Tamiya Mitsubishi Pajero Forum

[tamiyadude]

Several guys have put the jugg hard body on the Pajero... They've had to cut down the bed to make it the right wheelbase. King Blackfoot body is good to go wheelbase wise, just needs body mounts.

[ian48065]

do you think the parma 1/10 F-350 body will fit? thanks~iAn

[SteveK]

You have to extend the wheelbase to get most of those Parma bodies to fit, but it will work. I had my beat up Dodge Ram set on the chassis so see what it looked like, and it worked OK.

There MIGHT be enough extra space in the driveshaft to not need an extension: Just move the set screws closer to the ends of the shafts they ride on, and see how much extra is in the slider part.

[ian48065]

Thanks but im a newbie to this truck (not R/C) how would i extend the wheelbase? could you explain it super detailed lol thanks, great help!~iAn

[Maxxcrazy]

The wheelbase on a Pajero is 9.5in. The wheel base on a Parma Maxx body is 12in. You'd need to extend the wheelbase by 2.5in. You'd probibly need longer links and Traxxas sliders

[ian48065]

no no the parma maxx body is for a maxx! I ment the 1/10 350 single cab. Theres no messurement (sp) for the wheel base though~iAn

[SteveK]

http://www.parmapse.com/catpics/10170.jpg

To mount that body you will likely need to extend the wheelbase a little. I had my Parma Dodge Ram on my Pajero while it was apart, and you don't need too much more.

To extend the wheelbase you will need some new upper and lower links (You could try the second set of holes for a longer wheelbase, but it might not fit exactly): You'll need some rod material, rod ends, and a new way to mount the rear shocks.

To make new rods you'll need some Traxxas rod-ends, 3/16" OD aluinum tubing (The thick-walled kind), some 4-40 threaded rod (2" screws with their heads cut off would work), and a4-40 tap. Use longer sections of threaded rod to make a tie-rods, to set the proper length. Then measure gap between the rod-ends after it's all set, and cut the aluminum tubing to that length, maybe minus a millimeter or two for adjustment (Adding or removing washers to get just the right length).

Tap the aluminum to about 1/2-1" in on each end, going slowly and backing up occasionally to clear the swarf (Yes, that's what the shavings are called). Some oil helps ease the tapping process. Insert the threaded rod into the aluminum, leaving enough sticking out on each end to thread fully into the Traxxas rod-ends. Some Sho Goo or thread-locker will help keep the rod in the aluminum tube; It should stay in the plastic rod-end just fine.

After all the rods are built, measure to see that each rod of the same pair is the same length. The actual length isn't that critical, nor is the relationship between the upper and lower rods (Within reason: Don't want the pinion angle all out of whack), but you want the rods the same on the left and right of the truck so it tracks straight.

After that's all set, you need a new shock mount on the rear axle. Right-angle aluminum stock it best, bolted to existing holes in the rear axle. Change the screws to threaded ones with nuts if need be. Change the rear shock pivot to a ball and rod end for more free movement.

Like I said before, there might be enough slack in the stock driveshaft to not need a new one. If you do, you can try a Traxxas slider shaft, Maxx or another vehicle maybe, or an Allen wrench with the right angle cut off (I forget the diameter: A site with a custom Jugg had that mod). The slider is probably easier.

[SteveK]

Here are the parts I would suggest using:

-1 pack will take car of the rear suspension, lower shock ends, steering links, and even the front camber links:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJJ81&P=7

- Use these to fine-tune the length of the finished rods: Just take off one end and add or remove washers until it's right. 2 packs would be better than 1:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2767&P=7

- Your local shop probably sells these in singles. I'd buy at least two, so you can make the test-rods and have enough left for the finished ones:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD871&P=7

- Use these together to tap the aluminum rod. Sears, Home Depot, etc sell both.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXE214&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXE225&P=7

- This is for the body of the rods. Your LHS sells this in singles as well.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXS020&P=7

- Something like this will make cutting the aluminum quick and easy, and the ends will stay square. I use little c-clamps to hold a squared-off block of wood in one end, to act as a stop, ensuring multiple rods will be the same length if each butts up against it. Definitely get the metal box with the grooves in the bottom:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKZ02&P=7

Use some regular hardware store aluminum angle for the shock mounts. I haven't finalized a mount for mine yet (Took it all apart to add bearings, and do that: Did the bearings, still futzing with the rear shocks) but when I do I'll post pictures.

[ian48065]

wow! thanks so much i have some traxxas sliders left over so i will try that first. It that doesnt work then i ll go to the rods, again thanks for typing all of that!~iAn

[ian48065]

one more question how does the body mount on there, i know of the two front body mounts, but does the tailgat mount on the two rear ones?~iAn

[SteveK]

No, the stock rear mounts will not likely work at all, so just use some vertical posts like the front. There are holes in the chassis for them.

I like the white Duratrax posts, the ones with the black collar that locks with a setscrew.

[ian48065]

I can not thank you enough for this info!~iAn

[Doomed]

SteveK is the man!

Here are some older pics runing with Baja King tires and wheels.

[Doomed]

.

[Doomed]

Here's my feet after it went into some really soft mud and couldn't roll out!

[ian48065]

did you make those black windows in the back or do they come like that?~iAn

[Doomed]

Yes, I sprayed them with black paint.

[Maxxcrazy]

Nice. You sprayed over the decals?

I plan on cutting up my Hummer tires to actually give them grip, They have the same grip as slicks now. I plan on making then sort of like paddle shaped. just gonna cut about 10 or so "|/" 's into each tire. Should give it good grip for crawling and mudding. I'm gonna buy a stick pack so I can finnaly get it running. Then I'll make a huge mud patch and put rocks to crawl over in it.

[Doomed]

I actually cut the decals around the windows and removed them. The blade cuts into the lexan so beware. I don't care about the condition of the body because I have another one I working on. And I have rolled the truck down a hill about 7,000 times! :D

[Maxxcrazy]

I cut the tires. I'll get some pics later. It should improve traction 100 times. I've see people cut out everyother tread on hummer tires, but I just cut horizonally across the tire about 8 or 9 times. Then in between each cut, it put a little V shape in for forward and reverse traction. The other meathod just increases forward traction. I'm installing them right now, They look mean.

BTW, I used a grinder. It worked a lot better than a dremel for what I had to do.

[Doomed]

That sounds pretty cool, I definetly would like to see the finished product when your done. I always wanted to get some of those, but as you and other people have said they have horrible traction stock. Should be cool.

[Maxxcrazy]

http://www.******.net/media/jero200.jpg
http://www.******.net/media/jero201.jpg
http://www.******.net/media/jero202.jpg

[Doomed]

Those look evil! Very cool, whats your first thoughts on traction?

[Maxxcrazy]

The tread is very rough (thats a good thing), so it should grip very well. I'll probibly go to the LHS sometime this week to pick up a battery pack.

Believe it or not, That pic was shot in the same place the ice pics were shot. The feild gets frozen over when it rains, and farmers plant corn in the spring.

[Doomed]

Maxxcrazy-

I just noticed, are you haveing a little servo problem in that last pic? :D

[Maxxcrazy]

lol. I put the reciever in my XX4 along time ago, I haven't ran it in months.

[ian48065]

When i get my pajero im goin to use associated 3 inch shocks but im goin to try and cram in 4 inch shocks lol do you think that the green spring is soft enough for good articulation? if not what spring would be good (color wise) thanks!~iAn

[extreme Pajero]

how fast does the pajero go stock

[SteveK]

The stock Pajero will go about 12mph stock. That was from RCCA, and with the stock MSC and bushings, so bearings and an ESC will increase run time and speed.

It isn't fast, but it's really powerful: It will just claw it's way along grass in my yard that is taller than the wheels. There was a picture on RC MT of a guy climbing a table set up against a wall at some crazy angle, and all he did was put a tarp or something over it for traction.

[Maxxcrazy]

there not build for speed or jumping, there made for just about everything else besides those two.

