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UberGamer256
11-07-2001, 12:41 AM
Hey!! Whats up guys? I have a Storm RTR and im getting the Pro soon.. ANyone else got these??

philjay822
11-07-2001, 07:24 AM
I think eveyone who has had one is now driving an MP-7.5 or MBX4-XR or Hyper 7. Ahhh, to live and learn.

UberGamer256
11-07-2001, 10:49 AM
Well you think wrong phil..

AnklBytr
11-17-2001, 06:22 PM
I was going to buy an OFNA but everyone says they're unreliable around here. Bummer. I heard that that Storm RTR is pretty good and comes with an excellent radio.

Was the RTR not good enough for ya? Why you going to the pro kit? Can't the RTR be upgraded?

Ankl

ryno
11-26-2001, 01:26 PM
Is there a website for gs. The buggy looks pretty good, but I would like to hear from someone who has atleast seen one in action.

StephenB
11-26-2001, 01:43 PM
There's a review of the Storm RTR in RC Nitro magazine & RCCA (look a few issues back) and the review for the Storm Pro will be in the upcoming March issue of RC Nitro. The car performs very well & is a great value for the price.

XMAN
11-26-2001, 02:15 PM
XMan, your post violates several of the forum rules. Please re-read the user agreement & have fun on the boards. Thanks.

UberGamer256
11-27-2001, 09:00 PM
I own the RTR and love it Ryno. Its fast, durable, and comes with a awesome radio for an awesome price. There is a website for it.. www.generalsilicones.com

10inchbuick
11-27-2001, 11:26 PM
For the money you can't beat the storm pro.I just bought one and love it .

smoky
11-30-2001, 07:55 PM
i was onerin if you guys could help me pick out some hp-ups for my storm rtr. im mostly looking for durability so i was thinkin about some of the aluminum stuf dynamite has. performance wise i was thinkin bout a new pipe for it . if you guys have any suggestios comment i would appreiciate it. thanks

UberGamer256
12-01-2001, 12:59 AM
Pipe.. RB 86. Alu stuff.... Torque Rods.. and Alu arm mounts. U can get more stuff if u want but those are the must haves.

TC3 Benjammin
12-04-2001, 12:56 PM
I'm thinking about buying a Storm. I only have experience in electric, so this would be my first nitro.

Is it hard to break in and run the engine? How are the instructions?

Also, I am interested in getting a 1/8 buggy, 'cause I hear they're the fastest off-road vehicles. How fast does the Storm go? Thanks for your help!

UberGamer256
12-04-2001, 06:21 PM
The engine is very powerful and very easy to tune. The Instructions are also excelent and it includes a free 4 way wrench with every car too.
The stock Storm RTR will go over 50MPH.. they can do over 60MPH with a good pro engine.

Altho the engine is not as powerful as say a top of the line RB.. it is VERY powerful for a sport engine!

Highly sugjest you get a storm :) Oh and heres a pic of my storm with new RB WS7..

gixxer
12-04-2001, 11:47 PM
50-60mph!! What clutch bell your running to achieve that. Usually the stock gearing is for out of the hole accelerations.

TC3 Benjammin
12-05-2001, 12:33 PM
Sweet! That is the type of performance I am after. Because I have never owned a nitro, I'm kinda scared of the engine break in and maintenance. Do the instructions give you all the info needed to do this properly? Thanks a lot for your help and for the pic.

TC3 Benjammin
12-05-2001, 02:57 PM
I have been shopping around and have found some good deals on the Storm ARR. I already have an XR3 Radio (:) ), so I don't want to waste my money on the RTR.

I noticed that the ARR doesn't include an engine. Man, that SUCKS. What .21 engine would you guys recommend?

Do engines include instructions when you buy them?:confused:

UberGamer256
12-05-2001, 07:03 PM
Engines should always include instructions. WHat price range are u looking for for an engine? And does it need to be pullstart?

And for that im using a 15 tooth Mugen clutchbell.

TC3 Benjammin
12-05-2001, 07:32 PM
Originally posted by UberGamer256
Engines should always include instructions. WHat price range are u looking for for an engine? And does it need to be pullstart?

And for that im using a 15 tooth Mugen clutchbell.


I'm not really sure. I just want a fast, reliable engine. I have heard good things about O.S. engines. Which is better - pullstart or non-pullstart? Do I have to have a pullstart for the Storm? Also, I guess I would have to buy a starter box if I bought a non-pullstart engine, right?

Horizon Hobby has the ARR listed for around $330. I would like to spend around $400 if possible. What do you think?

Also, what other supplies and equipment will I need? Thanks a lot.:)

MBX-4er'
12-06-2001, 07:10 AM
If you want an awesome engine at a very good price, i think my lhs has some RB CE's in stock for about 115 bucks. That engine will last well over the 6 gallon mark and blow the doors off of any other sport engine. Also, if you vant tune it, find another hobby! But YES you will need a starter box, i can prolly get you a package deal(i work at my lhs) on the Storm, engine, and starter box for pretty cheap. let me know!

Jason

TC3 Benjammin
12-06-2001, 03:12 PM
Originally posted by MBX-4er'
If you want an awesome engine at a very good price, i think my lhs has some RB CE's in stock for about 115 bucks. That engine will last well over the 6 gallon mark and blow the doors off of any other sport engine. Also, if you vant tune it, find another hobby! But YES you will need a starter box, i can prolly get you a package deal(i work at my lhs) on the Storm, engine, and starter box for pretty cheap. let me know!

Jason

Do engines typically only last for 6 gallons of fuel? That can't be right.:confused:

MBX-4er'
12-06-2001, 04:44 PM
Most sport engines you will only get 3-4 useful gallons out of. The OS RZ's only have about 2 useful gallons in them for racing.

Jason

TC3 Benjammin
12-06-2001, 05:02 PM
Originally posted by MBX-4er'
Most sport engines you will only get 3-4 useful gallons out of. The OS RZ's only have about 2 useful gallons in them for racing.

Jason

I think I'll stick with electrics :( .

UberGamer256
12-06-2001, 06:16 PM
TC3.. if u run them rather rich u wioll get over 4 gallons per engine. Trust me.. thats ALOT more run time then u think... And when they get old u can just replace the piston and sleeve for 40-70$

TC3 Benjammin
12-06-2001, 06:19 PM
Originally posted by UberGamer256
TC3.. if u run them rather rich u wioll get over 4 gallons per engine. Trust me.. thats ALOT more run time then u think... And when they get old u can just replace the piston and sleeve for 40-70$

Yeah, I guess it is more than I thought. That little fuel tank couldn't hold too much nitro.

What do you think about this:

RB CE's in stock for about 115 bucks. That engine will last well over the 6 gallon mark and blow the doors off of any other sport engine.

UberGamer256
12-06-2001, 06:26 PM
All RB Engines are VERY Nice. The CE is a very good beginer engine for people that want performance. It isnt that widely used like there WS7 or C4 but is still a good engine. Go for it.

MBX-4er'
12-06-2001, 07:40 PM
Obviously its not as widely used as the RB C4 or RB WS7, but c'mon not everything wants an all out racing engine, although the C4 is fun tearing around fields with:D The CE is VERY easy to tune and will always start and atleast run, a very good thing if you ask me..:) Get the CE if you want a "ballistic" engine for only a tad over 100 bucks, btw, i garuntee you that you will be blown away by the speed and power of the engine, if you want a little more power w/o the hassle, get the RB CS.

Jason

UberGamer256
12-06-2001, 07:46 PM
Listen to Jason.. he knows what hes tlaking about :) Another engine with VERY good speed for a Stocker is the GS B01 engine.

TC3 Benjammin
12-06-2001, 11:00 PM
Thanks a lot for your help, guys. I'll keep you posted on my decision. MBX, I may be in touch with you on that engine thing.:)

traxxas-dude
12-15-2001, 07:17 PM
How much horsepower does the stock storm engine have? Just wondering! Thanks!

MBX-4er'
12-15-2001, 07:37 PM
Well, the engine is made by SH for GS, so expect it to run about the same as the 3 port SH engine.

Jason

traxxas-dude
12-16-2001, 02:52 PM
and how much is that?:confused:

MBX-4er'
12-16-2001, 03:11 PM
Megatech advertises around 2hp for it at 28000rpm's.

Jason

UberGamer256
12-16-2001, 08:04 PM
OMG!! I drove my WS7 for the first time full throttle yesterday.. I CAN NOT BELIVE HOW FAST IT IS! I also jumped this almost verticle jump at like 1/2 throttle several times.. landed on the nose from the 15 foot drop SEVERAL times.. didnt do a thing to the car.. also landed on the front tire and body several times.. this car RULES!

MBX-4er'
12-17-2001, 07:16 AM
Wait until you drop a C4 in that puppy;) Or maybe a Jp Black, now those engines are FAST!!

Jason

UberGamer256
12-17-2001, 06:50 PM
Man.. i dont even WANT a C4 after driving this.. i mean that would be jsut TOO FAST (and ps.. ive never called a rc car too fast before.. hehe)

smoky
12-20-2001, 01:25 PM
hey guys i just got a trinity receiver pack for my storm. i got the 1/8 off road hump. its kinda difficult gettin it to fit in the receiver box is this the right sizedpack for it? i was also wonderin if there is some kind of adapter to plug into the receiver or if im going to have to change the plugs all together.thanks for any help.

