degree (9 total) later on.
All this and more are in the instruction sheet.

As far as I know there are no new rear hubs. What Fioroni makes is separate from what GS makes. You can easily reinforce the hubs/arms. If you don't like using the collar inside the hub, use a longer hinge pin (or shock shaft), and install collars on either end of the arm. You can do this for the front arms too.

Please- If anyone ever has any questions about our products, the best source for info is your distributor or manufacturer.

[integra d12]

thanks for helping us out on this one. Can't wait to get the conversion.

[Spurdog28]

racing went great last night. I stuck with the shocks being the same as before. I actually tried thicker oil 7000 (f), 10000 (c), and 3000 (r), and I added some droop to the suspension arms. I picked up my extra lap. I also switched to Powermaster 30% to get the motor running better (it worked). I am able to push the car harder but I find myself having to powersteer. THe back end comes around on power but I can control. Anyway I got my lap I needed a 14 5:09.1, I just need about 10 seconds and I will be happy as can be. With a 2wd I would take some rear camber out and raise the front just a little bit. Would this help in anyones opinion? Thanks I race again tomorrow.

[Spurdog28]

I problem I am having occasionally that I have not seen addressed on the site is about the steering rack assembly. A couple of us are having a problem where in a sharp turn the rack "hangs" up and gets stuck. Has anybody else had this problem? I think it is because they only give you one plastic spacer for the servo saver side and not the other side.

[integra d12]

I have had this problem too I was thinking it was my servo jamming didnt even think it was the rack that would be the problem. There might be a fix that I read about on rc- racing, The fix is really one that prevents the breakage of the front c-hubs and cvd's but I think it might help you out with this problem too.

Quote from garren on rc-racing.
" You can remedy this problem on both the Vision and Storm by
installing posts (like fuel tank mounts for the Storm) to the steering knuckles (where the ball stud for the steering linkage goes.) This will act as a "stop" and limit the amount of extra steering throw the car has when you hit a board or land off camber"

[integra d12]

the 10000 in the center could you tell the diffrence on the traction out of the corners..

[CK9887]

hey guys,

I just bought Duratrax real race from a guy and it should be here in the mail tommorow,
If i practice with the Axis alot do you think it will help my driving skills with the storm?

Does anybody here have Real race? How does the Axis compare with the storm?

I want to practice a lot and suprise some people next time i race:D

The real race i got is the First version, incase your wondering.

[fishstix]

I just bought a used storm that was RTR. It did not come with an instruction booklet.

Question 1. What are the settings before break-in??

Question 2. Is there other buggy bodies that fit the Storm??

Question 3. In the RTR version what is in the diffs?? just grease??

Thanks in advance. I hope to run tomorrow at the club track.

[integra d12]

the diffs just have grease in them, and the proline crowd pleaser fits pretty nice. So I'm guessin here but I would think any body that fits the kyosho 8th's will also fit the storm. I'm not sure on the settings for the motor.

[Spurdog28]

with the 10000 I noticed the back end wanting to break loose but it never really did. I am skeptical about changing the shocks I got 14 laps every run yesterday. The car seemed dialed except the front end wanting to come around, I ended up turnign my DR down. I thought about changing where my steering linkage is on the steering plate (currently middle). Dont know though. We have a big race this coming weekend I guess I will see what happens.

[rcharry]

Hey guys, hows it going. Seems like we're all helping each other out.
I havn't had trouble with my sterring getting stuck.
Fearsome i know what the torsen's do and all, i just dont get why people just dont fill there diffs with the right oil. But i can see why they would want one, because it does transfer the power to other wheels.

Ok, my questions. I raced last night, and for most part, i got my Arse kicked!! Most of it was technical problems. Glow plug died in first heat about half way through, didnt finish. My clutch bell explodied in the second heat, only did 2 laps. ANd in the main I really didnt start untill 4 min in, ran good for 5 min, then jumped the triple and turned another driver t-boned me off the jump i rolled, and the Stupid corner marshall didnt see me untill i died with about 10 seconds left. I ran 7 laps, not bad for half race.

But i had no take off what so ever. I start 6 and the 10 driver would pass me by the turn. Im still running the stock GS motor, which was really good untill i got my racing head and ofna pipe. I have a gallon through it. I dont know if its my clutch shoes or needle settings.
I havent played with the low end needle. WIll that help? And what would i do?

oh, quick shock ??? My track is really choppy, should i go spacers or no spacers. I ran with one during the heat, did ok. then i put some more on and seemed ok. i plan on going to the track this week to get all the quinks out, and figure out my set up.

[Spurdog28]

Work on the low end needle settings. I ran that motor last year and it is a good motor (I think). Also take a look at your droop settings. I added droop and it helped me a lot. As for the needle settings on the low end remember that 1/16 of a turn makes a huge difference, and drive a few laps to see how changes you make effect the car. On the low end there is a "sweet" spot that is much finer then on the high end, and honestly working on the low end is what helped me the most. Hope this helps.

[rcharry]

WOW, thanks alot, your a life saver. Ill try it out somtime this week. Whick way i turn it, lean or rich? I dont know what happened i now have more high end then lowend, I mean my friend takes off in his truck and is way in front of me, then i fly by him. Its wierd
thanks ALOT

[CK9887]

hey guys,
Last time i raced i felt like i had barely any steering. Im using a JR 550 servo so i dont think thats the problem. I think its just mainly the brakes, because i had no brakes when i raced.
Is that the problem? I kept going way to wide and my DR adjustment is all the way up.
I also Increased the front toe out because that will improve steering. What about camber though? I read in my AE T3 manual that you should never use Positive Camber, so should i use negative camber?



thanks

[Spurdog28]

You have a couple problems going on:

1st - switch to a stronger servo. The JR 550 has only about 80 oz of torque. The speed is fine but it cannot hold the wheels turned as well it as it should. I use a JR 8550 with a .12 transit time and 188 oz of torque. It is also Digital and metal gear so it is stronger and recenters faster.