[extreme Pajero]

is there a Pajero kit

[SteveK]

There were some kits using the same chassis, but they were discontinued more than 5 years ago. You could get a Jeep Wrangler, Mistibishi Pajero MTW (MetalTopWide, same as the Dodge Raider over here), Honda CRV, and on-road and off-road versions of the Isuzu Amigo/Mu. All the bodies were hard ABS plastic, like the little static models.

[ian48065]

My pajero should be in tomarrow!!! yes! lol I cant wait :) should i lock both diffs? or just the rear? thanks~iAn

[Janders]

definitely lock both diffs, if you won't be rock climbing, at least lock the rear diff

[Doomed]

I'm with Jander, lock both but only if your all off-road.

[ian48065]

how do i get to the center diff, i already locked the rear. I am falling in love with the detail of this truck, its great!~iAn

[SteveK]

You have to lift off that main plate, it covers up all the gears in the tranny. If you unscrew the steering knuckles and slide the dogbones out, you can remove the outdrives and the front diff just lifts straight up.

There is a mechanical insert in the kit that can just be slipped in and it locks the rear diff. If you order the G parts bag you will get it. One might fit up front too, so you don't have to make a permanant modification up there.

I haven't experienced it, but I hear the rear diff gears blow out easily when doing hard crawling, so locking is almost a must.

[Doomed]

SteveK is right, order two "G" parts bags, it works at both ends.

[SteveK]

I'm just wondering, where do you guys get your Pajero parts? I want to snag a bunch of the stuff that only works on the Pajero, such as rear end, gears, chassis, etc. just in case. I also wanted a set of tires and a clear body to mess with.

BTW, if you can find them, a set of the wheels from the Tamiya Lancia 037 rally car would look great on this chassis: Just spray on some semi-gloss or flat clearcoat and you have some aluminum-look wheels (Or leave them chrome) with the circular hole pattern.

[Doomed]

I get most parts I need off of e-bay, which are usualy over priced. Some not to bad. I just bought a clear lexan Pajero body from Tamiya, it was $59 shipped.

[SteveK]

OK, forget that....

[Doomed]

I agree but I wanted something other than the silver and the factory paint is a bear to get off.

[SteveK]

But that's 3 bodies from Parma (And of their fairly scale truck or SUV bodies), Bolink (I have an S10 Blazer that will fit pretty well), or Pro-Line (If you can find the Mercedes SUV they made, I think it's discontinued).

[Doomed]

Yes I know, I'm on crack but I really like the Pajero body! :p

[SteveK]

If I had a vacuum-forming machine I would pay that, just so I could have unlimited copies of the body. Same with the hard plastic bodies: I'd pay a lot for one if I was able to make all the Lexan copies I wanted.

[maX energ]

hey, i've had my pajero for a while and i made a few of my own mods, im really happy with its performance..
i cut the front bumper (those extra 2 bars that extand from the round rectangle in the middle, i thought they looked unrealistic! and they did!!, also it improves off roading cause small things wont hit the bumper, now they hit the tires and then it will climb over them...)
i have also locked both diffs, and have a torque spilter.
i made a custom aluminum transfer case skid plate, i love it! ill have some pics soon!
i also just finished making myself a custom tie-rod rear end...(its crazy! lol)
it raises the rear .5 of an inch and i get MASSIVLY MORE arcticulation...its wack! lol
tamiya 540SH motor, bearings, MC230R esc, tamiya motor heat sink, duratrax 3" gold shocks in the fron and stock rears (i like them lol) and i added some scraches to my body lol..


about my rear end...(it uses some clod part, tie rods, zip ties lol) hey...it works, and there no one out there that makes hop ups...



well anyways...keep on 4x4ing...

[Doomed]

Originally posted by SteveK
If I had a vacuum-forming machine I would pay that, just so I could have unlimited copies of the body. Same with the hard plastic bodies: I'd pay a lot for one if I was able to make all the Lexan copies I wanted.


Now where did I put that "vacuum-forming machine", good idea!


:D



maX energ-

"i have also locked both diffs, and have a torque spilter."

How the heck can that work?

[Janders]

Some people will do anything to accomodate a Pajero Body:

(courtesy of tetsulo @r c m t .net)
http://www.digitallitter.com/mpajero/mpajeroside.jpg

[SteveK]

Reminds me of some of the old monster trucks back in the early 1980s, when some guys used 72" tires (66" is now the standard), and with a short wheelbase pickup or a Bronco body, you can imagine the clearance issues there.

[maX energ]

about the torque splitter and the locked front end....

if i hit the gas..it will power each wheel normally but complelty together...i i let off, they keep rolling (together..) and i lose power in the front wheels when in reverse...but since my truck goes over ANYTHING forwards...it doesnt matter lol

does that answer that? i dunno...it works althought i it kinda defeats the purpose of a front one way ..i think.... whats the advantages of a front one way...? all i can think of seem like disadvantages... no front brakes, only RWD in reverse?

help me! what are the advantages?

[maX energ]

oh yea today, i asked my dad if he was using all this sand left over from making my brothers basketball court thing, and he said i could use it as long as it wasnt in the way of anything..lol i made myself a desert for my pajero lol....its AWSOME in the sand.....i got some rocks and sticks and put them up hill on a dune and made like a creves in the middle put 2 rocks in it....oh man its cool lol the truck is great in the sand...

[SteveK]

That's what the torque-splitter is for: On-road running, so the 4WD system will not cause the truck to push too much.

For off-road I wouldn't even bother with it.

[maX energ]

im too lazy to change the torque splitter out lol...it might as well just stay there...whatever.

what are some good tire wheels combos for the pajero...i like the one like 2 pages back..(no stickers..hpi wheels proline tires..) what part numbers where the wheels and tires on there...and how are you keeping the front tires from rubbing the fender wells?

[SteveK]

Wheels: Any HPI Super Nitro RS4 wheels will work.

Tires: I think those were Pro-Line Dirt Hawg buggy FRONTS. I have 2 pairs of REARS, and they fit, but I can see them rubbing without doing any trimming or modifications.

[Maxxcrazy]

I havent run my pajero in 2 weeks. I ran it in some mud and ever since i started work, I haven't had time to dry it off. I did have some problems though. Its almost like the motor is cogging when at full speed. It will run fine if I hold the throttle a little. And when I go in reverse, It makes a sound like the motor isnt connected to anything, like its freely revving. I'll check my pinion gear soon. Any other suggestions?

[maX energ]

does the motor like squeel? like a really annoying noise? i had a problem like that and it was because i needed to oil the bushings in the motor...

[maX energ]

finally got you some pics of my custom parts lol...

this one is of my skid plate..
(what is it?)
the msc plate for a tamiya fox

[maX energ]

this one is of my custom 4 link rear suspension
(what is it?)
some clodbuster part,
tamiya cva's
hpi ball cups / tamiya bull cups
aluminum ball ends

[maX energ]

cool front bumper mod..
(what is it?)
just cut the ugly "sticks" protruding from the front bumper :D

[maX energ]

cool front bumper mod..
(what is it?)
just cut the ugly "sticks" protruding from the front bumper :D

[maX energ]

opps double post! i hate that!!! :mad: .. o well :rolleyes:

[TrickSpeed]

Hello,

I bought me a pajero off of ebay, so its on it's way right now. I have a few questions about this vehicle:

Will 4 inch shocks work in the rear? I've got a set of shocks from my HPI MT and want to use them since I bought ally shocks for the mt. Or should I put some extra O-rings inside the shock?

Are there any instructions for making a 4 link rear end?

How hard would it be to remove paint in some spots of the body? I want to take off the paint behind the headlights and tails. I plan on putting 10-14 LEDs on the pajero for night.

[Doomed]

Originally posted by Maxxcrazy
I havent run my pajero in 2 weeks. I ran it in some mud and ever since i started work, I haven't had time to dry it off. I did have some problems though. Its almost like the motor is cogging when at full speed. It will run fine if I hold the throttle a little. And when I go in reverse, It makes a sound like the motor isnt connected to anything, like its freely revving. I'll check my pinion gear soon. Any other suggestions?


That sounds really strange. Can you hear it cogging and see it losing speed?