UberGamer256
12-20-2001, 01:39 PM
You can do one of two things.. Get a new power switch or change the plugs to JR batt plugs. As for geting it in... ya its a tight fit.. it helps to take the top half of the box off first tho. Hope that helps!

smoky
12-20-2001, 06:44 PM
a couple more questions for yas. first i lost my manual and i cant get one off the horizon site cause my webtv cant use the info. any other ideas? second was im lookin at a new pipe my question is do i have to buy a new manifold for it or can i use the old one for it? third is bout the alum parts it says the lower susp mounts are a set is that one set for al them or do you have to buy 2 sets one for front and back? same for the knuckle arms? what are the tourque rods to? thanks for all the help

UberGamer256
12-20-2001, 07:06 PM
Manual.. Call Horizon and see if they can get you one.
Pipe.. No u wont need a new manifold.. all u need is the pipe.
One set means for front OR rear. U can get both for all 4 mounts. As for the torque rods.. those are the alu bars that stiffen the chassis (they are tie rods on the rtr and ARR).

Hope this cleares that stuff up.

UberGamer256
12-20-2001, 07:09 PM
Heres some info on the Features of the Storm models.

GS Racing's Storm and Storm Pro Series 1/8th Scale Buggys

Feature List:

GS Storm RTR and ARR
Front Dust Protectors for CVD's
Front CVD's
New Servo Plate design
Hinge Pins use no e-clips, they use Set screws
Arms are Set on seperate Mounts from the Bulkhead
Vented Disc brakes
Rear Bumper
Thick Front Bumper
Spring type Antenna tube holder
Helical Cut Ring and Pinion Gears in the F/R diffs


GS Storm Pro (RTR and ARR features plus the following)
Teflon Coated 7075 Aluminum Main Chassis
Teflon Coated Shock bodys and Shock boots
7075 THICK Shock towers with MANY shock positions
7075 Aluminum Lower arm mounts
7075 Aluminum Radio tray posts
7075 Aluminum Steering Plate
7075 Aluminum Uper Arm Hinge Pin Holder
Hard Anodized Hub Set (4)
Quad Vented disc Brakes
Splash guards on both tank and disk brakes
Graphite Radio Tray
Graphite Front Support Brace
Graphite Center Diff plate
CVD's All Around
Alumium Front and Rear Torque Rods (Ladder bars)

Possibly More.. If i find them i will add them!

very low budget racer
12-21-2001, 11:46 AM
TC3, go to a local Hobby Town USA, the Storm is 500 RTR there, then sell the JR radio NIB for about 160, so u get it for 340 with an engine. Just my 2c.

smoky
12-22-2001, 01:08 AM
ok im lookin for hopups. first im lookin at alum parts such as shock towers radio tray but whydo they sell these as hopups when they are alredy alum is i just thicker or is there another difference. im looking for mostly durability. so im gettin the arm mounts and tourque rods anything else would help how would an alum diff mount help. performance wise i got a cvec pipe. im thinkin universals for the rear.any other suggestions besides a new motor. once again thanks youve been very helpful so far.

UberGamer256
12-22-2001, 01:26 AM
Smoky, The reason they have other parts is besause of two things. As with shock towers they have Thicker more durable (7075 as oppsoed to 6061) with more mounting holes. As for other parts.. defenatly get the arm mounts and the rods. Also look into the new Fioroni bulkhead brace. And CVD's would help performance some too.

Also.. the normal question.. Do you have AIM or MSN messanger?

Hope this info helps you Smoky! Any other stuff you need.. just ask (or e-mail..)!

smoky
12-22-2001, 01:33 AM
do u have a link for floroni or an online shop that carys ther products. have msn to conact me use smokey215@webtv.net

UberGamer256
12-22-2001, 01:40 AM
Ya i shure do :) http://www.fioroni.com Might need to use a translator tho. As for shop... try contacting GS USA. They can point you to a shop that retails them.

tmaxxbasher
12-23-2001, 07:45 AM
cheapest place to buy a storm rtr

UberGamer256
12-23-2001, 02:43 PM
tmaxxbasher: Alfies Hobby House. 1 360 533 6638 they are closed Sun and Mon. If u call ask for Alfie. Tell him Ross sent ya.

CannedHeat
12-24-2001, 10:57 AM
I am new to 1/8 scale buggies and I am trying to figure out which buggy to purchase. I have seen an ad for the Storm Pro but would like input about this car from people that actually own one.
It looks like you might be able to use this car for racing. I was also thinking about a Mugen MBXR. I am looking for durability and the possibility of taking it to some races. I already have a reliable futaba magnum junior radio but saw that the RTR came with a decent radio. I guess I am just confused....which one would you recommend??

Thanks

INFERN06
12-25-2001, 06:41 PM
How does that Fioroni part mount on the car exactly?Does it aid the rear shock tower mount?I hope I can get it in red to match my factory shock tower color.(yes mine came from the factory in red)

UberGamer256
12-25-2001, 07:37 PM
CannedHeat.. go with the Pro if your going to do racing.

Inferno... It replaces the brace holder and also sits above it so that you can screw into it thru the tower mounts. Its a one peice deal. Est Price is about $25 and will be avalible soon. www.fioroni.com for a picture.

INFERN06
12-25-2001, 07:57 PM
I saw the pic and was wondering when someone would make that part as the rear bulkhead is weak at the rear wingstay mount.If the mold for the tranny case would have had ears on the side to mount the shock tower to that problem would have been solved.I have seen them break at that point twice now.
I gotta have one of those parts before the next season starts.

UberGamer256
12-25-2001, 08:29 PM
Ya its got holes for a mount like that already. Its the only big flaw i can see with the Storm. As for preventing it.. you can help by lowering the wing to the bottom 2 mount holes.. not the top 2. That will make the wing mount into the bulkhead and woudl have less leverage if it ever wanted to rip out. You may need to drill the top holes in a little more on the wing mounts tho.

INFERN06
12-25-2001, 09:08 PM
It seems to be the only flaw I see at all with this car as it handles better than my buddies 7.5 and is just as fast as any other top end car out there.

steele6599
01-04-2002, 03:26 PM
My rear bulk head broke last weekend... This seems common with everyone’s. I think GS should redesign this part or provide the Fioroni fix for free...

Other than that I'm very happy with the Storm. But I would like to find someone that makes a body for it. :)

Also, it would be nice if Fioroni would finish there construction for the English site. (I didn't learn enough Italian watching Godfather or the Sopranos...) :D

Now we just need a monster truck from GS?:D

Regards,
Markus

steele6599
01-06-2002, 02:02 PM
Hey guys I got a Storm RTR and looking to upgrade what hopups have you all installed?

What parts are compatible with other makes?

Where can I get new bodies for my Storm other than GS?
Like ProLine

What kinda odf setups do you have?

Pictures?

Wheels?

Thanks,
Markus

UberGamer256
01-06-2002, 02:17 PM
The Crowd Pleazer for the 7.5 wil fit the Storm. As for the bulkhead.. try not to land on the wing.. works for me.

GS Storm MT is coming soon. And you can translate the fironi website with babblefish (altavista.com).

I will post in a little while to your other post. Shower time...

UberGamer256
01-06-2002, 02:55 PM
Ok, not many other parts are compatable with it because its not very much of a copy as some idiots think it is.

On mine i have the following things,
Dynamite Radio/Servo Plate
Dynamite Front Brace
Dynamite Lower Arm Mounts
and GS Rear Alu Torque Rod

Stuff i have that i need to install is the front set of lower arm mounts (waiting on NON-BENT hingepins.. LOL) and alu radio trey posts.

Stuff i have ordered that will be on the car next week is,
Dynamite Front Shock tower
Dynamite Rear Shock tower
GS Performance Shock kit for the rear (my shocks are messed up)
GS Front Alu Torque Rod
and a Mugen 14tooth Clutch bell

From there you can find some stuff you might be interested in for your own ride. Im running the stock tires on stock rims, and a set of Kyosho pins on stock rims.

I dont have any real recent pics.. but heres this one..

tmaxxbasher
01-06-2002, 07:18 PM
hey i'm new to 1/8th scale buggies and i was thinking about getting the storm pro,because i want a buggy that i can build myself. Does the pro need tires and wheels

steele6599
01-06-2002, 10:07 PM
Thanks UberGamer256,

What do you think of the Fioroni aluminum A arms? Broke my rear one this moring jumping about 4 feet and landing directly on one wheel used super glue and will drive it on the road until my parts come in...

Should of it broke? it might have something to do with being cold outside about 40F.

How are the Dynamite parts did you get them from Horizon Hobby?

Oh, how do you have your engine tuned?

How many turns out for each needle?

Thanks again,
steele6599

steele6599
01-07-2002, 09:03 AM
What do you guys know about the GS MT truck?

Pictures?

Arrival date?

Thanks,

UberGamer256
01-07-2002, 12:26 PM
That arm should not have broken... It would have nothing to do with the weather.. because i run my Storm in 40-50degree weathewr all the time and never break anything. To tell you the thruth.. that the first time ive heard of an arm breaking.

The Fioroni Alu Arms would also just lead to more problems by causing other things to break.

The Dynamite Parts are VERY nice.. those two parts i have are at least a mm thicker then stock. Plus they are 7075 so they are VERY durable. I also love the color. Im very impressed with the quality of the Dynamite stuff. And i did get them From Horizon (at least.. my LHS did :)

I run my RB WS7 now. Im not shure what the needle settings are but i belive its out of tune right now so. Basicly if you want a good starting point.. put the low end and high end at flush with the peices they sit in.


As for the GS Storm MT... Only one pic and its from a old RCCA, i can look for it later if i have time and scan it for you.

Arival date should be anytime from Summer to Winter 2002, No real date is set yet.

UberGamer256
01-07-2002, 12:30 PM
Oh and Basher.. the Pro kit will need Tires and Wheels along with shock oil and diff fluids as they decided these are best left to the choice of the racer (so you dont get crappy tires with the kit that doesnt work and end up throwing away $40-$60 :) It does include some base lines for what types of oil to use though.

steele6599
01-08-2002, 08:50 PM
Thanks UberGamer256,

When I broke my suspension arm I must have lost my dogbone with it (Started raining hard). I'm thinking of using CVD Dynamite brand. What do you think about them?