2nd - never use positive camber! Start with about -1 in the front and -2 in the rear. If you dont have enough onpower traction take away some if the rear camber or move the shocks in.

3rd - with an 1/8th scale you need brakes and that will attribute to the problem a little, maybe more depending on the track. take a look to see how to fix the brakes.

4th - the toe-out was right but it can make the car a little unstable set the toe-out back to zero and try the camber adjustment.


The last thing to check is where the steering linkage is connected on the steering rack, the front hole I beleive is the most responsive.

Hope this helps.

[rcharry]

for your brakes, you may not have enough torque in the servo to get good brakes. Thats my case, i have a hi speed for throttle but it only has 50oz of torque and i really dont get good breaking. You may need a stronger servo there too. I suggest hitec mg 645 and mg 625

[CK9887]

Spurdog-
thanks for the help

I noticed in the rear it is set with a little Toe-in, should i set that bake to zero?

I will try the camber suggestions but i dont have a camber guage so i will just eyeball it. I know, that sounds pathetic that i dont even have a camber guage but i just got a job so i will have money for that stuff soon.

Also, the throttle servo is the standard servo, (JR 250 or something). So if i got a new steering servo then i could put the Jr 550 for throttle and it would be a little more responsive, or will it not be noticable?


thanks

[rcharry]

that should help. 80oz seems good

[CK9887]

rcharry- i just saw your post,


maybe then i will get a better steering servo and put the JR 550 for throttle.

[rcharry]

do that, and for steering make sure to get a metal gear.

[integra d12]

When eye balling the camber if you dno't all ready know use a board that has a good 90degree corner on it or your instruction manual it helps alot. Also rpm makes a adaquite camber gauge that is only 7 bux. If your lookin for a solid power house survo look at the airtronics 94358 it has an amazing 200 oz torque and .10 ( i think) at 6v and its not digital.

[fearsome]

I found the same thing as you spurdog with heavier center diff oil...i even tried 15000 wt...one thing i also found was that you get alot more forward drive but I couldnt be on the gas early (i had to get it around the corner first and line up the car then I could punch and be hard on the gas...
If I was early on the gas it would oversteer and the rear would wanna come around (like you found) but I guess with abit of throttle control you could handle this :)
In my center now i currently have a mix of 7k and the 10k wt oil (about 50/50)

I use to run the the steering in the rear hole (steering plate) but now in the centre too....
I found that moving to the rear you get less initial steering (not so twitchy) so it made the car more predictable and easier to drive but as I got better I've moved to the centre....remember a twitchy car is a fast car as long as you can handle and drive it!

What swaybar are you using?

Sorry Garen, I must have been stoned or something didnt see the options....LOL.....my humble apologies...

[Spurdog28]

RC9887

A digital servo is nice because it centers faster. Go ahead and use the 550 for throttle. The main reason I use JR is they are covered under a three warranty.

Fearsome

I am using stock sway bars. Not very heavy at all in the front (none sticking out) and not very heavy in the rear either (about 5 mm), but our track is kinda rough. I might try the shock setup you mentioned I am kinda afraid to now that it is running good. My fastest pace was a 14 5.01.00, so I am close.

[fishstix]

Digital servos. My buggy is supposed to have digital servos...I think he ran it in water before he sold it to me...(hey it was cheap and just wanted a buggy to play around with) but are they kinda loud..I mean when the work do they make a lot of noise?? I was going to replace them anyway just wanted to know if I needed to before I run it for the first time.

[rcharry]

Will adding thicker sway bars make a huge differance?
oh, quick shock ??? My track is really choppy, should i go spacers or no spacers. I ran with one during the heat, did ok. then i put some more on and seemed ok. i plan on going to the track this week to get all the quinks out, and figure out my set up.

[fearsome]

Spurdog,
thinner swaybar will help in the corners by providing more traction...they allow for more body roll which lessen the car from breaking loose (transfer of weight!)
I was using the stock (thickest) in the rear and thinnest in the front until a good friend (one of our top sponsored drivers) help me setup and we put the thinnest all around.....it really help in the mid field of our track (lots of zig-zag turns) the car was faster thru the zig-zags and much more stable so i could actually push it harder thru those turns.

Missing the extra lap by 1 sec....damn i know how you feel I also was missing the extra lap my .9 sec then .4 sec consistently!!! It was driving me insane!!!! 14 10.00.9 then 14 10.00.4....
My setup was good too and I too was afraid to mess with it but if you wanna get that extra 1 sec you know what you gotta do ;)

rcharry,

Yeah your right if your track is rutted up with holes it is best to raise the ride height by adding the spaces.

[Spurdog28]

yes digital servos make noise

[rcharry]

alright thanks fearsome. Tommarow im going to my track and set it all up.

[not.enough.toys]

whats up everyone? I currently have a mugen xr and am debating whether or not to get the storm pro. The mugen is fine for me but change is always good, not to mention the mugen parts are SO expensive. I would like some opinions from people that have the storm pro.

1. What are the weak points ( frequently replaced parts )on the storm pro?

2. Are they easy to adjust ( shocks, ride height, etc. )

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

[rcharry]

Well the parts most people break i think is the wing mounts, front suspeension arms and rear hub carriers. Thats all i really know about.
And yes the pro is very easy to adjust and set up the way you need it.