[maX energ]

trickspeed, i tried 4 inch shocks but it makes the rear way taller then the front...and looks kinda stange, yes i would use some (5 lol) in them...
as for a 4 link...its not too hard, if you can figure the way i did it, it raises the rear .5 inches with the standard shocks
and for the removing paint...some people use nail polish remover...try putting some on a q-tip and be very careful to remove it that way

[Maxxcrazy]

Originally posted by Doomed
That sounds really strange. Can you hear it cogging and see it losing speed?

I don't know if its called cogging, but it stops, then goes and keeps repeating that. But if I hold teh throttle down a little, it will run fine for 10ft, stop and then repeat that pattern. I still gotta check it. I might have a stripped gear somehow.

[Doomed]

It really seems like a gear(if you can hear them) but don't rule out the ESC.

[Maxxcrazy]

I'm using an MSC

[Doomed]

Dirty MSC?

[Janders]

check it, clean it, add bulb or dielectric grease.
Also you may have to tighten it down-MSC's do wear down over time

[Doomed]

Any luck Maxxcrazy?

[SteveK]

I recommend dropping some bucks on an ESC. The Futaba MC230 is good, but any reversible from Novak, Futaba, Hitec, or LRP would be good.

[twinturboz24]

I have a pajero and I ran it (very hard) for nearly a year and all went well. The other day I had it in 2wd (front drive gear out) and I think I taosted the gears in the gearbox. The motor turns but the gears don't catch. I need all new gears for the gearbox. Does anyone know where I can get these? I tried Tower but they dont have them. I went to Tamiya and looked up parts list and have the part #'s (the G parts set).

Someone please let me know.

[Janders]

It might just be a loose pinion, or only a single stripped gear

[twinturboz24]

Yeah I've had the gearbox open several times. All the gears seem fine they just look a little worn and they pinion doesn't touch the spur.

Also can anyone tell me if I was correct i thinking that the gears are the G-parts set?

[SteveK]

Did you change pinion gears, even if it's the same size? Many Tamiya cars use metric-pitch pinion gears. They look close to regular 48 pitch gears, but the two will not mesh together. Check that you are using the correct pinion gear.

[twinturboz24]

Thanks for the help I went and fixed things myself. I took the whole truck apart and cleaned everything. Then I dremmeled the motor mounting plate (black plastic) so I could scoot the motor closer. It works, but I think your right. I have a new pinion and it has the same teeth but they dont mesh very good. I will have to get a Tamiya one. Thanks for the help.

[M03racer]

yes even though they look the same the tamiya ones are metric and are slightly different. You have to use a metric one or you will wreck your gears. I have made this mistake myself.

[jeepfreq]

Wondering where I can get a set of those tires and rims that are on that robbie chassis some pages back?

[Maxxcrazy]

Robbe wheels use a square instead of a hex. So they won't fit.

[Zillon]

I doubt it would be hard to make a custom hex for the wheel if you really wanted them.

[Doomed]

Its a Dodge Sidewinder, looks kind of strange but it will just get trashed anyways. Just wanted something to crash around with. Anyone know the price on a new chassis from Tamiya?

[Doomed]

.

[maX energ]

nice truck, what eles fits the pajero with out size problems?
i hear the black foot works or something like that...

[Doomed]

Thanks maX energ,

And yes the Blackfoot will work and looks great, that my next body after I trash this one!

[maX energ]

i had alot of fun driving this truck..sometime soon im gonna buy a Bruder Uni-mog body that comes with the 3 axle low boy trailer...im gonna use the trailer for my king hauler and the unimog for my Pajero..!..cant wait.

[Maxxcrazy]

I sold my pajero today...

[Doomed]

Sad to hear, are you going to get another one or just getting out?

[maX energ]

hey, update: i made my pajero have a super long wheel base (now i can use my clod buster body!!) but one problem...i mounted the rear body posts ...but im having trouble with the front..when i get the chance im gonna have drill a second set of holes... :( but its worth it! the truck looks awsome!! ....i used tmaxx steering links and the slider shafts...i used the stock upper shafts but i drilled out a different mounting position so they would work...the set-up is just waiting for the drilling of the front

[maX energ]

oh yea, how should i mount the rear shocks..the way on there now is ok but its not exactly the best...(any advice??)

[Maxxcrazy]

Originally posted by Doomed
Sad to hear, are you going to get another one or just getting out?

Just getting out. I never run it

[banditdrifter]

I have the best of both worlds, a txt, AND a Pajero. I was bored one night, so my friend and i wanted to do something cool. We dedcided on customizing our pajeros without spending a buck. I decided to drop mine and he lifted his. I put on old tl01 shocks, and a spare set of chromeis. I call it my lil thug mobile, because it is low with tinted windows, and lowpros on chromos. My friends was jacked up with blackfoot frontarms and suspesion and willy tires. IT LOOKED SICK! It was only 2 wheel drive, because the angle was too extreme in the front, and the rear axle is straining at the angle it's on, so it really isn't fuctional yet. Because of school I haven't had time to put my pajero back 2gethr. Oh well.

[extreme Pajero]

what motor should i get for my pajero

[Doomed]

I lot of people like to us the Magnetic Mayhem. Seems to work good.

[Doomed]

For people who aren't on the other site...

http://www.pbase.com/image/23565123/original.jpg

[maX energ]

thats awsome!

[Combatcm]

The pajero was one of those cars that you wanted but never got. I am selling my buggy to get one and hopefully I will have one by the end of the year. A stampede doesn't have the off road capability I want. I was thinking of getting an emaxx but I feel like it would be using the hummer in GTA3 to go up a near vertical wall...too easy. I've owned the TA02 race truck I think I killed the ball diff and that was it, it just fell apart with my screwdriver. I know how hard it is to find those scale wheels and those tires. What should I stock up on before I get it? Oh yea, the pictures of the pajero in the snow on page 3 made we want to get one.

[Doomed]

maX energ - Thanks!

Combatcm - I don't know of anything you need to stock up on. But if you going to be crawling, lock the diffs, and then get an ESC and oil shocks and you should be good-to-go.

p.s. the pic in the snow was the first day I had it. Really fun even stock!

[extreme Pajero]

could some one post a pic of the inside of there pajero

[Doomed]

Is there something you really want to see?

[Combatcm]

After trying many cars and losing interest in them really fast I found that I like scale off road cars. Driving them and pretending they are real cars (well, cars with 2000hp.) I wanted to use a savage bronco body, will it fit? Any other scale bodies that I could use?

[extreme Pajero]

whet size bearings and how many of each do i need to give my pejero full ball bearings

[SteveK]

The sizes are 5 x 8, 5 x 11, 6 x 12, and 10 x 15, all millimeters. The quantities, I'm not positive, so I'll look for the box with the bushings in there and get back to you.

I know you only need 1 pair each of 6 x 12 and 10 x 15mm bearings, they are for the front axles.

[novakguy]

hey i need some new stock tires does anyone know were to get some...link please i couldent find them on tower

[Doomed]

Your not going to find them on Tower. Try Tamiya directly or ebay.

[novakguy]

i couldent find them on ebay and tamiya was no help

[Doomed]

Ebay is it and miss, you need to know the part number for Tamiya. Should work. :confused:

[novakguy]

ok forget these stupid tires what elce can i use? i want something big like the stock tires but i dont want to use 2.2s i tried the part # on ebay and nothing showed up soo..what elce can i use? i want something that wont were down fast because i have brushless and i wore down hpi rally tires to slicks in 7 runs!

[extreme Pajero]

hey doomed what rims and tires do you use on your pajero and what shocks fit on the pajero

[SteveK]

You can use buggy-size Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs and HPI Super RS4 wheels. I have a set of rear tires, but I have seen fronts used as well: Read Hawgs are wider. They fit OK, some slight clearance issues, but nothing major, mostly on the body which can easily be trimmed.

[novakguy]

will those fit on hpi 26mm rims?:confused: thanks

[Doomed]

Here are links to the one's I have...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXCEA2

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXDU13


And just as SteveK says I just trimed the body a little and I was good-to-go.

I just went to my LHS and grabbed the cheapest 3 inch oil shock I could find. But I believe Duratrax work fine.

[novakguy]

do you know any that will fit on a 26mm rim?