I will probably buy the reaer first this month and the front next month $40.00 a pair and only $100.00 a month budget for RC.

Were can we get Fioroni parts? I was wondering if there CVD are cheaper?

I will also be buying the alluminum suspension mounts.

Hey does anyone know what parts I need to upgrade to 4 disk brakes like the pro?

What wheels do you all recomend?

What other items should I buy to strengthen my RTR?

I have already gone through a rear suspension arm and rear bulk head.:(


Thanks,
Markus

UberGamer256
01-08-2002, 09:04 PM
Jeez.. lost of stuff to answer.. o well here we go...

I have not seen nor used the Dynamite CVDs yet so i dont know about them. I might try them someday. As for the front.. It already has CVDS man! Dont you know your own car?! LOL!

Fioroni will be avalible at your LHS, National RC is one of them, or through GS Racing ( i belive... call them for more info)
Prices and info on FIoroni is avalible at www.generalsilicones.com under the Fioroni Image.

For 4 Disc breaks you will need longer screws.. another set of two disc rotors.. another 4 pads and another 4 calipers. I cna get you part numbers if you would like.

Wheels? Any will do. If you want Maxximum strienght.. go for Dish rims.. other then that pretty much any 17MM rims will work.

Other things... Torque rods... New Shock towers... and maybe Alu center diff mounts...

If ya need anything else.. ask!

steele6599
01-09-2002, 08:28 AM
Doh, Your right about the CVD in the front... :p

I will be ordering the rear CVD and wheels and Torque rods.

What engine are you running?

Thanks,
Markus

UberGamer256
01-09-2002, 10:54 AM
RB Concept Worlds S7

steele6599
01-10-2002, 01:57 PM
Do you think upgrading the brakes will make a big difference?

My car seems to stop now with tremendous force allready? The wheels definetly lock up for sure?

What are the part numbers if you don't mind me asking?

Thanks,
Markus

AUTOSEAR
01-10-2002, 03:05 PM
I just purchased a new Storm RTR. I have been out of the RC game for about 10 years. This is my first experience with 1/8 scale and only my 2nd nito car. I love this thing. I had another police officer clock this thing one night in a parking lot. The result however was only 31MPH. I really believed it was capable of doing more than that…

UberGamer256
01-10-2002, 06:33 PM
It was probably running wrong because of the tune. Once it is tuned better it will do 40+ no problem.

G@vin
01-12-2002, 11:36 AM
hi l just got my storm last week:)
And l was just thinking about changing the Tune Pipe dose anyone know which one works best ''or shell l just leave it alone..
thanx
G@vin

UberGamer256
01-12-2002, 04:48 PM
Any NovaRossi or RB pipes would work great. Also the Dyanmite Compeition pipe is nice so i hear.

StephenB
01-12-2002, 11:25 PM
Ross, have you read my review of the Pro in the current March '01 Nitro magazine?

UberGamer256
01-12-2002, 11:31 PM
Not yet Bess.. I want too tho!!!!

gkcontra
01-13-2002, 04:03 PM
Bess,
Great article. Read it this morning, been waitin' on it. Hope to get together at J's sometime.

Greg

steele6599
01-16-2002, 09:30 AM
where can I get the Fioroni bulkhead brace or any Fioroni parts for that matter?

Thanks,
Markus

steele6599
01-16-2002, 11:16 AM
Hey guys,

I just bought the following parts: :)

LOWER SUSP ARM HOLDER SET:STORM (DYN7807)

REAR LOWER SUSPENSION ARM: STORM (GSCST014)

REAR SWING SHAFT: STORM (GSCST024)

FRONT LOWER SUSPENSION ARM: STORM (GSCST015)

THERMAL GRIP COUPLER TIES, (6) (DYN2259)

LIGHTNING LINE, NEON RED,3' (DYN2440)

FRONT STIFFENER PLATE-7075: STORM (DYN7804)

REAR SHOCK TOWER-7075: STORM (DYN7803)

FRONT SHOCK TOWER-7075: STORM (DYN7802)

I should have them this Friday... I hope we have nice weather this weekend here in Virginia...

Markus

G@vin
01-16-2002, 12:34 PM
hi
can someone please tell what are the best settings for the high-speed needle 'on my RTR...

big thanks
G@vin

UberGamer256
01-16-2002, 06:41 PM
Cool Steele! Hey Gavin.. it can range a whole turn in differant climates. I ran mine at 2 turns out i THINK.. if i remember. THere really is no "Best needle setting" for everywhere.. it depends on a 100 factors..

StephenB
01-16-2002, 11:13 PM
Greg, thanks---glad you liked the writeup! Do you race at J's? I won't be there this weekend (racing in Dallas), but will be there the next couple of weekends racing in the club races. Have we met?

steele6599
01-18-2002, 09:19 AM
Got my parts:D

It only took one day to arrive. I started installing parts last night but having problems removing the two top screws from the server saver arms. I think they put to much loctite on them. I was able to get one screw off but the other is going to require the use of my dremel to put a notch in it to remove the stripped screw. :(

The Dynamite parts are much stronger and nicer looking you can tell that the RTR parts are pressed and the Dynamite parts are milled and at least 1mm thicker. Both of my shock towers were already warped from bashing. my chassis is also a little bent from when I broke my rear suspension arm.

Next I will get the chassis and center diff mount. Does anyone know if Dynamite makes torque rods? I want the red scheme for my storm... :D

What shocks do you all recommend?

What wheels and tires for bashing?

How much difference do the upgraded steering knuckles make?


When does the new issue of Nitro hit the news stand?

Thanks,
Markus

us_matrix
01-18-2002, 06:03 PM
Hey stormer?

I got a GS Strom RTR and just wondering what is the most easier parts will break? Just want to buy a spare to keep in stock in case if it happens? (Any better upgarde version)

UberGamer256
01-18-2002, 06:25 PM
Here we go again...

Go with the GS Storm Pro chassis. Its alot nicer and is teflon coated.

Dynamite does not make Torque rods but Fioroni and GS do (the GS ones are AWESOME).

Use the RTR shocks till you beat them up.. then get the Pro Shock kits. They are differant color and one peice alu caps.

Most Treadz tires and Medial Pros are good. They last a LONG time... Stay away from the Ofna tires.. wear is much faster.

The knuckles barely ever break.. having the aftermarker ones are more of a "Just in case" type thing.

The March Issue of RC Nitro is out right now.

Hope that helps! Damn i am good at this stuff ;) hehe

UberGamer256
01-18-2002, 06:29 PM
Matrix... First of all check out this link.. http://www.teamurc.com/lit/bulkhead.html

As for parts to keep.. get a set or two of Lower Arm Mounts (Part # GSCST016) and possibly a Bulkhead. Thats about it.

us_matrix
01-18-2002, 07:14 PM
Hey Gamer!


You are really a PRO of these things.

Thanks.

UberGamer256
01-18-2002, 07:20 PM
Thanks! Hopefully Garen will hire me.. Altho Sponsorship will be nice :) LOL

SuperMaxx 21
01-20-2002, 08:54 PM
you could another Jared Tebo lol

UberGamer256
01-20-2002, 09:53 PM
Thats what im hopein for :)

us_matrix
01-21-2002, 12:33 PM
Hi,

GS Storm 1/8 RTR stock engine, I had hard time to pull start the engine but when i was able to start the engine, Idle was good but when i tried to step on gas its died right away. I tried many time w/ hard start the engine (Pull many times to start engine) but it died right away as soon as i step on gas.

What is the problem casuing this the car hard to start and its died as soon as it step on Gas? High end or Low end or idle screw problem?
I set high end between 2 1/2 to 3 turns but no idea how to set low end needle? (Clockwise or Counter clockwise to set please )

UberGamer256
01-21-2002, 02:13 PM
Ok, this is rather simple. You high end is to rich. Lean it out 1/4 turn and try that. If that doesnt work.. try another 1/4 turn. If you still cant get it started replace your glow plug.

steele6599
01-21-2002, 03:23 PM
What glow plugs are recomended for the RTR? How fast do they burn out?

Do Starter Boxes make it easier to start a buggy comapred to a pull start? I broke the string yesterday? Fixing it was a pain :(


Thanks,
Markus

UberGamer256
01-21-2002, 07:52 PM
Glow plugs range for your weather and tempatures. Best plugs tend to be RB, McCoy, and OS. I run in very humid, 40-60degree weather and seems like the McCoy MC-59's and RB #6 plugs work well.

A Starter box will make it easyer to start but the downside is lugging one around.

steele6599
01-22-2002, 08:22 AM
I thought all you storm owners would be interested in this site:
hexcrews.com
They have a kit that replaces all the sucky phillips head screws with Hex Screws. $29.95

Last week I a had to dremel a scew off because it stripped so bad... too much loctite...

I will be getting these...

Markus

us_matrix
01-22-2002, 04:17 PM
Hi,

I am very confuse about that. I talked to GS Storm support (said 7 turns from closed positon but Horizon hobby (said 2 turns from closed positon)
I mess up the low end setting and want to switch it back to default.
Anyone knows?

UberGamer256
01-22-2002, 06:29 PM
matrix... unscrew it so its flush with the housing.

E MANN 2k1
01-31-2002, 09:24 PM
i am planning on gettin a storm rtr any problems to look out 4? what r th yays and nays (pros and cons to all yall nawthern folk IM NEW

UberGamer256
02-01-2002, 12:09 AM
EMan.. read thru this thread and the several magazine articles and you should find the info you need. If not.. jsut say so and i will post up some info (to lazy to tonight.. lol lots of homework).