[Doomed]

Not that I know, thats pretty small.
D

[novakguy]

the stock tires fit on 26mm rims

[SteveK]

I haven't bolted them up yet, but test-fitting shows that using the shafts and pistons from HPI RS4 Rally shocks inside the stock bodies and caps should work well. You'll need new rod-ends, Traxxas or Associated should work fine, some bladders, again Traxxas looks like it will fit, some new O-rings, and some spacers to keep the longer shafts and shorted ends from bottoming out too hard.

It would mean chopping up those nice fender wells molded to the chassis, but you could get some more travel out of the front end by rimming them and letting the front wheels come up more: There is still a lot of room between the chassis and ground when the front bottoms out. Too many people want to extend the travel down, where it's already pretty much maxxed out and won't help handling much.

If I could get my hands on a replacement chassis, I'd try some hacking and see what I could do with it.

[Doomed]

Originally posted by novakguy
the stock tires fit on 26mm rims

O.K. ? You said you didn't want the stock tires. The stock wheels are small so they can have a larger side wall on the stock tires to give a better scale appearance. Problem is the trend in RC cars is to have a big wheel and a short side-wall.

[Combatcm]

Got my pajero today. I'm amazed at the torque it has. I have an extra set of tires, so I'm going to mount one on the back. I'm getting bearings and possibly a new motor or an ESC today. I'm getting the bearings that tower reccomends, I hope that's all of them. I thought it came with a battery pack and a charger.

[SteveK]

Tamiya shows a truck with a battery and charger on their site, but says it's not included except in some countries as a bonus. The battery wouldn't have been that great, and the charger is one of those ~4-hour wall chargers, so I wouldn't even recommend using it.

An ESC makes a big difference, I recommend the Futaba MC230CR. You'll want a set of oil shocks, the $20 4-pack of Tamiya CVA shocks should fit the bill nicely.

[Combatcm]

I just bought $150 worth of stuff, bearings, shocks, tires, rims, screws and some other stuff. Everything is fitting good. I love my new rims.

[Doomed]

Let's see 'um on the truck!

[Combatcm]

I was up till 3am working on in. I finished the bearings and the shocks. I mixed up shock oil though, I put 80wt in it by accident. Clear losi shock oil is 20wt and 80wt, I bought the 80wt. The shocks work good, It took some traxxas shoulder bolts to mount them. They are both 3" front competition shocks from duratrax. I didn't want 4" in the back because I don't like the back high and the lack of up travel. I use my stampede body as a beater body and my pajero just sits on my dresser in all its glory. I haven't had a chance yet, but I could see this thing climb up some real steep hills. What's some good wt for the shocks?

[Combatcm]

Oh yea for full bearing you need 3 5X8, 11 5X11, 2 6X12, and 2 10X15 ( I paid $5 for 1 of these). Here is a picture of the suspension.

[SteveK]

Not bad. Are those HPI super-size wheels? If so then Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs will fit for harder surfaces (My RS4 Rally's stock tires didn't like asphalt for very long, though I was sliding a good bit), and if you get the 1/10th scale wheels, the stock tires will fit them.

80 weight sounds pretty heavy, but since it's a top-heavy truck you don't want to go too light. Maybe 40 weight for starters? It should be OK for crawling and slow speeds for now, but for faster off-roading the suspension action will be pretty slow.

[4wdmt]

SteveK, those tamiya cva shocks you just mentioned, are those Tamiya CVA Short Shock Unit Set II (product no. 50520), or there are other variants? i want to make sure ill be ordering the right one. thank you.

BTW, anyone can comment with the hi-tec EZX-R esc? its a bit cheaper :D , just to replace the msc. thanks.

[Janders]

Originally posted by SteveK
...(My RS4 Rally's stock tires didn't like asphalt for very long, though I was sliding a good bit) ......... [/B]
Very true, the Rally 'pin tires' like those pictured above break of the pins and wear very quickly on pavement/asphalt. They are nice for dirt surfaces howver, and last much longer if kept off the road(or at least don't do too many powerslides across the asphalt :p )

[Combatcm]

Yea, they are HPI wheels and tires. The tires wont see pavement though, just grass and dirt. I didn't glue the tires so when and if they wear out I can change them easily, Although I should have because this thing has enough torque to rip them off. This thing has a lot of torque steer.

I put ofna hard grease in the rear diff and some other hard grease in the front. Ofna hard grease means hard. I put the other hard grease in the front and it didn't do anything. Those greases are expensive, does anyone know a cheaper one? or at least a substitute? I want the diff to be just hard enough to spin one wheel by hand and spin the whole tranny, not just the other wheel.

The suspension in the front is softer than the rear with the same settings. I want to do some mild rock crawling and heavy rally action. Right now the rear end bounces all over in grass.

I daydream about having mini dakar races through desert sand. Filling an RC track with 4 foot high dunes of desert dirt would be awesome. If I had a beach around here that's all the car would see. I want to see sanctioned cross country tracks.

I haven't heard about transmission problems, anyone have any? The half inch long gears wont be a problem, but what about the spur.

Oh yea, you can put full size dirt works tires on it if they are traxxas front rims for the stampede. They are really offset with the hex nearly flush with the rim. if you feel like getting out of scale give those a try. I would never trim the stock body, but if you have a beater give it a try.

[birdy233]

Hilux with Jero tires!

[SteveK]

There are a couple of CVA shock sets, and I'm not positive of the difference between them: CVA Short, Mini, Super, I'm not positive if there are any major differences.

But the truck actually comes with CVA shock bodies and caps already: They just left out the 'real' pistons and shafts, and the seals. I haven't bolted mine up, but test-fitting shows that the following should work:
- HPI RS4 Rally shock shafts (3x36mm), pistons, bladders, and seals.
- Associated or Traxxas lower shock ends.
- Spacers underneath the lower spring perch to keep the now longer shaft from bottoming out.

[4wdmt]

thanks Steve. i also wonder if you can buy replacement bodies for this rally sport pajero? if ever, where?

[Doomed]

The clear lexan Pajero XB body is about $50 from Tamiya.

[Rally Dude evo2]

REALLY!? ARE YOU SURE? $50? :D :D :D

[Rally Dude evo2]

:( I couldn't find it :(
it was not even on the parts list

[Combatcm]

If you want a pajero body and the tires your going to pay over $80. The tires are kit specific though. Try getting some tamiya mammoth dump truck tires, some REAL monster truck tires. I don't know why tamiya doesn't sell them, if any tamiya scale tires were sold they would sell a lot of them. I'm watching some pajero tires on ebay and it is at $25 and 4 days left. Oh yea, your best bet would be to call tamiya.

[SteveK]

You can mount other bodies, with little more than new posts and slightly extended wheelbase. The stock driveshaft even has enough extra that you might not need a longer one for most bodies. For longer wheelbases, try a Traxxas slider shaft.

I have a Bolink Blazer and it drops on almost perfectly.

[Rally Dude evo2]

If /when I get a pajero this will be my basher body it would look sweet.. I think

[SteveK]

That body is cool, but it's about 2" too wide to fit properly. It's meant to clear the wheels on buggies like the RC10, and is a good bit wider than the Pajero.

[Combatcm]

I want to get this body for a beater. Would it work? Oh yea, I put my traxxas tires on my pajero with dirt works. The work fine but it rubs on the rear body mount a little, I need to limit uptravel maybe a few mm. I'm going to try to mount the pajero body on it, but its going to require a lot of body lift. I'll take a picture if/when it gets done.

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/p/parc6391.jpg

[Combatcm]

I did it, just over an hour later and I had all the needed parts and as a matter a fact YOU do too.

[Combatcm]

The rear shock mounts were simply flipped over and screwed in upside down on top. The fronts use a slightly more complex process.

Take a stock pajero shock and unscrew the shock and take the shaft out. After that, unscrew the bottom shock cap and use the shaft to scoop out the o rings in the shock bottom. Now cut the threaded part of the shock bottom flush off, then get the top shock cap and cut the loop thing at the top flush off. Drill a 1/8 inch hole (dremel size) centered in the shock cap. Screw the shock cap on the shock body. Take the shaft and use that as the body mount screw. Pass it up through the body mount hole and through the shock and screw on the metal body mount. As you screw the body mount in the cap will bend in, make it bend a little then stop screwing it in, or use a washer on top so it doesn't bend. This requires no cutting of the chassis. These body mounts aren't that ghetto, so they probably wont break in a roll or a tough landing. Confused? Look at the picture.

Wow, I'm awesome!

[4wdmt]

thanks Doomed. but i cant find the lexan body on etamiya (can you provide a link?). are there any other shops selling it or you have to order/call directly at tamiya?

Combatcm, nice ride. are you still using the stock msc?

[Doomed]

I called Tamiya directly so I have never looked for a link. I could look for the part number and post it if you want. I just don't have it handy at work. It might be the part number thats in the manual on th e back showing part #'s. You could call them with that number and ask if thats the clear one.

[SteveK]

Originally posted by Combatcm
I want to get this body for a beater. Would it work? Oh yea, I put my traxxas tires on my pajero with dirt works. The work fine but it rubs on the rear body mount a little, I need to limit uptravel maybe a few mm. I'm going to try to mount the pajero body on it, but its going to require a lot of body lift. I'll take a picture if/when it gets done.

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/p/parc6391.jpg

I'm sure it will, the only hangup with new bodies is the wheelbase. I have a Parma Dodge Ram, which has a similar wheelbase, and the Pajero needs some stretching of the rear links to work. I believe that just using the second set of link mounts, originally for the Honda CRV body, that it will work with the stock links.

[Rally Dude evo2]

Too bad that toyota body won't fit :( .. That explorer body would be sweet though, and maybe if you cut the front bumper off, or half way off... eh, too bad I HATE Fords. It would be sweet though.

[SteveK]

How about these:
http://www.parmapse.com/catpics/10379.jpg

http://www.bolink.com/bodies/2333.gif

http://www.parmapse.com/catpics/10380.jpg

http://www.parmapse.com/catpics/10193.jpg

http://www.parmapse.com/catpics/10204.jpg

http://www.parmapse.com/catpics/10244.jpg

http://www.parmapse.com/catpics/10161.jpg

http://www.parmapse.com/catpics/10200.jpg

http://www.parmapse.com/catpics/10197.jpg

http://www.parmapse.com/catpics/10194.jpg

Plus a ton more from Parma, Bolink, and Pro-Line.

[Doomed]

Originally posted by SteveK
That body is cool, but it's about 2" too wide to fit properly. It's meant to clear the wheels on buggies like the RC10, and is a good bit wider than the Pajero.

I was thinking about this (not knowing the dimensions of the Toyo body) but the 2.2 stick out on the stock Pajero body pretty far. So with it being " a good bit wider than the Pajero" the 2.2's might just fit under the Toyo body. It all depends on where the wheel wells line up. Might need to do some creative trimming. Worth a look IMHO just because I like the body. Who makes the body?

[chuckwagon123]

How much is a new RTR XB pajero? And wher ewould I get one online?

Is this a good price? (http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3169696342&category=44022)

[Combatcm]

That body is an associated toyota baja pickup body. About that ebay item. I'm no tamiya expert or historian, but that wrangler body might be an old (or rare) one, and people might pay a little more for it. It also has a broken hub. That might be kind of hard to get. Your better off getting one from tower. They usually have specials for $10 discounts for how much your going to spend. The 2.2's total width is 9 inches. If you find a nice body 7 or 8 inches wide, whats wrong with the wheels fitting in the body? I'd try that body with the bigger tires.

I need to know about diff grease. 3.99 to fill 2 diffs is very expensive. I used ofna hard, which IS hard, not like tamiya hard. I'd lock them, but I don't like the stress it does when driving on multi surfaces. I'd like to make them give a little in a high traction surface. I've heard of auto stores, do they have anything I need?

[Doomed]

Originally posted by chuckwagon123
How much is a new RTR XB pajero? And wher ewould I get one online?

Is this a good price? (http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3169696342&category=44022)

Here you go...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUV00&P=7

[Doomed]

Originally posted by Combatcm
That body is an associated toyota baja pickup body.


I figured that much out, considering its say RC10 on the hood and its sitting on one!:)
I was just wondering if someone else is selling it since it not still offered by Associated.

[SteveK]

Tower still lists that Toyota body as being available, just not until February. For a width comparison, an old-style RC10's buggy wheels would fit just about perfectly into those wheelwells. Those are old-school truck conversion wheels, with the hub offset way to the inside.


Regarding that Jeep on ebay, that's a good price, for now, but with an original plastic Wrangler body, expect it to go really high. If you can get it for about $200, snag it.

[Doomed]

Ah, yes, I did a search on "RC10", no dice. Put in "baja", its the first one! Thanks Steve.

[Combatcm]

What's wrong here?

Used pajero rims and new tires,

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3169540456&category=44022

That's a lot!

Wow a NEW pajero body and new rims and tires, if the previous auction was $51 for used rims and new tires this is going to cost a lot!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3169511124&category=44028

Nope! I hope the seller knows what he did, he could have put that auction for over $80 and there would have been takers.

After seeing the prices that those tires are going for I'll just keep them for show.

[SteveK]

Hmm. If these tires didn't last practically forever, I might consider selling them too.

Since the trucks are under $200, you could make 50% of the cost back selling the wheels, tires, and body. More if you sold the radio too (No dual-rate and 27mhz: The rest of my stuff is 75).

[4wdmt]

guys, i just ordered a rally pajero rtr. just want to ask you guys the following.
1. aside from the esc, BBs and oil shocks. what other worthy mods do i need to install on my pajero.
2. what parts that easily break.
3. any pre-run ritual that i should do to check my unit before running it the first time.

thank you for any reply.

[Doomed]

Sounds like you have the basics down. I would check all the screws, especially in the suspension. RTR's tend to have loose screws.

Oh and congrats!

[SteveK]

4wdmt-

You named the big 3 hop-ups for that truck. You can do all sorts of things like modify the suspension, add larger tires, that sort of stuff, but really with just oil shocks and bearings it will be a tank as it is.

The only other hop-up I would really recommend is to make some sturdier 4-link bars: The plastic ones flex easily, especially with oil shocks, and you only have two wheelbase options. I used some Traxxas T-Maxx tie-rods (I forget the part #) and rod-ends for the lower ones. The uppers are OK as is, but you could make new ones out of shorter tie-rods and Traxxas ends as well.

The only downside is you have to make rear shock mounts for the tranny, but that's not hard: Some aluminum angle-stock should work fine.

[4wdmt]

thank you for your replies. i will run it stock, then upgrade from there. but esc, bbs and shocks are my top priority. are there any ball bearing set already packed for the pajero? what ESCs are you guys using? i will stick with the stock gearing, how fast does this go?

my only concern is the body, i dont want to trash the beatiful realistic body.

[SteveK]

Yeah, it is a nice body. You can drop on a Bolink S10 Blazer almost directly, maybe scootch the wheelwells a little closer together, for the shorter wheelbase of the Pajero.

I THINK I remember a Parma Dodge Ram fitting OK if I moved the suspension links to the rearward holes (For the longer wheelbase Honda CRV body). I don't remember if the stock driveshaft stretched enough, but I want to try a 5mm Traxxas slider (Try a Rustler or Stampede, maybe cut it down). Anybody have one of those trucks that they could 'borrow' the slider for a little while and try this out?

For an ESC, I love my Futaba MC230. It's cheap, smooth, and very small. The only downside might be the 20 turn motor limit, but I don't really go below 20 turns in any of my cars or trucks, so it doesn't bother me.

The Pajero will only do about 13mph stock, but that's OK because it has a high center of gravity that makes it tippy at high speed, and with the stock gearing it has enough torque to climb over anything it can get it's tires on.