UberGamer256
02-01-2002, 11:00 PM
OK Storm guys.. PLEASE goto http://www.teamurc.com and vote on the new poll. Gary Kipp from Kippster racing is interested in if people will buy rear bulkhead braces from him for the Storm! Please.... go... Feedback is needed!

rc/guitarman69
02-02-2002, 02:01 PM
Hey guys iam getting a gs storm next week sometime its in the mail. I bought it used its got a Novarossi in it and comes with the thunder tiger to. What should i do as for frist hopups and so on? What shock oil should i use wt ? Ill be raceing! Where can i find some good info on it? Please post or email me its in my profile or pm me or im me Probumguitarman is my im name on aol. I would love to chat with you buggy owners and get some tips. I know a lot about 1/10th trucks and other stuff just new to buggys! Later!:D

UberGamer256
02-02-2002, 02:16 PM
Congrats on your new car! You will LOVE IT! (If ya dont.. please tell us)

Now onto your questions..

Shock Oil? The stock oil will be fine as a base point for the Sport cars. Are you getting the Pro? Or the ARR/RTR? Pretty much use 30-35 all around. Generally a little softer in the rear.

First Hopups? Get Alu lower arm mounts (GS and Dyn both make them.. ask me if you need part numbers), Fioroni (or possibly Kippster Racing, if he decided to make them) Bulkhead brace (not in stock at GS yet.. will be soon though), and lastly.. Alu front and rear torque rods (again.. ask for part numbers if needed).

Sites with info.. http://www.generalsilicones.com is being updated.. not much there.. YET. Try http://www.twf8.ws , www.sgrid.com (sign up for the Confrences and go read the offroad conf), and the forums at http://www.teamurc.com < My site :)

Ask if ya want more help!

ryno
02-10-2002, 11:21 PM
How fast will the rtr go. how much faster would it go with say a os rz.

UberGamer256
02-10-2002, 11:33 PM
Hey Ryno! The stock speed will be about 45-50MPH. It would be pretty much same speed with an OS RG cause they are both Sport engines. Hope this helps ya!

StephenB
02-10-2002, 11:51 PM
Ross, the Storm RTR will more likely run between 40-45mph max. The gearing & rev limitations of the RTR engine limit it to that. Check out my "Fast Math" article in the April '02 Nitro magazine to calcuate LOTS of gearing/speed related things :D Just didn't want someone to be disappointed if their RTR Storm didn't hit 50.

UberGamer256
02-10-2002, 11:53 PM
I said About 45-50 Bess :) With a 14tooth it would hit 50.. Im pretty shure of that... Anyway.. its FAST!! LOL

StephenB
02-10-2002, 11:57 PM
Listen jerkey--- :p You said "in stock form it should hit 45-50." It comes stock with a 13t bell. Need I say more?? :D :p

UberGamer256
02-11-2002, 01:35 AM
Alright BESSY :D LOL

UberGamer256
02-11-2002, 01:41 AM
Alright BESSY :D LOL

Bluefire
02-16-2002, 01:59 PM
Has anyone found that the storm has a problem stripping out the gears in the diffs? I currently don't own a storm, but I'm thinking of buying one. I saw a post on ebay with a guy selling a strom. He, lock the center diff. so that it wouldn't strip the gear. This sounds kind of wierd (not to mention a pretty poor sales pitch), but I wanted to get some of your thoughts.

UberGamer256
02-16-2002, 02:03 PM
The Stipping of Diffs is an OLD issue. In some of the original kits they included the wrong shims so after heavy use the diff gears started to deteriorate. It was fixed on the production line and they sent out free diff gears and outdrives to everyone that had problems.

Mustang/Chevy Killer
02-16-2002, 02:47 PM
i purchased my rtr storm in june and i love it. it's basically stock except for the shock oil(50 wt.) and some yellow springs. i also use byron 20% fuel and a hump pack from racers edge. one gripe i have about the storm is the pull start string. man that thing is chincy and i've went through 2 of them already. i also live in the northeast so my usage is kinka limited. is there any other kinda pull start i can use that will outlast the stock one? also while cleaning my storm i've noticed that all the turnbucles were out of length. i also recommend buying the storm rtr if you have any other vehicles cause it's a cheap way to have another radio in a car by buying a receiver, especially for a tmaxx. any info on the pull start string would be greatly appreciated and i hope you enjoy your storm.

UberGamer256
02-16-2002, 02:58 PM
Invest some money and get an Ofna Blue starter box. No more yankin' :)

redsmurfhat
02-18-2002, 05:15 PM
Hey UberGamer, is there an easy way to tell if you have one of the "old" kits with the wrong shims, or the newer kit with the fix? I just got it and would rather take care of everything now before I destroy my gears! It's got the red sticker on the bottom right side of the box that says it's "80% assembled" if this helps.

UberGamer256
02-18-2002, 05:22 PM
Is it brand new and did your LHS just get it? If so it doesnt need the kit.

If your unshure.. look at the chassis.. if it is semi textured and a light blue.. its new and doesnt need the kit. If it has a dark purple and shiny chassis then it needs to be upgraded.

Another way to find out is to open the diff. If on the end of the bars (on the spyder gears) there are BLACK shims, it is the old version. If the shims are Gold or copper color they are new.

Hope that helps!

redsmurfhat
02-18-2002, 05:34 PM
It's brand new, but an older box I got off of e-bay, so I wasn't sure. I'll check it out, Thanks! P.S. If it is the older one, can I send the old parts in on an exchange for the newer ones?

UberGamer256
02-18-2002, 05:39 PM
Call Horizon for the Kit info. You will msot likely just have to send in a few gears.

Linkin Park fan
02-18-2002, 08:47 PM
where is the cheapest place to get the pro(besides ebay if there is one)?????? i guess that 429.99 isn't that bad at horizon, but im only 12 and i want one.(kind of a bad reason....but they interest me)







Thanx lInKiN PaRk fAn

smoky
02-19-2002, 05:56 PM
hey guys i need some help. i got the dynamite front steering knuckles. im trying to install them but i cant for the life of me get the bearings out of the old knuckles to put in the new ones. any suggestions or tips? well thanks for the help.

INFERN06
02-20-2002, 04:40 AM
I can't think of why you would want to go with something else for steering knuckles ,the stock ones are great.But if you must you can heat the knuckles to release the bearings from them on an oven element or with a propane torch,even just tapping them out gently with a screw driver from the inside would do it.

kedar
02-26-2002, 09:55 AM
i've got a question for your GS Storm Pro guys, i am trying to setup a quad brake disk on my HPI NMT. the problem is that i am getting some binding.

here is a pic:
http://www.kedar.itgo.com/quadbrakestop.JPG

more here: http://www.kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html#quad

b/c of the limited space on the outdrive i am unable to use a brake plate between the 2 brake disks (like the GS Storm Pro, so i just run a single homemade fiber pad b/w the disks). is the space between the disks and fiber pads supposed to be as tight as possible? how do you guys setup your quad brakes? can anyone scan the instructions of the GS Storm Pro quad brakes? thanks, any help is greatly appreciated.

Jungle
02-27-2002, 12:39 PM
Getting my new Storm RTR tomorrow!!! Can't wait to play with it.

Any secret break-in tips beyond the instructions? My LHS was ragging in the RTR saying I would have to rebuild the diff's after about a tank of fuel or they would ruin!! But, this was after months of telling how great it was (while they had it in stock!) Maybe it's true, but I didn't fall for it since he was trying to get me to buy a Storm Pro instead (he got one in stock that morning). Do they not use the same diff's?

INFERN06
02-27-2002, 02:40 PM
While it is true that they use the same diffs the new kits that just hit the shelves have stronger gears.I have heard the old ones will turn to butter quickly.This may be a rumor but I have heard GS will exchange your originals or just send you new gears that are harder and shimmed properly.The problem is the gears are not shimmed correctly from factory.If you re-shim them yourself you may have better luck.:)

UberGamer256
02-27-2002, 07:31 PM
WHY must rumors be spread? Im started to understand what Garen told me A LONG time ago... Anyway..

The diff gears in all Storms are the same as they were and have always been this way. Its not the gears. The original kits had a problem with the wrong type of shims (ive compared them both side by side.. they are barely differant.). It was corrected.. released new diffs in new kits.. and sent out new shims, outdrives, and gears for free to all that requested it.

It is a past problem and i would like ppl to forget it.. not to spread rumors like "I think the GS stripps diffs alot" or "The gears suck"... Thanks [End Rant]

INFERN06
02-28-2002, 02:01 AM
Like I said a rumor.Just re-shim it and your good to go.

redsmurfhat
02-28-2002, 02:42 PM
I recently contacted GS Racing about replacing the old black shims in my kit, and they told me to contact Horizon Hobbies and take it up with them... Horizon Hobbies said that since I don't have a receipt to prove that I bought the thing (got it NIB off of e-bay) there is nothing they can do. What the hell?!? All I need are the new gold shims... I'd be more than willing to send the black ones in for a replacement! Can anyone help? Is there some other washer that I can use to replace the wrong shims? You'd think that since this is a known problem, they would be more than willing to help since it was their mistake in the first place. Also, why did they change the chassis in the new kits? Mine is a smooth purple and the new ones are textured blue. Not a big deal, just wondering. Can you give me some advice UberGamer or anyone? Thanks all!

redsmurfhat
02-28-2002, 02:49 PM
One more question... I've never had an already built kit before and have always put them together myself. The diffs as they come from GS are greased, but are not filled with oil. I plan on filling them with diff oil, but was wondering if I should clean out all of the grease first? I assumed that the oil may get contaminated somehow by the grease, but if it won't hurt anything, I'll just fill them up and not worry about it. Any advise on this? Man... I really don't like RTRs... it just takes twice as long to get them ready since you have to take everything apart first before putting it back together again. I'd much rather put it together from little baggies myself! Maybe I'm just **** retentive and don't trust anyone else to put my stuff together, but this is only an opinion afterall. ;)

us_matrix
02-28-2002, 02:52 PM
Hi all stormer PRO,

I have a GS Storm RTR and trying to install throttle return spring. (My storm lost control last few weeks ago and jump over a 8 feet fence in full speed, luckily did not hurt anyone and just broke the lower suspension arm and loss the dog bone)
I bought the TeamLosi return spring. I tried installed it but was not able to mount it correctly. Did you guys install return spring on it? Do you guys have any pic that you can show me how you install it on your Storm? Any information will be very appreciated.