[Combatcm]

I'd leave the ESC last. Busting the tranny with an MSC and the stock motor would take a while, and I like the reverse on demand. Bearings are going to cost about $40. For shocks, if you want articulation, go with 4" in back and 3" in front. If you want a realistic looking level body go with 3" front and back, those are what the stock shocks are, a shock set up will be at most $50. I don't want to trash the body either, I run it with a S10 body that I painted 5 years ago with fascolor on the outside, before I knew to paint the inside. For ball bearings, use 3 5X8, 11 5X11, 2 6X12, and 2 10X15. I just purchased a venom 21T fireball motor, I needed a bit more speed. It's got a lot of torque and it is borderline what the jero can handle. 13mph stock sounds about good. Oh yea, can someone take a close up pic of where and how they mounted the shocks in back with the traxxas rods (I know they don't attach to the rods)?

[4wdmt]

thank you. very informative replies. so, whats the product number of the lexan bodies you guys are using? i will borrow the super rooster i have on my TXT-1 and use it for jero for the meantime.

[egdinger]

I just ordered one of these. Is it true that I can convert the stock shocks to oilfiled? I already have an esc, but can I run it on the stock bearings (bushings) for a while or should I upgrade right away? Oh are there any bearings in it, or does it have all bushings.

[Combatcm]

Really, I don't know why I even got bearings right away. It's more of a thing you feel like you NEED to get. For the pajero bearings for speed are not necessary, neither for runtimes. The gearing is so low you will not notice a difference. Yup, all shocks can be swapped, although you might need to get the right screws. It's all bushings.

I currently am using my 2.2" truck tires and they are awesome. I think I might actually sell the stock tires. They are awesome but they are more eye candy than anything. Eventually I want to use the RS4 rally tires at a track and get the lowest turn motor that won't blow from the gearing. I figure I might be able to get a 15 turn in it with the torquey gearing and the low rollout from the tires. I made a front skid plate out of sheet aluminum and a front guard also. I might take a few new pictures soon.

[egdinger]

On the shocks I thought I read that by installing seals on the shocks the could be converted to oil filled, not friction. What is the stock gearing? What kinda rims can I use, I think I'll keep the stock tires around, I have a f-150 from tamiya and it uses the same.

[4wdmt]

egdinger, they say you just need the seal and o-rings and you will be able to convert it to oil shocks. ill just wait for mine and check those friction shocks myself and buy what ever necessary.

Combatcm. ill get bbs later also. ill check how this jero run first. so far, my esc and battery are already ready.

Doomed, were you able to check the part no. for the clear lexan pajero body? thanks.

how about motor heat sink guys? is it necessary? i see that, half of the motor is enclosed. thanks

[SteveK]

Shocks-
The kit shocks are just CVA's without proper seals, bladders, or pistons/shafts. You can see by the long rod-end that they are actually shorter touring car shocks made longer to fit the chassis.

Motor heatsink-
I mounted a blue TC3 unit just for the heck of it and it works well. It was hot after a run, but the plastic below the motor was noticeable cooler. For only about $10 and such little extra weight, I say go for it.

[Doomed]

4wdmt- body part# 1825200, if you call Tamiya make sure you confirm with them its clear.

[4wdmt]

thank you guys. now, i have another question, will the body of MTP, CRV, MU and wrangler will fit the RTR jero? will it need some extra parts to be able to mount it?

[egdinger]

You need the body mounts from the older kits. Don't know the part number though.

[creech]

Anyone have any thoughts about trying to adapt this body to fit the jero? I know it is an MT sized body, but I was thinking with a little extention on the rear drivetrain and a larger tire with a good offset it may work. Any opinions welcome.

Toyota Land Cruiser Part #3167-00

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline.html

[Doomed]

Thats a cool body, they don't give the size of it but if you had access to an T/E Maxx you would have a really good idea.

[creech]

Well, wheelbase on a T-Maxx (from the Traxxas website) is 12". I don't think this would be too hard to achieve. Only thing stopping it would be width in my opinion. I called my hobby shop, and unfortunately they have to order in the item - therefor it falls under their no return policy. If not I would be waiting for it to arrive right now :/

[4wdmt]

guys, how about stampede bodies, will they fit the jero chassis?

what motors are you using? how "low" can you only go so that the jero wont tip over easily? but will give a decent speed and lots of torque? thank you.

few days more, i can almost see it now...later.

[egdinger]

I have a jeep body made by proline for the e/t-maxx, when my jero comes in (tomarro hopfully, can't wait) I'll test fit it and see how it looks.

[creech]

Thanks man!

[Doomed]

Yes, let us know!

[SARacer]

In the meantime........

I was interested in buying this car (XB Pajero) but i was wondering if any of you people can answer some questions that i have.

How many ball-bearing does the entire truck need?
(i have read the entire thread and couldn't find a defenite answer)

What parts break easily?

How capable is it off road?

thanks for your time

[Combatcm]

For ball bearings, use 3 5X8, 11 5X11, 2 6X12, and 2 10X15. 0 parts break easy. I wouldn't be suprised if everybody who owns one of these never broke a part. If you run them right you won't break anything. It is not a jump truck. I have a heavy greased rear diff and it had all the off road capability I need. Lock them, and if a wheel is touching the ground it'll go.

[egdinger]

Well its okay length wise, You gonna have to use the back holes, the ones for the crv. Width I'm not so sure about, I havn't trimmed out the wheel wells out yet, but it look like it would sit over the tires, or past them. I wasn't too bad though, just depends on how you like your body looking. I'm not sure how the width is on the jeep compared to the fj-40 though.

[creech]

Think I am gonna bite the bullet and order one. With 2.2s I think it may work. *crosses fingers*

[egdinger]

with 2.2s I think it would look fine. What are some compatable wheels, and hexes. Is there any way to take a little slop out of the steering?

[SARacer]

thanks for the help ;)

[egdinger]

Do the G parts still come with the diff locking pieces? Also what 2.2 in wheels fit?

[SteveK]

As far as I know, the G parts bag does include the manual locking parts, and I believe that part will fit the front diff as well.

For 2.2" wheels you will want a 12mm hex wheel with a lot of offset, to clear the chassis and suspension.

[tamiyadude]

I just ordered a new Pajero from Tower! WOOHOO! :D

I had the Pajero Metaltop and this is actually the second XB Pajero I've bought, but I haven't had one for a couple of years and I'm happy to be getting another :D

SteveK, your right about the wheels man! The stock S-10/f-150/pajero wheels seem to have 2 or 3mm offset. I like the HPI stock car wheels, but they are zero offset. I had them on one of my TA02 trucks and they made the truck noticably more narrow.

TB

[Combatcm]

Can you you silicone dill oil? Everybody uses them in buggies and I never heard of it being used in other cars. Is it because it might leak out? If it doe, can't I just put some silicone sealant on it.

Oh yea, What about locking a diff with silicone sealant, it would peel right off when you want to take it off.

[Combatcm]

Yea, I don't know what "dill oil" is either :)

[egdinger]

So does dill oil have any thing to do shocks? Can you try repeating that last post in english, please.

[Combatcm]

No, I know know why I spelled it "dill oil" I meant silicone diff oil. I want to know why its used in buggies all the time and not in stadium trucks and such.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZT5&P=7

[Doomed]

I think it would work fine but for what your thinking it will leak out to the other gears. Not good. You could try to seal the diff some how, maybe.

[egdinger]

Ah, diff oil now I get it. The reason 1/8th scale buggies use it and stadium trucks don't is that the trucks use ball diffs, not gear diffs. I belive it would leak out in tha pajero because the diffs arn't sealed. I might be possible to seal the front diff, but I'm not to sure of the rear one because of the the holes for the spider gear shafts.

[Combatcm]

What about filling it with silicone sealant to lock it? I'm guessing it would peel right off when your done.

For rock crawling, did anyone ever try tires without inserts? I could imagine with prolines the tire would give a lot on rock faces for more traction.

I can't wait for all this stupid snow to melt!

[4wdmt]

got mine guys, woohoo. wow, the lexan body sure looks nice. i just wish i have a digicam. anyways, the first thing i did is take off my txt super rooster and install it on my new jero. the stock speed is just right for me since i am driving it indoors, snow is about 6in outside. cant wait to drive it outdoors.

guys, did you glue your tires? it is mentioned in the manual but do i really need to? i dont see any slipping when i grab full throttle on high bite surface.

i dont know if its applicable, but i used silly putty in my txt-1 diffs and up to this time they hold up pretty well and "almost" lock both the f and r diffs. the nice thing about it is, you can take it off to restore the diffs action again.

[Combatcm]

No, you don't need to glue them.

[SteveK]

I don't think you need to glue them either, but if on the off chance some dirt does get in there, they could possibly slip. I might use a bead of silicone on each side just to be safe maybe.

[SteveK]

Check ahoy:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=58324

This is awesome. It should mean no shortage or XC (Cross Country, the designation for the Pajero chassis) in the future. I might buy the whole kit just for the heck of it, instead of just body and tires/wheels.

[Combatcm]

That things sweet, I hope they make a whole bunch of cross country chassis cars. And maybe new bodies, and maybe aluminum parts.

[SARacer]

that would be one sweet looking truck :D

[4wdmt]

thanks guys. i hope this new xc will still have a pre-finished body. i hate putting large stickers to lexan :D .

[4wdmt]

guys, check the tamiya inc. home page (english), they have the tuoareg laxan body looking like the real thing, awesome. hmmm, do you think this will be sold as xb again?

[SteveK]

Sounds like it might be a kit, because they mention it having markings for multiple cars, an ESC, and Speed Tuned motor. Plus they say 'kit' and not 'XB'.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/images/product/300/58324/header_1.jpg

Introducing to the Tamiya lineup the powerful, durable, stylish, speedy and all-mighty 2004 Dakar Rally Volkswagen Touareg. Nothing but a Tamiya cross country chassis could do the Touareg true justice.

About the Touareg Dakar Rally
Making its debut in this year’s Dakar Rally, unquestionably the toughest rally in the world, the expectations of the Touareg team was simple, just finish the race. With a 57% retirement rate in the car category, making it one of the toughest Dakar rallies ever, not only did the Touareg meet these expectations, it superceded them. B. Saby in car no. 224 finished 6th overall, and the “Queen of the Desert” J. Kleinschmidt, the only ever female winner of the Rally, took out 1st place in stage 16, and secured 4 other top-5 stage finishes to climb from 123rd place to finish 17th overall. The Touareg rally version features large air-intakes on the roof and bonnet, and cleaning fan in the cockpit, an indispensable fitting for desert running. The Touareg displayed its power, maneuverability and speed in its debut year, a declaration of things to come.

About the Model

* Long wheelbase 4WD cross country chassis (based on the 58178 Honda CR-V)
* Kit includes TEU-101BK electronic speed control
* Powered by an RS-540 Sports Tuned Motor
* Markings for car No. 204 (Kleinschmidt/Pons) and No. 224 (Saby/Stevenson)



Man, it stinks in here because that thing is the.....

[Doomed]

Originally posted by SteveK
Check ahoy:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=58324



Yeah, I read that it will have the longer wheel base like the CRV. Cool new kit/XB.
Dana

[SteveK]

Yes, the Tamiya.com description says it uses the Honda CRV chassis, with is basically identical to all the other kits: They just moved the shocks and suspension links to the rearmost holes in the chassis. I don't know what they did about the driveshaft.

Looking at the real Race Touareg, the Tamiya body is a little off, around the rocker panels, but I assume that it's an early production model and the real one will be a little more accurate.

http://raid.racing-live.com/photos/2004/dakar/diapo_185.jpg

Below is actually the first Dakar Touareg, built for the 2003 event. It was a 2WD buggy, along the lines of the Jean-Luis Schlesser Renault Megane and now Ford Focus cars. The theory is be light and nimble to float across the sand, rather than rely on 4WD to power through it.

http://raid.racing-live.com/photos/2003/dakar/diapo_045.jpg

The buggy was a diesel, which are working better now than in the past, but it suffered from a lack of top speed on the open sections. I assume this was really just a test vehicle, to save the team from having to develop a new car (The 2004 Race Touareg) and experience the Dakar for the first time. I don't even know if the Touareg was out when the 2003 car was run.

[Combatcm]

Now all we need is a XB kamaz.

[Doomed]

Ah yes the big trucks...


http://www.moscowtimes.ru/photos/large/2004_02/2004_02_04/kamaz_2.jpg

[Doomed]

What I would like to see...

http://www.4x4news.co.uk/n/pr25oct2002.jpg

[Rally Dude evo2]

What would be sweet is a new Pajero EVO (this years Dakar version) on the XC, Or last year's with the bigger spoiler in the back. I would buy that in a hearbeat.

[Rally Dude evo2]

Check out this bull bar http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images/view?back=http%3a//images.search.yahoo.com/search/images%3fp=Tamiya%2bpajero&h=585&w=780&imgcurl=www.bauteil1.de/images/XC%2520Rammschutz/Pajero%2520rot2.JPG&imgurl=www.bauteil1.de/images/XC%2520Rammschutz/Pajero%2520rot2.JPG&name=%3cb%3ePajero%3c/b%3e+rot2.JPG&p=Tamiya+pajero&rurl=http%3a//www.bauteil1.de/xc_rammschutz.htm&rcurl=http%3a//www.bauteil1.de/xc_rammschutz.htm&type=&no=18&tt=92

[Rally Dude evo2]

That website also has a crazy custom rock crawling chassis baised on the XC.
http://www.bauteil1.de/Trialchassis1-12.htm

[SteveK]

Actually I don't think there are any XC parts on that: You can buy axles and transmissions like that, at somewhat reasonable prices (Especially the axles) and make yourself a crawler for less than you'd think. I would love to do that when I can spare the cash, and find one of those Mercedes Unimog bodies (Most people use some kind of toy).

It's not really necessary though: The Pajero is a stout crawler out of the box. As long as the tires are touching the surface, it will get over anything.

[tamiyadude]

I've had that website saved in my favorites for a long time now. They make some sweet parts for the XC, including a pushbar, several styles of XC aluminum wheels, and this trick a$$ aluminum steering setup:

http://www.bauteil1.de/xc_lenkung.htm


A couple of the guys from R*C*M*T have bought the wheels and the steering parts and they are supposed to be top notch quality. I think the steering parts are around $45 US.

[Combatcm]

The chassis looks so simple, I bet it will never break. I bet the gears are metal also.

[Rally Dude evo2]

I think the gearbox is another costom piece. It has pretty good looking metal gears and converts the power to both axles in a not very complex looking design. And when I said the chassis was baised on XC, I meant size and main dimentions. :)
http://www.bauteil1.de/Getriebe.htm

[egdinger]

I bet you could run a big motor (:D) through there with out those gear breaking. Arn't those axles made by robbe ? I think they even have locking axles, those would be cool.

[Combatcm]

I can't find the G parts for the pajero anywhere, so I figured you could get these,

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGK41&P=Z

and glue the 3 mini bevel gears onto the shafts, so you could have a normal diff, and switch them out. I believe the actual diff lock thing looked like that, but how can you make the gears stick on the shafts real good?

[egdinger]

The original g-part locker didn't look like that, It was like the bigger gears in there only oppistie so it would hold them together.
| <-3 prong thing
\ \ |/ /<-gear
| ||| |
| ||| |
/ / |\ \
|^locker

hope that makes sense, and turns out okay. I also couldn't find a picture of the piece, but I can get the tamiya part number if that would be of any help in finding a picture.

[Combatcm]

I just got a set of these

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/d/dtxc5102.jpg

These tires fit the HPI wheels. They are ony $4 a pair and they are discontinued, I was going to order a bunch of them. I could only find the paddles on another site.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD297&P=7

[Rally Dude evo2]

Hey, ummm... is this a TRF XC racing Chassis or what?
http://www.tamiya.com/japan/rc/kaizou/010pajero/pajero.htm

[SARacer]

It looks to be a amphibious XC kit. If you use the altavista translating tool (Japanese to English) , you are able to read and understand it slightly. Also, hit the back button on that page and there are other cool custom projects. ;)

[Combatcm]

Those car look to be factory made by tamiya. They all look professionally done. My favorite is the tracked rally car.

[4wdmt]

guys, any idea if that TRF jero will be released in the future? i can see it now, driving thru snow, mud, pool of water....yes.