Thanks.

cosborn71
02-28-2002, 05:53 PM
redsmurfhat, I'm the same way about rtr. The only reason I got the storm rtr was it was what my lhs had and it was a very good deal. Anyway, I assume you are talking about the bulkhead, and not the actual diff guts (my guts have fluid in them, not grease) when you say you want to fill it. My advice is clean the ring and pinion to remove as much grease as possible and the use some rtv on the bulhead surfaces to seal them up, otherwise you will have a nice mess.

UberGamer256
02-28-2002, 06:32 PM
Originally posted by redsmurfhat
I recently contacted GS Racing about replacing the old black shims in my kit, and they told me to contact Horizon Hobbies and take it up with them... Horizon Hobbies said that since I don't have a receipt to prove that I bought the thing (got it NIB off of e-bay) there is nothing they can do. What the hell?!? All I need are the new gold shims... I'd be more than willing to send the black ones in for a replacement! Can anyone help? Is there some other washer that I can use to replace the wrong shims? You'd think that since this is a known problem, they would be more than willing to help since it was their mistake in the first place. Also, why did they change the chassis in the new kits? Mine is a smooth purple and the new ones are textured blue. Not a big deal, just wondering. Can you give me some advice UberGamer or anyone? Thanks all!

Call them again and ask for a differant person... tech support is like this sometimes... lol. They will let ya send in your gears... ya just gotta get someone on who knows something ;) About the chassis.. the old (purple) one is 5051.. not very rigid. The new ones are 6061 and are more durable.. as some ppl complained about bending the chassis'.

UberGamer256
02-28-2002, 06:39 PM
Originally posted by cosborn71
redsmurfhat, I'm the same way about rtr. The only reason I got the storm rtr was it was what my lhs had and it was a very good deal. Anyway, I assume you are talking about the bulkhead, and not the actual diff guts (my guts have fluid in them, not grease) when you say you want to fill it. My advice is clean the ring and pinion to remove as much grease as possible and the use some rtv on the bulhead surfaces to seal them up, otherwise you will have a nice mess.

If ya remove greese from the ring and pinion.. make shure to put some back! You will have some problems if ya dont.. :)

UberGamer256
02-28-2002, 06:46 PM
Originally posted by redsmurfhat
One more question... I've never had an already built kit before and have always put them together myself. The diffs as they come from GS are greased, but are not filled with oil. I plan on filling them with diff oil, but was wondering if I should clean out all of the grease first? I assumed that the oil may get contaminated somehow by the grease, but if it won't hurt anything, I'll just fill them up and not worry about it. Any advise on this? Man... I really don't like RTRs... it just takes twice as long to get them ready since you have to take everything apart first before putting it back together again. I'd much rather put it together from little baggies myself! Maybe I'm just **** retentive and don't trust anyone else to put my stuff together, but this is only an opinion afterall. ;)


lol. For whieghts.. try 1000 rear.. 7000 center and 5000 front. If ya need oil get the GS stuff (yes... its expensive.. but it kicks a@@ and is in VERY VERY nice bottles.. i love the stuff).

As for the greese ... i just clean the gears with a towel.. and try to clean the case soemwhat. Dont worry if there is still some greese in it.. wont hurt it at all.

Lemmie know if ya need anything else.

redsmurfhat
02-28-2002, 07:09 PM
Hey cosborn, your diffs came filled with fluid? Man, that's weird... Mine were only packed with grease, and GS even said that the diffs came without fluid and you would have to buy your own. I guess grease is better than nothing, but I've always used diff oil in the past and see no reason to change now. Plus your acceleration will be much better! UberGamer, that sucks about the chassis! I will probably get an aftermarket chassis soon anyway, so it's really not a big deal. Who should I call back, GS or Horizon? Maybe I'll just sell it and get the PRO! :D Anyone need a new Storm? ;)

UberGamer256
02-28-2002, 07:18 PM
The chassis comes in the kit... free. The best aftermarket chassis is the Pro chassis.

cosborn71
02-28-2002, 10:17 PM
yeah I know ya need fluid in the bulkhead if you remove the grease. Just thought everybody else knew that;)

you say yours came with grease? when did you get it? mine is not that old. bought it like last november I think. maybe the guy assembling mine didn't follow directions and 100 kits got fluid and I got lucky. Who knows, can never tell with things made in taiwan. that is why I had to take it apart and then put it back together before I drove it. When I took the car out of the box, the front wheels had like 7 degrees toe out. and they say it comes ready to race!? still a sweet car though. just needs an american touch.

cosborn71
02-28-2002, 10:20 PM
or north american (refering to the continent) for our canadian friends.

StephenB
02-28-2002, 11:40 PM
Cosborn----save yourself the embarassment & fill the DIFFS with silicone...NOT the bulkheads. I know a guy who did that once, and it was beyond funny. :p

UberGamer256
03-01-2002, 12:20 AM
LOL Bess!!!!

INFERN06
03-01-2002, 03:05 AM
Yep Fill the front with the thick stuff and change them shims,I run OFNA diff-Loc fliud in the fron (I like it like that for steering) 20,00 mugen rear,and 50,000 in the middle.And I got the pro so it has the Canadian(North American ) touch.:cool:

cosborn71
03-01-2002, 07:34 AM
I don't fill the bulkheads, but if somebody wants to, then I won't tell them not to. My DIFFs are filled with fluid, not the bulkhead. but some people, not myself, like to cut the diff casing apart and fill the bulhead like a diff on a full size car. I don't do that (have never and never will), but like I said, some people like to.

cosborn71
03-01-2002, 07:42 AM
as I learned in my undergrad engineering days... assumptions make an A*! out of you and me: assume->a*! u me. (no offense meant, just a joke):D

StephenB
03-01-2002, 11:20 PM
Cosborn, I was just responding to YOUR post above...scroll up & read what you typed in. You said you needed fluid in the bulkhead if you take out the grease :p

cosborn71
03-02-2002, 10:45 AM
thats b/c the only greased parts on my storm were the ring and pinion. If they don't get any lube, then they will get hot and destroy themselves. I also said that I wasn't talking about the diff cavity like you guys think. remember, there are two cavities associated with a diff, the bulkhead and the spyder gears, and both need lubrication. but you knew that. anyway, enough about trying to figure out what was said. I think we cleared the issue up.:)

kedar
03-02-2002, 12:48 PM
hey guys, can i please get some input on how you're supposed to setup the quad brakes?

do your brake plates slide on screws? and the threads don't interfere? how tight are the screws supposed to be? you guys don't have any binding?

kedar
03-05-2002, 11:20 AM
hey guys, did i scare you away from this thread? c'mon give me a hand and tell me how you're supposed to setup the quad brake disks. i'm curious as to what GS Racing says about the length of the screw for the space between the brake plates.

i'm askin' about the brakes here, and not some random foreign part. anyone w/ a GS Storm Pro should be able to answer my questions. so how about it? gonna give me a hand?

INFERN06
03-05-2002, 03:31 PM
you do it the same as if there were only two discs,just longer screws and extra plates.You may also want to get the splash guard for the front discs.The brake lever should have 1/4" of play from center to lock to give sufficent braking leverage so adjust the disc plate screws to get this.The plates should not bind on the threads of the screws unless you are using larger than recommended screws that fit tightly into the plates(this is bad).Just use the same thread screws you have but 4mm longer than the stock ones.
Enjoy.:D

ifly
03-20-2002, 10:27 PM
on the final drive (pinion and crown) in the diffs, how many are on the pinion and how many on the crown?

also how many testh are on the spur and cluch bell?

Killer87
04-20-2002, 12:26 PM
the clutch bell is 13t and the spur i think is 48t

Killer87
04-21-2002, 12:01 PM
is anyone on this thread besides me?

tHe cOokIe
05-31-2002, 06:53 PM
how much is the storm rtr? is there anything bad about? stuff that breaks? whats good? how is it on the street? offroad?jumping? bashing?racing?

is it worth however much it is?

Killer87
05-31-2002, 09:55 PM
RTR will run $549 at horizon but you can get them for $499 at one of the hobby shops in houston.

Everything is fine about the car except with the first few models(not too many of them) there were defective gears but you can get a replacement kit. You can't get one with defective gears unless you buy it used though.

Some people have had problems with the rear bulkhead breaking but not me. Also the clutch bell isn't very good so it wears quickly.

Otherwise it's pretty competitive in racing and it handles all offroad conditions.

It also is good for bashing because the engine is pretty fast and it can handle a bunch of crashes(depending on how bad they are).

Hope that helps.

erik :) :cool:

CyberISda
06-06-2002, 01:24 PM
hi all! Any Idea where i can buy the backplate for the engine that comes with the RTR? Part number would be great. I wanted to remove the pull start.

Thanks a lot!! :)

us_matrix
06-07-2002, 06:16 PM
You can get the backplate and O ring from Horizon hobby.
Just do a serach and you will see it.

http://www.horizon.com


Let me know how it goes. (I am thinknig about to do that too.)

james1vx
06-14-2002, 06:31 PM
im new here and have just gotten a storm aewsome car,does any one know of anyother bodies that will fit?