[Combatcm]

I'm gonna make it.

[Rally Dude evo2]

Wow, I don't even have a Pajero yet :( . I was going to get one then I got layed off and spent my last check on a PS2... I don't even have an off road RC yet and it is driving me crazy! I need to be able to do some off pavement driving! But when I do get the money I will be in another dilemma, because I won't be able to decide between the Pajero, F-150 race truck, or maybe the new Kyosho twin force..... :confused:

[Combatcm]

The way I figure it is all cars can drive on road, onroad can't drive offroad. All my cars are off road. Onroad cars are too precision for me.

I just got a pathfinder body and I need to extend the wheelbase. I tried using traxxas slider shafts, but they were almost the same size as the stock shaft. I'll try to find a way and I'll tell you my findings.

[Combatcm]

I did it, I took 2 universal axles from my buggy parts and cut a piece of antenna tube to length. I JB welded them it and here it is,

[Janders]

now lets see some picks running, with the bodyYou should be able to mod it for a little more clearance and articulation now too :)

[Combatcm]

I have a new long axle mod I just found out.

You need 1 savage axle,

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLD8&P=7

and 2 ofna joints,

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNS36&P=7

The joints fit perfect on the slotted shafts (I know, I have them), and the axle is a perfect length. If nobody wants to try it out, I'll order some up in the next 2 or 3 weeks. You heard it here first!

About my axle, I was afraid it wouldn't stand up to abuse, but I lifted the rear wheels up and dropped it at full thottle and it didn't break. Another thing is that it doesn't extend, but it doesn't matter, it still works. I am satisfied with the axle.

Here is a picture of how my body will mount.

[extreme Pajero]

Combatcm what body is that and where did you get it from?

any way does any one think i can fit e-maxx shocks on my pajero

[Combatcm]

The body is a parma trailblazer body. Right now I'm in the process of painting it. I'm going to paint it yellow and then back it all with black, so it is darker.

you can get the body from tower. My next body is going to be an explorer, blazer, saturn vue, explorer sport trac, or a bronco

Maxx shocks are WAY too big for it.

Remember, you need the longer axle for the body, unless you want a FWD SUV.

[SteveK]

Here is a new pic from the Nuremberg Toy Fair. Looks like they won't be curving the side rocker panels under like the real truck. Bummer, but overall looks sweet.

[Doomed]

Very cool.

[Janders]

I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to make a lower mount that curves in the sides

[Combatcm]

It's not the best paintjob in the world but it sure looks good on the truck. I used strips of lexan to extend the rear mounts. I now can use the pajero body as a beater. You can make any body look 100X better by simply adding side mirrors.

[extreme Pajero]

i put the e-maxx shocks on my pajero

[Combatcm]

They aren't "e-maxx" shocks, they are 4" shocks, the stampede uses them on the rear, as do a lot of MT's. Now If someone found out a way to put savage shocks on it that would be something.

Did you put them on the back or the front or both?

Oh yea, I'd like to see pictures, any pictures or random pictures of anyones pajero, it'll liven up the thread a bit.

[egdinger]

heres a picture on the first (second?) day of owning my pajero. IT showing off the masive arcticulation!

[Doomed]

Combatcm- the new body looks good!

egdinger- they are really fun even stock, but once you lock the diffs look out.

[RCBuddha]

If anyone is interested, I have a stock pajero available for sale to a loving home. I have had no time to play with it so it needs a new home. email me: rcbuddha@hotmail.com

I'll have pics online in a day or two...

Buddha

[extreme Pajero]

Combatcm the body looks great i said there emaxx shocks because i took them off my emaxx. and i am going to buy some savage shocks and put them on the front and back. as sone as i do that i will post a picture of it

[Combatcm]

This is how I would put savage shocks on it. It would work front and back.

[egdinger]

Its not stock anymore, that picture was just stock. I have trimed the bumper, locked the rear diff, and threw an esc in there. Totaly different beast now, but my body is cracking in the rear bumper. anyone else have this problem?

[SteveK]

No, but I can easily see it happening, the way the rear body posts support all the weight right on the tailgate area.

A set of tall vertical posts would help eliminate that. Just brace them to keep them from wobbling. You could also extend the life of the rear of the body by doubling up the mounting area. Servo-tape a piece of Lexan over the holes, preferably one long piece over both, and drill it out. That should help toughen up the rear of the body.

[Combatcm]

**WARNING**

The following picture is very graphic

I was having too much fun driving it on pavement. I drove really fast and the car would drive on two wheels for 10 feet, fly up on its side and roll 4 or 5 times. Just trying to get it to full speed was a challenge. The huge roto start motor I put in it made it torque steer so much it'll keel over and flip at full speed. After, I drove it up a snow hill only to hear a horrible CLICK CLICK CLICK noise everytime I pulled the trigger. I looked inside and though it just came out of the cup. I went inside and took the hub off only to see the axle twisted 90 degrees and bent. I hot glued the diff shut and now I'm going to try to get it open. I'm going to try to bend the axles back or find my old ones from my S10.

If your car is ever going to see pavement, even one time, don't lock the front diff.

[SteveK]

You might also want to limit the down-travel a bit to help prevent something like that (More the bending than the twisting): People keep wanting to slap on longer shocks in the front for more travel, but they are already close to maxed out in the direction. The best bet is to trim the front 'fenders' off the chassis and let the wheels come up more.

[SteveK]

OK, too some measurements of the stock rear suspension links with my digital calipers (Christmas present, pretty sweet little unit).

The upper links come in at roughly 52.71mm, or a hair over 2" (2.074" to be precise). The lower links are 92.63mm, or 3.65". Those distances are to the center of each ball.

Since picking out the centerline is very difficult I just remove the balls from each link, took a measurement from inside edge to inside edge of each hole, then outside edge to outside edge of each hole, and averaged them.

I will do something similar with Traxxas rod-ends, finding the distance from the center of each ball to the back end of the rod-end, so you can just multiply that by two and subtract that total from the overall length you need. Then just make there there is that much space between the two rod-ends and you are as close as you can reasonably get with these things.

The new DuBro rod-ends look pretty good, I may have to give them a try soon.

[4wdmt]

warning: after just a day of "normal" running with my almost new pajero XB. i notice something funny with the suspension. sure enough, the screws at the front and rear suspension that goes thru the ball connectors came loose, seems they skip putting thread locks for those metal to metal connections. then i run it again when i hear something grinding at the rear diffs. i opened it up, the little 3 screws for the rear diff gear case all backed out. after, again putting TL, i also put some on the pinion setscrew as well on the propeller joint. they dont have thread locks on it. wow, considering its an XB built :D. is it just me or someone else got the same experience? anyway, if your jero is new, just run through those metal to metal part. its better to be safe than sorry.

[Combatcm]

I put CA in all my plastic screw holes. They will hold tighter and strip less.

[hondafather]

IS this truck any good. I like the way it looks. Can i go pretty fast with it.

[SteveK]

Good? Yes. Fast? No, not very.

With a stock 540 motor and the smaller pinion it does about 13mph with bushings (According to RCCA's review). There are a lot of bushings, so adding bearings could add an extra MPH, maybe 2. With a hotter motor and gearing up you could get more speed, but you might sacrifice the killer torque the truck has, which is really the strong point: It can climb anything it can get it's wheels on.

I don't know that the truck is a speed machine anyway: Even with the stock motor the truck will barrel-roll if you turn sharply at high speed. There are Tamiya lowering kits floating around eBay (Basically just low-profile tires and short shock ends: You can do it yourself no problem), and that should help on-road, but off-road it doesn't have the suspension to fly along like a racing truck.

[Combatcm]

I can honestly say I shouldn't have bought bearings. A pajero running in sand and snow or water will rust up the bearings pretty good and get them dirty. Any performance gain is not noticible. It's just more maintenance. And submerging your pajero is not good for bearings (you'll want to). Check out this guys videos.

http://tamiyacar5.mysite.freeserve.com/

[SteveK]

That looks like fun, but no way in heck would I ever do anything like that with any of my cars, as well-prepped as yours or not. Is that fresh or salt water?