UberGamer256
06-20-2002, 12:12 AM
James.. the stock body and the Pro-Line 7.5 crowd pleazer fit the Storm.

I recived my Storm Pro a few days ago guys.. got it all assembled.. and it is AWESOME. The new plastic and uper arms are GREAT! Virtually NO flex in the front suspention.. and little flex in the rear. The bulkheads are reinforced now too with new shock towers and mounts.

The kit is awesome.. easy to put together. Only iunstalling problems were the engine mount screws (cap heads) are a few MM to long for the Pro mounts.. and the steering bellcrank needs a few shims. Thats all found in your toolbox though unless your new to Racing :D

GS.. Simply.. Rules... :)

Rich_Storm
06-21-2002, 08:57 AM
I've got a newbie question for everyone. I just received my Storm RTR last night. I've never owned a nitro car before and am not sure of everything I need to do to run this thing correctly. Anyone have any recommendations on the things I need to get this thing running? Brands of fuel, glow starters things of that nature.

Also is there anything I need to check on the storm itself, like I read on some threads back about having to fill the diff with oil. Was there any consensis on whether that was true or not?

UberGamer256
06-21-2002, 01:47 PM
The diffs come with grease.. but its a good idea to fill them with oil. Put 3000 wgt in the front.. 7000 in the center.. and 1000 in the rear.

Any glow ignitor will work.. Dynamite makes some nice ones. I run Blue Thunder fuel.. but Odonnel is just as good if not better.

Need anything else?

CyberISda
06-22-2002, 01:30 PM
Finally i got yesterday my Storm Pro :D, I haven't start building it but one of this days i'll got my baby running and waking up my neighbors :cool:

I'm still scouting engines and planning to buy a cheap one for a starter like me. I think RB CE would be great. I'll keep you posted and attach the image here soon.

Any building tips would be great!

UberGamer256
06-22-2002, 01:47 PM
The RB 5 port is a good engine. I know a few people that have owned it. Very good low end and decent high. The 3 port isnt worth it though.

CyberISda
06-22-2002, 02:12 PM
So that means i go with the RB 1003-CS :)

Also someone is selling here NOVAROSSI TOP BT 21 SB - SBK (With intake chamber) for $150 but not a brand new so i thinking if i go with the NOV or brand new RB

Regarding the NOV engine, i have no other info yet how long his using it and if raced so i'll let you know the details.

Thanks Uber

CyberISda
06-22-2002, 02:19 PM
I'm not sure about the engine type but somethign like this, [Paris Rex 5 Port SBK] probably its d same :D

Spurdog28
06-22-2002, 11:36 PM
I bought a RTR Storm about 2 months ago and have done a little racing with it. I have a couple questions:

1. I bought the long springs from GS and they are only long enough for the front but not the rear. any suggestions?

2. I know you have coverd it a 1000 times, but filling the diffs with fluid, where do you get it (the fluid)?

3. Why is it important to upgrade the torque rods?

Thanks for the help. I love this thing so much. I put in a XXL to work with my R1, a trinity receiver pack, a dynamite race guard fail safe, and better servos. I also bought a second (used) ready to run for spare parts, now I have CVD's all around :). I have raced on the road course against mod T-Maxx's with the Ofna slicks, this thing sticks like glue. Oh well thanks again.

UberGamer256
06-23-2002, 12:11 AM
The diff oil can be found on horizonhobby.com or in your LHS that carrys horizon stuff.

The torque rods reduce chassis flex.

And if the rear springs arn't long enough.. try some Kyosho springs. Or Ofna.

Spurdog28
06-23-2002, 05:30 AM
Thanks!

CyberISda
06-24-2002, 12:17 PM
oppps sorry for the multiple posting , i have no idea why it happen like that :rolleyes:

Anyway finally i bought an engine unfortunately i can't find any RB 5 port so i went with the CE. Another thing is the diff oil, the manual says 5 k on front, 7k center and 1k rear unfortunately i don't have and no one here in my lhs selling 1 k except 3 k so i guess i'm going with the setup like this:

5000 FRONT
7000 CENTER
3000 REAR

Any idea or suggestion if this setup if its works ok? Is there any downgrade on overall porformance?

Thanks in advance :D

HoBaoHOBO
06-24-2002, 12:38 PM
CyberISda...

The reason the rear diff is run with a light fluid is so that it does not impede your turning and cause the car to basically have a locked rearend. When you turn, the outer wheel moves at a higher rpm than the inner wheel. Therefore the higher your rear diffs fluid, the more locked it will be and the less steer and more push you will have coming out of a turn. Its like lockers on a 4wd pickup. You want them on when you need to go in a straight line and have both wheels turning at the same time.

I wouldn't go above 2000 weight unless I was drag racing.

If you can;t get our hands on some 1000 wt. I would go with grease. Its lighter, lubes well, and is just as good if not better than Silicone oil IMO. It is a little messier when its time to clean it up tho. As grease heats up it thins out so it basically has a similar viscosity to diff oil. BTW several top name drivers run grease in the rear, do not think that it is not an accepted practice. Lots of manufactuers have diff grease, HPI makes some real good stuff, and you don't need to pack it full. Just put enough so that all the gears will coat once it starts moving. I usually put a little on each gear and then fill the case with a squirt or two, up to about where the bottom of the planet gears will be.

Rich_Storm
06-24-2002, 01:04 PM
Anyone have ideas on correctly breaking in the engine on an RTR. I'm following the break-in procedures in the manual but it doesn't say anything about adjusting the needles. I havn't adjusted the needles yet but I think out of the box its set rich because there is a fair amount of fuel ejecting from the exhaust. Do you want to run it rich all through break-in or should I gradually lean it out through the part of break-in where you run at 1/2 throttle?

Thanks,

TalleyRacing
06-25-2002, 11:57 AM
If you want to run grease in your diffs, try JT-6. Most automotive or farm supply stores should carry it. To be rather honest, I run 50wt shock oil in my rear diff. 5000 in the center, and 3000 in the front. That currently is on a Mugen XR, but I'm most likely going to be switching the a Storm Pro by mid July.

charly
06-25-2002, 01:14 PM
Hi everybody

i own a storm RTR; as the original chassis flex is boring i'd like to replace it by the pro or the fiorini chassis. I wonder if i would need to replace other things, torque rods for instance ?

Thanks

UberGamer256
06-25-2002, 01:44 PM
Get the Pro chassis. Either chassis wont improve your flex much.. but they will make the car lighter.. and stronger. Good idea to use the alu torque rods too.

Spurdog28
06-25-2002, 04:19 PM
Is there anywhere else to get the torque rods and diff oils? Horrizon is backordered on most of it. Thanks!

TalleyRacing
06-25-2002, 04:39 PM
If such is the case, try Tower. If that fails, get the Fioroni braces. Just as strong, and are tricked out blue.

UberGamer256
06-25-2002, 04:41 PM
All i can say is to check with your local hobby shops. There is a online store that will be open soon that will have most of GS/Fioroni/Medial Pro stuff... but its not open yet.

UberGamer256
06-25-2002, 04:42 PM
Steve, Tower doesnt have any of the GS stuff :) Its horizon only...

And the GS braces should be a little stronger the the Fioroni ones. Like it maters though.. they both work great.

james1vx
06-25-2002, 08:22 PM
a good place to go is http://www.teamoneill.net/index.htm he has links to many places also hardcore racing is one.i thought the diffs had fluid in them already, by the inst it says they do. guess i have some work to do. great car forst 1/8 scale ive had.

UberGamer256
06-25-2002, 08:49 PM
The stock Sport kits come with Grease in the diffs. Its not required, but its a good idea to switch this out for silicone diff oil.

Like i said before.. GS makes any wgt you will need.. and its relativly cheap and in a great bottle.

Spurdog28
06-25-2002, 08:53 PM
If you can find it anywhere. My LHS gets everything from Horizon and it is backordered to them also.

TalleyRacing
06-26-2002, 12:09 AM
Ross, I keep forgetting that Tower is Great Planes. My bad.

UberGamer256
06-26-2002, 12:12 AM
Steve.. get on AIM...

charly
06-26-2002, 03:20 AM
UberGamer256, i guess i incorrectly used the 'flex' word. I just want it to be stronger (the old one bends too easily) ! So your answer was ok :-)
However i'd like to know if alu torque rods are obligatory with the pro chassis or the fiorini ? In other words do the original torque rods fit these chassis ? Are the chassis length the same ?

TalleyRacing
06-26-2002, 07:09 AM
The original torque rods should fit either car. When I say should, I'm not saying it won't, but sometimes, for some reason, parts don't fit when they should. But for all practical reason, yes, the stock rods will fit.

Ross, you forget, I'm on the right coast, you're on the left coast. I gotta sleep sometime. Catch me today sometime.

UberGamer256
06-26-2002, 03:14 PM
The old ones will work.. but you will have to much flex if you get the Fiorioni or GS chassis and use the plastic stiffeners. Get Alu ones...

charly
06-26-2002, 04:07 PM
Thanks for the replies :-)
In fact i don't mind is there's a little flex; when i drive better i will think of the alu torque rods... Nevertheless the other solution would be to get directly a pro kit !

charly
06-28-2002, 03:31 AM
BTW, who know which parts has been modified in pro kits since the first kits ? That is for someone wanting to buy a pro kit, how to know that it's the last release ?

TalleyRacing
06-28-2002, 07:02 AM
The plastic for one. It's more like the Mugen stuff now.

UberGamer256
06-28-2002, 02:52 PM
They have improved the plastic.. added ears to the bulkheads and shock towers.. fixed the flywheel issue.. filled in the uper front a-arms... bored out the hub carrers in front.. and something else i forget....

TalleyRacing
06-28-2002, 04:07 PM
And you call yourself a team driver.

UberGamer256
06-28-2002, 04:12 PM
I call myself the only one to ever notice that they changed the front hub carrers :)

TalleyRacing
06-28-2002, 04:27 PM
Oh. Well alright then. At least you know what to call yourself.

FrankT
06-28-2002, 08:17 PM
where can you buy those engines those guys were talking about on the second page.is the stock storm engine powerful .Thanks Frank

charly
07-01-2002, 05:58 AM
Thanks for the detailed anwser.
I'll have to find a technical RC dictionary cause there are some parts name that i don't understand :-)
BTW uber, your website is cool.

CyberISda
07-01-2002, 06:06 PM
Hi guys i got another question here, finally i got my storm pro running and broke in the engine for 8 tanks just to be sure. Anyway its RB CE, the problem is here, whenever i went to pit stop and release the throtle the engine screams for 5 secs then it goes down to the stationairy idle. In the first place i thought this was normal coz it's new engine. I follow the adjustment on on the engine by leaning the Air screw but still the same it goes up for 5 sec then goes down the idle. Is this normal for the RB CE engine or something should i adjust on the needle.

Anyway i raced em yesterday and got first place unfortunately on the final minute my lower Front Drive shaft coupling and crosspin is gone and i have to drive it slowly just to finish the lap. i guess factory threadlock is not enough :( :( . Another problem i have was the 2 screw on the Rear Lower Suspension Arm Holder Set was broken and i have to use a high speed dremel and heat them to remove the screw inside.

I love em though it jumps straight and fast in the corner :cool:

Spurdog28
07-01-2002, 06:10 PM
I just got my Storm Pro. I raced my RTR again and won AGAIN! Anyway, I have the RTR in the For Sale ads if anyone is interested. GREAT CAR!!!!

Rich_Storm
07-02-2002, 11:52 AM
I was wondering how hot other peoples engines were running and what a good operating temp for the stock engine? When running full throttle my engine temp gets up around 260F-270F. It's running great but the exhaust melted a whole in the body where it curves coming out the back of the engine. I just wanted to make sure I'm not damaging the engine.

Thanks,

Spurdog28
07-02-2002, 11:59 AM
That temp range is good, I have actually ran mine around 300 during 5 minute races (not too recommended though). Melting the body is common though, just cut that part of the body out around the header. It is common because the body actually sits on the header. Hope this helps.

Spurdog28
07-02-2002, 12:10 PM
I got my Pro built last night, I am in love again! Everything went together great. I had to raise the radio tray cause of the steering servo I used no big deal. I am using the RTR engine though (until I can afford the RB). What do you all thing of the Dynamite Off-Road pipe? Thanks! I will post some pics later.

blurredvision
07-03-2002, 09:46 PM
I just bought my Storm RTR. Before I run it I am going to redo the shock fluid, go over everything that needs to be locktighted with locktight, and add oil to the diffs. Here is my question, when I went to buy oil I bought 3000wt for front, 7000wt for center, and 1000wt for rear. The manual says I shouls use 5000wt for front. What kind of differences will the buggy have using 3000wt, instead of 5000wt in the front?

Thanks
Jay

Spurdog28
07-03-2002, 10:26 PM
I used 3000 up front and it worked great. You have to remember using the Diff oil is like shock oil, it varies on your condition. Think of a normal diff, you adjust it by tightening down a nut or screw (depending on the diff), this is the same. The thicker the oil the tighter the diff. So the lighter oil SHOULD help you turn better. Hope this helps.

blurredvision
07-03-2002, 10:37 PM
Thanks for the quick reply.

Sounds simple enough. I'll give the 3000wt a try.

Good explanation by the way.

Thanks
Jay

Spurdog28
07-03-2002, 10:41 PM
By the way I have a rolling chassis for sale if you need spare parts. I bought a second one for spare parts. So basically I have 3 now.

U1arunit
07-05-2002, 04:09 PM
Hi guys and gals,

Just picked up a Storm ARR buggy with an Omega(Picco) engine. It runs very well but I need some parts and I can't seem to see the part#'s seperately listed in the manual. It is definately not the best written book that I've read. :)

So far I need:

* upper front shock cap seal, or shock rebuild kit (it leaks)

* rear hub inner 5x5mm set screw (it retains the pin)

* new fuel tank

Who else besides Horizon sells parts for them? They seem to be back-ordered on a lot of the items for the Storm. I would like some sources for hop-ups if there are any out there too. Please!?

What weights of diff fluids are you guys running front, center, and rear? We have a home track that is hard and dry with several hard turns so maybe a reccomendation based on that?

We are on the way out the door for vacation so I will check in with you guys when we get back. Hopefully by then you will have an enormous amount of info and help for me. I definately need all the help you can give me.

Thanks in advance! :D

diesel757
07-08-2002, 11:02 PM
Talley Racing; I have a question for you. I believe you know the track I race at, DRCW, what buggy would you go with; K-car 7.5, Storm Pro, or Mugen. I'm looking for ease of set-up, durability, and replacement part availability and cost of these parts as compared to one another. Thanks.....Rob

P.S. do you think used buggies are worth it?

OmegaTrac
07-10-2002, 08:22 PM
Hey,
I was seriously looking at the GS Racing STORM RTR. Is this a good car? Is it worth buying? Tell me anything you can about it. This would be a cool car to own.

CyberISda
07-11-2002, 05:00 PM
Hey guys can you help to prevent my tanks spilling all over the body. Do you know how to prevent it or just a product defect on GS Storm Pro. After i ran i saw some fuel all over my servos and my center differential.

Help!:(

OmegaTrac
07-11-2002, 06:21 PM
Hey guys.

Ive decided on gettin the Storm 80% ARR. What will I need to get this thing runnin? I will need a Radio(already have), Receiver(need), and Motor. What else will I need? Will I need servos?

U1arunit
07-13-2002, 12:28 AM
C'mon guys! I need some help here. Can't anyone answer the questions in my post?

Thanks.

tm4347
07-16-2002, 10:35 PM
GS Storm

I just got the ofna starter box #10249 for my RTR Storm, is there something more I need to do, it seems like I really have to crush the car down to get good contact because the flywheel is not very exposed?

Another problem I have is after about a half tank my Storm will stall. When I get the lid off I can see that the carb. is bubbling air into the gas line forcing the gas back up the line, any tips would be great.

My third problem is when I create a thread such as this and I try to view the replies, I get a screen stating that I don't have access to this page. I have e-mailed the powers at be for this forum, but they do not respond.

Thanks!

U1arunit
07-16-2002, 10:47 PM
I use an Ofna box as well and the wheel is a little large in diameter so I ground a little of the chassis plate away around the flywheel to ensure that it makes decent contact. Works great now.

Sorry I can't offer help to your other questions.

camillerim
07-19-2002, 06:04 AM
hey guys, i just bought a storm rtr.
im gonna be breaking in the engine in the next couple of days and i was wondering what i need to watch out for when i do so?? (problems) and also what methods (steps) do u guys use when u break in the bo1? (such as, the body off? buggy off the ground? and things like that) what other things do i need to know about the car so i dont wreck it???

thanx a million

UberGamer256
07-19-2002, 02:16 PM
Camillierim - Just do as it says in the manual.. it explains all the steps for you. Keeping the body off with make the steps easyer, but it doesnt really matter if its on or not.

Omegatrac- You will need a throttle and steering servo (perferable something like .10/100oz up for steering) a reciver battery, and fuel.

U1arunit - Check wiht your local hobby shop.. they might have some parts. THere is a online store for GS stuff.. but its not open yet. I will post here when it opens.

I would run 3000 front, 7000 center, and JT-6 grese or 1000 in rear. Thats a good setup for a high traction track. If its loose... try 10,000 center.

If ya guys need anything else just ask. Sorry for the slow reply this time.. been busy at my job.

Feel free to e-mail me or AIM me any time too.

U1arunit
07-19-2002, 05:52 PM
Thanks UberGamer256! I will be glad when that on-line store opens. I want to get some stuff for the Storm.
:D

camillerim
07-19-2002, 10:35 PM
hey thanx uber.
i have another question, im gonna be thrashin my car for a bit around the park, what diff fluid, shock oil and shocks should i use? btw ive got the rtr storm
thanx

camillerim
07-19-2002, 10:36 PM
sorri i forgot to mention that the park is short grass + dusty dirt thanx

UberGamer256
07-19-2002, 10:44 PM
I would go with 5000 front and 10000 center since with the ligther stuff the diff will want to unwind in the grass and on the slick dirt.

camillerim
07-19-2002, 11:07 PM
ok thanx. will the stock shocks suit the grass and dusty dirt?
is there a rear diff? if so what fluid should i use?
sorri im very new to 1/8 scale.

camillerim
07-20-2002, 07:12 AM
hey uber, ive been throught this thread and there has been a lot of confusiuon bout the rtr diffs.
i just got the arr car THIS month.
is there diff fluid? or oil in the diffs? and has the problem with the shims been solved with the new arr? (if not what should i do)
im very confused
thanx alot for the help:

alanlefler
07-21-2002, 10:17 PM
Hi,
I've raced electrics for years,but just purchased a GS Storm. My question is can I use a starter box with the pull starter still on the furnished engine or should I remove the pull starter and replace it with a blank cover?
Thanks,
Dale

p.s. would also appreciate any sugestions on a good low or mid priced starter box.

camillerim
07-21-2002, 11:02 PM
do u guys rekon that the RTR storm is a better buy than the MP 7.5?
thanx in advance

U1arunit
07-22-2002, 06:44 PM
alan,

I use an Ofna box that has a 12v motor and gel cell battery enclosed. It has plenty of nut to start my Picco 21 quickly and easily.

cam,

I don't think that the RTR Storm is on par with a Kyosho MP 7.5 mainly because the 7.5 is a more competition level machine, whereas the RTR Storm is kinda upper-entry level as far as buggies go. Myself, I have the ARR Storm and it is very durable and so far I am pretty pleased. My buddy has a Kyosho Kanai edition buggy that handles pretty good and has a lot of nice features but he has big $$ in it. I feel that the decision should be based mainly on what you want to do with it and what your budget is. HTH

camillerim
07-23-2002, 05:06 AM
thanx aruinit, how bout to mp7.5 sports? compared to the storm rtr??
the 7.5 sports is a lil more expensive but i hear that it is more durable?? and thats what i would like.
thanzx

smoky
07-23-2002, 02:51 PM
ok well ive started out with a rtr storm. my plan is to make a full option storm. so far ive gotten all of the dynamite aluminum parts the gs aluminum torque rods. next on my list are the cvds for all around. i need some opinions on what else would work for it. i also have a os-01b. so what hopups do you guys have or want that i could add to my 'project vechile'. ill post sme pics when i get it done it already looks relly sweet with the dynamite stuff. oh and i also have the pro chassis. well tanks for the input.

U1arunit
07-23-2002, 11:57 PM
smoky,

Sounds really nice, do you have a parts list of Dynamite items that you bought? Be sure to post the pics too. Thanks!

carlton eppes
07-24-2002, 07:50 PM
Smoky the Fioroni chassis is NICE as is the Fioroni rear bulkhead brace. Before you buy CVD's check on the Dynamite ones so far I haven't bent one. List what you already have so we can see if you missed something. Also throw the GS pipe out and buy a GOOD one.

U1arunit
07-24-2002, 08:59 PM
carlton,

Where can we order Fioroni items?

What pipe do you reccomend for an Omega/Picco .21?

Thanks.

carlton eppes
07-24-2002, 09:19 PM
Your LHS can get them if they aren't connected with GS yet for Fioroni then go to http://www.generalsilicones.com/ and look for a dealer near you.

What kinda track do you run on (small and tight etc.) what clutch are you using what tooth clutch bell? These all play a part in what pipe you may need. If you need lowend an 053 is good, more mid range 063, more top end 086. These are Novarossi pipes but there are a lot of different brands out there. Call National RC and ask Regan, Bill or Richie. http://www.nationalrc.com they know what works a lot better than I do.

U1arunit
07-24-2002, 09:24 PM
Thanks carlton. :)

charly
07-25-2002, 08:29 AM
Do you know if the size of the holes in the pistons are the same in the RTR and the PRO ?
I wonder if i can use the pro setups on my RTR ....

HoBaoHOBO
07-25-2002, 10:17 AM
The shocks should be totally identical inside. Matter of fact as long as the bodies are the same diameter, you can run piston heads from any manufactuer. FYI nearly all buggies have the same diameter shocks.....

As far as pro setups........I do not think I have yet to see a set-up sheet where the driver did not drill out his pistons to a particular size. If you think your track compares to a particular set-up sheet, break out a drill and bore your piston holes out. I would get a couple sets of shocks before i did this however because you may not like the results and there is no going back. You have to rebuild your shocks and then waste oil to do that. x4 this can add up.

Manufactuers spent a lot of time engineering shocks. I'm pretty sure that the current pistons on your shocks are more than perfect if you tune them with oil. Theres only about 500 weights to choose from now. Is it Losi that now has .25, .5, and .75 weights between 20 and 60??? For the most part, making a hole larger is the same as lowering your shock oil weight and vise-versa. There is some argument there when talking about cycling and large landings but its all in your preference.

Unless you are hardcore circuit racing and can afford about 3 or 4 sets of shocks to tune with, I'd just invest in different weight oils and experiment. My $0.02.

charly
07-25-2002, 10:41 AM
Hi HoBaoHOBO,

Thanks for your detailed answer.
In fact i was looking at some setup sheets (for the PRO) which precise that origin piston are used. Some other have the holes size.
As you said i don't want to buy new sets a shocks, at least until the current ones are ok.

FrankT
07-28-2002, 02:53 PM
I just got my storm RTR and wow it is awesome.I have 2 questions.1-the exhaust is extremley loud can I do something about that ,may someone can recomend something.and 2-the antenna tube does it just sit there in that spring thing,just seemed kinda loose..
Thanks Frank

UberGamer256
07-28-2002, 03:03 PM
Frank - The pipe is a single chamber style.. and you will need a new one to quiet it up. I recomend a RB/Novarossi 086 or 063 (86 for top end and 63 for more bottom end power).

For the antenna.. look aroudn and buy some differant tubes. My LHS has some long black ones that fit it great. To keep the wire from coming out.. i just zip tie it to the part of the spring that runs to the spring (the straight part).

carlton eppes
07-28-2002, 03:04 PM
Frank T.
Yes the RTR pipe is LOUD! The only way to fix it is to replace it. Try the Novarossi 053 pipe it will give you more low end than the RTR pipe and it's quieter.

Charly

I think the stock piston hole is 1.3mm - 2 holes per piston. you can drill the hole or you can change the piston without having to rebuild the shocks. The kyosho pistons and shock shafts are direct replacements if you need any. I think most of the setup sheets recommend drill size #54 or #55 . #54 being the larger one of the 2.

UberGamer256
07-28-2002, 03:08 PM
Well hello Carlton :-) haha... You posted about 30 seconds after me. Hehe

Charly.. the Pro shocks include a differant set of shock pistons in the set. They have smaller holes then the RTR ones. However the RTR ones can be found on the little parts tree with the shock spacers and collets.

The Pro pistons have less tendancy to bell up (curve on the top) then the RTR ones.

UberGamer256
07-28-2002, 03:11 PM
In fact.. i may be wrong about the above.. as im not shure if they have the white pistons anymore.

When i got my Pro.. i put it together with the black pistons.. as i dont remember seeing white ones.. but when i bought the pro shocks for my RTR.. there were white pistons in the shock kits.

Strange.. maybe they have changed in the newer kits...


Edit: If your looking for setup sheets.. try http://www.gs-europe.com and http://www.medialpro.com

Team URC.com will soon have a collection of most setups sheets for almost all offroad cars. Look for that soon at http://www.teamurc.com

carlton eppes
07-28-2002, 03:12 PM
Hey Ross

Also on the Storm shocks one of the main shock problems I've run into is the piston getting shoved down the shaft. The small washer under the piston concaves and then it and the piston slide down the shaft. Needless to say the shock doesn't work right like that. You can also feel something funny when you move the shock by hand when this happens.

UberGamer256
07-28-2002, 03:14 PM
Carlton.. had that happen to many of my shocks too. Plus seen it happen lots. I cant recall it happening to my Pro though.. i think they may have improved upon on the little washer.

Anyway.. do the Kyosho shafts come with the washers? Or are they even needed with those shafts?

carlton eppes
07-28-2002, 03:15 PM
Ross when you gonna post some pics of your car?

carlton eppes
07-28-2002, 03:18 PM
Those washers are used on ALL the 1/8 shocks that I've had apart. No they don't come with the shafts just a new nut. I think the problem is the piston bottoms out in the cap so if you put a limiter (piece of fuel tube) on the shaft outside the housing so it won't bottom on hard landings it will cut down on the problem. Atleast it did on mine.

UberGamer256
07-28-2002, 03:22 PM
I will get some good pics of the new body and Pro soon. Maybe later today.. who knows.

FrankT
07-28-2002, 03:25 PM
thanks for the responses on the pipes,so which one would be better for me I'm just a backyard basher if it helps.the 063 or the 086..
Thanks

carlton eppes
07-28-2002, 03:25 PM
I need to take some more pics today I finished another body for the touring car and I guess I need to take some more pics of the Storm.

FrankT
07-28-2002, 03:28 PM
also do you think anyone would be interested in buying the stock pipe ,it only has 1 tank of fuel threw it...
Thanks Frank

carlton eppes
07-28-2002, 03:28 PM
The 053! The RTR motor needs more lowend especially for bashing. If you run it at the track then 063 would be good. I've gotta change pipse on mine, I've been running an 053 with a Crono CLB which has a killer lowend already. I need to see if I can get a little more midrange and a little less lowend.

carlton eppes
07-28-2002, 03:30 PM
If you can find someone that likes noise!:D

FrankT
07-28-2002, 03:31 PM
you got that one right....

FrankT
07-28-2002, 03:31 PM
so what do think the 063 or 086

carlton eppes
07-28-2002, 03:34 PM
Let's see if I can get this to work this time.
http://www.teamurc.com/pics/Carlton/storm2.jpg

carlton eppes
07-28-2002, 03:37 PM
I think the 053 would be better.

UberGamer256
07-28-2002, 03:45 PM
If your bashing... the Dynamite two chamber is good also. Its also very cheap.. about half the price of the RB/Novarossi pipes.

Or the 63 would be best.

Carlton... Is the 53 a midrange pipe? Or is it even lower end then the 63?

carlton eppes
07-28-2002, 03:48 PM
Ross compared to the 053 the 063 is a midrange pipe.

FrankT
07-28-2002, 05:14 PM
So the 63 would be the best for me...

charly
07-29-2002, 05:22 AM
Thanks for the informations.
Yesterday i had a problem with a my receiver battery... everything seems to be ok though.
However the kit have of the play (i'm not sure that's the correct term in english...). Is that something you see on your cars ?

FrankT
07-29-2002, 01:56 PM
I want to order the pipe today which one rb 063 or 086..
Thanks Frank